Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Sprite jobs update

From: Rick Fisk via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2024 19:17:18 -0400

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Daniel,

Sounds like you've got everything under control.  I for one miss the chatter=
 we used to have on this list and appreciate you posting an account of your a=
ctivities.  Post some photos of your work since Mark has given us the abilit=
y to include photos. =20

When you replace the wishbones and pans you might want to consider a set of C=
lancy Schmidt's adjustable camber wishbones.  You can easily adjust camber b=
y adding or subtracting shims from the kingpin fulcrum mounting plate.=20

Rick

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> On May 18, 2024, at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets <spridgets@=
autox.team.net> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> Hi List,
>=20
> In the past a lister would occasionally post a project update for the othe=
r listers and since my wife has no interest in what I'm doing to my Sprite I=
 thought I'd post an update here!
>=20
> The engine is out of my Sprite at the moment and simply wire wheeling some=
 rust and flaky paint off for a tidy up and brush painting in the engine bay=
 has escalated into a series of other small jobs.
>=20
> My car has the Frontline front top link etc conversion which bolts to the c=
ar using the three original captive nuts + a nut and bolt that you drill a h=
ole for.  Well, now I have a small welder I've decided to fit a captive nut t=
o replace the 'loose' nut.  I thought about cleaning the zinc coating off a n=
ut for welding it but in the end decided to buy some hexagon bar and drill a=
nd tap it to make a nut that I can weld on that will actually looking simila=
r to the originals.  I bought the bar twice because I failed to correctly un=
derstand how bar was measured and the first section was smaller than I inten=
ded.  The tap and drill for this arrived today and just as well I already ha=
d a UNF tap because what arrived was UNC tap.  I wish I'd just bought the dr=
ill now.  With my newish floor standing pillar drill and vice that I can, an=
d did, clamp onto the drill table I thought drilling would be a cinch and an=
d it was but not very accurate.  So, I have one piece drilled and tapped ins=
tead of two.  I guess I need to put the bar in my vice and get it accurately=
 vertical by using a spirit level on it before I clamp everything down.  I h=
ave already worked out that I need to allow enough room to change drill bits=
 (working up from something small) without disturbing anything.
>=20
> I have had a copper hard fuel line in the car that I fitted possibly 30 ye=
ars ago, maybe 35 years ago.  There was nothing wrong with it except when I d=
rilled a hole for a clip to secure the pipe on that original installation, I=
 chewed the pipe with the drill chuck. To get around a possible leak (the pi=
pe was deeply cut but not all the way through, I slid a short length of hose=
 over it and secured it with a couple of jubilee clips. Well it always bugge=
d me to look at it and I have now replaced the whole front to back copper pi=
pe with Kunifer pipe.  On my car I have something I don't think I've ever se=
en on anyone elses, including hundreds of racing cars of all types, and that=
's a hard line connecting with a threaded fitting to a threaded fitting on b=
raided s/s hose.  It needs a special nut (forget the proper name) an Olive a=
nd then a flare on the pipe end.  I've done one end and it's ok (but not yet=
 tested under pressure).  Kunifer pipe doesn't bend as easily as copper and w=
hile I've managed just about, I've bought a small pipe bender for the pipe a=
t the rear. I need to finish the rear of the job but want to leave the car j=
acked up at the front for other stuff before working on the rear.
>=20
> While fitting the new fuel hardline in the trans tunnel and using new clip=
s I decided to remove the bracket that supports the gearbox - my Sprite has t=
he Ford based 5-speed conversion.  I removed the bracket because I wanted to=
 cut the 90-degree ends to become 45 degree ends not so much for the (23 gra=
mmes) weight saving but so it looked neater and was less likely for me to ba=
ng my head, hand, or whatever on whenever I am working under the car.  I the=
n replaced bolts (black oxide in UNC) with UNF ARP s/s with the small wrench=
ing head (that I love!) and Nylock nuts rather than the plain ones that were=
 on before.  Then I took it back off (!) to move the brake line that was eit=
her moved for the conversion, or when I (not that long ago- last year?) repl=
aced the copper brake line with Kunifer.  The brake line is neater now and I=
 also moved a clip to make sure it was clamped adequately in its new place.
>=20
> So hours and hours of work for a few simple tidying up jobs while the engi=
ne is out and my only regret is not sharing some of the other stuff I've als=
o done while the engine it out.
>=20
> When I weld the new captive nuts on for the Frontline top link I'll also b=
e wire wheeling and painting everything that needs it and replacing the wish=
bones and pans with brand new ones.
>=20
> Regards
>=20
>=20
> Daniel
> ------------------------
>=20
> [email-masked]
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk=
@chartermi.net

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[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive

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From: Weslake1330 via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2024 09:42:01 +0100

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Hi Rick,

The WIshbone looks interesting.  I have negative camber trunnions but my
long term plan is to have a Frontline top link modified by a professional
welder (rather than me) that will create enough negative camber that I can
make the swap back to standard trunnions (that weigh less).

Some low resolution photos attached.

Regards

Daniel

On Sun, 19 May 2024 at 00:17, Rick Fisk <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Daniel,
>
> Sounds like you've got everything under control.  I for one miss the
> chatter we used to have on this list and appreciate you posting an accoun=
t
> of your activities.  Post some photos of your work since Mark has given u=
s
> the ability to include photos.
>
> When you replace the wishbones and pans you might want to consider a set
> of Clancy Schmidt's adjustable camber wishbones.  You can easily adjust
> camber by adding or subtracting shims from the kingpin fulcrum mounting
> plate.
>
> Rick
>
>
>
> > On May 18, 2024, at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets <
> [email-masked]> wrote:
> >
> > =EF=BB=BF
> > Hi List,
> >
> > In the past a lister would occasionally post a project update for the
> other listers and since my wife has no interest in what I'm doing to my
> Sprite I thought I'd post an update here!
> >
> > The engine is out of my Sprite at the moment and simply wire wheeling
> some rust and flaky paint off for a tidy up and brush painting in the
> engine bay has escalated into a series of other small jobs.
> >
> > My car has the Frontline front top link etc conversion which bolts to
> the car using the three original captive nuts + a nut and bolt that you
> drill a hole for.  Well, now I have a small welder I've decided to fit a
> captive nut to replace the 'loose' nut.  I thought about cleaning the zin=
c
> coating off a nut for welding it but in the end decided to buy some hexag=
on
> bar and drill and tap it to make a nut that I can weld on that will
> actually looking similar to the originals.  I bought the bar twice becaus=
e
> I failed to correctly understand how bar was measured and the first secti=
on
> was smaller than I intended.  The tap and drill for this arrived today an=
d
> just as well I already had a UNF tap because what arrived was UNC tap.  I
> wish I'd just bought the drill now.  With my newish floor standing pillar
> drill and vice that I can, and did, clamp onto the drill table I thought
> drilling would be a cinch and and it was but not very accurate.  So, I ha=
ve
> one piece drilled and tapped instead of two.  I guess I need to put the b=
ar
> in my vice and get it accurately vertical by using a spirit level on it
> before I clamp everything down.  I have already worked out that I need to
> allow enough room to change drill bits (working up from something small)
> without disturbing anything.
> >
> > I have had a copper hard fuel line in the car that I fitted possibly 30
> years ago, maybe 35 years ago.  There was nothing wrong with it except wh=
en
> I drilled a hole for a clip to secure the pipe on that original
> installation, I chewed the pipe with the drill chuck. To get around a
> possible leak (the pipe was deeply cut but not all the way through, I sli=
d
> a short length of hose over it and secured it with a couple of jubilee
> clips. Well it always bugged me to look at it and I have now replaced the
> whole front to back copper pipe with Kunifer pipe.  On my car I have
> something I don't think I've ever seen on anyone elses, including hundred=
s
> of racing cars of all types, and that's a hard line connecting with a
> threaded fitting to a threaded fitting on braided s/s hose.  It needs a
> special nut (forget the proper name) an Olive and then a flare on the pip=
e
> end.  I've done one end and it's ok (but not yet tested under pressure).
> Kunifer pipe doesn't bend as easily as copper and while I've managed just
> about, I've bought a small pipe bender for the pipe at the rear. I need t=
o
> finish the rear of the job but want to leave the car jacked up at the fro=
nt
> for other stuff before working on the rear.
> >
> > While fitting the new fuel hardline in the trans tunnel and using new
> clips I decided to remove the bracket that supports the gearbox - my Spri=
te
> has the Ford based 5-speed conversion.  I removed the bracket because I
> wanted to cut the 90-degree ends to become 45 degree ends not so much for
> the (23 grammes) weight saving but so it looked neater and was less likel=
y
> for me to bang my head, hand, or whatever on whenever I am working under
> the car.  I then replaced bolts (black oxide in UNC) with UNF ARP s/s wit=
h
> the small wrenching head (that I love!) and Nylock nuts rather than the
> plain ones that were on before.  Then I took it back off (!) to move the
> brake line that was either moved for the conversion, or when I (not that
> long ago- last year?) replaced the copper brake line with Kunifer.  The
> brake line is neater now and I also moved a clip to make sure it was
> clamped adequately in its new place.
> >
> > So hours and hours of work for a few simple tidying up jobs while the
> engine is out and my only regret is not sharing some of the other stuff
> I've also done while the engine it out.
> >
> > When I weld the new captive nuts on for the Frontline top link I'll als=
o
> be wire wheeling and painting everything that needs it and replacing the
> wishbones and pans with brand new ones.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> >
> > Daniel
> > ------------------------
> >
> > [email-masked]
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Rick,<div><br></div><div>The WIshbone looks interesting=
.=C2=A0 I have negative camber trunnions but my long term plan is to have a=
 Frontline top link modified by a professional welder (rather than me) that=
 will create enough negative camber that I can make the swap back to standa=
rd trunnions (that weigh less).</div><div><br></div><div>Some low resolutio=
n photos attached.</div><div><br></div><div>Regards</div><div><br></div><di=
v><br></div><div>Daniel</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=
=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, 19 May 2024 at 00:17, Rick Fisk &lt;<=
a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<=
br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8e=
x;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Daniel,<br>
<br>
Sounds like you&#39;ve got everything under control.=C2=A0 I for one miss t=
he chatter we used to have on this list and appreciate you posting an accou=
nt of your activities.=C2=A0 Post some photos of your work since Mark has g=
iven us the ability to include photos.=C2=A0 <br>
<br>
When you replace the wishbones and pans you might want to consider a set of=
 Clancy Schmidt&#39;s adjustable camber wishbones.=C2=A0 You can easily adj=
ust camber by adding or subtracting shims from the kingpin fulcrum mounting=
 plate. <br>
<br>
Rick<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
&gt; On May 18, 2024, at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">spridgets@autox.=
team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; =EF=BB=BF<br>
&gt; Hi List,<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; In the past a lister would occasionally post a project update for the =
other listers and since my wife has no interest in what I&#39;m doing to my=
 Sprite I thought I&#39;d post an update here!<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; The engine is out of my Sprite at the moment and simply wire wheeling =
some rust and flaky paint off for a tidy up and brush painting in the engin=
e bay has escalated into a series of other small jobs.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; My car has the Frontline front top link etc conversion which bolts to =
the car using the three original captive nuts + a nut and bolt that you dri=
ll a hole for.=C2=A0 Well, now I have a small welder I&#39;ve decided to fi=
t a captive nut to replace the &#39;loose&#39; nut.=C2=A0 I thought about c=
leaning the zinc coating off a nut for welding it but in the end decided to=
 buy some hexagon bar and drill and tap it to make a nut that I can weld on=
 that will actually looking similar to the originals.=C2=A0 I bought the ba=
r twice because I failed to correctly understand how bar was measured and t=
he first section was smaller than I intended.=C2=A0 The tap and drill for t=
his arrived today and just as well I already had a UNF tap because what arr=
ived was UNC tap.=C2=A0 I wish I&#39;d just bought the drill now.=C2=A0 Wit=
h my newish floor standing pillar drill and vice that I can, and did, clamp=
 onto the drill table I thought drilling would be a cinch and and it was bu=
t not very accurate.=C2=A0 So, I have one piece drilled and tapped instead =
of two.=C2=A0 I guess I need to put the bar in my vice and get it accuratel=
y vertical by using a spirit level on it before I clamp everything down.=C2=
=A0 I have already worked out that I need to allow enough room to change dr=
ill bits (working up from something small) without disturbing anything.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I have had a copper hard fuel line in the car that I fitted possibly 3=
0 years ago, maybe 35 years ago.=C2=A0 There was nothing wrong with it exce=
pt when I drilled a hole for a clip to secure the pipe on that original ins=
tallation, I chewed the pipe with the drill chuck. To get around a possible=
 leak (the pipe was deeply cut but not all the way through, I slid a short =
length of hose over it and secured it with a couple of jubilee clips. Well =
it always bugged me to look at it and I have now replaced the whole front t=
o back copper pipe with Kunifer pipe.=C2=A0 On my car I have something I do=
n&#39;t think I&#39;ve ever seen on anyone elses, including hundreds of rac=
ing cars of all types, and that&#39;s a hard line connecting with a threade=
d fitting to a threaded fitting on braided s/s hose.=C2=A0 It needs a speci=
al nut (forget the proper name) an Olive and then a flare on the pipe end.=
=C2=A0 I&#39;ve done one end and it&#39;s ok (but not yet tested under pres=
sure).=C2=A0 Kunifer pipe doesn&#39;t bend as easily as copper and while I&=
#39;ve managed just about, I&#39;ve bought a small pipe bender for the pipe=
 at the rear. I need to finish the rear of the job but want to leave the ca=
r jacked up at the front for other stuff before working on the rear.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; While fitting the new fuel hardline in the trans tunnel and using new =
clips I decided to remove the bracket that supports the gearbox - my Sprite=
 has the Ford based 5-speed conversion.=C2=A0 I removed the bracket because=
 I wanted to cut the 90-degree ends to become 45 degree ends not so much fo=
r the (23 grammes) weight saving but so it looked neater and was less likel=
y for me to bang my head, hand, or whatever on whenever I am working under =
the car.=C2=A0 I then replaced bolts (black oxide in UNC) with UNF ARP s/s =
with the small wrenching head (that I love!) and Nylock nuts rather than th=
e plain ones that were on before.=C2=A0 Then I took it back off (!) to move=
 the brake line that was either moved for the conversion, or when I (not th=
at long ago- last year?) replaced the copper brake line with Kunifer.=C2=A0=
 The brake line is neater now and I also moved a clip to make sure it was c=
lamped adequately in its new place.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; So hours and hours of work for a few simple tidying up jobs while the =
engine is out and my only regret is not sharing some of the other stuff I&#=
39;ve also done while the engine it out.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; When I weld the new captive nuts on for the Frontline top link I&#39;l=
l also be wire wheeling and painting everything that needs it and replacing=
 the wishbones and pans with brand new ones.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Regards<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Daniel<br>
&gt; ------------------------<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">spridget=
[email-masked]</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer"=
 target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
&gt; Suggested annual donation: $12.75<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets" rel=3D"no=
referrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets</a>=C2=
=A0 <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"=
_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/s=
pridgets/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://=
autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]</a><br>
</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

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