Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Won't Idle Down

From: Rick Fisk via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2022 07:30:57 -0500

Hi Bert,

Have you synchronized the carbs?  If there are no vacuum leaks it sounds like one throttle plate is open.  What needles are you running?  A leaky side plate won't make any difference to the idle speed.

Rick

> On Nov 6, 2022, at 11:50 PM, Bert Shirey via Spridgets <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> 
> Guys and Gals: Last month I passed down my 1966 MKII 1098 MIdget to a friend. I had the car 57 years from new, but I can no longer take care of it as it needs 'and it was time to let it  go to a good home
>         . Some time ago I replaced the carbs with new SU H2s. Ever since, the idle will not come down. It holds about 1500 RPM normal and higher on fast. Because of back issues, I was never able to properly sort out the trouble. The screws are out to the point of being loose. Before I installed the new carbs I went over the whole car, timing, ignition, plugs, valve adjustment. 
>       The car has about 55000 miles and is in mechanically good shape, since I babied it. My friend is not yet a list member, and I still feel some responsibility to help him getting the Midge running properly.He says he checked for vacuum leaks in the usual manner, to no avail. There is a slight oil leak from one of the tappet side covers that I suppose could draw air into the breather, maybe unlikely.
>           Any ideas would be appreciated. Cheers, Bert Shirey.
> ------------------------
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From: Ron Corry via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2022 14:26:05 +0000

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Hi Bert,

     Three things to check in my opinion:-

1.) Is there any slack in the cable going to the carbs and are the ferrule
ends seated correctly (too much slack is not good either). Maybe undo the
cable clamp to the lever on the carbs; start her up and see if the idle is
as you have now. If the idle is now good, check out #2 below as well.

2.)  Check carefully in the driver's footwell that there is nothing
obstructing the correct operation of the pedal and it's cross arm. (My
carpet moved up and blocked the proper return of the cable / acclr. arm.
Being stuck in traffic at 2500 revs is not funny!).

3.) Have you changed the (routing of the) acclr. cable? I did, and when I
closed the bonnet, it squezed on the cable, and sent the revs up.

Hope these thoughts may work for you. Do share with the group the solution
to this issue.

Kind regards,

Ron.

On Mon 7 Nov 2022, 04:46 Bert Shirey via Spridgets, <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> Guys and Gals: Last month I passed down my 1966 MKII 1098 MIdget to a
> friend. I had the car 57 years from new, but I can no longer take care of
> it as it needs 'and it was time to let it  go to a good home
>         . Some time ago I replaced the carbs with new SU H2s. Ever since,
> the idle will not come down. It holds about 1500 RPM normal and higher on
> fast. Because of back issues, I was never able to properly sort out the
> trouble. The screws are out to the point of being loose. Before I installed
> the new carbs I went over the whole car, timing, ignition, plugs, valve
> adjustment.
>       The car has about 55000 miles and is in mechanically good shape,
> since I babied it. My friend is not yet a list member, and I still feel
> some responsibility to help him getting the Midge running properly.He says
> he checked for vacuum leaks in the usual manner, to no avail. There is a
> slight oil leak from one of the tappet side covers that I suppose could
> draw air into the breather, maybe unlikely.
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"auto">Hi Bert,<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Three things to check in my opinion:-</div><div dir=3D"aut=
o"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">1.) Is there any slack in the cable going to=
 the carbs and are the ferrule ends seated correctly (too much slack is not=
 good either). Maybe undo the cable clamp to the lever on the carbs; start =
her up and see if the idle is as you have now. If the idle is now good, che=
ck out #2 below as well.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>2.)=C2=A0 Check carefully in the driver&#39;s footwell that there is nothi=
ng obstructing the correct operation of the pedal and it&#39;s cross arm. (=
My carpet moved up and blocked the proper return of the cable / acclr. arm.=
 Being stuck in traffic at 2500 revs is not funny!).</div><div dir=3D"auto"=
><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">3.) Have you changed the (routing of the) accl=
r. cable? I did, and when I closed the bonnet, it squezed on the cable, and=
 sent the revs up.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Hope =
these thoughts may work for you. Do share with the group the solution to th=
is issue.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Kind regards,<=
/div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Ron.</div></div><br><div=
 class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon 7 Nov 2=
022, 04:46 Bert Shirey via Spridgets, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox=
.team.net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote cla=
ss=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;pa=
dding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">Guys and Gals: Last month I passed down my=
 1966 MKII 1098 MIdget to a friend. I had the car 57 years from new, but I =
can no longer take care of it as it needs &#39;and it was time to let=C2=A0=
it=C2=A0 go to=C2=A0a=C2=A0good=C2=A0home<div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 .=
 Some time ago I replaced the carbs with new SU H2s. Ever since, the idle w=
ill not come down. It holds about 1500 RPM normal and higher on fast. Becau=
se of back issues, I was never able to properly sort out the trouble. The s=
crews are out to the point of being loose. Before I installed the new carbs=
 I went over the whole car, timing, ignition, plugs, valve adjustment.=C2=
=A0</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 The car has about 55000 miles and is in =
mechanically=C2=A0good shape, since I babied it. My friend is not yet a lis=
t member, and I still feel some responsibility to help him getting the Midg=
e running properly.He says he checked for vacuum=C2=A0leaks in the usual ma=
nner, to no avail. There is a slight oil leak from one of the tappet side c=
overs that I suppose could draw air into the breather, maybe unlikely.</div=
><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Any ideas would be appreciated. Ch=
eers, Bert Shirey.</div></div>
------------------------<br>
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From: CosmicMag1380 via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2022 15:30:43 -0500

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Also check the ferule ends for wear. Sometimes the brass wears and causes
the inner cable to snag.

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 10:35 AM Ron Corry via Spridgets <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"auto">Also check the ferule ends for wear. Sometimes the brass =
wears and causes the inner cable to snag.</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quot=
e"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 10:35 AM Ron =
Corry via Spridgets &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">spridge=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote"=
 style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><d=
iv dir=3D"auto">Hi Bert,<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Three things to check in my opinion:-</div><div dir=3D"aut=
o"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">1.) Is there any slack in the cable going to=
 the carbs and are the ferrule ends seated correctly (too much slack is not=
 good either). Maybe undo the cable clamp to the lever on the carbs; start =
her up and see if the idle is as you have now. If the idle is now good, che=
ck out #2 below as well.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"=
.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a=
>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0=
 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">Guys =
and Gals: Last month I passed down my 1966 MKII 1098 MIdget to a friend. I =
had the car 57 years from new, but I can no longer take care of it as it ne=
eds &#39;and it was time to let=C2=A0it=C2=A0 go to=C2=A0a=C2=A0good=C2=A0h=
ome<div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 . Some time ago I replaced the carbs wi=
th new SU H2s. Ever since, the idle will not come down. It holds about 1500=
 RPM normal and higher on fast. Because of back issues, I was never able to=
 properly sort out the trouble. The screws are out to the point of being lo=
ose. Before I installed the new carbs I went over the whole car, timing, ig=
nition, plugs, valve adjustment.=C2=A0</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 The c=
ar has about 55000 miles and is in mechanically=C2=A0good shape, since I ba=
bied it. My friend is not yet a list member, and I still feel some responsi=
bility to help him getting the Midge running properly.He says he checked fo=
r vacuum=C2=A0leaks in the usual manner, to no avail. There is a slight oil=
 leak from one of the tappet side covers that I suppose could draw air into=
 the breather, maybe unlikely.</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=
 Any ideas would be appreciated. Cheers, Bert Shirey.</div></div>
------------------------<br>
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arget=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>
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gmail.com</a><br>
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From: Billy Zoom via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2022 09:18:22 -0800

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<html><head></head><body dir=3D"auto" style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;"><div =
dir=3D"auto" style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; =
line-break: after-white-space;"><div class=3D"ApplePlainTextBody">Is the =
choke &amp; fast idle linkage adjusted properly? Do the jets move up =
&amp; down? &nbsp;<br>Do you have the jets .058=E2=80=9D below the deck. =
</div></div></body></html>=

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