Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Oil Change

From: Ron Soave via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2022 10:08:51 -0500

Wow. Tons of voice recognition typo oddities. Sorry about that! Bottom line, stock pushrods good, stainless ones with stock diameter ok, no need for Isky tubular in my world. 

Ron Soave

> On Jul 30, 2022, at 10:06 AM, Ron Soave <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Couple of things - until recently I used stock pushrods exclusively. You need that drain back. Also, my engines rev. A lot. I consider 7000 rpm short shifting  If you miss a shift or anything else goes wrong, the soft pushrods are an excellent mechanical fuse. The bend rather than valves and subsequently pistons survive. I rececentky have tried MED’s stock diameter pushrods, but made of harder stainless. That makes maximum horsepower at 8200 RPM  And I was told you had a great reputation but I’ve come to realize it’s really a fraud that the stock pushrods for flex like rubber bands at that RPM. That’s absolutely not true. Inspection showed zero distortion. The stainless ones are fine but much less bargain as a fuse. There is no need for the larger diameter pushrods. Your mileage may vary - this is just my experience on some stinky fast race motors. 
> 
> Ron Soave
> 
>> On Jul 30, 2022, at 12:55 AM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets <[email-masked]> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Mike,
>> 
>> Based on my experience this is completely normal, especially with larger than stock push rods.  I pour a quart of oil in and wait five miutes or so before adding the next quart.  Works the same for my 948 and 1275 engines.
>> 
>> Rick
>> 
>> PS - I'm enjoying the sunshine in Hesperia for the next few days.  Hot up here!!!  :-)
>> 
>>>> On Jul 30, 2022, at 12:04 AM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <[email-masked]> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Did an oil and filter change for my Bugeye today.  One thing that has always bothered me since I built this 1275 was how slow the oil was to go down through the head to the pan. I have a raised valve cover for room for the 1.5 rockers.  I can pour two quarts of oil in the filler neck and then I have to wait for it to go down.  It fills up the entire valve cover and takes several minutes before I can pour the 3rd quart in.  When I built the motor I used hollow pushrods of a larger diameter than the standard type, but I had the through holes in the head for the pushrods enlarged as required for these pushrods.  Maybe the holes are not big enough in diameter.  Would this be a problem in normal operation of returning the oil to the pan while running?  I have put 3000 miles plus on this engine since the rebuild and it is still running great, but the oil pressure reads 90 psi on start up and goes down just below 80 psi when warm at speed.  For some reason the engine runs fine and puts out plenty of power.  It's just every time I do an oil change the slow drain into the engine makes me wonder.
>>> Mike MacLean
>>> ------------------------
>>> 
>> 
>> ------------------------
>> 
>> [email-masked]
>> 
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From: Weslake1330 via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2022 21:25:20 +0100

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I used to run stock push rods on my road going Sprite but switched to
whatever APT sell (and previously sold).  The reason I made the switch was
that short of routinely pulling the rockers to pull the push rods I had no
way of checking them for straightness.  How did a road engine (Kent 286 cam
at that time followed by the APT scatter of about the same lift and timing)
bend standard push rods?  Well lots of sustained road-going 7500 rpm
(Sprite had a low diff for a long time) or that accidental blip to 8200 rpm
(Could barely believe the tacho tell-tale).  The current engine has a close
ratio 5-speed and correct diff and tyre size to just about stay on the
maximum power band 6 through to 6.5 and 120+ mph (Cda on request!) not to
need push rod bending rpm.  BUT are the stock push rods of today as good as
the stock push rods of yesterday?

As far as oil drain down goes, with a fairly basic baffled sump the only
time I've seen oil surge to be an issue was coming to an absolute stop for
a roundabout from anything over 70 mph from memory WHEN I had something
like a 10-40 oil instead of 0-50, 15-50 etc.  The 40 grade seemed thin
enough to work fine except for the occasional hard stop when the oil
pressure gauge would take that alarming fast swing downwards.

Regards

Daniel

On Sat, 30 Jul 2022 at 17:38, Ron Soave via Spridgets <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> Wow. Tons of voice recognition typo oddities. Sorry about that! Bottom
> line, stock pushrods good, stainless ones with stock diameter ok, no need
> for Isky tubular in my world.
>
> Ron Soave
>
> > =EF=BB=BFCouple of things - until recently I used stock pushrods exclus=
ively.
> You need that drain back. Also, my engines rev. A lot. I consider 7000 rp=
m
> short shifting  If you miss a shift or anything else goes wrong, the soft
> pushrods are an excellent mechanical fuse. The bend rather than valves an=
d
> subsequently pistons survive. I rececentky have tried MED=E2=80=99s stock=
 diameter
> pushrods, but made of harder stainless. That makes maximum horsepower at
> 8200 RPM  And I was told you had a great reputation but I=E2=80=99ve come=
 to
> realize it=E2=80=99s really a fraud that the stock pushrods for flex like=
 rubber
> bands at that RPM. That=E2=80=99s absolutely not true. Inspection showed =
zero
> distortion. The stainless ones are fine but much less bargain as a fuse.
> There is no need for the larger diameter pushrods. Your mileage may vary =
-
> this is just my experience on some stinky fast race motors.
> >
> > Ron Soave
> >
> >> =EF=BB=BFHi Mike,
> >> Based on my experience this is completely normal, especially with
> larger than stock push rods.  I pour a quart of oil in and wait five miut=
es
> or so before adding the next quart.  Works the same for my 948 and 1275
> engines.
> >>
> >> Rick
> >>
> >>> =EF=BB=BF
> >>> Did an oil and filter change for my Bugeye today.  One thing that has
> always bothered me since I built this 1275 was how slow the oil was to go
> down through the head to the pan. I have a raised valve cover for room fo=
r
> the 1.5 rockers.  I can pour two quarts of oil in the filler neck and the=
n
> I have to wait for it to go down.  It fills up the entire valve cover and
> takes several minutes before I can pour the 3rd quart in.  When I built t=
he
> motor I used hollow pushrods of a larger diameter than the standard type,
> but I had the through holes in the head for the pushrods enlarged as
> required for these pushrods.  Maybe the holes are not big enough in
> diameter.  Would this be a problem in normal operation of returning the o=
il
> to the pan while running?  I have put 3000 miles plus on this engine sinc=
e
> the rebuild and it is still running great, but the oil pressure reads 90
> psi on start up and goes down just below 80 psi when warm at speed.  For
> some reason the engine runs fine and puts out plenty of power.  It's just
> every time I do an oil change the slow drain into the engine makes me
> wonder.
> >>> Mike MacLean
> >>> ------------------------
> >>>
> >>
> >> ------------------------
> >>
> >> [email-masked]
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>
> ------------------------
>
> [email-masked]
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">I used to run stock push rods on my road going Sprite but =
switched to whatever APT sell (and previously sold).=C2=A0 The reason I mad=
e the switch was that short of routinely pulling the rockers to pull the pu=
sh rods I had no way of checking them for straightness.=C2=A0 How did a roa=
d engine (Kent 286 cam at that time followed by the APT scatter of about th=
e same lift and timing) bend standard push rods?=C2=A0 Well lots of sustain=
ed road-going 7500 rpm (Sprite had a low diff for a long time) or that acci=
dental blip to 8200 rpm (Could barely believe the tacho tell-tale).=C2=A0 T=
he current engine has a close ratio 5-speed and correct diff and tyre size =
to just about stay on the maximum power band 6 through to 6.5 and 120+ mph =
(Cda on request!) not to need push rod bending rpm.=C2=A0 BUT are the stock=
 push rods of today as good as the stock push rods of yesterday?<div><br></=
div><div>As far as oil drain down goes, with a fairly basic baffled sump th=
e only time I&#39;ve seen oil surge to be an issue was coming to an absolut=
e stop for a roundabout from anything over 70 mph from memory WHEN I had so=
mething like a 10-40 oil instead of 0-50, 15-50 etc.=C2=A0 The 40 grade see=
med thin enough to work fine except for the occasional hard stop when the o=
il pressure gauge would take that alarming fast swing downwards.</div><div>=
<br></div><div>Regards</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Daniel</div>=
</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">=
On Sat, 30 Jul 2022 at 17:38, Ron Soave via Spridgets &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div=
><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border=
-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Wow. Tons of voice recog=
nition typo oddities. Sorry about that! Bottom line, stock pushrods good, s=
tainless ones with stock diameter ok, no need for Isky tubular in my world.=
 <br>
<br>
Ron Soave<br>
<br>
&gt; On Jul 30, 2022, at 10:06 AM, Ron Soave &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:soavero@=
yahoo.com" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; =EF=BB=BFCouple of things - until recently I used stock pushrods exclu=
sively. You need that drain back. Also, my engines rev. A lot. I consider 7=
000 rpm short shifting=C2=A0 If you miss a shift or anything else goes wron=
g, the soft pushrods are an excellent mechanical fuse. The bend rather than=
 valves and subsequently pistons survive. I rececentky have tried MED=E2=80=
=99s stock diameter pushrods, but made of harder stainless. That makes maxi=
mum horsepower at 8200 RPM=C2=A0 And I was told you had a great reputation =
but I=E2=80=99ve come to realize it=E2=80=99s really a fraud that the stock=
 pushrods for flex like rubber bands at that RPM. That=E2=80=99s absolutely=
 not true. Inspection showed zero distortion. The stainless ones are fine b=
ut much less bargain as a fuse. There is no need for the larger diameter pu=
shrods. Your mileage may vary - this is just my experience on some stinky f=
ast race motors. <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Ron Soave<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt;&gt; On Jul 30, 2022, at 12:55 AM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt;&gt; <br>
&gt;&gt; =EF=BB=BFHi Mike,<br>
&gt;&gt; <br>
&gt;&gt; Based on my experience this is completely normal, especially with =
larger than stock push rods.=C2=A0 I pour a quart of oil in and wait five m=
iutes or so before adding the next quart.=C2=A0 Works the same for my 948 a=
nd 1275 engines.<br>
&gt;&gt; <br>
&gt;&gt; Rick<br>
&gt;&gt; <br>
&gt;&gt; PS - I&#39;m enjoying the sunshine in Hesperia for the next few da=
ys.=C2=A0 Hot up here!!!=C2=A0 :-)<br>
&gt;&gt; <br>
&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; On Jul 30, 2022, at 12:04 AM, Michael MacLean via Spridget=
s &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">spridge=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt;&gt;&gt; <br>
&gt;&gt;&gt; =EF=BB=BF<br>
&gt;&gt;&gt; Did an oil and filter change for my Bugeye today.=C2=A0 One th=
ing that has always bothered me since I built this 1275 was how slow the oi=
l was to go down through the head to the pan. I have a raised valve cover f=
or room for the 1.5 rockers.=C2=A0 I can pour two quarts of oil in the fill=
er neck and then I have to wait for it to go down.=C2=A0 It fills up the en=
tire valve cover and takes several minutes before I can pour the 3rd quart =
in.=C2=A0 When I built the motor I used hollow pushrods of a larger diamete=
r than the standard type, but I had the through holes in the head for the p=
ushrods enlarged as required for these pushrods.=C2=A0 Maybe the holes are =
not big enough in diameter.=C2=A0 Would this be a problem in normal operati=
on of returning the oil to the pan while running?=C2=A0 I have put 3000 mil=
es plus on this engine since the rebuild and it is still running great, but=
 the oil pressure reads 90 psi on start up and goes down just below 80 psi =
when warm at speed.=C2=A0 For some reason the engine runs fine and puts out=
 plenty of power.=C2=A0 It&#39;s just every time I do an oil change the slo=
w drain into the engine makes me wonder.<br>
&gt;&gt;&gt; Mike MacLean<br>
&gt;&gt;&gt; ------------------------<br>
&gt;&gt;&gt; <br>
&gt;&gt; <br>
&gt;&gt; ------------------------<br>
&gt;&gt; <br>
&gt;&gt; <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">spri=
[email-masked]</a><br>
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&gt;&gt; Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"norefer=
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