Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Datsun 5 Speed Clutch

From: Rick Fisk via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2021 19:37:31 -0500

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Mike,

How much play do you have between the pedal and pushrods?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 8, 2021, at 7:27 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <spridgets@autox=
.team.net> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> We have decided that without pulling the engine and looking what's going o=
n in the bell housing, we're done with the clutch for now.  Another problem n=
ow is with the brake pedal.  The whole purpose of this was to switch to disc=
 brakes from the original drums.  I swapped the old master with a 7/8" bore t=
o a new AP Lockheed master with dual 3/4" bores as per disc brake 1098/1275 S=
pridgets up to 1967.  I used the old 7/8" brake pushrod that was 4 - 1/8" lo=
ng and cut it down to 3- 11/16" in length.  The clutch pushrod was already c=
ut down for the 3/4" sleeve in the original master to accommodate the Datsun=
 clutch.  After bleeding the brakes and clutch, the clutch is just as it was=
 with the old master cylinder, but the brake pedal goes half way to the floo=
r before becoming solid.  Brakes work OK, but the excessive travel in the pe=
dal is a mystery.  If there was air in the system, you could pump it up to h=
ave the pedal at the top, but pumping the brake pedal makes no difference.  N=
o air in the system, so what could it be?
> Mike M
>=20
>> On Wed, Dec 8, 2021, 10:16 AM Jeff Kelly <[email-masked]> wrote:
>> Michael et all,
>>=20
>> I have a Rivergate kit.  When I installed I used the modified Datsun=20
>> clutch disk , spridget 1275 flywheel and the billet slave cylinder they=20=

>> supplied.  I think it is a 7/8" slave. My master is a3/4" bore. Went to=20=

>> 3/4" when I converted to front disc brakes. The clutch system did not=20
>> work out too well.  I burned up 2 disks before I sent my flywheel to=20
>> Gerard and had it drilled for the Datsun clutch plate and disk.  Works=20=

>> better, but still needs some adjusting.  To completely disengage, my=20
>> pedal is all the way to the floor.  I wonder if a 7/8" master would work=20=

>> better.  Long range I plan to install seperate brake and clutch masters=20=

>> and us a 7/8" for the clutch.
>>=20
>> Jeff Kelly
>>=20
> ------------------------
>=20
> [email-masked]
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive
>=20
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@chartermi.net

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Mike,<div><br></div><div>How much play do y=
ou have between the pedal and pushrods?<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my=
 iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Dec 8, 2021, a=
t 7:27 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wr=
ote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=
=BB=BF<div dir=3D"auto">We have decided that without pulling the engine and l=
ooking what's going on in the bell housing, we're done with the clutch for n=
ow.&nbsp; Another problem now is with the brake pedal.&nbsp; The whole purpo=
se of this was to switch to disc brakes from the original drums.&nbsp; I swa=
pped the old master with a 7/8" bore to a new AP Lockheed master with dual 3=
/4" bores as per disc brake 1098/1275 Spridgets up to 1967.&nbsp; I used the=
 old 7/8" brake pushrod that was 4 - 1/8" long and cut it down to 3- 11/16" i=
n length.&nbsp; The clutch pushrod was already cut down for the 3/4" sleeve i=
n the original master to accommodate the Datsun clutch.&nbsp; After bleeding=
 the brakes and clutch, the clutch is just as it was with the old master cyl=
inder, but the brake pedal goes half way to the floor before becoming solid.=
&nbsp; Brakes work OK, but the excessive travel in the pedal is a mystery.&n=
bsp; If there was air in the system, you could pump it up to have the pedal a=
t the top, but pumping the brake pedal makes no difference.&nbsp; No air in t=
he system, so what could it be?<div dir=3D"auto">Mike M</div></div><br><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Dec 8, 20=
21, 10:16 AM Jeff Kelly &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">jeffsbu=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" sty=
le=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Michael=
 et all,<br>
<br>
I have a Rivergate kit.&nbsp; When I installed I used the modified Datsun <b=
r>
clutch disk , spridget 1275 flywheel and the billet slave cylinder they <br>=

supplied.&nbsp; I think it is a 7/8" slave. My master is a3/4" bore. Went to=
 <br>
3/4" when I converted to front disc brakes. The clutch system did not <br>
work out too well.&nbsp; I burned up 2 disks before I sent my flywheel to <b=
r>
Gerard and had it drilled for the Datsun clutch plate and disk.&nbsp; Works <=
br>
better, but still needs some adjusting.&nbsp; To completely disengage, my <b=
r>
pedal is all the way to the floor.&nbsp; I wonder if a 7/8" master would wor=
k <br>
better.&nbsp; Long range I plan to install seperate brake and clutch masters=
 <br>
and us a 7/8" for the clutch.<br>
<br>
Jeff Kelly<br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
<span>------------------------</span><br><span></span><br><span>spridgets@au=
tox.team.net</span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/do=
nate.html</span><br><span>Suggested annual donation: $12.75</span><br><span>=
</span><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets &nbsp;http=
://autox.team.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manag=
e: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]</spa=
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive

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---

From: Michael MacLean via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2021 17:27:09 -0800

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Adjusted.  Close, but not contacting the bolt stop.
Mike M

On Wed, Dec 8, 2021, 4:37 PM Rick Fisk <[email-masked]> wrote:

> On Dec 8, 2021, at 7:27 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <
> [email-masked]> wrote:
>
> =EF=BB=BF
> We have decided that without pulling the engine and looking what's going
> on in the bell housing, we're done with the clutch for now.  Another
> problem now is with the brake pedal.  The whole purpose of this was to
> switch to disc brakes from the original drums.  I swapped the old master
> with a 7/8" bore to a new AP Lockheed master with dual 3/4" bores as per
> disc brake 1098/1275 Spridgets up to 1967.  I used the old 7/8" brake
> pushrod that was 4 - 1/8" long and cut it down to 3- 11/16" in length.  T=
he
> clutch pushrod was already cut down for the 3/4" sleeve in the original
> master to accommodate the Datsun clutch.  After bleeding the brakes and
> clutch, the clutch is just as it was with the old master cylinder, but th=
e
> brake pedal goes half way to the floor before becoming solid.  Brakes wor=
k
> OK, but the excessive travel in the pedal is a mystery.  If there was air
> in the system, you could pump it up to have the pedal at the top, but
> pumping the brake pedal makes no difference.  No air in the system, so wh=
at
> could it be?
>> I have a Rivergate kit.  When I installed I used the modified Datsun
>> clutch disk , spridget 1275 flywheel and the billet slave cylinder they
>> supplied.  I think it is a 7/8" slave. My master is a3/4" bore. Went to
>> 3/4" when I converted to front disc brakes. The clutch system did not
>> work out too well.  I burned up 2 disks before I sent my flywheel to
>> Gerard and had it drilled for the Datsun clutch plate and disk.  Works
>> better, but still needs some adjusting.  To completely disengage, my
>> pedal is all the way to the floor.  I wonder if a 7/8" master would work
>> better.  Long range I plan to install seperate brake and clutch masters
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>
>

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<div dir=3D"auto">Adjusted.=C2=A0 Close, but not contacting the bolt stop.<=
div dir=3D"auto">Mike M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=
=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Dec 8, 2021, 4:37 PM Rick Fisk &lt;<a=
 href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<b=
r></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border=
-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Mike,<div><br></di=
v><div>How much play do you have between the pedal and pushrods?<br><br><di=
v dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote typ=
e=3D"cite">On Dec 8, 2021, at 7:27 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets &lt;<a=
 href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferr=
er">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><bloc=
kquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"auto">We have de=
cided that without pulling the engine and looking what&#39;s going on in th=
e bell housing, we&#39;re done with the clutch for now.=C2=A0 Another probl=
em now is with the brake pedal.=C2=A0 The whole purpose of this was to swit=
ch to disc brakes from the original drums.=C2=A0 I swapped the old master w=
ith a 7/8&quot; bore to a new AP Lockheed master with dual 3/4&quot; bores =
as per disc brake 1098/1275 Spridgets up to 1967.=C2=A0 I used the old 7/8&=
quot; brake pushrod that was 4 - 1/8&quot; long and cut it down to 3- 11/16=
&quot; in length.=C2=A0 The clutch pushrod was already cut down for the 3/4=
&quot; sleeve in the original master to accommodate the Datsun clutch.=C2=
=A0 After bleeding the brakes and clutch, the clutch is just as it was with=
 the old master cylinder, but the brake pedal goes half way to the floor be=
fore becoming solid.=C2=A0 Brakes work OK, but the excessive travel in the =
pedal is a mystery.=C2=A0 If there was air in the system, you could pump it=
 up to have the pedal at the top, but pumping the brake pedal makes no diff=
erence.=C2=A0 No air in the system, so what could it be?<div dir=3D"auto">M=
ike M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_attr">On Wed, Dec 8, 2021, 10:16 AM Jeff Kelly &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:j=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">jeffsbugeye@gmai=
l.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"ma=
rgin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Michael et all=
,<br>
<br>
I have a Rivergate kit.=C2=A0 When I installed I used the modified Datsun <=
br>
clutch disk , spridget 1275 flywheel and the billet slave cylinder they <br=
supplied.=C2=A0 I think it is a 7/8&quot; slave. My master is a3/4&quot; bo=
re. Went to <br>
3/4&quot; when I converted to front disc brakes. The clutch system did not =
<br>
work out too well.=C2=A0 I burned up 2 disks before I sent my flywheel to <=
br>
Gerard and had it drilled for the Datsun clutch plate and disk.=C2=A0 Works=
 <br>
better, but still needs some adjusting.=C2=A0 To completely disengage, my <=
br>
pedal is all the way to the floor.=C2=A0 I wonder if a 7/8&quot; master wou=
ld work <br>
better.=C2=A0 Long range I plan to install seperate brake and clutch master=
s <br>
and us a 7/8&quot; for the clutch.<br>
<br>
Jeff Kelly<br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
<span>------------------------</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href=3D"=
mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">sprid=
[email-masked]</a></span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: <a href=3D=
"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http=
://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation: =
$12.75</span><br><span></span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team=
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ive" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://aut=
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[email-masked]</a></span><br></div></blockquote></div></div></blockquote><=
/div>

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