Subject: [Spridgets] Rear main seal

From: David Doiron via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2021 07:40:49 -0700 (MST)

Anyone have experience with the various rear main seals?

W David Doiron
------------------------

[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive

---

From: Rick Fisk via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2021 13:40:28 -0500

That's what the factory PCV systems does.  The last version used from about '70 to '74 works the best *without a PCV valve*.  It connects the oil separator canister on the timing chain cover to special ports on the SU's without a PCV valve and works very well as long as the engine is in good condition.  

> On Nov 26, 2021, at 12:51 PM, David Ambrose via Spridgets <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Has anyone ever tried actively pulling crankcase vacuum to prevent the leak?
> 
>> On 11/26/2021 7:34 AM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets wrote:
>> Hi David,
>> 
>> The kits from MED engineering in England work.  But they are quite pricey and require removal and machining of the rear main cap.  The kits from Gerard's Garage work well and are also pricey.  I ran one of his kits on one of my race engines and it worked well.  But Gerard quit making them a few years ago.  He came out of retirement a few weeks ago and said he was going to produce another batch, but I believe it's too late to get in on this run.  The other kit for sale out there and sold by Moss, Spridgetmania, etc. all come from the same supplier in England.  They slow the leak down, but don't really stop it.  I have one of those on another engine.
>> 
>> I also have a well built properly ventilated engine with the nothing but the factory eyebrow piece and it doesn't leak.  My last street Midget was a '72 with the factory PCV system functioning properly and it didn't leak.  :-)
>> 
>> Rick
>> 
>>>> On Nov 26, 2021, at 9:51 AM, David Doiron via Spridgets <[email-masked]> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>> ------------------------
>> 
>> [email-masked]
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
> ------------------------
> 
> [email-masked]
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]

------------------------

[email-masked]

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation: $12.75

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]

---

From: Gerard via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2021 11:54:17 -0800

--===============3068861480906234481==
	boundary=Apple-Mail-13BECA74-1A62-455A-85CC-B496D844F62B
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

--Apple-Mail-13BECA74-1A62-455A-85CC-B496D844F62B
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Thanks for the mention, Rick.

Due to some minimum quantity requirements, I have just a few of the 948/1098=
 and 1275 kits still available.=20

Provided there=E2=80=99s not so much wear on the main cap/half moon that the=
 tolerance is beyond the scroll function working correctly, setting up a Smi=
ths PCV will indeed help minimize, if not cure the leak while the engine is r=
unning. Otherwise, an align bore to restore air gap tolerance is the only re=
medy until it wears again.=20

The issue with the other kits commonly available is that the air gap, which s=
hould only be a couple thousandths, is increased to over 1/4=E2=80=9D (over t=
he diameter). In other words, the scroll function is completely discarded/no=
t functional. At some point, the lip seal becomes overwhelmed with oil and i=
nternal pressure pushes the oil out anyway. My design not only retains the s=
croll function but also restores the correct tolerance without machining. Th=
ere are several other superior design features that improves fit and functio=
n.

An extensive review, explanation of installation, and endorsement is availab=
le at the link below.

Anyone interested can send me an email for more information or interest in a=
cquiring one.

Gerard

https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mg-midget-forum.3/gerards-garage-a-series-rear-s=
eal-kit.2681890/#msg-2681890

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 26, 2021, at 11:00 AM, [email-masked] wrote:
>=20
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2021 10:34:17 -0500
> From: Rick Fisk <[email-masked]>
> To: David Doiron <[email-masked]>
> Cc: Spridgets <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Rear main seal
> Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Dutf-8
>=20
> Hi David,
>=20
> The kits from MED engineering in England work.  But they are quite pricey a=
nd require removal and machining of the rear main cap.  The kits from Gerard=
's Garage work well and are also pricey.  I ran one of his kits on one of my=
 race engines and it worked well.  But Gerard quit making them a few years a=
go.  He came out of retirement a few weeks ago and said he was going to prod=
uce another batch, but I believe it's too late to get in on this run.  The o=
ther kit for sale out there and sold by Moss, Spridgetmania, etc. all come f=
rom the same supplier in England.  They slow the leak down, but don't really=
 stop it.  I have one of those on another engine.
>=20
> I also have a well built properly ventilated engine with the nothing but t=
he factory eyebrow piece and it doesn't leak.  My last street Midget was a '=
72 with the factory PCV system functioning properly and it didn't leak.  :-)=

>=20

--Apple-Mail-13BECA74-1A62-455A-85CC-B496D844F62B
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Thanks for the mention, Rick.<div><br></div=
><div>Due to some minimum quantity requirements, I have just a few of the 94=
8/1098 and 1275 kits still available.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Provide=
d there=E2=80=99s not so much wear on the main cap/half moon that the tolera=
nce is beyond the scroll function working correctly, setting up a Smiths PCV=
 will indeed help minimize, if not cure the leak while the engine is running=
. Otherwise, an align bore to restore air gap tolerance is the only remedy u=
ntil it wears again.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>The issue with the other=
 kits commonly available is that the air gap, which should only be a couple t=
housandths, is increased to over 1/4=E2=80=9D (over the diameter). In other w=
ords, the scroll function is completely discarded/not functional. At some po=
int, the lip seal becomes overwhelmed with oil and internal pressure pushes t=
he oil out anyway. My design not only retains the scroll function but also r=
estores the correct tolerance without machining. There are several other sup=
erior design features that improves fit and function.</div><div><br></div><d=
iv>An extensive review, explanation of installation, and endorsement is avai=
lable at the link below.</div><div><br></div><div>Anyone interested can send=
 me an email for more information or interest in acquiring one.</div><div><b=
r></div><div>Gerard<br><br><a href=3D"https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mg-midget-=
forum.3/gerards-garage-a-series-rear-seal-kit.2681890/#msg-2681890">https://=
www.mgexp.com/forum/mg-midget-forum.3/gerards-garage-a-series-rear-seal-kit.=
2681890/#msg-2681890</a><br><br><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature" dir=3D"ltr">S=
ent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Nov 26, 2021, at 11:00 AM, <=
a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
eam.net</a> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><=
span>Message: 3</span><br><span>Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2021 10:34:17 -0500</span>=
<br><span>From: Rick Fisk &lt;<span><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">=
[email-masked]</a></span>&gt;</span><br><span>To: David Doiron &lt;<sp=
an><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></span>&gt;</span><=
br><span>Cc: Spridgets &lt;<span><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
>[email-masked]</a></span>&gt;</span><br><span>Subject: Re: [Sprid=
gets] Rear main seal</span><br><span>Message-ID: &lt;<span><a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]">F094FDBA-F911-45E7-896A=
[email-masked]</a></span>&gt;</span><br><span>Content-Type: tex=
t/plain; charset=3Dutf-8</span><br><span></span><br><span>Hi David,</span><b=
r><span></span><br><span>The kits from MED engineering in England work. &nbs=
p;But they are quite pricey and require removal and machining of the rear ma=
in cap. &nbsp;The kits from Gerard's Garage work well and are also pricey. &=
nbsp;I ran one of his kits on one of my race engines and it worked well. &nb=
sp;But Gerard quit making them a few years ago. &nbsp;He came out of retirem=
ent a few weeks ago and said he was going to produce another batch, but I be=
lieve it's too late to get in on this run. &nbsp;The other kit for sale out t=
here and sold by Moss, Spridgetmania, etc. all come from the same supplier i=
n England. &nbsp;They slow the leak down, but don't really stop it. &nbsp;I h=
ave one of those on another engine.</span><br><span></span><br><span>I also h=
ave a well built properly ventilated engine with the nothing but the factory=
 eyebrow piece and it doesn't leak. &nbsp;My last street Midget was a '72 wi=
th the factory PCV system functioning properly and it didn't leak. &nbsp;:-)=
</span><br><span></span><br><span>Rick</span></div></blockquote></div></body=
></html>=

--Apple-Mail-13BECA74-1A62-455A-85CC-B496D844F62B--

--===============3068861480906234481==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

------------------------

[email-masked]

--===============3068861480906234481==--