Subject: [Spridgets] SU Dashpot Oil wt

From: Michael MacLean via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2021 13:19:07 -0700

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 I watched a recent John Twist video today on fitting H type SU carbs to a
T type MG.  In the video he says to use 90 wt gear oil in the dashpot.  He
also said the lighter oils and ATF that so many people recommend contribute
to the early wear and tear on the carb.  Anyone else using this weight oil
in the carb?  All my life I have been putting 20 wt oil in the dashpot.
Mike MacLean

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<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"gmail-:1hh" class=3D"gmail-a3s gmail-aiL"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>=
I watched a recent=20
John Twist video today on fitting H type SU carbs to a T type MG.=C2=A0 In=
=20
the video he says to use 90 wt gear oil in the dashpot.=C2=A0 He also said=
=20
the lighter oils and ATF that so many people recommend contribute to the
 early wear and tear on the carb.=C2=A0 Anyone else using this weight oil i=
n=20
the carb?=C2=A0 All my life I have been putting 20 wt oil in the dashpot.</=
div><div>Mike MacLean</div></div></div>

</div>

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From: Mark Haynes via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2021 12:49:03 -0600

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When John was out here for MG 2009, he also stated that using the 90W
compensated for the wear in the interface between the damper and the inner
bore, stating that 'most of these carbs have seen many more miles than
originally designed for'.
Personally, I use the SU dashpot oil as well, though my friend uses the 90w
in his HS4s on his B.
You pays your money, you takes your chances. Whatever works best for you
and your car.
Mark Haynes
It only goes one way- Pay It Forward

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>When John was out here
for
MG
 2009, he also stated that using the 90W compensated for the wear in the in=
terface between the damper and the inner bore, stating that &#39;most of th=
ese carbs have seen many more miles than originally designed for&#39;. <br>=
</div><div>Personally, I use the SU dashpot oil as well, though my friend u=
ses the 90w in his HS4s on his B.</div><div>You pays your money, you takes =
your chances. Whatever works best for you and your car.<br></div><div><div>=
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signatur=
e"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Mark Haynes<br></div>It only goes one way- Pay It =
Forward<br></div></div></div></div></div>

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From: "Bill L. via Spridgets" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2021 14:52:35 -0700

Hello Mark,

I have heard everything from SU carb oil (I have a squeeze bottle of it) to ATF to Marvel Mystery Oil, sewing machine oil, 10W, 20W 90W, etc etc. 

THE BOOK says put in the same as you put in your crankcase. .. 
Actually the quote is
"Top up damper assembly reservoirs with oil the Ref. A."

Reference A gives the brands from Duckman's to Sternol to Shell, and 3 temperature ranges for each, Tropical down to 41F, Extreme Cold, 41F to 10F and Arctic, below 10F. 

As an example, Tropical ESSO, 40/50 or 40 or 20W/40 
                  Extreme Cold ESSO 20W/30 or 20
                               Arctic ESSO 5W/20

In each case this is as stated

"ENGINE, Drain off the old oil and refill with fresh oil to Ref. A."

So,,, Whatever you are putting in the crankcase is the right stuff for the damper. 

There may be reasons and preferences for doing something other. 

I run a Weber DGV and am unconcerned any longer, but thought I should share to keep some from over thinking it. 

YMMV

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Best regards,
 Bill                            mailto:[email-masked]

Warning! COLDBEER.CAN found, programmer probably loaded. 

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