Subject: [Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness

From: Hal Faulkner via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 11:19:18 -0700

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Listerati,
Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my long term
overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275
with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old
3 to one exhaust manifold with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also
by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car.  The concern I have
is that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake.  Torquing
the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this
measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.  Of
course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on
the intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which
,if nothing else, doesn't look very cool.  The attached photo shows about
.035" of feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange.  The
exhaust manifold is snug.

What would you do?

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Listerati,<div>Trying to get off my rear end and make some=
 progress in my long term overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine=
 is now a 20 over 1275 with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I=
 have replaced the old 3 to one exhaust manifold=C2=A0with a Maniflow LCB, =
the intake manifold is also by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with =
the car.=C2=A0 The concern I have is that the flange is thicker on the exha=
ust than on the intake.=C2=A0 Torquing the manifolds until the exhaust just=
 touches the block (no gasket for this measurement) leaves the intake manif=
old with about 35 thousands play.=C2=A0 Of course, this can be taken up in =
the gasket, but that leaves the washer on the intake side (of the common st=
uds) sitting at a noticeable angle, which ,if nothing else, doesn&#39;t loo=
k very cool.=C2=A0 The attached photo shows about .035&quot; of feeler betw=
een the washero and the intake manifold flange.=C2=A0 The exhaust manifold =
is snug.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>What would you do?=C2=A0=C2=
=A0</div><div><br></div></div>

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From: crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2020 14:52:47 -0400

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Try brazing up one side of the washer and file/grind the brass to about the thickness you need.Or!   Grind down 1 side of the washer to get the washer to lay flat.OR!Add or subtract to the manifold or header flange to get them to match.Now I wanna know the final "fix" on this one!ChuckSent from my LG Mobile------ Original message------From: Hal Faulkner via SpridgetsDate: Sat, Sep 5, 2020 2:21 PMTo: Spridgets;Cc: Subject:[Spridgets] Manifold flange thicknessListerati,Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my long term overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275 with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old 3 to one exhaust manifold with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car.  The concern I have is that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake.  Torquing the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.  Of course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on the intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which ,if nothing else, doesn't look very cool.  The attached photo shows about .035" of feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange.  The exhaust manifold is snug.  What would you do?  

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    <div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div dir="auto">Try brazing up one side of the washer and file/grind the brass to about the thickness you need.</div><div dir="auto">Or!&nbsp; &nbsp;Grind down 1 side of the washer to get the washer to lay flat.</div><div dir="auto">OR!</div><div dir="auto">Add or subtract to the manifold or header flange to get them to match.</div><div dir="auto">Now I wanna know the final "fix" on this one!</div><div dir="auto">Chuck</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div><div dir="auto" style="font-size:9pt;"><i>Sent from my LG Mobile</i></div></div></div><div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div id="LGEmailHeader" dir="auto"><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">------ Original message------</div><div dir="auto"><b>From: </b>Hal Faulkner via Spridgets<[email-masked]></[email-masked]></div><div dir="auto"><b>Date: </b>Sat, Sep 5, 2020 2:21 PM</div><div dir="auto"><b>To: </b>Spridgets;</div><div dir="auto"><b>Cc: </b></div><div dir="auto"><b>Subject:</b>[Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness</div><div dir="auto"><br></div></div><div dir="ltr">Listerati,<div>Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my long term overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275 with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old 3 to one exhaust manifold&nbsp;with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car.&nbsp; The concern I have is that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake.&nbsp; Torquing the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.&nbsp; Of course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on the intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which ,if nothing else, doesn't look very cool.&nbsp; The attached photo shows about .035" of feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange.&nbsp; The exhaust manifold is snug.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>What would you do?&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div><br></div></div>
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