Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed From Hell Yesterday!

From: JMFangio via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 07:51:41 -0500

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First, using your =E2=80=9Coh so shitty=E2=80=99 Mityvac, you did put =
some grease around the nipple being bled right?  It=E2=80=99s important =
as air will come in through the threads.  In fact air coming in is most =
likely from there or from the master if you ran out of fluid.  I =
haven=E2=80=99t had much luck with Mityvacs either FWIW.

Second, yup, put the drum on and roll away.

Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the wheel you are putting back =
on needs to be all the way in, second getting the shoes aligned =
perfectly to get the drum back on takes a little fiddling, if there is =
rust on the edge of the drum (where it first contacts the shoes going on =
) that won=E2=80=99t help things.

Lastly, the wheel cylinders are inexpensive, get new ones.

Lester

> On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets =
<[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> List,
> I'm waiting for all new parts from Gerard so that is the good news, =
yes just be patient Linda. Below starts my bad news of not being =
successful which seems to be my biggest problem being "defeated" when =
working on any car project especially a Spridget.
>=20
> While I'm waiting for my parts to be built from Gerard I wanted to get =
my Spridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus out of the =
garage and in turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older brother =
as he will be leaving in 8 days for his cross country Harley Davidson =
trip to our family in California. Below is my hell with brake bleeding.
>=20
> I decided to continue bleeding with the "oh so shitty" Mityvac bleeder =
device as the brakes were hard but went to the floor after holding for =
longer periods of time. I cleaned the drums and all the rear parts with =
Brakcleen and was very happy with the results (I should be grateful for =
that), I kept getting air coming from the bleeder and hose to the =
Mityvac container which was sucking air and no clamp could control it on =
the drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it was clear. Then I went =
to the passengers side rear, some air although not as much, then off to =
the passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I got Pinky in =
2006) and it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers front caliper. =
When I was done with the messy job with continuous filling of the MC I =
still didn't have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that before I =
started, (yes don't fix what is not broken).=20
>=20
> I went to the store got new hose 1/4" clear as I suspected my hose =
would not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I decided to =
bleed the way I was successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of fluid =
push peddle hold peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. =
It was a sloppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers wheel =
cylinder which now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. =
I was unable to get the massive amounts of air out of the line now and =
have a very squishy peddle.
>=20
> I cleaned everything up after returning to using the stupid Mityvac =
again and now I can't get the drum on the shitty drivers rear wheel as =
the pads aren't lining up to get the drum on it. Note: I had to use a =
wheel puller to remove the drum (with now leaky cylinder) in the first =
place. After tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of =
alignment to get the drum on the spring popped out (long spring has a =
spring coil on ether side and length of of rod separating both half's). =
I got so fed up last night I just cleaned up and hope for some advice.
>=20
> Questions:=20
> 1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum =
back on then the rear wheel so I can push the car without breaking =
anything? I'll assume yes.=20
>=20
> 2. Can I assume the only way I can get the car to move to the street =
under it own power and brakes is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder =
locally fast to replace the leaker as a temporary fix while waiting for =
the good parts from Gerard then I can get my LBC into the garage and =
work through the night when the parts arrive, and get that bike out too.
>=20
> 3. Was I supposed to leave the master cylinder cap off when bleeding =
or put it back on during the bleeding procedure?
>=20
> Thanks guys for all your continued support I really want to succeed =
with this on my own and most importantly understand my LBC.
> Linda
> 62 California Sprite w/front discs "Pinky"
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
> "Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
> ------------------------
>=20
> [email-masked]
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  =
http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">First, using your =E2=80=9Coh so shitty=E2=80=99 Mityvac, you =
did put some grease around the nipple being bled right? &nbsp;It=E2=80=99s=
 important as air will come in through the threads. &nbsp;In fact air =
coming in is most likely from there or from the master if you ran out of =
fluid. &nbsp;I haven=E2=80=99t had much luck with Mityvacs either =
FWIW.<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Second, yup, =
put the drum on and roll away.</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on =
the wheel you are putting back on needs to be all the way in, second =
getting the shoes aligned perfectly to get the drum back on takes a =
little fiddling, if there is rust on the edge of the drum (where it =
first contacts the shoes going on ) that won=E2=80=99t help things.<br =
class=3D""><div class=3D""><div><br class=3D""></div><div>Lastly, the =
wheel cylinders are inexpensive, get new ones.</div><div><br =
class=3D""></div><div>Lester</div><div><br class=3D""></div><div><br =
class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Jun =
28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"">List,<div class=3D"">I'm waiting for all new parts from =
Gerard so that is the good news, yes just be patient Linda. Below starts =
my bad news of not being successful which seems to be my biggest problem =
being "defeated" when working on any car project especially a =
Spridget.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">While =
I'm waiting for my parts to be built from Gerard I wanted to get my =
Spridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus out of the garage =
and in turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older brother as he =
will be leaving in 8 days for his cross country Harley Davidson trip to =
our family in California. Below is my hell with brake =
bleeding.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I =
decided to continue bleeding with the "oh so shitty" Mityvac bleeder =
device as the brakes were hard but went to the floor after holding for =
longer periods of time. I cleaned the drums and all the rear parts with =
Brakcleen and was very happy with the results (I should be grateful for =
that), I kept getting air coming from the bleeder and hose to the =
Mityvac container which was sucking air and no clamp could control it on =
the drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it was clear. Then I went =
to the passengers side rear, some air although not as much, then off to =
the passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I got Pinky in =
2006) and it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers front caliper. =
When I was done with the messy job with continuous filling of the MC I =
still didn't have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that before I =
started, (yes don't fix what is not broken).&nbsp;</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I went to the store got =
new hose 1/4" clear as I suspected my hose would not keep a seal to the =
container or the brake nipple. I decided to bleed the way I was =
successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of fluid push peddle hold =
peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It was a sloppy =
nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers wheel cylinder which =
now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. I was unable to =
get the massive amounts of air out of the line now and have a very =
squishy peddle.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">I cleaned everything up after returning to using the stupid =
Mityvac again and now I can't get the drum on the shitty drivers rear =
wheel as the pads aren't lining up to get the drum on it. Note: I had to =
use a wheel puller to remove the drum (with now leaky cylinder) in the =
first place. After tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some =
kind of alignment to get the drum on the spring popped out (long spring =
has a spring coil on ether side and length of of rod separating both =
half's). I got so fed up last night I just cleaned up and hope for some =
advice.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">Questions:&nbsp;</div><div class=3D"">1. Can I remove the =
drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum back on then the rear =
wheel so I can push the car without breaking anything? I'll assume =
yes.&nbsp;</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">2. =
Can I assume the only way I can get the car to move to the street under =
it own power and brakes is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder locally =
fast to replace the leaker as a temporary fix while waiting for the good =
parts from Gerard then I can get my LBC into the garage and work through =
the night when the parts arrive, and get that bike out too.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">3. Was I supposed to =
leave the master cylinder cap off when bleeding or put it back on during =
the bleeding procedure?</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">Thanks guys for all your continued support I really want to =
succeed with this on my own and most importantly understand my =
LBC.</div><div class=3D"">Linda</div><div class=3D"">62 California =
Sprite w/front discs "Pinky"</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><br clear=3D"all" class=3D""><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div>-- <br class=3D""><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature"><div =
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D""><span style=3D"font-size:small" class=3D"">"Pay =
if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut</span><br =
class=3D""></div></div></div></div>
------------------------<br class=3D""><br class=3D""><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br class=3D"">Suggested=
 annual donation: $12.75<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets =
&nbsp;http://autox.team.net/archive<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]<br =
class=3D""></div></blockquote></div><br =
class=3D""></div></div></body></html>=

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[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive

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---

From: Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 09:39:05 -0400

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Yes, yes and yes, Lester, I tried everything on the hoses to the Mityvac
pump and I never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4" hose to the vac it was
better but too late too much air got in. Yes I turned the adjuster to clear
the pads as I do understand how to adjust that screw. Although when I get
all my new parts I'll require a list to learn that adjustment.

Three new questions:

1. If I remove these drivers pads & the spring parts and put the drum back
on and wheel to roll her what could happen if I press the brake peddle will
I brake anything? Will the calipers up front and rear passengers pads stop
the car so I can use engine power to move it and not hurt my back?

2. How do I know what size this wheel cylinder is to buy another for
temporary use till Gerard's parts arrive? Victoria British catalog lists
several sizes as per engine size & I did not install these but I do have an
upgraded 1275 and front disc brakes so I'm assuming they are for 1275 (see
pics attached).

3. The front calipers are making the front wheels tight to rotate but with
wheels on I can rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to inspect as I recall
doing this before with my Spitfire back in the day and I press the pads in
to get back on the disc.

Again thanks for all your help Lester and to all the List,
Linda

On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 8:51 AM JMFangio <[email-masked]> wrote:

> First, using your =E2=80=9Coh so shitty=E2=80=99 Mityvac, you did put som=
e grease around
> the nipple being bled right?  It=E2=80=99s important as air will come in =
through
> the threads.  In fact air coming in is most likely from there or from the
> master if you ran out of fluid.  I haven=E2=80=99t had much luck with Mit=
yvacs
> either FWIW.
> Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the wheel you are putting back on
> needs to be all the way in, second getting the shoes aligned perfectly to
> get the drum back on takes a little fiddling, if there is rust on the edg=
e
> of the drum (where it first contacts the shoes going on ) that won=E2=80=
=99t help
> things.
> On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <
> [email-masked]> wrote:
>
> List,
> I'm waiting for all new parts from Gerard so that is the good news, yes
> just be patient Linda. Below starts my bad news of not being successful
> which seems to be my biggest problem being "defeated" when working on any
> car project especially a Spridget.
>
> While I'm waiting for my parts to be built from Gerard I wanted to get my
> Spridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus out of the garage an=
d
> in turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older brother as he will be
> leaving in 8 days for his cross country Harley Davidson trip to our famil=
y
> in California. Below is my hell with brake bleeding.
>
> I decided to continue bleeding with the "oh so shitty" Mityvac bleeder
> device as the brakes were hard but went to the floor after holding for
> longer periods of time. I cleaned the drums and all the rear parts with
> Brakcleen and was very happy with the results (I should be grateful for
> that), I kept getting air coming from the bleeder and hose to the Mityvac
> container which was sucking air and no clamp could control it on the
> drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it was clear. Then I went to the
> passengers side rear, some air although not as much, then off to the
> passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I got Pinky in 2006) an=
d
> it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers front caliper. When I was
> done with the messy job with continuous filling of the MC I still didn't
> have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that before I started, (yes don=
't
> fix what is not broken).
>
> I went to the store got new hose 1/4" clear as I suspected my hose would
> not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I decided to bleed
> the way I was successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of fluid push
> peddle hold peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It was=
 a
> sloppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers wheel cylinder
> which now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. I was unab=
le
> to get the massive amounts of air out of the line now and have a very
> squishy peddle.
>
> I cleaned everything up after returning to using the stupid Mityvac again
> and now I can't get the drum on the shitty drivers rear wheel as the pads
> aren't lining up to get the drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel puller
> to remove the drum (with now leaky cylinder) in the first place. After
> tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of alignment to g=
et
> the drum on the spring popped out (long spring has a spring coil on ether
> side and length of of rod separating both half's). I got so fed up last
> night I just cleaned up and hope for some advice.
>
> Questions:
> 1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum back
> on then the rear wheel so I can push the car without breaking anything?
> I'll assume yes.
>
> 2. Can I assume the only way I can get the car to move to the street unde=
r
> it own power and brakes is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder locally
> fast to replace the leaker as a temporary fix while waiting for the good
> parts from Gerard then I can get my LBC into the garage and work through
> the night when the parts arrive, and get that bike out too.
>
> 3. Was I supposed to leave the master cylinder cap off when bleeding or
> put it back on during the bleeding procedure?
>
> Thanks guys for all your continued support I really want to succeed with
> this on my own and most importantly understand my LBC.
> Linda
> --
> Unsubscribe/Manage:

--=20

--0000000000009f0504058c62677e
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Yes, yes and yes, Lester, I tried everything on the hoses =
to the Mityvac pump and I never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4&quot; hos=
e to the vac it was better but too late too much air got in. Yes I turned t=
he adjuster to clear the pads as I do understand how to adjust that screw. =
Although when I get all my new parts I&#39;ll require a list to learn that =
adjustment.<div><br></div><div>Three new questions:<div><br></div><div>1. I=
f I remove these drivers pads &amp; the spring parts and put the drum back =
on and wheel to roll her what could happen if I press the brake peddle will=
 I brake anything? Will the calipers up front and rear passengers pads stop=
 the car so I can use engine power to move it and not hurt my back?</div><d=
iv><br></div><div>2. How do I know what size this wheel cylinder is to buy =
another for temporary use till Gerard&#39;s parts arrive? Victoria British =
catalog lists several sizes as per engine size &amp; I did not install thes=
e but I do have an upgraded 1275 and front disc brakes so I&#39;m assuming =
they are for 1275 (see pics attached).=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>3. Th=
e front calipers are making the front wheels tight to rotate but with wheel=
s on I can rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to inspect as I recall doing th=
is before with my Spitfire back in the day and I press the pads in to get b=
ack on the disc.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Again thanks for all your=
=C2=A0help Lester and to all the List,</div><div>Linda</div><div><br></div>=
<div><br><div><br></div><div><br></div></div></div></div><br><div class=3D"=
gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at =
8:51 AM JMFangio &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">oldsaabguy@c=
omcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;=
border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"word-wra=
p:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">First, using your =E2=80=9Coh so=
 shitty=E2=80=99 Mityvac, you did put some grease around the nipple being b=
led right?=C2=A0 It=E2=80=99s important as air will come in through the thr=
eads.=C2=A0 In fact air coming in is most likely from there or from the mas=
ter if you ran out of fluid.=C2=A0 I haven=E2=80=99t had much luck with Mit=
yvacs either FWIW.<div><br></div><div>Second, yup, put the drum on and roll=
 away.</div><div><br></div><div>Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the=
 wheel you are putting back on needs to be all the way in, second getting t=
he shoes aligned perfectly to get the drum back on takes a little fiddling,=
 if there is rust on the edge of the drum (where it first contacts the shoe=
s going on ) that won=E2=80=99t help things.<br><div><div><br></div><div>La=
stly, the wheel cylinders are inexpensive, get new ones.</div><div><br></di=
v><div>Lester</div><div><br></div><div><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>O=
n Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets &lt;<a href=3D"m=
ailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]<=
/a>&gt; wrote:</div><br class=3D"gmail-m_5877765253755109347Apple-interchan=
ge-newline"><div><div dir=3D"ltr">List,<div>I&#39;m waiting for all new par=
ts from Gerard so that is the good news, yes just be patient Linda. Below s=
tarts my bad news of not being successful which seems to be my biggest prob=
lem being &quot;defeated&quot; when working on any car project especially a=
 Spridget.</div><div><br></div><div>While I&#39;m waiting for my parts to b=
e built from Gerard I wanted to get my Spridget out of the driveway so I ca=
n get the VW bus out of the garage and in turn get my motorcycle out to rid=
e with my older brother as he will be leaving in 8 days for his cross count=
ry Harley Davidson trip to our family in California. Below is my hell with =
brake bleeding.</div><div><br></div><div>I decided to continue bleeding wit=
h the &quot;oh so shitty&quot; Mityvac bleeder device as the brakes were ha=
rd but went to the floor after holding for longer periods of time. I cleane=
d the drums and all the rear parts with Brakcleen and was very happy with t=
he results (I should be grateful for that), I kept getting air coming from =
the bleeder and hose to the Mityvac container which was sucking air and no =
clamp could control it on the drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it w=
as clear. Then I went to the passengers side rear, some air although not as=
 much, then off to the passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc&#39;s whe=
n I got Pinky in 2006) and it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers =
front caliper. When I was done with the messy job with continuous filling o=
f the MC I still didn&#39;t have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that =
before I started, (yes don&#39;t fix what is not broken).=C2=A0</div><div><=
br></div><div>I went to the store got new hose 1/4&quot; clear as I suspect=
ed my hose would not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I de=
cided to bleed the way I was successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of=
 fluid push peddle hold peddle with a 3/4&quot; dowel and then shut off the=
 nipple. It was a sloppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers =
wheel cylinder which now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful fo=
r. I was unable to get the massive amounts of air out of the line now and h=
ave a very squishy peddle.</div><div><br></div><div>I cleaned everything up=
 after returning to using the stupid Mityvac again and now I can&#39;t get =
the drum on the shitty drivers rear wheel as the pads aren&#39;t lining up =
to get the drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel puller to remove the drum=
 (with now leaky cylinder) in the first place. After tapping with my lead h=
ammer on the ads to get some kind of alignment to get the drum on the sprin=
g popped out (long spring has a spring coil on ether side and length of of =
rod separating both half&#39;s). I got so fed up last night I just cleaned =
up and hope for some advice.</div><div><br></div><div>Questions:=C2=A0</div=
><div>1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum =
back on then the rear wheel so I can push the car without breaking anything=
? I&#39;ll assume yes.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>2. Can I assume the o=
nly way I can get the car to move to the street under it own power and brak=
es is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder locally fast to replace the leak=
er as a temporary fix while waiting for the good parts from Gerard then I c=
an get my LBC into the garage and work through the night when the parts arr=
ive, and get that bike out too.</div><div><br></div><div>3. Was I supposed =
to leave the master cylinder cap off when bleeding or put it back on during=
 the bleeding procedure?</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks guys for all your =
continued support I really want to succeed with this on my own and most imp=
ortantly understand my LBC.</div><div>Linda</div><div>62 California Sprite =
w/front discs &quot;Pinky&quot;</div><div><br></div><div><br clear=3D"all">=
<div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail-m_5877765253755109347=
gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"font-size:small">&quot;Pay=
 if forward&quot; in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut</span><br></div>=
</div></div></div>
------------------------<br><br><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
 target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br><br>Donate: <a href=3D"h=
ttp://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donat=
e.html</a><br>Suggested annual donation: $12.75<br><br>Archive: <a href=3D"=
http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.=
net/pipermail/spridgets</a> =C2=A0<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive"=
 target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/Man=
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comcast.net" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridg=
ets/[email-masked]</a><br></div></blockquote></div><br></div></div>=
</div></blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=
=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"font-siz=
e:small">&quot;Pay if forward&quot; in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenu=
t</span><br></div></div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Mike Myers via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 10:27:28 -0400

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Lin,

If you press on the brake pedal with the shoes and springs missing that whee=
l cylinder will have no resistance and the piston may blow out past the seal=
. You may want to disconnect brake line from that cylinder and cap it off so=
 pressure will build up to the other wheels and give you some brakes to move=
 it around=20

Mike Myers

> On Jun 28, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <spridgets@aut=
ox.team.net> wrote:
>=20
> Yes, yes and yes, Lester, I tried everything on the hoses to the Mityvac p=
ump and I never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4" hose to the vac it was be=
tter but too late too much air got in. Yes I turned the adjuster to clear th=
e pads as I do understand how to adjust that screw. Although when I get all m=
y new parts I'll require a list to learn that adjustment.
>=20
> Three new questions:
>=20
> 1. If I remove these drivers pads & the spring parts and put the drum back=
 on and wheel to roll her what could happen if I press the brake peddle will=
 I brake anything? Will the calipers up front and rear passengers pads stop t=
he car so I can use engine power to move it and not hurt my back?
>=20
> 2. How do I know what size this wheel cylinder is to buy another for tempo=
rary use till Gerard's parts arrive? Victoria British catalog lists several s=
izes as per engine size & I did not install these but I do have an upgraded 1=
275 and front disc brakes so I'm assuming they are for 1275 (see pics attach=
ed).=20
>=20
> 3. The front calipers are making the front wheels tight to rotate but with=
 wheels on I can rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to inspect as I recall doi=
ng this before with my Spitfire back in the day and I press the pads in to g=
et back on the disc.=20
>> First, using your =E2=80=9Coh so shitty=E2=80=99 Mityvac, you did put som=
e grease around the nipple being bled right?  It=E2=80=99s important as air w=
ill come in through the threads.  In fact air coming in is most likely from t=
here or from the master if you ran out of fluid.  I haven=E2=80=99t had much=
 luck with Mityvacs either FWIW.
>> Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the wheel you are putting back on=
 needs to be all the way in, second getting the shoes aligned perfectly to g=
et the drum back on takes a little fiddling, if there is rust on the edge of=
 the drum (where it first contacts the shoes going on ) that won=E2=80=99t h=
elp things.
>>> On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <spridgets@a=
utox.team.net> wrote:
>>>=20
>>> List,
>>> I'm waiting for all new parts from Gerard so that is the good news, yes j=
ust be patient Linda. Below starts my bad news of not being successful which=
 seems to be my biggest problem being "defeated" when working on any car pro=
ject especially a Spridget.
>>>=20
>>> While I'm waiting for my parts to be built from Gerard I wanted to get m=
y Spridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus out of the garage and=
 in turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older brother as he will be l=
eaving in 8 days for his cross country Harley Davidson trip to our family in=
 California. Below is my hell with brake bleeding.
>>>=20
>>> I decided to continue bleeding with the "oh so shitty" Mityvac bleeder d=
evice as the brakes were hard but went to the floor after holding for longer=
 periods of time. I cleaned the drums and all the rear parts with Brakcleen a=
nd was very happy with the results (I should be grateful for that), I kept g=
etting air coming from the bleeder and hose to the Mityvac container which w=
as sucking air and no clamp could control it on the drivers rear wheel cylin=
der but at least it was clear. Then I went to the passengers side rear, some=
 air although not as much, then off to the passenger front caliper (yes upgr=
aded disc's when I got Pinky in 2006) and it seemed nice and air free then t=
o the drivers front caliper. When I was done with the messy job with continu=
ous filling of the MC I still didn't have a firm peddle and somewhat less fi=
rm that before I started, (yes don't fix what is not broken).=20
>>>=20
>>> I went to the store got new hose 1/4" clear as I suspected my hose would=
 not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I decided to bleed th=
e way I was successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of fluid push peddle=
 hold peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It was a sloppy=
 nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers wheel cylinder which now I=
 know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. I was unable to get the m=
assive amounts of air out of the line now and have a very squishy peddle.
>>>=20
>>> I cleaned everything up after returning to using the stupid Mityvac agai=
n and now I can't get the drum on the shitty drivers rear wheel as the pads a=
ren't lining up to get the drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel puller to r=
emove the drum (with now leaky cylinder) in the first place. After tapping w=
ith my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of alignment to get the drum o=
n the spring popped out (long spring has a spring coil on ether side and len=
gth of of rod separating both half's). I got so fed up last night I just cle=
aned up and hope for some advice.
>>>=20
>>> Questions:=20
>>> 1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum bac=
k on then the rear wheel so I can push the car without breaking anything? I'=
ll assume yes.=20
>>>=20
>>> 2. Can I assume the only way I can get the car to move to the street und=
er it own power and brakes is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder locally f=
ast to replace the leaker as a temporary fix while waiting for the good part=
s from Gerard then I can get my LBC into the garage and work through the nig=
ht when the parts arrive, and get that bike out too.
>>>=20
>>> 3. Was I supposed to leave the master cylinder cap off when bleeding or p=
ut it back on during the bleeding procedure?
>>>=20
>>> Thanks guys for all your continued support I really want to succeed with=
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/=
archive
>>>=20
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/olds=
[email-masked]
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/mdmyer=
[email-masked]

--Apple-Mail-14BB7A56-2824-4C74-9601-BAE2E6D65C33
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Lin=
,</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">If you press on the brake=
 pedal with the shoes and springs missing that wheel cylinder will have no r=
esistance and the piston may blow out past the seal. You may want to disconn=
ect brake line from that cylinder and cap it off so pressure will build up t=
o the other wheels and give you some brakes to move it around&nbsp;</div><di=
v dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Mike Myers</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><b=
r>On Jun 28, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets &lt;<a href=3D=
"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br=
><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr">Yes, y=
es and yes, Lester, I tried everything on the hoses to the Mityvac pump and I=
 never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4" hose to the vac it was better but t=
oo late too much air got in. Yes I turned the adjuster to clear the pads as I=
 do understand how to adjust that screw. Although when I get all my new part=
s I'll require a list to learn that adjustment.<div><br></div><div>Three new=
 questions:<div><br></div><div>1. If I remove these drivers pads &amp; the s=
pring parts and put the drum back on and wheel to roll her what could happen=
 if I press the brake peddle will I brake anything? Will the calipers up fro=
nt and rear passengers pads stop the car so I can use engine power to move i=
t and not hurt my back?</div><div><br></div><div>2. How do I know what size t=
his wheel cylinder is to buy another for temporary use till Gerard's parts a=
rrive? Victoria British catalog lists several sizes as per engine size &amp;=
 I did not install these but I do have an upgraded 1275 and front disc brake=
s so I'm assuming they are for 1275 (see pics attached).&nbsp;</div><div><br=
></div><div>3. The front calipers are making the front wheels tight to rotat=
e but with wheels on I can rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to inspect as I r=
ecall doing this before with my Spitfire back in the day and I press the pad=
s in to get back on the disc.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Again thanks fo=
r all your&nbsp;help Lester and to all the List,</div><div>Linda</div><div><=
br></div><div><br><div><br></div><div><br></div></div></div></div><br><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Jun 28, 2=
019 at 8:51 AM JMFangio &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">oldsaa=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" s=
tyle=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:sol=
id;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"word-w=
rap:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">First, using your =E2=80=9Coh s=
o shitty=E2=80=99 Mityvac, you did put some grease around the nipple being b=
led right?&nbsp; It=E2=80=99s important as air will come in through the thre=
ads.&nbsp; In fact air coming in is most likely from there or from the maste=
r if you ran out of fluid.&nbsp; I haven=E2=80=99t had much luck with Mityva=
cs either FWIW.<div><br></div><div>Second, yup, put the drum on and roll awa=
y.</div><div><br></div><div>Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the whee=
l you are putting back on needs to be all the way in, second getting the sho=
es aligned perfectly to get the drum back on takes a little fiddling, if the=
re is rust on the edge of the drum (where it first contacts the shoes going o=
n ) that won=E2=80=99t help things.<br><div><div><br></div><div>Lastly, the w=
heel cylinders are inexpensive, get new ones.</div><div><br></div><div>Leste=
r</div><div><br></div><div><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>On Jun 28, 201=
9, at 7:37 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:spridget=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<=
/div><br class=3D"gmail-m_5877765253755109347Apple-interchange-newline"><div=
><div dir=3D"ltr">List,<div>I'm waiting for all new parts from Gerard so tha=
t is the good news, yes just be patient Linda. Below starts my bad news of n=
ot being successful which seems to be my biggest problem being "defeated" wh=
en working on any car project especially a Spridget.</div><div><br></div><di=
v>While I'm waiting for my parts to be built from Gerard I wanted to get my S=
pridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus out of the garage and in=
 turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older brother as he will be leav=
ing in 8 days for his cross country Harley Davidson trip to our family in Ca=
lifornia. Below is my hell with brake bleeding.</div><div><br></div><div>I d=
ecided to continue bleeding with the "oh so shitty" Mityvac bleeder device a=
s the brakes were hard but went to the floor after holding for longer period=
s of time. I cleaned the drums and all the rear parts with Brakcleen and was=
 very happy with the results (I should be grateful for that), I kept getting=
 air coming from the bleeder and hose to the Mityvac container which was suc=
king air and no clamp could control it on the drivers rear wheel cylinder bu=
t at least it was clear. Then I went to the passengers side rear, some air a=
lthough not as much, then off to the passenger front caliper (yes upgraded d=
isc's when I got Pinky in 2006) and it seemed nice and air free then to the d=
rivers front caliper. When I was done with the messy job with continuous fil=
ling of the MC I still didn't have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that=
 before I started, (yes don't fix what is not broken).&nbsp;</div><div><br><=
/div><div>I went to the store got new hose 1/4" clear as I suspected my hose=
 would not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I decided to bl=
eed the way I was successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of fluid push p=
eddle hold peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It was a s=
loppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers wheel cylinder which=
 now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. I was unable to ge=
t the massive amounts of air out of the line now and have a very squishy ped=
dle.</div><div><br></div><div>I cleaned everything up after returning to usi=
ng the stupid Mityvac again and now I can't get the drum on the shitty drive=
rs rear wheel as the pads aren't lining up to get the drum on it. Note: I ha=
d to use a wheel puller to remove the drum (with now leaky cylinder) in the f=
irst place. After tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of=
 alignment to get the drum on the spring popped out (long spring has a sprin=
g coil on ether side and length of of rod separating both half's). I got so f=
ed up last night I just cleaned up and hope for some advice.</div><div><br><=
/div><div>Questions:&nbsp;</div><div>1. Can I remove the drum pads from the s=
hitty wheel and put the drum back on then the rear wheel so I can push the c=
ar without breaking anything? I'll assume yes.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><di=
v>2. Can I assume the only way I can get the car to move to the street under=
 it own power and brakes is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder locally fas=
t to replace the leaker as a temporary fix while waiting for the good parts f=
rom Gerard then I can get my LBC into the garage and work through the night w=
hen the parts arrive, and get that bike out too.</div><div><br></div><div>3.=
 Was I supposed to leave the master cylinder cap off when bleeding or put it=
 back on during the bleeding procedure?</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks guys=
 for all your continued support I really want to succeed with this on my own=
 and most importantly understand my LBC.</div><div>Linda</div><div>62 Califo=
rnia Sprite w/front discs "Pinky"</div><div><br></div><div><br clear=3D"all"=
><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail-m_5877765253755109347=
gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"font-size:small">"Pay if fo=
rward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut</span><br></div></div></div>=
</div>
------------------------<br><br><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" t=
arget=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br><br>Donate: <a href=3D"http=
://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.ht=
ml</a><br>Suggested annual donation: $12.75<br><br>Archive: <a href=3D"http:=
//www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pi=
permail/spridgets</a> &nbsp;<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" target=
=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a h=
ref=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]=
t" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/oldsaab=
[email-masked]</a><br></div></blockquote></div><br></div></div></div></bloc=
kquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D=
"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"font-size:small">"Pay if f=
orward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut</span><br></div></div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">&lt;IMG_1589.J=
PG&gt;</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">&lt;IMG_=
1590.JPG&gt;</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><s=
pan>------------------------</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href=3D"mai=
lto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></span><br><span><=
/span><br><span>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://w=
ww.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation: $12.7=
5</span><br><span></span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/p=
ipermail/spridgets">http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets</a> &nbsp;<a hre=
f=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a></span>=
<br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.=
net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]">http://autox.team.net/mai=
lman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]</a></span><br></div></blockquote>=
</body></html>=

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------------------------

[email-masked]

--===============7363314263798310572==--

---

From: Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2019 08:49:49 -0400

--===============1089331493337812430==

--000000000000443679058c75d5f9
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Mike,
That makes a lot of sense, what size is that cap and are they standard?

Now I see why I have all that air and blew out that wheel cylinder, I had
the drum off when I bleed it. Whoops getting back to the books and school
of hard knocks. What a mistake I made.
Linda

On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 10:27 AM Mike Myers <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Lin,
>
> If you press on the brake pedal with the shoes and springs missing that
> wheel cylinder will have no resistance and the piston may blow out past t=
he
> seal. You may want to disconnect brake line from that cylinder and cap it
> off so pressure will build up to the other wheels and give you some brake=
s
> to move it around
>
> Mike Myers
>
> On Jun 28, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <
> pump and I never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4" hose to the vac it wa=
s
> better but too late too much air got in. Yes I turned the adjuster to cle=
ar
> 1. If I remove these drivers pads & the spring parts and put the drum bac=
k
> on and wheel to roll her what could happen if I press the brake peddle wi=
ll
> I brake anything? Will the calipers up front and rear passengers pads sto=
p
> several sizes as per engine size & I did not install these but I do have =
an
> upgraded 1275 and front disc brakes so I'm assuming they are for 1275 (se=
e
> pics attached).
>
> 3. The front calipers are making the front wheels tight to rotate but wit=
h
> doing this before with my Spitfire back in the day and I press the pads i=
n
>> First, using your =E2=80=9Coh so shitty=E2=80=99 Mityvac, you did put so=
me grease around
>> the nipple being bled right?  It=E2=80=99s important as air will come in=
 through
>> the threads.  In fact air coming in is most likely from there or from th=
e
>> master if you ran out of fluid.  I haven=E2=80=99t had much luck with Mi=
tyvacs
>> Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the wheel you are putting back o=
n
>> needs to be all the way in, second getting the shoes aligned perfectly t=
o
>> get the drum back on takes a little fiddling, if there is rust on the ed=
ge
=99t help
>> which seems to be my biggest problem being "defeated" when working on an=
y
y
>> Spridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus out of the garage a=
nd
>> in turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older brother as he will b=
e
>> leaving in 8 days for his cross country Harley Davidson trip to our fami=
ly
>> that), I kept getting air coming from the bleeder and hose to the Mityva=
c
>> drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it was clear. Then I went to th=
e
>> passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I got Pinky in 2006) a=
nd
>> it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers front caliper. When I wa=
s
>> have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that before I started, (yes do=
n't
>> peddle hold peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It wa=
s a
>> which now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. I was una=
ble
>> I cleaned everything up after returning to using the stupid Mityvac agai=
n
>> and now I can't get the drum on the shitty drivers rear wheel as the pad=
s
>> aren't lining up to get the drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel pulle=
r
>> tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of alignment to =
get
>> the drum on the spring popped out (long spring has a spring coil on ethe=
r
>> 1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum bac=
k
>> 2. Can I assume the only way I can get the car to move to the street
>> under it own power and brakes is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder
the
>> good parts from Gerard then I can get my LBC into the garage and work
>> through the night when the parts arrive, and get that bike out too.
>>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>
>

--=20

--000000000000443679058c75d5f9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Mike,<div>That makes a lot of sense, what size is that cap=
 and are they standard?=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Now I see why I have=
 all that air and blew out that wheel cylinder, I had the drum off when I b=
leed it. Whoops getting back to the books and school of hard knocks. What a=
 mistake I made.<div>Linda</div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">=
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 10:27 AM Mike=
 Myers &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&g=
t; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0p=
x 0px 0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;border-left-color=
:rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></di=
v><div dir=3D"ltr">Lin,</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">If=
 you press on the brake pedal with the shoes and springs missing that wheel=
 cylinder will have no resistance and the piston may blow out past the seal=
. You may want to disconnect brake line from that cylinder and cap it off s=
o pressure will build up to the other wheels and give you some brakes to mo=
ve it around=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Mike My=
ers</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Jun 28, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Linda Grunthaner=
 via Spridgets &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_b=
lank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=
=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr">Yes, yes and yes, Lester, I tri=
ed everything on the hoses to the Mityvac pump and I never let the MC go dr=
y. With a new 1/4&quot; hose to the vac it was better but too late too much=
 air got in. Yes I turned the adjuster to clear the pads as I do understand=
 how to adjust that screw. Although when I get all my new parts I&#39;ll re=
quire a list to learn that adjustment.<div><br></div><div>Three new questio=
ns:<div><br></div><div>1. If I remove these drivers pads &amp; the spring p=
arts and put the drum back on and wheel to roll her what could happen if I =
press the brake peddle will I brake anything? Will the calipers up front an=
d rear passengers pads stop the car so I can use engine power to move it an=
d not hurt my back?</div><div><br></div><div>2. How do I know what size thi=
s wheel cylinder is to buy another for temporary use till Gerard&#39;s part=
s arrive? Victoria British catalog lists several sizes as per engine size &=
amp; I did not install these but I do have an upgraded 1275 and front disc =
brakes so I&#39;m assuming they are for 1275 (see pics attached).=C2=A0</di=
v><div><br></div><div>3. The front calipers are making the front wheels tig=
ht to rotate but with wheels on I can rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to i=
nspect as I recall doing this before with my Spitfire back in the day and I=
 press the pads in to get back on the disc.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>=
Again thanks for all your=C2=A0help Lester and to all the List,</div><div>L=
inda</div><div><br></div><div><br><div><br></div><div><br></div></div></div=
></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr"=
>On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 8:51 AM JMFangio &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:oldsaabguy@=
comcast.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></d=
iv><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;bord=
er-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204=
);padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word;line-break:after-whi=
te-space">First, using your =E2=80=9Coh so shitty=E2=80=99 Mityvac, you did=
 put some grease around the nipple being bled right?=C2=A0 It=E2=80=99s imp=
ortant as air will come in through the threads.=C2=A0 In fact air coming in=
 is most likely from there or from the master if you ran out of fluid.=C2=
=A0 I haven=E2=80=99t had much luck with Mityvacs either FWIW.<div><br></di=
v><div>Second, yup, put the drum on and roll away.</div><div><br></div><div=
>Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the wheel you are putting back on =
needs to be all the way in, second getting the shoes aligned perfectly to g=
et the drum back on takes a little fiddling, if there is rust on the edge o=
f the drum (where it first contacts the shoes going on ) that won=E2=80=99t=
 help things.<br><div><div><br></div><div>Lastly, the wheel cylinders are i=
nexpensive, get new ones.</div><div><br></div><div>Lester</div><div><br></d=
iv><div><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Lin=
da Grunthaner via Spridgets &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
 target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br class=
=3D"gmail-m_-8473239586027171283gmail-m_5877765253755109347Apple-interchang=
e-newline"><div><div dir=3D"ltr">List,<div>I&#39;m waiting for all new part=
s from Gerard so that is the good news, yes just be patient Linda. Below st=
arts my bad news of not being successful which seems to be my biggest probl=
em being &quot;defeated&quot; when working on any car project especially a =
Spridget.</div><div><br></div><div>While I&#39;m waiting for my parts to be=
 built from Gerard I wanted to get my Spridget out of the driveway so I can=
 get the VW bus out of the garage and in turn get my motorcycle out to ride=
 with my older brother as he will be leaving in 8 days for his cross countr=
y Harley Davidson trip to our family in California. Below is my hell with b=
rake bleeding.</div><div><br></div><div>I decided to continue bleeding with=
 the &quot;oh so shitty&quot; Mityvac bleeder device as the brakes were har=
d but went to the floor after holding for longer periods of time. I cleaned=
 the drums and all the rear parts with Brakcleen and was very happy with th=
e results (I should be grateful for that), I kept getting air coming from t=
he bleeder and hose to the Mityvac container which was sucking air and no c=
lamp could control it on the drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it wa=
s clear. Then I went to the passengers side rear, some air although not as =
much, then off to the passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc&#39;s when=
 I got Pinky in 2006) and it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers f=
ront caliper. When I was done with the messy job with continuous filling of=
 the MC I still didn&#39;t have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that b=
efore I started, (yes don&#39;t fix what is not broken).=C2=A0</div><div><b=
r></div><div>I went to the store got new hose 1/4&quot; clear as I suspecte=
d my hose would not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I dec=
ided to bleed the way I was successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of =
fluid push peddle hold peddle with a 3/4&quot; dowel and then shut off the =
nipple. It was a sloppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers w=
heel cylinder which now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for=
. I was unable to get the massive amounts of air out of the line now and ha=
ve a very squishy peddle.</div><div><br></div><div>I cleaned everything up =
after returning to using the stupid Mityvac again and now I can&#39;t get t=
he drum on the shitty drivers rear wheel as the pads aren&#39;t lining up t=
o get the drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel puller to remove the drum =
(with now leaky cylinder) in the first place. After tapping with my lead ha=
mmer on the ads to get some kind of alignment to get the drum on the spring=
 popped out (long spring has a spring coil on ether side and length of of r=
od separating both half&#39;s). I got so fed up last night I just cleaned u=
p and hope for some advice.</div><div><br></div><div>Questions:=C2=A0</div>=
<div>1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum b=
ack on then the rear wheel so I can push the car without breaking anything?=
 I&#39;ll assume yes.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>2. Can I assume the on=
ly way I can get the car to move to the street under it own power and brake=
s is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder locally fast to replace the leake=
r as a temporary fix while waiting for the good parts from Gerard then I ca=
n get my LBC into the garage and work through the night when the parts arri=
ve, and get that bike out too.</div><div><br></div><div>3. Was I supposed t=
o leave the master cylinder cap off when bleeding or put it back on during =
the bleeding procedure?</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks guys for all your c=
ontinued support I really want to succeed with this on my own and most impo=
rtantly understand my LBC.</div><div>Linda</div><div>62 California Sprite w=
/front discs &quot;Pinky&quot;</div><div><br></div><div><br clear=3D"all"><=
div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail-m_-8473239586027171283=
gmail-m_5877765253755109347gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D=
"font-size:small">&quot;Pay if forward&quot; in honor of Frank Clarici III,=
 Spritenut</span><br></div></div></div></div>
------------------------<br><br><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
 target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br><br>Donate: <a href=3D"h=
ttp://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donat=
e.html</a><br>Suggested annual donation: $12.75<br><br>Archive: <a href=3D"=
http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.=
net/pipermail/spridgets</a> =C2=A0<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive"=
 target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/Man=
age: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/oldsaabguy@=
comcast.net" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridg=
ets/[email-masked]</a><br></div></blockquote></div><br></div></div>=
</div></blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=
=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail-m_-8473239586027171283gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"=
ltr"><span style=3D"font-size:small">&quot;Pay if forward&quot; in honor of=
 Frank Clarici III, Spritenut</span><br></div></div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">&lt;IMG_1589.=
JPG&gt;</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">&lt;IM=
G_1590.JPG&gt;</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><span>------------------------</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href=3D=
"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
t</a></span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.n=
et/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span=
><br><span>Suggested annual donation: $12.75</span><br><span></span><br><sp=
an>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets" target=3D"_=
blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets</a> =C2=A0<a href=3D"http://=
autox.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://aut=
ox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank=
">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]</a></=
span><br></div></blockquote></div></blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><div=
><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"lt=
r"><span style=3D"font-size:small">&quot;Pay if forward&quot; in honor of F=
rank Clarici III, Spritenut</span><br></div></div>

--000000000000443679058c75d5f9--

--===============1089331493337812430==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

------------------------

[email-masked]

--===============1089331493337812430==--

---

From: Allen Hefner via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2019 11:27:16 -0400

--===============4498750188127447433==

--000000000000565de3058c78089e
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I feel bad for you, doing all this work and not having much success. There
is only so much of the learning process you can accept before you give up
and buy a Toyota. ;-(

The best brake job is to do it all, and do it right. You should wait until
you have a new or properly rebuilt MC, a new or rebuilt proportioning valve
(often forgotten), new front calipers, new rear wheel cylinders, new flex
hoses, and the proper pads, shoes, rotors and drums (which I would also buy
new). And a brand new bottle of brake fluid (discussed at length, earlier).

Lay them all out on a sheet or drop cloth to keep them clean. Then get to
work, and clean as you go. Start at the front and work your way thru the
system to the rear. Bleed the brakes only after everything else is replaced
and in bristol fashion.

I hope your driveway is level. Spridgets don't weigh much. Get your brother
to help you push the car to a safe place so you can access the garage
stuff, then push it back into the garage and Bob's your uncle. If you are
on a hill, this may not work. You may need a winch...or AAA.

You will feel better about the job if you have everything ready to go and
can complete it in the proper steps. One more thing, buy a cheep cube
'fridge for the garage and stock it with Guinness. Just one stout after
working hard on an LBC will make you feel good about yourself.

Allen Hefner
Norristown, PA
Sun City Center, FL

*Current:*
2016 Subaru outback somewhere
2006 Chebbie
*Former:*
1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series III
1967 Triumph TR4A IRS
1964 VW Type I
1967 VW Type II
1967 Rover 2000TC
1977 MG Midget (Sniff!)

On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 8:50 AM Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <
[email-masked]> wrote:

>> wheel cylinder will have no resistance and the piston may blow out past =
the
>> seal. You may want to disconnect brake line from that cylinder and cap i=
t
>> off so pressure will build up to the other wheels and give you some brak=
es
>> pump and I never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4" hose to the vac it w=
as
>> better but too late too much air got in. Yes I turned the adjuster to cl=
ear
>> the pads as I do understand how to adjust that screw. Although when I ge=
t
>> 1. If I remove these drivers pads & the spring parts and put the drum
>> back on and wheel to roll her what could happen if I press the brake ped=
dle
>> will I brake anything? Will the calipers up front and rear passengers pa=
ds
>> stop the car so I can use engine power to move it and not hurt my back?
>>
>> several sizes as per engine size & I did not install these but I do have=
 an
>> upgraded 1275 and front disc brakes so I'm assuming they are for 1275 (s=
ee
>> pics attached).
>>
>> 3. The front calipers are making the front wheels tight to rotate but
>> with wheels on I can rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to inspect as I
>> recall doing this before with my Spitfire back in the day and I press th=
e
>> pads in to get back on the disc.
>>
>>> First, using your =E2=80=9Coh so shitty=E2=80=99 Mityvac, you did put s=
ome grease around
>>> the nipple being bled right?  It=E2=80=99s important as air will come i=
n through
>>> the threads.  In fact air coming in is most likely from there or from t=
he
>>> master if you ran out of fluid.  I haven=E2=80=99t had much luck with M=
ityvacs
>>> Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the wheel you are putting back
>>> on needs to be all the way in, second getting the shoes aligned perfect=
ly
>>> to get the drum back on takes a little fiddling, if there is rust on th=
e
>>> edge of the drum (where it first contacts the shoes going on ) that won=
=E2=80=99t
>>> help things.
>>> which seems to be my biggest problem being "defeated" when working on a=
ny
>>> While I'm waiting for my parts to be built from Gerard I wanted to get
>>> my Spridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus out of the gara=
ge
>>> and in turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older brother as he w=
ill
>>> be leaving in 8 days for his cross country Harley Davidson trip to our
>>> family in California. Below is my hell with brake bleeding.
>>>
>>> that), I kept getting air coming from the bleeder and hose to the Mityv=
ac
>>> drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it was clear. Then I went to t=
he
>>> passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I got Pinky in 2006) =
and
>>> it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers front caliper. When I w=
as
>>> done with the messy job with continuous filling of the MC I still didn'=
t
>>> have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that before I started, (yes d=
on't
>>> fix what is not broken).
>>>
>>> I went to the store got new hose 1/4" clear as I suspected my hose woul=
d
>>> not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I decided to blee=
d
>>> peddle hold peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It w=
as a
>>> which now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. I was un=
able
>>> I cleaned everything up after returning to using the stupid Mityvac
the
>>> pads aren't lining up to get the drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel
>>> puller to remove the drum (with now leaky cylinder) in the first place.
>>> After tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of alignm=
ent
>>> to get the drum on the spring popped out (long spring has a spring coil=
 on
>>> ether side and length of of rod separating both half's). I got so fed u=
p
>>> last night I just cleaned up and hope for some advice.
>>>
>>> Questions:
>>> 1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum
>>> back on then the rear wheel so I can push the car without breaking
>>> anything? I'll assume yes.
>>>
>>> locally fast to replace the leaker as a temporary fix while waiting for=
 the
>>> Thanks guys for all your continued support I really want to succeed wit=
h
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>

--000000000000565de3058c78089e
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I feel bad for you, doing all this work and not having muc=
h success. There is only so much of the learning process you can accept bef=
ore you give up and buy a Toyota. ;-(<div><br></div><div>The best brake job=
 is to do it all, and do it right. You should wait until you have a new or =
properly rebuilt MC, a new or rebuilt proportioning valve (often forgotten)=
, new front calipers, new rear wheel cylinders, new flex hoses, and the pro=
per pads, shoes, rotors and drums (which I would also buy new). And a brand=
 new bottle of brake fluid (discussed at length, earlier).=C2=A0</div><div>=
<br></div><div>Lay them all out on a sheet or drop cloth to keep them clean=
. Then get to work, and clean as you go. Start at the front and work your w=
ay thru the system to the rear. Bleed the brakes only after everything else=
 is replaced and in bristol fashion.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>I hope =
your driveway is level. Spridgets don&#39;t weigh much. Get your brother to=
 help you push the car to a safe place so you can access the garage stuff, =
then push it back into the garage and Bob&#39;s your uncle. If you are on a=
 hill, this may not work. You may need a winch...or AAA.=C2=A0<br clear=3D"=
all"><div><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmai=
l_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div><br></div><di=
v>You will feel better about the job if you have everything ready to go and=
 can complete it in the proper steps. One more thing, buy a cheep cube &#39=
;fridge for the garage and stock it with Guinness. Just one stout after wor=
king hard on an LBC will make you feel good about yourself.</div><div><br><=
/div><div>Allen Hefner</div>
<div>Norristown, PA</div><div>Sun City Center, FL</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div><em>Current:</em></div>
<div>2016 Subaru outback somewhere</div><div>2006 Chebbie</div>
<div><em>Former:</em></div>
<div>1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series III</div>
<div>1967 Triumph TR4A IRS</div>
<div>1964 VW Type I</div>
<div>1967 VW Type II</div>
<div>1967 Rover 2000TC</div>
<div>1977 MG Midget (Sniff!)</div></div></div></div></div></div></div><br><=
/div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_a=
ttr">On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 8:50 AM Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; w=
rote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0p=
x 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=
=3D"ltr">Mike,<div>That makes a lot of sense, what size is that cap and are=
 they standard?=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Now I see why I have all tha=
t air and blew out that wheel cylinder, I had the drum off when I bleed it.=
 Whoops getting back to the books and school of hard knocks. What a mistake=
 I made.<div>Linda</div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=
=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 10:27 AM Mike Myers &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">mdmyersct@gmail=
.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"mar=
gin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1=
ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Lin,</div><di=
v dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">If you press on the brake pedal wi=
th the shoes and springs missing that wheel cylinder will have no resistanc=
e and the piston may blow out past the seal. You may want to disconnect bra=
ke line from that cylinder and cap it off so pressure will build up to the =
other wheels and give you some brakes to move it around=C2=A0</div><div dir=
=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Mike Myers</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On=
 Jun 28, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets &lt;<a href=3D"ma=
ilto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</=
a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div =
dir=3D"ltr">Yes, yes and yes, Lester, I tried everything on the hoses to th=
e Mityvac pump and I never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4&quot; hose to =
the vac it was better but too late too much air got in. Yes I turned the ad=
juster to clear the pads as I do understand how to adjust that screw. Altho=
ugh when I get all my new parts I&#39;ll require a list to learn that adjus=
tment.<div><br></div><div>Three new questions:<div><br></div><div>1. If I r=
emove these drivers pads &amp; the spring parts and put the drum back on an=
d wheel to roll her what could happen if I press the brake peddle will I br=
ake anything? Will the calipers up front and rear passengers pads stop the =
car so I can use engine power to move it and not hurt my back?</div><div><b=
r></div><div>2. How do I know what size this wheel cylinder is to buy anoth=
er for temporary use till Gerard&#39;s parts arrive? Victoria British catal=
og lists several sizes as per engine size &amp; I did not install these but=
 I do have an upgraded 1275 and front disc brakes so I&#39;m assuming they =
are for 1275 (see pics attached).=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>3. The fro=
nt calipers are making the front wheels tight to rotate but with wheels on =
I can rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to inspect as I recall doing this be=
fore with my Spitfire back in the day and I press the pads in to get back o=
n the disc.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Again thanks for all your=C2=A0h=
elp Lester and to all the List,</div><div>Linda</div><div><br></div><div><b=
r><div><br></div><div><br></div></div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_q=
uote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 8:51 AM=
 JMFangio &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">o=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,20=
4);padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word;">First, using=
 your =E2=80=9Coh so shitty=E2=80=99 Mityvac, you did put some grease aroun=
d the nipple being bled right?=C2=A0 It=E2=80=99s important as air will com=
e in through the threads.=C2=A0 In fact air coming in is most likely from t=
here or from the master if you ran out of fluid.=C2=A0 I haven=E2=80=99t ha=
d much luck with Mityvacs either FWIW.<div><br></div><div>Second, yup, put =
the drum on and roll away.</div><div><br></div><div>Third, just to be sure,=
 the adjuster on the wheel you are putting back on needs to be all the way =
in, second getting the shoes aligned perfectly to get the drum back on take=
s a little fiddling, if there is rust on the edge of the drum (where it fir=
st contacts the shoes going on ) that won=E2=80=99t help things.<br><div><d=
iv><br></div><div>Lastly, the wheel cylinders are inexpensive, get new ones=
.</div><div><br></div><div>Lester</div><div><br></div><div><br><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><div>On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridg=
ets &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">sprid=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br class=3D"gmail-m_83339485541229=
21838gmail-m_-8473239586027171283gmail-m_5877765253755109347Apple-interchan=
ge-newline"><div><div dir=3D"ltr">List,<div>I&#39;m waiting for all new par=
ts from Gerard so that is the good news, yes just be patient Linda. Below s=
tarts my bad news of not being successful which seems to be my biggest prob=
lem being &quot;defeated&quot; when working on any car project especially a=
 Spridget.</div><div><br></div><div>While I&#39;m waiting for my parts to b=
e built from Gerard I wanted to get my Spridget out of the driveway so I ca=
n get the VW bus out of the garage and in turn get my motorcycle out to rid=
e with my older brother as he will be leaving in 8 days for his cross count=
ry Harley Davidson trip to our family in California. Below is my hell with =
brake bleeding.</div><div><br></div><div>I decided to continue bleeding wit=
h the &quot;oh so shitty&quot; Mityvac bleeder device as the brakes were ha=
rd but went to the floor after holding for longer periods of time. I cleane=
d the drums and all the rear parts with Brakcleen and was very happy with t=
he results (I should be grateful for that), I kept getting air coming from =
the bleeder and hose to the Mityvac container which was sucking air and no =
clamp could control it on the drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it w=
as clear. Then I went to the passengers side rear, some air although not as=
 much, then off to the passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc&#39;s whe=
n I got Pinky in 2006) and it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers =
front caliper. When I was done with the messy job with continuous filling o=
f the MC I still didn&#39;t have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that =
before I started, (yes don&#39;t fix what is not broken).=C2=A0</div><div><=
br></div><div>I went to the store got new hose 1/4&quot; clear as I suspect=
ed my hose would not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I de=
cided to bleed the way I was successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of=
 fluid push peddle hold peddle with a 3/4&quot; dowel and then shut off the=
 nipple. It was a sloppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers =
wheel cylinder which now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful fo=
r. I was unable to get the massive amounts of air out of the line now and h=
ave a very squishy peddle.</div><div><br></div><div>I cleaned everything up=
 after returning to using the stupid Mityvac again and now I can&#39;t get =
the drum on the shitty drivers rear wheel as the pads aren&#39;t lining up =
to get the drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel puller to remove the drum=
 (with now leaky cylinder) in the first place. After tapping with my lead h=
ammer on the ads to get some kind of alignment to get the drum on the sprin=
g popped out (long spring has a spring coil on ether side and length of of =
rod separating both half&#39;s). I got so fed up last night I just cleaned =
up and hope for some advice.</div><div><br></div><div>Questions:=C2=A0</div=
back on then the rear wheel so I can push the car without breaking anything=
? I&#39;ll assume yes.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>2. Can I assume the o=
nly way I can get the car to move to the street under it own power and brak=
es is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder locally fast to replace the leak=
er as a temporary fix while waiting for the good parts from Gerard then I c=
an get my LBC into the garage and work through the night when the parts arr=
ive, and get that bike out too.</div><div><br></div><div>3. Was I supposed =
to leave the master cylinder cap off when bleeding or put it back on during=
 the bleeding procedure?</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks guys for all your =
continued support I really want to succeed with this on my own and most imp=
ortantly understand my LBC.</div><div>Linda</div><div>62 California Sprite =
w/front discs &quot;Pinky&quot;</div><div><br></div><div><br clear=3D"all">=
<div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail-m_8333948554122921838=
gmail-m_-8473239586027171283gmail-m_5877765253755109347gmail_signature"><di=
v dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"font-size:small">&quot;Pay if forward&quot; in=
 honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut</span><br></div></div></div></div>
------------------------<br><br><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
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forward&quot; in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut</span><br></div></di=
v>
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--000000000000565de3058c78089e--

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[email-masked]

--===============4498750188127447433==--

---

From: Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2019 10:39:58 -0400

Sorry for the delay but the best part of all this frustration is I'm
understanding much much more and guys I truly appreciate all of this
discussion and yes Chuck it is still flat in my driveway.

My biggest fumble was learning from Gerard that I am NOT supposed to
bleed the rear drum wheel cylinders with the drums OFF. I may have
blown that rear cylinder because I pumped with the drum off, YIKES how
embarrassing. All good I'll get back home on Monday and try again
while I wait for all my parts.

Linda
62 California Spridget "Pinky" with lots of non stock parts for 1962 ; )

On 6/29/19, Allen Hefner <[email-masked]> wrote:
>>> wheel cylinder will have no resistance and the piston may blow out past
>>> the
>>> off so pressure will build up to the other wheels and give you some
>>> brakes
>>> to move it around
>>>
>>> Mike Myers
>>>
>>> back on and wheel to roll her what could happen if I press the brake
>>> peddle
>>> will I brake anything? Will the calipers up front and rear passengers
>>> pads
>>> recall doing this before with my Spitfire back in the day and I press
>>> the
>>>> First, using your “oh so shitty’ Mityvac, you did put some grease
>>>> around
>>>> the nipple being bled right?  It’s important as air will come in
>>>> through
>>>> master if you ran out of fluid.  I haven’t had much luck with Mityvacs
>>>> either FWIW.
>>>>
>>>> on needs to be all the way in, second getting the shoes aligned
>>>> perfectly
>>>> to get the drum back on takes a little fiddling, if there is rust on
>>>> the
>>>> edge of the drum (where it first contacts the shoes going on ) that
>>>> won’t
>>>> help things.
>>>>
>>>> my Spridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus out of the
>>>> garage
>>>> and in turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older brother as he
>>>> will
>>>> passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I got Pinky in 2006)
>>>> and
>>>> have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that before I started, (yes
>>>> don't
>>>> fix what is not broken).
>>>>
>>>> peddle hold peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It
>>>> was a
>>>> which now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. I was
>>>> unable
>>>> again and now I can't get the drum on the shitty drivers rear wheel as
>>>> the
>>>> After tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of
>>>> alignment
>>>> to get the drum on the spring popped out (long spring has a spring coil
>>>> on
>>>> ether side and length of of rod separating both half's). I got so fed
>>>> up
>>>> locally fast to replace the leaker as a temporary fix while waiting for
>>>> the

[email-masked]

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]

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From: Bob Spruck via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2019 20:25:18 -0400

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Linda:

In my humble opinion, you are going through an awful lot of extra 
aggravation, some of which will result in big problems, i.e. pushing the 
brake pedal with the drum off and therefore not containing the expanding 
cylinders. As I recommended a few emails ago, Speed Bleeders do away 
with many of the issues you have been experiencing. Install them, crack 
one open or even all of them at the same time, put a tube on them, catch 
the overflow in a container, open the cap, pump the brake pedal by 
yourself, check occasionally for low level in master cylinder, re-pump 
the pedal, check for crud in the containers, close them back up. Done! 
I've used them on both my '72 Midget for 30 years and my '67 Midget 
vintage race car for almost 30 years. I bled the brakes on the race car 
very frequently, of course. No problems. Almost all the racers I know 
use them because of their reliability, ease of use and effectiveness. As 
you can see, I am a believer! I don't like the idea of pressurizing the 
system more than what happens with a pedal push. I have never heard any 
complaints with Speed Bleeders. They also work on the clutch slave cylinder.

Make sure you look at the diagramsof the orientation of the brake shoes 
and the return springsin your Haynes manual or on line. If the shoes are 
not positioned correctly or the springs are oriented wrong or hooked 
into the wrong hole in the shoe, you'll have major problems. Also make 
sure the adjuster and the two wedges are not worn and are free and 
clear. Use Brake-Clean. Test their operation before you reassemble the 
whole system. The hand brake bracket positioning is also critical.

I do hope you have a Haynes manual or equivalent to help you figure it out.

Remember - your life depends on the brake system working correctly. Good 
luck.

Bob Spruck

On 6/29/2019 8:49 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets wrote:

> Now I see why I have all that air and blew out that wheel cylinder, I 
> had the drum off when I bleed it. Whoops getting back to the books and 
> school of hard knocks. What a mistake I made.
> Linda
>
> On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 10:27 AM Mike Myers <[email-masked] 
>
>     Lin,
>
>     If you press on the brake pedal with the shoes and springs missing
>     that wheel cylinder will have no resistance and the piston may
>     blow out past the seal. You may want to disconnect brake line from
>     that cylinder and cap it off so pressure will build up to the
>     other wheels and give you some brakes to move it around
>
>     Mike Myers
>
>     On Jun 28, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets
>
>>     Yes, yes and yes, Lester, I tried everything on the hoses to the
>>     Mityvac pump and I never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4" hose
>>     to the vac it was better but too late too much air got in. Yes I
>>     turned the adjuster to clear the pads as I do understand how to
>>     adjust that screw. Although when I get all my new parts I'll
>>     require a list to learn that adjustment.
>>
>>     Three new questions:
>>
>>     1. If I remove these drivers pads & the spring parts and put the
>>     drum back on and wheel to roll her what could happen if I press
>>     the brake peddle will I brake anything? Will the calipers up
>>     front and rear passengers pads stop the car so I can use engine
>>     power to move it and not hurt my back?
>>
>>     2. How do I know what size this wheel cylinder is to buy another
>>     for temporary use till Gerard's parts arrive? Victoria British
>>     catalog lists several sizes as per engine size & I did not
>>     install these but I do have an upgraded 1275 and front disc
>>     brakes so I'm assuming they are for 1275 (see pics attached).
>>
>>     3. The front calipers are making the front wheels tight to rotate
>>     but with wheels on I can rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to
>>     inspect as I recall doing this before with my Spitfire back in
>>     the day and I press the pads in to get back on the disc.
>>
>>     On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 8:51 AM JMFangio <[email-masked]
>>
>>         First, using your “oh so shitty’ Mityvac, you did put some
>>         grease around the nipple being bled right? It’s important as
>>         air will come in through the threads.  In fact air coming in
>>         is most likely from there or from the master if you ran out
>>         of fluid.  I haven’t had much luck with Mityvacs either FWIW.
>>
>>         Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the wheel you are
>>         putting back on needs to be all the way in, second getting
>>         the shoes aligned perfectly to get the drum back on takes a
>>         little fiddling, if there is rust on the edge of the drum
>>         (where it first contacts the shoes going on ) that won’t help
>>         things.
>>
>>>         On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets
>>>         wrote:
>>>
>>>         List,
>>>         I'm waiting for all new parts from Gerard so that is the
>>>         good news, yes just be patient Linda. Below starts my bad
>>>         news of not being successful which seems to be my biggest
>>>         problem being "defeated" when working on any car project
>>>         especially a Spridget.
>>>
>>>         While I'm waiting for my parts to be built from Gerard I
>>>         wanted to get my Spridget out of the driveway so I can get
>>>         the VW bus out of the garage and in turn get my motorcycle
>>>         out to ride with my older brother as he will be leaving in 8
>>>         days for his cross country Harley Davidson trip to our
>>>         I decided to continue bleeding with the "oh so shitty"
>>>         Mityvac bleeder device as the brakes were hard but went to
>>>         the floor after holding for longer periods of time. I
>>>         cleaned the drums and all the rear parts with Brakcleen and
>>>         was very happy with the results (I should be grateful for
>>>         that), I kept getting air coming from the bleeder and hose
>>>         to the Mityvac container which was sucking air and no clamp
>>>         could control it on the drivers rear wheel cylinder but at
>>>         least it was clear. Then I went to the passengers side rear,
>>>         some air although not as much, then off to the passenger
>>>         front caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I got Pinky in 2006)
>>>         and it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers front
>>>         caliper. When I was done with the messy job with continuous
>>>         filling of the MC I still didn't have a firm peddle and
>>>         somewhat less firm that before I started, (yes don't fix
>>>         what is not broken).
>>>
>>>         I went to the store got new hose 1/4" clear as I suspected
>>>         my hose would not keep a seal to the container or the brake
>>>         nipple. I decided to bleed the way I was successful with the
>>>         VW bus, a tube in a jar of fluid push peddle hold peddle
>>>         with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It was a
>>>         sloppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers
>>>         wheel cylinder which now I know was bad too so that I should
>>>         be grateful for. I was unable to get the massive amounts of
>>>         air out of the line now and have a very squishy peddle.
>>>
>>>         I cleaned everything up after returning to using the stupid
>>>         Mityvac again and now I can't get the drum on the shitty
>>>         drivers rear wheel as the pads aren't lining up to get the
>>>         drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel puller to remove the
>>>         drum (with now leaky cylinder) in the first place. After
>>>         tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of
>>>         alignment to get the drum on the spring popped out (long
>>>         spring has a spring coil on ether side and length of of rod
>>>         separating both half's). I got so fed up last night I just
>>>         cleaned up and hope for some advice.
>>>
>>>         Questions:
>>>         1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put
>>>         the drum back on then the rear wheel so I can push the car
>>>         without breaking anything? I'll assume yes.
>>>
>>>         2. Can I assume the only way I can get the car to move to
>>>         the street under it own power and brakes is to try and buy a
>>>         rear wheel cylinder locally fast to replace the leaker as a
>>>         temporary fix while waiting for the good parts from Gerard
>>>         then I can get my LBC into the garage and work through the
>>>         night when the parts arrive, and get that bike out too.
>>>
>>>         3. Was I supposed to leave the master cylinder cap off when
>>>         bleeding or put it back on during the bleeding procedure?
>>>
>>>         Thanks guys for all your continued support I really want to
>>>         succeed with this on my own and most importantly understand
>>>         my LBC.
>>>         Linda
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]

--------------32058753C55056E0085878B7
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">Linda:</font></font></p>
    <p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">In my humble opinion, you are
          going through an awful lot of extra aggravation, some of which
          will result in big problems, i.e. pushing the brake pedal with
          the drum off and therefore not containing the expanding
          cylinders. As I recommended a few emails ago, Speed Bleeders
          do away with many of the issues you have been experiencing.
          Install them, crack one open or even all of them at the same
          time, put a tube on them, catch the overflow in a container,
          open the cap, pump the brake pedal by yourself, check
          occasionally for low level in master cylinder, re-pump the
          pedal, check for crud in the containers, close them back up.
          Done! I've used them on both my '72 Midget for 30 years and my
          '67 Midget vintage race car for almost 30 years. I bled the
          brakes on the race car very frequently, of course. No
          problems. Almost all the racers I know use them because of
          their reliability, ease of use and effectiveness. As you can
          see, I am a believer! I don't like the idea of pressurizing
          the system more than what happens with a pedal push. I have
          never heard any complaints with Speed Bleeders. They also work
          on the clutch slave cylinder.</font></font></p>
    <p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">M</font></font><font size="+1"><font
          face="Arial">ake sure you look at the diagrams</font></font><font
        size="+1"><font face="Arial"><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">
            </font></font>of the orientation of the brake shoes and the
          return springs</font></font><font size="+1"><font face="Arial"><font
            size="+1"><font face="Arial"> </font></font><font size="+1"><font
              face="Arial"><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">in your
                  Haynes manual or on line</font></font></font></font>.
          If the shoes are not positioned correctly or the springs are
          oriented wrong or hooked into the wrong hole in the shoe,
          you'll have major problems. Also make sure the adjuster and
          the two wedges are not worn and are free and clear. Use
          Brake-Clean. Test their operation before you reassemble the
          whole system. The hand brake bracket positioning is also
          critical.</font></font></p>
    <p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial"> I do hope you have a Haynes
          manual or equivalent to help you figure it out.</font></font></p>
    <p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">Remember - your life depends
          on the brake system working correctly. Good luck.</font></font></p>
    <p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">Bob Spruck<br>
        </font></font></p>
    <p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial"></font></font>On 6/29/2019
      8:49 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets wrote:<br>
    </p>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAL0QtVdRsMnFqOpaJYO4STavQZcPj=[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">Mike,
        <div>That makes a lot of sense, what size is that cap and are
          they standard? </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Now I see why I have all that air and blew out that wheel
          cylinder, I had the drum off when I bleed it. Whoops getting
          back to the books and school of hard knocks. What a mistake I
          made.
          <div>Linda</div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 10:27
          AM Mike Myers &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]"
            moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div dir="auto">
            <div dir="ltr">Lin,</div>
            <div dir="ltr"><br>
            </div>
            <div dir="ltr">If you press on the brake pedal with the
              shoes and springs missing that wheel cylinder will have no
              resistance and the piston may blow out past the seal. You
              may want to disconnect brake line from that cylinder and
              cap it off so pressure will build up to the other wheels
              and give you some brakes to move it around </div>
            <div dir="ltr"><br>
            </div>
            <div dir="ltr">Mike Myers</div>
            <div dir="ltr"><br>
              On Jun 28, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Linda Grunthaner via
              Spridgets &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
              wrote:<br>
              <br>
            </div>
            <blockquote type="cite">
              <div dir="ltr">
                <div dir="ltr">Yes, yes and yes, Lester, I tried
                  everything on the hoses to the Mityvac pump and I
                  never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4" hose to the
                  vac it was better but too late too much air got in.
                  Yes I turned the adjuster to clear the pads as I do
                  understand how to adjust that screw. Although when I
                  get all my new parts I'll require a list to learn that
                  adjustment.
                  <div><br>
                  </div>
                  <div>Three new questions:
                    <div><br>
                    </div>
                    <div>1. If I remove these drivers pads &amp; the
                      spring parts and put the drum back on and wheel to
                      roll her what could happen if I press the brake
                      peddle will I brake anything? Will the calipers up
                      front and rear passengers pads stop the car so I
                      can use engine power to move it and not hurt my
                      back?</div>
                    <div><br>
                    </div>
                    <div>2. How do I know what size this wheel cylinder
                      is to buy another for temporary use till Gerard's
                      parts arrive? Victoria British catalog lists
                      several sizes as per engine size &amp; I did not
                      install these but I do have an upgraded 1275 and
                      front disc brakes so I'm assuming they are for
                      1275 (see pics attached). </div>
                    <div><br>
                    </div>
                    <div>3. The front calipers are making the front
                      wheels tight to rotate but with wheels on I can
                      rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to inspect as I
                      recall doing this before with my Spitfire back in
                      the day and I press the pads in to get back on the
                      disc. </div>
                    <div><br>
                    </div>
                    <div>Again thanks for all your help Lester and to
                      all the List,</div>
                    <div>Linda</div>
                    <div><br>
                    </div>
                    <div><br>
                      <div><br>
                      </div>
                      <div><br>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                  </div>
                </div>
                <br>
                <div class="gmail_quote">
                  <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Jun 28, 2019
                    at 8:51 AM JMFangio &lt;<a
                      href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                      target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                    wrote:<br>
                  </div>
                  <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px
                    0px
0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
                    <div
                      style="word-wrap:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">First,
                      using your “oh so shitty’ Mityvac, you did put
                      some grease around the nipple being bled right? 
                      It’s important as air will come in through the
                      threads.  In fact air coming in is most likely
                      from there or from the master if you ran out of
                      fluid.  I haven’t had much luck with Mityvacs
                      either FWIW.
                      <div><br>
                      </div>
                      <div>Second, yup, put the drum on and roll away.</div>
                      <div><br>
                      </div>
                      <div>Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the
                        wheel you are putting back on needs to be all
                        the way in, second getting the shoes aligned
                        perfectly to get the drum back on takes a little
                        fiddling, if there is rust on the edge of the
                        drum (where it first contacts the shoes going on
                        ) that won’t help things.<br>
                        <div>
                          <div><br>
                          </div>
                          <div>Lastly, the wheel cylinders are
                            inexpensive, get new ones.</div>
                          <div><br>
                          </div>
                          <div>Lester</div>
                          <div><br>
                          </div>
                          <div><br>
                            <blockquote type="cite">
                              <div>On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda
                                Grunthaner via Spridgets &lt;<a
                                  href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                                  target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                                wrote:</div>
                              <br
class="gmail-m_-8473239586027171283gmail-m_5877765253755109347Apple-interchange-newline">
                              <div>
                                <div dir="ltr">List,
                                  <div>I'm waiting for all new parts
                                    from Gerard so that is the good
                                    news, yes just be patient Linda.
                                    Below starts my bad news of not
                                    being successful which seems to be
                                    my biggest problem being "defeated"
                                    when working on any car project
                                    especially a Spridget.</div>
                                  <div><br>
                                  </div>
                                  <div>While I'm waiting for my parts to
                                    be built from Gerard I wanted to get
                                    my Spridget out of the driveway so I
                                    can get the VW bus out of the garage
                                    and in turn get my motorcycle out to
                                    ride with my older brother as he
                                    will be leaving in 8 days for his
                                    cross country Harley Davidson trip
                                    to our family in California. Below
                                    is my hell with brake bleeding.</div>
                                  <div><br>
                                  </div>
                                  <div>I decided to continue bleeding
                                    with the "oh so shitty" Mityvac
                                    bleeder device as the brakes were
                                    hard but went to the floor after
                                    holding for longer periods of time.
                                    I cleaned the drums and all the rear
                                    parts with Brakcleen and was very
                                    happy with the results (I should be
                                    grateful for that), I kept getting
                                    air coming from the bleeder and hose
                                    to the Mityvac container which was
                                    sucking air and no clamp could
                                    control it on the drivers rear wheel
                                    cylinder but at least it was clear.
                                    Then I went to the passengers side
                                    rear, some air although not as much,
                                    then off to the passenger front
                                    caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I
                                    got Pinky in 2006) and it seemed
                                    nice and air free then to the
                                    drivers front caliper. When I was
                                    done with the messy job with
                                    continuous filling of the MC I still
                                    didn't have a firm peddle and
                                    somewhat less firm that before I
                                    started, (yes don't fix what is not
                                    broken). </div>
                                  <div><br>
                                  </div>
                                  <div>I went to the store got new hose
                                    1/4" clear as I suspected my hose
                                    would not keep a seal to the
                                    container or the brake nipple. I
                                    decided to bleed the way I was
                                    successful with the VW bus, a tube
                                    in a jar of fluid push peddle hold
                                    peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then
                                    shut off the nipple. It was a sloppy
                                    nightmare as I saw fluid trickle
                                    from the drivers wheel cylinder
                                    which now I know was bad too so that
                                    I should be grateful for. I was
                                    unable to get the massive amounts of
                                    air out of the line now and have a
                                    very squishy peddle.</div>
                                  <div><br>
                                  </div>
                                  <div>I cleaned everything up after
                                    returning to using the stupid
                                    Mityvac again and now I can't get
                                    the drum on the shitty drivers rear
                                    wheel as the pads aren't lining up
                                    to get the drum on it. Note: I had
                                    to use a wheel puller to remove the
                                    drum (with now leaky cylinder) in
                                    the first place. After tapping with
                                    my lead hammer on the ads to get
                                    some kind of alignment to get the
                                    drum on the spring popped out (long
                                    spring has a spring coil on ether
                                    side and length of of rod separating
                                    both half's). I got so fed up last
                                    night I just cleaned up and hope for
                                    some advice.</div>
                                  <div><br>
                                  </div>
                                  <div>Questions: </div>
                                  <div>1. Can I remove the drum pads
                                    from the shitty wheel and put the
                                    drum back on then the rear wheel so
                                    I can push the car without breaking
                                    anything? I'll assume yes. </div>
                                  <div><br>
                                  </div>
                                  <div>2. Can I assume the only way I
                                    can get the car to move to the
                                    street under it own power and brakes
                                    is to try and buy a rear wheel
                                    cylinder locally fast to replace the
                                    leaker as a temporary fix while
                                    waiting for the good parts from
                                    Gerard then I can get my LBC into
                                    the garage and work through the
                                    night when the parts arrive, and get
                                    that bike out too.</div>
                                  <div><br>
                                  </div>
                                  <div>3. Was I supposed to leave the
                                    master cylinder cap off when
                                    bleeding or put it back on during
                                    the bleeding procedure?</div>
                                  <div><br>
                                  </div>
                                  <div>Thanks guys for all your
                                    continued support I really want to
                                    succeed with this on my own and most
                                    importantly understand my LBC.</div>
                                  <div>Linda</div>
                                  <div>62 California Sprite w/front
                                    discs "Pinky"</div>
                                  <div><br>
                                  </div>
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                                    <div><br>
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            <blockquote type="cite">
              <div dir="ltr">&lt;IMG_1589.JPG&gt;</div>
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              <div dir="ltr">&lt;IMG_1590.JPG&gt;</div>
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              <div dir="ltr"><span>------------------------</span><br>
                <span></span><br>
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      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">------------------------

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