Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed From Hell Yesterday!

From: Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 08:37:03 -0400

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List,
I'm waiting for all new parts from Gerard so that is the good news, yes
just be patient Linda. Below starts my bad news of not being successful
which seems to be my biggest problem being "defeated" when working on any
car project especially a Spridget.

While I'm waiting for my parts to be built from Gerard I wanted to get my
Spridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus out of the garage and
in turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older brother as he will be
leaving in 8 days for his cross country Harley Davidson trip to our family
in California. Below is my hell with brake bleeding.

I decided to continue bleeding with the "oh so shitty" Mityvac bleeder
device as the brakes were hard but went to the floor after holding for
longer periods of time. I cleaned the drums and all the rear parts with
Brakcleen and was very happy with the results (I should be grateful for
that), I kept getting air coming from the bleeder and hose to the Mityvac
container which was sucking air and no clamp could control it on the
drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it was clear. Then I went to the
passengers side rear, some air although not as much, then off to the
passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I got Pinky in 2006) and
it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers front caliper. When I was
done with the messy job with continuous filling of the MC I still didn't
have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that before I started, (yes don't
fix what is not broken).

I went to the store got new hose 1/4" clear as I suspected my hose would
not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I decided to bleed
the way I was successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of fluid push
peddle hold peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It was a
sloppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers wheel cylinder
which now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. I was unable
to get the massive amounts of air out of the line now and have a very
squishy peddle.

I cleaned everything up after returning to using the stupid Mityvac again
and now I can't get the drum on the shitty drivers rear wheel as the pads
aren't lining up to get the drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel puller
to remove the drum (with now leaky cylinder) in the first place. After
tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of alignment to get
the drum on the spring popped out (long spring has a spring coil on ether
side and length of of rod separating both half's). I got so fed up last
night I just cleaned up and hope for some advice.

Questions:
1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum back
on then the rear wheel so I can push the car without breaking anything?
I'll assume yes.

2. Can I assume the only way I can get the car to move to the street under
it own power and brakes is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder locally
fast to replace the leaker as a temporary fix while waiting for the good
parts from Gerard then I can get my LBC into the garage and work through
the night when the parts arrive, and get that bike out too.

3. Was I supposed to leave the master cylinder cap off when bleeding or put
it back on during the bleeding procedure?

Thanks guys for all your continued support I really want to succeed with
this on my own and most importantly understand my LBC.
Linda
62 California Sprite w/front discs "Pinky"

-- 
"Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut

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<div dir=3D"ltr">List,<div>I&#39;m waiting for all new parts from Gerard so=
 that is the good news, yes just be patient Linda. Below starts my bad news=
 of not being successful which seems to be my biggest problem being &quot;d=
efeated&quot; when working on any car project especially a Spridget.</div><=
div><br></div><div>While I&#39;m waiting for my parts to be built from Gera=
rd I wanted to get my Spridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus =
out of the garage and in turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older b=
rother as he will be leaving in 8 days for his cross country Harley Davidso=
n trip to our family in California. Below is my hell with brake bleeding.</=
div><div><br></div><div>I decided to continue bleeding with the &quot;oh so=
 shitty&quot; Mityvac bleeder device as the brakes were hard but went to th=
e floor after holding for longer periods of time. I cleaned the drums and a=
ll the rear parts with Brakcleen and was very happy with the results (I sho=
uld be grateful for that), I kept getting air coming from the bleeder and h=
ose to the Mityvac container which was sucking air and no clamp could contr=
ol it on the drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it was clear. Then I =
went to the passengers side rear, some air although not as much, then off t=
o the passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc&#39;s when I got Pinky in =
2006) and it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers front caliper. Wh=
en I was done with the messy job with continuous filling of the MC I still =
didn&#39;t have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that before I started,=
 (yes don&#39;t fix what is not broken).=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>I w=
ent to the store got new hose 1/4&quot; clear as I suspected my hose would =
not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I decided to bleed th=
e way I was successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of fluid push peddl=
e hold peddle with a 3/4&quot; dowel and then shut off the nipple. It was a=
 sloppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers wheel cylinder wh=
ich now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. I was unable t=
o get the massive amounts of air out of the line now and have a very squish=
y peddle.</div><div><br></div><div>I cleaned everything up after returning =
to using the stupid Mityvac again and now I can&#39;t get the drum on the s=
hitty drivers rear wheel as the pads aren&#39;t lining up to get the drum o=
n it. Note: I had to use a wheel puller to remove the drum (with now leaky =
cylinder) in the first place. After tapping with my lead hammer on the ads =
to get some kind of alignment to get the drum on the spring popped out (lon=
g spring has a spring coil on ether side and length of of rod separating bo=
th half&#39;s). I got so fed up last night I just cleaned up and hope for s=
ome advice.</div><div><br></div><div>Questions:=C2=A0</div><div>1. Can I re=
move the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum back on then the =
rear wheel so I can push the car without breaking anything? I&#39;ll assume=
 yes.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>2. Can I assume the only way I can get=
 the car to move to the street under it own power and brakes is to try and =
buy a rear wheel cylinder locally fast to replace the leaker as a temporary=
 fix while waiting for the good parts from Gerard then I can get my LBC int=
o the garage and work through the night when the parts arrive, and get that=
 bike out too.</div><div><br></div><div>3. Was I supposed to leave the mast=
er cylinder cap off when bleeding or put it back on during the bleeding pro=
cedure?</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks guys for all your continued support=
 I really want to succeed with this on my own and most importantly understa=
nd my LBC.</div><div>Linda</div><div>62 California Sprite w/front discs &qu=
ot;Pinky&quot;</div><div><br></div><div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>--=
 <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_sig=
nature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"font-size:small">&quot;Pay if forwa=
rd&quot; in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut</span><br></div></div></d=
iv></div>

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