Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Kill Switches

From: Rick Fisk via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 14 May 2016 10:47:29 -0400

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Don't know the answer to your kill switch question as I've never used one.

The green-knob switch on the negative battery terminal isn't intended to be u=
sed as a kill switch.  But it works perfectly as a battery isolator.  When y=
ou open the switch it does leave the entire positive system of the car conne=
cted, but NOT hot.  With the negative side of the battery disconnected there=
 is no voltage anywhere.  Doesn't matter that all of the positive stuff is s=
till connected. =20

You might want to think about finding a new mechanic.  :-)

Rick

Sent from my keyboard

> On May 14, 2016, at 10:09 AM, mdrowe via Spridgets <[email-masked]=
et> wrote:
>=20
> I have been doing a lot of reading on kill switches.  My mechanic/tutor (w=
ho is never, ever, ever, wrong) insists that they should be on the ground wi=
re, which is how they are done on race cars.  This may be OK if there is no a=
lternator, but will not kill a running engine with alternator.  It just runs=
 on, finding a ground for the alternator output somewhere else.  More import=
ant, disconnecting the battery ground on a running engine can cause a voltag=
e spike that apparently can fry the alternator.  A properly-wired kill switc=
h is on the positive terminal and has a 3 ohm/11 watt resistor to ground to p=
revent this.  Pegasus Racing has detailed instructions.  I may already have d=
amaged mine before I learned the proper way to wire it.  Time will tell.
> =20
> This brings up another question:  People put the green-knob battery switch=
 on the negative terminal.  This not only has the same run-on, fried alterna=
tor problem, but also leaves the entire positive system of the car hot.  Sin=
ce there are grounds all over the car body,  I think that means we can get a=
rching to the body pretty much anywhere.  If the positive terminal is discon=
nected, there is no power anywhere, as nothing will come out of the ground s=
ide, regardless.
> =20
> What say you all?
> =20
> BTW, after two years of struggling to start the new engine put together by=
 my mechanic/tutor (yes, the same one), it developed that the cam was instal=
led 18 degrees advanced.  It started right up when corrected to five degrees=
 advance, as specified.  Of course, after sitting for two years without runn=
ing, every gasket on the engine leaked.  It has been a long two years.
> =20
> Michael Rowe
> The Holy Sprite
> =20
> ------------------------
>=20
> [email-masked]
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>=20
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@chartermi.net

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<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>Don't know the answer to your kill switch question as I've never used one.</div><div><br></div><div>The green-knob switch on the negative battery terminal isn't intended to be used as a kill switch. &nbsp;But it works perfectly as a battery isolator. &nbsp;When you open the switch it does leave the entire positive system of the car connected, but NOT hot. &nbsp;With the negative side of the battery disconnected there is no voltage anywhere. &nbsp;Doesn't matter that all of the positive stuff is still connected. &nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>You might want to think about finding a new mechanic. &nbsp;:-)</div><div><br></div><div>Rick<br><br>Sent from my keyboard</div><div><br>On May 14, 2016, at 10:09 AM, mdrowe via Spridgets &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
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<div>I have been doing a lot of reading on kill switches.&nbsp; My mechanic/tutor (who is never, ever, ever,&nbsp;wrong) insists that they should be on the ground wire, which is how they are done on race cars.&nbsp; This may be OK if there is no alternator, but will not kill a running engine with alternator.&nbsp; It just runs on, finding a ground for the alternator output somewhere else.&nbsp; More important,&nbsp;disconnecting the battery ground on a running engine can cause a voltage spike that apparently&nbsp;can&nbsp;fry the alternator.&nbsp; A properly-wired kill switch is on the positive terminal and&nbsp;has a 3 ohm/11 watt resistor to ground&nbsp;to prevent this.&nbsp; Pegasus Racing has detailed instructions.&nbsp; I may already have damaged mine before I learned the proper way to wire it.&nbsp; Time will tell.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>This brings up another question:&nbsp; People put the green-knob battery switch on the negative terminal.&nbsp; This not only has the same run-on, fried alternator problem, but also leaves the entire positive system of the car hot.&nbsp; Since there are grounds all over the car body,&nbsp; I think that means we can get arching to the body pretty much anywhere.&nbsp; If the positive terminal is disconnected, there is no power anywhere, as nothing will come out of the ground side, regardless.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>What say you all?</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>BTW,&nbsp;after two years of struggling to start the new engine put together by my mechanic/tutor (yes, the same one), it developed that the cam was installed 18 degrees advanced.&nbsp; It started right up when corrected to five degrees advance, as specified.&nbsp; Of course, after sitting for two years without running, every gasket on the engine leaked.&nbsp; It has been a long two years.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Michael Rowe</div>
<div>The Holy Sprite</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><div><span>------------------------</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation: $12.75</span><br><span></span><br><span>Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span>Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]</a></span><br></div></blockquote></body></html>
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From: Ron Soave via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 14 May 2016 10:32:18 -0500

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Hi Mike,
Yes, disconnect the positive. The Pegasus switch - yes as well. I run an alt=
ernator and was shocked (pun intended) to hit my kill switch with ignition r=
unning and find car still ran. Proper kill switch fixed it wiring was clear i=
n instructions.=20

Good luck,

Ron Soave

> On May 14, 2016, at 9:09 AM, mdrowe via Spridgets <[email-masked]=
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soaver=
[email-masked]

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<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>Hi Mike,</div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Yes, disconnect the positive. The Pegasus switch - yes as well. I run an alternator and was shocked (pun intended) to hit my kill switch with ignition running and find car still ran. Proper kill switch fixed it wiring was clear in instructions.&nbsp;</div><div id="AppleMailSignature"><br></div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Good luck,<br><br>Ron Soave</div><div><br>On May 14, 2016, at 9:09 AM, mdrowe via Spridgets &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
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<div>I have been doing a lot of reading on kill switches.&nbsp; My mechanic/tutor (who is never, ever, ever,&nbsp;wrong) insists that they should be on the ground wire, which is how they are done on race cars.&nbsp; This may be OK if there is no alternator, but will not kill a running engine with alternator.&nbsp; It just runs on, finding a ground for the alternator output somewhere else.&nbsp; More important,&nbsp;disconnecting the battery ground on a running engine can cause a voltage spike that apparently&nbsp;can&nbsp;fry the alternator.&nbsp; A properly-wired kill switch is on the positive terminal and&nbsp;has a 3 ohm/11 watt resistor to ground&nbsp;to prevent this.&nbsp; Pegasus Racing has detailed instructions.&nbsp; I may already have damaged mine before I learned the proper way to wire it.&nbsp; Time will tell.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>This brings up another question:&nbsp; People put the green-knob battery switch on the negative terminal.&nbsp; This not only has the same run-on, fried alternator problem, but also leaves the entire positive system of the car hot.&nbsp; Since there are grounds all over the car body,&nbsp; I think that means we can get arching to the body pretty much anywhere.&nbsp; If the positive terminal is disconnected, there is no power anywhere, as nothing will come out of the ground side, regardless.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>What say you all?</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>BTW,&nbsp;after two years of struggling to start the new engine put together by my mechanic/tutor (yes, the same one), it developed that the cam was installed 18 degrees advanced.&nbsp; It started right up when corrected to five degrees advance, as specified.&nbsp; Of course, after sitting for two years without running, every gasket on the engine leaked.&nbsp; It has been a long two years.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Michael Rowe</div>
<div>The Holy Sprite</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><div><span>------------------------</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation: $12.75</span><br><span></span><br><span>Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span>Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]</a></span><br></div></blockquote></body></html>
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