Subject: [Spridgets] Kill Switches

From: mdrowe via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 14 May 2016 14:09:42 +0000

--===============4666869227490573967==
 boundary="Boundary_(ID_dcS0vE5LHpSmuKtmLbH3+w)"

--Boundary_(ID_dcS0vE5LHpSmuKtmLbH3+w)
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

I have been doing a lot of reading on kill switches.  My mechanic/tutor 
(who is never, ever, ever, wrong) insists that they should be on the 
ground wire, which is how they are done on race cars.  This may be OK if 
there is no alternator, but will not kill a running engine with 
alternator.  It just runs on, finding a ground for the alternator output 
somewhere else.  More important, disconnecting the battery ground on a 
running engine can cause a voltage spike that apparently can fry the 
alternator.  A properly-wired kill switch is on the positive terminal 
and has a 3 ohm/11 watt resistor to ground to prevent this.  Pegasus 
Racing has detailed instructions.  I may already have damaged mine 
before I learned the proper way to wire it.  Time will tell.

This brings up another question:  People put the green-knob battery 
switch on the negative terminal.  This not only has the same run-on, 
fried alternator problem, but also leaves the entire positive system of 
the car hot.  Since there are grounds all over the car body,  I think 
that means we can get arching to the body pretty much anywhere.  If the 
positive terminal is disconnected, there is no power anywhere, as 
nothing will come out of the ground side, regardless.

What say you all?

BTW, after two years of struggling to start the new engine put together 
by my mechanic/tutor (yes, the same one), it developed that the cam was 
installed 18 degrees advanced.  It started right up when corrected to 
five degrees advance, as specified.  Of course, after sitting for two 
years without running, every gasket on the engine leaked.  It has been a 
long two years.

Michael Rowe
The Holy Sprite

--Boundary_(ID_dcS0vE5LHpSmuKtmLbH3+w)
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

<HTML><HEAD>
<STYLE id=eMClientCss>
blockquote.cite { margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 0px; padding-left: 10px; padding-right:0px; border-left: 1px solid #cccccc }
blockquote.cite2 {margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 0px; padding-left: 10px; padding-right:0px; border-left: 1px solid #cccccc; margin-top: 3px; padding-top: 0px; }
.plain pre, .plain tt { font-family: monospace; font-size: 100%; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal;}
a img { border: 0px; }body {font-family: Tahoma;font-size: 12pt;}
.plain pre, .plain tt {font-family: Tahoma;font-size: 12pt;}</STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV>I have been doing a lot of reading on kill switches.&nbsp; My mechanic/tutor (who is never, ever, ever,&nbsp;wrong) insists that they should be on the ground wire, which is how they are done on race cars.&nbsp; This may be OK if there is no alternator, but will not kill a running engine with alternator.&nbsp; It just runs on, finding a ground for the alternator output somewhere else.&nbsp; More important,&nbsp;disconnecting the battery ground on a running engine can cause a voltage spike that apparently&nbsp;can&nbsp;fry the alternator.&nbsp; A properly-wired kill switch is on the positive terminal and&nbsp;has a 3 ohm/11 watt resistor to ground&nbsp;to prevent this.&nbsp; Pegasus Racing has detailed instructions.&nbsp; I may already have damaged mine before I learned the proper way to wire it.&nbsp; Time will tell.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>This brings up another question:&nbsp; People put the green-knob battery switch on the negative terminal.&nbsp; This not only has the same run-on, fried alternator problem, but also leaves the entire positive system of the car hot.&nbsp; Since there are grounds all over the car body,&nbsp; I think that means we can get arching to the body pretty much anywhere.&nbsp; If the positive terminal is disconnected, there is no power anywhere, as nothing will come out of the ground side, regardless.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>What say you all?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>BTW,&nbsp;after two years of struggling to start the new engine put together by my mechanic/tutor (yes, the same one), it developed that the cam was installed 18 degrees advanced.&nbsp; It started right up when corrected to five degrees advance, as specified.&nbsp; Of course, after sitting for two years without running, every gasket on the engine leaked.&nbsp; It has been a long two years.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Michael Rowe</DIV>
<DIV>The Holy Sprite</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

--Boundary_(ID_dcS0vE5LHpSmuKtmLbH3+w)--

--===============4666869227490573967==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

------------------------

[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

--===============4666869227490573967==--

---

From: WeslakeMonza1330--- via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 14 May 2016 18:03:16 -0400

--===============4690494788427896270==

--part1_8ca2f3.74a782fc.4468faa4_boundary
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

It's time to find a new mechanic/tutor because he is wrong.  
 
Any car, including any racing car, may be positive earth or negative  
earth.  Irrespective of which terminal is earth you need to wire the kill  switch 
on the live.  You also need a proper FIA kill switch which you wire  the 
ignition through otherwise you don't have a kill switch you have a battery  
master switch which won't kill the engine if the car has an alternator or  
dynamo.  Yep, no resistor in the kill switch circuit and you fry the  
alternator rectifier dioide pack - none of us ever does that twice.
 
Regards
 
Daniel

In a message dated 14/05/2016 15:22:18 GMT Daylight Time,  
[email-masked] writes:

I have  been doing a lot of reading on kill switches.  My mechanic/tutor 
(who is  never, ever, ever, wrong) insists that they should be on the ground 
wire,  which is how they are done on race cars.  

--part1_8ca2f3.74a782fc.4468faa4_boundary
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUS-ASCII" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 11.00.9600.18315"></HEAD>
<BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR:=
 #000000"=20
bottomMargin=3D7 leftMargin=3D7 rightMargin=3D7 topMargin=3D7><FONT id=3Dr=
ole_document=20
color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3DArial>
<DIV>It's time to find a new mechanic/tutor because he is wrong.&nbsp; </D=
IV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Any car, including any racing car, may be positive earth or negative=
=20
earth.&nbsp; Irrespective of which terminal is earth you need to wire the=
 kill=20
switch on the live.&nbsp; You also need a proper FIA kill switch which you=
 wire=20
the ignition through otherwise you don't have a kill switch you have a bat=
tery=20
master switch which won't kill the engine if the car has an alternator or=
=20
dynamo.&nbsp; Yep, no resistor in the kill switch circuit and you fry the=
=20
alternator rectifier dioide pack - none of us ever does that twice.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Regards</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Daniel</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 14/05/2016 15:22:18 GMT Daylight Time,=20
[email-masked] writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"=
><FONT=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#000000 size=3D3 face=3D=
Tahoma>I have=20
  been doing a lot of reading on kill switches.&nbsp; My mechanic/tutor (w=
ho is=20
  never, ever, ever,&nbsp;wrong) insists that they should be on the ground=
 wire,=20
  which is how they are done on race cars.&nbsp;=20
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>
--part1_8ca2f3.74a782fc.4468faa4_boundary--

--===============4690494788427896270==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

------------------------

[email-masked]

--===============4690494788427896270==--