Subject: [Spridgets] Spridget rear axle

From: Mike Rambour via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2015 11:56:02 -0700

Since I put in a 1098 motor/gearbox into my Singer, I am considering 
going from a Singer rear axle to a Spridget rear axle to improve freeway 
speeds.

  The Singer rear is 5.25 ratio and I have  4.22 Spridget rear sitting 
around, I also am thinking of a 3.9 if I can find one.

  So, I found a article written by someone (who am I trying to contact 
via snail mail) that says the BMC/MOWOG A-series diff carrier will fit 
into a Singer housing with both housings having the same number of bolts 
and PCD.  The machining to make it fit is super minor, just a few 
thousands taken off the carrier diameter where it slides into the 
housing OR opening up the Singer housing those few thou.

  The confusing part for me is the next statement "The number of splines 
is different between the 2 makes of axles, the axles can be cut and the 
MOWOG splined end joined to the Singer part with the flange"  This 
implies to me cutting and welding the axles which may increase the 
chances of breaking axles.

  What I was hoping to do when I started this project was find Spridget 
wire wheel axles and cut new splines into them but I now think they may 
be too short for that, the Sprite axles are going to only be a tiny bit 
longer (exact difference is unknown to me at this time) and that may be 
why he is suggesting cutting and welding.   My experience with welded 
axles is not good but I have to admit that the welds were done back in 
the 1960's by some backyard welder on a previous car, perhaps a pro 
would be fine.  Another thought would be to take both axles to a shop 
and $pend lot$ of money to have new axles made with Singer ends on one 
end and Sprite on the other, these would be much stronger but since I am 
only fitting a 1098 I think its overkill.  I am also concerned that 
assuming I can cut new splines in the Sprite axles the other end might 
not fit/work, I don't know how the bearing carrier, etc. attaches so 
perhaps as I type this, maybe welding is better.

  My goal is to use the original Singer rear axle housing and the 
original back plates so I do not have to switch brake parts, I spent a 
HUGE amount of money on new finned aluminum brake drums as per the 
originals and if I swapped axle housings, I would end up with Sprite 
brakes, trying to stay original looking and besides I don't want to 
throw away the rather large sum of cash I spent on the new brake drums.  
I did consider using a Spridget rear housing also as the rear wheel 
track is only 1/4" different between the 2 cars but the axle housing are 
several inches different and then the back plate issues made it difficult.

  Luckily I do have 2 spare Singer axle shafts sitting out of the car to 
measure and play with but no Sprite axle shafts.

  My ultimate goal is to make this 1934 Singer Le Mans my daily driver 
so I am swapping out the old (beyond rebuild block) motor and putting in 
Spridget components, I only have to drive 7 miles to work, 5.5 of those 
on the freeway or if not feasible stay on city streets and I will not be 
getting rid of my motorcycle for rainy days and when the Singer is not 
running, so not everyday daily driver.

     mike
------------------------

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "rrengineer.mike via Spridgets" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2015 13:45:52 -0700

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From: HealeyRick via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2015 21:56:30 -0400

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Mike,

Not sure if this is any help.  If you replace the Singer diff with the
Sprite one, you can adjust the length of the Sprite wire wheel axles.  Air
chisel the welch plug from the wire wheel hub and you can press the axle in
or out to suit.  Then replace with a new welch plug or even a rubber ball
to keep the fluid in. Hope this helps

On Wed, Sep 16, 2015 at 2:56 PM, Mike Rambour via Spridgets <
[email-masked]> wrote:

>  So, I found a article written by someone (who am I trying to contact via
> snail mail) that says the BMC/MOWOG A-series diff carrier will fit into a
> Singer housing with both housings having the same number of bolts and PCD.
> The machining to make it fit is super minor, just a few thousands taken off
> the carrier diameter where it slides into the housing OR opening up the
> Singer housing those few thou.
>
>  The confusing part for me is the next statement "The number of splines is
> different between the 2 makes of axles, the axles can be cut and the MOWOG
> splined end joined to the Singer part with the flange"  This implies to me
> cutting and welding the axles which may increase the chances of breaking
> axles.
>
> wire wheel axles and cut new splines into them but I now think they may be
> too short for that, the Sprite axles are going to only be a tiny bit longer
> (exact difference is unknown to me at this time) and that may be why he is
> suggesting cutting and welding.   My experience with welded axles is not
> good but I have to admit that the welds were done back in the 1960's by
> some backyard welder on a previous car, perhaps a pro would be fine.
> Another thought would be to take both axles to a shop and $pend lot$ of
> money to have new axles made with Singer ends on one end and Sprite on the
> other, these would be much stronger but since I am only fitting a 1098 I
> think its overkill.  I am also concerned that assuming I can cut new
> splines in the Sprite axles the other end might not fit/work, I don't know
> how the bearing carrier, etc. attaches so perhaps as I type this, maybe
> welding is better.
>
>  My goal is to use the original Singer rear axle housing and the original
> back plates so I do not have to switch brake parts, I spent a HUGE amount
> of money on new finned aluminum brake drums as per the originals and if I
> swapped axle housings, I would end up with Sprite brakes, trying to stay
> original looking and besides I don't want to throw away the rather large
> sum of cash I spent on the new brake drums.  I did consider using a
> Spridget rear housing also as the rear wheel track is only 1/4" different
> between the 2 cars but the axle housing are several inches different and
> then the back plate issues made it difficult.
>
>  My ultimate goal is to make this 1934 Singer Le Mans my daily driver so I
> am swapping out the old (beyond rebuild block) motor and putting in
> Spridget components, I only have to drive 7 miles to work, 5.5 of those on
> the freeway or if not feasible stay on city streets and I will not be
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Mike,<div><br></div><div>Not sure if this is any help.=C2=
=A0 If you replace the Singer diff with the Sprite one, you can adjust the =
length of the Sprite wire wheel axles.=C2=A0 Air chisel the welch plug from=
 the wire wheel hub and you can press the axle in or out to suit.=C2=A0 The=
n replace with a new welch plug or even a rubber ball to keep the fluid in.=
 Hope this helps</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gm=
ail_quote">On Wed, Sep 16, 2015 at 2:56 PM, Mike Rambour via Spridgets <spa=
n dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_bl=
ank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D=
"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding=
-left:1ex">=C2=A0Since I put in a 1098 motor/gearbox into my Singer, I am c=
onsidering going from a Singer rear axle to a Spridget rear axle to improve=
 freeway speeds.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0The Singer rear is 5.25 ratio and I have=C2=A0 4.22 Spridget rear sit=
ting around, I also am thinking of a 3.9 if I can find one.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0So, I found a article written by someone (who am I trying to contact =
via snail mail) that says the BMC/MOWOG A-series diff carrier will fit into=
 a Singer housing with both housings having the same number of bolts and PC=
D.=C2=A0 The machining to make it fit is super minor, just a few thousands =
taken off the carrier diameter where it slides into the housing OR opening =
up the Singer housing those few thou.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0The confusing part for me is the next statement &quot;The number of s=
plines is different between the 2 makes of axles, the axles can be cut and =
the MOWOG splined end joined to the Singer part with the flange&quot;=C2=A0=
 This implies to me cutting and welding the axles which may increase the ch=
ances of breaking axles.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0What I was hoping to do when I started this project was find Spridget=
 wire wheel axles and cut new splines into them but I now think they may be=
 too short for that, the Sprite axles are going to only be a tiny bit longe=
r (exact difference is unknown to me at this time) and that may be why he i=
s suggesting cutting and welding.=C2=A0 =C2=A0My experience with welded axl=
es is not good but I have to admit that the welds were done back in the 196=
0&#39;s by some backyard welder on a previous car, perhaps a pro would be f=
ine.=C2=A0 Another thought would be to take both axles to a shop and $pend =
lot$ of money to have new axles made with Singer ends on one end and Sprite=
 on the other, these would be much stronger but since I am only fitting a 1=
098 I think its overkill.=C2=A0 I am also concerned that assuming I can cut=
 new splines in the Sprite axles the other end might not fit/work, I don&#3=
9;t know how the bearing carrier, etc. attaches so perhaps as I type this, =
maybe welding is better.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0My goal is to use the original Singer rear axle housing and the origi=
nal back plates so I do not have to switch brake parts, I spent a HUGE amou=
nt of money on new finned aluminum brake drums as per the originals and if =
I swapped axle housings, I would end up with Sprite brakes, trying to stay =
original looking and besides I don&#39;t want to throw away the rather larg=
e sum of cash I spent on the new brake drums.=C2=A0 I did consider using a =
Spridget rear housing also as the rear wheel track is only 1/4&quot; differ=
ent between the 2 cars but the axle housing are several inches different an=
d then the back plate issues made it difficult.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0Luckily I do have 2 spare Singer axle shafts sitting out of the car t=
o measure and play with but no Sprite axle shafts.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0My ultimate goal is to make this 1934 Singer Le Mans my daily driver =
so I am swapping out the old (beyond rebuild block) motor and putting in Sp=
ridget components, I only have to drive 7 miles to work, 5.5 of those on th=
e freeway or if not feasible stay on city streets and I will not be getting=
 rid of my motorcycle for rainy days and when the Singer is not running, so=
 not everyday daily driver.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 mike<br>
------------------------<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">spridgets@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
<br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
ets/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]</a><br>
</blockquote></div><br></div>

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From: Mark Haynes via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2015 13:11:06 GMT

Another option Mike, is to contact Mark Williams Ent. in Louisville, CO. They make 2 piece spridget racing axles, if you gave them the length and diameter along with the bolt pattern from the Singer, I'd bet they could make you a pair of axles with the correct outer flange. They'd 'only' have to recut the length and make a 'special' flange end for you. 
Just another way to skin the cat....

Mark Haynes
It only goes one way-Pay it Forward

From: Mike Rambour <[email-masked]>
To: Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Subject: [Spridgets] Spridget rear axle

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