Subject: [Spridgets] Drum brakes to disc brakes MC question

From: John O'Brien via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2015 15:16:10 -0500

Hi List:
I have a bugeye that I converted to disc brakes years ago.  I never 
changed out the Master cylinder, and it worked okay, but always had a 
hard brake pedal.  I now need to replace or rebuild the Master Cylinder 
due to an issue with the clutch side.  I have looked at a couple of options:
  1. rebuild the current MC (some pitting in the bore that has not honed 
out)  (Cost $12.85 + shipping)
2. buy a new 7/8" bore MC and have it back the way it was (currently on 
sale) Cost $98.95 TRW or $197.95 AP + shipping.
3. Buy a new 3/4" MC from Moss (TRW brand, currently on sale) and 
shorten the push rods  (approx. 36% easier pedal) Cost $229.95 + shipping
4. Send the 7/8" bore MC to Gerard for a rebuild to 3/4" and shorten or 
buy shorter push rods. Cost $325 + shipping both ways
5. Buy a new 7/8" bore MC and add the brake Servo booster Moss sells to 
give more power without having to modify the  pushrods (this option is 
supposed to give about a 2:1 boost to the brakes) Cost $98.95 for the MC 
+ $199.95 for the Servo booster+ shipping and a few pieces of brake line 
to plumb in the servo.

Has anyone on the list done this last option?  If so, how did it turn out?

Any experience with the TRW MC vs. the AP?

Suggestions on the best option?  I'm trying to balance cost vs. the best 
outcome.

Thanks
John O'Brien
'61 Bugeye
'65 BJ8

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Rick Fisk via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2015 16:52:35 -0400

I'd go with option 3.  The TRW master cylinders are fine.

Sent from my keyboard

> On Jul 30, 2015, at 4:16 PM, John O'Brien via Spridgets <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Hi List:
> I have a bugeye that I converted to disc brakes years ago.  I never changed out the Master cylinder, and it worked okay, but always had a hard brake pedal.  I now need to replace or rebuild the Master Cylinder due to an issue with the clutch side.  I have looked at a couple of options:
> 1. rebuild the current MC (some pitting in the bore that has not honed out)  (Cost $12.85 + shipping)
> 2. buy a new 7/8" bore MC and have it back the way it was (currently on sale) Cost $98.95 TRW or $197.95 AP + shipping.
> 3. Buy a new 3/4" MC from Moss (TRW brand, currently on sale) and shorten the push rods  (approx. 36% easier pedal) Cost $229.95 + shipping
> 4. Send the 7/8" bore MC to Gerard for a rebuild to 3/4" and shorten or buy shorter push rods. Cost $325 + shipping both ways
> 5. Buy a new 7/8" bore MC and add the brake Servo booster Moss sells to give more power without having to modify the  pushrods (this option is supposed to give about a 2:1 boost to the brakes) Cost $98.95 for the MC + $199.95 for the Servo booster+ shipping and a few pieces of brake line to plumb in the servo.
> 
> Suggestions on the best option?  I'm trying to balance cost vs. the best outcome.
> 
> Thanks
> John O'Brien
> '61 Bugeye
> '65 BJ8
> 
> 
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From: WeslakeMonza1330--- via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2015 17:44:13 -0400

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If it were me I'd go with option 4.  Option 5 will work but is more  work 
and carries a weight penalty compared to Option 4.

In a message dated 30/07/2015 21:25:01 GMT Daylight Time,  
[email-masked] writes:

Hi  List:
due to an issue with the clutch side.  I have looked at a  couple of 
options:

Thanks
John  O'Brien
'61 Bugeye
'65  BJ8

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<DIV>If it were me I'd go with option 4.&nbsp; Option 5 will work but is=
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<DIV>In a message dated 30/07/2015 21:25:01 GMT Daylight Time,=20
[email-masked] writes:</DIV>
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  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3D=
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  List:<BR>I have a bugeye that I converted to disc brakes years ago.&nbsp=
; I=20
  never <BR>changed out the Master cylinder, and it worked okay, but alway=
s had=20
  a <BR>hard brake pedal.&nbsp; I now need to replace or rebuild the Maste=
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 at a=20
  couple of options:<BR>&nbsp; 1. rebuild the current MC (some pitting in=
 the=20
  bore that has not honed <BR>out)&nbsp; (Cost $12.85 + shipping)<BR>2. bu=
y a=20
  new 7/8" bore MC and have it back the way it was (currently on <BR>sale)=
 Cost=20
  $98.95 TRW or $197.95 AP + shipping.<BR>3. Buy a new 3/4" MC from Moss=
 (TRW=20
  brand, currently on sale) and <BR>shorten the push rods&nbsp; (approx.=
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  shipping both ways<BR>5. Buy a new 7/8" bore MC and add the brake Servo=
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  booster Moss sells to <BR>give more power without having to modify the&n=
bsp;=20
  pushrods (this option is <BR>supposed to give about a 2:1 boost to the=
 brakes)=20
  Cost $98.95 for the MC <BR>+ $199.95 for the Servo booster+ shipping and=
 a few=20
  pieces of brake line <BR>to plumb in the servo.<BR><BR>Has anyone on the=
 list=20
  done this last option?&nbsp; If so, how did it turn out?<BR><BR>Any expe=
rience=20
  with the TRW MC vs. the AP?<BR><BR>Suggestions on the best option?&nbsp;=
 I'm=20
  trying to balance cost vs. the best <BR>outcome.<BR><BR>Thanks<BR>John=
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