Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Heater fresh air pull

From: Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 10:19:09 -0400

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Nice job Tim.
BTW How did you post an image so all of us are able to see it?
Lin

On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:58 PM, Tim Collins via Spridgets <
[email-masked]> wrote:

>  Hi folks,
> I needed to put the battery charger on my Sprite the other day. Later when
> removing the charger cable (that I had attached to the battery terminal of
> the solenoid) I noticed an orange glow (glowing like the metal on the edge
> of a knife) under the hood with me. I had touched the pull cable for the
> fresh air pull - (part of the heater fan switch) with the charger clamp. I
> quickly repositioned the charger clamp, but the damage was done. I couldn't
> activate the pull. I first though I might have welded it to the outer
> cable, but the problem was that when the wire cooled, it warped so wouldn't
> fit into the outer sheath. I figured I could straighten it enough for it to
> work - I was wrong. The heating and cooling made the wire so brittle that
> it just broke. So I began to plan a fix.
>
> This looked like it should be a fairly easy repair. Just replace the wire
> with a longer one. However, the end of the wire in the switch has a ball on
> the end. I checked the Spridget archive and sure enough Frank C had written
> about such a repair. His method was to MIG weld a ball onto the replacement
> wire and also involved un-soldering the sheath from the switch. Welding a
> ball onto the end of a wire sorta seemed like trying to weld an angel's
> boot to the head of a pin. Frank's success rate was 50% for the two he
> worked on.
>
> I found I could remove the wire from the switch assembly thanks to an
> access hole that allowed me to push to ball out of the retaining hole. I
> just grabbed it then and pulled - short wire out! I began thinking of ways
> to put a ball on the end of the new wire. I considered a ball bearing, but
> rejected that as a being a weak butt joint especially if using solder. I
> figured I wasn't going to be able to drill a hole in a ball bearing either.
> I looked for a pull chain (from a light fixture or key chain) to use a ball
> from that chain, but my chains were too small. I spotted a brass braising
> rod that had a ball on the end. That looked promising. So I drilled a hole
> in the brass ball, cut it loose from rod and slipped it over the tinned
> wire. Then I soldered it all together and filed it into a rough ball shape.
> I reassembled everything and it works well now. Anyhow, that's how I made a
> fix to a Spridget part that isn't readily available anymore and wasn't
> really so bad that it needed replacing - just repair. Here's a pic:
>
> [image: []]
>
>
> ------------------------
>
> [email-masked]
>
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> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>
>

-- 
"Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Nice job Tim.<div>BTW How did you post an image so all of =
us are able to see it?</div><div>Lin</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra">=
<br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:58 PM, Tim Collins=
 via Spridgets <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><=
blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px=
 #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div>
Hi folks,<br>
I needed to put the battery charger on my Sprite the other day. Later
when removing the charger cable (that I had attached to the battery
terminal of the solenoid) I noticed an orange glow (glowing like the
metal on the edge of a knife) under the hood with me. I had touched the
pull cable for the fresh air pull - (part of the heater fan switch) with
the charger clamp. I quickly repositioned the charger clamp, but the
damage was done. I couldn&#39;t activate the pull. I first though I might
have welded it to the outer cable, but the problem was that when the wire
cooled, it warped so wouldn&#39;t fit into the outer sheath. I figured I
could straighten it enough for it to work - I was wrong. The heating and
cooling made the wire so brittle that it just broke. So I began to plan a
fix.<br><br>
This looked like it should be a fairly easy repair. Just replace the wire
with a longer one. However, the end of the wire in the switch has a ball
on the end. I checked the Spridget archive and sure enough Frank C had
written about such a repair. His method was to MIG weld a ball onto the
replacement wire and also involved un-soldering the sheath from the
switch. Welding a ball onto the end of a wire sorta seemed like trying to
weld an angel&#39;s boot to the head of a pin. Frank&#39;s success rate was=
 50%
for the two he worked on. <br><br>
I found I could remove the wire from the switch assembly thanks to an
access hole that allowed me to push to ball out of the retaining hole. I
just grabbed it then and pulled - short wire out! I began thinking of
ways to put a ball on the end of the new wire. I considered a ball
bearing, but rejected that as a being a weak butt joint especially if
using solder. I figured I wasn&#39;t going to be able to drill a hole in a
ball bearing either. I looked for a pull chain (from a light fixture or
key chain) to use a ball from that chain, but my chains were too small. I
spotted a brass braising rod that had a ball on the end. That looked
promising. So I drilled a hole in the brass ball, cut it loose from rod
and slipped it over the tinned wire. Then I soldered it all together and
filed it into a rough ball shape. I reassembled everything and it works
well now. Anyhow, that&#39;s how I made a fix to a Spridget part that isn&#=
39;t
readily available anymore and wasn&#39;t really so bad that it needed
replacing - just repair. Here&#39;s a pic:<br><br>
<img src=3D"cid:.0" width=3D"1600" height=3D"1200" alt=3D"[]"><br><br>
</div>

<br>------------------------<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br=
<br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
ets/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox=
.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div cla=
ss=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"font-size:small">&qu=
ot;Pay if forward&quot; in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut</span><br>=
</div></div>
</div>

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[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Rick Fisk via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 10:28:14 -0400

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Marked turned on the ability to post photos months ago.  Gotta keep up Lin. =
 :-)

Sent from my keyboard

> On Jun 16, 2015, at 10:19 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <spridgets@au=
tox.team.net> wrote:
>=20
>=20
>> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:58 PM, Tim Collins via Spridgets <spridgets@aut=
ox.team.net> wrote:
>> Hi folks,
>> I needed to put the battery charger on my Sprite the other day. Later whe=
n removing the charger cable (that I had attached to the battery terminal of=
 the solenoid) I noticed an orange glow (glowing like the metal on the edge o=
f a knife) under the hood with me. I had touched the pull cable for the fres=
h air pull - (part of the heater fan switch) with the charger clamp. I quick=
ly repositioned the charger clamp, but the damage was done. I couldn't activ=
ate the pull. I first though I might have welded it to the outer cable, but t=
he problem was that when the wire cooled, it warped so wouldn't fit into the=
 outer sheath. I figured I could straighten it enough for it to work - I was=
 wrong. The heating and cooling made the wire so brittle that it just broke.=
 So I began to plan a fix.
>>=20
>> This looked like it should be a fairly easy repair. Just replace the wire=
 with a longer one. However, the end of the wire in the switch has a ball on=
 the end. I checked the Spridget archive and sure enough Frank C had written=
 about such a repair. His method was to MIG weld a ball onto the replacement=
 wire and also involved un-soldering the sheath from the switch. Welding a b=
all onto the end of a wire sorta seemed like trying to weld an angel's boot t=
o the head of a pin. Frank's success rate was 50% for the two he worked on.=20=

>>=20
>> I found I could remove the wire from the switch assembly thanks to an acc=
ess hole that allowed me to push to ball out of the retaining hole. I just g=
rabbed it then and pulled - short wire out! I began thinking of ways to put a=
 ball on the end of the new wire. I considered a ball bearing, but rejected t=
hat as a being a weak butt joint especially if using solder. I figured I was=
n't going to be able to drill a hole in a ball bearing either. I looked for a=
 pull chain (from a light fixture or key chain) to use a ball from that chai=
n, but my chains were too small. I spotted a brass braising rod that had a b=
all on the end. That looked promising. So I drilled a hole in the brass ball=
, cut it loose from rod and slipped it over the tinned wire. Then I soldered=
 it all together and filed it into a rough ball shape. I reassembled everyth=
ing and it works well now. Anyhow, that's how I made a fix to a Spridget par=
t that isn't readily available anymore and wasn't really so bad that it need=
ed replacing - just repair. Here's a pic:
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/grunt=
[email-masked]
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk=
@chartermi.net

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<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"></head><body dir="auto"><div>Marked turned on the ability to post photos months ago. &nbsp;Gotta keep up Lin. &nbsp;:-)<br><br>Sent from my keyboard</div><div><br>On Jun 16, 2015, at 10:19 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div dir="ltr">Nice job Tim.<div>BTW How did you post an image so all of us are able to see it?</div><div>Lin</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:58 PM, Tim Collins via Spridgets <span dir="ltr">&lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div>
Hi folks,<br>
I needed to put the battery charger on my Sprite the other day. Later
when removing the charger cable (that I had attached to the battery
terminal of the solenoid) I noticed an orange glow (glowing like the
metal on the edge of a knife) under the hood with me. I had touched the
pull cable for the fresh air pull - (part of the heater fan switch) with
the charger clamp. I quickly repositioned the charger clamp, but the
damage was done. I couldn't activate the pull. I first though I might
have welded it to the outer cable, but the problem was that when the wire
cooled, it warped so wouldn't fit into the outer sheath. I figured I
could straighten it enough for it to work - I was wrong. The heating and
cooling made the wire so brittle that it just broke. So I began to plan a
fix.<br><br>
This looked like it should be a fairly easy repair. Just replace the wire
with a longer one. However, the end of the wire in the switch has a ball
on the end. I checked the Spridget archive and sure enough Frank C had
written about such a repair. His method was to MIG weld a ball onto the
replacement wire and also involved un-soldering the sheath from the
switch. Welding a ball onto the end of a wire sorta seemed like trying to
weld an angel's boot to the head of a pin. Frank's success rate was 50%
for the two he worked on. <br><br>
I found I could remove the wire from the switch assembly thanks to an
access hole that allowed me to push to ball out of the retaining hole. I
just grabbed it then and pulled - short wire out! I began thinking of
ways to put a ball on the end of the new wire. I considered a ball
bearing, but rejected that as a being a weak butt joint especially if
using solder. I figured I wasn't going to be able to drill a hole in a
ball bearing either. I looked for a pull chain (from a light fixture or
key chain) to use a ball from that chain, but my chains were too small. I
spotted a brass braising rod that had a ball on the end. That looked
promising. So I drilled a hole in the brass ball, cut it loose from rod
and slipped it over the tinned wire. Then I soldered it all together and
filed it into a rough ball shape. I reassembled everything and it works
well now. Anyhow, that's how I made a fix to a Spridget part that isn't
readily available anymore and wasn't really so bad that it needed
replacing - just repair. Here's a pic:<br><br>
<img src="cid:.0" width="1600" height="1200" alt="[]"><br><br>
</div>

<br>------------------------<br>
<br>
<a href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
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Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
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<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-size:small">"Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut</span><br></div></div>
</div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><div><span>------------------------</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation: $12.75</span><br><span></span><br><span>Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span>Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]</a></span><br></div></blockquote></body></html>
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[email-masked]

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