Subject: [Spridgets] Brake light switches - hydraulic and non-hydraulic types

From: WeslakeMonza1330--- via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 2 May 2015 09:28:16 -0400

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Hi list,
 
A bunch of spridgetly brake light switch questions:
 
The brake light switch on my 69 Sprite is hydraulic and if I gave the pedal 
 a good hard push works fine and the brake lines come on.  However, if I  
'dab' the brake pedal or press slowly the brake lights don't come on.
 
Is the reason for this poor switch action due to air being trapped right  
behind the switch sensor or is that unlikely/not possible with any air  being 
purged when I last bled the brakes, noting the brake pedal is good and  
firm. Or is the problem I'm experiencing simply due to the switch going bad  
and needs replacing.
 
I had decided to simply buy a new non-hydraulic/mechanical switch and since 
 I have both a later pedal box with provision for the mechanical switch and 
the  later 'hammer head' brake pedal to go with it.  However, having 
ordered a  switch last night but not looked at the pedal box until a moment ago I 
hadn't  realised that fitting the mechanical switch requires the pedal box 
to be  removed.
 
Other questions:
 
If I do fit the mechanical switch and want to remove the hydraulic switch  
does anyone know what thread it is?  I'm guessing it's BSPT and that I'll  
have to plug it with NPTF - but which BSPT and NPTF?
 
If I want to replace the 4 way union altogether I see I can use the 3H424  
later 3 way union from a later car which is also the same as the one fitted 
to  the rear axle (I have a spare).
 
Anyone done this and any comments on switch life or anything else  
whatsoever?
 
Thanks
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<DIV>Hi list,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>A bunch of spridgetly brake light switch questions:</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The brake light switch on my 69 Sprite is hydraulic and if I gave the=
 pedal=20
a good hard push works fine and the brake lines come on.&nbsp; However, if=
 I=20
'dab' the brake pedal or press slowly the brake lights don't come on.</DIV=
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Is the reason for this poor switch action due to air being trapped ri=
ght=20
behind the switch sensor or is that unlikely/not possible&nbsp;with any ai=
r=20
being purged when I last bled the brakes, noting the brake pedal is good=
 and=20
firm.&nbsp;Or is the problem I'm experiencing simply due to the switch goi=
ng bad=20
and needs replacing.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I had decided to simply buy a new non-hydraulic/mechanical switch and=
 since=20
I have both a later pedal box with provision for the mechanical switch and=
 the=20
later 'hammer head' brake pedal to go with it.&nbsp; However, having order=
ed a=20
switch last night but not looked at the pedal box until a moment ago I had=
n't=20
realised that fitting the mechanical switch requires the pedal box to be=
=20
removed.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Other questions:</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>If I do fit the mechanical switch and want to remove the hydraulic sw=
itch=20
does anyone know what thread it is?&nbsp; I'm guessing it's BSPT and that=
 I'll=20
have to plug it with NPTF - but which BSPT and NPTF?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>If I want to replace the 4 way union altogether I see I can use the=
 3H424=20
later 3 way union from a later car which is also the same as the one fitte=
d to=20
the rear axle (I have a spare).</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Anyone done this and any comments on switch life or anything else=20
whatsoever?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: corvallis--- via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 2 May 2015 06:49:21 -0700

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I would try to bleed suspected air from the switch by loosening and
tightening it while someone steps on the brake pedal. 

If that doesn't work, replace the switch and bleed it. 

If that doesn't work, go on with what you want to do.  Bill in Oregon

  _____  

From: Spridgets [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of
WeslakeMonza1330--- via Spridgets
Sent: Saturday, May 02, 2015 6:28 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [Spridgets] Brake light switches - hydraulic and non-hydraulic
types

Hi list,

Is the reason for this poor switch action due to air being trapped right
behind the switch sensor or is that unlikely/not possible with any air being
purged when I last bled the brakes, noting the brake pedal is good and firm.
Or is the problem I'm experiencing simply due to the switch going bad and
needs replacing.

I had decided to simply buy a new non-hydraulic/mechanical switch and since
I have both a later pedal box with provision for the mechanical switch and
the later 'hammer head' brake pedal to go with it.  However, having ordered
a switch last night but not looked at the pedal box until a moment ago I
hadn't realized that fitting the mechanical switch requires the pedal box to
be removed.

Other questions:

Thanks

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<div class=3DSection1>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>I would try to bleed suspected air =
from
the switch by loosening and tightening it while someone steps on the =
brake
pedal. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>If that doesn&#8217;t work, replace =
the
switch and bleed it. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>If that doesn&#8217;t work, go on =
with
what you want to do.&nbsp; Bill in <st1:State w:st=3D"on"><st1:place =
w:st=3D"on">Oregon</st1:place></st1:State><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<div>

<div class=3DMsoNormal align=3Dcenter style=3D'text-align:center'><font =
size=3D3
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>

<hr size=3D2 width=3D"100%" align=3Dcenter tabindex=3D-1>

</span></font></div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><b><font size=3D2 face=3DTahoma><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Tahoma;font-weight:bold'>From:</span></font></b><font =
size=3D2
face=3DTahoma><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'> =
Spridgets
[mailto:[email-masked]] <b><span =
style=3D'font-weight:bold'>On
Behalf Of </span></b>WeslakeMonza1330--- via Spridgets<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Saturday, May 02, =
2015 6:28
AM<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> =
[email-masked]<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> [Spridgets] =
Brake light
switches - hydraulic and non-hydraulic =
types</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>

</div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Hi =
list,<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>=

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>A bunch of spridgetly brake light =
switch
questions:<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>=

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>The brake light switch on my 69 =
Sprite is
hydraulic and if I gave the pedal a good hard push works fine and the =
brake
lines come on.&nbsp; However, if I 'dab' the brake pedal or press slowly =
the
brake lights don't come on.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>=

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Is the reason for this poor switch =
action
due to air being trapped right behind the switch sensor or is that =
unlikely/not
possible&nbsp;with any air being purged when I last bled the brakes, =
noting the
brake pedal is good and firm.&nbsp;Or is the problem I'm experiencing =
simply
due to the switch going bad and needs =
replacing.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>=

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>I had decided to simply buy a new
non-hydraulic/mechanical switch and since I have both a later pedal box =
with
provision for the mechanical switch and the later 'hammer head' brake =
pedal to
go with it.&nbsp; However, having ordered a switch last night but not =
looked at
the pedal box until a moment ago I hadn't realized that fitting the =
mechanical
switch requires the pedal box to be =
removed.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>=

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Other =
questions:<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>=

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>If I do fit the mechanical switch =
and
want to remove the hydraulic switch does anyone know what thread it =
is?&nbsp;
I'm guessing it's BSPT and that I'll have to plug it with NPTF - but =
which BSPT
and NPTF?<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>=

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>If I want to replace the 4 way =
union
altogether I see I can use the 3H424 later 3 way union from a later car =
which
is also the same as the one fitted to the rear axle (I have a =
spare).<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>=

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Anyone done this and any comments =
on
switch life or anything else whatsoever?<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>=

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Thanks<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>=

</div>

</div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: WeslakeMonza1330--- via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 15:28:20 -0400

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Well I fitted the new switch today.  I did manage to twist the 2 wires  off 
it but then made a better job of soldering wires onto the terminals than  
whoever made the switch did.  I also fitted male spade end connectors so I  
could use the existing wiring from the hydraulic switch.  For now I've also  
left the hydraulic switch and 4-way union in place - removal will be a 
future  job l will do later.
 
I don't understand the whole 3mm free play thing.  The switch goes  from 
being off to being on in about 3mm.  The switch has to be fully wound  into 
the pedal box so that with the brake pedal fully up it is fully pressing  the 
switch contact in.  Once the brake pedal is pressed down the switch  contact 
is released and the brake lights come on.  I guess that pressing  the brake 
pedal puts the brake lights on before the brakes are on, maybe not  such a 
bad thing.  I do have some future brake hydraulic stuff planned so  will 
leave things as they are for now.
 
I plan on fitting a couple of small zip ties to the switch to hold it  
together since it only has flimsy crimping doing so at present.
 
At some point I'll get the inner wing modified so I can replace the switch  
without unbolting the pedal box (also need to fit captive nuts to the 
inside of  the car where the existing ones rusted/stripped out forcing the use of 
a nut and  an assistant to hold a spanner on it.  I do have ARP stainless 
bolts  retaining the pedal box now so won't have the same issue in the future 
(I guess  BMC didn't use copper grease on the factory install).
 
Not least my 69 Sprite is fitted with the later pedal box including the  
later pedal I call the 'hammer head' - possibly both only used on the 1500  
Midget.
 
Finally, I'll be on the look out for a better brake switch.
 
Regards

Daniel

In a message dated 02/05/2015 14:48:12 GMT Daylight Time,  
[email-masked] writes:

Current  switch is probably marginal, since firm pedal means no air 
anywhere in the  hydraulics. OTOH, it is possible that it is simply not passing 
enough current  to drive the brake lights. A small relay might take care of the 
problem, at  least for a while.  
Box doesn't need completely removed to install the mechanical switch; no  
need to mess with the hydraulic connections and the top two bolts only need  
loosening. I am sure that you are aware of the need to leave a few mm of  
travel in the pedal when setting the depth of the switch? Covered in the  
Haynes manual page 167. Bit of a nuisance having to undo the bolts to adjust  it 
later...
I would use the later union and save another 3 grams of weight ;-)
Use an NOS switch rather than the current replacements unless you are  fond 
of replacing them.

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<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 11.00.9600.17801"></HEAD>
<BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR:=
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bottomMargin=3D7 leftMargin=3D7 rightMargin=3D7 topMargin=3D7><FONT id=3Dr=
ole_document=20
color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3DArial>
<DIV>Well I fitted the new switch today.&nbsp; I did manage to twist the=
 2 wires=20
off it but then made a better job of soldering wires onto the terminals th=
an=20
whoever made the switch did.&nbsp; I also fitted male spade end connectors=
 so I=20
could use the existing wiring from the hydraulic switch.&nbsp; For now I'v=
e also=20
left the hydraulic switch and 4-way union in place - removal will be a fut=
ure=20
job l will do later.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I don't understand the whole 3mm free play thing.&nbsp; The switch go=
es=20
from being off to being on in about 3mm.&nbsp; The switch has to be fully=
 wound=20
into the pedal box so that with the brake pedal fully up it is fully press=
ing=20
the switch contact in.&nbsp; Once the brake pedal is pressed down the swit=
ch=20
contact is released and the brake lights come on.&nbsp; I guess that press=
ing=20
the brake pedal puts the brake lights on before the brakes are on, maybe=
 not=20
such a bad thing.&nbsp; I do have some future brake hydraulic stuff planne=
d so=20
will leave things as they are for now.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I plan on fitting a couple of small zip ties to the switch to hold it=
=20
together since it only has flimsy crimping doing so at present.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>At some point I'll get the inner wing modified so I can replace the=
 switch=20
without unbolting the pedal box (also need to fit captive nuts to the insi=
de of=20
the car where the existing ones rusted/stripped out forcing the use of a=
 nut and=20
an assistant to hold a spanner on it.&nbsp; I do have ARP stainless bolts=
=20
retaining the pedal box now so won't have the same issue in the future (I=
 guess=20
BMC didn't use copper grease on the factory install).</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Not least my 69 Sprite is fitted with the later pedal box including=
 the=20
later pedal I call the 'hammer head' - possibly both only used on the 1500=
=20
Midget.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Finally, I'll be on the look out for a better brake switch.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Regards</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Daniel</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 02/05/2015 14:48:12 GMT Daylight Time,=20
[email-masked] writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"=
><FONT=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3D=
Arial>Current=20
  switch is probably marginal, since firm pedal means no air anywhere in=
 the=20
  hydraulics. OTOH, it is possible that it is simply not passing enough cu=
rrent=20
  to drive the brake lights. A small relay might take care of the problem,=
 at=20
  least for a while.=20
  <DIV>Box doesn't need completely removed to install the mechanical switc=
h; no=20
  need to mess with the hydraulic connections and the top two bolts only=
 need=20
  loosening. I am sure that you are aware of the need to leave a few mm of=
=20
  travel in the pedal when setting the depth of the switch? Covered in the=
=20
  Haynes manual page 167. Bit of a nuisance having to undo the bolts to ad=
just=20
  it later...</DIV>
  <DIV>I would use the later union and save another 3 grams of weight ;-)<=
/DIV>
  <DIV>Use an NOS switch rather than the current replacements unless you=
 are=20
  fond of replacing them.</DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></H=
TML>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: David Lieb via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 14:47:26 -0500

--===============2061272349665062767==

--047d7b2e3cdeedebf50516383a48

The 3mm  free play has nothing to do with the electrical system and
everything to do with the hydraulic system. If you don't give it the free
play, the MC piston may not retract far enough to uncover the release port
and the brakes do not fully disengage. The system pumps up but does not
release.

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<p dir=3D"ltr">The 3mm=C2=A0 free play has nothing to do with the electrica=
l system and everything to do with the hydraulic system. If you don&#39;t g=
ive it the free play, the MC piston may not retract far enough to uncover t=
he release port and the brakes do not fully disengage. The system pumps up =
but does not release. </p>

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[email-masked]

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From: WeslakeMonza1330--- via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 04:47:06 -0400

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I think I've got this now.  I screwed the switch in to the point where  it 
touched the brake pedal when the pedal was at rest.  However, it would  be 
possible to screw the switch in all the way so that it pushes the pedal  
forward to the extent that it takes up the brake pedal free play.

In a message dated 16/05/2015 20:47:26 GMT Daylight Time,  
[email-masked] writes:

The 3mm  free play has nothing to do with the electrical  system and 
everything to do with the hydraulic system. If you don't give it  the free play, 
the MC piston may not retract far enough to uncover the release  port and the 
brakes do not fully disengage. The system pumps up but does not  release. 

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUS-ASCII" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 11.00.9600.17801"></HEAD>
<BODY id=3Drole_body style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR:=
 #000000"=20
bottomMargin=3D7 leftMargin=3D7 rightMargin=3D7 topMargin=3D7><FONT id=3Dr=
ole_document=20
color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3DArial>
<DIV>I think I've got this now.&nbsp; I screwed the switch in to the point=
 where=20
it touched the brake pedal when the pedal was at rest.&nbsp; However, it=
 would=20
be possible to screw the switch in all the way so that it pushes the pedal=
=20
forward to the extent that it takes up the brake pedal free play.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 16/05/2015 20:47:26 GMT Daylight Time,=20
[email-masked] writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"=
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3D=
Arial>
  <P dir=3Dltr>The 3mm&nbsp; free play has nothing to do with the electric=
al=20
  system and everything to do with the hydraulic system. If you don't give=
 it=20
  the free play, the MC piston may not retract far enough to uncover the=
 release=20
  port and the brakes do not fully disengage. The system pumps up but does=
 not=20
  release. </P></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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[email-masked]

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From: David Lieb via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 06:32:36 -0500

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That is it. It is a common mistake made when replacing that switch, which
is why I mentioned that adjustment before you did the install. It is
particularly annoying because you need to undo all the pedalbox screws to
adjust it. Fortunately, there is a book you can buy that has this stuff in
it <VBG>
David L
On May 17, 2015 3:47 AM, <[email-masked]> wrote:

>  I think I've got this now.  I screwed the switch in to the point where
> it touched the brake pedal when the pedal was at rest.  However, it would
> be possible to screw the switch in all the way so that it pushes the pedal

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<p dir=3D"ltr">That is it. It is a common mistake made when replacing that =
switch, which is why I mentioned that adjustment before you did the install=
. It is particularly annoying because you need to undo all the pedalbox scr=
ews to adjust it. Fortunately, there is a book you can buy that has this st=
uff in it &lt;VBG&gt;<br>
David L</p>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On May 17, 2015 3:47 AM,  &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br type=
=3D"attribution"><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8=
ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><u></u>

<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:Arial;COLOR:#000000"><font color=
=3D"#000000" size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial">
<div>I think I&#39;ve got this now.=C2=A0 I screwed the switch in to the po=
int where=20
it touched the brake pedal when the pedal was at rest.=C2=A0 However, it wo=
uld=20
be possible to screw the switch in all the way so that it pushes the pedal=
=20
forward to the extent that it takes up the brake pedal free play.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>
<div>In a message dated 16/05/2015 20:47:26 GMT Daylight Time,=20
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">72spridget@gmail.=
com</a> writes:</div>
<blockquote style=3D"PADDING-LEFT:5px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;BORDER-LEFT:blue 2px =
solid"><font style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR:transparent" color=3D"#000000" size=
=3D"2" face=3D"Arial">
  <p dir=3D"ltr">The 3mm=C2=A0 free play has nothing to do with the electri=
cal=20
  system and everything to do with the hydraulic system. If you don&#39;t g=
ive it=20
  the free play, the MC piston may not retract far enough to uncover the re=
lease=20
  port and the brakes do not fully disengage. The system pumps up but does =
not=20
  release. </p></font></blockquote></div></font></div></blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

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