Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Water temp question..

From: Ewing <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 15:33:44 -0500

Thanks for all the input so far!

I left out the info that this is a 1275 bored over to a 1380.

I plan on checking timing this evening and am going to look for Bubbles and
Trixie as well.. then I'll check the radiator smell.. ;-)

I am leaning more and more to the radiator flow volume.  Is there a way to
check that?  Remove the lower hose and see how fast it drains?

If no joy on that front then it's the combustion tester for me to rule out a
head problem, (bad head gasket, crack, etc).

Thanks as always guys,

Lester
------------------------

[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

---

From: Glen Byrns <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 15:15:50 -0700

Did you say you timed it by ear? Retard the idle timing until it only just
runs, or better still, whip out the timing light. I would bet on too much
advance.

Glen Byrns

> On Sep 22, 2014, at 1:33 PM, Ewing <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Kirk Hargreaves <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 17:22:40 -0700

I went through fits running high temps.  My radiator looked to be in good
shape in terms of not being dirty, closing off the flow, etc.  In hind site
it must have been compromised to some degree.  I also had three Sprite
radiators at the time and none of them would keep me cool in summer temps.

I wondered if the Brit radiators are simply not fit for hotter California
temps?

Sitting on my driveway was my sons Suzuki Swift that he stopped driving.
The car had some electrical issues that we could not track down.

I gave the car to our "Bugzuki" builder fellow lister, Larry Miller, who
came up from Salinas (I think Salinas) with a trailer and I kept the
radiator for my 59 Sprite.

The radiator fit right in place and it has since kept my temps just above
my thermostat rating of 160 degrees, no matter how hot outside or how long
I idle at a stop light in 100 degree plus summer temps.  Simply wonderful.

I have been told that the radiator I am using is the same found in the Geo
Metro?

I attached the electric fan to a thermostat under the hood to turn on at a
certain point.

Of course for those of us who are purists the car is no longer stock . .
but I have also changed out many other components as well.

Kirk
59 1275

On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 3:15 PM, Glen Byrns <[email-masked]> wrote:

> > If no joy on that front then it's the combustion tester for me to rule
> out
> a
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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---

From: Lester <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 19:32:11 -0500

Latest info..

Timing was advanced, maybe 10 degrees extra.  Set to 10 BTDC per spec on 123
Dizzy.

Removed radiator cap, wiped oily residue off, topped up water, likely less
than 2 cups.

Went for a run , 5 miles, ambient temp close to 70F.  Temp rose just as before
albeit a bit slower and I didn't travel as far.

I'm thinking that WST is right on as this would explain the lower compression
on one cylinder as well.

Next treatment:  Retorque head bolts (ARP's) and purchase a combustion gas
checker..

Lester

On Sep 22, 2014, at 4:00 PM, Wm Severin Thompson wrote:

> Head gasket. First thing I'd be looking at. Standard or ARO studs? Standard
to spec with a moly lube. ARP to 55lbs with moly
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 22, 2014, at 3:33 PM, Ewing [email-masked] [bugeye]
>>
>> If no joy on that front then it's the combustion tester for me to rule out
a head problem, (bad head gasket, crack, etc).
>>
>> Thanks as always guys,
>>
>> Lester
>>
>> __._,_.___
>> Posted by: Ewing <[email-masked]>
>> Reply via web post                       		 Reply to sender
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Messages in this topic (17)
>> If you wish to unsubscribe from the Austin Healey Bugeye Frogeye Sprite
Club, please send a blank email to:  [email-masked]
>> If you no longer want to receive emails, but wish to remain a member of the
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[email-masked]

>From [email-masked]
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 09:54:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2 Instruction Book

Sorry if this is a silly question, but in the glove box of a TR3 I just
bought, I found a blue booklet, 10" by 6", entitled "Triumph Sports Car
Instruction Book, five shillings". The cover page says "TR2 First Edition"
and it has a pull-out lubrication chart.  The condition of the booklet makes
me think it has to be a reprint.  But I see them on eBay for crazy money.,

Question:  how do I tell if this is a reprint or a national treasure which
means I can retire early.  Oh, wait a minute - I am retired.....

Andrew Uprichard

>From [email-masked]
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 02 May 2014 14:14:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR2 Instruction Book

It may be a reprint.  I have one for the TR3 that I got from Moss or TRF
(can't remember which).

Mike

------ Original Message ------
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: 5/2/2014 8:54:38 AM
Subject: [TR] TR2 Instruction Book

>Sorry if this is a silly question, but in the glove box of a TR3 I just
>bought, I found a blue booklet, 10" by 6", entitled "Triumph Sports Car
>Instruction Book, five shillings". The cover page says "TR2 First
>Edition"
>and it has a pull-out lubrication chart. The condition of the booklet
>makes
>me think it has to be a reprint. But I see them on eBay for crazy
>money.,
>
>
>
>Question: how do I tell if this is a reprint or a national treasure
>which
>means I can retire early. Oh, wait a minute - I am retired.....
>
>
>
>Andrew Uprichard
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 07:45:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2 Instruction Book
References: <[email-masked]>

How does it compare in details (shiny label on front, location & number of
staples, etc) to the ebay versions that claim to be original?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-Instruction-Book-TRIUMPH-Sports-Car-TR2-First-Edition-1953-55-/281204038246?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item4179111a66&vxp=mtr

Of course even that is not conclusive.  I suppose you could ask the ebay
seller how they know that theirs is an original.

Purely Gestalt of course, but a 60 year-old document (even one carefully
preserved) usually looks/smells/feels 60 years old.

Geo

On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 6:54 AM, Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard at uprichard.net>wrote:

> Sorry if this is a silly question, but in the glove box of a TR3 I just
> bought, I found a blue booklet, 10" by 6", entitled "Triumph Sports Car
> Instruction Book, five shillings". The cover page says "TR2 First Edition"
> and it has a pull-out lubrication chart.  The condition of the booklet
> makes
> me think it has to be a reprint.  But I see them on eBay for crazy money.,
>
>
>
> Question:  how do I tell if this is a reprint or a national treasure which
> means I can retire early.  Oh, wait a minute - I am retired.....
>
>
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

>From [email-masked]
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 17:05:30 +0200
Subject: [TR] TR2 Instruction Book
References: <[email-masked]>

You see them offered on eBay, Andrew, not sold.

Asking price is not the value of an item, of course.  Sold item searches
are the only hint of value on eBay.  There have been no TR2-3 instruction
books sold recently on eBay for anything remotely close to $150.  More like
ten bucks.  Condition is important though; the one in the listing indeed
looks nice if original, and that can change the equation.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 3:54 PM, Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard at uprichard.net>wrote:

> Sorry if this is a silly question, but in the glove box of a TR3 I just
> bought, I found a blue booklet, 10" by 6", entitled "Triumph Sports Car
> Instruction Book, five shillings". The cover page says "TR2 First Edition"
> and it has a pull-out lubrication chart.  The condition of the booklet
> makes
> me think it has to be a reprint.  But I see them on eBay for crazy money.,
>
>
>
> Question:  how do I tell if this is a reprint or a national treasure which
> means I can retire early.  Oh, wait a minute - I am retired.....
>
>
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

>From [email-masked]
From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 18:54:47 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR2 Instruction Book
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

I can't give a specific date or dates, but long ago when Rover still owned
British Motor Heritage, the copyright for the re-publication of handbooks
back to the year dot (and maybe even further back?) was granted to a
publishing company whose name I've long forgotten. The result was newly
printed handbooks for many of the popular makes and models of the 50's /
60's 70's and the finished appearance was exactly as those books looked and
felt when the cars and books were new. They're now about as common as
confetti at a wedding and deteriorate in the same way and to the same degree
as the jen_u_ine original. Does it really matter? If the car's restored and
it has an 'aged' looking handbook to go with it that wasn't printed until
much later but looks the same, is this important? Yawn

Jonmac

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock
Sent: 02 May 2014 16:06
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 Instruction Book

You see them offered on eBay, Andrew, not sold.

Asking price is not the value of an item, of course.  Sold item searches are
the only hint of value on eBay.  There have been no TR2-3 instruction books
sold recently on eBay for anything remotely close to $150.  More like ten
bucks.  Condition is important though; the one in the listing indeed looks
nice if original, and that can change the equation.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 3:54 PM, Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard at uprichard.net>wrote:

> Sorry if this is a silly question, but in the glove box of a TR3 I 
> just bought, I found a blue booklet, 10" by 6", entitled "Triumph 
> Sports Car Instruction Book, five shillings". The cover page says "TR2
First Edition"
> and it has a pull-out lubrication chart.  The condition of the booklet 
> makes me think it has to be a reprint.  But I see them on eBay for 
> crazy money.,
>
>
>
> Question:  how do I tell if this is a reprint or a national treasure 
> which means I can retire early.  Oh, wait a minute - I am retired.....
>
>
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk

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>From [email-masked]
From: lherault at verizon.net (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Fri, 02 May 2014 17:02:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] first start up of Spring!

It got progressively less cloudy today in North Attleboro, MA and it is
decently warm.  I figured it would be a good day to get the car out after I
took my mandatory bike ride (must exercise, must exercise).  So I got the
bike out, closed the garage door and off I went.  When I returned, I went to
open the garage door and discovered that one of the door springs broke.
Hmmm.  So I got the battery out, pulled wires off their connectors and slid
them back on a few times to make sure connections at the alternator, coil
and distributor were good, cleaned the battery terminals and clams and
installed the battery.  The TR-6 started right up!  Yes!!!!.  I pulled  it
out of the garage and started to fix the spring.  As I did so, my neigbor's
grand son tried to open the garage next to mine, only to discover that one
of the cable connectors had perished.   We fixed our various spring and
cable problems and then we went to our separate original plans.  His was to
mow a lawn.  Mine was to take a joyride.   Let's see, rain had washed roads
clean.  Winshield was washed.  Top was put down and tonneau cover was
snapped on.   I turned the key and my happy little engine once more came to
life.  I was rather surprised at how well it ran this year.   Last year it
sputtered a lot until I got fresh gas into it.  This year, and the only
difference I know of was using marine grade gas stabilizer, it runs great!
I'm a happy camper!

Ron L, 1973 Mimosa TR-6

>From [email-masked]
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 02 May 2014 18:46:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] first start up of Spring!
References: <004101cf6649$df649370$9e2dba50$@net>

The first ride of the Spring is always a blast.

I had my 72 out about 2 weeks ago and drove it 4 out of the next 5 days. 
Well, I havent had it out since! Too cold and too much rain.

I havent had the bike out yet but the running is going ok as long as I 
can get a dry hour or so.

I had a new garage door installed about 3 years ago and I opted for the 
center torque spring. I got sick of those long side springs always 
breaking. The center spring is also stronger which allows an easy open 
and close.

My 72 started great also. Last year I started using the alcohol free 
gas. It is a bit more expensive but I feel it will attract less H20 in 
the long run.

Still have to get the 3 and 4 going!

Bob

On 05/02/2014 05:02 PM, Ron L'Herault wrote:
> It got progressively less cloudy today in North Attleboro, MA and it is
> decently warm.  I figured it would be a good day to get the car out after I
> took my mandatory bike ride (must exercise, must exercise).  So I got the
> bike out, closed the garage door and off I went.  When I returned, I went to
> open the garage door and discovered that one of the door springs broke.
> Hmmm.  So I got the battery out, pulled wires off their connectors and slid
> them back on a few times to make sure connections at the alternator, coil
> and distributor were good, cleaned the battery terminals and clams and
> installed the battery.  The TR-6 started right up!  Yes!!!!.  I pulled  it
> out of the garage and started to fix the spring.  As I did so, my neigbor's
> grand son tried to open the garage next to mine, only to discover that one
> of the cable connectors had perished.   We fixed our various spring and
> cable problems and then we went to our separate original plans.  His was to
> mow a lawn.  Mine was to take a joyride.   Let's see, rain had washed roads
> clean.  Winshield was washed.  Top was put down and tonneau cover was
> snapped on.   I turned the key and my happy little engine once more came to
> life.  I was rather surprised at how well it ran this year.   Last year it
> sputtered a lot until I got fresh gas into it.  This year, and the only
> difference I know of was using marine grade gas stabilizer, it runs great!
> I'm a happy camper!

>From [email-masked]
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 02 May 2014 18:51:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2 Instruction Book
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

John,

What is important to me is the operation of a Triumph. I have the 
handbooks for all my Triumphs, reprints for sure, but the only time I 
have used one is to double check the firing order on my 72 6. The 3 and 
4 are memorized.

They stay in the cubby box.

For me it is the big smile I always have when driving a Triumph.

Bob

On 05/02/2014 01:54 PM, John Macartney wrote:
> I can't give a specific date or dates, but long ago when Rover still owned
> British Motor Heritage, the copyright for the re-publication of handbooks
> back to the year dot (and maybe even further back?) was granted to a
> publishing company whose name I've long forgotten. The result was newly
> printed handbooks for many of the popular makes and models of the 50's /
> 60's 70's and the finished appearance was exactly as those books looked and
> felt when the cars and books were new. They're now about as common as
> confetti at a wedding and deteriorate in the same way and to the same degree
> as the jen_u_ine original. Does it really matter? If the car's restored and
> it has an 'aged' looking handbook to go with it that wasn't printed until
> much later but looks the same, is this important? Yawn
>
> Jonmac
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock
> Sent: 02 May 2014 16:06
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 Instruction Book
>
> You see them offered on eBay, Andrew, not sold.
>
> Asking price is not the value of an item, of course.  Sold item searches are
> the only hint of value on eBay.  There have been no TR2-3 instruction books
> sold recently on eBay for anything remotely close to $150.  More like ten
> bucks.  Condition is important though; the one in the listing indeed looks
> nice if original, and that can change the equation.
>
> Don
> 1962 TR3B TSF202L
>
>
> On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 3:54 PM, Andrew Uprichard
> <auprichard at uprichard.net>wrote:
>
>> Sorry if this is a silly question, but in the glove box of a TR3 I
>> just bought, I found a blue booklet, 10" by 6", entitled "Triumph
>> Sports Car Instruction Book, five shillings". The cover page says "TR2
> First Edition"
>> and it has a pull-out lubrication chart.  The condition of the booklet
>> makes me think it has to be a reprint.  But I see them on eBay for
>> crazy money.,
>>
>>
>>
>> Question:  how do I tell if this is a reprint or a national treasure
>> which means I can retire early.  Oh, wait a minute - I am retired.....
>>
>>
>>
>> Andrew Uprichard

>From [email-masked]
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 22:03:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installing front fender trim moldings on my TR4A

So I ordered some "rivet clips" MOSS PN 326-125 to install the aluminum trim
on the front fenders of my TR4A and I was just wondering if anybody out there
has used these? It is a sort of "pop rivet" type fastner that is used to snap
on the aluminum trim. I slid one in one of the holes in the fender and it
doesn't look to me like there would be much of the clip exposed to actually
hold the trim. I hate to put one of these in my nicely painted fender only to
discover I did it wrong!
So, if anybody has done this, I would appriciate any hints.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

>From [email-masked]
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 20:09:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] Installing front fender trim moldings on my TR4A
References: <8144D0B98B7F4387ACD3D16864EB5427@DaveLaptop>

Dave,

I did these about a year ago, no problems.  The rivets have a little cup 
that faces out from the fender once installed.  The rivets themselves 
install with a pop rivet tool like a normal pop rivet.  The trim then snaps 
over the little cups - I had to push harder on the trim than I expected but 
was rewarded with a satisfying snap as it fit over the cup.  You may want to 
have a second pair of hands to keep the loose end of the trim from 
scratching the fender until you have the trim over the first few cups.

Cliff

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave Connitt
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 8:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Installing front fender trim moldings on my TR4A

So I ordered some "rivet clips" MOSS PN 326-125 to install the aluminum trim
on the front fenders of my TR4A and I was just wondering if anybody out 
there
has used these? It is a sort of "pop rivet" type fastner that is used to 
snap
on the aluminum trim. I slid one in one of the holes in the fender and it
doesn't look to me like there would be much of the clip exposed to actually
hold the trim. I hate to put one of these in my nicely painted fender only 
to
discover I did it wrong!
So, if anybody has done this, I would appriciate any hints.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net 

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 21:16:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Firestones for. TR3?

I have see many threads on tires but never seen a mention of the Firestone
F-560?  I've seen some on eBay at $80, n/c shipping.  Anyone had any
experience with these?

Also of interest, my local Firestone dealer can get a Federal brand #657 for
$47.  Never hear anything about Federal tires either.

BTW, there is a set of four(4) Verdesteins on eBay for $100, but they are 12
year old still with the molding tips.  Maybe a good set of parade tires but
nothing more.

All comments welcome.

Bill B.

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 21:57:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Firestones for. TR3?

I have see many threads on tires but never seen a mention of the Firestone
F-560?  I've seen some on eBay at $80, n/c shipping.  Anyone had any
experience with these?

Also of interest, my local Firestone dealer can get a Federal brand #657 for
$47.  Never hear anything about Federal tires either.

BTW, there is a set of four(4) Verdesteins on eBay for $100, but they are 12
year old still with the molding tips.  Maybe a good set of parade tires but
nothing more.

All comments welcome.

Bill B.

>From [email-masked]
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 23:27:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installing front fender trim moldings on my TR4A
References: <8144D0B98B7F4387ACD3D16864EB5427@DaveLaptop>
 <8F806B77B17242E5A78283CFDD3DAEAC@Shemp>

Cliff,
Thanks for the info!
I just didn't want to end up taking a giant leap back here..
I will put this on the list for this weekend.
I am taking my TR4A to it's first car show Sunday. The car isn't quite 
finished yet but it's close enough spend a Sunday afternoon at a local car 
show. Hopefully, there will be some other British cars there.
Thanks again Cliff!
Dave Connitt

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen at earthlink.net>
To: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt at fuse.net>
Cc: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Installing front fender trim moldings on my TR4A

> Dave,
>
> I did these about a year ago, no problems.  The rivets have a little cup 
> that faces out from the fender once installed.  The rivets themselves 
> install with a pop rivet tool like a normal pop rivet.  The trim then 
> snaps over the little cups - I had to push harder on the trim than I 
> expected but was rewarded with a satisfying snap as it fit over the cup. 
> You may want to have a second pair of hands to keep the loose end of the 
> trim from scratching the fender until you have the trim over the first few 
> cups.
>
> Cliff
>
>
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: Dave Connitt
> Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 8:03 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Installing front fender trim moldings on my TR4A
>
> So I ordered some "rivet clips" MOSS PN 326-125 to install the aluminum 
> trim
> on the front fenders of my TR4A and I was just wondering if anybody out 
> there
> has used these? It is a sort of "pop rivet" type fastner that is used to 
> snap
> on the aluminum trim. I slid one in one of the holes in the fender and it
> doesn't look to me like there would be much of the clip exposed to 
> actually
> hold the trim. I hate to put one of these in my nicely painted fender only 
> to
> discover I did it wrong!
> So, if anybody has done this, I would appriciate any hints.
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net

>From [email-masked]
From: john-marie at sbcglobal.net (john-marie at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 07:42:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Chroming TR4 Tail lights
References: <[email-masked]>
 <D6041D0BF8844E6B87462AFA0A77A67D@livingroompc>

Have visited plating shops in the St. Louis area.  Seems that pot metal is not
a problem for shops that do automotive chroming.  Comes with the territory.
As for removing the sockets from the tail light housings...not necessary.  As
pointed out by one of the vendors, I can see where the original chrome stops.
Something about the electroplating proces.  Thanks to all who responded.

John DeLuca

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 30, 2014, at 8:54 PM, "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
>
> No answer, but please respond to the whole list if you have some
information, I have a whole bunch of these, all with pitting to some degree or
another, if there is somewhere that can do a good job for a reasonable price I
am sure there would be a lot of interest.  Greg Lemon
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: <john-marie at sbcglobal.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2014 8:08 PM
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Chroming TR4 Tail lights
>
>> Hello List,
>> Have one tail light housing that is badly corroded on the inside.  They
are,
>> of course, pot metal, making them a problem to clean and re-chrome.  Also,
the
>> bulb sockets must be removed before they are chromed.  They appear to be
>> removable by straightening the bent tabs inside the metal housing.  Have
any
>> listers had experience getting these chromed?  Thanks.
>> John DeLuca
>> TR4A in Restro

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 07:36:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Chroming TR4 Tail lights

>  Seems that 
> pot metal is not
> a problem for shops that do automotive chroming. 

So, what do they do to fill the pits in the pot metal?  Chrome will not fill pits at all; if you want a shiny result, it has to be
shiny before the chrome is applied.  I've heard horror stories of shops that just ground/sanded/polished it down; meaning the result
bore little resemblance to the original, especially if there were any small details originally.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 07:42:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Installing front fender trim moldings on my TR4A
References: <8144D0B98B7F4387ACD3D16864EB5427@DaveLaptop>
 <8F806B77B17242E5A78283CFDD3DAEAC@Shemp>
 <01B1CD58C9A84BE89024617A4D58A06E@DaveLaptop>

Dave -

I think I have similar rivets on a non-TR British car and I found that,
rather than snap the piece straight on, it worked better to slip one edge
under one side of the rivet then snap the other edge over.

No idea if that is either possible or advisable on the 4A -- just thought
I'd mention a technique you might consider if they prove difficult to use.

Geo

On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 8:27 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:

> Cliff,
> Thanks for the info!
> I just didn't want to end up taking a giant leap back here..
> I will put this on the list for this weekend.
> I am taking my TR4A to it's first car show Sunday. The car isn't quite
> finished yet but it's close enough spend a Sunday afternoon at a local car
> show. Hopefully, there will be some other British cars there.
> Thanks again Cliff!
> Dave Connitt
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cliff Hansen" <
> cliff_hansen at earthlink.net>
> To: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt at fuse.net>
> Cc: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 10:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Installing front fender trim moldings on my TR4A
>
>
>
>  Dave,
>>
>> I did these about a year ago, no problems.  The rivets have a little cup
>> that faces out from the fender once installed.  The rivets themselves
>> install with a pop rivet tool like a normal pop rivet.  The trim then snaps
>> over the little cups - I had to push harder on the trim than I expected but
>> was rewarded with a satisfying snap as it fit over the cup. You may want to
>> have a second pair of hands to keep the loose end of the trim from
>> scratching the fender until you have the trim over the first few cups.
>>
>> Cliff
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Dave Connitt
>> Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 8:03 PM
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [TR] Installing front fender trim moldings on my TR4A
>>
>> So I ordered some "rivet clips" MOSS PN 326-125 to install the aluminum
>> trim
>> on the front fenders of my TR4A and I was just wondering if anybody out
>> there
>> has used these? It is a sort of "pop rivet" type fastner that is used to
>> snap
>> on the aluminum trim. I slid one in one of the holes in the fender and it
>> doesn't look to me like there would be much of the clip exposed to
>> actually
>> hold the trim. I hate to put one of these in my nicely painted fender
>> only to
>> discover I did it wrong!
>> So, if anybody has done this, I would appriciate any hints.
>> Thanks,
>> Dave Connitt
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net
>>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

>From [email-masked]
From: adcronin at mi.rr.com (Dan Cronin)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 10:51:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Chroming TR4 Tail lights
References: <20.18.14090.4EEF4635@cdptpa-oedge03>

It's my understanding that the "metal" is thoroughly cleaned, then given a (or
several) coat of copper which is then worked and re worked if necessary, then
nickel, then chrome.  Recently had saddle bag holders for 1940 Indian 4
chromed that were so pitted and rusted I could not believe they could have
been rescued.  Many coats of copper were applied and worked, etc.
On May 3, 2014, at 10:36 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> Seems that
> pot metal is not
> a problem for shops that do automotive chroming.

So, what do they do to fill the pits in the pot metal?  Chrome will not fill
pits at all; if you want a shiny result, it has to be
shiny before the chrome is applied.  I've heard horror stories of shops that
just ground/sanded/polished it down; meaning the result
bore little resemblance to the original, especially if there were any small
details originally.

>From [email-masked]
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 11:05:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installing front fender trim moldings on my TR4A
References: <8144D0B98B7F4387ACD3D16864EB5427@DaveLaptop><8F806B77B17242E5A78283CFDD3DAEAC@Shemp><01B1CD58C9A84BE89024617A4D58A06E@DaveLaptop>
 <CANzE1bFb4WU46RnL5ikgr_M6pJmRYtUp=[email-masked]>

Thanks,
I will take all the suggestions I can get!
I need to polish up that trim now!
Dave
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Geo Hahn
  To: Dave Connitt
  Cc: list Triumph
  Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2014 10:42 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Installing front fender trim moldings on my TR4A

  Dave -

  I think I have similar rivets on a non-TR British car and I found that,
rather than snap the piece straight on, it worked better to slip one edge
under one side of the rivet then snap the other edge over.

  No idea if that is either possible or advisable on the 4A -- just thought
I'd mention a technique you might consider if they prove difficult to use.

  Geo

  On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 8:27 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:

    Cliff,
    Thanks for the info!
    I just didn't want to end up taking a giant leap back here..
    I will put this on the list for this weekend.
    I am taking my TR4A to it's first car show Sunday. The car isn't quite
finished yet but it's close enough spend a Sunday afternoon at a local car
show. Hopefully, there will be some other British cars there.
    Thanks again Cliff!
    Dave Connitt

    ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cliff Hansen"
<cliff_hansen at earthlink.net>
    To: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt at fuse.net>
    Cc: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
    Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 10:09 PM
    Subject: Re: [TR] Installing front fender trim moldings on my TR4A

      Dave,

      I did these about a year ago, no problems.  The rivets have a little cup
that faces out from the fender once installed.  The rivets themselves install
with a pop rivet tool like a normal pop rivet.  The trim then snaps over the
little cups - I had to push harder on the trim than I expected but was
rewarded with a satisfying snap as it fit over the cup. You may want to have a
second pair of hands to keep the loose end of the trim from scratching the
fender until you have the trim over the first few cups.

      Cliff

      -----Original Message----- From: Dave Connitt
      Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 8:03 PM
      To: triumphs at autox.team.net
      Subject: [TR] Installing front fender trim moldings on my TR4A

      So I ordered some "rivet clips" MOSS PN 326-125 to install the aluminum
trim
      on the front fenders of my TR4A and I was just wondering if anybody out
there
      has used these? It is a sort of "pop rivet" type fastner that is used to
snap
      on the aluminum trim. I slid one in one of the holes in the fender and
it
      doesn't look to me like there would be much of the clip exposed to
actually
      hold the trim. I hate to put one of these in my nicely painted fender
only to
      discover I did it wrong!
      So, if anybody has done this, I would appriciate any hints.
      Thanks,
      Dave Connitt

      ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

      Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
      Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
      Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
      Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net

    ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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    Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
    Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
    Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

>From [email-masked]
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 11:09:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Chroming TR4 Tail lights
References: <20.18.14090.4EEF4635@cdptpa-oedge03>

Randall,
I came across this low temperature solder for repairing pot metal prior to 
plating. You drill out the corrosion and then fill it with "Muggy Weld", 
sand it smooth and start plating..  I haven't tried it but their website 
looks like it is a good way to get the surface smooth and ready for plating.

http://www.muggyweld.com/repair-pot-metal-pits

Dave Connitt 

>From [email-masked]
From: lee.k.janssen at gmail.com (Lee Janssen)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 09:26:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] oil catch can

Can anyone provide recommendations on an oil catch can. From the amazon
reviews it appears most are simply poorly made hollow cans with limited
separation capability.
Thanks in advance
Lee Janssen

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 08:37:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Chroming TR4 Tail lights

> I haven't tried it but 
> their website 
> looks like it is a good way to get the surface smooth and 
> ready for plating.

I've tried a similar product, without much success.  Perhaps just lack of skill on my part; but it seemed that with the propane
torch, I could not get the piece heated hot enough for the solder to bond.  When I got out the MAPP gas, the piece started to melt
in places and the solder still didn't want to bond.  A micro tip on the OA torch might have done a better job (so I could keep the
heat in the pit) but it wasn't available at the time.  (I noticed that, for the live demo I saw, they used thin wall tubing, rather
than a thick casting.  Much easier to heat a limited area.)

However, my point was that, if you take a piece to a shop for chroming, you need to ask pointed questions about how _they_ will
prepare the piece.  Both processes are time consuming (aka expensive) and the shop may want to cut corners.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 15:42:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Firestones for. TR3?

Hi, Bill.  I'd suggest going to TireRack.com and reading reviews of tires in the sizes you want.  Reviews break out by grip, durability, snow performance, etc.  

Terry

>I have see many threads on tires but never seen a mention of the Firestone
>F-560?  I've seen some on eBay at $80, n/c shipping.  Anyone had any
>experience with these?

>From [email-masked]
From: lee.k.janssen at gmail.com (Lee Janssen)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 11:43:07 -0600
Subject: [TR] What does the 70-71 TR6 breather assembly do?

I was looking at a TR6 1970 - 1971 Part 146725 'breather assembly' and
wonder what does this do and why did it disappear from all later versions
of the car?
On plate BF of TRF spare parts catalog volume 1 it clearly shows that the
outlet is lower than the inlet which makes no sense to me. I looked in the
Bentley repair manual (briefly) but didn't see a reference to the unit.
Thanks for setting me straight.
Lee

>From [email-masked]
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 15:07:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Chroming TR4 Tail lights
References: <[email-masked]>
 <D6041D0BF8844E6B87462AFA0A77A67D@livingroompc>
 <[email-masked]>

I had a couple of rechroming jobs done at one of the Saint Louis
shops.  Caveat emptor.  Contact me through pm for details.

Don
Saint Louis MO
1962 TR3B TSF202L

On 5/3/14, john-marie at sbcglobal.net <john-marie at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Have visited plating shops in the St. Louis area.  Seems that pot metal is
> not
> a problem for shops that do automotive chroming.  Comes with the territory.
> As for removing the sockets from the tail light housings...not necessary.
> As
> pointed out by one of the vendors, I can see where the original chrome
> stops.
> Something about the electroplating proces.  Thanks to all who responded.
>
> John DeLuca
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Apr 30, 2014, at 8:54 PM, "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>> No answer, but please respond to the whole list if you have some
> information, I have a whole bunch of these, all with pitting to some degree
> or
> another, if there is somewhere that can do a good job for a reasonable price
> I
> am sure there would be a lot of interest.  Greg Lemon
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: <john-marie at sbcglobal.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2014 8:08 PM
>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [TR] Chroming TR4 Tail lights
>>
>>> Hello List,
>>> Have one tail light housing that is badly corroded on the inside.  They
> are,
>>> of course, pot metal, making them a problem to clean and re-chrome.
>>> Also,
> the
>>> bulb sockets must be removed before they are chromed.  They appear to be
>>> removable by straightening the bent tabs inside the metal housing.  Have
> any
>>> listers had experience getting these chromed?  Thanks.
>>> John DeLuca
>>> TR4A in Restro
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

>From [email-masked]
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 21:30:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Front pinion bearing TR3A

Hello, everyone.

I have the car in the air for other reasons, and decided to add the pinion sleeve and put in a new pinion seal to cure a small leak.  While there, I notice the pinion shaft coming out the front does wiggle up and down.  

Question 1:  is it relatively normal, or do I need to replace the front pinion bearing.

Question 2:  can you remove the bearing with the differential in the car, and how?

Thank you, everyone.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

>From [email-masked]
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 17:52:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Chroming TR4 Tail lights
References: <C5.6D.14090.64D05635@cdptpa-oedge03>

Yes,
And one more issue is removing the old plating to get down to the pot metal 
in the first place.
That was my stumble point..
Dave Connitt

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2014 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Chroming TR4 Tail lights

>> I haven't tried it but
>> their website
>> looks like it is a good way to get the surface smooth and
>> ready for plating.
>
> I've tried a similar product, without much success.  Perhaps just lack of 
> skill on my part; but it seemed that with the propane
> torch, I could not get the piece heated hot enough for the solder to bond. 
> When I got out the MAPP gas, the piece started to melt
> in places and the solder still didn't want to bond.  A micro tip on the OA 
> torch might have done a better job (so I could keep the
> heat in the pit) but it wasn't available at the time.  (I noticed that, 
> for the live demo I saw, they used thin wall tubing, rather
> than a thick casting.  Much easier to heat a limited area.)
>
> However, my point was that, if you take a piece to a shop for chroming, 
> you need to ask pointed questions about how _they_ will
> prepare the piece.  Both processes are time consuming (aka expensive) and 
> the shop may want to cut corners.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 16:34:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Front pinion bearing TR3A

> I have the car in the air for other reasons, and decided to 
> add the pinion sleeve and put in a new pinion seal to cure a 
> small leak.  While there, I notice the pinion shaft coming 
> out the front does wiggle up and down.  

Is that with the flange & nut removed?  If so, then perfectly normal.  The bearing is a tapered roller bearing, much like a front
wheel bearing.  Without the flange & nut to clamp the inner race in place on the shaft, the bearing slides forward a little and
loosens up.

But there should be absolutely no lateral movement with the flange & nut installed.

> Question 2:  can you remove the bearing with the differential 
> in the car, and how?

Not really practical, IMO.  Besides, that is the least stressed bearing of the four found in the differential.  Almost impossible
for it to be worn out, without the others being damaged as well.  Besides, if it has become loose, then the rollers and races have
shed bits of extremely hard metal into the differential oil, meaning they have torn up the other bearings, thrust washers, gear
faces and so on.  Replacing only the input bearing would be like re-arranging the deck chairs on the Titanic.

And if you did somehow replace only that bearing, then you would also need to redo the shim pack to get the bearing preload just
right (plus have the special tool to measure the preload).  When I did the Stag diff, the new input bearing was quite a bit
different than the old one, requiring a change of some .030" in the shim pack.  Of course I started out moving by .001" at a time
...

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2014 00:03:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Front pinion bearing TR3A

>Is that with the flange & nut removed?  If so, then perfectly normal.  The bearing is a tapered roller bearing, much like a front
>wheel bearing.  Without the flange & nut to clamp the inner race in place on the shaft, the bearing slides forward a little and
>loosens up.

Yup.  Figgered it out.  I don't have a problem after all, and THAT'S the best problem of all!

Thanks everyone.

Terry

>From [email-masked]
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2014 12:57:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] pinion flange torque

Book says the the pinion flange torque is 85 - 100 foot pounds.

Just seems so extreme. I can't see from the drawings, but does't the flange torque against the front pinon bearing?  

>From [email-masked]
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2014 06:02:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] What does the 70-71 TR6 breather assembly do?

I believe it has a mist eliminator and baffle inside.  You'd have to do an
alien autopsy to confirm.  I suspect some MBA eliminated it.

Chad in Tulsa.
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

>From [email-masked]
From: oldpine47 at frontiernet.net (Fred Light)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2014 09:54:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Engine

Morning All,

I at the point in my project where I need to het my engine rebuilt.  I have
talked to two people in my area (SE Pennsylvania) and the lowest  estimate is
at least 5K.  Seems like a lot for an engine rebuild.   Any suggestions about
someone near SE Pa. that is reliable and not so costly.

TIA
Fred
57038

>From [email-masked]
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Sun, 04 May 2014 10:07:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Engine
References: <D9444864E8C14CD3BEC8919A039944AD@Oldpine47HP>

same logistics ($$$) that had me put in a V6 ratherthan a rebiuld at 
those rediculous prices!
you can by a short block v8 350 for $1850! so whay does a 4 banger cost 
so much?  it's all B.S.

(tsimportedautomotive.com)   He uses Hart Machining out in NW Ohio. 
Excellent shop, excellent work, much better prices than anything you'll 
find here on the east coast.
Hart is is an amazing shop. Mention to Ted  I sent you his way and 
refereed to Hart..  A couple of us went out to see the shop in person. 
an adventure WELL worth the trip.

Paul Tegler

On 5/4/2014 9:54 AM, Fred Light wrote:
> Morning All,
>
> I at the point in my project where I need to het my engine rebuilt.  I have
> talked to two people in my area (SE Pennsylvania) and the lowest  estimate is
> at least 5K.  Seems like a lot for an engine rebuild.   Any suggestions about
> someone near SE Pa. that is reliable and not so costly.
>
> TIA
> Fred
> 57038
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2014 07:08:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Engine
References: <D9444864E8C14CD3BEC8919A039944AD@Oldpine47HP>

On Sun, May 4, 2014 at 6:54 AM, Fred Light <oldpine47 at frontiernet.net>wrote:
>
> Any suggestions about someone near SE Pa. that is reliable and not so
> costly.
>

$5K is probably not out of line but really, who is more reliable or less
costly than you yourself?

Alternately, perhaps you can find a shop that will let you do some of the
basic work yourself and they take on (or work with you) on the somewhat
specialized bits.  I know the latter approach can be had where I live but
requires the customer to have some prior rapport with the shop owner.

Geo

>From [email-masked]
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sun, 04 May 2014 10:25:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Engine
References: <D9444864E8C14CD3BEC8919A039944AD@Oldpine47HP>

Fred,

Give Matt a call at Triumph Rescue.
http://www.triumphrescue.com/

Bob

On 05/04/2014 09:54 AM, Fred Light wrote:
> Morning All,
>
> I at the point in my project where I need to het my engine rebuilt.  I have
> talked to two people in my area (SE Pennsylvania) and the lowest  estimate is
> at least 5K.  Seems like a lot for an engine rebuild.   Any suggestions about
> someone near SE Pa. that is reliable and not so costly.
>
> TIA
> Fred
> 57038
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2014 08:38:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Engine

> Any 
> suggestions about
> someone near SE Pa. that is reliable and not so costly.

I'll bet that Fred Light fellow would do a good job.
<G>

Seriously, it's not that hard.  Does take a few special tools, but they aren't all that expensive.  And you'll have the satisfaction
of doing it yourself instead of just throwing money at it.

I did my first TR3A engine rebuild when I was only 19, with no formal training at all, and after having botched the job on a couple
of American engines.  That engine still runs today!  The TR motor is so simple and reliable, it's hard to screw it up.

Worth a thought, anyway.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2014 08:50:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] pinion flange torque

> Just seems so extreme. I can't see from the drawings, but 
> does't the flange torque against the front pinon bearing?  

Not against the bearing itself, but against the inner race of the bearing.  There is a fairly large amount of force on that shaft &
bearings, and it is essential that the gear on the end of the shaft be held accurately in position relative to the ring gear it
drives.  So there is a precision spacer (and those shims I mentioned before) that fit between the inner races of both bearings on
the shaft.  When you reef down on the nut, it clamps the entire stack of flange, input bearing inner race, shims, spacer and the
pinion bearing inner race against the pinion gear.  In this case, there is some force applied to the bearings (the preload I
mentioned before), but that force is set by the thickness of the shims.  However, if the shims were installed a little thicker, you
could actually have some clearance in the bearings even with the 100 ftlb torque.

BTW, the range of torque is so you can pull to the bottom value, then tighten some more as necessary to line up the holes in the nut
& shaft.  Don't forget there are two holes in the shaft, so it can't take more than 1/12 turn to line them up.  In the very rare
case where the holes don't line up within the torque range, you may need to sand or file a bit off the back of the nut and try
again.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2014 09:31:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] pinion flange torque
References: <[email-masked]>
 <26.96.16163.7D166635@cdptpa-oedge01>

When I did mine I marked (and photographed) the starting position of the
nut and then counted the turns to remove.  This enabled me to get it back
to the same position upon reassembly.  Seemed like a good double-check to
the torque spec.

This assumes all you are doing is replacing the seal.

Geo

On Sun, May 4, 2014 at 8:50 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Just seems so extreme. I can't see from the drawings, but
> > does't the flange torque against the front pinon bearing?
>
> Not against the bearing itself, but against the inner race of the bearing.
>  There is a fairly large amount of force on that shaft &
> bearings, and it is essential that the gear on the end of the shaft be
> held accurately in position relative to the ring gear it
> drives.  So there is a precision spacer (and those shims I mentioned
> before) that fit between the inner races of both bearings on
> the shaft.  When you reef down on the nut, it clamps the entire stack of
> flange, input bearing inner race, shims, spacer and the
> pinion bearing inner race against the pinion gear.  In this case, there is
> some force applied to the bearings (the preload I
> mentioned before), but that force is set by the thickness of the shims.
>  However, if the shims were installed a little thicker, you
> could actually have some clearance in the bearings even with the 100 ftlb
> torque.
>
> BTW, the range of torque is so you can pull to the bottom value, then
> tighten some more as necessary to line up the holes in the nut
> & shaft.  Don't forget there are two holes in the shaft, so it can't take
> more than 1/12 turn to line them up.  In the very rare
> case where the holes don't line up within the torque range, you may need
> to sand or file a bit off the back of the nut and try
> again.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

>From [email-masked]
From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner)
Date: Sun, 04 May 2014 12:44:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Engine
References: <BD.58.20871.4FE56635@cdptpa-oedge02>

I totally agree with Randall,
I've rebuilt many engines over the years and the Spitfire and TR-3 are among 
the easiest to do yourself.  Are you changing pistons and liners?  You'll 
have to find a good machine shop to have the machine work done, but there is 
nothing exotic about that.  Toughest work may be having new hardened valve 
seats installed so you can use unleaded fuel with no worries.  All of the 
parts are readily available and as Randall said, the tool costs are minimal. 
Many of the tools can be borrowed from Autozone or Advance Auto or the like.
Good luck
Pete

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2014 11:38 AM
To: 'Fred Light' ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Engine

> Any
> suggestions about
> someone near SE Pa. that is reliable and not so costly.

I'll bet that Fred Light fellow would do a good job.
<G>

Seriously, it's not that hard.  Does take a few special tools, but they 
aren't all that expensive.  And you'll have the satisfaction
of doing it yourself instead of just throwing money at it.

I did my first TR3A engine rebuild when I was only 19, with no formal 
training at all, and after having botched the job on a couple
of American engines.  That engine still runs today!  The TR motor is so 
simple and reliable, it's hard to screw it up.

Worth a thought, anyway.

Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pryner at verizon.net 

>From [email-masked]
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (CFM-TR)
Date: Sun, 04 May 2014 13:00:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Engine
References: <BD.58.20871.4FE56635@cdptpa-oedge02>
 <66104FBBAD27496F8071DDBA653A6670@HomePC>

Ditto.  I consider myself a 'cookbook' mechanic and I feel comfortable with
my '3 engine.  The manuals are easy to follow.  (get several different as it
seemed that the overlap was useful).   
Take it slow and check everything twice before you move on to the next step.
If you have others in the area that have been through it, they are a wealth
of information, encouragement, and even quality control.

Didn't feel as comfortable with the transmission so I spent the $ to have it
done.  in retrospect, I wish I had tried first.  

Carl

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pete Ryner
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2014 12:44 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Engine

I totally agree with Randall,
I've rebuilt many engines over the years and the Spitfire and TR-3 are among
the easiest to do yourself.  Are you changing pistons and liners?  You'll
have to find a good machine shop to have the machine work done, but there is
nothing exotic about that.  Toughest work may be having new hardened valve
seats installed so you can use unleaded fuel with no worries.  All of the
parts are readily available and as Randall said, the tool costs are minimal.

Many of the tools can be borrowed from Autozone or Advance Auto or the like.
Good luck
Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2014 11:38 AM
To: 'Fred Light' ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Engine

> Any
> suggestions about
> someone near SE Pa. that is reliable and not so costly.

I'll bet that Fred Light fellow would do a good job.
<G>

Seriously, it's not that hard.  Does take a few special tools, but they
aren't all that expensive.  And you'll have the satisfaction of doing it
yourself instead of just throwing money at it.

I did my first TR3A engine rebuild when I was only 19, with no formal
training at all, and after having botched the job on a couple of American
engines.  That engine still runs today!  The TR motor is so simple and
reliable, it's hard to screw it up.

Worth a thought, anyway.

Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pryner at verizon.net 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

>From [email-masked]
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2014 19:31:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Rebuilt Engine

I've forgotten.  When we have the head off for maintenance, then put it back on again, do we run the engine just to warm up or maybe 20 mintues, before retorquing the head?  Or do we do it at 2,000 miles and the oil change.

Terry Smith

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2014 14:37:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Rebuilt Engine
References: <[email-masked]>

I re-torque after 200 miles.
Bill B

Sent from mobile Bill

On May 4, 2014, at 2:31 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

I've forgotten.  When we have the head off for maintenance, then put it back
on again, do we run the engine just to warm up or maybe 20 mintues, before
retorquing the head?  Or do we do it at 2,000 miles and the oil change.

Terry Smith

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

>From [email-masked]
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2014 20:53:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Anybody installed RetroSport wheels on a TR4A

I took my TR4A to it's first car show today and talked to a guy with a Sunbeam
Tiger who had a 4-spoke aluminum wheel that looked really nice made by a
company called RetroSport. It was kind of similar to the Konig Rewind look.
Has anyone had any experience with these wheels? Specifically, I would be
interested in finding out if I can install a set of 15x7 wheels without
modifications to the suspension or adding spacers. I can get either a 0 or +3
offset.
The Konig Rewinds are nice but I need to go to a 16 inch wheel and tire. I
think if I stay with a 15 inch I would have a better chance of staying
reasonably close to the standard Triumph wheel diameter which I think is 26"
(someone correct me if I am wrong). The reason is I would like to keep the
speedo reasonably accurate.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

>From [email-masked]
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2014 20:52:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Engine
References: <BD.58.20871.4FE56635@cdptpa-oedge02>
 <66104FBBAD27496F8071DDBA653A6670@HomePC>
 <[email-masked]>

I'll chime in with the "do it yourself except the stuff you need to take to 
a machine shop" crowd.  For the most part motors are pretty simple to take 
apart and put back together, like a jigsaw puzzle most of the stuff only can 
go back on the way it came off, however, it is important to put bearing caps 
and such back on the same place they came off, Couple of tips you don't 
always see in the books, although I didn't have one early on, later in my 
DIY "career" I bought a metal number punch set, to stamp numbers in to steel 
parts,  sometimes part may already be numbered sometimes not, but nice to 
have the certainty of a number one stamped into the metal of number one con 
rod and number one con rod bearing cap, etc.  Also not the most scientific, 
but spin it as you put each of the part back on  (except with a TR engine 
have the liners held in place somehow if the head isn't on yet),  if 
something is very wrong it will tell you, and better when spinning by hand 
than on start up.

Find a good machine shop with an old timer and he will help walk you through 
the rebuild, nothing particularly exotic about a cast iron OHV four.

You also have listservs and message boards when you get stuck, something 
many of us didn't have when we were starting out.

Good Luck!

Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2014 07:59:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Engine
References: <BD.58.20871.4FE56635@cdptpa-oedge02>
 <66104FBBAD27496F8071DDBA653A6670@HomePC>
 <[email-masked]>

On Sun, May 4, 2014 at 1:00 PM, CFM-TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:
> Didn't feel as comfortable with the transmission so I spent the $ to have it
> done.  in retrospect, I wish I had tried first.

I've got a TR6 transmission that I'm reassembling right now...other
than a bit of finicky measuring, it's a surprisingly simple operation.
 You need to have a few uncommon tools that you can borrow or make,
but it's not all that complicated.

If you can assemble a bicycle on Christmas Eve, you can rebuild an
engine or transmission.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

>From [email-masked]
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2014 13:27:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 aeorscreens modification

Hello. List:  I'd like to put aeroscreens on the latest TR3 but the
stanchion plates which bolt to the valance look really ugly.  Has anyone
come with a kind of blanking plate which could be used when the windscreen
is off the car?

Andrew Uprichard

>From [email-masked]
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2014 13:41:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 aeorscreens modification
References: <[email-masked]>

Don't most people just have the chromed mounting brackets bolts showing on
the scuttle when the aeroscreens and brackets are off the car?

You've seen, I assume, Andrew, the "original style" aeroscreen mounting
brackets being sold by Peter Wigglesworth in the UK?
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/44304-original-style-aeroscreen-mounting-brackets/?hl=aeroscreens

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

On Mon, May 5, 2014 at 1:27 PM, Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard at uprichard.net>wrote:

> Hello. List:  I'd like to put aeroscreens on the latest TR3 but the
> stanchion plates which bolt to the valance look really ugly.  Has anyone
> come with a kind of blanking plate which could be used when the windscreen
> is off the car?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

>From [email-masked]
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2014 16:04:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Anybody installed RetroSport wheels on a TR4A
References: <[email-masked]>

I put on American Racing Silverstones 15 x 6 years ago. The 165-15  
Michelin X that I measured was 79.75" (deflated) circumference, 25.4"  
diameter.
I measured another brand that was a little smaller. I downloaded a  
tire size calculator and came up with 205-65-15. The calculator said a  
perfect match would be 205-64-15. (The calculator is just a  
spreadsheet but someone else was better at that than me.) Online tire  
size calculators are plentiful, just search. Most people say that the  
old tires had a profile equivalent to 80 and if you put that in the  
calculator 165-80-15 the circumference is 79.77". Best match for a 16"  
is 195-60-16, perfect match 195-61-16.

I really don't think 15x7 would work. I had to reduce my turning lock  
to lock because the wheels scraped the end of the upper A arm. I would  
have been better off with 5.5" but if you want Silverstones you take  
what you can get.

Allen
TR4

On May 5, 2014, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> The Konig Rewinds are nice but I need to go to a 16 inch wheel and  
> tire. I
> think if I stay with a 15 inch I would have a better chance of staying
> reasonably close to the standard Triumph wheel diameter which I  
> think is 26"
> (someone correct me if I am wrong). The reason is I would like to  
> keep the
> speedo reasonably accurate.

>From [email-masked]
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2014 13:10:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine

Hi List!
I've been away for awhile, because i sold my car to switzerland. I
have lots of TR parts that I'l getting rid of by the end of this month, so if
you need anything then E-mail me. 
 
Now to the meat of this E-mail:
After I
install the head to 105'#/SQ", I then start up the engine untill it's running
up to normal temp. turn off the engine, remove RAPedistial with all Rocker
Arms on it & torque head in proper sequension to 105'#/sq", then retorque head
every 3,000 miles when you do the oil & filter change, etc.

-Cosmo Kramer

>From [email-masked]
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2014 17:02:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 aeorscreens modification
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

On Mon, May 5, 2014 at 1:41 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> You've seen, I assume, Andrew, the "original style" aeroscreen mounting
> brackets being sold by Peter Wigglesworth in the UK?
> http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/44304-original-style-aeroscreen-mounting-brackets/?hl=aeroscreens

Apparently it costs $77.60 to view that picture....

>From [email-masked]
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2014 17:03:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 aeorscreens modification
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <CAO8Q7CO=[email-masked]>

Pushed the button too soon...

Is this them?

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/adverts.php?view=614&i=1

On Mon, May 5, 2014 at 5:02 PM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:
> On Mon, May 5, 2014 at 1:41 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> You've seen, I assume, Andrew, the "original style" aeroscreen mounting
>> brackets being sold by Peter Wigglesworth in the UK?
>> http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/44304-original-style-aeroscreen-mounting-brackets/?hl=aeroscreens
>
> Apparently it costs $77.60 to view that picture....

>From [email-masked]
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2014 17:18:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 aeorscreens modification
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <CAO8Q7CO=[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Yup, those are the ones.

The original link I sent musta been to a thread in the members-only forum,
yes?  Didn't notice -- sorry.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

On Monday, May 5, 2014, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:

> Pushed the button too soon...
>
> Is this them?
>
> http://www.tr-register.co.uk/adverts.php?view=614&i=1
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 5, 2014 at 5:02 PM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com<javascript:;>>
> wrote:
> > On Mon, May 5, 2014 at 1:41 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com<javascript:;>>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> You've seen, I assume, Andrew, the "original style" aeroscreen mounting
> >> brackets being sold by Peter Wigglesworth in the UK?
> >>
> http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/44304-original-style-aeroscreen-mounting-brackets/?hl=aeroscreens
> >
> > Apparently it costs $77.60 to view that picture....
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <javascript:;> **
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

>From [email-masked]
From: l1j1s at aol.com (Lawrence Schwartz)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2014 17:31:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Aeros

List, I have a beautiful set of Aeros for sale. With respect to the team net
protocol, if anyone is interested please contact me off list. l1j1s at aol.com
 Larry

>From [email-masked]
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2014 17:52:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 aeorscreens modification
References: <[email-masked]>

Sorry if I was unclear - but I am looking for something to replace the
stanchion plates (or fill the empty holes if there are no plates) when I
have aeroscreens on the car.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2014 1:28 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 aeorscreens modification

Hello. List:  I'd like to put aeroscreens on the latest TR3 but the
stanchion plates which bolt to the valance look really ugly.  Has anyone
come with a kind of blanking plate which could be used when the windscreen
is off the car?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

>From [email-masked]
From: roadwarriordave at hotmail.com (Dave Murphy)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2014 18:55:32 -0400
Subject: [TR]  Anybody installed RetroSport wheels on a TR4A

Dave,
I have Panasport Light Weight 8 spoke 15" x 7", 0" offset mags on my TR6 shod
with 215/60 BFG TA radials. The combination looks fantastic and fits fine
without spacers. I expect the similarly dimensioned Retro Sport rims would fit
a TR4A  the same way.   But my car stays in the garage mostly because the wide
tires make it a chore to drive.

The steering effort is so high when parking that I think I might tear a
cartlige, pull a ligament or tendon, or agravate arthritis in my elbows every
time I park. And it must be hard on all the steering joints too. Because I
don't want to damage myself or the car, when parking, I don't turn the wheel
quite as far as I could, and it probably takes five times as long to parallel
park. I go back & forth, back & forth, back & forth, back & forth... Unlike
with the standard 185 x 15 Michelin X, one needs both hands and all the force
you can muster to park. Forget about letting your wife drive the car or
leaving Starbucks with a Latte in one hand and steering with the other.

And I have to really fight the wide tires when they follow ruts in the road.

So it's looks versus drivability. If I had to do again, especially at my
current arthritis-prone age, I'd stick to the 185 x 15's with rims of the same
3/8" (?) offset as came with car, and marvel at how nimble a TR is.

-Dave Murphy,
Dearborn Michigan.

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 4 May 2014 20:53:49 -0400
From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Anybody installed RetroSport wheels on a TR4A

I took my TR4A to it's first car show today and talked to a guy with a
Sunbeam
Tiger who had a 4-spoke aluminum wheel that looked really nice made by a
company called RetroSport. It was kind of similar to the Konig Rewind look.
Has anyone had any experience with these wheels? Specifically, I would be
interested in finding out if I can install a set of 15x7 wheels without
modifications to the suspension or adding spacers. I can get either a 0 or +3
offset.
The Konig Rewinds are nice but I need to go to a 16 inch wheel and tire. I
think if I stay with a 15 inch I would have a better chance of staying
reasonably close to the standard Triumph wheel diameter which I think is 26"
(someone correct me if I am wrong). The reason is I would like to keep the
speedo reasonably accurate.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

>From [email-masked]
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 05 May 2014 19:58:53 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Seat belt restoration

 I have searched through the archives and seen this issue discussed, but the archive is returning a 404 page not found error for everything.

I have contact to-date Ssnake Oyl Products, and Sharon Clifton who appears to have worked for them and is now doing her own restoration.

If anyone has been down this road, I would appreciate your input.

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6

On 04/29/14, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:
 
To the list,

I am lucky enough to have the original seat belts installed by the factory on my 1972 Triumph TR6. The webbing is in fair shape, and the buckles are fairly good based on their age.

What I am concerned about is the safety of the webbing.

I see several restoration services out there, some of which still exist and others that don't. 

Has anyone on the list had a set of Triumph crested factory buckles restored by anyone they would like to recommend?

Thanks,

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6
Vienna, VA

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

>From [email-masked]
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2014 20:38:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Windscreen Tenax Threads

Just starting on the windscreen assembly for the TR3B and I find that the
threads on the frame I bought, beautifully re-chromed, do not fit the tenax
posts that came from my TR3B frame.  They are much smaller and will not
accept the post that I have from my 3B frame.   I think the posts that I
have are #10x32 threads, can anyone confirm that before I start drilling and
tapping on this 'new' frame.
 
Many thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
'67 Morgan 4/4 Comp (next in line)
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"

>From [email-masked]
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Tue, 6 May 2014 02:22:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 aeorscreens modification
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Andrew, those attachment points and the guide plates are part of the cars
character. You were supposed to drive to the race track with the windshield
on, silk scarf blowing in the wind, young lady with a floral print frock and
clutching onto her straw hat by your side. Once you got to the race track you
removed the windshield and drove like a maniac with the aeroscreens only until
the race was over. At that time you re-attach the windshield and sedately
drive the young lady home for tea and crumpets on the croquet lawn.

Show the guide plates off with pride.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, May 5, 2014 5:53 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 aeorscreens modification

Sorry if I was unclear - but I am looking for something to replace the
stanchion plates (or fill the empty holes if there are no plates) when I have
aeroscreens on the car.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2014 1:28 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 aeorscreens modification

Hello. List:  I'd like to put aeroscreens on the latest TR3 but the stanchion
plates which bolt to the valance look really ugly.  Has anyone come with a
kind of blanking plate which could be used when the windscreen is off the
car?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan.foster at hp.com

>From [email-masked]
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2014 09:47:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Identifying Engine, Rear and Trans for TR3

I cleaned up my 57 TR3 Smallmouth project enough to identify the Engine,
Trans and Rear End #'s

I'm trying to figure out if the numbers are even generally associated with
the car or if they may be a mix of items from other cars.   If nothing else,
it appears that I have a TR3 transmission with a later TR4 top and shifter.

Does anybody have a list of approximate ranges / years for these items or
will I need to shell out the $ for the BMH certificate?

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2014 18:12:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Identifying Engine, Rear and Trans for TR3
References: <[email-masked]>

If you will read the Judging rules from the VTR website it tries to explain
that the numbers can easily be several hundred units apart and still be
original to the car.  

For example, my TR3B is TCF2549 with engine TCF2391E and Trans TSF3022(TSF
number got a 500 unit head start in the TR3B line, no number for the diff.
My '58 TR3A was TS30766 with engine TS31314E, trans TS30741 and diff
TS31316.

It is typically assumed that because engines were pulled off line for other
reasons, failures, replacements and sales to Morgan Motors for their Plus
Four the engine number will always be higher than the commission number.

Hope this helps,
bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2014 11:48 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Identifying Engine, Rear and Trans for TR3

I cleaned up my 57 TR3 Smallmouth project enough to identify the Engine,
Trans and Rear End #'s

I'm trying to figure out if the numbers are even generally associated with
the car or if they may be a mix of items from other cars.   If nothing else,
it appears that I have a TR3 transmission with a later TR4 top and shifter.

Does anybody have a list of approximate ranges / years for these items or
will I need to shell out the $ for the BMH certificate?

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

>From [email-masked]
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2014 20:28:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Identifying Engine, Rear and Trans for TR3

I  cleaned up my 57 TR3 Smallmouth project enough to identify the  Engine,
Trans and Rear End #'s

Does anybody have a list of  approximate ranges / years for these items or
will I need to shell out the  $ for the BMH certificate?

Jonas Payne:
The BMIHT does not list the transmission nor differential  numbers, only 
the engine number.  It is generally accepted that if those  two numbers are 
within a couple  hundred of the car's Commission number  then they are 
original and no one will argue.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
54 TR2LD

>From [email-masked]
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2014 09:34:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] part inquiry

Hello,

My stock oil filter assembly is leaking a bit. I looked up the part on 
the TR3 parts pdf and it lists it as part # 500321.

Is this the correct part for the 58 version of the oil filter assembly? 
The Purolator verion?

Thanks,

Bob

>From [email-masked]
From: Gel1500 at aol.com (Gel1500 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 07:49:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Triumph Spitfire Parts Sale for Charity

The Richmond Triumph Register Car Club (RTR)  will be selling Triumph 
Spitfire 1500 parts, as well as other Triumph parts, at  the Carlisle Import and 
Kit Car Nationals in Carlisle, PA Friday, May 16 through  Sunday, May 18. 
Proceeds from the Spitfire parts sale will be donated to the  Massey Cancer 
Center at Virginia Commonwealth University in Richmond. We are  restoring a 
1976 Spitfire for sale, proceeds also going to the charity, and in  the 
process are parting out another complete Spitfire, including other Spitfire  parts 
donated by our members. Hundreds of Spitfire parts for sale, including  
hood, hardtop, doors, gearboxes, engines, suspension parts, interior and  
exterior trim, seats, and hard to find parts. Look for us at Space D 46 in the  
vending area. Some TR3 and TR7/8 parts will also be for sale. For more  
information, or to ask about specific parts needed, contact gt6parts at aol.com.  
Thanks!  

>From [email-masked]
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 07:43:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Parts for  SALE-- Garage Sale!

-Cosmo Kramer

>From [email-masked]
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 08:06:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR Parts for ssale- Garage Sale!

-Cosmo Kramer

>From [email-masked]
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 08:21:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR Parts for sale- Garage sale

Hi List! 
OK, 3rd time try on sending this.

I'm having a garage sale on 5-24-14 from 10:00-> 14:00 on May 24-2014 @ afriends barn: 
433 Gallup Rd
Spencerport, NY 14559

What ever dosen't sell & I don't keep (IF I do keep anything),will be scrapped! So some things will be going for penny's on the dollar. If you want something shipped to you, then YOU pay for shipping + (we can talk about the (+), by E-mail or phone:716-833-3734) 

EVERYTHING MUST GO by the end of May 31-14!
-Cosmo Kramer

>From [email-masked]
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 11:53:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Have I blown a gasket?

Hello list:

Following a club run last weekend, I did some basic testing on the TR4.
Found that plugs #1 and #2  were fouled, especially #2, which had an oil
drip on its tip. Proceeded to check the compression : 110 on #1 & 2; 156 on
#3&4.  Then I remembered something peculiar at the Webers. The front carb ,
feeding the front cylinders, has for a while not seemed fully effective;
eg, you can't choke off engine by blocking one or both throats, whereas
choking either of the rear throats will stall the engine. Finally, I do
have to top off the radiator more than would seem usual, with no leakage
apparent.

So - Have I blown the gasket? Or perhaps it wasn't seated properly in the
first place. I reassembled this engine some 5 years ago, so anything is
possible. Compression readings four years ago were 135, 130, 130, 135
(cold) - close enough. The readings above were done on a warm engine and
were the same wet and dry.

Your thoughts?  And thanks, as always.

John Howard

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 12:39:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Have I blown a gasket?
References: <CAJaD1DPOd-2t250bXKFUJkG-XSk5vZRbnr=[email-masked]>

John -

You may be right, but I would check all valve clearances before getting
into the head.  Also, a leak-down test may tell you more than just a
compression test.

Geo

On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 11:53 AM, Lee&John Howard <leejohn7 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello list:
>
> Following a club run last weekend, I did some basic testing on the TR4.
> Found that plugs #1 and #2  were fouled, especially #2, which had an oil
> drip on its tip. Proceeded to check the compression : 110 on #1 & 2; 156 on
> #3&4.  Then I remembered something peculiar at the Webers. The front carb ,
> feeding the front cylinders, has for a while not seemed fully effective;
> eg, you can't choke off engine by blocking one or both throats, whereas
> choking either of the rear throats will stall the engine. Finally, I do
> have to top off the radiator more than would seem usual, with no leakage
> apparent.
>
> So - Have I blown the gasket? Or perhaps it wasn't seated properly in the
> first place. I reassembled this engine some 5 years ago, so anything is
> possible. Compression readings four years ago were 135, 130, 130, 135
> (cold) - close enough. The readings above were done on a warm engine and
> were the same wet and dry.
>
> Your thoughts?  And thanks, as always.
>
> John Howard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

>From [email-masked]
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 13:39:56 -0600
Subject: [TR] Have I blown a gasket?
References: <CAJaD1DPOd-2t250bXKFUJkG-XSk5vZRbnr=[email-masked]>

Sounds like you've been basically running on two and the occasional 3,  
maybe 4. You didn't mention how it ran before you started your testing.

Sounds like a head gasket  could be blown, but you might have an  
intake manifold leak too that could mess with the carbs, foul the  
plugs, gum up the valves, and affect the compression or all of the  
above also.

You can always try re- torquing the head and seeing if that helps, but  
since you have to take the rockers off anyhow you might as well do a  
new head gasket if it points to that. What color is the exhaust? Ask  
whoever might have been following you on the run if they noticed any  
colors from your tailpipe?

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

On May 8, 2014, at 12:53 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:

> Hello list:
>
> Following a club run last weekend, I did some basic testing on the  
> TR4.
> Found that plugs #1 and #2  were fouled, especially #2, which had an  
> oil
> drip on its tip. Proceeded to check the compression : 110 on #1 & 2;  
> 156 on
> #3&4.  Then I remembered something peculiar at the Webers. The front  
> carb ,
> feeding the front cylinders, has for a while not seemed fully  
> effective;
> eg, you can't choke off engine by blocking one or both throats,  
> whereas
> choking either of the rear throats will stall the engine. Finally, I  
> do
> have to top off the radiator more than would seem usual, with no  
> leakage
> apparent.
>
> So - Have I blown the gasket? Or perhaps it wasn't seated properly  
> in the
> first place. I reassembled this engine some 5 years ago, so anything  
> is
> possible. Compression readings four years ago were 135, 130, 130, 135
> (cold) - close enough. The readings above were done on a warm engine  
> and
> were the same wet and dry.
>
> Your thoughts?  And thanks, as always.
>
> John Howard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

>From [email-masked]
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 13:09:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Have I blown a gasket?
References: <CAJaD1DPOd-2t250bXKFUJkG-XSk5vZRbnr=[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Thank you Geo and Bud and Phil

I have to ask - how do I do a leak-down test?

The exhaust is definitely white. No droplets there, as far as I can tell.

John

On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 12:39 PM, Bud R <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

> Sounds like you've been basically running on two and the occasional 3,
> maybe 4. You didn't mention how it ran before you started your testing.
>
> Sounds like a head gasket  could be blown, but you might have an intake
> manifold leak too that could mess with the carbs, foul the plugs, gum up
> the valves, and affect the compression or all of the above also.
>
> You can always try re- torquing the head and seeing if that helps, but
> since you have to take the rockers off anyhow you might as well do a new
> head gasket if it points to that. What color is the exhaust? Ask whoever
> might have been following you on the run if they noticed any colors from
> your tailpipe?
>
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 8, 2014, at 12:53 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
>
> Hello list:
>
> Following a club run last weekend, I did some basic testing on the TR4.
> Found that plugs #1 and #2  were fouled, especially #2, which had an oil
> drip on its tip. Proceeded to check the compression : 110 on #1 & 2; 156 on
> #3&4.  Then I remembered something peculiar at the Webers. The front carb ,
> feeding the front cylinders, has for a while not seemed fully effective;
> eg, you can't choke off engine by blocking one or both throats, whereas
> choking either of the rear throats will stall the engine. Finally, I do
> have to top off the radiator more than would seem usual, with no leakage
> apparent.
>
> So - Have I blown the gasket? Or perhaps it wasn't seated properly in the
> first place. I reassembled this engine some 5 years ago, so anything is
> possible. Compression readings four years ago were 135, 130, 130, 135
> (cold) - close enough. The readings above were done on a warm engine and
> were the same wet and dry.
>
> Your thoughts?  And thanks, as always.
>
> John Howard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

>From [email-masked]
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 14:22:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] Have I blown a gasket?
References: <CAJaD1DPOd-2t250bXKFUJkG-XSk5vZRbnr=[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

White is bad.

Best to have a shop do the leakdown test and have them include the  
cost of it in the repair of a head gasket if needed, which it sounds  
like IS needed.

Bud

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

On May 8, 2014, at 2:09 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:

> Thank you Geo and Bud and Phil
>
> I have to ask - how do I do a leak-down test?
>
> The exhaust is definitely white. No droplets there, as far as I can  
> tell.
>
> John
>
>
> On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 12:39 PM, Bud R <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:
> Sounds like you've been basically running on two and the occasional  
> 3, maybe 4. You didn't mention how it ran before you started your  
> testing.
>
> Sounds like a head gasket  could be blown, but you might have an  
> intake manifold leak too that could mess with the carbs, foul the  
> plugs, gum up the valves, and affect the compression or all of the  
> above also.
>
> You can always try re- torquing the head and seeing if that helps,  
> but since you have to take the rockers off anyhow you might as well  
> do a new head gasket if it points to that. What color is the  
> exhaust? Ask whoever might have been following you on the run if  
> they noticed any colors from your tailpipe?
>
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 8, 2014, at 12:53 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
>
>> Hello list:
>>
>> Following a club run last weekend, I did some basic testing on the  
>> TR4.
>> Found that plugs #1 and #2  were fouled, especially #2, which had  
>> an oil
>> drip on its tip. Proceeded to check the compression : 110 on #1 &  
>> 2; 156 on
>> #3&4.  Then I remembered something peculiar at the Webers. The  
>> front carb ,
>> feeding the front cylinders, has for a while not seemed fully  
>> effective;
>> eg, you can't choke off engine by blocking one or both throats,  
>> whereas
>> choking either of the rear throats will stall the engine. Finally,  
>> I do
>> have to top off the radiator more than would seem usual, with no  
>> leakage
>> apparent.
>>
>> So - Have I blown the gasket? Or perhaps it wasn't seated properly  
>> in the
>> first place. I reassembled this engine some 5 years ago, so  
>> anything is
>> possible. Compression readings four years ago were 135, 130, 130, 135
>> (cold) - close enough. The readings above were done on a warm  
>> engine and
>> were the same wet and dry.
>>
>> Your thoughts?  And thanks, as always.
>>
>> John Howard
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 21:33:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] Have I blown a gasket?

---- Lee&John Howard <leejohn7 at gmail.com> wrote: 
> Hello list:
> 
> Following a club run last weekend, I did some basic testing on the TR4.
> Found that plugs #1 and #2  were fouled, especially #2, which had an oil
> drip on its tip.

That seems fairly damning to me.  I think you've got worse than a blown head gasket.  Unless you've added a direct oil feed to the rocker shaft, I think you're going to find a broken piston or maybe just broken rings.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 14:56:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Have I blown a gasket?
References: <CAJaD1DPOd-2t250bXKFUJkG-XSk5vZRbnr=[email-masked]>
 <20140508213358.W03QU.219880.root@cdptpa-web02>

Holy smokes - broken piston or rings? this engine is virtually new! If so,
I have only yours truly to blame.
I'll do the leak-down, just to confirm that its a cylinder issue, then
check the valve train, then remove the head and examine the gasket. If it
is blown, can I stop there, or should I drop the pan and inspect the
pistons?

John

On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 2:33 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

>
> ---- Lee&John Howard <leejohn7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> > Hello list:
> >
> > Following a club run last weekend, I did some basic testing on the TR4.
> > Found that plugs #1 and #2  were fouled, especially #2, which had an oil
> > drip on its tip.
>
> That seems fairly damning to me.  I think you've got worse than a blown
> head gasket.  Unless you've added a direct oil feed to the rocker shaft, I
> think you're going to find a broken piston or maybe just broken rings.
>
> Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 22:10:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] Have I blown a gasket?

---- Lee&John Howard <leejohn7 at gmail.com> wrote: 
> Holy smokes - broken piston or rings? this engine is virtually new! If so,
> I have only yours truly to blame.
> I'll do the leak-down, just to confirm that its a cylinder issue, then
> check the valve train, then remove the head and examine the gasket. If it
> is blown, can I stop there, or should I drop the pan and inspect the
> pistons?

Hard to say, but if it were my engine, that is what I would do.  Dropping the pan isn't that hard, and I think it unlikely that you are getting that much oil (enough to drop from the plug) past the head gasket.

I knew I had a problem (from the huge clouds of oil smoke chasing me down the freeway), but this engine was still running:
http://tinyurl.com/jw3v4av

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2014 18:17:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Have I blown a gasket?
References: <20140508221028.MMIQI.220997.root@cdptpa-web02>

If the compression is the same wet and dry and it is a fairly fresh engine I 
wouldn't bother with a leak down test.  The head has to come off anyway.  By 
the sounds of the symptoms, the problem should be obvious.  Just my $.02
Pete

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2014 6:10 PM
To: Lee&John Howard
Cc: triumph list list
Subject: Re: [TR] Have I blown a gasket?

---- Lee&John Howard <leejohn7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> Holy smokes - broken piston or rings? this engine is virtually new! If so,
> I have only yours truly to blame.
> I'll do the leak-down, just to confirm that its a cylinder issue, then
> check the valve train, then remove the head and examine the gasket. If it
> is blown, can I stop there, or should I drop the pan and inspect the
> pistons?

Hard to say, but if it were my engine, that is what I would do.  Dropping 
the pan isn't that hard, and I think it unlikely that you are getting that 
much oil (enough to drop from the plug) past the head gasket.

I knew I had a problem (from the huge clouds of oil smoke chasing me down 
the freeway), but this engine was still running:
http://tinyurl.com/jw3v4av

Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pryner at verizon.net 

>From [email-masked]
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 15:21:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Have I blown a gasket?
References: <CAJaD1DPOd-2t250bXKFUJkG-XSk5vZRbnr=[email-masked]>
 <20140508213358.W03QU.219880.root@cdptpa-web02>
 <[email-masked]>

OTOH -- I didn't hang my hat on "...Found that plugs #1 and #2  were
fouled, especially #2, which had an oil  drip on its tip.".

I'm sure you saw a drop of something, but you also said " I do  have to top
off the radiator more than would seem usual, with no leakage
apparent.".

Coolant dripping off a badly sooted plug can look something like dirty oil.

I think there is a fair chance you have a simple blown headgasket getting
coolant into that cylinder.  Have you smelled the exhaust?  Such a coolant
leak may present itself as a sweet smell at the tailpipe (can make you
hungry for pancakes).

Tine will tell but there is a chance that it is something straight forward
and easily repaired.

Geo

On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 2:56 PM, Lee&John Howard <leejohn7 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Holy smokes - broken piston or rings? this engine is virtually new! If so,
> I have only yours truly to blame.
> I'll do the leak-down, just to confirm that its a cylinder issue, then
> check the valve train, then remove the head and examine the gasket. If it
> is blown, can I stop there, or should I drop the pan and inspect the
> pistons?
>
> John
>
>
> On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 2:33 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > ---- Lee&John Howard <leejohn7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> > > Hello list:
> > >
> > > Following a club run last weekend, I did some basic testing on the TR4.
> > > Found that plugs #1 and #2  were fouled, especially #2, which had an
> oil
> > > drip on its tip.
> >
> > That seems fairly damning to me.  I think you've got worse than a blown
> > head gasket.  Unless you've added a direct oil feed to the rocker shaft,
> I
> > think you're going to find a broken piston or maybe just broken rings.
> >
> > Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

>From [email-masked]
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 15:49:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Have I blown a gasket?
References: <CAJaD1DPOd-2t250bXKFUJkG-XSk5vZRbnr=[email-masked]>
 <20140508213358.W03QU.219880.root@cdptpa-web02>
 <[email-masked]>
 <CANzE1bEPYAitP4n_E2EDOH-yWHUJS6DOv=[email-masked]>

Just applied the smell test. A few deep breaths near knocked me out, but no
sweet smell
 could I detect.
I also seem to remember thinking the color of the oil I changed out a month
ago was weird, with a milky tinge, but I chalked that up to the oil having
sat still  all winter.
Another sign of blown gasket I guess.

On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 3:21 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> OTOH -- I didn't hang my hat on "...Found that plugs #1 and #2  were
> fouled, especially #2, which had an oil  drip on its tip.".
>
> I'm sure you saw a drop of something, but you also said " I do  have to
> top off the radiator more than would seem usual, with no leakage
> apparent.".
>
> Coolant dripping off a badly sooted plug can look something like dirty oil.
>
> I think there is a fair chance you have a simple blown headgasket getting
> coolant into that cylinder.  Have you smelled the exhaust?  Such a coolant
> leak may present itself as a sweet smell at the tailpipe (can make you
> hungry for pancakes).
>
> Tine will tell but there is a chance that it is something straight forward
> and easily repaired.
>
> Geo
>
>
> On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 2:56 PM, Lee&John Howard <leejohn7 at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Holy smokes - broken piston or rings? this engine is virtually new! If so,
>> I have only yours truly to blame.
>> I'll do the leak-down, just to confirm that its a cylinder issue, then
>> check the valve train, then remove the head and examine the gasket. If it
>> is blown, can I stop there, or should I drop the pan and inspect the
>> pistons?
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 2:33 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > ---- Lee&John Howard <leejohn7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> > > Hello list:
>> > >
>> > > Following a club run last weekend, I did some basic testing on the
>> TR4.
>> > > Found that plugs #1 and #2  were fouled, especially #2, which had an
>> oil
>> > > drip on its tip.
>> >
>> > That seems fairly damning to me.  I think you've got worse than a blown
>> > head gasket.  Unless you've added a direct oil feed to the rocker
>> shaft, I
>> > think you're going to find a broken piston or maybe just broken rings.
>> >
>> > Randall
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

>From [email-masked]
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2014 16:48:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Have I blown a gasket?

Hi Lee!
Im sorry to say that the more I read on the Digerst List, the more I feel you have a blown Head Gasket, (amout #1&2 carbs troubles).

Try draining 1 min.oil, worth of 'drain time, & plug the engine. Let sit for a day & observe: Vol. colour, taste, smell, feel, etc. That will give you a better understanding of what's INSIDE the engine. 

Lets face it! The first thing you will do in the engine rebuilding (head in this case) is to drain the oil & throw away the filter.
 You sould put in cheap 30 Wt. non- drtergent oil & run to engine temp. & drain IMEDIATLY! to flush out the oils system. Then, to head change or what ever.

Just my 2cents! :>)

-Cosmo Kramer

>From [email-masked]
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2014 10:55:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Lead to 75'  Triumph Spitfire car,  with O/D

At our Car Coffee
meeting this morning have a lead for a 1975 Triumph Spitfire 
with O/D for
$3200.00 or Best Offer. 

The car was stored
for a number of years with the prior owner paying over 
$30,000.00. Believe
he has extra Spitfire engine and Misc parts.
The car was recently
purchase in a lot of 3 Triumph cars.  He sold the TR3 for 
$2500.00 and still
has a early 58' TR3 small mouth.  All car have good titles.

If you have any
interest, can contact Lou Hegler, Aston MD 20861 
I am sending a copy
of this e-mail to Lou. carsforever at gmail.com 
Pictures will be
sent on request.

Pete Groh (KeyGuy) 
Ellicott City MD 

>From [email-masked]
From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2014 12:01:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 1960 Triumph TR3A tire questions

So I think it's time for new tires for my TR3A-1960.  The current tires are Michelin 165 SR 15 on wire wheels.  As a kid, I seem to remember that the tires had inner tubes. How do I determine when I need tires, if they need new inner tubes?     

Ann

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2014 21:32:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] 1960 Triumph TR3A tire questions

---- Ann Carletta <anncarletta at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> So I think it's time for new tires for my TR3A-1960.  The current tires are Michelin 165 SR 15 on wire wheels.  
> As a kid, I seem to remember that the tires had inner tubes. How do I determine when I need tires, if they need new inner tubes?     

Usually just a visual on the tubes will tell you, assuming they still hold air.  Any signs of deterioration, like cracking around the base of the valve stem, is cause for replacement.  Also pinch a fold of tube in your fingers and see if any cracks show up that way.  

There's actually something to be said for just replacing them every time, depending on how often you change tires.  Lots of people don't drive their TRs enough to wear out a set of modern radial tires within a decade, and tubes don't live much longer than tires do.  Just like the tires, the tubes get old even if you don't drive the car.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2014 18:23:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Wiper mounts

List,

 What's the secret to getting new rubber wiper motor mounts installed. Difficult to believe the original Lucas parts were as hard as these repros.

Ed Woods

>From [email-masked]
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2014 14:37:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wiper mounts
References: <[email-masked]>

On what car?

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

1957 Triumph TR3
1961 Jaguar Mark 2
1975 Triumph TR6
1997 Land Rover Discovery

On 5/10/2014 2:23 PM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote:
> List,
>
>   What's the secret to getting new rubber wiper motor mounts installed. Difficult to believe the original Lucas parts were as hard as these repros.
>
> Ed Woods
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

>From [email-masked]
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2014 19:04:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Wiper mounts

TR3

----- Original Message -----
From: "George Richardson" <gpr at key-men.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2014 2:37:08 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Wiper mounts

On what car?

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

1957 Triumph TR3
1961 Jaguar Mark 2
1975 Triumph TR6
1997 Land Rover Discovery

On 5/10/2014 2:23 PM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote:
> List,
>
> B  What's the secret to getting new rubber wiper motor mounts installed.
Difficult to believe the original Lucas parts were as hard as these repros.
>
> Ed Woods
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net

>From [email-masked]
From: tfansher at comcast.net (Thomas Fansher)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2014 15:06:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wiper mounts
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Soak in hot water and use liquid soap.
Tom

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 10, 2014, at 2:37 PM, George Richardson <gpr at key-men.com> wrote:
>
> On what car?
>
> George Richardson
> Key Men - Keys for Classics
> www.key-men.com
>
> 1957 Triumph TR3
> 1961 Jaguar Mark 2
> 1975 Triumph TR6
> 1997 Land Rover Discovery
>
>> On 5/10/2014 2:23 PM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote:
>> List,
>>
>>  What's the secret to getting new rubber wiper motor mounts installed.
Difficult to believe the original Lucas parts were as hard as these repros.
>> Ed Woods

>From [email-masked]
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2014 16:59:18 -0600
Subject: [TR] Wiper mounts
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Agree with Tom.  Assuming they are similar to those on a TR4A, I also used a 
dull flat screwdriver.

Cliff

-----Original Message----- 
From: Thomas Fansher
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2014 1:06 PM
To: George Richardson
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Wiper mounts

Soak in hot water and use liquid soap.
Tom

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 10, 2014, at 2:37 PM, George Richardson <gpr at key-men.com> wrote:
>
> On what car?
>
> George Richardson
> Key Men - Keys for Classics
> www.key-men.com
>
> 1957 Triumph TR3
> 1961 Jaguar Mark 2
> 1975 Triumph TR6
> 1997 Land Rover Discovery
>
>> On 5/10/2014 2:23 PM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote:
>> List,
>>
>>  What's the secret to getting new rubber wiper motor mounts installed.
Difficult to believe the original Lucas parts were as hard as these repros.
>> Ed Woods

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net 

>From [email-masked]
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2014 23:49:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Wiper mounts

List,

The Moss wiper mount rubber's simply are too hard to deform sufficiently to
enter the holes on the bracket. The originals are quite soft by comparison. I
had one from Vicky Brit which turned out to be pliable enough to fit, using a
flat bladed screwdriver and soap. The Moss insert did not respond to the hot
water treatment. I will order a pair from Vicky Brit. By the way, the washers
supplied with the Moss kit are incorrect as well. What is so difficult about
sending an original to your Taiwanese supplier, saying: "Make It Just Like
This"?

Ed Woods

----- Original Message -----

From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen at earthlink.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2014 6:59:18 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Wiper mounts

Agree with Tom. B Assuming they are similar to those on a TR4A, I also used a
dull flat screwdriver.

Cliff

-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Fansher
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2014 1:06 PM
To: George Richardson
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Wiper mounts

Soak in hot water and use liquid soap.
Tom

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 10, 2014, at 2:37 PM, George Richardson <gpr at key-men.com> wrote:
>
> On what car?
>
> George Richardson
> Key Men - Keys for Classics
> www.key-men.com
>
> 1957 Triumph TR3
> 1961 Jaguar Mark 2
> 1975 Triumph TR6
> 1997 Land Rover Discovery
>
>> On 5/10/2014 2:23 PM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote:
>> List,
>>
>> B What's the secret to getting new rubber wiper motor mounts installed.
Difficult to believe the original Lucas parts were as hard as these repros.
>> Ed Woods

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net

>From [email-masked]
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2014 08:15:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wiper mounts
References: <B6E87FBCC52041B98A9B8FEC0768A036@Shemp>
 <[email-masked]>

I did a set from Moss almost a year ago on a TR3.  PIA to install but they
did install and had no issue fitting to the car.

I almost wonder if you got incorrect parts or maybe they changed a Vendor.

>From [email-masked]
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2014 10:01:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Identifying Engine, Rear and Trans for TR3
References: <[email-masked]>
 <A241D4D2B6334920AB5D68CFFA47629E@bboffice>

For what it's worth,  my  early 1954  tr2's  engine is almost 200 higher
than the commission number.

Chris

>From [email-masked]
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2014 11:20:10 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: The Roadster Factory Extra: Double Sweetener This
 Weekend...

 Extra 5% off on TRF parts till tonight.  It was a mistake.

Craig 
72 Triumph TR6

----------Original Message----------
From: TRF Web Specials 

Date: May 9, 2014 5:59:31 PM
Subject: The Roadster Factory Extra: Double Sweetener This Weekend...
To: trfspecials at zeni.net

 This weekend?s Sweeteners are so good you might think we?ve made a mistake?And we have! But our mistake is your gain until 8:00 A.M. Monday morning! 

 Save 5% on Regular and Sale Pricing 

 Pay $5.00 Shipping (restrictions apply) 

 Plus, get more parts credit based on the value of your order.

 -- 

 The Roadster Factory: http://www.the-roadster-factory.com/ 
 Photo of the Week: http://www.zeni. net/potw.php 
 -- 
 This is an approximately weekly mailing to patrons of The Roadster Factory, PO Box 332, Armagh PA 15920. 
 To unsubscribe at any time, use this link from the address that you are subscribed under: 
 Unsubscribe 

>From [email-masked]
From: jdemuth at mac.com (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2014 16:04:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wiper mounts

Don't make yourself crazy, just cut them in half and install from the top and bottom. Who will ever know?

Sent from my iPad

>From [email-masked]
From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2014 15:19:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Thanks for the tire advice

Thanks to everyone who sent advice on the tires.  I found the same tires I had on Coker's site.  After all your feedback I called back and added the new inner tubes and the piece that protects the tubes/tire from the inner spokes of the wire wheels.  Took a few calls to get someone who can install wire wheels.  While the tread on the tires looked okay, turns out they are 2003 and they were beginning to crack, which is why I started looking for them to begin with.

Just waiting for delivery and then installation.

Thanks again for all you help.

Ann
1960 TR 3A

>From [email-masked]
From: hpspitfire at gmail.com (Aaron)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2014 11:07:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Spitfire parts at Carlisle

A friend of mine asked me to post this.  He has a large spitfire parts
collection he is starting to sell.

Fot
Please post something on te FOT that a former racer/collector of triumph
spit/gt6 will be at the Carlisle import swap this weekend looking to clear out
big parts of his collection.  He has competition/race parts you can ask about,
and he'll have a large collection of mech and body and trim parts at the show.
You can give them the email srcypher at yahoo.com

Thanks

>From [email-masked]
From: john.a.wise at mac.com (John Wise)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2014 15:38:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3a Hood Dzus Fastener
References: <[email-masked]>

I was trying to align the left right height on my TR3As hood, and realized
that the right Dzus Fastener had a thin washer between its cap &  the top of
hood & the Dzus Fastener, while the left one does not.  I ant to Lowes and
could not find a washer with both the proper outside diameter and hole size.
I bought one with the correct outside diameter but have not been able to drily
it out.

I was thinking that something like gasket material or a plastic washer might
be easier to work with and protect the hoods paint.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

John

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

>From [email-masked]
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2014 15:51:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Dayton wire wheels - quality issues?

Hello List:
Scouting around for a set of new wires for my '2. I would like to 
upgrade to 60 spokes and possibly a tubeless rim. I thought that Dayton 
would be the logical choice, but some of our local Healey guys have 
reported quality issues with some recent Daytons. Any credence to these 
stories? I
I can't think of an alternative to the Daytons, given the very real 
quality issues associated with the Indian made Dunlops.
Someone did mention an Anglo/Indian wheel assembled in the UK, but I 
couldn't find any info on these wheels.
Thanks for any insights on this one.
Angelo Graham

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2014 19:53:07 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3a Hood Dzus Fastener

---- John Wise <john.a.wise at mac.com> wrote:
> I was trying to align the left right height on my TR3As hood, and realized
> that the right Dzus Fastener had a thin washer between its cap &  the top
of
> hood & the Dzus Fastener, while the left one does not.

Could you be looking at the remains of the aluminum sleeve/grommet that goes
there?  They are available new from the usual suspects.

Or, get some measurements and check out MMC or Fastenal, etc. for what you
want.  Eg,
http://www.mcmaster.com/#95606a480/=rz9wg9

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2014 15:56:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Dayton wire wheels - quality issues?
References: <[email-masked]>

Angelo,
I have the tubeless 60 spoke Daytons on my TR250.  They are a few years old
now so not "recent" but I have had no quality issues with them at all.
Cheers,
Darrell

On Thu, May 15, 2014 at 3:51 PM, Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com>wrote:

> Hello List:
> Scouting around for a set of new wires for my '2. I would like to upgrade
> to 60 spokes and possibly a tubeless rim. I thought that Dayton would be
> the logical choice, but some of our local Healey guys have reported quality
> issues with some recent Daytons. Any credence to these stories? I
> I can't think of an alternative to the Daytons, given the very real
> quality issues associated with the Indian made Dunlops.
> Someone did mention an Anglo/Indian wheel assembled in the UK, but I
> couldn't find any info on these wheels.
> Thanks for any insights on this one.
> Angelo Graham
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/triumphs/tr250driver at gmail.com

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2014 15:23:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dayton wire wheels - quality issues?
References: <[email-masked]>

I had a set of 60 Spoke Dunlops on my '3 for about 4,000 miles before I sold
the car, no problems.  I did have them shipped directly to Hendrix Wire Wheel
for a good checking before mounting them on the car.

Sent from mobile Bill

On May 15, 2014, at 2:51 PM, Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com> wrote:

Hello List:
Scouting around for a set of new wires for my '2. I would like to upgrade to
60 spokes and possibly a tubeless rim. I thought that Dayton would be the
logical choice, but some of our local Healey guys have reported quality issues
with some recent Daytons. Any credence to these stories? I
I can't think of an alternative to the Daytons, given the very real quality
issues associated with the Indian made Dunlops.
Someone did mention an Anglo/Indian wheel assembled in the UK, but I couldn't
find any info on these wheels.
Thanks for any insights on this one.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2014 15:26:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3a Hood Dzus Fastener
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

You can buy that washer through TRF or Moss.   Or, you may be able to make you
adjust with extra packing under the bracket that attaches to the inner wing.

Sent from mobile Bill

On May 15, 2014, at 2:38 PM, John Wise <john.a.wise at mac.com> wrote:

I was trying to align the left right height on my TR3As hood, and realized
that the right Dzus Fastener had a thin washer between its cap &  the top of
hood & the Dzus Fastener, while the left one does not.  I ant to Lowes and
could not find a washer with both the proper outside diameter and hole size.
I bought one with the correct outside diameter but have not been able to
drily
it out.

I was thinking that something like gasket material or a plastic washer might
be easier to work with and protect the hoods paint.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

John

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

>From [email-masked]
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2014 22:07:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Kastner

What great house full of TRs here at Eagles Canyon Raceway. Who on the List is
here, or still coming?  Would like to put as many faces to familiar names as I
can this weekend.

Sadly, I don't have a drivable TR at the moment so if I don't run into you in
the TR paddock I'll be across the way with a pair of purple Mini Coopers or
riding a gold 1950 Douglas motorcycle around.

Hope to see ya,
Bill

>From [email-masked]
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 03:38:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Kastner

Hi Bill, 
Is it a Douglas Dragonfly? Are the Minis the classic version? 
I'm happy for you making the trip to Eagles Canyon and the Kastner Cup race. 
Sadly, this is the first Kastner Cup I've missed since Watkins Glen in '08. 
Keep us informed of the action. 

Dave H. 
Santa Cruz,Ca. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wbeech" <wbeech at flash.net> 
To: "car discussion Sports Triumph" <Triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2014 8:07:06 PM 
Subject: [TR] Kastner 

What great house full of TRs here at Eagles Canyon Raceway. Who on the List is 
here, or still coming? Would like to put as many faces to familiar names as I 
can this weekend. 

Sadly, I don't have a drivable TR at the moment so if I don't run into you in 
the TR paddock I'll be across the way with a pair of purple Mini Coopers or 
riding a gold 1950 Douglas motorcycle around. 

Hope to see ya, 
Bill 

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

>From [email-masked]
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 10:33:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] part inq.  follow up
References: <[email-masked]>

Just a follow up on my query a few days ago.

Yes part # 500321 was the correct part. It was a bit taller than the one 
extracted but it looks like it will compress to insure a good seal 
around the bolt.

Removal of the old seal was trouble free. Just a circlip.

Installed new filter and ran for about 10 minutes with no drip.

Funny, the part was only 57 years old and only heaven knows how many oil 
changes before it started to fail.

Bob

Hello,

My stock oil filter assembly is leaking a bit. I looked up the part on
the TR3 parts pdf and it lists it as part # 500321.

Is this the correct part for the 58 version of the oil filter assembly?
The Purolator verion?

Thanks,

Bob

>From [email-masked]
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 20:36:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Dayton wire wheels - quality issues?

I bought the painted Dunlop 60 spokes for my TR4A about three years
ago and have been very happy.  After hearing lots of stories about the
bad quality of the Dunlop's I was a little afraid of them.  But the
story I got at the time was that the painted Dunlop's are better than
the Dayton's now. Got them from Moss, took them to my local tire shop
that I've had do lots of wire wheels for me and they mounted and
balanced the tires.  No tubes, no issues with about 5000 miles on
them. Very smooth up to 70+ mph.

Ben....

On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 2:00 PM,  <triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Date: Thu, 15 May 2014 15:51:05 -0400
> From: Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Dayton wire wheels - quality issues?
> Message-ID: <53751AA9.4080501 at execulink.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Hello List:
> Scouting around for a set of new wires for my '2. I would like to
> upgrade to 60 spokes and possibly a tubeless rim. I thought that Dayton
> would be the logical choice, but some of our local Healey guys have
> reported quality issues with some recent Daytons. Any credence to these
> stories? I
> I can't think of an alternative to the Daytons, given the very real
> quality issues associated with the Indian made Dunlops.
> Someone did mention an Anglo/Indian wheel assembled in the UK, but I
> couldn't find any info on these wheels.
> Thanks for any insights on this one.
> Angelo Graham

>From [email-masked]
From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 20:45:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Parts needed

I am looking  for a good main wire harness for a 1976 TR6,
and a good black seat bottom for  72-76.

Email me back with price if you have either.

Thanks,

Al Salvatore

>From [email-masked]
From: tony at tonydrews.com (tony at tonydrews.com)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2014 01:49:21 +0000
Subject: [TR] Kastner
References: <[email-masked]>

I'm here in tr4 number 95, red with white stripes.

Tony Drews

Quoting Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net>:

> What great house full of TRs here at Eagles Canyon Raceway. Who on  
> the List is
> here, or still coming?  Would like to put as many faces to familiar  
> names as I
> can this weekend.
>
> Sadly, I don't have a drivable TR at the moment so if I don't run into you in
> the TR paddock I'll be across the way with a pair of purple Mini Coopers or
> riding a gold 1950 Douglas motorcycle around.
>
> Hope to see ya,
> Bill
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

>From [email-masked]
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 22:15:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Engine Woes

Friend in the club says his Spitfire suddenly started running on two cylinders
(ran a short errand, then problem started when he fired it back up), which
would be backed up by by his compression test numbers:

"Cylinder 1 and 2, zero compression.  Cylinders  3 and 4 =  120

No smoke, strange noises, etc.  Plugs 1 and 2 are dry."

The guy, who I don't know very well, but offered to help diagnose, says he
would not know where to start in diagnosing or fixing the issue, but has been
told possible head gasket.

That seems to sort of make sense, but is a blown head gasket likely to give
you zero compression?, would think the starter could spin it fast enough to
build some pressure even if you were getting some blowby with a head gasket
issue?  My thought would be a stuck or broken valve, but would be odd to have
this happen on two cylinders at the same time, same with a broken piston,
broken camshaft? broken crank? broken wouldn't be spinning the pulley if 1 & 2
aren't turning.

My thoughts are to definitely look at the valves with the cover off as the
motor is spun, as well as run another compression test, maybe feel If we are
getting and suction in 1 & 2,  and check the intake and exhaust for anything
that does not look right.

Anyway your thoughts on possible problems as well as some diagnostic tests
(don't have a leak down tester) I could help him with an a casual afternoon in
the garage.

Thanks, Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 22:06:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Engine Woes

> That seems to sort of make sense, but is a blown head gasket 
> likely to give
> you zero compression?,

I had a VW Rabbit (aka Golf) once where there was a piece of head gasket about 3/4 long missing.  It blew very close to zero on the
compression gauge (although might have been 5 psi, don't recall now).

> My thoughts are to definitely look at the valves with the 
> cover off as the

Absolutely.

> (don't have a leak down tester) 

No need if the compression test is showing the problem.  Leak down is only good for looking for leaks too small to detect with a
compression test.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2014 15:00:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Engine Woes
References: <[email-masked]>

Hi Greg,

If it were me, I'd pull the head and look particularly closely at the head
gasket in between cylinders 1 and 2. The fact that two adjacent cylinders are
showing 0 compression is what's got me suspicious.

Yes, if the leak is from one cylinder to the adjacent one, you would quite
possibly see no compression at all (or so little it doesn't register on the
gauge) in both cylinders. Those cylinders are out of phase with each other...
One likely has either exhaust or intake valve open, when the other is in the
compression stroke. This would allow all compression to be vented away, as
well as any ignition that's still occurring in either of those cylinders.

You might first want to carefully repeat the compression test a couple times,
just to make sure it's not a testing error. Then if it is confirmed there's 0
psi in both those cylinders, go ahead and pull the head.

Like Randall, I don't see much point of a leak down test in this case, once
you know there's no compression at all in those two cylinders. A stuck or
broken valve or valve spring is very unlikely, since two cylinders are
involved. So I also don't think you'll be able to tell much just from
inspecting the valve train with the valve cover off. It's going to require
deeper surgery than that.

The good news may be that all that's needed is a new head gasket. Of course,
probably a valve cover gasket, too. This is assuming all that's found is a
blown head gasket, the head bolts all stay put, and both they and the nuts are
reusable.

Keep us posted what you find!

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
amfoto1 at aol.com
'62 TR4 CT176602L
www.triumphowners.com/640

-----Original Message-----
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 22:15:00 -0500
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>T
o: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Engine Woes

Friend in the club says his Spitfire suddenly started running on two
cylinders(ran a short errand, then problem started when he fired it back up),
whichwould be backed up by by his compression test numbers:"Cylinder 1 and 2,
zero compression.  Cylinders  3 and 4 =  120No smoke, strange noises, etc.
Plugs 1 and 2 are dry."The guy, who I don't know very well, but offered to
help diagnose, says hewould not know where to start in diagnosing or fixing
the issue, but has beentold possible head gasket.That seems to sort of make
sense, but is a blown head gasket likely to giveyou zero compression?, would
think the starter could spin it fast enough tobuild some pressure even if you
were getting some blowby with a head gasketissue?  My thought would be a stuck
or broken valve, but would be odd to havethis happen on two cylinders at the
same time, same with a broken piston,broken camshaft? broken crank? broken
wouldn't be spinning the pulley if 1 & 2aren't turning.My thoughts are to
definitely look at the valves with the cover off as themotor is spun, as well
as run another compression test, maybe feel If we aregetting and suction in 1
& 2,  and check the intake and exhaust for anythingthat does not look
right.Anyway your thoughts on possible problems as well as some diagnostic
tests(don't have a leak down tester) I could help him with an a casual
afternoon inthe garage.Thanks, Greg Lemon

****************************************

>From [email-masked]
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2014 17:00:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire frames

A friend (not in Michigan) is cleaning out his barn and has several spitfire
frames he is willing to give away free.  He doesn't want to be bothered with
lots of enquiries, so if anyone is interested, reply to me and I will put
you in touch.

Andrew Uprichard

>From [email-masked]
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2014 16:08:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Engine Woes
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Thanks for all the replies on the Spitfire motor, I took a quick look today, 
pulling the head was not on the agenda, I just wanted to see if I could help 
with the diagnosis.

The valves are not stuck and seem to be working fine, no signs of oil in the 
coolant or vice versa, the car starts and runs pretty well for running on 
two cylinders (we didn't run it long, I just wanted to hear it).  I thought 
he had a compression tester, but turned out he had borrowed one from the 
local FLAPS, so no repeat compression test, but definitely little or no 
compression on 1 & 2, I stuck my finger in/by the spark plug hole while he 
cranked it with the ignition disconnected and although I could feel air 
moving I would describe it more like a breeze from the pistons than anything 
like appreciable compression on 1 & 2.

So my conclusion is--off with your head--I went through the basic steps with 
the guy, but he was kind of on the borderline of feeling up to it, will see 
if I can get someone that lives a little closer than me to him to supervise 
and think it would all get done in a couple weekends (depending on the speed 
of the machine shop.)

Greg Lemon

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2014 09:08:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Engine Woes
References: <0F.AB.11612.B6EE6735@cdptpa-oedge02>

my vote is blown head gasket.  btdt

>From [email-masked]
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2014 18:40:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] just a test message

I want to verify that my delivery status change took.

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

>From [email-masked]
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2014 18:41:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] just a test message
References: <[email-masked]>

Wow!
Not only did it work, it was steaming fast!

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

> From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 18 May 2014 18:40:49 -0500
> Subject: [TR] just a test message
>
> I want to verify that my delivery status change took.
>
> Rich White Central, IL USA
> '63 TR3B TCF###L
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

>From [email-masked]
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2014 20:41:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Windshield Washer Bottle

Hey Guys/Girls, my original windshield washer reservoir bottle finally
decided to disintegrate despite my futile attempts using RTV. So I need
another.

I know that the big 3 sell a look-alike replacement that doesn't fit, and
suggest replacing the mounting bracket, but I gotta believe that there's a
bottle out there that will fit the existing bracket. Anybody found one that
would fit?

Johnnie

'67 TR4A

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

>From [email-masked]
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2014 13:10:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] looking for a list memeber in or near Austin, TX

Sorry to blanket the list but I am trying to find someone in or near 
Austin, Tx.  If you are, please email me, need a  favor. Thanks, Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

>From [email-masked]
From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2014 11:45:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Triumph:  The Rise, Fall and Revival of an Icon

Triumph Motorcycles: The Rise, Fall and Revival of an Icon -- K at W

   Triumph Motorcycles: The Rise, Fall and Revival of an Ic...
By the early 2000s, Triumph motorcycles was the lowest-earning motorcycle brand in the U.S. How did it get back on track?  
View on knowledge.wharton.upe... Preview by Yahoo  

If ONLY this were about the car company rather than the motorcycle company...that being said, the article IS interesting to read...

Jamie Palmer

>From [email-masked]
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 07:32:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 - short front springs vs long springs

It's time for me to replace the front springs on my 63 TR4.  Currently it
has the short springs with the spacer blocks.  Is there any preference on
short vs long?

This is a street car not a show car so I'm not concerned about originality
I just want the best ride.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

Brad

>From [email-masked]
From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 07:41:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fitting hood latch/spring
References: <[email-masked]>

I recently purchased a hood latch/return spring on my TR3.  I attempted to 
install yesterday but it doesn't seem to fit correctly.  The four holes line 
up fine for the horizontal attaching pieces on the bottom of the support 
piece on the rear of the front shroud.  However, I can only get one side to 
line up with the shroud support bolts.  The other side is a good 1/2 inch 
from the support.  Is there supposed to be a spacer installed?  With the 
unit installed it seems to keep the hood about a quarter inch proud of the 
shroud along the middle of the hood.  The dzus fasteners fit fine though. 
Any information/pictures would be appreciated.
TIA
Pete 

>From [email-masked]
From: skip47 at gbis.com (Skip Gurnee)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 05:54:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 - short front springs vs long springs
References: <[email-masked]>

Short springs give you a stiffer ride, other parameters (coil diameter, wire 
diameter) being the same.  Assuming "best ride" is for you a softer ride, go 
for the long springs.
Skip Gurnee
64 TR4
66 TR4A

-----Original Message----- 
From: Brad Kahler
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 4:32 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR4 - short front springs vs long springs

It's time for me to replace the front springs on my 63 TR4.  Currently it
has the short springs with the spacer blocks.  Is there any preference on
short vs long?

This is a street car not a show car so I'm not concerned about originality
I just want the best ride.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

Brad

>From [email-masked]
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 19:21:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

I need ideas.  My 1974 TR6 has always run pretty cool, until recently.  Now, whether moving or not, the temp gauge goes to about 3/4 or a little above.  There is no sign of white smoke at startup or cruising, and there is no milkiness in the oil.  The engine runs smoothly, idles normally, and accelerates normally.  Here is a list of what I've done, each time checking for improvement with a drive.  No luck.

1. Checked the thermostat in water on the stove.  It opens at about 160 degrees.
2. Tightened the drive belt (it was a bit loose).
3. Flushed the system with radiator disconnected after removing the drain plug on the engine and poking through the sludge.  Water drained clean when I ran it into the thermostat opening, drain plug area, heater hose, and both radiator hoses.
4. Ran water through the radiator both ways and it seemed to move quickly and was clean.
5. Braced the air cowling which had sagged a bit in front of the radiator.
6. Put on a new thermostat.
7. Removed the water pump (3 years old).  It looks clean and turns smoothly.
8. Flushed the system again.  Water ran clean out of the pump opening before I replaced the pump (with new gasket).
8. Replaced the radiator with a new one.  I was desperate to make a fairly long drive Friday, but that now seems out of the question.  This buy really hurts!

I'm now at a loss.  Can you give me an idea for something else to check?

Thanks,

Tim Gaines
Clinton, SC

>From [email-masked]
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 19:38:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle
References: <725251.45.1400713325853.JavaMail.User@User-PC>
 <12880571.49.1400714482880.JavaMail.User@User-PC>

Wow - you have done a lot.  

I guess I'd want to know if the car really is running hot or not.  How about
buying or borrowing one of those infrared thermometer guns and seeing if the
car has a problem at all ?  It would be a shame to cancel the long drive
Friday on account of a bad gauge......................

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim
Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 7:21 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

I need ideas.  My 1974 TR6 has always run pretty cool, until recently.  Now,
whether moving or not, the temp gauge goes to about 3/4 or a little above.
There is no sign of white smoke at startup or cruising, and there is no
milkiness in the oil.  The engine runs smoothly, idles normally, and
accelerates normally.  Here is a list of what I've done, each time checking
for improvement with a drive.  No luck.

1. Checked the thermostat in water on the stove.  It opens at about 160
degrees.
2. Tightened the drive belt (it was a bit loose).
3. Flushed the system with radiator disconnected after removing the drain
plug on the engine and poking through the sludge.  Water drained clean when
I ran it into the thermostat opening, drain plug area, heater hose, and both
radiator hoses.
4. Ran water through the radiator both ways and it seemed to move quickly
and was clean.
5. Braced the air cowling which had sagged a bit in front of the radiator.
6. Put on a new thermostat.
7. Removed the water pump (3 years old).  It looks clean and turns smoothly.
8. Flushed the system again.  Water ran clean out of the pump opening before
I replaced the pump (with new gasket).
8. Replaced the radiator with a new one.  I was desperate to make a fairly
long drive Friday, but that now seems out of the question.  This buy really
hurts!

I'm now at a loss.  Can you give me an idea for something else to check?

Thanks,

Tim Gaines
Clinton, SC

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 23:53:03 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

---- Tim Gaines <mtgaines at presby.edu> wrote: 
> I need ideas.  My 1974 TR6 has always run pretty cool, until recently.  Now, whether moving or not, the temp gauge goes to about 3/4 or a little above. 

Did you check the voltage stabilizer?  If it fails, it will cause the temp gauge and fuel gauge to both read about 1/4 scale too high.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 0:00:15 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote: 
> Wow - you have done a lot.  
> 
> I guess I'd want to know if the car really is running hot or not.  How about
> buying or borrowing one of those infrared thermometer guns 

If you do, be warned that they can be wildly inaccurate when pointed at aluminum.  Mine will give readings that vary from 140F all the way up to 190F, just moving around to different spots on the aluminum tstat housing.

So 'shoot' one of the hoses or radiator tank instead of the thermostat housing.  They will give you a closer reading (though still not perfectly accurate, as the reading depends on the emissivity of the surface).

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 19:53:20 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

 Tim,

I just read all responses and have been going through the same thing with my 72 TR6.  Temp gauge always sat at the 6 o'clock position in the middle and never moved.  Not even when it was 100 degrees and I was sitting in traffic.

Got out this spring on the first hot day.  Sitting in traffic I see the gauge start moving toward the upper end.  Never got past 3/4 hot, and when I moved it went back down.

I did a flush myself, although I did not take the drain petock out at the block, mine is the original and if I snap that off, well, lets just say it would not be pretty.

I really thought I had a radiator leak, but after watching for a week or two, it does not leak.  I took the lead off of the temperature sensor, sanded it with some fine paper, and put it back on.

The issue appears to be resolved, after two good flushes, I filled with 50/50 and a half bottle of water wetter and it seems fine.  I am going to continue to monitor, because it really has not been hot enough to know for sure.

I have tried those temperature sensors and they give so many different readings I never feel like it really gives me a definite answer.

The voltage stabilizer is always a possibility, but on my car, neither the temp gauge or the fuel gauge have ever been 1/4 "wonky" (saw that on the Buckeye site).

Please post whatever you find out, and I will update when it gets hot.

Craig
72 Triumph TR6

On 05/21/14, Tim Gaines<mtgaines at presby.edu> wrote:
 
I need ideas. My 1974 TR6 has always run pretty cool, until recently. Now, whether moving or not, the temp gauge goes to about 3/4 or a little above. There is no sign of white smoke at startup or cruising, and there is no milkiness in the oil. The engine runs smoothly, idles normally, and accelerates normally. Here is a list of what I've done, each time checking for improvement with a drive. No luck.

1. Checked the thermostat in water on the stove. It opens at about 160 degrees.
2. Tightened the drive belt (it was a bit loose).
3. Flushed the system with radiator disconnected after removing the drain plug on the engine and poking through the sludge. Water drained clean when I ran it into the thermostat opening, drain plug area, heater hose, and both radiator hoses.
4. Ran water through the radiator both ways and it seemed to move quickly and was clean.
5. Braced the air cowling which had sagged a bit in front of the radiator.
6. Put on a new thermostat.
7. Removed the water pump (3 years old). It looks clean and turns smoothly.
8. Flushed the system again. Water ran clean out of the pump opening before I replaced the pump (with new gasket).
8. Replaced the radiator with a new one. I was desperate to make a fairly long drive Friday, but that now seems out of the question. This buy really hurts!

I'm now at a loss. Can you give me an idea for something else to check?

Thanks,

Tim Gaines
Clinton, SC

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

>From [email-masked]
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 21:59:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

Thanks for all the good suggestions.  I'm pretty sure the timing and the carb mixture are okay.  Also, the fuel gauge seems to be reading accurately (showing almost empty now and it is), so I'm not going after the voltage stabilizer yet.  I'm going to check the actual water temperature first thing tomorrow.  That makes so much sense; why didn't it occur to me?!  If it isn't all that hot, I'll sub in the sensor from my poor old Spitfire that hasn't seen the road in two years.  I just checked the VB catalog and the parts are the same.  If that doesn't do the job, then I guess I'll try retuning.

Thanks again.

Tim

>From [email-masked]
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 06:00:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Yes - I did blow my gasket (TR4)

The head gasket looked OK to me, but my head man pointed to where the
sealing ring  around the cylinder is broken. The pistons turn smoothly so
all seems OK down below. In addition, the exhaust manifold on the same low
compression cylinders was blown, and on inspection the manifold mating
surface on the head was a bit warped, as is manifold face . So, we'll true
up those surfaces.

The gasket I used first time was the copper variety. I'm thinking now to
use a modern thicker type, perhaps one from Remflex?
http://catalog.remflex.com/

As well, the machinest suggests I lower the compression, which I measured
at about 10:1 at rebuild four years ago. Any suggestions for a thicker
gasket?

Many thanks

John

>From [email-masked]
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 09:35:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

Tim,
 
It always seems to be "process of elimination" with these troubles so  
sometimes it helps to start with the easiest, least dirtiest job (and often  
most likely) culprits.....you can try the Spit temp sensor but even if that  
doesn't work, I would try a new sensor.  If that doesn't work, given all  that 
you've done, swap out another temp gauge....there's bound to be  someone in 
a local club around where you live who has a spare gauge stashed away  for 
a quick loaner.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs,  Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4 CT2052L  

In a message dated 5/21/2014 9:59:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
mtgaines at presby.edu writes:

Thanks  for all the good suggestions.  I'm pretty sure the timing and the 
carb  mixture are okay.  Also, the fuel gauge seems to be reading accurately  
(showing almost empty now and it is), so I'm not going after the voltage  
stabilizer yet.  I'm going to check the actual water temperature first  thing 
tomorrow.  That makes so much sense; why didn't it occur to  me?!  If it 
isn't all that hot, I'll sub in the sensor from my poor old  Spitfire that 
hasn't seen the road in two years.  I just checked the VB  catalog and the 
parts are the same.  If that doesn't do the job, then I  guess I'll try retuning.

Thanks again.

Tim

**  triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474 at aol.com

>From [email-masked]
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 09:52:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Yes - I did blow my gasket (TR4)
 mail.com>
References: <[email-masked]>

I'd suggest either the stock composite gasket (the ones from BP 
Northwest are now made in Germany and seem pretty decent) or the new 
type with fire rings for the head gasket.  For the Manifold gasket, 
the Remflex one is good at taking care of minor surface imperfections.

Tony Drews

At 08:00 AM 5/22/2014, Lee&John Howard wrote:
>The head gasket looked OK to me, but my head man pointed to where the
>sealing ring  around the cylinder is broken. The pistons turn smoothly so
>all seems OK down below. In addition, the exhaust manifold on the same low
>compression cylinders was blown, and on inspection the manifold mating
>surface on the head was a bit warped, as is manifold face . So, we'll true
>up those surfaces.
>
>The gasket I used first time was the copper variety. I'm thinking now to
>use a modern thicker type, perhaps one from Remflex?
>http://catalog.remflex.com/
>
>As well, the machinest suggests I lower the compression, which I measured
>at about 10:1 at rebuild four years ago. Any suggestions for a thicker
>gasket?
>
>Many thanks
>
>John
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

>From [email-masked]
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 13:52:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

> you might sub the gauge from the spit, too.

Yeah, I just did that, among other things.  Good news but not complete satisfaction.  First, the water temperature, according to our meat thermometer, never gets above 165 degrees, even while the gauge goes beyond 3/4 level (never used to quite reach 1/2).  After swapping in the sensor from the Spit, the result was the same.  Why is the hex head on that thing metric (18 mm)?!  After swapping in the temp gauge from the Spit, the result was the same again.  Now I've put the original gauge back (don't know why--just seemed right), and I'm going to order a new temp sensor right now.  Tomorrow I think I'll attempt my drive to Athens, GA for some NCAA tennis.  Am I being reckless?

Thanks again for all the good responses,

Tim  

----- Original Message -----
From: Chip19474 at aol.com
To: mtgaines at presby.edu, triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 9:35:51 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

In a message dated 5/21/2014 9:59:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, mtgaines at presby.edu writes: 

Thanks for all the good suggestions. I'm pretty sure the timing and the carb mixture are okay. Also, the fuel gauge seems to be reading accurately (showing almost empty now and it is), so I'm not going after the voltage stabilizer yet. I'm going to check the actual water temperature first thing tomorrow. That makes so much sense; why didn't it occur to me?! If it isn't all that hot, I'll sub in the sensor from my poor old Spitfire that hasn't seen the road in two years. I just checked the VB catalog and the parts are the same. If that doesn't do the job, then I guess I'll try retuning. 

Thanks again. 

Tim 

>From [email-masked]
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 11:15:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

Check your radiator cap?  There may be some crude in the return plunger
causing you to loose pressure. BTDT

Peter - 71 TR6

>From [email-masked]
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 15:39:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

Tim,

I'd say its time to check the voltage stabilizer.  My TR4A reads
nominally 10V, but if its an original bimetallic strip style unit you
have to check with a "slow" voltmeter since it cuts the power in and
out to get the 10V average.  If its a replacement solid-state one it
should read 10V.  OTOH, if you check it and its gives a steady reading
at battery voltage you know its bad.

Ben.....

> Message: 10
> Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 13:52:02 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Tim Gaines <mtgaines at presby.edu>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle
> Message-ID: <12621394.61.1400781011809.JavaMail.User at User-PC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
>> you might sub the gauge from the spit, too.
>
> Yeah, I just did that, among other things.  Good news but not complete
satisfaction.  First, the water temperature, according to our meat
thermometer, never gets above 165 degrees, even while the gauge goes beyond
3/4 level (never used to quite reach 1/2).  After swapping in the sensor from
the Spit, the result was the same.  Why is the hex head on that thing metric
(18 mm)?!  After swapping in the temp gauge from the Spit, the result was the
same again.  Now I've put the original gauge back (don't know why--just seemed
right), and I'm going to order a new temp sensor right now.  Tomorrow I think
I'll attempt my drive to Athens, GA for some NCAA tennis.  Am I being
reckless?
>
> Thanks again for all the good responses,
>
> Tim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Chip19474 at aol.com
> To: mtgaines at presby.edu, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 9:35:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle
>
>
> In a message dated 5/21/2014 9:59:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
mtgaines at presby.edu writes:
>
> Thanks for all the good suggestions. I'm pretty sure the timing and the carb
mixture are okay. Also, the fuel gauge seems to be reading accurately (showing
almost empty now and it is), so I'm not going after the voltage stabilizer
yet. I'm going to check the actual water temperature first thing tomorrow.
That makes so much sense; why didn't it occur to me?! If it isn't all that
hot, I'll sub in the sensor from my poor old Spitfire that hasn't seen the
road in two years. I just checked the VB catalog and the parts are the same.
If that doesn't do the job, then I guess I'll try retuning.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Tim
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 145
> ****************************************

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 20:13:06 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

---- Tim Gaines <mtgaines at presby.edu> wrote: 
> First, the water temperature, according to our meat thermometer, never gets above 165 degrees, 
<snip>
>  Am I being reckless?

I'd go for it.  Then afterwards, you can look for the grounding problem.  Mine turned out to be that the ground strap was loose at the timing cover.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 16:48:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle
References: <[email-masked]>

I wouldn't rule out the voltage stabilizer. Several years ago I  
started up at the beginning of the season and nearly pegged the temp  
gauge. Like you I checked a lot of other things and finally the  
stabilizer. They are easy to check with an analog volt meter (don't  
know how a digital would work). I don't remember how to hook it up but  
I found it on the internet, maybe the list archives. If it is working  
correctly, the needle will swing back and forth from 12 volts to  
something less so that the average is about 10 volts. If broken it  
will be steady at 12-14 volts.

Allen

>From [email-masked]
From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 20:05:24 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle
References: <[email-masked]>
 <12621394.61.1400781011809.JavaMail.User@User-PC>

While the Triumph I'm talking about wasn't a TR6, I had a similar problem
with the combi instrument on a '73 2000 saloon. The engine temp and fuel
gauges on the combi clock both gave higher engine temp and lower tank
content readings. Wasn't anything I could find that was amiss on info going
into the instruments but I eventually traced it to a bad earth (ground) on
the instrument stabiliser. Fitted a new one and still the same result. In
the end and more out of desperation than anything else, I fitted a separate
wire from stabiliser to a good earth on the car body. Problem fixed! Gauges
worked fine after that and no more trouble. Might be just that simple?

Jonmac

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim
Gaines
Sent: 22 May 2014 18:52
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

> you might sub the gauge from the spit, too.

Yeah, I just did that, among other things.  Good news but not complete
satisfaction.  First, the water temperature, according to our meat
thermometer, never gets above 165 degrees, even while the gauge goes beyond
3/4 level (never used to quite reach 1/2).  After swapping in the sensor
from the Spit, the result was the same.  Why is the hex head on that thing
metric (18 mm)?!  After swapping in the temp gauge from the Spit, the result
was the same again.  Now I've put the original gauge back (don't know
why--just seemed right), and I'm going to order a new temp sensor right now.
Tomorrow I think I'll attempt my drive to Athens, GA for some NCAA tennis.
Am I being reckless?

Thanks again for all the good responses,

Tim  

----- Original Message -----
From: Chip19474 at aol.com
To: mtgaines at presby.edu, triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 9:35:51 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

In a message dated 5/21/2014 9:59:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
mtgaines at presby.edu writes: 

Thanks for all the good suggestions. I'm pretty sure the timing and the carb
mixture are okay. Also, the fuel gauge seems to be reading accurately
(showing almost empty now and it is), so I'm not going after the voltage
stabilizer yet. I'm going to check the actual water temperature first thing
tomorrow. That makes so much sense; why didn't it occur to me?! If it isn't
all that hot, I'll sub in the sensor from my poor old Spitfire that hasn't
seen the road in two years. I just checked the VB catalog and the parts are
the same. If that doesn't do the job, then I guess I'll try retuning. 

Thanks again. 

Tim 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk

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>From [email-masked]
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 22:17:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

---- Allen Hess <allenhess at mgcarclub.com> wrote: 
> I wouldn't rule out the voltage stabilizer. 

> They are easy to check with an analog volt meter (don't  
> know how a digital would work).

Pretty much the same, you should see the voltage jump from battery voltage (roughly) to zero.  A digital meter may show you some values in between, but you should still see the extremes of battery voltage and zero.

If accessing the VS is more hassle than you want (I think it's on the back of the speedo for a TR6), you can just pull the wire off the sender for the temperature gauge and check from the wire to ground.  The gauge resistance is much lower than the voltmeter, so you will read the output from the VS.

In a pinch, you can even do this test with an (unpowered) test light.  The light should blink on and off if the VS is working.

Also, some suppliers are selling solid-state voltage stabilizers.  If you have one of those, the voltage will be a constant 10.0 volts rather than jumping from battery voltage to zero and back.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 19:11:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

THAT WAS IT!  I went out to refill the gas tank, and afterward the fuel gauge was pegged almost out of sight to the right.  Never saw that before, so I finally accepted the likelihood of a voltage stabilizer problem.  After reading Jonmac's post, I first looked for a loose ground at the stabilizer, and that is exactly what I found.  After tightening, the fuel gauge read full but not beyond, and the temp gauge stayed at its old spot, just below 1/2.  Finally, peace of mind!

Thank you all so much for your good advice and especially to Jonmac.  What a list!

Tim  

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Macartney" <john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk>
To: "Tim Gaines" <mtgaines at presby.edu>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 3:05:24 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

While the Triumph I'm talking about wasn't a TR6, I had a similar problem
with the combi instrument on a '73 2000 saloon. The engine temp and fuel
gauges on the combi clock both gave higher engine temp and lower tank
content readings. Wasn't anything I could find that was amiss on info going
into the instruments but I eventually traced it to a bad earth (ground) on
the instrument stabiliser. Fitted a new one and still the same result. In
the end and more out of desperation than anything else, I fitted a separate
wire from stabiliser to a good earth on the car body. Problem fixed! Gauges
worked fine after that and no more trouble. Might be just that simple?

Jonmac

>From [email-masked]
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 20:25:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installimg TR4A door panels

So I have my new TR4A door panels with no holes for the door handle and window
crank. I do have a old set of panels with holes. What is a good way of cutting
those holes without damaging my new door panels?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

>From [email-masked]
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 17:24:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Installimg TR4A door panels
References: <267B7F1194894234A7A9004B70B2E0A1@DaveLaptop>

On May 22, 2014, at 5:25 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:

> So I have my new TR4A door panels with no holes for the door handle and window
> crank. I do have a old set of panels with holes. What is a good way of cutting
> those holes without damaging my new door panels?

I installed the panels before cutting any holes, there should be enough stretch for them to go on.  Then use a razor blade to cut an X in the vinyl.

-Darrell

>From [email-masked]
From: 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2014 20:45:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installimg TR4A door panels
References: <267B7F1194894234A7A9004B70B2E0A1@DaveLaptop>

Are you saying that the hardboard has no holes for the Window and Door 
cranks? I believe that's how Moss makes them. Your best bet is to use your 
old panels as a guide and cut a 1" or 1-1/8" hole using a Forstner bit. ( 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#forstner-drill-bits/=s2z65u ) They're best used in 
a drill press, have no center point protruding past the cutting edge so you 
can cut the board without catching any vinyl. If you decide to use a spade 
bit, I'd first drill a small hole through the hardboard from the backside 
and then use an awl to punch through the vinyl. Now that you've found the 
center of the hole, use a cutting punch to cut about a 1/4" hole in the 
vinyl. That should be enough to avoid the spade center point catching the 
vinyl. Then very carefully drill through the back of the panel with your 
spade bit

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm
Custom Interiors & Boot Covers
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FenderBlanket.htm
Fender Blankets

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave Connitt
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 8:25 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Installimg TR4A door panels

So I have my new TR4A door panels with no holes for the door handle and 
window
crank. I do have a old set of panels with holes. What is a good way of 
cutting
those holes without damaging my new door panels?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

>From [email-masked]
From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2014 09:04:58 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle
References: <[email-masked]>
 <3158343.136.1400800283986.JavaMail.User@User-PC>

Glad you got it sorted, Tim. 

Jonmac 
Grad. I.L.E.A.
(Graduate of the Institute of Lucas Electrical Aromas) 

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim
Gaines
Sent: 23 May 2014 00:11
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

THAT WAS IT!  I went out to refill the gas tank, and afterward the fuel
gauge was pegged almost out of sight to the right.  Never saw that before,
so I finally accepted the likelihood of a voltage stabilizer problem.  After
reading Jonmac's post, I first looked for a loose ground at the stabilizer,
and that is exactly what I found.  After tightening, the fuel gauge read
full but not beyond, and the temp gauge stayed at its old spot, just below
1/2.  Finally, peace of mind!

Thank you all so much for your good advice and especially to Jonmac.  What a
list!

Tim  

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Macartney" <john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk>
To: "Tim Gaines" <mtgaines at presby.edu>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 3:05:24 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] TR6 overheating puzzle

While the Triumph I'm talking about wasn't a TR6, I had a similar problem
with the combi instrument on a '73 2000 saloon. The engine temp and fuel
gauges on the combi clock both gave higher engine temp and lower tank
content readings. Wasn't anything I could find that was amiss on info going
into the instruments but I eventually traced it to a bad earth (ground) on
the instrument stabiliser. Fitted a new one and still the same result. In
the end and more out of desperation than anything else, I fitted a separate
wire from stabiliser to a good earth on the car body. Problem fixed! Gauges
worked fine after that and no more trouble. Might be just that simple?

Jonmac

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
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>From [email-masked]
From: perryfly at gmail.com (Perry Hammock)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2014 14:30:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission noise - TR3A w/Overdrive

well, tuesday night, after a stinging Pacers loss, I was driving home.
 Stopped at a corner, made a right turn in 1st gear and got a noise like th
gearbox equivalent of the card in the spokes.  Soon as i shifted to second,
no noise. Nor 3rd or 4th.  Bur every time in 1st, the noise is constant,
tied to speed, and sounds like you had something hitting against gear
teeth.  Pretty loudly, not to be ignored. But constant, consistent, not
like something loose randomly bouncing around in the case.
Drat.  THis  is a big driving weekend.  I am hoping to find something minor
( please God) when I take the top cover off tomorrow morning and start
poking around.  Any BTDT in the forum crowd?

Thanks in advance for your creative wisdom

Perry Hammock
1960 TR3A

>From [email-masked]
From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2014 14:48:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission noise - TR3A w/Overdrive
References: <CAMZHkheZX2D5Vv0crQ_R92Y96cRdpwxvRkgGO=8=[email-masked]>

Sounds like a chipped tooth or missing tooth on first gear. Common on a
non-synchro
gear box. Might also make the noise in reverse.

Dean T.

On May 23, 2014, at 2:30 PM, Perry Hammock wrote:

> well, tuesday night, after a stinging Pacers loss, I was driving home.
> Stopped at a corner, made a right turn in 1st gear and got a noise like th
> gearbox equivalent of the card in the spokes.  Soon as i shifted to second,
> no noise. Nor 3rd or 4th.  Bur every time in 1st, the noise is constant,
> tied to speed, and sounds like you had something hitting against gear
> teeth.  Pretty loudly, not to be ignored. But constant, consistent, not
> like something loose randomly bouncing around in the case.
> Drat.  THis  is a big driving weekend.  I am hoping to find something minor
> ( please God) when I take the top cover off tomorrow morning and start
> poking around.  Any BTDT in the forum crowd?
>
> Thanks in advance for your creative wisdom
>
> Perry Hammock
> 1960 TR3A
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58 at verizon.net

>From [email-masked]
From: rsuncloud at gmail.com (RH (Bob) Harrison, CSMP)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2014 19:01:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1960 TR-3 in parts

I surrender
I finally get my TR-3 serial number 87000?? completely torn down to nuts
and bolts and powder coated (black) the frame & then I took a short term
job out of town.  That was two years ago and I don't have a lot of hope
that at 62 I will be able to re-establish myself back in Las Vegas and put
it back together.  She is no beauty queen but decent except for the 20
pounds of filler the expert bondo man from Chicago filled the rear fenders
with.  The engine has bad rings in cylinder number 4 and let's face it I
tore it down to redo it.
There is no one in Las Vegas who ever showed any British interest and I
think it may be time to move on.
Any ideas?? 702-460-9999
I don't want to throw away my dream but not sure what to do.  The good news
is all of the parts are in a single 20 cargo container

*Safe work practices protect your future*
RH (Bob) Harrison, CSMP
702-460-9999

>From [email-masked]
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Sat, 24 May 2014 09:03:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A outside door handles

Ibve opted to refresh, rather than replace, the outside door handles.  I
disassembled them and found one of the two torsion springs broken.  These
springs aid in the return of the lock cylinder to its neutral position, I
think.  The springs are small gauge (0.015b), 3 coils, about 0.8b inside
diameter.  Anybody know how to locate a suitable replacement?  Ibve looked
locally for spring wire to make my own, without success.

Thanks,

Cliff

>From [email-masked]
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Sat, 24 May 2014 10:01:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A outside door handles
References: <8AA4CA5BE0BA48E08C3F19A7ED9C4DB5@Shemp>

I mis-measured, and for some reason my inch symbols don't translate.  The 
wire diameter is 0.038 inches and inside diameter is 0.71 inches.

Cliff

-----Original Message----- 
From: Cliff Hansen
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2014 9:03 AM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] TR4A outside door handles

Ibve opted to refresh, rather than replace, the outside door handles.  I
disassembled them and found one of the two torsion springs broken.  These
springs aid in the return of the lock cylinder to its neutral position, I
think.  The springs are small gauge (0.015b
), 3 coils, about 0.8b
 inside
diameter.  Anybody know how to locate a suitable replacement?  Ibve looked
locally for spring wire to make my own, without success.

Thanks,

Cliff

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net 

>From [email-masked]
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 24 May 2014 09:02:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 1960 TR-3 in parts
References: <[email-masked]>

Bob
a short trip down the 15 freeway will find you in temecula california.
there you will find 3 friends and i who love helping each other build our
TR3's.
come join us, and we will help you build
:-)
Frank
On Friday, May 23,
2014 4:02 PM, "RH (Bob) Harrison, CSMP" <rsuncloud at gmail.com> wrote:

I
surrender
I finally get my TR-3 serial number 87000?? completely torn down to
nuts
and bolts and powder coated (black) the frame & then I took a short term
job out of town.  That was two years ago and I don't have a lot of hope
that
at 62 I will be able to re-establish myself back in Las Vegas and put
it back
together.  She is no beauty queen but decent except for the 20
pounds of
filler the expert bondo man from Chicago filled the rear fenders
with.  The
engine has bad rings in cylinder number 4 and let's face it I
tore it down to
redo it.
There is no one in Las Vegas who ever showed any British interest and
I
think it may be time to move on.
Any ideas?? 702-460-9999
I don't want to
throw away my dream but not sure what to do.  The good news
is all of the
parts are in a single 20 cargo container

*Safe work practices protect your
future*
RH (Bob) Harrison, CSMP
702-460-9999

** triumphs at autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 24 May 2014 09:48:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A outside door handles

> The springs are small gauge (0.015b), 3 coils, about
> 0.8b inside
> diameter.  Anybody know how to locate a suitable replacement?

I see that MMC offers to locate torsion springs to your specification.
Doesn't give pricing, but might not be too bad.
http://www.mcmaster.com/?m=true#torsion-springs/=s3u1ja
(scroll to the bottom)

>  Ibve looked
> locally for spring wire to make my own, without success.

I have found spring wire (aka piano wire) at my local Orchard Supply Hardware
(OSH).  But MMC also carries the wire, if you can't
find it locally.
http://www.mcmaster.com/?m=true#piano-wire/=s3u2id

Or it would likely be cheaper at Amazon, if you happen to have Amazon Prime
(and don't live near a MMC warehouse).
http://tinyurl.com/p4qa7ec

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Sat, 24 May 2014 16:19:15 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A outside door handles
References: <3C.08.06231.25DC0835@cdptpa-oedge02>

Yay!  I found music wire at a RC hobby store, $2 for 12 feet, makes a very 
nice spring.

Now to find that microscopic spring that sprang out of the wiper switch I 
hope to repair into whonoswhere in the shop.

Cliff

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2014 10:48 AM
To: 'Cliff Hansen' ; 'list Triumph'
Subject: RE: [TR] TR4A outside door handles

> The springs are small gauge (0.015b
), 3 coils, about
> 0.8b
 inside
> diameter.  Anybody know how to locate a suitable replacement?

I see that MMC offers to locate torsion springs to your specification. 
Doesn't give pricing, but might not be too bad.
http://www.mcmaster.com/?m=true#torsion-springs/=s3u1ja
(scroll to the bottom)

>  Ibve looked
> locally for spring wire to make my own, without success.

I have found spring wire (aka piano wire) at my local Orchard Supply 
Hardware (OSH).  But MMC also carries the wire, if you can't
find it locally.
http://www.mcmaster.com/?m=true#piano-wire/=s3u2id

Or it would likely be cheaper at Amazon, if you happen to have Amazon Prime 
(and don't live near a MMC warehouse).
http://tinyurl.com/p4qa7ec

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2014 12:34:55 -0600
Subject: [TR] WTB: TR4A 2 speed wiper switch

Ibve lost hope of finding that tiny errant spring.  Would anyone have a
wiper switch in any condition that they would be willing to sell?

The replacements look to be toggle switches without a knob.

Thanks,

Cliff

>From [email-masked]
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2014 15:04:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] instrument light bulb holder wanted

Does anyone have a spare instrument light bulb holder that they don't need.
A photo can be found at the following link as what it looks like. For some
reason, it was cut off from the rest of the wiring loom. it supplies light
to the large speedo.

Regards, Sujit

sujitroy at yahoo.com

https://picasaweb.google.com/117919914615655231803/May272014

>From [email-masked]
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2014 16:22:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] Just checking

Making progress on Team.Net.

mjb.

>From [email-masked]
From: 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2014 21:04:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor

I recently had a TR6 spare water pump rebuilt by The Flying Dutchman and one 
of his options is a 6 vane impellor. I installed the pump last week and had 
the upper coolant hose (thermostat to manifold) burst yesterday. Between 
then and now, it covered over 250 highway miles with no problems. In 
examining the hose I can see where it was full of cracks and check marks so 
the failure is probably coincidence. As a result of my problem there's a 
discussion in 6-Pack on the advantage/disadvantage of a 6 vane water pump.

One group feels there's less cavitation and more volume pumped through the 
system.

Another group feels it pumps the water through the system too fast and the 
radiator can't cool it properly so the car runs hotter. Another view was 
that with the thermostat closed it could increase the pressure and expose 
the hose as a fail point.

All speculation and theory so........ does anyone know the 
advantages/disadvantages of 4 vs 6 vane? Rimmer and Racetorations both sell 
it as an upgrade to the cooling system

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm
Custom Interiors & Boot Covers
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FenderBlanket.htm
Fender Blankets 

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2014 03:16:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor

> All speculation and theory so........ does anyone know the 
> advantages/disadvantages of 4 vs 6 vane? 

Water pump design is an extremely complicated topic, even for a pump running at constant rpm, let alone with the widely varying rpm,
head and flow parameters that are inherent in automotive cooling systems.  And the number of vanes is a relatively minor variable in
the performance of the pump.  Things like vane shape, clearances, housing shape and so on have a much larger effect on results.  So,
my opinion is that it is impossible to state categorically that a 4 vane pump is better or worse than a 6 vane.  

In other words, this discussion is futile, until and unless someone gets a sample of each specific pump and does some specific
performance tests on it.  Even then, it is going to be hard to say which is "better", since I've never seen any evidence that lack
of water flow is a problem with our engines.

One thing, though, there is no such thing as "moving the water too fast so the radiator can't cool it".  A long-persistent myth,
perpetuated by those who slept through high school physics (or took auto shop instead).  What can happen on cars with the pressure
cap on the high pressure side of the radiator (like the TR2-6) is that the pressure differential across the radiator rises so high
that the cap opens and lets coolant blow out the overflow.  THEN the engine overheats, due to lack of coolant flow (and coolant).
I've also seen non-TR engines where the hose on the low pressure side would literally suck closed, blocking off the flow.

My own experiments with 4 vs 6 (on a TR3 motor) showed no measurable difference in cooling performance.  But I didn't bother taking
any flow or pressure measurements.  With a stock 4 vane pump, and adequate airflow through the radiator, the engine stays cool even
in 115F weather (which is more than the driver can stand).

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2014 06:19:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor
References: <A7C307D0E3BE40B18FA51EFD527EBFBE@DELLPC>

On May 25, 2014, at 6:04 PM, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org>
wrote:

> Another group feels it pumps the water through the system too fast and the
radiator can't cool it properly so the car runs hotter.

Im only a software engineer, but Ive always been skeptical of this argument.
Sure, perhaps per unit volume less heat will be removed as the coolant moves
faster, but you will have more volume going through, so it should balance out.
Also, I think the larger differential between the coolant and outside air
temperature makes the heat exchange more efficient, so having the coolant move
faster would mean more area of the radiator would experience a larger
temperature differential.  I mean, if I pour boiling water really fast across
my arm it wont burn me, because it will be moving too fast?

Or this may indeed be a real concern, and a case where common sense doesnt
match the physics.

-Darrell

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

>From [email-masked]
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2014 13:24:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Blown Gasket TR4 part III

I got back to the car yesterday and found that liner #1 protruded far
beyond spec at .010. I assembled a few tubes and washers to simulate the
factory liner hold down tool and managed to press the liner down to .005,
just at spec.  So, this is what probably caused the blow-out, although I
wonder if simply turning the crank with the head off might have caused the
liner to lift.

Whatever ( as the grandkids say ad nauseum) - I'm going with the too-high
liner as the cause, and will use a new and thicker gasket from British
Parts Northwest. Plus new studs - I'm springing for the ARP's.

As for the exhaust manifold, I'm cutting off the headers ( behind the
collection point) and having its face trued up. Same with the manifold face
on the head - flattened and new matched studs.  Standard heavy duty gaskets
from Moss.

Should be back on the road in a week! Yeah, right.

Thanks again

John Howard

>From [email-masked]
From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2014 23:37:24 +0100
Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor
References: <A7C307D0E3BE40B18FA51EFD527EBFBE@DELLPC>
 <32.F3.31957.D87B5835@cdptpa-oedge01>

Randall wrote:

"Even then, it is going to be hard to say which is "better", since I've
never seen any evidence that lack of water flow is a problem with our
engines."

Far be it from me to challenge our technical guru on any technical aspect of
Standard-Triumph engineering standards, but I think there's a possibility
Randall that you may not have 'explored' as many Stag blocks as I have over
the years :)? I know you have a number of misgivings about the Stag V8 as a
whole and I respect you for that because you're entitled to your opinion.

However, it needs to be noted the Stag engine did have a number of serious
flaws on the Mk 1 model to do with cooling issues and these were:

A water pump that wasn't up to the job in terms of moving the amount of
water required of it. This was down to the Purchasing Department accepting a
smaller vaned pump was just as acceptable as the one specified by
Engineering - and for the simple fact it was cheaper.

A radiator that wasn't up to the job in terms of size or cooling capability.
Again, Purchasing entirely believed Coventry Radiator and Presswork in
foisting an untried "but just as good" unit.

Warped cylinder heads caused by overheated water adversely affecting the
head alloy that once again, dear old Purchasing insisted was acceptable
because it was cheaper than the grade laid down by Engineering and which in
the several prototype cars had never caused any trouble. They reverted to
the correct alloy with the Mk 2 and head warpage was mostly a thing of the
past.

Finally, we can point a very accusatory finger at Birmid Qualcast who was
the cylinder block foundry supplier (as they were for all other 4 and 6 pot
engines) for incompetence in entirely failing to ensure casting media and
foundry sand was by no means fully removed from all the blocks they
supplied. When Joe Pawlak and his team of Busted Knucklers at ISOA rebuilt
the engine for 'uncle jack' , Joe removed about half a pound of foundry
sand, bits of bent wire and solid sand core from that block. He gave it to
me as a present the following year when he came to the UK to stay with us
and commented that in his opinion it was that junk which had caused head
warpage on the car in the dim and distant past when they started tearing
down the unit. It's worth mentioning that I drove that car over 18,000 miles
in some pretty hot weather in 2009 and kept a detailed log of all top-ups,
oil changes and fuel used throughout the trip. It was in Tallahassee FL (and
at the start of the journey) where I added just three paper cups of water
from a hotel water fountain. This was because I'd discovered (and sorted) an
airlock in the heater - and I never had to touch it again until the last day
but one of the trip when I added another single cup in Grand Junction on the
way to Glenn Merrell's place near Denver. This was after Texas, Canadian
prairie, driving up Pike's Peak fairly rapidly, the Rockies and all down the
West Coast. Come to that, over that journey I only used a quart and a half
of oil in top ups, apart from oil changes at 3,000 mile intervals.

Cooling-wise and after his superb rebuild, 'uncle jack' was what all Stags
*should* have been from the outset - but so few ever were.

Jonmac

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

>From [email-masked]
From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2014 08:12:12 +0100
Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor
References: <A7C307D0E3BE40B18FA51EFD527EBFBE@DELLPC>
 <32.F3.31957.D87B5835@cdptpa-oedge01>

Randall wrote:
I've never seen any evidence that lack of water flow is a problem with our
engines.

Oh Fountainhead of such unquestionable knowledge, may I most respectfully
suggest you do a quick spool-back and exclude the Stag V8? :)
It was a mountain of trouble on the cooling side of things and mostly caused
by the Purchasing Department at STI over-riding Engineering in provisioning
water pumps, radiators and cylinder heads of a quality that was inconsistent
with Engineering spec  - and  all on the grounds of cost. As a result, the
people responsible were fired and justly so. The only other fly in the
ointment was the foundry Birmid Qualcast, who supplied the cylinder blocks
that still had part of the casting cores embedded deep inside them and no
small amount of foundry sand blocking coolant passages. Apart from those
'minor' issues which effectively killed the Stag in its first two years
(some say less) I don't think it had other key problems. It's bete-noire was
cooling. Period.

Cheers, Jonmac

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

>From [email-masked]
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2014 08:26:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor
References: <A7C307D0E3BE40B18FA51EFD527EBFBE@DELLPC>
 <32.F3.31957.D87B5835@cdptpa-oedge01>
 <[email-masked]>

thank you for that, John.  for those interested in the stag, wikipedia has
an interesting article that discusses some of the engineering goals and
missteps.  I found it rather interesting.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triumph_Stag

and, of course, Top Gear's excellent portrayal: 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGJty_Rdp1U&feature=kp

-----Original Message----- 
From: John Macartney
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2014 5:37 PM
To: 'Randall' ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor

Randall wrote:

"Even then, it is going to be hard to say which is "better", since I've
never seen any evidence that lack of water flow is a problem with our
engines."

Far be it from me to challenge our technical guru on any technical aspect of
Standard-Triumph engineering standards, but I think there's a possibility
Randall that you may not have 'explored' as many Stag blocks as I have over
the years :)? I know you have a number of misgivings about the Stag V8 as a
whole and I respect you for that because you're entitled to your opinion.

However, it needs to be noted the Stag engine did have a number of serious
flaws on the Mk 1 model to do with cooling issues and these were:

A water pump that wasn't up to the job in terms of moving the amount of
water required of it. This was down to the Purchasing Department accepting a
smaller vaned pump was just as acceptable as the one specified by
Engineering - and for the simple fact it was cheaper.

A radiator that wasn't up to the job in terms of size or cooling capability.
Again, Purchasing entirely believed Coventry Radiator and Presswork in
foisting an untried "but just as good" unit.

Warped cylinder heads caused by overheated water adversely affecting the
head alloy that once again, dear old Purchasing insisted was acceptable
because it was cheaper than the grade laid down by Engineering and which in
the several prototype cars had never caused any trouble. They reverted to
the correct alloy with the Mk 2 and head warpage was mostly a thing of the
past.

Finally, we can point a very accusatory finger at Birmid Qualcast who was
the cylinder block foundry supplier (as they were for all other 4 and 6 pot
engines) for incompetence in entirely failing to ensure casting media and
foundry sand was by no means fully removed from all the blocks they
supplied. When Joe Pawlak and his team of Busted Knucklers at ISOA rebuilt
the engine for 'uncle jack' , Joe removed about half a pound of foundry
sand, bits of bent wire and solid sand core from that block. He gave it to
me as a present the following year when he came to the UK to stay with us
and commented that in his opinion it was that junk which had caused head
warpage on the car in the dim and distant past when they started tearing
down the unit. It's worth mentioning that I drove that car over 18,000 miles
in some pretty hot weather in 2009 and kept a detailed log of all top-ups,
oil changes and fuel used throughout the trip. It was in Tallahassee FL (and
at the start of the journey) where I added just three paper cups of water
from a hotel water fountain. This was because I'd discovered (and sorted) an
airlock in the heater - and I never had to touch it again until the last day
but one of the trip when I added another single cup in Grand Junction on the
way to Glenn Merrell's place near Denver. This was after Texas, Canadian
prairie, driving up Pike's Peak fairly rapidly, the Rockies and all down the
West Coast. Come to that, over that journey I only used a quart and a half
of oil in top ups, apart from oil changes at 3,000 mile intervals.

Cooling-wise and after his superb rebuild, 'uncle jack' was what all Stags
*should* have been from the outset - but so few ever were.

Jonmac

>From [email-masked]
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2014 07:39:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor

>From my old VW days, when there were a number of oil pump options including
high pressure and high volume.
As I remember the high pressure had more vanes, the high volume had longer
vanes.
And, I believe, Melling, the choice for VW oil pumps, no longer supplies the
high pressure, only the high volume.

Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6

>From [email-masked]
From: pethier7 at gmail.com (Philip Ethier)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2014 15:33:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor
References: <A7C307D0E3BE40B18FA51EFD527EBFBE@DELLPC>
 <32.F3.31957.D87B5835@cdptpa-oedge01>
 <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

> -----Original Message----- From: John Macartney
> Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2014 5:37 PM
> To: 'Randall' ; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor
>
> When Joe Pawlak and his team of Busted Knucklers at ISOA rebuilt
> the engine for 'uncle jack' , Joe removed about half a pound of foundry
> sand, bits of bent wire and solid sand core from that block.

Joe showed it to me.  I should have photogrphed it.

> He gave it to
> me as a present the following year when he came to the UK to stay with us
> and commented that in his opinion it was that junk which had caused head
> warpage on the car in the dim and distant past when they started tearing
> down the unit. It's worth mentioning that I drove that car over 18,000
> miles
> in some pretty hot weather in 2009 and kept a detailed log of all top-ups,
> oil changes and fuel used throughout the trip. It was in Tallahassee FL
> (and
> at the start of the journey) where I added just three paper cups of water
> from a hotel water fountain. This was because I'd discovered (and sorted)
> an
> airlock in the heater - and I never had to touch it again until the last
> day
> but one of the trip when I added another single cup in Grand Junction on
> the
> way to Glenn Merrell's place near Denver. This was after Texas, Canadian
> prairie, driving up Pike's Peak fairly rapidly, the Rockies and all down
> the
> West Coast. Come to that, over that journey I only used a quart and a half
> of oil in top ups, apart from oil changes at 3,000 mile intervals.
>
> Cooling-wise and after his superb rebuild, 'uncle jack' was what all Stags
> *should* have been from the outset - but so few ever were.
>
> Jonmac

And I appreciate that!  I've never had a hint of overheating.

I had uncle jack out for a run on Wednesday to a club meeting and a small
car show in Bloomington.

He's showing a bit of an oil leak somewhere on the right side of the
engine, but no more than to show that he's English.  In the next month he
will be making a return trip to Thunder Bay for the Rendezvous, along the
scenic North Shore that Jonmac didn't get to see on his tour, having driven
the prairie from here to Winnipeg instead.

pethier at comcast.net still works also
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2014 09:30:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor

> Oh Fountainhead of such unquestionable knowledge, may I most 
> respectfully
> suggest you do a quick spool-back and exclude the Stag V8? :)

You are quite right, John, I was thinking only of the TR2-6, not the Stag nor other Triumphs that I have no experience with
(Spitfire, Herald, etc.).  I should have been more explicit.

> It's 
> bete-noire was
> cooling. Period.

I agree entirely, and yet I still feel that lack of water movement was not it's primary issue. Cooling systems, like chains, are
only as strong as their weakest link.  The Stags' biggest cooling problem (ignoring things like casting sand left inside the coolant
passages and heads that leak combustion gases into the coolant) appears to be lack of air flow through the radiator, combined with
insufficient surface area of the radiator.  The body design has limited area for air to flow into the radiator, and a largish open
space underneath the radiator that I believe allows air to "pile up" in the space behind the radiator, further blocking air flow.
Some folks have even observed that upgrading the radiator can be counter-productive, as the increased fin and tube count further
obstructs the air flow through the radiator.

As I'm sure you know, the Stag underwent several major redesigns of the cooling system.  Practically every component was changed at
least once.  And yet, the water pump itself was not changed during those early revisions.  They did eventually switch to a 12 vane
pump, but that was much later (after the Stag was no longer imported to the US).  The reasons for that change are debatable, but
since there were no other cooling changes at the time, the theory that it was a "parts consolidation" effort makes sense to me.

I own an early Stag, with the early cooling system completely stock except for a recored radiator.  When it runs hot, the water
coming back from the radiator is still almost as hot as what went in.  If the water flow was the limiting factor in cooling, then
the water coming back would be significantly cooler.

So, for TR2-6 and Stag, I still feel that lack of water flow is not the main source of cooling problems.  I've not tried running a
12 vane pump on my Stags; but I have tried going from 4 to 6 on my TR3, and it made NO detectable difference in cooling.  Once I
found and fixed the real problem, all the cooling problems disappeared like magic, even with a 4 vane pump.

YMMV of course.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2014 18:07:55 +0100
Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor
References: <[email-masked]>

Bob, I agree with the reply saying more flow should result on BETTER cooling,
all else being equal.  But not everything else is necessarily equal. I think
the biggest issue is laminar vs turbulent flow in the head and radiator. Once
flow gets turbulent them maybe this worsens or improves heat conduction.  I
can see arguments both ways. For sure, as soon as flow gets turbulent, then
resistance to flow increases.  There can be a point where added pressure does
not improve flow much even without pipes collapsing

-Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On May 28, 2014, at 7:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 25 May 2014 21:04:25 -0400
> From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor
> Message-ID: <A7C307D0E3BE40B18FA51EFD527EBFBE at DELLPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>    reply-type=original
>
> I recently had a TR6 spare water pump rebuilt by The Flying Dutchman and one
> of his options is a 6 vane impellor. I installed the pump last week and had
> the upper coolant hose (thermostat to manifold) burst yesterday. Between
> then and now, it covered over 250 highway miles with no problems. In
> examining the hose I can see where it was full of cracks and check marks so
> the failure is probably coincidence. As a result of my problem there's a
> discussion in 6-Pack on the advantage/disadvantage of a 6 vane water pump.
>
> One group feels there's less cavitation and more volume pumped through the
> system.
>
> Another group feels it pumps the water through the system too fast and the
> radiator can't cool it properly so the car runs hotter. Another view was
> that with the thermostat closed it could increase the pressure and expose
> the hose as a fail point.
>
> All speculation and theory so........ does anyone know the
> advantages/disadvantages of 4 vs 6 vane? Rimmer and Racetorations both sell
> it as an upgrade to the cooling system
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob

>From [email-masked]
From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2014 13:40:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 Headrest

Does anybody know how the adjustable headrest on a 1974 TR6 comes  off.  
Got these neat seatbelt guides but I can't figure out if the headrest  comes 
out or the second option is to cut the guides.  Thanks
Harry Mague

>From [email-masked]
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2014 11:01:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor

> may I most 
> respectfully
> suggest you do a quick spool-back and exclude the Stag V8? :)
> It was a mountain of trouble on the cooling side of things 

I'm not sure why this showed up again today; but I'd like to clarify what I said before.  I think there is no doubt that the Stag
cooling system was marginal at best (and criminally negligent at worst).  Combined with an engine that is peculiarly sensitive to
overheating (as in one boilover can result in thousands of dollars of damage); there is definitely room for improvement (especially
with early Stags like mine).

But to improve a system, you start by improving the weakest link.  Adding more water flow to a cooling system that lacks adequate
surface area and/or air flow through the radiator is not going to help (at least not by much), and may even make the situation
worse.  More flow means more energy to move the water, and that energy winds up as heat.  More energy to move the water means more
load on the engine, which also increases heat output.  The Stag engine has a further weakness in that overloading the water pump
drive can result in catastrophic failure (rather than just a slipping belt as on any 'normal' engine).

So, to restate, while I agree that there is room for improvement in the cooling system in most Triumphs; I still haven't seen that
increased water flow is an effective improvement for TR2-6 and Stag.  Still just an opinion, of course, worth everything it costs.
YMMV and all that.  If you have evidence or anecdotes to the contrary, I'd love to hear them.

Randall

>From [email-masked]
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2014 17:28:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Blown Gasket TR4 part III
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

Man, I so don't want to do that. But I will.
I'll drop the pan and disconnect just the forward two pistons and push the
liners with pistons up through the block. Then replace the figure 8 gasket
and rebuild.
Does that sound OK?
John

On Thu, May 29, 2014 at 6:40 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Always use something to clamp the liners in place when the head is off
> before turning over the engine.  Once you break the lower seal on the
> liner, it's really best to pull the liner and clean up the figure 8 gasket
> surfaces and replace those gaskets.  I know that's not what you want to
> hear, but that can certainly leak prodigious amounts of water into the oil.
>
> I use 1/2" drive sockets stacked up on the head studs with enough washers
> I can put a head nut on to hold in place.
>
> Tony Drews
>
>
> At 03:24 PM 5/29/2014, Lee&John Howard wrote:
>
>> I got back to the car yesterday and found that liner #1 protruded far
>> beyond spec at .010. I assembled a few tubes and washers to simulate the
>> factory liner hold down tool and managed to press the liner down to .005,
>> just at spec.  So, this is what probably caused the blow-out, although I
>> wonder if simply turning the crank with the head off might have caused the
>> liner to lift.
>>
>> Whatever ( as the grandkids say ad nauseum) - I'm going with the too-high
>> liner as the cause, and will use a new and thicker gasket from British
>> Parts Northwest. Plus new studs - I'm springing for the ARP's.
>>
>> As for the exhaust manifold, I'm cutting off the headers ( behind the
>> collection point) and having its face trued up. Same with the manifold
>> face
>> on the head - flattened and new matched studs.  Standard heavy duty
>> gaskets
>> from Moss.
>>
>> Should be back on the road in a week! Yeah, right.
>>
>> Thanks again
>>
>> John Howard
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@
>> tonydrews.com

>From [email-masked]
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2014 20:48:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Blown Gasket TR4 part III
 mail.com>
References: <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>
 <[email-masked]>

>From [email-masked]
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (Martin Secrest)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2014 13:18:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast

The brakes on my GT6 are pulsing when applied. Not a big deal but noticeable
for sure even under moderate braking. Just checked the rotor runout and it's
way out of spec on the right and OK (.005) on the left.

Should I turn both rotors?  They aren't scored; if I turn them must I put in
new pads?

Martin Secrest

---

From: Kirk Hargreaves <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2014 12:13:12 -0700

Jim,

Re: a small loss of pressure.

Very well might have been why my stock radiators would not keep my engine
cool. They were way off the chart into overheated territory.

More than what would be expected just because they were designed for a
British climate.

But I am happy that the situation caused me to pirate the radiator out of
the Swift.

Kirk

PS
(I hear that the Type E cooling system can be difficult.  That it must be
maintained to the max or it will radically overheat).

On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 10:19 PM, bmwwxman . <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Pressure is important.  If there is the tiniest leak somewhere in an older
> radiator they will overheat.  Its like when you have a cracked radiator
> hose.  The problem then isn't so much that it is leaking coolant but that
> it can't maintain the pressure it was designed for.  PV=nrT   If "V" volume
> is constant then (your cooling system) then "T" temperature varies directly
> with "P" pressure.  Can't tell you how many times I've had overheating due
> to a pin hole leak in pressure!  Replaced my Midget radiator with a Spanish
> made one. Took the old one to a radiator shop I know and they put pressure
> on it. It wouldn't hold pressure very long even at atmospheric temperature!
>
> Cheers!!
> Jim
>
> On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 7:22 PM, Kirk Hargreaves <[email-masked]>
> wrote:
>
>> > > I plan on checking timing this evening and am going to look for
>> Bubbles
>> > and
>> > > I am leaning more and more to the radiator flow volume.  Is there a
>> way
>> > to
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>
>
>
> --
> Cheers!!
> Jim Johnson
> Sprite-Midget Club USA <http://www.Sprite-MidgetClub.org>
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>
> *Winston Churchill*
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