Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Bugeye/Frogeye Club..... Re: Racer guys Engine help

From: Lester <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 20:20:08 -0500

And some more info.. with someone else cranking the engine over there is fuel
/ air blowing out of both carbs.

ARRgghhhhh!!!

Lester

On Jul 19, 2014, at 7:32 PM, Lester [email-masked] [bugeye] wrote:

> For those counting on the carbs.. no joy.  Disassembled carbs, verified
position of needle, removed jets and verified flow, verified that piston drop
on both carbs was at essentially the same speed, verified that both pistons
bottom out easily and without apparent drag.  Verified float, needle , and
seat (Note:  there is no adjustment on this setup, the plastic float is just
what it is).  Set both jets flush with bridge, backed off both 12 flats.
>
>
> I have not checked to see if the engine is "sucking".. that will be later.
>
> Lester
>
>
> On Jul 19, 2014, at 12:35 PM, Lester [email-masked] [bugeye] wrote:
>
>>
>> For those counting on distributor being 180 degrees out.. no joy. Didn't
help at all. Verified that timing was correct although being 180 degrees out
compression and ignition wee happening at the wrong time.
>>
>> Carbs are now off so I'll get them cleaned up and blown through and report
back. Also, no vent on top of the chamber. Seems really odd to me. I wonder if
someone mixed and matched and although the bolt holes line up, this one needs
a vent. I"ll look at the other set I have just to see.
>>
>> Still open to any and all ideas..
>>
>> Lester
>>
>
>
> __._,_
------------------------

[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

---

From: Rick Fisk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 21:34:35 -0400

Lester,

The plastic float assemblies are adjustable.  You can use shim washers under
the needle seat to lower the fuel level in the float chamber.

Sent from my keyboard

> On Jul 19, 2014, at 8:32 PM, Lester <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: Lester <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 01:26:24 -0500

Right, forgot about that..

------------------------

[email-masked]

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From: "Paul Herder" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 09:32:20 -0500

Lester,

It REALLY sound like your cam is not installed correctly.  It sounds like
your engine is in either the compression or exhaust stroke with the intake
valves opening thus blowing out fuel / air (exhaust valve or no valves open
during these strokes.)

Has this engine ever ran or is this a new rebuild/assembly?  If it has ran
before, something has changed and if not then something was not installed
correctly.  Timing chain slipped on its sprockets (or installed off a tooth,
or more?)

I would take a step back and put a degree wheel on the crank and degree in
the cam and see if it is opening the intakes at the correct time.

Paul

-----Original Message-----
And some more info.. with someone else cranking the engine over there is
fuel / air blowing out of both carbs.

ARRgghhhhh!!!

Lester
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Lester <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 14:04:44 -0500

Paul,

yes, it has run before but never run well.   It is a new engine, built by
someone else.  My current thinking is something along those lines.   I am
about to go remove the front cover and see what's what.

Dave,

if it would run I would put a vacuum gauge on it.   It doesn't run well enough
to do that, IIRC, a vacuum gauge won't tell you squat while you are just
turning it over.  And where would I hook it up, no vacuum ports on the carbs
or intake manifold.

------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: David Lieb <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 14:10:18 -0500

But, if it were cam timing, why would it only affect cylinder 2? Shouldn't
it be the same for all four?
David L
------------------------

[email-masked]

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From: GUY DAY <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 21:11:40 +0100

Doing a compression test, (both wet and dry) should tell you if there is a
difference between the cylinders and their general condition.
The motor
doesn't have to run to do that and it should tell you a little about the
engine.  
Checking the piston height through the plug holes and relating that
to the rockers/valve positions should let you know if the cam is in correctly
in relation to the crank and valve openings on an individual cylinder basis.
 If it is a wrong firing order cam the valve openings should be rather odd
......

There are the really odd ball things such as plug leads breaking down
and distributor cam (bearings and lobes) being worn way out of spec.  Or even
the cam is too wild to work below 3000 rpm.  Carbs and Inlet manifold seated
properly on the head?

It is always a worry when someone you don't know has
built an engine and the problem is like this.

Guy R Day
 
To:
Spridgets list <[email-masked]>; [email-masked] 
Sent:
Sunday, 20 July 2014, 20:04
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Bugeye/Frogeye Club.....
Re: Racer guys Engine help

Paul,

yes, it has run before but never run
well.   It is a new engine, built by
someone else.  My current thinking is
something along those lines.   I am
about to go remove the front cover and see
what's what.

Dave,

if it would run I would put a vacuum gauge on it.   It
doesn't run well enough
to do that, IIRC, a vacuum gauge won't tell you squat
while you are just
turning it over.  And where would I hook it up, no vacuum
ports on the carbs
or intake manifold.

On Jul 20, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Paul
Herder wrote:

> Has this engine
ever ran or is this a new rebuild/assembly?  If it has ran
> before, something
has changed and if not then something was not installed
> correctly.  Timing
chain slipped on its sprockets (or installed off a
tooth,
> I
would take a step back and put a degree wheel on the crank and degree in
> the
cam and see if it is opening the intakes at the correct time.
-----Original Message-----
ARRgghhhhh!!!
------------------------

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Lester <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 18:04:01 -0500

I FOUND A PROBLEM!!!

May not be the only one but it sure looks like it.  When turning the engine
over with someone else watching the valvetrain it was obvious..  valve
adjuster screw was broken!  Found the broken end and was able to remove the
bit left in the rocker arm.

          BUT

The threads are messed up in the rocker arm and if I measure the threads on
the adjuster it's a perfect match for a 27 pitch which just doesn't sound
right.  So oh wise, king, and patient folk, what should it really be..

And it was the exhaust valve on #3 so it would push all the compressed
air/fuel right into the intake manifold.

UGHH..

A second set of eyes makes a difference.

Thanks for all your help so far folks!

Lester

------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Lester <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 18:08:54 -0500

Now we have two data points,

Lester

On Jul 20, 2014, at 2:12 PM, Brian Church wrote:

> The only time Ive had fuel and air blowing out the carbs was when I had a
stuck valve  actually a stuck rocker.
> When you had the valve cover off, did you have a chance to cycle through a
couple of revolutions and confirm all the valves are opening and closing
completely?
> Quite a mystery.
> Brian
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Lester <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 18:27:46 -0500

.. and the adjuster screw is hollow and necked, it takes oil from the rocker
arm and channels it to the top of the pushrod is what it looks like.  Where
would one purchase new ones or are these stock for the 1275?

Lester

> May not be the only one but it sure looks like it. When turning the engine
over with someone else watching the valvetrain it was obvious.. valve adjuster
screw was broken! Found the broken end and was able to remove the bit left in
the rocker arm.
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Rick Fisk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 20:05:38 -0400

Moss has them, $10.95 each - ouch!  Peter C. probably has them too.  28
threads per inch, BTW.  :-)

Sent from my keyboard

> On Jul 20, 2014, at 7:27 PM, Lester <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
adjuster

[email-masked]

---

From: Rick Fisk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 21:56:50 -0400

Sorry Lester - I just realized you're looking for a rocker arm as well as an
adjuster.  More than $10.95, but maybe Ron can help you out.

Sent from my keyboard

> On Jul 20, 2014, at 9:32 PM, Ron Soave <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> Send me a pic and an address. I'm sure I have some.
>
> Ron Soave
>
>> On Jul 20, 2014, at 7:05 PM, Rick Fisk <[email-masked]> wrote:
>>
>>> screw was broken! Found the broken end and was able to remove the bit
left
>> in
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Lester <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 21:33:42 -0500

Thanks Ron,

will do.

Rick.. hopefully just the adjuster...  unless there is something I'm missing.

..and I've been missing a few things lately..

Lester

[email-masked]

---

From: Lester <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 23:59:07 -0500

Bob, I found both pieces, it broke right at the area that is necked for oil
passage.  It looks like it bent and spent some life like that before it
finally broke,  This would explain why the car ran and suddenly started
backfiring.  This is my assumption as the ball end was no longer round but
squished on one side and showed wear on the bent part

Lester

On Jul 20, 2014, at 11:13 PM, Bob Walker [email-masked] [bugeye]
wrote:

>
> So now the question is ...........which piece did you find? the top piece
with the jamb nut? or the bottom piece with the pushrod ball on it? Top piece
would be somebody tightening the jamb nut too tight. Ball socket end would be
all adjustment has been taken up and major stresses are taken place directly
under the rocker arm. Only two possible cures, wrong push rods were installed
or rocker stands are too tall..
> Bob Walker
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: GUY DAY <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 08:40:31 +0100

Hold both parts together in the best fit position and look for the missing
material. B That has the opportunity of floating round the engine so assess
how you are going to deal with that. B A special clean up, fresh oil, leave it
for the filter, magnetic drain plug? B Your decision. B Best scenario - no
gaps in the break line.

Great hear a solution has been found that could have
caused the problem.

Guy R DayB 

________________________________
 From:
"Lester [email-masked] [bugeye]" <[email-masked]>
To:
[email-masked]; Spridgets list <[email-masked]> 
Sent:
Monday, 21 July 2014, 0:27
Subject: Re: Bugeye/Frogeye Club..... Re:: Racer
guys Engine help

B  
.. and the adjuster screw is hollow and necked, it
takes oil from the rocker arm and channels it to the top of the pushrod is
what it looks like. B Where would one purchase new ones or are these stock for
the 1275?

Lester

On Jul 20, 2014, at 6:04 PM, Lester
[email-masked] [bugeye] wrote:

B  
>May not
be the only one but it sure looks like it.  When turning the engine over with
someone else watching the valvetrain it was obvious..  valve adjuster screw
was broken!  Found the broken end and was able to remove the bit left in the
rocker arm. 
>
>BUT 
>
>The threads are messed up in the rocker arm and if I
measure the threads on the adjuster it's a perfect match for a 27 pitch which
just doesn't sound right.  So oh wise, king, and patient folk, what should it
really be..
>
>And it was the exhaust valve on #3 so it would push all the
compressed air/fuel right into the intake manifold.
>On Jul 20, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Paul Herder wrote:
__._,_.___

________________________________
 Posted by: Lester
<[email-masked]> 
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---

From: Tim Collins <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 12:33:22 -0400

Lester,
No doubt that you are checking the condition of all the other 
adjusters?? If the push rods were wrong for one, the Might be wrong 
for all, but then again . . .

At 12:59 AM 7/21/2014, Lester wrote:
>passage.
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Glen Byrns <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 10:33:45 -0700

Am I the only one who has never seen a valve adjuster screw drilled for oil
passage? Mine, on both forged and pressed rockers are solid.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 21, 2014, at 9:33 AM, Tim Collins <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> Lester,
> No doubt that you are checking the condition of all the other adjusters?? If
the push rods were wrong for one, the Might be wrong for all, but then again .
. .
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: derf <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 13:09:28 -0500

And as with all A-series tuning one should set the valve lash before
starting carb adjustment, right?

On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 12:33 PM, Glen Byrns <[email-masked]> wrote:

> adjusters?? If
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Ewing <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 13:39:54 -0500

Yup.. and I remember when this likely happened.

First drive, gave it gas and went like a scalded cat for 100 yards.  Never
with a damn after that, I figured it must have been something I did.  Now I
realize that it probable bent the adjuster then  which allowed it to run but
not worth a damn.  Finally broke last week giving the backfiring.

Lester

------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Ewing <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 13:43:11 -0500

.. and now with corrected spelling!!

On Jul 21, 2014, at 1:39 PM, "Ewing [email-masked] [bugeye]"
<[email-masked]> wrote:

> First drive, gave it gas and it went like a scalded cat for 100 yards. Never
worth a damn after that, I figured it must have been something I did. Now I
realize that it probably bent the adjuster then which allowed it to run but
not worth a damn. Finally broke last week giving the backfiring.
> > No doubt that you are checking the condition of all the other adjusters??
If the push rods were wrong for one, the Might be wrong for all, but then
again . . .
> Posted by: Ewing <[email-masked]>
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---

From: derf <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 13:55:52 -0500

I used to like to glue the valve cover gasket to the head with adhesive and
put Hylomar on the valve cover side of the gasket.  Then the gasket would
stay on the head and make a kind of oil levee, if necessary.
I made a couple valve cover nuts into T nuts
http://i57.tinypic.com/2419xma.jpg
Adjusting the valve lash is important, especially if you're trying to tune
a dual carb setup.

It's nice to finally find the problem, though.
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Rick Fisk <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 17:31:22 -0400

Pushrods are probably fine.  We have broken an adjuster twice on John Diekis
race Midget.  Lester says in a later post that he ran it "like a scalded cat"
for a short distance.  They're 50 years old and sometimes they break.  :-)

Sent from my keyboard

> On Jul 21, 2014, at 12:33 PM, Tim Collins <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> Lester,

[email-masked]

---

From: Rick Fisk <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 17:33:38 -0400

On the race Midget that I mentioned in another email we have broken adjusters
twice.  In John's spares we found both hollow and solid adjusters.  We
replaced the broken ones with solid spares, reasoning that they would hold up
better under race conditions.

Sent from my keyboard

> On Jul 21, 2014, at 1:33 PM, Glen Byrns <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
If

[email-masked]

---

From: Ewing <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 14:25:25 -0500

It won't run at all.

Yes, I am familiar with 4 stroke performance cams and a "loping" idle

I have changed distributors.

I have messed with timing.

I have messed with carburation (richer and leaner jet adjustment )

I still get backfiring through carb (front) and I have always had lousy power.
This is butt dyne.  I previously had a dead stock 948 and then I added a
Judson.  This has less "umph" than either of those.

I have not changed carbs nor have I removed and rebuilt but that's an option
and maybe my next thing to do as previously I had planned on gaining access to
the gears and chain to verify proper timing.

Yes, I have rebuilt SU Carbs before.  Yes I can sync multiple carbs  (The
E-Type has 3!).  NO, I don't use a Unisyn but a really neat older unit whose
manufacturer escapes me at present. No, I don't have any other needles..
well.. that's not strictly true, I have about 4 but as all of the needles have
the same diameter at idle it doesn't much matter.

I'll try that this weekend or sooner if it stays cool.

I know that this sounds like I'm pissed and I am, mostly at myself as I hate
not being able to diagnose a problem on so simple a car.

Lester

On Jul 15, 2014, at 1:03 PM, "[email-masked] [bugeye]"
<[email-masked]> wrote:

> One cylinder @ 185 isn't going to make a difference you can feel on the
road.  It "could" have a broken ring in that cylinder, but I'll bet not.  In
fact I'll wager you find nothing obvious if you tear it down.
>
> I think your lack of power is something external - carburetion, ignition.
>
> Or are you just expecting too much?  Can you get it on a dyno to adjust
carbs and ign?   I'd expect a medium hot 1380 to make maybe 75-80 HP at the
rear wheels.  100-110 HP for a balls-out race engine.
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: "bmwwxman ." <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 15:26:08 -0500

Check the firing order.  It's easy to get a plug wire or two wrong.....

Cheers!!
Jim

On Tue, Jul 15, 2014 at 2:25 PM, Ewing <[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>

-- 
Cheers!!
Jim Johnson
Sprite-Midget Club USA <http://www.Sprite-MidgetClub.org>
High Plains Youth Hockey <http://www.highplainsyouthhockey.org>
Dodge City Trail of Fame <http://www.DodgeCityTrailofFame.org>
Electronic Journal of Severe Storms Meteorology <http://www.EJSSM.org>
Dodge City 300 <http://www.DodgeCity300.org>

*"Tact is the ability to tell someone to go to hell in such a way that they
look forward to the trip."*

*Winston Churchill*
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Ewing <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 15:39:17 -0500

Waaaaay back that was one of the early things I've done because it sure seems
just exactly like a screwed up firing order but I keep asking and researching
and it seem alike I"m doing it right,

FO  1-3-4-2 , each plug wire has corresponding number of zip ties on it at
plug end and #1 is marked at distributor cap end

#1 is at front of car

Distributor rotor rotates counterclockwise as viewed from the right side of
the car

#1 is at TDC when markers line up and both intake and exhaust valves are
closed (both rocker arms are not pressing on valves)  (No it's not the dial
gauge way but it's close enough)

This is why it's driving me nuts!

Lester

.. I know that it's going to be something simple but I haven't found it yet.

>
>
>
> --
> Cheers!!
> Jim Johnson
> Sprite-Midget Club USA
> High Plains Youth Hockey
> Dodge City Trail of Fame
> Electronic Journal of Severe Storms Meteorology
> Dodge City 300
>
> "Tact is the ability to tell someone to go to hell in such a way that they
look forward to the trip."
> Winston Churchill
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Ewing <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 16:00:24 -0500

This is the best cap that I have, new Bosch (Well BERU actually)

I haven't noticed any arcing at night.  Remember, I tried an entirely
different distributor and still had the same problem.

On Jul 15, 2014, at 3:47 PM, <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Possibly cross firing inside the distributor cap? If it is arcing on the
> outside, you can see it in a dark (night time) garage. Try a dist cap you
> know to be good.

> Bill in Oregon
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Mike Rambour <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 14:07:48 -0700

40 years ago when I was a stupid teenager who knew it all, I spent 2 
days trying to get a engine to fire, it kept spitting back through the 
carbs and not running.  On the second day I was going through everything 
and checking valve clearances...Following the firing order 1,3,4,2   
then my girlfriend said "if 3 comes after 1, why did 4 intake valve open 
?" or something like that.   40 years and I still hear about it from her 
(married 36 years now).

  Some idiot has put in a new cam that had a different firing order,  
1,2,4,3 is what the cam was, I have no idea where that cam came from it 
was in the boxes with the block and other motor parts when I bought the 
basket case and I never checked it just assumed it was right.   So check 
your firing order !   take off the valve cover, set motor at TDC and 
double check valve timing, then rotate motor watching both valves and 
rotor on distributor (I think you said it was electronic so oops if it 
is).   This will take 5 minutes to do and eliminate a 1,000 possible 
things wrong and you will now be able to diagnose from a known starting 
point.  And keep your gf away or she might fix it and remind you for 
decades.

  I personally can't imagine how a carb could cause backfiring through 
the carbs unless you forgot to put parts in or like that. So for fire to 
get to the carb it has to be valve timing is way off or ignition timing 
is way off.  Yeah, I suppose really really bad valve clearances could 
cause the symptoms you are seeing but that would be the last thing I 
would check.

   Mike
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: "bmwwxman ." <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 17:07:27 -0500

What Mike said.....    I've seen this happen before too.  On my MKIII
Midget I have to rotate the dizzy 180 degrees from where it *should* be.
You could try that too.  I've known a number of different 4 bangers where
the dizzy was 180 degrees out.

Cheers!!
Jim

On Tue, Jul 15, 2014 at 4:07 PM, Mike Rambour <[email-masked]> wrote:

>  40 years ago when I was a stupid teenager who knew it all, I spent 2 days
> trying to get a engine to fire, it kept spitting back through the carbs and
> not running.  On the second day I was going through everything and checking
> valve clearances...Following the firing order 1,3,4,2   then my girlfriend
> said "if 3 comes after 1, why did 4 intake valve open ?" or something like
> that.   40 years and I still hear about it from her (married 36 years now).
>
> your firing order !   take off the valve cover, set motor at TDC and double
> check valve timing, then rotate motor watching both valves and rotor on
> distributor (I think you said it was electronic so oops if it is).   This
> will take 5 minutes to do and eliminate a 1,000 possible things wrong and
> you will now be able to diagnose from a known starting point.  And keep
> your gf away or she might fix it and remind you for decades.
>
>  I personally can't imagine how a carb could cause backfiring through the
> carbs unless you forgot to put parts in or like that. So for fire to get to
> the carb it has to be valve timing is way off or ignition timing is way
> off.  Yeah, I suppose really really bad valve clearances could cause the
> symptoms you are seeing but that would be the last thing I would check.
>
>   Mike
>
> ------------------------
>
> [email-masked]
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>

*Winston Churchill*
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: "bmwwxman ." <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 17:08:40 -0500

It's definitely a spark timing problem if it is backfiring through the
carb(s).

Cheers!!
Jim

On Tue, Jul 15, 2014 at 5:07 PM, bmwwxman . <[email-masked]> wrote:

>> and checking valve clearances...Following the firing order 1,3,4,2   then
>> my girlfriend said "if 3 comes after 1, why did 4 intake valve open ?" or
>> something like that.   40 years and I still hear about it from her (married
>> 36 years now).
>>
> *"Tact is the ability to tell someone to go to hell in such a way that
> they look forward to the trip."*
>
> *Winston Churchill*
>
>

*Winston Churchill*
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From: Lester <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 19:57:48 -0500

But.. but..  I've set everything up just as it's supposed to be..  it should
work..

Ok, so if I move the plug wires around by two places then I have essentially
spun the distributor around by 180 degrees..  sounds easy enough..

Oh yeah,   I was thinking about the carbs, as I have verified that the pistons
move easily up and down and at about the same rate and the needles are mounted
correctly then as long as I have no air leaks due to gaskets/seals the only
thing left to verify is that fuel flows through the jets as I have already
verified fuel height in the bowl and fuel flow through the needle and seat.

Hmm.. I just thought of something else.. there doesn't seem to be a vent on
top of the float chamber but that may just be my memory..

Lester

>>> your firing order !   take off the valve cover, set motor at TDC and
double
>>> symptoms you are seeing but that would be the last thing I would check.
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
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From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 18:11:34 -0700

Isn't the 'vent' on the float bowl/chamber more of a fuel overflow device?
Bill in Oregon
================================================================
-----Original Message-----
From: Spridgets [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of
Lester
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2014 5:58 PM
To: Spridgets; [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Racer guys Engine help

 . . . .

[email-masked]

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From: Lester <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 20:33:24 -0500

The vent is there to allow atmospheric pressure to equalize inside the bowl as
I understand it.  Like a vented fuel fill cap.

Lester

[email-masked]

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From: derf <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 20:45:03 -0500

Is your 1 3 4 2 dizzy rotation CW or CCW?
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From: derf <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 20:56:25 -0500

Usual suspects:
Points
Condenser <
Wacky dizzy advance
(try a known good dizzy?)
massive air leak maybe around intake or carb bases
Bad SU seat or loose needle

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From: Lester <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 12:35:01 -0500

For those counting on distributor being 180 degrees out.. no joy.  Didn't help
at all.  Verified that timing was correct although being 180 degrees out
compression and ignition wee happening at the wrong time.

Carbs are now off so I'll get them cleaned up and blown through and report
back.  Also, no vent on top of the chamber.  Seems really odd to me.  I wonder
if someone mixed and matched and although the bolt holes line up, this one
needs a vent.  I"ll look at the other set I have just to see.

Lester

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From: Ed Kaler <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 14:55:27 -0500

E D I T        Y O U R        R E P L I E S  [before DMARC p="reject" 
catches you] ! ! !*
**XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX*

Lester:

Have you received my PMs ? ? ?

Ed
" Just Brits "
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From: Lester <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 19:32:16 -0500

Lester

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