Subject: Re: [Spridgets] kind of spridget related

From: Mike Rambour <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 11:29:33 -0700

Wait...the 10CG or 10GG head is on my 1098 that is going into my other 
Singer...so I know nothing about the 1275 :)
------------------------

[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

---

From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 11:53:14 -0700

Do what you want. Would having AAA towing insurance count as dependable??

Hydraulic or cable brakes; if you're gonna go, you gotta be able to stop.
Bill in Oregon
===========================================================
-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked]
[mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Mike Rambour
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 11:20 AM
To: Spridgets
Subject: [Spridgets] kind of spridget related

 . . .

Am I stupid to try this? should I find a 1500 motor from 
some other make ?  There is one of these cars in New Zealand with a VW 
2-litre from a modern car in it but they also swapped the rear axle and I 
want to avoid that.

  My goal would be to make it reliable and be able to get to freeway 
speeds so I can take it places, if it takes a while to get to that speed 
that is ok with me.

   Wow, long message...

         mike
------------------------

[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Trevor Jessie <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 14:57:56 -0400

Educate me on those gear ratios and the type of rear end (differential?)
used in this car.

On Sat, May 18, 2013 at 2:20 PM, Mike Rambour <[email-masked]> wrote:

>    11 years ago I was a younger man (pretty interesting eh ?) and I had a
> unique opportunity to buy a very rare 1934 Singer and when you already own
> a 1934 Singer and say this one is rare you know its unique.
>
>  I have not touched this Singer because I did not want to have 2 cars
> apart at the same time and so I told people it was going to be my
> retirement project, well retirement is too far away and I want it on the
> road.   The reason I mentioned something about being younger is that as I
> have gotten older, I no longer enjoy the moments broken down on the side of
> the road and I enjoy the trouble free driving more so I am thinking of
> doing a engine swap.
>
>  The original motor is a 1493cc 6 cylinder motor of early 1930's
> technology (59 mm. by 91 mm bore-stroke) and I have no idea the HP rating
> of it but it can't be very high. The gearbox is a crashbox with four speeds
> with ratios 5.22, 6.65, 10.68 and 19.43 to 1 and 26.4:1 reverse with silent
> second and third gears, no idea the rear axle ratio.  Fueled by twin Solex
> sidedraft carbs.  The motor has had cracks brazed in the side of the block
> on both sides, the freeze plugs corroded out decades ago and were covered
> by bondo (yes Bondo) to prevent leaks I assume.  I removed the oil pan and
> found wood screws jammed into the block because the oil pan studs were
> broken so they drilled small holes and used wood screws.  The oil pump
> strainer was cut off (presumably to increase oil pressure after too much
> sludge plugged up the strainer) and there appears to be a crack between the
> number 2 and 3 cylinders which allows coolant into the oil sump.  The motor
> can be fixed but its ridiculously expensive and I want reliability.
>
>  I have a Spridget 1275 complete with carbs and gearbox, I have no idea
> the year but it has a 10CG (or is it 10GG?) head which implies its a later
> 1275 motor, no idea of its real condition but its free turning and just
> turning by hand appears to have compression in all 4 cylinders, of course a
> full rebuild is in order.
>
>  I am thinking a newer 1275 will have more HP than a 1930's 1500 motor, it
> will also be lighter and extremely very easily fit into the chassis with no
> permanent mods to the Singer and that the 1275 motor would work well in
> this car.  When I have done motor swaps it was usually to make a hot rod
> with much larger more powerful motors, I have never gone down in size
> before am I stupid to try this ? should I find a 1500 motor from some other
> make ?  There is one of these cars in New Zealand with a VW 2Litre from a
> modern car in it but they also swapped the rear axle and I want to avoid
> that.
>
>  My goal would be to make it reliable and be able to get to freeway speeds
> so I can take it places, if it takes a while to get to that speed that is
> ok with me.
>
>   Wow, long message...
>
>         mike
> ------------------------
>
> [email-masked]
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/spridgets/[email-masked]<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]>
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Mike Rambour <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 13:17:48 -0700

> Educate me on those gear ratios and the type of rear end (differential?)
  That is what came out of the owners manual.  I don't understand it 
either, I am guessing its measured differently than it is today, for 
example at the rear wheel or ?

  Good point on the 5-speed, I had not given that any thought at all.  
It complicates matters in that I have to find one, etc. but since as 
someone already said, the 1275 should have more power then the old 1500, 
a 5-speed should allow to cruise at slow freeway speeds without blowing 
up the motor (not interested in doing average fast lane speeds here in 
Calif. with this car).  Already had brand new brake drums made so I can 
stop the thing from that speed.

   I like the 5-speed idea, I know Mo$$ has one for $$$ but if I 
remember my readings here, I need to find a Datsun or like that (will 
search the archives).

     mike
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Mike Rambour <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 13:48:21 -0700

I will Thanks.

  Of course as I think about this, I just hit another engineering issue, 
the Singer is RHD and mechanical clutch, not hydraulic.  So I will have 
to figure out how to get a master/slave into the car for the clutch.

  On my other Singer I had to make a rather complicated mess of levers 
and adapters to make the 1098 clutch work, but I didn't have to design 
that, someone in the UK owners club did and it works well.  The 5-speed 
which takes the Datsun clutch I assume will need the hydraulics (which I 
would prefer anyway if I can design it without butchering the Singer 
chassis)

  This is beginning to look like a cool challenge and it will make the 
car driveable.

     mike

On 06/03/2013 01:11 PM, Jim Johnson wrote:
> Hi Mike,
>
> RE: the 5 speed...   Call or email Gerard Chateauvieux who is not too 
> far from you. He does a 5 speed kits and can offer you sound advise.
>
> Cheers!!
> Jim
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: "Dean Hedin" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 19:09:15 -0400

I think for a car of that vintage you should locate (and perhaps upgrade) an
original motor.

I just don't see it being that less reliable than an A-series.

I realize it might be difficult to locate another motor, but I would at
least give it a shot. 

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked]
[mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Mike Rambour
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 2:20 PM
To: Spridgets
Subject: [Spridgets] kind of spridget related

    11 years ago I was a younger man (pretty interesting eh ?) and I had a
unique opportunity to buy a very rare 1934 Singer and when you already own a
1934 Singer and say this one is rare you know its unique.

  I have not touched this Singer because I did not want to have 2 cars apart
at the same time and so I told people it was going to be my retirement
project, well retirement is too far away and I want it on the 
road.   The reason I mentioned something about being younger is that as 
I have gotten older, I no longer enjoy the moments broken down on the side
of the road and I enjoy the trouble free driving more so I am thinking of
doing a engine swap.

  The original motor is a 1493cc 6 cylinder motor of early 1930's technology
(59 mm. by 91 mm bore-stroke) and I have no idea the HP rating of it but it
can't be very high. The gearbox is a crashbox with four speeds with ratios
5.22, 6.65, 10.68 and 19.43 to 1 and 26.4:1 reverse with silent second and
third gears, no idea the rear axle ratio.  Fueled by twin Solex sidedraft
carbs.  The motor has had cracks brazed in the side of the block on both
sides, the freeze plugs corroded out decades ago and were covered by bondo
(yes Bondo) to prevent leaks I assume.  I removed the oil pan and found wood
screws jammed into the block because the oil pan studs were broken so they
drilled small holes and used wood screws.  The oil pump strainer was cut off
(presumably to increase oil pressure after too much sludge plugged up the
strainer) and there appears to be a crack between the number 2 and 3
cylinders which allows coolant into the oil sump.  The motor can be fixed
but its ridiculously expensive and I want reliability.

  I have a Spridget 1275 complete with carbs and gearbox, I have no idea the
year but it has a 10CG (or is it 10GG?) head which implies its a later 1275
motor, no idea of its real condition but its free turning and just turning
by hand appears to have compression in all 4 cylinders, of course a full
rebuild is in order.

  I am thinking a newer 1275 will have more HP than a 1930's 1500 motor, it
will also be lighter and extremely very easily fit into the chassis with no
permanent mods to the Singer and that the 1275 motor would work well in this
car.  When I have done motor swaps it was usually to make a hot rod with
much larger more powerful motors, I have never gone down in size before am I
stupid to try this ? should I find a 1500 motor from some other make ?
There is one of these cars in New Zealand with a VW 2Litre from a modern car
in it but they also swapped the rear axle and I want to avoid that.

  My goal would be to make it reliable and be able to get to freeway speeds
so I can take it places, if it takes a while to get to that speed that is ok
with me.

   Wow, long message...

         mike
------------------------

[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Paul Van Wig <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2013 16:21:09 -0700

A long as you are thinking transplant why not drop in a modern motor and trans
that is easy to get parts for and common enough to be inexpensive. Iv'e done
Datsun  motor in a Morris Minor but the little Datsun motors are getting
harder to mind.
Take your tape measure to the local wrecking yard. Or check what other cars
that use a similar sized motor have used for transplants.

Paul Van Wig
Big Bear/Long Beach, CA
facebook.com/pvanwig

1959 Nash Metropolitan "Tiffany" (the wife's fun ride)
1968 Morris Minor Woody RHD "Thomas"
1960 Bug Eye (awaiting restoration)

1980 CJ7 Lives @ 7440'
2012 Turbo Diesel Ram 2500 4X4
2003 Toyota 4Runner (the wife's Mountain car)
2012 Cadillac SRX 3.6 (the wife's work ride)

On May 18, 2013, at 11:20 AM, Mike Rambour <[email-masked]> wrote:

I have not touched this Singer because I did not want to have 2 cars apart at
the same time and so I told people it was going to be my retirement project,
well retirement is too far away and I want it on the road.   The reason I
mentioned something about being younger is that as I have gotten older, I no
longer enjoy the moments broken down on the side of the road and I enjoy the
trouble free driving more so I am thinking of doing a engine swap.

The original motor is a 1493cc 6 cylinder motor of early 1930's technology (59
mm. by 91 mm bore-stroke) and I have no idea the HP rating of it but it can't
be very high. The gearbox is a crashbox with four speeds with ratios 5.22,
6.65, 10.68 and 19.43 to 1 and 26.4:1 reverse with silent second and third
gears, no idea the rear axle ratio.  Fueled by twin Solex sidedraft carbs.
The motor has had cracks brazed in the side of the block on both sides, the
freeze plugs corroded out decades ago and were covered by bondo (yes Bondo) to
prevent leaks I assume.  I removed the oil pan and found wood screws jammed
into the block because the oil pan studs were broken so they drilled small
holes and used wood screws.  The oil pump strainer was cut off (presumably to
increase oil pressure after too much sludge plugged up the strainer) and there
appears to be a crack between the number 2 and 3 cylinders which allows
coolant into the oil sump.  The motor can be fixed but its ridiculously
expensive and I want reliability.

I have a Spridget 1275 complete with carbs and gearbox, I have no idea the
year but it has a 10CG (or is it 10GG?) head which implies its a later 1275
motor, no idea of its real condition but its free turning and just turning by
hand appears to have compression in all 4 cylinders, of course a full rebuild
is in order.

I am thinking a newer 1275 will have more HP than a 1930's 1500 motor, it will
also be lighter and extremely very easily fit into the chassis with no
permanent mods to the Singer and that the 1275 motor would work well in this
car.  When I have done motor swaps it was usually to make a hot rod with much
larger more powerful motors, I have never gone down in size before am I stupid
to try this ? should I find a 1500 motor from some other make ?  There is one
of these cars in New Zealand with a VW 2Litre from a modern car in it but they
also swapped the rear axle and I want to avoid that.

My goal would be to make it reliable and be able to get to freeway speeds so I
can take it places, if it takes a while to get to that speed that is ok with
me.

 Wow, long message...

       mike
------------------------

[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Mike Rambour <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 16:45:14 -0700

I agree, especially when the car is as rare as this one is. However it 
is estimated they only built 20 of this model, the records were lost in 
WWII bombings.  My car is the 17th (body number) one so we know they 
built 17 at least.   There are only 8 left that are known to exist, no 
higher body numbers are known to exist.

  They built thousands of cars and trucks in 1934 but this was a special 
model and the motor is unique to this model.  Good luck on finding one 
in any condition.  The next years model was still a 1.5litre but a 
4cylinder motor from their other cars.

  I was quoted between 12,000 and 15,000 UK Pounds to rebuild the motor 
and first I have to ship it to the UK and that was only a rough quote 
based on my descriptions. He has done 3 other of these motors and that 
is why I asked him over someone in the U.S.

  My theory on putting the 1275 is that I can go back or more likely the 
next owner can go back to original as I will not have to cut up the 
chassis to make it fit.  I will not permanently butcher the car, 
everything I will do can be easily undone.  And I get it on the road.

  Kind of doing the same thing with my other more common 34 Singer, I 
put in a 1098 into it but I have also since purchased a brand new block 
(club had some cast) and have slowly been acquiring parts, new 
(stronger) crank is being made.  I will have a original motor ready to 
go but I will have the 1098 for daily driving.

      mike

------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Mike Rambour <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 16:50:34 -0700

I only thought about the 1275 because I have one already sitting in my 
back yard.  The other car in New Zealand that I mentioned went with a 
late model VW motor, computer, fuel injection and automatic gearbox and 
VW rear axle so I know it can be done, but they also cut up the frame to 
fit it all.  I already spent $3,200US having new brake drums cast/made 
for this car, I don't want to swap rear axles at this stage.

  I happen to have a good rebuildable 1275 and a second one of unknown 
condition that is why I thought about them.  I am certainly not against 
something more reliable and modern but I will NOT cut or weld anything 
to the Singer chassis so it can be reversed.  I do plan on looking 
around before going crazy and doing this.

     mike

------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 05:42:20 -0700 (PDT)

Mike,
 
I know what I would do.  Have you ever seen or better yet driven a
2010-2012 Honda Fit?  That 1500 Honda Fit engine is the ultimate "new"
Coventry Climax 1500.  Standard with no tweaking - it puts out 120 hp on
regular 87 pump fuel.  They even make all of the stand alone engine control
electronics as it is used to replace Formula Ford 1600 engines.  They have to
actually detune the engine to run it in Formula F.  The entire engine is
aluminum and it is SOHC with i-vtec.  The engine has good torque low end but
wakes up above 5000 revs.  redline area begins around 7000.  Once the vtec
changes the valve timings it is a serious screamer.   The engines from low
mileage wrecked Fits sell very cheaply on ebay -around $500.  All you would
need to do is make an adapter plate etc. for a Spridget trans.  Even the
clutch looks like a Spridget/BMC part.
 
Cool eh.
 
Mike
________________________________
From: Mike Rambour <[email-masked]>
To:
Spridgets <[email-masked]> 
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 2:20 PM
Subject: [Spridgets] kind of spridget related

    11 years ago I was a
younger man (pretty interesting eh ?) and I had 
a unique opportunity to buy a
very rare 1934 Singer and when you already 
own a 1934 Singer and say this one
is rare you know its unique.

  I have not touched this Singer because I did
not want to have 2 cars 
apart at the same time and so I told people it was
going to be my 
retirement project, well retirement is too far away and I want
it on the 
road.  The reason I mentioned something about being younger is that
as 
I have gotten older, I no longer enjoy the moments broken down on the
side of the road and I enjoy the trouble free driving more so I am 
thinking
of doing a engine swap.

  The original motor is a 1493cc 6 cylinder motor of
early 1930's 
technology (59 mm. by 91 mm bore-stroke) and I have no idea the
HP 
rating of it but it can't be very high. The gearbox is a crashbox with
four speeds with ratios 5.22, 6.65, 10.68 and 19.43 to 1 and 26.4:1 
reverse
with silent second and third gears, no idea the rear axle 
ratio.  Fueled by
twin Solex sidedraft carbs.  The motor has had cracks 
brazed in the side of
the block on both sides, the freeze plugs corroded 
out decades ago and were
covered by bondo (yes Bondo) to prevent leaks I 
assume.  I removed the oil
pan and found wood screws jammed into the 
block because the oil pan studs
were broken so they drilled small holes 
and used wood screws.  The oil pump
strainer was cut off (presumably to 
increase oil pressure after too much
sludge plugged up the strainer) and 
there appears to be a crack between the
number 2 and 3 cylinders which 
allows coolant into the oil sump.  The motor
can be fixed but its 
ridiculously expensive and I want reliability.

  I have
a Spridget 1275 complete with carbs and gearbox, I have no idea 
the year but
it has a 10CG (or is it 10GG?) head which implies its a 
later 1275 motor, no
idea of its real condition but its free turning and 
just turning by hand
appears to have compression in all 4 cylinders, of 
course a full rebuild is
in order.

  I am thinking a newer 1275 will have more HP than a 1930's 1500
motor, 
it will also be lighter and extremely very easily fit into the chassis
with no permanent mods to the Singer and that the 1275 motor would work 
well
in this car.  When I have done motor swaps it was usually to make a 
hot rod
with much larger more powerful motors, I have never gone down in 
size before
am I stupid to try this ? should I find a 1500 motor from 
some other make ? 
There is one of these cars in New Zealand with a VW 
2Litre from a modern car
in it but they also swapped the rear axle and I 
want to avoid that.

  My
goal would be to make it reliable and be able to get to freeway 
speeds so I
can take it places, if it takes a while to get to that speed 
that is ok with
me.

  Wow, long message...

        mike
------------------------
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: brian S <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 09:47:35 -0400

Didn't someone on the list have a complete Datsun A14 motor and trans for
sale recently?
Basically an A series.
Pretty cheap IIRC.
Tried searching the archives but couldn't find it.

Brian S.
Bugeyeracer finally resto'ed!
Thanks to Frank C.!

> Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 11:20:07 -0700
> From: [email-masked]
>
>
>
> the year but it has a 10CG (or is it 10GG?) head which implies its a
> later 1275 motor, no idea of its real condition but its free turning and
> just turning by hand appears to have compression in all 4 cylinders, of
> course a full rebuild is in order.
>
>   I am thinking a newer 1275 will have more HP than a 1930's 1500 motor,
> well in this car.  When I have done motor swaps it was usually to make a
> hot rod with much larger more powerful motors, I have never gone down in
> size before am I stupid to try this ? should I find a 1500 motor from
> 2Litre from a modern car in it but they also swapped the rear axle and I
> want to avoid that.
>
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: brian S <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 10:01:12 -0400

Mike,

I don't think he could use this engine directly out of a wrecked Fit.
They are transverse/front wheel drive.
They do use it in FF, but it comes converted
from Honda's HPD.
I was thinking maybe Miata??

Brian S.

> Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 05:42:20 -0700
> From: [email-masked]
> To: [email-masked]; [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] kind of spridget related
>
> Mike,
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Michael Rowe <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2013 11:39:40 -0400

> They are transverse/front wheel drive

I have often wondered why/if this matters.  Do they turn the same direction? 
If so, and the size is reasonable, I see no special reason why we could not 
just make the same kind of adaptor we do for Datsun 5-speeds.  It makes more 
sense than some of the mamouth things we have seen people put in for fun.

Michael Rowe 
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Mike Rambour <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 17:53:39 -0700

In my case it would be because I want to continue using the same wire 
wheels and already spent a large sum of cash rebuilding the brakes with 
beautiful 13" finned drums that are very visible through the 18" wire 
wheels.  Making the drums alone was $3,200. Switching to a front wheel 
drive would eliminate that, the goal is not to make a hot rod (I sort 
have 2 already, not traditional hot rods but really fast), the goal is 
just to get the car on the road and make it reliable enough for my wife 
to drive it work a day or 2 a week and also for us to take it up Hi. 1 
to Monterey once or twice a year.

  I am not against switching the rear axle to better match the 
motor/gearbox combo and I have a late (1974?) MG Midget rear axle that I 
could put in BUT I will ONLY do that if I can adapt my back plates and 
use my brakes and wheels to that axle, the MG axle is about 3/4" wider 
than the Singer one so that is not a issue.

  I do have a friend with a wrecked S2000 that I could maybe get the 
engine/gearbox/axle from but before I do that, I think I would just sell 
the car and let someone with lots of cash restore the original motor and 
make it a trailer queen.

     mike

On 06/04/2013 08:39 AM, Michael Rowe wrote:
> I have often wondered why/if this matters.  Do they turn the same 
> direction? If so, and the size is reasonable, I see no special reason 
> why we could not just make the same kind of adaptor we do for Datsun 
> 5-speeds.  It makes more sense than some of the mamouth things we have 
> seen people put in for fun.
>
> Michael Rowe ------------------------
>
> [email-masked]
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 09:28:06 -0700 (PDT)

The Honda Fit engine, I really believe, would be right at home in an LBC. 
Plenty of power, low weight and small size, all aluminum block even down to
the oil sump.  If you look at it an adapter would not be tough at all.  I need
to engineer the kit and make a ton of money. . . .
 
Mike
________________________________
From: Michael Rowe <[email-masked]>
To:
spridgets list <[email-masked]> 
Sent: Tuesday, June 4, 2013 11:39
AM
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] kind of spridget related

> I don't think he
could use this engine directly out of a wrecked Fit.
> They are
transverse/front wheel drive

I have often wondered why/if this matters.  Do
they turn the same direction? 
If so, and the size is reasonable, I see no
special reason why we could not 
just make the same kind of adaptor we do for
Datsun 5-speeds.  It makes more 
sense than some of the mamouth things we have
seen people put in for fun.

Michael Rowe 
------------------------
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: David Booker <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 09:38:00 -0700 (PDT)

Mike... A wrecked S2000? If he does not want a fortune for it, I'd love to buy
the engine / tranny / rear axle / etc. just to keep for whatever project comes
along down the road. (There will one day be a super seven / clubman in my
garage...)

From: Mike Rambour <[email-masked]>
To:
[email-masked] 
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 8:53 PM
Subject: Re:
[Spridgets] kind of spridget related

In my case it would be because I want
to continue using the same wire wheels and already spent a large sum of cash
rebuilding the brakes with beautiful 13" finned drums that are very visible
through the 18" wire wheels.  Making the drums alone was $3,200. Switching to
a front wheel drive would eliminate that, the goal is not to make a hot rod (I
sort have 2 already, not traditional hot rods but really fast), the goal is
just to get the car on the road and make it reliable enough for my wife to
drive it work a day or 2 a week and also for us to take it up Hi. 1 to
Monterey once or twice a year.

I am not against switching the rear axle to
better match the motor/gearbox combo and I have a late (1974?) MG Midget rear
axle that I could put in BUT I will ONLY do that if I can adapt my back plates
and use my brakes and wheels to that axle, the MG axle is about 3/4" wider
than the Singer one so that is not a issue.

I do have a friend with a wrecked
S2000 that I could maybe get the engine/gearbox/axle from but before I do
that, I think I would just sell the car and let someone with lots of cash
restore the original motor and make it a trailer queen.

    mike

On
> I have often wondered why/if this matters.  Do they turn the same
direction? If so, and the size is reasonable, I see no special reason why we
could not just make the same kind of adaptor we do for Datsun 5-speeds.  It
makes more sense than some of the mamouth things we have seen people put in
for fun.
[email-masked]

[email-masked]

Donate:

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Michael Rowe <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2013 15:03:43 -0400

>Switching to a front wheel drive would eliminate that,

I don't think anyone is advocating a front wheel drive, just turning the 
engine to north-south and mounting a standard transmission of some kind.

Michael Rowe 
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: HealeyRick <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 12:35:09 -0700 (PDT)

Mike,

I Googled to see what you have and it's a very handsome car.  Much to
my surprise I found one with an A Series swap already done and also found you
as a site administrator on the thread: 
http://forum.singercars.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=678  I think the 1275 would be
a great swap.  Horsepower would be about the same as original and the motor
doesn't have that modern OHC look.  Best of all, somebody has already done the
swap before so you won't need to reinvent the wheel.  I just can't see putting
something like an S2000 motor in a car like this with an old chassis and
marginal brakes.  The 1275 will let you get it on the road, not overstress the
platform and be reasonably reliable.  Once you start trying to put a modern
fuel injection motor in there you are well on the way to building a hot rod
that doesn't seem to be like the direction you want to go in.

Looks like a
cool project.

Rick

"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy
Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

________________________________
 From:
Mike Rambour <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked] 
Sent:
Saturday, May 18, 2013 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] kind of spridget
related

  I do have a friend with a wrecked S2000 that I could maybe get
the 
engine/gearbox/axle from but before I do that, I think I would just sell
the car and let someone with lots of cash restore the original motor and 
make
it a trailer queen.

     mike
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: Mike Rambour <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 22:14:50 -0700

You are correct its been done on the Le Mans, not just on Rory's car 
on that link you listed but also my 34 Le Mans has A series motor, so I 
already have done this swap before (well I never finished the swap, the 
motor is in but the body is not finished).

  BUT now I want to do it on a 6 cylinder Singer, a much bigger Singer.  
The Le Mans originally had a 972cc 4 cylinder motor so the A series swap 
is a no brainer.  The reason I asked was because I now want to do it to 
the 6 cylinder car.  I think it was agreed to by most on this list that 
the power will be fine, even though I am moving down in cc's, I am 
moving up 30+ years in power and it will work.  This is the car its 
going into
http://singer.rambour.com/4str/

   I am leaning towards the 1275 and a 5-speed from Gerard, I think it 
will work.

   Oh and the best part, I get to remove the 1098 from other car and put 
back in a ORIGINAL motor now that I have one to put in, so I get to keep 
one original car :)

     mike

    On 06/04/2013 12:35 PM, HealeyRick wrote:
> my surprise I found one with an A Series swap already done and also 
> found you as a site administrator on the thread: 
> http://forum.singercars.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=678  I think the 1275 
> would be a great swap.  Horsepower would be about the same as original 
> and the motor doesn't have that modern OHC look.  Best of all, 
> somebody has already done the swap before so you won't need to 
> reinvent the wheel.  I just can't see putting something like an S2000 
> motor in a car like this with an old chassis and marginal brakes.  The 
> 1275 will let you get it on the road, not overstress the platform and 
> be reasonably reliable.  Once you start trying to put a modern fuel 
> injection motor in there you are well on the way to building a hot rod 
> Looks like a cool project.
>
> Rick
------------------------

[email-masked]

---

From: "Richard Ball" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 14:46:40 -0700

The GM Quad 4 might be a nice fit if you have room for a T5 transmission. 
It has good power and support, and has that vintage Offy look when you strip 
the top cover off.  Check out the Quad 4 Rods link.  The FAQ section list 
the engine size.

http://quad4rods.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Quad-4_engine

Rich Ball
'76 Midget
Everett, WA

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Rambour" <[email-masked]>
To: "HealeyRick" <[email-masked]>
Cc: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 10:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] kind of spridget related

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked] 
------------------------

[email-masked]