Subject: Re: [Mgs] Window crank

From: Robert's New iPad <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2022 07:14:44 -0400

Hi Mike,
	It’s both adjustment and lubrication that will help.
	Once the door card is out of the way, you can see how the mechanism works. You can also see how the 50-year-old grease is acting more like adhesive than lubricant. 
	Here is a chance to ensure that the drain holes in the door are clear, then stuff the bottom with rags and use paint thinner or equivalent to clean all the joints, pivots, crank, gears and all the other little moving bits. 
	Have a look at the fit of the glass into the channels. If not about equal top and bottom, adjust the channel.  A bit of silicone spray in them will help, though be careful of overspray.
	Wind the glass up and down until you understand how this unlikely assembly of gears and parallelogram actually moves the glass, the weight of glass supported by the spring.
	Then a spot of oil on the winder’s shaft and the parallelogram pivots, and a little grease on the gears will do the trick. 
	I don’t know of any particular things to do other than clean, lubricate and adjust, though I can safely say that a couple of hours on this project will reward you with a window that is much easier to use.
Bob

> On Sep 14, 2022, at 12:45 AM, Michael MacLean <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> I have broken the plastic window crank several times trying to roll up the driver's side window.  Where is the best place to lubricate the mechanism?  Or, is there an adjustment I can make to the mechanism to take the pressure off the window crank?
> Mike MacLean
> 69 MGB GT
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From: Richard Lindsay <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2022 06:45:32 -0500

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Hello Mike, *et al.*,
   My '72 Tourer suffers with the same issue, if without the broken handle.
I pull up on the glass to ease the crank mechanism. But let me comment
further.
   I just addressed this same issue on my '71 Volvo 1800E. Here's how.
   Carefully remove the handles and the door panel. Take the upper trim bit
off first by removing the four screws. BTW, this is a good time to polish
the chrome bits at the ends. And yes, buy one of those plastic tools to pop
the attachment pins loose. They're genius. With the panel off and any vapor
barrier that still exists lifted away, access to the lock, latch and window
lift mechanism is pretty straight forward. Aside: If the vapor barrier is
missing or damaged, as happens with many PO's, a cheap shower curtain liner
cut to shape, makes an excellent replacement.
   With the panel and barrier off one can clean and lubricate the
mechanisms. With a crank handle back on, the lift mechanism can be run
through its range a number of times, cleaning and lubing as it goes. (Any
oil that drips down into the door will just serve as rustproofing. :-P)
   Feeling how easily the window now moves will tell you whether the glass
tracks are a problem. Visual inspection will reveal just how worn those
tracks might be. Also, keep in mind that POs have often been in our 50+
year old car doors and may have misaligned the tracks! Yeah, just another
thing to check.
   If the glass now moves smoothly, or adequately well, you've solved your
problem. For the glass tracks, worn or fresh, I wash them with SimpleGreen
both above the door top and the bits down in the door. Once dry, test the
glass motion. Better? I've even applied a little lubricant on the tracks
but oil can get messy. So can graphite but both help old tracks if applied
quite sparingly.
   Of course, the problem could be worse yet. The glass tracks could be
damaged beyond simple cleaning. When that is the case there is nothing for
it other than removal, cleaning the frames, and replacement. Moss, etc.,
sells new glass tracks and after proper adjustment and mechanism
lubrication, the glass will move as new!
   Worth adding that this is a good time to clean and lubricate the lock
and latch mechanisms. Adjustment may be needed too as wear or some
ham-fisted PO may have messed with these bits. A flush of WD40 into the
keyway will help too, if making a mess until it dries.
   Good luck! I've done this job a number of times on LBCs and LBOthers.
It's always rewarding, if a bit laborious. And now I'm about to do it again
on my '72.

Rick, '72 MGB Tourer, etc.

On Wed, Sep 14, 2022, 1:19 AM Michael MacLean <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> I have broken the plastic window crank several times trying to roll up the
> driver's side window.  Where is the best place to lubricate the mechanism?
> Or, is there an adjustment I can make to the mechanism to take the pressure
> off the window crank?
> Mike MacLean
>

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Hello Mike, <i>et al.</i>,<div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0=
My &#39;72 Tourer suffers with the same issue, if without the broken handle=
. I pull up on the glass to ease the crank mechanism. But let me comment fu=
rther.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I just addressed this same issue=
 on my &#39;71 Volvo 1800E. Here&#39;s how.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =
=C2=A0Carefully remove the handles and the door panel. Take the upper trim =
bit off first by removing the four screws. BTW, this is a good time to poli=
sh the chrome bits at the ends. And yes, buy one of those plastic tools to =
pop the attachment pins loose. They&#39;re genius. With the panel off and a=
ny vapor barrier that still exists lifted away, access to the lock, latch a=
nd window lift mechanism is pretty straight forward. Aside: If the vapor ba=
rrier is missing or damaged, as happens with many PO&#39;s, a cheap shower =
curtain liner cut to shape, makes an excellent replacement.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0With the panel and barrier off one can clean and lub=
ricate the mechanisms. With a crank handle back on, the lift mechanism can =
be run through its range a number of times, cleaning and lubing as it goes.=
 (Any oil that drips down into the door will just serve as rustproofing. :-=
P)</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Feeling how easily the window now mo=
ves will tell you whether the glass tracks are a problem. Visual inspection=
 will reveal just how worn those tracks might be. Also, keep in mind that P=
Os have often been in our 50+ year old car doors and may have misaligned th=
e tracks! Yeah, just another thing to check.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =
=C2=A0If the glass now moves smoothly, or adequately well, you&#39;ve solve=
d your problem. For the glass tracks, worn or fresh, I wash them with Simpl=
eGreen both above the door top and the bits down in the door. Once dry, tes=
t the glass motion. Better? I&#39;ve even applied a little lubricant on the=
 tracks but oil can get messy. So can graphite but both help old tracks if =
applied quite sparingly.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Of cours=
e, the problem could be worse yet. The glass tracks could be damaged beyond=
 simple cleaning. When that is the case there is nothing for it other than =
removal, cleaning the frames, and replacement. Moss, etc., sells new glass =
tracks and after proper adjustment and mechanism lubrication, the glass wil=
l move as new!</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Worth adding that this i=
s a good time to clean and lubricate the lock and latch mechanisms. Adjustm=
ent may be needed too as wear or some ham-fisted PO may have messed with th=
ese bits. A flush of WD40 into the keyway will help too, if making a mess u=
ntil it dries.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Good luck! I&#39;ve done=
 this job a number of times on LBCs and LBOthers. It&#39;s always rewarding=
, if a bit laborious. And now I&#39;m about to do it again on my &#39;72.</=
div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick, &#39;72 MGB Tourer,=
 etc.<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Sep 14, 2022, 1:19 AM Michael MacLean &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wro=
te:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;b=
order-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">I have broken=
 the plastic window crank several times trying to roll up the driver&#39;s =
side window.=C2=A0 Where is the best place to lubricate the mechanism?=C2=
=A0 Or, is there an adjustment I can make to the mechanism to take the pres=
sure off the window crank?<div dir=3D"auto">Mike MacLean</div></div>
</blockquote></div></div></div>

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[email-masked]

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From: PaulHunt73 <[email-masked]> mghLmR+koFuwxuWSj3iKTrCpbktHmUik4ovrRWEQki+RihLmZ4N+/cVxzoSj/n7/CpTMxtz/RoauWLFplC9qZNsn8V8uudrf5Eo=
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2022 16:04:24 +0100

You can see if it is the runners or the mechanism by winding it half-way 
up, then seeing how easy it is to pull the glass up further by grasping 
it.  Because of the lost motion in the mechanism it should rise about an 
inch or so.  Then wind the handle further to 'catch up' the glass.  If 
the glass is easy to pull up then that is not the problem, and if the 
handle is stiff then the mechanism is the problem.  Or vice-versa.  Or 
both.  One cause of stiff glass is if the rear channel has been pushed 
too tightly onto the glass, slacken the channel fixing screws and ease 
it back a little.

PaulH.

On 14/09/2022 05:45, Michael MacLean wrote:
> I have broken the plastic window crank several times trying to roll up 
> the driver's side window.  Where is the best place to lubricate the 
> mechanism?  Or, is there an adjustment I can make to the mechanism to 
> take the pressure off the window crank?
> Mike MacLean
> 69 MGB GT
>

[email-masked]