Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1972 MGB convertible

From: PaulHunt73 <[email-masked]> iy58133OIF7pb48fBR8jmpFUBWb5j0yDtyP6Gg+1Y9AdKsaUvfDz5x1SzjiGAKlP6aiQxsceeIWbQtZdW0+YcNy5B6W1mUGL/tE=
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2022 08:27:56 +0000

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If it only happened when you turned on the lights, after driving for a 
while, it sounds like the short could be on the lighting circuit.  The 
parking lights at the corners are fused and the flashers but not the 
headlights or the dash lights.

I'd look into that first, the indicator fault could be down to the short 
dropping the voltage.  To protect the wiring from further damage I'd use 
something like an 21w flasher/indicator bulb in series with the supply 
and try the parking lights, panel light switch on and off.  If the test 
bulb lights up brightly the short is present, if dimly then not.  The 
test bulb will need to be in the brown circuit, so you will probably 
have to disconnect them at the solenoid.

But if you drove home with the lights on and no smoke, then the short 
has gone ... until the next time.

PaulH.

On 19/01/2022 02:32, dave northrup wrote:
>
> Swapped transmissions, car runs and drives fine, blinkers worked ok 
> this afternoon until on the way home I switched on the lights.
>
> Smoke from under the dash, I think on the passenger side but not 
> positive. Turned the lights off, turned the car off and popped the 
> hood. No smoke in engine compartment.  Back of light switch was hot 
> but did not burn my finger.
>
>
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    <p>If it only happened when you turned on the lights, after driving
      for a while, it sounds like the short could be on the lighting
      circuit.  The parking lights at the corners are fused and the
      flashers but not the headlights or the dash lights.</p>
    <p>I'd look into that first, the indicator fault could be down to
      the short dropping the voltage.  To protect the wiring from
      further damage I'd use something like an 21w flasher/indicator
      bulb in series with the supply and try the parking lights, panel
      light switch on and off.  If the test bulb lights up brightly the
      short is present, if dimly then not.  The test bulb will need to
      be in the brown circuit, so you will probably have to disconnect
      them at the solenoid.</p>
    <p>But if you drove home with the lights on and no smoke, then the
      short has gone ... until the next time.<br>
    </p>
    <p>PaulH.<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 19/01/2022 02:32, dave northrup
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
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      <div class="WordSection1"><o:p> </o:p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Swapped transmissions, car runs and drives
          fine, blinkers worked ok this afternoon until on the way home
          I switched on the lights.<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Smoke from under the dash, I think on the
          passenger side but not positive. Turned the lights off, turned
          the car off and popped the hood. No smoke in engine
          compartment.  Back of light switch was hot but did not burn my
          finger.<o:p></o:p></p>
      </div>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/[email-masked]

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From: Robert's New iPad <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2022 08:22:28 -0500

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	Headlamps are not fused, nor is the horn.   Blinkers are fused.
	I would have a good look for any wiring that might have been distur=
bed by the engine R&R, though this seems to be a behind-dash situation unles=
s the cover was removed from the steering column during your work. =20
	Signal flasher is over passenger=E2=80=99s knees, or right side, an=
d I recall that all other connections are in the cramped space ahead of the s=
teering wheel. =20
	Arguments are frequent about value of fusing headlamps. When I inst=
alled relays, I installed circuit breakers for them, and fuses for overdrive=
 and fuel pump.  Your fuses will give clues to the search for the problem.=20=

Bob

> On Jan 18, 2022, at 9:32 PM, dave northrup <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> Car seemed to run fine and all lights, blinkers, brake lights, etc. worked=
 when we bought the car a few months ago.  Except it had no reverse; we knew=
 that.
> =20
> Swapped transmissions, car runs and drives fine, blinkers worked ok this a=
fternoon until on the way home I switched on the lights.
> =20
> Smoke from under the dash, I think on the passenger side but not positive.=
 Turned the lights off, turned the car off and popped the hood. No smoke in e=
ngine compartment.  Back of light switch was hot but did not burn my finger.=

> =20
> Started the car up and drove home.  Blinkers don=E2=80=99t work anymore bu=
t I haven=E2=80=99t checked the fuses yet.  The wipers work as does the horn=
.
> =20
> So =E2=80=93 clearly there is a problem, probably a short, probably under t=
he dash.  I have the wiring diagram from Advanceautowire.com.   Clearly I ha=
ve to dive under the dashboard.  Or could it be in the steering column assem=
bly?
> =20
> anyone have a check here first recommendation or a list of what to check f=
irst?
> =20
> Thanks!  wiring doesn=E2=80=99t scare me at all; I=E2=80=99m looking forwa=
rd to solving this. hope you can help.
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>=20
>=20
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/[email-masked]

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><sp=
an class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Headlamps ar=
e not fused, nor is the horn. &nbsp; Blinkers are fused.</div><div dir=3D"lt=
r"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>I wo=
uld have a good look for any wiring that might have been disturbed by the en=
gine R&amp;R, though this seems to be a behind-dash situation unless the cov=
er was removed from the steering column during your work. &nbsp;</div><div d=
ir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</s=
pan>Signal flasher is over passenger=E2=80=99s knees, or right side, and I r=
ecall that all other connections are in the cramped space ahead of the steer=
ing wheel. &nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=
=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Arguments are frequent about value of fusing=
 headlamps. When I installed relays, I installed circuit breakers for them, a=
nd fuses for overdrive and fuel pump. &nbsp;Your fuses will give clues to th=
e search for the problem.&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"=
ltr">Bob</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Jan 18, 202=
2, at 9:32 PM, dave northrup &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">dave@ra=
nteer.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"=
ltr">

<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii">=

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<div class=3D"WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Car seemed to run fine and all lights, blinkers, brak=
e lights, etc. worked when we bought the car a few months ago.&nbsp; Except i=
t had no reverse; we knew that.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Swapped transmissions, car runs and drives fine, blin=
kers worked ok this afternoon until on the way home I switched on the lights=
.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Smoke from under the dash, I think on the passenger s=
ide but not positive. Turned the lights off, turned the car off and popped t=
he hood. No smoke in engine compartment.&nbsp; Back of light switch was hot b=
ut did not burn my finger.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Started the car up and drove home.&nbsp; Blinkers don=
=E2=80=99t work anymore but I haven=E2=80=99t checked the fuses yet.&nbsp; T=
he wipers work as does the horn.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">So =E2=80=93 clearly there is a problem, probably a s=
hort, probably under the dash.&nbsp; I have the wiring diagram from <a href=3D=
"http://Advanceautowire.com">Advanceautowire.com</a>.&nbsp; &nbsp;Clearly I h=
ave to dive under the dashboard.&nbsp; Or could it be in the steering column=
 assembly?<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">anyone have a check here first recommendation or a li=
st of what to check first?<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Thanks!&nbsp; wiring doesn=E2=80=99t scare me at all;=
 I=E2=80=99m looking forward to solving this. hope you can help.<o:p></o:p><=
/p>
</div>

</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>________=
_______________________________________</span><br><span></span><br><span><a h=
ref=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></span><br><span>Don=
ate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.=
html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.75</span><br><s=
pan></span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs">=
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From: PaulHunt73 <[email-masked]> kZpMXQvw42WY6Ek6V+LFRZKIvXnhWXXSNTnQQlDaanqZxGRiLEckVlHNeN+vXGGkJcXufSawF4EvKunQ7cJqcQaL3tBFdUjEEXA=
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2022 14:38:07 +0000

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Horns are always live fused from the factory - purple circuit from the 
fusebox, bottom fuse in the 4-fuse fusebox.  It also powers the 
console-mounted courtesy light, boot/hatch light, brake-test circuit, 
'door open key in' buzzer, and lighter socket where fitted.

If headlamps are fused then at the least it should be one per side (with 
relays), if not one per filament.

PaulH.

On 19/01/2022 13:22, Robert's New iPad wrote:
> I would have a good look for any wiring that might have been disturbed 
> by the engine R&R, though this seems to be a behind-dash situation 
> unless the cover was removed from the steering column during your work.
> Signal flasher is over passenger’s knees, or right side, and I recall 
> that all other connections are in the cramped space ahead of the 
> steering wheel.
> Arguments are frequent about value of fusing headlamps. When I 
> installed relays, I installed circuit breakers for them, and fuses for 
> overdrive and fuel pump.  Your fuses will give clues to the search for 
> the problem.
>
> Bob
>
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    <p>Horns are always live fused from the factory - purple circuit
      from the fusebox, bottom fuse in the 4-fuse fusebox.  It also
      powers the console-mounted courtesy light, boot/hatch light,
      brake-test circuit, 'door open key in' buzzer, and lighter socket
      where fitted.</p>
    <p>If headlamps are fused then at the least it should be one per
      side (with relays), if not one per filament.<br>
    </p>
    <p>PaulH.<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 19/01/2022 13:22, Robert's New iPad
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">	</span>Headlamps
        are not fused, nor is the horn.   Blinkers are fused.</div>
      <div dir="ltr"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">	</span>I
        would have a good look for any wiring that might have been
        disturbed by the engine R&amp;R, though this seems to be a
        behind-dash situation unless the cover was removed from the
        steering column during your work.  </div>
      <div dir="ltr"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">	</span>Signal
        flasher is over passenger’s knees, or right side, and I recall
        that all other connections are in the cramped space ahead of the
        steering wheel.  </div>
      <div dir="ltr"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">	</span>Arguments
        are frequent about value of fusing headlamps. When I installed
        relays, I installed circuit breakers for them, and fuses for
        overdrive and fuel pump.  Your fuses will give clues to the
        search for the problem. </div>
      <div dir="ltr"><br>
      </div>
      <div dir="ltr">Bob</div>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
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[email-masked]

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From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2022 20:13:11 +0100

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I had this problem as well. It was a short circuit between a gauge illumina=
tion wire connector and the heater control cable, which had become lose. Th=
is control cable is made of metal parts =E2=80=93 the inner and outer cable=
s. This makes, that the cable is attached to ground connections =E2=80=93 b=
eginning on the heater valve on the engine block.

This circuit is unfused regrettably.

So I had to replace a part of the wiring loom in the dashboard.

Nasty job, but it is possible to be done in some hours.

Cheers,

Hans

Van: Mgs <[email-masked]> Namens Robert's New iPad
Verzonden: Wednesday, 19 January 2022 14:22
Aan: dave northrup <[email-masked]>
CC: [email-masked]
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] 1972 MGB convertible

                Headlamps are not fused, nor is the horn.   Blinkers are fu=
sed.

                I would have a good look for any wiring that might have bee=
n disturbed by the engine R&R, though this seems to be a behind-dash situat=
ion unless the cover was removed from the steering column during your work.=

                Signal flasher is over passenger=E2=80=99s knees, or right =
side, and I recall that all other connections are in the cramped space ahea=
d of the steering wheel.  

                Arguments are frequent about value of fusing headlamps. Whe=
n I installed relays, I installed circuit breakers for them, and fuses for =
overdrive and fuel pump.  Your fuses will give clues to the search for the =
problem. 

Bob

anteer.com> > wrote:

Car seemed to run fine and all lights, blinkers, brake lights, etc. worked =
when we bought the car a few months ago.  Except it had no reverse; we knew=
 that.

Swapped transmissions, car runs and drives fine, blinkers worked ok this af=
ternoon until on the way home I switched on the lights.

Smoke from under the dash, I think on the passenger side but not positive. =
Turned the lights off, turned the car off and popped the hood. No smoke in =
engine compartment.  Back of light switch was hot but did not burn my finge=
r.

Started the car up and drove home.  Blinkers don=E2=80=99t work anymore but=
 I haven=E2=80=99t checked the fuses yet.  The wipers work as does the horn=
=2E

So =E2=80=93 clearly there is a problem, probably a short, probably under t=
he dash.  I have the wiring diagram from Advanceautowire.com <http://Advanc=
eautowire.com> .   Clearly I have to dive under the dashboard.  Or could it=
 be in the steering column assembly?

anyone have a check here first recommendation or a list of what to check fi=
rst?

Thanks!  wiring doesn=E2=80=99t scare me at all; I=E2=80=99m looking forwar=
d to solving this. hope you can help.

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=
=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>I had =
this problem as well. It was a short circuit between a gauge illumination w=
ire connector and the heater control cable, which had become lose. This con=
trol cable is made of metal parts =E2=80=93 the inner and outer cables. Thi=
s makes, that the cable is attached to ground connections =E2=80=93 beginni=
ng on the heater valve on the engine block.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=
=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>This c=
ircuit is unfused regrettably.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><s=
pan lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>So I had to replace a=
 part of the wiring loom in the dashboard.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D=
MsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Nasty job=
, but it is possible to be done in some hours.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p clas=
s=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>=
&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso=
-fareast-language:EN-US'>Cheers,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=
<span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Hans<o:p></o:p></sp=
an></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB style=3D'mso-fareast-languag=
e:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div style=3D'border:none;border-=
top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>=
Van:</b> Mgs &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>Namens </b>Robert's New =
iPad<br><b>Verzonden:</b> Wednesday, 19 January 2022 14:22<br><b>Aan:</b> d=
ave northrup &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>CC:</b> [email-masked]<br><=
b>Onderwerp:</b> Re: [Mgs] 1972 MGB convertible<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span cl=
ass=3Dapple-tab-span>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 </span>Headlamps are not fused, nor is=
 the horn. &nbsp; Blinkers are fused.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DM=
soNormal><span class=3Dapple-tab-span>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 </span>I would have =
a good look for any wiring that might have been disturbed by the engine R&a=
mp;R, though this seems to be a behind-dash situation unless the cover was =
removed from the steering column during your work. &nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></d=
iv><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span class=3Dapple-tab-span>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=
 </span>Signal flasher is over passenger=E2=80=99s knees, or right side, an=
d I recall that all other connections are in the cramped space ahead of the=
 steering wheel. &nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span=
 class=3Dapple-tab-span>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 </span>Arguments are frequent about=
 value of fusing headlamps. When I installed relays, I installed circuit br=
eakers for them, and fuses for overdrive and fuel pump. &nbsp;Your fuses wi=
ll give clues to the search for the problem.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div=
><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>=
Bob<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></di=
v><div><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><br>On Jan 18, 2=
022, at 9:32 PM, dave northrup &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">dave=
@ranteer.com</a>&gt; wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote style=3D'margin=
-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Car seemed to run=
 fine and all lights, blinkers, brake lights, etc. worked when we bought th=
e car a few months ago.&nbsp; Except it had no reverse; we knew that.<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Swa=
pped transmissions, car runs and drives fine, blinkers worked ok this after=
noon until on the way home I switched on the lights.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=
=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Smoke from under the=
 dash, I think on the passenger side but not positive. Turned the lights of=
f, turned the car off and popped the hood. No smoke in engine compartment.&=
nbsp; Back of light switch was hot but did not burn my finger.<o:p></o:p></=
p><p class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Started th=
e car up and drove home.&nbsp; Blinkers don=E2=80=99t work anymore but I ha=
ven=E2=80=99t checked the fuses yet.&nbsp; The wipers work as does the horn=
=2E<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoN=
ormal>So =E2=80=93 clearly there is a problem, probably a short, probably u=
nder the dash.&nbsp; I have the wiring diagram from <a href=3D"http://Advan=
ceautowire.com">Advanceautowire.com</a>.&nbsp; &nbsp;Clearly I have to dive=
 under the dashboard.&nbsp; Or could it be in the steering column assembly?=
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNorm=
al>anyone have a check here first recommendation or a list of what to check=
 first?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D=
MsoNormal>Thanks!&nbsp; wiring doesn=E2=80=99t scare me at all; I=E2=80=99m=
 looking forward to solving this. hope you can help.<o:p></o:p></p></div></=
blockquote><blockquote style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div>=
<p class=3DMsoNormal>_______________________________________________<br><br=
><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>Donate: <a=
 href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</=
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ef=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br><=
br>Unsubscribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh=
@gmail.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/[email-masked]</a><=
o:p></o:p></p></div></blockquote></div><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4=
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From: dave northrup <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2022 00:34:54 +0000

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From: PaulHunt73 <[email-masked]> +ZZF0WNjmM/mJTIQACcz81iPde0tHaeUj199QQGciqK68AbJ5TyH/XoAEYbBrqHovaXZIMluGvdFoY0uFg6pDab+AW7OzritE2Q=
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2022 09:23:33 +0000

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In that case it sounds like it was an output from the light switch that 
shorted.  Either the blue (headlights) or red/green (parking and 
instrument lights) is probably also damaged, which will indicate (pun 
not intended) where to look next.

Note that if the short caused enough damage inside the switch to open 
the circuit, and disconnect the short, manually reconnecting the wires 
will likely bring it back on again.  With your cut-off switch on tap 
first one then the other of the wires mentioned above onto the brown and 
you should soon see which has the short - if it's still present.

PaulH.

On 23/01/2022 00:34, dave northrup wrote:
>   I noticed that the light switch no longer moves at all.  I cannot 
> get the light switch to toggle at all so likely it is fried.  Next 
> step is to bypass the switch and see if we get lights/action if I 
> manually connect the wires.
>
>
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    <p>In that case it sounds like it was an output from the light
      switch that shorted.  Either the blue (headlights) or red/green
      (parking and instrument lights) is probably also damaged, which
      will indicate (pun not intended) where to look next.</p>
    <p>Note that if the short caused enough damage inside the switch to
      open the circuit, and disconnect the short, manually reconnecting
      the wires will likely bring it back on again.  With your cut-off
      switch on tap first one then the other of the wires mentioned
      above onto the brown and you should soon see which has the short -
      if it's still present.<br>
    </p>
    <p>PaulH.<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 23/01/2022 00:34, dave northrup
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
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      <div class="WordSection1">  I noticed that the light switch no
        longer moves at all.  I cannot get the light switch to toggle at
        all so likely it is fried.  Next step is to bypass the switch
        and see if we get lights/action if I manually connect the wires.
        <o:p></o:p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
      </div>
      <br>
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From: Robert's New iPad <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2022 08:15:51 -0500

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	Condition of the light switch does not sound encouraging, but you m=
ight remove it from the dash, open it, and see if it can be cleaned and save=
d. Original switches were good quality.
	At age 35 or so, my switch was warm to touch. I bought a new one. I=
t was hot to touch. I opened and cleaned original, installed;  it has been h=
appy, and cool, ever since.  Relays were installed later, but well after the=
 old switch was back in service. =20
	Good on you to have a battery cut-off switch.  I am a believer. We k=
now the condition of wires where we can see them, but those we can not see .=
.....
Bob

=09

> On Jan 22, 2022, at 7:34 PM, dave northrup <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> Worked on the car a little today.  discovered that the blinkers do indeed w=
ork so that=E2=80=99s good, and makes sense.=20
> =20
> We have a battery cutoff switch on this car so I decided to try a few thin=
gs.  I noticed that the light switch no longer moves at all.  I cannot get t=
he light switch to toggle at all so likely it is fried.  Next step is to byp=
ass the switch and see if we get lights/action if I manually connect the wir=
es.

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><sp=
an class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Condition of=
 the light switch does not sound encouraging, but you might remove it from t=
he dash, open it, and see if it can be cleaned and saved. Original switches w=
ere good quality.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=
=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>At age 35 or so, my switch was warm to touch=
. I bought a new one. It was hot to touch. I opened and cleaned original, in=
stalled; &nbsp;it has been happy, and cool, ever since. &nbsp;Relays were in=
stalled later, but well after the old switch was back in service. &nbsp;</di=
v><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">=
	</span>Good on you to have a battery cut-off switch. &nbsp;I am a b=
eliever. We know the condition of wires where we can see them, but those we c=
an not see ......</div><div dir=3D"ltr">Bob</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div>=
<div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">=
	</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Jan 22, 2022, at 7:34 PM, dave northru=
p &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br=
><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">

<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8">
span.EmailStyle20

<div class=3D"WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Worked on the car a little today.&nbsp; discovered th=
at the blinkers do indeed work so that=E2=80=99s good, and makes sense.&nbsp=
;
<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">We have a battery cutoff switch on this car so I deci=
ded to try a few things.&nbsp; I noticed that the light switch no longer mov=
es at all.&nbsp; I cannot get the light switch to toggle at all so likely it=
 is fried.&nbsp; Next step is to bypass the switch
 and see if we get lights/action if I manually connect the wires. <o:p></o:p=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">On 19/01/2022 02:32, dave northrup wrote:<o:p></o:p><=
/p>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Swapped transmissions, car runs and drives fine, blin=
kers worked ok this afternoon until on the way home I switched on the lights=
.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Smoke from under the dash, I think on the passenger s=
ide but not positive. Turned the lights off, turned the car off and popped t=
he hood. No smoke in engine compartment.&nbsp; Back of light switch was hot b=
ut did not burn my finger.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>
</blockquote>
</div>

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[email-masked]

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