Subject: Re: [Mgs] Carb cleaning

From: "Osborne, Paul via Mgs" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 12:01:21 +0000

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Use inexpensive engine cleaner first and a brush followed with some carb cl=
eaner in a can.

On Apr 25, 2020, at 6:53 AM, Thomas Gunderson via Mgs <[email-masked]<m=
ailto:[email-masked]>> wrote:

What is a good way to clean SU carbs without removing them?

Tom Gunderson
1957 MGA 1500 rst

Sent from my iPhone X

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Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627
   585-275-5226

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Use inexpensive engine cleaner first and a brush followed with some carb cl=
eaner in a can.&nbsp;
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
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<div class=3D"">On Apr 25, 2020, at 6:53 AM, Thomas Gunderson via Mgs &lt;<=
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wrote:</div>
<br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline">
<div class=3D"">
<div class=3D"">What is a good way to clean SU carbs without removing them?=
<br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
Tom Gunderson<br class=3D"">
1957 MGA 1500 rst<br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
Sent from my iPhone X<br class=3D"">
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<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 12pt; font-size: 12pt;">Pau=
l Osborne<br class=3D"">
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng<br class=3D"">
University of Rochester&nbsp;<br class=3D"">
201 Hopeman Building RC<br class=3D"">
Rochester NY 14627<br class=3D"">
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From: Richard Lindsay via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 07:53:42 -0500

--===============6483993481714852751==

--00000000000064233405a41cf936

Paul had some good suggestions and I agree. But Tom, I find myself
pondering over your word 'clean'. Do you mean 'shine them up' or 'remove
deposits from inside'?  Carb cleaner is good for both jobs and let me add a
word or two if cleaning inside is the quest.

I just cleaned the SUs on my TD and doing so made a world of difference.
But first of all, someone here said, "Most carburetor problems are
electrical." That's a funny turn of phrase but it's true. I tuned and tuned
my TD's SUs before putting the timing light on the TD and discovered that
the timing was jumping around. New springs in the distributor's mechanical
advance calmed the jitter making carburetor tuning a one time affair. But
back to cleaning.

I marked the covers for rotation position, removed the damper pistons, and
removed the covers, setting them aside carefully, labeled 'F' and 'R'. I
then lifted out the air pistons complete with needles, dumped out the oil,
and set them aside with their covers.

Using fresh, clean, pipe cleaners wetted with carb cleaner, I carefully ran
the pipe cleaners up and down the jets, switching to a new pipe cleaner as
the previous one became discolored. I then wiped the chokes clean with a
shop rag and carb cleaner. That finished the carb bodies.

I next cleaned the air pistons and needles with carb cleaner and shop rags
paying particular care to protect the needles. I also sprayed carb cleaner
into the damper bore, washing out any old oil. The insides of the covers
were wiped clean and the piston bores were flushed clean.

I live in a very humid climate where rust flashes quickly. I don't know
whether the air pistons and bores are stainless but I took no chances. I
applied 3-in-1 oil to the air pistons and inserted them into the bores in
the covers, coating all with light oil.

Back at the car I verified that the heights of the jets and were the same
then switched on the fuel pump. Petrol came to the top of one jet but not
to the other. I adjusted the float bowl valve until both levels were the
same.

Back in went the air pistons, the covers on and the screws tightened
gradually checking for proper piston drop as they were snugged down. BTW, I
use lockwashers on the carb bowl screws so they don't work loose but more
importantly, so they don't need to be over-tightened.

The rest is tuning. Airflow was balanced and the mixture was reset.

The part I left out was cleaning the needles but that's quite controversial
so let's leave it at, "I cleaned the needles."

And of course, this is just my story, not an authoritative treatise on SU
maintenance. Maybe it helps someone.

Rick

On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 5:54 AM Thomas Gunderson via Mgs <[email-masked]>
wrote:

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<div dir=3D"auto"><div>Paul had some good suggestions and I agree. But Tom,=
 I find myself pondering over your word &#39;clean&#39;. Do you mean &#39;s=
hine them up&#39; or &#39;remove deposits from inside&#39;?=C2=A0 Carb clea=
ner is good for both jobs and let me add a word or two if cleaning inside i=
s the quest.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I just clea=
ned the SUs on my TD and doing so made a world of difference. But first of =
all, someone here said, &quot;Most carburetor problems are electrical.&quot=
; That&#39;s a funny turn of phrase but it&#39;s true. I tuned and tuned my=
 TD&#39;s SUs before putting the timing light on the TD and discovered that=
 the timing was jumping around. New springs in the distributor&#39;s mechan=
ical advance calmed the jitter making carburetor tuning a one time affair. =
But back to cleaning.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I =
marked the covers for rotation position, removed the damper pistons, and re=
moved the covers, setting them aside carefully, labeled &#39;F&#39; and &#3=
9;R&#39;. I then lifted out the air pistons complete with needles, dumped o=
ut the oil, and set them aside with their covers.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"au=
to"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Using fresh, clean, pipe cleaners wetted wi=
th carb cleaner, I carefully ran the pipe cleaners up and down the jets, sw=
itching to a new pipe cleaner as the previous one became discolored. I then=
 wiped the chokes clean with a shop rag and carb cleaner. That finished the=
 carb bodies.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I next cle=
aned the air pistons and needles with carb cleaner and shop rags paying par=
ticular care to protect the needles. I also sprayed carb cleaner into the d=
amper bore, washing out any old oil. The insides of the covers were wiped c=
lean and the piston bores were flushed clean.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></=
div><div dir=3D"auto">I live in a very humid climate where rust flashes qui=
ckly. I don&#39;t know whether the air pistons and bores are stainless but =
I took no chances. I applied 3-in-1 oil to the air pistons and inserted the=
m into the bores in the covers, coating all with light oil.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Back at the car I verified that the h=
eights of the jets and were the same then switched on the fuel pump. Petrol=
 came to the top of one jet but not to the other. I adjusted the float bowl=
 valve until both levels were the same.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><d=
iv dir=3D"auto">Back in went the air pistons, the covers on and the screws =
tightened gradually checking for proper piston drop as they were snugged do=
wn. BTW, I use lockwashers on the carb bowl screws so they don&#39;t work l=
oose but more importantly, so they don&#39;t need to be over-tightened.</di=
v><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">The rest is tuning. Airflow=
 was balanced and the mixture was reset.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><=
div dir=3D"auto">The part I left out was cleaning the needles but that&#39;=
s quite controversial so let&#39;s leave it at, &quot;I cleaned the needles=
.&quot;</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">And of course, t=
his is just my story, not an authoritative treatise on SU maintenance. Mayb=
e it helps someone.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick=
<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_attr">On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 5:54 AM Thomas Gunderson via Mgs &lt;<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div=
><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1=
px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">What is a good way to clean SU carbs withou=
t removing them?<br>
<br>
Tom Gunderson<br>
1957 MGA 1500 rst<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone X<br>
<br>
<br>
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From: "Osborne, Paul via Mgs" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 00:25:47 +0000

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Rick,   Yes, I wondered what he referred to when he said Clean, thought it =
might be the outward looks possibly not inside and operational. Good commen=
ts below.

paul

On Apr 25, 2020, at 8:53 AM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs <[email-masked]<ma=
ilto:[email-masked]>> wrote:

Paul had some good suggestions and I agree. But Tom, I find myself ponderin=
g over your word 'clean'. Do you mean 'shine them up' or 'remove deposits f=
rom inside'?  Carb cleaner is good for both jobs and let me add a word or t=
wo if cleaning inside is the quest.

I just cleaned the SUs on my TD and doing so made a world of difference. Bu=
t first of all, someone here said, "Most carburetor problems are electrical=
." That's a funny turn of phrase but it's true. I tuned and tuned my TD's S=
Us before putting the timing light on the TD and discovered that the timing=
 was jumping around. New springs in the distributor's mechanical advance ca=
lmed the jitter making carburetor tuning a one time affair. But back to cle=
aning.

I marked the covers for rotation position, removed the damper pistons, and =
removed the covers, setting them aside carefully, labeled 'F' and 'R'. I th=
en lifted out the air pistons complete with needles, dumped out the oil, an=
d set them aside with their covers.

Using fresh, clean, pipe cleaners wetted with carb cleaner, I carefully ran=
 the pipe cleaners up and down the jets, switching to a new pipe cleaner as=
 the previous one became discolored. I then wiped the chokes clean with a s=
hop rag and carb cleaner. That finished the carb bodies.

I next cleaned the air pistons and needles with carb cleaner and shop rags =
paying particular care to protect the needles. I also sprayed carb cleaner =
into the damper bore, washing out any old oil. The insides of the covers we=
re wiped clean and the piston bores were flushed clean.

I live in a very humid climate where rust flashes quickly. I don't know whe=
ther the air pistons and bores are stainless but I took no chances. I appli=
ed 3-in-1 oil to the air pistons and inserted them into the bores in the co=
vers, coating all with light oil.

Back at the car I verified that the heights of the jets and were the same t=
hen switched on the fuel pump. Petrol came to the top of one jet but not to=
 the other. I adjusted the float bowl valve until both levels were the same=
.

Back in went the air pistons, the covers on and the screws tightened gradua=
lly checking for proper piston drop as they were snugged down. BTW, I use l=
ockwashers on the carb bowl screws so they don't work loose but more import=
antly, so they don't need to be over-tightened.

The part I left out was cleaning the needles but that's quite controversial=
 so let's leave it at, "I cleaned the needles."

And of course, this is just my story, not an authoritative treatise on SU m=
aintenance. Maybe it helps someone.

Rick

On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 5:54 AM Thomas Gunderson via Mgs <[email-masked]<=
mailto:[email-masked]>> wrote:
What is a good way to clean SU carbs without removing them?

Tom Gunderson
1957 MGA 1500 rst

Sent from my iPhone X

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<html>
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</head>
<body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-lin=
e-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">
Rick, &nbsp; Yes, I wondered what he referred to when he said Clean, though=
t it might be the outward looks possibly not inside and operational. Good c=
omments below.&nbsp;
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">paul</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
<div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"">
<div class=3D"">On Apr 25, 2020, at 8:53 AM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs &lt;<a=
 href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; w=
rote:</div>
<br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline">
<div class=3D"">
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
<div class=3D"">Paul had some good suggestions and I agree. But Tom, I find=
 myself pondering over your word 'clean'. Do you mean 'shine them up' or 'r=
emove deposits from inside'?&nbsp; Carb cleaner is good for both jobs and l=
et me add a word or two if cleaning inside
 is the quest.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">I just cleaned the SUs on my TD and doing so m=
ade a world of difference. But first of all, someone here said, &quot;Most =
carburetor problems are electrical.&quot; That's a funny turn of phrase but=
 it's true. I tuned and tuned my TD's SUs before
 putting the timing light on the TD and discovered that the timing was jump=
ing around. New springs in the distributor's mechanical advance calmed the =
jitter making carburetor tuning a one time affair. But back to cleaning.</d=
iv>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">I marked the covers for rotation position, rem=
oved the damper pistons, and removed the covers, setting them aside careful=
ly, labeled 'F' and 'R'. I then lifted out the air pistons complete with ne=
edles, dumped out the oil, and set them
 aside with their covers.&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Using fresh, clean, pipe cleaners wetted with =
carb cleaner, I carefully ran the pipe cleaners up and down the jets, switc=
hing to a new pipe cleaner as the previous one became discolored. I then wi=
ped the chokes clean with a shop rag
 and carb cleaner. That finished the carb bodies.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">I next cleaned the air pistons and needles wit=
h carb cleaner and shop rags paying particular care to protect the needles.=
 I also sprayed carb cleaner into the damper bore, washing out any old oil.=
 The insides of the covers were wiped
 clean and the piston bores were flushed clean.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">I live in a very humid climate where rust flas=
hes quickly. I don't know whether the air pistons and bores are stainless b=
ut I took no chances. I applied 3-in-1 oil to the air pistons and inserted =
them into the bores in the covers, coating
 all with light oil.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Back at the car I verified that the heights of=
 the jets and were the same then switched on the fuel pump. Petrol came to =
the top of one jet but not to the other. I adjusted the float bowl valve un=
til both levels were the same.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Back in went the air pistons, the covers on an=
d the screws tightened gradually checking for proper piston drop as they we=
re snugged down. BTW, I use lockwashers on the carb bowl screws so they don=
't work loose but more importantly,
 so they don't need to be over-tightened.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">The rest is tuning. Airflow was balanced and t=
he mixture was reset.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">The part I left out was cleaning the needles b=
ut that's quite controversial so let's leave it at, &quot;I cleaned the nee=
dles.&quot;</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">And of course, this is just my story, not an a=
uthoritative treatise on SU maintenance. Maybe it helps someone.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Rick<br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
<div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 5:54 AM Thomas =
Gunderson via Mgs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">mgs@=
autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br class=3D"">
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
What is a good way to clean SU carbs without removing them?<br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
Tom Gunderson<br class=3D"">
1957 MGA 1500 rst<br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
Sent from my iPhone X<br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
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<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 12pt; font-size: 12pt;">Pau=
l Osborne<br class=3D"">
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng<br class=3D"">
University of Rochester&nbsp;<br class=3D"">
201 Hopeman Building RC<br class=3D"">
Rochester NY 14627<br class=3D"">
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--===============3791292532177038160==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============3791292532177038160==--

---

From: Richard Lindsay via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 20:03:07 -0500

--===============5375027463829531690==

--000000000000ee15ea05a42729b9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I love SUs. They are elegant machines that solve dynamic problems that
later will be solved by computer algorithms!

On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 7:25 PM Osborne, Paul <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Rick,   Yes, I wondered what he referred to when he said Clean, thought i=
t
> might be the outward looks possibly not inside and operational. Good
> comments below.
>
> paul
>
>
> On Apr 25, 2020, at 8:53 AM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs <[email-masked]>
> wrote:
>
> deposits from inside'?  Carb cleaner is good for both jobs and let me add=
 a
> electrical." That's a funny turn of phrase but it's true. I tuned and tun=
ed
> the timing was jumping around. New springs in the distributor's mechanica=
l
> I marked the covers for rotation position, removed the damper pistons, an=
d
> then lifted out the air pistons complete with needles, dumped out the oil=
,
> Using fresh, clean, pipe cleaners wetted with carb cleaner, I carefully
> ran the pipe cleaners up and down the jets, switching to a new pipe clean=
er
> as the previous one became discolored. I then wiped the chokes clean with=
 a
> I next cleaned the air pistons and needles with carb cleaner and shop rag=
s
> paying particular care to protect the needles. I also sprayed carb cleane=
r
> gradually checking for proper piston drop as they were snugged down. BTW,=
 I
> The part I left out was cleaning the needles but that's quite
> controversial so let's leave it at, "I cleaned the needles."
>
> On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 5:54 AM Thomas Gunderson via Mgs <[email-masked]=
t>
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> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng

--000000000000ee15ea05a42729b9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">I love SUs. They are elegant machines that solve dynamic =
problems that later will be solved by computer algorithms!</div><br><div cl=
ass=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Apr 25, 2=
020, 7:25 PM Osborne, Paul &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">pa=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quo=
te" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"=

<div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word">
Rick, =C2=A0 Yes, I wondered what he referred to when he said Clean, though=
t it might be the outward looks possibly not inside and operational. Good c=
omments below.=C2=A0
<div><br>
</div>
<div>paul</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>On Apr 25, 2020, at 8:53 AM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs &lt;<a href=3D"ma=
ilto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]=
m.net</a>&gt; wrote:</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto">
<div>Paul had some good suggestions and I agree. But Tom, I find myself pon=
dering over your word &#39;clean&#39;. Do you mean &#39;shine them up&#39; =
or &#39;remove deposits from inside&#39;?=C2=A0 Carb cleaner is good for bo=
th jobs and let me add a word or two if cleaning inside
 is the quest.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">I just cleaned the SUs on my TD and doing so made a world=
 of difference. But first of all, someone here said, &quot;Most carburetor =
problems are electrical.&quot; That&#39;s a funny turn of phrase but it&#39=
;s true. I tuned and tuned my TD&#39;s SUs before
 putting the timing light on the TD and discovered that the timing was jump=
ing around. New springs in the distributor&#39;s mechanical advance calmed =
the jitter making carburetor tuning a one time affair. But back to cleaning=
.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">I marked the covers for rotation position, removed the da=
mper pistons, and removed the covers, setting them aside carefully, labeled=
 &#39;F&#39; and &#39;R&#39;. I then lifted out the air pistons complete wi=
th needles, dumped out the oil, and set them
 aside with their covers.=C2=A0</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Using fresh, clean, pipe cleaners wetted with carb cleane=
r, I carefully ran the pipe cleaners up and down the jets, switching to a n=
ew pipe cleaner as the previous one became discolored. I then wiped the cho=
kes clean with a shop rag
 and carb cleaner. That finished the carb bodies.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">I next cleaned the air pistons and needles with carb clea=
ner and shop rags paying particular care to protect the needles. I also spr=
ayed carb cleaner into the damper bore, washing out any old oil. The inside=
s of the covers were wiped
 clean and the piston bores were flushed clean.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">I live in a very humid climate where rust flashes quickly=
. I don&#39;t know whether the air pistons and bores are stainless but I to=
ok no chances. I applied 3-in-1 oil to the air pistons and inserted them in=
to the bores in the covers, coating
 all with light oil.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Back at the car I verified that the heights of the jets a=
nd were the same then switched on the fuel pump. Petrol came to the top of =
one jet but not to the other. I adjusted the float bowl valve until both le=
vels were the same.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Back in went the air pistons, the covers on and the screw=
s tightened gradually checking for proper piston drop as they were snugged =
down. BTW, I use lockwashers on the carb bowl screws so they don&#39;t work=
 loose but more importantly,
 so they don&#39;t need to be over-tightened.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">The rest is tuning. Airflow was balanced and the mixture =
was reset.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">The part I left out was cleaning the needles but that&#39=
;s quite controversial so let&#39;s leave it at, &quot;I cleaned the needle=
s.&quot;</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">And of course, this is just my story, not an authoritativ=
e treatise on SU maintenance. Maybe it helps someone.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Rick<br>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 5:54 AM Thomas =
Gunderson via Mgs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blan=
k" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
What is a good way to clean SU carbs without removing them?<br>
<br>
Tom Gunderson<br>
1957 MGA 1500 rst<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone X<br>
<br>
<br>
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<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);letter-spacing:normal;text-align:start;text-=
indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px;word-wra=
p:break-word">
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<div>
<div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word">
<div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word">
<div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word">
<span style=3D"border-collapse:separate;font-variant-ligatures:normal;font-=
variant-numeric:normal;font-variant-alternates:normal;font-variant-east-asi=
an:normal;line-height:normal;border-spacing:0px">
<div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word">
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>
<div>
<div><span style=3D"border-collapse:separate;font-variant-ligatures:normal;=
font-variant-numeric:normal;font-variant-alternates:normal;font-variant-eas=
t-asian:normal;line-height:normal"><span style=3D"border-collapse:separate;=
font-variant-ligatures:normal;font-variant-numeric:normal;font-variant-alte=
rnates:normal;font-variant-east-asian:normal;line-height:normal">
<div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word">
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin:0in 0in 12pt;font-size:12pt">Paul Os=
borne<br>
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng<br>
University of Rochester=C2=A0<br>
201 Hopeman Building RC<br>
Rochester NY 14627<br>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</span></span></div>
</div>
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<div><span style=3D"font-size:16px">=C2=A0 =C2=A0585-275-5226</span><span s=
tyle=3D"white-space:pre-wrap">
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<br>
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</blockquote></div>

--000000000000ee15ea05a42729b9--

--===============5375027463829531690==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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[email-masked]

--===============5375027463829531690==--

---

From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 16:19:56 +0100 go1DgEqvPP22Pd+Nn20vZHhxmtN5SrTWP828PGROB6v4i3m6TZ/wVnQpVQf02zZcZPAKAYp92SsboA==

Depends how far you want to go.  Aerosol carb cleaner will blast external 
oil/grime off the bodies and linkages as it (what we get in the UK anyway) 
is more powerful than other aerosols.  But it won't shine them up, just 
leave the alloy much the same as it was before they got mucky i.e. anything 
from polished to oxidised.

If you want to go further you can take the covers off, noting which came off 
each carb, and take the pistons out - carefully - again noting which came 
from each carb.  The carb cleaner will blast black combustion residue off 
both in my experience, and from the inside of the body.  There is a slight 
risk of pushing something into the jets that shouldn't be there with that 
last part, unless you plug them with something like a toothpick perhaps.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

[email-masked]