Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB

From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 15:12:53 +0100 uZfI3bz10RE+2NO381j4W1ZhuNC+0pQG/2UxnglK+LYvsqVjH13KRgfwnCjLB6lXpwAnjg3nO20HImBLd5njkMZqzWVbEhtCc2k=

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Yes, but it would be tricky getting a tube in somewhere to go to the =
bottom of the block.  You might have to take the pump off, that gives =
quite good access, then raise the rear of the car enough to tilt the =
engine forwards.  Flush the heater as well, that's relatively easy.

PaulH. =20
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  Yeah, I went out to the garage last night and tried, yet again, to get =
a piece of coathanger wire up into that passage without avail. I may =
have a more flexible piece of wire to try this evening. It may nit be =
the end of the world, but I like for things to work if they will. Had I =
known this would he an issue when I had the head off about five years =
ago, I would have tried to remedy it then.=20

  Could I suck the coolant out with a shop vac?

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Yes, but it would be tricky getting a tube in =
somewhere to go=20
to the bottom of the block.&nbsp; You might have to take the pump off, =
that=20
gives quite good access, then raise the rear of the car&nbsp;enough to =
tilt the=20
engine forwards.&nbsp; Flush the heater as well, that's relatively=20
easy.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
dir=3Dltr>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt">
  <DIV dir=3Dauto>Yeah, I went out to the garage last night and tried, =
yet again,=20
  to get a piece of coathanger wire up into that passage without avail. =
I may=20
  have a more flexible piece of wire to try this evening. It may nit be =
the end=20
  of the world, but I like for things to work if they will. Had I known =
this=20
  would he an issue when I had the head off about five years ago, I =
would have=20
  tried to remedy it then.&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dauto><BR></DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dauto>Could I suck the coolant out with a shop vac?</DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dauto>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: Richard Lindsay via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 10:15:54 -0500

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I've often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris out by running the
engine and flowing water through. However, any system that flushes tends to
put the output debris in the radiator! How about disconnecting the TOP
hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting the output from
the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried this?

On Thu, May 9, 2019, 10:09 AM PaulHunt73 via Mgs <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Yes, but it would be tricky getting a tube in somewhere to go to the
> bottom of the block.  You might have to take the pump off, that gives quite
> good access, then raise the rear of the car enough to tilt the engine
> forwards.  Flush the heater as well, that's relatively easy.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Yeah, I went out to the garage last night and tried, yet again, to get a
> piece of coathanger wire up into that passage without avail. I may have a
> more flexible piece of wire to try this evening. It may nit be the end of
> the world, but I like for things to work if they will. Had I known this
> would he an issue when I had the head off about five years ago, I would
> have tried to remedy it then.
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;ve often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris=
 out by running the engine and flowing water through. However, any system t=
hat flushes tends to put the output debris in the radiator! How about disco=
nnecting the TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting t=
he output from the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried this?</div><br><di=
v class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, May 9=
, 2019, 10:09 AM PaulHunt73 via Mgs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
t">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex=
"><u></u>

<div style=3D"MARGIN-BOTTOM:45px" bgcolor=3D"#ffffff">
<div><font size=3D"2">Yes, but it would be tricky getting a tube in somewhe=
re to go=20
to the bottom of the block.=C2=A0 You might have to take the pump off, that=
=20
gives quite good access, then raise the rear of the car=C2=A0enough to tilt=
 the=20
engine forwards.=C2=A0 Flush the heater as well, that&#39;s relatively=20
easy.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2">PaulH.=C2=A0 </font></div>
<blockquote style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:#000000 2px solid;PADDING-LEFT:5px;PADDING=
-RIGHT:0px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;MARGIN-RIGHT:0px" dir=3D"ltr">
  <div style=3D"FONT:10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
  <div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:10pt">
  <div dir=3D"auto">Yeah, I went out to the garage last night and tried, ye=
t again,=20
  to get a piece of coathanger wire up into that passage without avail. I m=
ay=20
  have a more flexible piece of wire to try this evening. It may nit be the=
 end=20
  of the world, but I like for things to work if they will. Had I known thi=
s=20
  would he an issue when I had the head off about five years ago, I would h=
ave=20
  tried to remedy it then.=C2=A0</div>
  <div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>
  <div dir=3D"auto">Could I suck the coolant out with a shop vac?</div>
  <div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0</div></div></blockquote></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
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<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">=
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[email-masked]

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From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 16:37:35 +0100 kF4WohbZ4DU3CJ9yafccnJQRm9mAnZHAt87C3WjTuUNix1xmv/mphGOkoYlD7+JNVEmMNwqmIC4/XieJIb96hus7kn21foJs8yaAvtj/unxBjcxsuXsgPbrO

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Thermostat probably closed so that would need to be removed.  Even then =
would the water take the shortest route?  I.e. running the engine more =
effective?
  ----- Original Message -----=20

  I've often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris out by running =
the engine and flowing water through. However, any system that flushes =
tends to put the output debris in the radiator! How about disconnecting =
the TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting the =
output from the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried this?

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thermostat probably closed so that would need to be=20
removed.&nbsp; Even then would the water take the shortest=20
route?&nbsp;&nbsp;I.e. running the engine&nbsp;more =
effective?</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
dir=3Dltr>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dauto>I've often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris =
out by=20
  running the engine and flowing water through. However, any system that =
flushes=20
  tends to put the output debris in the radiator! How about =
disconnecting the=20
  TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting the =
output from=20
  the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried this?</DIV>
  <DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>
  <BLOCKQUOTE=20
  style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; =
PADDING-LEFT: 1ex"=20
  =
class=3Dgmail_quote>&nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: David Councill via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 08:54:28 -0700

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It has been a number of years since I have had the need to do a through =
cleaning and flush of the coolant system, my earlier 71BGT being one car =
in particular. So I am not sure how dated this is but there is or was a =
cleaning kit available at car parts stores that contained oxalic acid =
(crystalline form) that was poured into the radiator. Then the car was =
driven for 10-15 minutes, the coolant drained, and the system flushed. =
There was also a flush kit available from Prestone that introduces a tee =
in the heater to engine block hose that allows you to connect a water =
hose to it. With a hose connected and on, radiator cap removed, the =
system was flushed until the water was clear. I think the last time I =
used this method was on a Chevy S10 about 15 years ago.=20

=20

David Councill

1964 MGB

1967 MGBGT

1972 MGB

=20

From: Mgs <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Richard Lindsay via =
Mgs
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2019 8:16 AM
To: PaulHunt73 <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked]; [email-masked] List <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB

=20

I've often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris out by running the =
engine and flowing water through. However, any system that flushes tends =
to put the output debris in the radiator! How about disconnecting the =
TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting the output =
from the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried this?

=20

=20

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>It has =
been a number of years since I have had the need to do a through =
cleaning and flush of the coolant system, my earlier 71BGT being one car =
in particular. So I am not sure how dated this is but there is or was a =
cleaning kit available at car parts stores that contained oxalic acid =
(crystalline form) that was poured into the radiator. Then the car was =
driven for 10-15 minutes, the coolant drained, and the system flushed. =
There was also a flush kit available from Prestone that introduces a tee =
in the heater to engine block hose that allows you to connect a water =
hose to it. With a hose connected and on, radiator cap removed, the =
system was flushed until the water was clear. I think the last time I =
used this method was on a Chevy S10 about 15 years ago. =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>David Councill<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>1964 =
MGB<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>1967 MGBGT<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>1972 MGB<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> =
Mgs &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Richard =
Lindsay via Mgs<br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, May 09, 2019 8:16 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> PaulHunt73 =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Cc:</b> [email-masked]; =
[email-masked] List &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> =
Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I've =
often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris out by running the =
engine and flowing water through. However, any system that flushes tends =
to put the output debris in the radiator! How about disconnecting the =
TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting the output =
from the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried =
this?<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5=
.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></blockquote></div></div></body></=
html>
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[email-masked]

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From: Richard Lindsay via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 11:53:42 -0500

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--000000000000972a2b0588774b20

All probably true, certainly the thermostat. I wonder if opening the block
drain while flushing would help clear debris? The maximum safe cooling
needed during a flush, with a running engine, would be the head.

My interest in this topic, beyond the academic value, is that I am about to
start a '75 Triumph TR6 that certainly has rust scale in the block (and
head). The radiator has been reverse flushed and flows cleanly in both
directions. I don't want to plug it up so I will do 'something'. Hummm...

Rick

On Thu, May 9, 2019, 10:52 AM PaulHunt73 <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Thermostat probably closed so that would need to be removed.  Even then
> would the water take the shortest route?  I.e. running the engine more
> effective?
>

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<div dir=3D"auto"><div>All probably true, certainly the thermostat. I wonde=
r if opening the block drain while flushing would help clear debris? The ma=
ximum safe cooling needed during a flush, with a running engine, would be t=
he head.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">My intere=
st in this topic, beyond the academic value, is that I am about to start a =
&#39;75 Triumph TR6 that certainly has rust scale in the block (and head). =
The radiator has been reverse flushed and flows cleanly in both directions.=
 I don&#39;t want to plug it up so I will do &#39;something&#39;. Hummm...<=
/div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick<br><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu,=
 May 9, 2019, 10:52 AM PaulHunt73 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:paulhunt73@virginme=
dia.com">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote cla=
ss=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;pa=
dding-left:1ex"><u></u>

<div bgcolor=3D"#ffffff">
<div><font size=3D"2">Thermostat probably closed so that would need to be=
=20
removed.=C2=A0 Even then would the water take the shortest=20
route?=C2=A0=C2=A0I.e. running the engine=C2=A0more effective?</font></div>
<blockquote style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:#000000 2px solid;PADDING-LEFT:5px;PADDING=
-RIGHT:0px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;MARGIN-RIGHT:0px" dir=3D"ltr">
  <div style=3D"FONT:10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
  <div><font size=3D"2"></font><br></div>
  <div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;ve often wrestled with this. I usually flush debr=
is out by=20
  running the engine and flowing water through. However, any system that fl=
ushes=20
  tends to put the output debris in the radiator! How about disconnecting t=
he=20
  TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting the output f=
rom=20
  the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried this?</div>
  <div class=3D"gmail_quote">
  <blockquote style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:#ccc 1px solid;MARGIN:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;=
PADDING-LEFT:1ex" class=3D"gmail_quote">=C2=A0</blockquote></div></blockquo=
te></div>
</blockquote></div></div></div>

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[email-masked]

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From: dave via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 21:26:08 -0500

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Here is what I do =E2=80=93 remove the thermostat, then put a pvc pipe =
into the radiator outlet hose that extends beyond the car so that the =
water doesn=E2=80=99t get thrown around by the fan, put a running water =
hose in the inlet hose, and run the engine until the water runs clear.  =
Open the heater as much as possible as well.

=20

Although I have never done it, I have thought about buying a couple =
gallons of rust remover and putting that in the engine and letting it =
sit for a day or two.  Has anyone actually done that?

=20

Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2019 11:54 AM

=20

All probably true, certainly the thermostat. I wonder if opening the =
block drain while flushing would help clear debris? The maximum safe =
cooling needed during a flush, with a running engine, would be the head. =

=20

My interest in this topic, beyond the academic value, is that I am about =
to start a '75 Triumph TR6 that certainly has rust scale in the block =
(and head). The radiator has been reverse flushed and flows cleanly in =
both directions. I don't want to plug it up so I will do 'something'. =
Hummm...

=20

Rick

On Thu, May 9, 2019, 10:52 AM PaulHunt73 <[email-masked] =

=20

=20

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Here is =
what I do =E2=80=93 remove the thermostat, then put a pvc pipe into the =
radiator outlet hose that extends beyond the car so that the water =
doesn=E2=80=99t get thrown around by the fan, put a running water hose =
in the inlet hose, and run the engine until the water runs clear.=C2=A0 =
Open the heater as much as possible as well.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Although I =
have never done it, I have thought about buying a couple gallons of rust =
remover and putting that in the engine and letting it sit for a day or =
two.=C2=A0 Has anyone actually done that?<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> =
Mgs &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Richard =
Lindsay via Mgs<br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, May 9, 2019 11:54 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> PaulHunt73 =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Cc:</b> [email-masked]; =
[email-masked] List &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> =
Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>All probably true, certainly the thermostat. I wonder =
if opening the block drain while flushing would help clear debris? The =
maximum safe cooling needed during a flush, with a running engine, would =
be the head.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>My interest in this topic, beyond the academic value, =
is that I am about to start a '75 Triumph TR6 that certainly has rust =
scale in the block (and head). The radiator has been reverse flushed and =
flows cleanly in both directions. I don't want to plug it up so I will =
do 'something'. Hummm...<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Rick<o:p></o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On Thu, May 9, 2019, 10:52 AM PaulHunt73 &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>=
&gt; wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Thermostat probably =
closed so that would need to be removed.&nbsp; Even then would the water =
take the shortest route?&nbsp;&nbsp;I.e. running the engine&nbsp;more =
effective?</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
4.0pt;margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:=
5.0pt'><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>----- Original =
Message ----- <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>I've often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris =
out by running the engine and flowing water through. However, any system =
that flushes tends to put the output debris in the radiator! How about =
disconnecting the TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and =
ducting the output from the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried =
this?<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div></blockquote></=
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[email-masked]

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---

From: i erbs via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2019 07:41:28 -0700

--===============8970355125692169136==

--0000000000008d19110588757274

I am working to drain the coolant from my Healey to flush the cooling
system ahead of swapping in an Aluminum Radiator. The heater valve on the
block is stuck open. Not a bad thing, but I want it to work, so I have been
messing with it off and on the two weeks.
So yes I get the idea of wanting things to work.
Cheers
Will be attacking my B this summer, so this discussion is very helpful
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes

1967 MGB  

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words

On Thu, May 9, 2019 at 6:45 AM wkilleffer--- via Mgs <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> *Sent from my LG Mobile*
> ------ Original message------
> *From: *PaulHunt73
> *Date: *Thu, May 9, 2019 3:44 AM
> *To: *Dan DiBiase;[email-masked];
> *Cc: [email-masked];
> *Subject:*Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB
>
> Even if you remove the radiator altogether the block is still half full of
> old coolant, and removing the water pump doesn't get much more out.
> Remember the original poster was asking how to get the bad coolant out.  Having
> a drain point on the rad is convenient for a simple drain and refill, but
> that's all.
>
> You can drain a roadster cleanly without that by shoving a piece of card
> under the hose and past the cross-member over a bowl, slacken the hose clip
> and push it right back, then push a blunt screwdriver up between hose and
> rad port.  It only trickles out, but I leave it to do that while I get on
> with the next phase of the job.
>
> I'd be surprised if the later engines didn't have the drain plug (replaced
> the tap a long time before that) below and to the right of the oil gauge
> connection, but try as I might with stiff wire I didn't get any more than a
> rusty dampness below it.  Frequently clogged with casting sand, some have
> had to 'chisel' it out with rods after removing the head.
>
> PaulH.
>
> On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain valve. You have to pull the
> lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the coolant. It's a mess.
> Need a really wide pan on the ground underneath, and even then it tends to
> run along the front crossmember and steering rack and make a mess.
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/[email-masked]
>

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I am working to drain the coolant from my Healey to flush =
the cooling system ahead of swapping in an Aluminum Radiator. The heater va=
lve on the block is stuck open. Not a bad thing, but I want it to work, so =
I have been messing with it off and on the two weeks.=C2=A0<div>So yes I ge=
t the idea of wanting things to work.</div><div>Cheers</div><div>Will be at=
tacking my B this summer, so this discussion is very helpful<br clear=3D"al=
l"><div><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_=
signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><di=
v><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div di=
r=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr">Ira Erbs<div>Portland,OR</div><div><span style=
=3D"font-family:&#39;Times New Roman&#39;,serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 _____=
__ =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0_______</span><br style=3D"=
font-family:&#39;Times New Roman&#39;,serif"><span style=3D"font-family:&#3=
9;Times New Roman&#39;,serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 (______ \____1959 BN4____=
/ _______)</span><br style=3D"font-family:&#39;Times New Roman&#39;,serif">=
<span style=3D"font-family:&#39;Times New Roman&#39;,serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 (_________________________)</span></div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 BT7 engine and disk brakes</div><div><br></div><di=
v><br></div><div>1967 MGB =C2=A0<img src=3D"http://www.britishcarspecialist=
s.com/assets/images/MG_emblem.jpg" alt=3D"MG"></div><div><br></div><div><sp=
an style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,Helv=
etica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:14px">A racing car is an animal with a tho=
usand adjustments. Mario Andretti</span><br></div><div>Please excuse random=
 auto corrects and misspelled words</div></div></div></div></div></div></di=
v></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><br></div></d=
iv><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On =
Thu, May 9, 2019 at 6:45 AM wkilleffer--- via Mgs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mgs=
@autox.team.net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote cla=
ss=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid =
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">

<div style=3D"margin-bottom:45px">
    <div style=3D"font-size:10pt"><div dir=3D"auto">Yeah, I went out to the=
 garage last night and tried, yet again, to get a piece of coathanger wire =
up into that passage without avail. I may have a more flexible piece of wir=
e to try this evening. It may nit be the end of the world, but I like for t=
hings to work if they will. Had I known this would he an issue when I had t=
he head off about five years ago, I would have tried to remedy it then.=C2=
=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Could I suck the coo=
lant out with a shop vac?</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div id=3D"gmail=
-m_-3462595765731024751LGEmailSignatureBox" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"auto">=
<i>Sent from my LG Mobile</i></div></div></div><div style=3D"font-size:10pt=
"><div id=3D"gmail-m_-3462595765731024751LGEmailHeader" dir=3D"auto"><div d=
ir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">------ Original message------</div>=
<div dir=3D"auto"><b>From: </b>PaulHunt73<u></u><u></u></div><div dir=3D"au=
to"><b>Date: </b>Thu, May 9, 2019 3:44 AM<u></u><div dir=3D"auto"><b>To: </=
b>Dan DiBiase<a href=3D"mailto:;[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">;wk=
[email-masked]</a>;</div><div dir=3D"auto"><b>Cc: </b><a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>;</div><div di=
r=3D"auto"><b>Subject:</b>Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB</div><div di=
r=3D"auto"><br></div></div>
<div><font size=3D"2">Even if you remove the radiator altogether the block =
is still=20
half full of old coolant, and removing the water pump doesn&#39;t get much =
more=20
out.=C2=A0 Remember the original poster was asking how to get the bad coola=
nt=20
out.=C2=A0 </font><font size=3D"2">Having a drain point on the rad is conve=
nient for=20
a simple drain and refill, but that&#39;s all.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2">You can drain a roadster cleanly without that by shov=
ing a=20
piece of card under the hose and past the cross-member over a bowl, slacken=
 the=20
hose clip and push it right back, then push a blunt screwdriver up between =
hose=20
and rad port.=C2=A0 It only trickles out, but I leave it to=C2=A0do that wh=
ile I=20
get on with the next phase of the job.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2">I&#39;d be surprised if the later engines didn&#39;t =
have the drain=20
plug (replaced the tap a long time before that) below and to the right of t=
he=20
oil gauge connection, but try as I might with stiff wire I didn&#39;t get a=
ny more=20
than a rusty dampness below it.=C2=A0 Frequently clogged with casting sand,=
 some=20
have had to &#39;chisel&#39; it out with rods after removing the head.</fon=
t></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2">PaulH.</font></div>
<blockquote>
  <div style=3D"font:10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
  <div><font size=3D"2"></font>=C2=A0</div>
  <div dir=3D"ltr">On my &#39;76B, with &#39;77 engine, there is no drain v=
alve. You have to=20
  pull the lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the coolant. It=
&#39;s a=20
  mess. Need a really wide pan on the ground underneath, and even then it t=
ends=20
  to run along the front crossmember and steering rack and make a=20
mess.</div></blockquote></div>

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