Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB steering rack

From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 15:43:26 +0100 5hEEr8E7T8nXu1VSdq7hlG4zMKW5B3RgM/EWuCU7YM99+pu7Q4BicjXpaRzaawJ1sA5CjEz7KiqYVQ==

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The oiling nipple was only on early racks.  Some remove the pinion cover =
and damper piston and pour it in there.  Personally I've removed the tie =
or clamp from the large end of one of the gaiters, gripped that from =
underneath between thumb and forefinger to stop oil leaking out the =
bottom, then injected oil in the top between gaiter and housing.  =
However it then dripped for several weeks from the pinion seal, so I =
probably needn't have bothered.  On a gaiter change on both cars the =
innards have been wet with oil, so plenty of lubrication I suspect.  =
Modern replacements tend to be grease-filled these days.

If someone has tried to compensate for a worn rack by adjusting the =
shims, it's possible to exchange sloppiness in the straight-ahead =
position for stiffness at the extremities.  If you slacken the pinion =
cover bolts slightly and the rack gets looser at the extremities then =
that's probably what has happened.

You can always disconnect the drivers-side gaiter from the rack housing =
and inspect the rack and pinion at each lock fairly well.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----=20

  While doing pre-season routine maintenance on my =E2=80=9871 B/GT =
recently, my mechanic & I decided it would be wise to make sure the =
steering rack had plenty of oil.  The factory service manual has =
instructions and a diagram for filling via a nipple on the housing =
=E2=80=93 but we can=E2=80=99t find any such fitting (or even a plug), =
after cleaning off years of dirt.  No oil is presently leaking out of =
the boots, but it=E2=80=99s possible that it all leaked out many years =
ago, before we bought the car.  (The steering is a bit sticky when =
returning from full lock.)
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<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
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<BODY dir=3Dltr bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The oiling nipple was only on early racks.&nbsp; =
Some remove=20
the pinion cover and damper piston and pour it in there.&nbsp; =
Personally I've=20
removed the tie or clamp from the large end of one of the gaiters, =
gripped that=20
from underneath between thumb and forefinger to stop oil leaking out the =
bottom,=20
then injected oil in the top between gaiter and housing.&nbsp; However =
it then=20
dripped for several weeks from the pinion seal, so I probably needn't =
have=20
bothered.&nbsp; On a gaiter change on both cars the innards have been =
wet with=20
oil, so plenty of lubrication I suspect.&nbsp; Modern replacements tend =
to be=20
grease-filled these days.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If someone has tried to compensate for a worn rack =
by=20
adjusting the shims, it's possible to exchange sloppiness in the =
straight-ahead=20
position for stiffness at the extremities.&nbsp; If you slacken the =
pinion cover=20
bolts slightly and the rack gets looser at the&nbsp;extremities then =
that's=20
probably what has happened.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>You can always&nbsp;disconnect the drivers-side=20
gaiter&nbsp;from the rack housing and inspect the rack and pinion =
at&nbsp;each=20
lock fairly well.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dltr>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: =
12pt">
  <DIV>While doing pre-season routine maintenance on my =E2=80=9871 B/GT =
recently, my=20
  mechanic &amp; I decided it would be wise to make sure the steering =
rack had=20
  plenty of oil.&nbsp; The factory service manual has instructions and a =
diagram=20
  for filling via a nipple on the housing =E2=80=93 but we can=E2=80=99t =
find any such fitting=20
  (or even a plug), after cleaning off years of dirt.&nbsp; No oil is =
presently=20
  leaking out of the boots, but it=E2=80=99s possible that it all leaked =
out many years=20
  ago, before we bought the car.&nbsp; (The steering is a bit sticky =
when=20
  returning from full =
lock.)</DIV></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: Robert's New iPad via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 12:01:19 -0400

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   A method I have used, conveniently and cleanly, was to inject the oil wit=
h a 50CC syringe, the larger size that a veterinarian uses for large animals=
.  A six-inch piece of small ID tubing, from the hardware store, to fit the s=
yringe will slide into the small end of the boot past the tie-rods.
   Racks contained only 1/3 pint.  That will lie in the rack and bottom of t=
he bellows so that determination if there is oil inside can be done only by l=
oosening the large ends and letting it out. Not helpful, and the large end w=
ill probably leak afterward. =20
  A few squirts with the syringe will get in sufficient oil.  It is importan=
t to not over-fill, as that gives no room for the air displaced when the rac=
k goes lock-to-lock, thus can burst a boot.
Bob

> On May 1, 2019, at 10:43 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <[email-masked]> wrote=
:
>=20
> The oiling nipple was only on early racks.  Some remove the pinion cover a=
nd damper piston and pour it in there.  Personally I've removed the tie or c=
lamp from the large end of one of the gaiters, gripped that from underneath b=
etween thumb and forefinger to stop oil leaking out the bottom, then injecte=
d oil in the top between gaiter and housing.  However it then dripped for se=
veral weeks from the pinion seal, so I probably needn't have bothered.  On a=
 gaiter change on both cars the innards have been wet with oil, so plenty of=
 lubrication I suspect.  Modern replacements tend to be grease-filled these d=
ays.
> =20
> If someone has tried to compensate for a worn rack by adjusting the shims,=
 it's possible to exchange sloppiness in the straight-ahead position for sti=
ffness at the extremities.  If you slacken the pinion cover bolts slightly a=
nd the rack gets looser at the extremities then that's probably what has hap=
pened.
> =20
> You can always disconnect the drivers-side gaiter from the rack housing an=
d inspect the rack and pinion at each lock fairly well.
> =20
> =20
> While doing pre-season routine maintenance on my =E2=80=9871 B/GT recently=
, my mechanic & I decided it would be wise to make sure the steering rack ha=
d plenty of oil.  The factory service manual has instructions and a diagram f=
or filling via a nipple on the housing =E2=80=93 but we can=E2=80=99t find a=
ny such fitting (or even a plug), after cleaning off years of dirt.  No oil i=
s presently leaking out of the boots, but it=E2=80=99s possible that it all l=
eaked out many years ago, before we bought the car.  (The steering is a bit s=
ticky when returning from full lock.)
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>=20
>=20
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/[email-masked]

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">&nb=
sp; &nbsp;A method I have used, conveniently and cleanly, was to inject the o=
il with a 50CC syringe, the larger size that a veterinarian uses for large a=
nimals. &nbsp;A six-inch piece of small ID tubing, from the hardware store, t=
o fit the syringe will slide into the small end of the boot past the tie-rod=
s.</div><div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp; &nbsp;Racks contained only 1/3 pint. &nbsp;T=
hat will lie in the rack and bottom of the bellows so that determination if t=
here is oil inside can be done only by loosening the large ends and letting i=
t out. Not helpful, and the large end will probably leak afterward. &nbsp;</=
div><div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp; A few squirts with the syringe will get in suffi=
cient oil. &nbsp;It is important to not over-fill, as that gives no room for=
 the air displaced when the rack goes lock-to-lock, thus can burst a boot.</=
div><div dir=3D"ltr">Bob</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><b=
r>On May 1, 2019, at 10:43 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mgs@=
autox.team.net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote t=
ype=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">

<meta content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3D"Content-Type">
<meta name=3D"GENERATOR" content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
<style></style>

<div><font size=3D"2">The oiling nipple was only on early racks.&nbsp; Some r=
emove=20
the pinion cover and damper piston and pour it in there.&nbsp; Personally I'=
ve=20
removed the tie or clamp from the large end of one of the gaiters, gripped t=
hat=20
from underneath between thumb and forefinger to stop oil leaking out the bot=
tom,=20
then injected oil in the top between gaiter and housing.&nbsp; However it th=
en=20
dripped for several weeks from the pinion seal, so I probably needn't have=20=

bothered.&nbsp; On a gaiter change on both cars the innards have been wet wi=
th=20
oil, so plenty of lubrication I suspect.&nbsp; Modern replacements tend to b=
e=20
grease-filled these days.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font size=3D"2">If someone has tried to compensate for a worn rack by=20=

adjusting the shims, it's possible to exchange sloppiness in the straight-ah=
ead=20
position for stiffness at the extremities.&nbsp; If you slacken the pinion c=
over=20
bolts slightly and the rack gets looser at the&nbsp;extremities then that's=20=

probably what has happened.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font size=3D"2">You can always&nbsp;disconnect the drivers-side=20
gaiter&nbsp;from the rack housing and inspect the rack and pinion at&nbsp;ea=
ch=20
lock fairly well.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font size=3D"2">PaulH.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<blockquote style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADD=
ING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
  <div><font size=3D"2"></font><br></div>
  <div dir=3D"ltr">
  <div style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12pt">
  <div>While doing pre-season routine maintenance on my =E2=80=9871 B/GT rec=
ently, my=20
  mechanic &amp; I decided it would be wise to make sure the steering rack h=
ad=20
  plenty of oil.&nbsp; The factory service manual has instructions and a dia=
gram=20
  for filling via a nipple on the housing =E2=80=93 but we can=E2=80=99t fin=
d any such fitting=20
  (or even a plug), after cleaning off years of dirt.&nbsp; No oil is presen=
tly=20
  leaking out of the boots, but it=E2=80=99s possible that it all leaked out=
 many years=20
  ago, before we bought the car.&nbsp; (The steering is a bit sticky when=20=

  returning from full lock.)</div></div></div></blockquote>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>________=
_______________________________________</span><br><span></span><br><span><a h=
ref=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></span><br><span>Don=
ate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.=
html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.75</span><br><s=
pan></span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs">=
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