Subject: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB

From: wkilleffer--- via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 08 May 2019 11:26:17 -0400

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Hello everyone,The car I will be working on is a 1974 B with an 18GK engine. It uses one of those metal junctions that attaches a short hose tobthe water pump, lower radiator hose, and hose to the heater core. I will be replacing the radiator, radiator cap, all hoses, and putting in a 180 (or 185deg) thermostat. All the parts are coming from Vicky Brit. Unfortunately, I found out the hard way that the yellow so-called universal coolant doesn't work well with brass and copper radiators, which is why I'm doing this work. My engine has a coolant drain plug near the oil gauge takeoff near the back of the engine. However, I have never been able to get anything to drain out of it. I'm willing to have another go at it, but not expecting much. So, how do I get all the old coolant out of the engine since the coolant drain plug isn't functional, and since there will likely be water left inside the block, how do I properly dilute the green coolant?Thank you,-WilliamSent from my LG Mobile
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    <div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div dir="auto">Hello everyone,</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">The car I will be working on is a 1974 B with an 18GK engine. It uses one of those metal junctions that attaches a short hose tobthe water pump, lower radiator hose, and hose to the heater core.&nbsp;</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">I will be replacing the radiator, radiator cap, all hoses, and putting in a 180 (or 185deg) thermostat. All the parts are coming from Vicky Brit.&nbsp;</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Unfortunately, I found out the hard way that the yellow so-called universal coolant doesn't work well with brass and copper radiators, which is why I'm doing this work.&nbsp;</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">My engine has a coolant drain plug near the oil gauge takeoff near the back of the engine. However, I have never been able to get anything to drain out of it. I'm willing to have another go at it, but not expecting much.&nbsp;</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">So, how do I get all the old coolant out of the engine since the coolant drain plug isn't functional, and since there will likely be water left inside the block, how do I properly dilute the green coolant?</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Thank you,</div><div dir="auto">-William</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div id="LGEmailSignatureBox" dir="auto"><div dir="auto" font-size:9pt;"=""><i>Sent from my LG Mobile</i></div></div></div>

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From: wkilleffer--- via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 09 May 2019 09:44:48 -0400

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Yeah, I went out to the garage last night and tried, yet again, to get a piece of coathanger wire up into that passage without avail. I may have a more flexible piece of wire to try this evening. It may nit be the end of the world, but I like for things to work if they will. Had I known this would he an issue when I had the head off about five years ago, I would have tried to remedy it then. Could I suck the coolant out with a shop vac?Sent from my LG Mobile------ Original message------From: PaulHunt73Date: Thu, May 9, 2019 3:44 AMTo: Dan DiBiase;[email-masked];Cc: [email-masked];Subject:Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB
Even if you remove the radiator altogether the block is still 
half full of old coolant, and removing the water pump doesn't get much more 
out.  Remember the original poster was asking how to get the bad coolant 
out.  Having a drain point on the rad is convenient for 
a simple drain and refill, but that's all.
 
You can drain a roadster cleanly without that by shoving a 
piece of card under the hose and past the cross-member over a bowl, slacken the 
hose clip and push it right back, then push a blunt screwdriver up between hose 
and rad port.  It only trickles out, but I leave it to do that while I 
get on with the next phase of the job.
 
I'd be surprised if the later engines didn't have the drain 
plug (replaced the tap a long time before that) below and to the right of the 
oil gauge connection, but try as I might with stiff wire I didn't get any more 
than a rusty dampness below it.  Frequently clogged with casting sand, some 
have had to 'chisel' it out with rods after removing the head.
 
PaulH.

  ----- Original Message ----- 
   
  On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain valve. You have to 
  pull the lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the coolant. It's a 
  mess. Need a really wide pan on the ground underneath, and even then it tends 
  to run along the front crossmember and steering rack and make a 
mess.
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    <div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div dir="auto">Yeah, I went out to the garage last night and tried, yet again, to get a piece of coathanger wire up into that passage without avail. I may have a more flexible piece of wire to try this evening. It may nit be the end of the world, but I like for things to work if they will. Had I known this would he an issue when I had the head off about five years ago, I would have tried to remedy it then.&nbsp;</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Could I suck the coolant out with a shop vac?</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div id="LGEmailSignatureBox" dir="auto"><div dir="auto" font-size:9pt;"=""><i>Sent from my LG Mobile</i></div></div></div><div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div id="LGEmailHeader" dir="auto"><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">------ Original message------</div><div dir="auto"><b>From: </b>PaulHunt73<[email-masked]></[email-masked]></div><div dir="auto"><b>Date: </b>Thu, May 9, 2019 3:44 AM</div><div dir="auto"><b>To: </b>Dan DiBiase<a href="mailto:;[email-masked]">;[email-masked]</a>;</div><div dir="auto"><b>Cc: </b><a href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>;</div><div dir="auto"><b>Subject:</b>Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB</div><div dir="auto"><br></div></div>
<div><font size="2">Even if you remove the radiator altogether the block is still 
half full of old coolant, and removing the water pump doesn't get much more 
out.&nbsp; Remember the original poster was asking how to get the bad coolant 
out.&nbsp; </font><font size="2">Having a drain point on the rad is convenient for 
a simple drain and refill, but that's all.</font></div>
<div><font size="2"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font size="2">You can drain a roadster cleanly without that by shoving a 
piece of card under the hose and past the cross-member over a bowl, slacken the 
hose clip and push it right back, then push a blunt screwdriver up between hose 
and rad port.&nbsp; It only trickles out, but I leave it to&nbsp;do that while I 
get on with the next phase of the job.</font></div>
<div><font size="2"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font size="2">I'd be surprised if the later engines didn't have the drain 
plug (replaced the tap a long time before that) below and to the right of the 
oil gauge connection, but try as I might with stiff wire I didn't get any more 
than a rusty dampness below it.&nbsp; Frequently clogged with casting sand, some 
have had to 'chisel' it out with rods after removing the head.</font></div>
<div><font size="2"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font size="2">PaulH.</font></div>
<blockquote &#10;style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
  <div><font size="2"></font>&nbsp;</div>
  <div dir="ltr">On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain valve. You have to 
  pull the lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the coolant. It's a 
  mess. Need a really wide pan on the ground underneath, and even then it tends 
  to run along the front crossmember and steering rack and make a 
mess.</div></blockquote></div>

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