Subject: Re: [Mgs] 73 mgb

From: i erbs via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2018 15:54:55 -0800

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Simple way is to lift  wheels off ground. Spin gront wheel really fast an
have someone ztep on brake peddle. Repeat eith other wheel.  Or just take
friont wheels off snd have someone hit peddle and see if calipers are
moving the pads.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Fri, Dec 21, 2018, 2:49 PM dave via Mgs <[email-masked] wrote:

> Having trouble stopping.  It does stop, but not like it should.  Like
> maybe only the rears are working.  Is there any way to test that?
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<div dir=3D"auto">Simple way is to lift=C2=A0 wheels off ground. Spin gront=
 wheel really fast an have someone ztep on brake peddle. Repeat eith other =
wheel.=C2=A0 Or just take friont wheels off snd have someone hit peddle and=
 see if calipers are moving the pads.<br><br><div data-smartmail=3D"gmail_s=
ignature">Ira Erbs<br>Portland, OR<br>typos and artifacts are the fault of =
my phone</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Fri,=
 Dec 21, 2018, 2:49 PM dave via Mgs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
t">[email-masked]</a> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote"=
 style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><d=
iv lang=3D"EN-US" link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3D"m_-40348=
41578761208752WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Having trouble stopping.=
=C2=A0 It does stop, but not like it should.=C2=A0 Like maybe only the rear=
s are working.=C2=A0 Is there any way to test that?<u></u><u></u></p></div>=
</div>_______________________________________________<br>
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From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2018 09:06:22 -0000 MOFZFFszF8ONnlZlM7l8qskhhuTN8rf6ftOkK+MahD1/2HpkcPwP9TMDtjN/gD5jB3l57P17KACMgg==

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Is the brake balance warning coming on?  Does it work i.e. have you =
tested it?  Have you checked the fluid levels front and rear in the =
brake master?  If the fronts aren't working at all and only the rears =
then there is the same fault both side which can only be the master, the =
balance switch, or the pipe between them.  If the balance warning test =
switch works but it isn't coming on then it could be the shuttle is =
seized, or the switch is faulty.  But that would be in addition to =
whatever is causing the reduced pressure to the front circuit.

Highly unlikely to be the calipers themselves seized at exactly the same =
time, and if only one is seized then it would pull strongly to the other =
side.

Raising each corner in turn and seeing if the brake pedal (sic) stops =
the wheel is a sort of test, but it's not going to take much effort from =
the caliper to stop you spinning it by hand compared to the pressure =
that is exerted when slowing the car.  They could still be working, but =
at greatly reduced effectiveness i.e. from gross contamination of =
pads/discs, but again that would have to be on both sides.

PaulH.

----- Original Message -----=20

  Having trouble stopping.  It does stop, but not like it should.  Like =
maybe only the rears are working.  Is there any way to test that?

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Is the brake balance warning coming on?&nbsp; Does =
it work=20
i.e. have you tested it?&nbsp; Have you checked the fluid levels front =
and rear=20
in the brake master?&nbsp; If&nbsp;the fronts aren't working at all and =
only the=20
rears then there is the same fault both side which can only be the=20
master,&nbsp;the balance switch, or the pipe between them.&nbsp; <FONT =
size=3D2>If=20
the balance warning test switch works but it isn't coming on then it =
could be=20
the shuttle is seized, or the switch is faulty.&nbsp; But that would be =
in=20
addition to whatever is causing the&nbsp;reduced pressure to the front=20
circuit.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Highly unlikely to be the calipers themselves seized =
at=20
exactly the same time, and if only one is seized then it would pull =
strongly to=20
the other side.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Raising each corner in turn and seeing if the brake =
pedal=20
(sic) stops the wheel is a sort of test, but it's not going to take much =
effort=20
from the caliper to stop you spinning it by hand compared to the =
pressure that=20
is exerted when slowing the car.&nbsp; They could still be working, but =
at=20
greatly reduced effectiveness i.e. from gross contamination of =
pads/discs, but=20
again that would have to be on both sides.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
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  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DWordSection1>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal>Having trouble stopping.&nbsp; It does stop, but =
not like=20
  it should.&nbsp; Like maybe only the rears are working.&nbsp; Is there =
any way=20
  to test that?<o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
  <P></P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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[email-masked]

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From: Stephen West-Fisher via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2018 10:40:02 -0500

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If the master cylinder has been out or if the car has always stopped funny -
check the pedal free play. If there is not enough free play then the fluid
cannot return properly through the master cylinder and owners/mechanics who
don't understand the system will just adjust the rear brakes to make it
"drivable".

Steve 

--

Stephen West-Fisher

N4IK

From: Mgs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of dave via Mgs
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2018 2:55 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [Mgs] 73 mgb

Having trouble stopping.  It does stop, but not like it should.  Like maybe
only the rears are working.  Is there any way to test that?

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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>If the master cylinder =
has been out or if the car has always stopped funny &#8211; check the =
pedal free play. If there is not enough free play then the fluid cannot =
return properly through the master cylinder and owners/mechanics who =
don&#8217;t understand the system will just adjust the rear brakes to =
make it &#8220;drivable&#8221;.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Steve =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:Consolas;color:#1F497D'>--<o:p></o:=
p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:Consolas;color:#1F497D'>Stephen =
West-Fisher<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:Consolas;color:#1F497D'>N4IK<o:p></=
o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
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0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Mgs [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of </b>dave via =
Mgs<br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, December 21, 2018 2:55 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
[email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> [Mgs] 73 =
mgb<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Having =
trouble stopping.&nbsp; It does stop, but not like it should.&nbsp; Like =
maybe only the rears are working.&nbsp; Is there any way to test =
that?<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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[email-masked]

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From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2018 09:05:14 -0000 1lJcgp21hn/Rf8KLWEbHF3zLS+uiewV/4WZt6iHRxWEja7h3EAOJwHSz

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That jams the brakes on, this is apparently lack of braking effort i.e. =
the opposite.

PaulH.

  ...  check the pedal free play. If there is not enough free play then =
the fluid cannot return properly through the master cylinder and =
owners/mechanics who don't understand the system will just adjust the =
rear brakes to make it "drivable".

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>That jams the brakes on, this is apparently lack of =
braking=20
effort i.e. the opposite.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DWordSection1>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN style=3D"COLOR: #1f497d">...&nbsp; check =
the pedal free=20
  play. If there is not enough free play then the fluid cannot return =
properly=20
  through the master cylinder and owners/mechanics who don=92t =
understand the=20
  system will just adjust the rear brakes to make it=20
  =93drivable=94.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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[email-masked]

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From: Steve West-Fisher via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2018 08:07:41 -0500

On 24.12.2018 04:05, PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote:
> That jams the brakes on, this is apparently lack of braking effort
> i.e. the opposite.
> 
> PaulH.
> 

I've seen the rear adjusters backed way out so the rears don't lock up 
in this situation on NA cars. Troubleshooting over email leaves lots to 
the imagination, if we had our hands on the car it would be easier. 
Pretty easy to check the free play though - don't even need to jack it 
up :-)

Steve

-- 
Steve West-Fisher
N4IK

[email-masked]

---

From: Charley Robinson via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2018 10:56:13 -0600

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Quite so.  I had the front brakes on my '69 B fail to release completely 
once miles from home. Manifested as sluggish acceleration away from a 
traffic light.  When I stopped to check both front brakes/discs were 
hot, rear drums were cool.  So I opened the brake line to the front 
brakes at the MC momentarily in order to release the pressure to the 
calipers.  The brakes released and I went on my way.  Never happened 
again but I sent that MC off to be rebuilt soon after that trip.

CR

On 12/24/2018 3:05 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote:
>     ----- Original Message -----
>
>     ...  check the pedal free play. If there is not enough free play
>     then the fluid cannot return properly through the master cylinder
>     and owners/mechanics who don’t understand the system will just
>     adjust the rear brakes to make it “drivable”.
>
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/[email-masked]

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    Quite so.  I had the front brakes on my '69 B fail to release
    completely once miles from home. Manifested as sluggish acceleration
    away from a traffic light.  When I stopped to check both front
    brakes/discs were hot, rear drums were cool.  So I opened the brake
    line to the front brakes at the MC momentarily in order to release
    the pressure to the calipers.  The brakes released and I went on my
    way.  Never happened again but I sent that MC off to be rebuilt soon
    after that trip.<br>
    <br>
    CR<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/24/2018 3:05 AM, PaulHunt73 via
      Mgs wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:2B3F8BD36F0642BBB88E97EED3DC1D2F@paul">
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      <div><font size="2">That jams the brakes on, this is apparently
          lack of braking effort i.e. the opposite.</font></div>
      <div> </div>
      <div><font size="2">PaulH.</font></div>
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        <div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
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          <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="COLOR: #1f497d">...  check
              the pedal free play. If there is not enough free play then
              the fluid cannot return properly through the master
              cylinder and owners/mechanics who don’t understand the
              system will just adjust the rear brakes to make it
              “drivable”.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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