Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder

From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2018 16:54:07 -0000 JeWwlJPCf2Gn422/FHt/OK6fCgpQJQv8sxcQ6KlPBzQSMiHhBUhA7rjPCMKjd0unP7A/KXi2ofXh6g==

I can't answer that question, but I can say that with the earlier 
single-circuit arrangement only two of the bolts are accessed from the 
drivers footwell, the others are accessed from the engine bay.  Having said 
that those two are the most difficult to access being high up on the 
firewall!  The only saving grace for a LHD is that there may be less wiring 
in the way.  Good luck, it was a real struggle getting those out on mine a 
couple of years ago, let alone back in!  Kneeling on the ground and 
reaching in is the only way I could do it

PaulH, aged 71 and 3/4.

----- Original Message ----- 
> On a US spec 1973 left hand drive MGB, is it possible to remove and 
> replace the brake and clutch master cylinders without removing the pedal 
> box?   The Bentley and Haynes books both state this is possible on the 
> older B’s , but not the newer models with the tandem (dual circuit) master 
> brake cylinder.  I’m not looking forward to going up into drivers side 
> footwell to access the pedal box bolts. 

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From: Jack Wheeler via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2018 20:30:07 +0000 (UTC)

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 Mine is a 1971.=C2=A0 I replaced the clutch M/C without removing the pedal=
 box.=C2=A0 However, I would have to say, it would almost have been easier =
to remove the pedal box.=C2=A0 To get to the lower attachment bolt, you hav=
e to go through a hole in the firewall, right behind the master cylinders.=
=C2=A0 It is covered with a rubber "plug", and is not easy to get to.=C2=A0=
 You also have to use a long extension with a swivel on your socket.
Good luck.
Jack Wheeler

    On Saturday, November 17, 2018, 11:28:42 AM EST, John DiFede via Mgs <m=
[email-masked]> wrote: =20
=20
=20
On a US spec 1973 left hand drive MGB, is it possible to remove and replace=
 the brake and clutch master cylinders without removing the pedal box?=C2=
=A0 The Bentley and Haynes books both state this is possible on the older B=
=E2=80=99s , but not the newer models with the tandem (dual circuit) master=
 brake cylinder.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m not looking forward to going up into dri=
vers side footwell to access the pedal box bolts.=C2=A0 I don=E2=80=99t ben=
d or see as well as I used to when I did this job 20 years ago!=C2=A0=20

Thanks=20
John. 1973 MGB
Sent from my iPhone

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/[email-masked]=
om
 =20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp44bb317fyahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px=
;"><div></div>
        <div>Mine is a 1971.&nbsp; I replaced the clutch M/C without removi=
ng the pedal box.&nbsp; However, I would have to say, it would almost have =
been easier to remove the pedal box.&nbsp; To get to the lower attachment b=
olt, you have to go through a hole in the firewall, right behind the master=
 cylinders.&nbsp; It is covered with a rubber "plug", and is not easy to ge=
t to.&nbsp; You also have to use a long extension with a swivel on your soc=
ket.</div><div><br></div><div>Good luck.</div><div><br></div><div>Jack Whee=
ler<br></div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydp997280b6yahoo_quoted_3281723503" class=3D"ydp99=
7280b6yahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Saturday, November 17, 2018, 11:28:42 AM EST, John D=
iFede via Mgs &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">On a US sp=
ec 1973 left hand drive MGB, is it possible to remove and replace the brake=
 and clutch master cylinders without removing the pedal box?&nbsp;  The Ben=
tley and Haynes books both state this is possible on the older B=E2=80=99s =
, but not the newer models with the tandem (dual circuit) master brake cyli=
nder.&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m not looking forward to going up into drivers side f=
ootwell to access the pedal box bolts.&nbsp; I don=E2=80=99t bend or see as=
 well as I used to when I did this job 20 years ago!&nbsp; <br></div><div d=
ir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Joh=
n. 1973 MGB<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone<br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr">_______________________________________________<br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" r=
el=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr">Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"nofollo=
w" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr">Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><=
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From: Zach Dorsch via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2018 21:14:01 +0000 (UTC)

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Yes it can be done, but either way it=E2=80=99s a bear to get the bolts and=
 hard lines reinstalled. I ended up epoxying the nuts to the master cylinde=
r to avoid having to fit a wrench in there again.

On Saturday, November 17, 2018, 10:45 AM, John DiFede via Mgs <[email-masked]=
am.net> wrote:

Thanks=20
John. 1973 MGB
Sent from my iPhone

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/[email-masked]=
m

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if gte mso 9]><xml><o:OfficeDocumentSettings><o:AllowPNG/><o:PixelsPerInch>=
96</o:PixelsPerInch></o:OfficeDocumentSettings></xml><![endif]--></head><bo=
dy>
Yes it can be done, but either way it=E2=80=99s a bear to get the bolts and=
 hard lines reinstalled. I ended up epoxying the nuts to the master cylinde=
r to avoid having to fit a wrench in there again.<br><br><br><br><p class=
=3D"yahoo-quoted-begin" style=3D"font-size: 15px; color: #715FFA; padding-t=
op: 15px; margin-top: 0">On Saturday, November 17, 2018, 10:45 AM, John DiF=
ede via Mgs &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</p><blockquote class=3D"iosym=
ail"><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">On a US spec 1973 left han=
d drive MGB, is it possible to remove and replace the brake and clutch mast=
er cylinders without removing the pedal box?&nbsp;  The Bentley and Haynes =
books both state this is possible on the older B=E2=80=99s , but not the ne=
wer models with the tandem (dual circuit) master brake cylinder.&nbsp; I=E2=
=80=99m not looking forward to going up into drivers side footwell to acces=
s the pedal box bolts.&nbsp; I don=E2=80=99t bend or see as well as I used =
to when I did this job 20 years ago!&nbsp; <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><=
/div><div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">John. 1973 MGB<br><=
/div><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">_______=
________________________________________<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></di=
v><div dir=3D"ltr"><a ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" href=3D"mailto:=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Donate=
: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.=
team.net/donate.html</a><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Suggested annual donatio=
n&nbsp; $12.75<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Archive=
: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs" target=3D"_blank">http://ww=
w.team.net/pipermail/mgs</a><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=
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[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/opti=
ons/mgs/[email-masked]</a><br></div><blockquote></blockquote></block=
quote>
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From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2018 09:22:20 -0000 m3DJ/KfCig2ZBxNDmK6IjXRQLsDWXZiOGiigRWRmaNpwu1uMF0+QKu9a

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To be fair, and having done it both ways with both masters at various =
times and for a repaint, it's MUCH easier to get at the banjo bolts =
through the large plug in the firewall than it is to remove and refit =
those two bolts which are higher up behind the dash.

As said getting the lower nuts on the master cylinder is a fiddle, but =
again nowhere near as bad as those two bolts.  I wedged the nuts into an =
open-ended spanner and stuck the washer to them with grease.

And on the subject, anyone know the purpose of the thin shim between the =
single-circuit (not dual?) brake master and the pedal box?  It surely =
can't be to do with alignment.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  ....  To get to the lower attachment bolt, you have to go through a =
hole in the firewall, right behind the master cylinders.  It is covered =
with a rubber "plug", and is not easy to get to...
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>To be fair, and having done it&nbsp;both ways with =
both=20
masters at various times and for a repaint, it's MUCH easier to get at =
the banjo=20
bolts through the large plug in the firewall than it is to remove and =
refit=20
those two bolts which are higher up behind the dash.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>As said getting the lower nuts on the master =
cylinder is a=20
fiddle, but again nowhere near as bad as those two bolts.&nbsp;&nbsp;I =
wedged=20
the nuts into an open-ended spanner and stuck the washer to them with=20
grease.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>And on the subject, anyone know the purpose of the =
thin shim=20
between the&nbsp;single-circuit (not dual?)&nbsp;brake&nbsp;master and =
the pedal=20
box?&nbsp; It surely can't be to do with alignment.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV>....&nbsp; To get to the lower attachment bolt, you have to go =
through a=20
  hole in the firewall, right behind the master cylinders.&nbsp; It is =
covered=20
  with a rubber "plug", and is not easy to get=20
to...</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: Hans Duinhoven via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2018 20:32:29 +0100

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Just a thought about the shim:

It might be for preventing =E2=80=9Crusting solid tight=E2=80=9D. 

Brake fluid can cause serious scalding, i.o.w. it might cause serious corro=
sion.

Having a =E2=80=9Cshim=E2=80=9D might prevent this.

For Paul:

The single cylinder brake mc I think is easier to swap w/o removing the ped=
al box, than the US spec tandem cylinder, which is longer.

Cheers

Hans

Van: Mgs [mailto:[email-masked]] Namens PaulHunt73 via Mgs
Verzonden: zondag 18 november 2018 10:22
CC: [email-masked]
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder

To be fair, and having done it both ways with both masters at various times=
 and for a repaint, it's MUCH easier to get at the banjo bolts through the =
large plug in the firewall than it is to remove and refit those two bolts w=
hich are higher up behind the dash.

As said getting the lower nuts on the master cylinder is a fiddle, but agai=
n nowhere near as bad as those two bolts.  I wedged the nuts into an open-e=
nded spanner and stuck the washer to them with grease.

And on the subject, anyone know the purpose of the thin shim between the si=
ngle-circuit (not dual?) brake master and the pedal box?  It surely can't b=
e to do with alignment.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

=2E...  To get to the lower attachment bolt, you have to go through a hole =
in the firewall, right behind the master cylinders.  It is covered with a r=
ubber "plug", and is not easy to get to...

---
Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware.=

https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=3Dwhite lang=3DNL li=
nk=3Dblue vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><sp=
an lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif=
";color:#1F497D'>Just a thought about the shim:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p cla=
ss=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Ca=
libri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>It might be for preventing =E2=80=9Crust=
ing solid tight=E2=80=9D. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";c=
olor:#1F497D'>Brake fluid can cause serious scalding, i.o.w. it might cause=
 serious corrosion.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3D=
EN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1=
F497D'>Having a =E2=80=9Cshim=E2=80=9D might prevent this.<o:p></o:p></span=
></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font=
-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-famil=
y:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>For Paul:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p c=
lass=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"=
Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>The single cylinder brake mc I think i=
s easier to swap w/o removing the pedal box, than the US spec tandem cylind=
er, which is longer.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=
=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color=
:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-=
US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F49=
7D'>Cheers<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US sty=
le=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Ha=
ns<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'fo=
nt-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp=
;</o:p></span></p><div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1=
=2E0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span style=3D'fo=
nt-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>Van:</span></b><span styl=
e=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Mgs [mailto:mgs-b=
[email-masked]] <b>Namens </b>PaulHunt73 via Mgs<br><b>Verzonden:</b=
> zondag 18 november 2018 10:22<br><b>CC:</b> [email-masked]<br><b>Onde=
rwerp:</b> Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></=
div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><sp=
an style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>To be fair, and having done it&nbsp;both ways=
 with both masters at various times and for a repaint, it's MUCH easier to =
get at the banjo bolts through the large plug in the firewall than it is to=
 remove and refit those two bolts which are higher up behind the dash.</spa=
n><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div=
><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>As said getting=
 the lower nuts on the master cylinder is a fiddle, but again nowhere near =
as bad as those two bolts.&nbsp;&nbsp;I wedged the nuts into an open-ended =
spanner and stuck the washer to them with grease.</span><o:p></o:p></p></di=
v><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoN=
ormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>And on the subject, anyone know the =
purpose of the thin shim between the&nbsp;single-circuit (not dual?)&nbsp;b=
rake&nbsp;master and the pedal box?&nbsp; It surely can't be to do with ali=
gnment.</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o=
:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Pau=
lH.</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote style=3D'border:none;border-left=
:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm 4.0pt;margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:=
5.0pt;margin-right:0cm;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span=
 style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>----- Original=
 Message ----- <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>....&n=
bsp; To get to the lower attachment bolt, you have to go through a hole in =
the firewall, right behind the master cylinders.&nbsp; It is covered with a=
 rubber &quot;plug&quot;, and is not easy to get to...<o:p></o:p></p></div>=
</blockquote></div><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
<br /><br />
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[email-masked]

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---

From: i erbs via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2018 17:28:21 -0800

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Shims of different thicknesses have been used to adjust pushrod depth and
length.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Mon, Nov 19, 2018, 11:40 AM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs <[email-masked]
wrote:

> Brake fluid can cause serious scalding, i.o.w. it might cause serious
> corrosion.
>
> The single cylinder brake mc I think is easier to swap w/o removing the
> pedal box, than the US spec tandem cylinder, which is longer.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Hans
>
>
>
> *Van:* Mgs [mailto:[email-masked]] *Namens *PaulHunt73 via Mg=
s
> *Verzonden:* zondag 18 november 2018 10:22
> *CC:* [email-masked]
> *Onderwerp:* Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder
>
>
>
> To be fair, and having done it both ways with both masters at various
> times and for a repaint, it's MUCH easier to get at the banjo bolts throu=
gh
> the large plug in the firewall than it is to remove and refit those two
> bolts which are higher up behind the dash.
>
>
>
> As said getting the lower nuts on the master cylinder is a fiddle, but
> again nowhere near as bad as those two bolts.  I wedged the nuts into an
> And on the subject, anyone know the purpose of the thin shim between
> the single-circuit (not dual?) brake master and the pedal box?  It surely
> ....  To get to the lower attachment bolt, you have to go through a hole
> in the firewall, right behind the master cylinders.  It is covered with a
> rubber "plug", and is not easy to get to...
>
>
>
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<div dir=3D"auto">Shims of different thicknesses have been used to adjust p=
ushrod depth and length.<div dir=3D"auto"><br><br><div data-smartmail=3D"gm=
ail_signature" dir=3D"auto">Ira Erbs<br>Portland, OR<br>typos and artifacts=
 are the fault of my phone</div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">=
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Nov 19, 2018, 11:40 AM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs &lt;=
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> wrote:<br></di=
v><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:=
1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div bgcolor=3D"white" lang=3D"NL" link=3D=
"blue" vlink=3D"purple"><div class=3D"m_4705006631985592988WordSection1"><p=
 class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-fa=
mily:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Just a thoug=
ht about the shim:<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lan=
g=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot=
;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">It might be for preventing =E2=80=9Crustin=
g solid tight=E2=80=9D. <u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><sp=
an lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;=
,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Brake fluid can cause serious scaldi=
ng, i.o.w. it might cause serious corrosion.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p cla=
ss=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family=
:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Having a =E2=80=
=9Cshim=E2=80=9D might prevent this.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;C=
alibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></sp=
an></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0p=
t;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">For=
 Paul:<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" =
style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&=
quot;;color:#1f497d">The single cylinder brake mc I think is easier to swap=
 w/o removing the pedal box, than the US spec tandem cylinder, which is lon=
ger.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&qu=
ot;;color:#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><s=
pan lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot=
;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Cheers<u></u><u></u></span></p><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-fami=
ly:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Hans<u></u><u>=
</u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-si=
ze:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f4=
97d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><div><div style=3D"border:none;border-t=
op:solid #b5c4df 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b=
><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-=
serif&quot;">Van:</span></b><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&qu=
ot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;"> Mgs [mailto:<a href=3D"mailto:mgs-=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">mgs-bounces@au=
tox.team.net</a>] <b>Namens </b>PaulHunt73 via Mgs<br><b>Verzonden:</b> zon=
dag 18 november 2018 10:22<br><b>CC:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
et" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a><br><b>Onder=
werp:</b> Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder<u></u><u></u></span></p></div>=
</div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><div><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt">To be fair, and having done it=C2=A0=
both ways with both masters at various times and for a repaint, it&#39;s MU=
CH easier to get at the banjo bolts through the large plug in the firewall =
than it is to remove and refit those two bolts which are higher up behind t=
he dash.</span><u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0<u=
></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:=
10.0pt">As said getting the lower nuts on the master cylinder is a fiddle, =
but again nowhere near as bad as those two bolts.=C2=A0=C2=A0I wedged the n=
uts into an open-ended spanner and stuck the washer to them with grease.</s=
pan><u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0<u></u><u></u=
></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt">And=
 on the subject, anyone know the purpose of the thin shim between the=C2=A0=
single-circuit (not dual?)=C2=A0brake=C2=A0master and the pedal box?=C2=A0 =
It surely can&#39;t be to do with alignment.</span><u></u><u></u></p></div>=
<div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt">PaulH.</span><u></u><u></u></p>=
</div><blockquote style=3D"border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;paddin=
g:0cm 0cm 0cm 4.0pt;margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0cm;ma=
rgin-bottom:5.0pt"><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.=
0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;">----- Original Me=
ssage ----- <u></u><u></u></span></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">....=
=C2=A0 To get to the lower attachment bolt, you have to go through a hole i=
n the firewall, right behind the master cylinders.=C2=A0 It is covered with=
 a rubber &quot;plug&quot;, and is not easy to get to...<u></u><u></u></p><=
/div></blockquote></div><div id=3D"m_4705006631985592988DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-=
A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
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---

From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2018 08:26:23 -0000 mJIl54jYeG4Sq0DddpRi6QLvT4nHKJ3r+sepsWWzlzEl+o/kMQCVSjepeskwH0/QtqngXXNxr7XmV+Mc2GJVjBG2uuuO8ds5dM7nM2EwMSFSRlEWoE4NaLss

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This is nothing to do with the pushrod, it's between the master and the =
pedal box.  As the pushrod should always come back to the circlip, and =
the pedal is free to come back even further when not attached to the =
pushrod, all this shim does is vary the position of the brake pedal =
footpad fractionally.

It's also only on the brake master according to the Parts Catalogue, and =
only on the single-circuit at that, so I can't see it being anything to =
do with fluid leaks.

PaulH.

  Shims of different thicknesses have been used to adjust pushrod depth =
and length.

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=EF=BB=BF<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This is nothing to do with the pushrod, =
it's&nbsp;between the=20
master and the pedal box.&nbsp; As the pushrod should always come back =
to the=20
circlip, and the pedal is free to come back even further when not =
attached to=20
the pushrod, all this shim does is vary the position of the brake pedal =
footpad=20
fractionally.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>It's also only on the brake master according to the =
Parts=20
Catalogue, and only on the single-circuit at that, so I can't see it =
being=20
anything to do with fluid leaks.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
dir=3Dltr>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dauto>Shims of different thicknesses have been used to =
adjust pushrod=20
  depth and length.
  <DIV dir=3Dauto><FONT =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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