From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 3 17:51:11 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B382625883E0 for ; Tue, 3 May 2016 17:51:11 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from homiemail-a85.g.dreamhost.com (sub4.mail.dreamhost.com [69.163.253.135]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E50D82588AA0 for ; Tue, 3 May 2016 13:11:14 -0600 (MDT) Received: from homiemail-a85.g.dreamhost.com (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by homiemail-a85.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id DD011BBA0B8 for ; Tue, 3 May 2016 12:11:07 -0700 (PDT) :date:from:mime-version:to:subject:content-type; s=stclegal.com; bh=g54hGW2YzADqFXrlsCvl9SnAxhw=; b=cJ8rZUFtNNttLXzHdrW+kXZgM02F PYLaq3v0MI+LnH02Wg1JmV3upb+xA7MKIBwKd1pJeJfkGs9hz3xRJgIxq781K+RX E3UJznZp6S0oARiZUk2+i6/nAW0yuCV6cGu1bfRj3wyybou8jlvRhT2Yvf3mCjgX ciiXt3LP7q6fXRc= Received: from [192.168.1.69] (66-128-101-178.static.stls.mo.charter.com [66.128.101.178]) (using TLSv1 with cipher DHE-RSA-AES256-SHA (256/256 bits)) (No client certificate requested) (Authenticated sender: guinness@stclegal.com) by homiemail-a85.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTPSA id 1F3A1BBA0B6 for ; Tue, 3 May 2016 12:11:04 -0700 (PDT) Date: Tue, 03 May 2016 14:10:46 -0500 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.0.1 To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] No Go Mystery From: "Robert J. Guinness via Mgs" Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --===============2019958381268955672== boundary="------------070404080006040509070803" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------070404080006040509070803 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit While on a long drive in the hinterlands of KY in my 1960 MGA with a 3-main 1800 MGB engine, I nearly ran out of gas after about 170 miles that day. I found a gas station and refueled (the gas had alcohol and I usually run non-alcohol gas). About 30 miles later, the car started to lose power and then quit. Figured it was a clogged fuel line, but fuel was pumping out of the fuel line at the rear carb and there was gas in both float bowls. Cleaned out both float bowls. Had spark from the coil and to all plugs. Had just replaced spark plugs and gapped them to spec two days previously. Regapped points (1 year old 25D distributor). Nothing. Sprayed starting fluid in the carbs. Nothing. Locals towed me back to town. Locals played with wires under the bonnet at the coil as I politely batted them away. As a last ditch effort, I advanced the timing and it caught at high revs! Drove a few miles, but lost power as I accelerated and stopped. Stripped and reattached coil wire to harness. Started, drove a couple of miles, faded, and stopped. Towed it home. At home, it started reluctantly. It drove for a couple of miles and it faded and quit. Gas in rear carb float bowl but no gas at the front carb float bowl. Blew air from fuel pump back to gas tank with audible air flow at the gas tank. Replaced the float bowl needle and seat at the front carb. Fuel pumping nicely at both front and rear carbs. Have spark from the coil and to all plugs. Static timed. Nothing, doesn't even try to catch. I do not have a fuel filter other than stock sleeve in the fuel pump. No odd sounds. I am stupefied ( except for the possibility of clogged jets, but if so why wouldn't it start with starter fluid). If it is the coil or condensor, why am I getting spark? Why would advancing the timing get it to go at such high revs that one time, but normal timing gives you nothing at all, not even a spit? Do I have a cam flat spot problem? How have I angered the British engineering gods? Any hints or diagnostic suggestions? I have also posted to the MG experience folks -- e-mail signature Robert Guinness --------------070404080006040509070803 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit While on a long drive in the hinterlands of KY in my 1960 MGA with a 3-main 1800 MGB engine, I nearly ran out of gas after about 170 miles that day.  I found a gas station and refueled (the gas had alcohol and I usually run non-alcohol gas).  About 30 miles later, the car started to lose power and then quit. Figured it was a clogged fuel line, but fuel was pumping out of the fuel line at the rear carb and there was gas in both float bowls. Cleaned out both float bowls.  Had spark from the coil and to all plugs.  Had just replaced spark plugs and gapped them to spec two days previously. Regapped points (1 year old 25D distributor). Nothing.  Sprayed starting fluid in the carbs.  Nothing. Locals towed me back to town. Locals played with wires under the bonnet at the coil as I politely batted them away.  As a last ditch effort, I advanced the timing and it caught at high revs!  Drove a few miles, but lost power as I accelerated and stopped.  Stripped and reattached coil wire to harness.  Started, drove a couple of miles, faded, and stopped. Towed it home.  At home, it started reluctantly.  It drove for a couple of miles and it faded and quit. Gas  in rear carb float bowl but no gas at the front carb float bowl. Blew air from fuel pump back to gas tank with audible air flow at the gas tank.  Replaced the float bowl needle and seat at the front carb.  Fuel pumping nicely at both front and rear carbs.  Have spark from the coil and to all plugs. Static timed.  Nothing, doesn't even try to catch. I do not have a fuel filter other than stock sleeve in the fuel pump. No odd sounds. I am stupefied ( except for the possibility of clogged jets, but if so why wouldn’t it start with starter fluid).  If it is the coil or condensor, why am I getting spark?  Why would advancing the timing get it to go at such high revs that one time, but normal timing gives you nothing at all, not even a spit? Do I have a cam flat spot problem? How have I angered the British engineering gods?  Any hints or diagnostic suggestions?  I have also posted to the MG experience folks
--
e-mail signature

Robert Guinness

--------------070404080006040509070803-- --===============2019958381268955672== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============2019958381268955672==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 3 18:05:00 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id DEB3325863DA for ; Tue, 3 May 2016 18:05:00 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from homiemail-a36.g.dreamhost.com (sub4.mail.dreamhost.com [69.163.253.135]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id EB3882588EAB for ; Tue, 3 May 2016 13:11:52 -0600 (MDT) Received: from homiemail-a36.g.dreamhost.com (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by homiemail-a36.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 5A950778094 for ; Tue, 3 May 2016 12:11:43 -0700 (PDT) :date:from:mime-version:to:subject:content-type; s=stclegal.com; bh=uTXSrzPwEiE1Zyhp9EEzNMDw6JI=; b=1TTs6fPDW+SkD5Ykh83MZfyUrPJg UCZ3fYmUGVAK5+szqhiOGSG8rihYKeQrsQraVze/SD6gNycvh+4euAdsl4SP9MpH feNcwCOmek9Gytie9OCnyt8u2JEiJT48oJtVIxPolJpGnj6cDfqRELImbWUsA/b/ O7xZaVHVk571g1c= Received: from [192.168.1.69] (66-128-101-178.static.stls.mo.charter.com [66.128.101.178]) (using TLSv1 with cipher DHE-RSA-AES256-SHA (256/256 bits)) (No client certificate requested) (Authenticated sender: guinness@stclegal.com) by homiemail-a36.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTPSA id 11FB5778057 for ; Tue, 3 May 2016 12:10:13 -0700 (PDT) Date: Tue, 03 May 2016 14:09:58 -0500 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.0.1 To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] No Go Mystery From: "Robert J. Guinness via Mgs" Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --===============8636190872660515737== boundary="------------040104020608030700020100" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------040104020608030700020100 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit While on a long drive in the hinterlands of KY in my 1960 MGA with a 3-main 1800 MGB engine, I nearly ran out of gas after about 170 miles that day. I found a gas station and refueled (the gas had alcohol and I usually run non-alcohol gas). About 30 miles later, the car started to lose power and then quit. Figured it was a clogged fuel line, but fuel was pumping out of the fuel line at the rear carb and there was gas in both float bowls. Cleaned out both float bowls. Had spark from the coil and to all plugs. Had just replaced spark plugs and gapped them to spec two days previously. Regapped points (1 year old 25D distributor). Nothing. Sprayed starting fluid in the carbs. Nothing. Locals towed me back to town. Locals played with wires under the bonnet at the coil as I politely batted them away. As a last ditch effort, I advanced the timing and it caught at high revs! Drove a few miles, but lost power as I accelerated and stopped. Stripped and reattached coil wire to harness. Started, drove a couple of miles, faded, and stopped. Towed it home. At home, it started reluctantly. It drove for a couple of miles and it faded and quit. Gas in rear carb float bowl but no gas at the front carb float bowl. Blew air from fuel pump back to gas tank with audible air flow at the gas tank. Replaced the float bowl needle and seat at the front carb. Fuel pumping nicely at both front and rear carbs. Have spark from the coil and to all plugs. Static timed. Nothing, doesn't even try to catch. I do not have a fuel filter other than stock sleeve in the fuel pump. No odd sounds. I am stupefied ( except for the possibility of clogged jets, but if so why wouldn't it start with starter fluid). If it is the coil or condensor, why am I getting spark? Why would advancing the timing get it to go at such high revs that one time, but normal timing gives you nothing at all, not even a spit? Do I have a cam flat spot problem? How have I angered the British engineering gods? Any hints or diagnostic suggestions? -- e-mail signature Robert Guinness --------------040104020608030700020100 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit While on a long drive in the hinterlands of KY in my 1960 MGA with a 3-main 1800 MGB engine, I nearly ran out of gas after about 170 miles that day.  I found a gas station and refueled (the gas had alcohol and I usually run non-alcohol gas).  About 30 miles later, the car started to lose power and then quit. Figured it was a clogged fuel line, but fuel was pumping out of the fuel line at the rear carb and there was gas in both float bowls. Cleaned out both float bowls.  Had spark from the coil and to all plugs.  Had just replaced spark plugs and gapped them to spec two days previously. Regapped points (1 year old 25D distributor). Nothing.  Sprayed starting fluid in the carbs.  Nothing. Locals towed me back to town. Locals played with wires under the bonnet at the coil as I politely batted them away.  As a last ditch effort, I advanced the timing and it caught at high revs!  Drove a few miles, but lost power as I accelerated and stopped.  Stripped and reattached coil wire to harness.  Started, drove a couple of miles, faded, and stopped. Towed it home.  At home, it started reluctantly.  It drove for a couple of miles and it faded and quit. Gas  in rear carb float bowl but no gas at the front carb float bowl. Blew air from fuel pump back to gas tank with audible air flow at the gas tank.  Replaced the float bowl needle and seat at the front carb.  Fuel pumping nicely at both front and rear carbs.  Have spark from the coil and to all plugs. Static timed.  Nothing, doesn't even try to catch. I do not have a fuel filter other than stock sleeve in the fuel pump. No odd sounds. I am stupefied ( except for the possibility of clogged jets, but if so why wouldn’t it start with starter fluid).  If it is the coil or condensor, why am I getting spark?  Why would advancing the timing get it to go at such high revs that one time, but normal timing gives you nothing at all, not even a spit? Do I have a cam flat spot problem? How have I angered the British engineering gods?  Any hints or diagnostic suggestions?
--
e-mail signature

Robert Guinness

--------------040104020608030700020100-- --===============8636190872660515737== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============8636190872660515737==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 4 06:35:35 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6D2292587DBA for ; Wed, 4 May 2016 06:35:35 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from resqmta-ch2-01v.sys.comcast.net (resqmta-ch2-01v.sys.comcast.net [69.252.207.33]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 9B31F2587D4C for ; Wed, 4 May 2016 06:25:24 -0600 (MDT) Received: from resomta-ch2-12v.sys.comcast.net ([69.252.207.108]) by comcast with SMTP id xvqnaOgOjfr8TxvroaZNK7; Wed, 04 May 2016 12:25:24 +0000 s=q20140121; t=1462364724; bh=GQnBt1R6lSdJfxbyyQt+mlWhT4EFRdleFyQJXL1GZfQ=; h=Received:Received:MIME-Version:To:From:Subject:Date:Content-Type; b=wIKUNXCy+bSSLvk4AJhmRnieJ4v7TcS2wFwdF0SH4gzHGhX3pyaHRodC0kwktmj03 p7K3VGZGZioTpQqHnYvv4q5nWIRUHmkZqWsvzbxcC7sENcvC2r/Q1/zKioHmjo5l7I 8TMXh55HHeRH3zPudzXeYkEmIEvNZRoekYrnUvtpIZ2kIhEi7trBB2jyfbBodL/seE 7tLRE3M3kDHoCCcNZ1Hj3M9VQVg4huvQe5a7Q/CgW42PvMbGM/yIV+fHytIqZyUJBU FdD4Oi5dz2ueBRUkEAEpxTOTjLVfs5bmu0eg0x4LY3ll+giZCcRCUN/3cOTkW0o9qh S/vokeKG+9yZQ== Received: from [IPv6:::ffff:192.168.1.179] ([68.61.187.195]) by resomta-ch2-12v.sys.comcast.net with comcast id qCRP1s0084DNuTG01CRP1F; Wed, 04 May 2016 12:25:24 +0000 To: "Robert J. Guinness via Mgs" Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 08:25:23 -0400 Importance: normal References: <5728F7B6.2080205@stclegal.com> Subject: Re: [Mgs] No Go Mystery From: Gordie Bird via Mgs Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net --===============1891779131857635793== boundary="_ADFC5233-CAA4-4BF6-96ED-4920B828F298_" --_ADFC5233-CAA4-4BF6-96ED-4920B828F298_ Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I=E2=80=99ve seen the coil fail intermittently, seems fine when cold, but f= ails when warm. You have coil mounted on inner fender or bracket (like 160= 0), right? Unlikely all plug wires would fail at same time, but, if the c= oil wire was bad=E2=80=A6 Have you checked spark once coil heats up? Weak coil possibly producing a = weak or no spark when hot? Sudden failure as you describe; to me would indicate something in the elect= rics. I=E2=80=99d throw my spare coil, then condenser, then coil wire at it and s= ee what happens. Good luck! Gordie =E2=80=9962 MGA From: Robert J. Guinness via Mgs Sent: Tuesday, May 3, 2016 8:05 PM To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] No Go Mystery While on a long drive in the hinterlands of KY in my 1960 MGA with a 3-main= 1800 MGB engine, I nearly ran out of gas after about 170 miles that day.= =C2=A0 I found a gas station and refueled (the gas had alcohol and I usuall= y run non-alcohol gas).=C2=A0 About 30 miles later, the car started to lose= power and then quit. Figured it was a clogged fuel line, but fuel was pump= ing out of the fuel line at the rear carb and there was gas in both float b= owls. Cleaned out both float bowls.=C2=A0 Had spark from the coil and to al= l plugs.=C2=A0 Had just replaced spark plugs and gapped them to spec two da= ys previously. Regapped points (1 year old 25D distributor). Nothing.=C2=A0= Sprayed starting fluid in the carbs.=C2=A0 Nothing. Locals towed me back t= o town. Locals played with wires under the bonnet at the coil as I politely= batted them away.=C2=A0 As a last ditch effort, I advanced the timing and = it caught at high revs!=C2=A0 Drove a few miles, but lost power as I accele= rated and stopped.=C2=A0 Stripped and reattached coil wire to harness.=C2= =A0 Started, drove a couple of miles, faded, and stopped. Towed it home.=C2= =A0 At home, it started reluctantly.=C2=A0 It drove for a couple of miles a= nd it faded and quit. Gas=C2=A0 in rear carb float bowl but no gas at the f= ront carb float bowl. Blew air from fuel pump back to gas tank with audible= air flow at the gas tank.=C2=A0 Replaced the float bowl needle and seat at= the front carb.=C2=A0 Fuel pumping nicely at both front and rear carbs.=C2= =A0 Have spark from the coil and to all plugs. Static timed.=C2=A0 Nothing,= doesn't even try to catch. I do not have a fuel filter other than stock sl= eeve in the fuel pump. No odd sounds. I am stupefied ( except for the possi= bility of clogged jets, but if so why wouldn=E2=80=99t it start with starte= r fluid).=C2=A0 If it is the coil or condensor, why am I getting spark?=C2= =A0 Why would advancing the timing get it to go at such high revs that one = time, but normal timing gives you nothing at all, not even a spit? Do I hav= e a cam flat spot problem? How have I angered the British engineering gods?= =C2=A0 Any hints or diagnostic suggestions?=C2=A0 I have also posted to the= MG experience folks --=20 Robert Guinness --_ADFC5233-CAA4-4BF6-96ED-4920B828F298_ Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I=E2=80=99ve seen the coil fail inte= rmittently, seems fine when cold, but fails when warm.=C2=A0 You have coil = mounted on inner fender or bracket (like 1600), right?=C2=A0 Unlikely all p= lug wires would fail at same time, but, =C2=A0if the coil wire was bad=E2= =80=A6

Have you checked spark once coil heats up?= =C2=A0 Weak coil possibly producing a weak or no spark when hot?

Sudden failure as you describe; to me would indicate somethin= g in the electrics.

I=E2=80=99d throw my spare coil= , then condenser, then coil wire at it and see what happens.

 

Good luck!

 

Gordie

=E2=80=9962 MGA

 =

 

&nb= sp;

From: Robert J. Guinness via Mgs
Sent: Tuesday, May 3,= 2016 8:05 PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] No Go Mystery

&nbs= p;

While on a long drive in the hinterlands = of KY in my 1960 MGA with a 3-main 1800 MGB engine, I nearly ran out of gas= after about 170 miles that day.  I found a gas station and refueled (= the gas had alcohol and I usually run non-alcohol gas).  About 30 mile= s later, the car started to lose power and then quit. Figured it was a clog= ged fuel line, but fuel was pumping out of the fuel line at the rear carb a= nd there was gas in both float bowls. Cleaned out both float bowls.  H= ad spark from the coil and to all plugs.  Had just replaced spark plug= s and gapped them to spec two days previously. Regapped points (1 year old = 25D distributor). Nothing.  Sprayed starting fluid in the carbs. = Nothing. Locals towed me back to town. Locals played with wires under the = bonnet at the coil as I politely batted them away.  As a last ditch ef= fort, I advanced the timing and it caught at high revs!  Drove a few m= iles, but lost power as I accelerated and stopped.  Stripped and reatt= ached coil wire to harness.  Started, drove a couple of miles, faded, = and stopped. Towed it home.  At home, it started reluctantly.  It= drove for a couple of miles and it faded and quit. Gas  in rear carb = float bowl but no gas at the front carb float bowl. Blew air from fuel pump= back to gas tank with audible air flow at the gas tank.  Replaced the= float bowl needle and seat at the front carb.  Fuel pumping nicely at= both front and rear carbs.  Have spark from the coil and to all plugs= . Static timed.  Nothing, doesn't even try to catch. I do not have a f= uel filter other than stock sleeve in the fuel pump. No odd sounds. I am st= upefied ( except for the possibility of clogged jets, but if so why wouldn= =E2=80=99t it start with starter fluid).  If it is the coil or condens= or, why am I getting spark?  Why would advancing the timing get it to = go at such high revs that one time, but normal timing gives you nothing at = all, not even a spit? Do I have a cam flat spot problem? How have I angered= the British engineering gods?  Any hints or diagnostic suggestions?&n= bsp; I have also posted to the MG experience folks

--

Robert Guinness

<= span style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;color:black'> <= /o:p>

= --_ADFC5233-CAA4-4BF6-96ED-4920B828F298_-- --===============1891779131857635793== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============1891779131857635793==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 4 06:55:54 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 576D42588073 for ; Wed, 4 May 2016 06:55:54 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from mail-yw0-f170.google.com (mail-yw0-f170.google.com [209.85.161.170]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 7F71425891AC for ; Wed, 4 May 2016 06:42:22 -0600 (MDT) Received: by mail-yw0-f170.google.com with SMTP id o66so86733151ywc.3 for ; Wed, 04 May 2016 05:42:27 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to; bh=Kz0/rp3olWG254OAnHQLPMrTSRDybaG59TFR9cSW4i4=; b=NtPDNvYdV4UWP9AXxcnO61+L6CybY0JGBczmtoIcRFF+bqSUg0/VaEghI7WPimjK86 le2yW10wvF0aZLyKIW89YCtRGAa0Fn6X07BkroRXt057Qb1jbirIxtKKVOrZApUzfPk0 J8GkH4WjUIM2ntfkdfdip1RXxE6cNnl034YuOq3qZiSBwvoPcqs0zHDbWQfB01eYpU11 S5L42z+9K4Hrw5k7v2QQ/X4bW5XUqOMdj3y2ZEBu9vi566knh+0a3wZxni60SxMFI22U sQJhE0o/HRYy53n+ThNgHFL8cD4bDyILeb/cy2H/HBW6FxhziSvxy3ADhC3WPtuYn550 HWCA== d=1e100.net; s=20130820; h=x-gm-message-state:mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date :message-id:subject:from:to; bh=Kz0/rp3olWG254OAnHQLPMrTSRDybaG59TFR9cSW4i4=; b=BnxUKU56Yho5/YVO8qvLLR1S/53Bktv3rG7czVewPyvkY+4ejKizAWH3Tl/PZBVa0c HmQdrfCV2+epRXLkyWYqKihXp9LIaNA+lxSTMvYLCh7xbKxVndOTWlrTa26raEUqCjrd eMOjbv96VolKKrB9YHdNldZNalw88PE8kbozfi4NlfHJiUGxFfQ/quAJAtkHjXH4rbFf ayn9hlxawFx6UgPtXpm4t41RwR8P6DLhQ5n869ingE+jsm/K2z+y/WRoSreLzYjuL1JN zwbApIqLVTH1U0Glfcru3yKsyBOV98aplCgEnuHvl8mjpsy1j+vEC+THh9VqcV+1nDui qz4Q== Wed, 04 May 2016 05:42:26 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.37.53.135 with HTTP; Wed, 4 May 2016 05:42:26 -0700 (PDT) References: <5728F7B6.2080205@stclegal.com> <20160504123809.CD4872588DBD@autox.team.net> Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 08:42:26 -0400 To: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] No Go Mystery From: Jim Tinkham via Mgs Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net --===============1329750076436655294== --94eb2c06c240da0a7d0532038e32 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I like Gordie=E2=80=99s thought, I=E2=80=99ve seen coils do the same. Some= thing else to look at if the coil is good is the alternator, the one on my C wasn=E2=80= =99t rebuilt properly and would fail at higher temps causing similar symptoms. Tink On Wed, May 4, 2016 at 8:25 AM, Gordie Bird via Mgs wrote: > I=E2=80=99ve seen the coil fail intermittently, seems fine when cold, but= fails > when warm. You have coil mounted on inner fender or bracket (like 1600), > right? Unlikely all plug wires would fail at same time, but, if the coi= l > wire was bad=E2=80=A6 > > Have you checked spark once coil heats up? Weak coil possibly producing = a > weak or no spark when hot? > > Sudden failure as you describe; to me would indicate something in the > electrics. > > I=E2=80=99d throw my spare coil, then condenser, then coil wire at it and= see what > happens. > > > > Good luck! > > > > Gordie > > =E2=80=9962 MGA > > > > > > > > *From: *Robert J. Guinness via Mgs > *Sent: *Tuesday, May 3, 2016 8:05 PM > *To: *MG List > *Subject: *[Mgs] No Go Mystery > > > > While on a long drive in the hinterlands of KY in my 1960 MGA with a > 3-main 1800 MGB engine, I nearly ran out of gas after about 170 miles tha= t > day. I found a gas station and refueled (the gas had alcohol and I usual= ly > run non-alcohol gas). About 30 miles later, the car started to lose powe= r > and then quit. Figured it was a clogged fuel line, but fuel was pumping o= ut > of the fuel line at the rear carb and there was gas in both float bowls. > Cleaned out both float bowls. Had spark from the coil and to all plugs. > Had just replaced spark plugs and gapped them to spec two days previously= . > Regapped points (1 year old 25D distributor). Nothing. Sprayed starting > fluid in the carbs. Nothing. Locals towed me back to town. Locals played > with wires under the bonnet at the coil as I politely batted them away. = As > a last ditch effort, I advanced the timing and it caught at high revs! > Drove a few miles, but lost power as I accelerated and stopped. Stripped > and reattached coil wire to harness. Started, drove a couple of miles, > faded, and stopped. Towed it home. At home, it started reluctantly. It > drove for a couple of miles and it faded and quit. Gas in rear carb floa= t > bowl but no gas at the front carb float bowl. Blew air from fuel pump bac= k > to gas tank with audible air flow at the gas tank. Replaced the float bo= wl > needle and seat at the front carb. Fuel pumping nicely at both front and > rear carbs. Have spark from the coil and to all plugs. Static timed. > Nothing, doesn't even try to catch. I do not have a fuel filter other tha= n > stock sleeve in the fuel pump. No odd sounds. I am stupefied ( except for > the possibility of clogged jets, but if so why wouldn=E2=80=99t it start = with > starter fluid). If it is the coil or condensor, why am I getting spark? > Why would advancing the timing get it to go at such high revs that one > time, but normal timing gives you nothing at all, not even a spit? Do I > have a cam flat spot problem? How have I angered the British engineering > gods? Any hints or diagnostic suggestions? I have also posted to the MG > experience folks > > -- > > Robert Guinness > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/tink5775@gmail.com > > --94eb2c06c240da0a7d0532038e32 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I like Gordie=E2=80=99s thought, I=E2=80=99ve seen coils d= o the same.=C2=A0 Something else to look at if the coil is good is the alte= rnator, the one on my C wasn=E2=80=99t rebuilt properly and would fail at h= igher temps causing similar symptoms.

Tink

On Wed, May 4, 2016= at 8:25 AM, Gordie Bird via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net> wrote= :

I=E2=80=99ve seen the coil fail in= termittently, seems fine when cold, but fails when warm.=C2=A0 You have coi= l mounted on inner fender or bracket (like 1600), right?=C2=A0 Unlikely all= plug wires would fail at same time, but, =C2=A0if the coil wire was bad=E2= =80=A6

Have you checked spark once coil heats up?= =C2=A0 Weak coil possibly producing a weak or no spark when hot?

Sudden failure as you describe; to me would indicate someth= ing in the electrics.

I=E2=80=99d throw my spare = coil, then condenser, then coil wire at it and see what happens.

=C2=A0

Good luck!

=C2=A0

Gor= die

=E2=80=9962 MGA

=C2=A0

=C2=A0<= /u>

=C2=A0

<= p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"border:none;padding:0in">From: Robert J. Guinness via Mg= s
Sent: Tuesday, May 3, 2016 8:05 PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] No Go Mystery

= =C2=A0

While on a long d= rive in the hinterlands of KY in my 1960 MGA with a 3-main 1800 MGB engine,= I nearly ran out of gas after about 170 miles that day.=C2=A0 I found a ga= s station and refueled (the gas had alcohol and I usually run non-alcohol g= as).=C2=A0 About 30 miles later, the car started to lose power and then qui= t. Figured it was a clogged fuel line, but fuel was pumping out of the fuel= line at the rear carb and there was gas in both float bowls. Cleaned out b= oth float bowls.=C2=A0 Had spark from the coil and to all plugs.=C2=A0 Had = just replaced spark plugs and gapped them to spec two days previously. Rega= pped points (1 year old 25D distributor). Nothing.=C2=A0 Sprayed starting f= luid in the carbs.=C2=A0 Nothing. Locals towed me back to town. Locals play= ed with wires under the bonnet at the coil as I politely batted them away.= =C2=A0 As a last ditch effort, I advanced the timing and it caught at high = revs!=C2=A0 Drove a few miles, but lost power as I accelerated and stopped.= =C2=A0 Stripped and reattached coil wire to harness.=C2=A0 Started, drove a= couple of miles, faded, and stopped. Towed it home.=C2=A0 At home, it star= ted reluctantly.=C2=A0 It drove for a couple of miles and it faded and quit= . Gas=C2=A0 in rear carb float bowl but no gas at the front carb float bowl= . Blew air from fuel pump back to gas tank with audible air flow at the gas= tank.=C2=A0 Replaced the float bowl needle and seat at the front carb.=C2= =A0 Fuel pumping nicely at both front and rear carbs.=C2=A0 Have spark from= the coil and to all plugs. Static timed.=C2=A0 Nothing, doesn't even t= ry to catch. I do not have a fuel filter other than stock sleeve in the fue= l pump. No odd sounds. I am stupefied ( except for the possibility of clogg= ed jets, but if so why wouldn=E2=80=99t it start with starter fluid).=C2=A0= If it is the coil or condensor, why am I getting spark?=C2=A0 Why would ad= vancing the timing get it to go at such high revs that one time, but normal= timing gives you nothing at all, not even a spit? Do I have a cam flat spo= t problem? How have I angered the British engineering gods?=C2=A0 Any hints= or diagnostic suggestions?=C2=A0 I have also posted to the MG experience f= olks

-- =

Robert Guinness

=C2=A0=


_____________________________________= __________

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et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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--94eb2c06c240da0a7d0532038e32-- --===============1329750076436655294== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============1329750076436655294==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 4 07:46:14 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6F15D2588B20 for ; Wed, 4 May 2016 07:46:14 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from mail3c40.carrierzone.com (mail3c40.carrierzone.com [209.235.156.143]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E81F925891B5 for ; Wed, 4 May 2016 07:24:26 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [127.0.0.1] (c-76-22-133-123.hsd1.tn.comcast.net [76.22.133.123]) (authenticated bits=0) by mail3c40.carrierzone.com (8.14.9/8.14.9) with ESMTP id u44DOOAV017423; Wed, 4 May 2016 13:24:25 +0000 To: MG List , "Robert J. Guinness via Mgs" References: <5728F7B6.2080205@stclegal.com> <20160504123239.54357258913D@autox.team.net> Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 08:24:21 -0500 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/45.0 reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0 a=BBoJULmWCZbQwUwPKullYA==:17 a=L9H7d07YOLsA:10 a=9cW_t1CCXrUA:10 a=s5jvgZ67dGcA:10 a=N659UExz7-8A:10 a=zOoktvdPAAAA:8 a=V6f-GIhDAAAA:8 a=U-aBnCC570sBDH_HQrYA:9 a=bUfVeU1xi8rdmkNp:21 a=pILNOxqGKmIA:10 a=UiCQ7L4-1S4A:10 a=hTZeC7Yk6K0A:10 a=_W_S_7VecoQA:10 a=frz4AuCg-hUA:10 a=m3MdUl94G8cA:10 Subject: Re: [Mgs] No Go Mystery From: Mark via Mgs Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net --===============0648997451934344664== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

A few years back there was a bad run of ignition rotors released that fit many Brit distributors.  They would develop a spark path from the contact to the post grounding out the high voltage stopping the engine.  It was so bad that I had two fail and then carried several spares. I ended up handing them out to three friends that had on the road failures.  I finally found another brand that didn't have the problem but the name on the box has nothing to do with who made it.  However it seems that the one made by Airtex/Wells (RockAuto 4R1187 $3.45) was different and has worked well.  Now this may have nothing to do with your problem but the symptoms are similar enough to mention it.  Good luck!

Mark

Nashville


On 5/4/2016 7:25 AM, Gordie Bird via Mgs wrote:

I’ve seen the coil fail intermittently, seems fine when cold, but fails when warm.  You have coil mounted on inner fender or bracket (like 1600), right?  Unlikely all plug wires would fail at same time, but,  if the coil wire was bad…

Have you checked spark once coil heats up?  Weak coil possibly producing a weak or no spark when hot?

Sudden failure as you describe; to me would indicate something in the electrics.

I’d throw my spare coil, then condenser, then coil wire at it and see what happens.

 

Good luck!

 

Gordie

’62 MGA

 

 

 

From: Robert J. Guinness via Mgs
Sent: Tuesday, May 3, 2016 8:05 PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] No Go Mystery

 

While on a long drive in the hinterlands of KY in my 1960 MGA with a 3-main 1800 MGB engine, I nearly ran out of gas after about 170 miles that day.  I found a gas station and refueled (the gas had alcohol and I usually run non-alcohol gas).  About 30 miles later, the car started to lose power and then quit. Figured it was a clogged fuel line, but fuel was pumping out of the fuel line at the rear carb and there was gas in both float bowls. Cleaned out both float bowls.  Had spark from the coil and to all plugs.  Had just replaced spark plugs and gapped them to spec two days previously. Regapped points (1 year old 25D distributor). Nothing.  Sprayed starting fluid in the carbs.  Nothing. Locals towed me back to town. Locals played with wires under the bonnet at the coil as I politely batted them away.  As a last ditch effort, I advanced the timing and it caught at high revs!  Drove a few miles, but lost power as I accelerated and stopped.  Stripped and reattached coil wire to harness.  Started, drove a couple of miles, faded, and stopped. Towed it home.  At home, it started reluctantly.  It drove for a couple of miles and it faded and quit. Gas  in rear carb float bowl but no gas at the front carb float bowl. Blew air from fuel pump back to gas tank with audible air flow at the gas tank.  Replaced the float bowl needle and seat at the front carb.  Fuel pumping nicely at both front and rear carbs.  Have spark from the coil and to all plugs. Static timed.  Nothing, doesn't even try to catch. I do not have a fuel filter other than stock sleeve in the fuel pump. No odd sounds. I am stupefied ( except for the possibility of clogged jets, but if so why wouldn’t it start with starter fluid).  If it is the coil or condensor, why am I getting spark?  Why would advancing the timing get it to go at such high revs that one time, but normal timing gives you nothing at all, not even a spit? Do I have a cam flat spot problem? How have I angered the British engineering gods?  Any hints or diagnostic suggestions?  I have also posted to the MG experience folks

--

Robert Guinness

 



_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mark@nashvilletn.org

--===============0648997451934344664== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============0648997451934344664==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 4 09:08:51 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 47E9E2589195 for ; Wed, 4 May 2016 09:08:51 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from homiemail-a33.g.dreamhost.com (sub4.mail.dreamhost.com [69.163.253.135]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id CA7C82587718 for ; Wed, 4 May 2016 08:00:20 -0600 (MDT) Received: from homiemail-a33.g.dreamhost.com (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by homiemail-a33.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 922FE59408E for ; Wed, 4 May 2016 07:00:14 -0700 (PDT) :date:from:mime-version:to:subject:content-type; s=stclegal.com; bh=Lb+jQ8Jcg5G5ElbgLXJ24RgIAco=; b=JCcWXQaLd6ZYkiGUYhbartiWAyii grhAUS/7EbZ07dtdOEN3QHsCOfFXDclF4hNF3pxABFM8ni3DLDi/cX8xMRZ5EiSP v+NZwAOpPXMi0PW4uiHOUdg1nNz5J3jGZeepuOsMwLDcIUHfUb3L24EBwlAbBXXp VqFgoSjesZuRJHo= Received: from [192.168.1.69] (66-128-101-178.static.stls.mo.charter.com [66.128.101.178]) (using TLSv1 with cipher DHE-RSA-AES256-SHA (256/256 bits)) (No client certificate requested) (Authenticated sender: guinness@stclegal.com) by homiemail-a33.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTPSA id C1EE7594059 for ; Wed, 4 May 2016 07:00:13 -0700 (PDT) Date: Wed, 04 May 2016 09:00:00 -0500 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.0.1 To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] No Go Mystery Solved! From: "Robert J. Guinness via Mgs" Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --===============7888676911611365348== boundary="------------010903080001070505040706" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------010903080001070505040706 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit And the ultimate winners are . . . the coil! Kudos to Mitchell Andrus and Jeff Sienkiewicz. However, I think the original problem was a combination of fuel and coil. But after replacing the float needles and blowing out the fuel line it still would not even try to start -- until I put in a new coil. Purred like a kitten on the first turn of the starter. I guess I have to learn what the difference is between a weak spark and a good spark. Many thanks to all who gave me guidance in my despair! It is wonderful that many folks take the time to share their wisdom and experience. I feel like I am part of an MG "Borg" ( a collective cyber/biologic hive intelligence for you non Star Trek fans). Almost forgot to applaud Bill Bussler as well for his condensor and coil vote! At 02:10 PM 5/3/2016 -0500, Robert Guinness wrote: "While on a long drive in the hinterlands of KY in my 1960 MGA with a 3-main 1800 MGB engine, I nearly ran out of gas after about 170 miles that day. I found a gas station and refueled (the gas had alcohol and I usually run non-alcohol gas). About 30 miles later, the car started to lose power and then quit. Figured it was a clogged fuel line, but fuel was pumping out of the fuel line at the rear carb and there was gas in both float bowls. Cleaned out both float bowls. Had spark from the coil and to all plugs. Had just replaced spark plugs and gapped them to spec two days previously. Regapped points (1 year old 25D distributor). Nothing. Sprayed starting fluid in the carbs. Nothing. Locals towed me back to town. Locals played with wires under the bonnet at the coil as I politely batted them away. As a last ditch effort, I advanced the timing and it caught at high revs! Drove a few miles, but lost power as I accelerated and stopped. Stripped and reattached coil wire to harness. Started, drove a couple of miles, faded, and stopped. Towed it home. At home, it started reluctantly. It drove for a couple of miles and it faded and quit. Gas in rear carb float bowl but no gas at the front carb float bowl. Blew air from fuel pump back to gas tank with audible air flow at the gas tank. Replaced the float bowl needle and seat at the front carb. Fuel pumping nicely at both front and rear carbs. Have spark from the coil and to all plugs. Static timed. Nothing, doesn't even try to catch. I do not have a fuel filter other than stock sleeve in the fuel pump. No odd sounds. I am stupefied ( except for the possibility of clogged jets, but if so why wouldn't it start with starter fluid). If it is the coil or condensor, why am I getting spark? Why would advancing the timing get it to go at such high revs that one time, but normal timing gives you nothing at all, not even a spit? Do I have a cam flat spot problem? How have I angered the British engineering gods? Any hints or diagnostic suggestions? I have also posted to the MG experience folks" -- e-mail signature Robert Guinness --------------010903080001070505040706 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit And the ultimate winners are . . . the coil!

Kudos to Mitchell Andrus and Jeff Sienkiewicz. However, I think the original problem was a combination of fuel and coil. But after replacing the float needles and blowing out the fuel line it still would not even try to start -- until I put in a new coil. Purred like a kitten on the first turn of the starter. I guess I have to learn what the difference is between a weak spark and a good spark.

Many thanks to all who gave me guidance in my despair! It is wonderful that many folks take the time to share their wisdom and experience. I feel like I am part of an MG "Borg" ( a collective cyber/biologic hive intelligence for you non Star Trek fans).

Almost forgot to applaud Bill Bussler as well for his condensor and coil vote!

At 02:10 PM 5/3/2016 -0500, Robert Guinness wrote:
"While on a long drive in the hinterlands of KY in my 1960 MGA with a 3-main 1800 MGB engine, I nearly ran out of gas after about 170 miles that day.  I found a gas station and refueled (the gas had alcohol and I usually run non-alcohol gas).  About 30 miles later, the car started to lose power and then quit. Figured it was a clogged fuel line, but fuel was pumping out of the fuel line at the rear carb and there was gas in both float bowls. Cleaned out both float bowls.  Had spark from the coil and to all plugs.  Had just replaced spark plugs and gapped them to spec two days previously. Regapped points (1 year old 25D distributor). Nothing.  Sprayed starting fluid in the carbs.  Nothing. Locals towed me back to town. Locals played with wires under the bonnet at the coil as I politely batted them away.  As a last ditch effort, I advanced the timing and it caught at high revs!  Drove a few miles, but lost power as I accelerated and stopped.  Stripped and reattached coil wire to harness.  Started, drove a couple of miles, faded, and stopped. Towed it home.  At home, it started reluctantly.  It drove for a couple of miles and it faded and quit. Gas  in rear carb float bowl but no gas at the front carb float bowl. Blew air from fuel pump back to gas tank with audible air flow at the gas tank.  Replaced the float bowl needle and seat at the front carb.  Fuel pumping nicely at both front and rear carbs.  Have spark from the coil and to all plugs. Static timed.  Nothing, doesn't even try to catch. I do not have a fuel filter other than stock sleeve in the fuel pump. No odd sounds. I am stupefied ( except for the possibility of clogged jets, but if so why wouldn’t it start with starter fluid).  If it is the coil or condensor, why am I getting spark?  Why would advancing the timing get it to go at such high revs that one time, but normal timing gives you nothing at all, not even a spit? Do I have a cam flat spot problem? How have I angered the British engineering gods?  Any hints or diagnostic suggestions?  I have also posted to the MG experience folks"
--
e-mail signature

Robert Guinness

--------------010903080001070505040706-- --===============7888676911611365348== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============7888676911611365348==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 4 09:29:22 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id DACCB2588FCD for ; Wed, 4 May 2016 09:29:22 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from mail.inlandnet.com (mail.inlandnet.com [204.14.96.25]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 97B92258920D for ; Wed, 4 May 2016 09:06:01 -0600 (MDT) Received: from mail.interback.net (uni-a3-199.dsl.inlandnet.com [204.14.99.199]) by mail.inlandnet.com (8.14.5/8.14.5) with ESMTP id u44F5xkh028024; Wed, 4 May 2016 08:05:59 -0700 (PDT) (envelope-from dcouncill@karamursel.org) Received: from ISNSS001 (unknown [134.121.150.2]) by mail.interback.net (Postfix) with ESMTPA id 001C9C0C73; Wed, 4 May 2016 08:05:53 -0700 (PDT) To: "'Robert J. Guinness'" References: <5728F786.3020300@stclegal.com> Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 08:05:52 -0700 Thread-Index: AQEicvCiEDr9Zq5YCf1ugUnIdsPwP6EHP+SA Content-Language: en-us Cc: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] No Go Mystery From: David Councill via Mgs Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net This is a multipart message in MIME format. --===============0591484744855878536== boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0011_01D1A5DB.C7C6CB10" Content-Language: en-us This is a multipart message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01D1A5DB.C7C6CB10 charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To add what a few others have mentioned, it does sound electrical. The first thing I do is determine whether its electrical or fuel. With fuel in the bowls, it tends to point to electrical although I also check the carb dampers and that the pistons can move up and down (not stuck). On the electrical side, I pull out a spark plug to check appearance and then with it connected to the ignition lead, place it on the block and check for a visible spark when cranking the engine. Now to add to this, a short story on my last issue of this nature - I was having some intermittent and very short durations of power loss when I started driving my 64B this spring which I at first thought might be moisture in the fuel.until it completely died on the drive home one day (after I ignored the problem for several days). I coasted into a nearby Wendys parking lot and determined there was no spark so I started checking connections, particularly the condenser to points connection (insure tightness, proper insulation with the plastic washer). Turns out the nut was slightly loose so I tightened it. Car started right up and I drove home. But the intermittent cutting out started to return again (maybe a few 1-2 second incidents over several miles). So I decided to replace the points and condenser the next weekend and that was when I discovered the real problem. On the points terminal that the condenser attaches to, there is another cloth insulated wire that attached to a plastic terminal on the distributer (part #16 - http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29062 ). The wire had started rotting away to the point that it was down to a few copper strands (but unseen inside the cloth insulation)and it disintegrated during the points removal. Fortunately, I had a spare distributer that I could get a replacement part off and that solved the issue. Car has been running great now with about 500 miles or so of error free operation. Other suspects would be the condenser or possible the ignition coil - I have had these fail in the past. And as far as cam flat spots - I have had that issue too about 30 years ago. However, that did not stop the car from running - it just idled rough and suffered a lack of power (but not a loss of power). You would know when doing the routine valve adjustments as you will not see much up/down movement of the valves. David Councill 64 MGB 67 MGBGT 72 MGB From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert J. Guinness via Mgs Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2016 12:10 PM To: MG List Subject: [Mgs] No Go Mystery While on a long drive in the hinterlands of KY in my 1960 MGA with a 3-main 1800 MGB engine, I nearly ran out of gas after about 170 miles that day. I found a gas station and refueled (the gas had alcohol and I usually run non-alcohol gas). About 30 miles later, the car started to lose power and then quit. Figured it was a clogged fuel line, but fuel was pumping out of the fuel line at the rear carb and there was gas in both float bowls. Cleaned out both float bowls. Had spark from the coil and to all plugs. Had just replaced spark plugs and gapped them to spec two days previously. Regapped points (1 year old 25D distributor). Nothing. Sprayed starting fluid in the carbs. Nothing. Locals towed me back to town. Locals played with wires under the bonnet at the coil as I politely batted them away. As a last ditch effort, I advanced the timing and it caught at high revs! Drove a few miles, but lost power as I accelerated and stopped. Stripped and reattached coil wire to harness. Started, drove a couple of miles, faded, and stopped. Towed it home. At home, it started reluctantly. It drove for a couple of miles and it faded and quit. Gas in rear carb float bowl but no gas at the front carb float bowl. Blew air from fuel pump back to gas tank with audible air flow at the gas tank. Replaced the float bowl needle and seat at the front carb. Fuel pumping nicely at both front and rear carbs. Have spark from the coil and to all plugs. Static timed. Nothing, doesn't even try to catch. I do not have a fuel filter other than stock sleeve in the fuel pump. No odd sounds. I am stupefied ( except for the possibility of clogged jets, but if so why wouldn't it start with starter fluid). If it is the coil or condensor, why am I getting spark? Why would advancing the timing get it to go at such high revs that one time, but normal timing gives you nothing at all, not even a spit? Do I have a cam flat spot problem? How have I angered the British engineering gods? Any hints or diagnostic suggestions? -- Robert Guinness ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01D1A5DB.C7C6CB10 charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable e-mail signature

To add what a few others have mentioned, it does sound electrical. = The first thing I do is determine whether its electrical or fuel. With = fuel in the bowls, it tends to point to electrical although I also check = the carb dampers and that the pistons can move up and down (not stuck). = On the electrical side, I pull out a spark plug to check appearance and = then with it connected to the ignition lead, place it on the block and = check for a visible spark when cranking the = engine.

 

Now to add to this, a short story on my last issue of this nature = – I was having some intermittent and very short durations of power = loss when I started driving my 64B this spring which I at first thought = might be moisture in the fuel…until it completely died on the = drive home one day (after I ignored the problem for several days). I = coasted into a nearby Wendys parking lot and determined there was no = spark so I started checking connections, particularly the condenser to = points connection (insure tightness, proper insulation with the plastic = washer). Turns out the nut was slightly loose so I tightened it. Car = started right up and I drove home. But the intermittent cutting out = started to return again (maybe a few 1-2 second incidents over several = miles). So I decided to replace the points and condenser the next = weekend and that was when I discovered the real problem. On the points = terminal that the condenser attaches to, there is another cloth = insulated wire that attached to a plastic terminal on the distributer = (part #16 - http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=3D290= 62 ). The wire had started rotting away to the point that it was = down to a few copper strands (but unseen inside the cloth insulation)and = it disintegrated during the points removal. Fortunately, I had a spare = distributer that I could get a replacement part off and that solved the = issue. Car has been running great now with about 500 miles or so of = error free operation.

 

Other suspects would be the condenser or possible the ignition coil = – I have had these fail in the past. And as far as cam flat spots = – I have had that issue too about 30 years ago. However, that did = not stop the car from running – it just idled rough and suffered a = lack of power (but not a loss of power). You would know when doing the = routine valve adjustments as you will not see much up/down movement of = the valves.

 

David Councill

64 MGB

67 MGBGT

72 MGB

 

From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert = J. Guinness via Mgs
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2016 12:10 = PM
To: MG List
Subject: [Mgs] No Go = Mystery

 

While on a = long drive in the hinterlands of KY in my 1960 MGA with a 3-main 1800 = MGB engine, I nearly ran out of gas after about 170 miles that = day.  I found a gas station and refueled (the gas had alcohol and I = usually run non-alcohol gas).  About 30 miles later, the car = started to lose power and then quit. Figured it was a clogged fuel line, = but fuel was pumping out of the fuel line at the rear carb and there was = gas in both float bowls. Cleaned out both float bowls.  Had spark = from the coil and to all plugs.  Had just replaced spark plugs and = gapped them to spec two days previously. Regapped points (1 year old 25D = distributor). Nothing.  Sprayed starting fluid in the carbs.  = Nothing. Locals towed me back to town. Locals played with wires under = the bonnet at the coil as I politely batted them away.  As a last = ditch effort, I advanced the timing and it caught at high revs!  = Drove a few miles, but lost power as I accelerated and stopped.  = Stripped and reattached coil wire to harness.  Started, drove a = couple of miles, faded, and stopped. Towed it home.  At home, it = started reluctantly.  It drove for a couple of miles and it faded = and quit. Gas  in rear carb float bowl but no gas at the front carb = float bowl. Blew air from fuel pump back to gas tank with audible air = flow at the gas tank.  Replaced the float bowl needle and seat at = the front carb.  Fuel pumping nicely at both front and rear = carbs.  Have spark from the coil and to all plugs. Static = timed.  Nothing, doesn't even try to catch. I do not have a fuel = filter other than stock sleeve in the fuel pump. No odd sounds. I am = stupefied ( except for the possibility of clogged jets, but if so why = wouldn’t it start with starter fluid).  If it is the coil or = condensor, why am I getting spark?  Why would advancing the timing = get it to go at such high revs that one time, but normal timing gives = you nothing at all, not even a spit? Do I have a cam flat spot problem? = How have I angered the British engineering gods?  Any hints or = diagnostic suggestions?

-- =

Robert = Guinness

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01D1A5DB.C7C6CB10-- --===============0591484744855878536== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============0591484744855878536==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 7 19:31:23 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 39A6325888D8 for ; Sat, 7 May 2016 19:31:23 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from mail.inlandnet.com (mail.inlandnet.com [204.14.96.25]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id A120A2587941 for ; Fri, 6 May 2016 09:09:46 -0600 (MDT) Received: from mail.interback.net (uni-a3-199.dsl.inlandnet.com [204.14.99.199]) by mail.inlandnet.com (8.14.5/8.14.5) with ESMTP id u46F9qSg031035 for ; Fri, 6 May 2016 08:09:52 -0700 (PDT) (envelope-from dcouncill@karamursel.org) Received: from ISNSS001 (unknown [134.121.150.2]) by mail.interback.net (Postfix) with ESMTPA id 0A349C0767 for ; Fri, 6 May 2016 08:09:46 -0700 (PDT) To: Date: Fri, 6 May 2016 08:09:43 -0700 Thread-Index: AdGnpmHVZgSJ/VzfTXGQcyRhDvtUQg== Content-Language: en-us Subject: [Mgs] steering wheel quest From: David Councill via Mgs Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net This is a multipart message in MIME format. --===============1360628045433365566== boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0073_01D1A76E.A755BC30" Content-Language: en-us This is a multipart message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0073_01D1A76E.A755BC30 charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have been restoring a 1964 MGB (my non-winter daily driver). It needed a steering wheel when I brought it back to life several years ago after it sat in the previous owner's garage for about 30 years. So I purchased the original style (banjo) steering wheel since I have never had one in my many years of MG ownership plus I try to keep the cars fairly original. What I did not realize is how big they are in diameter plus I liked the feel of the smaller loaner steering wheel I had been using that belonged to my son. Having several MGBs, I determined my preferred steering wheel diameter to be 14"-15", leaning more to 14" (13" being too small). So now I have been watching for steering wheels, preferably wood. Although I have looked at the modern Moto-Lita and other variants, I found a used steering wheel on Ebay, Styla brand, but it has a few defects, comes with the entire column, and would cost about the same as a new Moto-Lita for the whole thing. So now I have been focusing on a period correct after-market wood steering wheel (14-15") as the preferred option. But I can't seem to find much information on vintage steering wheels. There is the Les Leston brand but I haven't seen any for sale the past few months. The Styla brand looks good if I can find one at a decent price. I have now located a "Superior Performance" steering wheel that has promise but the boss is plain (no logo) and the seller is not sure it has the correct boss - and that could be a problem since I cannot tell what kind of boss might work if I had to replace it. So I'll ask the list what any of you might now of 1960s wood steering wheels used on the MGB and any sources of such to help in my search. David Councill 64 MGB 67 MGBGT 72 MGB ------=_NextPart_000_0073_01D1A76E.A755BC30 charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have = been restoring a 1964 MGB (my non-winter daily driver). It needed a = steering wheel when I brought it back to life several years ago after it = sat in the previous owner’s garage for about 30 years. So I = purchased the original style (banjo) steering wheel since I have never = had one in my many years of MG ownership plus I try to keep the cars = fairly original. What I did not realize is how big they are in diameter = plus I liked the feel of the smaller loaner steering wheel I had been = using that belonged to my son. Having several MGBs, I determined my = preferred steering wheel diameter to be 14”-15”, leaning = more to 14” (13” being too small).

 

So now I = have been watching for steering wheels, preferably wood. Although I have = looked at the modern Moto-Lita and other variants, I found a used = steering wheel on Ebay, Styla brand, but it has a few defects, comes = with the entire column, and would cost about the same as a new Moto-Lita = for the whole thing. So now I have been focusing on a period correct = after-market wood steering wheel (14-15”) as the preferred option. = But I can’t seem to find much information on vintage steering = wheels. There is the Les Leston brand but I haven’t seen any for = sale the past few months. The Styla brand looks good if I can find one = at a decent price. I have now located a “Superior = Performance” steering wheel that has promise but the boss is plain = (no logo) and the seller is not sure it has the correct boss – and = that could be a problem since I cannot tell what kind of boss might work = if I had to replace it.

 

So = I’ll ask the list what any of you might now of 1960s wood steering = wheels used on the MGB and any sources of such to help in my = search.

 

David Councill

64 = MGB

67 MGBGT

72 MGB

 

------=_NextPart_000_0073_01D1A76E.A755BC30-- --===============1360628045433365566== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============1360628045433365566==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 8 05:30:29 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 96E742588734 for ; Sun, 8 May 2016 05:30:29 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from mailrelay.embarq.synacor.com (smtp-fo.agate.dfw.synacor.com [205.219.233.7]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id BF7512585FEE for ; Sat, 7 May 2016 20:42:35 -0600 (MDT) X_CMAE_Category: , , a=I0wsP0/ub+0M/VQyKFHlEA==:117 a=I0wsP0/ub+0M/VQyKFHlEA==:17 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10 a=z1R5-WJlAAAA:8 a=eip8kgN10dmqFBDdyVcA:9 a=Ipm2Pl_kkUMA:10 a=oxxeDBjUT00A:10 a=kg9qoP3DWH8A:10 a=GlfeG8oKyEryR_2UBgcf:22 Authentication-Results: smtp01.agate.dfw.synacor.com smtp.user=ejrussell@mebtel.net; auth=pass (LOGIN) Received: from [99.194.29.42] ([99.194.29.42:65517] helo=EricJRussellPC) by smtp.centurylink.net (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 3.5.1.37854 r(Momo-dev:3.5.1.0)) with ESMTPA id 6D/04-08499-B97AE275; Sat, 07 May 2016 22:42:36 -0400 To: References: Date: Sat, 7 May 2016 22:41:04 -0400 Subject: Re: [Mgs] steering wheel quest From: Eric J Russell via Mgs Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net ----- Original Message ----- > So now I have been watching for steering wheels, preferably wood. What is the reason for not buying one of the alternate steering wheels that Moss lists? http://www.mossmotors.com/Browse/PlateMenuProducts.aspx?WebCatalogID=8&PlateTypeID=1&SubcomponentID=118&ComponentID=16 Eric Russell Mebane, NC _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 8 12:57:50 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C1BFA2588E6E for ; Sun, 8 May 2016 12:57:50 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from mail3c40.carrierzone.com (mail3c40.carrierzone.com [209.235.156.143]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 722FD25888D7 for ; Sun, 8 May 2016 07:52:57 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [127.0.0.1] (c-76-22-133-123.hsd1.tn.comcast.net [76.22.133.123]) (authenticated bits=0) by mail3c40.carrierzone.com (8.14.9/8.14.9) with ESMTP id u48DquTX007150; Sun, 8 May 2016 13:52:57 +0000 To: David Councill , mgs@autox.team.net References: <007201d1a7a9$53b49430$fb1dbc90$@karamursel.org> Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 08:52:55 -0500 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/45.0 reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0 a=BBoJULmWCZbQwUwPKullYA==:17 a=L9H7d07YOLsA:10 a=9cW_t1CCXrUA:10 a=s5jvgZ67dGcA:10 a=N659UExz7-8A:10 a=B-7e3EGhAAAA:8 a=12PiDTGCAAAA:8 a=zOoktvdPAAAA:8 a=V6f-GIhDAAAA:8 a=qNdd27785z1G2IfHGFsA:9 a=0g9KTEjGGW3i7Tjh:21 a=pILNOxqGKmIA:10 a=UiCQ7L4-1S4A:10 a=hTZeC7Yk6K0A:10 a=_W_S_7VecoQA:10 a=frz4AuCg-hUA:10 a=m3MdUl94G8cA:10 a=NWVC2mH8hXd8_PROZn5O:22 a=9C0H88CycNrlr5Sg7cm3:22 a=GGGinmgZRQXmVEG1E52S:22 a=C07Rfus20dT3VM2q1Lha:22 Subject: Re: [Mgs] steering wheel quest From: Mark via Mgs Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net --===============5446941661521263276== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

I have used Lecarra before and had good luck. Their hubs and horn pushes are interchangeable with Motolita.  They are located in Tennessee so you can actually talk to them.

http://www.lecarra.com/ 


On 5/6/2016 10:09 AM, David Councill via Mgs wrote:

I have been restoring a 1964 MGB (my non-winter daily driver). It needed a steering wheel when I brought it back to life several years ago after it sat in the previous owner’s garage for about 30 years. So I purchased the original style (banjo) steering wheel since I have never had one in my many years of MG ownership plus I try to keep the cars fairly original. What I did not realize is how big they are in diameter plus I liked the feel of the smaller loaner steering wheel I had been using that belonged to my son. Having several MGBs, I determined my preferred steering wheel diameter to be 14”-15”, leaning more to 14” (13” being too small).

 

So now I have been watching for steering wheels, preferably wood. Although I have looked at the modern Moto-Lita and other variants, I found a used steering wheel on Ebay, Styla brand, but it has a few defects, comes with the entire column, and would cost about the same as a new Moto-Lita for the whole thing. So now I have been focusing on a period correct after-market wood steering wheel (14-15”) as the preferred option. But I can’t seem to find much information on vintage steering wheels. There is the Les Leston brand but I haven’t seen any for sale the past few months. The Styla brand looks good if I can find one at a decent price. I have now located a “Superior Performance” steering wheel that has promise but the boss is plain (no logo) and the seller is not sure it has the correct boss – and that could be a problem since I cannot tell what kind of boss might work if I had to replace it.

 

So I’ll ask the list what any of you might now of 1960s wood steering wheels used on the MGB and any sources of such to help in my search.

 

David Councill

64 MGB

67 MGBGT

72 MGB

 



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--===============5446941661521263276== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============5446941661521263276==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 8 14:51:10 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E8B082588DF7 for ; Sun, 8 May 2016 14:51:09 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from outbound-mail03.vgs.untd.com (outbound-mail03.vgs.untd.com [64.136.55.37]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with SMTP id 088402588B91 for ; Sun, 8 May 2016 10:06:51 -0600 (MDT) t=1462723611; bh=47DEQpj8HBSa+/TImW+5JCeuQeRkm5NMpJWZG3hSuFU=; l=0; h=From:Date:To:Subject:Message-Id:Content-Type; b=VkpYrP+y4sYhgj6P8RMyj/y+WsI0HA//15OJcK9f5HlJiua8vcSdr70+NzLc/kWAq aJnVYCQKpmqcNuotoJBvvywvPrvJnfJuX3kd6kNfwVlYqDeTWZvPhRjEeUjFHdEg/B U+yIl9MO6SAN1jfbt2QkJ138GjSPpdY7xAcw9A5U= Received: from outbound-bu1.vgs.untd.com (webmail02.vgs.untd.com [10.181.12.142]) by smtpout03.vgs.untd.com with SMTP id AABMU83AMAFC6DDS for (sender ); Sun, 8 May 2016 09:06:35 -0700 (PDT) Received: from [76.5.45.36] by webmail02.vgs.untd.com with HTTP: Sun, 8 May 2016 16:05:35 GMT Full-Name: "Phil Bacon" Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 16:05:35 GMT To: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] steering wheel quest From: Phil Bacon via Mgs Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net --===============2556060153202770439== ----__JWM__J3bde0504.7bbf2d02S.38bc40dbM Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: inline David.......if you like the looks of the banjo steering wheel, consider = using an early MG Midget wheel. It has two chrome spokes on the radial= s instead of three, is an inch or so smaller in diameter, and is virtual= ly indistinguishable from the original. I did this on my 67 GT and no o= ne notices the difference. The boss matches but you'll need to do some = shop mods on the original horn push button to make it work as well as cr= eate a threaded allen bolt hole to fasten it to the wheel. Moss has the= m, but be sure to get the early one...the later midget wheel boss won't = fit. Phil Bacon67 MGBGT72 TR6 = ---------- Original Message ---------- From: David Councill via Mgs < I have been restoring a 1964 MGB (my non-winter daily driver). It needed= a steering wheel when I brought it back to life several years ago after= it sat in the previous owner’s garage for about 30 years. So I pu= rchased the original style (banjo) steering wheel since I have never had= one in my many years of MG ownership plus I try to keep the cars fairly= original. What I did not realize is how big they are in diameter plus I= liked the feel of the smaller loaner steering wheel I had been using th= at belonged to my son. Having several MGBs, I determined my preferred st= eering wheel diameter to be 14”-15”, leaning more to 14&rdqu= o; (13” being too small). = =2E The Styla brand looks good if I can find one at a decent price. I ha= ve now located a “Superior Performance” steering wheel that = has promise but the boss is plain (no logo) and the seller is not sure i= t has the correct boss – and that could be a problem since I canno= t tell what kind of boss might work if I had to replace it. = David Councill64 MGB 67 MGBGT 72 MGB = ____________________________________________________________ Scribol.com 20 Female Celebrities Who Are Totally Different in Real Life http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/572f640b7dd69640b7108st03vuc ----__JWM__J3bde0504.7bbf2d02S.38bc40dbM Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: inline
David.......if you like the looks of the banjo steering wheel= , consider using an early MG= Midget wheel.  It has two chrome spokes on the  radial= s instead of three, is an inch or so smaller in diameter, and is virtual= ly indistinguishable from the original.  I did this on my 67 GT and= no one notices the difference.  The boss matches but you'll need t= o do some shop mods on the original horn push button to make it work as = well as create a threaded allen bolt hole to fasten it to the wheel.&nbs= p; Moss has them, but be sure to get the early one...the later midget wh= eel boss won't fit. 
Phil Bacon
67 MGBGT
72 TR6      

---------- Original Messag= e ----------
From: David Councill via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net> = <

I have been restoring a 1964 MGB (my non-winter d= aily driver). It needed a steering wheel when I brought it back to life = several years ago after it sat in the previous owner’s garage for = about 30 years. So I purchased the original style (banjo) steering wheel= since I have never had one in my many years of MG ownership plus I try = to keep the cars fairly original. What I did not realize is how big they= are in diameter plus I liked the feel of the smaller loaner steering wh= eel I had been using that belonged to my son. Having several MGBs, I det= ermined my preferred steering wheel diameter to be 14”-15”, = leaning more to 14” (13” being too small).

 

. The Styla brand looks good if I can find one at= a decent price. I have now located a “Superior Performance”= steering wheel that has promise but the boss is plain (no logo) and the= seller is not sure it has the correct boss – and that could be a = problem since I cannot tell what kind of boss might work if I had to rep= lace it.

 

David Councill

64 MGB

67 MGBGT

72 MGB

 



_____________________________= _______________________________
Scribol.com
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= http://thirdpartyoffe= rs.juno.com/TGL3132/572f640b7dd69640b7108st03vuc ----__JWM__J3bde0504.7bbf2d02S.38bc40dbM-- --===============2556060153202770439== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============2556060153202770439==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 8 20:45:31 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0011C2587734 for ; Sun, 8 May 2016 20:45:30 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from cdptpa-oedge-vip.email.rr.com (cdptpa-outbound-snat.email.rr.com [107.14.166.226]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C6EE92588B62 for ; Sun, 8 May 2016 15:10:59 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [173.170.144.91] ([173.170.144.91:55504] helo=[192.168.0.13]) by cdptpa-oedge03 (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 3.5.0.35861 r(Momo-dev:tip)) with ESMTP id FC/DA-04475-A5BAF275; Sun, 08 May 2016 21:10:50 +0000 Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 17:10:50 -0400 References: <007201d1a7a9$53b49430$fb1dbc90$@karamursel.org> To: David Councill Cc: MGList List Subject: Re: [Mgs] steering wheel quest From: "W. David Houser via Mgs" Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net --===============8692849991113889987== --Apple-Mail=_CE53ED8F-265E-4D5D-B5CD-8AFF06CBC2B7 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable charset=utf-8 Listers and David,=20 I love the =E2=80=9CPersona"l steering wheel that came with my 67 BGT = Special Edition! 14=E2=80=9D in diameter, a nice light wood color, 3 holed aluminum = spokes and the car is easy to park with it. Keep your eyes out for one=E2=80=A6 Cheers, Dave Houser Brooksville, FL =20 > On May 6, 2016, at 11:09 AM, David Councill via Mgs = wrote: >=20 > I have been restoring a 1964 MGB (my non-winter daily driver). It = needed a steering wheel when I brought it back to life several years ago = after it sat in the previous owner=E2=80=99s garage for about 30 years. = So I purchased the original style (banjo) steering wheel since I have = never had one in my many years of MG ownership plus I try to keep the = cars fairly original. What I did not realize is how big they are in = diameter plus I liked the feel of the smaller loaner steering wheel I = had been using that belonged to my son. Having several MGBs, I = determined my preferred steering wheel diameter to be 14=E2=80=9D-15=E2=80= =9D, leaning more to 14=E2=80=9D (13=E2=80=9D being too small). > =20 > So now I have been watching for steering wheels, preferably wood. = Although I have looked at the modern Moto-Lita and other variants, I = found a used steering wheel on Ebay, Styla brand, but it has a few = defects, comes with the entire column, and would cost about the same as = a new Moto-Lita for the whole thing. So now I have been focusing on a = period correct after-market wood steering wheel (14-15=E2=80=9D) as the = preferred option. But I can=E2=80=99t seem to find much information on = vintage steering wheels. There is the Les Leston brand but I haven=E2=80=99= t seen any for sale the past few months. The Styla brand looks good if I = can find one at a decent price. I have now located a =E2=80=9CSuperior = Performance=E2=80=9D steering wheel that has promise but the boss is = plain (no logo) and the seller is not sure it has the correct boss =E2=80=93= and that could be a problem since I cannot tell what kind of boss might = work if I had to replace it. > =20 > So I=E2=80=99ll ask the list what any of you might now of 1960s wood = steering wheels used on the MGB and any sources of such to help in my = search. > =20 > David Councill > 64 MGB > 67 MGBGT > 72 MGB > =20 > _______________________________________________ >=20 > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html = > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: = http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com = --Apple-Mail=_CE53ED8F-265E-4D5D-B5CD-8AFF06CBC2B7 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable charset=utf-8 Listers and David, 
I love the = =E2=80=9CPersona"l steering wheel that came with my 67 BGT Special = Edition!
14=E2=80=9D in diameter, a nice light wood = color, 3 holed aluminum spokes and the car is easy to park with = it.
Keep your eyes out for one=E2=80=A6
Cheers,
Dave Houser
Brooksville, FL
 
On = May 6, 2016, at 11:09 AM, David Councill via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net> = wrote:

I have = been restoring a 1964 MGB (my non-winter daily driver). It needed a = steering wheel when I brought it back to life several years ago after it = sat in the previous owner=E2=80=99s garage for about 30 years. So I = purchased the original style (banjo) steering wheel since I have never = had one in my many years of MG ownership plus I try to keep the cars = fairly original. What I did not realize is how big they are in diameter = plus I liked the feel of the smaller loaner steering wheel I had been = using that belonged to my son. Having several MGBs, I determined my = preferred steering wheel diameter to be 14=E2=80=9D-15=E2=80=9D, leaning = more to 14=E2=80=9D (13=E2=80=9D being too small).
 
So now I = have been watching for steering wheels, preferably wood. Although I have = looked at the modern Moto-Lita and other variants, I found a used = steering wheel on Ebay, Styla brand, but it has a few defects, comes = with the entire column, and would cost about the same as a new Moto-Lita = for the whole thing. So now I have been focusing on a period correct = after-market wood steering wheel (14-15=E2=80=9D) as the preferred = option. But I can=E2=80=99t seem to find much information on vintage = steering wheels. There is the Les Leston brand but I haven=E2=80=99t = seen any for sale the past few months. The Styla brand looks good if I = can find one at a decent price. I have now located a =E2=80=9CSuperior = Performance=E2=80=9D steering wheel that has promise but the boss is = plain (no logo) and the seller is not sure it has the correct boss =E2=80=93= and that could be a problem since I cannot tell what kind of boss might = work if I had to replace it.
 
So I=E2=80=99ll ask the list what any = of you might now of 1960s wood steering wheels used on the MGB and any = sources of such to help in my search.
 
David Councill
64 = MGB
67 = MGBGT
72 = MGB
 
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.= com

= --Apple-Mail=_CE53ED8F-265E-4D5D-B5CD-8AFF06CBC2B7-- --===============8692849991113889987== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============8692849991113889987==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 21 06:38:20 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C129E2588EBF for ; Sat, 21 May 2016 06:38:20 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from know-smtprelay-omc-7.server.virginmedia.net (know-smtprelay-omc-7.server.virginmedia.net [80.0.253.71]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E89B22588F01 for ; Sat, 21 May 2016 06:15:46 -0600 (MDT) Received: from paul ([82.33.137.103]) by know-smtprelay-7-imp with bizsmtp id x0RF1s00g2E1rAA010RG8m; Sat, 21 May 2016 13:25:16 +0100 a=vmXdNlEzM4Y7U27AUxpCOw==:17 a=L9H7d07YOLsA:10 a=9cW_t1CCXrUA:10 a=s5jvgZ67dGcA:10 a=r77TgQKjGQsHNAKrUKIA:9 a=oo-j4OtfDx9SEKXikhYA:9 a=pILNOxqGKmIA:10 a=hNfyZ7oEY7cvgyWbzz0A:9 a=_W_S_7VecoQA:10 To: "V8 list" , , Date: Sat, 21 May 2016 13:25:16 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] MGB 14W wiper motor From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --===============6540243379249205352== boundary="----=_NextPart_000_004E_01D1B364.36BC59F0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004E_01D1B364.36BC59F0 charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Anyone changed the brush set on the 2-speed type? I've had the same problem on two separate motors - when the motor casing = is tightened up to the gearbox casing the armature binds very badly, = I've had to put a small washer in one particular place to angle the two = casings slightly. With the second one I even refitted the old brush set and it ran just = fine (the brushes ARE well worn and the motor has become very reluctant = to get going after not being used for some time), but with the new one = refitted it was binding again. Also comparing the old and new brush sets although there is obviously = significantly more carbon on the new compared to the old, the springs = don't push the backs of the brushes to anywhere near the position of the = old brushes, which means that although the business end of the new = brushes do stick out further than the old brushes, it is only just = further, so they won't wear very much at all before they fail to make = contact. PaulH. ------=_NextPart_000_004E_01D1B364.36BC59F0 charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Anyone=20 changed the brush set on the 2-speed type?

I've=20 had the same problem on two separate motors - when the motor casing is = tightened=20 up to the gearbox casing the armature binds very badly, I've had to put = a small=20 washer in one particular place to angle the two casings slightly.

With=20 the second one I even refitted the old brush set and it ran just fine = (the=20 brushes ARE well worn and the motor has become very reluctant to get = going after=20 not being used for some time), but with the new one refitted it was = binding=20 again.

Also=20 comparing the old and new brush sets although there is obviously = significantly=20 more carbon on the new compared to the old, the springs don't push the = backs of=20 the brushes to anywhere near the position of the old brushes, which = means that=20 although the business end of the new brushes do stick out further than = the old=20 brushes, it is only just further, so they won't wear very much at all = before=20 they fail to make contact.

 

PaulH.

------=_NextPart_000_004E_01D1B364.36BC59F0-- --===============6540243379249205352== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============6540243379249205352==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 24 15:56:17 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id BF60E2585B49 for ; Tue, 24 May 2016 15:56:17 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from cdptpa-oedge-vip.email.rr.com (cdptpa-outbound-snat.email.rr.com [107.14.166.232]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6159725875DF for ; Tue, 24 May 2016 13:34:02 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [173.170.144.91] ([173.170.144.91:50951] helo=[192.168.0.11]) by cdptpa-oedge01 (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 3.5.0.35861 r(Momo-dev:tip)) with ESMTP id D3/15-21441-CEEA4475; Tue, 24 May 2016 19:43:40 +0000 Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 15:43:40 -0400 To: MGList List Subject: [Mgs] TD running rough From: "W. David Houser via Mgs" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net TGlzdGVycywKSnVzdCBmaW5pc2hlZCByZWJ1aWxkaW5nIHRoZSAyIGNhcmIgamV0IGFzc2VtYmxp ZXMgb24gbXkgVEQgZHVlIHRvIGxlYWtpbmcgZnJvbSB0aGUgZmxvYXQgYm93bHMgYW5kIGJvdHRv bSBvZiBqZXRzIEkgaGF2ZSBNR0EgMS414oCdIGNhcmJzIG9uIHRoZXJlLgpQcmlvciB0byByZXBs YWNpbmcgdGhlIDQgZmxvYXQgYm93bCBncm9tbWV0cyBhbmQgamV0IG5lZWRsZSBzZWFscyBhbmQg dGhlIGNvcmsgbGlrZSB3YXNoZXIgdGhhdCBzY3Jld3MgaW50byB0aGUgY2FyYiBib2R5LCBjYXIg cmFuIGdyZWF0LiBOb3RoaW5nIGVsc2UgdG91Y2hlZC4gTmVlZGxlcyBhbmQgamV0cyB0aGUgc2Ft ZS4gUGlzdG9ucyByZS1jZW50ZXJlZCBhbmQgY2xpY2tpbmcgd2hlbiBsaWZ0ZWQgYW5kIHJlbGVh c2VkLiBDaG9rZSBub3Qgc3RpY2tpbmcgd2hlbiBwdXNoZWQgYmFjayBpbiwgamV0cyBjbG9zZSB1 cCBmaW5lLiBUb29rIG9mZiBmbG9hdCBib3dsIGNvdmVycyBhbmQgYm90aCBib3dscyBoYXZlIGdh cyB0byBwcm9wZXIgbGV2ZWwsIG5vIHN0dWNrIGxldmVycyBvciBuZWVkbGVzLgpXaGVuIGNhciBz dGFydGVkIGl0IG1pc2ZpcmVzIGFuZCBlbmdpbmUgc2hha2VzIGxpa2UgdG9vIGxlYW4uIEFmdGVy IGEgYml0IG9mIHRpbWUsIGVuZ2luZSBzdGFsbHMsIGRvZXNu4oCZdCBqdXN0IHF1aXQuIFRvbyBj b2luY2lkZW50YWwgdGhhdCBzb21ldGhpbmcgZWxlY3RyaWNhbCBtYXkgaGF2ZSBoYXBwZW5lZC4K QW55IHRob3VnaHRzPwpUSUEsCkRhdmUgSG91c2VyCgpfX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19f X19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fXwoKTWdzQGF1dG94LnRlYW0ubmV0CkRvbmF0ZTogaHR0cDov L3d3dy50ZWFtLm5ldC9kb25hdGUuaHRtbApTdWdnZXN0ZWQgYW5udWFsIGRvbmF0aW9uICAkMTIu NzUKQXJjaGl2ZTogaHR0cDovL3d3dy50ZWFtLm5ldC9hcmNoaXZlCkZvcnVtczogaHR0cDovL3d3 dy50ZWFtLm5ldC9mb3J1bXMKVW5zdWJzY3JpYmU6IGh0dHA6Ly9hdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldC9tYWls bWFuL29wdGlvbnMvbWdzL21oYXJjQGF1dG94LnRlYW0ubmV0Cg== From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 25 15:32:37 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id EDCB82589760 for ; Wed, 25 May 2016 15:32:36 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from omr-a013e.mx.aol.com (omr-a013e.mx.aol.com [204.29.186.60]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 78C5725894E3 for ; Wed, 25 May 2016 13:45:49 -0600 (MDT) Received: from mtaomg-mcb01.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-mcb01.mx.aol.com [172.26.50.175]) by omr-a013e.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id 0B7FD38005E5 for ; Wed, 25 May 2016 15:55:28 -0400 (EDT) Received: from core-mab04a.mail.aol.com (core-mab04.mail.aol.com [172.27.62.4]) by mtaomg-mcb01.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id C601D38000082 for ; Wed, 25 May 2016 15:55:27 -0400 (EDT) Received: from 173.77.146.170 by webprd-a36.mail.aol.com (10.72.96.223) with HTTP (WebMailUI); Wed, 25 May 2016 15:55:27 -0400 Date: Wed, 25 May 2016 15:55:27 -0400 To: mgs@autox.team.net References: x-aol-global-disposition: G s=20150623; t=1464206128; bh=DEiCBharOX/mZzzR2X/8o9rZCqgNxmG899ncrXMUX7o=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-Id:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=uO3iEqDMYzHZs2dtDoHEWzNkdQ+A0BLqqXVZE9yIKP7fKEdf1xpp5RgDIKvGm4KYY /dz4uNnWHXDkgRRqqLTf103qtnVbNvisqBh8U/AeOzj0hT6clhkXjLPkBo6AX3ux03 WcWLldwoDZ9QyqzQNmwhtAhV35/xo01Q6Z3wO39U= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1a32af5746032f780e Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 108, Issue 6 running rough From: laf48--- via Mgs Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net --===============0033149282446587636== boundary="----=_Part_98108_1481439995.1464206127607" ------=_Part_98108_1481439995.1464206127607 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Good afternoon Dave, did you adjust the jet height to .072" below the bridge, as a starting point? Len -----Original Message----- From: mgs-request To: mgs Sent: Wed, May 25, 2016 3:25 pm Subject: Mgs Digest, Vol 108, Issue 6 Send Mgs mailing list submissions to mgs@autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to mgs-request@autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at mgs-owner@autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..." Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Today's Topics: 1. TD running rough (W. David Houser) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 15:43:40 -0400 From: "W. David Houser" To: MGList List Subject: [Mgs] TD running rough Listers, Just finished rebuilding the 2 carb jet assemblies on my TD due to leaking from the float bowls and bottom of jets I have MGA 1.5? carbs on there. Prior to replacing the 4 float bowl grommets and jet needle seals and the cork like washer that screws into the carb body, car ran great. Nothing else touched. Needles and jets the same. Pistons re-centered and clicking when lifted and released. Choke not sticking when pushed back in, jets close up fine. Took off float bowl covers and both bowls have gas to proper level, no stuck levers or needles. When car started it misfires and engine shakes like too lean. After a bit of time, engine stalls, doesn?t just quit. Too coincidental that something electrical may have happened. Any thoughts? TIA, Dave Houser ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Mgs mailing list Mgs@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs ------------------------------ End of Mgs Digest, Vol 108, Issue 6 *********************************** ------=_Part_98108_1481439995.1464206127607 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Good afternoon Dave, did you adjust the jet height to .072" below the bridge, as a starting point?
Len


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-request <mgs-request@autox.team.net>
To: mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, May 25, 2016 3:25 pm
Subject: Mgs Digest, Vol 108, Issue 6

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Today's Topics:

1. TD running rough (W. David Houser)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 15:43:40 -0400
From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] TD running rough

Listers,
Just finished rebuilding the 2 carb jet assemblies on my TD due to leaking from the float bowls and bottom of jets I have MGA 1.5? carbs on there.
Prior to replacing the 4 float bowl grommets and jet needle seals and the cork like washer that screws into the carb body, car ran great. Nothing else touched. Needles and jets the same. Pistons re-centered and clicking when lifted and released. Choke not sticking when pushed back in, jets close up fine. Took off float bowl covers and both bowls have gas to proper level, no stuck levers or needles.
When car started it misfires and engine shakes like too lean. After a bit of time, engine stalls, doesn?t just quit. Too coincidental that something electrical may have happened.
Any thoughts?
TIA,
Dave Houser



------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

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------------------------------

End of Mgs Digest, Vol 108, Issue 6
***********************************
 ------=_Part_98108_1481439995.1464206127607-- --===============0033149282446587636== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============0033149282446587636==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 25 17:00:14 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id AB9742589CA6 for ; Wed, 25 May 2016 17:00:14 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from c.mail.sonic.net (c.mail.sonic.net [64.142.111.80]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 58C7625876AD for ; Wed, 25 May 2016 15:37:52 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [192.168.1.109] (108-169-4-203.dynamic.dsl.sonic.net [108.169.4.203] (may be forged)) (authenticated bits=0) by c.mail.sonic.net (8.15.1/8.15.1) with ESMTPSA id u4PLlOuE030154 (version=TLSv1 cipher=DHE-RSA-AES128-SHA bits=128 verify=NOT) for ; Wed, 25 May 2016 14:47:24 -0700 Date: Wed, 25 May 2016 14:47:23 -0700 References: <154e97c71f9-748d-126d9@webprd-a36.mail.aol.com> To: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 108, Issue 6 running rough From: Max Heim via Mgs Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net --===============8674335396642737807== --Apple-Mail=_79B13CFF-6A2E-4149-A9A2-B47C0738176A Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable charset=us-ascii Yeah, it occurred to me that with replacing washers, the new ones might = have been thicker or thinner than the old ones. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Menlo Park, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires And now 67 MGB GHN3U137949G Old English White, off-premises for restoration > On May 25, 2016, at 12:55 PM, laf48--- via Mgs = wrote: >=20 > Good afternoon Dave, did you adjust the jet height to .072" below the = bridge, as a starting point? > Len >=20 >=20 > -----Original Message----- > From: mgs-request > To: mgs > Sent: Wed, May 25, 2016 3:25 pm > Subject: Mgs Digest, Vol 108, Issue 6 >=20 > Send Mgs mailing list submissions to >=20 > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs = > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to >=20 > You can reach the person managing the list at >=20 > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..." >=20 >=20 > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html = > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >=20 >=20 >=20 > Today's Topics: >=20 > 1. TD running rough (W. David Houser) >=20 >=20 > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >=20 > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 15:43:40 -0400 > From: "W. David Houser" Subject: [Mgs] TD running rough > Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Dutf-8 >=20 > Listers, > Just finished rebuilding the 2 carb jet assemblies on my TD due to = leaking from the float bowls and bottom of jets I have MGA 1.5? carbs on = there. > Prior to replacing the 4 float bowl grommets and jet needle seals and = the cork like washer that screws into the carb body, car ran great. = Nothing else touched. Needles and jets the same. Pistons re-centered and = clicking when lifted and released. Choke not sticking when pushed back = in, jets close up fine. Took off float bowl covers and both bowls have = gas to proper level, no stuck levers or needles. > When car started it misfires and engine shakes like too lean. After a = bit of time, engine stalls, doesn?t just quit. Too coincidental that = something electrical may have happened. > Any thoughts? > TIA, > Dave Houser >=20 >=20 >=20 > ------------------------------ >=20 > Subject: Digest Footer >=20 > _______________________________________________ > Mgs mailing list > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs = >=20 >=20 > ------------------------------ >=20 > End of Mgs Digest, Vol 108, Issue 6 > *********************************** > _______________________________________________ >=20 > Mgs@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: = http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@sonic.net --Apple-Mail=_79B13CFF-6A2E-4149-A9A2-B47C0738176A Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit charset=us-ascii
Yeah, it occurred to me that with replacing washers, the new ones might have been thicker or thinner than the old ones.


--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
And now 67 MGB GHN3U137949G
Old English White, off-premises for restoration

On May 25, 2016, at 12:55 PM, laf48--- via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net> wrote:

Good afternoon Dave, did you adjust the jet height to .072" below the bridge, as a starting point?
Len


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-request <mgs-request@autox.team.net>
To: mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, May 25, 2016 3:25 pm
Subject: Mgs Digest, Vol 108, Issue 6

Send Mgs mailing list submissions to
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Today's Topics:

1. TD running rough (W. David Houser)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 15:43:40 -0400
From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] TD running rough

Listers,
Just finished rebuilding the 2 carb jet assemblies on my TD due to leaking from the float bowls and bottom of jets I have MGA 1.5? carbs on there.
Prior to replacing the 4 float bowl grommets and jet needle seals and the cork like washer that screws into the carb body, car ran great. Nothing else touched. Needles and jets the same. Pistons re-centered and clicking when lifted and released. Choke not sticking when pushed back in, jets close up fine. Took off float bowl covers and both bowls have gas to proper level, no stuck levers or needles.
When car started it misfires and engine shakes like too lean. After a bit of time, engine stalls, doesn?t just quit. Too coincidental that something electrical may have happened.
Any thoughts?
TIA,
Dave Houser



------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

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Mgs mailing list
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs


------------------------------

End of Mgs Digest, Vol 108, Issue 6
***********************************
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--Apple-Mail=_79B13CFF-6A2E-4149-A9A2-B47C0738176A-- --===============8674335396642737807== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============8674335396642737807==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 29 07:27:02 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 73105258FC5A for ; Sun, 29 May 2016 07:27:02 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from cdptpa-oedge-vip.email.rr.com (cdptpa-outbound-snat.email.rr.com [107.14.166.232]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 450B625B02C9 for ; Sun, 29 May 2016 06:49:31 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [173.170.144.91] ([173.170.144.91:49784] helo=[192.168.0.11]) by cdptpa-oedge03 (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 3.5.0.35861 r(Momo-dev:tip)) with ESMTP id C3/08-18537-597EA475; Sun, 29 May 2016 12:59:02 +0000 Date: Sun, 29 May 2016 08:59:01 -0400 To: MGList List Subject: [Mgs] MGTD misfiring carbs From: "W. David Houser via Mgs" Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net --===============5875221747897246322== --Apple-Mail=_C1B81243-DF6C-4AC9-A33E-98A7D2EA2FE8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable charset=utf-8 Listers, Below is a link to a video I put up on Youtube showing how my TD engine = is running after just replacing the jet assembly gaskets and the float = bowl to carb body grommets on each carb. The carbs are MGA 1.5=E2=80=9D. = The car has been modified to MKII specs. The thing is it was running = great without the misfire before I changed the seals that were leaking. I centered the jets twice, got a sharp click when dropped, floats = getting gas, no stuck needles. I did not change the jets or needles that = were on the car and as I say was running well. Seems like it=E2=80=99s running a bit lean when you give the gas. The = jets are down 16 flats from the top, 2 full turns plus 4 additional = flats.=20 Any and all thoughts appreciated. Cheers, Dave Houser https://youtu.be/HOzMP5CUDuk = --Apple-Mail=_C1B81243-DF6C-4AC9-A33E-98A7D2EA2FE8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable charset=utf-8 Listers,
Below is a link to a video I put up = on Youtube showing how my TD engine is running after just replacing the = jet assembly gaskets and the float bowl to carb body grommets on each = carb. The carbs are MGA 1.5=E2=80=9D. The car has been modified to MKII = specs. The thing is it was running great without the misfire before I = changed the seals that were leaking.
I centered the jets = twice, got a sharp click when dropped, floats getting gas, no stuck = needles. I did not change the jets or needles that were on the car and = as I say was running well.
Seems like it=E2=80=99s = running a bit lean when you give the gas. The jets are down 16 flats = from the top, 2 full turns plus 4 additional flats. 
Any and all thoughts appreciated.
Cheers,
Dave Houser

https://youtu.be/HOzMP5CUDuk
= --Apple-Mail=_C1B81243-DF6C-4AC9-A33E-98A7D2EA2FE8-- --===============5875221747897246322== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============5875221747897246322==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 29 09:07:32 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 5648A25973ED for ; Sun, 29 May 2016 09:07:32 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from outbound-mail02.vgs.untd.com (outbound-mail02.vgs.untd.com [64.136.55.36]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with SMTP id C7DA325975E8 for ; Sun, 29 May 2016 08:34:57 -0600 (MDT) t=1464533073; bh=47DEQpj8HBSa+/TImW+5JCeuQeRkm5NMpJWZG3hSuFU=; l=0; h=From:Date:To:Cc:Subject:Message-Id:Content-Type; b=W4G2h9reNsfkGL9jpzmk8xQ9CuJB1BDOhkNibp6b+emyv5wGEjbv9FkHtVaYX/ADa bAqlib/oze4gK+vSeoMxVgEdyQToeQW5wAH3JckzXQS8UnO1ZPFWAm2VeaUiqDKCRP TxxYdcDJEYODqlCL1Eao6f7UUTOXkhrexBiL7w1A= Received: from outbound-mail.vgs.untd.com (webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com [10.181.12.102]) by smtpout01.vgs.untd.com with SMTP id AABMWYABZAMVYJG2 for (sender ); Sun, 29 May 2016 07:44:07 -0700 (PDT) Received: from [32.210.19.232] by webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com with HTTP: Sun, 29 May 2016 14:43:52 GMT Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" Date: Sun, 29 May 2016 14:43:52 GMT To: mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com Cc: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGTD misfiring carbs From: mgbob--- via Mgs Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net --===============8691750264164325956== ----__JWM__J7432dd96.2d031a3dS.44f5b37cM Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: inline Hi Dave, Just yesterday I experienced what seemed to be just the opposi= te problem-excess fuel. It seems that both the needles were sticking ope= n, so with engine off and igntion on, fuel was flowing up and out of jet= s, into the carbs. Could it be there there is obstruction in the fuel = flow _before_ it reaches the needle valves, causing intermittent restric= tion, or that the float level might have gone out of adjustment when the= lids were put back into place. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "W. David Houser via Mgs" To: MGList List Subject: [Mgs] MGTD misfiring carbs Date: Sun, 29 May 2016 08:59:01 -0400 Listers, Below is a link to a video I put up on Youtube showing how my TD engine = is running after just replacing the jet assembly gaskets and the float b= owl to carb body grommets on each carb. The carbs are MGA 1.5=E2€=9D= . The car has been modified to MKII specs. The thing is it was running g= reat without the misfire before I changed the seals that were leaking.I = centered the jets twice, got a sharp click when dropped, floats getting = gas, no stuck needles. I did not change the jets or needles that were on= the car and as I say was running well.Seems like it=E2€™s ru= nning a bit lean when you give the gas. The jets are down 16 flats from = the top, 2 full turns plus 4 additional flats. Any and all thoughts appr= eciated.Cheers,Dave Houser https://youtu.be/HOzMP5CUDuk ----__JWM__J7432dd96.2d031a3dS.44f5b37cM Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: inline
Hi Dave,
  Just yesterday I experienced what s= eemed to be just the opposite problem-excess fuel. It seems that both th= e needles were sticking open, so with engine off and igntion on, fuel wa= s flowing up and out of jets, into the carbs. 
  Cou= ld it be there there is obstruction in the fuel flow _before_ it reaches= the needle valves, causing intermittent restriction, or that the float = level might have gone out of adjustment when the lids were put back into= place. 
Bob


---------- Original Messag= e ----------
From: "W. David Houser via Mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net&g= t;
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] MGTD = misfiring carbs
Date: Sun, 29 May 2016 08:59:01 -0400

Listers,=

Below is a link to a video I put up on Youtube showing how my T= D engine is running after just replacing the jet assembly gaskets and th= e float bowl to carb body grommets on each carb. The carbs are MGA 1.5&a= circ;€=9D. The car has been modified to MKII specs. The thing is it= was running great without the misfire before I changed the seals that w= ere leaking.
I centered the jets twice, got a sharp click when dropp= ed, floats getting gas, no stuck needles. I did not change the jets or n= eedles that were on the car and as I say was running well.
See= ms like it’s running a bit lean when you give the gas= . The jets are down 16 flats from the top, 2 full turns plus 4 additiona= l flats. 
Any and all thoughts appreciated.
Che= ers,
Dave Houser
 
----__JWM__J7432dd96.2d031a3dS.44f5b37cM-- --===============8691750264164325956== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============8691750264164325956==-- From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 29 10:11:10 2016 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 7C08B259E305 for ; Sun, 29 May 2016 10:11:10 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mgs@autox.team.net Received: from qproxy5-pub.mail.unifiedlayer.com (qproxy5-pub.mail.unifiedlayer.com [69.89.21.30]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with SMTP id 14AFE259D638 for ; Sun, 29 May 2016 09:00:00 -0600 (MDT) Received: (qmail 14545 invoked by uid 0); 29 May 2016 15:09:36 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO CMOut01) (10.0.90.82) by qproxy5.mail.unifiedlayer.com with SMTP; 29 May 2016 15:09:36 -0000 Received: from box522.bluehost.com ([74.220.219.122]) by CMOut01 with id 0F4Y1t0062f2jeq01F4bEb; Sun, 29 May 2016 09:04:35 -0600 a=GsOEXm/OWkKvwdLVJsfwcA==:117 a=GsOEXm/OWkKvwdLVJsfwcA==:17 a=L9H7d07YOLsA:10 a=9cW_t1CCXrUA:10 a=s5jvgZ67dGcA:10 a=PH27ZC4J-VgA:10 a=MduDugt_HLUA:10 a=yrkiwgmsf1kA:10 a=zo8hvysWAAAA:8 a=jJrOw3FHAAAA:8 a=mdUxR-nBttm84LU4wgMA:9 a=wPNLvfGTeEIA:10 a=AkVOiukAp7gA:10 a=-FEs8UIgK8oA:10 a=NWVoK91CQyQA:10 a=yNGAgrHkgzXffoxlZGQA:9 a=9JqOkSbNPgo74tCh:21 a=_W_S_7VecoQA:10 a=hpSqStiEF4MlayOYDisI:22 a=lsIkP6lG2H4f0j7eDx0G:22 ; s=default; h=Content-Type:Mime-Version:References:In-Reply-To:Subject:From: To:Date; bh=ilexvshfxrSbvFLCGTlT+UdJIAENDr5f71vLE/JIaGg=; b=I1Pg2edMMHAiS3ZBp 8O334zhyz1DcMlS8HT3Kjyiqr+i0GfBnisX37NxJfTWSl2fJMQK8no6q5YF+EyVq39fkmF/K1q3C5 9YrhELtLp3AwlSC4+5x6Sgzz8UsdnG0bnP; Received: from [64.134.60.165] (port=52364 helo=BarneysPC.mgaguru.com) by box522.bluehost.com with esmtpa (Exim 4.86_2) (envelope-from ) id 1b72GX-00089F-5D; Sun, 29 May 2016 09:04:33 -0600 Date: Sun, 29 May 2016 11:04:27 -0400 To: "W. David Houser" , MGList List References: <7167E0CD-3191-41FB-A431-2BE987FD5694@tampabay.rr.com> {sentby:smtp auth 64.134.60.165 authed with barneymg@mgaguru.com} please include it with any abuse report Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGTD misfiring carbs From: Barney Gaylord via Mgs Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net --===============2094001098722239664== boundary="=====================_235709015==.ALT" --=====================_235709015==.ALT Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dave, Yes, it sounds lean on accelleration. Lack of=20 oil in the dashpot dampers will do that. Have=20 you tried running it under load? Does it pull=20 okay with load and constant throttle? What's your location? Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://MGAguru.com At 08:59 AM 5/29/2016 -0400, W. David Houser via Mgs wrote: >.... >Below is a link to a video I put up on Youtube=20 >showing how my TD engine is running after just=20 >replacing the jet assembly gaskets and the float=20 >bowl to carb body grommets on each carb. The=20 >carbs are MGA 1.5=E2=80=9D. The car has been modified=20 >to MKII specs. The thing is it was running great=20 >without the misfire before I changed the seals that were leaking. >I centered the jets twice, got a sharp click=20 >when dropped, floats getting gas, no stuck=20 >needles. I did not change the jets or needles=20 >that were on the car and as I say was running well. >Seems like it=E2=80=99s running a bit lean when you=20 >give the gas. The jets are down 16 flats from=20 >the top, 2 full turns plus 4 additional flats. >.... >https://youtu.be/HOzMP5CU --=====================_235709015==.ALT Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dave,

Yes, it sounds lean on accelleration.  Lack of oil in the dashpot dampers will do that.  Have you tried running it under load?  Does it pull okay with load and constant throttle?  What's your location?

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com

At 08:59 AM 5/29/2016 -0400, W. David Houser via Mgs wrote:
....
Below is a link to a video I put up on Youtube showing how my TD engine is running after just replacing the jet assembly gaskets and the float bowl to carb body grommets on each carb. The carbs are MGA 1.5=E2=80=9D. The car has been modified to MKII specs. The thing is it was running great without the misfire before I changed the seals that were leaking.
I centered the jets twice, got a sharp click when dropped, floats getting gas, no stuck needles. I did not change the jets or needles that were on the car and as I say was running well.
Seems like it=E2=80=99s running a bit lean when you give the gas. The jets a= re down 16 flats from the top, 2 full turns plus 4 additional flats.
....
https://youtu.be/HOzMP5CU
--=====================_235709015==.ALT-- --===============2094001098722239664== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net --===============2094001098722239664==--