Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA front suspension interrogatory

From: Eric J Russell via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2015 20:58:28 -0400

> > http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29224
> > Referring to the sketch from Moss Motors:

> I still don't know how tight to make the hub nut.

Do you mean #43? The MG is not like an American car - the combination of 
spacer # 37, the inner bearing, spacer # 40, the outer bearing, and washer 
#42 are supposed to be tight when the nut is installed. The innermost spacer 
(#37) has to be installed the right way around. (the spacer #40's fit is 
obvious - it'll only go in one way) See figure K2 in section K of the 
workshop manual (link below) for a cut-away view of the assembled hub. So, 
the hub nut it tightened 'tight' and if needed, tightened a little more to 
allow insertion of the cotter pin. Note that the spindle is drilled in two 
places for the cotter pin - vertically & horizontally. If the cotter does 
not fit in one place, try the other. If one doesn't align, the other should 
be very close so the nut would only need a slight bit of movement to put the 
pin in.

The MGA TwinCam & Deluxe has a slightly different assembly that uses shims 
to adjust bearing play.

> In addition, the book calls for 80/90 weight oil for lubrication of the
> swivels and pin.

What book & where does it say that?

The MGA Workshop Manual is available here:
http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/wsm.htm

> Ps: come one, come all. Certainly there is more knowledge out there. Speak
> up for the betterment of all...

Don't trust me, eh? ...J/K...

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC 

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From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2015 18:46:19 -0700

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric J Russell [mailto:[email-masked]]
> Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2015 5:58 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Cc: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA front suspension interrogatory
> 
> > >
obvious
> - it'll only go in one way) See figure K2 in section K of the workshop
manual
> (link below) for a cut-away view of the assembled hub. So, the hub nut it
> tightened 'tight' and if needed, tightened a little more to allow
insertion of
> the cotter pin. Note that the spindle is drilled in two places for the
cotter pin -
> vertically & horizontally. If the cotter does not fit in one place, try
the other.
> If one doesn't align, the other should be very close so the nut would only
> need a slight bit of movement to put the pin in.

Dude, 43? I'm thinking 41. I'm not talking about any studs here:<))
Sorry, I am in the KK's, I have a 1600 mkII with wire wheels which makes the
nut number 14 on page KK.3. For my spindles, I only have a single hole for
the cotter pin to go into. I know the inner spacer needs to be tight to the
two bearings, if I am too tight the bearings wear, if too loose the three
parts don't properly lock up and bearing start to wear wobbly in their hub
locations which happened thanks to the PO.  So tight plus a turn for the
cotter it sounds like.

> What book & where does it say that?

Check out P section in the manual. It tells us to put 80/90 in the swivels
and 30 weight in the engine:<))

> http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/wsm.htm

Thanks Barney!!!!!!!!

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From: Eric J Russell via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2015 22:14:56 -0400

> nut number 14 on page KK.3.

Dude?!? I am not a dude...

I also have a 1600, MK1. Unless you have a Deluxe or TwinCam the front 
suspension/hub bearings are the same.

The #43 I am referring to is in the Moss Motors parts diagram. #41 is the 
same item in the MGA workshop manual page K2.

> I know the inner spacer needs to be tight to the

If the bearings are not a tight (very tight) fit into the hub then the hub 
is worn. The shop manual advises to NOT remove the bearings unneccesarily as 
this wears the hub's machined surface and then the bearings no longer fit 
tight in the hub. Replacement of the hub is the fix. It might be possible to 
use a Locktite product to glue the outer race in place. Google Locktite 
Bearing Mount.

> and 30 weight in the engine:<))

That refers to the steering rack, not the swivel links/kingpins. It is a bit 
confusing - see the workshop manual; figure P.1 section P.2 "Steering Gear 
(C)". The "C" refers to the chart of lubricants - item C is grease.

Section P.4 "Steering Gearbox (B)" is indeed hypoid oil for the steering 
rack.

See "Lubrication Chart" 
http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/wsm/wsm_t_lube_chart.pdf

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC 

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From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2015 15:32:41 +0100

Haven't we been here before?  With the 1600 Mk1 being different with ball 
race bearings compared to later models with tapered rollers?

----- Original Message ----- 
>> Sorry, I am in the KK's, I have a 1600 mkII with wire wheels which makes
>

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