Subject: [Mgs] Your Experiences, Comments, Suggestions

From: Ron King via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 08:03:04 -0800

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Started back on the restoration (mostly) of my '71 MGB, and am working my
way from back to front.

The rear suspension needs to be rebuilt: springs, shocks, brakes and lines,
rear end, and some misc.   Understand the following are the recommended ways
to go:

*         Springs - send to John Twist to have them re-arced

*         Shocks - Isn't it Apple Hydraulics?

*         Brakes and lines - believe someone once recommended a place to
have the drums turned and shoes arced, but can't remember who it was.
Anybody?  Once pre-work done, I'll complete the job myself.

*         Rear end - "On the Road Again" is estimating ~$550 to replace all
the bearings, gaskets, seal, thrust washers, and re-setup the pinion/ring
gear: $~300 for labor and ~$250 for parts.  Looking at the Moss catalog
indicates the parts pricing is not that far off.  I'll be removing the
entire rear axle assembly and taking the unit to them.  This will be my
first experience with that shop, so any comments from others who've also
used them would be appreciated.

*         Misc - re-bound straps, poly bushings, emergency brake cables and
linkage, etc.   Will do the work myself

Any recommendations, comments, suggestions, etc. would be greatly
appreciated.   Yeah, I know, take lots and lots of pictures!

Thanks in advance

Ron King

'71 MGB

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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Started back on the restoration (mostly) of my =
&#8217;71 MGB, and am working my way from back to =
front.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>The rear suspension needs to be rebuilt: springs, =
shocks, brakes and lines, rear end, and some misc.&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Understand the following are the recommended ways to =
go:<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo2'><![if =
!supportLists]><span style=3D'font-family:Symbol'><span =
style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>&middot;<span style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New =
Roman"'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</span></span></span><![endif]>Springs &#8211; send to John Twist to =
have them re-arced<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo2'><![if =
!supportLists]><span style=3D'font-family:Symbol'><span =
style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>&middot;<span style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New =
Roman"'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</span></span></span><![endif]>Shocks &#8211; Isn&#8217;t it Apple =
Hydraulics?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo2'><![if =
!supportLists]><span style=3D'font-family:Symbol'><span =
style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>&middot;<span style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New =
Roman"'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</span></span></span><![endif]>Brakes and lines &#8211; believe someone =
once recommended a place to have the drums turned and shoes arced, but =
can&#8217;t remember who it was.&nbsp; Anybody?&nbsp; Once pre-work =
done, I&#8217;ll complete the job myself.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoListParagraph style=3D'text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo2'><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D'font-family:Symbol'><span =
style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>&middot;<span style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New =
Roman"'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</span></span></span><![endif]>Rear end &#8211; &#8220;On the Road =
Again&#8221; is estimating ~$550 to replace all the bearings, gaskets, =
seal, thrust washers, and re-setup the pinion/ring gear: $~300 for labor =
and ~$250 for parts.&nbsp; Looking at the Moss catalog indicates the =
parts pricing is not that far off.&nbsp; I&#8217;ll be removing the =
entire rear axle assembly and taking the unit to them.&nbsp; This will =
be my first experience with that shop, so any comments from others =
who&#8217;ve also used them would be appreciated.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoListParagraph style=3D'text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo2'><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D'font-family:Symbol'><span =
style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>&middot;<span style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New =
Roman"'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</span></span></span><![endif]>Misc &#8211; re-bound straps, poly =
bushings, emergency brake cables and linkage, etc.&nbsp;&nbsp; Will do =
the work myself<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Any =
recommendations, comments, suggestions, etc. would be greatly =
appreciated.&nbsp;&nbsp; Yeah, I know, take lots and lots of =
pictures!<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks in advance<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Ron King<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>&#8217;71 =
MGB<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/[email-masked]

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From: mgbob--- via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 16:27:16 GMT

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Hi Ron,  It is a good time of the year to start this project.  Where I a=
m, in CT, no shops seem to want to re-arch. I have heard good things abo=
ut John Twist's work.  World Wide Automotive, Peter Caldwell, is preferr=
ed by most in our club.  Be sure you need to turn drums-metal removed ca=
n not be replaced, and small ridges are not problems. If drums are score=
d, turning may be needed, but don't rush to do this unless needed.    We=
 have done this axle work at club tech sessions. This price seems fair e=
nough, though. In another 60,000 miles or so, you will find that thrust =
washer R&R is easily done oneself.
  Many prefer the nylon strap rebound straps to rubber. They were not av=
ailable last time I replaced, but I will try them next time.   Poly bush=
ings are a nice improvement. Moss used to caution, and may still, that t=
hey add to noise in the cabin. I used them and found no difference insid=
e my GT.   Emergency brake cables etc--take plenty of pictures, and be s=
ure to compare to the workshop manuals.  These are frequently found scra=
mbled, and I have even seen a car where rear brakes were installed on th=
e wrong side. If the cable moves as smooth as new, OK to use again, but =
if in doubt, buy new, grease it and grease it again before installation.=
  It works far better than its reputation, when installed, adjusted and =
maintained. Watch the linkage carefully--the bits are similar in appeara=
nce and easy to get wrong. If they are found to be correct when you disa=
ssemble, you might prick-punch mark them instead of using paint pen or m=
arkers.  Enjoy the project.Bob
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Ron King via Mgs <[email-masked]>

Started back on the restoration (mostly) of my &rsquo;71 MGB, and am wor=
king my way from back to front.
 =

The rear suspension needs to be rebuilt: springs, shocks, brakes and lin=
es, rear end, and some misc.   Understand the following are the recommen=
ded ways to go:
<![if !supportLists]>=B7         <![endif]>Springs &ndash; send to John =
Twist to have them re-arced
<![if !supportLists]>=B7         <![endif]>Shocks &ndash; Isn&rsquo;t it=
 Apple Hydraulics?
<![if !supportLists]>=B7         <![endif]>Brakes and lines &ndash; beli=
eve someone once recommended a place to have the drums turned and shoes =
arced, but can&rsquo;t remember who it was.  Anybody?  Once pre-work don=
e, I&rsquo;ll complete the job myself.
<![if !supportLists]>=B7         <![endif]>Rear end &ndash; &ldquo;On th=
e Road Again&rdquo; is estimating ~$550 to replace all the bearings, gas=
kets, seal, thrust washers, and re-setup the pinion/ring gear: $~300 for=
 labor and ~$250 for parts.  Looking at the Moss catalog indicates the p=
arts pricing is not that far off.  I&rsquo;ll be removing the entire rea=
r axle assembly and taking the unit to them.  This will be my first expe=
rience with that shop, so any comments from others who&rsquo;ve also use=
d them would be appreciated.
<![if !supportLists]>=B7         <![endif]>Misc &ndash; re-bound straps,=
 poly bushings, emergency brake cables and linkage, etc.   Will do the w=
ork myself
 =

Any recommendations, comments, suggestions, etc. would be greatly apprec=
iated.   Yeah, I know, take lots and lots of pictures!
 =

Thanks in advance
Ron King
&rsquo;71 MGB

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<html><div>Hi Ron,</div><div>&nbsp; It is a good time of the year to sta=
rt this project.</div><div>&nbsp; Where I am, in CT, no shops seem to wa=
nt to re-arch. I have heard good things about John Twist's work.</div><d=
iv>&nbsp; World Wide Automotive, Peter Caldwell, is preferred by most in=
 our club.</div><div>&nbsp; Be sure you need to turn drums-metal removed=
 can not be replaced, and small ridges are not problems. If drums are sc=
ored, turning may be needed, but don't rush to do this unless needed. &n=
bsp;</div><div>&nbsp; We have done this axle work at club tech sessions.=
 This price seems fair enough, though. In another 60,000 miles or so, yo=
u will find that thrust washer R&amp;R is easily done oneself.<br>&nbsp;=
 Many prefer the nylon strap rebound straps to rubber. They were not ava=
ilable last time I replaced, but I will try them next time.&nbsp;</div><=
div>&nbsp; Poly bushings are a nice improvement. Moss used to caution, a=
nd may still, that they add to noise in the cabin. I used them and found=
 no difference inside my GT.&nbsp;</div><div>&nbsp; Emergency brake cabl=
es etc--take plenty of pictures, and be sure to compare to the workshop =
manuals. &nbsp;These are frequently found scrambled, and I have even see=
n a car where rear brakes were installed on the wrong side. If the cable=
 moves as smooth as new, OK to use again, but if in doubt, buy new, grea=
se it and grease it again before installation. &nbsp;It works far better=
 than its reputation, when installed, adjusted and maintained. Watch the=
 linkage carefully--the bits are similar in appearance and easy to get w=
rong. If they are found to be correct when you disassemble, you might pr=
ick-punch mark them instead of using paint pen or markers.</div><div>&nb=
sp; Enjoy the project.</div><div>Bob</div><div><br>---------- Original M=
essage ----------<br>From: Ron King via Mgs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<b=
r><br></p><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal">Started back on the restoration (mostly) of my &rsquo;71 MGB=
, and am working my way from back to front.</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">&n=
bsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">The rear suspension needs to be rebuilt: =
springs, shocks, brakes and lines, rear end, and some misc.&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Understand the following are the recommended ways to go:</p><p class=3D"=
MsoListParagraph" style=3D"text-indent: -.25in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2=
;">&lt;![if !supportLists]&gt;<span style=3D"font-family: Symbol;"><span=
 style=3D"mso-list: Ignore;">&middot;<span style=3D"font: 7.0pt 'Times N=
ew Roman';">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </span></sp=
an></span>&lt;![endif]&gt;Springs &ndash; send to John Twist to have the=
m re-arced</p><p class=3D"MsoListParagraph" style=3D"text-indent: -.25in=
; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2;">&lt;![if !supportLists]&gt;<span style=3D"f=
ont-family: Symbol;"><span style=3D"mso-list: Ignore;">&middot;<span sty=
le=3D"font: 7.0pt 'Times New Roman';">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp; </span></span></span>&lt;![endif]&gt;Shocks &ndash; Isn&r=
squo;t it Apple Hydraulics?</p><p class=3D"MsoListParagraph" style=3D"te=
xt-indent: -.25in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2;">&lt;![if !supportLists]&gt=
;<span style=3D"font-family: Symbol;"><span style=3D"mso-list: Ignore;">=
&middot;<span style=3D"font: 7.0pt 'Times New Roman';">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </span></span></span>&lt;![endif]&gt;Bra=
kes and lines &ndash; believe someone once recommended a place to have t=
he drums turned and shoes arced, but can&rsquo;t remember who it was.&nb=
sp; Anybody?&nbsp; Once pre-work done, I&rsquo;ll complete the job mysel=
f.</p><p class=3D"MsoListParagraph" style=3D"text-indent: -.25in; mso-li=
st: l0 level1 lfo2;">&lt;![if !supportLists]&gt;<span style=3D"font-fami=
ly: Symbol;"><span style=3D"mso-list: Ignore;">&middot;<span style=3D"fo=
nt: 7.0pt 'Times New Roman';">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp; </span></span></span>&lt;![endif]&gt;Rear end &ndash; &ldquo;On t=
he Road Again&rdquo; is estimating ~$550 to replace all the bearings, ga=
skets, seal, thrust washers, and re-setup the pinion/ring gear: $~300 fo=
r labor and ~$250 for parts.&nbsp; Looking at the Moss catalog indicates=
 the parts pricing is not that far off.&nbsp; I&rsquo;ll be removing the=
 entire rear axle assembly and taking the unit to them.&nbsp; This will =
be my first experience with that shop, so any comments from others who&r=
squo;ve also used them would be appreciated.</p><p class=3D"MsoListParag=
raph" style=3D"text-indent: -.25in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2;">&lt;![if =
!supportLists]&gt;<span style=3D"font-family: Symbol;"><span style=3D"ms=
o-list: Ignore;">&middot;<span style=3D"font: 7.0pt 'Times New Roman';">=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </span></span></span>&l=
t;![endif]&gt;Misc &ndash; re-bound straps, poly bushings, emergency bra=
ke cables and linkage, etc.&nbsp;&nbsp; Will do the work myself</p><p cl=
ass=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Any recommendations, =
comments, suggestions, etc. would be greatly appreciated.&nbsp;&nbsp; Ye=
ah, I know, take lots and lots of pictures!</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">&n=
bsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Thanks in advance</p><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l">Ron King</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">&rsquo;71 MGB</p></div></html>

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[email-masked]

--===============2546834929029939475==--

---

From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 16:38:16 -0000

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Springs - re-arching may not be enough.  The free curve is only one =
aspect, the temper or resilience in pounds per inch is the other and =
probably more important.  If they have lost their temper they will sag =
again quickly.  I take it you are in the USA, people have been =
complaining for years there that new springs are so over-arched or too =
stiff that even a fully-equipped car the rear is jacked up so high they =
couldn't get the rebound straps fitted without significant extra weight =
at the rear.  The springs on a fully fitted-out car should be almost =
flat, with the rear shackles angled backwards as they point downwards.

People seem to recommend Peter Caldwell for damper rebuilds.

Rebound straps - there have been problems with these, replacements not =
having the cord reinforcing of the originals and being little better =
than elastic bands, or simply snapping as soon as they are asked to take =
the weight of the axle.  I did hear Moss were obtaining reinforced ones =
and had a test rig to check them.  Alternatively Strapping Lad does them =
in webbing.

One source of rebuilt rear axles in the UK quotes =A3430/$660 so your =
$550 would seem good value.

Handbrake cables are different lengths for stud and centre-lock axles, =
but sometimes the labelling has got mixed up.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  Started back on the restoration (mostly) of my '71 MGB, and am working =
my way from back to front.

  ...

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<BODY lang=3DEN-US link=3D#0563c1 bgColor=3D#ffffff vLink=3D#954f72>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Springs - re-arching may not be enough.&nbsp; The =
free curve=20
is only one aspect, the temper or resilience in pounds per inch&nbsp;is =
the=20
other and probably more important.&nbsp; If they have lost their temper =
they=20
will sag again quickly.&nbsp; I take it you are in the USA, people have =
been=20
complaining for years there that new springs are so over-arched or too =
stiff=20
that even a fully-equipped car the rear is jacked up so high they =
couldn't get=20
the rebound straps fitted without significant extra weight at the =
rear.&nbsp;=20
The springs on a fully fitted-out car should be almost flat, with the =
rear=20
shackles&nbsp;angled backwards as they point downwards.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>People seem to recommend Peter Caldwell for damper=20
rebuilds.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Rebound straps - there have been problems with =
these,=20
replacements not having the cord reinforcing of the originals and being =
little=20
better than elastic bands, or simply snapping as soon as they are asked =
to take=20
the weight of the axle.&nbsp; I did hear Moss were obtaining reinforced =
ones and=20
had a test rig to check them.&nbsp; Alternatively Strapping Lad does =
them in=20
webbing.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>One source of rebuilt rear axles in the UK quotes =
=A3430/$660 so=20
your $550 would seem good value.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Handbrake cables are different lengths for stud and=20
centre-lock axles, but sometimes the labelling has got mixed =
up.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV class=3DWordSection1>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal>Started back on the restoration (mostly) of my =
=9271 MGB, and=20
  am working my way from back to front.<o:p></o:p></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><o:p><FONT size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>...</FONT></o:p></P><![if !supportLists]><![endif]><![if =
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!supportLists]><![endif]></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Eric J Russell via Mgs <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 20:38:27 -0500

>   Shocks?

Another vote for World Wide Imports - Peter Caldwell. Excellent 
communications, first rate service, stands behind his work.
http://www.nosimport.com/

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

[email-masked]