Subject: Re: [Mgs] 73 MGBGT Clutch

From: Andrew Lundgren <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2014 10:57:26 -0700

I did mine years ago, I put a borg and beck in, no complaints.

I don't recall now where I got it...
On Dec 10, 2014 10:18 AM, "Bernie Grabow" <[email-masked]> wrote:

> I need to replace the clutch in my 73 MGBGT.  Anyone have suggestions on
> what parts I should order and the best source considering quality and best
> value?  Thanks.
> Bernie
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From: Max Heim <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2014 10:54:20 -0800

Standard clutch, standard throwout bearing, no problems in 16 years.
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
And now GHN3U137949G
Old English White, and not going anywhere anytime soon

> On Dec 10, 2014, at 9:17 AM, Bernie Grabow <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/[email-masked]

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From: "PaulHunt73" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2014 08:31:10 -0000

Borg and Beck, worth paying a higher price for.  Standard carbon bearing, 
the roller bearing isn't worth it unless you habitually 'ride the clutch' 
i.e. drive with your foot on the clutch pedal.  Check the bearing doesn't 
have a roll-pin through the side to retain the carbon ring, they were around 
a few years ago and the carbon could break up in a few thousand miles 
(http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/rbearing.htm#1).  As far as other work goes I'd 
counsel caution, the more you do the more you disturb and the more you are 
likely to cause knock-on problems.  Check for wear in the release arm pivot 
bushes i.e. lateral play as that can cause misalignment between the release 
bearing and the cover plate, especially if you are changing because of 
release bearing problems.  Check the bolts on the first motion shaft oil 
seal cover plate and the gasket for leaks.  If there is oil from the rear 
crank seal then you will have to replace that as it will contaminate the 
clutch.  Make sure you get the friction plate the right way round, although 
in my experience it is blindingly obvious as the friction surface is nowhere 
near the flywheel when on wrong 
(http://www.paulhunt73.webspace.virginmedia.com/mgb-stuff/images/odr16.jpg). 
Be sure to use the grease with the clutch kit on the first motion shaft and 
splined drive of the friction plate, and the release bearing pivots, spread 
evenly, not in dollops.  If you haven't thought about it yet having done it 
both ways I would definitely advise removing the engine only, I found it far 
easier to get the engine correctly aligned on replacement with the gearbox 
firmly held by the car, than when both were on the ground.

PaulH.

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