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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Robert J. Guinness" <guinness@stclegal.com>, "MG List"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <50834EF6.4050806@stclegal.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 11:19:34 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

As the points weren't opening on the original distributor, that was the 
original problem.  You then fitted several distributors.  If you didn't 
remove the plug leads from either the plugs or the original cap (did you 
reuse that with each of the replacement distributors?) then the assembly of 
the rotor and the drive shaft of the original distributor was 180 degrees 
different to the others you tried.

Whether it is right now or not is another matter.  Static timing with the 
pulley mark by the appropriate pointer will show the points opening when 
No.1 *or* No.4 pistons are at TDC, but only one of those will be on its 
*compression* stroke.  You determine that by removing the plug from No.1 
cylinder, putting your thumb over the hole, and turning the engine until 
compression pushes your thumb off, then turn to TDC.  If the rotor is now 
pointing to about 2 o'clock, then either drive gear and distributor assembly 
are both correct, or both 180 degrees out.  If it's pointing to about 8 
o'clock then one or other is 180 degrees out.  Whether it is worth doing 
anything about it is another matter.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... Two sets of newly installed points would not open when fully
> adjusted out.  A club member suggested that the distributor bearing was
> wearing out. I took the 1800's original 25D distributor and base clamp
> and installed it.  ... I got used another DM2 with the same result.  I 
> installed a new Lucas 25D, same
> result. Then I switched the wires replacing #1 with #4 and # 2 and # 3
> figuring it was 180 out.  Bingo, it purred like a kitten.  Mystery.  How
> could the distributor drive gear get 180 out when I never touched it? 
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 10:58:08 2012
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To: "Mgs@autox.team.net" <Mgs@autox.team.net>, Spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Sweet!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I finally took the time to sit down and focus on the Team.Net archiving 
problem.
It seems to be working once again.  Click on the archive link and check 
it out.
There are still some problems, like the "prev" and "next" buttons, but 
the basic
functionality is there, the archives are getting updated every hour.   
It will be
a while before I get all the missing mail back in there, should be done 
sometime
during the week.

And feel free to click on the links for the Google ads, I could use a 
few pennies
and nickles for a celebratory beverage.  Maybe an Epic Spiral Jetty IPA 
or a some
of their Imperial Red...


mjb.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 11:58:36 2012
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Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 19:07:32 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery
Thread-Index: Ac2vMNRgWkwCzcaPA0+4rtml8e2AMg==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Because the DPO had put the drive gear in the wrong way, and "compensated"
by rearranging the plug wires. You didn't find this out until you tried a
different distributor.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 10/20/12 6:25 PM, Robert J. Guinness at guinness@stclegal.com wrote:

> I have an MGA 1600 with an MGB 1800 3 main engine and a DM2 distributor
> from the original 1600 engine.  It was missing badly when I parked it.
> Then I could not start it at all and had mammoth backfires out the
> tailpipe. Two sets of newly installed points would not open when fully
> adjusted out.  A club member suggested that the distributor bearing was
> wearing out. I took the 1800's original 25D distributor and base clamp
> and installed it.  Static timed it with the rotor pointing to the #1
> wire, but same result.  Getting good gas flow to carbs.  Compression all
> between 110 and 120.  Spark plugs had velvety black soot. I got used
> another DM2 with the same result.  I installed a new Lucas 25D, same
> result. Then I switched the wires replacing #1 with #4 and # 2 and # 3
> figuring it was 180 out.  Bingo, it purred like a kitten.  Mystery.  How
> could the distributor drive gear get 180 out when I never touched it?  I
> had replace the points twice before by taking the distributor out and
> static timing it with the rotor at the #1 plug.  I am flummoxed. Any clues?
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 15:21:42 2012
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 16:22:48 -0500
From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

There are three ways to get the distributor 180d out; the drive gear, 
the wires and the dog. Others have mentioned getting the drive gear out 
and making sure the #1 piston is on the COMPRESSION stroke. The other 
way it can happen is if someone rebuilt the distributor and got the 
drive dog back on 180 out. It's easy to do, but doesn't sound like 
that's the case for you.

Glenn
> Subject: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery
> Message-ID:<50834EF6.4050806@stclegal.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I have an MGA 1600 with an MGB 1800 3 main engine and a DM2 distributor
> from the original 1600 engine.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 00:54:58 2012
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 23:44:29 -0700
To: mgs@autox.team.net
From: Don <don@napanet.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Don Hayter interview and book
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

There is a new book out by Don Hayter, the designer of the MGB.  The 
publishing company did a short interview of him which is quite 
interesting for anyone who is a friend of the marque.  I haven't got 
a copy of the book, but will probably buy one being a great admirer 
of the MGB design.  I still remember the first time I saw a new '63 
MGB on display at a county fair when I was a lad and how impressed I 
was by its beautiful lines.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Don Hayter was educated at Abingdon School, Oxford, winning the 
Bennett Scholarship to Pembroke College. With the outbreak of WWII he 
decided to take an apprenticeship in aircraft design at the Pressed 
Steel Company, Cowley. Attending Oxford Technical College, and 
attaining a Higher National Certificate in Metallurgy and 
Engineering, he worked at various aircraft manufacturers, before 
moving into the car industry after the war. Working on many cars, 
including the MG Magnette, in 1954 he moved to Aston Martin, working 
on the design for the DB2/4 and the Lagonda, before moving back to 
MG's Design & Development department. Promoted to Chief Design & 
Development Engineer in 1973, he was responsible for the design of 
the MGB body, and stayed with MG until the closure of its factory in 
1980. Don remains passionately enthusiastic about this iconic car, 
and still runs one himself today.

link to interview:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rq7d7G1zQws

link to purchase the book:
http://www.veloce.co.uk/shop/products/productDetail.php?prod_id=V4460&prod_group=Cars%20Vans%20&%20Trucks&


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF
1962 MGA Mk 2
1967 MGB
1963-7 MGB (seeking)
Misc. Japanese cars
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 03:13:33 2012
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>, "Don" <don@napanet.net>
References: <mailman.1621.1350888417.32722.mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 09:41:57 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Don Hayter interview and book
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Me too.  Before I saw the MGB I wanted a Sunbeam Alpine.  Afterwards I never 
looked at another car in the same way, but it took me 25 years to get one, 
and that was 22 years ago.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  I still remember the first time I saw a new '63
> MGB on display at a county fair when I was a lad and how impressed I
> was by its beautiful lines.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 16:06:32 2012
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To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>, "Mgs@autox.team.net"
	<Mgs@autox.team.net>,Spridgets@autox.team.net
From: Barrie Robinson <barrie@look.ca>
References: <508429D8.904@bradakis.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Sweet!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark,

See if you can get a good English brew there - Wells IPA !!!

At 10:59 AM 10/21/2012 -0600, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>I finally took the time to sit down and focus on the Team.Net 
>archiving problem.
>It seems to be working once again.  Click on the archive link and 
>check it out.
>There are still some problems, like the "prev" and "next" buttons, 
>but the basic
>functionality is there, the archives are getting updated every hour.
>It will be
>a while before I get all the missing mail back in there, should be 
>done sometime
>during the week.
>
>And feel free to click on the links for the Google ads, I could use 
>a few pennies
>and nickles for a celebratory beverage.  Maybe an Epic Spiral Jetty 
>IPA or a some
>of their Imperial Red...
>
>
>mjb.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie@look.ca

Regards

Barrie
barrie@look.ca
705-721-9060 
_______________________________________________

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From: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 16:30:51 -0700
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Engine compartment progress
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I was about to start putting the motor back into Jasmine, my 69 BGT, and took
a slight detour to clean the engine compartment up.  I used catalyzed paint
and a preval canister for spraying. Now that I've done it, I know a lot better
how to do a good job, but it's not worth spending another week redoing the
paint in the engine compartment.

Here's the starting point:
http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631831705693/

Here it is this afternoon:
http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631831646349/

Here is the flickr collection of the various sets:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/collections/72157622346827887/

I think that I'm just about ready to set the motor in place, so that I can at
least start making sure I have room for everything, and that it is routed
cleanly.  I also need to start work on a new dashboard, one that is mounted to
the rollcage.  That may first involve repaininting the rollcage I'm afraid.
I'm trying to keep in mind that my goal on the aesthetics is not showcar, but
racecar.  50/50 would work, I'm going for 20/20.


--
Larry Colen lrc@red4est.com sent from i4est
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 17:56:54 2012
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From: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 16:34:53 -0700
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Rod & Spanner stained glass
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Back in college Paul Kile and I used to call our house the Rod & Spanner.  We
even had a crest for the house, which eventually being partial inspiration for
the SOL crest.  My girlfriend just commissioned someone to do the crest in
stained glass. I'm quite stoked.

Here's a picture:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/8101962183/in/set-72157631803581942

>From the set:
http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631803581942/

--
Larry Colen lrc@red4est.com sent from i4est
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 17:58:59 2012
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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <crk@godblessthe.us>
To: "'MG List'" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <50834EF6.4050806@stclegal.com>
	<E6273F7385A3435589E346C6DBACEB61@paul>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 16:40:37 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac2veNlJII99uFCdTc2Eg5uEBOUTjgBNGrvg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Correct me if I am wrong please, but it seems the only reason to set the
distributor up "right" with the rotor pointing to the 1st cylinder (1
oclock) is so that everybody does it the same way and nobody gets confused
like this. If the distributor is 180 degrees out, one only need change the
wires around. In fact, you could technically put the distributor in in any
orientation and as long as you get cyl 1 tdc on the compression stroke and
turn the distributor body to line up the rotor with the cyl 1 ignition wire
you would be ok. Of course, you may have problems with the vacuum advance
alignment but that is a different story. I think it basically comes down to
everybody agreeing to one convention like driving on the left side of the
road is wrong:>)

Clayton

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of PaulHunt73
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2012 3:20 AM
To: Robert J. Guinness; MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery

As the points weren't opening on the original distributor, that was the
original problem.  You then fitted several distributors.  If you didn't
remove the plug leads from either the plugs or the original cap (did you
reuse that with each of the replacement distributors?) then the assembly of
the rotor and the drive shaft of the original distributor was 180 degrees
different to the others you tried.

Whether it is right now or not is another matter.  Static timing with the
pulley mark by the appropriate pointer will show the points opening when
No.1 *or* No.4 pistons are at TDC, but only one of those will be on its
*compression* stroke.  You determine that by removing the plug from No.1
cylinder, putting your thumb over the hole, and turning the engine until
compression pushes your thumb off, then turn to TDC.  If the rotor is now
pointing to about 2 o'clock, then either drive gear and distributor assembly
are both correct, or both 180 degrees out.  If it's pointing to about 8
o'clock then one or other is 180 degrees out.  Whether it is worth doing
anything about it is another matter.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... Two sets of newly installed points would not open when fully 
> adjusted out.  A club member suggested that the distributor bearing 
> was wearing out. I took the 1800's original 25D distributor and base 
> clamp and installed it.  ... I got used another DM2 with the same 
> result.  I installed a new Lucas 25D, same result. Then I switched the 
> wires replacing #1 with #4 and # 2 and # 3 figuring it was 180 out.  
> Bingo, it purred like a kitten.  Mystery.  How could the distributor 
> drive gear get 180 out when I never touched it?
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 18:14:05 2012
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To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <443F951E-6F7C-4221-B988-2B209A289421@red4est.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Rod & Spanner stained glass
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Very nice!

mjb.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 18:56:17 2012
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 17:48:38 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Rod & Spanner stained glass
Thread-Index: Ac2wuCOEoszvsr428UOB9lH3/BUA0A==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Rod & Spanner stained glass
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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That's very cool!


on 10/22/12 4:34 PM, Larry Colen at lrc@red4est.com wrote:

> Back in college Paul Kile and I used to call our house the Rod & Spanner.  We
> even had a crest for the house, which eventually being partial inspiration for
> the SOL crest.  My girlfriend just commissioned someone to do the crest in
> stained glass. I'm quite stoked.
> 
> Here's a picture:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/8101962183/in/set-72157631803581942
> 
> From the set:
> http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631803581942/
> 
> --
> Larry Colen lrc@red4est.com sent from i4est
> _______________________________________________


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 18:56:33 2012
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 17:54:30 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery
Thread-Index: Ac2veNlJII99uFCdTc2Eg5uEBOUTjgBNGrvgAALsR7U=
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

It's the vacuum advance position. The limits to rotation are the starter,
the heater valve, and of course how much slack you have in the vacuum hose.
With the gear 180 degrees out, the vac advance knob will be in an awkward
position, and you may not be able to dial in all the advance you want
because the pot is hitting something.

I struggled with this for some time before finally sorting it out. There was
a reason for the factory orientation.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 10/22/12 4:40 PM, Clayton Kirkwood at crk@godblessthe.us wrote:

> Correct me if I am wrong please, but it seems the only reason to set the
> distributor up "right" with the rotor pointing to the 1st cylinder (1
> oclock) is so that everybody does it the same way and nobody gets confused
> like this. If the distributor is 180 degrees out, one only need change the
> wires around. In fact, you could technically put the distributor in in any
> orientation and as long as you get cyl 1 tdc on the compression stroke and
> turn the distributor body to line up the rotor with the cyl 1 ignition wire
> you would be ok. Of course, you may have problems with the vacuum advance
> alignment but that is a different story. I think it basically comes down to
> everybody agreeing to one convention like driving on the left side of the
> road is wrong:>)
> 
> Clayton
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of PaulHunt73
> Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2012 3:20 AM
> To: Robert J. Guinness; MG List
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery
> 
> As the points weren't opening on the original distributor, that was the
> original problem.  You then fitted several distributors.  If you didn't
> remove the plug leads from either the plugs or the original cap (did you
> reuse that with each of the replacement distributors?) then the assembly of
> the rotor and the drive shaft of the original distributor was 180 degrees
> different to the others you tried.
> 
> Whether it is right now or not is another matter.  Static timing with the
> pulley mark by the appropriate pointer will show the points opening when
> No.1 *or* No.4 pistons are at TDC, but only one of those will be on its
> *compression* stroke.  You determine that by removing the plug from No.1
> cylinder, putting your thumb over the hole, and turning the engine until
> compression pushes your thumb off, then turn to TDC.  If the rotor is now
> pointing to about 2 o'clock, then either drive gear and distributor assembly
> are both correct, or both 180 degrees out.  If it's pointing to about 8
> o'clock then one or other is 180 degrees out.  Whether it is worth doing
> anything about it is another matter.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> ... Two sets of newly installed points would not open when fully
>> adjusted out.  A club member suggested that the distributor bearing
>> was wearing out. I took the 1800's original 25D distributor and base
>> clamp and installed it.  ... I got used another DM2 with the same
>> result.  I installed a new Lucas 25D, same result. Then I switched the
>> wires replacing #1 with #4 and # 2 and # 3 figuring it was 180 out.
>> Bingo, it purred like a kitten.  Mystery.  How could the distributor
>> drive gear get 180 out when I never touched it?
_______________________________________________

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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: <crk@godblessthe.us>, "'MG List'" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <50834EF6.4050806@stclegal.com><E6273F7385A3435589E346C6DBACEB61@paul>
	<00af01cdb0ae$a550dab0$eff29010$@us>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 08:43:58 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Quite.  It's a convention.  As the distributor will only fully engage with 
the drive gear in one position it is only of use when changing caps ... or 
removing plug leads from cap and/or plugs ... or installing a different 
distributor ... Come to think of it that's quite a few 'only's, and a bit 
like 'What did the Romans do for us?'.

However with the distributor inserted and the drive dog engaged with the 
gear you can turn the body all you like but the rotor won't move.  That's 
why you have to move the leads round the cap if the distributor assembly or 
drive gear orientation aren't as they were when the engine last ran.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Correct me if I am wrong please, but it seems the only reason to set the
> distributor up "right" with the rotor pointing to the 1st cylinder (1
> oclock) is so that everybody does it the same way and nobody gets confused
> like this.

> ... turn the distributor body to line up the rotor with the cyl 1 ignition 
> wire 
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 03:56:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>, MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Rod & Spanner stained glass
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Love it, Larry!

Dan D
'76 B Driver
'65 B Project
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
To: MG
List <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 7:34 PM
Subject:
[Mgs] Rod & Spanner stained glass
 
Back in college Paul Kile and I used to
call our house the Rod & Spanner.  We
even had a crest for the house, which
eventually being partial inspiration for
the SOL crest.  My girlfriend just
commissioned someone to do the crest in
stained glass. I'm quite stoked.
Here's a picture:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/8101962183/in/set-72157631803581942
>From the set:
http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631803581942/

--
Larry
Colen lrc@red4est.com sent from i4est
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 06:00:30 2012
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From: "Stephen West-Fisher" <steve@coastaldatasystems.com>
To: "'MG List'" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <50834EF6.4050806@stclegal.com>
	<E6273F7385A3435589E346C6DBACEB61@paul>
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 07:47:27 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

You are probably correct in this application, but...
I would not generalize this to all engines. I seem to recall something about
the lobe timing being different on some engines, but I do not recall the
application just now. It may have been high performance air cooled engines
trying to control the heat so different timing per cylinder.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK
-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Clayton Kirkwood
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 7:41 PM
To: 'MG List'
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery

Correct me if I am wrong please, but it seems the only reason to set the
distributor up "right" with the rotor pointing to the 1st cylinder (1
oclock) is so that everybody does it the same way and nobody gets confused
like this. If the distributor is 180 degrees out, one only need change the
wires around. In fact, you could technically put the distributor in in any
orientation and as long as you get cyl 1 tdc on the compression stroke and
turn the distributor body to line up the rotor with the cyl 1 ignition wire
you would be ok. Of course, you may have problems with the vacuum advance
alignment but that is a different story. I think it basically comes down to
everybody agreeing to one convention like driving on the left side of the
road is wrong:>)

Clayton
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 05:41:03 -0700
To: Stephen West-Fisher <steve@coastaldatasystems.com>
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Air cooled VWs had different timing on the #3 cylinder. The oil cooler sat on
top of #3 so it naturally ran hotter.
By playing with the cam and ignition timing they tried to get it to create
less heat in that cylinder.
This is why AC VWs have such an odd sounding idle.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 23, 2012, at 4:47, "Stephen West-Fisher" <steve@coastaldatasystems.com>
wrote:

> You are probably correct in this application, but...
> I would not generalize this to all engines. I seem to recall something
about
> the lobe timing being different on some engines, but I do not recall the
> application just now.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 07:00:14 2012
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 08:52:50 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I was thinking VW, but I haven't worked on aircooled VWs since the early
'70s.
One that would come in was a dragster, around 200 hp that didn't have
anything installed if it didn't provide power. Including the cooling system.
It only had to run for a minute or two at a time :-)

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK


-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Ewald [mailto:richard.ewald@gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 8:41 AM
To: Stephen West-Fisher
Cc: MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 180 out Distributor Mystery

Air cooled VWs had different timing on the #3 cylinder. The oil cooler sat
on top of #3 so it naturally ran hotter. 
By playing with the cam and ignition timing they tried to get it to create
less heat in that cylinder. 
This is why AC VWs have such an odd sounding idle. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 23, 2012, at 4:47, "Stephen West-Fisher"
<steve@coastaldatasystems.com> wrote:

> You are probably correct in this application, but...
> I would not generalize this to all engines. I seem to recall something 
> about the lobe timing being different on some engines, but I do not 
> recall the application just now.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 24 12:42:21 2012
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From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "'Barrie Robinson'" <barrie@look.ca>, <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <E1TR3aV-00083A-Qt@theta.look.ca>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 20:33:25 +0200
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I wish I could rebuild a car a fast as this movie shows....

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens
Barrie Robinson
Verzonden: woensdag 24 oktober 2012 18:04
Aan: mgb-v8@autox.team.net; mgs@autox.team.net
Onderwerp: [Mgs] MGB

>This great !!
>
><http://youtu.be/7OJe-eTH9NE>http://youtu.be/7OJe-eTH9NE

Regards

Barrie
barrie@look.ca
705-721-9060 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 02:20:10 2012
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From: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 01:19:47 -0700
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good news:
http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631848931452/

Jasmine's motor is in place.

Bad news, the clutch doesn't seem to be connecting the transmission to the fly
wheel. When it first went in, moving the car back and forth, in gear, would
move the engine. But there was about a 1/2" gap between the engine and the
transmission. I put bolts through the holes to cinch it down, and it closed
the gap with little problem. Not loud sproings like I busted something, or
anything like that.

Maybe, if I can bleed the clutch lines, I can jiggle the throwout bearing and
get things to pop into place.
Even if not, there are a lot of basic "fitting things into place" tasks I can
do. The headers are a bit long and tend to hang to low, with the motor in
place like this I can take everything down to holiday muffler and see if they
can modify the headers so that they work.

There are also some questions about radiator placement, if I want to move it,
ducting cool air to the carb and so forth, which I don't need the car running,
but need the motor in place for.

The transmission is a Ford 5-speed, if that matters.  I did find the pilot
bushing, or rather bushings.  The aluminum piece and the bronze piece that
goes inside of it and is an interference fit.

--
Larry Colen lrc@red4est.com sent from i4est
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 06:26:19 2012
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To: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
References: <DDDC1D97-4EB9-4D4D-A4BF-7B393CF0911F@red4est.com>
Cc: Mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news
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The bad news is that if opening the bleed  valve on the slave cylinder 
doesn't let the throwout arm retract, the engine/gearbox probably need 
to come back out so that you can see why the clutch disengaged when you 
cinched the gearbox up to the engine.  Has this engine/gearbox combo 
worked before?

CR

On 10/25/2012 3:19 AM, Larry Colen wrote:
> Good news:
> http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631848931452/
>
> Jasmine's motor is in place.
>
> Bad news, the clutch doesn't seem to be connecting the transmission to the fly
> wheel. When it first went in, moving the car back and forth, in gear, would
> move the engine. But there was about a 1/2" gap between the engine and the
> transmission. I put bolts through the holes to cinch it down, and it closed
> the gap with little problem. Not loud sproings like I busted something, or
> anything like that.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 07:34:23 2012
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Larry Colen" <lrc@red4est.com>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <DDDC1D97-4EB9-4D4D-A4BF-7B393CF0911F@red4est.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 14:21:38 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Are you sure you don't have the friction plate the wrong way round?  The 
wrong way it is the projecting centre and damper springs that rest on the 
flywheel, not the friction material.  That also means the cover plate has to 
be bolted up quite a bit more that it should, which is normally about 1/4".

You certainly shouldn't have to pull the engine and bellhousing together 
with bolts, and unless you do all of them together or nearly so  you can 
damage things.  That said I don't know about a non-standard gearbox.

Air in the hydraulics won't prevent the rear wheels turning the engine - 
when it is in gear! - quite the opposite, you wouldn't be able to disengage 
the clutch when you push the pedal down.  You should be able to move the 
release arm sticking out of the bell housing back and fore, with a little 
pressure if there is no air in the hydraulics as it is then pushing excess 
fluid back into the master (watch it doesn't overflow).

It may be because the slave push-rod is too long for this gearbox, the 
piston has bottomed, which could explain why you had to pull the two halves 
together with bolts, also why the clutch is now disengaged.  If you can't 
push the pushrod any further back into the cylinder, and the release arm has 
no free play or movement, that could well be the case.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Bad news, the clutch doesn't seem to be connecting the transmission to the 
> fly
> wheel. 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 12:23:04 2012
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From: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 11:20:59 -0700
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch problem solved
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
> Date: October 25, 2012 5:23:20 AM PDT
> To: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
> Cc: Mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news
> Reply-To: ccrobins@ktc.com
>
> The bad news is that if opening the bleed  valve on the slave cylinder
doesn't let the throwout arm retract, the engine/gearbox probably need to come
back out so that you can see why the clutch disengaged when you cinched the
gearbox up to the engine.  Has this engine/gearbox combo worked before?

Yup, I put about 5,000 miles on it before having to take the motor apart.
Even used the same pressure plate and disk.

>
> CR
>
> On 10/25/2012 3:19 AM, Larry Colen wrote:
>> Good news:
>> http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631848931452/
>>
>> Jasmine's motor is in place.
>>
>> Bad news, the clutch doesn't seem to be connecting the transmission to the
fly
>> wheel. When it first went in, moving the car back and forth, in gear,
would
>> move the engine. But there was about a 1/2" gap between the engine and the
>> transmission. I put bolts through the holes to cinch it down, and it
closed
>> the gap with little problem. Not loud sproings like I busted something, or
>> anything like that.
>>
>>
>
>
Begin forwarded message:

> From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
> Date: October 25, 2012 6:21:38 AM PDT
> To: "Larry Colen" <lrc@red4est.com>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news
>
> Are you sure you don't have the friction plate the wrong way round?  The
wrong way it is the projecting centre and damper springs that rest on the
flywheel, not the friction material.  That also means the cover plate has to
be bolted up quite a bit more that it should, which is normally about 1/4".

Yes.  I'm sure.

>
> You certainly shouldn't have to pull the engine and bellhousing together
with bolts, and unless you do all of them together or nearly so  you can
damage things.  That said I don't know about a non-standard gearbox.
>
> Air in the hydraulics won't prevent the rear wheels turning the engine -
when it is in gear! - quite the opposite, you wouldn't be able to disengage
the clutch when you push the pedal down.  You should be able to move the
release arm sticking out of the bell housing back and fore, with a little
pressure if there is no air in the hydraulics as it is then pushing excess
fluid back into the master (watch it doesn't overflow).
>
> It may be because the slave push-rod is too long for this gearbox, the
piston has bottomed, which could explain why you had to pull the two halves
together with bolts, also why the clutch is now disengaged.  If you can't push
the pushrod any further back into the cylinder, and the release arm has no
free play or movement, that could well be the case.

This was about the closest.  The car sat for about 10 years, it seems that the
slave extended a bit, went dry and rusted in place.  I pulled the slave
cylinder and everything popped into place and worked fine.  This also
explained why it felt like I was pulling the bellhousing and engine together
against springs.


--
Larry Colen lrc@red4est.com sent from i4est
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 16:02:08 2012
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From: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>
To: "Mga List" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 17:57:52 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] brake fluid
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a 1957 MGA 1500 rst. I do not know what type of brake fluid that in in
my car. How can I check it?
Tom Gunderson
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 16:16:31 2012
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Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 15:17:05 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] brake fluid
Thread-Index: Ac2y/nbobA2jVdbFZUuNNB4UJyxWhw==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
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If you mean, is it glycol-based or silicone-based, I suppose you could
remove a sample, place it in a glass container, and drip some water into it.
If it is absorbed (if it mixes in when you stir it), it is glycol. If it
does the oil-and-water thing and refuses to mix, it is silicone.

Be aware I am proposing this out of my knowledge of chemical principles -- I
have never tried it with an actual sample.

I can't think of any way of distinguishing between DOT 3 and DOT 4 glycol
fluid, but it wouldn't really matter, if you just flushed and refilled.


on 10/25/12 2:57 PM, Tom Gunderson at thgun@comporium.net wrote:

> I have a 1957 MGA 1500 rst. I do not know what type of brake fluid that in in
> my car. How can I check it?
> Tom Gunderson


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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From: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>
To: "Mga List" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 18:27:44 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

The reason I want to know about my brake fluid is the master cylinder is low
and I need to put fluid in. Also after I drive the car for about 15 or 20
minutes the cluch seems to be slipping. I was wondering if low fluid level
could cause this. Maybe having lower preasure in the cluch line.
Tom
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From: Paul Root <ptrmgb@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 17:36:45 -0500
References: <C8C2E3536E1A4E07BC69E5E957C63D04@OwnerPC>
To: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>
Cc: Mga List <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] slipping cluch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Slipping would not be caused by low fluid.

Unless the fluid is low because it leaked into the clutch and soaked the
disc.

On Oct 25, 2012, at 5:27 PM, Tom Gunderson wrote:

> The reason I want to know about my brake fluid is the master cylinder is
low
> and I need to put fluid in. Also after I drive the car for about 15 or 20
> minutes the cluch seems to be slipping. I was wondering if low fluid level
> could cause this. Maybe having lower preasure in the cluch line.
> Tom
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 17:02:26 2012
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 22:56:31 GMT
To: thgun@comporium.net
Cc: Mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] slipping cluch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom,
   Loss of fluid from the clutch hydraulic system is unlikely to be the cause
of a slipping clutch.   All the plumbing is exterior to the clutch friction
surfaces. To check for leaks at the slave cylinder, peel back the rubber dust
boot. If fluid drips, you have found the leak.
   A slipping clutch, if caused by fluid leaking, is most likely to be oil
from rear main seal of the engine. Check that a split pin is loose in the hole
at the bottom of the clutch housing, so that oil inside can drip out.
    Another possibility is that the hose has started to deteriorate inside,
having formed a one way flapper valve from a bit of loose inner liner.  Test
for this is to see if slipping occurs right after gear change and does not
happen with full throttle a few seconds after the gear change. The time has
allowed fluid to get past the flapper valve and for the clutch to fully
engage.
    A slipping clutch may, alas, be worn out also.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>
To: "Mga List" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 18:27:44 -0400

The reason I want to know about my brake fluid is the master cylinder is low
and I need to put fluid in. Also after I drive the car for about 15 or 20
minutes the cluch seems to be slipping. I was wondering if low fluid level
could cause this. Maybe having lower preasure in the cluch line.
Tom
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 17:33:02 2012
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From: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>
To: "Mga List" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 19:28:25 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch
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Where can I find info to replace the cluch? 1957 MGA 1500 rst. Also I see that
my ignition lamp in the speedometer stays on and battery is low. This car sits
alot in the garage.
Tom Gunderson
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 23:49:21 GMT
To: thgun@comporium.net
Cc: Mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] slipping cluch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

  Workshop manual is a good place to start.
  Clutch replacement I pretty straightforward. Replace the entire assembly,
and throw out bearing, and the hose, and rebuild slave cylinder. It's all
accessible, ans engine, clutch and gearbox come out together.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>
To: "Mga List" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 19:28:25 -0400

Where can I find info to replace the cluch? 1957 MGA 1500 rst. Also I see
that
my ignition lamp in the speedometer stays on and battery is low. This car
sits
alot in the garage.
Tom Gunderson
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 19:57:03 2012
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Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 20:56:36 -0500
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Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
References: <A69CF349-92E2-4C26-9BEE-4A85C14CE224@red4est.com>
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch problem solved
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Are you saying that you took this engine and gearbox out of a car they 
had been running in and put them into another that had been sitting for 
10 years and you used the clutch slave cylinder from the car that had 
been sitting for 10 years without inspecting it?  Good grief!

CR
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 20:10:20 2012
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Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 21:06:07 -0500
To: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>, "Mga List"
  <Mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <C8C2E3536E1A4E07BC69E5E957C63D04@OwnerPC>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] slipping cluch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Low brake fluid will not cause slippage.  There is no way for fluid 
to get from a leaky slave cylinder into the clutch friction disc 
space inside the bellhousing.  If fluid in the master cylinder goes 
low enough to introduce air in the pipe, then the clutch will not release.

Worn out friction disc can cause slipping.  Oil on the friction disc 
can cause slipping.  Oil can come from leaking engine rear scroll 
seal or from leaking gearbox front scroll seal (or rubber seal on 
later models).  Since the gearbox uses engine oil, and it drips from 
the same point on bottom of bellhousing, it may be difficult to tell 
where the oil originates (unless you use different color oil in the gearbox).

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 06:27 PM 10/25/2012 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote:
>The reason I want to know about my brake fluid is the master 
>cylinder is low and I need to put fluid in. Also after I drive the 
>car for about 15 or 20 minutes the cluch seems to be slipping. I was 
>wondering if low fluid level could cause this. Maybe having lower 
>preasure in the cluch line.
>....
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From: dwoerpel@wi.net
Cc: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.13
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news
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Looks very nice Larry.

Listers:  I have a Bugeye and an
MGA 1500 and my firing order is 1-3-4-2 and I believe the MGB is
also.  Your distributor orientation looks correct (vacuum advance in
the 10 o'clock position) but your plug leads don't look correct.  I
think the #1 wire should be in the 1 o'clock position on the distributor
then going counter-clockwise, the #3 wire, then #4, then #2.
Please
correct me if I'm wrong.  Maybe your distributor drive is 180*
out??  Just something in the picture didn't look right and trying to
save you some trouble.

Anybody else??

Just butting
in....

Dave W.


> Good news:
>
http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631848931452/
> 
> Jasmine's motor is in place.
> 
> Bad
news, the clutch doesn't seem to be connecting the transmission to the
> fly
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<< On 10/25/2012 11:26 PM, dwoerpel@wi.net wrote:

.......but your plug leads don't look correct.  I think the #1 wire should be in the 1 o'clock position on the distributor then going counter-clockwise, the #3 wire, then #4, then #2. >>

Unless my eyes are SO shot from looking at a BMC Parts Catalogue with it's -10 point font print, all but # 3 are wrong, Dave <G> ! ! !

The way I see it (counter-clockwise):

Dist. # 1 goes to Plug # 2
Dist. # 4 goes to Plug # 1
Dist. # 3 goes to Plug # 3
Dist. # 2 goes to Plug # 4

BUT, dizzy DOES look incorrectly 'positioned' <G> ! ! !

Larry, Dave is correct in that #1 wire (cap) should be at 1:00 o'clock ! !
Yours looks to be at close to 3:00 o'clock ? ! ?

HOW did you put the dizzy "drive shaft" in ?????????

Have you turned to motor since you FIRST installed timing chain (with dots aligned<G>)???

GREAT lookin' job ! ! !   Question:  Can't tell for SURE, but are there rubber 'o' rings under
cyl. head nuts as visible in last picture ??  I tried to enlarge, but............<G> ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Larry Colen" <lrc@red4est.com>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <A69CF349-92E2-4C26-9BEE-4A85C14CE224@red4est.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 08:44:53 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch problem solved
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good to hear.  That was well rusted!

----- Original Message ----- 
> This was about the closest.  The car sat for about 10 years, it seems that 
> the
> slave extended a bit, went dry and rusted in place.  I pulled the slave
> cylinder and everything popped into place and worked fine.  This also
> explained why it felt like I was pulling the bellhousing and engine 
> together
> against springs.
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>, "Mga List"
  <Mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <C8C2E3536E1A4E07BC69E5E957C63D04@OwnerPC>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 09:13:53 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] slipping cluch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

There is no pressure in the hydraulics when the clutch pedal is released. 
However if anything *were* causing there to be pressure, then the clutch 
could slip.  Like brakes, the flex hose could be delaminating internally and 
acting as a one-way valve, holding pressure after the pedal is released.  If 
you pump the clutch with the engine hot, then open the bleed valve and get a 
spurt of fluid, then that is the likely cause.  OTOH it could simply be a 
worn clutch, which is also accompanied by a high biting point.  Slipping is 
usually evident on hard acceleration in 4th gear first, becoming more 
noticeable on lesser acceleration and lower gears as it wears more.  In my 
experience oil on the clutch cause grabbing, not slipping.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... Also after I drive the car for about 15 or 20
> minutes the cluch seems to be slipping. I was wondering if low fluid level
> could cause this. Maybe having lower preasure in the cluch line.
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Max Heim" <mvheim@sonic.net>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CCAF0871.403D8%mvheim@sonic.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 09:41:07 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

DOT3, 4 and 5.1 aka Super DOT4 are all glycol based and hence compatible, so 
you can just flush the old out when filling with the new. DOT5 is the odd 
one out being silicone and the two types must not be mixed, switching 
between these is not a trivial task.  I've never been able to understand why 
a development of glycol was given the designation DOT5.1, implying it was a 
development of silicone, and not DOT6.  Water mixes pretty-well instantly 
with glycol based, never had silicone to try.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I can't think of any way of distinguishing between DOT 3 and DOT 4 glycol
> fluid, but it wouldn't really matter, if you just flushed and refilled.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 26 09:36:40 2012
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 15:31:53 GMT
To: paulhunt73@virginmedia.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

   Silicone separates quite visibly.
Bob
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Max Heim" <mvheim@sonic.net>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 09:41:07 +0100

DOT3, 4 and 5.1 aka Super DOT4 are all glycol based and hence compatible, so
you can just flush the old out when filling with the new. DOT5 is the odd
one out being silicone and the two types must not be mixed, switching
between these is not a trivial task.  I've never been able to understand why
a development of glycol was given the designation DOT5.1, implying it was a
development of silicone, and not DOT6.  Water mixes pretty-well instantly
with glycol based, never had silicone to try.

PaulH.
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Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 09:03:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Breneman <david_breneman@yahoo.com>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--- On Thu, 10/25/12, Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net> wrote:

> If it is absorbed (if it mixes in when you stir it), it is
> glycol. If it
> does the oil-and-water thing and refuses to mix, it is
> silicone.
> 
> Be aware I am proposing this out of my knowledge of chemical
> principles -- I
> have never tried it with an actual sample.

While we're on the subject of brake fluid, what ever
happened to Girling brake fluid, anyway?  Why was it
pulled from the market?  Was it found to cause cancer
when given intravenously to adolescent manatees or
something?
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 26 17:50:36 2012
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Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 16:47:04 -0700
To: Mgs@autox.team.net
From: Don <don@napanet.net>
References: <C8C2E3536E1A4E07BC69E5E957C63D04@OwnerPC>
	<A4010BC46BCD43A8B0CD8FD1E6BC97E4@paul>
Subject: [Mgs] slipping cluch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Oil on the clutch always caused slipping in my experience.  Back when 
I was a young guy and my MGA had this problem, learned how to remove 
its engine because of this issue.  Once the disc has oil on it, it's 
not gonna work properly, will slip especially when in high gear and 
you step on the accelerator.


At 01:13 AM 10/26/2012, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>There is no pressure in the hydraulics when the clutch pedal is 
>released. However if anything *were* causing there to be pressure, 
>then the clutch could slip.  Like brakes, the flex hose could be 
>delaminating internally and acting as a one-way valve, holding 
>pressure after the pedal is released.  If you pump the clutch with 
>the engine hot, then open the bleed valve and get a spurt of fluid, 
>then that is the likely cause.  OTOH it could simply be a worn 
>clutch, which is also accompanied by a high biting point.  Slipping 
>is usually evident on hard acceleration in 4th gear first, becoming 
>more noticeable on lesser acceleration and lower gears as it wears 
>more.  In my experience oil on the clutch cause grabbing, not slipping.
>
>PaulH.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>>... Also after I drive the car for about 15 or 20
>>minutes the cluch seems to be slipping. I was wondering if low fluid level
>>could cause this. Maybe having lower preasure in the cluch line.
>_______________________________________________
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "David Breneman" <david_breneman@yahoo.com>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <1351267401.77462.YahooMailClassic@web163902.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 09:05:11 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Possibly better known under the Lucas name today - yes, Lucas brakes ...

----- Original Message ----- 
> While we're on the subject of brake fluid, what ever
> happened to Girling brake fluid, anyway?
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From: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>
To: "Mga List" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 07:19:12 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] gen to alt
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

If I find that my generator is not working should I go to an alternator?
1957 MGA 1500
Tom
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>, "Mga List"
  <Mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <03D8BF37B2A9499BBCA32958B54DDC30@OwnerPC>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 15:40:41 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] gen to alt
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Depends how original you want it to be, and whether the output of the dynamo 
is sufficient for your usage.  These cars ran perfectly well for many years, 
and many still do, on dynamos, alternators were required for the higher 
loads of more modern cars.  A similar question is often asked of MGBs, and 
that is "should I uprate my alternator?", and the answer is just the same. 
I've never had a problem with the factory-rated alts on either of mine.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> If I find that my generator is not working should I go to an alternator?
> 1957 MGA 1500
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 27 09:06:17 2012
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To: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>, "Mga List"
  <Mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <03D8BF37B2A9499BBCA32958B54DDC30@OwnerPC>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] gen to alt
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Generator is often cheap and easy to repair, commonly only needs 
brushes.  However, if the generator is melted inside due to a failed 
control box, that would be a good time to consider the alternator 
conversion.  In recent years replacement control boxes have been 
notoriously unreliable.  When a regulator relay fails, the bad $40 
control box takes out a good $100 generaor along with it.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 07:19 AM 10/27/2012 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote:
>If I find that my generator is not working should I go to an alternator?
>1957 MGA 1500
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 27 11:47:23 2012
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From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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To: 4 - Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>,  4 - MidgetSprite - POS
	yahoo <Midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com>, 4 - MGs <Mgs@autox.team.net>, 4
	- MG Ts <mg-t@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: [.H.ealeys] No Healey content but absolutely BRILLIANT.
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WOW ! ! !   There are several others on same page worth watching <VBG> 
if you like "Warbirds" ! !

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	[Healeys] No Healey content but absolutely BRILLIANT.
Date: 	Sat, 27 Oct 2012 12:18:50 -0400
From: 	Michael Salter
To: 	healeys@autox.team.net


Amazing what the combination of American financing and Kiwi ingenuity 
can achieve.
Turn up the sound and enjoy those Merlins!!

http://tvnz.co.nz/national-news/warbird-flies-again-video-5108120 --

Michael Salter *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!* 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 27 18:30:42 2012
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From: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>
To: "Mga List" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 20:31:25 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] GEN rebuild
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Do I need to remove the radiator to remove the gen? It is very hard to get
your hand and wrench to the lower front bolt on the gen.
1957 mga 1500
Tom
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 27 19:35:14 2012
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To: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>, "Mga List"
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From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <3BB3D2E6BD674E8BB46CE7FF7E72D0ED@OwnerPC>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] GEN rebuild
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No.  Just make like you are adjusting the belt tension.  Use a 9/16" 
open end wrench in your finger tips.  A good light helps.


At 08:31 PM 10/27/2012 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote:
>Do I need to remove the radiator to remove the gen? It is very hard 
>to get your hand and wrench to the lower front bolt on the gen.
>1957 mga 1500
>....
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 28 03:53:50 2012
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "4 - MGs" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7L+XCuQsBKCfWKPRVia0rNWBx3sgb_4LLPZpFNQepQywPA@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 09:34:53 -0000
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fwd: [.H.ealeys] No Healey content but absolutely
 BRILLIANT.
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Brilliant!  Now that's another one I'd really like to see and hear, after 
the Vampire and Vulcan earlier this year.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Turn up the sound and enjoy those Merlins!!
>
> http://tvnz.co.nz/national-news/warbird-flies-again-video-5108120 --
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 28 11:26:58 2012
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From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: <mgbob@juno.com>, <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
References: <20121026.113153.21501.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
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Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
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I use Dot 5 since 2000 and found, that regular replacement must be done,
eventhough Dot 5 does not mix with water.
Water vapour still comes into the system, so finally can create rust into
the cylinder bores.
So I had to replace the clutch MC, as the cylinder bore was pitted.

Cheers,

Hans
71 BGT

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens
mgbob@juno.com
Verzonden: vrijdag 26 oktober 2012 17:32
Aan: paulhunt73@virginmedia.com
CC: mgs@autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid


   Silicone separates quite visibly.
Bob
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Max Heim" <mvheim@sonic.net>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 09:41:07 +0100

DOT3, 4 and 5.1 aka Super DOT4 are all glycol based and hence compatible, so
you can just flush the old out when filling with the new. DOT5 is the odd
one out being silicone and the two types must not be mixed, switching
between these is not a trivial task.  I've never been able to understand why
a development of glycol was given the designation DOT5.1, implying it was a
development of silicone, and not DOT6.  Water mixes pretty-well instantly
with glycol based, never had silicone to try.

PaulH.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 28 11:54:45 2012
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <20121026.113153.21501.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
	<002f01cdb52f$518a4940$f49edbc0$@planet.nl>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 12:55:10 -0500
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

you must live in a very wet environment.  I live in an environment with 
relatively high humidity in the summer, and have driven cars for years (one 
over 10) with no issues at all.

you are in Holland, right?  do you leave the car in one of those fields they 
regularly flood <grin>?

-----Original Message----- 
From: Hans Duinhoven
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 12:11 PM
To: mgbob@juno.com ; paulhunt73@virginmedia.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid

I use Dot 5 since 2000 and found, that regular replacement must be done,
eventhough Dot 5 does not mix with water.
Water vapour still comes into the system, so finally can create rust into
the cylinder bores.
So I had to replace the clutch MC, as the cylinder bore was pitted.

Cheers,

Hans
71 BGT 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 28 13:29:01 2012
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From: "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd@comcast.net>
To: "mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <03D8BF37B2A9499BBCA32958B54DDC30@OwnerPC>
	<201210271504.q9RF4qm5024044@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 15:29:43 -0400
Subject: Re: [Mgs] gen to alt
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree. Alternators have reliable solid state regulators built in. Relay 
type regulators, that generators use, are the weakest link in the charging 
system, IMHO.

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd@comcast.net
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Barney Gaylord" <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
To: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>; "Mga List" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] gen to alt


> Generator is often cheap and easy to repair, commonly only needs brushes. 
> However, if the generator is melted inside due to a failed control box, 
> that would be a good time to consider the alternator conversion.  In 
> recent years replacement control boxes have been notoriously unreliable. 
> When a regulator relay fails, the bad $40 control box takes out a good 
> $100 generaor along with it.
>
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.com
>
>
> At 07:19 AM 10/27/2012 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote:
>>If I find that my generator is not working should I go to an alternator?
>>1957 MGA 1500
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd@comcast.net>
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References: <20121026.113153.21501.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
	<002f01cdb52f$518a4940$f49edbc0$@planet.nl>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 15:47:49 -0400
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I keep hearing two different opinions about Dot 5.
Either:
Dot 5 is terrible because it does not mix with water.
Or:
Dot 5 is wonderful because it does not mix with water.

Take your pick!

BTW, I've had good luck with Dot 5 in my TD over the past 10 years without 
replacement.

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd@comcast.net
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: <mgbob@juno.com>; <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid


>I use Dot 5 since 2000 and found, that regular replacement must be done,
> eventhough Dot 5 does not mix with water.
> Water vapour still comes into the system, so finally can create rust into
> the cylinder bores.
> So I had to replace the clutch MC, as the cylinder bore was pitted.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
> 71 BGT
>
> -----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
> Van: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens
> mgbob@juno.com
> Verzonden: vrijdag 26 oktober 2012 17:32
> Aan: paulhunt73@virginmedia.com
> CC: mgs@autox.team.net
> Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
>
>
>   Silicone separates quite visibly.
> Bob
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
> To: "Max Heim" <mvheim@sonic.net>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
> Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 09:41:07 +0100
>
> DOT3, 4 and 5.1 aka Super DOT4 are all glycol based and hence compatible, 
> so
> you can just flush the old out when filling with the new. DOT5 is the odd
> one out being silicone and the two types must not be mixed, switching
> between these is not a trivial task.  I've never been able to understand 
> why
> a development of glycol was given the designation DOT5.1, implying it was 
> a
> development of silicone, and not DOT6.  Water mixes pretty-well instantly
> with glycol based, never had silicone to try.
>
> PaulH.
> _______________________________________________
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 28 17:33:01 2012
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 23:27:38 GMT
To: dave@ranteer.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

My experience is as Hans's.  I needed to have White Post sleeve all six wheel
cylinders in my TD.
Condensation forms in these vented systems. With DOT5 (silicone) it can travel
to low points in the system, so one must bleed a tablespoon of water/brake
fluid from time to time.
Bo

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 12:55:10 -0500

you must live in a very wet environment.  I live in an environment with
relatively high humidity in the summer, and have driven cars for years (one
over 10) with no issues at all.

you are in Holland, right?  do you leave the car in one of those fields they
regularly flood <grin>?

-----Original Message-----
From: Hans Duinhoven
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 12:11 PM
To: mgbob@juno.com ; paulhunt73@virginmedia.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid

I use Dot 5 since 2000 and found, that regular replacement must be done,
eventhough Dot 5 does not mix with water.
Water vapour still comes into the system, so finally can create rust into
the cylinder bores.
So I had to replace the clutch MC, as the cylinder bore was pitted.

Cheers,

Hans
71 BGT
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 28 19:10:48 2012
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From: Paul Osborne <paul@ece.rochester.edu>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 21:11:46 -0400
References: <03D8BF37B2A9499BBCA32958B54DDC30@OwnerPC>
	<201210271504.q9RF4qm5024044@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
	<9829037B92E647D3A03CC0137FDBD7DF@yourmb2swywknr>
To: "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd@comcast.net>
Cc: mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] gen to alt
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

BUT, you can purchase a solid state regulator, install it in your relay
regulator box , and all looks orig.

paul o
On Oct 28, 2012, at 3:29 PM, Bob Donahue wrote:

> I agree. Alternators have reliable solid state regulators built in. Relay
type regulators, that generators use, are the weakest link in the charging
system, IMHO.
>
> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
> Email - bobmgtd@comcast.net
> Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
>              71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
> Member:  NEMGTR #11470
>              NAMGBR # 7-3336
>              Hoosier MGB Club
>              Olde Octagons of Indiana
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barney Gaylord" <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
> To: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>; "Mga List" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 11:04 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] gen to alt
>
>
>> Generator is often cheap and easy to repair, commonly only needs brushes.
However, if the generator is melted inside due to a failed control box, that
would be a good time to consider the alternator conversion.  In recent years
replacement control boxes have been notoriously unreliable. When a regulator
relay fails, the bad $40 control box takes out a good $100 generaor along with
it.
>>
>> Barney Gaylord
>> 1958 MGA with an attitude
>> http://MGAguru.com
>>
>>
>> At 07:19 AM 10/27/2012 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote:
>>> If I find that my generator is not working should I go to an alternator?
>>> 1957 MGA 1500
>> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paul@ece.rochester.edu
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 00:38:16 2012
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From: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 23:39:05 -0700
References: <A69CF349-92E2-4C26-9BEE-4A85C14CE224@red4est.com>
	<5089EDD4.4020000@ktc.com>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch problem solved
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Oct 25, 2012, at 6:56 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:

> Are you saying that you took this engine and gearbox out of a car they had
been running in and put them into another that had been sitting for 10 years
and you used the clutch slave cylinder from the car that had been sitting for
10 years without inspecting it?  Good grief!

Nope, I left the gearbox in the car when I pulled the engine 10 years ago.  I
*think* it's the same block.  It is the same pressure plate and clutch disk.
Over the past 10 years an amazing range of things have come up to block
progress.  A long series of parts not being available. Then when I couldn't
get the car together in time for a race, my throwing a rollcage into what was
supposed to be a daily driver miata while I worked on the MG, and turning that
into a racecar first, and having a racecar is not conducive to spending time
and money on a fancy road car. My being laid off and not having money.  My
getting a job, but at a start up and not having time. My theoretically having
time and money, but spending about eight months working almost full time on
home repairs.  The most impressive glitch in the schedule was caused by a kid
doing something  impressively stupid and in the process, crashing his car into
my garage. As it turns out, I was in the shed downstairs from the garage when
he did it.  Despite the impressive carnage, nobody was seriously injured:

http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157608318554680/

also:
http://red4est.com/shedcrash/

It took almost a year of hassle to get the garage back to usability, then two
months later Caltrans showed up, said that the work on the drainage had been
done without their permits and it had to be taken out and done over.



--
Larry Colen lrc@red4est.com sent from i4est
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 01:06:10 2012
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From: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 00:01:20 -0700
References: <DDDC1D97-4EB9-4D4D-A4BF-7B393CF0911F@red4est.com>
	<49875.173.110.4.227.1351225613.squirrel@wm.wi.net>
	<508A19FD.1070200@justbrits.com>
To: Just Brits Shop <shop@justbrits.com>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I didn't assemble the motor.  It was done by a friend at a race shop.  A saga
in itself.

On Oct 25, 2012, at 10:05 PM, Just Brits Shop wrote:

> << On 10/25/2012 11:26 PM, dwoerpel@wi.net wrote:
>
> .......but your plug leads don't look correct.  I think the #1 wire should
be in the 1 o'clock position on the distributor then going counter-clockwise,
the #3 wire, then #4, then #2. >>
>
> Unless my eyes are SO shot from looking at a BMC Parts Catalogue with it's
-10 point font print, all but # 3 are wrong, Dave <G> ! ! !
>
> The way I see it (counter-clockwise):
>
> Dist. # 1 goes to Plug # 2
> Dist. # 4 goes to Plug # 1
> Dist. # 3 goes to Plug # 3
> Dist. # 2 goes to Plug # 4
>
> BUT, dizzy DOES look incorrectly 'positioned' <G> ! ! !
>
> Larry, Dave is correct in that #1 wire (cap) should be at 1:00 o'clock ! !
> Yours looks to be at close to 3:00 o'clock ? ! ?


When I was horsing things around, I found that the adjustment on the dizzy
wasn't tightened down, and its position is completely random.

I am expecting/planning on setting timing from first principles when I'm a lot
closer to being ready to fire it up.

Given my preferences, I'd like to pull the dizzy, and the carb, and replace
them with a megasquirt system with crank based timing.  I'm afraid that
probably won't happen in the near future.


>
> HOW did you put the dizzy "drive shaft" in ?????????

I gave a pile of parts to Leroy Lacy and said, "Please make these into a
complete motor".  Actually I asked about the shop where he was building his
GT-2 tiger doing it, but as it turned out he ended up doing it, getting the
help of folks at that and the various other race shops right there.

>
> Have you turned to motor since you FIRST installed timing chain (with dots
aligned<G>)???

The motor has turned since then.

>
> GREAT lookin' job ! ! !   Question:  Can't tell for SURE, but are there
rubber 'o' rings under
> cyl. head nuts as visible in last picture ??  I tried to enlarge,
but............<G> ! !

Nope, those are fancy ARP cylinder head nuts.

It's a pretty crazy motor, between the aluminum flywheel, head and backing
plate, along with the reduction gear motor, I've knocked fifty static pounds
off the motor (probably worth about half a second a lap).  I've got a hi-flow
(hp-performance) supercharger, pauter rods, Armand Ayala did the crank,
venolia pistons, an aluminum head that was ported by Don Redmond (Replicka
Machinen), roller rockers, Dima Elgin ground the cam to Hans Pederson's specs,
and I've got the special header that Hans developed for the supercharged
motors.

With what I later discovered was  cracked iron head, the previous incarnation
of the motor, with the blower, saw 90 hp to the ground, and once peaked at
100. So, I'm hoping to consistently get a little better than 100 to the ground
with the ported aluminum head.

http://www.red4est.com/jasmine/dyno030304/dyno/dyno13.jpg

It was pretty impressive, she'd keep up with the spec miatas on the straights
at thunder hill.

>
> Ed
> Please visit MY site at:
> www.justbrits.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lrc@red4est.com

--
Larry Colen lrc@red4est.com sent from i4est
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
References: <20121026.113153.21501.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
	<002f01cdb52f$518a4940$f49edbc0$@planet.nl>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 08:38:44 -0000
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

That's exactly it.  Suppliers statements of "Silicone Brake Fluid repels
moisture so, unlike standard polyglycol brake fluid, it never needs
changing. Rust and corrosion are inhibited because moisture is kept out of
the system ..." are a complete nonsense.  The same amount of water gets into
MGB systems filled with silicone fluid as it does with glycol.  It still
migrates to the ends of the system i.e. the callipers and slaves, and hence
still reduces the boiling point particularly in the callipers, as well as
causing localised rusting.  It may well not mix with water, but it absorbs
air, which results in a spongy pedal.  Water in DOT3 and 4 is as
uncompressible as brake fluid.  It's original USP was a higher boiling point
than DOT4, as well as not damaging paint.  Now DOT5.1 has a higher boiling
point than DOT5 (and Castrol LMA (Low Moisture Absorption) always did) it's
only benefit is with the paint.  Some time ago I read that as soon as
someone came up with a way of completely flushing all traces of silicone
from hydraulic systems the American military would be ditching silicone in
favour of DOT5.1.

Humidity isn't the only factor.  Temperature is as well, and the rapidity 
and frequency of
changes from cold and dry to warm and wet, where warm moist air condenses
out on everything, something we in the UK at least get very frequently, and
in any season.

Whilst the Workshop Manual specifies changing all hydraulic *seals* at 36 
k/months (albeit North America only) it doesn't mention fluid.  Fluid is 
obviously (?) replaced at the same time, and it probably does no harm to 
flush some out of each calliper and slave annually.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Water vapour still comes into the system, so finally can create rust into
> the cylinder bores.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 10:31:58 2012
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From: James Schulte <schultejim@msn.com>
To: "Mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>, Magnette ZAZB
	<zmagnette@mgcars.org.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 12:32:43 -0400
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Subject: [Mgs] Reconditioning /cleaning carbs
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Folks,I received a carb care package from John E today and want to get started
cleaning them to prepare for rebuild. I was thinking of using brake cleaner
spray to get rid of grime. Is this ok or should I use Simple Green, WD 40 or
some other cleaner to wipe them down inside and out? Any suggestions?

Jim Schulte
President Lehigh Valley Kayak & Canoe Club
_______________________________________________

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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "James Schulte" <schultejim@msn.com>, "Mgs@autox.team.net"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY157-W392C8DF6EB80E5F7BBD31DDB630@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:53:47 -0000
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Reconditioning /cleaning carbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Why not carb cleaner?  That comes in a high-pressure aerosol designed to 
blast off typical carb internal sooting so external grime (assuming that is 
what you mean) should be no problem.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Folks,I received a carb care package from John E today and want to get 
> started
> cleaning them to prepare for rebuild. I was thinking of using brake 
> cleaner
> spray to get rid of grime. Is this ok or should I use Simple Green, WD 40 
> or
> some other cleaner to wipe them down inside and out? Any suggestions?
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 11:59:05 2012
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Guys
Thanks for the feedback. Yes Paul I meant carb cleaner but I only saw brake cleaner on the shelf until a second look after your post. I didn't think of paint thinner Curt. That is a good cheap option. It's been a while (8 years) since I did a full restoration. So I may need some reminders from time to time.
I have decided to name this Mg 1100 Cali. As it came from California via New Hampshire.
Jim S.
Harleysville, PA
Sent via the HTC Vividb", an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

----- Reply message -----
From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "James Schulte" <schultejim@msn.com>, "Mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Reconditioning /cleaning carbs
Date: Mon, Oct 29, 2012 12:53 pm


Why not carb cleaner?  That comes in a high-pressure aerosol designed to blast off typical carb internal sooting so external grime (assuming that is what you mean) should be no problem.

----- Original Message ----- > Folks,I received a carb care package from John E today and want to get > started
> cleaning them to prepare for rebuild. I was thinking of using brake > cleaner
> spray to get rid of grime. Is this ok or should I use Simple Green, WD 40 > or
> some other cleaner to wipe them down inside and out? Any suggestions?
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 12:18:22 2012
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From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "'Dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <20121026.113153.21501.2@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

The car is safely in the garage when it's wet outside.
Though living near the seeside makes the air humid almost all time...
There are lower riverbanks, which regulary flood.
I do not live nearby a river, so no chance.
I do live several meters below seelevel - how about that!
And yes the soil overhere is quite wet.
But we're happy we do not have such severe storms like the US east coast has
now.


Take care all of you!

Cheers,
Hans
71 BGT

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens
Dave
Verzonden: zondag 28 oktober 2012 18:55
Aan: mgs@autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid

you must live in a very wet environment.  I live in an environment with
relatively high humidity in the summer, and have driven cars for years (one
over 10) with no issues at all.

you are in Holland, right?  do you leave the car in one of those fields they
regularly flood <grin>?

-----Original Message-----
From: Hans Duinhoven
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 12:11 PM
To: mgbob@juno.com ; paulhunt73@virginmedia.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake fluid

I use Dot 5 since 2000 and found, that regular replacement must be done,
eventhough Dot 5 does not mix with water.
Water vapour still comes into the system, so finally can create rust into
the cylinder bores.
So I had to replace the clutch MC, as the cylinder bore was pitted.

Cheers,

Hans
71 BGT
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 13:52:35 2012
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To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Reconditioning /cleaning carbs
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Years ago I purchased a refillable aerosol spray can, probably from 
Harbor Freight.
You put some paint thinner or whatever in it, pressurize it from your 
compressor and
then spray away.  Handy for some cleaning jobs like carbs.

mjb.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 14:04:01 2012
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 15:58:18 -0400
From: John Di Fede <difejo@optonline.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Thread-index: Ac22D72KG94uXNNEQZGOPED7YQDPIg==
Subject: [Mgs] Reconditioning / Cleaning Carbs
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Jim,

 

There is also a carburetor dip that I have used to clean carb bodies.  It
comes in a gallon can similar to a paint can.  The can includes a dip
bucket.  Drop the carb body in the bucket, let soak overnight.  The product
I use is called Chem-Dip carburetor parts cleaner.  It should be available
at your local FLAPS.  I believe I purchased mine at Auto Zone.  

 

John DiFede

New York 

 

(Awaiting hurricane Sandy)  

 

 

 

 

From: James Schulte schultejim@msn.com

To: "Mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>, Magnette ZAZB

    <zmagnette@mgcars.org.uk>

Subject: [Mgs] Reconditioning /cleaning carbs



 

Folks,I received a carb care package from John E today and want to get
started

cleaning them to prepare for rebuild. I was thinking of using brake cleaner

spray to get rid of grime. Is this ok or should I use Simple Green, WD 40 or

some other cleaner to wipe them down inside and out? Any suggestions?

 

Jim Schulte

President Lehigh Valley Kayak & Canoe Club
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From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:24:26 -0400
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Sandy
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Hoping that all the Listers in Sandy's way  come away without harm. Usually,
we are in the cone of the storm
Take care,
Dave Houser
Brooksville, FL
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From: <frankk12@verizon.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Sandy
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Thanks Dave. Riding it out here in southern Rhode Island.
Frank Krajewski
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
To: "MGList List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 4:24 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Sandy


> Hoping that all the Listers in Sandy's way  come away without harm. 
> Usually,
> we are in the cone of the storm
> Take care,
> Dave Houser
> Brooksville, FL
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 14:14:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matthew Milkevitch <mmilkevitch@yahoo.com>
To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>, MGList List
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Sandy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Thanks for that Dave.

Very windy and rainy here in Philadelphia PA.  Storm
landfall is supposed to be near Atlantic City NJ, which is only about 80 miles
from here.  I pray that no trees fall.

GT is safely tucked away in the
garage, hunkering down just as we are....

Matt Milkevitch
'74 MGBGT
________________________________
 From: W. David Houser
<mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday,
October 29, 2012 4:24 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Sandy
 
Hoping that all the Listers in
Sandy's way  come away without harm. Usually,
we are in the cone of the storm
Take care,
Dave Houser
Brooksville, FL
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 19:44:43 2012
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From: "Ray Graham" <runner01@wowway.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 20:41:11 -0500
Thread-index: Ac22P6P4Z6xUtWy2RfGweHocvi66qA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Mgs] Headlight Bucket Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Team:

Getting ready to restore and paint.  How do you remove the headlight buckets
on a 1966 MGB?  It appears that the buckets are riveted into the body? 

 

Thanks,

Ray Graham
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 00:08:33 2012
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 21:14:06 -0400
From: saidel <saidel@camden.rutgers.edu>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <C1B232FF-52C5-4DC0-8300-AF1F07FCBED5@tampabay.rr.com>
	<1351545264.20326.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
User-Agent: Roundcube Webmail/0.7.2
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Sandy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Windy, wet, branches down here in Cherry Hill, NJ (11 miles East of 
Philadelphia, 55 miles from Atlantic City).
Run-off street water doing a great job cleaning the roads.
Quite the event. Nice for once to be sufficiently far from the ocean. 
The news reporting (excessive) indicated that no matter how much
they broadcast from the shore, it was worse.

Political comment:  as much as I dislike the policies of Gov. Christie, 
he did well in his planning and pronouncements about this event.  Good 
for him.

Bill Saidel
'76 MGB

On 2012-10-29 17:14, Matthew Milkevitch wrote:
> Thanks for that Dave.
>
> Very windy and rainy here in Philadelphia PA.  Storm
> landfall is supposed to be near Atlantic City NJ, which is only about
> 80 miles
> from here.  I pray that no trees fall.
>
> GT is safely tucked away in the
> garage, hunkering down just as we are....
>
> Matt Milkevitch
> '74 MGBGT
> ________________________________
>  From: W. David Houser
> <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
> To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday,
> October 29, 2012 4:24 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Sandy
>
> Hoping that all the Listers in
> Sandy's way  come away without harm. Usually,
> we are in the cone of the storm
> Take care,
> Dave Houser
> Brooksville, FL
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Ray Graham" <runner01@wowway.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <001201cdb63f$a471d1d0$ed557570$@wowway.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 08:31:33 -0000
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Headlight Bucket Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Not originally, they have four screws into plastic sockets in the headlight 
ring (which is spot-welded to the wing).

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Getting ready to restore and paint.  How do you remove the headlight 
> buckets
> on a 1966 MGB?  It appears that the buckets are riveted into the body?
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 19:05:22 2012
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Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 19:54:40 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: Larry Colen <lrc@red4est.com>
References: <A69CF349-92E2-4C26-9BEE-4A85C14CE224@red4est.com>
	<5089EDD4.4020000@ktc.com>
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Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch problem solved
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I misunderstood.  Looks like you've had your share of travails. Keep 
truckin' and my hat's off to ya!

CR
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 19:09:35 2012
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From: "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd@comcast.net>
To: "mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <03D8BF37B2A9499BBCA32958B54DDC30@OwnerPC>
	<201210271504.q9RF4qm5024044@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
	<9829037B92E647D3A03CC0137FDBD7DF@yourmb2swywknr>
	<01E99907-9DC5-46C2-8A2A-7C50F36D20DF@ece.rochester.edu>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 21:03:49 -0400
Subject: Re: [Mgs] gen to alt
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Wow, where can I purchase one of these solid state generator regulators for 
my TD?

Electrical contacts have limited life under rapid, constant switching. 
Transistors can do the job with no wear. I love my Pertronix Ignitor. If I 
can get a solid state regulator, I will love it also.

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd@comcast.net
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Osborne" <paul@ece.rochester.edu>
To: "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd@comcast.net>
Cc: "mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] gen to alt


BUT, you can purchase a solid state regulator, install it in your relay 
regulator box , and all looks orig.

paul o
On Oct 28, 2012, at 3:29 PM, Bob Donahue wrote:

> I agree. Alternators have reliable solid state regulators built in. Relay 
> type regulators, that generators use, are the weakest link in the charging 
> system, IMHO.
>
> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
> Email - bobmgtd@comcast.net
> Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
>              71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
> Member:  NEMGTR #11470
>              NAMGBR # 7-3336
>              Hoosier MGB Club
>              Olde Octagons of Indiana
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Cc: "Mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
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Here's the stuff I used to use when I was running a shop.

  http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/viewItemDetailsMI.jsp?AM_ACTION=ViewItemDetailsAM&LANGUAGE=0&AM_FIRST=Y&LINE_NO=12&SR_LINE_NO=11&SEARCH_DESC=03060716&SEARCH_FIELD=M&MFR_PART_NO=14104+TYME+CARB+CLEANER&BUS_ACTION=details&display_option=N&KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=600

Take the carbs apart and put every part that you're going to reuse in 
the bath basket overnight.  Pull out the basket and rinse the parts in 
warm water next day.

I once put this stuff into a  competitor's parts cleaner bucket because 
I could only find a refill can of the Tyme.  The next day the bucket was 
leaking at the seams!

CR


On 10/29/2012 11:32 AM, James Schulte wrote:
> Folks,I received a carb care package from John E today and want to get started
> cleaning them to prepare for rebuild. I was thinking of using brake cleaner
> spray to get rid of grime. Is this ok or should I use Simple Green, WD 40 or
> some other cleaner to wipe them down inside and out? Any suggestions?
>
> Jim Schulte
> President Lehigh Valley Kayak & Canoe Club
> _______________________________________________
>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 20:03:46 2012
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Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 20:42:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: dwoerpel@wi.net
To: "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] gen to alt
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Just got one and it works great.

http://wiltonae.com/home/index.aspx

Give Bob Jeffers a call
and then you'll have to give him some data about your generator.

Good luck!

Dave W.
59 MGA 1500


>
Wow, where can I purchase one of these solid state generator regulators
> for
> my TD?
> 
> Electrical contacts have
limited life under rapid, constant switching.
> Transistors can do
the job with no wear. I love my Pertronix Ignitor. If I
> can get
a solid state regulator, I will love it also.
> 
> Bob
Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
> Email - bobmgtd@comcast.net
> Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
>                71 MGB -
#GHN5UB254361
> Member:  NEMGTR #11470
>               
NAMGBR # 7-3336
>                Hoosier MGB Club
>       
        Olde Octagons of Indiana
> 
> ----- Original
Message -----
>
From: "Paul Osborne"
<paul@ece.rochester.edu>
> To: "Bob Donahue"
<bobmgtd@comcast.net>
> Cc: "mgs"
<mgs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 9:11
PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] gen to alt
> 
> 
>
BUT, you can purchase a solid state regulator, install it in your relay
> regulator box , and all looks orig.
> 
> paul o
> On Oct 28, 2012, at 3:29 PM, Bob Donahue wrote:
> 
>> I agree. Alternators have reliable solid state regulators built
in.
>> Relay
>> type regulators, that generators
use, are the weakest link in the
>> charging
>>
system, IMHO.
>>
>> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the
'50s)
>> Email - bobmgtd@comcast.net
>> Cars:      
52 MGTD - #17639
>>              71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
>> Member:  NEMGTR #11470
>>              NAMGBR #
7-3336
>>              Hoosier MGB Club
>>          
   Olde Octagons of Indiana
>
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<< On 10/30/2012 8:03 PM, Bob Donahue wrote:
> Wow, where can I purchase one of these solid state generator 
> regulators for my TD?>>

Don't you  READ The Octagon, Bob ??  Also, plenty on them in Archives 
<G> ! ! !

Ed
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From: "Tom Gunderson" <thgun@comporium.net>
To: "Mga List" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Mgs] MGA gen
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I looked at the brushes and the look fine. I did not remove the back plate. I
could see the brushes through the slot holes. I checked the voltage at the
back plate and it is 0. I can jump start the car and it will run fine. The
battery is too low to turn the engine over. Should I remove the back plate of
the gen and inspect?

Tom Gunderson 1957 1500 MGA
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