From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 1 06:41:24 2001 From: RobMGB@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 08:40:07 EST Subject: Check out Best cars according to Edmunds-MINI Click here: Best cars according to Edmunds RobMGB 74B /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 1 08:17:18 2001 From: "Dave Munroe" To: eugeneb@nni.com, schultejim@prodigy.net, miket-nyc@juno.com, Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 11:14:59 -0400 Subject: Re: Cars For Sale On List???? Eugene Balinski wrote: > Be advised that every Father's Day Weekend, Laconia, NH and the >surrounding area (Weir's Beach) turn into the "Sturgis of the East", and >host one of the largest, if not the largest gathering of the Motorcycle >faithful (primarily H-D's) on the East Coast. Automobiles of any type are >generally not welcome during that time. Eugene; Perhaps not in 2002. The AMA has cancelled the Superbike event for NHIS due to rider protest againt unsafe track conditions. This racing event is the focal point for the traditional Father's Day weekend, even though the majority of the visitors to the area don't go anywhere the race track. same situation in Daytona re: the crowds. The Daytona 200 is the event, maybe 40 to 60K spectators in the Speedway at any given time, but over 1/2 million biker nuts gather in the area. Go figure. It will be interesting to see what the failure to hold the featured event will do to the overall crowd size in New Hampshire. Might be an interesting twist to gather MG's and other LBC's at the track on that weekend, since the Superbikes won't be there. (Unless, of course, track management manage to find another bike related event to hold there that weekend.....) Dave _________________________________________________________________ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 1 08:31:33 2001 From: "Dave Munroe" To: fayne@attglobal.net, dmeadow@juno.com, mgs@autox.team.net, Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 11:30:39 -0400 Subject: Re: The BASTARDS! "Jeff Fayne" wrote: >All may not be lost. According to an open later posted today from >Speedvision's President, it sounds like they will be getting rid of some of >the half-hour 'magazines' and alot of aviation/boating oriented programming >to make way for the NASCAR stuff. Apparently, the core racing programs will >remain intact: > >http://www.speedvision.com/pub/articles/racing/08INews/011130a.html > > Jeff; This just in from the AMASuperbikecom website: "What was written was wrong," Murphy said. "It should have said that NASCAR TV will run on Monday and Wednesday nights, while the motorcycle programming will remain on Tuesday nights. I think they will have a correction on that out today." This means that significant primetime air may still be available for our preferred sports car programs on other nights as well. We will have to wait for the "Correction" Dave _________________________________________________________________ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 1 08:53:51 2001 From: "Charles Sorkin" To: "MGs List" Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 10:57:02 -0500 Subject: Re: Rallies Max said: "Plus, driving the Blue Ridge Parkway might not be so attractive it it were bumper-to-bumper with 1200 MGs. " I don't know about that. Maybe once I might get a kick out of getting caught in an all British traffic jam. Charles '74 Midget '72 Midget Bloomfield, NJ cdsorkin@cdsorkin.com "How about we duck inside for a Hen?" /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 1 11:30:29 2001 From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" To: Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 13:32:45 -0600 Subject: test /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 1 15:51:13 2001 From: "N" To: "MG Digest" Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 17:49:14 -0500 Subject: Rallyes, was Cars For Sale On List???? Jim Nazarian mentions, "...drive your MG along the Blue Ridge Parkway for an hour or 10. You'll never forget it." I say Amen to that! That and (PCH away from the cities) are two of the best drives I've ever taken in the U.S. And, I've had the pleasure of doing each multiple times. Most were courtesy of auto importers or manufacturers who held new car introductions in locations like Asheville, NC & Charlottesville, VA, San Diego, Napa and Monterey, CA. And, then there have been the "gotta drive that way to see a client" trips. I often wished I had my MGB on those trips, except on those occasions when I was pushing some manufacturer's sports cars to their limits. Rumor had it that the companies paid the local cops to go on vacation during these events. Thanks to these "business" trips, I've been able to drive the coast highway from Seattle to San Diego & Blue Ridge Pkwy. from one end to the other. Another great MG road is the stretch of a 2-lane road past a "petrified forest" between Napa & Healdsburg, CA. Only a couple of miles, but a constant left, right. left, right, etc. Get into the rhythm & have fun. Norm Sippel, former auto writer, inveterate traveler '66 MGB /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 1 15:54:10 2001 From: Tab Julius To: Michael C Taglieri Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 17:50:59 -0500 Subject: Re: Virii again I run some large-participation lists, and don't accept attachments, which is somewhat annoying for everyone, mainly because it means they must post in plain text - no styles or formatting, but it keeps you from getting stuff that way. I think mgs@autox already is set up like that - I don't recall ever getting styled text from anyone. At 04:30 AM 12/1/01 -0500, Michael C Taglieri wrote: >Another solution to the list-problem is to set up the list so it strips >attachments off all posts. This means you have to put photos, etc., on a >website rather than attach it to a list-post, but it means people can >read the list with confidence that they can't get infected. > >Mike Taglieri -- miket-nyc@juno.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 1 16:12:43 2001 From: Montgomery Morris To: Mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 17:14:37 -0800 Subject: TEST-IGNORE SSS /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 1 16:14:17 2001 From: R C Engelhardt To: mgs Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 15:13:43 -0800 Subject: Re: Rallyes, was Cars For Sale On List???? N wrote: > > Another great MG road is the stretch of a 2-lane road past a "petrified > forest" between Napa & Healdsburg, CA. Only a couple of miles, but a > constant left, right. left, right, etc. Get into the rhythm & have fun. > > Norm Sippel, former auto writer, inveterate traveler > '66 MGB The Petrified Forest is the real deal. It's located very near my home in Sonoma County (famous for wine and miles of twisty, windy, paved-over-cow-path MG roads). 3 million years ago the local extinct volcano (Mt. St. Helena) erupted and buried the trees. Now exposed and petrified it's a low key interesting destination, the largest petrified forest in the world or so they claim. Ron 58 MGA Santa Rosa, Ca. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 1 20:47:54 2001 From: kmr@pil.net To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 03:47:17 GMT Subject: "Spohn Fed" Congradulations are in order for the list's own Bill Spohn. His letter citing some corrections was published in the December 2001 issue of Classic & Spors Car. Although, I must say, the letter has 'heavy' Lambo bias... with just a mention of an LBC (his Interceptor). Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 1 21:17:02 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: "Michael C Taglieri" , Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 21:16:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: Viruses again It is set to strip off all of the junk. No attachments or other virus bearing mater. On Sat, 01 Dec 2001 17:50:59 -0500, Tab Julius wrote: >I run some large-participation lists, and don't accept attachments, which >is somewhat annoying for everyone, mainly because it means they must post >in plain text - no styles or formatting, but it keeps you from getting >stuff that way. > >I think mgs@autox already is set up like that - I don't recall ever getting >styled text from anyone. -- Andrew Lundgren lundgren@byu.net http://www.itwest.net/~lundgren /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 1 21:49:03 2001 From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" To: "Scott Allen" , Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 23:20:05 -0600 Subject: Re: Jumps Starting Pos Ground Hi Scott, Did you get any feed back on your jumping question. Please post results. I didn't see any answers come through on my computer. Thanks, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Allen To: Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 11:48 AM Subject: Jumps Starting Pos Ground > Hi, > > I know this is a pretty basic question, but how do you jump start a pos > ground car using a modern neg ground system? Pos to pos, neg to pos? > > Thanks in advance, > > Scott Allen > > 74 1/2 BGT > Dead 52 TD /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 09:06:00 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: "Paul T. Root" , Bullwinkle Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 08:04:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: Was: Abingdon, Now: Snowy Weather (or lack thereof...) Wacky for sure here in the Mid-Atlantic. Yesterday (December 1!) my family and I went into new York City for the day, wearing shorts and short-sleeved shirts! BTW, if crowds and the numbers of shoppers Macys, FAO Schwartz and Toys R Us is any indication, looks like a decent holiday season for these retailers!! ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) '66-ish 18GB-U-H 39633 NAMGBR #5-2328 Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 11:21:41 2001 From: Bill Saidel To: Dan DiBiase Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 13:20:41 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Was: Abingdon, Now: Snowy Weather (or lack thereof...) Dan (and all) Dan, you underestimate how wacky. My SO and I spent the afternoon wading in the Atlantic after a 50 m top down trip in 75 F degree weather on Dec 1. This has to be some reflection of global warming. Even mosquitoes in Oregon know about global warming (but that is another story). Trip was great. Bill 76B On Sun, 2 Dec 2001, Dan DiBiase wrote: > Wacky for sure here in the Mid-Atlantic. Yesterday (December 1!) my family > and I went into new York City for the day, wearing shorts and > short-sleeved shirts! BTW, if crowds and the numbers of shoppers Macys, > FAO Schwartz and Toys R Us is any indication, looks like a decent holiday > season for these retailers!! > > > Dan DiBiase > Dayton, NJ > '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) > '65 MGB Tourer (Project) > '66-ish 18GB-U-H 39633 > NAMGBR #5-2328 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 11:31:30 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 12:27:39 -0600 Subject: Howdy! I've blown the clutch (actually I think it's the throw-out bearing) on the Victor TF. Since the power train is all MGB, I'm hoping to get some good advice about this from this list. What's the scoop on the throw-outs? Some have told me to use a ballbearing one and others have said to use a graphite one. What do y'all think? Since this is in a Victor, rather than a B, I'm attempting to take the transmission off from the bottom rather than pull the engine and transmission as a unit. The crossmember on this car will unbolt for easy removal. -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 11:39:04 2001 From: Carl W French To: Rocky Frisco , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 13:36:44 -0500 Subject: Re: Howdy! There are better people than me to answer that question but let me be the first one to say Hi there! welcome back! (even if only for a visit) Carl French 67B 80B Alfred, Maine >What's the scoop on the throw-outs? Some have told me to use a >ballbearing one and others have said to use a graphite one. > >What do y'all think? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 14:00:15 2001 From: "Eugene Harrison" To: Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 12:58:44 -0800 Subject: ListQuest Problem Is anyone else having problems with the Listquest archive? It is time to buy new tires for the '79B and I wanted to get some recommendations on size and brands. Its my daily driver. Anyway, I can't seem to reach ListQuest. Is there another archive? Thanks Eugene Harrison 1979 B /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 14:43:57 2001 From: Robert Sexson To: spridgets@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 13:42:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: Just Brits Does anyone know if Ed at Just Brits ts still in business? I haven't saw antthing from him for some time. R. Sexson 74.5 B 74 Midget [scatered pieces] ______________________________________________________________________________ Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger http://messenger.excite.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 15:17:39 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: mgs Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 16:16:31 -0600 Subject: Re: Just Brits Robert: He posted to this forum just last Thursday. I also know that he his working on a TD. Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 15:56:03 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 17:55:07 EST Subject: Winterizing my "new" MGB Hi, Could anyone please tell me what I should do in order to prepare for "trouble free" winter driving...I heard that I should change to a 10w-40w or 5w-30 change all the filters, check the battery, clean the battery cables and connections to earth and to the engine, I've noticed that my radiator is filled with a mixture that's mostly antifreeze and its still very green, should I also figure on changing it too, or is it still good even if its over a year old? How about the carburetor? Anybody know of a website that has a possible "winterizing list" that I could access and download? I would like to get this "winterizing" project done and out of the way before next spring? Is there anything that I should do to the Hood (top) and interior or any thing else anyone can think of it would be most appreciated, TIA, Albert Escalante ,1978 MGB -=Safety Fast=- ]' /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 16:04:51 2001 From: "Dave Wood" To: "mgs" Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 15:00:58 -0800 Subject: Re: Winterizing my "new" MGB Albert, You didn't mention where you live. It makes a difference what kind of tempuratures you will be subjecting your MG to during the winter. I live in Western Oregon and don't do anything to my MG except make sure that the antifreeze is not more than a couple of years old. That's generally not a problem as I usually end up changing it when a hose needs replacing. We don't generally have very cold weather here, maybe a week or two in the "teens" in which case I put a piece of about 6 inch cardboard across the front of my radiator to help it warm up a bit. I have run 10w40 oil in my MG since new. Dave 72 B Hi, Could anyone please tell me what I should do in order to prepare for "trouble free" winter driving...I heard that I should change to a 10w-40w or 5w-30 change all the filters, check the battery, clean the battery cables and connections to earth and to the engine, I've noticed that my radiator is filled with a mixture that's mostly antifreeze and its still very green, should I also figure on changing it too, or is it still good even if its over a year old? How about the carburetor? Anybody know of a website that has a possible "winterizing list" that I could access and download? I would like to get this "winterizing" project done and out of the way before next spring? Is there anything that I should do to the Hood (top) and interior or any thing else anyone can think of it would be most appreciated, TIA, Albert Escalante ,1978 MGB -=Safety Fast=- /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 16:31:45 2001 From: "Lawrie Alexander" To: , Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 15:27:36 -0800 Subject: Re: Winterizing my "new" MGB Unless your engine is brand-new and you live somewhere where the temperatures regularly dip below ten below zero, don't even think of using 5w-30! Or even 10w-30, for that matter. These modern multi-grades are made for engines that have much tighter tolerances than any MGB was ever built with. Fresh 20-50 should be fine for most climates. Make sure your battery terminal connections are clean and that your anti-freeze is fresh, and that all hoses and belts are in good condition. Keep an eye on the tire pressures, too. The carburetor should not need any special attention, other than changing the damper oil to 20wt (motorcycle fork oil) if you've been using heavier engine oil. Otherwise, just drive and enjoy! Lawrie British Sportscar Center -----Original Message----- From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sunday, December 02, 2001 2:58 PM Subject: Winterizing my "new" MGB >Hi, >Could anyone please tell me what I should do in order to prepare for "trouble >free" winter driving...I heard that I should change to a 10w-40w or 5w-30 >change all the filters, check the battery, clean the battery cables and >connections to earth and to the engine, I've noticed that my radiator is >filled with a mixture that's mostly antifreeze and its still very green, >should I also figure on changing it too, or is it still good even if its over >a year old? How about the carburetor? Anybody know of a website that has a >possible "winterizing list" that I could access and download? I would like to >get this "winterizing" project done and out of the way before next spring? Is >there anything that I should do to the Hood (top) and interior or any >thing else anyone can think of it would be most appreciated, TIA, > Albert Escalante ,1978 MGB >-=Safety Fast=- /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 16:33:02 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Bill Saidel Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 15:32:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Was: Abingdon, Now: Snowy Weather (or lack thereof...) Where did you go, Bill, and how was the water? Dan Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 16:36:21 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Rick Lindsay , Tom Bott Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 15:35:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Dash Crinkle Paint Rick, I'd be interested in seeing this style finish.... Thx... --- Rick Lindsay wrote: A friend had his oil tank crinkle powder coated on his > Testarossa. I'll find out if he has any pictures so that > you might see the finish. ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) '66-ish 18GB-U-H 39633 NAMGBR #5-2328 Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 17:04:49 2001 From: Montgomery Morris To: Mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 18:06:30 -0800 Subject: green wire not hot It was a beautiful day in Missouri-60 degrees and sunny. So I PUSHED the 79B outside to trace a wiring problem. I have no turn signals, fuel, temp guage, or wiper when ignition on. There is no power to the third fuse (down) in the box. I hotwired power to the green wire at the fuse box and everything worked. I'm getting no power on the green wire at the wiper switch. Question: Where does the power for the green wire circuit originate? Any suggestions on how to trace this? Monte /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 17:13:37 2001 From: Montgomery Morris To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 18:15:29 -0800 Subject: tires Eugene, I have P195/70 R-14 on my 79B. The PO installed this size and it handles fine. MOnte At 12:58 PM 12/2/01 -0800, you wrote: >Is anyone else having problems with the Listquest archive? It is time to buy >new tires for the '79B and I wanted to get some recommendations on size and >brands. Its my daily driver. Anyway, I can't seem to reach ListQuest. Is there >another archive? >Thanks >Eugene Harrison >1979 B /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 19:50:28 2001 From: "Jeanne Blumberg" To: "Tab Julius" , Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 21:49:48 -0500 Subject: Re: Virii again Except that the SirCam virus came thru e-mail, no attachments necessary. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 19:54:39 2001 From: rwygonik To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 21:56:15 -0500 Subject: need driver seat back The teeth for the adjustment mechanism on my drivers seat are worn. Someone said this doesn't happen often but I took the seat off and that is what I found. The torsion spring was not connected so that may have put too much stress on the teeth. Anyway, I need just the back part of a driver side seat for a 74 mgb. Teeth on adjustment mechanism need to be in good shape. Don't need the upholstery or the bottom part of the seat. Anybody out there have on reasonable? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 19:55:11 2001 From: rwygonik To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 21:56:41 -0500 Subject: need driver seat back The teeth for the adjustment mechanism on my drivers seat are worn. Someone said this doesn't happen often but I took the seat off and that is what I found. The torsion spring was not connected so that may have put too much stress on the teeth. Anyway, I need just the back part of a driver side seat for a 74 mgb. Teeth on adjustment mechanism need to be in good shape. Don't need the upholstery or the bottom part of the seat. Anybody out there have on reasonable? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 20:02:50 2001 From: Tab Julius To: "Jeanne Blumberg" Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 21:58:25 -0500 Subject: Re: Virii again SirCam is always sent through attachments. The attachments is an example of the double-extension I mentioned. It finds a file on your system, like "Y2001 taxes.doc", prepends itself to the file, adds an executable extension (.lnk, .pif, .bat, etc. as I mentioned), sends itself out to your list using the root filename as the subject. It has its own smtp client so it works regardless of your setup, which makes it very sneaky. But it always ARRIVES as an attachment. You want to be foolish enough to click on it, that's up to you, but that's how you get it. Believe me, I've received dozens, if not hundreds. The text is usually "hi, how are you? I send you this in order to have your advice..." or something to that effect. But it does always arrive as an attachment. At 09:49 PM 12/2/01 -0500, Jeanne Blumberg wrote: >Except that the SirCam virus came thru e-mail, no attachments necessary. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 20:15:37 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: "Aeseeyou@aol.com" , Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 20:14:59 -0700 Subject: Re: Winterizing my "new" MGB I've lived in Colorado for most of my life, a few years in Utah. I have run antifreeze that is many years old. (My MG doesn't get many miles on in the winter, but other cars do, my B's is probably 2 years now...) You can buy a little gauge for about $5 US with some beads in it to measure how low you are protected it. You suck up some of your coolant, see what it says. It is a pretty good way of telling the quality I think. On Sun, 02 Dec 2001 17:55:07 -0500 (EST), Aeseeyou@aol.com wrote: >I've noticed that my radiator is >filled with a mixture that's mostly antifreeze and its still very green, >should I also figure on changing it too, or is it still good even if its over >a year old? -- Andrew Lundgren lundgren@byu.net http://www.itwest.net/~lundgren /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 20:19:04 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: "Aeseeyou@aol.com" , Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 20:18:33 -0700 Subject: Re: Winterizing my "new" MGB One thing I forgot to mention, a can of ether can come in very handy. They call it ignition fluid or something like that. *-*-*-* READ THE DIRECTIONS! *-*-*-* It is a spray can of ether, too much can be a very bad thing. It works great in the winter on your car if you need it, and in the spring on the lawn mower after a long quite winter. On Sun, 02 Dec 2001 17:55:07 -0500 (EST), Aeseeyou@aol.com wrote: >Could anyone please tell me what I should do in order to prepare for "trouble >free" winter driving...I heard that I should change to a 10w-40w or 5w-30 >change all the filters, check the battery, clean the battery cables and >connections to earth and to the engine, I've noticed that my radiator is >filled with a mixture that's mostly antifreeze and its still very green, >should I also figure on changing it too, -- Andrew Lundgren lundgren@byu.net http://www.itwest.net/~lundgren /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 20:32:42 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: "mgs@autox.team.net" Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 21:30:01 -0600 Subject: Re: Winterizing my "new" MGB Andrew: <<>> I have run antifreeze that is many years old. <<>> You either need to replace it or add a anti rust with water pump lubricant. There are additives in antifreeze to keep the coolant from rusting and corroding the cooling system. Engines with aluminum components in contact with the coolant are especially vulnerable to corrosion due to electrolyses. The normal life span of these additives is two years. Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 21:06:23 2001 From: LBCarCoMail@aol.com To: rsexson@excite.com, spridgets@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 23:05:25 EST Subject: Re: Just Brits Yep talked to Ed on the phone last week, he is well and working hard. Jeff /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 21:48:58 2001 From: MGALUVR@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 23:48:11 EST Subject: Carburetor question...... Hello to the list, I recently had a rebuilt early MGB 1800cc, 3 main bearing engine installed in my 62 MKII MGA roadster. Everything has gone well and the car runs nicely, with the exception of one thing that needs attention. I have some gas that drips from the bottom of both carburetors after I shut the car off and park it in the garage. The smell of gas is distinct and the odor lingers for an hour or so after shutoff. I assume the pressure built up by the fuel pump in the line causes the slow but steady drip until the pressure is gone. There is only a small amount of gas that is involved. And because the amount is small it probably evaporates almost as quickly as it leaks. I put a pair of SU's on this engine that were left over from the previous engine (1622 CC). I assume these that are currently in use are the 1 1/2 inch variety. I know there are also 1 3/4 inch SU's out there also. Were these larger carbs standard on the larger 1800 cc "B" engine ? I have the carbs that came on the rebuilt motor but they are not rebuilt and since they were questionable, I went with what came off the previous motor. I didn't know their condition either, but they physically looked to be in better shape. Would a pair of 1 3/4 inch SU's give me any appreciable performance boost? If the carbs that came on the rebuilt motor are actually the larger models I will have them rebuilt instead of the ones I am using now. What cars were the larger SU's normally used on? Happy Holidays, and Merry Xmas to all on the list. Bill Dillstrom 1962 MGA MKII roadster ? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 22:18:10 2001 From: Barney Gaylord To: MGALUVR@aol.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 23:17:26 -0600 Subject: Re: Carburetor question...... At 11:48 PM 12/2/01 -0500, MGALUVR@aol.com wrote: >.... 62 MKII MGA roadster. .... I have some gas that drips from the bottom >of both carburetors after I shut the car off .... I put a pair of SU's on >this engine that were left over from the previous engine (1622 CC). Those would be SU H4 carburetors, which are prone to leakage around the main fuel jet packing gland on the bottom. The leak can generally be cured with the installation of a gasket set, which includes the cork jet seals. >I assume these that are currently in use are the 1 1/2 inch variety. I >know there are also 1 3/4 inch SU's out there also. Were these larger >carbs standard on the larger 1800 cc "B" engine ? Nope. All SU carbs used on MGA and MGB B-Series pushrod engines used 1-1/2" carbs. '55-'62 MGA had dual H4's, 1-1/2 inch The MGA Twin Cam engine had dual SU H6 carbs, 1-3/4 inch. '62-'67 MGB had dual HS4's, 1-1/2 inch '72-'74 MGB had dual HIF4's, 1-1/2 inch '75-'80 MGB had a single-Zenith Stromberg 1-3/4 inch carburetor. >.... Would a pair of 1 3/4 inch SU's give me any appreciable performance >boost? For competitive racing where the engine spends a lot of time running above 5000 rpm, yes. For a "civil" street machine, probably not. My MGA currently has a 1600 engine with MGB "18" head and a slightly warn street cam. It will do well over 100 mph with the stock 1-1/2 inch SU H4 carbs, and it wins lots of autocross events. So not quite sure of your idea of "appreciable". >.... What cars were the larger SU's normally used on? .... MGA Twin Cam, MGB GT V8, some TR's and Morgans with large 4-cylinder engines, and a whole bunch of six cylinder British sports cars. Lots of others to numerous to list. Check into a good SU carburetor service manual for all such details. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 2 23:53:19 2001 From: "michelle pountney" To: Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 17:55:44 +1100 Subject: Re:Hi Good people.... G'Day, Despite owning an Austin Heally Sprite many years ago and therefore swearing off anything vaguely english with four wheels, the mid life crisis has bit hard and I'm suddenly the proud owner of a 1968 Mk1 O/D MGB. I'm hoping I can get some advice from time to time from more experianced owners of the marque. She has a weber carby conversion and whilst the top end is great she wont idle below 1000 RPM. Is this normal???? I live in Australia and with summer approaching was wondering if the electric fan conversion is really worth the money???? Thanks in anticipation. Mark Smith (Smithy from Oz) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 00:45:39 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: MGALUVR@aol.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 01:40:43 -0600 Subject: Re: Carburetor question...... MGALUVR@aol.com wrote: > > Hello to the list, > > I recently had a rebuilt early MGB 1800cc, 3 main bearing engine installed > in my 62 MKII MGA roadster. Everything has gone well and the car runs nicely, > with the exception of one thing that needs attention. I have some gas that > drips from the bottom of both carburetors after I shut the car off and park > it in the garage. The smell of gas is distinct and the odor lingers for an > hour or so after shutoff. I assume the pressure built up by the fuel pump in > the line causes the slow but steady drip until the pressure is gone. There is > only a small amount of gas that is involved. And because the amount is small > it probably evaporates almost as quickly as it leaks. I put a pair of SU's on > this engine that were left over from the previous engine (1622 CC). I assume > these that are currently in use are the 1 1/2 inch variety. I know there are > also 1 3/4 inch SU's out there also. Were these larger carbs standard on the > larger 1800 cc "B" engine ? I have the carbs that came on the rebuilt motor > but they are not rebuilt and since they were questionable, I went with what > came off the previous motor. I didn't know their condition either, but they > physically looked to be in better shape. Would a pair of 1 3/4 inch SU's give > me any appreciable performance boost? If the carbs that came on the rebuilt > motor are actually the larger models I will have them rebuilt instead of the > ones I am using now. What cars were the larger SU's normally used on? Happy > Holidays, and Merry Xmas to all on the list. > > Bill Dillstrom Bill, I might be able to answer some of your questions, although I don't own a B. I have a well-loved Victor MG TF 1800, which is basically a complete MGB powertrain, suspension and brake system, mounted on a proprietary steel frame designed so that the layout of the B components mimics the TF geometry, with a fiberglass TF body and genuine TF chrome, bumpers, cloth top, etc. I use a special intake manifold and a single 1 3/4" HIF SU carb on my Cooper S. It provides adequate carburation for the very modified engine, it's free from the gravity problem and is easy to adjust. Since there's only one, the enormous hassle of trying to balance twins is eliminated. If I were in your shoes I would try adding the extra breathing ability you get by adding a set of K&N turbo cone filters and setting aside the standard air filter setup. Make sure you keep them clean and oiled properly. The HIF carb has the floatbowl built-in and centered under the carb body. The old style has the float bowls to the side of the carb. This introduced the problem that in a Mini, where the configuration was transverse, one carb would go too rich and the other would go lean in corners, where gravity could work on the fuel delivery. In straight ahead configurations like MG's and Healeys, it would be a similar imbalance, but during acceleration and braking, braking not being a problem, since no power is required from the engine, but acceleration was a major problem, because it could make the back two cylinders go lean at a really good time to cause maximum damage to valves, seats and pistons. The HIF cured this. It also incorporates a screw-operated mixture control instead of the very fiddly jet-centering and adjusting routine. Most of the ones I've seen are for a single application, but Scott beavis, from the Mini community, has a pair of HIF's mounted on his car, so I know the linkage can be worked out. I found that the more breathing ability I add, long-gap scatter cams and stage 3 heads, big exhausts and barely legal silencers, BIG carbs and freeflow filters, the more pronounced the ram effect becomes. As long as the fuel-air mix is continuing to take that little step back because of the valve overlap, the engine will produce normal, stodgy, power. As soon as the speed of the gas mix column reaches the point where the reversal in direction is impossible, the engine will take off like a goosed mule, resulting in that neck-snapping acceleration we love so well. If you use a standard cam, this isn't a problem and the more it can breathe freely, the better it will run, as long as the fuel delivery keeps up with the airflow. This is why I suggest a less restrictive air filter as a first step. -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 00:59:52 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: mgs Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 01:58:41 -0600 Subject: A Antics Tech Tips manual MGA owners: It is possible that Ron Embling of Britbooks http://www.britbooks.com may have some copies of the third edition of the "A-Antics Tech Tips" book. At least they are listed on his web site. Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 02:07:20 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 19:32:05 +1030 Subject: Re: Hi Good people.... michelle pountney wrote: > > the mid life crisis has bit hard and I'm suddenly the proud owner of a 1968 > Mk1 O/D MGB. Hey, I resemble that comment! > I'm hoping I can get some advice from time to time from more experianced > owners of the marque. But you might have to put up with people like me instead (seeing as I live just down the road from you). > She has a weber carby conversion and whilst the top end is great she > wont idle below 1000 RPM. Is this normal???? Sounds about right for a weber ;-) I'm sorry, but I still have not found a weber conversion that can either idle nicely or not have a gaping hole when you put the foot down from idle (the type that just about makes you put your face through the windscreen, especially when you are wearing just the lap seatbelt. My SUs are as smooth as silk all the way. > I live in Australia and with summer approaching was wondering if the > electric fan conversion is really worth the money???? > >From my experience and from the musings of fellow clubmembers, absolutely. Get rid of that horsepower sucking thing that the poor little motor has to spin around and get yourself a BIG electric fan (and thermostatic switch if, like me, you can tend to forget to switch the fan on on 38C degree days). There ya go. That is about as positive as you will ever get me, but expect different experiences from different owners in different countries and from different era (and with different year 'Bs). Now - where the heck in Australia are you? -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 05:44:40 2001 From: "Ryan, Wesley" To: "'Bob Howard'" , yd3@nvc.net Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 07:39:40 -0500 Subject: Clutch Problems Ok here is the story. I went to bleed the clutch this weekend and had some serious problems doing this. When pumping the clutch peddle the only thing that came out was some air and spits of fluid. I removed the line off of the clutch master cylinder and pumped the peddle and the only thing that came out was air although I had plenty of fluid in the chamber. When pumping the clutch master cylinder I had vacuum but no fluid. Am I missing something or does this sound like I need a new clutch master cylinder. Also your thoughts on a rebuilt one or a new one. Thanks again. Wesley Ryan Project Engineer GI Plastek Phone: 937-645-4018 Fax: 937-642-5326 Cell: 937-243-0909 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 06:22:53 2001 From: To: "Ryan, Wesley" , "'Bob Howard'" Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 12:58:01 -0000 Subject: Re: Clutch Problems Blocked port? Possibly due to perished seals? ----- Original Message ----- From: Ryan, Wesley To: 'Bob Howard' ; Cc: Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 12:39 PM Subject: Clutch Problems > I removed the line off of the > clutch master cylinder and pumped the peddle and the only thing that came > out was air although I had plenty of fluid in the chamber. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 07:32:11 2001 From: Bob Howard To: lundgren@byu.net Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 08:58:03 -0500 Subject: Re: Winterizing my "new" MGB The anti-freeze chemistry in the antifreeze seems to endure forever and ever, which may be why pouring it down the drain is not a good idea. It is said that ethelene (sp?) glycol was discovered to have the AF properties when someone looked out a window in the 1930s and found that the drain pond filled with it, a waste product from some other process, did not freeze. Folks had less ecological sensitivity back then. One changes AF periodically because the anti-corrosive additives in the AF do get worn out or consumed as they are sacrificed to protect against corrosion, as well as any water-pump lubricant chemistry that might be present. So, one can use the AF for year if he adds anti-corrosive chemistry to the coolant, but it's probably cheaper and safer to change the AF. Although our MGs do not have as many different metals as today's machinery, we still have iron blocks, iron heads, brass and copper radiators with lead solder, brass and copper heater cores, steel heater valves, copper head gaskets and more bits besides, each of which stands at a different level on the electrolytic scale. Does anyone remember the AF from the 70s that had some anti-leak stuff in it that clogged heater passages? Seemed a good idea at the time.... Bob On Sun, 02 Dec 2001 20:14:59 -0700 "Andrew B. Lundgren" writes: > I've lived in Colorado for most of my life, a few years in Utah. I > have run antifreeze that is many years old. (My MG doesn't get many > miles on in the winter, but other cars do, my B's is probably 2 > years > now...) You can buy a little gauge for about $5 US with some beads > in > it to measure how low you are protected it. You suck up some of > your > coolant, see what it says. It is a pretty good way of telling the > quality I think. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 08:00:40 2001 From: WSpohn4@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 09:59:48 EST Subject: Re: Carbs and B's In a message dated 12/2/01 11:46:38 PM Pacific Standard Time, owner-mgs-digest@autox.team.net writes: > . I put a pair of SU's on > this engine that were left over from the previous engine (1622 CC). I > assume > these that are currently in use are the 1 1/2 inch variety. I know there > are > also 1 3/4 inch SU's out there also. Were these larger carbs standard on > the > larger 1800 cc "B" engine ? I have the carbs that came on the rebuilt motor > but they are not rebuilt and since they were questionable, I went with what > came off the previous motor. I didn't know their condition either, but they > physically looked to be in better shape. Would a pair of 1 3/4 inch SU's > give > The HS4 carbs from the MGB engine are worth rebuilding - the flexible feed lines to the jet base are a more trustworthy way of conducting fuel than the cork seals used in the H4 of the MGA, although new types of seals have improved the situation somewhat. I turned on my Mk 2 coupe after 7 years of sitting, and it leaked fuel like a stuck pig. Had I used the B carbs, there would have been no problem. There is a small power gain to be had with fitting the 1 3/4" carbs (which were a special tuning option, but never stock on the MGB), but to get any more significant boost in power requires attention to gas flow in the head and intake tract and a change in camshaft, so if you don't intend to go that far, I'd be inclined to stick with the rebuilt HS4 carbs. Bill /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 10:34:05 2001 From: "Dereck C" To: mpountney@primus.com.au, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 17:33:18 +0000 Subject: Re:Hi Good people.... Welcome to the list Smithy. I can't help you with the weber idle but I can tell you when I lived in Brisbane a couple of years back I had a 67B with an electric fan. When I bought the car it had a blown head gasket. I had the head reconditioned and put a new gasket on it. I also changed the fan to a power lead supplied from a constant on power source (moved it from one connection on the fuse block to another). I did this so when I turned the car off the fan would run until the radiator temp was below 180 (about 3 minutes). Performance of the fan was questionable though (I didn't have a water pump mounted fan) it ran full time when the weather was warm. I would say it would be a nice supplemental feature. My current B (70 in Washington DC) is a different story. I had to recore the radiator this summer, used a higher cooling capacity core. Some even suggest going to an aluminum variety. I also switched to a plastic water pump mounted fan, added some foam in the area between the rad and the frame to make sure all of the air flow goes through the rad. Car almost runs too cool now, at least according to the gauge. Check out this link from a local club member. http://www.mgcarclubdc.com/radiator.html Dereck 70 B ---------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 17:55:44 +1100 From: "michelle pountney" Subject: Re:Hi Good people.... ...I live in Australia and with summer approaching was wondering if the electric fan conversion is really worth the money???? Thanks in anticipation. Mark Smith (Smithy from Oz) _________________________________________________________________ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 11:03:07 2001 From: Nory3@webtv.net (Nory) To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 13:02:01 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Was: Abingdon, Now: Snowy Weather (or lack thereof...) We just ended the first completely snow-free November in Buffalo EVER! Don't know if it has anything to do with global warming though - Last year, by this time, we had 45 inches of snow! The globe sure has warmed a lot in only a year! /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 11:19:48 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'mgs@autox.team.net'" Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 10:19:53 -0800 Subject: FW: Winterizing my "new" MGB Albert: You lovely person! There is NO WINTER IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA!!! It's wonderful that you have initiated a useful discussion, but since you live only a couple of miles from me I can guarantee that you don't even need antifreeze in your radiator! Out here in the coastal zone, your MGB will hardly know the difference between June and January. Just get out there and drive it. Back in Colorado my 70 MGB was my year round daily driver. I've got stories to tell regarding winter driving up in the Leadville area (10,000 ft). Back then the only winterizing involved was bolting on the four snow tires, and plugging in the block heater at night. To get an idea of the cold, one night I had to pour a pot of hot water over the Luminition ignition amp on my Austin Marina to get the thing to work! Ok, enough ranting. Albert, 20W50 is fine all year round here. Mix your antifreeze to recomendation for anti corrosion and wetting properties. Your dashpot oil should be a bit thinner than what you put in the engine. And I'm sorry, but I can't contain myself. When it rains, put the top up, and roll up the windows or the interior will get wet. Please forgive me. Kelvin. I'll hear hell for this at tomorrows club meeting. > Hi, > Could anyone please tell me what I should do in order to > prepare for "trouble > free" winter driving...I heard that I should change to a > 10w-40w or 5w-30 > change all the filters, check the battery, clean the battery > cables and > connections to earth and to the engine, I've noticed that my > radiator is > filled with a mixture that's mostly antifreeze and its still > very green, > should I also figure on changing it too, or is it still good > even if its over > a year old? How about the carburetor? Anybody know of a > website that has a > possible "winterizing list" that I could access and download? > I would like to > get this "winterizing" project done and out of the way before > next spring? Is > there anything that I should do to the Hood (top) and interior or any > thing else anyone can think of it would be most appreciated, > TIA, > Albert Escalante > ,1978 MGB > -=Safety Fast=- /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 11:38:44 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 12:32:13 -0600 Subject: Re: Howdy! paul.hunt1@virgin.net wrote: > > I bought a roller-bearing release bearing for a new clutch 'cos it seemed > like a good idea at the time. Then I read that these should be fitted with > an additional pull-off spring at the slave to stop them constantly rotating > and wearing out. Then I spoke to my supplier who denied all knowledge of > the spring or the problem. Then mine started 'wittering' after a few k > miles just as it starts to take up clutch pressure. Then I asked myself why > I had spent all that extra money - did my release bearings habitually wear > out before the clutch? No! Would I replace a clutch and reuse the old > (even if it were a roller-bearing) release bearing? No!! Paul, thanks for the advice! I do re-use throw-out bearings when I do a clutch on the Mini Cooper S, but you can replace the clutch easily and the bearing even more easily on the Minis, since the engine and transmission don't have to be separated in the transverse application. Getting the powertrain split on the Victor is a much more arduous task, so I want something that will last at least four or five years. Unless I hear enough input against the idea, guess I'll go with the graphite version. Question for the whole list: is there a particular brand, competition grade or other throw-out bearing that's superior to the others? Where can I obtain one? Money is not a problem. -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 13:13:54 2001 From: "Ryan, Wesley" To: "'Bob Howard'" , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 15:08:54 -0500 Subject: RE: Clutch Problems Just a quick thought. according to my theory by using a mityvac system (easy bleed) for a MC you are able to pull the fluid through without actually pumping the petal. if this is true by just opening the valve...eventually the fluid would run down. am I correct? The reason I ask this is when I removed the hose directly attached to the Master cylinder no fluid runs out at all. However if I push I hear the sound of air being sucked in. would all of you agree that there is clog somewhere in the MC. Wesley Ryan Project Engineer GI Plastek Phone: 937-645-4018 Fax: 937-642-5326 Cell: 937-243-0909 -----Original Message----- From: Bob Howard [mailto:mgbob@juno.com] Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 9:25 AM To: wryan@giplastek.com Subject: Re: Clutch Problems Wesley, Can you borrow a MityVac tool? If so, use its "vac" function to pull fluid from the slave cylinder's end of the hose. If you can't pull fluid, then either the hose is blocked (replace it every few years anyway) or there is blockage in the MC. MC (clutch) rebuilds are easy, so that's what I would recommend. Don't bother to rebuild the brake MCs--it's hateful and not likely to be successful, but clutch MC is worth trying. The kit is cheap, the hose is cheap, and the cost to you is frustration of not having a car you can drive. With luck, you can get it all rebuilt this week and be back on the road by Saturday. Bob /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 16:58:49 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: doddk@mossmotors.com Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 18:57:50 EST Subject: Re: Winterizing my "new" MGB Thanks Kelvin, Just because your gal has eaten once today, doesn't mean she can't eat dinner. too! To wit, I was only erring on the side of caution, because I love my little MGB, sooo much. And I just wanted to make sure I treated her perfectly. I'm still a-waiting the 2500 mile mark of our "relationship" soze I can hurry home and change her oil, if the magic moment happens over 50 miles from my house I will scoot over to the nearest Quicky-Lube and drain her spent 30w juices and replace them with new ones. Now that I know that my little white rubber bumpered gazelle doesn't need a multi-grade oil in her belly, I'll stick with Castrol 30wt. I've got a few more miles left on the antifreeze and I'll probably change that in early June or so when I backflush the radiator and check for any weak spots. I really want to thank all of the nice people that were quick to point out that an MG is a strong little bugger and not to fret and worry over her so much. I'll see you at Tomorrow's club meeting Kelvin, unless your working late Cheerio..-=Safety Fast=-Albert Escalante & the worlds most pampered MGB /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 17:31:08 2001 From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" To: , Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 19:31:06 -0600 Subject: Brake fluids While trying to keep myself on top of new technologies in the ever changing auto product market I came across Wagner brake fluid at one of the more diverse auto stores in my area. The specs were Dot 4 one can and Dot 5.1 on another. Anyone had any experience with these? Any good for British hydraulics? Neither one was silicone. What really caught my eye was one can said Lockheed on it in big bold letters. Fortunately I live in an area where we can obtain Castrol fluid but one never knows when you may need something else in a pinch. Just an inquiring mind, Thanks, Mark /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 18:42:51 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: "mgs@autox.team.net" Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 18:42:17 -0700 Subject: This went to another list I was on, but I think it applies... ==================BEGIN FORWARDED MESSAGE================== With the demise of @home.com and the resulting problems this is causing with people changing email addresses I thought I'd take a moment to remind all the list subscribers that if they are subscribed using a no longer, or soon to be no longer valid address, they need to unsubscribe the old address and subscribe a new one. This can be done with a single email. Send an email to majordomo@team.net with any subject and the following in the body of the email: UNSUBSCRIBE mgs myemail@home.com SUBSCRIBE mgs mynewemail@mynewhost.com END Of course making sure to change the actual email addresses to your old and new ones. ;-) -- Andrew Lundgren lundgren@byu.net http://www.itwest.net/~lundgren /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 20:01:06 2001 From: "James H. Nazarian, Ph.D." To: "Ryan, Wesley" Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 20:59:31 -0500 Subject: Re: Clutch Problems "Ryan, Wesley" wrote: > > Just a quick thought. according to my theory by using a mityvac system (easy bleed) for a MC you are able to pull the fluid through without actually pumping the petal. if this is true by just opening the valve...eventually the fluid would run down. am I correct? The reason I ask this is when I removed the hose directly attached to the Master cylinder no fluid runs out at all. However if I push I hear the sound of air being sucked in. would all of you agree that there is clog somewhere in the MC. > I went through the exact same routine two weeks ago with my son's 1972 MGB. I used to have an EeeZee Bleed. I always had good luck with it until I lost it. For some reason that now evades me, I bought a MityVac this time. I did not have good results with it. I was not able to get a good suction from the clutch slave nipple; if the nipple is loose enough to let fluid pass, it is also loose enough to allow air to be drawn through to the MityVac. I think that sound we both heard is a big ol' air bubble at the back end of the MC piston. The EeeZee Bleed would push fluid down to the nipple in one continuous motion from it's own reservoir. The MityVac can't do that given the design of the MG Clutch Slave Bleeder Nipple. That is just my frustrated opinion. I have every expectation that I will have to buy an EeeZee Bleed to finish this job. -- Jim microdoc@zoominternet.net 1960 MGA 1600 Very Red 1974 MGB-GT Damask (Very Burgundy) Red /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 20:02:34 2001 From: GW71MGB@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 22:01:36 EST Subject: Re: MGB Rear Hub Removal Thanks for all the responses. What got me confused about finding a socket that fit is that the replacement hub I bought (almost a year ago) turned out to be a wrong hub! The ID of the replacement hub I bought was quite a bit smaller than that of the proper MGB hub. Even a thin wall socket wouldn't fit. For those others of you who expressed interest in the same question: The required socket size is indeed 1-5/16". I was able to order a perfectly good socket from McMaster Carr for around $ 10 USD. (For anyone who hasn't tried their site: it's great. Access to tens of thousands of items, and I received it in one day.). It turns out that the driver's side hub nut was really seized. I ended up using a punch through the cotter pin access hole, and whacking the castle nut loose a bit at a time. Anyways, I ended up ordering two new rear hubs from Moss (expensive, but finding good used rear hubs is quite a challenge - there are plenty of good front hubs out there, though.) My '71 MGB is back on it's own four wheels for the first time in a year. By the way, can anyone identify this hub? The wheel splines are standard Brit wire wheel pitch, the the ID spline that goes on the axle shaft is very different from an MGB: it has only six splines. I want to put it back up for sale, but I don't know what it goes to. A picture is available at : http://members.aol.com/gw71mgb/hub.jpg Thanks for the help, Gary /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 20:09:33 2001 From: "Peter C." To: Spridgets Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 16:45:04 -0600 Subject: JustBrits aka Voldemort Contrary to popular desi....errrr.. belief, Ed is in business, though his email is down due to the ATT-Excite situation. He can be reached via phone. Info at his site JustBrits.com He says he misses you all.... Peter C. Just passing through.... /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 20:43:25 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 22:42:38 EST Subject: Re: FW: Winterizing my "new" MGB So Just when I thought I knew nearly all there was to know about "Winterizing" my MGB, what do I find but a really great DIY article that I was able to download and put into my "TO DO" folder so that I can go down the list of things to do to "properly" winterize my B before the cold, cold 50 degree winter temperatures "HIT" So. Cal. this year.....Soon...I think...Maybe! Either way, I shall B prepared...Call me Kelvin if you need I ride to work some chilly 40 degree day (yes we even have ICE somedays) I have ice scrappers in the boot of my Jaguars and my MGB! Check out the great article at:>> http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/43799/article.html<< It really is very informative, even for know it alls like myself (NOT!) Albert Escalante, 1978 MGB, 1977 XJ-6L, 1985 XJ6 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 20:56:01 2001 From: Aaron Whiteman To: Aeseeyou@aol.com Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 19:55:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: FW: Winterizing my "new" MGB On Mon, 3 Dec 2001 Aeseeyou@aol.com wrote: > list of things to do to "properly" winterize my B before the cold, cold 50 > degree winter temperatures "HIT" So. Cal. this year.....Soon...I Oh stop that! Just remember, as you are shivering in that "cold, cold" weather, that some of us are out enjoying our B's in the 20's, snow be damned. The rule of sun still applies too. 20 degrees? Well the sun is out, that top is coming down! Aside from the sunshine, you can reach over the windscreen to clear the frozen road wash that collects on it when your washer craps out. -- My opinions are mine, and do not reflect the view of the university. http://www.pharmacy.wsu.edu/users/awhitema/ Security, like correctness, is not an add-on feature. -- Andrew S. Tanenbaum /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 21:51:23 2001 From: Montgomery Morris To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 22:52:54 -0800 Subject: GREEN WIRE NOT HOT Thanks to those of you that helped me find the prob with my gauges-the car went to the mechanic with everything working (with the minor exception that it wouldn't RUN) and came back running but with no gauges, flashers,etc. It ended up being the ignition relay (which had tested out OK before going to the shop). Until tomorrow, and the next question :) Monte /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 3 22:10:43 2001 From: dave houser To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 00:09:34 -0800 Subject: speedo advice Good folks, Can anyone out there who knows or has had their speedo calibrated tell me what speed their 64B runs at 3200 rpm. I did not recalibrate the car after putting on new Pirelli P400 175x70-14's on my NOS Minilites.(no O/D yet) I'm getting 60mph@3200rpm and I don't think I'm at 60 actual. Otherwise it's find a stopwatch and chase mile markers on the highway(hey Dave, why not just recalibrate?) TIA, Dave Houser /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 00:26:21 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 01:03:42 -0600 Subject: Re: FW: Winterizing my "new" MGB Aaron Whiteman wrote: > > On Mon, 3 Dec 2001 Aeseeyou@aol.com wrote: > > > list of things to do to "properly" winterize my B before the cold, cold 50 > > degree winter temperatures "HIT" So. Cal. this year.....Soon...I > > Oh stop that! Just remember, as you are shivering in that "cold, > cold" weather, that some of us are out enjoying our B's in the 20's, > snow be damned. The rule of sun still applies too. 20 degrees? > Well the sun is out, that top is coming down! Aside from the > sunshine, you can reach over the windscreen to clear the frozen road > wash that collects on it when your washer craps out. Use a cloth to wipe your headlamps clean from time to time. It will provide much brighter lighting on those back lanes and keep you and the car alive. -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 03:47:14 2001 From: To: "Aaron Whiteman" , Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:45:23 -0000 Subject: Re: FW: Winterizing my "new" MGB > ... you can reach over the windscreen to clear the frozen road > wash that collects on it when your washer craps out. What has been noticeable when using the V8 in very (for the UK) cold weather is the number of modern cars that have to stop on the motorway to clear their screens by hand 'cos the washer system has frozen up. I had a Vauxhall where the bottle was in the front wing and was frozen solid for a week despite having an 'antifreeze' solution. The nozzles also freeze up as being further down the bonnet than on a B they are in the freezing air-stream and get super cooled. By contrast the V8 has its bottle high up at the back of of the engine compartment and the nozzles and bulk of the tubing are effectively in the cabin. I've never known them freeze even with plain water. PaulH. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 04:05:54 2001 From: To: "Dereck C" , , Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:56:18 -0000 Subject: Re: Re:Hi Good people.... > ... Some even > suggest going to an aluminum variety. The MGOC has just started selling alu rads for MGs, at UKP399 for a centre-fill MGB. This compares with UKP79 for the OE style. > ... Car almost runs too > cool now, at least according to the gauge. Shouldn't if the stat is working correctly, except possibly in very low ambients where the cooling from the surfaces of the block and hoses and the heater exceeds the heat output of combustion. PaulH. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 04:27:08 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 20:04:22 +1030 Subject: Re: Howdy! Rocky Frisco wrote: > > Question for the whole list: is there a particular brand, > competition grade or other throw-out bearing that's superior to the > others? Where can I obtain one? Money is not a problem. > Money is not a problem? I think I can find a real beaut one I can ship you from Australia :-) Welcome back Rocky! -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 05:28:14 2001 From: "Ken Waringa" To: "James H. Nazarian, Ph.D." , Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 06:26:47 -0600 Subject: RE: Clutch Problems When I rebuilt the brake master cylinder on my son's 79 B I couldn't get fluid pumping through for anything. I must have tried for 2 hours with no luck, and a lot of frustration. I finally came up with a simple idea that worked perfectly. I had a spare filler cap for the master cylinder. I drilled about a 3/8 inch hole through it. I then adjusted the pressure on my compressor down to about 5 psi. I opened one bleed valve at a time and applied pressure to the master cylinder with a rubber tipped blow gun. It pushed the fluid through with no problems. It was the easiest bleed job I ever did, and it didn't cost me a fortune. I just finished rebuilding the master cylinder on my 80 B last night. After I get the calipers finished and remounted I intend to use the same method for bleeding this one. Does anyone have the secret for installing the metal retainers with out bending them in the calipers? Those things are a royal pain to get in. Ken -----Original Message----- From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James H. Nazarian, Ph.D. Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 8:00 PM To: Ryan, Wesley Cc: 'Bob Howard'; mgs@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Clutch Problems "Ryan, Wesley" wrote: > > Just a quick thought. according to my theory by using a mityvac system (easy bleed) for a MC you are able to pull the fluid through without actually pumping the petal. if this is true by just opening the valve...eventually the fluid would run down. am I correct? The reason I ask this is when I removed the hose directly attached to the Master cylinder no fluid runs out at all. However if I push I hear the sound of air being sucked in. would all of you agree that there is clog somewhere in the MC. > I went through the exact same routine two weeks ago with my son's 1972 MGB. I used to have an EeeZee Bleed. I always had good luck with it until I lost it. For some reason that now evades me, I bought a MityVac this time. I did not have good results with it. I was not able to get a good suction from the clutch slave nipple; if the nipple is loose enough to let fluid pass, it is also loose enough to allow air to be drawn through to the MityVac. I think that sound we both heard is a big ol' air bubble at the back end of the MC piston. The EeeZee Bleed would push fluid down to the nipple in one continuous motion from it's own reservoir. The MityVac can't do that given the design of the MG Clutch Slave Bleeder Nipple. That is just my frustrated opinion. I have every expectation that I will have to buy an EeeZee Bleed to finish this job. -- Jim microdoc@zoominternet.net 1960 MGA 1600 Very Red 1974 MGB-GT Damask (Very Burgundy) Red /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 05:40:39 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Nory , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 04:40:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Was: Abingdon, Now: Snowy Weather (or lack thereof...) Nory, I think the Bills could use some snow up there! Dan D (former Rochesterian) --- Nory wrote: > We just ended the first completely snow-free November in Buffalo EVER! Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 07:02:10 2001 From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" To: "Ken Waringa" , Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 08:51:16 -0600 Subject: Re: Clutch Problems Ken, I know what you mean. Rebuilt calipers with a life time warrantee is the only way to go. Most of the major local parts suppliers can get these over night now and prices are very affordable. A learned experience. Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: Ken Waringa To: James H. Nazarian, Ph.D. ; Ryan, Wesley Cc: 'Bob Howard' ; Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 6:26 AM Subject: RE: Clutch Problems > Does anyone have the secret for installing the metal retainers with out > bending them in the calipers? Those things are a royal pain to get in. > > Ken /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 07:04:44 2001 From: "O'CONNORS, CHARLIE" To: "Mgs (E-mail)" , Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 08:59:06 -0500 Subject: Operation Dear Abby 2001 Since 1967, when Sgt. Billy Thompson wrote Abigail Van Buren and mentioned that a wonderful Christmas present to our armed forces would be "just a letter from home," American citizens have been sending holiday wishes to servicemen and women stationed overseas every holiday season. Dubbed "Operation Dear Abby," the program has brought holiday joy to hundreds of thousands of U.S. military personnel deployed away from home. Concerns about mail delivery have prompted the military to suspend this year's letter-writing campaign. However, the United States Department of the Navy's LifeLines2000 Services Network in association with SPAWAR SCC-NCR is providing this private and secure online resource that will allow you to send a Sailor, Marine, Soldier, Airman or Coast Guardsman a holiday greeting. To send a message to our men and women in the armed forces, please follow the address below. Happy Holidays! Charlie O'Connors http://anyservicemember.navy.mil/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 07:09:15 2001 From: matttrebelhorn@netscape.net (Matthew Trebelhorn) To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 09:08:29 -0500 Subject: RE: Re: MGB Rear Hub Removal Is that the hub for a banjo axle MGB? I recall them having fewer, larger splines between the axle and the hub, and being a smaller i.d. than the tube axle hub. Matt GW71MGB@aol.com wrote: >Thanks for all the responses. What got me confused about finding a socket >that fit is that the replacement hub I bought (almost a year ago) turned out >to be a wrong hub! The ID of the replacement hub I bought was quite a bit >smaller than that of the proper MGB hub. Even a thin wall socket wouldn't >fit. > >For those others of you who expressed interest in the same question: The >required socket size is indeed 1-5/16". I was able to order a perfectly good >socket from McMaster Carr for around $ 10 USD. (For anyone who hasn't tried >their site: it's great. Access to tens of thousands of items, and I received >it in one day.). > >It turns out that the driver's side hub nut was really seized. I ended up >using a punch through the cotter pin access hole, and whacking the castle nut >loose a bit at a time. > >Anyways, I ended up ordering two new rear hubs from Moss (expensive, but >finding good used rear hubs is quite a challenge - there are plenty of good >front hubs out there, though.) My '71 MGB is back on it's own four wheels >for the first time in a year. > >By the way, can anyone identify this hub? The wheel splines are standard >Brit wire wheel pitch, the the ID spline that goes on the axle shaft is very >different from an MGB: it has only six splines. I want to put it back up for >sale, but I don't know what it goes to. > >A picture is available at : http://members.aol.com/gw71mgb/hub.jpg > >Thanks for the help, >Gary -- __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 07:31:20 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 00:30:57 +1030 Subject: Chicken Why can you only have two doors on a chicken coop? If it had four it would be a chicken sedan. -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia "Two wrongs don't make a right, but three rights make a left" /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 07:50:56 2001 From: "Ryan, Wesley" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 09:46:17 -0500 Subject: Clutch Problems Last question? What is the best fluid for the clutch master cylinder? Thanks everyone for their help. I have a new MC and slave cylinder on its way. I am going to try it this weekend. if all goes well I will be on the road by Sunday. Wesley Ryan Project Engineer GI Plastek Phone: 937-645-4018 Fax: 937-642-5326 Cell: 937-243-0909 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 08:03:47 2001 From: "Paul T. Root" To: dave houser Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 09:03:08 -0600 Subject: Re: speedo advice x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" There is a tire size speedometer calculator somewhere on miata.net. A friend of mine showed me last week. I'm looking for it but aren't having much luck. When he gets into work, I'll get the link. It was pretty cool. Paul. On Tue, Dec 04, 2001 at 12:09:34AM -0800, dave houser wrote: > Good folks, > Can anyone out there who knows or has had their speedo calibrated tell > me what speed their 64B runs at 3200 rpm. I did not recalibrate the car > after putting on new Pirelli P400 175x70-14's on my NOS Minilites.(no > O/D yet) > I'm getting 60mph@3200rpm and I don't think I'm at 60 actual. > Otherwise it's find a stopwatch and chase mile markers on the > highway(hey Dave, why not just recalibrate?) > TIA, > Dave Houser -- "The very best, and oldest, computer system built by man is Stonehenge. Built by the Druids, who didn`t die out, but went bankrupt trying to debug the software." --unknown /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 08:28:17 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: eric@erickson.on.net Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:27:34 EST Subject: Re: Chicken Eric, Then what is a chicken coop without a roof? Is it a "chicken roadster or convertible?" Oh, by the way is it true that Australia is so beautiful it can literally take your breathe away with its sweeping panoramas that just boggle the senses with their heady banquet of color, sights and sounds. I would love to visit there some day..being in love with the place ever since I read "The Thornbirds" It would be a blast to go over and search for one of the lost D-types or possibly a pre-war MG or TR. Maybe you could show me 'n the Misses around a bit.... Albert Escalante, 1978 MGB (now definitely, fully "Winterized") /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 08:35:10 2001 From: "WCAMEYER" To: "The MG List" Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 08:34:35 -0700 Subject: Dipstick Tube Installation Can any body help me with this? I've already ruined one by "tapping" it too energetically with a plastic hammer. Also, I have 4.875" of it showing while another engine shows only 4.5". Had to tap it a bit, remove it and hit it with a wire wheel, tap again, etc. Bill /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 08:37:33 2001 From: David Councill To: mgs Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 08:36:29 -0700 Subject: windshield My windshield for my 72B restoration has a crack in it. So my question - is it better to replace the glass with the windshield assembly on or off the car? Or does it matter? Right now, its off the car. I got it with a parts car to replace the one on the car. It already had a new rubber seal installed on the bottom so it will probably take some pressure to get it on the car. I think the car will be ready for the windshield shortly so I need to know whether I need to get the glass fixed right away or not. David /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 08:43:26 2001 From: Ajhsys@aol.com To: mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:42:34 EST Subject: Re: Brake fluids In a message dated 12/3/01 7:32:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net writes: > While trying to keep myself on top of new technologies in the ever > changing auto product market I came across Wagner brake fluid at one of the > more diverse auto stores in my area. The specs were Dot 4 one can and Dot > 5.1 on another. > Anyone had any experience with these? Any good for British > hydraulics? - - - - - - - - - - - - - Both will work fine. And that's all I have to say about that. Allen Hefner SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward '77 Midget '75 Midget "The Project" '92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 08:44:32 2001 From: Ajhsys@aol.com To: kwaringa@dynsys.com Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:42:37 EST Subject: Re: Clutch Problems In a message dated 12/4/01 7:29:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, kwaringa@dynsys.com writes: > Does anyone have the secret for installing the metal retainers with out > bending them in the calipers? Those things are a royal pain to get in. - - - - - - - - - - - - - I made a small disk out of thin plywood that fits over the retainer. The piston and the retaining ring should be even, and pressed into the cylinder at the same time. Apply even pressure with a C-clamp and if you are lucky, the ring will go right in. Too much pressure and it will crumble. Nudge the ring around it's edges with a screwdriver to encourage it to go in. Slow going is best. Once you have done it this way, it gets easier the next time. Allen Hefner SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward '77 Midget '75 Midget "The Project" '92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 08:44:18 2001 From: Ajhsys@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:42:37 EST Subject: Re: Clutch Problems In a message dated 12/4/01 9:03:07 AM Eastern Standard Time, mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net writes: > I know what you mean. Rebuilt calipers with a life time warrantee is > the only way to go. Most of the major local parts suppliers can get these > over night now and prices are very affordable. A learned experience. - - - - - - - - - - - I must respectfully disagree. Calipers are a peice of cake to rebuild. Since the cylinders don't have to be perfect, you can replace scratched or corroded pistons and (with new seals) you have basically new calipers. This is cheaper than to do several times over the cost of one set of lifetime rebuilts, and it adds to your knowledge of repairing your own car, and makes you feel great for a job well done! I put rebuilding calipers on my list of easy projects. For newbie mechanics, it is probably a bit down the list from oil changes and radiator swaps, basically because of the safety factor brake repairs imply. No flames please, Mark. This is my opinion and you are welcome to yours. I'm sure there are others out there who feel the same way as you, and some who prefer to rebuild. Allen Hefner SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward '77 Midget '75 Midget "The Project" '92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 08:47:10 2001 From: Jaco Greeff To: David Councill Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 17:44:07 +0200 Subject: Re: windshield David Councill wrote: > My windshield for my 72B restoration has a crack in it. So my question - is > it better to replace the glass with the windshield assembly on or off the > car? Or does it matter? David, About a year or so ago I read an article about replacing windscreens in "Practical Classics". From what I can remember they did it step by step on the car. For a B roadster however, it might just be easier to do it off altough I see no reason one way or another. (Man, o man, am I helping here or what?) Greetings, Jaco '73 B Roadster (Restoration almost done - one week to go) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 08:49:46 2001 From: Ajhsys@aol.com To: wryan@giplastek.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:49:11 EST Subject: Re: Clutch Problems In a message dated 12/4/01 9:52:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, wryan@giplastek.com writes: > Last question? What is the best fluid for the clutch master cylinder? Thanks - - - - - - - - - - Same brake fluid you use in the brakes. DOT 4 or DOT 5.1. Allen Hefner SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward '77 Midget '75 Midget "The Project" '92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 09:37:48 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net (mgs) Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 11:36:49 EST Subject: Re: windshield A question, whenever I wash my car or wipe off any excess water from the cowl area or lower windscreen area along the rubber seal or gasket I invariably end up with a black streak or watery black mess, and being that my "B" is painted Leyland or Colonial white this is very unbecoming and to make maters worse unless I completely dry and clean up these messy black streaks as the occur, then I must wash this part of the car all over again. Is there something I can treat this with? From what I can ascertain this is a rather commonplace problem but is it necessary to completely replace the rubber seal or gasket and if I have to resort this rather severe measure what are the costs involved. I hope that there is some sort of dressing that can seal the rubber thereby stopping the streaking which is even started by dripping water from the morning fog (since I live less than a mile from the ocean the car is wet almost every morning, and sometimes in the early evening, too!) Any help would be appreciated as I have already ruined a couple of tee shirts when I went wipe off the windscreen and brushed up against the gasket (Yuuck!) Albert Escalante 1978 MGB /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 09:50:49 2001 From: "Paul T. Root" To: dave houser Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:49:46 -0600 Subject: Re: speedo advice I found it: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html or go to www.miata.net, click on garage, click on Tire Size Calculator and CAmparator Paul. On Tue, Dec 04, 2001 at 09:03:08AM -0600, Paul T. Root wrote: > There is a tire size speedometer calculator somewhere on miata.net. > A friend of mine showed me last week. I'm looking for it but aren't > having much luck. When he gets into work, I'll get the link. It > was pretty cool. > > Paul. > > On Tue, Dec 04, 2001 at 12:09:34AM -0800, dave houser wrote: > > Good folks, > > Can anyone out there who knows or has had their speedo calibrated tell > > me what speed their 64B runs at 3200 rpm. I did not recalibrate the car > > after putting on new Pirelli P400 175x70-14's on my NOS Minilites.(no > > O/D yet) > > I'm getting 60mph@3200rpm and I don't think I'm at 60 actual. > > Otherwise it's find a stopwatch and chase mile markers on the > > highway(hey Dave, why not just recalibrate?) > > TIA, > > Dave Houser /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 09:51:31 2001 From: "WCAMEYER" To: "David Councill" , "mgs" Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 09:49:30 -0700 Subject: Re: windshield It has to be done off the car. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 09:59:08 2001 From: Nory3@webtv.net (Nory) To: d_dibiase@yahoo.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 11:58:36 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Was: Abingdon, Now: Snowy Weather (or lack thereof...) Yeah, maybe they Bills would get lost in the snow on the way to the stadium and we won't have to watch them play! (sorry, this is REALLY off-topic now!) Received: from smtpin-101-6.bryant.webtv.net (209.240.198.40) by storefull-297.iap.bryant.webtv.net with WTV-SMTP; Tue, 4 Dec 2001 04:40:42 -0800 (PST) Received: by smtpin-101-6.bryant.webtv.net (WebTV_Postfix+sws) id 4BB52160; Tue, 4 Dec 2001 04:40:44 -0800 (PST) Delivered-To: nory3@webtv.net Received: from web20604.mail.yahoo.com (web20604.mail.yahoo.com [216.136.226.162]) by smtpin-101-6.bryant.webtv.net (WebTV_Postfix+sws) with SMTP id 1067314E for ; Tue, 4 Dec 2001 04:40:44 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <20011204124006.7688.qmail@web20604.mail.yahoo.com> Received: from [32.102.5.21] by web20604.mail.yahoo.com via HTTP; Tue, 04 Dec 2001 04:40:06 PST Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 04:40:06 -0800 (PST) From: Dan DiBiase Subject: Re: Was: Abingdon, Now: Snowy Weather (or lack thereof...) To: Nory , mgs@autox.team.net In-Reply-To: <23913-3C0BBE19-439@storefull-291.iap.bryant.webtv.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Nory, I think the Bills could use some snow up there! Dan D (former Rochesterian) --- Nory wrote: > We just ended the first completely snow-free November in Buffalo EVER! Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 10:15:31 2001 From: To: , "mgs" Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 16:59:01 -0000 Subject: Re: windshield Do you mean the sealant is oozing from under the rubber seal or the seal itself is perished? I have had the former on hot days here in the UK soon after fitting, removed with white spirit on a cloth. But since I don't wash or polish mine in such temps I have never smeared it as you describe. Not seen a perished rubber seal that smears onto paint either. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: mgs Cc: Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 4:36 PM Subject: Re: windshield > A question, whenever I wash my car or wipe off any excess water from the cowl > area or lower windscreen area along the rubber seal or gasket I invariably > end up with a black streak or watery black mess /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 10:19:52 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: mgs Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 11:11:33 -0600 Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation Bill: If the tube bent or collapsed while "tapping in" you could decrease the interference fit some by sanding the tube. Another way to prevent collapsing is to insert a rod into the tube which is the same OD as the tubes ID or sand. Sand is used interally sometimes in tubes to prevent their collapsing while bending tubing. Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 10:19:45 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 11:05:28 -0600 Subject: Re: Clutch Problems To non owners of the Ezebleed: That's basically how the Ezebleed system works except it has a large capacity external bottle which refills the master cylinder. The external bottle is connected to the master, and air pressure is applied to the external bottle. This forces "brake" fluid into the master, which becomes pressurized. The pressure then forces fluid out of the master into the hydraulic lines. One could make up their own Ezebleed system if you can find a PLASTIC sealable bottle capable of handling the air pressure used. Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 10:25:45 2001 From: JERTIGGER2@cs.com To: Aeseeyou@aol.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 12:25:09 EST Subject: Re: windshield In a message dated 12/4/2001 11:39:44 AM Eastern Standard Time, Aeseeyou@aol.com writes: > Any help would be appreciated as I have already ruined a > couple of tee shirts when I went wipe off the windscreen and brushed up > against the gasket (Yuuck!) Albert Escalante 1978 MGB > If it was mine I would et a can of spray paint made for rubber and vinyl from an upholstery shop, tape it off and paint it. Jerry Rein /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 11:06:57 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 11:24:05 -0600 Subject: Re: Howdy! Eric wrote: > > Rocky Frisco wrote: > > > > Question for the whole list: is there a particular brand, > > competition grade or other throw-out bearing that's superior to the > > others? Where can I obtain one? Money is not a problem. > > Money is not a problem? > I think I can find a real beaut one I can ship you from Australia :-) Well, money is always a problem to some extent: I can't afford to buy the beautiful American Bantam convertible I just located. On the other hand, Even a top-rated competition grade throw-out bearing shouldn't cost more than twenty or thirty quid at most. ;) > Welcome back Rocky! Thanks! -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 11:10:22 2001 From: "British Sportscar Center" To: "Bullwinkle" , "mgs" Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:10:12 -0800 Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation Hmmm, let's see now. We fill the tube with sand to prevent it bending, but we don't want the sand to run out the bottom of the tube so we, what, cover it with duct tape? But, then, the duct tape makes to OD of the tube larger so it won't go into the hole. Guess that won't work. OK, we plug the bottom of the tube with a piece of wood. Yeah, that keeps the sand in. Now we can beat the tube down into the block without it deforming - much. Good, it's in far enough. What's next? Oh yes, get the sand and the plug out without allowing either to drop down into the oil in the oil pan......... Back to you, Blake? Lawrie (very much with tongue in cheek.....) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bullwinkle" To: "mgs" Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 9:11 AM Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation > Bill: > > If the tube bent or collapsed while "tapping in" you could decrease the > interference fit some by sanding the tube. Another way to prevent collapsing is > to insert a rod into the tube which is the same OD as the tubes ID or sand. > Sand is used interally sometimes in tubes to prevent their collapsing while > bending tubing. > > Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 11:29:54 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: "Paul T. Root" Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 11:44:33 -0600 Subject: Re: speedo advice x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" "Paul T. Root" wrote: > > There is a tire size speedometer calculator somewhere on miata.net. > A friend of mine showed me last week. I'm looking for it but aren't > having much luck. When he gets into work, I'll get the link. It > was pretty cool. Try this link: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 12:13:25 2001 From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 11:09:35 -0800 Subject: Re: Winterizing my "new" MGB Ok you guys are getting nuts!!! I am driving my B every day to anf from work adding at least 200-300 miles every week in the snow up here in british columbia (and yes in the nice weather I do drop the top, I had it off sunday all day) There is curently 6 inches of snow on the ground and it is -1 degrees centigrade (just below freezing) I winterized my B by changing the antifreeze, oil (20-50) and covering up 3/4 of my rad and oil cooler with cardboard. My car lives outside in the driveway with 2 hondas and a ford exploder and starts even when it get to -6. My advice is your winter in so. cal. is probably the same as my spring just give it an oil change (you should at least 4 times a year) make shure the antifreeze is up and place card board infront of the rad till it mantains the "normal temp". Adam "I am Canadian" Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 13:02:41 2001 From: Paul Root To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 14:02:01 -0600 Subject: [Fwd: Returned mail: see transcript for details] Here's another tire calculator. It includes offset and wheel width. http://www.tolan-hoechst.com/cars/tirecalc.htm -- Paul T. Root E/Mail: proot@iaces.com 600 Stinson Blvd, Fl 1S PAG: +1 (877) 693-7155 Minneapolis, MN 55413 WRK: +1 (612) 664-3385 NIC: PTR FAX: +1 (612) 664-4779 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 13:19:31 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: British Sportscar Center Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 14:18:06 -0600 Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation Lawrie: He didn't say it was an assembled engine did he? Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 13:24:06 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 14:22:57 -0600 Subject: Re: Winterizing my "new" MGB <<>> Ok you guys are getting nuts!!! I am driving my B every day to anf from work adding at least 200-300 miles every week in the snow up here in british columbia (and yes in the nice weather I do drop the top, I had it off sunday all day) There is curently 6 inches of snow on the ground and it is -1 degrees centigrade (just below freezing) I winterized my B by changing the antifreeze, oil (20-50) and covering up 3/4 of my rad and oil cooler with cardboard. <<>> Pretty much standard proceedure here for many cars. Especially for cars with marginal cabin heaters. We also use coolant heaters overnight. IMO, the best are the soft plug type. Six inches on the ground, 30F and rain or snow for tonight. Blake South Dakota /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 13:44:09 2001 From: "British Sportscar Center" To: "Bullwinkle" Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 12:44:26 -0800 Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation Not specifically, Blake, but loose dipstick tubes are not an uncommon problem on MGBs, and there existed - in my mind, at least - the possibility that someone might try to follow your advice on an assembled engine which had a loose tube. Better a cautionary note ahead of time than a lengthy response in the future to the question "how do I get sand out of the oil passages in my engine......?" Lawrie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bullwinkle" To: "British Sportscar Center" Cc: "mgs" Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 12:18 PM Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation > Lawrie: > > He didn't say it was an assembled engine did he? > > Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 13:53:36 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Aeseeyou@aol.com, eric@erickson.on.net Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 12:53:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Chicken Albert, you're confusing Australia with New Jersey, I believe.... --- Aeseeyou@aol.com wrote: so beautiful it can literally take your breathe away with its sweeping panoramas that just boggle the senses with their heady banquet of color, sights and sounds. ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) '66-ish 18GB-U-H 39633 NAMGBR #5-2328 Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 14:17:36 2001 From: Aaron Whiteman To: Bullwinkle Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 13:16:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Winterizing my "new" MGB On Tue, 4 Dec 2001, Bullwinkle wrote: > Six inches on the ground, 30F and rain or snow for tonight. Four inches on the ground, 33F (feels like 22), rain for later today, snow tonight. Currently perfect driving weather (brisk and sunny). Too bad I have to work instead. -- My opinions are mine, and do not reflect the view of the university. http://www.pharmacy.wsu.edu/users/awhitema/ Security, like correctness, is not an add-on feature. -- Andrew S. Tanenbaum /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 14:19:35 2001 From: David Littlefield To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 15:13:40 -0600 Subject: Strange virus experience I just received a virus from myself. I received an email from an old email address of mine that has been inactive for over two years. It contained part of a document I created years ago, as well as an attached .exe file that I deleted. The address did not have the _ before the email address. If any of you receive an email in my name from dmeadow@flash.net, delete immediately. David Littlefield '62 MGA MkII '51 MGTD '74 MG Midget vintage racer '88 Jaguar XJ-S ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 16:35:35 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: mgs Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 17:11:32 -0600 Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation Lawrie: Are some people really that dumb? Blake <<>> Not specifically, Blake, but loose dipstick tubes are not an uncommon problem on MGBs, and there existed - in my mind, at least - the possibility that someone might try to follow your advice on an assembled engine which had a loose tube. Better a cautionary note ahead of time than a lengthy response in the future to the question "how do I get sand out of the oil passages in my engine......?" /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 16:40:39 2001 From: "Paul T. Root" To: Bullwinkle Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 17:39:09 -0600 Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation On Tue, Dec 04, 2001 at 05:11:32PM -0600, Bullwinkle wrote: > Lawrie: > > Are some people really that dumb? Never underestimate the stupidity of people. Remember, everytime you hear or read a warning label, it's because some idiot decided that "wouldn't it be cool if..." > Blake > > <<>> > Not specifically, Blake, but loose dipstick tubes are not an uncommon > problem on MGBs, and there existed - in my mind, at least - the possibility > that someone might try to follow your advice on an assembled engine which > had a loose tube. Better a cautionary note ahead of time than a lengthy > response in the future to the question "how do I get sand out of the oil > passages in my engine......?" -- You don't need a quadrophonic Blaupunkt -- what you need is a curve ball! --from "Bill Durham" /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 18:06:47 2001 From: Barrie Robinson To: mgs@autox.team.net, mgb-v8@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 20:06:25 -0500 Subject: And yet another VIRUS Today at noon a new virus hit my friends company and they are in dim straits because users keep opening up the damn attachment. It comes as a message with a screen saver !! So users keep wanting to see the screen saver!! Apparently the fix for it is out as of this afternoon So do not open any screen savers sent to you and update your virus definitions asap Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 18:34:37 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 19:32:23 -0600 Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation Bullwinkle wrote: > > Lawrie: > > Are some people really that dumb? > > Blake > > <<>> > Not specifically, Blake, but loose dipstick tubes are not an uncommon > problem on MGBs, and there existed - in my mind, at least - the possibility > that someone might try to follow your advice on an assembled engine which > had a loose tube. Better a cautionary note ahead of time than a lengthy > response in the future to the question "how do I get sand out of the oil > passages in my engine......?" The answer is "Yes." I clearly recall the guy in Canada who carefully followed the information in his manual and "washed" his carbs in "Parafin." The only "parafin" he could find was the clear wax used to seal jars of preserves, so he melted a block of it and dipped the carbs in it. Of course, they never worked again. Only after this did he learn that in the UK, "parafin" is what we call kerosene. -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 20:10:54 2001 From: "Larry B. Macy" To: Barrie Robinson , MG List Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 22:09:57 -0500 Subject: Re: And yet another VIRUS Well, if we can get users to NOT use Outlook, or Outlook Express, we can slow these virii down a bit. Try Eudora, Netscape, or....... They are free too, ya know!! PS not that there is anything wrong with those programs (and there obviously is ;-) but as was pointed out to me in another forum recently, they are the most widely used, therefore the biggest target. As soon as Eudora, or what ever becomes the most widely used, then that is the target. Larry On 12/4/01 8:06 PM, "Barrie Robinson" wrote: > Today at noon a new virus hit my friends company and they are in dim > straits because users keep opening up the damn attachment. It comes as a > message with a screen saver !! So users keep wanting to see the screen > saver!! Apparently the fix for it is out as of this afternoon So do not > open any screen savers sent to you and update your virus definitions asap > > Regards > Barrie > > Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net > -- Larry Macy 78 Midget Keep your top down and your chin up. Larry B. Macy, Ph.D. macy@bbl.med.upenn.edu System Manager/Administrator Neuropsychiatry Section Department of Psychiatry University of Pennsylvania 3400 Spruce St. - 10 Gates Philadelphia, PA 19104 Ask a question and you're a fool for three minutes; do not ask a question and you're a fool for the rest of your life. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 20:18:48 2001 From: James Schulte To: "Mgs@autox.team.net" Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 22:16:46 -0800 Subject: 1978MGB for sale Listers, I'm selling my 78B to acquire funds for the MGCGT I would like to acquire. Any donations would also be appreciated :-).http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?UV=624691449049_60752927203&US=0&collid=94072927203 Contact me by email or 215-256-4435. I live in Harleysville, PA USA which is 35 miles NW of Philadelphia. Come get it before it snows around here. $7,000.00 OBO Jim 78B for sale 70B not for sale /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 20:33:03 2001 From: Tab Julius To: James Schulte Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 22:31:08 -0500 Subject: Re: 1978MGB for sale What are those two last shots of a red car? At 10:16 PM 12/4/01 -0800, James Schulte wrote: >Listers, >I'm selling my 78B to acquire funds for the MGCGT I would like to >acquire. Any donations would also be appreciated >:-).http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?UV=624691449049_60752927203&US=0&collid=94072927203 > >Contact me by email or 215-256-4435. I live in Harleysville, PA USA >which is 35 miles NW of Philadelphia. Come get it before it snows >around here. $7,000.00 OBO >Jim >78B for sale >70B not for sale /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 21:39:00 2001 From: "Jeff Fayne" To: "mgs" Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 22:38:02 -0600 Subject: MG/Lola LMP-675 nets unofficial Track Record in Sebring testing For those of you interested in MG's Prototype racing efforts, more here: http://www.fastdetails.com/focus/Dec01Sebtest.htm Looks like MG/Lola is going to be a force to reckon with again at Le Mans... Jeff '70B /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 21:48:29 2001 From: "Jerry Greenberg" To: "MG Mail List" Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 22:45:32 -0600 Subject: For Sale - 1974 MGBGT I advertised this car earlier on the list but it still occupies my garage. I was asking $500 in my first attempt to sell - now I'm asking $250 firm. 1974 MGB/GT. Complete car, it was to have been my next project but I lost interest and need room in my garage for another car already purchased. Engine turned over prior to removing carbs, manifolds and head. I was able to get fuel flowing to carbs but would not quite start. Chrome bumpers in good condition, wire wheels (rusty), interior probably needs replacing. Rust in rear trunk area and battery boxes, and some rust on passenger side door sill. Car is dark metallic gray but was originally purple. My original intent was to get it running and drivable for a rolling restoration. This car also would be great for parts, but I wont part it out myself. The car is in Katy, Texas, just west of Houston. Won't someone help me get this out of my garage? Jerry Greenberg Email jerrygreenberg@earthlink.net /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 22:03:14 2001 From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 20:58:47 -0800 Subject: Running Rough Whent for a good long drive this afternoon, The B ran great untill this evening when I went to go get coffee, it started rough and then idled rough like it was missing under 2,000 rpm as soon as I go over 2000 tough it returns to normal. Any thoughts as what is wrong it is a 1970 MGB roadster with electronic ingnition. cheers, Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 22:35:53 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: MG list Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 23:32:03 -0600 Subject: Re: Running Rough Adam Schellinck wrote: > Went for a good long drive this afternoon, The B ran great untill this evening when I went to go get coffee, it started rough and then idled rough like it was missing under 2,000 rpm as soon as I go over 2000 tough it returns to normal. Any thoughts as what is wrong it is a 1970 MGB roadster with electronic ingnition. Adam, best guess is a fouled plug. Other possibility is an air-leak at the intake manifold. -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 22:57:16 2001 From: Skye Poier To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 21:56:35 -0800 Subject: Back on the list Hi, I'm back :) Hopefully I can keep up with the email volume this time around. cheers Skye -- 1966 MGB - GHN3L Safety Fast! __,__\__ The MGB Experience www.mgbexperience.com (_o____o_) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 23:04:46 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 22:50:01 -0600 Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation Ah yes: <<>> he only "parafin" he could find was the clear wax used to seal jars of preserves, so he melted a block of it and dipped the carbs in it. <<>> Nothing eases that burning SU throat better than gargling with a little melted paraffin. :-J /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 4 23:21:15 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 22:50:01 -0600 Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation Ah yes: <<>> he only "parafin" he could find was the clear wax used to seal jars of preserves, so he melted a block of it and dipped the carbs in it. <<>> Nothing eases that burning SU throat better than gargling with a little melted paraffin. :-J /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 02:52:31 2001 From: Eric To: MGS Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 20:14:54 +1030 Subject: Re: Back on the list Skye Poier wrote: > > Hi, I'm back :) Hopefully I can keep up with the email volume > this time around. > Welcome back Skye! -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 03:31:48 2001 From: Joe To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 12:27:12 +0200 Subject: MkI, MkII... Hi, Please excuse my ignorance But I am new in this. Can anyone explain the difference between the MG MkI and MkII Years of production Are they MGA types or MGB types. Thanks Joe  64 MGB [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of jnassif.vcf] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 05:13:51 2001 From: Bud Krueger To: Skye Poier Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 07:13:19 -0500 Subject: Re: Back on the list Welcome back, Skye. You were missed. Bud Krueger Skye Poier wrote: > Hi, I'm back :) Hopefully I can keep up with the email volume > this time around. > > cheers > > Skye > > -- > 1966 MGB - GHN3L Safety Fast! __,__\__ > The MGB Experience www.mgbexperience.com (_o____o_) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 05:27:40 2001 From: Carl W French To: Skye Poier , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 07:25:27 -0500 Subject: Re: Back on the list I Cannot believe you have the time to spend us. I would think the MGB Experience would keep you too busy. It is nice to have you back so we can keep more up to date on your restoration. Carl French 67B 80B /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 06:03:41 2001 From: Martin To: Dave Quirt Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 07:02:45 -0600 Subject: Re: Twin cam engine Dave, Wasn't the MGA deluxe just the twinky body/chassis overuns that they stuffed a 1622 engine in? Martin Dave Quirt wrote: > Rui: > > Barney is right. > > I got my first Twin-Cam 17 years ago without an engine. Luckily, I found > an engine quite easily and inexpensively the following year. My second > Twin-Cam came as a chassis with suspension, but no wheels, drivetrain, > or much of a body. I still don't have an engine for it, but have nearly > everything else. [Radiators, tachs, and distributors are also scarce.] > Used, rebuildable engines are available now and again (several have come > up for sale this past year), but they have been going for USD$4,500 and > up and that's too much for me when I have lots of other things to spend > my little bit of disposible cash!! > > And, yes, I know of several racers who have 2 or 3 spare Twin-Cam > engines and who will NOT sell even one of them, not to mention some > other Twin-Cam-specific parts!! > > Actually, a Twin-Cam without the Twin-Cam engine is essentially a MGA > deluxe in 1500 or 1600 clothing. So, even engineless it is still worth > more than comparable regular 1500/1600/1622 MGAs. > > Dave Q. > YD3/1437 and YD3/1842 > and other As and Bs > > >From Barney Gaylord > > > >> rui gigante wrote: > >> in my search for a MG, I've found a couple of twin cam models, apparently original, besides the engine .... one 1600 and one 1622. Anyone have the experience (good or bad) of finding a complete twin cam engine? ....<< > > > > The Twin Cam MGA is worth about $10,000 more than the other MGA models, and it's all in the engine. Without the twin cam engine the Twin Cam MGA is worth about the same as any other MGA, and a twin cam engine by itself in restoreable condition is worth about $10,000. This phenominon is the result of a severe shortage of twin cam engines. In years past many twin cam engines were removed in favor of pushrod engine transplants. Some of those engine were lost or tossed. Some vintage racers have bought up one or two loose twin cam engine for spares for their race cars. So today you end up bidding against the racers for the few twin cam engines still left in circulation. If you really want a Twin Cam MGA (with the correct engine), try to buy one with the engine in it. Otherwise you should seriously try to find a twin cam engine before you buy the car without one.< > > > > $.02, /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 06:19:12 2001 From: Paul Root To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 07:18:38 -0600 Subject: [Fwd: 1978MGB for sale] Darn, I forgot to edit the trailer again... Looks really nice, James. Can I ask what that color is. I'll, hopefully, be painting my '77 next summer. It's currently Tahiti Blue, but since I found some pictures of my old '72 that I'd painted BRG, I've started to think of other colors. That looks like a great color. Paul. > > At 10:16 PM 12/4/01 -0800, James Schulte wrote: > > >Listers, > > >I'm selling my 78B to acquire funds for the MGCGT I would like to > > >acquire. Any donations would also be appreciated > > >:-).http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?UV=624691449049_60752927203&US=0&collid=94072927203 > > > > > >Contact me by email or 215-256-4435. I live in Harleysville, PA USA > > >which is 35 miles NW of Philadelphia. Come get it before it snows > > >around here. $7,000.00 OBO > > >Jim > > >78B for sale > > >70B not for sale -- Paul T. Root E/Mail: proot@iaces.com 600 Stinson Blvd, Fl 1S PAG: +1 (877) 693-7155 Minneapolis, MN 55413 WRK: +1 (612) 664-3385 NIC: PTR FAX: +1 (612) 664-4779 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 06:53:22 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Skye Poier , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 05:52:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Back on the list Skye, don't do this at the expense of keeping your excellent site updated!! --- Skye Poier wrote: > Hi, I'm back :) Hopefully I can keep up with the email volume > this time around. ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) '66-ish 18GB-U-H 39633 NAMGBR #5-2328 Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 07:04:22 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Barrie Robinson , mgs@autox.team.net, Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 06:03:27 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: And yet another VIRUS Just received a note from someone on the Morgans list with this - fortunately, the list removes the attachment! ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) '66-ish 18GB-U-H 39633 NAMGBR #5-2328 Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 07:14:38 2001 From: "E.Claure" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 10:08:09 -0400 Subject: Stock cam and high compresion pistons Hi list, is there any gain installing higher compression pistons on a stock engine? Maybe a tad more low end power? Thanks, Enrique MGB 77 All gauges work yeepee! Volvo P1800E All green with base coat Karmann Ghia Engine on the stand 70% Datsun 280Z waiting for a new antenna Cherry Red Jaguar XJ8 Growl ! what can I say. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 08:13:47 2001 From: martens@auditor.sk.ca To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:21:11 -0600 Subject: Re: speedo advice To use this, I need to know - what is the aspect ratio of an "SR" radial? My guess is it is likely 78 or 80. I don't recall there being a 75-series 20 years ago. The original tires (and current tires) on my 73B are 165SR14, and I need a new set in the spring. thanks andrew 1973 MGB Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:49:46 -0600 From: "Paul T. Root" Subject: Re: speedo advice I found it: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html or go to www.miata.net, click on garage, click on Tire Size Calculator and CAmparator /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 08:30:48 2001 From: "Paul T. Root" To: martens@auditor.sk.ca Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:30:13 -0600 Subject: Re: speedo advice On Wed, Dec 05, 2001 at 09:21:11AM -0600, martens@auditor.sk.ca wrote: > To use this, I need to know - what is the aspect ratio of an "SR" radial? > My guess is it is likely 78 or 80. I don't recall there being a 75-series > 20 years ago. The original tires (and current tires) on my 73B are 165SR14, > and I need a new set in the spring. I always thought that if it didn't say it was 80. The other site we've found, has some information overload. It will figure RPM from speed (and vise-versa) if you plug in the rear end and gear ratios. Does anyone have a book (or off the top of their head) the gear ratios? And wheel offset for the Rostyle? Panasports? The other site is http://www.tolan-hoechst.com/cars/tirecalc.htm > > thanks > andrew > 1973 MGB > > Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:49:46 -0600 > From: "Paul T. Root" > Subject: Re: speedo advice > > I found it: > > http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html > > or go to www.miata.net, click on garage, click on > Tire Size Calculator and CAmparator /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 08:36:59 2001 From: Martin To: Bullwinkle Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 09:36:28 -0600 Subject: Re: A Antics Tech Tips manual Blake, Another book to consider is the University Motors Technical Book. John Twist claims it is more comprehensive. I haven't seen it however. Martin The University Motors Technical Book (Edition 2001.6) is available for $35 postpaid. Either send a check to University Motors; or, fax your charge card number (616) 682 0801; or, send your charge card number via email (separate the charge card number in two messages but don't forget the expiration date). But, they're still at the printers. I should have them in a couple of weeks. FAST FORWARD! John H Twist, Service Manager University Motors Ltd 6490 Fulton Street East Ada, Michigan 49301 UNITED STATES of AMERICA Phone: 616 682 0800 Fax: 616 682 0801 www.universitymotorsltd.com Bullwinkle wrote: > MGA owners: > > It is possible that Ron Embling of Britbooks http://www.britbooks.com may have > some copies of the third edition of the "A-Antics Tech Tips" book. At least > they are listed on his web site. > > Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 08:47:59 2001 From: Martin To: Dave Munroe Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 09:46:38 -0600 Subject: Re: Cars For Sale On List???? Probably just like the Indy 500 or Kentucky Derby. They are really trendy social event. They are there to be seen and/or over engorge themselves with adult beverages. Most of the attendee are not race fans. The difference is that attendees have to buy tickets inorder to get drunk in the infield. Not so with Bike week in Daytona. I believe a dozen or so motorcyclists were killed during bike week last year. That is a tragedy unless the bikers were drunk yuppie lawyers. Dave Munroe wrote: > Eugene Balinski wrote: > > > Be advised that every Father's Day Weekend, Laconia, NH and the > >surrounding area (Weir's Beach) turn into the "Sturgis of the East", and > >host one of the largest, if not the largest gathering of the Motorcycle > >faithful (primarily H-D's) on the East Coast. Automobiles of any type are > >generally not welcome during that time. > > Eugene; > > Perhaps not in 2002. The AMA has cancelled the Superbike event for NHIS due > to rider protest againt unsafe track conditions. This racing event is the > focal point for the traditional Father's Day weekend, even though the > majority of the visitors to the area don't go anywhere the race track. > same situation in Daytona re: the crowds. The Daytona 200 is the event, > maybe 40 to 60K spectators in the Speedway at any given time, but over 1/2 > million biker nuts gather in the area. Go figure. > > It will be interesting to see what the failure to hold the featured event > will do to the overall crowd size in New Hampshire. > > Might be an interesting twist to gather MG's and other LBC's at the track on > that weekend, since the Superbikes won't be there. > > (Unless, of course, track management manage to find another bike related > event to hold there that weekend.....) > > Dave > > _________________________________________________________________ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 08:47:33 2001 From: Jack Baker To: MGs Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 07:45:03 -0800 Subject: Completely new MG Site http://www.victoriamgclub.com/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 09:30:00 2001 From: Phil Cleobury To: "Mgs@autox.team.net" Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 08:29:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: Wish bone fitting Hi all I am refurbishing my suspension and have had V8 bushing #52 fitted to the 4 wishbone arms #12,11 on the wishbone pivot #16. (Link to moss part# breakdown) http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors2/Shop/ViewProducts.mac/report?SessionID=F770EA90-329F-4ABA-A160-D534823EA99A&PlateID=595#16 At present the metal cylinder/bush inside the rubber bush is tight on the wishbone pivot. My question is ....how tight should this be? Should the metal bush swivel or fit tight on the pivot! ===== Regards Phil Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 10:03:48 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2001 02:41:51 +1030 Subject: Re: Chicken Aeseeyou@aol.com wrote: > > Oh, by the way is it true that Australia is so beautiful it can > literally take your breathe away with its sweeping panoramas that just boggle > the senses with their heady banquet of color, sights and sounds. Don't listen to Dan - it sounds like the green-eyed monster has him by the distributors. Yes, I am often breathless here, but that may just be because I am so unfit. I am moderately travlled and loved the parts of California, Illinois and Virginia I saw. I also fell in love with the south of France,. But... I have to say that Australia has such a huge variety of landscapes that are often within easy reach of wherever you are. They can also be many, many miles away from wherever you are (it is a big country with LOTS of miles of 'sweeping panoramas' to travel through - and generally travel through with few traffic jams. Apart from Sydney and Melbourne, you can generally get out of the city and into rural vistas within half an hour's drive from the city centre. An hour will find you in a country town or on an isolated stretch of beach with little company. I think the 'escape factor' is the beauty of a country like ours and when you have a Little British Sportscar you don't want to be stuck in traffic for hours while you are trying to get to your favourite twisty bit of country road (that you can travel at 'safety fast' speed without having to hit the brakes every minute or so to avaoid hitting the back end of a traffic jam or a driver who insists on braking on the entrance to, through and out the other side of every mild bend). Of course, it is also year-round, top-down driving weather! Ask me how I know... I can't put the top up over the competition rollbar! I am sure that everyone finds their own bit of paradise in their own country/state/town - ours, however, generally clean air, less traffic and better year-round weather than many other places on Earth :-) In fact, ask Elle MacPherson... she just finished filming a series of promo adverts for my old State of Western Australia. And if Elle says its so... it MUST be :-) > I would love to visit there some day..being in love with the place ever since I read "The > Thornbirds" It would be a blast to go over and search for one of the lost > D-types or possibly a pre-war MG or TR. Maybe you could show me 'n the Misses > around a bit.... Hmmm, I think there are more LOST MGs in America than here. You don't find too many cars-in-barns-or-paddocks here unless they are old Holdens... most of the old cars have old owners (and many of them belong to my MG Car Club :-) Yep, you are all invited to stay at my place here in Adelaide if you are ever in this neck of the woods. Just give me a day's notice or so to tidy up the guest room and feed the cattle dog. -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 10:11:10 2001 From: Skye Poier To: MG Nuts Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:10:21 -0800 Subject: Re: MkI, MkII... Word on the street is that Joe said: > Hi, > Please excuse my ignorance But I am new in this. > Can anyone explain the difference between the MG MkI and MkII Years of > production Are they MGA types or MGB types. http://www.mgbexperience.com/reference/evolution.html Bascially, the Mk I MGB was 63-67 chrome bumper with metal dash, started with 3-main then 5-main engine, no synchro on first, positive ground. Mk II 68-69 had negative earth, all synchro, negative ground with alternator, and in the USA the "pillow" dash. The "Mk" system is kinda useless in describing MGB's because they don't line up very well with the major changes to the car. Skye 66 B -- 1966 MGB - GHN3L Safety Fast! __,__\__ The MGB Experience www.mgbexperience.com (_o____o_) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 10:14:54 2001 From: Skye Poier To: MG Nuts Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:13:50 -0800 Subject: Re: Stock cam and high compresion pistons Word on the street is that E.Claure said: > Hi list, is there any gain installing higher compression pistons on a stock > engine? Maybe a tad more low end power? Thanks, Enrique http://www.mgbmga.com/tech/mgb11.htm More power yes, and higher octane fuel... Skye 66 B > Volvo P1800E All green with base coat Ooh nice, I almost bought a P1800 but I went for the MGB instead (no regrets) -- 1966 MGB - GHN3L Safety Fast! __,__\__ The MGB Experience www.mgbexperience.com (_o____o_) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 10:15:34 2001 From: "British Sportscar Center" To: "Phil Cleobury" , Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:15:10 -0800 Subject: Re: Wish bone fitting Phil, so long as you can get it over the pivot, whether it moves "freely" or not is academic. When you tighten the castellated nut against the big washer, it is intended to pinch the steel tube inside the bushing so as to prevent it from moving, meaning that all the bushing movement is done by the rubber flexing. However, it is important to note that the steel sleeve must be free enough on the pivot that you can settle the car to its normal ride height before tightening the castellated nuts. That way, the rubber is in a state of non-flex at its neutral setting, flexing only when the wishbone moves up or down. If the rubber starts off pre-loaded, it will wear out a lot more quickly. Lawrie British Sportscar Center ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Cleobury" To: Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 8:29 AM Subject: Wish bone fitting > Hi all > I am refurbishing my suspension and have had V8 > bushing #52 fitted to the 4 wishbone arms #12,11 on > the wishbone pivot #16. > > (Link to moss part# breakdown) > > http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors2/Shop/ViewProducts.mac/r eport?SessionID=F770EA90-329F-4ABA-A160-D534823EA99A&PlateID=595#16 > > At present the metal cylinder/bush inside the rubber > bush is tight on the wishbone pivot. > My question is ....how tight should this be? > Should the metal bush swivel or fit tight on the > pivot! > > > ===== > Regards > Phil /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 10:17:22 2001 From: Skye Poier To: MG Nuts Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:16:37 -0800 Subject: Re: speedo advice Word on the street is that Paul T. Root said: > On Wed, Dec 05, 2001 at 09:21:11AM -0600, martens@auditor.sk.ca wrote: > > To use this, I need to know - what is the aspect ratio of an "SR" radial? > > My guess is it is likely 78 or 80. I don't recall there being a 75-series > > 20 years ago. The original tires (and current tires) on my 73B are 165SR14, > > and I need a new set in the spring. > > I always thought that if it didn't say it was 80. I've heard both /78 and /80 > The other site we've found, has some information overload. It will > figure RPM from speed (and vise-versa) if you plug in the rear end > and gear ratios. Does anyone have a book (or off the top of their > head) the gear ratios? http://www.mgbexperience.com/reference/specification.html > And wheel offset for the Rostyle? Panasports? http://www.mgbexperience.com/misc/story.html YMMV Skye 66 B -- 1966 MGB - GHN3L Safety Fast! __,__\__ The MGB Experience www.mgbexperience.com (_o____o_) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 10:20:00 2001 From: "British Sportscar Center" To: "Skye Poier" , "MG Nuts" Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:20:21 -0800 Subject: Re: MkI, MkII... Correct as far as you go, Skye. Unfortunately, MG also used MkI, II, etc, for Midgets, Magnettes and MGAs had a MkII (as did TDs). 'Twould have been nice if Joe had given even a brief description of the MG he was talking about. (Wind-up windows, side curtains, engine number, etc.) Lawrie BSC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Skye Poier" To: "MG Nuts" Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 9:10 AM Subject: Re: MkI, MkII... > Word on the street is that Joe said: > > Hi, > > Please excuse my ignorance But I am new in this. > > Can anyone explain the difference between the MG MkI and MkII Years of > > production Are they MGA types or MGB types. > > http://www.mgbexperience.com/reference/evolution.html > > Bascially, the Mk I MGB was 63-67 chrome bumper with metal dash, > started with 3-main then 5-main engine, no synchro on first, positive > ground. Mk II 68-69 had negative earth, all synchro, negative ground > with alternator, and in the USA the "pillow" dash. > > The "Mk" system is kinda useless in describing MGB's because they > don't line up very well with the major changes to the car. > > Skye > 66 B /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 10:30:34 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: Joe Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 11:29:03 -0600 Subject: Re: MkI, MkII... Both, also try the 1930's 18 hp series And? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 10:47:09 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: Skye Poier , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:47:25 -0800 Subject: RE: Back on the list Skye: Now we are going to fill up your in-box with welcome back posts. : ) Welcome Back. KD /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 11:55:31 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: Lawrie@britcars.com Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 13:54:28 EST Subject: Re: MkI, MkII... Lawrie, Skye, et al. Also A-H Sprites, Jaguars, early Lincolns, fathers and sons named Mark....I can't believe I just wrote that down..OK drinks are on me. I'm buying the next round! Albert Escalante /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 12:30:38 2001 From: "Scott Allen" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 19:27:47 +0000 Subject: Sparky the TD Hi, So I'm getting a handle on a problem with my '52, and I figure that now is as good as a time as any to throw another one that I was leaving on the back-burner 'till the big one was sorted out. Backstory: TD came back to life after an almost year-long mechanical restoration. Battery was replaced, generator and starter were re-built a year prior. After a few days back on the road the battery dies. I consult a wiser head then mine, and he believes that the regulator may have stuck in the "on" position, so I clean it up and it seems to do the trick, but four or five days later the battery dies again. I happen to have a new regulator, but it's in a different location. Before I can replace it a core plug blows and I have to deal with it. In dealing with it I pull off the starter cable to give me better access to one of the manifold nuts. I charge the battery I put in the new regulator The starter cable isn't hooked up yet. I hook up the neg side of the battery, (it's a positive ground system) I go to hook up the ground and SPARK! To troubleshoot it I leave the ground disconnected, and then pull the wires going to the regulator. I then hook up the ground on the battery and reconnect the wires to the regulator one by one. When I get to the wire that runs to the back of the Ammeter: SPARK! So I check the wiring on the Ammeter, and it is hooked up properly, nor can I find any exposed wires ruling out shorts. Looking at the wiring diagram the other wire on the ammeter goes to the starter switch which goes to the starter which is still disconnected. So here's my questions: 1. Could the spark be due to the starter being unhooked? 2. If not then any suggestions on where I should start looking would be appreciated... 3. I noticed that when I turned power on to the lights they didn't come on. Also I put the key in and turned it and I didn't hear the fuel pump clickeing, so obviously the electrical system isn't working with the ammeter unhooked. Is this by design, or do I have another problem? I'm not going to be back home until Friday, but I'd like to hit the ground running on this, so any help appreciated. Scott Allen 52 TD, (Sparky) 74 1/2 BGT _________________________________________________________________ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 12:57:58 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: 2cam Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 13:55:12 -0600 Subject: Magazine advertisement Listers: Has anyone seen, or have, an advertisement in a US magazine advertising the twin cam? I have a copy of the sales brochure. I think there was only one with different colors. I would like to find and get a good example or copy if any exists, of a advertisement in a US magazine such as R&T, Sports Car Graphic, Sports Car Illustrated, etc. Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 14:02:20 2001 From: Larry Macy To: Jack Baker , MG List Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 16:01:37 -0500 Subject: Re: Completely new MG Site Hey!!! Where's the Midget?? There's a Bugeye!! Larry At this exact moment in time 12/5/01 10:45 AM, "Jack Baker" made the profound statement: > http://www.victoriamgclub.com/ > -- Larry Macy 78 Midget Keep your top down and your chin up Larry B. Macy, Ph.D. macy@bbl.med.upenn.edu System Administrator/Manager Neuropsychiatry Section Department of Psychiatry University of Pennsylvania 3400 Spruce St. - 1015 Gates Philadelphia, PA 19104 Ask a question and you're a fool for three minutes; do not ask a question and you're a fool for the rest of your life. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 14:06:07 2001 From: Larry Macy To: James Schulte , MG List Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 16:05:23 -0500 Subject: Re: 1978MGB for sale Is that the CGT you were asking about?? Did you go see it?? Never a drop more info did ya give us ;-) Larry At this exact moment in time 12/5/01 1:16 AM, "James Schulte" made the profound statement: > Listers, > I'm selling my 78B to acquire funds for the MGCGT I would like to > acquire. Any donations would also be appreciated > :-).http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?UV=624691449049_60752927203&US=0&col > lid=94072927203 > > Contact me by email or 215-256-4435. I live in Harleysville, PA USA > which is 35 miles NW of Philadelphia. Come get it before it snows > around here. $7,000.00 OBO > Jim > 78B for sale > 70B not for sale > -- Larry B. Macy, Ph.D. macy@bbl.med.upenn.edu System Administrator/Manager Neuropsychiatry Section Department of Psychiatry University of Pennsylvania 3400 Spruce St. - 1015 Gates Philadelphia, PA 19104 The bottom line: Sure, there's pain in adopting the Mac. But if I accept that, I get to use a computer that works, and that pretty much does what I expect and want a computer to do. Stewart Alsop FORTUNE.com Monday, June 25, 2001 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 14:12:26 2001 From: kmr@pil.net To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 21:11:41 GMT Subject: 1098 Midget Wrist Pin Circlip Size As the subject states, would anyone have the size of the circlip used to secure the gudgeon / wrist pin in the piston? Cleaning shop, and found five new 1098 STD pistons... but no circlips among them. Hoping I can just find the circlips and keep the pistons :) Thanks, Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 15:08:23 2001 From: WSpohn4@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 17:06:29 EST Subject: Re: Twioncam/Deluxe In a message dated 05/12/01 11:31:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, owner-mgs-digest@autox.team.net writes: > Wasn't the MGA deluxe just the twinky body/chassis overuns that they > stuffed a 1622 engine in? > More or less - although the specific bits used varied. And they did both 1588 and 1622 cc. versions. Bill /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 16:50:55 2001 From: James Schulte To: Larry Macy , Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 18:48:45 -0800 Subject: Re: 1978MGB for sale Sorry bud, can't let you know everything. I gots to be able to surprise you once in a while. Latest is that the engine, tranny and rear are excellent. They won't take my B and cash, they want all cash. Thus the fire sale on my B. I'm also working on a Canadian connection of some C's. Wish me luck! Jim Larry Macy wrote: > Is that the CGT you were asking about?? Did you go see it?? Never a drop > more info did ya give us ;-) > > Larry > > > Listers, > > I'm selling my 78B to acquire funds for the MGCGT I would like to > > acquire. Any donations would also be appreciated > > :-).http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?UV=624691449049_60752927203&US=0&col > > lid=94072927203 > > > > Contact me by email or 215-256-4435. I live in Harleysville, PA USA > > which is 35 miles NW of Philadelphia. Come get it before it snows > > around here. $7,000.00 OBO > > Jim > > 78B for sale > > 70B not for sale > > > > -- > > Larry B. Macy, Ph.D. > macy@bbl.med.upenn.edu > System Administrator/Manager > Neuropsychiatry Section > Department of Psychiatry > University of Pennsylvania > 3400 Spruce St. - 1015 Gates > Philadelphia, PA 19104 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 5 22:23:05 2001 From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 21:19:59 -0800 Subject: Heater Control 1970 MGB Roadster that still inst running well, tried everything you guys mentioned but it just wont co-operate so I will let the pros handle it at work tomorow. (I work with a BL mechanic) My question of the night is when is the heater valve fully on? when it is out all the way from the block or up close to it?? Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 01:25:05 2001 From: Eric To: MG Nuts Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2001 18:52:56 +1030 Subject: Re: MkI, MkII... Skye Poier wrote: > > Word on the street is that Joe said: > > Hi, > > Please excuse my ignorance But I am new in this. > > Can anyone explain the difference between the MG MkI and MkII Years of > > production Are they MGA types or MGB types. > > > The "Mk" system is kinda useless in describing MGB's because they > don't line up very well with the major changes to the car. > I always took it that, especially in Australia as we assembled quite a number of the MkII variety (and even put a little MkII badge on the rear of them), the primary difference between say a 67 MkI and the 68 MkII was the all synchro box. In fact the first thing that a lot of MkI owners do when they buy such a car is to convert to all synchro and essentially have themselves a MkII. We did not have the 'pillow' dash in the MkII here (it wasn't required by law). -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia "Things should be as simple as possible, but not simpler". -- Albert Einstein /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 02:18:05 2001 From: To: "Bullwinkle" , "mgs" Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 09:11:42 -0000 Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation > Are some people really that dumb? "Warning - contents of this (coffee) cup may be hot" /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 02:18:04 2001 From: To: "Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck" , Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 09:18:20 -0000 Subject: Re: Heater Control All the way out. ----- Original Message ----- From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 5:19 AM Subject: Heater Control > My question of the night is when is the heater valve fully on? when it is out all the way from the block or up close to it?? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 02:48:25 2001 From: To: "Jeff Fayne" , "mgs" Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 09:22:48 -0000 Subject: Re: MG/Lola LMP-675 nets unofficial Track Record in Sebring "we decided to bring it where we knew we would be relatively sure of favorable weather" Let's hope they do some wet-weather testing as well. Even though they won a touring car sprint race last season (with some luck it must be said) both cars went out later on with electrics problems, just like the remaining car at Le Mans. One can carry tradition too far. > For those of you interested in MG's Prototype racing efforts, more here: > http://www.fastdetails.com/focus/Dec01Sebtest.htm > > Looks like MG/Lola is going to be a force to reckon with again at Le Mans... /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 02:48:25 2001 From: To: "Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck" , Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 09:27:26 -0000 Subject: Re: Running Rough Check you have spark going to each plug first - use a timing light and watch for the flashes. If they are OK remove each plug lead in turn (guard against shocks) and the one that *doesn't* cause the idle to drop even further is the bad cylinder - from what ever cause. > Whent for a good long drive this afternoon, The B ran great untill this evening when I went to go get coffee, it started rough and then idled rough like it was missing under 2,000 rpm as soon as I go over 2000 tough it returns to normal. Any thoughts as what is wrong it is a 1970 MGB roadster with electronic ingnition. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 02:48:25 2001 From: To: "Scott Allen" , Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 09:44:26 -0000 Subject: Re: Sparky the TD These comments are purely generic, I have no knowledge of TDs. ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Allen To: Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 7:27 PM Subject: Sparky the TD > When I get to the wire that runs to the back of the Ammeter: SPARK! > > So I check the wiring on the Ammeter, and it is hooked up properly, nor can > I find any exposed wires ruling out shorts. > > Looking at the wiring diagram the other wire on the ammeter goes to the > starter switch which goes to the starter which is still disconnected. > > So here's my questions: > > 1. Could the spark be due to the starter being unhooked? No, the starter current does not go through the ammeter even if the end of the starter cable were grounding - which would cause an even bigger spark when reconnecting the battery. > 3. I noticed that when I turned power on to the lights they didn't come on. > Also I put the key in and turned it and I didn't hear the fuel pump > clickeing, so obviously the electrical system isn't working with the ammeter > unhooked. Is this by design, or do I have another problem? By design. With an ammeter all charge and load current (with the exception of the starter) *should* go through the ammeter so you can see the net effect of the current charge and current load on the gauge. If this is how it is wired then it is a case of the regulator or something downstream of it causing the spark rather than something downstream of the ammeter. Does this current show on the ammeter when all is connected? It should, if it doesn't then it sounds like some of the load or charge is bypassing the ammeter that shouldn't. PaulH. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 05:30:49 2001 From: Bob Shaw To: Skye Poier , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 06:25:53 -0600 Subject: RE: Back on the list At 9:47 AM -0800 12/5/01, Dodd, Kelvin wrote: >Skye I was wondering what the word on the streets was. Its good to get those reports again -- Bob Shaw Check out Shaw's Garage at http://www.mlcltd.com/shawsgarage/ My British Car is NOT leaky - it's merely marking its territory. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 05:52:39 2001 From: "Ken Waringa" To: "MG" Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 06:51:20 -0600 Subject: Corroless vs POR15 Anyone with experience using Corroless and POR15 have any comments which is best for rust prevention? I'm talking about painting the inside of fenders and such during a restoration. I've cleaned the rust off as completely as I can, now I want to coat with something that will prevent it coming back. Thanks, Ken /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 07:05:21 2001 From: To: "Ken Waringa" , "MG" Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 13:49:12 -0000 Subject: Re: Corroless vs POR15 Tried Corroless (less than what?) and found it no better than ordinary primer. The best stuff I have come across is Trustan 25 which really does seem to work. However the last lot I bought was at a show from someone who reckoned the manufacturer had changed the formulation and the name and they had bought the last of the old stuff in bulk from the manufacturer and were selling it in containers without the manufacturers label. Had the same colour, consistency, smell, taste and reacted the same as the labelled stuff. Not used POR15. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ken Waringa To: MG Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 12:51 PM Subject: Corroless vs POR15 > Anyone with experience using Corroless and POR15 have any comments which is > best for rust prevention? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 09:49:06 2001 From: MGMagnette@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 11:48:12 EST Subject: MGB on The Price is Right They gave away an MGB on the Price is Right.... in 1976. On www.tpirsite.com is a short video clip of Janice Pennington driving the MGB across the stage. Ofcourse, only the bloopers and famous moments of The Price is Right make it onto www.tpirsite.com and so obviously something happens.... Yes, Janice drives the MGB right into the side of door #2 when she looses her shoe. Direct link to video: http://www.tpirsite.com/models/3/model3.htm John MG and TPiR fan /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 10:08:00 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: Bullwinkle Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2001 11:04:53 -0600 Subject: Let it snow, let it snow....ah hell, you know the rest :o) \ | / \\ \ | | / // \\\ \\ // /// \\\ ######### /// \\ ### ### // -- ## ## -- -- ## squish!! ## -- -- ## ## -- // ### ### \\ /// ######## \\\ /// // \\ \\\ // / | | \ \\ / | \ You have just been hit with an e-mail snow ball! (The first one of the winter.) It's the start of..... Snow Ball Fight 2001-2002 !!!! One rule to this game.... You can't hit someone who has already hit you! Now... go out there and get as many people as you can, before they get you! I got you first! and you can't get me back! We do not stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing! /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 10:20:19 2001 From: MGALUVR@aol.com To: Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2001 12:18:34 EST Subject: WTB: running lights..... I am looking for a set of running lights for my MGA roadster. I prefer the classic style with wire stone guards if possible. I would also like the smaller variety (either 4 or 5 inch)if possible. If anyone has a set for sale or trade please email me. Thanks and happy holidays to everyone on the list... Bill Dillstrom 62 MKII MGA Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 11:20:11 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: MGMagnette@aol.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 10:19:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: MGB on The Price is Right Whew, I thought they were going to wreck it, John! Wonder where this car is now.... --- MGMagnette@aol.com wrote: > They gave away an MGB on the Price is Right.... in 1976. ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) '66-ish 18GB-U-H 39633 NAMGBR #5-2328 Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 12:40:52 2001 From: "Dave Munroe" To: martin@virtual-motors.com Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2001 15:40:09 -0400 Subject: Re: Cars For Sale On List???? "That is a tragedy unless the bikers were drunk yuppie lawyers". Agreed. Dave Be advised that every Father's Day Weekend, Laconia, NH and the > > >surrounding area (Weir's Beach) turn into the "Sturgis of the East", >and > > >host one of the largest, if not the largest gathering of the Motorcycle > > >faithful (primarily H-D's) on the East Coast. Automobiles of any type >are > > >generally not welcome during that time. > > > > Eugene; > > > > Perhaps not in 2002. The AMA has cancelled the Superbike event for NHIS >due > > to rider protest againt unsafe track conditions. This racing event is >the > > focal point for the traditional Father's Day weekend, even though the > > majority of the visitors to the area don't go anywhere the race track. > > same situation in Daytona re: the crowds. The Daytona 200 is the event, > > maybe 40 to 60K spectators in the Speedway at any given time, but over >1/2 > > million biker nuts gather in the area. Go figure. > > > > It will be interesting to see what the failure to hold the featured >event > > will do to the overall crowd size in New Hampshire. > > > > Might be an interesting twist to gather MG's and other LBC's at the >track on > > that weekend, since the Superbikes won't be there. > > > > (Unless, of course, track management manage to find another bike related > > event to hold there that weekend.....) > > > > Dave > > _________________________________________________________________ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 12:44:52 2001 From: Skye Poier To: MG Nuts Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 11:44:00 -0800 Subject: Re: MGB on The Price is Right Hahahah too funny... MGBs had brake boosters that ran off the manifold vacuum in '76 right? If the car wasn't running, it probably would have been a little tricky to stop. Especially in heels. Skye 66 B Word on the street is that MGMagnette@aol.com said: > They gave away an MGB on the Price is Right.... in 1976. On www.tpirsite.com > is a short video clip of Janice Pennington driving the MGB across the stage. > Ofcourse, only the bloopers and famous moments of The Price is Right make it > onto www.tpirsite.com and so obviously something happens.... Yes, Janice > drives the MGB right into the side of door #2 when she looses her shoe. > > Direct link to video: http://www.tpirsite.com/models/3/model3.htm > > John > MG and TPiR fan /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 12:45:21 2001 From: Skye Poier To: MG Nuts Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 11:44:41 -0800 Subject: Listquest I noticed the listquest.com archives of all the team.net lists is gone :( Was there an announcement posted? Are list archives available anywhere else? Thanks Skye -- 1966 MGB - GHN3L Safety Fast! __,__\__ The MGB Experience www.mgbexperience.com (_o____o_) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 16:48:34 2001 From: "Simon Matthews" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2001 23:47:38 +0000 Subject: Crazy engine swap! OK, so it is not an MG, but at least both engine and car are British! http://www.geocities.com/jharkola/Viku2.html _________________________________________________________________ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 18:48:56 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: "MG Nuts" , "Skye Poier" Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2001 18:47:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: Listquest Only on our collective harddrives! On Thu, 06 Dec 2001 11:44:41 -0800, Skye Poier wrote: >I noticed the listquest.com archives of all the team.net lists is >gone :( Was there an announcement posted? Are list archives >available anywhere else? -- Andrew Lundgren lundgren@byu.net http://www.itwest.net/~lundgren /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 20:39:09 2001 From: Mgbbob@aol.com To: dcouncil@imt.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 22:38:15 EST Subject: Re: windshield Dave, I don't think you can replace the glass in the car because the side pillars need to be separated from upper and lower rails. You can only do this with the windshield out of the car. Bob Stahlbush 66 MGB GHN3L 78708 TR3A TS 81398L /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 22:06:36 2001 From: "David F. Darby" To: "Dave Munroe" , Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 23:07:22 -0600 Subject: Re: Cars For Sale On List???? As I recall from the news reports, most of them were just drunk. DFD ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Munroe" To: Mgs@autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 1:40 PM Subject: Re: Cars For Sale On List???? > "That is a tragedy unless the bikers were drunk yuppie lawyers". > > Agreed. > > Dave /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 6 22:30:05 2001 From: aaronw@wsu.edu To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 21:29:34 -0800 (PST) Subject: blasphemy? In my previous message (in the topic of winterizing cars), I mentioned the grins of reaching over the windscreen to de-ice it with my gloves, as the "washer had crapped out". It was the motor that crapped out, not the fluids of course... Looks as if it had happened to the PO, who had (apparently) replaced the Lucas unit with an AMCO plastic cased jobber. It makes noise, but doesn't do any pumping. Since a new pump is cheap in the scheme of things, I bought one (and this is where my wandering "tale" draws to a close). The new pump came in the familiar green and white box with the oh so dreaded (though not by me) "Lucas" label on it. On the bottem, a small sticker is labeled "Partnumber: GWW125 MOTOR & PUMP MADE IN JAPAN" (this covers another sticker with a differing part number, and another "Made in Japan" announcement). How the heck am I supposed to make fun of British electrical components when they aren't even British anymore! BTW, the new pump works quite well. Next up: replace the license plate illumatation that a PO decided my car didn't need. Maybe some day I will have reverse lights too. -- Aaron Whiteman -- Thoughts of graduation vaguely apply. My opinions are mine and do not reflect the views of the University. '75 B :wq /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 7 03:22:23 2001 From: To: Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 10:21:45 -0000 Subject: Fw: 10W-40 motor oil for your sex Junk mail is usually obvious from the Subject line and just gets the DEL key treatment, but I have to admit I did follow the link in this one (not worth it so not included). Leaves me wondering whether 5W/30 or 20W/50 is even better ... /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 7 03:22:24 2001 From: To: , Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 10:03:04 -0000 Subject: Re: blasphemy? And Lucas being American too ... > The new pump came in the familiar green and white box with the oh so > dreaded (though not by me) "Lucas" label on it. > (this covers another sticker with a differing part number, and another > "Made in Japan" announcement). How the heck am I supposed to make fun > of British electrical components when they aren't even British > anymore! /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 7 04:01:19 2001 From: "Derek Vandivere" To: Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 12:00:50 +0100 Subject: FW: Engine dies : 1978 MGB -----Original Message----- From: Mark Dawson [mailto:torchbone@yahoo.com] Sent: Friday, 07 December, 2001 11:28 To: dersk@usa.net Subject: Engine dies : 1978 MGB Hi there, Currently having a problem with the engine sputtering and dying while driving along - very inconvenient. So here's the setup: desmogged 78 B, Weber downdraft carb, new fuel pump, clean fuel filter, new K&N airfilter. Checked distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, all ok. Not sure how to check mixture on the Weber, but the plugs are not fouled and exhaust does not smell terrible. Checked the timing, it was advanced about 3/4 of an inch beyond timing marks. (?!) Adjusted it to 10 degrees BTDC, as per sticker under the bonnet. Idle set at 1000 RPM. This does not, however, affect the problem of dying. So what happens: the car will occasionally sputter and die while sitting at a light. This behaviour seems to get worse as the car warms up (coil? vapor lock?) If you push the gas pedal in when it starts to sputter, it will die completely. If you pump it a little it may catch and keep on running. If you keep it idling at ~1500-2000RPM it will continue running. If it dies, it acts like it's dieseling, then there is a terrible whirring sound coming from the Weber, then a puff of smoke as it dies. I'm not at all sure what would cause the whirring sound, but it doesn't sound pleasant. Any clues as to what to look for? Also, is there a good reason why a mechanic had set the timing so far advanced? (Note, changing the timing did not alter this behaviour one way or the other.) Thanks bunches! -Derek Vandivere ===== Mark Dawson Manager, The Roundtown Cafe 234 N. Court St., Circleville, Ohio, USA http://www.bones.org/torch/ Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 7 04:52:20 2001 From: To: "Derek Vandivere" , Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 11:38:59 -0000 Subject: Re: Engine dies : 1978 MGB Does the tach drop at the same time (i.e. *before* the engine has stopped spinning)? If so the problem is ignition LT. Does it immediately restart? If not have you checked for spark e.g. by watching a timing light on each plug lead? That will indicate whether it is HT or fuel. If fuel have you removed the filler cap? If you get a 'whoosh' your emissions plumbing is blocked, but if fully desmogged you should have a vented cap instead of the unvented, which may have become blocked. Incidentally a small 'whoosh' is normal with a vented cap as it should be spring-loaded to prevent leaks in a roll-over. But if you are getting spluttering and Dieseling it sounds more like lack of sparks. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: Derek Vandivere To: Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 11:00 AM Subject: FW: Engine dies : 1978 MGB > Currently having a problem with the engine sputtering > and dying while driving along - very inconvenient. So > here's the setup: desmogged 78 B, Weber downdraft > carb, new fuel pump, clean fuel filter, new K&N > airfilter. etc. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 7 06:38:49 2001 From: Bud Krueger To: MG List , Rick Lindsay Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001 08:38:01 -0500 Subject: TwinCam for Sale In case anyone's interested, the following ad appeared in my latest issue of the NEMGTR's TSO under the 'Cars & Spares' section: ... 1959 MGA Twin Cam roadster, needs total restoration. $10,000 or $6,000 without engine and radiator, offer. Jim Alcorn, LaJolla CA. (858) 459-0805 or (858) 453-7055. He also listed an MGA/Devin unfinished racer project w/MGB running gear for $8,800, and a '59 MGA 1500 at $5,000. The usual disclaimers apply. I just recall having seen a number of posts recently looking for Twin Cam things. (Rick, wasn't your friend from Portugal looking for one?) Bud Krueger 52TD /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 7 06:55:21 2001 From: "Jon Årikstad" To: Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 14:35:07 +0100 Subject: Prepearing for summer ! I have not posted much for a while. My GT was used this summer, with very little problems. It is now in winter-storage. I just removed the batteries, they were a beat 'weak', after I left the car with the lights on. In Norway ( and Sweden) we have to use the lights at daytime ( and at night, of course) Being 6''4' its not easy to remove the batteries with the seats in. BUT, I promise to use waterfree grease on the battery-poles next spring ! I promise to use waterfree grease on the battery-poles next spring ! I promise to use waterfree grease on the battery-poles next spring ! I promise to use waterfree grease on the battery-poles next spring ! I promise to use waterfree grease on the battery-poles next spring ! I promise to use waterfree ....... Jon Arikstad 1970 MGB GT /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 7 11:59:58 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: aaronw@wsu.edu Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 13:55:13 EST Subject: A hassle-free way to replace License plate bulbs. In a message dated 12/6/01 9:31:07 PM Pacific Standard Time, aaronw@wsu.edu writes: > >>BTW, the new pump works quite well. Next up: replace the license plate > illumination that a PO decided my car didn't need. Maybe someday I will > have reverse lights too.<< List member, aeseeyou (me) has a suggestion on how you can "painlessly" change the pointed bulbs in the lamps on each side of the license plate. Attach a piece of either cellophane or masking tape to the bulb before attempting to replace the bulb. This will keep the (Blankity-Blank-Blank!!) bulb from falling in through the 2-sided receptacles that the lamps must fit into. Not an easy fit either, as I was just about ready to slam a King Dick into the infuriating and frustrating little receptacles, surely created to test a persons calm and resolve. I was at my wits end after having one end into its socket (or hole as it were!) and then the other pointed end would slip out. And I would have to reach my rather large fingers into the tiny bezel, trying to "fish" the darn light bulb out so I could once more start back at the very beginning . BUT with the tape attached..1.) You no longer have to dig into the receptacle to pull the bulb back into place so you could try to center into place. AND...2.) with the tape attached all you had to do was pull the tape out and the try to re-center and attach both points into their connector holes. This is no big engineering break through just a simple way to keep you from spending a frustrating half hour or more trying to replace those pointed bulbs into their respective places. Cheers, and-=Safety Fast=- Albert Escalante 1978 MGB,(Jaguars)1957 3.4 litre(Mk.I),1977 XJ-6L,1985 XJ-6 under constr. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 7 12:45:20 2001 From: aaronw@wsu.edu To: Aeseeyou@aol.com Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 11:43:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: A hassle-free way to replace License plate bulbs. On Fri, 7 Dec 2001 Aeseeyou@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 12/6/01 9:31:07 PM Pacific Standard Time, aaronw@wsu.edu > writes: > > > >>BTW, the new pump works quite well. Next up: replace the license plate > > illumination that a PO decided my car didn't need. Maybe someday I will > > have reverse lights too.<< > > List member, aeseeyou (me) has a suggestion on how you can "painlessly" > change the pointed bulbs in the lamps on each side of the license plate. > Attach a piece of either cellophane or masking tape to the bulb before Very good suggestion, though I won't need it right now. When I said "replace the license plate illumination", I meant replace it all. The PO not only removed the bulb, he removed the entire assembly, leaving only a shell. To finish the job, he removed the wire leads as well. The same applies for the reverse lights, except the housing is gone too, replaced with bondo/paint (actually, this was done really well!). The plate lamps are easy to replace, so that is why they are up next. -- Aaron Whiteman -- Thoughts of graduation vaguely apply. My opinions are mine and do not reflect the views of the University. '75 B http://www.wsu.edu/~aaronpw/MG/ :wq /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 7 16:45:53 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 10:20:11 +1030 Subject: A lovely collection It is amazing how you bump into them, isn't it!? I was helping one of our customers (over the phone) and mentioned that I had an MG. He said he had a few of them and sent me some pix. Check out his collection (I keep saying that Adelaide has an amazing amount of these cars). It is a large image, so be prepared for a possible lengthy download - I might ask him if I can post all the other pix, too. http://www.erickson.on.net/mgb/harper1.jpg -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 7 17:44:39 2001 From: "Tim Economu" To: "MG List" Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 16:45:01 -0800 Subject: Listquest Subject: Listquest I noticed the listquest.com archives of all the team.net lists is gone :( Was there an announcement posted? Are list archives available anywhere else? >>> I noticed the same problem. I mean it has been down before...but not for long. I've been trying for two weeks now.... Kind regards, Tim 1969 MGB/GT +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 7 21:45:45 2001 From: "Bob D." To: Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 23:53:23 -0500 Subject: only a test test /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 8 07:08:22 2001 From: To: "Tim Economu" , "MG List" Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 13:51:47 -0000 Subject: Re: Listquest The question of the archive came up many months ago, at that time nothing new had been added for a long while. So if they have vanished altogether now that doesn't really surprise me. > I noticed the listquest.com archives of all the team.net lists is > gone :( Was there an announcement posted? Are list archives > available anywhere else? > >>> > > I noticed the same problem. I mean it has been down before...but not for > long. I've been trying for two weeks now.... /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 8 10:05:40 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: Derek Vandivere , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 09:34:07 -0600 Subject: Re: FW: Engine dies : 1978 MGB Derek Vandivere wrote: > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark Dawson [mailto:torchbone@yahoo.com] > Sent: Friday, 07 December, 2001 11:28 > To: dersk@usa.net > Subject: Engine dies : 1978 MGB > > Hi there, > > Currently having a problem with the engine sputtering > and dying while driving along - very inconvenient. So > here's the setup: desmogged 78 B, Weber downdraft > carb, new fuel pump, clean fuel filter, new K&N > airfilter. > > Checked distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, all ok. > Not sure how to check mixture on the Weber, but the > plugs are not fouled and exhaust does not smell > terrible. Checked the timing, it was advanced about > 3/4 of an inch beyond timing marks. (?!) Adjusted it > to 10 degrees BTDC, as per sticker under the bonnet. > Idle set at 1000 RPM. This does not, however, affect > the problem of dying. > > So what happens: the car will occasionally sputter and > die while sitting at a light. This behaviour seems to > get worse as the car warms up (coil? vapor lock?) > > If you push the gas pedal in when it starts to > sputter, it will die completely. If you pump it a > little it may catch and keep on running. If you keep > it idling at ~1500-2000RPM it will continue running. > > If it dies, it acts like it's dieseling, then there is > a terrible whirring sound coming from the Weber, then > a puff of smoke as it dies. I'm not at all sure what > would cause the whirring sound, but it doesn't sound > pleasant. > > Any clues as to what to look for? Also, is there a > good reason why a mechanic had set the timing so far > advanced? (Note, changing the timing did not alter > this behaviour one way or the other.) I have had similar behavior with MGB, Victor MG-TF, Mini Cooper S and Volvos. In most cases, it was the electric fuel pump. When they get warm, they fail more. The sound from the carby is from going lean & the engine not firing: a roaring, sucking sound. Lean mix causes the engine to backfire through the carb = puff of smoke. Good way to test for this is to cut the ignition very briefly and turn it back on quickly. This cycles the pump points and will usually start it pumping again. Be very careful doing this while running down the road if you have a steering lock. "good reason why a mechanic had set the timing so far advanced? Mechanic was a relative of "finger-tight Malcolm?" ;) -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 8 10:33:17 2001 From: mg-dennis@mindspring.com To: "mgs@autox.team.net" Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 09:29:27 -0800 Subject: Body and paint Right now my MGB is close to having all the bodywork finished. I have the doors, hood, trunk, fenders, everything off the body. The guy I'm working with is suggesting painting the fenders off of the car. It looks looks like the fenders where on the car when it was painted at the factory. Is it okay to paint them off the car? One of my concerns is the way the seams will look and seal where the fender attaches to the cowl. Any suggestions or experiences on assembling a freshly painted MG? Dennis Cox 67 MGB Gray primer in pieces... /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 8 12:09:12 2001 From: Barrie Robinson To: buick-rover-v8@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net, mgb-v8@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 14:05:13 -0500 Subject: Montebanks & Charlatons I have received the latest J C Whitney and was disappointed to see on page 59 and 200 that they sold a type of device that has long been recognized as a rip-off. I refer to the "FuelBoss Magnetic Fuel Saver" The sale of this type of device was effectively stopped in the UK by making the seller prove the claims - claims were often found fraudulent. Canada has some wishy-washy laws I think which I am going to look into. As motor enthusiasts I feel we should help protect each other from this blatant type hocus-pocus. May I suggest that we ALL write, email, phone J C Whitney and say we will not only stop buying from them but will also spread the word unless they stop selling such garbage - After all it only cheapens their image. I will no longer buy stuff from them because what else is a cunningly concealed rip-off. Please, please do it now EMAIL TO WWW.JCWHITNEY.COM NOW Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 8 12:13:36 2001 From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" To: , Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 13:59:07 -0600 Subject: Re: Body and paint Dennis, Personally I do mine on the car. That way you can have all the bolts in and theres less chance of scratching paint. You can leave them loose in certain areas so the spray penetrates small crevices and then tightened them down after drying. When I had my B done I left the windshield off so that area could be painted properly. I prefer to put the doors on too and have the painter mask around them and paint the door jams, that's what your paying him for. Let him do the work , and you can sweat a little less too. If you scratch a panel before painting who cares, sand it a little bit and the paint will cover it. My 2cents. Have fun with it. Mark A good layer of a good undercoat inside the wheels helps fend off future rust and deadens some road noise. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2001 11:29 AM Subject: Body and paint > Right now my MGB is close to having all the bodywork finished. I have > the doors, hood, trunk, fenders, everything off the body. The guy I'm > working with is suggesting painting the fenders off of the car. It > looks looks like the fenders where on the car when it was painted at the > factory. Is it okay to paint them off the car? One of my concerns is > the way the seams will look and seal where the fender attaches to the > cowl. Any suggestions or experiences on assembling a freshly painted > MG? > > Dennis Cox > 67 MGB Gray primer in pieces... /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 8 12:40:27 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Eric , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 11:38:29 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: A lovely collection Eric, you mean he has MORE in addition to these?? Wow.... --- Eric wrote: I might ask him if I can post all the other pix, too. ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) '66-ish 18GB-U-H 39633 NAMGBR #5-2328 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 8 12:42:29 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Barrie Robinson , buick-rover-v8@autox.team.net, Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 11:40:32 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Montebanks & Charlatons Hmmm, and their image today is....? ;-) --- Barrie Robinson wrote: After all it only cheapens their image. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 8 14:12:10 2001 From: GW71MGB@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 16:11:20 EST Subject: Re: Corroless vs POR15 I love POR15. I think it's a great product line. I don't have any long term data yet on how good a job it does after a couple of years, but from everything I've seen and heard it's pretty solid. Gary /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 8 16:10:22 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 09:46:34 +1030 Subject: Re: A lovely collection Dan DiBiase wrote: > > Eric, you mean he has MORE in addition to these?? Wow.... > More pictures, Dan! I don't think he has more cars... but hey, he might :-) -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 8 17:07:00 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Aeseeyou@aol.com Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 16:06:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: A lovely collection Especially if they were framed by my garage doors!! --- Aeseeyou@aol.com wrote: "Suitible for framing" Wouldn't you concur, Dan? ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) '66-ish 18GB-U-H 39633 NAMGBR #5-2328 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 8 18:47:40 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 12:16:55 +1030 Subject: Re: A lovely collection Eric wrote: > > Dan DiBiase wrote: > > > > Eric, you mean he has MORE in addition to these?? Wow.... > > > > More pictures, Dan! I don't think he has more cars... but hey, he might :-) > OK, for the 'picturists' amongst you, here is the complete collection of images that Tim Harper sent me of his little cars lined up in the local park! Enjoy! http://www.erickson.on.net/mgb/harper/ If you want to communicate with Tim directly, let me know (off list) and I will pass your addresses on to him and see if he would mind me passing his address on more broadly. I might ask him to join this list but he seems rather busy at the moment with life, his family, his business et al. -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 8 21:16:45 2001 From: "Mike Winney" To: Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 21:22:09 -0700 Subject: Corroless vs POR 15 ---Ken wrote----- Anyone with experience using Corroless and POR15 have any comments which is best for rust prevention. I've used both products extensively with the following observations. While one or the other can be used in many applications, Corroless also is available in aerosol form which allows it to be sprayed into areas not accessable to a brush. I used POR-15 on the frame and suspension pieces of an XK-150 in 1992. It dried slowly, but cured hard as a rock and is stable. I've used Corroless for years with excellent results, i.e. no change in surfaces applied to years later. It's good to spray it in the bottom of doors as it seeps into the joints. I recently saturated all the hard to access areas of my BGT. It is not cheap, but neither is rust! Mike Winney /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 05:30:00 2001 From: "Larry B. Macy" To: Dan DiBiase , Barrie Robinson Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 07:29:09 -0500 Subject: Re: Montebanks & Charlatons Purveyor of high quality automotive paraphernalia, of course. Or perhaps high quality restoration items for the budget minded?? Or ..... Come on Dan get with it ;-) Larry At this exact moment in time: 12/8/01 2:40 PM, "Dan DiBiase" made the profound revelation: > Hmmm, and their image today is....? ;-) > > --- Barrie Robinson wrote: > After all it only cheapens their image. > -- Larry Macy 78 Midget Keep your top down and your chin up. Larry B. Macy, Ph.D. macy@bbl.med.upenn.edu System Manager/Administrator Neuropsychiatry Section Department of Psychiatry University of Pennsylvania 3400 Spruce St. - 10 Gates Philadelphia, PA 19104 Ask a question and you're a fool for three minutes; do not ask a question and you're a fool for the rest of your life. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 05:42:17 2001 From: "Larry B. Macy" To: , Tim Economu , Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 07:41:37 -0500 Subject: Re: Listquest Mark has some of them on line For instance this works: http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/spridgets#search For the Spridget list, but changing spridgets for mgs doesn't. So I am not sure if the MG files are there or not. Doesn't seem like the search works either, but browsing does. Larry At this exact moment in time: 12/8/01 8:51 AM, "paul.hunt1@virgin.net" made the profound revelation: > The question of the archive came up many months ago, at that time nothing > new had been added for a long while. So if they have vanished altogether > now that doesn't really surprise me. > >> I noticed the listquest.com archives of all the team.net lists is >> gone :( Was there an announcement posted? Are list archives >> available anywhere else? >>>>> >> >> I noticed the same problem. I mean it has been down before...but not for >> long. I've been trying for two weeks now.... > -- Larry Macy 78 Midget Keep your top down and your chin up. Larry B. Macy, Ph.D. macy@bbl.med.upenn.edu System Manager/Administrator Neuropsychiatry Section Department of Psychiatry University of Pennsylvania 3400 Spruce St. - 10 Gates Philadelphia, PA 19104 Ask a question and you're a fool for three minutes; do not ask a question and you're a fool for the rest of your life. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 08:00:51 2001 From: Trmgafun@aol.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 09:59:09 EST Subject: Stolen 1.5 Hi everyone, This may not be your marque, but it may be a car that you can look out for....... If so, contact David@pipeline35.co.uk Thanks! (read below) Subj: Stolen 1.5 Date: 12/9/01 4:13:35 AM US Eastern Standard Time From: David@pipeline35.fsnet.co.uk (David Pipes) Sender: owner-riley@autox.team.net To: riley@autox.team.net A Riley 1.5 was stolen in the Manchester area (UK) during the weekend of 10/11th November. Details as follows: Reg No. 3312 TJ Colour Grey Chassis No. R-H52-6883 Engine No. 15RD-U-4-2252 Eng. Size 1489cc Much of the glass had been broken in a previous incident. If this car, or if any parts you suspect may be from this car, are offered to you or you see them for sale in the local press, auto jumbles or in breakers yards, please phone Aled Owen on 01942 896118 immediately. -- David Pipes '54 Riley RME editor@rileymotorclub.org david@pipeline35.fsnet.co.uk /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 08:28:44 2001 From: "Rick Brown" To: "mglist" Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 10:27:54 -0500 Subject: FREE SEATS I need to make some room in the barn - I have two seats from my 74 BGT which I replaced with Pontiac Fiero Seats - the frames and seats are in good condition - one even has new foam bottom and back. THey will need to be recovered. I also have a Vinyl covered seat from a roadster which is also in good shape. All are free but you must pick them up in New Jersey. Email me off list. Rick --------- http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil ---------- http://members.home.net/brown409 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 08:36:05 2001 From: "Larry Hoy" To: "'MG List'" Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 08:35:23 -0700 Subject: RE: Listquest Not sure why Mark has chosen just a few list archives to make searchable. Perhaps it is a big job to set them up and he's doing it piecemeal; or maybe he's still working out the bugs in the search engine. As far as I know the searchable ones are at: http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma Larry Hoy > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net > [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry B. Macy > Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2001 5:42 AM > To: paul.hunt1@virgin.net; Tim Economu; MG List > Subject: Re: Listquest > > > Mark has some of them on line > > For instance this works: > > http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/spridgets#search > > For the Spridget list, but changing spridgets for mgs doesn't. > > So I am not sure if the MG files are there or not. > > Doesn't seem like the search works either, but browsing does. > > Larry Macy /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 10:46:22 2001 From: Barrie Robinson To: mgs@autox.team.net, mgb-v8@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 15:01:39 -0500 Subject: Don Scott Would Don Scott who ordered a set of O-rings for MGB dash gauges please email me - Your last email address failed. Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 10:47:36 2001 From: Barrie Robinson To: buick-rover-v8@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net, mgb-v8@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 14:55:00 -0500 Subject: Montebanks & Charlatons PART 2 Sorry, I forgot to mention that I have written to JC Whitney as President of the Maserati Car Club of Canada requesting they drop the product. If any of you out there can write on behalf of your club then please do so. You might do a search for Liphardt & Associates - I can find reference to them but not them - Do they exist???? In doing a search you will see how huge this rip-off has become. It is amazing as any 16 year old scientifically inclined child can show how bogus it is ! I have received the latest J C Whitney and was disappointed to see on page 59 and 200 that they sold a type of device that has long been recognized as a rip-off. I refer to the "FuelBoss Magnetic Fuel Saver" The sale of this type of device was effectively stopped in the UK by making the seller prove the claims - claims were often found fraudulent. Canada has some wishy-washy laws I think which I am going to look into. As motor enthusiasts I feel we should help protect each other from this blatant type hocus-pocus. May I suggest that we ALL write, email, phone J C Whitney and say we will not only stop buying from them but will also spread the word unless they stop selling such garbage - After all it only cheapens their image. I will no longer buy stuff from them because what else is a cunningly concealed rip-off. Please, please do it now EMAIL TO WWW.JCWHITNEY.COM NOW Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 11:04:59 2001 From: Barrie Robinson To: "Glen Wilson" Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 12:56:50 -0500 Subject: RE: Montebanks & Charlatons Ladies & Gentlemen, I apologise. I thought JC Whitney was a supplier of some worth. Now I am informed I will, in future, read their catalogue with humour rather than interest - and never buy anything. At 04:34 PM 12/8/01 -0500, Glen Wilson wrote: >Geez, Barrie! What would the JC Whitney catalog be if they took all of that >stuff out of it: no fun to read anymore! Anyone who buys a product like >that, even if he has no automotive knowledge whatsoever, is trying to get >something for nothing and hasn't enough sense not to be suckered into a deal >that is clearly too good to be true. This sort of person, whether naive or >or motivated by some baser instinct, is a born victim who has much more to >fear from other nefarious individuals not employed by JC Whitney. Besides, >if you start with JC Whitney, you are clearly obligated to go after Popular >Science and Popular Mechanics and God knows how many others. > >Glen > > > > > > > > > I have received the latest J C Whitney and was disappointed to > > see on page > > 59 and 200 that they sold a type of device that has long been > > recognized as > > a rip-off. I refer to the "FuelBoss Magnetic Fuel Saver" The > > sale of this > > type of device was effectively stopped in the UK by making the > > seller prove > > the claims - claims were often found fraudulent. Canada has some > > wishy-washy laws I think which I am going to look into. As motor > > enthusiasts I feel we should help protect each other from this > > blatant type > > hocus-pocus. May I suggest that we ALL write, email, phone J C > > Whitney and > > say we will not only stop buying from them but will also spread the word > > unless they stop selling such garbage - After all it only cheapens their > > image. I will no longer buy stuff from them because what else is a > > cunningly concealed rip-off. > > > > Please, please do it now > > > > EMAIL TO WWW.JCWHITNEY.COM NOW /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 11:21:02 2001 From: Barrie Robinson To: Randall Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 13:12:37 -0500 Subject: Re: Montebanks & Charlatons Randall, I write for a Canadian computer magazine and my theme is Canadian apathy (when compared to the Germans, Japanese and Chinese) -so getting on an old nag with a cardboard lance and tilting at such things is really up my alley. Just imagine if we all tilted? At 11:57 PM 12/8/01 -0800, you wrote: >Barrie : > >JCW has been selling that kind of junk for over 30 years that I know of, >it's their trademark. > >I'm certainly not going to tell you not to call, email, and boycott >them; but I honestly think you're tilting at a windmill. > >Randall - NFI, but a reasonably satisfied longtime customer > >Barrie Robinson wrote: > > > > I have received the latest J C Whitney and was disappointed to see on page > > 59 and 200 that they sold a type of device that has long been recognized as > > a rip-off. I refer to the "FuelBoss Magnetic Fuel Saver" The sale of this > > type of device was effectively stopped in the UK by making the seller prove > > the claims - claims were often found fraudulent. Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 12:34:26 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: "Larry B. Macy" , Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 11:33:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Montebanks & Charlatons Keep trying, Larry...! Last item I ordered from them was the 'reproduction' '65 Mustang wheel covers for my '73 Maverick. That would have been back around 1980 or 1981. I miss that car. Dan PS I think I just received my final 'This May Be Your Last Catalog!' catalog about a year ago!!! /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 14:47:45 2001 From: Zach Dorsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 13:46:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Body and paint Dennis, I think that I am reading correctly, but are you concerned with how the fenders will line up with body? The panels should always be trial fitted before painting. The PO of my car didn't bother to do this and the driver side door hits the driver side fender as a result. Zach '73 B /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 15:16:53 2001 From: Eddie Sheffield To: Dan DiBiase , Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 17:13:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Montebanks & Charlatons I've ordered a couple of things from them lately, and the items have been OK. But gets me is the shipping & handling. It's outrageous! Especially if your just buying a few small, inexpensive items. Seems like the MINIMUM S&H is something like $12.00, and it's based on the cost of the items, not the size or weight. So buy 15.00 worth of screws and trims parts (like I did) and pay almost as much in shipping. Yeesh! Only saving grace was that they did turn out to be very good quality, I got a whole mess of them, and they were still cheaper than buying far fewer of the same things from Mo$$. ;-) BTW, even after my two recent orders, I *still* don't get catalogs from them. Not that I miss them, really. Just seems odd since they have a reputation for sending them forever. Eddie 1971 Midget On Sunday 09 December 2001 02:33 pm, Dan DiBiase wrote: > Keep trying, Larry...! Last item I ordered from them was the > 'reproduction' '65 Mustang wheel covers for my '73 Maverick. That would > have been back around 1980 or 1981. I miss that car. > > Dan > > PS I think I just received my final 'This May Be Your Last Catalog!' > catalog about a year ago!!! /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 18:10:00 2001 From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 17:02:20 -0800 Subject: Plug Gap Hi all I think I figured out my Rough running problem, I checked the plugs and they are all burnt, my hypothesise is that Ocatagon Motor group sent me the wrong plug. They are too hot for the motor, so I got a new set of colder plugs, I beleve this should fix the problem, My delemia is that I am away from home and cant get to my shop manual, anyone know the gap size for a 18V motor? Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 18:38:04 2001 From: Carl W French To: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck , Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 20:37:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Plug Gap John Twist says to go out to .035 but everyone has an opinion ranging from .028 and up. What kind of plugs did you get? What did you have before? Carl 67 & 80B both with NGK plugs >anyone know the gap size for a 18V motor? >Adam Schellinck >1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 18:51:43 2001 From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 17:44:05 -0800 Subject: Re: Plug Gap I had NKG and they came out Black and a light brown around the electrodes, I replaced them with autolite nice thing about them is they are garanteed for 2 years. I whent with .25 as myne is a 1970 and that is what MGcars.co.uk recomended. Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 9 23:32:18 2001 From: Michael C Taglieri To: barrier@bconnex.net Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 01:15:12 -0500 Subject: Re: Montebanks & Charlatons I don't think it's necessary to go that far. JCW sells many good tools and parts at bargain prices. They also sell magical items to cater to the desires and illusions of the fringe of the public who are the market for such items. The pills you drop in your spark-plug holes to "rebuild your top end as you drive" are probably the most famous of these items, and Car Talk has been ridiculing these for years, but they stay in the catalog and keep selling, maybe because some people don't WANT to give up their illusions about car repair, magnets, or many other things. Haven't you ever picked up a supermarket tabloid and read about the latest sighting of Elvis. space aliens, babies with bat-ears, etc.? The same folks that go for these are buying the magnets and the magic pills from Whitney, and they'd be unhappy if they couldn't. It's pretty easy to tell which kind of item you're looking at in the catalog, so just relax read it as car parts catalog that's also giving you a glimpse into a wacky corner of American life. Mike Taglieri -- miket-nyc@juno.com On Sun, 09 Dec 2001 12:56:50 -0500 Barrie Robinson writes: > Ladies & Gentlemen, > > I apologise. I thought JC Whitney was a supplier of some worth. Now I am > informed I will, in future, read their catalogue with humour rather than > interest - and never buy anything. > > > At 04:34 PM 12/8/01 -0500, Glen Wilson wrote: > > >Geez, Barrie! What would the JC Whitney catalog be if they took all of that > >stuff out of it: no fun to read anymore! Anyone who buys a product like > >that, even if he has no automotive knowledge whatsoever, is trying to get > >something for nothing and hasn't enough sense not to be suckered into a deal > >that is clearly too good to be true. This sort of person, whether naive or > >or motivated by some baser instinct, is a born victim who has much more to > >fear from other nefarious individuals not employed by JC Whitney. Besides, > >if you start with JC Whitney, you are clearly obligated to go after Popular > >Science and Popular Mechanics and God knows how many others. > > > >Glen ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 02:33:53 2001 From: To: "Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck" , Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:05:35 -0000 Subject: Re: Plug Gap Factory Workshop Manual says .025 for the 25D distributor and .035 for the 45D. The higher you go the greater the HT voltage and the more likely to get breakdowns in the HT circuit. ----- Original Message ----- From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 1:02 AM Subject: Plug Gap > Hi all I think I figured out my Rough running problem, I checked the plugs and they are all burnt, my hypothesise is that Ocatagon Motor group sent me the wrong plug. They are too hot for the motor, so I got a new set of colder plugs, I beleve this should fix the problem, My delemia is that I am away from home and cant get to my shop manual, anyone know the gap size for a 18V motor? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 08:01:55 2001 From: steveb5815@juno.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:00:41 -0500 Subject: MGB tires/rims for sale delete if no interest Just remembered- I have a set of new tires on Rostyle wheels that were on my '79. They are Kuhmo 195/65R-14 with about 1k miles on them. I intended to use them on the '76 project and were removed from the '79 when I got the Mini Lites and 195/65R-14's. The Rostyes are clean and painted with factory trim rings and centers. Located in Rhode Island. $300.00 for all. Thanks again. Please contact me off list if interested. Steve Bettencourt '79 MGB Warren, RI, USA /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 08:02:43 2001 From: steveb5815@juno.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:52:09 -0500 Subject: Parts car offer delete if no interest Hi All, I need to make room for my '79 B so the '76 future project must go. It is a project car with rust in the usual places. I pulled the right 3/4 nose for my '79 a few years ago and put on some old parts so it wouldn't look so bad. Here are the details: -1976 MGB roadster -no interior -engine runs -transmission -Dyna-plastic hard top (need to confirm company name) -extra doors (drv & pass) -new castle rails (not installed) -new left side rocker panel (not installed) -all the glass is there I pulled the seats out so mice wouldn't make a home in them and I ripped one apart to make upholstery patterns. There is no top frame because I used it on the '79 (I may be getting an extra one soon). I had intended to pull the tranny for the '79 because it shifts much better. I am in Rhode Island. If any one cars to make an offer for the whole thing of to see it please contact me off list. If someone needs just the tub (ie: all suspension but no motor/tranny), I will give it to them. Someone in the local area wants it I may even be able to flat tow it to them. Thanks for letting me take up some bandwidth. Steve Bettencourt '79 MGB Warren, RI http://www.bmcne.com webmaster@bmcne.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 08:53:59 2001 From: "Dereck C" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 15:53:25 +0000 Subject: LBC for sale sightings Thought I would mention some LBC for sale sightings. 1972 Tri##ph GT6 in Berryville VA. Not too good of shape rust and poor interior. Sitting out in the rain Saturday. Have the number written down in the car. Email me and I will get it to you. 3 Mini's in Arlington VA just south of Reagan National Airport. On the Porsche/Audi lot. Expensive little buggers, guy wants 22K for a 1968 Cooper. Other two around 12K and 18K, can't remember exactly. Nice little cars. Paper in the window says he has more. Dereck 70 B PS Missing that archive, willing to make a donation if it comes to that. All of that advice and experience in priceless. _________________________________________________________________ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 09:35:35 2001 From: To: Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 16:04:51 -0000 Subject: UKP7 per year depreciation Sold my Mum's Mini for her last week, she's decided to give up driving. Got #500 for it which considering she only paid #700 isn't bad, #7 depreciation per year! She's had it from new and only done 54k - barely run in. Was good condition outside and pretty-well imaculate inside. Got all bills and receipts including the original bill of sale, sadly she didn't know she should have kept all the old MOTs and tax discs and I didn't know she wasn't. She's also passing on a book of unused petrol coupons from the early 70s when either tanker driver strikes or revolting Arabs threatened petrol supplies. Buyer has a small business restoring Minis and plans to use it himself for a time, glad it will carry on for a while yet. PaulH. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 10:14:50 2001 From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 00:53:41 -0800 Subject: Windscreen leaks Ok here is the problem, The MGB is leaking profusely but only in one spot the water seems to run down the back of the dash and drip down on to my leg. It drips down from the place in the dash where the steering wheel comes though. Any thoughts as to where the water is leaking in from and working its way down? Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 10:33:13 2001 From: Barrie Robinson To: mgs@autox.team.net, mgb-v8@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 12:32:49 -0500 Subject: MGB O-rings for gauges. Folks, If you are doing up your MGB dash then this may be of interest. I always seem to get called for these and I send them out - then I am left with a few extra sets. I have three sets left. These are for the gauges on pre-big dials (1977?) Each gauge needs two O-rings, one for against the dash and one for the glass to bezel. The latter is not available from any other source that I know of, and do not appear in the Brit-Vic or Moss catalogue. This I find strange as these are the ones that are usually reduced to black grit!! The price is $10 for a complete set of 8, including shipping, handling, postage, envelops, labels, plastic bag, smiles, confirmation, pleasant disposition and a Merry Xmas. Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 10:38:37 2001 From: Skye Poier To: MG Nuts Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:38:06 -0800 Subject: Re: Plug Gap Word on the street is that Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck said: > Hi all I think I figured out my Rough running problem, I checked the plugs and they are all burnt, my hypothesise is that Ocatagon Motor group sent me the wrong plug. They are too hot for the motor, so I got a new set of colder plugs, I beleve this should fix the problem, My delemia is that I am away from home and cant get to my shop manual, anyone know the gap size for a 18V motor? > Adam Schellinck > 1970 MGB Roadster .25 for stock, .35 if you have a 40kV (sport) coil I find it hard to believe OMG would send you the wrong plugs!! I always use NGK BP6ES Skye 66 B -- 1966 MGB - GHN3L Safety Fast! __,__\__ The MGB Experience www.mgbexperience.com (_o____o_) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 10:36:38 2001 From: "Dave Wood" To: "mgs" Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:33:05 -0800 Subject: Re: Windscreen leaks Charlie, My 72 developed leaks when the air intake in front of the windscreen filled with leaves and junk. This prevents rain from passing through to the ground and leaks through to your leg by way of the air intake tubes. All you need to do is to crawl under the car and clear the bulb that is attached to the tube that drains the air intake vent. The hole in the vent is on the passenger side of the vent on LHD cars. For a quick fix (don't want to get under the car) you can siphon the collected water out of the air intake vent with a 3/8" or so plastic hose. I picked up a magnetic vent seal (for lack of a better term) to place over the air vent when the car sits in the rain. It prevents rain and leaves and such from collecting in the vent area. It's done a great job. Dave 72 B ----- Original Message ----- Ok here is the problem, The MGB is leaking profusely but only in one spot the water seems to run down the back of the dash and drip down on to my leg. It drips down from the place in the dash where the steering wheel comes though. Any thoughts as to where the water is leaking in from and working its way down? Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 12:53:13 2001 From: Dart Budz To: Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 13:52:15 -0600 (CST) Subject: Rubber tube out of radiator cap? I was attaching the front license plate holder and I found a rubber tube that looks about 3/8 inch thick dangling. On closer inspection,I found it connected to the top of the radiator, just below the radiator cap. I have a 72 mgb. My first reaction was that this might be an overflow, but then i remember the car was designed by the british who never put anything extra on. I have looked in a few manuals and cannot find if or where this rubber hose should connect. Thanks for the help in advance. Dart Budz "No man is a failure who is enjoying life."- William Feather /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 13:12:35 2001 From: Larry Macy To: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck , Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 15:12:03 -0500 Subject: Re: Windscreen leaks Umm Keep it out of the rain?? Sorry couldn't help myself - slow day. Larry At this exact moment in time 12/10/01 3:53 AM, "Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck" made the profound statement: > Ok here is the problem, The MGB is leaking profusely but only in one spot the > water seems to run down the back of the dash and drip down on to my leg. It > drips down from the place in the dash where the steering wheel comes though. > Any thoughts as to where the water is leaking in from and working its way > down? > Adam Schellinck > 1970 MGB Roadster -- Larry B. Macy, Ph.D. macy@bbl.med.upenn.edu System Administrator/Manager Neuropsychiatry Section Department of Psychiatry University of Pennsylvania 3400 Spruce St. - 1015 Gates Philadelphia, PA 19104 "Don't be afraid to ask dumb questions, they are a lot easier to handle than dumb mistakes. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 13:20:25 2001 From: Dr David McNaughton To: Larry Macy Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 20:19:41 +0000 Subject: Re: Windscreen leaks Windscreen wiper boss grommet? David 73 MG B GT 90 Jaguar XJR 4Lt In message , Larry Macy writes >Umm Keep it out of the rain?? > >Sorry couldn't help myself - slow day. > >Larry > >At this exact moment in time 12/10/01 3:53 AM, "Charlie & Jennifer >Schellinck" made the profound statement: > >> Ok here is the problem, The MGB is leaking profusely but only in one spot the >> water seems to run down the back of the dash and drip down on to my leg. It >> drips down from the place in the dash where the steering wheel comes >though. >> Any thoughts as to where the water is leaking in from and working its way >> down? >> Adam Schellinck >> 1970 MGB Roadster > > >-- >Larry B. Macy, Ph.D. >macy@bbl.med.upenn.edu >System Administrator/Manager >Neuropsychiatry Section >Department of Psychiatry >University of Pennsylvania >3400 Spruce St. - 1015 Gates >Philadelphia, PA 19104 > > > "Don't be afraid to ask dumb questions, they are a lot easier to > handle than dumb mistakes. > -- Dr David M McNaughton Haddington East Lothian Radio GM8 KOF /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 13:49:44 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 07:19:18 +1030 Subject: Re: Rubber tube out of radiator cap? Dart Budz wrote: > > I was attaching the front license plate holder and I found a rubber tube > that looks about 3/8 inch thick dangling. On closer inspection,I found > it connected to the top of the radiator, just below the radiator cap. I > have a 72 mgb. My first reaction was that this might be an overflow, but > then i remember the car was designed by the british who never put anything > extra on. Sorry Dart, but what else would it be? Check out the 'neck' of the radiator (below the radiator cap) for the nipple that it fits on. I would hardly call this an 'extra'. -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 13:58:43 2001 From: Aaron Whiteman To: Dart Budz Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 12:58:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Rubber tube out of radiator cap? On Mon, 10 Dec 2001, Dart Budz wrote: > it connected to the top of the radiator, just below the radiator cap. I > have a 72 mgb. My first reaction was that this might be an overflow, but > then i remember the car was designed by the british who never put anything > extra on. I have looked in a few manuals and cannot find if or where this Indeed. That tube is the overflow, where excess coolant can flow out of the radiator onto the ground. Would have been nice for it to go into an expansion tank, but it wasn't fitted until 77(?). It doesn't 'go' anywhere, so it sounds like it is set up correctly. -- My opinions are mine, and do not reflect the view of the university. http://www.wsu.edu/~aaronpw/ Security, like correctness, is not an add-on feature. -- Andrew S. Tanenbaum /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 14:02:39 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 14:53:34 -0600 Subject: Re: Rubber tube out of radiator cap? Dart Budz wrote: > > I was attaching the front license plate holder and I found a rubber tube > that looks about 3/8 inch thick dangling. On closer inspection,I found > it connected to the top of the radiator, just below the radiator cap. I > have a 72 mgb. My first reaction was that this might be an overflow, but > then i remember the car was designed by the british who never put anything > extra on. I have looked in a few manuals and cannot find if or where this > rubber hose should connect. Thanks for the help in advance. It's a pressure overflow tube. I've had one on all my Minis and MGs. If the pressure exceeds the pressure rating of the cap, the steam/coolant that's released by the cap goes down through this tube. -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 14:05:24 2001 From: "Ryan, Wesley" To: "'Garner, Joseph P.'" , Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 15:59:58 -0500 Subject: Breather on Engine Cover To all: I have recently put on a Weber carburetor on a 76 mgb. I have a engine cover with a breather and I was curious of where to send it to. I believe it originally goes to the canister filter but since I don't have the Weber hooked up to it can I just plug the breather or does it still need to go somewhere. Thanks in advance Wesley Ryan Project Engineer GI Plastek Phone: 937-645-4018 Fax: 937-642-5326 Cell: 937-243-0909 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 14:01:16 2001 From: "Garner, Joseph P." To: "MG list (E-mail)" Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 13:02:09 -0800 Subject: bloody breather gaskets hi everyone. The saga continues. Whilst i had the manifold off this weekend, i thought i'd replace the gaskets on those funny side panels on the engine block (there being minor leaks from each). it turned out most of the leak was from the grommets around the bolts. anyway, i should have left well alone. The gasket for the panel which connects to the crankcase breather hose was an absolute and complete bitch. unlike the the other panel which had a nice grove for the gasket to sit in, this one is just a flat face, and seeing as the gasket was a 3/16 inch thick piece of rubber it was virtually impossible to get it to sit right. after three tries and bolting it down hard it looked like i had it, but the steady drip of oil tells me otherwise. apparrently these panels are the really common leak spot, so someone else must have replaced them! so any tricks or tips? should i give up on the moss gasket and just cut myself a new one out of a thinner material? I could then gasket-goop it in place without risk of it slipping when it is bolted down. I really want to get this right, because it is a phenomenal ball ache to take the manifold off each time (not to mention having to buy new gaskets for the manifold and all of the intake gubbins). all advice greatly appreciated cheers Joe __________________________ Dr. Joseph Garner, University of California, Department of Animal Science, One Shields Avenue, Davis, CA 95616 USA Phone: (530) 752 1253 Fax: (530) 752 0175 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 14:30:58 2001 From: David Littlefield To: JPGarner@UCDavis.Edu Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 15:24:55 -0600 Subject: Re: bloody breather gaskets You don't say which motor you're trying to stick these on. 1098 and 948 A series motors had them, as well as all B series motors. It doesn't make a lot of difference, except that the later B series (MGB 1800's) had different breather systems that the early (MGA 1500, 1600, 1622). My point is that my experience is with the MGA version so I don't know how instructions may differ for the later MGB motors with different breathers on the panels. In any case-- Get yourself a tube of 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive aka Yellow Elephant Snot. It is basically a rubber cement. Follow the directions on the tube, especially that bit about waiting at least five minutes before putting the two pieces together. Use it to glue the gaskets to the panels. Just to be sure, I put the two panels together, gasket to gasket, and clamp them in a vise overnight. I use a sparing amount of Hylomar on the block side of the gasket, after making sure there is absolutely no oil on the block or the gasket (laquer thinner is a good degreaser for this, but watch the paint!). Hylomar is available from Moss or your local Jaguar dealer. Some auto parts store have a Permatex version of Hylomar (made under license) but it ain't quite the same as the British version. Moss has both versions, the British is listed under a Jaguar part number. I use it for just about every sealing job on my MGs. David Littlefield '62 MGA MkII '51 MGTD '74 MG Midget vintage racer '88 Jaguar XJ-S On Mon, 10 Dec 2001 13:02:09 -0800 "Garner, Joseph P." writes: > hi everyone. > > The saga continues. Whilst i had the manifold off this weekend, i > thought > i'd replace the gaskets on those funny side panels on the engine > block > (there being minor leaks from each). it turned out most of the leak > was from > the grommets around the bolts. > > anyway, i should have left well alone. The gasket for the panel > which > connects to the crankcase breather hose was an absolute and complete > bitch. > unlike the the other panel which had a nice grove for the gasket to > sit in, > this one is just a flat face, and seeing as the gasket was a 3/16 > inch thick > piece of rubber it was virtually impossible to get it to sit right. > after > three tries and bolting it down hard it looked like i had it, but > the steady > drip of oil tells me otherwise. > > apparrently these panels are the really common leak spot, so someone > else > must have replaced them! > > so any tricks or tips? should i give up on the moss gasket and just > cut > myself a new one out of a thinner material? I could then gasket-goop > it in > place without risk of it slipping when it is bolted down. > > I really want to get this right, because it is a phenomenal ball > ache to > take the manifold off each time (not to mention having to buy new > gaskets > for the manifold and all of the intake gubbins). > > all advice greatly appreciated > > cheers > > Joe > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 14:34:01 2001 From: "mghirsch" To: Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 15:33:25 -0600 Subject: re:bloody breather gaskets I assume you mean the side cover gaskets. What you do is this: Clean off all the old gasket material and use either carb cleaner or brake cleaner to remove any old oil. Take RTV and put a thin layer on the cover, place the gasket on the RTV and let it set up some, then install. Maynard Hirsch /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 14:37:13 2001 From: "Graziano, Michael" To: "'spitfires@autox.team.net'" Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 21:33:32 -0000 Subject: Up for grabs -> Free '70 Spitfire in NY OK Folks, Here's the deal. The car I went to see yesterday was too much for me to take on (well... it was too much for me to convince my wife I could take on). The owner wants to give it away to someone who can get it running again (although at this point, I think he just wants to get it out of his yard). I think it's an early '70. It has a ZS, split black vinyl seats, split rear bumper, later dash without wood, hubcaps. I detected virtually no rust on the exterior body (which is in decent shape i.e. no dents, but could be rusty under the awful BRG paint). Battery tray is rusted though, and the floors look flimsy, but there. Trunk floor seems to be sound. The interior needs a lot of work, and there isn't much of a hood. But the lights, gauges, bonnet, etc are in good order. You just need to come and pick it up with a net cost of gas, tolls, and lunch for me (call it a finder's fee). As it was snowing when I looked at the car, I didn't get to really examine it, but if anyone's interested, I can go back there this Sunday with my digital camcorder to take some shots of it. Note: I did NOT get to check out the frame or suspension b/c of the snow. I have no idea what shape it's in. Contact me off list if interested. No financial interest except lunch. Car is located in Putnam County NY, 5 minutes from Westchester and maybe 45 minutes North of the George Washington Bridge. All snide remarks will be summarily deleted. Michael '78 Midget Michael Graziano Credit Suisse First Boston international Assistant Vice President Equity Derivatives Product Control 212-325-8646 Phone 212-325-8100 Fax This message is for the named person's use only. It may contain sensitive and private proprietary or legally privileged information. No confidentiality or privilege is waived or lost by any mistransmission. If you are not the intended recipient, please immediately delete it and all copies of it from your system, destroy any hard copies of it and notify the sender. You must not, directly or indirectly, use, disclose, distribute, print, or copy any part of this message if you are not the intended recipient. CREDIT SUISSE GROUP and each legal entity in the CREDIT SUISSE FIRST BOSTON or CREDIT SUISSE ASSET MANAGEMENT business units of CREDIT SUISSE FIRST BOSTON reserve the right to monitor all e-mail communications through its networks. Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender, except where the message states otherwise and the sender is authorized to state them to be the views of any such entity. Unless otherwise stated, any pricing information given in this message is indicative only, is subject to change and does not constitute an offer to deal at any price quoted. Any reference to the terms of executed transactions should be treated as preliminary only and subject to our formal written confirmation. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 15:22:27 2001 From: "Steve Shoyer" To: Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 17:22:22 -0500 Subject: Re: Breather on Engine Cover I've seen it done three different ways. I bought my car with a Weber installed, and the PO had placed a short K&N filter on the end of the breather tube. This didn't do much. I connected a tube (heater tubing was the right size) with the other end hanging under the car in the airstream. This is not particularly friendly to the environment. The other alternative is to connect the tube from the breather pipe to a fitting on the Weber's air filter. My filter didn't have the fitting, so I haven't tried this one, but I've seen it on a number of cars. --Steve (1980 MGB) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 15:39:10 2001 From: Skye Poier To: MG Nuts Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 14:38:37 -0800 Subject: Re: Windscreen leaks Word on the street is that Dave Wood said: > I picked up a magnetic vent seal (for lack of a better term) to place over > the air vent when the car sits in the rain. It prevents rain and leaves and > such from collecting in the vent area. It's done a great job. > > Dave 72 B Agreed, I consider the cover a must-have in the rainy NorthWest... When using it, make sure to remove the chrome intake trim and wire mesh (if you have one) and apply it directly to the body. That way it will actually stick and you can ignore Moss' advice not to drive with it on. It probably keeps more water out, too. You should also get the wire mesh that goes under the chrome thing, it keeps junk out of the intake that will clog it and cause leaks. Skye 66 B -- 1966 MGB - GHN3L Safety Fast! __,__\__ The MGB Experience www.mgbexperience.com (_o____o_) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 15:41:47 2001 From: Skye Poier To: MG Nuts Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 14:41:21 -0800 Subject: Re: Breather on Engine Cover Go to my site and look at "Weber Hose Routing" Skye 66 B -- 1966 MGB - GHN3L Safety Fast! __,__\__ The MGB Experience www.mgbexperience.com (_o____o_) Word on the street is that Ryan, Wesley said: > To all: > I have recently put on a Weber carburetor on a 76 mgb. I have a engine cover > with a breather and I was curious of where to send it to. I believe it > originally goes to the canister filter but since I don't have the Weber > hooked up to it can I just plug the breather or does it still need to go > somewhere. Thanks in advance /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 15:49:44 2001 From: "WCAMEYER" To: "Garner, Joseph P." , Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 15:49:25 -0700 Subject: Re: bloody breather gaskets Most gasket sets come with two pair of gaskets for this. I have been using the rubber one on the rear(grooved) plate and the cork on the front (flat) one. I do use copious amounts of silicone/whatever, as these are laeky SOB's. Bill /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 17:59:10 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: mgs Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 18:57:00 -0600 Subject: Re: tacho & also "Altitude" Ray: <<>> "Speed is Life; of course Luck and Altitude are helpful, too." <<>> Do you live in Denver where that mile high air is getting to you? RE "Altitude" /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 19:41:16 2001 From: Mgbbob@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 21:40:27 EST Subject: wanted: Crank pulley and timing cover Hi listers, I'm doing a complete rebuild on an early 5 main engine (GB-RU-11786) and in dire need of a crankshaft pulley. It's the one with the rubber vibration isolation sleeve. It must be for a GB series engine as the crank journal changed in later years. I could also use a decent timing chain cover for a series GB engine. These also changed at GH. I'll sand blast and paint, so grubby is OK. TIA for any help you can lend to my project. Bob Stahlbush 66 MGB GHN3L 78708 60 TR3A TS 81398L /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 20:20:05 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: "Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck" , Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 20:19:02 -0700 Subject: Re: Plug Gap If you have an 18V engine in a '70 then you aren't running the original engine. See what type of dizzy you have... On Sun, 09 Dec 2001 17:44:05 -0800, Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck wrote: >I had NKG and they came out Black and a light brown around the electrodes, I >replaced them with autolite nice thing about them is they are garanteed for >2 years. I whent with .25 as myne is a 1970 and that is what MGcars.co.uk >recomended. >Adam Schellinck >1970 -- Andrew Lundgren lundgren@byu.net http://www.itwest.net/~lundgren /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 20:24:55 2001 From: Bob Hamilton To: MG List Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 23:22:50 -0400 Subject: 1275 Gearbox - Jumping out of 3rd Listers, I rebuilt this gearbox last winter to repair bad first and reverse gears. These gears now work fine but it now will frequently jump out of third while accelerating so to avoid damage, I only put 20 miles on it since the rebuild. The unit is once again on the bench and I have checked to ensure all the detent balls and springs are in the correct position for the 3/4 shifting rod, which they are. My first thought is to replace the three detent springs with new ones to ensure maximum pressure on the balls. Nothing appears to be out of place. I would appreciate hearing from someone with experience in rebuilding this transmission who can perhaps suggest another reason for this happening. Regards, Bob Bob Hamilton, Waverley, NS Home of the 1973 Yellow Midget and Assorted Sunbeam-Talbots Sunbeam Web Page: http:/home.ca.inter.net/~robertach/autos.htm /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 22:15:16 2001 From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 21:12:25 -0800 Subject: Rear end oil The MGB spec book calls for 90Wt in the rear end on my 1970 MGB roadster would 85-140 be ok or should I wait till the store opens in the morning?? Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 22:41:37 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: MG List Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 23:38:02 -0600 Subject: Re: 1275 Gearbox - Jumping out of 3rd Bob Hamilton wrote: > > Listers, > > I rebuilt this gearbox last winter to repair bad first and reverse > gears. These gears now work fine but it now will frequently jump out of > third while accelerating so to avoid damage, I only put 20 miles on it > since the rebuild. > > The unit is once again on the bench and I have checked to ensure > all the detent balls and springs are in the correct position for the 3/4 > shifting rod, which they are. My first thought is to replace the three > detent springs with new ones to ensure maximum pressure on the balls. > Nothing appears to be out of place. > > I would appreciate hearing from someone with experience in > rebuilding this transmission who can perhaps suggest another reason for > this happening. Bob, this may be useless to you, but I do recall that when I raced MGA's and Minis in the 60's, accepted wisdom was to have the shifting shaft and knob be as light as possible. The problem was jumping out of gear when we had a lot of acceleration (or sideforce in a corner) and hit a bump of some sort. The MGs tended to pop out in 3rd and the Minis in 2nd or 4th under high load. We noticed that if we added some big supertrick chrome ball, the car would pop out of gear much worse than before. I liked a big handle, so I had a carpenter friend lathe me out some 1 3/4" and 2" balls out of nice light pine. Since these would have too easily split, I talked a friend at the research lab I worked at to make the teflon inserts for the holes in the balls and drill and thread them for the shift levers. At least one of them must be around here somewhere; that's not the sort of thing I sell or lose or give away. I haven't seen them in decades. As I warned, this is really very much a side issue, but there did seem to a tendency for the weight of the knob to adversely effect these pop-outs. Undoubtedly, the problem exists elsewhere, but this might help a bit. -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 10 23:39:16 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: jschelli1@shaw.ca Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 01:36:57 EST Subject: Re: Rear end oil Adam.. According to the manufacturer CALTEX Gearlube 85w-140w was(quote) developed to provide extended oil drain intervals. It is a high performance, multipurpose, thermally durable, extreme pressure, lubricant formulated with "clean gear" technology for applications where API GL-5/MT-1 performance is required. Its specifically recommended for applications where extended drain intervals of up to 200,000 km are required for hypoid differentials and final drives of trucks and other automotive equiptment operating under high speed and/or low speed, high torque conditions. (unquote) I didn't read anything about its use in Sports Cars or anything containing the phrase "recommended for use in European or British sports and touring cars." But it does have a viscosity index of 96w most gearlube has a viscosity index of 90w. So its pretty much your call, mate..I'd wait unless I heard otherwise But you can check it out for yourself at=>>http://www.ampol.com.au/prods/GearlubeExt.html< < Have fun! Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 under constr. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 00:54:55 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: "Garner, Joseph P." , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 19:40:15 -0600 Subject: Re: bloody breather gaskets "Garner, Joseph P." wrote: > so any tricks or tips? should i give up on the moss gasket and just cut > myself a new one out of a thinner material? I could then gasket-goop it in > place without risk of it slipping when it is bolted down. > > I really want to get this right, because it is a phenomenal ball ache to > take the manifold off each time (not to mention having to buy new gaskets > for the manifold and all of the intake gubbins). It has been *many* years since I overhauled a B series. The A series has a similar problem, except that the vent side-plate is exactly like the non-vent sideplate (tappet access cover); it has the ridges and all to help locate the gasket. They often still leak anyway. Here's my best advice: Use a black rubber gasket, rather than a cork one, if possible. Cork will do, but it's not the best. Use aviation-grade flexible gasket sealer; it's usually dark blue or violet and transparent. Make very certain that there is no oil or other contaminant on the sealing surfaces of the plate and block. Run the bolt into the block using only fingers. If it doesn't go in easily, either use a new bolt or wire-brush the old one and, if necessary, use a small rotary wire-brussh in the bolt hole or run the proper size well-oiled tap into the hole. This makes the whole job easier. Liberally apply the gasket-sealer on the side of the gasket that will mate to the cover plate. Do the same on the gasket area of the cover plate. Let them dry thoroughly. Mate them together carefully and let them dry. I also use pressure. Apply the gasket-sealer onto the remaining gasket side and the proper part of the engine block. Let them dry well. Stick the center bolt through a nice fat O-ring that fits tight on the bolt (don't use cork or composition gaskets here) then I add a flat steel washer to squeeze the O-ring against the cover. I liberally apply gasket sealer to these and then place this assembly on the cover with the bolt through the cover. Then I mate this assembly to the block this way: I offer up the assembly, being careful not to touch the sealing surfaces, but handling the assembly by the edges. The bolt should begin to enter the threaded hole in the block before the mating surfaces begin to touch. Holding the plate parallel to the block, I take up the slack on the bolt and turn it in until the sealing surfaces are touching (this where you will be glad you checked the bolt in the hole was turning freely, then do about one more turn on the bolt. Observe to make sure you aren't distorting the gasket or O-ring. I leave it all alone overnight to let it set and dry. Then I tighten the bolt, observing to make sure it isn't overtightened enough to harm or disturb the gasket and O-ring. I have never had a leak if I do it this way. I buy the O-rings at the parts store; I don't like the cork, composition or thin flat rubber gaskets on the bolt; they tend to fail way too often. The flexible aircraft-grade sealer is magic. It never dries hard, but it will seal like crazy and will really stick things together if used like contact cement, pre-applied, as described above. -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 04:50:45 2001 From: "Generation" To: "MG list" Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 06:50:30 -0500 Subject: Need some advice Hello gang, I am very new to the MGB world and I have a 1978 MGB. I am limitted by a problem of no garage to work on, so I have my car stored at my mechanic's yard and I have been doing work on it with him (and his guidance). My problem is determining if I am going in the right direction and if I am paying too much. Perhaps people here can comment. Here is a brief history of my car: Mechanically: Engine head cracked Needs new Clutch (including overhaul of clutch cylinder) Needs Brakes to be done including master cylinder Needs a carburator rebuild / overhaul Body wise: The rocker and sills (inside and out need to be replaced on both sides The front quarter section for the front fenders on each side need to be replaced on the driver's side in the rear, the quarter section on the driver's side needs replacement, and the area over the wheel The floor is in okay shape, one little hole only( on each side). The floor seams probably need to be reinforced. The floor is original. This floor can be repaired versus being replaced. The weak spots are where the undercoating missed. This car will never be in perfect (show room condition) shape. I just want a working car that wil look nice, be presentable, and safe. Here is what I have done: I have remove the engine and transmission. The front fenders have also been removed. All the interior stuff has been taken out (seats, etc). I cannot do any welding. My ideal situation would be to find someone ot do the metal repair and welding, and then I would be able to prepare the car for painting. I have spoken with my mechanic, and here is what he suggest (with estimate of cost): Fix the mechanicals - clutch, brakes, carburator, head, etc - parts would cost $500 Total investment in this car to date is about $2000 CDN (1200 US). Another note - when the engine was removed (head taken off first), there was a strong odor of burnt oil. Is this normal? Is it worth keeping this engine? My mechanic believes that it is okay. My main problem is where to go on this thing. Is it worth repairing? I estimate that body panels that need to preplaced will cost $1000 CDN (maximum). Then all I have to do is find someone for the metal repair (eg do the welding) Feedback would be really apprecaited as I am wondering if my mechainc is steering me along the right path. Thanks for your time. Regards, Mark Budman Toronto, Canada budman@generation.net PS - How does one set this list so you get all the messages as a digest/group instead of one at a time? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 05:19:23 2001 From: "Greg Bass" To: Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 07:14:42 -0500 Subject: RE: Need some advice Hello Mark I am not one of the techno gurus here, but you will find many who can give you all the information you need. Heck, some of them will probably come to Toronto if you offer them a few beers! . But I will suggest that you find a local club if you haven't already. Join and then pick the brains of everyone there. Most have good media librarys that you can use and they can give you the places to look for the best prices and best service. I have had a very busy couple of months and I'm just now pulling the engine/tranny on my 78 B. I plan on spending the winter months, if there are any here in Atlanta GA (it was 75 degrees Sunday :-), to do a complete the engine rebuild, body repaint, and interior restoration. So if the wife wants to talk to me before.... oh say.. next April, she can find me in the garage! LOL.... Hope you repairs go smoothly and best wishes. Greg Bass /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 06:50:04 2001 From: "Rick Lindsay" To: "Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck" , Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 07:55:09 -0600 Subject: Re: Rear end oil Uh, morning Adam. I am interested to see what replies you get to a note with an Re-line like "Rear end oil." You should see what I got in return when I posted a note to the 'E30M3' list using "Noise from my rear end" ! Good luck! > Subject: Rear end oil Rick MG-less -- for the time being /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 07:32:22 2001 From: "Michael Lupynec" To: "Generation" , "MG list" Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 09:44:02 -0500 Subject: Re: Need some advice What part of TO? I'm in the High Park area doing an A concours restoration. It would help us to know a little about the previous history incl compression numbers of your car, OTW no way of saying if its a good bet to skip an engine overhaul (a thou in parts). First get a Moss catalogue so that you can peg down panel and mech actual costs. Your mechanic cannot estimate a brake budget without first stripping all the components. If you have corrosion/pitting, a new or rebored master cylinder alone is a few hundred. Reconditioned head, rust repairs, sill replacement, prep and paint and no facilities will add up. A late B driver can be had for less than 10K CDN, so u gotta be careful. Mike L 60A,67E,59Bug ----- Original Message ----- From: Generation To: MG list Sent: December 11, 2001 6:50 AM Subject: Need some advice > Hello gang, > > I am very new to the MGB world and I have a 1978 MGB. I am limitted by a > problem of no garage to work on, so I have my car stored at my mechanic's > yard and I have been doing work on it with him (and his guidance). > > My problem is determining if I am going in the right direction and if I > am paying too much. Perhaps people here can comment. > > Here is a brief history of my car: > > Mechanically: > > Engine head cracked > Needs new Clutch (including overhaul of clutch cylinder) > Needs Brakes to be done including master cylinder > Needs a carburator rebuild / overhaul > > Body wise: > > The rocker and sills (inside and out need to be replaced on both sides > The front quarter section for the front fenders on each side need to be > replaced > on the driver's side in the rear, the quarter section on the driver's side > needs replacement, and the area over the wheel > > The floor is in okay shape, one little hole only( on each side). The floor > seams probably need to be reinforced. The floor is original. This floor can > be repaired versus being replaced. The weak spots are where the undercoating > missed. > > This car will never be in perfect (show room condition) shape. I just want a > working car that wil look nice, be presentable, and safe. > > Here is what I have done: > > I have remove the engine and transmission. The front fenders have also been > removed. All the interior stuff has been taken out (seats, etc). > > I cannot do any welding. My ideal situation would be to find someone ot do > the metal repair and welding, and then I would be able to prepare the car > for painting. > > I have spoken with my mechanic, and here is what he suggest (with estimate > of cost): > > Fix the mechanicals - clutch, brakes, carburator, head, etc - parts would > cost $500 > > Total investment in this car to date is about $2000 CDN (1200 US). > Another note - when the engine was removed (head taken off first), there was > a strong odor of burnt oil. Is this normal? Is it worth keeping this engine? > My mechanic believes that it is okay. > > My main problem is where to go on this thing. Is it worth repairing? I > estimate that body panels that need to preplaced will cost $1000 CDN > (maximum). Then all I have to do is find someone for the metal repair (eg do > the welding) > > Feedback would be really apprecaited as I am wondering if my mechainc is > steering me along the right path. > > Thanks for your time. > > Regards, > > Mark Budman > Toronto, Canada > budman@generation.net > > PS - How does one set this list so you get all the messages as a > digest/group instead of one at a time? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 09:21:07 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: budman@generation.net Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 11:16:56 -0500 Subject: RE: Need some advice Hi Mark, About your PS: In your email system you may create rules, which put most of the list emails into a selected mail folder. I hope this helps. Cheers, Hans -----Original Message----- From: Generation [mailto:budman@generation.net] Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 12:51 PM To: MG list Subject: Need some advice Hello gang, I am very new to the MGB world and I have a 1978 MGB. I am limitted by a problem of no garage to work on, so I have my car stored at my mechanic's yard and I have been doing work on it with him (and his guidance). My problem is determining if I am going in the right direction and if I am paying too much. Perhaps people here can comment. Here is a brief history of my car: Mechanically: Engine head cracked Needs new Clutch (including overhaul of clutch cylinder) Needs Brakes to be done including master cylinder Needs a carburator rebuild / overhaul Body wise: The rocker and sills (inside and out need to be replaced on both sides The front quarter section for the front fenders on each side need to be replaced on the driver's side in the rear, the quarter section on the driver's side needs replacement, and the area over the wheel The floor is in okay shape, one little hole only( on each side). The floor seams probably need to be reinforced. The floor is original. This floor can be repaired versus being replaced. The weak spots are where the undercoating missed. This car will never be in perfect (show room condition) shape. I just want a working car that wil look nice, be presentable, and safe. Here is what I have done: I have remove the engine and transmission. The front fenders have also been removed. All the interior stuff has been taken out (seats, etc). I cannot do any welding. My ideal situation would be to find someone ot do the metal repair and welding, and then I would be able to prepare the car for painting. I have spoken with my mechanic, and here is what he suggest (with estimate of cost): Fix the mechanicals - clutch, brakes, carburator, head, etc - parts would cost $500 Total investment in this car to date is about $2000 CDN (1200 US). Another note - when the engine was removed (head taken off first), there was a strong odor of burnt oil. Is this normal? Is it worth keeping this engine? My mechanic believes that it is okay. My main problem is where to go on this thing. Is it worth repairing? I estimate that body panels that need to preplaced will cost $1000 CDN (maximum). Then all I have to do is find someone for the metal repair (eg do the welding) Feedback would be really apprecaited as I am wondering if my mechainc is steering me along the right path. Thanks for your time. Regards, Mark Budman Toronto, Canada budman@generation.net PS - How does one set this list so you get all the messages as a digest/group instead of one at a time? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 09:07:51 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: dwood143@attbi.com, mgs@autox.team.net, jschelli1@shaw.ca Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 11:03:56 -0500 Subject: RE: Windscreen leaks Adam and all, While being busy at these days with the restauration, I had to refit the air intake chrome thing. I was advised to add some kind of filter (metal waved sheet metal) behind this chromed air inlet. This prevents tree leaves etc to come into this compartment and clog the water drainpipe. It can be obtained from the MG parts shop. 2 Eurocents! Cheers, Hans '71 BGT -----Original Message----- From: Dave Wood [mailto:dwood143@attbi.com] Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 6:33 PM To: mgs Subject: Re: Windscreen leaks Charlie, My 72 developed leaks when the air intake in front of the windscreen filled with leaves and junk. This prevents rain from passing through to the ground and leaks through to your leg by way of the air intake tubes. All you need to do is to crawl under the car and clear the bulb that is attached to the tube that drains the air intake vent. The hole in the vent is on the passenger side of the vent on LHD cars. For a quick fix (don't want to get under the car) you can siphon the collected water out of the air intake vent with a 3/8" or so plastic hose. I picked up a magnetic vent seal (for lack of a better term) to place over the air vent when the car sits in the rain. It prevents rain and leaves and such from collecting in the vent area. It's done a great job. Dave 72 B ----- Original Message ----- Ok here is the problem, The MGB is leaking profusely but only in one spot the water seems to run down the back of the dash and drip down on to my leg. It drips down from the place in the dash where the steering wheel comes though. Any thoughts as to where the water is leaking in from and working its way down? Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 10:54:34 2001 From: Skye Poier To: MG Nuts Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 09:53:51 -0800 Subject: Re: bloody breather gaskets Doesn't Doug Jackson or APTFast or someone sell an upgraded one-piece side cover that supposedly doesn't leak? Skye 66 B -- 1966 MGB - GHN3L Safety Fast! __,__\__ The MGB Experience www.mgbexperience.com (_o____o_) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 11:03:49 2001 From: "Tim Economu" To: Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 10:04:18 -0800 Subject: list archive PS Missing that archive, willing to make a donation if it comes to that. All of that advice and experience in priceless. >> I am too. How much would it take Mark? Kind regards, Tim Economu /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 12:54:13 2001 From: "Tim Economu" To: "MG List" Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 11:54:31 -0800 Subject: MBG/GT V8 conversion Thought you all might like to know about the car on ebay....usual disclaimers, etc... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=599049761 I would think the car needs beefed up brakes, and suspension to handle the increase in power!! Kind regards, Tim Economu MGB/GT with snappy rebuilt 1810cc 4 cylinder B series! /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 14:07:42 2001 From: "mghirsch" To: Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 15:06:50 -0600 Subject: Re Bloody breather gskets RTV stands for room temperature vulcanizing. It is a silicon rubber material. It comes in different temperature grades-usually black for low temp, blue for medium, red or copper for hightemps. It is sold under a variety of brand names. Maynard Hirsch /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 16:40:58 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'mgs@autox.team.net'" Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 15:41:01 -0800 Subject: 67 MGB For Sale California Since we got the question of cars for sale off our chests. This guy is moving and in a bind, says he will scrap the car if he can't find a buyer immediately. It sounds a bit too nice to be scrapped out, so perhaps interested parties might contact the owner. 67 MGB Started restoration, doglegs replaced, lots of new parts including floors. 34,000 miles. Originally from North Carolina so expect rust. Supposed to have 7 wheels with a set of new tires. Has title, rotted interior, rotted top. Located in Modesto CA, thats about mid-way up the eastern side of the state. The guy was asking $1000, is now down to $500 Please contact the owner: Murray McMannus (209) 602-4960 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 18:54:42 2001 From: Mgbbob@aol.com To: budman@generation.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 20:53:11 EST Subject: Re: Need some advice Hi Mark, Your car sounds like most of the B's that I've heard stories about. A little rust here and there. The floors are sound like they're in pretty good shape with the exception of a few places...that's a fairly good omen for the rest of the body. What have you gotten so far for your $2000. IMHO you should have picked up a car in that condition for aroud $700....maybe $900 if it was complete and had a decent interior. That notwithstanding, you should tear down the engine. If you do, you'll most likely uncover the source of the burnt oil smell. You're halfway there with the engine out of the car anyway. The clutch is small potatoes...have a good look at the pistons and the crank to see that there aren't any MAJOR problems. Have the bores "miked" and measure the crank....you won't regret it. This might be a good opportunity to read the Bentley manual and learn a little about your LBC. You'll pay a fortune if you have "professionals" do ALL the work. I didn't know the first thing about welding until Santa brought me a welder and a welding manual a few years back. I'll never be a "professional", but I'll have the satisfaction of knowing I did my TR3A all myself....you can too. It's not uncommon for us LBCers to spend more on a restoration than the car is worth...I see it all the time. The question to ask is:"what is this car worth TO ME"? Take your time and spend as little as possible to get that "quality" job done. Join a club; ask this list and stay hungry for knowledge about your car. Most MGB's in fair to good shape are running around $3000-$5000...if you think you'll be into it for around that when you're done, GO FOR IT. FWIW Bob Stahlbush 66 MGB GHN3L 78708 (soon to be overdrive) 60 TR3A TS81398L (almost there...next summer) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 20:53:31 2001 From: "NSippel" To: "MG Digest" , Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 22:51:06 -0500 Subject: Re: X mas shopping in a Bugeye Had a similar experience last Friday. Driving my MGB on Rt. 1 (Post Rd.) in Westport, CT, top down, light sweater over cotton shirt, sun warming my face when suddenly - the radio starts playing a Christmas carol. What's wrong with this picture??????? Did I fall asleep & am I in Florida already? Well, I'll be there soon enough to enjoy the beach (not the Gulf water thank you. I little too much like the Atlantic off Cape Cod in August.) & the heated pool. But, this is the latest I have ever put the "winter" hardtop on my B. It usually goes on over Thanksgiving weekend. Even today, it was sunny & warm enough that if I had the time & the h.t. was still in the basement, I would have been driving topless. Topless car that is. Norm Sippel, Warm in CT '66 MGB '59 Turner /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 21:36:26 2001 From: Paul Tegler To: , Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 23:39:12 -0500 Subject: amplifier GM elec dist Someone was asking / talking to me about the guts of the cei box for the distributor. If you are still of in need of one, cheap..... let me know before tomorrow at about 3 pm est I have access to one cheap! Paul Tegler ptegler@cablespeed.com www.teglerizer.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 11 21:48:37 2001 From: Phil To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 21:47:43 -0700 Subject: control loops Does anyone know exactly how the regulator in a 1967 and earlier MGB works?? I have a voltmeter and an ammeter installed in my car (I did that myself about 6 years ago), and have been experiencing some odd readings. And this is with a new generator and new Lucas regulator. As far as I can remember, from my Chemical Engineering Process Controls training of some 10 years back, it looks like the regulator has a hard time setting the gains it needs. The climate here is very cold (I am in High Plains desert Idaho - lows about 10F, and highs about 20-250F lately), and there are a lot of hours of dark (i.e. the car basically has the lights on any time it is running). Here is what my system does: When I leave work, I keep the low idle of the choke up above 1200 rpm, so I can always be generating. No problem for about 5 minutes. When I hit the freeway (speed limit 75mph), my car has warmed up, but the ammeter is reading negative. The voltmeter gets down to about 11 volts, and the lights are dim. I keep the heater off for the time being. After about 10 minutes on the freeway, the regulator starts cycling in a high amperage mode. This makes the lights go bright for a couple seconds, and then dim for about 10 seconds. This continues for about 5 minutes. And gets the battery up to about 13 volts. Somewhere, the system settles down, and has a net positive all the time. I can even run lights, heater, and wipers and keep 14 volts (which I understand is the specified high voltage level the system is supposed to produce). When I get home (it is a 30 min drive), all is fine, at 14 volts, and I turn the lights off, make sure the charge is up, and shut down. Not during any of this do I see the red light come on indicating a charging system failure - and I know the light and circuit work, because it does come on when it is supposed to on other occasions (for example not running with the key on). I suspect another new regulator would take care of it, or I could replace the whole system with an alternator (although they put out more amperage than my +/- ammeter can measure), but I'm really just curious about why the system does this. It does it every day. Phil Bates '67 MGB - tempory winter car. '58 MGA - lousy winter car - bad window sealing misc. other cars, one of which I wish would be my winter car and not cost so much to keep in good repair. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 12 02:55:32 2001 From: "Garner, Joseph P." To: "MG list (E-mail)" Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 01:56:32 -0800 Subject: smog advice hi everyone, just got the 79 'b pre-smog checked today, and it scored too high on CO at 25mph (but was okay at 15mph). This bemuses me because i thought i had it set pretty lean (any leaner and it backfires occasionally). Hydrocarbon emissions were very low, oxygen levels were very low (0.0 at 25mph) and so were NO emissions. Anyone have any experience with this kind of thing? My current reasoning is that if the HC levels and O2 levels are both very low, then there is almost complete combustion of the fuel going on, the high CO levels would seem to indicate that with a little more oxygen, the CO would be burnt to carbon dioxide. It seems that if the air pump or check valve are misbehaving then not enough oxygen would be pumped into the exhaust manifold to burn off the remaining CO, so i'm going to check this tomorrow. The only other culprit is the carb. like i said, both the colourtune and the engine's behaviour would seem to indicate that the mixture is set pretty much right. I can see two other possibilities. Firstly there's the funny little 'CO adjustment screw' on the side of the carb near the petrol intake. it's also called the idle mixture adjustment screw in the shop manual. would this affect the engine at higher revs and under load? alternatively, would the choke adjusting screw (aka fast idle screw) have any effect if the choke is off? any advice very much appreciated cheers Joe for the technically minded here's the readout: Speed RPM %co2 %02 HC(ppm) %co NO(ppm) 15 2021 14.3 0.2 4 1.14 115 25 2104 14.2 0.0 3 1.67 128 _________________ Dr. Joseph Garner Department of Animal Science, University of California, One Shields Avenue, Davis, CA 95616 USA tel: + 530 754 5291 fax: + 530 752 0175 _________________ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 12 03:07:12 2001 From: =?ISO-8859-8?Q?=EE=F8=E8=E9=EF_=F8=E5=E2=E5=E1=E9=EF?= To: "Mg mailing list (E-mail)" Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 12:10:43 +0200 Subject: RE: X mas shopping in a Bugeye Funny, I'm still driving in a t-shirt & jeans. Today in Tel Aviv - 82 F, blue sky, bright sun. Of course, there aren't too many Christmas carols on the radio here. ;-) (and even if there were, my B just has a blanking plate where the radio goes . . . I just prefer that vroom-vroom sound). RMartin 70 roadster Tel Aviv. > Had a similar experience last Friday. Driving my MGB on Rt. > 1 (Post Rd.) in > Westport, CT, top down, light sweater over cotton shirt, sun > warming my face > when suddenly - the radio starts playing a Christmas carol. > What's wrong > with this picture??????? Did I fall asleep & am I in Florida already? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 12 07:41:02 2001 From: Maffei Andrew P SSgt 27 LG/LGQPT To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 07:38:49 -0700 Subject: RE: X mas shopping in a Bugeye It funny we should be talking about driving our car in the beautiful weather, here in eastern New Mexico I had the B out this weekend ,top down and it was just a gorgeous day, not a cloud in the sky. the weather said it was in the mid 60's but it felt more like the mid 80's and I really didn't think about it until that night When the kids were helping me put up the tree that it is December!?! Andy 66B /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 12 07:53:40 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 01:23:05 +1030 Subject: Re: Heatwave!? (was ) Maffei Andrew P SSgt 27 LG/LGQPT wrote: > > It funny we should be talking about driving our car in the beautiful > weather, here in eastern New Mexico I had the B out this weekend ,top down > and it was just a gorgeous day, not a cloud in the sky. the weather said it > was in the mid 60's but it felt more like the mid 80's and I really didn't > think about it until that night When the kids were helping me put up the > tree that it is December!?! OK, hand it over! You have our Summer and we want it NOW! Although pleasant, we are currently experiencing one of our coldest November/December periods on record when it is meant to be SUMMER here in Australia. Everyone is talking about it and the latest news story claimed that we are running at 5C (about 10F) degrees below average for this time of year. So, put your winter woolies on and get out your snow shovel - and give us our warm weather! We should be heading down the beach right now! -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia "Hello. My name is Inigo Montoya. You killed my father. Prepare to die." /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 12 09:39:08 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: "Garner, Joseph P." Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 09:46:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: smog advice You don't mention your other prep work, but another thing that has alays helped all of my cars to lower everything has been fresh oil. If you didn't change it right before your test, it might pull you down enough. How low do you have to go? Other advice I have heard from the guys doing the tests, if your car didn't have platium plugs from the dealer, don't put them on during a test. Another quote from one tester: "I have NEVER seen a car with a new (replaced) cat fail." (I had to have one installed on a car that had previously had it removed, they caught it when it failed the test the second time, after having passed for 4 or 5 years. Cost me about $150 installed and it passed from then on.) On Wed, 12 Dec 2001, Garner, Joseph P. wrote: > hi everyone, > > just got the 79 'b pre-smog checked today, and it scored too high on CO at > 25mph (but was okay at 15mph). This bemuses me because i thought i had it > set pretty lean (any leaner and it backfires occasionally). Hydrocarbon > emissions were very low, oxygen levels were very low (0.0 at 25mph) and so > were NO emissions. Anyone have any experience with this kind of thing? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 12 10:04:20 2001 From: To: "Phil" , Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 16:57:54 -0000 Subject: Re: control loops It does sound like the regulator is at fault, specifically the cut-out relay. This is supposed to operate when the generator is producing about 13v, its contacts close and connect generator output to the battery and you should see charging on your ammeter. If you manually operate the cut-out relay (it is the one with the 'make' contact, the other two have 'break' contacts) with the ignition off and the engine stopped you should see a discharge on the ammeter and the generator should try to turn, but the fan-belt and the load of the engine will stop it moving very much! If it does this it implies the contact and its wiring is OK. Connect a voltmeter to the D terminal of the generator or regulator (brown/yellow), start up the engine and watch the voltmeter and the cut-out relay as you slowly increase the revs. The cut-out relay should operate at between 12.7v and 13.3v and show a small charge, or at least less discharge, on the ammeter. Further increase in revs should raise the voltage to about 15v and show a normal charge on the ammeter. At about 15v the voltage regulator (at the other end from the cut-out) operates, its break contact introduces a resistance into the field of the generator, which reduces the output voltage. The relay contact actually opens and closes very rapidly, you should feel a 'buzzing' if you touch the armature. The middle relay is the current regulator. If the load (i.e. output current) is too high this relay operates in a similar manner to the voltage regulator, but keeping the current through the generator to a safe level, but the voltage will probably be less than the 'normal' charging voltage of about 15v. However if your system is charging correctly for the first five minutes until you hit the freeway - and presumably higher speeds - then possibly the commutator and/or brushes are worn and bouncing at higher speeds. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: Phil To: Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 4:47 AM Subject: control loops > Does anyone know exactly how the regulator in a 1967 and earlier MGB > works?? > When I leave work, I keep the low idle of the choke up above 1200 rpm, > so I can always be generating. No problem for about 5 minutes. > When I hit the freeway (speed limit 75mph), my car has warmed up, but > the ammeter is reading negative. The voltmeter gets down to about 11 > volts, and the lights are dim. I keep the heater off for the time > being. > After about 10 minutes on the freeway, the regulator starts cycling in a > high amperage mode. This makes the lights go bright for a couple > seconds, and then dim for about 10 seconds. This continues for about 5 > minutes. And gets the battery up to about 13 volts. > Somewhere, the system settles down, and has a net positive all the > time. I can even run lights, heater, and wipers and keep 14 volts > (which I understand is the specified high voltage level the system is > supposed to produce). /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 12 16:54:55 2001 From: Carl Elliott To: MGs List Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 18:56:51 -0500 Subject: test no mail in several days yet plenty on midget list, Whats up Carl E. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 12 16:54:30 2001 From: "mghirsch" To: Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 17:53:39 -0600 Subject: Re: control loops You may also want to check all the connections in the generator itself. I forgot which wire it is, but when it is loose, it causes strange things to happen, like blowing the indicator lamp. Maynard Hirsch /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 12 17:11:08 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'mgs@autox.team.net'" Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 16:11:19 -0800 Subject: FW: test + 79 MGB project Maybe, we spend more time working on ours than talking about them? : ) 79 MGB so far this month. Installed: Most of the new carpets. 68-74 pedal box and master cylinders. 13 row oil cooler. Radiator and cooling fan. Twin HS4 carbs and Paeco header. Halogen headlights. Almost done repairing and re-wrapping engine bay wiring harness. Tonight: Repaint the coolant tank, windscreen bottle carrier, heater box. Install distributor and oil filter assembly. Any questions, fire away. I'll have forgotten how I did it by next week. Kelvin. Ventura, CA > -----Original Message----- > From: Carl Elliott [mailto:celliott133@home.com] > Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 3:57 PM > To: MGs List > Subject: test > > > no mail in several days yet plenty on midget list, Whats up Carl E. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 12 17:39:40 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: doddk@mossmotors.com Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 19:38:50 EST Subject: Re: FW: test + 79 MGB project Kelvin, So you're working on your 1979 MGB. Is this the "Honeymoon car"? Anyway you said you put new twin HS4 carbs and Paeco headers, hows that effect the placement of the catalytic converter? Or is that something that you'd rather not discuss? Hey, I'm just asking..Caio, Baby! You Frag me! Albert Escalante, Happy Holidaze! /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 12 17:50:40 2001 From: "Garner, Joseph P." To: "'Andrew B. Lundgren'" , Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 16:51:09 -0800 Subject: RE: smog advice ta. in the end i worked through the system, everything was okay, so i just tuned the carb ridiculously lean. once that was done the 79b was out performing the average califonian car quite spectacularly on emissions. But anyway, on my little smog info plate attached to the inside of my engine bay, it says that C0 at idle should be 3.5%. Now i thought that a car had to pass the emission standards for when it was made, not for now, so how come they made me tune the carb down to under 1.4%? i like older engines like wot i learnt on, none of this new fangled gubbins! ;-) cheers Joe __________________________ Dr. Joseph Garner, University of California, Department of Animal Science, One Shields Avenue, Davis, CA 95616 USA Phone: (530) 752 1253 Fax: (530) 752 0175 > -----Original Message----- > From: Andrew B. Lundgren [mailto:lundgren@byu.net] > Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 8:46 AM > To: Garner, Joseph P. > Cc: MG list (E-mail) > Subject: Re: smog advice > > > You don't mention your other prep work, but another thing > that has alays helped > all of my cars to lower everything has been fresh oil. If > you didn't change it right before your test, it might pull > you down enough. How low do you have to go? > > Other advice I have heard from the guys doing the tests, if > your car didn't have platium plugs from the dealer, don't put > them on during a test. > > Another quote from one tester: "I have NEVER seen a car with > a new (replaced) cat fail." > (I had to have one installed on a car that had previously had > it removed, they caught it when it failed the test the second > time, after having passed for 4 or 5 years. Cost me about > $150 installed and it passed from then on.) > > > On Wed, 12 Dec 2001, Garner, Joseph P. wrote: > > > hi everyone, > > > > just got the 79 'b pre-smog checked today, and it scored > too high on CO at > > 25mph (but was okay at 15mph). This bemuses me because i > thought i had it > > set pretty lean (any leaner and it backfires occasionally). > Hydrocarbon > > emissions were very low, oxygen levels were very low (0.0 > at 25mph) and so > > were NO emissions. Anyone have any experience with this > kind of thing? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 12 18:13:31 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'Aeseeyou@aol.com'" Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 17:13:11 -0800 Subject: RE: FW: test + 79 MGB project Albert: Officially this is a reshelling of my 65 daily driver which got smushed. At least that is what the paperwork and Highway Patrol say. The catalytic converter got recycled along with the a lot of other modern high tech advances such as rubber bumpers, wire mesh grille, ZS carb, log manifold, air pump, gulp valve, air rail, twin electric cooling fans, rubber steering wheel, power brakes, fuel pump shutoff, brake idiot light, 6 volt coil, CEI dist. etc. This is the car my lady located up in the Santa Cruz area. I'm thinking of naming it the Hantavirus Special after the pounds of rat poop that had to be cleared out of it. There is still evidence of this, now hermetically sealed under layers of POR15 and topcoat. It's a fitting car to receive my "JUNKMG" licence plates. Kelvin. > -----Original Message----- > From: Aeseeyou@aol.com [mailto:Aeseeyou@aol.com] > Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 4:39 PM > To: doddk@mossmotors.com > Cc: mgs@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: FW: test + 79 MGB project > > > Kelvin, > So you're working on your 1979 MGB. Is this the "Honeymoon > car"? Anyway you > said you put new twin HS4 carbs and Paeco headers, hows that > effect the > placement of the catalytic converter? Or is that something > that you'd rather > not discuss? Hey, I'm just asking..Caio, Baby! You Frag me! > Albert Escalante, > Happy Holidaze! /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 12 18:37:31 2001 From: "Garner, Joseph P." To: "MG list (E-mail)" Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 17:37:36 -0800 Subject: breather hi guys, just like to say thank you to everyone who sent advice on the breather plat gasket issue. the consesnsus was yes, the gaskets are a bitch, the rubber ones make it worse, to go for cork or thin rubber gaskets instead, and to glue the gaskets in place with gasket sealant before you try putting the engine back together. on saturday we shall see.... cheers Joe __________________________ Dr. Joseph Garner, University of California, Department of Animal Science, One Shields Avenue, Davis, CA 95616 USA Phone: (530) 752 1253 Fax: (530) 752 0175 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 05:41:50 2001 From: frank krajewski To: MG List Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 07:46:24 -0500 Subject: test test when i send a message to the list as cc it never appears /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 06:54:04 2001 From: "Graziano, Michael" To: "'spitfires@autox.team.net'" , Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 13:50:48 -0000 Subject: Free '70 Spit is gone..... All, The '70 Spit has been spoken for. I'm glad that it's going to a good home. We always need to endeavour to keep them from the junkyards. Cheers, and Happy Holidays. Mike Michael Graziano Credit Suisse First Boston international Assistant Vice President Equity Derivatives Product Control 212-325-8646 Phone 212-325-8100 Fax This message is for the named person's use only. It may contain sensitive and private proprietary or legally privileged information. No confidentiality or privilege is waived or lost by any mistransmission. If you are not the intended recipient, please immediately delete it and all copies of it from your system, destroy any hard copies of it and notify the sender. You must not, directly or indirectly, use, disclose, distribute, print, or copy any part of this message if you are not the intended recipient. CREDIT SUISSE GROUP and each legal entity in the CREDIT SUISSE FIRST BOSTON or CREDIT SUISSE ASSET MANAGEMENT business units of CREDIT SUISSE FIRST BOSTON reserve the right to monitor all e-mail communications through its networks. Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender, except where the message states otherwise and the sender is authorized to state them to be the views of any such entity. Unless otherwise stated, any pricing information given in this message is indicative only, is subject to change and does not constitute an offer to deal at any price quoted. Any reference to the terms of executed transactions should be treated as preliminary only and subject to our formal written confirmation. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 11:10:45 2001 From: Phil Cleobury To: MG car club Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 10:09:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: Steering rack and rear axle oil Guys What oil sould I put in the steering rack and rear axle? Tha stuff in the Haynes manual does not appear to be avalible in the US! Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 11:21:29 2001 From: Skye Poier To: MG Nuts Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 10:20:25 -0800 Subject: Re: Steering rack and rear axle oil Word on the street is that Phil Cleobury said: > Guys > What oil sould I put in the steering rack and rear > axle? > Tha stuff in the Haynes manual does not appear to be > avalible in the US! > Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of > your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com > or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com Rack: SAE 90 Axle: SAE 90EP (aka "90W Hypoy"?) Skye -- "Natural Gas. It sure gives you some ideas!" - Space Ghost [ www.ffwd.cx ] ffwd internet division /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 14:39:34 2001 From: Zach Dorsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 13:38:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: Thread Size What is the thread size of the front fender/wing bolts? Is it 5/16 fine thread? Thanks Zach '73 MGB Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 15:01:00 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'Zach Dorsch'" Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 14:01:07 -0800 Subject: RE: Thread Size Original fenders are 5/16 fine and 1/4 fine. I believe British Heritage and some other repros are metric. Kelvin. > -----Original Message----- > From: Zach Dorsch [mailto:herr_dorsch@yahoo.com] > Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 1:39 PM > To: mgs@autox.team.net > Subject: Thread Size > > > What is the thread size of the front fender/wing > bolts? Is it 5/16 fine thread? > > Thanks > > Zach > '73 MGB /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 16:35:37 2001 From: "Kai M. Radicke" To: "MG List" Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 18:52:36 -0500 Subject: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB Now being the owner of a 2002 VW Jetta 1.8T I can say I one thing. I LOVE IT! How about stuffing one of these lovely 20valve motors into an MGB, putting in one of those aftermarket ECUs and you'll have 250hp and 275lb/ft out of 1.8L in a nice little MGB. It seems that the late-model scrap yards are charging around $1500-$2000 for 1.8T motors... not a bad alternative if you're thinking about doing a Rover V8 rebuild. And I can also say that the Tiptronic gearbox is not a gimmick, it is quite nice actually; no need to worry about over revving or downshifting when coming to a stop. Then again, it is still a little slower than a manual gearbox... but with 100hp/liter of power you don't notice it. (the 2002 Jettas got 180hp up from 150hp in the 2001s for the 1.8T models). Now of course, don't cut up a perfectly happy original B to do this... there are plenty of B's that have been missing their drivetrains for many years now and those are more than suitable for conversions, without feeling guilty about originality (or lack of). Anyone willing to divert from the beaten path of typical Rover V8 conversions? If I hadn't just spent my life savings (and a little extra from mom) on the Jetta, I'd consider doing it myself... but then again college kid schedule prohibits one from having time consuming hobbies. We'll see how fast the car fund can recuperate, and perhaps I can somehow get such a engine swap passed as a Senior Design Project as a mechanical engineering student. Afterall, I've seen a few other SDP's, which weren't quite as challenging, get approval. Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 16:51:27 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'Kai M. Radicke'" , MG List Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 15:51:28 -0800 Subject: RE: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB Kai: When my Dodge Ram 2500 body falls to dust around it's Cummins Turbo Diesel engine, I'm going to look at fitting it into the MGB GT bodyshell sitting in the side yard. 300 HP, 500 ft/lbs of torque. Seating will be a bit tough, but imagine the looks at the truck stop when it pulls up for fuel. : ) KD > Now being the owner of a 2002 VW Jetta 1.8T I can say I one > thing. I LOVE > IT! How about stuffing one of these lovely 20valve motors > into an MGB, > putting in one of those aftermarket ECUs and you'll have > 250hp and 275lb/ft > out of 1.8L in a nice little MGB. It seems that the > late-model scrap yards > are charging around $1500-$2000 for 1.8T motors... not a bad > alternative if > you're thinking about doing a Rover V8 rebuild. > > And I can also say that the Tiptronic gearbox is not a > gimmick, it is quite > nice actually; no need to worry about over revving or > downshifting when > coming to a stop. Then again, it is still a little slower > than a manual > gearbox... but with 100hp/liter of power you don't notice it. > (the 2002 > Jettas got 180hp up from 150hp in the 2001s for the 1.8T models). > > Now of course, don't cut up a perfectly happy original B to > do this... there > are plenty of B's that have been missing their drivetrains > for many years > now and those are more than suitable for conversions, without > feeling guilty > about originality (or lack of). > > Anyone willing to divert from the beaten path of typical Rover V8 > conversions? If I hadn't just spent my life savings (and a > little extra > from mom) on the Jetta, I'd consider doing it myself... but then again > college kid schedule prohibits one from having time consuming hobbies. > > We'll see how fast the car fund can recuperate, and perhaps I > can somehow > get such a engine swap passed as a Senior Design Project as a > mechanical > engineering student. Afterall, I've seen a few other SDP's, > which weren't > quite as challenging, get approval. > > Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 17:23:15 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: kmr@pil.net Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 19:22:03 EST Subject: Re: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB (What did you say, Kai?) Kai, Hey wait a minute weren't you the one that came unglued or unscrewed as it were when I mentioned a friends hobby of putting 2.6 litre V-6's with S-10 5 speeds into MGB's. Something about the sacrosanct intrinsicality of the original MGB design being violated by putting a non-MGB engine into the car.Now you're going Do it! Do it! Hah! Even the blind shall see, and the lame will buy Miatas! I knew an intellegent man like yourself would come around. Still I'm keeping my 1978 MGB as stock as the day it rolled out of the factory. All 95 bhp of brutal power! Albert Escalante /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 17:32:47 2001 From: "Kai M. Radicke" To: Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 19:49:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB (What did you say, Kai?) > Hey wait a minute weren't you the one that came unglued or > unscrewed as it were when I mentioned a friends hobby of putting > 2.6 litre V-6's with S-10 5 speeds into MGB's. Something about the > sacrosanct intrinsicality of the original MGB design being violated by > putting a non-MGB engine into the car.Now you're going Do it! Do it! > Hah! Even the blind shall see, and the lame will buy Miatas! I knew > an intellegent man like yourself would come around. Still I'm keeping > my 1978 MGB as stock as the day it rolled out of the factory. All 95 > bhp of brutal power! Albert Escalante No that wasn't me. I may fly off the handle over some topics (usually about kids owning LBCs), but not about engine conversions... I admit to cringing when I know someone has taken a perfectly good B motor out of a car to do an engine conversion, but it's still person's business. I fully advocate using drivetrain-less shells for whatever conversion you wish to do... as you still end up preserving a car. And if you think your _stock_ 1978 MGB has 95bhp of power, then that British Leyland salesman really pulled a number on you. Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 17:45:21 2001 From: dave houser To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 19:43:59 -0800 Subject: MG info Good folks, Thought I'd share this search engine with you if you haven't found it already. Try going to google.com and then typing in mg,mga, mgb as I did and you'll be amazed at the thousands of links it comes up with. Found some I didn't have. Even Barney's there! No ties, etc. cheers, Dave Houser /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 18:04:24 2001 From: "M. Edwin Vaughan" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 18:56:38 -0600 Subject: Re :Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB >And I can also say that the Tiptronic gearbox is not a gimmick, it is quite >nice actually; no need to worry about over revving or downshifting when >coming to a stop. Awww, but that's where all the fun is! Edwin '77 B "I'm tryin' to think but nuthin' happens." -- Curly Howard (the stooge) Check out The MG Filling Station at: http://members.fortunecity.com/mowogmg /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 18:17:37 2001 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 17:16:36 -0800 Subject: Ooh! the insult! Just received a letter from the Bay Area Air Quality Management District noting that since the registration on my 66 B is expiring soon, I might want to turn it in to be crushed for a $500 bounty. Ouch, that hurts to think about it... At least they had the grace to add "...if your vehicle is a classic car or otherwise valuable to you, please disregard this notice." I wonder if owners of Packards and Duesenbergs get similar letters? -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 18:17:30 2001 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 17:16:36 -0800 Subject: Re: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB Umm, how would you adapt that FWD transaxle to a RWD car? It seems to me that this is the major stumbling block to most potential late-model-engine conversions -- most modern small displacement motors are used in FWD applications exclusively. And there doesn't seem to be any point to using an engine from a rear-wheel-drive roadster such as a Miata -- your finished product would be inferior to the Miata you started with. Is there any front-engine/RWD vehicle that uses the Tiptronic? I can't think of one, but I'm not really a follower of VW or Audi. on 12/13/01 3:52 PM, Kai M. Radicke at kmr@pil.net wrote: > Now being the owner of a 2002 VW Jetta 1.8T I can say I one thing. I LOVE > IT! How about stuffing one of these lovely 20valve motors into an MGB, > putting in one of those aftermarket ECUs and you'll have 250hp and 275lb/ft > out of 1.8L in a nice little MGB. It seems that the late-model scrap yards > are charging around $1500-$2000 for 1.8T motors... not a bad alternative if > you're thinking about doing a Rover V8 rebuild. > > And I can also say that the Tiptronic gearbox is not a gimmick, it is quite > nice actually; no need to worry about over revving or downshifting when > coming to a stop. Then again, it is still a little slower than a manual > gearbox... but with 100hp/liter of power you don't notice it. (the 2002 > Jettas got 180hp up from 150hp in the 2001s for the 1.8T models). > > Now of course, don't cut up a perfectly happy original B to do this... there > are plenty of B's that have been missing their drivetrains for many years > now and those are more than suitable for conversions, without feeling guilty > about originality (or lack of). > > Anyone willing to divert from the beaten path of typical Rover V8 > conversions? If I hadn't just spent my life savings (and a little extra > from mom) on the Jetta, I'd consider doing it myself... but then again > college kid schedule prohibits one from having time consuming hobbies. > > We'll see how fast the car fund can recuperate, and perhaps I can somehow > get such a engine swap passed as a Senior Design Project as a mechanical > engineering student. Afterall, I've seen a few other SDP's, which weren't > quite as challenging, get approval. > > Kai > -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 18:29:42 2001 From: Barney Gaylord To: dave houser , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 19:22:23 -0600 Subject: Re: MG info x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" At 07:43 PM 12/13/01 -0800, dave houser wrote: >.... >Try going to google.com and then typing in mg,mga, mgb as I did and >you'll be amazed at the thousands of links it comes up with. Found some I >didn't have. Even Barney's there! That was an accident. When you're looking for all of the above (mg,mga,mgb) you should not necessarily find any of my MGA web pages. Just that I accidentally dropped one "MGB" on my otherwise "MGA Specific" links page. I'm pretty easy to find otherwise though. Just type my name into any search engine and hang on! Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 18:38:29 2001 From: "Kai M. Radicke" To: "Max Heim" , "MG List" Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 20:55:33 -0500 Subject: Re: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB > Umm, how would you adapt that FWD transaxle to a RWD car Darn it Max, excellent point! Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 20:02:33 2001 From: AOH9999@aol.com To: kmr@pil.net, mvheim@attbi.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 22:01:44 EST Subject: Re: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB (What did you say, Kai?) (I may fly off the handle over some topics (usually about kids owning LBCs) As one of those "kids" who drives around in a LBC (my fathers MG becomes mine whenever I am home from college) I would like to know what you find wrong with us whippersnappers driving LBCs. I thought you would be happy that us youth would even take an interest in a classic such as an MG, instead of turning to rice-burners. If I were older, I would find it comforting that a whole new generation is finding joy in a car that I love. The tradition of LBCs will live on. Or would you rather not have any kids not take any interest in LBCs, and instead find the cars in the junkyards? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 20:10:17 2001 From: "Kai M. Radicke" To: , "MG List" Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 22:27:37 -0500 Subject: Rehashing old topics... (was Re: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB) > As one of those "kids" who drives around in a LBC (my fathers MG > becomes mine whenever I am home from college) I would like to know > what you find wrong with us whippersnappers driving LBCs. I thought > you would be happy that us youth would even take an interest in a > classic such as an MG, instead of turning to rice-burners. If I were > older, I would find it comforting that a whole new generation is finding > joy in a car that I love. The tradition of LBCs will live on. Or would you > rather not have any kids not take any interest in LBCs, and instead > find the cars in the junkyards? I am not going to start that thread again... Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 20:34:06 2001 From: "James H. Nazarian, Ph.D." To: Max Heim Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 21:27:16 -0500 Subject: Re: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB Max Heim wrote: > Is there any front-engine/RWD vehicle that uses the Tiptronic? I can't think > of one, but I'm not really a follower of VW or Audi. Maybe not VW or Audi, but how about BMW and Mercedes? Jim microdoc@zoominternet.net 2000 Audi A4 Quattro Avant Very Silver 1960 MGA 1600 Very Red 1974 MGB-GT Damask (Very Burgundy) Red /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 20:39:34 2001 From: "Phil Vanner" To: "MGs" Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 21:38:21 -0600 Subject: RE: Rehashing old topics... (was Re: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB) Oh, but he walked right into it. I'm pretty sure Kai joined this list before he was old enough to have a driver's license. Phil Vanner Officially no longer a kid -----Original Message----- From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Kai M. Radicke Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 9:28 PM To: AOH9999@aol.com; MG List Subject: Rehashing old topics... (was Re: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB) > As one of those "kids" who drives around in a LBC (my fathers MG > becomes mine whenever I am home from college) I would like to know > what you find wrong with us whippersnappers driving LBCs. I thought > you would be happy that us youth would even take an interest in a > classic such as an MG, instead of turning to rice-burners. If I were > older, I would find it comforting that a whole new generation is finding > joy in a car that I love. The tradition of LBCs will live on. Or would you > rather not have any kids not take any interest in LBCs, and instead > find the cars in the junkyards? I am not going to start that thread again... Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 20:50:23 2001 From: Dan Hackney To: "'Kai M. Radicke'" , "'MG List'" Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 22:46:52 -0500 Subject: RE: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB..... Kai and others, > one of these lovely 20valve motors I agree about the engine. My mother had a 1.8T Audi a4 with tiptronic and that engine was a hoot. > (the 2002 Jettas got 180hp up from 150hp in the 2001s for the 1.8T >models). In the A4 had 150 hp for '00, '01 model jumps to 170 (lumpier cam). I find it strange that VW would put the more powerful tune in the "people's car" and still make the brand new a4 with the 170 hp carryover engine. BUT, carpoint.com confirms this fact. OT, but interesting... > college kid schedule prohibits one from having time consuming hobbies. > Ditto! I miss my (father's) mg. Restoration resumes this month during semester break. Hopefully I'll have it running before I come back here. > as a Senior Design Project as a mechanical > engineering student. Now that would be a fun project! I wish I could do that instead of whatever they'll have me doing in 4th year CS degree... Regarding the transaxle difficulties, would it be possible to somehow use part of a Quattro drivetrain to send power to the rear wheels? I don't know the details of the setup, just wondering out loud... Cheers to you AOH9999, but agreed Kai, let's not start that thread again. -Dan H. '72 b (in restoration, almost done, far away) '88 XJ6 (not a good college car) UVA Engineering c/o '05 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 20:58:45 2001 From: "Kai M. Radicke" To: "James H. Nazarian, Ph.D." , Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 23:15:51 -0500 Subject: Re: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB > Maybe not VW or Audi, but how about BMW and Mercedes? > > Jim Jim, that got me thinking. Joe Curry on the Spitfire list mounted a Honda VTEC engine in his autocross Spitfire... first outing wasn't successful though, engine malfunction light came while he was waiting in the queue. He used a motor from an S2000, presumably because of the performance levels and the 6spd gearbox. Using an S2000 motor one would get about 120hp/liter... Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 22:06:33 2001 From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 21:01:19 -0800 Subject: Re: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB (s2000 Reply) Ahhh you guys beat me to it, I am employed here in Courteany as a salesmen for Island Motor Prouducts, whom is the North Island dealer for Honda motor cars. As such I have acess to much surplus stock and 1st shot at vehicals wrecked, to make a long story short I have the running gear from a 2000 Honda S2000 Roadster. Yes I am making a MGB that will have 240Hp and 153lb. of torque. It should be a very easy converson. Having driven the S2000 on a road course I am looking forward to the classic lines of the B with running gear that will go over 100km/h (60mph I think) in reverse. It wont sound like a british car but the engine screaming up to 9000 RPM shure sounds good. Oh and on a side note kai and I are the same age and both have been on this list long before we could drive, I got my 1st. B when I was 14. (20 now) Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 22:23:02 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: barneymg@ntsource.com Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 00:21:30 EST Subject: Re: MG info x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" & more... On 12/13/01 At approx 5:30:51 PM Pacific Standard Time barneymg@ntsource.com sez:>>I'm pretty easy to find otherwise though. Just type my name into any search engine and hang on! Which I did... Barney, Or I guess I'll have to say Mr. Gaylord, having just punched in your moniker using my standard AOL.COM search engine and >>Bingo<< up came the results! There are from 1 to 4220 entries for anyone to peruse at their leisure. Gosh, thats more entries than some peoples gots hairs on their haid, by yimminy! You are definately a man with a plan! and a purty nice MGA, you betchum! Albert Escalante /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 13 22:53:53 2001 From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 21:48:22 -0800 Subject: Running Rough (the saga continues) Fixed the problem for a couple of days then it came back with avengance. As you may recall I replaced the plugs and all was well for a few days then today it started to run rough again, I had my carbs tuned again, that didnt help it returned in a few days, my observation tonight it that plugs no 2&3 are black and fouled, I am thinking that it is a leak in the gasket between these cylenders am I correct in that assumption?? I dont want to remove the carbs unless I have to. Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 00:14:02 2001 From: Barney Gaylord To: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck , Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 01:13:57 -0600 Subject: Re: Running Rough (the saga continues) At 09:48 PM 12/13/01 -0800, Adam Schellinck wrote: >Fixed the problem for a couple of days then it came back with a vengance. >.... plugs no 2&3 are black and fouled, I am thinking that it is a leak in >the gasket between these cylenders am I correct in that assumption?? .... Yup, a pretty good guess. First thing is to do a compression check on all four cylinders. If they don't match within 10%, or if any of then is less than about 110 psi, then you have some internal problems there. If #2 and #3 are both low and nearly the same, then you likely have a blown head gasket, or possible burned exhaust valves on those cylinders. You can also squirt a little oil in each cylinder and repeat the compression test. If the pressure reading increases at least 10 psi you probably have bad rings. For a better diagnostic approach before disassembly you can do a blow down test. For each cylinder in turn, rotate engine to exactly TDC on the compression stroke, apply about 20 psi of air pressure to the spark plug port, and listen. Hissing at the carburetor is a leaky intake valve. Hissing at the tail pipe is a leaky exhaust valve. Hissing at the oil filler opening in the valve cover is leaky rings. If you remove the pushrods or move the rocker arms to one side so the valves don't open, then you can do the blow down test at BDC and not worry about the engine spinning from the applied air pressure. Once you acquire this information we can all lend you some more informed suggestions on what to do, and hopefully you won't be spending sums of money on unnecessary repairs while guessing wht might be wrong. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude (and a compression tester in the traveling tool kit) http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 02:00:49 2001 From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 00:54:33 -0800 Subject: Re: Running Rough (the saga continues) My compression test came out all the same 115 across the board (give or take a few) I did find how ever that my brother used my B after I had given it an oil change. He was on a drive when the oil pressure gauge stoped reading (its electric) so he pulled over to the side of the road and added the 1L container I keep in the back. Needless to say the engine has been running with 1L over the recomended level for about two weeks (around the time this all begain) is it possible that there was too much oil in and that is the reason for the fouled plugs?? Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 02:16:08 2001 From: To: "Dodd, Kelvin" , Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:09:39 -0000 Subject: Re: Thread Size I would raise an eyebrow at that. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'Zach Dorsch'" Cc: Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 10:01 PM Subject: RE: Thread Size > I believe British Heritage ... are metric. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 02:16:02 2001 From: To: "me@telewest" Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:08:45 -0000 Subject: test /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 02:40:03 2001 From: Eric To: MGS Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 20:09:05 +1030 Subject: Summer in Australia (OT) Still grizzling about the slow start to Summer! You know it's Summer in Australia when.......... * The best parking place is determined by shade instead of distance. * Hot water now comes out of both taps. * You can make sun tea instantly. * You learn that a seat belt buckle makes a pretty good brandingiron. * The temperature drops below 35C and you feel a little chilly. * You discover that in February it only takes 2 fingers to steer your car. * You discover that you can get sunburned through your car window. * You actually burn your hand opening the car door. * You break a sweat the instant you step outside at 7:30 a.m. * Your biggest bicycle wreck fear is, "What if I get knocked out and end up lying on the pavement and cook to death?" * You realize that asphalt has a liquid state. * The birds have to use potholders to pull worms out of the ground. * The potatoes cook underground, so all you have to do is pull one out and add butter, salt, and pepper. * Farmers are feeding their chickens crushed ice to keep them from laying hard-boiled eggs. * The cows are giving evaporated milk. * The trees are whistling for the dogs -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 02:43:06 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: mgs , mgt Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 03:41:00 -0600 Subject: Colorado Rally Greetings: Some of you might find the links and information at http://www.coloradoautosports.org/ interesting You'll also notice that the cover picture is of an MGA. Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 03:10:59 2001 From: David Deutsch To: MGaholics Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 05:19:00 -0500 Subject: Calendar planning needs / MG 2002 www.mg2002.com is up and running. Safety Fast / B There, David Deutsch, Chairman, North American MGB Register. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 04:04:21 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: jschelli1@shaw.ca, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 06:01:00 -0500 Subject: RE: Running Rough (the saga continues) Don't know exactly about the MGB engine, but I have serviced several Mercedes diesel cars and these all had stickers glued near the oil filler hole reading that overfilling above the max level can cause severe engine damage. I had some little oil over max and this resulted in some oil burning in the engine and some leakage on the floor. Hope it is not too bad. Good luck. Cheers, Hans '71 BGT -----Original Message----- From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck [mailto:jschelli1@shaw.ca] Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 9:55 AM To: MG list Subject: Re: Running Rough (the saga continues) My compression test came out all the same 115 across the board (give or take a few) I did find how ever that my brother used my B after I had given it an oil change. He was on a drive when the oil pressure gauge stoped reading (its electric) so he pulled over to the side of the road and added the 1L container I keep in the back. Needless to say the engine has been running with 1L over the recomended level for about two weeks (around the time this all begain) is it possible that there was too much oil in and that is the reason for the fouled plugs?? Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 04:08:59 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: paul.hunt1@virgin.net, doddk@mossmotors.com, herr_dorsch@yahoo.com Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 06:05:46 -0500 Subject: RE: Thread Size Comes from the US car makers changed to metric much earlier than the UK ones (I still don't know the exact status, but assume most of them are fully metric by now. It's like changing to the Euro (got the first set Eurocoins now and these are too many!) - everyone should go for a standard - metric is most used by now. The British Heritage definitively is not metric! Cheers, Hans -----Original Message----- From: paul.hunt1@virgin.net [mailto:paul.hunt1@virgin.net] Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 10:10 AM To: Dodd, Kelvin; 'Zach Dorsch' Cc: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Thread Size I would raise an eyebrow at that. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'Zach Dorsch'" Cc: Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 10:01 PM Subject: RE: Thread Size > I believe British Heritage ... are metric. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 04:15:05 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: eric@erickson.on.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 06:11:41 -0500 Subject: RE: Summer in Australia (OT) Quite the opposite here - we had -10 deg. Celcius frost last night in the eastern part of the Netherlands. Rumours go around the old guys who had looked to nature: they forecast a long cold winter. Many people are waiting for the Eleven Cities Skating Tour in the province of Friesland, a distance of 200 Kilometers. This tour goes over lakes and canals. A maxmimum of 5,000 people are allowed to take part of this tour. Nice to do the same with MG's in summertime on the road.... Cheers, Hans, who checked all antifreeze in his cars today and have the MGB GT batteries under charge -----Original Message----- From: Eric [mailto:eric@erickson.on.net] Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 10:39 AM To: MGS Subject: Summer in Australia (OT) Still grizzling about the slow start to Summer! You know it's Summer in Australia when.......... * The best parking place is determined by shade instead of distance. * Hot water now comes out of both taps. * You can make sun tea instantly. * You learn that a seat belt buckle makes a pretty good brandingiron. * The temperature drops below 35C and you feel a little chilly. * You discover that in February it only takes 2 fingers to steer your car. * You discover that you can get sunburned through your car window. * You actually burn your hand opening the car door. * You break a sweat the instant you step outside at 7:30 a.m. * Your biggest bicycle wreck fear is, "What if I get knocked out and end up lying on the pavement and cook to death?" * You realize that asphalt has a liquid state. * The birds have to use potholders to pull worms out of the ground. * The potatoes cook underground, so all you have to do is pull one out and add butter, salt, and pepper. * Farmers are feeding their chickens crushed ice to keep them from laying hard-boiled eggs. * The cows are giving evaporated milk. * The trees are whistling for the dogs -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 05:13:31 2001 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Richard Feibusch) To: From: Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 04:12:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: URGENT Federal Legislative Alert - U.S. Senate Bill Would Fund Listers, This Just In!!! Just in time for Christmas, the Feds are trying to establish a Federal Scrappage Program. Sheesh - will this never stop? For those of you who questioned how or why you would get involved with other states' fights, here's your opportunity to join the fight against program that would affect our hobby nationwide. Let's join together to nip this idea in the bud now, before our Federal legislators get any more emboldened. Please, read the attached, then make your best argument to both of your U.S. Senators, even if you believe they may not be sympathetic. We need everyone's help on this one. Cheers (I think!) Rick Feibusch Journalist/Appraiser Coordinator/British Car Meets ----- Original Message ----- From: Brian Caudill Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 2:52 PM Subject: SEMA Action Network URGENT Federal Legislative Alert - U.S. Senate Bill Would Fund Scrappage Programs Nationwide URGENT FEDERAL SCRAPPAGE ALERT U.S. Senate Bill Would Fund Scrappage Programs Nationwide A bill (S. 1766) has been introduced in the U.S. Senate containing a provision (Section 803) that would federally fund state scrappage programs for vehicles over 15 years old. Owners who turn in vehicles for crushing would receive a "minimal" payment and a future credit toward purchasing a newer vehicle, all in a misguided attempt to improve the overall fuel economy of the country's vehicle fleet. This bill represents the most formidable Federal legislative threat to the vehicle hobby in many years. Oppose the Use of U.S. Taxpayer Dollars for Scrappage 7 Section 803 of S. 1766 would give states that don't currently operate scrappage programs an extra incentive to create a program due to generous federal funding. 7 Section 803 of S. 1766 requires that federally funded state scrappage programs crush every car. It threatens enthusiasts nationwide with the loss of valuable parts and parts-cars for repair, restoration, and customization projects. 7 Section 803 of S. 1766 does not require states to determine the fuel efficiency of vehicles being scrapped or that scrapped vehicles are being replaced by more fuel-efficient vehicles. 7 Section 803 of S. 1766 ignores the fact that cars turned in for scrappage often barely run or are rarely driven second or third vehicles that have a minimal impact on overall fuel economy. 7 Section 803 of S. 1766 will diminish the availability of affordable transportation and repair parts to low-income drivers as more and more older cars are crushed. 7 Section 803 of S. 1766 does not guarantee that low-income individuals will be able to afford to purchase new vehicles - let alone more fuel efficient vehicles - with the money provided by scrappage programs. 7 Section 803 of S. 1766 ignores more socially responsible and cost-effective policy options like voluntary vehicle repair and upgrade programs that maximize the fuel efficiency of existing vehicles. . Contact Your U.S. Senators to Oppose Section 803 of S. 1766 Protect American vehicle enthusiasts and low-income drivers. To find out who your U.S. Senators are, call the SEMA Washington, D.C. office at 202-783-6007 or access this information via the Internet at www.enjoythedrive.com/legislative/contact_legislator.asp. For assistance in turning this alert into a letter to your Senator, consult the SEMA document "How to Lobby Elected Officials." This guide is available at www.enjoythedrive.com/san. Please fax a copy of your letters to us at 202/783-6024 or mail to: SEMA Washington Office 1317 F St., NW, Ste. 500 Washington, D.C. 20004 Attn: Brian Caudill/ Steve McDonald /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 06:29:09 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Eric , MGS Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 05:28:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Summer in Australia (OT) LOL, Eric! Although your Oz summer so far doesn't sound too different than our New Jersey winter!!!! Going to be 60's today (although rainy, which we need..) --- Eric wrote: > Still grizzling about the slow start to Summer! ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) http://members.home.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html NAMGBR #5-2328 Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 06:38:09 2001 From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" To: "Eric" , "MGS" Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:41:11 -0600 Subject: Re: Summer in Australia (OT) Thanks for starting my day off with a laugh. May I use some of these? Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: Eric To: MGS Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 3:39 AM Subject: Summer in Australia (OT) > Still grizzling about the slow start to Summer! > > > You know it's Summer in Australia when.......... > * The best parking place is determined by shade instead of distance. > * Hot water now comes out of both taps. > * You can make sun tea instantly. > * You learn that a seat belt buckle makes a pretty good brandingiron. > * The temperature drops below 35C and you feel a little chilly. > * You discover that in February it only takes 2 fingers to steer your car. > * You discover that you can get sunburned through your car window. > * You actually burn your hand opening the car door. > * You break a sweat the instant you step outside at 7:30 a.m. > * Your biggest bicycle wreck fear is, "What if I get knocked out and end > up lying on the pavement and cook to death?" > * You realize that asphalt has a liquid state. > * The birds have to use potholders to pull worms out of the ground. > * The potatoes cook underground, so all you have to do is pull one out > and add butter, salt, and pepper. > * Farmers are feeding their chickens crushed ice to keep them from > laying hard-boiled eggs. > * The cows are giving evaporated milk. > * The trees are whistling for the dogs > > -- > Eric > '68MGB MkII > Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 06:39:52 2001 From: wizardz@toad.net To: dave houser Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:39:21 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: MG info x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" hey Dave... in google type in teglerizer :-) Just to add to Dave's glee.. FYI even Yahoo now uses Google as their primary search engine database. Todate... they simply have never set any geographical or political 'limits' on their spider indexes. So the 1.6 billion+ indexed and 'cached' sites is what makes the egine so fast and so diversified. Get yourself their IR toolbar add-on. Just like your address bar, a second address bar is googles own command prompt! Paul Tegler wizardz@toad.net www.teglerizer.com Quoting dave houser : > Good folks, > Thought I'd share this search engine with you if you haven't found it > already. > Try going to google.com and then typing in mg,mga, mgb as I did and > you'll be amazed at the thousands of links it comes up with. Found > some > I didn't have. Even Barney's there! > No ties, etc. > cheers, > Dave Houser > _________________________________________________________________________ This mail sent via toadmail.com, web e-mail @ ToadNet - want to go fast? http://www.toadmail.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 06:52:16 2001 From: matttrebelhorn@netscape.net (Matthew Trebelhorn) To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:51:32 -0500 Subject: RE: RE: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB..... Dan Hackney wrote: >Regarding the transaxle difficulties, would it be possible to somehow >use part of a Quattro drivetrain to send power to the rear wheels? I >don't know the details of the setup, just wondering out loud... Now that has been a back-burner idea of mine for a while -- a Quattro MGB. A quattro from the '80s (when Audis were 5-cylinder versions of the VW motor) would be a good starting point -- motor is longitudinal, not transverse. And most VW motors of the water-cooled era are swappable without much worry -- the 1.8t or a VR6 will bolt right up to a '78 Rabbit transmission (or an '83 Quattro coupe, or whatever) with no fuss. The front wheels, of course, would be a bit of a problem. But I don't think it would be impossible to design a new crossmember/suspension that would allow that old '60s rally car to carry '80s rally running gear (and an '00s motor) Whee! And thanks, Kai, for bringing up the subject of putting other motors in MGBs. I think if I went to the trouble of a swap, I'd want something a little more advanced than a Buick motor from the Eisenhower administration. (Flame suit on!) When I got my MG (I was 14, 1988 so I don't think there was a list around to join yet...) I was looking for an alfa, and had a hard time with the idea of a sports car with a cast-iron pushrod motor. Don't get me wrong -- I love my MG -- but I still think the motor is a silly little lump. Even by 1963 standards, it was a bit of a compromise. Going on 40 years later... Matt -- __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 08:41:22 2001 From: "Larry Hoy" To: "'mgs'" Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:40:45 -0700 Subject: RE: Colorado Rally That picture is of MGCC members, John and Rebecca MacIntyre, in their 1960 MGA. Larry Hoy > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net > [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bullwinkle > Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 2:41 AM > To: mgs; mgt > Subject: Colorado Rally > > > Greetings: > > Some of you might find the links and information at > http://www.coloradoautosports.org/ > interesting > > You'll also > notice that the cover picture is of an MGA. > > Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 09:10:54 2001 From: "James Laukaitis" To: mgs@us.ibm.com Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 11:10:01 -0500 Subject: Su Meidel To all the folks from Down Under (and any else who has used these guys), What is the consensus on these guys S.U Meidel? http://www.sumidel.com/ I am looking to do a rebuild on my dual SUs and looking around I found this site, but was at first turned off by the fact that it is in Australia. **Only from a shipping aspect, I would LOVE to go to Australia w/my wife (she does too)***, but looking at the price conversion it is cheaper than anything around here. A complete rebuild is $65 and that includes shipping, or so its says on the website. Are we talking slow boat or Federal Express? I am not sure. So has anyone worked with this company, and has feedback? As for the K&N issue I had a while back, and I asked for input of catalog companies (Moss, VB, etc.) I was looking for K&N air filters. They are not cheap and averaging about $60-70/each. I have a friend that has a lathe and milling machine. I think I can commission him to make the plates (Al) I am not sure for how much (I guess he will tell me), but, if I can buy E-2400 K&N air filters for $22-25/each, I can save a lot of money. Thanks to Roger Hotelling for his website and a little guidance, check him out: http://www.hotelling.com his specific page on making a filter setup is: http://www.hotelling.com/mgb7.htm Cheers! Jim L 1967 MGB-GT (I finally got it in the garage) email: jim5@us.ibm.com karma - n. - the force produced by a person's actions in one of their lives which influences what happens to them in their future lives /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 10:06:05 2001 From: WSpohn4@aol.com To: bcfieros@pioneernetworks.com Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 12:00:07 EST Subject: Thought Some of You Guys Might Enjoy This......... >From a vintage racing list - I can relate to far too many of these! Bill YOU KNOW YOU ARE A RACER WHEN: -You think the primary purpose of wings is to PREVENT flight. -You take your helmet along when you go to buy new eyeglasses or check out cars (seats). -You feel compelled on a road trip to beat your previous best time. -You are happiest when your street car's tires are worn to "racing depth". -When something falls off of your car, you wonder how much weight you just saved. -When you hear 'overcooked it', instead of food you think 'off the track'. -You change engine oil every other week. -You sometimes hear little noises from your passengers when you get on the throttle right after turning in. -You thoroughly enjoy showing the tailgater behind how to drive around a highway off-ramp. -Your racing budget is one of the big three - mortgage, car payments/maintenance, dating. -Your email address refers to your race car rather than to you. -You walk "proper lines" through the grocery store. -You've paid $4.00 a gallon for gas without complaining. -You buy new parts because you don't know where you put the spares. -You bought a race car before buying a house. -You bought a race car before buying furniture for the new house. -You're looking for a tow vehicle and still haven't bought furniture! -You find that you need a new house because you've outgrown your garage and the neighbors are threatening violence if you park one more vehicle on the street or in the front yard. -The requirements you give your real estate agent are (in order of importance): 1) 8-car climate controlled garage with an attached shop. 2) Outside parking for 6 cars, a motorhome, a crew cab dualie, a 28' enclosed trailer and a 34' 5th wheel. 3) 3 phase 220V outlets in the garage for your welder. 4) A grease pit. 5) Conveniently close to a hazardous waste disposal site. 6) Deaf neighbors. 7) Across the street from a paint and body shop. 8) Some sort of house with a working toilet and shower on the property somewhere or hookups for the motorhome. -You measure all family acquisitions in terms of the number of race tires that could have been purchased. -You know well that orthodontic work is the equivalent of three sets of tires. -You sit in your race car in a dark garage and make car noises and shift and practice your heel and toe, while waiting for your motor to get back from the machine shop. -You look at the purchase of tools as a long term investment. -Your wife says, "If you buy another set of tires, I'm getting a new mink." -Your garage holds more cars than your house has bedrooms. -You have enough spare parts to build another car. -More than one racer supply house recognizes your voice and greets you by name when you call. -You have car parts in your cubicle at work. -You think the last line of the Star Spangled Banner is: "Racers, start your engines!" -If you can't remember when you last worked on weekdays and rested on weekends. -You're registered for wedding gifts at Pegasus and Racer Wholesale. -Your Christmas list begins with "another set of Toyo RA1's" and aluminum rods (and your 'significant other' knows what these are). -After your answer to "What did you do this weekend?" the next question is always: "And you do this for fun? Right?" -You have a separate drawer for 'garage clothes'. -Your reading material in your bathroom consists of auto parts and racing supply catalogs, several books written by famous drivers, every book Carroll Smith has ever written and 400 car magazines, none of which have centerfolds. -People know you by your class letter, car number, and car color. -People know you by your "off"s". "Oh, you're the one stuck in the mud at ButtonBog last weekend!" -Your first date involves asking her to crew for you. -Your criteria for selecting a significant other include auto repair skills. Air tools optional. -Your friends don't recognize you without a helmet and driver's suit. -Your family remembers your hair color as "grease". -You plan your wedding around the race schedule. -You astound the clerk at Sears by bringing in a snapped breaker bar every other week or so. -You remember the dates and details of every race you've ever been in, but can't remember your phone number. -Your family brings the couch into the garage so they can spend some time with you. -You complain when cars in front of you on highway off-ramps don't stay on the line, causing your exit speed to drop. -A neighbor asks if you have any oil, to which you query, "Synthetic or organic?" and they reply, "Vegetable or corn." -You give out Automotive Engineering's number when a friend asks for the best hardware store. -You refer to the corner down the street from your house as "Turn One." -You look at the fire hydrant at that corner and see an apex marker. -You enjoy driving in the rain on the way to work or school. -You always late apex the intersection and try to pass a few cars coming out. -Everywhere you go, you try to find the fastest line through the turn. -You always do a toe & heel downshift while your passenger gives you a real funny look. -You can't stand anyone telling others how to drive. Of course, you are the best. -You can't stand understeer. -You always want to change something in your street car to make it handle better. -You will gladly pay up to $8 for a quart of engine oil. -You hate long distance drives to visit relatives of to go on vacation, but you will gladly drive 800 miles to the race track. -You think that traction control and ABS are for those who can't drive. -You've ever tried to convince your wife you needed that flow bench to fix the air filter on her van. -You save broken car parts as "mementos". -Your last several freeway forays included just brushing the curbs as you apexed the on-ramps perfectly. -You've found your lawn mower runs pretty good on 108 octane gas (but doesn't care for alcohol). -The local tire shop won't honor the tread life warranty on any car you have been within 50 yards of. -The shop manager at your local car dealer mutters "dear Lord" under his breath after he sees the size of your exhaust system. -The local police and state Highway Patrol have a picture of your car taped to their dashboard. -You spend more time polishing your exhaust tips every day than you do bathing. -Instead of pictures in your wallet, you have qualifying times. -You would choose a roll bar over air conditioning if it were an option. -You enjoy driving through wet, empty parking lots and using the emergency brake to kick the back end out. -White smoke coming out from under your tires is a common sight. -You consider the redline a "conservative suggestion" and the rev limiter "a fun limiter." -You spend more on insurance premiums than on food. -Your idea of a good time is sitting around figuring out gear ratios and the ideal final drive ratio for given situations. -When someone refers to "The Good Book", you think of "Prepared to Win." -When someone asks where you went to school, you reply, "Skip Barber". -You have racing shops programmed on your speed dialer. -You own five cars and only one of them is street legal. -You know the 1/4 mile times and skid pad numbers of your riding mower and want to improve them. -You've embarrassed your significant other at least once by insisting on wearing your full face helmet while driving. -You know the "racing line" of every turn in your daily commute, including your alternate routes, and practice hitting them every day. -You quote your street tire wear life in weeks rather than miles. -You regularly live test your rev limiter on that straight that's a little too long for 2nd but not worth going into 3rd for. -You've started looking for sponsors for your daily commute. -You've slalomed in a construction zone, and counted your penalty time in the rearview afterwards. -After you tell your wife where you'd like to go on your vacation she answers: "Why... is there a race there?" /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 10:51:58 2001 From: "James H. Nazarian, Ph.D." To: mgs List Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 11:44:05 -0500 Subject: Truer words were never spoken! (No MG Content) I received this on one of my BMW Motorcycle lists. I couldn't stop myself from posting it for the MG list to enjoy. I thought it hilarious; I hope you do too. How many Internet mail list subscribers does it take to change a light bulb? 1 to change the light bulb and to post to the mail list that the light bulb has been changed 14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs 27 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light bulbs 53 to flame the spell checkers 41 to correct spelling/grammar flames 6 to argue over whether it's "lightbulb" or "light bulb" another 6 to condemn those 6 as anal-retentive 156 to write to the list administrator about the light bulb discussion and its inappropriateness to this mail list 109 to post that this list is not about light bulbs and to please take this email exchange to litebulb-l 203 to demand that cross posting to grammar-l, spelling-l and illuminati-l about changing light bulbs be stopped 111 to defend the posting to this list saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts *are* relevant to this mail list 306 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and what brands are faulty 27 to post URL's where one can see examples of different light bulbs 14 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and the post the corrected URL's 3 to post about links they found from the URL's that are relevant to this list which makes light bulbs relevant to this list 4 to suggest that posters request the light bulb FAQ 44 to ask what is "FAQ" 33 to link all posts to date, then quote them including all headers and footers and then add "Me too" 19 to quote the "Me too's" to say "Me three" 12 to post to the list that they are unsubscribing because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy ----- John Ferris Jim microdoc@zoominternet.net 1960 MGA 1600 Very Red 1974 MGB-GT Damask (Very Burgundy) Red /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 12:19:29 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'paul.hunt1@virgin.net'" , Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 11:19:23 -0800 Subject: RE: Thread Size I'm basing my comment on recollection and in no way intend to cast aspersions. My understanding was that the nutserts installed were metric, probably because that is now industry standard in the UK. I know for certain, some Asian reproduction fenders had metric hardware. I am pretty sure that we also ran into the same problem with Heritage fenders but it is very difficult to pin down suppliers. At the time, my main concern was that salespeople were recommending fender mounting hardware kits that would not work with some of the fenders on the market. Since the threads were typically coated in paint there were cases where threads were damaged before the installer realized what the problem was. Kelvin Dodd. > Subject: Re: Thread Size > > > I would raise an eyebrow at that. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dodd, Kelvin" > To: "'Zach Dorsch'" > Cc: > Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 10:01 PM > Subject: RE: Thread Size > > > > I believe British Heritage ... are metric. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 13:09:05 2001 From: Barry Christ To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: 14 Dec 2001 12:08:19 -0800 Subject: MGC Engine paint Color Need to know what the correct paint code # is for a 1969 MGC-GT Engine. The color is a Silver Green color. What is this paint color name and code, and when could I purchase it? Thanks Barry Christ Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 13:41:22 2001 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 12:40:40 -0800 Subject: Re: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB !!!!! I would think that engine would cost more than any Spitfire on the planet! Of course, cost/benefit analysis doesn't seem to be a priority for autocrossers in general... on 12/13/01 8:15 PM, Kai M. Radicke at kmr@pil.net wrote: > Jim, that got me thinking. Joe Curry on the Spitfire list mounted a Honda > VTEC engine in his autocross Spitfire... first outing wasn't successful > though, engine malfunction light came while he was waiting in the queue. He > used a motor from an S2000, presumably because of the performance levels and > the 6spd gearbox. Using an S2000 motor one would get about 120hp/liter... > > Kai > -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 14:10:44 2001 From: "James H. Nazarian, Ph.D." To: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 15:02:41 -0500 Subject: Re: Audi/VW 1.8T into MGB (s2000 Reply) Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck wrote: > .... I am looking forward to the classic lines of the B with running gear that > will go over 100km/h (60mph I think) in reverse. Man! Now that sounds like something I could use....... Great for commuters! Jim microdoc@zoominternet.net 2000 Audi A4 Quattro Avant Very Silver 1960 MGA 1600 Very Red 1974 MGB-GT Damask (Very Burgundy) Red /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 14 16:10:02 2001 From: "Carter Tuggle" To: "mgs list" Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 17:11:52 -0600 Subject: electrical problem I wrote in a while back about my 79 midget. Long story short. Bad alternator, cased bad battery. Replaced now but still have a faint glow on the ignition light. I have allot of you reply back to tell me that it is more than likely a wiring problem somewhere. I have not had any time to even begin looking. I had a thought today. I did an interior re-do. Is there a ground that I may have missed when I put the dash back in? If it isn't grounded properly could this be my problem. I hope I can get some time off soon to look. Thanks Carter goutvols2@home.com 79 midget 96 land rover Carter /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 04:31:30 2001 From: To: "Carter Tuggle" , "mgs list" Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:31:35 -0000 Subject: Re: electrical problem The usual cause of a dimly glowing light, particularly if it increases as you increase the electrical load, is bad diodes in the alt. However bad connections between the alt and the rest of the electrics could possibly cause it, if it is very dim. The best thing to do is measure the voltage on each side of the warning light with the engine running at about 1500rpm. You can do this at the brown/yellow at the alt and the white at the fuse-box, or ignition relay if you have one, and the battery. Ideally you should see about 14.5v on all three. The light will glow if the brown/yellow and white voltages are different, but it needs 2 or 3 volts difference to be visible. Further diagnosis depends on which of the three are higher, or lower, than 14.5. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carter Tuggle" To: "mgs list" Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 11:11 PM Subject: electrical problem > I wrote in a while back about my 79 midget. Long story short. Bad > alternator, cased bad battery. Replaced now but still have a faint glow on > the ignition light. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 05:06:50 2001 From: To: Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:08:40 -0000 Subject: Re: URGENT Federal Legislative Alert - U.S. Senate Bill Would The French did this some time ago, now it is said they are making it compulsory because of the asbestos in brakes, clutches and head gaskets. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Feibusch" To: Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 12:12 PM Subject: URGENT Federal Legislative Alert - U.S. Senate Bill Would Fund Scrappage Programs Nationwide > Listers, > > This Just In!!! > > Just in time for Christmas, the Feds are trying to establish a Federal > Scrappage Program. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 09:17:27 2001 From: stephen bartley To: MG Mailing List Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:15:32 -0500 Subject: Which tire for my MG? Hello list.... This year I am planning on getting a set of center-lock Minilite replicas as a Christmas gift for my MGB. I am planning on using 185/70-14 tires, I was wondering what the consensus of the list is regarding type/brand of tire. I am just starting to research tires and I am looking at the Dunlop D65T touring and the Pirelli P-400 Touring and P-4000 Super Touring so far. My car is driven only in the summer months here in New England, very rarely in wet weather, never in snow. I am looking for a comfortable tire to put up with the sometimes rough New Hampshire back roads. I am not really looking for a true performance tire, but something that offers good handling & a nice ride in mostly dry conditions, and I am looking to spend somewhere in the $50 price range per tire. Comments, Please?? TIA Stephen P Bartley Portsmouth NH 1963 MGB "We'll throw all our cares away, It's a Ragtop Day"--Jimmy Buffett /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 09:40:59 2001 From: Bill Saidel To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:40:08 -0500 (EST) Subject: heater valve question Happy holidays all, My 76B (4 years mine) has never generated internal heat when I turned the heater knob to full on. Given summer driving and a warm leather jacket for early spring and late fall, it hasn't been a problem, but the lack of heat has been a mystery. After going over Haynes and Bently, I did the 1st step. My daughter sat in the car and turned the knob while I watched the valve (now why didn't I think of that before?). Nothing moved. By hand, I moved the valve stem connected to the cable fully clockwise and fully counterclockwise. In the fully counterCW position, a stem protrudes out of the valve and after running the car till it showed heat on the T-guage, I actually felt heat for the very first time. My qustion is in resetting the position of the cable. The options are to set the length of the cable with the knob and heat full on and then the cable movement to turn the heat off is a 'pull' or should I set the length with the knob and heat off and then turning the heat on is a 'push' which is, IMHO, a fairly stupid design. My other question is how do I lubricate the cable while connected at both ends and within the cable jacket? Other notes: I sprayed WD40 into the valve mechanism for 3 days running and now when I set full heat on the knob and valve by hand, turning the heat off by the knob moves the valve about 1/2 way to off. Does this mean the valve is shot and I should replace it? Can it be rebuilt or re'lubed"? It should move effortlessly, should it not? Any hints, comments, whatever will be entertained in the light offered! Happy holidays, Bill '76B NJ - US (curious to know where we're from) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 10:02:11 2001 From: To: "Bill Saidel" , Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 17:03:40 -0000 Subject: Re: heater valve question See http://hometown.aol.com//bobmunch/HTRVlsHT.htm for a description of the valve and improvements that can be made. As I recall mine pushes to open the valve and pulls to close it and is set to close the valve when the knob is in the 'off' position, which seems pretty sensible to me. This results in the valve being about 3/4 open when the knob is in the 'hot' position. You may find that the sheath has pulled out of the clamp at the knob end giving you a reduced movement at the valve end. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Saidel" To: Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 4:40 PM Subject: heater valve question > My qustion is in resetting the position of the cable. The options are to > set the length of the cable with the knob and heat full on and then the > cable movement to turn the heat off is a 'pull' or should I set the length > with the knob and heat off and then turning the heat on is a 'push' which > is, IMHO, a fairly stupid design. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 11:43:45 2001 From: "James H. Nazarian, Ph.D." To: stephen bartley Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:33:14 -0500 Subject: Re: Which tire for my MG? stephen bartley wrote: > Hello list.... This year I am planning on getting a set of center-lock > Minilite replicas as a Christmas gift for my MGB. I am planning on using > 185/70-14 tires, I was wondering what the consensus of the list is regarding > type/brand of tire. I am just starting to research tires and I am looking at > the Dunlop D65T touring and the Pirelli P-400 Touring and P-4000 Super > Touring so far. My car is driven only in the summer months here in New > England, very rarely in wet weather, never in snow. I am looking for a > comfortable tire to put up with the sometimes rough New Hampshire back > roads. I am not really looking for a true performance tire, but something > that offers good handling & a nice ride in mostly dry conditions, and I am > looking to spend somewhere in the $50 price range per tire. Comments, > Please?? > > TIA > Stephen P Bartley > Portsmouth NH > 1963 MGB I use the Dunlops on my '74 MGB-GT. I'm satisfied with the good handling, soft and quiet ride they provide. They are good wet or dry, even in the one snow storm that surprised me (NO SALT!). Someone who does web sites should set up an MG tire database for the list that would cover T's, A's, B's, Midgets and even saloons and sedans. Jim microdoc@zoominternet.net 2000 Audi A4 Quattro Avant Very Silver 1960 MGA 1600 Very Red 1974 MGB-GT Damask (Very Burgundy) Red /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 13:17:51 2001 From: dave houser To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 15:16:24 -0800 Subject: Electronic Fuel Pumps As we know, Burlen Fuel Systems, Su and Zenith specialists, has been producing a range of kits to convert our fuel pumps to electronic actuation. They look identical from the outside and retain the famous(infamous, if not there) tick,tick,tick. So, just how small is that tiny tape they have recorded? Who's tried this conversion and do you recommend? cheers, Dave Houser /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 13:52:11 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: ragtopday@mediaone.net Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 15:51:21 EST Subject: Re: Which tire for my MG? Steven, Your Question was:(quote) I am not really looking for a true performance tire, but something that offers good handling & a nice ride in mostly dry conditions, and I am looking to spend somewhere in the $50 price range per tire. Comments, Please?? The Answer: Look in 1984 or '85 because now a good all-purpose radial with any longevity at all will run you at least $75.00 to $100.00 ea. Especially the two brands you specified, Dunlop and Pirelli. A good off brand, but not as well known is the Cooper Tire I've had a lot of luck with them. Still you're looking at a tire that'll probably still run you $65-$75 ea. That's really not a lot money in terms of safety, performance and long life. P.S. check out the warranty. If it says it will prorate the existing tire in case of a "road hazard or curb damage" ask if you can upgrade it to something with more extensive coverage" Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 15:26:37 2001 From: "Jerry Causey" To: MG Mailing List Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 14:25:52 -0800 Subject: Re: Which tire for my MG? Stephen: Dunlop SP Sport A2 in 185/65x14. US$53.00 each from Tire Rack. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/dunlop/du_sp_a2.jsp About as close as you can get in a modern tire to the diameter of the original 155/80x14 (roadster) tire. http://www.tolan-hoechst.com/cars/tirecalc.htm Unfortunately, from all reports (owner survey at Tire Rack), it doesn't quite fit your criteria, since it IS a high performance tire, great dry road tire, works almost as well in the wet as in the dry, even works well in light snow, quiet ride....in short, a true modern miracle. It will definitely be the tire of choice for my GT next spring in a plus size, 195/60x15. Regards, Jerry > Hello list.... This year I am planning on getting a set of center-lock > Minilite replicas as a Christmas gift for my MGB. I am planning on > using 185/70-14 tires, I was wondering what the consensus of the list > is regarding type/brand of tire. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 16:05:33 2001 From: Carl W French To: stephen bartley , Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:05:03 -0500 Subject: Re: Which tire for my MG? > and I am >looking to spend somewhere in the $50 price range per tire. Comments, >Please?? Steve, I do not have one near by but I (and you I am sure) have received more than one VIP Auto flyer. I know they have some very good prices on some of their tires (Pirelli included). Our Club President owns the Portland, Maine franchise and he could be very good with candid experience on the different models. Just a thought, If you want his name and number let me know and you could call him at work. He is very friendly and approachable. Carl French (Planning on a long winter of shooting holes in my freezer :-) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 18:25:39 2001 From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 17:19:43 -0800 Subject: Hard top I am going to pick up my hard top this weekend. I was planning to go in the B as I would love a long drive but weather has made it impassable so I have to take a car from work. Any one have any Idea weather or not a factory original one would fit in the back of a 1997 Honda CR-V? Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 18:39:23 2001 From: Carl W French To: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck , Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 20:39:06 -0500 Subject: Re: Hard top Doubt it, You are going to need a measuring tape for this one. I believe you are going to find the distance between doors is going to be in excess of four feet and the fore/aft measurement should be similar. You should be able to get a reasonable height idea of the top. This is a big item in terms of space to be taken up. Do you have or can you rig a roof rack for the CRV? That would be very doable provided you use a lot of tie downs and drive slow. Carl > Any one have any Idea weather or not a factory original one would fit in > the back of a 1997 Honda CR-V? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 18:54:22 2001 From: "Paul T. Root" To: Jerry Causey Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 19:53:51 -0600 Subject: Re: Which tire for my MG? On Sat, Dec 15, 2001 at 02:25:52PM -0800, Jerry Causey wrote: > Stephen: > Dunlop SP Sport A2 in 185/65x14. US$53.00 each from Tire Rack. > http://www.tirerack.com/tires/dunlop/du_sp_a2.jsp > > About as close as you can get in a modern tire to the diameter of the original > 155/80x14 (roadster) tire. > http://www.tolan-hoechst.com/cars/tirecalc.htm > > Unfortunately, from all reports (owner survey at Tire Rack), it doesn't quite fit > your criteria, since it IS a high performance tire, great dry road tire, works > almost as well in the wet as in the dry, even works well in light snow, quiet > ride....in short, a true modern miracle. It will definitely be the tire of choice for > my GT next spring in a plus size, 195/60x15. Sounds pretty nice. I was thinking of getting some Yokohama's as I've had such good luck with them. Will 195 fit on the wheels? They must be 6in wide? Panasports? > Regards, > Jerry > > > Hello list.... This year I am planning on getting a set of center-lock > > Minilite replicas as a Christmas gift for my MGB. I am planning on > > using 185/70-14 tires, I was wondering what the consensus of the list > > is regarding type/brand of tire. -- "I haven't committed a crime. What I did was fail to comply with the law." -- David Dinkins, New York City Mayor, answering accusations that he failed to pay his taxes. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 20:05:45 2001 From: Eric To: MGS Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 13:35:41 +1030 Subject: Re: Which tire for my MG? "Paul T. Root" wrote: > > > > Unfortunately, from all reports (owner survey at Tire Rack), it doesn't quite fit > > your criteria, since it IS a high performance tire, great dry road tire, works > > almost as well in the wet as in the dry, even works well in light snow, quiet > > ride....in short, a true modern miracle. It will definitely be the tire of choice for > > my GT next spring in a plus size, 195/60x15. > > Sounds pretty nice. I was thinking of getting some Yokohama's as I've > had such good luck with them. Will 195 fit on the wheels? They must > be 6in wide? Panasports? > To answer your "will they fit" question, I currently run Yokohama A509 195/60 as street tyres on my standard 14x5" Rostyle rims. The tyres themselves are beyond what you are looking at paying (but if you invest a little more you might be surprised at the big difference in all aspects of your car's handling). They are great roadholders, I love them. I think the A509s have been superceded so check with your dealer but they wouldn't be much more expensive than $US60/70 and I am so glad I moved away from supa-cheap tyres to a quality product. I raced half the last season on Potenza 205/60 (the Japanese soft compound version) on 15x5.5" rims (they *do* fit... but just) - it was an experiment in the wide tyres and I ran them on 15" rims because I got them cheap and that is the size they came in second hand. For this coming season I go back to 14" rims and I was so impressed with the Potenzas that I will buy myself a new set (for the 14" rims) at just over $AU300 each. You can see the big, blocky Potenzas on the bottom section of this page http://www.autospeed.co.nz/A_0593/P_4/article.html The Yokohama A032R at the top of that page looks impressive but has a price tag of $AU455 - wow, above even *my* budget :-) I will keep using the Yokohamas for street tyres (the Potenzas are too soft and expensive to ruin on the roads:-) -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 23:11:54 2001 From: Peter Guagenti To: MG Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 22:11:16 -0800 Subject: Starting up a motor that's sat... I'm at a point in my MGA Deluxe restoration where I'd like to start up the motor. It has sat for at least 6 years without having been started, but I've been able to get the car to turn over with the hand crank. How should I go about getting her started? Anyone have advice on what I should do and in what order? I was planning on changing the oil, overhauling the radiator and hoses, and extracting the old fuel/replacing it with fresh fuel. What else should I consider? I have one problem on top of this -- the cables that connected the single 12v battery the previous owner installed had welded themselves to the battery posts. I had to pull everything out together when extracting the old, leaking battery. This left the cables back there a mess. Is there anyway I could simply connect a battery under the hood to crank the car, bypassing the rest of the electrical system? Any advice is appreciated. I really would like to fire this car up without having to strip it down further. Thanks. -peterg /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 15 23:40:22 2001 From: barneymg@ntsource.com To: Peter Guagenti , MG Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 00:40:19 -0600 Subject: Re: Starting up a motor that's sat... At 10:11 PM 12/15/01 -0800, Peter Guagenti wrote: >.... MGA Deluxe .... It has sat for at least 6 years without having been >started, but >I've been able to get the car to turn over with the hand crank. > >How should I go about getting her started? .... Too much to repeat on the list, but after a few times around I have posted it here: http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg/mgtech/engine/de101a.htm >.... the cables that connected the single 12v battery .... a mess. Is >there anyway I could simply connect a battery under the hood to crank the >car, bypassing the rest of the electrical system? If you want to try this with jumper cables, be aware that the starter wants to draw a couple hundred amps and won't function well without it. This is likely to require the equivalent of two sets of heavy duty jumper cables hooked up in parallel to carry enough current. Otherwise you need real battery cables, one to the input side of the starter manual switch, and one to a solid grounding point on the engine. For the purpose of starting it the first time, the starter motor doesn't care about the polarity, the ignition coil is not much affected either way, and nothing else matters. Original MGA fuel pumps are not polarity sensitive, but some aftermarket electric pumps are. Before starting you have to have the fuel pump running, or otherwise provide some means of delivering fuel to the carburetors. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 16 14:32:27 2001 From: dave houser To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 16:30:43 -0800 Subject: asbestos in cars, NOT. Good Folks, FYI, Aren't all the parts, we use, asbestos free in our country, already? Just got my latest copy of "Thoroughbred and Classic Cars" and there is an article in there that could mean trouble if it gets to us. No, not Mad Cow, but Mad asbestos parts. Any car containing any asbestos, such as brake pads, clutch plates, and even head gaskets could be banned from the roads according to legislation that is becoming law in France as of Jan. 1, 2002! Non-toxic parts must be fitted and a check to make sure will confirm it. The Brits currently ban asbestos but vehicles currently fitted are not affected. Anybody hear about this before? cheers, Dave Houser /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 16 15:12:20 2001 From: "Rick Brown" To: Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 17:11:41 -0500 Subject: Re: asbestos in cars, NOT. x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Dave Ive heard something along those lines cant remember where though. The Heat schield behind the carbs is asbestos coated if I'm not mistaken . rick --------- http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil ---------- http://members.home.net/brown409 ----- Original Message ----- From: "dave houser" To: Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 7:30 PM Subject: asbestos in cars, NOT. x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" > Good Folks, FYI, > Aren't all the parts, we use, asbestos free in our country, already? > Just got my latest copy of "Thoroughbred and Classic Cars" and there is > an article in there that could mean trouble if it gets to us. No, not > Mad Cow, but Mad asbestos parts. > Any car containing any asbestos, such as brake pads, clutch plates, and > even head gaskets could be banned from the roads according to > legislation that is becoming law in France as of Jan. 1, 2002! Non-toxic > parts must be fitted and a check to make sure will confirm it. > The Brits currently ban asbestos but vehicles currently fitted are not > affected. > Anybody hear about this before? > cheers, > Dave Houser /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 16 17:32:56 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Rick Brown , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 16:32:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: asbestos in cars, NOT. x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" That is what I understood, re: the heat shield... When restoring mine I decided against removing the pads and just put about 10 coats of heat paint on them to make them solid... A friend in the asbestos-removing business said this would be fine... --- Rick Brown wrote: > The Heat schield behind the carbs is asbestos coated if I'm not mistaken ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) http://members.home.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html NAMGBR #5-2328 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 16 18:07:52 2001 From: "Tom Bott" To: "MG Net" Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 20:06:42 -0500 Subject: Long term engine storage Good Day All, In order to make room for my latest project (actually to raise money to support my latest project), I am beginning to part out a 80 B. The engine is still complete and full of fluids. My question is this -- can someone direct me to a web site or other source as to what I should be doing along the way to protect the block/radiator as I remove parts off of them? And once all is removed and block/radiator is pulled, what preventative measures should be taken to protect them from elements and whatever? (I have visions of various varmints taking up residence in the #3 hole) Thanks folks, Tom Jacksonville, Florida "The reason the English drink warm beer is because they have Lucas refrigerators" /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 16 19:14:54 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: mgs4dave@warwick.net Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 21:14:02 EST Subject: Re: asbestos in cars, NOT. x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Dave, In a message dated 12/16/01 1:33:06 PM Pacific Standard Time, mgs4dave@warwick.net writes: > Any car containing any asbestos, such as brake pads, clutch plates, and > even head gaskets could be banned from the roads according to > legislation that is becoming law in France as of Jan. 1, 2002! Non-toxic > parts must be fitted and a check to make sure will confirm it. > The Brits currently ban asbestos but vehicles currently fitted are not > affected. > Anybody hear about this before? > cheers, > Dave Houser > > This and the proposed Federal pre-1966 Vehicle Scappage Law seem like they all are emanating from the same location. Somebody wants us to buy more new vehicles. Hmmmm, now just who has a lot of unsold "new" vehicles they need to unload. Nothing I'd want to buy. Not just now anyway. I'm trying to keep my vintage beauties running! Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 05:16:16 2001 From: Mromgbtkd@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 07:14:33 EST Subject: Epa limits I'm in the need of finding out the limits for EPA testing in other states. In Illinois we are trying to limit testing to 20 years. I know CAL is 23years and I think Washington is 20years. Any info on the limits is needed for the legislature. Mike Olsen /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 06:30:46 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Jerry Causey , MG Mailing List Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 05:29:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Which tire for my MG? I can comment on these tires as I have them on my '95 VW Jetta in size 195/60-14... I don't like them as much as the Bridgestone Potenza RE940's I had on previously. Seems to me they 'roll under' a bit more - sidewall flex, maybe? The steering feels a bit less precise as well. I'm sure the suspension with 95,000 miles is a bit to blame. However, they are excellent in the wet and ride very well. Haven't been able to try them in the snow yet! Overall, I would say they are a 6 out of 10. If you drive your MG aggressively, try something else. --- Jerry Causey wrote: > Stephen: > Dunlop SP Sport A2 in 185/65x14. US$53.00 each from Tire Rack. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 06:44:51 2001 From: "Ryan, Wesley" To: "'Dan DiBiase'" , Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 08:39:42 -0500 Subject: The famous Clutch!!! Ok Ok I know I have been working on my clutch now for weeks and still can't get it to work right. I bled the clutch over the weekend and while my wife pushed the petal in; the rubber hose started to spray fluid. she also mentioned that the petal was getting tough to push. Does this sound like the hose is bad or can it be something worse that caused the hose to break. It appears to me that you can't put the clutch in backwards because it won't slide over the spindle to the transmission. Am I correct? Regardless I am going to get a new hose I just wanted to know your thoughts. Wesley Ryan Project Engineer GI Plastek Phone: 937-645-4018 Fax: 937-642-5326 Cell: 937-243-0909 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 06:46:07 2001 From: matttrebelhorn@netscape.net (Matthew Trebelhorn) To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 08:44:39 -0500 Subject: Tachometer reading 800-1000 RPM too high This weekend I did a little electrical work -- replaced a battery clamp, fuel tank sender, secured the ground to the speedometer, and installed halogen dash lights from Jeff Zorn. Beautiful all around. So this morning I came to work -- about 30 miles, with rain getting heavier the whole way. About 5 miles from work, the tachometer started reading high -- showing 4500 rpm at 60-ish mph. When I stopped at a light and let the car idle, it showed 1500 rpm. The car is a '70 B roadster. Any ideas as to what might cause this? Is it a problem with the heat generated by the halogen bulbs in combination with my heater/demister? Is it a problem with water getting into the instruments? Any suggestions appreciated. Matt -- __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 06:54:04 2001 From: "Ken Waringa" To: "Ryan, Wesley" , Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 07:52:03 -0600 Subject: RE: The famous Clutch!!! Wesley, yes the clutch disk will go in backwards, very easily! In my case, when I pushed the clutch in there was a terrible squealing noise. A real PITA removing the tranny to turn the disk around. I pay real close attention now. Hopefully your case will just be the weak hose that broke. Ken -----Original Message----- From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ryan, Wesley Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 7:40 AM To: 'Dan DiBiase'; Jerry Causey; MG Mailing List Subject: The famous Clutch!!! Ok Ok I know I have been working on my clutch now for weeks and still can't get it to work right. I bled the clutch over the weekend and while my wife pushed the petal in; the rubber hose started to spray fluid. she also mentioned that the petal was getting tough to push. Does this sound like the hose is bad or can it be something worse that caused the hose to break. It appears to me that you can't put the clutch in backwards because it won't slide over the spindle to the transmission. Am I correct? Regardless I am going to get a new hose I just wanted to know your thoughts. Wesley Ryan Project Engineer GI Plastek Phone: 937-645-4018 Fax: 937-642-5326 Cell: 937-243-0909 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 06:58:05 2001 From: "Ryan, Wesley" To: "'Ken Waringa'" , Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 08:52:51 -0500 Subject: RE: The famous Clutch!!! It appeared to me that the clutch disk only went in one way. I tried it the other way and it wouldn't go over the spindle. I will hopefully be alright but we shall see once I get the new hose. I assume that I will hear a squeal or something if the disk is in backwards????? Wesley Ryan Project Engineer GI Plastek Phone: 937-645-4018 Fax: 937-642-5326 Cell: 937-243-0909 -----Original Message----- From: Ken Waringa [mailto:kwaringa@dynsys.com] Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 8:52 AM To: Ryan, Wesley; 'Dan DiBiase'; Jerry Causey; MG Mailing List Subject: RE: The famous Clutch!!! Wesley, yes the clutch disk will go in backwards, very easily! In my case, when I pushed the clutch in there was a terrible squealing noise. A real PITA removing the tranny to turn the disk around. I pay real close attention now. Hopefully your case will just be the weak hose that broke. Ken -----Original Message----- From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ryan, Wesley Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 7:40 AM To: 'Dan DiBiase'; Jerry Causey; MG Mailing List Subject: The famous Clutch!!! Ok Ok I know I have been working on my clutch now for weeks and still can't get it to work right. I bled the clutch over the weekend and while my wife pushed the petal in; the rubber hose started to spray fluid. she also mentioned that the petal was getting tough to push. Does this sound like the hose is bad or can it be something worse that caused the hose to break. It appears to me that you can't put the clutch in backwards because it won't slide over the spindle to the transmission. Am I correct? Regardless I am going to get a new hose I just wanted to know your thoughts. Wesley Ryan Project Engineer GI Plastek Phone: 937-645-4018 Fax: 937-642-5326 Cell: 937-243-0909 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 06:58:31 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: wryan@giplastek.com, d_dibiase@yahoo.com, jcausey@whidbey.com, Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 08:54:29 -0500 Subject: RE: The famous Clutch!!! did you replace the slave cyl hose? If not - do it. Does not cost that much and it is worth while. Bleeding in your way with someone pushing the pedal on your command should be going fine. I did bleeding this way of the cluth in 15 minutes from scratch. You must beware that the reservoir keeps its level. Pedal move should be easy. Perhaps the metal tube from the master cyl. to the hose is clogged. Have it cleaned - flushed with a kind of alcohol. Good luck. Cheers, Hans '71 BGT -----Original Message----- From: Ryan, Wesley [mailto:wryan@giplastek.com] Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 2:40 PM To: 'Dan DiBiase'; Jerry Causey; MG Mailing List Subject: The famous Clutch!!! Ok Ok I know I have been working on my clutch now for weeks and still can't get it to work right. I bled the clutch over the weekend and while my wife pushed the petal in; the rubber hose started to spray fluid. she also mentioned that the petal was getting tough to push. Does this sound like the hose is bad or can it be something worse that caused the hose to break. It appears to me that you can't put the clutch in backwards because it won't slide over the spindle to the transmission. Am I correct? Regardless I am going to get a new hose I just wanted to know your thoughts. Wesley Ryan Project Engineer GI Plastek Phone: 937-645-4018 Fax: 937-642-5326 Cell: 937-243-0909 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 07:00:58 2001 From: "Ryan, Wesley" To: "'Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com'" , Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 08:55:43 -0500 Subject: RE: The famous Clutch!!! The hose to the slave is the one that blew out. I have another one coming however, I just wanted to know some of your thoughts on why it blew and why the petal was difficult to push in. Wesley Ryan Project Engineer GI Plastek Phone: 937-645-4018 Fax: 937-642-5326 Cell: 937-243-0909 -----Original Message----- From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com [mailto:Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com] Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 8:54 AM To: wryan@giplastek.com; d_dibiase@yahoo.com; jcausey@whidbey.com; mgs@autox.team.net Subject: RE: The famous Clutch!!! did you replace the slave cyl hose? If not - do it. Does not cost that much and it is worth while. Bleeding in your way with someone pushing the pedal on your command should be going fine. I did bleeding this way of the cluth in 15 minutes from scratch. You must beware that the reservoir keeps its level. Pedal move should be easy. Perhaps the metal tube from the master cyl. to the hose is clogged. Have it cleaned - flushed with a kind of alcohol. Good luck. Cheers, Hans '71 BGT -----Original Message----- From: Ryan, Wesley [mailto:wryan@giplastek.com] Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 2:40 PM To: 'Dan DiBiase'; Jerry Causey; MG Mailing List Subject: The famous Clutch!!! Ok Ok I know I have been working on my clutch now for weeks and still can't get it to work right. I bled the clutch over the weekend and while my wife pushed the petal in; the rubber hose started to spray fluid. she also mentioned that the petal was getting tough to push. Does this sound like the hose is bad or can it be something worse that caused the hose to break. It appears to me that you can't put the clutch in backwards because it won't slide over the spindle to the transmission. Am I correct? Regardless I am going to get a new hose I just wanted to know your thoughts. Wesley Ryan Project Engineer GI Plastek Phone: 937-645-4018 Fax: 937-642-5326 Cell: 937-243-0909 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 07:59:44 2001 From: "Denapoli, James J" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 07:55:37 -0700 Subject: MG For Sale Private party car for sale. 1975 MGB 50th Anniv. Ed. Paint and interior restoration. New top, tires, exhaust system, brake master cylinder and clutch. Lots of work done to this car - just ask. 74K miles. Car is in very good condition. Yellow. Pics available. $5,000 firm. Jim in Baltimore Jim DeNapoli Baltimore, Maryland 21201 Tel. (410) 468-1020 Fax (410) 468-1075 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 08:19:39 2001 From: "Tim L. Creger" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 09:14:41 -0600 Subject: Did I buy a stolen vehicle? Dear list: I recently purchased a 1970 Midget. The engine was pretty greasy over the I.D. plate, so I didn't think anything of it at the time. Now that I've managed to get it home, cleaned it up a bit, and checked again, I find that both the engine number plate and the vehicle number plate on the inner wheel arch are missing. The car has been sitting for 10+ years in a garage of a gas station owner who took the car in trade from a local person that had a credit to pay off. He took the car after it had sat idle for a couple of years. I have the title, and so can get the VIN number off of that, but how can I get the engine number? The body I.D. plate is still intact on the left door post. I suspect that someone decided they needed the plates for another restoration, but it sure puts me in an awkward position if I try to register the car locally. Any ideas on this one? Twotims /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 09:05:11 2001 From: "Doug" To: "MG" Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 08:01:18 -0800 Subject: '64/65 MGB I have an early '65 MGB that's disassembled and in boxes all over my garage. I can't see that this is a project that I will be able to finish and have decided it's got to go. $400 takes it all. Car is in Gig Harbor, WA + 5 wire wheels, metal dash, pull handles, good glass, good floor, almost new carpet set, gas tank sealed. - Sills OK but covers aren't. Dog legs/lower panels should be replaced. Engine is unknown vintage. Clear title in hand, but no id plate on engine or body. Email for pictures or more info /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 09:30:44 2001 From: To: "Tim L. Creger" , Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 16:25:26 -0000 Subject: Re: Did I buy a stolen vehicle? BMIHT can tell you what the *original* engine number was, plus other information, if you give them the chassis number. Details at http://www.heritage.org.uk/archive/trace%20certificate.htm The number on the left door post, if it were an MGB, would also be the chassis number on a printed and stamped plate, I'd be surprised if the Midget were different. The body number is usually just a number on a body-coloured strip. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim L. Creger" To: Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 3:14 PM Subject: Did I buy a stolen vehicle? > I have the title, and so can get the VIN number off of that, but how can > I get the engine number? The body I.D. plate is still intact on the > left door post. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 09:34:52 2001 From: "Dave Wood" To: "mgs" Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 08:31:22 -0800 Subject: Re: Epa limits Mike, In Oregon, there are a couple of rules depending on where you live. In the Portland metro area all vehicles from 1975 and newer must be tested. In the Medford (Rouge river valley) area, vehicles newer than 20 years must be tested. The rest of the state doesn't have smog problems so no testing is required. I quit worrying about it when my MG finally turned 20 as that was the rule in the Portland area at the time. The cost has gone from about $7 every other year to $21 for the new testing. They use a rolling road type test under varying conditions on the newer cars. I bought a 99 Ford pickup this year and it just hooked up to a computer and no other measurements were required. Still cost $21 same as the rolling road test. In my opinion this is a political option rather than an air quality option. According to my brother-in-law who is an air quality chemist and retired from the Department of Environmental Quality this past year after working there for about 40 years, the cost in air pollution to build a new car far exceeds the air pollution caused by an old car throughout it's remaining life. In other words the political directive is to try to get people to buy new cars for the economy rather than decrease air pollution to any appreciable amount. In my personal opinion it is a colossal pain in the ass to take time off work (or play) every other year to get your vehicle tested. They don't give a damn about the safety issues such as whether your brakes are worn out or your head lights and windshield wipers work, they just care about getting their extra $21 for each car being registered or reregistered every other year. When I lived in Virginia in the late 50's we went to a local garage and had a safety inspection before you could register your car. I don't recall how often that was as I was a teenager at the time and always needed something on my car fixed before I could pass the tests. That makes more sense to me, although it would cost more now than the fee attached to air quality testing that we have in Oregon. The real problem is that once you start a program like this it evolves into some kind of a monster that no longer makes sense. These tests do get some old smokers off the road, but most of the time, they can be jury rigged to pass the tests. The older carbureted cars are made to barely run to pass the test and then retuned to run properly. I used to do it with my 72 MG although I didn't usually have much trouble passing. Now all my pollution crap has been removed and my 72 runs like it should have run when it was new. Sorry to get long-winded on this but it is a pet peeve with me. Dave 72 B I'm in the need of finding out the limits for EPA testing in other states. In Illinois we are trying to limit testing to 20 years. I know CAL is 23years and I think Washington is 20years. Any info on the limits is needed for the legislature. Mike Olsen /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 09:55:29 2001 From: Eddie Sheffield To: "Dave Wood" , "mgs" Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 11:51:15 -0500 Subject: Re: Epa limits On Monday 17 December 2001 11:31 am, Dave Wood wrote: > When I lived in Virginia in the late 50's we went to a local > garage and had a safety inspection before you could register your car. I > don't recall how often that was as I was a teenager at the time and always > needed something on my car fixed before I could pass the tests. That makes > more sense to me, although it would cost more now than the fee attached to > air quality testing that we have in Oregon. Just curious, what part of VA were you in? I wasn't around in the 50's, but I know in the 70's the safety inspection was every 6 months, and at some point it was upped to every year. Cost is $10 now. I have to admit the quality of the inspection varies. I'm originally from southwest VA and If you took (well, even today) your car to one of the "good ol' boys" for the inspection it may amount to "turn on your lights, turn on your wipers, honk the horn - you pass". Heck, I even knew a guy who ran a junkyard/garage (using the term loosely) where you could just go by, tell him the VIN and tag numbers, and he'd sell you the sticker - never even looked at the car. He did get caught though. My dad always did his own "inspection" before taking it in anyway, so he usually caught any problems before taking it in and that they probably wouldn't have found anyway. Just had the Midget done a month ago. Passed no problem, but when I got home with it I found out one of the backup lights wasn't working - the plug had come loose from the housing. Either they didn't catch it or something in the trunk shifted and knocked it loose when they took it out of the garage. Eddie 1971 Midget - "Bebop" /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 10:01:11 2001 From: To: "Ryan, Wesley" , Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 16:47:35 -0000 Subject: Re: The famous Clutch!!! Unless she is not one to be tangled with it probably just gave way. When they break up inside you can get flaps that act like valves and these can make the pedal hard. When I replaced my clutch hydraulics I used the pedal to empty the m/c to make sure clean fluid was coming through the pipe, then refilled the system using a Gunsons Eezi-Bleed on very low pressure from the *slave* bleed nipple. That refilled the system in a few seconds, and it didn't need bleeding at all. You are looking for about 1/2" travel at the slave piston. If you haven't replaced the slave cylinder you should. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan, Wesley" To: "'Dan DiBiase'" ; "Jerry Causey" ; "MG Mailing List" Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 1:39 PM Subject: The famous Clutch!!! > Ok Ok I know I have been working on my clutch now for weeks and still can't > get it to work right. I bled the clutch over the weekend and while my wife > pushed the petal in; the rubber hose started to spray fluid. she also > mentioned that the petal was getting tough to push. Does this sound like the > hose is bad or can it be something worse that caused the hose to break. It > appears to me that you can't put the clutch in backwards because it won't > slide over the spindle to the transmission. Am I correct? Regardless I am > going to get a new hose I just wanted to know your thoughts. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 10:01:09 2001 From: To: "Matthew Trebelhorn" , Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 16:36:11 -0000 Subject: Re: Tachometer reading 800-1000 RPM too high Does it do it from cold or with the lights off? In the dry? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matthew Trebelhorn" To: Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 1:44 PM Subject: Tachometer reading 800-1000 RPM too high > This weekend I did a little electrical work -- replaced a battery clamp, fuel tank sender, secured the ground to the speedometer, and installed halogen dash lights from Jeff Zorn. Beautiful all around. > > So this morning I came to work -- about 30 miles, with rain getting heavier the whole way. About 5 miles from work, the tachometer started reading high -- showing 4500 rpm at 60-ish mph. When I stopped at a light and let the car idle, it showed 1500 rpm. > > The car is a '70 B roadster. > > Any ideas as to what might cause this? Is it a problem with the heat generated by the halogen bulbs in combination with my heater/demister? Is it a problem with water getting into the instruments? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 10:36:06 2001 From: matttrebelhorn@netscape.net (Matthew Trebelhorn) To: paul.hunt1@virgin.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 12:33:40 -0500 Subject: RE: Re: Tachometer reading 800-1000 RPM too high wrote: >Does it do it from cold or with the lights off? In the dry? I've only seen it once -- this morning. Turning the lights off (in the parking garage at work) did not make it stop. It did not do it at startup this AM. When I leave tonight I'll watch it and see what happens... Matt -- __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 11:02:57 2001 From: "Eric J Russell" To: Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 13:10:08 -0500 Subject: re: heater valve question (cable lube) The MG heater valve is not a great design... In my MGA, I would adjust the cable twice a year. In the spring, I'd adjust it so I could either shut off the heat (for the pending North America summer) or get a little heat (for the remainder of the spring). Then in the fall, I'd adjust it to allow full heat (such as it is...) or less. I have read that it is possible to rebuild the heater valve to allow a greater flow of hot coolant at 'full open'. I have not done such a modification myself (yet). I can offer some advice re: lubing cables. Ask at a motorcycle shop for a cable lube tool. One type I am familiar with consists of a small fitting that clamps over the end of the cable sheath. Cable lube is then forced under pressure from a spray can with the 'straw' attachment. Cables can thus be lubed in place. Here is a link to view the item: http://www.denniskirk.com/powervendor/details/detail.asp?serverid=nlStreet&P artNo=28910&ProdType=14&SubProdType=lube&Name=Cable+Luber& BTW, WD-40 is not considered a great long term lubricant. Eric USA - NC ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:40:08 -0500 (EST) > From: Bill Saidel > Subject: heater valve question > > Happy holidays all, > My other question is how do I lubricate the cable while connected at both > ends and within the cable jacket? > > Bill > '76B > NJ - US (curious to know where we're from) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 11:41:42 2001 From: "Warmuth Brian L " To: Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 13:41:06 -0500 Subject: The famous Clutch It is possible if you rebuilt the clutch master cyl. that you mistakenly put in the non-return valve rubber from the brake cyl. in the bottom of the clutch master cyl. bore thereby building pressure in the slave cyl until hose breakage.....also, the pedal would get reaaallly hard too! Just a thought.....I've seen it happen. BrianW. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 12:14:02 2001 From: Robert Guinness To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 13:14:32 -0600 Subject: SU Meidel (Australia) Jim: Check the spridget@autox.team.net archives. Within the last 20 days or so, someone spoke highly of the SU carbs they got at Meidel. I have no personal experience with them, however. Good luck and G'day Robert Guinness 77 MGB Roadster 75 Midget /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 14:36:18 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 08:05:10 +1030 Subject: Re: SU Meidel (Australia) Robert Guinness wrote: > > Check the spridget@autox.team.net archives. Within the last 20 days or > so, someone spoke highly of the SU carbs they got at Meidel. I have no > personal experience with them, however. Good luck and G'day > Sorry, I should have spoken up sooner. Lovely guys and reliable to boot. Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 14:41:32 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 08:10:44 +1030 Subject: Re: MG For Sale "Denapoli, James J" wrote: > > Private party car for sale. > > 1975 MGB 50th Anniv. Ed. Paint and interior restoration. You can't have much of a party in a 'B unless you only have one friend. Then again... I party by myself in my 'B so I guess that is what was meant by 'private' party? -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 14:48:15 2001 From: "James Laukaitis" To: mgdigest@us.ibm.com Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 16:47:28 -0500 Subject: Re: Which tire for my MG? Ah tires, Actually I just put Yokohama Avid H4's (185/70 R14) on my stock wires. After much hemming and hawing, and finally making a decision based on feedback from everybody here and the advice from TireRack. They are great tires as far as I can tell, I haven't done a lot of travel on them though, but what I have done they gripped well and no rubbing. I also put brand new bands and tubes in. Also after the local tire shop balked at putting them on. I did it myself (man, am I gonna get a lot of comments on THAT statement). Just like putting on a bicycle tire (thats gonna come back and sting me too). What is nice is that I decided to do a bolt on conversion, so I can use those tires again, because they are actually tubeless. Cheers! I am on digest mode so all the comments to the statements made above might take a while for replies. Jim L 1967 MGB-GT email: jim5@us.ibm.com karma - n. - the force produced by a person's actions in one of their lives which influences what happens to them in their future lives /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 15:06:34 2001 From: "Neil Cotty" To: Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 22:05:10 -0000 Subject: RE: SU Meidel (Australia) Highly recommend them as well. They did my carbs on my A - take a look: http://www.apphosting.com/mgstuff/A/carb_pair.JPG Cheers, Neil 74 V8 / 61 A /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 16:52:48 2001 From: Chad Cooper To: "Ryan, Wesley" , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 17:52:01 -0800 Subject: Re: The famous Clutch!!! You definitely can put the clutch in backwards. It should be marked as to which side goes toward the flywheel. It is stamped "flywheel" on one side. If it is not in backwards I would be a bit concerned as to why it wouldn't go on the other way because it should slide freely on the input shaft, whichever way you have it faced. What I am getting at, is that whatever kept you from putting it on the other way may be what is causing the hard to press problem. Hope this helps... Chad '72 B Ryan, Wesley wrote: > The hose to the slave is the one that blew out. I have another one coming > however, I just wanted to know some of your thoughts on why it blew and why > the petal was difficult to push in. > > Wesley Ryan > Project Engineer > GI Plastek > Phone: 937-645-4018 > Fax: 937-642-5326 > Cell: 937-243-0909 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 17:12:29 2001 From: Jim DeNapoli To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 19:11:34 -0500 Subject: 1975 MGB I have a 1975 MGB for sale if anyone is interested. My ad on the MG site is as follows: 1975 MGB 50th Anniv. Ed. Paint and interior restoration. New top, tires, exhaust system, brake master cylinder and clutch. Lots of work done to this car - just ask. 74K miles. Car is in very good condition. Yellow. Pics available. $5,000 firm. Jim in Baltimore (410) 468-1020. james.j.denapoli@lmco.com . * /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 20:19:32 2001 From: "N" To: "MG Digest" Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 22:17:11 -0500 Subject: Which tire for my MG? I've been using Dunlop D40A2's on my '66 for the last 3 years. They have been excellent in all weather - sticky in dry & wet with good traction in snow. Yes, I drive in snow here in Connecticut with my MGB. It is my daily driver. I just bought tires from Tire Rack because the Dunlops (185/65x14) were too small diameter compared to my Dunlop race tires. (22.9" vs. 25") As a result, I was bottoming out over too many bumps & driveways aprons. This is due to being lowered for racing. I bought 185/70 x 14 Yokohama Avid T4's because I use stock 4.5 inch wide 14 in. wire wheels and needed something that had a height similar to the race tires, and had at least decent handling for year-round driving. I now have snow tires on the rear, but the Avids on front. At 26 lbs. pressure, they give a nice ride, at 30 lbs., it's harsh. Drove I-95 in the rain tonight. No problems with traction at 65mph. My only objection so far is a bit of softness on "turn-in" with the lower pressure. I suspect they will not be as sticky as the old Dunlops. But, I no longer bottom out over small undulations in the pavement or on the entrance to my driveway. It's another compromise I make driving a multi-purpose car. BTW, their cost from Tire Rack was $40 each vs. $69 from my local tire shop. My Saab repair shop mounted & balanced them for $10 per tire. (The local tire shop charges $14 each.) I could have gone to 195/70's, but chose not to for a mere 0.3 inch difference in height. Section width was still less than on the race tires. Norm Sippel '66 MGB - daily driver, occasional vintage racer /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 17 22:47:54 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: Mromgbtkd@aol.com, mgs Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 23:37:06 -0600 Subject: Re: Epa limits Mike: South Dakota has no testing. I believe state law reads that all vehicles must be equipped as when manufactured. When DEALER mechanics work on a car, they are supposed to set the management system to specifications. But, I've never heard of anyone ever being taken to court for removing emissions items. I also had a 81 Datsun pickup which a poor idle. The tire and general repair shop drilled out the plug on the carb for the mixture screw and reset it not paying attention to the analyizer. AT one time in the late 70's-early 80's we had safety inspections which amounted to light adjustments and exhaust inspections. That was discontinued sometime im the mid 80's. I believe state law reads something like "All vehicles must be kept in a safe operating condition." Only if you get stopped for some other violation such as noise, broken lights, or involved in an accident due to poor vehicle safety, you MIGHT get a citation. The condition would almost have to be hazardess to get a fine. Broken headlights are usually warnings. Get it fixed in ten days, go to the police, sheriff, etc. which issued the citation, and they will write the ticket off. Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 01:27:58 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: paul.hunt1@virgin.net, wryan@giplastek.com, d_dibiase@yahoo.com, Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 03:14:37 -0500 Subject: RE: The famous Clutch!!! If the internals of the slave cylinder is not pitted, you might well get away with replacing the piston rubber and before assembling have the cylinder well polished internally. Afterwards clean the cylinder with a kind of alcohol thouroughly. I worked with me very well and this saved me quite some $$$ or Euro's.... Cheers, Hans -----Original Message----- From: paul.hunt1@virgin.net [mailto:paul.hunt1@virgin.net] Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 5:48 PM To: Ryan, Wesley; 'Dan DiBiase'; Jerry Causey; MG Mailing List Subject: Re: The famous Clutch!!! Unless she is not one to be tangled with it probably just gave way. When they break up inside you can get flaps that act like valves and these can make the pedal hard. When I replaced my clutch hydraulics I used the pedal to empty the m/c to make sure clean fluid was coming through the pipe, then refilled the system using a Gunsons Eezi-Bleed on very low pressure from the *slave* bleed nipple. That refilled the system in a few seconds, and it didn't need bleeding at all. You are looking for about 1/2" travel at the slave piston. If you haven't replaced the slave cylinder you should. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan, Wesley" To: "'Dan DiBiase'" ; "Jerry Causey" ; "MG Mailing List" Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 1:39 PM Subject: The famous Clutch!!! > Ok Ok I know I have been working on my clutch now for weeks and still can't > get it to work right. I bled the clutch over the weekend and while my wife > pushed the petal in; the rubber hose started to spray fluid. she also > mentioned that the petal was getting tough to push. Does this sound like the > hose is bad or can it be something worse that caused the hose to break. It > appears to me that you can't put the clutch in backwards because it won't > slide over the spindle to the transmission. Am I correct? Regardless I am > going to get a new hose I just wanted to know your thoughts. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 05:52:44 2001 From: "Ryan, Wesley" To: "'Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com'" , paul.hunt1@virgin.net, Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 07:47:50 -0500 Subject: RE: The famous Clutch!!! I have replaces the slave cylinder and master cylinder with new ones. I will let you all know when i receive the new hose if that was the problem or if I put the clutch disc in backwards. I am almost positive that the clutch disc only went in one way though. Has anyone experienced this. I have a 76MGB. Wesley Ryan Project Engineer GI Plastek Phone: 937-645-4018 Fax: 937-642-5326 Cell: 937-243-0909 -----Original Message----- From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com [mailto:Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com] Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 3:15 AM To: paul.hunt1@virgin.net; wryan@giplastek.com; d_dibiase@yahoo.com; jcausey@whidbey.com; mgs@autox.team.net Subject: RE: The famous Clutch!!! If the internals of the slave cylinder is not pitted, you might well get away with replacing the piston rubber and before assembling have the cylinder well polished internally. Afterwards clean the cylinder with a kind of alcohol thouroughly. I worked with me very well and this saved me quite some $$$ or Euro's.... Cheers, Hans -----Original Message----- From: paul.hunt1@virgin.net [mailto:paul.hunt1@virgin.net] Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 5:48 PM To: Ryan, Wesley; 'Dan DiBiase'; Jerry Causey; MG Mailing List Subject: Re: The famous Clutch!!! Unless she is not one to be tangled with it probably just gave way. When they break up inside you can get flaps that act like valves and these can make the pedal hard. When I replaced my clutch hydraulics I used the pedal to empty the m/c to make sure clean fluid was coming through the pipe, then refilled the system using a Gunsons Eezi-Bleed on very low pressure from the *slave* bleed nipple. That refilled the system in a few seconds, and it didn't need bleeding at all. You are looking for about 1/2" travel at the slave piston. If you haven't replaced the slave cylinder you should. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan, Wesley" To: "'Dan DiBiase'" ; "Jerry Causey" ; "MG Mailing List" Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 1:39 PM Subject: The famous Clutch!!! > Ok Ok I know I have been working on my clutch now for weeks and still can't > get it to work right. I bled the clutch over the weekend and while my wife > pushed the petal in; the rubber hose started to spray fluid. she also > mentioned that the petal was getting tough to push. Does this sound like the > hose is bad or can it be something worse that caused the hose to break. It > appears to me that you can't put the clutch in backwards because it won't > slide over the spindle to the transmission. Am I correct? Regardless I am > going to get a new hose I just wanted to know your thoughts. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 06:14:57 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: wryan@giplastek.com, Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com, paul.hunt1@virgin.net, Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 08:09:49 -0500 Subject: RE: The famous Clutch!!! Beware the metal tubing may have a block somewhere still. This can be either a block by non-fluid particals or if the tube somewhere has been bent causing the tube to have a knik. This will stop the fluid passing easily and create a hard pedal. As the flex hose is lose anyway, try to test the easy flow through the tubes first. Cheers, Hans -----Original Message----- From: Ryan, Wesley [mailto:wryan@giplastek.com] Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 1:48 PM To: 'Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com'; paul.hunt1@virgin.net; Ryan, Wesley; d_dibiase@yahoo.com; jcausey@whidbey.com; mgs@autox.team.net Subject: RE: The famous Clutch!!! I have replaces the slave cylinder and master cylinder with new ones. I will let you all know when i receive the new hose if that was the problem or if I put the clutch disc in backwards. I am almost positive that the clutch disc only went in one way though. Has anyone experienced this. I have a 76MGB. Wesley Ryan Project Engineer GI Plastek Phone: 937-645-4018 Fax: 937-642-5326 Cell: 937-243-0909 -----Original Message----- From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com [ mailto:Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com ] Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 3:15 AM To: paul.hunt1@virgin.net; wryan@giplastek.com; d_dibiase@yahoo.com; jcausey@whidbey.com; mgs@autox.team.net Subject: RE: The famous Clutch!!! If the internals of the slave cylinder is not pitted, you might well get away with replacing the piston rubber and before assembling have the cylinder well polished internally. Afterwards clean the cylinder with a kind of alcohol thouroughly. I worked with me very well and this saved me quite some $$$ or Euro's.... Cheers, Hans -----Original Message----- From: paul.hunt1@virgin.net [ mailto:paul.hunt1@virgin.net ] Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 5:48 PM To: Ryan, Wesley; 'Dan DiBiase'; Jerry Causey; MG Mailing List Subject: Re: The famous Clutch!!! Unless she is not one to be tangled with it probably just gave way. When they break up inside you can get flaps that act like valves and these can make the pedal hard. When I replaced my clutch hydraulics I used the pedal to empty the m/c to make sure clean fluid was coming through the pipe, then refilled the system using a Gunsons Eezi-Bleed on very low pressure from the *slave* bleed nipple. That refilled the system in a few seconds, and it didn't need bleeding at all. You are looking for about 1/2" travel at the slave piston. If you haven't replaced the slave cylinder you should. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan, Wesley" To: "'Dan DiBiase'" ; "Jerry Causey" ; "MG Mailing List" Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 1:39 PM Subject: The famous Clutch!!! > Ok Ok I know I have been working on my clutch now for weeks and still can't > get it to work right. I bled the clutch over the weekend and while my wife > pushed the petal in; the rubber hose started to spray fluid. she also > mentioned that the petal was getting tough to push. Does this sound like the > hose is bad or can it be something worse that caused the hose to break. It > appears to me that you can't put the clutch in backwards because it won't > slide over the spindle to the transmission. Am I correct? Regardless I am > going to get a new hose I just wanted to know your thoughts. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 06:35:38 2001 From: matttrebelhorn@netscape.net (Matthew Trebelhorn) To: mgs@autox.team.net ("MG Digest") Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 08:35:04 -0500 Subject: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! Yesterday morning, in the rain, toward the end of my commute, my '70 B's tach was running 800-1000 RPM high. Last night, in virtually identical conditions (Roughly 60 degrees farenheit, heavy rain, heater/demister on (and making the interior very warm, but dry.)), it ran as much as 2000 rpm high -- 5000 rpm @ 50 mph. This morning, with the temperature in the low 40s, and no rain, the tach was fine until I got in to the parking garage at work, where it showed about 500 rpm too high at idle. And, when I think about it, I may have seen this once before -- crossing west Kansas on the interstate July 4th weekend 5-1/2 years ago. 105 in the shade, blistering sun, and sustained 80 mph. So I'm guessing now that this is heat-, not rain-, related. Last spring, I put in an MGOC heater core, motor, and fan, as well as a version of the Bob Muenchausen's heater valve. http://hometown.aol.com/akamrmg/index.html That combo makes the heater pretty effective -- but now it seems that, along with the halogen instrument bulbs, it makes the tach run hot, and show excessive revs. What, exactly, is going on with the tach? Is this something that can be fixed? I don't want to have to go back to cold and darkness... Matt -- __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 07:01:21 2001 From: Bill Saidel To: Rick Brown Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 08:57:22 -0500 Subject: Re: HELP, odometer freaked out at 100K Is this normal behavior (the driver...not the tach!)? When my '88 Caravan went over 123,456, I stopped in the middle of a county road and shot an entire roll of film. Horns blaring, people staring, and my daughter laughing hysterically at me. Am now waiting for it to turn over 200,000 (next year) before I begin to contemplate the Caravan's demise. On the other hand my B is stuck at 56k so there is no 'milestone' to come for a bit. Best, Bill 76B At 06:08 PM 04/03/2001 -0400, you wrote: >The same thing happened to a friend of mine last summer while I was a passenger >in the car - I grabbed my camera to catch the turn over to 100,000 but the >numbers stopped at 99999. The problem cleared up a few days later by itself - >they just started to change as normal. > >Rick > >Pointparty@aol.com wrote: > >> Just turned 100,000 miles on our 71 MGB GT. At the change from 99,999 the >> odometer quit working. Now the "window" shows parts of all the 9's and parts >> of the 0's. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 07:16:55 2001 From: "Rick Lindsay" To: "Bill Saidel" , Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 08:21:58 -0600 Subject: Re: HELP, odometer freaked out at 100K > On the other hand my B is stuck at 56k so there is no 'milestone' to come > for a bit. ...not for another 789 miles! rick /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 09:16:17 2001 From: To: , "Don DiRienzo" Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 15:49:27 -0000 Subject: Watch out ... ... possible virus about. I received this (not off the list of course) with a .BAT file attached. Needless to say delete it without running it. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don DiRienzo" Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 8:35 PM Subject: Finally, the CD will be ejected. > Image File > XE "Image file:step by step" Processing of an image file consists of two independent steps. In the first step, the image file is created and saved as a file instead of being written immediately onto a CD. In the second step, this image file is written onto a CD. > Creating the Image File > XE "Image file:create" Select Image Recorder from the CD-RECORDER> Choose Recorder menu and confirm your selection by clicking on OK. > Create a CD-ROM or an audio compilation as described above in Points 1 through 4. > > Open the Write dialog. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 09:22:53 2001 From: To: "Matthew Trebelhorn" , Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 16:19:23 -0000 Subject: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! Unless you have a significant air leak I wouldn't expect it to be caused by the heater, unless you drive in (and can get) internal temps of 105. And I am sure that it would have cropped up before if it was solely the halogen bulb. It could be that you have a marginal transistor in your tach (they *are* heat sensitive, I used one as a temp gauge sender many years ago). You could try a journey with the heater off, with the panel lights turned down, and a substitute tach if you get hold of one. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matthew Trebelhorn" To: ""MG Digest"" Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 1:35 PM Subject: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! > So I'm guessing now that this is heat-, not rain-, related. Last spring, I put in an MGOC heater core, motor, and fan, as well as a version of the Bob Muenchausen's heater valve. http://hometown.aol.com/akamrmg/index.html > > That combo makes the heater pretty effective -- but now it seems that, along with the halogen instrument bulbs, it makes the tach run hot, and show excessive revs. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 10:16:52 2001 From: Bill Dudley To: Bill Saidel Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 10:14:53 -0700 Subject: Re: HELP, odometer freaked out at 100K Bill Saidel wrote: > Is this normal behavior (the driver...not the tach!)? When my '88 Caravan > went over 123,456, I stopped in the middle of a county road and shot an > entire roll of film. Horns blaring, people staring, and my daughter > laughing hysterically at me. > I have pictures of my odometer on my 67 B turning 49999 and 50000 taken a couple of years ago on the MGCC RMC trip to the Grand Canyon. Since I didn't want to stop the whole caravan of MG's, I took the pictures while I was driving. Fortunately the camera was auto focus -- but still not a recommended procedure. Bill Dudley 67 MGB Original Owner 74 1/2 MGB GtT V8 Project /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 10:33:39 2001 From: matttrebelhorn@netscape.net (Matthew Trebelhorn) To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:32:24 -0500 Subject: RE: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! wrote: >Unless you have a significant air leak I wouldn't expect it to be caused by >the heater, unless you drive in (and can get) internal temps of 105. And I >am sure that it would have cropped up before if it was solely the halogen >bulb. It could be that you have a marginal transistor in your tach (they >*are* heat sensitive, I used one as a temp gauge sender many years ago). >You could try a journey with the heater off, with the panel lights turned >down, and a substitute tach if you get hold of one. Any idea how to track it down, if it is in fact a bad (okay, marginal) transistor? It's been a few years since I've had the case open on one of these tachs. How complicated are they? The tach is not getting all that hot -- on the warm side, but not uncomfortable to touch. Matt -- __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 10:37:20 2001 From: "O'CONNORS, CHARLIE" To: "'Bill Dudley'" , MGS List Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:29:58 -0500 Subject: RE: MG Icons My suggestion would be to cruise the many web sites on the internet that are MG related and if you find an icon you like, copy it. If someone doesn't want you to have a copy of their icon, image file, etc. they should protect it from being copied. Charlie O'Connors Tallahassee, Florida 2 '71 MGB/GTs 1 '59 AH Bugeye -----Original Message----- From: Bill Dudley [mailto:wdudley4@attbi.com] Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 12:21 PM To: MGS List Subject: MG Icons I am one of the webmasters for the MGCC Rocky Mountain Centre web page(MGCC.org). I am looking for MG related icons to use on our web page. Does anyone have a source for suitable icons that I could get permission to use? Thanks, Bill Dudley 67 MGB Original Owner 74 1/2 MGB GT V8 Project /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 10:22:59 2001 From: Bill Dudley To: MGS List Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 10:21:07 -0700 Subject: MG Icons I am one of the webmasters for the MGCC Rocky Mountain Centre web page(MGCC.org). I am looking for MG related icons to use on our web page. Does anyone have a source for suitable icons that I could get permission to use? Thanks, Bill Dudley 67 MGB Original Owner 74 1/2 MGB GT V8 Project /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 10:45:25 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: Bill Dudley Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 10:52:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: MG Icons www.team.net has some stuff. go to: ftp://ftp.team.net/mgs and poke around a bit... Everything is old, cera '96, but there... On Tue, 18 Dec 2001, Bill Dudley wrote: > I am one of the webmasters for the MGCC Rocky Mountain Centre web > page(MGCC.org). I am looking for MG related icons to use on our web > page. Does anyone have a source for suitable icons that I could get > permission to use? > > Thanks, > > Bill Dudley > 67 MGB Original Owner > 74 1/2 MGB GT V8 Project /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 10:47:57 2001 From: David Littlefield To: wdudley4@attbi.com Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 11:41:37 -0600 Subject: Re: MG Icons On Tue, 18 Dec 2001 10:21:07 -0700 Bill Dudley writes: > I am one of the webmasters for the MGCC Rocky Mountain Centre web > page(MGCC.org). I am looking for MG related icons to use on our > web > page. Does anyone have a source for suitable icons that I could > get > permission to use? > > Thanks Here are some: http://web2.airmail.net/wkube/MG_Art.htm David Littlefield '62 MGA MkII '51 MGTD '74 MG Midget vintage racer '88 Jaguar XJ-S ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 10:52:07 2001 From: Skye Poier To: MG Nuts Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 09:50:46 -0800 Subject: Re: SU Meidel (Australia) Word on the street is that Neil Cotty said: > Highly recommend them as well. They did my carbs on my A - take a look: > http://www.apphosting.com/mgstuff/A/carb_pair.JPG Augghhh!! I'm blind!! I'm blind!!! Skye 66 B -- 1966 MGB - GHN3L Safety Fast! __,__\__ The MGB Experience www.mgbexperience.com (_o____o_) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 10:52:28 2001 From: "Kai M. Radicke" To: "O'CONNORS, CHARLIE" , Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 13:09:02 -0500 Subject: Re: MG Icons STEALING > My suggestion would be to cruise the many web sites on the internet > that are MG related and if you find an icon you like, copy it. If > someone doesn't want you to have a copy of their icon, image file, > etc. they should protect it from being copied. > > Charlie O'Connors No, DO NOT just go copy any image you want from any website. That mentality really upsets me. It isn't far from saying if you don't want to be plagiarized, then don't publish a book! How absurd. How do you propose to "protect" the image from being copied? You of course can, through JavaScript, restrict someone from doing a right click of the mouse button to do a Save As..., however you can not protect against someone who goes and views the source and copies the image location and then saves the image. Wayne Kube's website has a MG clip art gallery, with many icons, and he specifically states you may use the images on your website. http://web2.iadfw.net/wkube/MG_Art.htm Just don't go stealing other people's work without their authorization... Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 11:12:47 2001 From: "All The Facts Investigations" To: Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:11:53 -0600 Subject: Tires for 68 MGB Ok...now that we have been trough tires for a GT...what about tires for a 68 MGB? I want good handling and nice ride? Any ideas? Thanks, John Shidler My 1968 MGB MkII lives with me in Bossier City, Louisiana. Her name is Abbie. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 11:20:21 2001 From: Tab Julius To: MGS List Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 13:19:19 -0500 Subject: RE: MG Icons Oh, really? Can I just go to your house and take whatever I find, either inside or in your yard? Or perhaps the house of one of your relatives? After all, if you don't want me to have whatever your possessions are, you should protect them from being taken. Otherwise I guess it's reasonable to assume they're fair game, yes? At 12:29 PM 12/18/01 -0500, O'CONNORS, CHARLIE wrote: >My suggestion would be to cruise the many web sites on the internet that are >MG related and if you find an icon you like, copy it. If someone doesn't >want you to have a copy of their icon, image file, etc. they should protect >it from being copied. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 11:33:44 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: Tab Julius Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 11:40:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: RE: MG Icons While, I don't whole heartedly agree with Charlie; your example is flawed. If you take my relative, you didn't leave it behind for me to use as well with no diminished value. There really is no good comparison here. The person puts the image on the internet allowing unlimited copies. (while it is displayed on your monitor it is a copy. Then it will be stored in your browser's cache and in all of the caches inbetween, there are copies everywhere.) A person is actually copying an authorized copy that is potentially multiple steps away from the original. That is very different from removing something from your yard or a relative. You can argue rights, probably with some degree of sucess; but by posting it on the interenet, you have ALREADY allowed many copies to be made and stored everywhere by people who might not even want to have a copy. But for people who want to both ways, there are free images without strings attached. On Tue, 18 Dec 2001, Tab Julius wrote: > Oh, really? Can I just go to your house and take whatever I find, either > inside or in your yard? Or perhaps the house of one of your > relatives? After all, if you don't want me to have whatever your > possessions are, you should protect them from being taken. Otherwise I > guess it's reasonable to assume they're fair game, yes? > > > > At 12:29 PM 12/18/01 -0500, O'CONNORS, CHARLIE wrote: > >My suggestion would be to cruise the many web sites on the internet that are > >MG related and if you find an icon you like, copy it. If someone doesn't > >want you to have a copy of their icon, image file, etc. they should protect > >it from being copied. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 11:47:35 2001 From: "O'CONNORS, CHARLIE" To: MGS List Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 13:40:10 -0500 Subject: RE: MG Icons I really didn't know that this was such a sensitive area. My response was part in jest because as someone who dabbles a bit in web site development, I can assure you that thousands of images are grabbed off of web sites everyday and used elsewhere on the internet. It's happened to me quite often. There is some good information at http://scilib.ucsd.edu/howto/guides/CopyrightTips.html#explanation regarding copyright laws as they pertain to web graphics. If there is something I don't want people to copy I will add javascript to the page that will block the right click button (like locking your door or fencing your yard to keep intruders out). I will also place a copyright notice on the bottom of the page stating that the contents of the page are copyrighted. (i.e., This site is Copyright ) 2001, xxx Background Copyright ) 2001 xxx Not for Distribution). But that's not guaranteed to keep people from "stealing" your icon if they really want it. -----Original Message----- From: Tab Julius [mailto:tab@penworks.com] Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 1:19 PM To: MGS List Subject: RE: MG Icons Oh, really? Can I just go to your house and take whatever I find, either inside or in your yard? Or perhaps the house of one of your relatives? After all, if you don't want me to have whatever your possessions are, you should protect them from being taken. Otherwise I guess it's reasonable to assume they're fair game, yes? At 12:29 PM 12/18/01 -0500, O'CONNORS, CHARLIE wrote: >My suggestion would be to cruise the many web sites on the internet that are >MG related and if you find an icon you like, copy it. If someone doesn't >want you to have a copy of their icon, image file, etc. they should protect >it from being copied. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 11:57:45 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: wdudley4@attbi.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 13:53:35 -0500 Subject: RE: MG Icons For those who hate the sandclock on the PC, I have a rotating MG logo available. You can of course have that on the website as well as a nice give away. Cheers, Hans '71 BGT -----Original Message----- From: Bill Dudley [mailto:wdudley4@attbi.com] Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 6:21 PM To: MGS List Subject: MG Icons I am one of the webmasters for the MGCC Rocky Mountain Centre web page(MGCC.org). I am looking for MG related icons to use on our web page. Does anyone have a source for suitable icons that I could get permission to use? Thanks, Bill Dudley 67 MGB Original Owner 74 1/2 MGB GT V8 Project /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 12:25:01 2001 From: Tab Julius To: "Andrew B. Lundgren" Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 14:23:24 -0500 Subject: RE: MG Icons Yes, I know it's not a good comparison as regards property, but the inappropriateness of "if you don't want anyone to take it you should protect it" still applies to either. Actually because it doesn't translate to the real property analogy, is what has made software pirating so hard to make an impact on the courts (same as hacking to steal source code). It's not like the owner doesn't still have their property. At any rate, this is an MG list, not a copyright discussion list so I won't get into it here. FWIW, my ex-wife, who breeds dogs, found pictures of her puppies on someone ELSE's site. Not just were they pictures of the puppies, but the other person's site was in the breeding business too. In other words, to advertise THEIR puppies, they used pictures of puppies from OUR site. To make matters worse, their site was festooned with warnings about everyone on the site being copyrighted and not to take any work without permission. The irony was a little too much, but the best part was when I discovered that they did not actually COPY the pictures to their site - I guess they knew that to copy the files to their server would be stealing, but they chose the unusual step of simply LINKING to our photos off of our server (why they couldn't just take pictures of their own damned dogs I don't know). At any rate, once I figured out they were linking to our pictures and hadn't just copied them, it immediately occurred to me that I had the power to replace the photos with whatever I wanted - since they were coming off of our server. Various ideas came to mind (notice from the health department? dirty pictures?) but I settled for something much more satisfying and subtle - I was able to find some pictures of sick dogs (mange, etc.), public domain stuff, and replaced our puppy pictures with the pictures of the mangy mutts (we didn't use those puppy photos ourselves on the site anymore anyway). Last I looked, their site was still proclaiming it illegal to use their copyrighted material, their site was still selling puppies, and if you look closely at the puppy pictures themselves, you'll see they are of very undesirable animals. Probably one of my few opportunities I'll ever have to get even with someone taking material. :) - Tab /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 14:48:18 2001 From: Eric To: MGS List Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 08:14:59 +1030 Subject: Re: MG Icons Bill Dudley wrote: > > I am one of the webmasters for the MGCC Rocky Mountain Centre web > page(MGCC.org). I am looking for MG related icons to use on our web > page. Does anyone have a source for suitable icons that I could get > permission to use? > I was going to suggest Cecil Kimber... but as a living icon, maybe Ed.. Barney? ;-) -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 14:53:55 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Tab Julius , "Andrew B. Lundgren" Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 13:52:47 -0800 (PST) Subject: RE: MG Icons Hmmm, Tab, I think I would have used that picture from Car and Driver from many years ago, advertising their '10Best' issue - the one that said something like, 'if you don't send in ideas, we'll shoot this dog' - picture of a cute little terrier with a rather large gun to his head.... THAT would probably get even with them! Is there a way to tell if your site has links to other sites attached to it? ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) http://members.home.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html NAMGBR #5-2328 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 15:23:09 2001 From: "Hans J. Pedersen" To: Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 22:23:24 +1100 Subject: Re: SU Meidel (Australia) We are also happy to recommend SU Midel. Have dealt with them over many years. Hans J. Pedersen HP High Performance Products Victoria. Australia Ph. +61 3 9874 1800 http://www.hi-flow.com hans@hi-flow.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 15:41:43 2001 From: Tab Julius To: Dan DiBiase Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 17:36:56 -0500 Subject: RE: MG Icons At 01:52 PM 12/18/01 -0800, Dan DiBiase wrote: >Hmmm, Tab, I think I would have used that picture from Car and Driver from >many years ago, advertising their '10Best' issue - the one that said >something like, 'if you don't send in ideas, we'll shoot this dog' - >picture of a cute little terrier with a rather large gun to his head.... >THAT would probably get even with them! Maybe, but I didn't want to do anything overt - I wanted to see how long it'd be before anyone noticed. :) >Is there a way to tell if your site has links to other sites attached to >it? Not really, short of just looking for your site on a search engine and looking up every single reference to it. I supposed you could write a spider to look for you, but that's more than I have time free for - rather spend it driving with a top down. ;) - Tab /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 16:14:04 2001 From: Robert Sexson To: spridgets@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 15:11:36 -0800 (PST) Subject: Windshild I needd to change the seal between windshild glass and frame, on my 74 midget. I can't budge the screws on the bottom of the frame [rusty screws]. Is there anything that I need to be careful of whwn I try to drill them out? TIA R. Sexson 74.5 B 74 Midget [scatered] ______________________________________________________________________________ Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger http://messenger.excite.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 16:14:22 2001 From: MGMagnette@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 18:12:57 EST Subject: Re: MG Icons I would highly suggest stealing any MG logo you want from any website you want. Considering its a trademarked property of MG-Rover, no website except MG Rovers and those authorized have any rights to it anyway. I write "copyright blah blah" on mine too, but if you wanted to argue about it, its not my logo to copyright. I hate seeing the same images on site after site after site though. For mine, www.mgmagnette.com , I scanned old brochures. Ofcourse, that idea was stolen from an Austin Healey website. John /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 16:38:27 2001 From: Kevin Sullivan To: MGMagnette@aol.com Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 16:36:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: MG Icons On Tue, 18 Dec 2001 MGMagnette@aol.com wrote: > I would highly suggest stealing any MG logo you want from any website you > want. Considering its a trademarked property of MG-Rover, no website except > MG Rovers and those authorized have any rights to it anyway. I write > "copyright blah blah" on mine too, but if you wanted to argue about it, its > not my logo to copyright. That is extremely cute. I heard that MG-Rover, or whatever they are calling themselves now, is going to hire Lars Ulrich as a consultant to sue everyone who is using their copyrighted material without permission. We probably shouldn't even be able to type the letters 'M' and 'G' adjacent to each other or send out email talking about our "MG"s. -- Kevin Sullivan kevins@khoral.com Khoral Research Inc. Albuquerque NM USA 1968 Dodge W-200 Crewcab "PW" www.khoral.com/staff/kevins/dodge 1960 MGA "Baby" www.khoral.com/staff/kevins/mgstuff 1959 Magnette ZB "P2" /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 16:52:41 2001 From: "Rick Brown" To: "Tab Julius" Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 18:51:26 -0500 Subject: Re: MG Icons ROTFLMAO - Great story Tab - now whats the url so we can go look at these mangy dogs? Rick --------- http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil ---------- http://members.home.net/brown409 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tab Julius" To: "Andrew B. Lundgren" Cc: "MGS List" Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 2:23 PM Subject: RE: MG Icons > > Various ideas came to mind (notice from the health department? dirty > pictures?) but I settled for something much more satisfying and subtle - I > was able to find some pictures of sick dogs (mange, etc.), public domain > stuff, and replaced our puppy pictures with the pictures of the mangy mutts > (we didn't use those puppy photos ourselves on the site anymore anyway). > > Last I looked, their site was still proclaiming it illegal to use their > copyrighted material, their site was still selling puppies, and if you look > closely at the puppy pictures themselves, you'll see they are of very > undesirable animals. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 17:27:03 2001 From: Tab Julius To: "Rick Brown" Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 19:23:02 -0500 Subject: Re: MG Icons I didn't mean for this to be a list thread, but anyway... http://www.icelandicsheepdogregistry.com/puppies.htm The bottom two pictures were originally linked to some very nice puppy pictures on our site, but now go to one ugly dog and one mangy dog. FWIW, you'd be surprised how hard it is to actually find pictures of ugly dogs. I figured it'd be easy, but this was the best I can do. I think I replaced the pictures in spring. They still haven't figured out the pictures were changed. Note all the heavy-handed copyright warnings at the bottom of the page. Since supposedly they have their own puppies for sale, not sure why they felt compelled to lift our pictures. Nevertheless... Anyway, back to MGs... - Tab At 06:51 PM 12/18/01 -0500, Rick Brown wrote: >ROTFLMAO - Great story Tab - now whats the url so we can go look at these >mangy dogs? > >Rick >--------- http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil >---------- http://members.home.net/brown409 >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Tab Julius" >To: "Andrew B. Lundgren" >Cc: "MGS List" >Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 2:23 PM >Subject: RE: MG Icons > > > > > > Various ideas came to mind (notice from the health department? dirty > > pictures?) but I settled for something much more satisfying and subtle - I > > was able to find some pictures of sick dogs (mange, etc.), public domain > > stuff, and replaced our puppy pictures with the pictures of the mangy >mutts > > (we didn't use those puppy photos ourselves on the site anymore anyway). > > > > Last I looked, their site was still proclaiming it illegal to use their > > copyrighted material, their site was still selling puppies, and if you >look > > closely at the puppy pictures themselves, you'll see they are of very > > undesirable animals. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 17:54:49 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: kmr@pil.net Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 19:53:33 EST Subject: Re: MG Icons STEALING ..."Just don't go stealing other people's work without their authorization" (your words) Kai, I really don't think that you should be casting such aspersions on the honesty and innocense of others I don't think the mate was planning on stealing anything. But according to you: On 12/18/01 at approximately 9:54:25 AM Pacific Standard Time, you made this rather heavy handed statement regarding what you perceived to be Bill Dudleys intent, with no malice of forethought in regards to "plagarism" (your term) only an honest and honorable open and aboveboard request posted in a public forum: (quote) >>I am one of the webmasters for the MGCC Rocky Mountain Centre web >>page(MGCC.org). I am looking for MG related icons to use on our web page. >>Does anyone have a source for suitable icons that I could get permission to use? >>Bill Dudley (unquote) Now, did you read that last sentence? Where it states unequivicably and with a firm intent "that I could get permission to use?" Now, for you to smear and besmirch another MG owner or any person for that matter, is surely a matter of Libel. This is a very serious and highly prejudicial allegation that you have so cavalierishly made with caluminous disregard for the sanctity of others. In other words.."You really blew it!" Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 19:53:23 2001 From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 18:47:33 -0800 Subject: Factory Hard top Hey all Got my top and made the trek though snow and heavy rain and 1200 km of driving but it is now at home atop my car. It needs new paint and seals but the hardest part is replacing the missing window. Dose anyone out there have a drivers side window and frame for a factory MGB hard top. I would realy like to get one as sand casting a new one seems like a lot of work. Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 22:28:21 2001 From: Carl W French To: Tab Julius Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 00:27:23 -0500 Subject: Re: MG Icons I have to thank you from the bottom of my heart for what was the best laugh I have had in longer than I can remember. The cat could not figure out was wrong with me and he ran off :-) Those people must be idiots, why they have not seen their own page in such a long time I cannot imagine. Carl >http://www.icelandicsheepdogregistry.com/puppies.htm > >The bottom two pictures were originally linked to some very nice puppy >pictures on our site, but now go to one ugly dog and one mangy dog. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 22:38:56 2001 From: "Kai M. Radicke" To: Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 00:55:47 -0500 Subject: Re: MG Icons STEALING I would just like to note, that my email was only a reply to Charlie O'Connors, and did not contain _anything_ from Bill Dudley's original message. I even went so far as to alter the topic, to differentiate the type of content I was writing about. Kai > ..."Just don't go stealing other people's work without their > authorization" > (your words) > Kai, > I really don't think that you should be casting such aspersions on the > honesty and innocense of others I don't think the mate was planning > on stealing anything. But according to you: On 12/18/01 at > approximately 9:54:25 AM Pacific Standard Time, you made this > rather heavy handed statement regarding what you perceived to be Bill > Dudleys intent, with no malice of forethought in regards to > "plagarism" (your term) only an honest and honorable open and > aboveboard request posted in a public forum: (quote) >>I am one of > the webmasters for the MGCC Rocky Mountain Centre web >>page > (MGCC.org). I am looking for MG related icons to use on our web > page. >>Does anyone have a source for suitable icons that I could > get permission to use? >>Bill Dudley (unquote) > Now, did you read that last sentence? Where it states unequivicably > and with a firm intent "that I could get permission to use?" Now, for > you to smear and besmirch another MG owner or any person for that > matter, is surely a matter of Libel. This is a very serious and highly > prejudicial allegation that you have so cavalierishly made with > caluminous disregard for the sanctity of others. In other words.."You > really blew it!" > Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 > XJ-6 (not running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 18 23:12:54 2001 From: "michelle pountney" To: Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 17:16:01 +1100 Subject: Re: Temps G'Day All... I was out motoring around last night and was wondering with summer coming on here (eventually!) in Australia what a "normal" temp should be for my MGB. Currently it runs at a bit above 120 F but since I've only just bought the beast I'm not sure what readings I should be getting, or indeed how accurate the sender unit is. She gets an electric fan next week so hopefully that will keep the summer blues at bay. Also are there any Melbourne, Australia owners currently on the list???? Regards Smithy (roll on summer) from Oz.... 1968 MBG Mk 1 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 02:30:39 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 19:52:45 +1030 Subject: Re: Temps michelle pountney wrote: > > G'Day All... G'day Michelle. > I was out motoring around last night and was wondering with summer coming on > here (eventually!) in Australia We have been following Perth and finally managed a few 30C temperatures at last. Let's hope it is a nice hot Xmas this year. > what a "normal" temp should be for my MGB. > Currently it runs at a bit above 120 F but since I've only just bought the > beast I'm not sure what readings I should be getting, or indeed how accurate > the sender unit is. Hmm, you got one of them fancy cars, eh? Or should I say, one of them cars with a fancy temperature guage! I have removed the engine driven fan from my car and only run an electric fan in front of the radiator. In my '68B my temperature guage sits a little below the 'N' when she is warmed up in Winter and a little above the 'N' when cruising on a hot Summer's day. Stuck in traffic, it will climb (with the electric fan running) to halfway between the 'N' and the 'white line' - but drop rapidly down again once you are in motion. There ya go... is that technical enough for you? Maybe someone can translate 'N' and degrees - I wouldn't be able to read those little marks at speed anyway so the 'N' does me fine :-) > fan next week so hopefully that will keep the summer blues at bay. > Also are there any Melbourne, Australia owners currently on the list???? > There were, but ain't heard from them for a while. I will name them if they don't come out of their own free will! -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 02:30:39 2001 From: Eric To: MGS List Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 19:42:02 +1030 Subject: Re: MG Icons Tab Julius wrote: > > I didn't mean for this to be a list thread, but anyway... > > http://www.icelandicsheepdogregistry.com/puppies.htm > > The bottom two pictures were originally linked to some very nice puppy > pictures on our site, but now go to one ugly dog and one mangy dog. > That is very good and very funny. Well done! Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 04:43:52 2001 From: To: "michelle pountney" , Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 11:30:22 -0000 Subject: Re: Temps The stat is typically 165F so I would expect this to me the minimum. ----- Original Message ----- From: "michelle pountney" To: Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 6:16 AM Subject: Re: Temps > G'Day All... > I was out motoring around last night and was wondering with summer coming on > here (eventually!) in Australia what a "normal" temp should be for my MGB. > Currently it runs at a bit above 120 F but since I've only just bought the > beast I'm not sure what readings I should be getting, or indeed how accurate > the sender unit is. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 04:43:52 2001 From: To: "Matthew Trebelhorn" , Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 11:27:44 -0000 Subject: Re: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! Mark Olsen used to have a 'tach repair' page on his Sunbeam Tiger site but I can't find it now. I think there are only a couple of transistors, the usual way to detect marginal ones is to heat them up with a hairdryer to make them fail, or use a freezer spray to 'repair' them. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matthew Trebelhorn" To: Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 5:32 PM Subject: RE: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! > Any idea how to track it down, if it is in fact a bad (okay, marginal) transistor? It's been a few years since I've had the case open on one of these tachs. How complicated are they? > > The tach is not getting all that hot -- on the warm side, but not uncomfortable to touch. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 06:23:02 2001 From: "Tuck Southworth" To: jschelli1@shaw.ca, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 08:21:45 -0500 Subject: Re: Factory Hard top Adam, Mine HT was missing the rear window when I purchased it last year. I made a template and had a replacement made from Plexiglas. I reused the old seal, which really should have been replaced. But it's weather tight and that's all that counts. Why couldn't a auto glass place use the other side window as a guide for dimensions and simply cut a new window out of clear plastic, or am I missing something. Tuck Southworth > >Hey all > Got my top and made the trek though snow and heavy rain and >1200 km of driving but it is now at home atop my car. It needs new paint >and seals but the hardest part is replacing the missing window. Dose anyone >out there have a drivers side window and frame for a factory MGB hard top. >I would realy like to get one as sand casting a new one seems like a lot of >work. >Adam Schellinck >1970 MGB Roadster _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 06:44:51 2001 From: matttrebelhorn@netscape.net (Matthew Trebelhorn) To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 08:43:53 -0500 Subject: RE: Re: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! Last night, I drove home with the heater turned off. The tach was fine. This morning, I turned the heater back on. By the time I got to work, the tach was reading 500-1000 RPM high. The next test will be with the heater on, but no dash lights. I suspect the problem will not occur -- that it needs a combination of heat from both sources. Does that mean a bad transistor in the tach? Matt -- __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 06:45:04 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: paul.hunt1@virgin.net, matttrebelhorn@netscape.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 08:41:19 -0500 Subject: RE: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! As an experienced electronics engineer I'd like to add a comment here: be careful with to much heat! It's quite easy to overheat and the damage will be severe then! Cheers, Hans -----Original Message----- From: paul.hunt1@virgin.net [mailto:paul.hunt1@virgin.net] Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 12:28 PM To: Matthew Trebelhorn; mgs@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! Mark Olsen used to have a 'tach repair' page on his Sunbeam Tiger site but I can't find it now. I think there are only a couple of transistors, the usual way to detect marginal ones is to heat them up with a hairdryer to make them fail, or use a freezer spray to 'repair' them. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matthew Trebelhorn" To: Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 5:32 PM Subject: RE: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! > Any idea how to track it down, if it is in fact a bad (okay, marginal) transistor? It's been a few years since I've had the case open on one of these tachs. How complicated are they? > > The tach is not getting all that hot -- on the warm side, but not uncomfortable to touch. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 06:50:41 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: matttrebelhorn@netscape.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 08:46:54 -0500 Subject: RE: Re: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! Check all of the bullet connector connections and don't forget the earthconnections as well! Looks my dear friend King Lucas is teasing you very well. Cheers, Hans P.S. I've got a nice T-shirt with Lucas King of Darkness printed onto it. So nice... -----Original Message----- From: matttrebelhorn@netscape.net [mailto:matttrebelhorn@netscape.net] Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 2:44 PM To: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: RE: Re: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! Last night, I drove home with the heater turned off. The tach was fine. This morning, I turned the heater back on. By the time I got to work, the tach was reading 500-1000 RPM high. The next test will be with the heater on, but no dash lights. I suspect the problem will not occur -- that it needs a combination of heat from both sources. Does that mean a bad transistor in the tach? Matt -- /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 06:53:43 2001 From: =?windows-1255?Q?=EE=F8=E8=E9=EF_=F8=E5=E2=E5=E1=E9=EF?= To: "Mg mailing list (E-mail)" Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:57:18 +0200 Subject: 3rd brake light Perhaps it is sacrelige, but I was perusing the Australian RV8 site and spotted a picture of the 3rd brake light used on that car - a small bump that fit on the rear deck just in front of the trunk/boot. To quote the site, "This addition has been beautifully executed and most people do not realise it has been added." What more could you ask for? See picture at: http://www.mgrv8.com/austrv8.html , near the bottom of the page. Anybody know where It would be possible to find a light like this for sale? (a similar product - generic or from some more 'common' automobile would probably fill the bill as well) RMartin 70 roadster Tel Aviv. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 07:11:31 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: "îøèéï_øåâåáéï" , Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 06:10:35 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: 3rd brake light R, I bet that our friend JC Whitney would offer this CHMSL (center, high-mounted stop light)... --- nxhio_xebeaio wrote: > Anybody know where It would be possible to find a light like this for > sale? ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) http://members.home.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html NAMGBR #5-2328 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 07:35:08 2001 From: Al Adams To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 08:37:22 -0600 Subject: 77 MGB Brake Servo I'd like to install a rebuild kit in the Bendix brake servo assist on my '77 B. I have removed the old unit from the car and have a new kit ordered from Moss. I can't find any instructions on removal of the old piston and diaphragm assembly except that it "should be done by my local BL dealer who has the special tool required". There aren't too many of those guys around anymore :>). Since Moss and VB both sell the repair kit, I assume the unit is restorable. Can someone tell me how to go about the rebuild? Or, are there specialists around with the special tool(s) needed to do this? Thanks, Al Adams /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 07:41:15 2001 From: To: "Matthew Trebelhorn" , Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 14:35:09 -0000 Subject: Re: Re: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! I would imagine so. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matthew Trebelhorn" To: Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 1:43 PM Subject: RE: Re: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! > Last night, I drove home with the heater turned off. The tach was fine. > > This morning, I turned the heater back on. By the time I got to work, the tach was reading 500-1000 RPM high. > > The next test will be with the heater on, but no dash lights. I suspect the problem will not occur -- that it needs a combination of heat from both sources. > > Does that mean a bad transistor in the tach? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 07:47:51 2001 From: Jaco Greeff To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:46:12 +0200 Subject: Re: 3rd brake light I think it is a great idea for my '73 B roadster. One of the things that scres me about driving in traffic is people not being able to see me because of the height (lack off) of the car. ????? ??????? wrote: > Perhaps it is sacrelige, but I was perusing the Australian RV8 site and > spotted a picture of the 3rd brake light used on that car - > a small bump that fit on the rear deck just in front of the trunk/boot. > > To quote the site, "This addition has been beautifully executed and most > people do not realise it has been added." > What more could you ask for? > See picture at: http://www.mgrv8.com/austrv8.html , near the bottom of the > page. > Anybody know where It would be possible to find a light like this for sale? > (a similar product - generic or from some more 'common' automobile would > probably fill the bill as well) > RMartin > 70 roadster > Tel Aviv. -- "There was a point to this story, but it has temporarily escaped the chronicler's mind." - This line perhaps best sums up the whole book. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 08:01:53 2001 From: Kevin Sullivan To: "Mg mailing list (E-mail)" Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 08:01:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: 3rd brake light On Wed, 19 Dec 2001, [windows-1255] nxhio xebeaio wrote: > See picture at: http://www.mgrv8.com/austrv8.html .... Man, that green RV8 is one good looking car, as new cars go. Kind of Bentleyesque, except for the grille. I think the CHMSL is a good idea. -- Kevin Sullivan kevins@khoral.com Khoral Research Inc. Albuquerque NM USA 1968 Dodge W-200 Crewcab "PW" www.khoral.com/staff/kevins/dodge 1960 MGA "Baby" www.khoral.com/staff/kevins/mgstuff 1959 Magnette ZB "P2" /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 08:14:36 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 01:23:44 +1030 Subject: Re: 3rd brake light RMartin wrote: > > Perhaps it is sacrelige, but I was perusing the Australian RV8 site and > spotted a picture of the 3rd brake light used on that car - > a small bump that fit on the rear deck just in front of the trunk/boot. > I have seen a few 'low-level' cars with the extra brake-light fitted to the centre of their rollbar. Definitely puts it on eye-level for many following cars. -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 09:12:08 2001 From: Tab Julius To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 11:08:00 -0500 Subject: [OT] - This just in the news - Reliant Robin 3-wheeler Wednesday December 19 9:13 AM ET Three-Wheeler Driver in High-Speed Police Chase LONDON (Reuters) - The driver of a classic British three-wheeled car faces charges of dangerous driving after leading police in western England on a 35-minute high-speed chase involving a helicopter. Two police cars were also involved in the pursuit of the 28-year-old theft suspect who cranked the infamously unstable Reliant Robin up to 90 miles per hour, police said on Tuesday. "It's not the sort of thing you see every day,'' Wiltshire police spokesman David Taylor told Reuters. He said the officers involved in the chase Saturday were astounded. "We reckon he reached a speed of up to 90 mph on the straight,'' he said. He said the chase began when officers responding to a robbery report from a local fast food restaurant spotted the suspect leaving the scene in the 25-year-old vehicle -- itself reported stolen a week earlier -- and set off in pursuit. The chase ended in a town in the neighboring county of Dorset where the suspect abandoned the car and was arrested as he tried to escape on foot. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 09:39:05 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: tab@penworks.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 11:35:02 -0500 Subject: RE: [OT] - This just in the news - Reliant Robin 3-wheeler Nice story especially for Mr. Been! Saw a few days ago on CNN an advertisement with a dark MGB, wherein a dog was jumping in. Nice with ww wheels. Cheers, Hans -----Original Message----- From: Tab Julius [mailto:tab@penworks.com] Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 5:08 PM To: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: [OT] - This just in the news - Reliant Robin 3-wheeler Wednesday December 19 9:13 AM ET Three-Wheeler Driver in High-Speed Police Chase LONDON (Reuters) - The driver of a classic British three-wheeled car faces charges of dangerous driving after leading police in western England on a 35-minute high-speed chase involving a helicopter. Two police cars were also involved in the pursuit of the 28-year-old theft suspect who cranked the infamously unstable Reliant Robin up to 90 miles per hour, police said on Tuesday. "It's not the sort of thing you see every day,'' Wiltshire police spokesman David Taylor told Reuters. He said the officers involved in the chase Saturday were astounded. "We reckon he reached a speed of up to 90 mph on the straight,'' he said. He said the chase began when officers responding to a robbery report from a local fast food restaurant spotted the suspect leaving the scene in the 25-year-old vehicle -- itself reported stolen a week earlier -- and set off in pursuit. The chase ended in a town in the neighboring county of Dorset where the suspect abandoned the car and was arrested as he tried to escape on foot. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 10:18:13 2001 From: Ajhsys@aol.com To: jacog@isdial.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 12:17:11 EST Subject: Re: 3rd brake light In a message dated 12/19/01 9:48:39 AM Eastern Standard Time, jacog@isdial.net writes: > I think it is a great idea for my '73 B roadster. One of the things that > scres me about driving in traffic is people not being able to see me > because of the height (lack off) of the car - - - - - - - - - - - You should try driving a Midget! The first time I took my Midget out I got stopped at a light with a new Ford F150 on one side, an Expedition on the other side, and a big dump truck in front of me. I could look under all three trucks. Allen Hefner SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward '77 Midget '75 Midget "The Project" '92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 10:40:10 2001 From: Ajhsys@aol.com To: kevins@khoral.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 12:37:42 EST Subject: Re: Was: 3rd brake light, Now: RV8 In a message dated 12/19/01 10:03:16 AM Eastern Standard Time, kevins@khoral.com writes: > > See picture at: http://www.mgrv8.com/austrv8.html .... > > Man, that green RV8 is one good looking car, as new cars go. > Kind of Bentleyesque, except for the grille. - - - - - - - - - - - Yeah but can you imagine the carnage on the roads if they brought the RV8 to the USA? They can't afford to make it legal here, so any brought in individually without federalization would be DEATH TRAPS!!! ;-) Allen Hefner SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward '77 Midget '75 Midget "The Project" '92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 11:33:10 2001 From: "Tim Economu" To: Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 10:33:56 -0800 Subject: OT: MG Icons " find an icon you like, copy it. If someone doesn't want you to have a copy of their icon, image file, etc. they should protect it from being copied." In the U.S. anyway...that would be stealing!! Under U.S. copyright law, the fact that someone authored or designed and published something, gives them copyright protection. That IS their protection. If you use their work for commercial gain, then you are violating the law. And if for non-profit work, you should at least ask their permission to use their work. Be nice, let's not be a world of thieves!! Just ask to use the work. If they decline, then go elsewhere!! Kind regards, Tim Economu 1969 MGB/GT /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 11:37:18 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 18:59:33 EST Subject: CNN the MGB, the dog and its journey In a message dated 12/19/01 8:40:24 AM Pacific Standard Time, Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com writes: > Nice story especially for Mr. Been! > Saw a few days ago on CNN an advertisement with a dark MGB, wherein a dog > was jumping in. > Nice with ww wheels. > Cheers, > Hans To the List; Yep, I saw it, too. I believe it was either a 1973 0r '74. Looks like they woman and the dog are stuck in traffic. The woman sees the dog jump out of the car. The dog heads for a small outdoors coffee shop. The coffee shop owner seeing the dog run up puts a cup of coffee into the dogs ruck sack. Off screen Announcer says "Smart dog," Dog goes on down the road a bit more where it makes a great move in an ongoing Chess game. Checkmate (?) At the end of the commercial you see the dog finally gets back to the woman and the MGB and hops back inside, and then the announcer says something profound like "....see CNN all the news all the time" or some smartspeak and the commercial ends. Albert Escalante 1978 MGB /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 17:58:56 2001 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Richard Feibusch) To: morris@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:53:54 -0800 (PST) Subject: Morris Sedans For Sale Listers Just got a call from Craig at Showmobiles movie car rentals up in North Hollywood, CA who wants to move a pair of solid but not running Minor saloons and a bunch of Nash/Austin Metropolitans RIGHT NOW and CHEAP - the Minors are a RHD 54 and a LHD 58 for about $800/offer each - GET 'EM WHILE THEY ARE HOT!!! I have no room. Nope, never seen 'em either. Call: 818-831-3394 or: 818-762-0700 Cheers, Rick Feibusch Venice, CA /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 20:32:48 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: "=?iso-8859-1?q?=EE=F8=E8=E9=EF_=F8=E5=E2=E5=E1=E9=EF?=" Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 20:31:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: 3rd brake light If you can make it so I can buy one of these in Denver CO, I will give you the light! :) On Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:57:18 +0200, nxhio xebeaio wrote: >Perhaps it is sacrelige, but I was perusing the Australian RV8 site and >spotted a picture of the 3rd brake light used on that car - >a small bump that fit on the rear deck just in front of the trunk/boot. > >To quote the site, "This addition has been beautifully executed and most >people do not realise it has been added." >What more could you ask for? >See picture at: http://www.mgrv8.com/austrv8.html , near the bottom of the >page. >Anybody know where It would be possible to find a light like this for sale? >(a similar product - generic or from some more 'common' automobile would >probably fill the bill as well) >RMartin >70 roadster >Tel Aviv. -- Andrew Lundgren lundgren@byu.net http://lundgren.denver.co.us /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 20:46:25 2001 From: Montgomery Morris To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 21:48:10 -0800 Subject: dizzy pickup alignment Merry Christmas, all. I have just reinstalled a dizzy that I took the optical trigger off of (Crane X-700 retrofit on 79B) before I sent it off to be evaluated. Stupid me did not mark the alignment of where the optical trigger went (there is a sliding adjustment slot for alignment) to before I took it off and now the car won't start-especially after I've also twisted the dizzy around to adjust the timing. The timing must be off a bunch because the timing light flashes irratically or not at all. I've tried turning to TDC on #1 plug and aligning the rotor to #1 plug and then the pickup to a gap in the shutter, but car still will not start, or if it does will not run long. According to the Cranecams.com site, improper distributor phasing is the most likely cause, but it says to check this you have to drill a hole in your dist. cap and then buy a new one. Is there any other way to do this? Any suggestions on how to get back to ground zero? Monte, not a mechanic, Morris /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 20:59:59 2001 From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 19:57:04 -0800 Subject: Rear breaks locked on Hi all: My drum on the drivers side is locked on is there anyway of adjusting it? BTW It is on a wire wheel hub. Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 03:08:41 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: Ajhsys@aol.com Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 19:04:05 EST Subject: Re: Was: 3rd brake light, Now: RV8 In a message dated 12/19/01 9:41:53 AM Pacific Standard Time, Ajhsys@aol.com writes: > Yeah but can you imagine the carnage on the roads if they brought the RV8 to > > the USA? They can't afford to make it legal here, so any brought in > individually without federalization would be DEATH TRAPS!!! ;-) > Allen Hefner SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward Allen, Why would they neccessarily have to be "DEATH TRAPS"? Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 03:12:46 2001 From: To: "Montgomery Morris" , Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 09:27:17 -0000 Subject: Re: dizzy pickup alignment If you can get a consistent spark from the coil but not at the plug leads then phasing is the likely problem. You should be able to mark the position of the posts in the cap on the distibutor body then line up the gap, the pickup and the spark to that. Remember to fix it at the 'retarded' end of the range so that there is enough room for the timing to be advanced when running. Easiest done with the dizzie being driven by a variable speed motor on the bench, but still do-able using engine cranking. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Montgomery Morris" To: Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 5:48 AM Subject: dizzy pickup alignment > Merry Christmas, all. > I have just reinstalled a dizzy that I took the optical trigger off of > (Crane X-700 retrofit on 79B) before I sent it off to be evaluated. Stupid > me did not mark the alignment of where the optical trigger went (there is a > sliding adjustment slot for alignment) to before I took it off and now the > car won't start-especially after I've also twisted the dizzy around to > adjust the timing. The timing must be off a bunch because the timing light > flashes irratically or not at all. I've tried turning to TDC on #1 plug and > aligning the rotor to #1 plug and then the pickup to a gap in the shutter, > but car still will not start, or if it does will not run long. According > to the Cranecams.com site, improper distributor phasing is the most likely > cause, but it says to check this you have to drill a hole in your dist. cap > and then buy a new one. Is there any other way to do this? Any suggestions > on how to get back to ground zero? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 03:12:37 2001 From: To: "Paul T. Root" , Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 09:37:46 -0000 Subject: Re: Was: 3rd brake light, Now: RV8 There have been kits available in the UK to 'RV8-ise' MGBs. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul T. Root" To: Cc: ; Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 7:27 PM Subject: Re: Was: 3rd brake light, Now: RV8 > What are the possibilities of putting an RV8 grill on a regular > RBB? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 04:14:05 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 21:45:26 +1030 Subject: Re: Was: 3rd brake light, Now: RV8 Ajhsys@aol.com wrote: > > Yeah but can you imagine the carnage on the roads if they brought the RV8 to > the USA? They can't afford to make it legal here, so any brought in > individually without federalization would be DEATH TRAPS!!! ;-) > Hmmmmm, I think I might have been offended by that statement if I hadn't spotted the smiley at the end of it? I think you are sarcastically indicating that your vehicle registration/safety laws are saying that Americans musn't be able to drive performance cars so they have to be 'dumbed down' for American drivers? In other words, they aren't 'DEATH TRAPS' here but would be in the USA. Gee, I am glad I spotted that smiley... you made me sit up in my seat and almost go into 'ranty mode'. Stop pushing those buttons Allen :-) Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia (who's car definitely would NOT pass inspection in the US) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 05:59:52 2001 From: "Ryan, Wesley" To: "'Eric'" , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 07:54:26 -0500 Subject: HELP WITH STARTING Ok I have finally gotten everything hooked up and I think the clutch may be actually in right this time. It is moving a half inch or so while pressing the clutch petal to the floor:) I tried to turn the engine over last night and it turned over once and then dies. I was unable to get it to turn over again?!? Is there a way to set the timing without the engine running or a trick to get it started so that I can set the timing with the timing gun.. I believe that this is more than likely the problem. Wesley Ryan Project Engineer GI Plastek Phone: 937-645-4018 Fax: 937-642-5326 Cell: 937-243-0909 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 06:45:32 2001 From: Al Adams To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 07:48:15 -0600 Subject: 77 MGB Brake Servo Thanks to everyone who responded regarding teardown of my servo. George Merryweather advised his method early on and I was able to open it with minimal damage and time. Al Adams /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 08:15:57 2001 From: Paul Root To: paul.hunt1@virgin.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 09:14:23 -0600 Subject: Re: Was: 3rd brake light, Now: RV8 Any hints on where to look for these? paul.hunt1@virgin.net wrote: > There have been kits available in the UK to 'RV8-ise' MGBs. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Paul T. Root" > To: > Cc: ; > Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 7:27 PM > Subject: Re: Was: 3rd brake light, Now: RV8 > > > What are the possibilities of putting an RV8 grill on a regular > > RBB? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 09:24:10 2001 From: matttrebelhorn@netscape.net (Matthew Trebelhorn) To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 11:23:09 -0500 Subject: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! Last night's test -- heater on, dash lights out -- went as predicted. The tach was spot on. This morning, just to make sure it was still there, I ran the heater and the dash lights. By the time I got to work, the tach was in fact abot 500 rpm high. This morning when I left for work, it was 28 degrees out -- the maximum errors were early in the week, when the outdoor temp was in the high fifties. Anyway, it pretty much looks like the tach makes mistakes when it gets hot. Which means either replace it or troubleshoot the electrics inside it. I found the following: http://www.pixelmatic.com.au/cortina/tacho.gif which is a schematic of, and a bit of advice on, a '60s Smiths tachometer. Well, it's better than nothing. Looks reasonably simple... Matt matttrebelhorn@netscape.net (Matthew Trebelhorn) wrote: >Last night, I drove home with the heater turned off. The tach was fine. > >This morning, I turned the heater back on. By the time I got to work, the tach was reading 500-1000 RPM high. > >The next test will be with the heater on, but no dash lights. I suspect the problem will not occur -- that it needs a combination of heat from both sources. > >Does that mean a bad transistor in the tach? -- __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 09:30:55 2001 From: To: "Ryan, Wesley" , "'Eric'" Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 16:08:03 -0000 Subject: Re: HELP WITH STARTING Connect a test-lamp or meter to the coil -ve/CB terminal and a ground and turn the ignition on. Turn the engine until it is at about 10 degrees BTDC, then twist the dizzie back and fore until the lamp just lights (or meter shows 12v) as you rotate it in the *clockwise* direction. That should be close enough to get it started. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan, Wesley" To: "'Eric'" ; Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 12:54 PM Subject: HELP WITH STARTING > Is there a way to set the timing without the engine running or a > trick to get it started so that I can set the timing with the timing gun.. I > believe that this is more than likely the problem. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 09:30:31 2001 From: To: "Paul Root" , Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 16:11:20 -0000 Subject: Re: Was: 3rd brake light, Now: RV8 I had a quick look on Google for 'RV8 body kit' but couldn't find anything immediately relevant otherwise I would have posted it, there were several pages of links so you may find something given more time than I had. I believe one of the MGOC mag, MG Enthusiast or MG World also covered a conversion. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Root" To: ; Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 3:14 PM Subject: Re: Was: 3rd brake light, Now: RV8 > Any hints on where to look for these? > > > There have been kits available in the UK to 'RV8-ise' MGBs. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 09:47:03 2001 From: Al Adams To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 10:48:32 -0600 Subject: 77 MGB Brake Servo Here's what George Merryweather had to say about teardown on the servo. "I have had servo come apart easily, and not so easily. To over simplify, it is just a twist n lock deal. Once you have removed the peripherals it should untwist. I have used penetrating oil, also gentle prying at each indent to loosen rust, then put it in a vise and twist. I also have a pre-drilled piece of flat stock that I use as a lever. The servo is spring loaded. Not overly dangerous. More startling than anything else. Once it starts to unlock, then just continue slowly. Sorry, this is probably not the magic that you were looking for, but that is how I do it. Thanks. I can try to clarify more if you like." His instructions were right on and the two halves of the housing separated (with some resistance and difficulty, of course) with very light, repairable damage, even though they were rusted together pretty badly in a couple of places. I had to use a hammer and punch to rotate the top section. Don't worry about loosing the spring. It's big. Thanks again to everyone. Al Adams /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 10:03:30 2001 From: "Derek Vandivere" To: Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 18:03:00 +0100 Subject: Re: CNN the MGB, the dog and its journey Actually, it's an ad for USA Today. Dog picks up a baby's dropped pacifier, puts it back in the pram, ends with the dog picking up a newspaper. Appropriate, I guess, as USA Today is written to the reading level of your average canine... >In a message dated 12/19/01 8:40:24 AM Pacific Standard Time, >Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com writes: >> Nice story especially for Mr. Been! >> Saw a few days ago on CNN an advertisement with a dark MGB, wherein a dog >> was jumping in. >> Nice with ww wheels. >> Cheers, >> Hans >To the List; >Yep, I saw it, too. I believe it was either a 1973 0r '74. Looks like they >woman and the dog are stuck in traffic. The woman sees the dog jump out of >the car. The dog heads for a small outdoors coffee shop. The coffee shop >owner seeing the dog run up puts a cup of coffee into the dogs ruck sack. Off >screen Announcer says "Smart dog," Dog goes on down the road a bit more where >it makes a great move in an ongoing Chess game. Checkmate (?) At the end of >the commercial you see the dog finally gets back to the woman and the MGB and >hops back inside, and then the announcer says something profound like >"....see CNN all the news all the time" or some smartspeak and the >commercial ends. >Albert Escalante 1978 MGB /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 11:24:41 2001 From: "Tim Economu" To: Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 10:25:34 -0800 Subject: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! >"Subject: RE: Re: Re: Tachometer reading 500-2000 RPM high! > >Does that mean a bad transistor in the tach?" > Probably but could also be poor connections in the under-dash wiring. A connection heating up and going resistive might also show the same symptoms. So after cleaning all the connections in that circuit, using the Haynes or Bentley schematics for reference, I would then retest for the same failure. If it still occurs, then you have clean connections!! And then you must work on the tach. The way I would troubleshoot this heat related problem is to heat the circuit board and parts with a hair dryer...since it is very difficult to get too much heat from this tool. And then take a can of cool spray (Radio Shack) or can also substitute the can of compressed air for cleaning out computers, and spray each part _one at a time_ slowly while watching the tach operate. When there is a change from normal to abnormal operation, you have uncovered the defective part. Continue this process to check out ALL the parts so that you can verify that you have found all heat sensitive parts. If you don't get satisfaction using the hair dryer, you may have to resort to using a real heat gun. Remember the transistors are made to operate up to 150 degrees C and the circuit board and other components will take quite a bit of heat for a short time. (Just don't stop the heat gun in one location for while!!) Kind regards, Tim Economu Senior Design Engineer 1969 MGB/GT mona /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 11:32:22 2001 From: Skye Poier To: MG Nuts Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 10:31:41 -0800 Subject: Re: Rear breaks locked on Word on the street is that Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck said: > Hi all: > My drum on the drivers side is locked on is there anyway of adjusting it? BTW It is on a wire wheel hub. Yes, there's a square-headed adjustment screw on the top-back of the rear brakes, try backing that off. If that doesn't help, dont hammer on the drum; get an old drum and bolt it backwards onto the studs, and hammer on that to get it off. Skye -- 1966 MGB - GHN3L Safety Fast! __,__\__ The MGB Experience www.mgbexperience.com (_o____o_) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 12:39:28 2001 From: Paul Root To: paul.hunt1@virgin.net Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 13:38:38 -0600 Subject: Re: Was: 3rd brake light, Now: RV8 Thanks! I did a quick "MG RV8" search in google too. 17 pages or something. I need to refine the search. Since I got my "MG Driver" magazine (NAMGBR), I've been thinking of getting an archive of MG World to see what it's like, but haven't acted yet. (MG Driver had an ad for MG World). Paul. paul.hunt1@virgin.net wrote: > > I had a quick look on Google for 'RV8 body kit' but couldn't find anything > immediately relevant otherwise I would have posted it, there were several > pages of links so you may find something given more time than I had. I > believe one of the MGOC mag, MG Enthusiast or MG World also covered a > conversion. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Paul Root" > To: ; > Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 3:14 PM > Subject: Re: Was: 3rd brake light, Now: RV8 > > > Any hints on where to look for these? > > > > > There have been kits available in the UK to 'RV8-ise' MGBs. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 13:03:23 2001 From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" To: , Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 15:05:31 -0600 Subject: Quantined virus help,needed Listers, Very sorry to bomb the list, but could any of the "much smarter than I" computer guys contact me off the list on this please. I have 2 of the Badtrans viruses in "quantine" starring at me fevorishly trying to escape. Norton says it cannot repair. Can I simply "Delete" them then hit "delete all Deleted Folder" to cancel them forever or do I have to keep them in "quantine" until Norton comes up with a fix. Thanks, now get back to the car questions, Mark /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 13:27:53 2001 From: "E.Claure" To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" , Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 16:26:24 -0400 Subject: Re: Quantined virus help,needed Mark, prey they don't escape through the monitor screen or power cable and jump right at ya!. Just kidding. Your Norton usually asks you to send to quarantine or delete file. I usually delete the mothers. You can delete from quarantine with no problem. If you delete using windows make sure you also delete them from the recycle bin. Later, Enrique /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 14:31:21 2001 From: David Deutsch To: Dave Deerson , Ian Pender Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 16:38:09 -0500 Subject: MG Calendar Just got my 2002 MG Calendar in the mail and all I can say is WOW!!!. Visit www.browntrout.com and click on the automotive calendar links. The thing that I REALLY like seeing is that two of the three Bs pictured on the calendar are clearly displaying North American MGB Register Grill Badges. One is a 74 Teal Blue B that belongs to Dick Brown and the other is a 71 BGT belonging to Robert Houillon. Safety Fast, David Deutsch Chairman of North American MGB Register /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 16:05:55 2001 From: "Kai M. Radicke" To: "MG List" Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 18:22:17 -0500 Subject: "MGR" Body Kit for MGB For all those searching... here it is: http://www.johnhills.co.uk/page2.html Although for the trouble, why not purchase genuine RV8 panels and bolt them to your MGB? MGBhive (the original, in the UK) used to advertise these panels. I don't find the fibreglass kit above to be as appealing, may be the lipstick red colour though. Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 16:08:52 2001 From: "Kai M. Radicke" To: "MG List" Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 18:25:56 -0500 Subject: Wilson Preselector Gearbox While this may be a bit more oriented for the pre-war list, I happen not to be on the list... so I hope someone here will now the answers to the following questions. How does the this gearbox work mechanically? I know the concept. Also, what other vehicles was it used it. How many gears did the gearbox have? How come this type of gearbox didn't evolve further, or become more popular? I think that is all, for some reason had a daydream about driving home in a K3 today and was trying to figure out the logistics of the gearbox operation. Cheers, Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 16:09:13 2001 From: Ronald Olds To: mgs@autox.team.net, shop-talk@autox.team.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 17:06:48 -0600 Subject: Non LBC Radio Removal Help I need to remove a factory radio from from a 98 Ford Windstar. The radio has four small holes in each corner of the face. I pushed allen wrenched in all four holes and the radio seemed to get loose but I couldn't get it out. Am I doing it the right way and not pulling hard enough or do i need to do something else? There isn't much to pull on and I am trying not to break anything. I appreciate any help I can get. Thanks and happy holidays to everyone! Ron Olds /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 16:28:52 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: paul.hunt1@virgin.net Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 18:27:56 EST Subject: Re: Was: 3rd brake light, Now: RV8 In a message dated 12/20/01 2:41:49 AM Pacific Standard Time, paul.hunt1@virgin.net writes: Albert - you missed the wink at the end. I nearly did too Oh...? Thanks Paul, usually by the end of the day my computer weary eyes are too weak to see these subtle nuances ( ;^ ) Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 16:38:28 2001 From: "David Hill" To: "Ronald Olds" , , Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 23:36:08 -0000 Subject: Re: Non LBC Radio Removal Help Hi Ron, Don't know if it's the same on U.S. radios but the arrangement on European radios is like this... Two small (about 3/16") holes at each side, i.e. one in each corner. These may have Allen screws in to cover the mechnism beneath; if so, they come out first. The holes accept special removal tools. These are U-shaped, made of about 1/8" dia. steel rod and have shaped ends - hard to describe - bit like a bullet shape with a waist where they meet the shaft of the rod. You should be able to get them from a car spares or car audio shop. Push one tool in each side, into the respective upper and lower holes, so that the 'U's look like handles, one at each side of the radio fascia. When the tools are far enough in, they click. Grab each 'handle', pull them slightly apart and then pull the whole shoot towards you, i.e. towards the back of the car. You may need to wriggle the things a bit to get the unit clear but when you see the sprung tags that the tools retract, you'll see how it all works. Good Luck and Merry Xmas Dave Hill York UK '72 BGT '94 Vauxhall Cavalier - with Eurofit radio! ----- Original Message ----- From: Ronald Olds To: ; ; Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 11:06 PM Subject: Non LBC Radio Removal Help > I need to remove a factory radio from from a 98 Ford Windstar. The radio > has four small holes in each corner of the face. I pushed allen wrenched in > all four holes and the radio seemed to get loose but I couldn't get it out. > Am I doing it the right way and not pulling hard enough or do i need to do > something else? There isn't much to pull on and I am trying not to break > anything. I appreciate any help I can get. > > Thanks and happy holidays to everyone! > Ron Olds /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 16:39:49 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'Kai M. Radicke'" Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 15:39:23 -0800 Subject: RE: "MGR" Body Kit for MGB Kai: Thanks for the web site info. I've had a number of folks interested in the RV8 conversion panels, but havn't had any first hand experience. I've got a nasty feeling that fit and finish may be similar to the GTS fender flare kit. It takes a lot of time and care to get the car looking first rate. As for the original RV8 panels, a friend of mine bought the bumpers and hood to fit to his late model B. The panels were extremely expensive and both the panels and car required MASSIVE modifications. He was planning on making molds from the modified bumpers, but then fell off the face of the planet. His car appears more attractive than the one shown on the web page with bumper conversion only, so I think he may have done more reshaping. His car is lowered with Porsche 944 wheels and the effect works quite well. The 3.9 V8, four wheel discs and RV8 hood make the conversion complete. Kelvin Dodd. > -----Original Message----- > From: Kai M. Radicke [mailto:kmr@pil.net] > Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 3:22 PM > To: MG List > Subject: "MGR" Body Kit for MGB > > > For all those searching... here it is: > > http://www.johnhills.co.uk/page2.html > > Although for the trouble, why not purchase genuine RV8 panels > and bolt them > to your MGB? MGBhive (the original, in the UK) used to > advertise these > panels. I don't find the fibreglass kit above to be as > appealing, may be > the lipstick red colour though. > > Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 16:55:03 2001 From: "Jim Stuart" To: "Mg list" Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 19:00:07 -0500 Subject: 3rd brake light On my old 1977 roadster, I added a 3rd brake light from a Plymouth Horizon. $5.00 from a salvage yard complete with harness & gasket, drill 3 holes & bolt it on. On my BGT, I have a 3rd brake light from J C Whitney that sticks to the inside of the back glass. For my new roadster, 1966, I bought a license plate frame from a street rod company in polished aluminum that included a tag light & a LED third brake light. I would not drive in city traffic without some sort of 3rd light. Check the salvage yards for convertibles. Many of the older ones had a 3rd light bolted on the trunk lid, especially Chrysler products. Jim Stuart 1974 MGBGT V8 1966 MGB V8 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 16:55:09 2001 From: Trmgafun@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 18:54:01 EST Subject: MG Club - Rocky Mountain Center Hello, I'm working on updating the BCW events page, and have an event (see below) posted, but with no contact person. Can anyone help? Also, while I'm at it, if any of you have any events you would like to pass on to me to add to the events page, I'd be more than happy to add them. Thanks, Scott Helms http://members.aol.com/Trmgafun/britishcarweek.html Colorado - June 7 - 9, 2002 50th Annual Rallye - Glenwood SpringsDenver, Colorado - The MG Car Club Rocky Mountain Center No Contact information as of this publishing. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 17:13:45 2001 From: Tab Julius To: Ronald Olds Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 19:12:50 -0500 Subject: Re: Non LBC Radio Removal Help A lot of current radios have a special removal tool - the "regular footprint" DIN radios have what looks like two U-shaped handles, slightly indented on the ends, and one hole in each corner (four holes total). You insert one of the U's on the left, the other on the right, give a little pressure and out comes the radio. Look in your instruction manual for the radio in the glovebox - you might just have such a removal tool. At 05:06 PM 12/20/01 -0600, Ronald Olds wrote: >I need to remove a factory radio from from a 98 Ford Windstar. The radio >has four small holes in each corner of the face. I pushed allen wrenched in >all four holes and the radio seemed to get loose but I couldn't get it out. >Am I doing it the right way and not pulling hard enough or do i need to do >something else? There isn't much to pull on and I am trying not to break >anything. I appreciate any help I can get. > >Thanks and happy holidays to everyone! >Ron Olds /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 17:38:15 2001 From: David Deutsch To: "Dodd, Kelvin" , "'Kai M. Radicke'" Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 19:45:05 -0500 Subject: Re: "MGR" Body Kit for MGB "alot of time and care".............."MASSIVE modifications" The Brit car parts folks refer to these as "Some fitting may be required". This is a RED FLAG term. Safety Fast/B There, David Deutsch NAMGBR, Chairman -----Original Message----- From: Dodd, Kelvin To: 'Kai M. Radicke' Cc: 'mgs@autox.team.net' Date: Thursday, December 20, 2001 6:40 PM Subject: RE: "MGR" Body Kit for MGB Kai: Thanks for the web site info. I've had a number of folks interested in the RV8 conversion panels, but havn't had any first hand experience. I've got a nasty feeling that fit and finish may be similar to the GTS fender flare kit. It takes a lot of time and care to get the car looking first rate. As for the original RV8 panels, a friend of mine bought the bumpers and hood to fit to his late model B. The panels were extremely expensive and both the panels and car required MASSIVE modifications. He was planning on making molds from the modified bumpers, but then fell off the face of the planet. His car appears more attractive than the one shown on the web page with bumper conversion only, so I think he may have done more reshaping. His car is lowered with Porsche 944 wheels and the effect works quite well. The 3.9 V8, four wheel discs and RV8 hood make the conversion complete. Kelvin Dodd. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 17:37:41 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: "Dodd, Kelvin" , "'Kai M. Radicke'" Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 16:37:02 -0800 (PST) Subject: RE: "MGR" Body Kit for MGB Hey, the 'RV8 GT' is pretty sharp! I like the colour also..... They only made the original RV8 as a roadster, right? I personally always have liked the look of the RV8. I think it's a nice update of the classic B body shell. Slightly more sumptuous interior, too.... ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) http://members.home.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html NAMGBR #5-2328 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 17:41:48 2001 From: Max Heim To: MG List Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 16:40:54 -0800 Subject: Re: 3rd brake light Hmmm, that location on the license plate frame isn't too prominent... in fact, I imagine it's lower than the regular brake lights. So I wouldn't really count that as a safety bonus, IMO. on 12/20/01 4:00 PM, Jim Stuart at jimbb88@erols.com wrote: > For my new roadster, 1966, I bought a license plate frame from a street rod > company in polished aluminum that included a tag light & a LED third brake > light. > I would not drive in city traffic without some sort of 3rd light. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the primer red one with chrome wires /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 18:16:05 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'David Deutsch'" Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 17:15:55 -0800 Subject: RE: "MGR" Body Kit for MGB Nah! More of a waving yellow. Proceed with great care at your own risk. KD > > > "alot of time and care".............."MASSIVE modifications" > The Brit car > parts folks refer to these as "Some fitting may be required". > This is a RED > FLAG term. > Safety Fast/B There, > David Deutsch > NAMGBR, Chairman /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 18:25:24 2001 From: "N" To: "MG Digest" Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 20:22:59 -0500 Subject: Factory Hard Top The side (or rear) windows are the easy part. The frame that Adam Schellinck is missing is a major problem. I faced that same problem in 1995 or so. I had searched via phone a number of British car wrecking yards around the U.S. No one had any window frames. A friend suggested I call Bromsgrove MG Centre in the U.K. They had the entire 3-piece frame with window in stock. I was already pricing the replication of the pieces at machine shops. As, Allen says - very pricey. Try calling MG specialty shops around the world. Start with those in the U.K. You may luck out. If not, your only solution is having them machined. Some of the joining brackets may still be available from Vic. Brit. I bought some there to replace those on the one good side as I was restoring the top. Norm Sippel '66 MGB - Factory H.T. owner since c. 1995 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 19:54:51 2001 From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" To: , Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 21:56:25 -0600 Subject: Final, Quantined Virus Help Wow, we've got a lot of "smarter than I" computer guys (and girls)on these lists. Thanks for the help. There's still a lot of differences of opinion here but we're not gonna bring that up again. The problem has been resolved as far as my "puter" goes. So we're virus free according to my Virus soft ware anyway. ( Norton 2002 with all updates) Back to the Healey games! THANKS AGAIN /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 20 20:38:43 2001 From: Martin To: MG List , Riley list Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 21:36:50 -0600 Subject: Windows Vulnerable to Hack Attacks Here we go again..... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Microsoft's newest version of Windows, billed as the most secure ever, contains several serious flaws that allow hackers to steal or destroy a victim's data files across the Internet or implant rogue computer software. A Microsoft official acknowledged that the risk to consumers was unprecedented because the glitches allow hackers to seize control of all Windows XP operating system software without requiring a computer user to do anything except connect to the Internet. http://dailynews.yahoo.com/h/ap/20011220/ts/microsoft_hackers_5.html http://dailynews.yahoo.com/h/ap/20011220/tc/microsoft_hackers_7.html http://dailynews.yahoo.com/h/nm/20011220/tc/tech_windowsxp_security_dc_1.html http://dailynews.yahoo.com/h/kpix/20011220/lo/2052_1.html /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 21 05:32:47 2001 From: "Ken Waringa" To: "Mg1100" , "MG" Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 06:30:52 -0600 Subject: FW: A Christmas greetings I just got this in from a member of one club I'm in and I thought you might enjoy it. I'd like to wish everyone a very Merry Christmas and a safe and Happy New Year. Ken Waringa Subject: A Christmas greetings 'Twas the night before Christmas, and all through the valley, Not a sports car was stirring, not even a Ferrari. The stockings were hung on the garage door with care, In hopes that Hot Nick soon would be there. The kiddies were nestled all snug in their beds, While Alfas and Jaguars raced in their heads; Mom in her goggles and I in beret, Had tucked in the Allard, and then hit the hay. When out on the road there arose such a clatter, I sprang from my bed to see what was the matter. Expecting to see a Mercedes roar by, We raced to the window, my dear wife and I. The moon on the chrome of her baby Lago, Gave the brightness of noonday to objects below. When what should my wondering eyes betray, But eight tiny Minis, pulling a sleigh. With a round hero driver so steady and quick, I knew in a moment it must be Hot Nick! More rapid than Grand Prix his little fleet came, And he poured on the gas as he called them by name. "Now XK, now DB, now TA and K3, On LM, on TR, on GT and TC; To the top of the apex, keep away from the wall, Now dash away, dig out, and change cogs all!" Like Ascari and Fangio fighting a duel, They broadslid the driveway and turned on the fuel; Up to the garage where they braked to a stop, The sleigh full of goodies with Santa on top. The sleigh was aluminum - A Ghia design; In British Racing Green, it really looked fine. The badge bar up front stood out clear and bold, The collection of badges a sight to behold. He was dressed up all in Italian Race Red, From the tip of his toes to top of his head; A bundle of speed parts he had on his back, And he chuckled with glee as he opened his pack. His eyes, how they sparkled, like a spinning Rudge wheel, His beard was the silver of machine-tooled steel; With a little round face and a chubby waist line That shook when he laughed like that Bugatti of mine. He started his task without saying a word, The idling exhausts were all that was heard. Wire wheels for Junior, to fit his TD, Hood strap and windscreens for Allard and me. Some paint for the Bug, marked "French Racing Bleu", Castrol, a blower, and dual carbies, too; The last thing he left was the best that could be, A year's "Road and Track" for the family and me. He jumped to the sleigh and gave his commands, Then away they all flew like the start at Le Mans, And I heard him exclaim as he quickened the pace, Merry Christmas to all and to all a good race! /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 21 08:48:37 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: kmr@pil.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:44:10 -0500 Subject: RE: Wilson Preselector Gearbox Kai, I'm not knowledgable with this box, but have some books at home wherein these gearboxes are mentioned as being part of real classic cars. Some people hated the boxes in these times I can remember of the stories, because it was not always clear what the next pre-selected gearnumber would be. Especially in the current busy traffic I can imagine this type of box would not be easy to drive with. Try to find the American author Ralph Stein via the Internet. Perhaps he might be able to help. Good luck! Cheers, Hans -----Original Message----- From: Kai M. Radicke [mailto:kmr@pil.net] Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 12:26 AM To: MG List Subject: Wilson Preselector Gearbox While this may be a bit more oriented for the pre-war list, I happen not to be on the list... so I hope someone here will now the answers to the following questions. How does the this gearbox work mechanically? I know the concept. Also, what other vehicles was it used it. How many gears did the gearbox have? How come this type of gearbox didn't evolve further, or become more popular? I think that is all, for some reason had a daydream about driving home in a K3 today and was trying to figure out the logistics of the gearbox operation. Cheers, Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 21 10:30:12 2001 From: Skye Poier To: MG Nuts Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 09:29:32 -0800 Subject: Re: Rear breaks locked on Oh yeah. Brain fart. Ignore me. Skye 66 B Word on the street is that paul.hunt1@virgin.net said: > Isn't that one of the methods for pulling a half-shaft once you have the > backplate off, which needs you to have got the hub, backplate and hence drum > off already? It won't help get a stuck drum off. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Skye Poier" > To: "MG Nuts" > Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 6:31 PM > Subject: Re: Rear breaks locked on > > > > If that doesn't help, dont hammer on the drum; get an old drum and > > bolt it backwards onto the studs, and hammer on that to get it off. > > > > Skye /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 21 12:23:42 2001 From: "Rick Lindsay" To: Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 13:29:07 -0600 Subject: MGless Hi Gang, I haven't posted to this list for a while as I am currently MG-less. However, fear not! I continue to lurk. :-) I write today only to wish one and all, Happy Holidays! Forza! Rick Lindsay Emerald Research / Tulsa OK USA /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 21 15:23:40 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: mgs Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 16:12:29 -0600 Subject: Re: Was: 3rd brake light, Now: RV8, Now SUV bait. Did any of you see a political cartoon by Hitgh? It was published in our Sunday paper. The first frame shows a little scooter with the title "The 'Segway' Scooter is introduced as an laternative to cars. The second frame has cup holders added to the handle bars, an electronic box, etc. and is titled "publice demans lead to options such as cup holders, CD players, airbags and rear spoilers. In the third frame the scooter now has a bench seat with the caption "Modifications are made to accommodate familes... More changes are in the works...." The final frame shows a Jeep like SUV with a bumper sticker reading "Save the Planet." It's caption is "finally, the 'Grand Segway' Sport Utility Scooter is introduced. Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 21 17:20:52 2001 From: ShearSAVVY1@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 19:18:51 EST Subject: mga floorboard plans Hi everyone, I remember seeing mga floorboard build specs on the web, but can't locate them now. Does anyone have the link? Thanks and happy holidays! Bill /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 22 04:57:51 2001 From: Emjaxfl@aol.com To: skye@ffwd.cx, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 06:57:03 EST Subject: Re: Rear breaks locked on Gentlemen: That is an "Intra-Cranial Gaseous Discharge." Have a Safety Fast Merry Christmas! Eric /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 22 05:01:48 2001 From: barneymg@ntsource.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 06:02:27 -0600 Subject: A Twin Cam called Ratty ??? This could be something to do on a slow list weekend. I have found links to MGA restoration articles on the MG Enthusiasts web site, reprinted from Enjoying MG, the MGOC newsletter. A fellow named John Day is restoring a Twin Cam coupe, and doing a damn nice job of it. I have links to articles Part 3, Part 4, and Part 5 (and apparently still more to come). These pages are here: Part 3 http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&a=&p=emg/emg010902.htm Part 4 http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&a=&p=emg/emg100101.htm Part 5 http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&a=&p=emg/emg120101.html I would like to find Parts 1 and 2 in this series. The MGOC web site says that members have access to articles dating bacg to 1995, which should certainly cover this. Unfortunately I'm not a member. [And the annual fees are a bit steep (squeek, squeek), especially considering that a lot of their benefits are not available in the USA.] I would appreciate if someone who is a member could supply links to the two earlier articles. I would also like to have any contact information for this John Day, as I would like to chat with him personally, and maybe put some more web links on my MGA web site. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 22 06:52:35 2001 From: Jim DeNapoli To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 08:51:57 -0500 Subject: Engine Rebuild I am considering an engine rebuild for my MGB 1975. I would apprciate hearing from anyone who who has been through the process and would like to share any info, including what I might expect as far as costs. Thanks. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 22 07:55:01 2001 From: To: , Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 14:43:06 -0000 Subject: Re: A Twin Cam called Ratty ??? The article archive goes back to June 96 but doesn't seem to have entries for parts 1 and 2. Whereas parts 4 and 5 are titled 'MGA Twin Cam Rebuild (part 4)' and 'MGA Twin Cam Rebuild (part 5)' the entry for part 3 is titled 'MGA Twin Cam Rebuild' which makes me think it is the first available online. The printed articles appeared in April and June this year. There are other articles online for those months, but not the 'Ratty' ones. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2001 12:02 PM Subject: A Twin Cam called Ratty ??? > This could be something to do on a slow list weekend. I have found links > to MGA restoration articles on the MG Enthusiasts web site, reprinted from > Enjoying MG, the MGOC newsletter. A fellow named John Day is restoring a > Twin Cam coupe, and doing a damn nice job of it. I have links to articles > Part 3, Part 4, and Part 5 (and apparently still more to come). These > pages are here: > > Part 3 > http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&a=&p=emg/emg010902.htm > Part 4 > http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&a=&p=emg/emg100101.htm > Part 5 > http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&a=&p=emg/emg120101.html > > I would like to find Parts 1 and 2 in this series. The MGOC web site says > that members have access to articles dating bacg to 1995, which should > certainly cover this. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 22 09:06:06 2001 From: "Larry Hoy" To: , Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 09:05:10 -0700 Subject: RE: MG Club - Rocky Mountain Center Scott, the most current info on the 50th Annual Glenwood Springs Rallye & Tour would be found at ; however, the web site is not updated with the 2002 information yet. Larry Hoy > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net > [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Trmgafun@aol.com > Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 4:54 PM > To: mgs@autox.team.net > Subject: MG Club - Rocky Mountain Center > > > Hello, > > I'm working on updating the BCW events page, and have an > event (see below) > posted, but with no contact person. Can anyone help? > > Also, while I'm at it, if any of you have any events you > would like to pass > on to me to add to the events page, I'd be more than happy to > add them. > > Thanks, > > Scott Helms > http://members.aol.com/Trmgafun/britishcarweek.html > > Colorado - June 7 - 9, 2002 50th Annual Rallye - Glenwood > SpringsDenver, > Colorado - The MG Car Club Rocky Mountain Center > No Contact information as of this publishing. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 22 10:45:53 2001 From: Ronald Olds To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net, shop-talk@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 11:43:21 -0600 Subject: Re: Radio removal Thanks to everyone for their help and advice for removing my radio. I was able to find the special "U" shaped tool for about $4. I still had some trouble getting it out. It seemed to be really tight but eventually it gave in and I won. Some of you said that I could get this tool at Wal-Mart. Well I must have the crappiest Wal-Mart around. Every time someone recommends getting something there mine never has it. This time it was this tool other times it has been LBC models it doesn't seem to matter what I'm looking for. It looks like I will have to find another one. Thanks again to everyone for their help and the best to all for the Holiday season. Ron Olds /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 22 11:03:48 2001 From: Mromgbtkd@aol.com To: turf42@home.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 13:03:08 EST Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild I have rebuilt a 75. These are some of the things to consider. Head: New valves, Hardened exhaust seats, Bronze valve guides, Shaving head to straighten. About $200. Block: New rings for sure, Maybe or maybe not having a bore job. The bore must be measured, New pistons are a good idea.18gk type have higher compression. If rods and crank are good new bearings all around. Rods can be resized cheaper than buying new. Ridge reaming if the ridge is .002 or less. New spring for relief valve allways.$200-$600. A good machine shop is the hardest thing to find. I have had heads cracked by a machine shop that had a 22 year old do the work (I took the shop to small claims court). Look for gray hair on the machinist and experience with British cars. anywhere from $500 to about $1000 will give you a well done job. Don't forget to do the carb at the same time. A dual su conversion is a nice addition and very drivable. Mike Olsen Chicagoland MG club Driving event coordinator /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 22 12:22:18 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: turf42@home.com Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 14:21:31 EST Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild Hi, Yeah, put aside about $2500 bucks. That way you'll be able to take care of whatever problems may arise. A completely rebuilt engine sans labor will run you about $3000 I tried to do a parts tally out of a MOSS catalogue and it looks like pretty much the same --Except that most places do a discounted price number or they'll provide free shipping and handling which can run you $200-$300 bucks, easily. If you're gonna drop a bundle of cash in some suppliers hands ask them, WHAT will THEY give you in return? It can't hurt to ask...maybe it'll actually save you major dollars in the end. Although a rebuilt short or long block will usually come with a 60 or 90 day guarantee on parts and labor. It's your call. Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 22 13:26:27 2001 From: "Dan Furbish" To: "mgs" Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 15:29:01 -0500 Subject: MGB seat questions Happy and Safe Holidays everyone ! Winter has come to Massachusetts. I picked up 2 seats from a wrecked 67 MGB this summer, so I will be taking the seats and all the old carpeting out of my BGT soon. I have a few questions. 1. Since I never adjust the seats in my car, has anyone permanently mounted the seats to the floor boards via a mounting bracket ? and if so what method did you use. (I want to use a method that will raise the seat a bit). 2. Is the method of putting a fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank a wise thing to do ? 3. How often and long should I let the vehicle run during the time it's "sleeping" in the garage during the months with snow and ice on the ground outside ? Dan 68 MGBGT God Bless America /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 22 15:22:07 2001 From: Jethogger@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 17:21:21 EST Subject: In need of MGB Bonnet. Hello All. I am looking for a good used MGB bonnet. Must be within 120 miles of Chattanooga, TN. Thanks John, Flintstone, GA /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 22 15:23:54 2001 From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" To: , Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 17:26:13 -0600 Subject: Brake Caliper rebuilds Listers, Does World Wide Auto in Wisconsin rebuild brake calipers? Any experience with there product? Thanks, Mark /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 22 21:34:36 2001 From: Charles Hill To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 14:48:24 -0600 Subject: Re:Wilson Preselector Gearbox Kai, The Blower's Manual devotes most of the chapter on gearboxes to the Wilson preselector. The basic description is a 4 speed planetary gearbox. The concept is roughly similar to the actual gearbox part of a contemporary automatic transmission. A note to add to the towing thread: The manual states that if a Magnette is to be towed, the driveshaft must be removed as the oil pump will not operate and the transmission will seize. Regards, Charles Hill /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 22 23:40:45 2001 From: Mgbbob@aol.com To: turf42@home.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 01:39:47 EST Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild Hi Jim, I'm going through that now with my early 5-main "GB" series engine. How much work will you do yourself? I pulled the entire engine apart myself hoping to just "freshen up" with rings and bearings. This is a spare engine with OD tranny and my "buddies" convinced me to have the engine magnafluxed and boiled ($65) rather than just re-assembling. I'm glad I did because we discovered that the crankshaft was unuseable. I picked up a .010" under for $175. I brought all the parts to the machine shop. He worked up a list of approx $1200 for everything including head work(less new guides and vavles if needed). This included a new ring gear, cam bearings, pistons, freeze plugs, main and connecting rod bearings and a gasket kit. It also included boring the block and regrinding the shaft (no longer necessary) and all necessary machining and engine work. Look for a machine shop that will let you find parts on your own without penalizing you. Set aside $1500 if you plan to do some of the work yourself.....more if you don't. Bob Stahlbush 66 MGB GHN3L 78708 60 TR3A TS 81398L /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 04:06:43 2001 From: To: "Dan Furbish" , "mgs" Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 10:45:38 -0000 Subject: Re: MGB seat questions All you need to do is use thicker or additional spacers and longer bolts under the existing runners, which retains the fore and aft movement. It would be much more work to remove the runners. Les Bengson has written an article on replacing the wooden seat runners with alloy on the web site below, click 'Spanners' and 'Seat Rails'. PaulH http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Furbish" To: "mgs" Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2001 8:29 PM Subject: MGB seat questions > 1. Since I never adjust the seats in my car, has anyone > permanently mounted the seats to the floor boards via a > mounting bracket ? and if so what method did you use. > (I want to use a method that will raise the seat a bit). /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 05:53:21 2001 From: "michelle pountney" To: Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 23:56:34 +1100 Subject: Re: loose bonnet Hi guys... A minor problem has developed with my now much loved MGB Mk 1. I took it for a drive down the coast the other evening, sometimes hitting the blinding speed of 70 MPH!!!!!. However after hitting the odd bump on the road ( not an uncommon thing here in Australia) the bonnet opened, thankfuly catching on the safety catch. The question is why????The catch spring seems quite tight as does the one on the bonnet itself. When its closed there is no play between the bonnet and the frame. Its an interesting one I'm hoping you gurus can answer.. I hope you all have happy festive season and that santa brings you that tool/part/car you always wanted!!!!! Regards Smithy( michelle is actually my girlfriend) From Oz..... 1968 MGB Mk1. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 06:13:20 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 23:43:33 +1030 Subject: Re: loose bonnet michelle pountney wrote: > > However after hitting the odd bump on the road ( not > an uncommon thing here in Australia) the bonnet opened, thankfuly catching > on the safety catch. The question is why????The catch spring seems quite > tight as does the one on the bonnet itself. When its closed there is no play > between the bonnet and the frame. Its an interesting one I'm hoping you > gurus can answer.. Michelle, As one who has had the bonnet try very hard to beat me over the head (and an aluminimum bonnet is very, very expensive let me tell you) you can bet that I am still a little twitchy when it comes to that big flap of metal. I, too, had been suffering the same problem as you - but these times are less serious because it DOES stop on the secondary catch (still not fun when it 'pops' at 70mph) and I also have a metal 'guy wire' loop which will catch it if it tries to go any further. This last item is required for our competition events but I am happy to leave it in place at all times. I looked on my website but I can't find any pictures of my immediate solution - racing tape holding the thing down. I used this after a nightmare road trip to a racing weekend interstate (Michelle will know where Winton Raceway is) - a nine hour drive from Adelaide with the bonnet 'popping' up sometimes every twenty minutes, despite my efforts to adjust and tighten the centre catch 'pole' (the bit that sticks down into the catch). No adjustment up or down would work... so racing tape it was, simply for peace of mind more than anything. The solution.... check that centre pole! You will probably find that it is bent slightly one way or the other - off centre. It doesn't have to be much. Unless it is perpendicular it seems not to want to hold fast - give it a few gentle taps with a mallet to bring it back to perpendicular and see how that works. It worked for me. The weather here is getting perfect for driving so none of need these little annoyances to spoil our fun. Good luck -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 06:46:12 2001 From: James Schulte To: michelle pountney , Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 08:41:47 -0800 Subject: Re: loose bonnet Smithy/ Michelle, Whatever your name is (-: I agree with Eric on the solution, however there may be another problem that I had. Check the release knob under your right knee(if RHD) or left knee (if LHD) and make sure it is pushed forward after you close the bonnet. I figured this out after it popped on me doing 120 MPH (speedo is off calibration because I have 185/60 R 14 Goodyear's on it HeHe) Good luck!! Jim 78B for sale )-: 70B in quest of a C michelle pountney wrote: > Hi guys... > A minor problem has developed with my now much loved MGB Mk 1. I took it > for a drive down the coast the other evening, sometimes hitting the blinding > speed of 70 MPH!!!!!. However after hitting the odd bump on the road ( not > an uncommon thing here in Australia) the bonnet opened, thankfuly catching > on the safety catch. The question is why????The catch spring seems quite > tight as does the one on the bonnet itself. When its closed there is no play > between the bonnet and the frame. Its an interesting one I'm hoping you > gurus can answer.. > I hope you all have happy festive season and that santa brings you that > tool/part/car you always wanted!!!!! > Regards > Smithy( michelle is actually my girlfriend) From Oz..... > 1968 MGB Mk1. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 07:05:56 2001 From: Carl W French To: "Dan Furbish" , "mgs" Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 09:04:21 -0500 Subject: Re: MGB seat questions These are good questions, can the answers be sent via the list, or at least me. Carl French Just a hair colder in Southern Maine >2. Is the method of putting a fuel stabilizer in the >fuel tank a wise thing to do ? > >3. How often and long should I let the vehicle run during the >time it's "sleeping" in the garage during the months with snow >and ice on the ground outside ? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 08:20:03 2001 From: To: "Carl W French" , Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 15:03:17 -0000 Subject: Re: MGB seat questions If it has not been used for about a month I run mine for 20mins or so with the windows open and the heater on. I run it at a fast idle, 1500rpm or so, but with a wedge in the throttle pedal, not with the choke. While it is doing that I rotate the wheels 1/4 turn. > >3. How often and long should I let the vehicle run during the > >time it's "sleeping" in the garage during the months with snow > >and ice on the ground outside ? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 08:20:03 2001 From: To: "michelle pountney" , Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 15:04:23 -0000 Subject: Re: loose bonnet Could also be a worn bonnet pin, which can be 'fixed' by rotating it 1/4 turn. ----- Original Message ----- From: "michelle pountney" To: Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2001 12:56 PM Subject: Re: loose bonnet > Hi guys... > ... However after hitting the odd bump on the road ( not > an uncommon thing here in Australia) the bonnet opened, thankfuly catching > on the safety catch. The question is why???? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 08:56:26 2001 From: "mghirsch" To: Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 09:55:42 -0600 Subject: Re: loose bonnet Also check to see if the captive nut holding the pin is secure. I've had an aftermarket bonnet where the metal was too thin and fatigued resulting in a tear in the metal. The pin therefore was loose and the bonnet kept popping up. Also, the later model B's had a smaller washer on the bottom of the pin than the earlier models. The larger washer can be used in place of the smaller one, and they may help on the rubber mounted B's. Maynard Hirsch /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 09:01:29 2001 From: "mghirsch" To: Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 10:00:53 -0600 Subject: Re: Seat questions-now running in storage I never run my car during the winter, unless it is to drive it on a clear and dry day. 20 minutes is not enough to thoroughly warm the engine, even with a fast idle. It takes about twenty to thirty minutes of driving to bring it all up to temp. Less heat is produced by the engine when it is not driving the car. Youre best bet is to prepare the car for storage properly. Fill the tank, change the oil, add fuel stabilizer, either put the car on blocks or add 5-7 pounds of air to the tires. You may want to use a trickle charger on the battery. When spring comes, remove the spark plugs and crank the engine until you hoave oil pressure. Install the plugs and off you go. Maynard Hirsch /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 09:49:25 2001 From: To: "mghirsch" , Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 16:47:24 -0000 Subject: Re: Seat questions-now running in storage Well there we must differ. The engine is doing quite a lot of work - it is acting as a massive vacuum pump for one thing. And it doesn't have cold air blasting over it. With the door closed and the exhaust venting outside the temp gauge runs noticeably higher than on the road and gets there faster. Having said that I only do it if I can't drive it on dry and salt-free roads, which is much preferable. ----- Original Message ----- From: "mghirsch" To: Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2001 4:00 PM Subject: Re: Seat questions-now running in storage > I never run my car during the winter, unless it is to drive it on a clear and > dry day. > > 20 minutes is not enough to thoroughly warm the engine, even with a fast idle. > It takes about twenty to thirty minutes of driving to bring it all up to temp. > Less heat is produced by the engine when it is not driving the car. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 10:50:51 2001 From: "mghirsch" To: Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 11:49:59 -0600 Subject: Re: Seat questions-now running in storage I still beg to differ. An engine does not work hard when it is not driving a car. There is a company that demonstrates it's synthetic oil by running an engine drained of oil and with no coolant. The engine would run for many hours because there was no load and therefore no significant heat buildup. When you run an engine, you have to make sure that the oil gets hot enough to boil off any water and fuel contaminints in it. An idling engine doesn't do t his. Maynard Hirsch /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 12:52:52 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 11:52:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: How NOT to change your Oil.... Boy, dodged a bullet this week.... Last week-end, went into the garage and started the '76B to let it run a bit - it had been a couple of weeks of weeks since I had paid any attention to it.... Started pruning a tree at the opposite corner of the house, then a neighbor stopped by, we chatted... My younger son comes around the corner and mentions in passing, 'Gee, there's this big cloud of blue smoke coming out of the garage...'... I immediately remember the MG running at fast idle... which it had been doing for a GOOD 30 minutes.... So, I take off and shut her down, to the accompaniment of a burning smell. Pop the hood, all looks fine although there is a major haze in the garage.... Friday, I finally got a chance to go back into the garage and check it out. First thing I did was start 'er up, no problem, although the oil pressure gauge took a few seconds longer to rise... Sounded a little louder than usual, but I pulled her right out for a quick spin. No sooner had I gotten onto the road when the oil pressure gauge started bouncing up and down (mostly down)... Pulled right back into the garage, shut 'er down, and pulled up the dipstick - empty!! Couple of quarts of oil, went back out today, and all is well.... Sheesh! I did enjoy some top-down Christmas shipping today... High 40's here in Central NJ. Happy Holidays to all.... ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) http://members.home.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html NAMGBR #5-2328 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 12:52:52 2001 From: stevep To: MG List Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 14:56:15 -0800 Subject: Brakes and coil Springs Merry Christmas Listers Two questions for you about my 58 MGA 1500 1. how do I tell if the brake drums have enough material left to have turned or are too far gone and new ones need to be acquired.? 2. Do the front coil need to be depressed and clamped to remove. I've got frame sitting on jack stands with no body or engine in place. Are the springs at their max length now? I am not clear after reading the service manual. Any help would be appreciated. Steve Petrosky 58A, 78B /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 13:49:13 2001 From: WLHoss@aol.com To: Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 15:48:17 EST Subject: HELP the Boot Won't Open Well, I made it from St. Louis to the North Carolina coast (1000 miles)with no problems in my 59 MGA, but now the I can't get the boot open. I have it jamed with clothes and Christmas presents and I think somehthing has shifted. Surely, someone has had a problem like this. Any and all help appreciated. Bill /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 14:24:36 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 07:54:36 +1030 Subject: Re: Wilson Preselector Gearbox Charles Hill wrote: > > A note to add to the towing thread: The manual states that if a > Magnette is to be towed, the driveshaft must be removed as the oil pump > will not operate and the transmission will seize. > Well, here is a discussion that we have never been into before? Has anyone any thoughts on this? (Lights fuse and runs) Now I might shutdown my computer and go away on holidays for a few weeks :-) -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 14:39:57 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: eric@erickson.on.net Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 16:39:17 EST Subject: Re: loose bonnet Eric, As one who has experienced that very same thing.."Getting klonked by a bonnet that suddenly decided to let go..." all I can recommend for an absolute sure fix is to use these things called Dzus fittings. I know they are used in dragsters that run at over 200 mph so they for sure could handle our "B's" speeds of 70 and 80 mph with no problems. Heres the name of a company that handles these and other "absolute" body fasteners:>> http://www.boomerangracing.com/Home.html<< And of course I have no vested interests in the mentioned business other than it was readily available. Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 15:33:59 2001 From: "Mike Janacek" To: "MG-BBS" Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 07:48:20 -0500 Subject: Re: loose bonnet Just to add to Albert's comments, alot of WWII era American aircraft used Dzus fasteners exclusively to hold on various engine/inspection panels and the fighters went quite a bit faster than 200 mph. For those who've never seen one of these fasteners, sure you have! Just look at the cover(s) over your battery box(es) assuming you still are original. Mike '79B ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2001 4:39 PM Subject: Re: loose bonnet > Eric, > As one who has experienced that very same thing.."Getting klonked by a bonnet > that suddenly decided to let go..." all I can recommend for an absolute sure > fix is to use these things called Dzus fittings. I know they are used in > dragsters that run at over 200 mph so they for sure could handle our "B's" > speeds of 70 and 80 mph with no problems. Heres the name of a company that > handles these and other "absolute" body fasteners:>> > http://www.boomerangracing.com/Home.html<< And of course I have no vested > interests in the mentioned business other than it was readily available. > Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not > running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 16:31:11 2001 From: Bullwinkle To: mgs Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 17:28:46 -0600 Subject: Re: Wilson Preselector Gearbox Eric: W.E. Blowwer's book covers the pre selector gearbox. On one of the captions for a picture it says. "The oil pump is fitted on to the front cover and is driven by an eccentric on the front end input shaft. Oil is drawn from the gearbox and is delivered to the hollow shaft, so that all the gears are constantly lubricated." Someone else wants to see the material which I haven't had time to scan. I wonder why? If I get it done by the latter part of the week, do you want a copy? Blake /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 16:35:57 2001 From: James Schulte To: Eric , "Mgs@autox.team.net" Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 18:29:10 -0800 Subject: Re: Wilson Preselector Gearbox Charles, I had this discussion before I went out to MG2001 in July. I disconnected mine on a 78B and 2 other Philly members did not on a 76B and 72B. They experienced problems with their O/D's and I did not. Can't tell you why but if it were me I'd disconnect. Jim 78B for sale 70B seeking CGT Eric wrote: > Charles Hill wrote: > > > > A note to add to the towing thread: The manual states that if a > > Magnette is to be towed, the driveshaft must be removed as the oil pump > > will not operate and the transmission will seize. > > > > Well, here is a discussion that we have never been into before? > > Has anyone any thoughts on this? > > (Lights fuse and runs) > > Now I might shutdown my computer and go away on holidays for a few weeks :-) > > -- > Eric > '68MGB MkII > Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 18:36:07 2001 From: barneymg@ntsource.com To: stevep , MG List Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 19:32:14 -0600 Subject: Re: Brakes and coil Springs At 02:56 PM 12/23/01 -0800, Steve Petrosky wrote: >.... 58 MGA 1500 >1. how do I tell if the brake drums have enough material left to have >turned .... Original size is 10.000" inside diameter. Do not machine beyond 10.060". If in doubt, take then to your local machine shop for measurement. >2. Do the front coil need to be depressed and clamped to remove. I've >got frame sitting on jack stands with no body or engine in place. Are the >springs at their max length now? .... Springs are not at their maximem length in assembly, but they will relax nicely as the bottom spring pan is lowered. For SOP for removal check here: http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/mgb_susp Note: Without the body and engine you may have to add some weight to the frame to allow a little lift at to unload the trunion bolt. However, I seem to recall assembling mine many years ago during restoration with no body or engine present. Maybe I had someone sit on the side of the frame during assembly. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 20:08:32 2001 From: Carl Elliott To: "Kathy Marie Duffy ( Dawson )" Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 22:10:32 -0500 Subject: Xmas 2001 To all a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Carl & Virginia Elliott /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 20:14:26 2001 From: Ronald Olds To: David Scheidt Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 21:11:43 -0600 Subject: Re: Radio removal At 16:02 12/23/2001 -0500, David Scheidt wrote: How many stores do you shop in where the employees are trained or even have the slightest idea of what is going on. The biggest problem I had this year Christmas shopping was trying to talk to the people working in the stores. I found it just isn't the larger stores either. Sometimes the smaller stores are better (if they are then I will return to them again) but not very often. > >Wal-mart is alwayws like that. I think that the two big problems are that >the people that walmart emplys are untrained, and don't know where anything >is, and the stores are too big, and too poorly laid out. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 23 21:56:31 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: yd3@nvc.net Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 23:55:21 EST Subject: Re: Wilson Preselector Gearbox Blake and Eric, I found the following information on a quick trip up the Internet highway! Wilson Pre-selector gearboxes were used in many early British cars like the Riley and the Lagonda. You can find a quick Q & A about these transmissions by going to: >>http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/guy.weatherall/ht/presel.htm Hey, guess what? Our own Lawrie Alexander and Berry Kercheval are among those who pose and answer questions about this early "automatic-like" gearbox. Many vintage race cars used them ERA's, Connaughts, and the Laystal Cromard for example. Also it bears reference to use of the Wilson Pre-Selector Gearbox in the early MG-PA's among others. Very interesting stuff if you want to do a quick read! Hey..Mele Kelekemaka from the Colonies, Y' all! Albert Escalante, 1978 MGB /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 01:14:49 2001 From: =?ISO-8859-8?Q?=EE=F8=E8=E9=EF_=F8=E5=E2=E5=E1=E9=EF?= To: yd3@nvc.net Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 10:18:30 +0200 Subject: RE: Was: Radio removal, Now: Xmas shopping (OT) > >Wal-mart is alwayws like that. I think that the two big > problems are that > >the people that walmart emplys are untrained, and don't know > where anything > >is, and the stores are too big, and too poorly laid out. Well, I can't speak for the training, but as for the layout, you'd be suprised - these stores are very carefully laid out, based on precise National surveys of buying patterns, with minor variations for regional differences. The thing is, though, they are laid out with a different goal than you might think. The point is not to make anything easy to find, but rather the opposite - to make sure that shoppers are exposed to as many products as possible before they get to that one item they really intended to purchase in the first place. Many purchases are 'impulse' purchases, rather than planned, and the stores are laid out to take advantage of this bit of human nature. Of course, there has to be some semblance of order - if everything was just randomly thrown about people would just quit going to the store - it has to be a balance. FWIW, supermarkets are usually based on the same principles - ever wonder why milk, eggs, and bread are usually at the very back of the store? You have to walk through the whole store just to get at these most common items. And don't even get me me started on the candy at the checkout counters . . . RMartin Tel Aviv 70 B /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 01:58:25 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 19:29:24 +1030 Subject: Re: loose bonnet Aeseeyou@aol.com wrote: > > Eric, > As one who has experienced that very same thing.."Getting klonked by a bonnet > that suddenly decided to let go..." all I can recommend for an absolute sure > fix is to use these things called Dzus fittings. Hmmm, here is their website... http://www.dzus.co.uk/ Interesting, but I am wary of drilling unnecessary holes in my 'expensive' aluminium bonnet. Besides (although some of these catches don't appear to fit into this category) in Australia the 'normal' bonnet catch, the ones that have a pole sticking up through the bonnet that you put a pin through, are illegal on our road registered cars. It seems they can damage pedestrians who decide to get in your way and slide across your bonnet. At the moment, taking my own advice about 'straightening' the normal bonnet catch, all seems well. As I said, I have a further failsafe in place anyway, but it can still wreck your lap time or could lead to an accident to have a bonnet flapping around even just a couple of inches up - it is unnerving, distracting and will possibly bend/damage the aluminimium bonnet as well. -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia "Hello. My name is Inigo Montoya. You killed my father. Prepare to die." /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 04:06:55 2001 From: To: "V8 list" , Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 10:48:08 -0000 Subject: Oil Viscosity. Was: How NOT to change your Oil.... Speaking of changing oil I only noticed a couple of changes ago that GTX in the UK has changed from 15W/50 to 15W/40. Might be my imagination but the engine seemed to sound more rattly than usual when hot with it. Decided to see if there were any other 15W/50s in Halfords and found two - their own brand and Duckhams Q. Couldn't quite bring myself to go for the own-brand so got the Duckhams. The first thing I noticed was that it seemed significantly thicker out of the can than I remember the GTX. 2nd was that the cheapskates only put 4.5 litres in instead of 5. But the bad news is the time the oil pressure gauge takes to rise from cold now. OK, it is a factory V8 which are well know for having a slow gauge, and we have ambients of 30/40F at the moment, but this is ridiculous. The only good news is that the hot idle is noticeably higher, but as I say it is winter. Even though this oil has only just gone in I'm thinking of changing it again, but what for? Any better-flowing 15W/50s out there? If I have to settle for a /40 then maybe I should go for Shell Helix Super at 10W/40. Or even Mobil 1 at 5W/40 (although it also seems to be available as 0W/40 and 5W/30). My daughters Metro was supposed to use 10W/40 as I remember, but it had the consistency of water and leaked past oil seals, whereas GTX didn't. Can I expect similar, or worse, leaks with the Shell and Mobil? While searching for info I came across the following which I pass on: More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil by Ed Hackett http://www.rconcepts.com/beard/dragnet/drag/oilinfo.html And the home page has another link to a page on Octane. PaulH. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 07:32:13 2001 From: "Michael Lupynec" To: "Mike Janacek" , "MG-BBS" Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 09:24:38 -0500 Subject: Re: loose bonnet Lupynec to Janacek - bet u didn't know Dzus, who got the patent in the 30's was Ukrainian. Mike L 60A,67E,59Bug ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Janacek To: MG-BBS Sent: December 23, 2001 7:48 AM Subject: Re: loose bonnet > Just to add to Albert's comments, alot of WWII era American aircraft used > Dzus fasteners exclusively to hold on various engine/inspection panels and > the fighters went quite a bit faster than 200 mph. > For those who've never seen one of these fasteners, sure you have! Just look > at the cover(s) over your battery box(es) assuming you still are original. > > Mike > '79B /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 08:37:04 2001 From: David Councill To: Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 08:36:25 -0700 Subject: Re: Oil Viscosity. Was: How NOT to change your Oil.... A fairly nice article although it was mostly stuff I already knew from testing motor oils and fuel in Colombia back in the 80s. But the reason why I am replying is a similar problem I had about two years ago. I usually change to 10W/40 in the winter. I bought a case of Castrol GTX and found the 10W/40 oil was clear (like water) and appeared very thin. I was convinced the oil was bad, but the store I bought it from said they had heard of no problems. My BGT ran fine with it in there although the oil pressure appeared to run maybe 5-10 psi lower than normal. Since then, the Castrol has always come in its normal darker color though. I can only guess that there was a change in the supply of crude at the time but hope that Castrol kept its normal specifications on the oil. Pour point is a big factor here - when it gets in sub-sero temps here (Montana), oil doesn't flow at all. Never keep spare containers of oil in the car during winter - you can't get it ou David 67 BGT 72 B (restoration in the midst) At 10:48 AM 12/24/2001 +0000, paul.hunt1@virgin.net wrote: >Speaking of changing oil I only noticed a couple of changes ago that GTX in >the UK has changed from 15W/50 to 15W/40. Might be my imagination but the >engine seemed to sound more rattly than usual when hot with it. Decided to >see if there were any other 15W/50s in Halfords and found two - their own >brand and Duckhams Q. Couldn't quite bring myself to go for the own-brand >so got the Duckhams. The first thing I noticed was that it seemed >significantly thicker out of the can than I remember the GTX. 2nd was that >the cheapskates only put 4.5 litres in instead of 5. But the bad news is >the time the oil pressure gauge takes to rise from cold now. OK, it is a >factory V8 which are well know for having a slow gauge, and we have ambients >of 30/40F at the moment, but this is ridiculous. The only good news is that >the hot idle is noticeably higher, but as I say it is winter. > >Even though this oil has only just gone in I'm thinking of changing it >again, but what for? Any better-flowing 15W/50s out there? If I have to >settle for a /40 then maybe I should go for Shell Helix Super at 10W/40. Or >even Mobil 1 at 5W/40 (although it also seems to be available as 0W/40 and >5W/30). My daughters Metro was supposed to use 10W/40 as I remember, but it >had the consistency of water and leaked past oil seals, whereas GTX didn't. >Can I expect similar, or worse, leaks with the Shell and Mobil? > >While searching for info I came across the following which I pass on: > >More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil >by Ed Hackett >http://www.rconcepts.com/beard/dragnet/drag/oilinfo.html > >And the home page has another link to a page on Octane. > >PaulH. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 08:59:46 2001 From: Patton Dickson To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 09:59:25 -0600 Subject: Just bought a new car, so I'm back! Hey everyone, Very few of you would remember me, but I was a member of this list until the Spridget list was formed three or four years ago. I headed over there as the list traffic was too much for me to keep up with on both lists. Well a after couple of years, and moves later, I found myself without an LBC for the first time in 17 years. Not that I was ever anything more than a novice, but I had my 67 Sprite from High School till February 2001, when we sold the car when moving to the Houston area. Anyhow, the bug bit me badly this week, and as unfortunate timing would have it, a very good deal on a 67 MGB fell in my lap. This afternoon I brought it home. It needs a lot, but it still pretty solid, no major rust, the doors don't sag, and it's mostly all there. Well, I am building a game plan for the resurrection of the car. Over the next couple of weeks, I am going to clean everything I can, as the car was filthy. This way I can feel what I have gotten myself into. It is missing the top bows and top, the interior will need replacing, and the door windows are missing, but beside that everything seems to be there. All of the glass was removed at some point and I will need all of the seals and fuzzies also. BTW Does anyone have a no-headrest tonneau that they would like to trade for one that does? I do need some hints on the best way to go about a couple of things. How do I charge the 6 volt batteries, just like a regular battery (with the charger set to 6 Volts of course) but twice, or do I have to disconnect them first? I am going to try and charge them, but I am almost sure they will be bad, are they typically available locally? The PO had the car run for him the day he bought it and never tried to start it again. Then they rigged a small tank for the gas as the gas was old. That gas is still in there, even older. What is the best way to get that gas out of there, and flush the tank? Which manuals and suppliers are the best? I will get the Bentley manual, but are Haynes and others worth owning. I liked Motorhead for my Sprite as they seem to carry more quality parts. George Merryweather also has gotten a bit of my money in the past when I needed Moss stuff. Thanks, I look forward to hearing from you folks, picture of the car are on my homepage (link below). I will say that a good bit that looks like rust is just dirt. Patton ------------------------------------ Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert 1967 MGB New Website!!!! All New Format!!! All New Location!!!! http://carport.virtualave.net/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 09:49:20 2001 From: Carl W French To: Patton Dickson , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 11:48:50 -0500 Subject: Re: Just bought a new car, so I'm back! What a great looking project! It does look like there is a lot to work with. It will certainly kep you occupied for a couple of years at the earliest. Keep us up to date on it. Carl French Alfred, Maine 67B 80B >Anyhow, the bug bit me badly this week, and as unfortunate timing would >have it, a very good deal on a 67 MGB fell in my lap. This afternoon I >brought it home. It needs a lot, but it still pretty solid, no major rust, >the doors don't sag, and it's mostly all there. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 09:51:21 2001 From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" To: "Patton Dickson" , Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 11:54:05 -0600 Subject: Re: Just bought a new car, so I'm back! Hi Patton, Welcome back. It has been recommended on the list to switch over to a group 26 or 24-- 12volt(much cheaper too) and use only one of your battery boxes and the other one for a plastic storage liner( spare oil bottles) Watch the polarity, you may be positive ground. Also it is doubtful that your gas tank is going to be any good. The first time you try to get gas up to your carbs all the residue accumulated in the tank will be sucked into the fuel and eventually clog it. Maybe not right away but it could happen when your miles away from home and then you've got the job of figuring where the problem is. My advise through experience is to take the tank out now, have a radiator company clean it up for you, test the lines inside , and after that you can decide if etching it and sealing the inside is worth it or should you just buy a new one. Look for the yearly sales, $150.00 can buy you a new one and you can rest easy. I have drained and siphone more gas from clogged tanks than I care to think about(not a good buzz or very healthy) Happy Holidays, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: Patton Dickson To: Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 9:59 AM Subject: Just bought a new car, so I'm back! > Hey everyone, > > Very few of you would remember me, but I was a member of this list until > the Spridget list was formed three or four years ago. I headed over there > as the list traffic was too much for me to keep up with on both > lists. Well a after couple of years, and moves later, I found myself > without an LBC for the first time in 17 years. Not that I was ever > anything more than a novice, but I had my 67 Sprite from High School till > February 2001, when we sold the car when moving to the Houston area. > > Anyhow, the bug bit me badly this week, and as unfortunate timing would > have it, a very good deal on a 67 MGB fell in my lap. This afternoon I > brought it home. It needs a lot, but it still pretty solid, no major rust, > the doors don't sag, and it's mostly all there. > > Well, I am building a game plan for the resurrection of the car. Over the > next couple of weeks, I am going to clean everything I can, as the car was > filthy. This way I can feel what I have gotten myself into. It is missing > the top bows and top, the interior will need replacing, and the door > windows are missing, but beside that everything seems to be there. All of > the glass was removed at some point and I will need all of the seals and > fuzzies also. BTW Does anyone have a no-headrest tonneau that they would > like to trade for one that does? > > I do need some hints on the best way to go about a couple of things. > > How do I charge the 6 volt batteries, just like a regular battery (with the > charger set to 6 Volts of course) but twice, or do I have to disconnect > them first? I am going to try and charge them, but I am almost sure they > will be bad, are they typically available locally? > > The PO had the car run for him the day he bought it and never tried to > start it again. Then they rigged a small tank for the gas as the gas was > old. That gas is still in there, even older. What is the best way to get > that gas out of there, and flush the tank? > > Which manuals and suppliers are the best? I will get the Bentley manual, > but are Haynes and others worth owning. I liked Motorhead for my Sprite as > they seem to carry more quality parts. George Merryweather also has gotten > a bit of my money in the past when I needed Moss stuff. > > Thanks, I look forward to hearing from you folks, picture of the car are on > my homepage (link below). I will say that a good bit that looks like rust > is just dirt. > > Patton /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 11:41:03 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 01:02:21 -0600 Subject: Re: Oil Viscosity. Was: How NOT to change your Oil.... David Councill wrote: > > A fairly nice article although it was mostly stuff I already knew from > testing motor oils and fuel in Colombia back in the 80s. > > But the reason why I am replying is a similar problem I had about two years > ago. I usually change to 10W/40 in the winter. I bought a case of Castrol > GTX and found the 10W/40 oil was clear (like water) and appeared very thin. > I was convinced the oil was bad, but the store I bought it from said they > had heard of no problems. My BGT ran fine with it in there although the oil > pressure appeared to run maybe 5-10 psi lower than normal. Since then, the > Castrol has always come in its normal darker color though. I can only guess > that there was a change in the supply of crude at the time but hope that > Castrol kept its normal specifications on the oil. > > Pour point is a big factor here - when it gets in sub-sero temps here > (Montana), oil doesn't flow at all. Never keep spare containers of oil in > the car during winter - you can't get it out. When ice racing Minis in Ontario in 1965, the ambient temp was usually around 30 below zero f. We kept the engine running all night the night before the event, fearing it wouldn't start the next morning if we didn't. We shut off the engine momentarily to check the oil before the race day started; was two quarts low. We opened the can with a can opener and spooned the oil-jello into the filler opening, then capped it and started the engine again. It worked. Minis are miraculous on the ice; our little 850 was in the lead after five laps in the feature when the loong gooseneck shifter broke off at the floor just as I was shifting from third to second, leaving the car out of gear and out of the race. Even though it was late after dark on a Sunday, we made it to the dealer's in town by driving in second gear (pried into gear with a screwdriver). The Dealer, Ted Oddy, opened the dealership garage and called one of his men down to the garage at ten at night. We pulled the shifter remains out and he welded the shifter back together so we could drive home. Then Ted refused to charge us a penny. Them was the good old days. -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 12:17:48 2001 From: Ajhsys@aol.com To: dcouncil@imt.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 14:16:41 EST Subject: Re: Oil Viscosity. Was: How NOT to change your Oil.... In a message dated 12/24/01 10:38:52 AM Eastern Standard Time, dcouncil@imt.net writes: > Pour point is a big factor here - when it gets in sub-sero temps here > (Montana), oil doesn't flow at all. Never keep spare containers of oil in > the car during winter - you can't get it ou - - - - - - - - - - Unless, of course, you use synthetic oil. Allen Hefner SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward '77 Midget '75 Midget "The Project" '92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 13:00:04 2001 From: JERTIGGER2@cs.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 14:59:10 EST Subject: Exhaust question My 73 Midget has a home made exhaust system on it, no problem except the exhaust fumes roll up the back of the car and right to me. The exhaust pipe comes out about 8" past the rear of the car. Question where does the OEM exhaust pipe come out? Jerry gassed Rein /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 16:09:39 2001 From: Bud Krueger To: MG List , Andrew Proudfoot Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 18:09:04 -0500 Subject: UFO from the North Hi Andy, Any sign of a UFO coming down from the North? Maybe he's bringing presents for your 77B (lbc content). Merry Christmas to all listers, Bud Krueger (for those who don't know him , Andy's an Air Traffic Controller at Gander.) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 17:39:47 2001 From: "J.R. Leach" To: "MG List" Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 19:46:42 -0500 Subject: RE: UFO from the North > Hi Andy, > > Any sign of a UFO coming down from the North? Maybe he's > bringing presents Go to this sight for latest info on the UFO . http://www.noradsanta.org/english/radar.html Happy Holidays To All, Jim L /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 17:58:13 2001 From: Eric To: MG List Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 11:27:24 +1030 Subject: Re: UFO from the North Bud Krueger wrote: > > Any sign of a UFO coming down from the North? Hey Bud. Why would he be comeing from the North? I think you are looking in the wrong direction because we are South of you and he has already been here (and I really didn't need any more car washing/waxing products :-) -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 18:16:38 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 08:15:23 -0600 Subject: Re: UFO from the North Eric wrote: > > Bud Krueger wrote: > > > > Any sign of a UFO coming down from the North? > > Hey Bud. Why would he be comeing from the North? I think you are > looking in the wrong direction because we are South of you and he has > already been here (and I really didn't need any more car washing/waxing > products :-) > > -- > Eric > '68MGB MkII > Adelaide, South Australia This week's "Snorty" cartoon comments on this: http://www.snorty.net/ or on my web page, scroll down: http://www.rocky-frisco.com It's Minis instead of MG's, but that's a cousin/uncle sort of thing: full-blood LBC from bonnet to boot. :) -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 24 22:36:37 2001 From: David Woerpel To: MG List , Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 23:33:05 -0600 Subject: Holidays We finally have good old Wisconsin weather w/ a little bit of snow for Christmas! Time to sort out the cars for next season. Saw an MGA coupe' with disc wheels in Milwaukee a couple of days ago.....anyone on the list? Wishing all of you a very Happy Holiday Season and may next year be the year of the LBC! To all a good night. Dave 59 :{) 59 MGA 1500 rdstr /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 02:08:58 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: schultejim@prodigy.net, mpountney@primus.com.au, Mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 04:04:03 -0500 Subject: RE: loose bonnet Check that the catch and operating cable are well lubricated. When closing the bonnet it might look well closed, but the the vibration of the drive you do may open it just a little, so the pin can get loose. So verify full and easy movement of the catch parts which are operated by the release cable. I have seen this before. Merry Chrismas list! Cheers, Hans -----Original Message----- From: James Schulte [mailto:schultejim@prodigy.net] Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2001 5:42 PM To: michelle pountney; Mgs@autox.team.net Subject: Re: loose bonnet Smithy/ Michelle, Whatever your name is (-: I agree with Eric on the solution, however there may be another problem that I had. Check the release knob under your right knee(if RHD) or left knee (if LHD) and make sure it is pushed forward after you close the bonnet. I figured this out after it popped on me doing 120 MPH (speedo is off calibration because I have 185/60 R 14 Goodyear's on it HeHe) Good luck!! Jim 78B for sale )-: 70B in quest of a C michelle pountney wrote: > Hi guys... > A minor problem has developed with my now much loved MGB Mk 1. I took it > for a drive down the coast the other evening, sometimes hitting the blinding > speed of 70 MPH!!!!!. However after hitting the odd bump on the road ( not > an uncommon thing here in Australia) the bonnet opened, thankfuly catching > on the safety catch. The question is why????The catch spring seems quite > tight as does the one on the bonnet itself. When its closed there is no play > between the bonnet and the frame. Its an interesting one I'm hoping you > gurus can answer.. > I hope you all have happy festive season and that santa brings you that > tool/part/car you always wanted!!!!! > Regards > Smithy( michelle is actually my girlfriend) From Oz..... > 1968 MGB Mk1. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 02:13:51 2001 From: "Evangelos G. Makris" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 11:09:28 +0200 Subject: have a good time I wish everyone a great time over the Holidays. Happy New Year. Evangelos /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 02:18:19 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net, kpdii@softhome.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 04:14:27 -0500 Subject: RE: Just bought a new car, so I'm back! Hi patton, Good luck! As the King of darkness is a good friend of me - my advise is to have all electrical connections checked - cleaned and replaced whenever there is any doubt. Cheers, Hans '71 BGT (Netherlands) -----Original Message----- From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net] Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 6:54 PM To: Patton Dickson; mgs@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Just bought a new car, so I'm back! Hi Patton, Welcome back. It has been recommended on the list to switch over to a group 26 or 24-- 12volt(much cheaper too) and use only one of your battery boxes and the other one for a plastic storage liner( spare oil bottles) Watch the polarity, you may be positive ground. Also it is doubtful that your gas tank is going to be any good. The first time you try to get gas up to your carbs all the residue accumulated in the tank will be sucked into the fuel and eventually clog it. Maybe not right away but it could happen when your miles away from home and then you've got the job of figuring where the problem is. My advise through experience is to take the tank out now, have a radiator company clean it up for you, test the lines inside , and after that you can decide if etching it and sealing the inside is worth it or should you just buy a new one. Look for the yearly sales, $150.00 can buy you a new one and you can rest easy. I have drained and siphone more gas from clogged tanks than I care to think about(not a good buzz or very healthy) Happy Holidays, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: Patton Dickson To: Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 9:59 AM Subject: Just bought a new car, so I'm back! > Hey everyone, > > Very few of you would remember me, but I was a member of this list until > the Spridget list was formed three or four years ago. I headed over there > as the list traffic was too much for me to keep up with on both > lists. Well a after couple of years, and moves later, I found myself > without an LBC for the first time in 17 years. Not that I was ever > anything more than a novice, but I had my 67 Sprite from High School till > February 2001, when we sold the car when moving to the Houston area. > > Anyhow, the bug bit me badly this week, and as unfortunate timing would > have it, a very good deal on a 67 MGB fell in my lap. This afternoon I > brought it home. It needs a lot, but it still pretty solid, no major rust, > the doors don't sag, and it's mostly all there. > > Well, I am building a game plan for the resurrection of the car. Over the > next couple of weeks, I am going to clean everything I can, as the car was > filthy. This way I can feel what I have gotten myself into. It is missing > the top bows and top, the interior will need replacing, and the door > windows are missing, but beside that everything seems to be there. All of > the glass was removed at some point and I will need all of the seals and > fuzzies also. BTW Does anyone have a no-headrest tonneau that they would > like to trade for one that does? > > I do need some hints on the best way to go about a couple of things. > > How do I charge the 6 volt batteries, just like a regular battery (with the > charger set to 6 Volts of course) but twice, or do I have to disconnect > them first? I am going to try and charge them, but I am almost sure they > will be bad, are they typically available locally? > > The PO had the car run for him the day he bought it and never tried to > start it again. Then they rigged a small tank for the gas as the gas was > old. That gas is still in there, even older. What is the best way to get > that gas out of there, and flush the tank? > > Which manuals and suppliers are the best? I will get the Bentley manual, > but are Haynes and others worth owning. I liked Motorhead for my Sprite as > they seem to carry more quality parts. George Merryweather also has gotten > a bit of my money in the past when I needed Moss stuff. > > Thanks, I look forward to hearing from you folks, picture of the car are on > my homepage (link below). I will say that a good bit that looks like rust > is just dirt. > > Patton /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 04:46:57 2001 From: "michelle pountney" To: Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 22:50:09 +1100 Subject: Re: Merry Christmas to all..... Hi guys..... well Santa has made his way past Australia and unfortunatly the MGA I have lusted after at MG workshops here in Melbourne didnt materialise in my driveway. Maybe I didnt make it clear enough in my letters to the cheery bloke in the red suit....Oh well there is always next year!!!..As he winds his way past you people in the US of A I wish you all merry christmas and happy holidays, and I hope you all have more luck with your Christmas wishes!!!!!..Be safe so that you can all continue to dispense wonderful advice on keeping my "new" baby running well. Thanks for all your advice on the bonnet...I'm trying a few of them....... Regards Mark Smith (AKA Smithy from Oz) Michelle Pountney 1968 MGB Mk1..... /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 08:48:15 2001 From: Patton Dickson To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" , Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 09:47:54 -0600 Subject: Re: Just bought a new car, so I'm back! Hi Mark At 11:54 AM 12/24/2001, Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote: >Hi Patton, > Welcome back. It has been recommended on the list to switch over >to a group 26 or 24-- 12volt(much cheaper too) and use only one of your >battery boxes and the other one for a plastic storage liner( spare oil >bottles) Watch the polarity, you may be positive ground. From the way the car was set up, it appears to have already been converted to Negative ground. The 6 volts took a charge, but I will replace with a group 26 before I try to put it on the road. I like the idea of using one of the battery trays for storage also. > Also it is doubtful that your gas tank is going to be any good. >The first time you try to get gas up to your carbs all the residue >accumulated in the tank will be sucked into the fuel and eventually clog it. I'm going to drain and flush it to see how bad it is, Nobody likes to be stranded, especially my wife! Thanks, Patton /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 08:59:14 2001 From: Patton Dickson To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 09:58:39 -0600 Subject: Getting the MGB started... Hey everyone. Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions, Well I got the car home Sunday, ordered manuals last night (Monday), so now I am trying to put together my to do list. I guess the first thing I am going to try to do is see if the engine starts. Here are the steps I am planning to take, am I forgetting anything? * Drain, remove fuel tank and clean out properly. * Disconnect fuel lines and blow old fuel out of line * Clean and Oil Carbs * Remove all four plugs and squirt small amount of oil into each cylinder * Leave plugs out, by hand, turn over engine multiple times to move around oil. * Install new plug (correctly gapped) and coil, points, cap, rotor, and wires. * Put in a fresh battery. * Clean and inspect all electrical connections in the ignition system * Fill carb bowls with fresh fuel * Drain oil, replace filter and refill with fresh oil. * Cross fingers and start cranking.... check for fuel leaks at fuel pump and lines. Verify oil level in crankcase not "growing". * Hope it starts, run for a little while, (hopefully) shut down drain and replace oil and filter again. * Any other words of wisdom before I start on my project.... If the car passes these tests and I get it running, brakes and steering will be next. Also, I put some new pictures on the web site if you want to check those out. Thanks Patton ------------------------------------ Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert 1967 MGB New Website!!!! All New Format!!! All New Location!!!! http://carport.virtualave.net/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 09:14:48 2001 From: "Larry B. Macy" To: MG List Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 11:14:07 -0500 Subject: Happy Holidays To One and All on this Christmas Day 2001 "Here's hoping the new year is a damn site better than the old one" Col. Potter Larry -- Larry Macy 78 Midget Keep your top down and your chin up. Larry B. Macy, Ph.D. macy@bbl.med.upenn.edu System Manager/Administrator Neuropsychiatry Section Department of Psychiatry University of Pennsylvania 3400 Spruce St. - 10 Gates Philadelphia, PA 19104 Ask a question and you're a fool for three minutes; do not ask a question and you're a fool for the rest of your life. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 09:18:53 2001 From: Paul Root To: Patton Dickson Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 04:04:29 -0600 Subject: Re: Getting the MGB started... You probably want to also check the point gap, condition of the rotor and distributor cap. And maybe check the static timing. Patton Dickson wrote: > > Hey everyone. Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions, > > Well I got the car home Sunday, ordered manuals last night (Monday), so now > I am trying to put together my to do list. I guess the first thing I am > going to try to do is see if the engine starts. Here are the steps I am > planning to take, am I forgetting anything? > > * Drain, remove fuel tank and clean out properly. > * Disconnect fuel lines and blow old fuel out of line > * Clean and Oil Carbs > * Remove all four plugs and squirt small amount of oil into each cylinder > * Leave plugs out, by hand, turn over engine multiple times to move > around oil. > * Install new plug (correctly gapped) and coil, points, cap, rotor, and > wires. > * Put in a fresh battery. > * Clean and inspect all electrical connections in the ignition system > * Fill carb bowls with fresh fuel > * Drain oil, replace filter and refill with fresh oil. > * Cross fingers and start cranking.... check for fuel leaks at fuel > pump and lines. Verify oil level in crankcase not "growing". > * Hope it starts, run for a little while, (hopefully) shut down drain > and replace oil and filter again. > * Any other words of wisdom before I start on my project.... > If the car passes these tests and I get it running, brakes and steering > will be next. > > Also, I put some new pictures on the web site if you want to check those out. > > Thanks > Patton > > ------------------------------------ > Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX > 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert > 1967 MGB > > New Website!!!! All New Format!!! All New Location!!!! > http://carport.virtualave.net/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 10:31:01 2001 From: Patton Dickson To: Paul Root Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 11:29:43 -0600 Subject: Re: Getting the MGB started... Thanks Paul, I am planning on replacing all of those with new parts. I thought about getting an ignitor, but I figure get it running right first, then start adding "upgrades". Thanks Patton At 04:04 AM 12/25/2001, Paul Root wrote: >You probably want to also check the point gap, condition of >the rotor and distributor cap. > >And maybe check the static timing. > ------------------------------------ Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert 1967 MGB New Website!!!! All New Format!!! All New Location!!!! http://carport.virtualave.net/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 11:14:43 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: Patton Dickson Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 11:21:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: Getting the MGB started... On Tue, 25 Dec 2001, Patton Dickson wrote: > * Cross fingers and start cranking.... check for fuel leaks at fuel > pump and lines. Verify oil level in crankcase not "growing". It should be an electric fuel pump, so you might want to check for the leaks before you crank it. The pump is probably worth giving a once over as well. Mine died on me the first summer I had it, in my drive way! My LBC was happy to have a new owner so it made it as easy as possilbe for me! Andrew /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 12:05:15 2001 From: "mghirsch" To: Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 13:04:36 -0600 Subject: Re: exhaust question The stock exhaust comes out about equal to the end of the bumper. Are you sure it's coming into the car from there? It could be any of the following: 1. There could be a leak somewhere else. With the car on a rack or jackstands, start the engine, and run your hands along the exhaust. Do not tough the pupe, it is hot. You will feel the exhaust wherever there is a leak. 2. Is there an oil leak? Oil dripping on the manifold or exhaust can cause similiar sypmtons. 3. Is there a leak around the gearshift? Engine smells and fumes can enter there. 4. Does your heater have the duct from the box to the front of the car? Good Luck. Maynard Hirsch /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 12:08:28 2001 From: "mghirsch" To: Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 13:08:03 -0600 Subject: Re: getting the MG started. The best thing to do after you done all the rest is to make sure there is oil pressure. Leave the plugs out, and crank the engine until there is oil pressure on the gauge. It may take 30-60 seconds if very dry. Then reinstall the plugs and start. This will make sure that there is oil in the passages and journals and will prevent a dry start. Maynard Hirsch /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 13:57:03 2001 From: mg-dennis@mindspring.com To: Patton Dickson Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 12:52:27 -0800 Subject: Re: Getting the MGB started... Dont forget to fill the radiator... And check all the hoses.. Dennis Cox 67 MGB Still in the body shop... Patton Dickson wrote: > Hey everyone. Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions, > > Well I got the car home Sunday, ordered manuals last night (Monday), so now > I am trying to put together my to do list. I guess the first thing I am > going to try to do is see if the engine starts. Here are the steps I am > planning to take, am I forgetting anything? > > * Drain, remove fuel tank and clean out properly. > * Disconnect fuel lines and blow old fuel out of line > * Clean and Oil Carbs > * Remove all four plugs and squirt small amount of oil into each cylinder > * Leave plugs out, by hand, turn over engine multiple times to move > around oil. > * Install new plug (correctly gapped) and coil, points, cap, rotor, and > wires. > * Put in a fresh battery. > * Clean and inspect all electrical connections in the ignition system > * Fill carb bowls with fresh fuel > * Drain oil, replace filter and refill with fresh oil. > * Cross fingers and start cranking.... check for fuel leaks at fuel > pump and lines. Verify oil level in crankcase not "growing". > * Hope it starts, run for a little while, (hopefully) shut down drain > and replace oil and filter again. > * Any other words of wisdom before I start on my project.... > If the car passes these tests and I get it running, brakes and steering > will be next. > > Also, I put some new pictures on the web site if you want to check those out. > > Thanks > Patton > > ------------------------------------ > Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX > 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert > 1967 MGB > > New Website!!!! All New Format!!! All New Location!!!! > http://carport.virtualave.net/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 20:44:24 2001 From: "Tim Economu" To: Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 21:58:22 -0800 Subject: loose bonnet >an uncommon thing here in Australia) the bonnet opened, thankfuly catching >on the safety catch. The question is why????The catch spring seems quite >ight as does the one on the bonnet itself. When its closed there is no play > I haven't heard it mentioned yet so I'll check in here. There are two rubber 'bumper' stops in the fender channel that softens the blow of the hood coming down. Check these pads....if they are not correctly placed (or have changed positions), they may keep the bonnet slightly raised only to pop up later on. Don't ask how I know this!! Feliz Navidad y Ano Nuevo!! Kind regards, Tim Economu 1969 MGB/GT mona /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Dec 25 20:56:59 2001 From: "Jerry Causey" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 10:56:06 -0800 Subject: Re: Getting the MGB started... Patton: Check out Barney Gaylord's tech pages at: http://users.ntsource.com/~barneymg/mgtech/index.htm and especially the article on starting a dormant engine: http://users.ntsource.com/~barneymg/mgtech/engine/de101a.htm He's an MGA driver, but most of the information on engines applies to the MGB as well, since they both use the B-series engine. Regards, Jerry Causey 1967 MGB GT > Hey everyone. Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions, > > Well I got the car home Sunday, ordered manuals last night (Monday), > so now I am trying to put together my to do list. I guess the first > thing I am going to try to do is see if the engine starts. Here are > the steps I am planning to take, am I forgetting anything? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 26 08:57:28 2001 From: Ajhsys@aol.com To: kpdii@softhome.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 10:56:05 EST Subject: Re: Getting the MGB started... In a message dated 12/25/01 11:00:08 AM Eastern Standard Time, kpdii@softhome.net writes: > * Any other words of wisdom before I start on my project.... - - - - - - - - - - - - - Drain, flush and refill the cooling system before starting. If the car has been sitting, you might want to remove the thermostat, which may be frozen shut. After you are satisfied that the engine doesn't need a rebuild, install a new thermostat and change the coolant again. And Happy New Year. Allen Hefner SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward '77 Midget '75 Midget "The Project" '92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 26 15:10:50 2001 From: Montgomery Morris To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 16:12:19 -0800 Subject: dizzy transfer Happy New Year all. I'm temporarily transfering a 45D dizzy with points into a 79B that has a 45DE4 dizzy with a Crane electronic ignition in it. The car has the smog control air pump disconnected. Is there anything that would need to be done besides unpluging the three wire plug from the elec. ignition and hooking the one wire from the 45D dizzy onto the positive post of the coil? What point gap should I use? Thanks, Monte /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 26 16:14:22 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 18:13:29 EST Subject: 4 wheel disc brakes A question for the list; I know that MG made a 4 wheel disc brake setup for the Twin Cam MGA car. And that a few left over MGA Twin Cam Chassis were made into MGA Deluxe Models. But are there any 4 wheel disc brake set ups made for the MGB? Does MOSS or Victoria British offer any? I would prefer to buy a complete set up to have everything right there in front of me. Or would the Disc brakes from a Rover 2000 swap over? I would like to put 4 wheel discs on my 1978 MGB this winter so I can race it this Spring and Summer 2002. -=Safety-Fast=- Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 26 18:00:41 2001 From: William Killeffer To: Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 20:07:50 -0500 Subject: adsorption canister hookup Hello Listers, After getting my renewed carbs back, I put them on and hooked up all the hoses and fuel lines. The car wouldn't start but the fuel pump worked. The carbs weren't getting fuel. I determined that the hose leading from the bowl vents to the canister was the problem. Unhooking it allowed the car to run fine. Even though my car has been desmogged otherwise, I would like to have the canister hooked up and working correctly to minimize fuel loss due to evaporation. I opened the canister and found it full of charcoal chips, but nothing seemed amiss. Another complication arose in that the canister outlet leads to an electric valve of some sort, which isn't hooked to anything. Where is it supposed to go? The car is a 1974 MGB with a 71 engine and HS4 carbs. Thanks for the help, -William Killeffer 1974 MGB 1993 BMW 325is 1993 Ford Explorer 1997 Cheverolet S-10 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 26 19:43:22 2001 From: "n" To: "MG Digest" Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 21:41:34 -0500 Subject: Need E-mail address I'm working on my laptop away from my desktop pc & don't have my email address book. I would appreciate it if one of you Listers would send me Dave Houser's email address. Dave is a frequent Digest contributor. Norm Sippel '66 MGB '59 Turner /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 26 19:46:42 2001 From: GW71MGB@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 21:46:09 EST Subject: Volvo 4 Cyl Turbo in a "B" Following along the thread of a few weeks ago about a W 1.8 liter - I was talking to a guy I know in a bar (so you know it must be true) the other day. He swears a friend of his dropped a Volvo 4 Cylinder Turbo into a B. Anyone hear of anyone doing this? -gary /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 26 22:13:58 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 15:42:49 +1030 Subject: Re: Volvo 4 Cyl Turbo in a B Gary: > > Following along the thread of a few weeks ago about a W 1.8 liter - I was > talking to a guy I know in a bar (so you know it must be true) the other day. > He swears a friend of his dropped a Volvo 4 Cylinder Turbo into a B. > The 'B would die of shame! (although many MG drivers wear hats, so....) Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 26 23:22:15 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: jschelli1@shaw.ca Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 01:19:50 EST Subject: Re: 4 wheel disc brakes Adam, Right...Inboard brakes like on my Jaguar XJ-6's. Darn...Still, I'm gonna keep on trying to locate a conversion kit so I can install a 4 wheel disc brake set-up on my 1978 MGB. There must be someone out there who knows someone whos done this kind of job before. Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 01:49:10 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 03:47:43 EST Subject: Re: Volvo 4 Cyl Turbo in a "B" In a message dated 12/26/01 6:48:11 PM Pacific Standard Time, GW71MGB@aol.com writes: > Following along the thread of a few weeks ago about a W 1.8 liter - I was > talking to a guy I know in a bar (so you know it must be true) the other > day. > He swears a friend of his dropped a Volvo 4 Cylinder Turbo into a B. > Anyone hear of anyone doing this? > -gary > > No, but last year I almost bought a 1968 MGB that had a Nissan/Datsun 4 cylinder engine & 5 speed transmission instead of the reliable "B" engine. Best regards Albert Escalante 1978 MGB ` /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 07:40:33 2001 From: "Mark Dawson" To: "MG Mailing List" Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 09:44:12 -0500 Subject: RE: adsorption canister hookup I hope you get a better answer than this, but here is as much as I know. I await other answers too, since I have a similar setup. Anyhow... I'm not sure what you mean by "the hose from the bowl vents to the cannister"... in my setup, they don't do that. Somebody PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong. I've tried my best to figure out the correct layout, since the way I bought it was obviously wrong: http://www.bones.org/torch/photos/mgb/mechanical/carbs_whats_this.html If I'm not mistaken, the adsorption cannister should be connected to the valve cover. The carbs are then connected to the crankcase breather. My understanding would be that the more-conecntrated unburnt stuff gets recycled into the carbs and burnt, whereas the less-concentrated vapors from the valve cover get recycled through the adsorption cannister. Even though the canister appears normal, I think it can still be blocked, fouled with gas varnish, oil, etc. Unfortunately a new one costs something like $140. Maybe listers who don't believe in them have a couple to sell us cheap? :-) But maybe it's just an old blocked hose? Also, the cannister is part of the larger fuel system, and thus should also be attached, via a short hose, to the rigid pipe from the fuel tank in the rear. If any of these hoses are old, cracked, or clogged, or the gas tank vent cap does/doesn't vent (I'm not sure which do and which don't), etc., that could all cause problems I guess. Here's where somebody with more knowledge steps in. :-) The "outlet" hose you described goes to the anti-run-on valve, if I'm not mistaken. There should also be a hose from the valve to the intake manifold (the smaller hose mount on the valve). Finally, there should be a large hose running from the bottom of the valve to pollute.... er, I mean, drain below the car. You can see these hoses here, I think (ignore the red circles - they are for something else). http://www.bones.org/torch/photos/mgb/mechanical/engine_compartment_1.html Hope that helps. Somebody let me know if I'm spewing BS. :-) -Mark Topless Smurf ('75 MGB): http://www.bones.org/torch/photos/mgb/mark_mgb_1.html > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of William Killeffer > Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 20:08 > To: mgs@autox.team.net > Subject: adsorption canister hookup > > > Hello Listers, > After getting my renewed carbs back, I put them on and hooked up all the > hoses and fuel lines. The car wouldn't start but the fuel pump worked. The > carbs weren't getting fuel. I determined that the hose leading > from the bowl > vents to the canister was the problem. Unhooking it allowed the car to run > fine. Even though my car has been desmogged otherwise, I would > like to have > the canister hooked up and working correctly to minimize fuel loss due to > evaporation. I opened the canister and found it full of charcoal > chips, but > nothing seemed amiss. Another complication arose in that the > canister outlet > leads to an electric valve of some sort, which isn't hooked to anything. > Where is it supposed to go? The car is a 1974 MGB with a 71 engine and HS4 > carbs. Thanks for the help, > > -William Killeffer > 1974 MGB > 1993 BMW 325is > 1993 Ford Explorer > 1997 Cheverolet S-10 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 07:48:28 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: torchbone@bright.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 09:44:19 -0500 Subject: RE: adsorption canister hookup The cannister is connected to three systems: fuel tank valve rocker cover carb bowls (float chambers) The problem here seems that the fuel pumps cannot pump the fuel into the float chambers. As the quick solution described this issue went away after releasing the connection with the absorbtion cannister. Most probable cause here is a clogged tube from the bowl(s) to the cannister. Depending of the vraiants you have in this system there might be trouble with the anti run-on valve connected to the same cannister, but a '71 B does not have this. Cheers, Hans '71 BGT with still all this stuff connected and working well Mitsubishi Galant '87 Chrysler Voyager '00 -----Original Message----- From: Mark Dawson [mailto:torchbone@bright.net] Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 3:44 PM To: MG Mailing List Subject: RE: adsorption canister hookup I hope you get a better answer than this, but here is as much as I know. I await other answers too, since I have a similar setup. Anyhow... I'm not sure what you mean by "the hose from the bowl vents to the cannister"... in my setup, they don't do that. Somebody PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong. I've tried my best to figure out the correct layout, since the way I bought it was obviously wrong: http://www.bones.org/torch/photos/mgb/mechanical/carbs_whats_this.html If I'm not mistaken, the adsorption cannister should be connected to the valve cover. The carbs are then connected to the crankcase breather. My understanding would be that the more-conecntrated unburnt stuff gets recycled into the carbs and burnt, whereas the less-concentrated vapors from the valve cover get recycled through the adsorption cannister. Even though the canister appears normal, I think it can still be blocked, fouled with gas varnish, oil, etc. Unfortunately a new one costs something like $140. Maybe listers who don't believe in them have a couple to sell us cheap? :-) But maybe it's just an old blocked hose? Also, the cannister is part of the larger fuel system, and thus should also be attached, via a short hose, to the rigid pipe from the fuel tank in the rear. If any of these hoses are old, cracked, or clogged, or the gas tank vent cap does/doesn't vent (I'm not sure which do and which don't), etc., that could all cause problems I guess. Here's where somebody with more knowledge steps in. :-) The "outlet" hose you described goes to the anti-run-on valve, if I'm not mistaken. There should also be a hose from the valve to the intake manifold (the smaller hose mount on the valve). Finally, there should be a large hose running from the bottom of the valve to pollute.... er, I mean, drain below the car. You can see these hoses here, I think (ignore the red circles - they are for something else). http://www.bones.org/torch/photos/mgb/mechanical/engine_compartment_1.html Hope that helps. Somebody let me know if I'm spewing BS. :-) -Mark Topless Smurf ('75 MGB): http://www.bones.org/torch/photos/mgb/mark_mgb_1.html > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of William Killeffer > Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 20:08 > To: mgs@autox.team.net > Subject: adsorption canister hookup > > > Hello Listers, > After getting my renewed carbs back, I put them on and hooked up all the > hoses and fuel lines. The car wouldn't start but the fuel pump worked. The > carbs weren't getting fuel. I determined that the hose leading > from the bowl > vents to the canister was the problem. Unhooking it allowed the car to run > fine. Even though my car has been desmogged otherwise, I would > like to have > the canister hooked up and working correctly to minimize fuel loss due to > evaporation. I opened the canister and found it full of charcoal > chips, but > nothing seemed amiss. Another complication arose in that the > canister outlet > leads to an electric valve of some sort, which isn't hooked to anything. > Where is it supposed to go? The car is a 1974 MGB with a 71 engine and HS4 > carbs. Thanks for the help, > > -William Killeffer > 1974 MGB > 1993 BMW 325is > 1993 Ford Explorer > 1997 Cheverolet S-10 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 09:32:26 2001 From: "mghirsch" To: Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 10:29:10 -0600 Subject: Re: Volvo 4 cyl turbo in a B It is quite possible that the Datsun/Nissan engine in a B is true. The Datsun Fair Lady had an engine built under license from Brithish Leyland. In fact, some parts, such as the camshaft, were interchangeable with the B engine. Maynard Hirsch /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 10:04:44 2001 From: Barrie Robinson To: mgs@autox.team.net, mgb-v8@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 12:03:58 -0500 Subject: Ian Pender I tried to send an email to Ian Pender at eightup@worldnet.att.net but it came back undelivered. Ian if you are out there please get in touch - I need some gas struts for my MGB Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 12:42:47 2001 From: "David Hill" To: , Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 19:42:00 -0000 Subject: Re: 4 wheel disc brakes Hi, Albert. I'm glad it's for racing; the rear drums on my B lock up quite easily on the road! Working from memory, Jaguar S type, E Type and XJ and Rover 2000 rear discs are all inboard and impossible to fit to a live axle. I don't know if anyone does a kit but there are many modern cars using outboard rear discs with handbrake facility; with some trick machining (and a limiter!) it should be possible to make one of these sets fit... VW Golf/Scirocco Rover 200/400 series Ford Sierra (not all models) Any one of a number of imports, e.g. Japanese, German, Italian... Most, if not all, are single cylinder 'Colette' type calipers with a lever actuated eccentric cam to work the handbrake. Just two points. Some cars (Volvo, Vauxhall/Opel/GM) use handbrake shoes that operate inside the 'top hat' shape of the disc - could be tricky for space on a B. Also, Bendix rear disc setups - Fiat 124, Renault Alpine and Matra - use a plunger handbrake with bellvill washers to act as a return 'spring'. Happliy, you probably won't be able to find any of these because they are a pain in the a**, for leaking, seizing, causing brake pull and generally being useless. Dave Hill '72 BGT Former owner of Fiat 124 Coupes, Matra Bagheera...and a Jaguar-based Cobra replica with a hydraulic handbrake (tsk!) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 11:13 PM Subject: 4 wheel disc brakes > A question for the list; > I know that MG made a 4 wheel disc brake setup for the Twin Cam MGA car. And > that a few left over MGA Twin Cam Chassis were made into MGA Deluxe Models. > But are there any 4 wheel disc brake set ups made for the MGB? Does MOSS or > Victoria British offer any? I would prefer to buy a complete set up to have > everything right there in front of me. Or would the Disc brakes from a Rover > 2000 swap over? I would like to put 4 wheel discs on my 1978 MGB this winter > so I can race it this Spring and Summer 2002. -=Safety-Fast=- > > Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not > running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 13:35:17 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: davhill@btinternet.com Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 15:34:30 EST Subject: Re: 4 wheel disc brakes Dave, Thanks for your input. By the way, looking at the "exploded" drawings in the various parts houses catalogues it appears as if the front disc brake backing plates with their 4-hole bolt pattern would probably just bolt right up to the rear axle. But I don't or won't know until I try it on a real axle assembly. But for every day use I'm thinking that maybe it might be too much hassle for what the end results would achieve. But for Vintage Car Rallies and Road Racing I feel that 4 wheel disc brakes are the ticket. I'll go down to a friends house tomorrow and try to see if they'll work out. I'll be Keepin in touch, Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 13:34:11 2001 From: Paul Root To: mghirsch Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 14:32:52 -0600 Subject: Re: Volvo 4 cyl turbo in a B mghirsch wrote: > > It is quite possible that the Datsun/Nissan engine in a B is true. The Datsun > Fair Lady had an engine built under license from Brithish Leyland. In fact, > some parts, such as the camshaft, were interchangeable with the B engine. > > Maynard Hirsch My brother had a 1600 Roadster when we were kids. And an old guy told him that the heads were interchangeable. They are not. I don't know about camshafts. The old 1600 engine originally went into a forklift, unlike the exhaulted past of old triumph engines. :-) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 14:36:29 2001 From: Philip E Bacon To: mgs@autox.team.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 16:32:00 -0500 Subject: Calendar Listerati: I am working on our club's activity calendar for the coming year and was wondering if any Florida listers could tell me the dates of the following shows: : Lake Helen British Car Show (March ? ) Winter Park British Car Show (April ?) Fox Lake BCS (September ?) Picnic Island BCS, Tampa (October ?) British Classic in St Augustine (October ?) MG Rendezvous South (Fall ?) Thanks for the help. Phil Bacon, Gold Coast Triumph & British Sports Car Club ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 17:11:14 2001 From: "David Hill" To: Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 00:09:15 -0000 Subject: Re: 4 wheel disc brakes My pleasure, Albert. Do you mean the discs themselves, or just the thin metal dust shields? Assuming you mean the actual discs they should, in theory, fit the the rear hubs simply through having the same bolt pattern. However, there is the question of how the offset would suit and whether the centre hole would be the right size. Just thinking aloud, I'd suggest considering these apsects... 1. Taking a bare axle end, maybe use a ring of sheet steel the same thickness as the old brake back plate to keep the bearing location as original. This would equal axle end, hub retainer and hub, with the old backplate out of the way. 2. Trying on a disc to see if it fits and clears everything. If not, can any fouling be relieved without compromising the strength of the axle? Would it be necessary to pack behind the disc with shims? Will it clear the wheel? 3. Trying some different calipers to see how the cast 'bridge' can be attached to the B axle, possibly with the four, 3/8" UNF hub retaining bolts and some sort of collar. 4. Finding if the brake cable run could be acommodated within the wheel? 5. Thinking about an adjustable limiter. This could be done with a dual master cylinder/balance bar arrangement but the Mini limiter can be made adjustable by adding a bolt in the 'dry' end to alter the preload of the spring inside - much cheaper. Hope this helps - wonder if anyone's carried out the conversion already? All the best, Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 8:34 PM Subject: Re: 4 wheel disc brakes > Dave, > Thanks for your input. By the way, looking at the "exploded" drawings in the > various parts houses catalogues it appears as if the front disc brake backing > plates with their 4-hole bolt pattern would probably just bolt right up to > the rear axle. But I don't or won't know until I try it on a real axle > assembly. But for every day use I'm thinking that maybe it might be too much > hassle for what the end results would achieve. But for Vintage Car Rallies > and Road Racing I feel that 4 wheel disc brakes are the ticket. I'll go down > to a friends house tomorrow and try to see if they'll work out. > I'll be Keepin in touch, > > > Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not > running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 18:46:38 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: davhill@btinternet.com Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 20:45:45 EST Subject: Re: 4 wheel disc brakes Thanks Dave, That was really a great platform to start from. Your insights and questions are pretty much the same as I would have listed, had I the mechanical aptitude that you obviously enjoy. No, I'm more of a theorist than a mechanic so I find your How-to's most helpful. I do have a practical side however and can search the Internet finding data like:>> http://www.mgcars.org.uk/v8_conversions/files/brake/rdisc.html<< which shows the actual application of rear disc brakes on an MGB rear axle. Check it out. I've actually requested further information from the Website manager since the above article is more of a pictorial essay with sparse wording. After I get the information I've requested, then with what you and others have supplied I should have enough to start the rear wheel Disc Brake Conversion with plenty of handy information and pertinent data. I really want to sincerely thank all of you for your great help. Graci! Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 19:07:11 2001 From: RobMGB@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 21:06:26 EST Subject: Re: adsorption canister hookup The canister can be taken apart and the charcoal filter material inside replaced with that from a pet store for an aquarium filter. RobMGB 74B /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 19:22:09 2001 From: "ptegler@cablespeed" To: Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 21:25:41 -0500 Subject: BMC on speedvision right now... 9-9:30 pm east coast time on Speed Vision... been watching the BMC record speed runs and the Histoty of BMC Love it! it's still on! (9:24pm dst) ptegler /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 21:30:46 2001 From: "Jerry Causey" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 20:29:21 -0800 Subject: Re: Ian Pender /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Dec 27 21:44:33 2001 From: "Jerry Causey" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 20:43:43 -0800 Subject: OOPS! was Re: Ian Pender Looks like I didn't edit quite enough of Barry's message, or at least the boiler plate underneath it. The gist of my response was: Ian Pender's URL is now http://www.geocities.com/fla_eightup/ and his email is eightup@thenuthouse.net (Really!!!) Regards, Jerry > > Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT > be sent. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 06:32:21 2001 From: To: "Montgomery Morris" , Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 13:11:03 -0000 Subject: Re: dizzy transfer Just make sure which coil you have, and make sure you have the appropriate voltage feed to it. A 12v coil typically measures about 3 ohms, a 6v coil typically about 1.5. The 6v coil will require a ballast of similar resistance, this was originally provided within the loom and had two light-green white wires on the coil +ve. One was the ballasted supply, the other goes to the boost terminal on the solenoid. The cooil -ve should have two white/black wires, one to the points and the other to the tach. The points gap was always .014 - .016, which gives a dwell of 51 +-5 on a 45D. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Montgomery Morris" To: Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 12:12 AM Subject: dizzy transfer > I'm temporarily transfering a 45D dizzy with points into a 79B that has a > 45DE4 dizzy with a Crane electronic ignition in it. The car has the smog > control air pump disconnected. > Is there anything that would need to be done besides unpluging the three > wire plug from the elec. ignition and hooking the one wire from the 45D > dizzy onto the positive post of the coil? > > What point gap should I use? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 06:33:28 2001 From: To: "William Killeffer" , Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 13:02:33 -0000 Subject: Re: adsorption canister hookup In addition to the replies on the canister and hoses: The valve is the anti-runon valve, which wasn't fitted until 1973 so is not applicable to your engine, it all depends which emissions kit you have - 71 or 74. The 1973 cars had a two-port valve, some time after that it became a three-port, AFAIK the electrical information for the valve at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_runonframe.htm (select the 2nd and 3rd links at the top of that page) is applicable to both. Not sure how the two-port was plumbed in although one probably went to the float-chamber. The three-port went to the cannister, the float-chamber, and the open air. ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Killeffer" To: Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 1:07 AM Subject: adsorption canister hookup > ... Another complication arose in that the canister outlet > leads to an electric valve of some sort, which isn't hooked to anything. > Where is it supposed to go? The car is a 1974 MGB with a 71 engine and HS4 > carbs. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 11:53:23 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: GB127167@exchange.daytonoh.ncr.com Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 13:51:51 EST Subject: Re: 4 wheel disc brakes gerry, You asked >>First question I have to ask you is WHY ?<< When I said that I'd like to switch to a 4-wheel disc brake system, 1.)the main reason is probably to help minimize brake fade and overheating which could result in less brake response and 2.) my ability to optimize the use of my rear brakes as another means of vehicle control or stability, in case of rear wheel drift, etc. 3.) aesthetically, they(disc brakes) just look more "race car" like than the conventional drum brakes. When I first purchased my MGB I just took it for granted that it probably had 4 wheel discs , only to do a double take when I realized that the back brakes were of the drum variety. Heck, even the Peugeot 505 Turbo-Diesel that I use as my go for vehicle has 4-wheel disc's and its not the fastest car around by any stretch of the imagination. Anyway, that's my defense. I rest my case. (Ha, Ha!) {8^) Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 12:07:48 2001 From: "David Hill" To: Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 19:06:57 -0000 Subject: Re: 4 wheel disc brakes Hello, Albert. >From the pics, it looks like the caliper bracket replaces the bearing retainer and must therefore carry the hub oil seal - clever! I'd be inclined to suggest that making such brackets from scratch would be a costly and frustrating business. I expect it could be done but are these brackets, or indeed the entire conversion available to buy? I think this may be so; who'd make up patterns for one-off castings? I reckon that making up the hub rings from steel stock, then having the bracket sections MIG or TIG welded in place, plus the refacing necessary to take out welding distortion would be an expensive business. Plus, in steel, the whole assembly would probably be considerably heavier than a pair of drums, not only increasing the unsprung weight but, arguably, upsetting the car's polar moment of inertia. Whethet this would be significant would involve knowing how much extra weight is involved. Given the costs of machining and fabrication, I'd check this out - you may well find it cheaper in the long run. Please let me know what you find out. Cheers, Dave. > Thanks Dave, > That was really a great platform to start from. Your insights and questions > are pretty much the same as I would have listed, had I the mechanical > aptitude that you obviously enjoy. No, I'm more of a theorist than a mechanic > so I find your How-to's most helpful. I do have a practical side however and > can search the Internet finding data like:>> > http://www.mgcars.org.uk/v8_conversions/files/brake/rdisc.html<< which shows > the actual application of rear disc brakes on an MGB rear axle. Check it out. > I've actually requested further information from the Website manager since > the above article is more of a pictorial essay with sparse wording. After I > get the information I've requested, then with what you and others have > supplied I should have enough to start the rear wheel Disc Brake Conversion > with plenty of handy information and pertinent data. I really want to > sincerely thank all of you for your great help. Graci! > Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not > running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 12:52:51 2001 From: "Mike Nordling" To: Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 14:51:40 -0500 Subject: Help!... Questions Hi! Newbie here to the list. Grew up in a 1966 B and now in process of buying a 71 MGB in Massachusetts. Starting my mid life crisis early! I have a few questions for the old school listers..... #1. The chassis number shows car as a July 1971 However, the interior has the dash with glovebox and grille is the 73 honeycomb style. Also has the full length tunnel console. The number on the plate matches the VIN number under windshield. Can't see the engine number yet. What IS this car?? #2. Steering wheel has some play in it. Can be wiggled forward in back (pistoning) and slightly up and down (rocking) Any thoughts? #3 Needs carpet kit and door panels. What company sells the best quality and fit for these items? Thanks. look forward to your advice. Mike /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 13:14:02 2001 From: "Rick Brown" To: "mglist" Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 15:13:09 -0500 Subject: EVENTS I will be updating my Events page on the MGCOUNCIL OF NORTH AMERICA website. If you know of any events not already listed please apprise me by return email ASAP. Please send in the following format - DATES, CITY, STATE, NAME OF EVENT, COMMENTS, EMAIL CONTACT, WEBSITE FOR EVENT (IF ANY) e.g. July 17-21, 2002 - Charlottesville, Virginia - NAMGAR's GT 27 - Each year NAMGAR has a GT (Get Together) this year it will be held at Charlottesville. The Hotel for the event is the Omni Hotel, 235 Main Street, Charlottesville, VA 22902 phone 804.971.5500 to make reservations. Be sure to advise them that you will be attending the NAMGAR GT 27 for the special room rate. All questions on the GT should be directed to Bruce Woodson at cvmga@aol.com. Normally we get about 146 MGA's at the annual GTs but with this location and venue we expect a huge turnout. This year we will also have a class for Other British at the car show - so if you do not have an MGA or Variant bring your MGB or Triumph or what have you. If you come you will find out why Virginia is for MGA Lovers! Thanks Rick --------- http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil ---------- http://members.home.net/brown409 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 13:25:30 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'Mike Nordling'" , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 12:25:23 -0800 Subject: RE: Help!... Questions Mike: Welcome to the list. Congratulations on your new B. 1. It is very difficult to change the two factory Vin plates on a 68- car, so chances are they are original. The rivets holding the plates should be steel and have no evidence of a central pin. It sounds like the past owner updated the car with 73 model year components. It's very common and a matter of personal taste. Personally I prefer the later dash and grille. All of the components are bolt in's with the exception of the dash face vents. For these to be operational, holes must be punched into the fresh air plenum. You might crawl under the dash to see if this was done, and how well. 2. The upper steering column bearing has a pressed steel race and tends to wear. So far I'm not aware of an easy fix. I've never seen one actually fall apart, so I don't believe it is a safety issue, but the banging is a nuisance. Stay tuned, we are working on some kind of replacement bearing assembly to fix this problem. 3. Original heat seamed door panels and seat kits for the B are all made by a couple of manufacturers in the UK. Quality, fit and finish seem to be on a par with the originals. Redoing the door caps is the most difficult part of the whole job. New caps are available, but cubic dollars. I'd strongly suggest if you don't buy new caps, to have an upholstery shop redo your old ones with the material that comes in the panel kits. The material has to be stretched just right, and special staples make the job tidier. Carpets? The regular off the shelf kits divide into molded or flat. The material for each is pretty similar, cut pile with a rubberized backing. The molded kits are far easier to fit over the rear wheel wells and tunnel. The condition of the original tunnel felt is what I use to decide molded vs flat. If the tunnel felt is in good condition, it is not too difficult to mold the flat carpet over it. I am a bit disatisfied with the last molded kit I installed, as it had wrinkles molded into it. Not much of a step forward. IMPORTANT. Most modern carpet has a ruberized backing that the loops of pile are pushed through. When installing DO NOT attempt to pull a glued piece of carpet up. The pile will stay stuck to the glue and you will be very unhappy. Hope this helps, now back to work. Kelvin Dodd Ventura, CA 79/65 MGB > Hi! Newbie here to the list. Grew up in a 1966 B and now in > process of > buying a 71 MGB in Massachusetts. Starting my mid life crisis > early! I have > a few questions for the old school listers..... > > #1. The chassis number shows car as a July 1971 However, the > interior has > the dash with glovebox and grille is the 73 honeycomb style. > Also has the > full length tunnel console. The number on the plate matches > the VIN number > under windshield. Can't see the engine number yet. What IS > this car?? > > #2. Steering wheel has some play in it. Can be wiggled > forward in back > (pistoning) and slightly up and down (rocking) Any thoughts? > > #3 Needs carpet kit and door panels. What company sells the > best quality > and fit for these items? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 16:22:23 2001 From: Patton Dickson To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 17:20:26 -0600 Subject: Replacing a lost car number plate The number plate on my newly acquired '67 MGB was removed by the PPO (Prior Previous Owner) when he was preparing the car for paint and was put back on with bolts. Apparently , those bolts were not on there very tight and they (along with the plate) came loose and fell off the car on the way home Sunday. We looked both there and here, plus the floor of the trailer, so it must be somewhere on the highway between here and Alvin, TX. I know that Moss, and others, sell replacements plates for ~$5.00 so I will order one of those. A couple questions about using a replacements. I know the correct body (VIN) number for the car from the title. What is the correct way it is written with as far as where the spaces, "/"'s and "-"'s would go? All I have from the title is GHN3L112###, I think it should go G-HN3-L/112### . That is right? What is the best place to get it stamped on the plate so it looks right? What is the best way to attach it to the car? I don't want to just pop rivet it (unless that's right) Which way does the writing face? Thanks Patton ------------------------------------ Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert 1967 MGB New Website!!!! All New Format!!! All New Location!!!! http://carport.virtualave.net/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 17:45:41 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: kpdii@softhome.net Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 19:44:16 EST Subject: Re: Replacing a lost car number plate Alvin, I made a quick review of where VIN numbers are placed according to "Original MGB" With MGC and MGB GT V8 by Ditlev Clausager (Bay View Books/1994) And the year 1967 was divided into early and late 1967. Early '67 Mk. I MGB shows 1 (one) VIN plate and it's a rectangular plate mounted standing vertically with the MG logo at the top end. It appears to run parallel with the inner wing valance radiator support.The Late '67 Mk.II MGB's show 2 (two) plates that are rectangular but with rounded ends, these were mounted horizontally (long ways) just below where the fender (wing) is bolted to the inner wing. Anyway its on page 121 (The identification section starts at page 118.) I hope this hasn't thoroughly confused you. Albert Escalante 1978 MGB /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 18:35:18 2001 From: Patton Dickson To: Aeseeyou@aol.com Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 19:33:53 -0600 Subject: Re: Replacing a lost car number plate Albert and Group, If I understand right, from the orientation of the plate holes, I have an early. (It stands on end). Any suggestion on where to get it stamped and how to attach it short of pop rivets? How can I tell for sure if my 1967 is a Mk. I or Mk. II MGB? Here are my car's numbers: Car Number GHN3 / 112153 Body Number MGB 096764 Engine Number 18V672Z-L26266 I can't wait till my catalogs and manuals get here as I have no reference material outside the web. Thanks Patton At 06:44 PM 12/28/2001, Aeseeyou@aol.com wrote: >I made a quick review of where VIN numbers are placed according to "Original >MGB" With MGC and MGB GT V8 by Ditlev Clausager (Bay View Books/1994) And the >year 1967 was divided into early and late 1967. Early '67 Mk. I MGB shows 1 >(one) VIN plate and it's a rectangular plate mounted standing vertically with >the MG logo at the top end. It appears to run parallel with the inner wing >valance radiator support.The Late '67 Mk.II MGB's show 2 (two) plates that >are rectangular but with rounded ends, these were mounted horizontally (long >ways) just below where the fender (wing) is bolted to the inner wing. Anyway >its on page 121 (The identification section starts at page 118.) I hope this >hasn't thoroughly confused you. Albert Escalante 1978 MGB ------------------------------------ Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert 1967 MGB New Website!!!! All New Format!!! All New Location!!!! http://carport.virtualave.net/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 18:52:37 2001 From: "Rick Brown" To: Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 20:51:16 -0500 Subject: Re: Replacing a lost car number plate According to Clausinger your engine was made between Aug 71 - Aug 72 and the car between Jan 67 - Oct 67. Mark II models started in November 67 so it would appear you have a MK1. Rick --------- http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil ---------- http://members.home.net/brown409 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patton Dickson" To: Cc: Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 8:33 PM Subject: Re: Replacing a lost car number plate > Albert and Group, > > If I understand right, from the orientation of the plate holes, I have an > early. (It stands on end). Any suggestion on where to get it stamped and > how to attach it short of pop rivets? > > How can I tell for sure if my 1967 is a Mk. I or Mk. II MGB? Here are my > car's numbers: > > Car Number GHN3 / 112153 > Body Number MGB 096764 > Engine Number 18V672Z-L26266 > > I can't wait till my catalogs and manuals get here as I have no reference > material outside the web. > > Thanks > Patton /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 19:29:20 2001 From: "E.Claure" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 22:31:11 -0400 Subject: Replacing Camshaft Steps Hi list, Tomorrow is D day for my Cam replacement. I will start early and hopefully will be done by night fall. Question, in order to remove the Push Rods, must I remove the rocker assembly? Here are the steps I got from the list some weeks ago. Any thing missing? 1. Drain Radiator and Remove 2. Rotate engine to TDC #1 3. Mark Dizzy position and remove 4. Remove dizzy drive gear 5. Remove front cover 6. Remove chain tensioner 7. Remove Chain 8. Remove Rocker Assembly 9. Pull out rods 10. Remove tappet covers and tappets. Thanks and happy new year. Enrique /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 19:33:31 2001 From: "n" To: "MG Digest" Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 21:31:09 -0500 Subject: : 4 wheel disc brakes Albert Escalante asks about adding disc brakes to the rear of his '78 B. Albert, if you are planning to vintage race your '78 B, you need to check all of your local vintage racing groups to see if you can do that. SVRA won't allow it. In fact, most organizations won't let production cars that new race. Typical cut-off dates are '67, '72, '74. Seems to me I saw rear brake conversion kits in a catalog recently. Could have been FAB-TEK, Brit-Tek, Moss or Vic Brit. Don't remember & I don't have my catalog files nearby. Check them out. The reality is that unless you are racing in SCCA E-Production, you might as well stick to rear drums with better linings and a proportioning valve. Norm Sippel '66 MGB daily driver, occasional vintage racer - SVRA & HSR /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 19:43:29 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: kpdii@softhome.net Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 21:42:11 EST Subject: Re: Replacing a lost car number plate Patton(where the heck did I get Alvin from?) The early 1967 Mk.I MGB's rectangular VIN plates attached with small pan head self tapping sheet metal screws. No need for rivits. Car number (VIN) on top, engine number on bottom of the open metal colored field. The MG logo was in the upper left corner. Hope this helps Albert Escalante 1978 MGB; 1957 3.4 litre (Mk.I) 1977 XJ-6L; 1985 XJ-6 (not running) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 20:18:09 2001 From: Eric To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 13:49:46 +1030 Subject: ZR in situ Hey, I want one of these! http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cambs.mgoc/images-mgx/kittensZR.jpg Hmmm, and the cars look OK, too! -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 22:27:06 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: "E.Claure" , Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 22:26:22 -0700 Subject: Re: Replacing Camshaft Steps On Fri, 28 Dec 2001 22:31:11 -0400, E.Claure wrote: >Tomorrow is D day for my Cam replacement. I will start early and hopefully >will be done by night fall. > >Question, in order to remove the Push Rods, must I remove the rocker assembly? IIRC, there is no other way. keep track of the bolts. they are different sizes. To remove those, I think, am not sure, that you will be loosening some of the head bolts. If that is correct, do them all in the right order to avoid warping it. > >Here are the steps I got from the list some weeks ago. Any thing missing? If not already done, yes, A Carbs B exhaust manafold C valve cover and upper heater core hose. If you remove the tappet chest covers before the dizzy, the long bolt is the correct size thread and length to remove the dizzy drive gear. I.E. (using your numbers from below and my letters from above) 1 2 3 A B C 10a 4 ... > >1. Drain Radiator and Remove >2. Rotate engine to TDC #1 >3. Mark Dizzy position and remove >4. Remove dizzy drive gear >5. Remove front cover >6. Remove chain tensioner >7. Remove Chain >8. Remove Rocker Assembly >9. Pull out rods >10a. Remove tappet covers and >10b. tappets. -- Andrew Lundgren lundgren@byu.net http://lundgren.denver.co.us /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Dec 28 22:57:44 2001 From: "mgamgb" To: "Andrew B. Lundgren" , Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 18:56:00 +1300 Subject: Re: Replacing Camshaft Steps "Question, in order to remove the Push Rods, must I remove the rocker assembly?" If its a standard MGB (with spacer springs), no need to remove rocker gear. Proceed as if adjusting clearances, ie work on no 1 rocker with valve no 8 fully open. Loosen adjuster screw all the way back, slide rocker sideways against spacer spring and remove push rod for rockers 2 to 7. For no 1 and 8, remove the split pin and washers, remove rocker. Cheers Ian f /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 04:37:06 2001 From: To: "Mike Nordling" , Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 11:29:15 -0000 Subject: Re: Help!... Questions The 1972 model year which began in Aug 71 with chassis number 258001 had a new console and dash with glovebox and air vents. They would take quite a lot of work to change from an earlier car for not much benefit IMHO. Change-points were a moveable feast and could be later or earlier than the documented point depending on when the old stock ran out. The change of grill is an easier - given that one has to close up the holes in bonnet and wings for the surrounding trim - proposition and not uncommon, although most changees go for the original slatted grill. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Nordling" To: Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 7:51 PM Subject: Help!... Questions > #1. The chassis number shows car as a July 1971 However, the interior has > the dash with glovebox and grille is the 73 honeycomb style. Also has the > full length tunnel console. The number on the plate matches the VIN number > under windshield. Can't see the engine number yet. What IS this car?? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 06:45:18 2001 From: RobMGB@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 08:42:55 EST Subject: Heater Control knobs One of my heater control knobs broke on my 74CBB. The catalogs I have don't list a replacement for 74 but do have ones listed for earlier and later models. How different are they and which should I order? RobMGB 74B /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 08:47:56 2001 From: "Tuck Southworth" To: spanlab@ceibo.entelnet.bo, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 10:45:41 -0500 Subject: Re: Replacing Camshaft Steps /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 14:10:26 2001 From: Dave Quirt To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 15:09:44 -0600 Subject: Twin Lake area (MI) Listers: Is there anyone on the list who lives/works close to Grand Rapids/Muskegon, MI?? I need to have someone check up on an item that I bought a while ago from a guy in Twin Lake, MI (49457)!! Thanks, Dave Q. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 14:21:53 2001 From: James Schulte To: "Mgs@autox.team.net" Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 16:18:53 -0800 Subject: St. Paul area Listers, Anyone in the St. Paul MN. area that could check on an MG in Bear Lake, MN. for me. Please contact me off line. TIA Jim /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 15:42:14 2001 From: "wcameyer" To: "MG LIST" Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 19:56:47 -0700 Subject: Zero Oil Pressure Just turned over the 18V engine (1974) I put in my '67B. No oil pressure! Last time I did a rebuild, the same thing happened and I discovered I had used the wrong oil pump gasket. I remember being glad it was on the '77, because you can remove the oil pan w/o pulling the engine. This time I was especially careful to check gaskets, although I was not clear on the difference. SO: 1. Can anybody please explain the difference. 2. What else should I look for? 3. Is it possible to pull the pan after loosening the engine mounts and jacking up the engine a bit? HELP!!! Bill Meyer /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 16:34:49 2001 From: "Kai M. Radicke" To: "wcameyer" , "MG LIST" Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 18:52:14 -0500 Subject: Re: Zero Oil Pressure > 2. What else should I look for? Unlikely to be the cause but still possible as it happened to me, the bloody oil pressure relief valve piston got stuck in its bore. As part of a late Midget engine refreshing, I replaced the bearings as well as the relief valve and spring. Well apparently the relief valve piston from Moss (this was the summer of 2000) was ever so slightly larger in diameter on the head, thus resulting in it getting stuck in the bore. As with all rebuilds, it is advisable to keep the old parts until you are sure the new parts are working properly. In my case, it was useful to compare the old relief valve piston with the new (for measurement). I then ended up polishing the entire OLD relief valve piston and reinstalling it with the new spring, and I immediately had satisfactory oil pressure once again. Although, it was a scary few minutes when I thought I'd have to drop the pan and look at all the bearings again! Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 17:44:28 2001 From: Robert Sexson To: MGB Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 16:42:37 -0800 (PST) Subject: Old B parts 74.5 I need to free up some storage space. I held on to all the old parts when i rebuilt the B., some good and some not. I'll have to send to the dump if no one wants them. R. Sexson 74.5 B 74 Midgrt P.S. I saw an oil spot, on the floor, under the B. It didn't leak for a year and a half. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 18:10:32 2001 From: "Larry Hoy" To: "'MG Digest'" Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 18:09:07 -0700 Subject: RE: 4 wheel disc brakes Norm's right. Call Dave Headley at 970-564-5822 he's a good guy and I just noticed that in his product guide he has a disc brake conversion kit for $595. Larry Hoy > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net > [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of n > Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 7:31 PM Norm wrote: > Seems to me I saw rear brake conversion kits in a catalog > recently. Could have been FAB-TEK, Brit-Tek, Moss or Vic > Brit. Don't remember & I don't have my catalog files nearby. > Check them out. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 18:38:21 2001 From: "Kai M. Radicke" To: "Larry Hoy" , "'MG Digest'" Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 20:55:50 -0500 Subject: Re: 4 wheel disc brakes > Norm's right. Call Dave Headley at 970-564-5822 he's a good guy and > I just noticed that in his product guide he has a disc brake conversion > kit for $595. > > Larry Hoy Or you can contact Dave Headley through his website... http://www.fast-mg.com/ Pics of disc brake conversion may be up there as well. Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 19:23:14 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: "MGB" , "Robert Sexson" Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 19:21:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: Old B parts 74.5 Was it dry? :) On Sat, 29 Dec 2001 16:42:37 -0800 (PST), Robert Sexson wrote: >R. Sexson >74.5 B >74 Midgrt > >P.S. I saw an oil spot, on the floor, under the B. It >didn't leak for a year and a half. -- Andrew Lundgren lundgren@byu.net http://lundgren.denver.co.us /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 19:27:14 2001 From: "E.Claure" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 22:29:13 -0400 Subject: Wanted Crank Pulley Hi list, I can't seem to find crank pulleys in Moss or VB catalogs? Does anybody know where I can get a new one? Thanks, Enrique /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 21:01:29 2001 From: JutH1685@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 23:00:13 EST Subject: Any A's For Sale? Does anyone know of any MGA's for sale in the upstate NY area? I live in Elmira (on the border to PA) so near ther eand in PA is ok. Im looking for a running resto car or around that condition for not too much money. any leads are appreciated! thanks, justin juth1685@aol.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 21:27:53 2001 From: Mgbbob@aol.com To: nordling@mediaone.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 23:26:38 EST Subject: Re: Help!...Questions Hi! Newbie here to the list. Grew up in a 1966 B and now in process of buying a 71 MGB in Massachusetts. Starting my mid life crisis early! I have a few questions for the old school listers..... I'm close by here in RI and have a 66 B...welcome to your midlife crisis. #1. The chassis number shows car as a July 1971 However, the interior has the dash with glovebox and grille is the 73 honeycomb style. Also has the full length tunnel console. The number on the plate matches the VIN number under windshield. Can't see the engine number yet. What IS this car?? I don't know...my guess is the PO did some components swapping...not unusual. I've had my car for 25 years and have seen a lot of "mixing and matching" of incorrect parts....usually from unaware or inexperienced PO's. #2. Steering wheel has some play in it. Can be wiggled forward in back (pistoning) and slightly up and down (rocking) Any thoughts? Needs a rebuild. Could be anything....worn bushings and (or) bad rack. Not that expensive....you could always find used parts on the list if a new price scares you. #3 Needs carpet kit and door panels. What company sells the best quality and fit for these items? Interior kits are everywhere. I'm President of BMCNE and our VP runs a company called "British Parts Locator". He specializes in complete interiors.....so have no fear, this is probably the easiest part of the project. Enjoy your restoration and look us up. We'll be at the Wachusett Village Inn on the 8-11th of August, 2002 Bob Stahlbush 18 Browne Dtreet Cranston, RI 02920 (401)-944-8727 (h) (401)-431-1791 ext. 26 (w) 66 MGB GHN3L 78708 (A fresh engine WITH overdrive by Spring) 60 TR3A TS81398L (hopefully next summer) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 21:41:49 2001 From: Mgbbob@aol.com To: spanlab@ceibo.entelnet.bo, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 23:40:35 EST Subject: Re: Wanted Crank Pulley Hi Enrique, I thought I saw B crank pulleys in the Moss catalog. They're expensive ($80) since they're harmonically balanced (a rubber sleeve separates the hub from the sheave). I'm rebuilding a spare series B engine (GB-RU-H-11786) and after inspecting the crank, found that it was cracked. To make matters worse it was run unattended and scored the crankshaft beyond repair. I got another crankshaft locally, but needed a crank pulley and a timing cover to which the list responded admirably....try it. Bob Stahlbush 66 MGB GHN3L 78708 (A fresh engine And OD by Spring) 60 TR3A TS 81398L (Hopefully on the road summer '02) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Dec 29 21:57:36 2001 From: "Rick Brown" To: Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 23:56:12 -0500 Subject: Re: Any A's For Sale? Hi Justin Try looking on the MG Enthusiats site at http://www.mgcars.org.uk look in the classified section under the USA. Rick --------- http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil ---------- http://members.home.net/brown409 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2001 11:00 PM Subject: Any A's For Sale? > Does anyone know of any MGA's for sale in the upstate NY area? I live in > Elmira (on the border to PA) so near ther eand in PA is ok. Im looking for a > running resto car or around that condition for not too much money. any > leads are appreciated! > > thanks, justin > juth1685@aol.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 06:56:04 2001 From: "E.Claure" To: Mgbbob@aol.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 09:58:15 -0400 Subject: Re: Wanted Crank Pulley Hi Bob, thanks for the input. I just purchased it from Moss. Its not listed in my catalog. Looks like I need to get a new one :-). Enrique /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 07:41:43 2001 From: Bob Shaw To: "E.Claure" , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 08:12:49 -0600 Subject: Re: Wanted Crank Pulley At 10:29 PM -0400 12/29/2001, E.Claure wrote: >Hi list, I can't seem to find crank pulleys in Moss or VB catalogs? Does >anybody know where I can get a new one? Thanks, Enrique > Try http://www.aptfast.com/ -- Bob Shaw Check out Shaw's Garage at http://www.mlcltd.com/shawsgarage/ My British Car is NOT leaky - it's merely marking its territory. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 10:19:54 2001 From: Robert Sexson To: "Andrew B. Lundgren" Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 09:18:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Old B parts 74.5 --- "Andrew B. Lundgren" wrote: > Was it dry? :) > > On Sat, 29 Dec 2001 16:42:37 -0800 (PST), Robert > Sexson wrote: > > >R. Sexson > >74.5 B > >74 Midgrt > > > >P.S. I saw an oil spot, on the floor, under the B. > It > >didn't leak for a year and a half. No it sure wasn't. I suspect side cover gasket. R. Sexson > > > -- > Andrew Lundgren > lundgren@byu.net > http://lundgren.denver.co.us > > /// > /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list > /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net > /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool > /// > /// Send list postings to mgs@autox.team.net > /// Edit your replies! If they include this > trailer, they will NOT be sent. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 10:37:28 2001 From: WSpohn4@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 12:36:35 EST Subject: Re: 4 wheel disc brakes In a message dated 12/30/01 9:20:47 AM Pacific Standard Time, owner-mgs-digest@autox.team.net writes: > WHY ?<< When I said that I'd > like to switch to a 4-wheel disc brake system, 1.)the main reason is > probably > to help minimize brake fade and overheating which could result in less > brake > response and 2.) my ability to optimize the use of my rear brakes as > another > means of vehicle control or stability, in case of rear wheel drift, etc. > 3.) > aesthetically, they(disc brakes) just look more "race car" like than the > conventional drum brakes. I suspect that #3 is what really rings your bell, as 2 lacks validity and 1 would only apply in serious racing, and you wouldn't be allowed to run rear discs on an MGB in any sort of racing that I know of. If you were seriously going to race the car in vintage, for instance, the first thing to do is sell the 78 and buy an earlier car to work with anyway - one that handles and has a decent engine. Why head for a horse race on a 3 legged mule? Sure you could spend lots of money and get the old mule in shape to actually run, but unless automotive masochism is your fancy, why bother? My advice - save yourself the trouble and keep the perfectly adequate rear drums (although you may want to change the cylinders to balance the system and prevent premature rear lock-up as per generally accepted racing practice for these cars). And at least you'll still have a working parking brake! Bill (3 MGs, 2 of them 4 wheel disc) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 11:11:16 2001 From: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com To: eric@erickson.on.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 13:07:31 -0500 Subject: RE: ZR in situ Yep me too! What happened to the license plates? Cheers, Hans -----Original Message----- From: Eric [mailto:eric@erickson.on.net] Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2001 4:20 AM To: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: ZR in situ Hey, I want one of these! http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cambs.mgoc/images-mgx/kittensZR.jpg Hmmm, and the cars look OK, too! -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 11:28:41 2001 From: "Kai M. Radicke" To: , , Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 13:46:13 -0500 Subject: Re: ZR in situ > What happened to the license plates? > > Cheers, > > Hans You know, I've always wondered what the point of blocking/blurring the license plate of cars in images was. Listers are willing to use their real names and post pictures of their car, with the sometimes unreadable license plates. If they were that worried about the safety of their automobile, then they should worry more about someone doing an address lookup on their name and then knowing where the car is garaged! People can see your license plate on the road and at car shows, and the likelihood of that person being local to you is greater than when posting a URL to an image on an international list. This is definitely more of an American phenomenon though, some of our UK friends like to deliberately show off their unique plates. Seems like extra work for no extra safety guarantee (and you end up making the picture ugly in the process!). Kai /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 11:30:10 2001 From: mg-dennis@mindspring.com To: wcameyer Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 10:25:07 -0800 Subject: Re: Zero Oil Pressure Is this a fresh rebuild? The correct gasket is the larger one. You can tell by setting it on the pump. I recently had a similar situation with a rebuild. In my case the machine shop removed all the brass plugs to boil out the block and replaced all but one! The one right by the oil bypass return hole. We pulled the pan in the car. It was a bit of work but it can be done. I wanted to remove the engine but Chuck, the owner, Said he could get the pan off in the car. Carbs where removed, Exhaust was taken loose, Motor mounts taken loose and engine was jacked up. I remember the three front pan bolts being a real bear to get a wrench on them. This was on a 67. Dennis 67 MGB Still in the body shop.. wcameyer wrote: > Just turned over the 18V engine (1974) I put in my '67B. No oil pressure! > Last time I did a rebuild, the same thing happened and I discovered I had > used the wrong oil pump gasket. I remember being glad it was on the '77, > because you can remove the oil pan w/o pulling the engine. This time I was > especially careful to check gaskets, although I was not clear on the > difference. SO: > 1. Can anybody please explain the difference. > > 2. What else should I look for? > > 3. Is it possible to pull the pan after loosening the engine mounts and > jacking up the engine a bit? > > HELP!!! > > Bill Meyer /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 13:52:06 2001 From: "J R Overcash" To: "Robert Sexson" , "MGB" Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 15:39:13 -0500 Subject: RE: Old B parts 74.5 what have you got? Safety Fast! Ross Overcash Ayer, MA USA NAMGBR 2-1172 74B suffering from gentile decay but running! http://home.earthlink.net/~jroverca/ -----Original Message----- From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Robert Sexson Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2001 7:43 PM To: MGB Subject: Old B parts 74.5 I need to free up some storage space. I held on to all the old parts when i rebuilt the B., some good and some not. I'll have to send to the dump if no one wants them. R. Sexson 74.5 B 74 Midgrt P.S. I saw an oil spot, on the floor, under the B. It didn't leak for a year and a half. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// sent. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 17:04:42 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 19:12:29 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.com] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 17:43:17 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 19:51:01 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.bat] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 17:54:13 2001 From: eric@erickson.on.net To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 11:24:50 +1030 Subject: Re: shamenpaper > Hi! How are you? > > I send you this file in order to have your advice > > See you later. Thanks > Now, tell me David. Do you REALLY want our advice on this? ;-) Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 18:07:00 2001 From: Patton Dickson To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 19:06:02 -0600 Subject: ID'ing engine parts Hey everyone, As I am getting things together for trying to resurrect this engine. To day I bought a group 26 battery and will hook it up on Tuesday and drain and replace the oil, water, and gas that is in the car now. After looking things over, I have a couple more questions to ask. Last week I found out that my engine is a later engine than a original, no big deal to me, but now I have to figure out the parts that are on it. What are the differences between the correct original block (18GB/UH) and what is in the car (18V672Z)? It seems that the heads on the car now are the earlier heads (maybe the originals) as there are no emission provisions on it. I also seems that I have the generator, not the alternator. How can I figure out what has been mixed where? Anything else to look for. Instead of the canister type oil filter, I have a hanging spin on type filter, I do not know if it is aftermarket or the later stock type, how can I tell? What filter can I get locally at NAPA or Advance? I found a couple of sites talking about locally obtaining oil filters, are these what I need? http://www.mgbexperience.com/service/filters.html http://www.mgcarclubdc.com/oilfltr.html Will the later engine bolt up to the early transmission? I assume that I have the early transmission still in there, how can I tell w/o the car running or engine out? Thanks again, I am sure there will be more questions to come. Patton ------------------------------------ Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert 1967 MGB New Website!!!! All New Format!!! All New Location!!!! http://carport.virtualave.net/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 18:21:51 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 20:29:29 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.com] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 18:24:09 2001 From: "Jeff Fayne" To: "David Deutsch" , Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 19:25:47 -0600 Subject: Re: shamenpaper Uh, oh. Looks like David has the Sircam virus!!!! Dave, scan your system now! See http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.sircam.worm@mm.h tml for details Jeff ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Deutsch" To: Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 6:12 PM Subject: shamenpaper > Hi! How are you? > > I send you this file in order to have your advice > > See you later. Thanks > > [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.com] > > /// > /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list > /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net > /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool > /// > /// Send list postings to mgs@autox.team.net > /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 18:25:54 2001 From: "Jeff Fayne" To: "David Deutsch" , Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 19:27:25 -0600 Subject: Re: shamenpaper Uh, oh. Looks like David has the Sircam virus!!!! Dave, scan your system now! See http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.sircam.worm@mm.h tml for details Jeff ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Deutsch" To: Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 7:29 PM Subject: shamenpaper > Hi! How are you? > > I send you this file in order to have your advice > > See you later. Thanks > > [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.com] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 18:27:10 2001 From: Goracef1@cs.com To: mgman@optonline.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 20:26:27 EST Subject: Re: shamenpaper ok,i have recieved this three times in the last 2 hours?whats up? Brian Ichter /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 18:26:07 2001 From: "Rick Brown" To: "mglist" Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 20:25:11 -0500 Subject: On line list of People willing to aid stranded MGers A few years ago someone on the list started a website with a list of names and telephone numbers for people to use on a trip if they run into trouble. Next weekend a friend is picking up an MGA Twin Cam he just bought in Ottawa, Ontario and will be driving it down through NY State and PA to Maryland he would like to print out the list to take with him - Just in case. Anyone remember the URL? Thanks Rick --------- http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil ---------- http://members.home.net/brown409 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 18:38:46 2001 From: "Jerry Erbesfield" To: "MG List" , Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 20:12:01 -0500 Subject: Re: shamenpaper - Now: You have the Sircam VIRUS!!! David: Sorry to have to break the news to you but your computer has the Sircam virus. I've received two copies of the Sircam "Hi. How are you?" message from the list, in the past half hour, of course with the attachment removed as the list does do. However, other persons in your address book may not have such a luxury and could get this damaging virus. For more information on Sircam, click on the following link: http://vil.mcafee.com/dispVirus.asp?virus_k=99141& MG content: I've updated my website. More MG stuff. Come see and say hello! Click on the link below. Good luck - and Happy New Year! Jerry Erbesfield MIS Director Prudential Georgia Realty 73 B Black Beauty roadster jerbesfield@mediaone.net website- http://people.atl.mediaone.net/jerbesfield -----Original Message----- From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of David Deutsch Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 7:51 PM To: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.bat] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 18:46:27 2001 From: "Jerry Erbesfield" To: "MG List" , Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 20:01:52 -0500 Subject: FW: shamenpaper - Now: You have the Sircam VIRUS!!! David: Sorry to have to break the news to you but your computer has the Sircam virus. I've received two copies of the Sircam "Hi. How are you?" message from the list, in the past half hour, of course with the attachment removed as the list does do. However, other persons in your address book may not have such a luxury and could get this damaging virus. For more information on Sircam, click on the following link: http://vil.mcafee.com/dispVirus.asp?virus_k=99141& MG content: I've updated my website. More MG stuff. Come see and say hello! Click on the link below. Good luck - and Happy New Year! Jerry Erbesfield MIS Director Prudential Georgia Realty 73 B Black Beauty roadster jerbesfield@mediaone.net website- http://people.atl.mediaone.net/jerbesfield -----Original Message----- From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of David Deutsch Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 7:51 PM To: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.bat] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// sent. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 19:00:52 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 21:08:54 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.lnk] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 19:13:04 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 21:12:07 EST Subject: Test Test Albert Escalante (Virus Check) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 19:17:33 2001 From: "Jerry Erbesfield" To: "David Deutsch" , Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 21:17:29 -0500 Subject: RE: shamenpaper NOW: David Deutsch has the Sircam virus That's 4 Sircam virus messages received via the list from David in approximately the last hour and a half now. No response from David to the previous messages I sent to him about this. His computer must be turned on and unattended. Another good reason to turn your computer off when not using it! To those on the list that may also be in his address book - Beware!! Jerry Erbesfield MIS Director Prudential Georgia Realty 73 B Black Beauty roadster jerbesfield@mediaone.net website- http://people.atl.mediaone.net/jerbesfield -----Original Message----- From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of David Deutsch Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 9:09 PM To: mgs@autox.team.net Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.lnk] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 19:23:28 2001 From: eric@erickson.on.net To: MG List Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 12:53:43 +1030 Subject: Enough already - was Re: shamenpaper - Now: You have the Sircam OK, this and other virus cause their bandwidth gobbling damage in two ways. Firstly by distributing themselves in many clever ways, like mailing this message out multiple times from David's computer. Secondly, by clogging up mailing lists and the Internet in general with thousands of messages telling the person they have a virus. I don't think David is silly - he will see the virus-laden message (stripped of virus attachment by the list-server) when he next reads his mail and this list and take appropriate action. It has been fine so far, but from now on let's consider him TOLD and not continue telling him (which is also really annoying for the infected one - not bad enough that he has an embarrassing personal infection... but now everyone is telling him - PUBLICLY and privately). Eric > > Sorry to have to break the news to you but your computer has the Sircam > virus. I've received two copies of the Sircam "Hi. How are you?" message > from the list, in the past half hour, of course with the attachment removed > as the list does do. However, other persons in your address book may not > have such a luxury and could get this damaging virus. > > For more information on Sircam, click on the following link: > > http://vil.mcafee.com/dispVirus.asp?virus_k=99141& > > MG content: I've updated my website. More MG stuff. Come see and say hello! > Click on the link below. > > Good luck - and Happy New Year! > > Jerry Erbesfield > MIS Director > Prudential Georgia Realty > 73 B Black Beauty roadster > jerbesfield@mediaone.net > website- http://people.atl.mediaone.net/jerbesfield > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of David Deutsch > Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 7:51 PM > To: mgs@autox.team.net > Subject: shamenpaper > > > Hi! How are you? > > I send you this file in order to have your advice > > See you later. Thanks > > [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a > name of shamenpaper.doc.bat] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 19:39:20 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 21:47:19 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.bat] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 19:51:51 2001 From: Barney Gaylord To: Patton Dickson Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 20:43:02 -0600 Subject: Re: ID'ing engine parts At 07:06 PM 12/30/01 -0600, Patton Dickson wrote: >.... >.... What are the differences between the correct original block (18GB/UH) >and what is in the car (18V672Z)? Not much. They are both five main bearing engines, with the main differences in the cylinder head, external accessories and emissions parts. >It seems that the heads on the car now are the earlier heads (maybe the >originals) as there are no emission provisions on it. No air injection ports on the head until 1968. >I also seems that I have the generator, not the alternator. .... Generator was used through 1967, alternator thereafter. Changing from one to the other would require a change in wiring and voltage regulator. >Instead of the canister type oil filter, I have a hanging spin on type >filter, I do not know if it is aftermarket or the later stock type, how >can I tell? This may depend on which gearbox and starter motor are in the car. Up through 1967 the MBG used an inertial engagement starter motor with a Bendix gear on the output shaft. These starter drive mechanisms protrude through a hole in the back of the bellhousing, and these early starters were round with nothing on the outside. From 1968 on the MGB used a pre-engagement starter motor. This one has a large solenoid hanging on the side of the starter motor, and the motor is a little longer (forwards) than the earlier one. Through the '67 model year the cars were equiped with a direct hanging steel canister oil filter. This one hung at a slight angle directly from the mounting point on the engine block and close in front of the starter motor. The larger (and longer) starter introduced in 1968 wouldn't fit in the space behind the hanging oil filter, so there was an inverted adapter used to mount the steel canister vertically on top behind the (new) alternator. In light of oil drain-back problems, a couple years later there was a hanging oil filter adapter used that had an offset head to locate the (hanging) oil filter a bit farther forward to fit in front of the longer starter motor. I believe this one always had a spin-on filter element. There is also an inverted spin-on filter mount, but I don't know if this one was ever supplied by the factory. For the earlier cars with the (shorter) inertia drive starters, there is also an aftermarket hanging spin-on oil filter adapter available that mounts in place of the original hanging canister, where the spin-on filter hangs at an angle close in front of the starter. This adapter is quite small, round, and fits between the engine block and the oil filter. This one will not work with the later (longer) starter motor. >What filter can I get locally at NAPA or Advance? I found a couple of >sites talking about locally obtaining oil filters, are these what I need? > >http://www.mgbexperience.com/service/filters.html >http://www.mgcarclubdc.com/oilfltr.html Now the reason for this long prior explanation is that the small hanging spin-on adapter uses a different filter than all of the others, primarily being a smaller diameter. I have some of the cross reference numbers. For the small hanging adapter I use the NAPA 1516 oil filter (which is made by WIX). Another is the Moss 235-880 filter (which I have found in the past to be a Fram filter). For the offset hanging spin-on adapter and the inverted spin-on adapter I use NAPA 1068 (also made by WIX), which does have the desired anti-drain-back valve. I do not recommend any Fram oil filter, but for cross reference purpose these Fram numbers will fit, PH 3600, PH 43, PH 3614 (there are differences in length). Also Cooper filter Z27A, Moss filter 235-960, AC Delco PF-20, Motorcraft FL-300, Purolator L20081, WIX 51068, with all of these filters having the desired anti-drain-back valve (the rubber flap you can see just inside of the vent holes around the base). More filter numbers can be found here: http://www.mgbexperience.com/service/filters.html For some additional notes on my personal preferences for spin on filters and various adapters, check here: http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg/mgtech/engine/of100.htm The condensed version is that I rather like the inverted spin-on adapter. >Will the later engine bolt up to the early transmission? I assume that I >have the early transmission still in there, how can I tell w/o the car >running or engine out? Through 1967 the MGB used the 3-syncronizer gearbox with 10-inch flywheel (120 tooth ring gear) and inertia type starter. Starting in 1968 teh 4-syncronizer gearbox was used with a larger diameter flywheel (128 tooth ring gear), larger bellhousing on the gearbox, and the pre-engage type starter. The 5-main bearing engines, 18GB-18GK and 18V, can be attached to the early gearbox by using the flywheel and engine rear plate from the 18GB engine (1965-1967 model years), when the first 5-main engine was mated to the 3-syncro gearbox. Later units have variations in the gearbox input shaft and the spigot bushing in the back of the crankshaft, but bolt-in adaptations are available. The primary trick to mating various engines and gearboxes is to use the engine rear plate that fits the gearbox bellhousing. The 5-main engines have a rubber rear crankshaft seal mounted in the engine rear plate, where the 3-main engines have no rear seal. The toughest match up would be mating an early 3-main engine to a later 4-syncro gearbox, as the gearbox input shaft pilot is larger on the later units. In this case the input shaft would have to be turned down to fit the smaller spigot bushing. Okay jury. Did I get it all right this time? Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 19:54:39 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 21:54:00 EST Subject: Subject: shamenpaper (Whats going on?) Hi, Would somebody please tell me what's going on with this VIRUS thing? Did we all get zapped by a worm OR did the system remove the attachment BEFORE it got to us? OR was there ever an attachment attached? I did a few virus scans and hopefully (please)! I don't think my system has been compromised. One thing, does somebody sit at a desk someplace and purposely try to figure out ways to damage other peoples computers? What would possess a person to do something like that? Some kind of Hatred? Or Jealousy..Fear..Anger...Contempt? What? ( P.S. I got 3 or 4 of the original "shamenpaper" e-mails before I got an alert. I'd Double Deleted them all the way out of my system, but maybe I should have sent one to AOL ALERT first! ) Albert Escalante 1978 MGB /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 19:59:22 2001 From: "richard rivenbark" To: Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 22:00:16 -0500 Subject: engine advice OK listers I need a bit of advice. The 69 MGC GT I bought a few months ago came with a spare engine. The engine currently in the car has spun a rod bearing so I'm not driving it right now now. As an added bonus it is the original motor :) so I want to rebuilt it to factory specs. I started tearing down the spare yesterday. This is where the advice part comes in: The DPO has never actually seen the motor run. I have completely dissassembled the head and cleaned the carbon deposits. I opened the bottom end and checked the bearings. Everything looks great except for the rust that is prevalent in the water passages. I am going to have the head hot-tanked. Should I have the block Tanked as well? I hate to completely tear it apart to boil it when everything else looks fresh. BTW I plan on oing some mods to this engine, so take that into consideration as well. TIA, Tad R. Orlando, FL 69 MGC GT 74 RWA Midget /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 20:06:01 2001 From: Barney Gaylord To: "Rick Brown" , "mglist" Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 21:04:01 -0600 Subject: Re: On line list of People willing to aid stranded MGers At 08:25 PM 12/30/01 -0500, Rick Brown wrote: >A few years ago someone on the list started a website with a list of names >and telephone numbers for people to use on a trip if they run into >trouble..... Anyone remember the URL? Yup. Right here: http://lonestarwebs.com/MGhelp.html Cheers, Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 20:18:54 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 22:26:45 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.com] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 20:30:42 2001 From: "Larry Hoy" To: , Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 20:30:05 -0700 Subject: RE: Subject: shamenpaper (Whats going on?) Albert, and list, One of the reasons Mark (the list administrator) has chosen not to allow attachments through the list server is because of the massive bandwidth they take up. Another advantage of this is the server also strips virus attachments. So you can't catch the virus through the list. However ... Lets assume that David uses Outlook, or Outlook Express, and has his program setup to save all the addresses that have ever sent him anything. Remember the last time you responded to a message from this list by clicking on "reply to all"? Well if David was one of the people that you replied to then he may have your address. So in addition to receiving David's message through the list you may have received it directly from him. If you did then you better have a good virus program running, or be using some type of "off brand" software or computer. Good luck. Larry > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net > [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Aeseeyou@aol.com > Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 7:54 PM > To: mgs@autox.team.net > Subject: Subject: shamenpaper (Whats going on?) > > Hi, > Would somebody please tell me what's going on with this VIRUS > thing? Did we > all get zapped by a worm OR did the system remove the > attachment BEFORE it > got to us? /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 20:56:01 2001 From: Patton Dickson To: Barney Gaylord Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 21:55:21 -0600 Subject: Re: ID'ing engine parts Wow Barney, Thanks for that level of detail, I needed that.... So my heads and generator are likely to be off the original 67 motor as they are the "early" style as you described. I also have a PVC valve instead of other emission systems in place. From your descriptions, it appears that I also have the early starter as there is no solenoid mounted on the outside of the starter. The solenoid used in the car is mounted on the passenger side engine compartment wall. If I'm right in that, I will call the starter "early" as well. Does that mean that I can assume a correct transfer of the 10-inch flywheel (120 tooth ring gear) to that "early" inertia type starter, and therefore I have the 3-synchronizer gearbox . Would the later style oil filter you described be offset towards the passenger side of the car rather than towards the front? It does seem to be offset almost an entire filters length towards the side of the car. The filter installed in there is a NAPA, but the only numbers I can read start with 10 the rest is faded. That seems to point to the later offset as well (maybe a NAPA 1068). It is so far over it almost touches the coil and the plate under the generator (I don't know what that plate is yet) Does I sound like I am on the right track in saying that my engine has only had the block "updated" (along with the oil filter) and the starter, generator, heads, and gearbox seem to remain correct for 1967? Thanks for all of your help Patton /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 20:56:40 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 23:04:31 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.com] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 21:07:05 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: MGTD1952@cs.com Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 23:05:28 EST Subject: Shamenpaper # 7 Steve in NJ, OK that makes 7 of the "mgman@optonline.net"(David Duetsch) e-mails since about 3:30pm PST. It looks like everytime I open my mailbox icon, there it is.. at least it's not doing any real harm other than making me very edgy... Sort of on the Brink or maybe I need a drink. Can't somebody call him (David) up and tell him to turn his machine off, or something? Frustrated and perplexed in California. Albert Escalante /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 21:32:13 2001 From: Bill Gilroy To: Eric Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 23:18:40 -0500 Subject: Re: ZR in situ Hello Eric, Friday, December 28, 2001, 10:19:46 PM, you wrote: E> Hey, E> I want one of these! E> http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cambs.mgoc/images-mgx/kittensZR.jpg E> Hmmm, and the cars look OK, too! The name "Atomic kitten" caught my eye. Turns out they are popular (?) Anyway for the real DOM check out http://www.ukbritney.tv/atomickitten/ or do a google search for "Atomic kitten" -- Best regards, Bill mailto:w.gilroy@verizon.net /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 21:35:56 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 23:43:58 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.pif] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 21:33:57 2001 From: "Jerry Erbesfield" To: , , Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 23:33:37 -0500 Subject: Enough already - was Re: shamenpaper - Now: You have the Sircam Eric said: > Firstly by distributing themselves in many clever ways, like mailing this message out multiple times from David's computer. Jerry's response: That's what viruses do - when virus detection is not installed or not installed properly AND when a person's computer is left running and unattended. Eric said: >Secondly, by clogging up mailing lists and the Internet in general with thousands of messages telling the person they have a virus. Jerry's response: I haven't seen "thousands" - There may have been six or seven deserved responses so far, including yours Eric. Eric said: >I don't think David is silly - he will see the virus-laden message (stripped of virus attachment by the list-server) when he next reads his mail and this list and take appropriate action. Jerry's response: I'm sure that David is NOT silly. I DO know that he is a good list participant. Negligent maybe though - for not having (proper) virus protection and for either ignoring the responses to him and to the list or by leaving his computer turned on and unattended - and therefore putting other list members in harm's way. Are some of us in his address book or elsewhere in his computer where the virus can find us????? Some of these Damn viruses can even pick up e-mail addresses from elsewhere in the computer where they may exist, such as the e-mail message body, html documents, Word docs and so forth, NOT just from the address book!!!! Eric said: >It has been fine so far, but from now on let's consider him TOLD and not continue telling him (which is also really annoying for the infected one - Jerry's response: David HAS been told - but guess what? His computer is still cranking out the Sircam virus. I've received three more now myself, now for a total of 8 in approximately two and a half hours. Please also see Larry Hoy's supportive list message on this subject - also one of the respondent's to the Sircam virus being sent by David. Thanks Larry! Eric said: > not bad enough that he has an embarrassing personal infection... but now everyone is telling him - PUBLICLY and privately). Jerry's response: EVERYBODY is NOT telling him. Just a few possibly directly affected people that are rightly concerned. This is NOT a "personal" problem. This is a "public" problem in that Sircam is a damaging COMMUNICABLE virus, that can spread to every e-mail address in David's or anyone else's computer that may receive it, putting us all at risk. Everybody on this list should be keenly aware of this problem, no matter that the list strips attachments. The list is NOT the only place that David's viruses are going to. I can assure you of that. I'm as avid a lister and MG'er as anyone - and don't like dealing with this anymore than the next guy - AND, yes, maybe this is not about MG's - but it certainly IS very important info to the members of this list! Eric's attitude on this is just the kind of thing that allows these viruses to proliferate. Eric - Get your head out of the sand! Bandwidth is NOT the ONLY concern. I'm going to bed now. Happy New Year all - including Eric! -Jerry Erbesfield MIS Director Prudential Georgia Realty 73 B Black Beauty roadster jerbesfield@mediaone.net website- http://people.atl.mediaone.net/jerbesfield /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 22:02:27 2001 From: eric@erickson.on.net To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 15:32:35 +1030 Subject: Re: Enough already - was Re: shamenpaper - Now: You have the Jerry wrote: > > Eric said: > >It has been fine so far, but from now on let's consider him TOLD and not > >continue telling him (which is also really annoying for the infected one - > > Jerry's response: > David HAS been told - but guess what? His computer is still cranking out the > Sircam virus. Yep, and continuously mailing complaints to the world will stop this happening, won't it. And I thought I had worded that first message carefully to try not to hurt people's feelings ("it has been fine so far") but, oh well, as my dear old Mum says... you can but try. Eric /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 22:14:07 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 00:22:10 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.pif] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 22:53:39 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 01:01:26 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.lnk] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Dec 30 23:31:54 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 01:39:37 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.pif] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 00:11:50 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 02:18:52 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.com] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 00:49:39 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 02:57:06 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.pif] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 01:29:00 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 03:36:23 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.lnk] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 01:31:07 2001 From: Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck To: MG list Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 00:09:39 -0800 Subject: Blown head gasket Hi all My running rough was not getting any better, the mechanic at work said that it might be clogged oil control rings and gave me some stuff to add to the oil to clean them out. I removed the oil fill and noticed a little bit of white around it. upon closer inspection I found that there was definatly water in the oil. Probably what is causing my rough running. Did a compression test and found that # 2&3 where only 97lbs so I have removed the head and am going to order a gasket kit in the morning. I plan on having the head skimmed and thinking about lapping the valves is there anything else I should do while I am in here?? I was thinking about polishing the intake and exhaust ports. Also myne has ports for the air pump that the DPO has put large bolts in to blank off I was thinking of TIG welding them shut, any thoughts? Adam Schellinck 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 02:07:10 2001 From: David Deutsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 04:14:27 -0500 Subject: shamenpaper Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mixed which had a name of shamenpaper.doc.bat] /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 07:02:52 2001 From: Eric To: MGS Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 00:33:19 +1030 Subject: 2002 Happy New Year... (don't worry, it will reach you, too, soon!) -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 07:28:46 2001 From: Patton Dickson To: MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 08:27:50 -0600 Subject: List of items available @ local shops I have a list I keep of items with code numbers that are available over the counter a regular auto part stores for my other car. This includes belts, filters, spark plugs and batteries. I found the a list of filters, but I wondered if anyone had complied a comprehensive list for MGB's. Thanks Patton ------------------------------------ Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert 1967 MGB New Website!!!! All New Format!!! All New Location!!!! http://carport.virtualave.net/ /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 08:23:24 2001 From: "Larry Hoy" To: "'MG list'" Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 08:21:54 -0700 Subject: RE: Blown head gasket Adam, before you spend any money on the head I'd suggest you have the machine shop Magnaflux it. It shouldn't cost more than $25. My machine shop does it for free as long as they get the machining. Larry Hoy > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net > [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie & > Jennifer Schellinck > Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 1:10 AM > To: MG list > Subject: Blown head gasket > > > Hi all > My running rough was not getting any better, the mechanic at > work said that it might be clogged oil control rings and gave > me some stuff to add to the oil to clean them out. I removed > the oil fill and noticed a little bit of white around it. > upon closer inspection I found that there was definatly water > in the oil. Probably what is causing my rough running. Did a > compression test and found that # 2&3 where only 97lbs so I > have removed the head and am going to order a gasket kit in > the morning. I plan on having the head skimmed and thinking > about lapping the valves is there anything else I should do > while I am in here?? I was thinking about polishing the > intake and exhaust ports. Also myne has ports for the air > pump that the DPO has put large bolts in to blank off I was > thinking of TIG welding them shut, any thoughts? > Adam Schellinck > 1970 MGB Roadster /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 08:53:48 2001 From: "mghirsch" To: Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 09:52:36 -0600 Subject: Re: Blown Head gasket Depending on what your ultimate goals for the car are, you may consider: Instead of skimming the head, have it milled to increase compression. Install larger valves (for example the valves on the L head) Polish and reshape the combustion chamber. Install the double valve spring setup if yours is single. Some people suggest putting in hardened valve seats for unleaded fuel. I have never found this to be necessary. Safety Fast Maynard Hirsch /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 09:03:27 2001 From: "mghirsch" To: Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 10:02:12 -0600 Subject: Re: ID'ing engine parts I believe the oil filter adapters from the 18V engines will fit the early blocks. If you use the adapter where the filter is on top, you can use the PH8A filter (Older Ford) of the 111 filter. Just make sure that the filter you use has a check valve in it to prevent drain down. Not all of them do. Maynard Hirsch /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 09:10:38 2001 From: KGROWLER@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 11:08:59 EST Subject: RE: shamenpaper And the winner of this year's 'Dan Hughes Memorial Award', sneaking in just under the deadline is, DAVI... /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 09:34:10 2001 From: "Tim L. Creger" To: MG Mailing list Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 10:30:37 -0600 Subject: Questions from a Newbie Dear MG list, I have entered the world of MG cars, having decided to try my hand at restoring a 1970 Midget. I think I mailed a message to this list a few weeks back asking how I would determine the I.D. number of the engine if the plate was missing. Given the fact that finding that number is possible (for a price), I am curious if anyone knows how to determine whether the 1275 engine in this year had the high or low compression head without knowing the engine serial number? Is there a way to tell without removing it and measuring the combustion chamber clearance? I have lots of time to think about this stuff while the thermometer is in the sub zero range. Tim Creger Lincoln, NE /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 09:56:59 2001 From: "Lawrie Alexander" To: "mghirsch" , Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 08:43:41 -0800 Subject: Re: Blown Head gasket Maynard, Maynard, Maynard............ So much good advice from your keyboard this year, and then you wait till the very end to post this! Empirical tests have proven that hard seats prevent valve seat recession. Just about every qualified mechanic who has worked on cars that were not originally fitted with hard seats knows that they are necessary to prevent valve seat recession. The additional cost during a valve job is so small that, unless the finished rebuild is going to sit in a trailer queen that never gets used, it's truly false economy not to have it done. I hate to close the year on a critical note, but hardened exhaust valve seats are a must when doing a valve job - if they have not already been fitted during prior work on the engine. You may choose, of course, for whatever reason, to find them unnecessary, but please don't try and convince other neophytes to the world of engine rebuilds that your choice is the most sensible! Happy New Year! (And take a spare cylinder head along if you make any long distance road trips...........) Lawrie British Sportscar Center -----Original Message----- From: mghirsch To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Monday, December 31, 2001 7:53 AM Subject: Re: Blown Head gasket (SNIP) >Some people suggest putting in hardened valve seats for unleaded fuel. I have >never found this to be necessary. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 10:22:25 2001 From: The Awards Committee To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 09:20:45 -0800 (PST) Subject: End of the year awards... Each year, with much anticipation, classic car clubs, associations and magazines around the globe nominate and award outstanding persons for their achievement and support for our hobby. However, it has been with growing sentiment, that the apparent need for a un-enthusiast award was needed. This award is given to those who have shown their sheer stupidity through the ownership of their vehicle and interaction with those involved in the hobby. The classic car hobby and industry has always been about promoting the preservation of our automobiles. In spite of this, these un-enthusiasts pose a tremendous risk to the cars they own and to scaring off new enthusiasts with their acts of unintelligence. This award has been established to acknowledge the existence of these poor souls who do not realize their own worthlessness. By keeping these individuals involved in the hobby we are jeopardizing their current vehicles and any future ones they may wish to own. We cannot allow this to happen. So it is without further delay that The Awards Committee presents their chosen un-enthusiasts of the year: Albert Escalante and Enrique Claure! It is rare that two such people come to light, and with such equal ignorance. Our nomination staff had such a difficult time evaluating Albert and Enrique that it became clear that they both should receive this prestigious recognition. Happy New Year! The Awards Committee /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 10:32:14 2001 From: Carl W French To: The Awards Committee , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 12:31:05 -0500 Subject: Re: End of the year awards... What disgusting, stupid, moron came up with this tasteless attack? (might I add cowardly although that was painfully obvious). Carl French still learning.... > We cannot allow this to happen. So it is >without further delay that The Awards Committee >presents their chosen un-enthusiasts of the year: /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 11:07:38 2001 From: Peter Guagenti To: MG , Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 10:05:47 -0800 Subject: Radiator / Thermostat Question on MGA DeLuxe I'm in the process of overhauling the cooling system on my DeLuxe (the first step in trying to get the engine running again) and I was hoping for some advice. The radiator is off the car and after inspecting it I discovered that there is a great deal of a soapy film collected throughout the radiator. It appears to be the residue from the old coolant. What's the best way to clean it? Should I simply bring it down to the local radiator shop and have them take car eof it? The thermostat housing will not come off. I've removed the nuts holding it in place, tried gently prying it up from the edges, but it won't budge. Any tips for removal? Thanks, -peterg /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 11:06:10 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 11:52:16 -0600 Subject: Re: Blown Head gasket Lawrie Alexander wrote: > > Maynard, Maynard, Maynard............ > > So much good advice from your keyboard this year, and then you wait till the > very end to post this! Empirical tests have proven that hard seats prevent > valve seat recession. Just about every qualified mechanic who has worked on > cars that were not originally fitted with hard seats knows that they are > necessary to prevent valve seat recession. The additional cost during a > valve job is so small that, unless the finished rebuild is going to sit in a > trailer queen that never gets used, it's truly false economy not to have it > done. > > I hate to close the year on a critical note, but hardened exhaust valve > seats are a must when doing a valve job - if they have not already been > fitted during prior work on the engine. You may choose, of course, for > whatever reason, to find them unnecessary, but please don't try and convince > other neophytes to the world of engine rebuilds that your choice is the most > sensible! I've been building racing engines since 1964 and I'm beginning to get an opinion on the hardened seats question. The present engine in my Cooper S is a 1967 Cooper S Engine that came out of a car that raced at Sebring way over 30 years ago. I installed an APT 286 scatter cam when I built it. It has a very free-flow breathing system with a single 1.75" HIF SU on it and an LCB exhaust system with a free-flow silencer. I use a 3:44 diff and standard 4-synchro trans. That puts me over 4k rpm when cruising on the motorway. Since the original build, I've done an 800+ mile round trip from Tulsa to Saint Louis and back, as well as many 200 mile round trips. I drive fast and hard because it's fun (and I have four spare power units stored for emergencies). I've had the head off three times for various reasons since then and have seen no evidence at all of seat recession or valve wear even though we haven't had leaded fuel here for decades. I have spare heads in the garage, so my plan has been to wait until I see damage beginning to manifest from the crap fuel, then to have the hardened seats installed. So far there has been no damage, so no need. Compression remains very good and very even. I have also heard horror stories about recession and wear using unleaded, mostly from friends in the UK, I wonder if the petrol formulations are quite different. The Victor MGB-TF is up on blocks waiting for some relatively warm weather to get his new clutch TOB installed. One of these days I will be building the spare B engine up to high performance specs to install in the Victor, so I'm very interested in this discussion. -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 11:08:47 2001 From: Bob Howard To: the_awards_committee@yahoo.com Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 12:57:26 -0500 Subject: Re: End of the year awards... Surely the Awards Committee inadvertently overlooked appending their names to their award presentation. Did they intend irony when they chose to use "yahoo", or might that choice have been self-descriptive? Bob On Mon, 31 Dec 2001 09:20:45 -0800 (PST) The Awards Committee writes: > Each year, with much anticipation, classic car clubs, /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 11:09:56 2001 From: "Larry Hoy" To: "'The Awards Committee'" , Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 11:08:25 -0700 Subject: RE: End of the year awards... Interesting, if the writer of this message thought it was funny why didn't they sign it? Larry Hoy > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net > [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of The Awards Committee > Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 10:21 AM > To: mgs@autox.team.net > Subject: End of the year awards... > > Each year, with much anticipation, classic car clubs, > associations and magazines around the globe nominate and > award outstanding persons for their achievement and support > for our hobby. Snip > So it is without further delay that The Awards Committee > presents their chosen un-enthusiasts of the year: /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 11:20:59 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: Peter Guagenti , MG Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 12:06:48 -0600 Subject: Re: Radiator / Thermostat Question on MGA DeLuxe Peter Guagenti wrote: > > I'm in the process of overhauling the cooling system on my DeLuxe (the first > step in trying to get the engine running again) and I was hoping for some > advice. > > The radiator is off the car and after inspecting it I discovered that there > is a great deal of a soapy film collected throughout the radiator. It > appears to be the residue from the old coolant. What's the best way to > clean it? Should I simply bring it down to the local radiator shop and have > them take car eof it? That's what I would recommend. > The thermostat housing will not come off. I've removed the nuts holding it > in place, tried gently prying it up from the edges, but it won't budge. Any > tips for removal? Only once have I had a t-stat housing that simply wouldn't come off no matter what. I double-nutted the studs and pulled them, then used a block of wood against the side of the housing and a hammer to break it loose. Usually the block and hammer will do the trick without removing the studs. Warning: the studs may break off if you try to pull them; I recommend using lots of liquid wrench down the studs & stud holes, letting it soak overnight, if you try to pull them. Also use slight back and forth force to break them loose, rather than a constant force. -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 11:53:29 2001 From: "Dave Wood" To: "mgs" Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 10:49:41 -0800 Subject: Re: End of the year awards... This is a truely a tastless end of the year. For that I would be happy to award rwcrgwc53.attbi.com, the asshole of the year award. That e-mail address incidently is the source of this tastless award according to my mail. Dave 72 B /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 12:10:01 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 12:16:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: Anyone looking for Parts? [Yahoo! Clubs: My Classic MGB] (fwd) This is from another list, I do not condone his actions, but if you need some parts, here is a B that is getting sacrificed to create a DPO! :) ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 08:35:06 -0800 (PST) From: carguy65us To: lundgren@byu.net Subject: Anyone looking for Parts? [Yahoo! Clubs: My Classic MGB] Hey, I have not quite yet started on my 1972 MGB but I am going to be turning it into a 289 Cobra Look a like, with a Cal-Ace body and a 289 I have sitting around. I am currently finishing my Fiat Spider Race Car Replica and plan on starting on the MGB Soon. I will not be needing things like the Hood, Front Fenders, bumpers ect... Anyone intersted let me know I will prob be starting on the car as soon as Feb. The car is rust free the hood fenders and motor and trans are all for sale. The motor runs well but I have not started it in a few months, its very complete and has all its parts the transmission is good and all the body is clean and rust and damage Free. e-mail me at arkangel162@hotmail.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 12:15:17 2001 From: "Scott willis" To: "Peter Guagenti" , "MG" , Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 13:16:23 -0600 Subject: Re: Radiator / Thermostat Question on MGA DeLuxe I had my radiator boiled at the shop. It was worth getting all rust and residue out They also repaired a small crack in the surround. This is very dangerous but it worked for me. Push the car away from the house and have a fire extinguisher at hand. My housing was stuck to the bolts. I heated them with a blow torch and tapped the thermostat housing with my rubber dead blow hammer to break free. Be very careful. The housing can break. It worked well and it saved from damaging the surface of the head by not prying the thing loose with a screw driver. Good luck, Scott 59 MGA 73 T140 Bonnie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Guagenti" To: "MG" ; Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 12:05 PM Subject: Radiator / Thermostat Question on MGA DeLuxe > I'm in the process of overhauling the cooling system on my DeLuxe (the first > step in trying to get the engine running again) and I was hoping for some > advice. > > The radiator is off the car and after inspecting it I discovered that there > is a great deal of a soapy film collected throughout the radiator. It > appears to be the residue from the old coolant. What's the best way to > clean it? Should I simply bring it down to the local radiator shop and have > them take car eof it? > > The thermostat housing will not come off. I've removed the nuts holding it > in place, tried gently prying it up from the edges, but it won't budge. Any > tips for removal? > > Thanks, > > -peterg /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 12:15:17 2001 From: Barrie Robinson To: The Awards Committee , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 14:11:48 -0500 Subject: Re: End of the year awards... I am sorry to find that even in the ranks of MG enthusiasts we find people of such small calibre and poor intellect such as the so called "Awards Committee". Significantly the person has not the guts to identify himself/herself. If they did I would ask to be nominated as I find nothing wrong with Albert's or Enrique's communications. .........and now will the real un-enthusiast stand up .........but I doubt it! At 09:20 AM 12/31/01 -0800, The Awards Committee wrote: >Each year, with much anticipation, classic car clubs, >associations and magazines around the globe nominate >and award outstanding persons for their achievement >and support for our hobby. However, it has been with >growing sentiment, that the apparent need for a >un-enthusiast award was needed. This award is given >to those who have shown their sheer stupidity through >the ownership of their vehicle and interaction with >those involved in the hobby. > >The classic car hobby and industry has always been >about promoting the preservation of our automobiles. >In spite of this, these un-enthusiasts pose a >tremendous risk to the cars they own and to scaring >off new enthusiasts with their acts of unintelligence. > This award has been established to acknowledge the >existence of these poor souls who do not realize their >own worthlessness. By keeping these individuals >involved in the hobby we are jeopardizing their >current vehicles and any future ones they may wish to >own. We cannot allow this to happen. So it is >without further delay that The Awards Committee >presents their chosen un-enthusiasts of the year: > >Albert Escalante and Enrique Claure! > >It is rare that two such people come to light, and >with such equal ignorance. Our nomination staff had >such a difficult time evaluating Albert and Enrique >that it became clear that they both should receive >this prestigious recognition. > >Happy New Year! > >The Awards Committee > >/// >/// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list >/// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net >/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool >/// >/// Send list postings to mgs@autox.team.net >/// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent. Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 12:35:36 2001 From: Mowog1@aol.com To: mgman@optonline.net, ZPron@aol.com, tugwell@ix.netcom.com, Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 14:31:03 EST Subject: Re: DON"T DOWNLOAD IT!!! In a message dated 12/31/01 7:56:39 AM Central Standard Time, mgman@optonline.net writes: > Adam Deutsch > (Technical Manager of things he doesn't know how to use) > Adam... What a great title! Thanks for looking out for your Dad! rick ingram namgbr #0-134 1969 mgc tourer 1974.5 mgb/gt 1978 mgb tourer /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 12:37:08 2001 From: Barrie Robinson To: Rocky Frisco , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 14:32:43 -0500 Subject: Re: Blown Head gasket I ran an MGB GT for 8 years here in Canada in summer and winter and I do not drive "soft" but neither do I thrash the engine. The car's body collapsed under the weight of rust but the engine went into my friends car and is still smooth, lusty and pulls hard (sound like a girlfriend I had). It never saw leaded fuel! I then tested Shell Canada unleaded over a years driving an Austin Healey - they paid for everything. The engine was measured with a special jig made by Shell to determine wear - result? no signs of valve seat recession. I believe that hardened seats are great but not always required - unless you intend to thrash the engine (in which case something else will give too). If you look around you will see the marketing of many not really needed products from Nike, Coca Cola, Gap, MacDonalds, Disney etc so why should fuel additive companies be any different by promoting a false image that enhances their sales. - CONSUME DUMMY - it makes me rich! At 11:52 AM 12/31/01 -0600, Rocky Frisco wrote: >Lawrie Alexander wrote: > > > > Maynard, Maynard, Maynard............ > > > > So much good advice from your keyboard this year, and then you wait > till the > > very end to post this! Empirical tests have proven that hard seats prevent > > valve seat recession. Just about every qualified mechanic who has worked on > > cars that were not originally fitted with hard seats knows that they are > > necessary to prevent valve seat recession. The additional cost during a > > valve job is so small that, unless the finished rebuild is going to sit > in a > > trailer queen that never gets used, it's truly false economy not to have it > > done. > > > > I hate to close the year on a critical note, but hardened exhaust valve > > seats are a must when doing a valve job - if they have not already been > > fitted during prior work on the engine. You may choose, of course, for > > whatever reason, to find them unnecessary, but please don't try and > convince > > other neophytes to the world of engine rebuilds that your choice is the > most > > sensible! > >I've been building racing engines since 1964 and I'm beginning to >get an opinion on the hardened seats question. The present engine in >my Cooper S is a 1967 Cooper S Engine that came out of a car that >raced at Sebring way over 30 years ago. I installed an APT 286 >scatter cam when I built it. It has a very free-flow breathing >system with a single 1.75" HIF SU on it and an LCB exhaust system >with a free-flow silencer. I use a 3:44 diff and standard 4-synchro >trans. That puts me over 4k rpm when cruising on the motorway. Since >the original build, I've done an 800+ mile round trip from Tulsa to >Saint Louis and back, as well as many 200 mile round trips. I drive >fast and hard because it's fun (and I have four spare power units >stored for emergencies). > >I've had the head off three times for various reasons since then and >have seen no evidence at all of seat recession or valve wear even >though we haven't had leaded fuel here for decades. I have spare >heads in the garage, so my plan has been to wait until I see damage >beginning to manifest from the crap fuel, then to have the hardened >seats installed. So far there has been no damage, so no need. >Compression remains very good and very even. > >I have also heard horror stories about recession and wear using >unleaded, mostly from friends in the UK, I wonder if the petrol >formulations are quite different. > >The Victor MGB-TF is up on blocks waiting for some relatively warm >weather to get his new clutch TOB installed. One of these days I >will be building the spare B engine up to high performance specs to >install in the Victor, so I'm very interested in this discussion. > >-Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com >-- >Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com >JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm >The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans > >/// >/// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list >/// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net >/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool >/// >/// Send list postings to mgs@autox.team.net >/// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent. Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 12:42:49 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'Barrie Robinson'" , Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 11:42:00 -0800 Subject: RE: End of the year awards... Seconded: Taking a couple of moments to calm down. I may point out that the term "un-enthusiast" is more aptly applied to those unwilling to listen to the questions and appreciate the bubbling enjoyment of new owners. It's rather a pathetic way to end the year on this list. Kelvin Dodd. Still proud to be a part of this group. > -----Original Message----- > From: Barrie Robinson [mailto:barrier@bconnex.net] > Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 11:12 AM > To: The Awards Committee; mgs@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: End of the year awards... > > > I am sorry to find that even in the ranks of MG enthusiasts > we find people > of such small calibre and poor intellect such as the so > called "Awards > Committee". Significantly the person has not the guts to identify > himself/herself. If they did I would ask to be nominated as > I find nothing > wrong with Albert's or Enrique's communications. > > .........and now will the real un-enthusiast stand up > .........but I doubt it! /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 12:42:58 2001 From: Aeseeyou@aol.com To: the_awards_committee@yahoo.com Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 14:41:20 EST Subject: Re: End of the year awards... Ahem (the clearing of phlegm from throat...) I want to thank the "Committee" for this recognition. I know that my knowledge of the mechanical aspects of LBC's is very limited and I am not ashamed to admit it. Recognition of ones own faults is very important for growth. That is why I joined the list, to learn. Still I feel humbled that my "ignorance" has been singled out by this so-called "committee". All I want to know is do I get some kind of Trophy or Award? I should at least the name(s) of those on this "Awards Committee" so that these "people" can be given the proper recognition that they too deserve? I've never been too keen on Awards given anonymously. Either by people who wear pointed hoods, pointed hats or that hide behind the pointed Minarets of castle walls. These self appointed Knowers of all are just cowardly members of committees that have to cloak themselves in anonominity. Afterall, Noblesse Oblige, no? Most sincerely, Albert Escalante 1978 MGB /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 12:55:29 2001 From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" To: Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 14:57:42 -0600 Subject: Re: End of the year awards... "Delete".. But before I do, let me just say that we all start at the same place in this hobby, some of us just started a little sooner so therefore may know a little more, but we're all willing to share this wealth of knowledge and I thought that is why we have these lists. " Delete" HAPPY NEW, EVERYBODY ( you to a*?h*#!)who ever you are. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 13:02:37 2001 From: "mghirsch" To: Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 14:01:14 -0600 Subject: Re: Blown Head Gasket There is aobut 40000 miles on my car since I rebuilt the engine. I did not use hardened valve seats. This spring when I had to do a head gasket, I had the head and valves checked. There was no problem with either the valves or the seats. What has to be understood is that the seats themselves become hardened with use. The constant closing of the valves acts like a mini-forge and hardens the seat. While I'm not saying that no one has had a problem, I have not noticed it in any of my cars, or in the engines I have worked on. If you want to do it fine, but I have found more problems with the seats becoming loose than with valve recession. Maynard Hirsch /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 13:09:48 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'Barrie Robinson'" , Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 12:08:42 -0800 Subject: RE: Blown Head/now hardened seats When the US market changed over to Unleaded low octane fuel, British Leyland was faced with longevity issues with the venerable B series engine. To reduce the possibility of valve recession the valve seats of US bound engines were induction hardened. This was a very expensive process and it is very unlikely that the factory would have chosen this direction if there was no wearing issue. The original exhaust valves were retained, as it was determined that the material was suitable for the more critical application. After spending many years trying to source good usable B-Series and A-Series heads for customers. I can state that both designs are subject to a high degree of exhaust seat wear. The combination of high spring tension, hard use and iffy fuel quality and mixture tend to aggravate this wear. Each Persons Mileage May Vary (EPMMV) but I go on record stating that exhaust valve seat longevity is a limiting factor in A Series and B Series engines. Correctly installed hardened valve seats do improve this area. Obviously I would not suggest pulling down a running engine to install them. It's pretty obvious when they are needed, as the valve lash goes out on a weekly basis. Come to think of it, the argument seems rather academic. I don't think I have seen an original pre-75 head lately that had any exhaust valve seat left to quibble about. Kelvin Dodd > and is still smooth, lusty and pulls hard (sound like a girlfriend I > had). Barrie, thank you for this image. : ) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 13:15:53 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'Charlie & Jennifer Schellinck'" , Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 12:15:03 -0800 Subject: RE: Blown head gasket Also myne has ports for the air > pump that the DPO has put large bolts in to blank off I was > thinking of TIG welding them shut, any thoughts? > Adam: I think that TIG welding the ports shut is a bit of overkill. I use Allen socket plugs, available from a good supply house. Duh, I believe the thread is 9/16 fine, but don't quote me. It is a standard SAE fine thread. Once installed and the head painted, the plugs look stock. good luck with the project. Kelvin. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 13:31:36 2001 From: "Dave Munroe" To: mghirsch@netzero.net, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:30:14 -0400 Subject: Re: Blown Head Gasket I have had more experience with British bike cylinder heads than MG's, but the argument about hardened valve seats rages on amongst the enthusiasts of these machines also. In my personal, subjective experience with normal, non-hardened valve seats, the presence of lead in the fuel had no noticable effect in preventing valve-seat recession. In fact, few Brit-bike used cylinder heads from the 50's and 60's can be found without the valve seats being seriously pocketed. I think there are other factors that may be more influential than unleaded fuel on the longevity of valve seat material. I have no doubt, for example, that the average Brit Bike was thrashed, in every sense of the word, much more than the average LBC. My Triumphs have aluminum cylinder heads with cast-in, cast iron seats, similar to the material our MG's are cast from. I have a '68 Bonneville that made it to 1982 with good seats, at which time I restored it. It has a further 20,000 miles on it, all on unleaded fuel, and at last look this past season, the seats are still like new. But this bike is one of my pride and joys, and is never thrashed and always impeccably maintained. Other heads in my garage with much less use have seats receded past useful service. The variable seems to be running frequently at redline, (as in "racing"), extreme cam profiles requiring heavier than stock valve springs to avoid valve clash and float, poor or no maintenance, or use of cheap chain-store oil, and lack of proper air filtration. I suspect Maynard, you drive at less than redline and maintain your car properly as an enthusiast like you surely must. That is likely why your "soft" seats still are lookin'good. On my recent rebuild of my MGB's head, I had hardened seats installed never-the-less, because a/ they are relatively inexpensive to install, b/I have fitted a supercharger and a heavy-valve spring cam, and c/ I plan to thrash the bejeezus out of it at every opportunity because it goes soooo good. Be a good boy (girl!) and drive easy and your valve seats will last a long time. Pump up the pressure and drive it like a sports car often and you might like the extra life hardened valve seats bring to your cylinder head. Happy New Year! Dave >From: "mghirsch" >Reply-To: "mghirsch" >To: >Subject: Re: Blown Head Gasket >Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 14:01:14 -0600 > >There is aobut 40000 miles on my car since I rebuilt the engine. I did not >use hardened valve seats. This spring when I had to do a head gasket, I >had >the head and valves checked. There was no problem with either the valves >or >the seats. > >What has to be understood is that the seats themselves become hardened with >use. The constant closing of the valves acts like a mini-forge and hardens >the seat. > >While I'm not saying that no one has had a problem, I have not noticed it >in >any of my cars, or in the engines I have worked on. If you want to do it >fine, but I have found more problems with the seats becoming loose than >with >valve recession. > >Maynard Hirsch _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 13:41:35 2001 From: "Lawrie Alexander" To: "Barrie Robinson" , Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 12:26:07 -0800 Subject: Re: Blown Head gasket Barrie............ Two observations - first, I have been a professional mechanic, specializing in repairing British sports cars, since 1975. In those 26 years, I have encountered many instances where valves have burned and heads have been damaged as a result of using unleaded fuel in engines not designed for them. Second, typically it isn't "hard" driving that causes valves to burn. Rather travelling at steady speeds for hours at a time is more often the cause. Example: I rebuilt a TC engine for a customer who then drove from Malibu to Vail, Colorado and back, in company with a group of enthusiasts attending a GoF West event. When she arrived home, the car was running rough. A compression test revealed no compression in one cylinder. Removal of the head showed an exhaust valve with a pie-shaped section burned away! This just 3,000 miles or so after a professional rebuild. Now, you have to know that this was in 1978, when the need for modifications to cope with unleaded fuel was just becoming understood. We rebuilt the head again (under warranty, of course) but this time we fitted hardened exhaust seats. When I last heard from this customer, the car was still running beautifully, and it has been on many more long trips. That was twenty-odd years ago. Most engines we work on these days have already been fitted with hard seats, as the technology is certainly nothing new. This may account for why people who have not asked their machine shops to perform this work have had no problems with valve seat recession - either the hard seats were already there, or the machine shop installed them as a matter of course and didn't draw attention to that fact. As I said in my earlier post, it's not a particularly expensive procedure. I don't buy name-brand products because I'm influenced by extensive advertising. In fact, I resent those products because I believe the prices could be lower if they didn't spend so much on advertising! But, then, I'm an anachronistic old fogey (according to some of my friends!) - although I do believe that if there's a simple fix for a potential problem, it's worth taking. That's why I have a flu shot every year, and have hard exhaust seats fitted in all the engines I rebuild. Happy New Year to All! Lawrie British Sportscar Center (Who, by the way, most definitely was not on the "Awards Committee". That post was inappropriate and in extremely bad taste, IMNSHO.) -----Original Message----- From: Barrie Robinson To: Rocky Frisco ; mgs@autox.team.net Date: Monday, December 31, 2001 11:37 AM Subject: Re: Blown Head gasket >I ran an MGB GT for 8 years here in Canada in summer and winter and I do >not drive "soft" but neither do I thrash the engine. The car's body >collapsed under the weight of rust but the engine went into my friends car >and is still smooth, lusty and pulls hard (sound like a girlfriend I >had). It never saw leaded fuel! I then tested Shell Canada unleaded >over a years driving an Austin Healey - they paid for everything. The >engine was measured with a special jig made by Shell to determine wear - >result? no signs of valve seat recession. I believe that hardened seats >are great but not always required - unless you intend to thrash the engine >(in which case something else will give too). If you look around you will >see the marketing of many not really needed products from Nike, Coca Cola, >Gap, MacDonalds, Disney etc so why should fuel additive companies be any >different by promoting a false image that enhances their sales. - CONSUME >DUMMY - it makes me rich! /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 14:03:07 2001 From: "Brent Schwartz" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 15:11:54 -0600 Subject: MG Questions (and Answers) To those Singled out for their excellence: > Albert Escalante and Enrique Claure! I just want to say thanks to these two wonderfull people and all others on this list who had the courage to ask questions and get answers. I was mostly silent this year but many topics of discussion followed the problems I was having with my 77B. So, I took the knowledge and ran with it (so to speak). Brent PS. Somewhere between what I can afford, what I can accept, and what my wife will let me buy, there is a fun little British roadster that keeps a smile on my face. It's not a Classic TC/TD, nor is it a screaming TwinCam, not even a beloved Chrome Bumber B. It is just a plain little old Rubber Bumper B with a warmed-over engine and lot's of fun hidden inside. PPS. (Old English saying - I hope!) "Happy MG new year to all, and to all a good drive." /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 14:22:42 2001 From: James Schulte To: "Mgs@autox.team.net" Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:19:27 -0800 Subject: To end the year on a good note Listers, I wish to publicly thank Paul Root for his kindness in driving to a strangers house in the middle of the Minnesota winter and taking beautiful digital photos of a car I'm interested in. It is members like this on this list that make it fun to be a part of a unique group of enthusiasts. May this be a positive end to a disturbing year. Happy New Year to All !!! Jim 78B for sale 70B on a quest for a CGT /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 14:23:25 2001 From: "Malcolm Jeffcock" To: Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 17:21:59 -0400 Subject: compact spare Happy new year to all listers! I hope MG weather is soon at your door if not there yet. Which cars have the mini or doughnut space saver spare wheels which fit the bolt pattern for the MGB?? Thanks, Malcolm in Nova Scotia (about 3 1/2 months from getting out my B) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 14:18:53 2001 From: "Dave Munroe" To: Lawrie@britcars.com, barrier@bconnex.net, rock@rocky-frisco.com, Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 17:17:03 -0400 Subject: Re: Blown Head gasket Hey Lawrie; I defer to your extensive experience with these cars, but you have to explain to me how this: "When she arrived home, the car was running rough. A compression test revealed no compression in one cylinder. Removal of the head showed an exhaust valve with a pie-shaped section burned away!" .....is cured by the fitment of a hardened valve seat! Happy New Year to you too... Dave >From: "Lawrie Alexander" >Reply-To: "Lawrie Alexander" >To: "Barrie Robinson" , "Rocky Frisco" >, >Subject: Re: Blown Head gasket >Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 12:26:07 -0800 > >Barrie............ > >Two observations - first, I have been a professional mechanic, specializing >in repairing British sports cars, since 1975. In those 26 years, I have >encountered many instances where valves have burned and heads have been >damaged as a result of using unleaded fuel in engines not designed for >them. > >Second, typically it isn't "hard" driving that causes valves to burn. >Rather >travelling at steady speeds for hours at a time is more often the cause. >Example: I rebuilt a TC engine for a customer who then drove from Malibu to >Vail, Colorado and back, in company with a group of enthusiasts attending a >GoF West event. When she arrived home, the car was running rough. A >compression test revealed no compression in one cylinder. Removal of the >head showed an exhaust valve with a pie-shaped section burned away! This >just 3,000 miles or so after a professional rebuild. Now, you have to know > _________________________________________________________________ Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 14:27:34 2001 From: "Rick Brown" To: , Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:26:13 -0500 Subject: Re: End of the year awards... Great Come Back Albert!! Rick --------- http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil ---------- http://members.home.net/brown409 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 2:41 PM Subject: Re: End of the year awards... > Ahem (the clearing of phlegm from throat...) > I want to thank the "Committee" for this recognition. I know that my > knowledge of the mechanical aspects of LBC's is very limited and I am not > ashamed to admit it. Recognition of ones own faults is very important for > growth. That is why I joined the list, to learn. Still I feel humbled that my > "ignorance" has been singled out by this so-called "committee". All I want to > know is do I get some kind of Trophy or Award? I should at least the name(s) > of those on this "Awards Committee" so that these "people" can be given the > proper recognition that they too deserve? I've never been too keen on Awards > given anonymously. Either by people who wear pointed hoods, pointed hats or > that hide behind the pointed Minarets of castle walls. These self appointed > Knowers of all are just cowardly members of committees that have to cloak > themselves in anonominity. Afterall, Noblesse Oblige, no? > Most sincerely, Albert Escalante 1978 MGB /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 14:28:42 2001 From: "richard rivenbark" To: Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:28:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Blown Head/now hardened seats What about the C-series 2912 engine :)? I just torm my head down and only had carbon deposits to remove. Seats where still good. And yes it is an original 1969 head. Just my 2pennies. Tad R. Orlando, FL 69 MGC GT 74 RWA Midget ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'Barrie Robinson'" ; "Rocky Frisco" ; Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 3:08 PM Subject: RE: Blown Head/now hardened seats > When the US market changed over to Unleaded low octane fuel, British Leyland > was faced with longevity issues with the venerable B series engine. > > To reduce the possibility of valve recession the valve seats of US bound > engines were induction hardened. This was a very expensive process and it > is very unlikely that the factory would have chosen this direction if there > was no wearing issue. The original exhaust valves were retained, as it was > determined that the material was suitable for the more critical application. > > After spending many years trying to source good usable B-Series and A-Series > heads for customers. I can state that both designs are subject to a high > degree of exhaust seat wear. The combination of high spring tension, hard > use and iffy fuel quality and mixture tend to aggravate this wear. > > Each Persons Mileage May Vary (EPMMV) but I go on record stating that > exhaust valve seat longevity is a limiting factor in A Series and B Series > engines. Correctly installed hardened valve seats do improve this area. > Obviously I would not suggest pulling down a running engine to install them. > It's pretty obvious when they are needed, as the valve lash goes out on a > weekly basis. > > Come to think of it, the argument seems rather academic. I don't think I > have seen an original pre-75 head lately that had any exhaust valve seat > left to quibble about. > > Kelvin Dodd > > > > > and is still smooth, lusty and pulls hard (sound like a girlfriend I > > had). > > Barrie, thank you for this image. : ) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 14:29:28 2001 From: "Scott willis" To: , Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 15:30:16 -0600 Subject: Re: End of the year awards... Hey, if you get some kind of an award that will give me something to strive for next year! ~Scott 59 MGA ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 1:41 PM Subject: Re: End of the year awards... > Ahem (the clearing of phlegm from throat...) > I want to thank the "Committee" for this recognition. I know that my > knowledge of the mechanical aspects of LBC's is very limited and I am not > ashamed to admit it. Recognition of ones own faults is very important for > growth. That is why I joined the list, to learn. Still I feel humbled that my > "ignorance" has been singled out by this so-called "committee". All I want to > know is do I get some kind of Trophy or Award? I should at least the name(s) > of those on this "Awards Committee" so that these "people" can be given the > proper recognition that they too deserve? I've never been too keen on Awards > given anonymously. Either by people who wear pointed hoods, pointed hats or > that hide behind the pointed Minarets of castle walls. These self appointed > Knowers of all are just cowardly members of committees that have to cloak > themselves in anonominity. Afterall, Noblesse Oblige, no? > Most sincerely, Albert Escalante 1978 MGB /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 14:59:05 2001 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'richard rivenbark'" , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 13:58:24 -0800 Subject: RE: Blown Head/now hardened seats Tad: You mean the energiser bunny engines?? My experience with the MGC was that the cars would bury their noses into stationary objects long before the engines would wear out. Much less loading, and less liklihood of aggresive high revs driving. Most of the time the engine was just loafing. I know, I know. This doesn't describe the fire breathing antics of some of our incorrigable list members who own MGCs'. Interesting enough. When we went to build a hot 1275cc engine, we'd look for Austin America heads. The single valve springs and easier life mean't that the exhaust seats wern't hammered. Most of the AA heads were suitable for regrind, whereas the Spridget ones would tend to need at least a couple of seats. Kelvin. > > What about the C-series 2912 engine :)? I just torm my head > down and only > had carbon deposits to remove. Seats where still good. And > yes it is an > original 1969 head. > > Just my 2pennies. > Tad R. > Each Persons Mileage May Vary (EPMMV) but I go on record > stating that > > exhaust valve seat longevity is a limiting factor in A > Series and B Series > > engines. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 15:03:21 2001 From: "David Hill" To: "Rick Brown" , , Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 21:59:01 -0000 Subject: Re: End of the year awards... Perhaps the 'committee' should be aware that you are never too old to learn. OTOH, perhaps it is too young to have learned. Found out any more on that MGB rear brake disc conversion yet, Albert? Happy New Year, folks, David Hill ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Brown To: ; Cc: Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 9:26 PM Subject: Re: End of the year awards... > Great Come Back Albert!! > > Rick > --------- http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcouncil > ---------- http://members.home.net/brown409 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Cc: > Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 2:41 PM > Subject: Re: End of the year awards... > > > > Ahem (the clearing of phlegm from throat...) > > I want to thank the "Committee" for this recognition. I know that my > > knowledge of the mechanical aspects of LBC's is very limited and I am not > > ashamed to admit it. Recognition of ones own faults is very important for > > growth. That is why I joined the list, to learn. Still I feel humbled that > my > > "ignorance" has been singled out by this so-called "committee". All I want > to > > know is do I get some kind of Trophy or Award? I should at least the > name(s) > > of those on this "Awards Committee" so that these "people" can be given > the > > proper recognition that they too deserve? I've never been too keen on > Awards > > given anonymously. Either by people who wear pointed hoods, pointed hats > or > > that hide behind the pointed Minarets of castle walls. These self > appointed > > Knowers of all are just cowardly members of committees that have to cloak > > themselves in anonominity. Afterall, Noblesse Oblige, no? > > Most sincerely, Albert Escalante 1978 MGB /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 15:10:09 2001 From: "Lawrie Alexander" To: "Dave Munroe" , Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 13:50:03 -0800 Subject: Re: Blown Head gasket Sorry, Dave, I should have said that we also replaced the burnt valve. (Actually, all four of them, and a new head gasket as well.) Lawrie -----Original Message----- From: Dave Munroe To: Lawrie@britcars.com ; barrier@bconnex.net ; rock@rocky-frisco.com ; mgs@autox.team.net Date: Monday, December 31, 2001 1:17 PM Subject: Re: Blown Head gasket >Hey Lawrie; > >I defer to your extensive experience with these cars, but you have to >explain to me how this: > >"When she arrived home, the car was running rough. A compression test >revealed no compression in one cylinder. Removal of the head showed an >exhaust valve with a pie-shaped section burned away!" > >.....is cured by the fitment of a hardened valve seat! > >Happy New Year to you too... > > >Dave /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 15:17:05 2001 From: steveb5815@juno.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 17:11:56 -0500 Subject: Re: Blown head gasket 7/16-20 thread for the air ports on an MGB head. I too used the bolt method to block them but a 7/16 fine thread set screw would look much better. It is not a common size to find in the local hardware or home improvement store. McMaster Carr carries them though. SteveB On Mon, 31 Dec 2001 12:15:03 -0800 "Dodd, Kelvin" writes: > > thinking of TIG welding them shut, any thoughts? > > > > Adam: > > I think that TIG welding the ports shut is a bit of > overkill. I use > Allen socket plugs, available from a good supply house. Duh, I > believe the > thread is 9/16 fine, but don't quote me. It is a standard SAE fine > thread. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 15:47:32 2001 From: Paul Root To: James Schulte Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:46:04 -0600 Subject: Re: To end the year on a good note It was nothing really. I got to forget winter for a little while, while going and seeing a really nice LBC (two actually). Nice guy selling it too. Meanwhile, my poor 'B sits sleeping in a pole barn for at least 3 more months. It's got a Miata (my friends) and a Model T pickup to keep it company. That truck was rescued from one barn and put in another. It needs lovin'. Besides, it was 4 degrees F ABOVE, my wife doesn't even zip her jacket on warm days like this. :-) Paul. James Schulte wrote: > > Listers, > I wish to publicly thank Paul Root for his kindness in driving to a > strangers house in the middle of the Minnesota winter and taking > beautiful digital photos of a car I'm interested in. It is members like > this on this list that make it fun to be a part of a unique group of > enthusiasts. May this be a positive end to a disturbing year. > Happy New Year to All !!! > Jim > 78B for sale > 70B > on a quest for a CGT > > /// > /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list > /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net > /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool > /// > /// Send list postings to mgs@autox.team.net > /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 16:05:49 2001 From: "J.R. Leach" To: "Tara Ford" , Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 18:11:03 -0500 Subject: HAPPY NEW YEAR !! Happy New Year Everyone ! May your 2002 be the best year ever ! health and happiness to all. , Jim & Mary Leach /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 16:07:15 2001 From: Eric To: MGS Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 09:38:12 +1030 Subject: Re: Anyone looking for Parts? [Yahoo! Clubs: My Classic MGB] "Andrew B. Lundgren" wrote: > > (quoting someone else....) > > Hey, I have not quite yet started on my 1972 MGB but I am > going to be turning it into a 289 Cobra Look a like OK, here is the plan. We ring this person up saying we are interested in the 'parts'. We get their address and sneak around there in the early hours of the morning to 'liberate' this "very complete and has all its parts the transmission is good and all the body is clean and rust and damage Free" 'B! -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 16:28:28 2001 From: Carl Elliott To: MGs List , Spridgets Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 18:30:09 -0500 Subject: ED I am for returning Ed . I always took his remarks as great, I got a kick out of him and he was very helpful not only to myself but to many others. And he did get on my case a time or two. But this is what Freedom of Speech is all about. Carl E. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 16:30:24 2001 From: Eric To: Mgs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 10:01:28 +1030 Subject: What a sad time it is Well, 2002 marks a sad year here in Australia (speaking of hardened valve seats). 1st January is the official start of the ban on selling leaded fuel at bowsers - people will be forced to use Lead Replacement Petrol (yuk!) or unleaded fuel. Which means also, of course, that those few places that sold AVGAS have had those bowsers shut down too. All in the name of 'cleaner air'. In a strange twist, our motorsport body (CAMS) had banned AVGAS from the track (following those 'clean air' guidelines, too) but reversed this decision a few months ago. Or rather delayed it until the end of 2002. Yet that does not hold any sway with the Government's ban on selling the stuff from bowsers, so getting our hands on this 'nectar of the gods' is going to be a problem. At least in Britain they have recognised that this is a silly, knee-jerk reaction that will disadvantage owners of classic cars needlessly and have relented to re-introduce leaded (4 star) fuel which will become available at 'selected' outlets. Yes, I am upset. It has taken a few years to get my car running really well and it does this on AVGAS. I strongly believe that the amount of 'enthusiasts' who would pay the extra 30% that it costs to use AVGAS wouldn' make a blip on the pollution scale and this ban has been simply a PR exercise - and a discriminatory move that ignores specialist needs. There.... I have said my bit. And having said that, I am now asking my boss at work if I can borrow his aeroplane registration papers so I can buy drums of the fuel from the airport. They haven't banned it there. grrrrrrrr -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 16:40:58 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: Eric , Mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 17:19:09 -0600 Subject: Re: What a sad time it is Eric (in Australia) wrote: > And having said that, I am now asking my boss at work if I can borrow > his aeroplane registration papers so I can buy drums of the fuel from > the airport. They haven't banned it there. That's odd, don't you think? Those Cessnas and Pipers and such use the same air we do, don't they? Time to start calling politicoes and raising heck. Why special favours for plane owners and not classic vehicle owners? I dare say the situations are similar and I'll bet there are more gallons of petrol burned by those planes than by our classic cars. -Rock (in Oklahoma, USA) http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 16:58:49 2001 From: WSpohn4@aol.com To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 18:57:00 EST Subject: Re: Blown Head gasket In a message dated 12/31/01 3:42:27 PM Pacific Standard Time, owner-mgs-digest@autox.team.net writes: > Second, typically it isn't "hard" driving that causes valves to burn. Rather > travelling at steady speeds for hours at a time is more often the cause. > Exactly, Lawrie. I have experienced wear on my low mileage Jensen CV-8 (found out about it when I had to pull a head for something else), which I rebuilt just before lead became an issue. I have not done all that many miles on it, but many have been going to and from meets in California from BC - 10 hours at a time on the highway seems a formula for accelerated wear. Oh yes - let me say that this 'awards' business is in the poorest of taste - no wonder the perpetrators have chosen to hide their names. The people cited are presumably young and enthusiastic, and have perhaps not yet learned all there is to know about their cars (who among us has?). Since when has unbridled enthusiasm been a sin? We were all there once - that's why they read this group - to learn. I would much rather tolerate their sometimes simplistic questions than your malicious response. Bill Spohn (hoping that the bronze seats in the Lamborghini are up to the job!) /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 17:10:00 2001 From: dave houser To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 19:08:53 -0800 Subject: New Year's Wish Good Folks, Just wanted to wish everyone on this list a safe, healthy and happy new year. Safety Fast in 2002!, Dave Houser /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 17:14:37 2001 From: rexcats@pacbell.net To: "MG List " Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:13:36 -0800 (PST) Subject: MGB First Days Hi everyone! Been off the list for awhile but here is the begining story on the 79 MGB we got for our son Justin, anyone cares to look feel free. will send the second story next. Lisa Ann Visit my online photo album called: "MGB First Days" http://www.picturetrail.com/chiffon/542190 FREE Online Photo Albums: http://www.picturetrail.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 17:16:49 2001 From: rexcats@pacbell.net To: "MG list" Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:15:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: Engine Troubles for The 79 MGB Hi again! Here is the second part of the story, the happy ending will come when she all goes back together! Will share that with you all when we get that done. Thanks for looking and advice. Hope everyone has a most magical enchanting New Year! Thanks Lisa Ann Visit my online photo album called: "Engine Troubles for The 79 MGB" http://www.picturetrail.com/chiffon/542440 FREE Online Photo Albums: http://www.picturetrail.com /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 17:28:10 2001 From: "Larry Hoy" To: "'Malcolm Jeffcock'" , Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 17:26:55 -0700 Subject: RE: compact spare Saab and Volvo. Larry Hoy > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net > [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm Jeffcock > Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 2:22 PM > To: mgs@autox.team.net > Subject: compact spare > > > Happy new year to all listers! I hope MG weather is soon at > your door if not there yet. > > Which cars have the mini or doughnut space saver spare wheels > which fit the bolt pattern for the MGB?? > > Thanks, > Malcolm in Nova Scotia (about 3 1/2 months > from getting out my > B) > > /// > /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list > /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net > /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool > /// > /// Send list postings to mgs@autox.team.net > /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they > will NOT be sent. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 17:35:08 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Eric , MGS Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:33:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: 2002 Hey, you're ruining the surprise for the rest of us, mate!! Happy New Year to Oz (and everyone esle too!) --- Eric wrote: > Happy New Year... > > (don't worry, it will reach you, too, soon!) ===== Dan DiBiase Dayton, NJ '76 MGB Tourer (Driver) '65 MGB Tourer (Project) http://members.home.net/dibiase/Working_MG_Gallery.html NAMGBR #5-2328 /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 17:48:33 2001 From: Dan DiBiase To: Dave Munroe , mghirsch@netzero.net, Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:47:28 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Blown Head Gasket Ok, at the risk of being a nominee for the 2002 'non-enthusiasts' award... If you have the head off, why WOULDN'T you install hardened valve seats, using the rule of 'better safe than sorry'...? Is it a cost issue? --- Dave Munroe wrote: the argument about hardened valve seats rages on amongst the enthusiasts of these machines also. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 17:49:13 2001 From: Peter Guagenti To: Rocky Frisco , MG Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:46:35 -0800 Subject: Re: Radiator / Thermostat Question on MGA DeLuxe on 12/31/01 10:06 AM, Rocky Frisco at rock@rocky-frisco.com wrote: > Only once have I had a t-stat housing that simply wouldn't come off > no matter what. I double-nutted the studs and pulled them, then used > a block of wood against the side of the housing and a hammer to > break it loose. Usually the block and hammer will do the trick I'll try this. Thanks for the tip. -p /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 18:03:08 2001 From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" To: "Carl Elliott" , "MGs List" Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 18:01:58 -0700 Subject: Re: ED I think he can come out of the corner now.... I had a lot of fun making fun of him when he flamed me. :) On Mon, 31 Dec 2001 18:30:09 -0500, Carl Elliott wrote: >I am for returning Ed . I always took his remarks as great, I got a kick >out of him and he was very helpful not only to myself but to many >others. And he did get on my case a time or two. But this is what >Freedom of Speech is all about. Carl E. > -- Andrew Lundgren lundgren@byu.net http://lundgren.denver.co.us /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 18:08:45 2001 From: Eric To: MGs List Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 11:37:33 +1030 Subject: Re: ED Carl Elliott wrote: > >I am for returning Ed . > They won't give you your money back, you know! -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 18:32:53 2001 From: Barney Gaylord To: Patton Dickson Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 19:33:02 -0600 Subject: Re: ID'ing engine parts At 09:55 PM 12/30/01 -0600, Patton Dickson wrote: >.... Thanks for that level of detail, I needed that.... > >So my heads and generator are likely to be off the original 67 motor .... > >.... it appears that I also have the early starter .... Does that mean >that I can assume a correct transfer of the 10-inch flywheel (120 tooth >ring gear) to that "early" inertia type starter, and therefore I have the >3-synchronizer gearbox . Impeccable logic. >Would the later style oil filter you described be offset towards the >passenger side of the car rather than towards the front? Yes. Most of the offset is towards the side, but it may be set just slightly forward as well. If it is the offset hanging adapter it could be set straight off to the side with the early (shorter) starter motor. >.... >Does I sound like I am on the right track in saying that my engine has >only had the block "updated" (along with the oil filter) and the starter, >generator, heads, and gearbox seem to remain correct for 1967? Most likely correct, so just treat it like it was all original 1967 issue parts, and drive it and enjoy it. You would only be concerned about the parts in the block assembly if something inside had to be replaced. Enjoy your new toy, Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 18:37:19 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: Dan DiBiase , mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 19:33:57 -0600 Subject: Re: Blown Head Gasket Dan DiBiase wrote: > > Ok, at the risk of being a nominee for the 2002 'non-enthusiasts' award... > If you have the head off, why WOULDN'T you install hardened valve seats, > using the rule of 'better safe than sorry'...? Is it a cost issue? Maybe "IIABDFI" ? ;) -Rock (wearing flame-retardant pajamas) http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 18:51:48 2001 From: Bud Krueger To: Carl Elliott Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 20:50:32 -0500 Subject: Re: ED Carl, What do you by 'returning Ed'? Did I miss something? Bud Krueger Carl Elliott wrote: > I am for returning Ed . I always took his remarks as great, I got a kick > out of him and he was very helpful not only to myself but to many > others. And he did get on my case a time or two. But this is what > Freedom of Speech is all about. Carl E. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 19:47:25 2001 From: "Malcolm Jeffcock" To: Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 22:46:04 -0400 Subject: Re: compact spare Larry: you're kidding me right? I have an 88 Saab 9000 Turbo and never even thought to compare the patterns! What do they say about not being afraid to look benoeath your nose? Malcolm ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Hoy" To: "'Malcolm Jeffcock'" ; Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 8:26 PM Subject: RE: compact spare > Saab and Volvo. > > Larry Hoy > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net > > [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm Jeffcock > > Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 2:22 PM > > To: mgs@autox.team.net > > Subject: compact spare > > > > > > Happy new year to all listers! I hope MG weather is soon at > > your door if not there yet. > > > > Which cars have the mini or doughnut space saver spare wheels > > which fit the bolt pattern for the MGB?? > > > > Thanks, > > Malcolm in Nova Scotia (about 3 1/2 months > > from getting out my > > B) > > > > /// > > /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list > > /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net > > /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool > > /// > > /// Send list postings to mgs@autox.team.net > > /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they > > will NOT be sent. > > /// > /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list > /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net > /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool > /// > /// Send list postings to mgs@autox.team.net > /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent. /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 20:23:23 2001 From: Bud Krueger To: MG List , mg-t Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 22:22:07 -0500 Subject: New Year at Plymouth Rock At least three of us (B, MGA, TD) plan to be at Plymouth Rock tomorrow about 11 am. Anybody care to join us? Temp should be almost up to 20F. (No, I won't have the TD's top up, but I will have the heater on.) Happy New Year to all, Bud Krueger 52TD /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 20:36:51 2001 From: Eric To: MGS Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 14:05:14 +1030 Subject: Re: What a sad time it is Valerie Stabenow wrote: > > HI and WHAT are bowsers? > Well, a bowser isn't a dog it is a petrol pump (not a gas pump because most of our LBCs do not run on LPG gas but there *are* gas bowsers at most petrol stations now). You have to be multi-lingual to be on this list (like a bonnet is the big flap of metal that you lift to work on your engine and a hood is the thing you fold back or take off altogether if you are a proper MG nut). > I live in Illinois/USA, so this is a new one for me. > That is why I now include my country of origin in my .sig and why I said "2002 marks a sad year here in Australia". This list can be a little US-centric at times so it is best to make these things clear (including things like what State you are in when you are selling something) right up front. To make my life easier I will often use US terminology unless I am spewing forth passionately or in a grumpy mood :-) With no regular mechanical or pollution-control checks on cars here (particularly in *my* State in Australia) we have a very big ownership of older vehicles so we have managed to hold off this unleaded fuel thing longer than some. Not long enough as far as I am concerned. I think the fuel companies have actually driven the push to drop leaded fuel - certainly not the general public - and there have been fibs told to make it happen. As I mentioned previously, my car runs wonderfully on AVGAS 110/115 octane. Anything below 100 octane and she pinks nastily when low in gear. Of course with a bit of work I can stop that... but I hate to fiddle with the thing when it works so well and I am happy to pay my $AU1.30 per litre when all around me are paying $AU0.87 per litre. Why shouldn't I be allowed to? To my mind this is descriminatory in another way and that is against poorer people who generally have older cars that run best/properly on leaded petrol (Lead Replacement Petrol is NOT the same). See what they have done to make my New Year happy... in fact it was one of the first things I thought of when I woke up this morning (sad, isn't it). grrrrrrrr -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 20:47:08 2001 From: "Denise Thorpe" To: mgs@autox.team.net, "Rocky Frisco" Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 22:50:1 -0500 Subject: Re: Blown Head gasket Me too. I've never put hardened valve seats into any of my MG's and I've never seen any valve recession. My first '67B has 300K miles on it, 200K put on by me since I bought it in '79 (multiple short blocks, same pre-smog head). I was also waiting for evidence before I cut into the head, but I haven't seen any. However, I have seen the mess that results when a hardened valve seat comes loose. Not pretty! But then, there's the argument that older heads that were used when gas had lead in it are already impregnated with lead and therefore don't wear. That's possible too. If I'm ever so far ahead on restorations that I get around to putting a cross-flow head on a '67B (which will necessarily be new and not lead-soaked) I plan to pull the thing off after a few thousand miles and look for wear. Or do they come with hardened seats? Denise Rocky said, > I've had the head off three times for various reasons since then and > have seen no evidence at all of seat recession or valve wear even > though we haven't had leaded fuel here for decades. --- Denise Thorpe --- xyzabcde@earthlink.n /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 20:44:25 2001 From: Eric To: MG List Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 14:13:14 +1030 Subject: Re: New Year at Plymouth Rock Bud Krueger wrote: > > At least three of us (B, MGA, TD) plan to be at Plymouth Rock tomorrow about 11 > am. Anybody care to join us? Temp should be almost up to 20F. (No, I won't > have the TD's top up, but I will have the heater on.) > ... and you wanna know why else I am grumpy? Check out our weather forecast (and this is AUSTRALIA and this is meant to be the height of SUMMER). The temperatures are metric in Celsius where 20C = approx 68F brrrrrrrr This, supposedly, is our coldest December on record and certainly not LBC weather! ADELAIDE METROPOLITAN AREA Tuesday : Cool with cloudy periods and a few showers. Fresh west to southwest winds easing this evening. Wednesday : Cool with cloudy periods and a few showers, chiefly during the morning. Fresh southwest winds moderating towards evening. Adelaide City Min 13 Max 20 Next two days for Adelaide City : Thursday : Min 13 Max 22 Becoming fine. Friday : Min 12 Max 23 Fine. Partly cloudy. TREND for Saturday, Sunday and Monday : Fine and warmer at first. A cooler southwest wind change later in the weekend with a shower or two. Maximum temperatures in the high 20's falling to the low 20's after the change. -- Eric '68MGB MkII Adelaide, South Australia "Hello. My name is Inigo Montoya. You killed my father. Prepare to die." /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 21:07:15 2001 From: Rocky Frisco To: Denise Thorpe Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 22:02:52 -0600 Subject: Re: Blown Head gasket Denise Thorpe wrote: > > Me too. I've never put hardened valve seats into any of my MG's and I've > never seen any valve recession. My first '67B has 300K miles on it, 200K > put on by me since I bought it in '79 (multiple short blocks, same pre-smog > head). I was also waiting for evidence before I cut into the head, but I > haven't seen any. However, I have seen the mess that results when a > hardened valve seat comes loose. Not pretty! > > But then, there's the argument that older heads that were used when gas had > lead in it are already impregnated with lead and therefore don't wear. > That's possible too. If I'm ever so far ahead on restorations that I get > around to putting a cross-flow head on a '67B (which will necessarily be > new and not lead-soaked) I plan to pull the thing off after a few thousand > miles and look for wear. Or do they come with hardened seats? No idea. The discussion has me pondering. I'm coming to this tentative conclusion: Valves and seats can sometimes be as individual and different as people or weasels or snowflakes. Remember the (apparently true) story about thousands of racing crankshafts that accidentally went into plodgy Austin Americas with standard transmissions for export to the USA? Most of these are autos (crap), but many of the standard cars can be bought for the value of the starter motor and they might well have an ENB40 nitrided and balanced crankshaft, which is worth much more now than the original selling price of the cars. I'll bet both hardened and standard old fashioned valve seats vary wildly in their characteristics, maybe even depending on what the foreman had for lunch, so everybody is speaking from wisdom and experience with seats, but the valve seats were seriously different. In any case, it would appear that the safest thing would be to have the new ones installed really well by a qualified shop the next time it's easy. On the other hand, it hurts me to fix something that doesn't seem to be broken in any way. I'm certainly open to any further relevant information in the mean time. ;) -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 21:12:36 2001 From: "Denise Thorpe" To: mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 23:15:38 -0500 Subject: Rusty '67B firewall /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Dec 31 22:51:40 2001 From: gary kendall To: mjeffcock@tru.eastlink.ca, mgs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 12:49:33 -0500 Subject: Re: compact spare Malcom, Your 9000 spare won't fit. You need an 87 and older 900 or 99 . The 9000 and 88 and newer 900 has a smaller bolt pattern. Gary Kendall On Mon, 31 Dec 2001 22:46:04 -0400 "Malcolm Jeffcock" writes: > Larry: > you're kidding me right? I have an 88 Saab 9000 Turbo > and never > even thought to compare the patterns! > > What do they say about not being afraid to look benoeath > your > nose? > > Malcolm /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool ///