From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jun 1 13:24:56 1999 From: Dick Dell To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 15:21:13 -0400 Subject: Brakes (again) Hello all, Still working on brakes on my TF. Fronts are done and new master cylinder works fine. But when I put the rears back together and put the hubs back on I find that I have a rub when I rotate the rear hub on the left side. Taking the drum off again I see a scratch mark where the retaining spring is rubbing against the drum. While I replaced the shoes and wheel cylinder I did not replace these parts. It almost is like the retaining pin is too long. But it was OK before so (?) I shimmed the retaining pin from behind with a flat washer and that helped but still a little rub. I'll shim with a thicker washer but I still wonder what I might have changed to cause this. Any suggestions? Dick Dell From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jun 1 14:53:04 1999 From: Dick Dell To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 16:49:31 -0400 Subject: Brakes again Hello all, I wasn't quite accurate in my description of which spring was rubbing on my rear brakes. It's the anti rattle spring (small coil spring with cup washer holding in place.) It's the top of the cup washer that is rubbing against the brake drum when together. Dick Dell From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jun 1 15:28:51 1999 From: Bud Krueger To: Dick Dell Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 17:31:02 -0700 Subject: Re: Brakes again Dick, I know from beans about TF's but in the TD the anti-rattle spring doesn't function with a cup washer, that I recall. It sounds as if you're describing a 'modern' brake positioning device. Look at Moss' catalog #181-340 SPRING, brake shoe steady, or Abingdon Spares 33-41 Anti-rattle spring. Maybe I'm just an OF having a senior moment. Bud Krueger 52TD (NEMGTR #9826 ,Plymouth to Kennenkport on Saturday) Dick Dell wrote: > Hello all, > > I wasn't quite accurate in my description of which spring was rubbing on my > rear brakes. It's the anti rattle spring (small coil spring with cup washer > holding in place.) It's the top of the cup washer that is rubbing against > the brake drum when together. > > Dick Dell From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jun 2 09:30:41 1999 From: Kma4444@aol.com To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 11:27:52 EDT Subject: YT I have a customer's YT here in the shop and I need a resource for information on details about the car . It is an extremely nice car , solid no rust , great wood , runs and drives good . I am about to go through this little jewel , it has been painted some mercedes goldish color , I will repaint it BRG . I need to know stuff like beading color , trim colors , etc.... Is there a good place to go to find out any of this stuff. Thanks; Kevin Allen A&S Chassisworks From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jun 2 12:47:18 1999 From: TATERRY@aol.com To: Kma4444@aol.com, mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 14:44:50 EDT Subject: Re: YT Kevin, there are several books on Y types, check out Britbooks on the web....Skip Kelsey(kelsey@shadetreemotors.com) on this list has a YA and Bobrich@aol.com has been doing some mechanical work on a Y type. Good luck, YT's are pretty rare, only 600+ made. Terry From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jun 2 19:00:02 1999 From: MG49YT@aol.com To: Kma4444@aol.com, mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 20:58:10 EDT Subject: Re: YT Kevin, I have 49 YT that I am in the process of restoring, the best source for information is the book "Let There Be Y's" by David Lawrence, it isn't in the most recent catalog from bookspeed, but I know you can get it through Dennis Doubtfire, at MGCC MG Car Club Y Register. If you have any questions in the meantime please email me. There were actually 877 of them built and the car Terry mentioned that Bob Rich is working on is mine. There is also a gentleman in WA that started the North American Y Registry. OldMGman@aol.com if your customer wants to register the car and hasn't done so. Nancy << I have a customer's YT here in the shop and I need a resource for information on details about the car. It is an extremely nice car, solid no rust, great wood, runs and drives good. I am about to go through this little jewel, it has been painted some mercedes goldish color, I will repaint it BRG . I need to know stuff like beading color, trim colors, etc.... Is there a good place to go to find out any of this stuff. Thanks; Kevin Allen A&S Chassisworks >> From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jun 2 19:33:01 1999 From: Dick Dell To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 21:29:13 -0400 Subject: tires Hello all, I'm putting new tires on the TF. Most of the big name brands no longer make the proper size but Dunlop makes the SP20 in a 165 x 15. Does anyone have these tires of their TD/TF? If so how are they (not that I have much choice.) Dick Dell Raleigh NC From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jun 2 19:51:13 1999 From: Bud Krueger To: Dick Dell Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 21:53:27 -0700 Subject: Re: tires Dick, A few weeks ago I threw a chunk of rubber from the tread of my twelve year old Semperits. An Internet search of tire manufacturers led me to Dunlop as a source of tires in 165R15. My TD now sports a new set of Dunlop SP20 165R15 tires at a cost of about $230 installed/balanced/etc. So far they seem fine around town. This Saturday I plan to motor down Maine to the NEMGTR GOF, about 125 miles each way. I'll let you know how they handle it. Bud Krueger 52TD 77MGB Dick Dell wrote: > Hello all, > > I'm putting new tires on the TF. Most of the big name brands no longer make > the proper size but Dunlop makes the SP20 in a 165 x 15. Does anyone have > these tires of their TD/TF? If so how are they (not that I have much choice.) > > Dick Dell > Raleigh NC From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jun 2 21:47:44 1999 From: Lewis Palmer To: Dick Dell , mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 20:46:13 -0700 Subject: RE: tires I've had SP4's (similar to the SP20) on the TD for several years. These are the first radials I've had on the car, so I can't compare them to anything else, but I'd never go back. I have over 20,000 miles on the current set with no sign of wear. They hold the road well, although they are a bit small, so the RPMs are higher than they would be with a larger (taller) tire. I also have similar Dunlops on my MGA, my J2, and my Jeep (obviously not all the same size). Same report for all vehicles. Regards, Lew Palmer -----Original Message----- From: Dick Dell [mailto:rddell@mindspring.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 8:29 PM To: mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: tires Hello all, I'm putting new tires on the TF. Most of the big name brands no longer make the proper size but Dunlop makes the SP20 in a 165 x 15. Does anyone have these tires of their TD/TF? If so how are they (not that I have much choice.) Dick Dell Raleigh NC From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jun 3 04:36:40 1999 From: JohnOmg@aol.com To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 06:34:50 EDT Subject: Re: tires --part1_f17515a7.2487b44a_boundary I put the Dunlop SP4s on my TD a dozen years ago and they've worked fine. My only disappointment is where they were made. I chose Dunlop for British authenticity, but after they were mounted I saw that they were "Made in Japan." So I've got Japanese tires and a Harley mirror on my classic British sportscar. John Olman In a message dated 6/2/99 11:46:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lpalmer@vanstar.com writes: << Hello all, I'm putting new tires on the TF. Most of the big name brands no longer make the proper size but Dunlop makes the SP20 in a 165 x 15. Does anyone have these tires of their TD/TF? If so how are they (not that I have much choice.) Dick Dell Raleigh NC >> --part1_f17515a7.2487b44a_boundary Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-ya04.mx.aol.com (rly-ya04.mail.aol.com [172.18.144.196]) by air-ya02.mail.aol.com (v59.34) with SMTP; Wed, 02 Jun 1999 23:46:52 -0400 Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu (triumph.cs.utah.edu [155.99.188.52]) by rly-ya04.mx.aol.com (vx) with SMTP; Wed, 02 Jun 1999 23:46:40 -0400 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by triumph.cs.utah.edu (8.9.1/8.9.1) id VAA12488 for mg-t-actors; Wed, 2 Jun 1999 21:47:38 -0600 (MDT) Received: from amanogawa.vanstar.com (smtp.vanstar.com [206.193.214.41]) by triumph.cs.utah.edu (8.9.1/8.9.1) with ESMTP id VAA12483 for ; Wed, 2 Jun 1999 21:47:35 -0600 (MDT) Received: by smtp.vanstar.com with Internet Mail Service (5.5.2448.0) id ; Wed, 2 Jun 1999 20:46:15 -0700 Message-ID: <6D830F9EF106D2118E8B00A0C98F14FA01A15C0A@fuji.vanstar.com> From: Lewis Palmer To: Dick Dell , mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: RE: tires Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 20:46:13 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2448.0) charset="windows-1252" Sender: owner-mg-t@autox.team.net Precedence: bulk I've had SP4's (similar to the SP20) on the TD for several years. These are the first radials I've had on the car, so I can't compare them to anything else, but I'd never go back. I have over 20,000 miles on the current set with no sign of wear. They hold the road well, although they are a bit small, so the RPMs are higher than they would be with a larger (taller) tire. I also have similar Dunlops on my MGA, my J2, and my Jeep (obviously not all the same size). Same report for all vehicles. Regards, Lew Palmer -----Original Message----- From: Dick Dell [mailto:rddell@mindspring.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 8:29 PM To: mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: tires Hello all, I'm putting new tires on the TF. Most of the big name brands no longer make the proper size but Dunlop makes the SP20 in a 165 x 15. Does anyone have these tires of their TD/TF? If so how are they (not that I have much choice.) Dick Dell Raleigh NC --part1_f17515a7.2487b44a_boundary-- From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jun 3 05:23:20 1999 From: Bob Howard To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 07:21:41 EDT Subject: British Cars by the Sea- Waterford, CT A reminder that the CT MG Club is holding its annual British Cars by the Sea show at Harkness Memorial State Park, Rte 213, Waterford (near New London) on Sunday. Registration at 10:00. Mostly postwar MGs, TRs and Jaguars, there are usually a number of other marques too. The park is an old estate that overlooks Fishers Island Sound and, with some imagination, one can see Lands End over the horizon. As of this writing, the weather is forecast to be perfect for the show and for the driving to get there. Bob From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jun 3 07:49:29 1999 From: "Moorhead, Tim" To: "'mg-t@autox.team.net'" Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:44:50 -0500 Subject: RE: tires Gosh, I haven't heard Semperit tires mentioned by anyone in a long time. Back in 1978, I acquired a '73 240Z which needed tires, and Road & Track had just run a radial tire comparison which rated Goodyear at #1 and Semperits as #2. The price difference was significant, so I put the Semperits on the Z. It was the first time I had had radial tires on any car, and I was astounded. They were absolutely a wonderful set of tires. The handling was great, wet traction was great, and living in northern Ohio at the time, the Semperits negated any need for snow tires. If I recall, Semperits were made in Ireland. It's too bad they went out of business. They were some of the best. In 1989, when I acquired my first T-car, a '51 TD, it had bias-plys. When I put the radials on it, I was again astounded at the handling difference. My thought is, "To heck with authenticity, I'm never gonna run anything but radials". My TF runs 165-80-15's and at the last slalom that I ran, my time was faster than 8 of the 10 MGB's. I attribute much of that to the tires, some to the car's great handling characteristics, and maybe a bit to my knowledge of how my car handles. Radials Forever, Tim in Dallas > -----Original Message----- > From: Bud Krueger [SMTP:bkrueger@ici.net] > Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 11:53 PM > To: Dick Dell > Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: tires > > Dick, > > A few weeks ago I threw a chunk of rubber from the tread of my twelve > year > old Semperits. An Internet search of tire manufacturers led me to Dunlop > as a > source of tires in 165R15. My TD now sports a new set of Dunlop SP20 > 165R15 > tires at a cost of about $230 installed/balanced/etc. So far they seem > fine > around town. This Saturday I plan to motor down Maine to the NEMGTR GOF, > about > 125 miles each way. I'll let you know how they handle it. > > Bud Krueger > 52TD > 77MGB > > Dick Dell wrote: > > > Hello all, > > > > I'm putting new tires on the TF. Most of the big name brands no longer > make > > the proper size but Dunlop makes the SP20 in a 165 x 15. Does anyone > have > > these tires of their TD/TF? If so how are they (not that I have much > choice.) > > > > Dick Dell > > Raleigh NC > > From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jun 3 09:16:39 1999 From: John Seim To: Dick Dell Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 08:16:35 -0700 Subject: Re: tires Just what do you mean by the right size? Are you talking about 5.50 x 15 tires? How would you feel about 5.60 x 15? We have known for years that this was a most common size tire, and that we should have no problem finding this size, as Volkswagons used the same (or near to the same) size tire. When they went from bias ply to radial, hence the change from 5.60 x 15 to 165 R 15, availability shouldn't have dried up. And, if oriigionality is what you seek, look to a Volkswagon parts place. One of our members was looking for bias ply wide white walls for his TD. He finally found Denman bias ply tires with wide white walls at a Volkswagon Bug Haus. Blackwalls might also be found there, as well as a selection of radial tires, or at least suppliers. John Seim From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jun 3 09:46:53 1999 From: Bob Howard To: kingseim@earthlink.net Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:43:20 EDT Subject: Re: tires John, One of our CT MG Club members also commented about the supply drying up. He wanted new radials, was happy to buy 165x15s again, but found that the number of manufacturers of this size was considerably smaller than last time he bought. He, too, figured that with a bazillion VWs in the USA, there would be a great choice, but that was not his experience. Further, he found that of this reduced choice, tread patterns were modern, swirly designs that he didn't want for his TD. Eventually he found Vreidsteins (sp?) that he though looked right and bought a set. I've not heard a use report from him yet, not that our TDs are demanding of their tires. Whatever the difficulty of finding 165x15, I hope that noone repeats my mistake of buying 5.60x15 Firestone bias plys. They're wearing out fast, but not fast enough. Bob On Thu, 03 Jun 1999 08:16:35 -0700 John Seim writes: >Just what do you mean by the right size? Are you talking about 5.50 x >15 >tires? How would you feel about 5.60 x 15? We have known for years >that >this was a most common size tire, and that we should have no problem >finding this size, as Volkswagons used the same (or near to the same) >size tire. When they went from bias ply to radial, hence the change >from >5.60 x 15 to 165 R 15, availability shouldn't have dried up. And, if >oriigionality is what you seek, look to a Volkswagon parts place. One >of >our members was looking for bias ply wide white walls for his TD. He >finally found Denman bias ply tires with wide white walls at a >Volkswagon Bug Haus. Blackwalls might also be found there, as well as >a >selection of radial tires, or at least suppliers. >John Seim From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jun 3 10:31:26 1999 From: Bud Krueger To: "Moorhead, Tim" Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 12:33:36 -0700 Subject: Re: tires Moorhead, Tim wrote: > Gosh, I haven't heard Semperit tires mentioned by anyone in a long time. > They were on my TD when I got it back in 1988. You're right, they were made in Ireland (of recycled Blarney). Bud Krueger 52TD From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jun 5 19:51:36 1999 From: Bud Krueger To: MG List , mg-t Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999 21:53:38 -0700 Subject: Kennebunkport trip Hi Listers, Had one of those fantastic New England motoring days today. Clear skies, temperature in the low 80's, no humidity to speak of, and a 52TD that was rarin' to go. Did about 280 miles today, round trip from Plymouth, Mass. to Kennebunkport, ME. Caravaned with a guy named Paul Hinchcliffe and his daughter, Heather. Paul has a very original, low mileage (44K) '51TD. My hopes to go clean in the Safety Fast inspection didn't work out. I fixed all the bugs from last year but, this time, they gave my front suspension the critical eyeball treatment. I'm gonna' be busy for awhile, got a bunch of swivewl pin seals to replace along with a bottom wishbone. Got to meet a fellow lister. Carl French showed up with his gorgeous 67 Mk1 B. And, if I might add, his very attractive fiancee. Not only is his car something to make you drool over, he even had a great picnic basket on the luggage rack. Speaking of romantic people, would you believe his license plate, 2MY LOVE? Happy to say that the trip was uneventfull. Didn't have to get anywhere near the spares, oil, water, etc. And, when I got home, UPS had been here with the clutch m/c that I need for the '77 brake installation project. Thanks to Ed Kaler of JustBrits for the great service. Happy motoring, Bud Krueger 52TD 77MGB From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jun 6 13:44:08 1999 From: LFBUSH@aol.com To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 6 Jun 1999 15:41:06 EDT Subject: TD wheels Hi All I'm new to this list having just ventured into the world of computers. I have a 1951 TD that I've had for over 30 years now. My problem is simple and I was hoping someone could help me. I need at least two (prefer four) replacement wheels for my car. The ones on it are all bend out of shape and I would love to be able to drive the car at more than 25 MPH without losing the fillings in my teeth. There is a shop up here (I live in Victoria) that will straighten them, but they want more to do it than I feel wheels are worth. Does anyone have a few extra pressed steel wheels I could buy? Thanks Lorne Bush From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jun 7 06:54:03 1999 From: Bud Krueger To: MG List , mg-t Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 08:56:20 -0700 Subject: MityVac for less Hi listers, FYI, I discovered by accident that AutoZone sells a 'generic' vacuum tool for $25.95 that, when you open up the package, is actually the MityVac system. Moss sells the MityVac (386-215) for $39.95. Bud Krueger 52TD 77MGB From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jun 7 07:33:22 1999 From: David C Littlefield To: bkrueger@ici.net Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 08:24:00 -0500 Subject: Re: MityVac for less On Mon, 07 Jun 1999 08:56:20 -0700 Bud Krueger writes: >Hi listers, > > FYI, I discovered by accident that AutoZone sells a 'generic' >vacuum tool >for $25.95 that, when you open up the package, is actually the MityVac >system. >Moss sells the MityVac (386-215) for $39.95. While we are on the subject-- Autozone will actually lend you a MityVac and other tools for free. You just have to give them a credit card that they will charge and then credit on the return of the item. I recently "borrowed" a cooling system pressure tester to find a leaking hose on the Jag (LBC content achieved!). David Littlefield Houston, TX '62 MGA MkII '51 MGTD '88 Jaguar XJ-S From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jun 8 14:26:56 1999 From: Scott Allen To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 18:06:01 PDT Subject: TD Door Hinges All, I have to replace one of the hinges on my driver's side door, but need to know what's behind them, or rather, what's holding the bolts that go into the body tub. Wood? A metal plate? Any help appreciated. Best, Scott Allen From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jun 8 15:44:15 1999 From: Bob Howard To: s4usea@hotmail.com Date: Tue, 08 Jun 1999 17:41:59 EDT Subject: Re: TD Door Hinges Scott, Check the Moss catalogue, TD Body Panels page, #51, 450-770 for an idea of the bracket's appearance. Bob On Thu, 03 Jun 1999 18:06:01 PDT Scott Allen writes: > > >All, > >I have to replace one of the hinges on my driver's side door, >but need to know what's behind them, or rather, what's holding the >bolts that go into the body tub. Wood? A metal plate? > >Any help appreciated. > >Best, > >Scott Allen Download your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagh. From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jun 8 18:13:53 1999 From: "Lawrie Alexander" To: "Scott Allen" , Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 17:06:21 -0700 Subject: Re: TD Door Hinges The bolts go through the wood, then there is a flat washer and a lock washer and a nut. You have to remove the trim panels to access the nuts. On one of the rear hinge halves there is a third screw-head and that one is a wood screw that just goes into the wood. Lawrie British Sportscar center -----Original Message----- From: Scott Allen To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, June 08, 1999 1:25 PM Subject: TD Door Hinges > > >All, > >I have to replace one of the hinges on my driver's side door, >but need to know what's behind them, or rather, what's holding the >bolts that go into the body tub. Wood? A metal plate? > >Any help appreciated. > >Best, > >Scott Allen > From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jun 8 20:00:39 1999 From: Scott Allen To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 08 Jun 1999 18:58:35 PDT Subject: Chrome Sctatch fix? All, Thanks to everyone who gave me the helpful suggestions on what to expect when I replace my TD's door hinge. Now to my next question. I had my radiator shell re-chromed, but unfortunately I put a scratch in it during the re-install. Anybody out there know a way to remove and/or hide scratches in chromed metal? Any help appreciated... Best, Scott Allen From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jun 8 20:09:01 1999 From: Lewis Palmer To: Scott Allen , mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 19:07:06 -0700 Subject: RE: Chrome Sctatch fix? I'd check with your plater. They may have a localized plating process where they could replate the scratched area. I know I do this with the tin/zinc plater I have. It comes with a small brush with an anode embedded in the brush so I can touch up parts or cover parts that won't fit into my plating jar. I doubt that any hide or cover-up will ever be really satisfactory. Regards, Lew Palmer -----Original Message----- From: Scott Allen [mailto:s4usea@hotmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 1999 8:59 PM To: mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: Chrome Sctatch fix? All, Thanks to everyone who gave me the helpful suggestions on what to expect when I replace my TD's door hinge. Now to my next question. I had my radiator shell re-chromed, but unfortunately I put a scratch in it during the re-install. Anybody out there know a way to remove and/or hide scratches in chromed metal? Any help appreciated... Best, Scott Allen From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jun 9 14:34:21 1999 From: Andrew Moyce To: Scott Allen , mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 16:30:38 -0400 Subject: Re: TD Door Hinges You'll find the body sheet metal worked into the mortised hinge recess in the wood door frame. On the other side of the frame post there is just a washer and nut. I bought some 18 gauge steel, one and a quarter inch wide strips from the local hardware store, and cut them to about 18 inches long. I drilled appropriate holes to match the hinges, and used new 1/4 by 2 1/2 in. flat screws. I installed them along the back side of the wood member to reinforce the opening, making a sandwich of the post, with the hinge on one side, the steel on the other. I put a similar second piece inside the door, against the rear post. I had to notch the steel a little bit to accommodate the metal tub reinforcement pieces. I welded the nuts to the new steel plate, which probably just made alignment more difficult than it needed to be. The end result is a good solid door attachment. Andy 52 TD ------------------ Reply Separator -------------------- Originally From: Scott Allen Subject: TD Door Hinges Date: 06/03/1999 06:06pm All, I have to replace one of the hinges on my driver's side door, but need to know what's behind them, or rather, what's holding the bolts that go into the body tub. Wood? A metal plate? Any help appreciated. Best, Scott Allen From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jun 9 19:51:03 1999 From: "Bob and Carolyn Grunau" To: "T-ABCs_Forever" Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 21:31:07 -0400 Subject: XPAG crankshaft drawing Hi, does anybody on the lists have a drawing for the XPAG/XPEG crankshaft? I would like to have a copy with the possibility of making several crankshafts. I do have an MG Co. drawing of the early fifties for lightening the TD flywheel by 4 1/2 lbs. regards, Bob From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jun 9 22:01:15 1999 From: don To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 21:04:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Truck avail. to&from SF-Boston Hello Listers: Apologies if this is received in duplicate. My friend, Dan Grinnell, who used to have a British car repair shop in Santa Rosa, CA is driving a large truck with trailer from the SF Bay Area to the Boston area and back and has room for a car, car stuff, motorcycles, etc. He is leaving June 16 and returning June 26. He can be reached at 707-568-7039. Don Scott The above address is for list purposes only. Please send private e-mail to: scottdon@napanet.net RetroMobilia w/ original advertising artwork featuring: Riley 1.5, '62 Buick, '91 Miata Special Edition, & MG TF, & 215 V8 Check it out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/2508/ From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jun 12 10:57:36 1999 From: Steven Tritle To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 12:56:59 -0400 Subject: TD rear shocks Having replaced the Armstrong front shocks on my TD I want to check the fluid level on the rear "dampers". Is there a way to remove the large cap from the damper without taking the unit off the car? I would then drill a hole and insert a small bolt for easier checking in the future. But for now how do I remove the cap? Steve Tritle 52 TD From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jun 12 11:27:55 1999 From: John Seim To: stritle@epix.net Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 10:27:57 -0700 Subject: Re: TD rear shocks A big pair of Channel Locks? Seriously, it sounds like you have Girling shocks on the rear. Armstrong shocks have a small hex head plug on the top, which makes for easy removal for topping up. To make fluid replentishment easy, get a syringe and a flexible plastic hose that fits over the end of the syringe. Allows you to fill, but not from above the unit. This also works great for filling the master cylinder (tube not needed). John Seim From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jun 12 21:16:42 1999 From: "M.Lieberman" To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 23:16:20 -0400 Subject: Hood Latches Putting my TD hood back together, but forgot how the latch mechanisms are installed. I think the rounded part of the spring should point forward and should be opposite the raised part of the channel. Is that correct? M.Lieberman From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jun 15 13:49:34 1999 From: Steven Tritle To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 15:48:30 -0400 Subject: Hub puller for TD I'm looking to add to my tool "storehouse" for the TD. Do I need any special hub puller for the front drums or can I get one from Harbor Freight or Sears? Steve 52 TD From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jun 15 17:09:01 1999 From: Lewis Palmer To: stritle@epix.net, mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 16:06:26 -0700 Subject: RE: Hub puller for TD Originally the factory had a special puller for the hubs which clamped around the hub and pressed on the axle shaft to remove the hub. I find that in most circumstances one can make do with a slide hammer that bolts on under one of the hub nuts. Under no circumstandes beat the hub off with a hammer. It is far too easy to crack the casting. Regards, Lew Palmer -----Original Message----- From: Steven Tritle [mailto:stritle@epix.net] Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 1999 2:49 PM To: mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: Hub puller for TD I'm looking to add to my tool "storehouse" for the TD. Do I need any special hub puller for the front drums or can I get one from Harbor Freight or Sears? Steve 52 TD From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jun 15 18:21:52 1999 From: Dick Dell To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 20:17:22 -0400 Subject: Re: Hub puller for TD Steve, et al, I just went through this when I did my TF brakes. I had a friend helping who is also a mechanic. He got me a universal hub puller from Old Forge Tools, I believe the stock number is 2519. This is one beautiful instrument. 1" diameter hardened screw shaft, all other parts of VERY heavy aluminum, a wheel and three arms that allow for pulling any hub I can imagine and other uses. It made pulling those front drums like pulling a hot knife through butter. Cost was $119 (gasp, choke) but it should last a lifetime and then some. We bought it through the tool supplier that comes around regularly, I don't know where you'd get one off the shelf. I'll find out if anyone s interested. Dick Dell Raleigh NC P.S. Thanks to those who gave me the tips on my binding rear brake drums. In fact someone had switched over to a later style retainer spring. I have replaced with original. Problem fixed. From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jun 21 00:45:29 1999 From: John Seim To: list@mg-tabc.org, T-ABCs_Forever@publi-consult.com Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 23:37:31 -0700 Subject: Moss Thermostat & Housing on sale Hello to everyone. I thought that I should let you all know that Moss has remanufactured the thermostat & housing for the TC-TD. Part number is 434-168. Their regular price is $82.45. The unit is on sale through July 2, 1999, for $64.95 This one is correct. It is made of cast iron, the screw thread in the holes for the thermostat elbow are correct (2BA), it fits perfectly onto the water outlet elbow. The ridge on the housing still requires that you start the nuts with the housing not seated onto the water outlet elbow. They even included a ridge at the top of the housing, for better hose clamp sealing purposes. I don't think that this was in the origional design; so we do have one improvement. I do not know what the thermostat temperature operates at, so I must assume that they selected a compatable temperature. New item, master cylinder rebuild kits. Currently, both Abingdon Spares and Moss Motors are getting their rubber kits from BROVEX. Moss Motors only gets the rubber parts, and the kit you get comes in a plastic zip lock pouch. Abingdon Spares sells you a kit, in a box, complete with the concave (wavy) washer. Also, their price is lower. So, you can get more for less. John Seim TC 6590 From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jun 21 08:59:02 1999 From: John Seim To: list@mg-tabc.org Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 07:57:57 -0700 Subject: Re: Mailing List: Re: Moss Thermostat & Housing on sale Mr Eric A Worpe wrote: > > John, Thanks for the news about the thermostat housing being remanufactured. > Does the new Moss thermostat have the correct "by-pass" cut off skirt or > does it use a currently available thermostat which would not be able to close > off the by-pass at running temperature and could result in a reduced water > flow rate through the radiator. > Eric Worpe. > TC 0367 > > Forgive me for not completely describing this item. The thermostat is of the bellows type. It will close off the by-pass side as the thermostat opens. This item is as close to a direct copy of the origional that I have seen. John Seim From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jun 21 09:09:03 1999 From: JustBrits@aol.com To: kingseim@earthlink.net, list@mg-tabc.org Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 11:04:19 EDT Subject: Re: Mailing List: Re: Moss Thermostat & Housing on sale In a message dated 6/21/99 9:57:41 AM Central Daylight Time, kingseim@earthlink.net writes: << This item is as close to a direct copy of the origional that I have seen. >> Agreed. Cheers......... Ed From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jun 24 17:04:18 1999 From: "Ernie Betts" To: , Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 11:59:42 -0400 Subject: Re: YT You might check with Neil Cairns from the UK. Very active in the Magnette & Y-Type groups. Last address I can find is : neil.cairns@virgin.net. -----Original Message----- From: Kma4444@aol.com To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 11:45 AM Subject: YT >I have a customer's YT here in the shop and I need a resource for information >on details about the car . It is an extremely nice car , solid no rust , >great wood , runs and drives good . I am about to go through this little >jewel , it has been painted some mercedes goldish color , I will repaint it >BRG . I need to know stuff like beading color , trim colors , etc.... >Is there a good place to go to find out any of this stuff. >Thanks; >Kevin Allen >A&S Chassisworks From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jun 24 17:04:39 1999 From: "Ernie Betts" To: , "Dick Dell" Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 19:03:04 -0400 Subject: Re: Hub puller for TD Last time I needed one was only after the car had sat for 15 years so I rented one for the hour it took. The previous 20 years I owned the car I never need a puller to get the drums off. -----Original Message----- From: Dick Dell To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, June 15, 1999 8:25 PM Subject: Re: Hub puller for TD >Steve, et al, > >I just went through this when I did my TF brakes. I had a friend helping >who is also a mechanic. He got me a universal hub puller from Old Forge >Tools, I believe the stock number is 2519. > >This is one beautiful instrument. 1" diameter hardened screw shaft, all >other parts of VERY heavy aluminum, a wheel and three arms that allow for >pulling any hub I can imagine and other uses. It made pulling those front >drums like pulling a hot knife through butter. > >Cost was $119 (gasp, choke) but it should last a lifetime and then some. We >bought it through the tool supplier that comes around regularly, I don't >know where you'd get one off the shelf. I'll find out if anyone s interested. > >Dick Dell >Raleigh NC > >P.S. Thanks to those who gave me the tips on my binding rear brake drums. >In fact someone had switched over to a later style retainer spring. I have >replaced with original. Problem fixed. > From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jun 26 00:41:21 1999 From: Bob Peck To: MG e-mail list Date: Fri, 25 Jun 1999 23:41:13 -0700 Subject: overheating TF Just installed my rebuilt XPAG engine and am having problems keeping it cool. Engine rebuild included cylinder resleeving, new bearings, new 3/4 race camshaft, new valves including valve guides and hardened seats. Above work was done by a local machine shop and I assembled the major parts and installed the engine. Symptoms: Engine starts and runs fine for first five miles then temperature continues to increase until coolant boils (gauge reads 185 C but doubt its accuracy as coolant should be good to about 265F. It appears to me that the engine is putting out more heat than the cooling system can absorb. The water pump appeared normal on installation. The radiator was tested and cleaned by a local radiator shop with no discrepancies noted. Thermostat was tested and opened normally. I then cut out the center part of the thermostat and reinstalled just the ring. This helped by slowing the rate of temperature rise but end result was still the same. Any ideas on what could be causing this? Could it be from all the new parts, the camshaft etc.? I am just driving it short distances until this gets resolved. Total miles on the rebuild now is about 65. Incidentally air temperatures have been in the 90's the last couple weeks. Bob Peck From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jun 26 06:38:55 1999 From: don To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 26 Jun 1999 05:45:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: overheating TF This may be old information to you, but are you running 2/3 to 3/4 water as coolant? Too much antifreeze impairs cooling. I found this out the hard way years ago. Use about 1/3 antifreeze and use Redline in your cooling system. You will gain maybe 10 or 15 degrees reduction in temperature. Also, you can take your car to a smog shop and they can put the sniffer in the coolant with the car running and you can see if you've got a cracked head or block or bad head gasket. Exhaust gasses in the coolant will cause terrible overheating. Don Scott At 11:41 PM 6/25/99 -0700, you wrote: >Just installed my rebuilt XPAG engine and am having problems keeping it >cool. Engine rebuild included cylinder resleeving, new bearings, new >3/4 race camshaft, new valves including valve guides and hardened >seats. Above work was done by a local machine shop and I assembled the >major parts and installed the engine. > >Symptoms: Engine starts and runs fine for first five miles then >temperature continues to increase until coolant boils (gauge reads 185 C >but doubt its accuracy as coolant should be good to about 265F. It >appears to me that the engine is putting out more heat than the cooling >system can absorb. > >The water pump appeared normal on installation. > >The radiator was tested and cleaned by a local radiator shop with no >discrepancies noted. > >Thermostat was tested and opened normally. I then cut out the center >part of the thermostat and reinstalled just the ring. This helped by >slowing the rate of temperature rise but end result was still the same. > >Any ideas on what could be causing this? Could it be from all the new >parts, the camshaft etc.? I am just driving it short distances until >this gets resolved. Total miles on the rebuild now is about 65. > >Incidentally air temperatures have been in the 90's the last couple >weeks. > >Bob Peck > > > The above address is for list purposes only. Please send private e-mail to: scottdon@napanet.net RetroMobilia w/ original advertising artwork featuring: Riley 1.5, '62 Buick, '91 Miata Special Edition, & MG TF, & 215 V8 Check it out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/2508/ From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jun 26 09:10:44 1999 From: "Lawrie Alexander" To: "Bob Peck" , "MG e-mail list" Date: Sat, 26 Jun 1999 08:08:05 -0700 Subject: Re: overheating TF Bob........ Did you gap the rings? If the end gaps are too small, the rings will bind when they heat up. What were the bearing clearances when you Plasti-gaged them? (I assume you did?) Did you have the block boiled out and properly de-scaled (shot-peening is the favored method)? Did you make sure the transfer hole behind the rear core plug in the side water gallery was clear? Did you - as good XPAG engine builders recommend - duplicate that hole behind the front core plug in the side gallery? Are you positive the cam timing is correct? Where is the ignition timing set? Were the carbs rebuilt and are you sure your needles are suited to the 3/4 cam? Lotsa questions because there are lotsa possibilities! Lawrie British Sportscar Center -----Original Message----- From: Bob Peck To: MG e-mail list Date: Friday, June 25, 1999 11:41 PM Subject: overheating TF >Just installed my rebuilt XPAG engine and am having problems keeping it >cool. Engine rebuild included cylinder resleeving, new bearings, new >3/4 race camshaft, new valves including valve guides and hardened >seats. Above work was done by a local machine shop and I assembled the >major parts and installed the engine. > >Symptoms: Engine starts and runs fine for first five miles then >temperature continues to increase until coolant boils (gauge reads 185 C >but doubt its accuracy as coolant should be good to about 265F. It >appears to me that the engine is putting out more heat than the cooling >system can absorb. > >The water pump appeared normal on installation. > >The radiator was tested and cleaned by a local radiator shop with no >discrepancies noted. > >Thermostat was tested and opened normally. I then cut out the center >part of the thermostat and reinstalled just the ring. This helped by >slowing the rate of temperature rise but end result was still the same. > >Any ideas on what could be causing this? Could it be from all the new >parts, the camshaft etc.? I am just driving it short distances until >this gets resolved. Total miles on the rebuild now is about 65. > >Incidentally air temperatures have been in the 90's the last couple >weeks. > >Bob Peck > From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jun 26 10:50:02 1999 From: John Seim To: Bob Peck Date: Sat, 26 Jun 1999 09:52:21 -0700 Subject: Re: overheating TF Two thoughts. What is the end play on the distributor shaft? Should be no more than .015". If you can grab the action shaft of the distributor, and move it up and down more than .015", then the dist. timing is changing as you rev the engine. Remove the dist., remove the gear from the shaft, and install a phenolic washer, reducing shaft end play to .006" -.015". Second thought, retorque the head, when hot. From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jun 26 15:28:01 1999 From: BJCJ1@aol.com To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 26 Jun 1999 17:27:29 EDT Subject: TF Dash I am installing the rubber (Moss Part 280-250) which is for the Cowl to Hood. But when I took the rubber off to do the restoration, I forgot if the rubber bead goes over the dash and then nail the flat spot to the Top Rail and Front side Rails. Or if the rubber bead is placed on the Rails and butted up to the dash top. Thanks Bob Freehold, NJ From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jun 26 15:39:13 1999 From: Lewis Palmer To: "'BJCJ1@aol.com'" , mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 26 Jun 1999 14:38:54 -0700 Subject: RE: TF Dash The rounded section of the rubber overlaps the scuttle (cowl) with the flat section fastened to the support timbers. In other words when the bonnet is in place, the flat sction is covered by the rear edge of the bonnet, and the rounded section overlaps the body. The rear edge (rounded section) is the only part that shows - and it DOES show. Regards, Lew Palmer -----Original Message----- From: BJCJ1@aol.com [mailto:BJCJ1@aol.com] Sent: Saturday, June 26, 1999 4:27 PM To: mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: TF Dash I am installing the rubber (Moss Part 280-250) which is for the Cowl to Hood. But when I took the rubber off to do the restoration, I forgot if the rubber bead goes over the dash and then nail the flat spot to the Top Rail and Front side Rails. Or if the rubber bead is placed on the Rails and butted up to the dash top. Thanks Bob Freehold, NJ From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jun 26 17:47:25 1999 From: Bob Peck To: don Date: Sat, 26 Jun 1999 16:47:22 -0700 Subject: Re: overheating TF Thanks to every one that responded to my e-mail on overheating. It now appears that I have a leak from the #3 cylinder that is causing my problem. I am going to pull the head again and if all looks ok reinstall with new studs and new head gaskets. I am using two as previous owner apparrently milled the head to increase compression to about 9.6 to 1. Bob Peck don wrote: > This may be old information to you, but are you running 2/3 to 3/4 water as > coolant? Too much antifreeze impairs cooling. I found this out the hard way > years ago. Use about 1/3 antifreeze and use Redline in your cooling system. > You will gain maybe 10 or 15 degrees reduction in temperature. > > Also, you can take your car to a smog shop and they can put the sniffer in > the coolant with the car running and you can see if you've got a cracked > head or block or bad head gasket. Exhaust gasses in the coolant will cause > terrible overheating. > > Don Scott > > At 11:41 PM 6/25/99 -0700, you wrote: > >Just installed my rebuilt XPAG engine and am having problems keeping it > >cool. Engine rebuild included cylinder resleeving, new bearings, new > >3/4 race camshaft, new valves including valve guides and hardened > >seats. Above work was done by a local machine shop and I assembled the > >major parts and installed the engine. > > > >Symptoms: Engine starts and runs fine for first five miles then > >temperature continues to increase until coolant boils (gauge reads 185 C > >but doubt its accuracy as coolant should be good to about 265F. It > >appears to me that the engine is putting out more heat than the cooling > >system can absorb. > > > >The water pump appeared normal on installation. > > > >The radiator was tested and cleaned by a local radiator shop with no > >discrepancies noted. > > > >Thermostat was tested and opened normally. I then cut out the center > >part of the thermostat and reinstalled just the ring. This helped by > >slowing the rate of temperature rise but end result was still the same. > > > >Any ideas on what could be causing this? Could it be from all the new > >parts, the camshaft etc.? I am just driving it short distances until > >this gets resolved. Total miles on the rebuild now is about 65. > > > >Incidentally air temperatures have been in the 90's the last couple > >weeks. > > > >Bob Peck > > > > > > > > The above address is for list purposes only. Please send private e-mail to: > scottdon@napanet.net > > RetroMobilia w/ original advertising artwork featuring: > Riley 1.5, '62 Buick, '91 Miata Special Edition, & MG TF, & 215 V8 > Check it out: > http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/2508/ From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jun 27 07:52:48 1999 From: Dick Dell To: Bob Peck , mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 09:49:08 -0400 Subject: Re: overheating TF At 04:47 PM 6/26/99 -0700, you wrote: > I am using two as previous owner apparrently milled the head to >increase compression to about 9.6 to 1. > Bob, Just a quick note. While I have never used two gaskets myself I have heard that it is a practice to be avoided. Back in my hotrod days when we used to fool around with engines quite a bit I was tempted to use two gaskets to bring down the compression on an engine I'd bought. The engine rebuilder told me that was a sure way to blow head gaskets. Could this have been your problem from the beginning? My solution at the time was to use a single, extra thick gasket that was available from the speed shop. Not sure if such a thing is available for a T-series. Could you live with the 9.6 : 1 ? You're going to run premium gas anyway, I'm sure. Dick Dell From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jun 27 09:28:24 1999 From: BJCJ1@aol.com To: lpalmer@vanstar.com, mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 11:26:50 EDT Subject: Re: TF Dash Lew, thanks for the tip. I had a feeling that the rounded bead went over the cowl. But wasn't 100% sure. I just hated the thought of putting in all those nails, and then finding out that I did it backwards. Not as easy pulling out all those nails as it is to just unbolt the part and try another direction. Again, Thanks Bob From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jun 27 09:41:57 1999 From: BJCJ1@aol.com To: bobpeck@mother.com, brgmgb@napanet.net Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 11:40:30 EDT Subject: Re: overheating TF Bob, I just caught the tail end of the discussion on your engine. But the last one I noticed that their was some comments on using two head gaskets. I just had my engine milled for a total overhaul, and I found that I also needed two gaskets because we couldn't zero out the rocker assembly because it was milled. I was going to use two gaskets but my MG mechanic talked me out of it. Instead, we used shims under the rocker assembly. I just needed one set of shims. Now I am glad he talked me out ot it. My engine runs great, and I don't worry about blowing a head gasket either. Have you thought about putting shims under the rocker assembly insteadd of two head gaskets? Bob Freehold, NJ From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jun 27 10:05:39 1999 From: "Lawrie Alexander" To: "Bob Peck" , , Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 08:56:58 -0700 Subject: Re: overheating TF Dick, Thicker-than-stock gaskets for XPAG/XPEG engines are not readily available, unfortunately. Even using Premium gas, it's not wise to go over 9 to 1 compression (about 160 lbs. cranking pressure, typically) with a cast-iron head and the relatively primitive combustion chamber shapes found in Ts, As, Bs and Midgets. The almost inevitable pinging will eventually destroy the rod bearings or even crack a piston. I've used two head gaskets in many engines, without problems. Of course, it's sensible to use new head studs as well, to coat both gaskets with Copper-Kote and to be very sure to re-torque as soon as the engine reaches operating temperature, then again after about a dozen starts and stops of the engine. I also make it a habit to torque any head down when I first install it, then re-torque it just before I start the engine. It's surprising how much even a single head gasket will compress under initial torque and the second go-round always gets some additional movement on the head nuts. Better to spend a few moments re-torquing than to blow the gasket on start-up! Lawrie British Sportscar Center -----Original Message----- From: Dick Dell To: Bob Peck ; mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Sunday, June 27, 1999 6:53 AM Subject: Re: overheating TF >At 04:47 PM 6/26/99 -0700, you wrote: > >> I am using two as previous owner apparrently milled the head to >>increase compression to about 9.6 to 1. >> > >Bob, > >Just a quick note. While I have never used two gaskets myself I have heard >that it is a practice to be avoided. Back in my hotrod days when we used to >fool around with engines quite a bit I was tempted to use two gaskets to >bring down the compression on an engine I'd bought. The engine rebuilder >told me that was a sure way to blow head gaskets. Could this have been >your problem from the beginning? > >My solution at the time was to use a single, extra thick gasket that was >available from the speed shop. Not sure if such a thing is available for a >T-series. > >Could you live with the 9.6 : 1 ? You're going to run premium gas anyway, >I'm sure. > >Dick Dell > From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jun 27 10:40:04 1999 From: rjs To: Lawrie Alexander Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 12:41:27 -0400 Subject: Re: overheating TF Hi! It has been many years since I used to drive a TC. I was under the impression that my TC had 13:1 compression. Am I dreaming, has senility set in? The car was modified for racing, used a Laystall Aluminum Head, and when racing ran on "fuel". I was also told the car crossed the finish line doing 105 mph. Should I research my story better, or is all this possible. I never raced it but it sure was fast! Too fast, while going through a tight S bend on the way home, I gather the oil sloshed the wrong way, the pump starved, and the rod knocked. A divorce forced the sale and I never got to see it repaired. Ric. Lawrie Alexander wrote: > Dick, > > Thicker-than-stock gaskets for XPAG/XPEG engines are not readily available, > unfortunately. > > Even using Premium gas, it's not wise to go over 9 to 1 compression (about > 160 lbs. cranking pressure, typically) with a cast-iron head and the > relatively primitive combustion chamber shapes found in Ts, As, Bs and > Midgets. The almost inevitable pinging will eventually destroy the rod > bearings or even crack a piston. > > I've used two head gaskets in many engines, without problems. Of course, > it's sensible to use new head studs as well, to coat both gaskets with > Copper-Kote and to be very sure to re-torque as soon as the engine reaches > operating temperature, then again after about a dozen starts and stops of > the engine. > > I also make it a habit to torque any head down when I first install it, then > re-torque it just before I start the engine. It's surprising how much even a > single head gasket will compress under initial torque and the second > go-round always gets some additional movement on the head nuts. Better to > spend a few moments re-torquing than to blow the gasket on start-up! > > Lawrie > British Sportscar Center > -----Original Message----- > From: Dick Dell > To: Bob Peck ; mg-t@autox.team.net > Date: Sunday, June 27, 1999 6:53 AM > Subject: Re: overheating TF > > >At 04:47 PM 6/26/99 -0700, you wrote: > > > >> I am using two as previous owner apparrently milled the head to > >>increase compression to about 9.6 to 1. > >> > > > >Bob, > > > >Just a quick note. While I have never used two gaskets myself I have heard > >that it is a practice to be avoided. Back in my hotrod days when we used to > >fool around with engines quite a bit I was tempted to use two gaskets to > >bring down the compression on an engine I'd bought. The engine rebuilder > >told me that was a sure way to blow head gaskets. Could this have been > >your problem from the beginning? > > > >My solution at the time was to use a single, extra thick gasket that was > >available from the speed shop. Not sure if such a thing is available for a > >T-series. > > > >Could you live with the 9.6 : 1 ? You're going to run premium gas anyway, > >I'm sure. > > > >Dick Dell > > From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jun 27 11:11:45 1999 From: "Lawrie Alexander" To: "rjs" Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 10:09:03 -0700 Subject: Re: overheating TF Very probably true, Ric! An over-bored XPAG fitted with what were known as "High-top" pistons (they had a big extra piece above the normally flat crown, which practically filled the combustion chamber) and the Laystall head would have given at least 12.5 to 1 compression. As you said, it would have had to run on "fuel", as opposed to the 92 octane gas available at the pump today. It would still work today for Vintage racing, using Racing fuel (but, last time I bought that, about 18 years ago, it was $4.00 a gallon........dread to think what it is today!) Lawrie -----Original Message----- From: rjs To: Lawrie Alexander Cc: Bob Peck ; mg-t@autox.team.net ; Dick Dell Date: Sunday, June 27, 1999 9:39 AM Subject: Re: overheating TF >Hi! It has been many years since I used to drive a TC. I was under the >impression that my TC had 13:1 compression. Am I dreaming, has senility set in? >The car was modified for racing, used a Laystall Aluminum Head, and when racing >ran on "fuel". I was also told the car crossed the finish line doing 105 mph. >Should I research my story better, or is all this possible. I never raced it but >it sure was fast! Too fast, while going through a tight S bend on the way home, >I gather the oil sloshed the wrong way, the pump starved, and the rod knocked. A >divorce forced the sale and I never got to see it repaired. Ric. > >Lawrie Alexander wrote: > >> Dick, >> >> Thicker-than-stock gaskets for XPAG/XPEG engines are not readily available, >> unfortunately. >> >> Even using Premium gas, it's not wise to go over 9 to 1 compression (about >> 160 lbs. cranking pressure, typically) with a cast-iron head and the >> relatively primitive combustion chamber shapes found in Ts, As, Bs and >> Midgets. The almost inevitable pinging will eventually destroy the rod >> bearings or even crack a piston. >> >> I've used two head gaskets in many engines, without problems. Of course, >> it's sensible to use new head studs as well, to coat both gaskets with >> Copper-Kote and to be very sure to re-torque as soon as the engine reaches >> operating temperature, then again after about a dozen starts and stops of >> the engine. >> >> I also make it a habit to torque any head down when I first install it, then >> re-torque it just before I start the engine. It's surprising how much even a >> single head gasket will compress under initial torque and the second >> go-round always gets some additional movement on the head nuts. Better to >> spend a few moments re-torquing than to blow the gasket on start-up! >> >> Lawrie >> British Sportscar Center >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Dick Dell >> To: Bob Peck ; mg-t@autox.team.net >> Date: Sunday, June 27, 1999 6:53 AM >> Subject: Re: overheating TF >> >> >At 04:47 PM 6/26/99 -0700, you wrote: >> > >> >> I am using two as previous owner apparrently milled the head to >> >>increase compression to about 9.6 to 1. >> >> >> > >> >Bob, >> > >> >Just a quick note. While I have never used two gaskets myself I have heard >> >that it is a practice to be avoided. Back in my hotrod days when we used to >> >fool around with engines quite a bit I was tempted to use two gaskets to >> >bring down the compression on an engine I'd bought. The engine rebuilder >> >told me that was a sure way to blow head gaskets. Could this have been >> >your problem from the beginning? >> > >> >My solution at the time was to use a single, extra thick gasket that was >> >available from the speed shop. Not sure if such a thing is available for a >> >T-series. >> > >> >Could you live with the 9.6 : 1 ? You're going to run premium gas anyway, >> >I'm sure. >> > >> >Dick Dell >> > > From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jun 27 14:05:05 1999 From: Gerald A Felper To: Bob Peck Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 13:02:40 -0700 Subject: Re: overheating TF Bob Check your ign timing. Also the end play of the dist., which causes inaccurate spark avance. Try changing the fan to an MG-B. Jerry From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jun 27 16:04:43 1999 From: fogbro1@impop.bellatlantic.net To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 18:02:57 -0400 Subject: TC spotted Anyone on this list belong to the TC I spotted in East Aurora, NY this weekend? Ed Woods From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jun 27 17:40:19 1999 From: Chip Old To: mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 19:40:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: overheating TF On Sun, 27 Jun 1999, BJCJ1@aol.com wrote to bobpeck@mother.com and...: > I just had my engine milled for a total overhaul, and I found that I also > needed two gaskets because we couldn't zero out the rocker assembly because > it was milled. I was going to use two gaskets but my MG mechanic talked me > out of it. Instead, we used shims under the rocker assembly. I just needed > one set of shims. Now I am glad he talked me out ot it. My engine runs > great, and I don't worry about blowing a head gasket either. > > Have you thought about putting shims under the rocker assembly insteadd of > two head gaskets? A better solution would have been to shorten the pushrods by the amount milled off the head. Rocker stand shims do give you back the ability to adjust your rocker clearance with a milled head, but they mess up the rocker geometry by changing the angle between the rocker arm and the valve stem. That often causes accelerated valve guide and rocker arm wear. ------------------------------------------------------------------- Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271 Cub Hill, Maryland 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO CT3479E fold@bcpl.net From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jun 27 19:04:20 1999 From: JustBrits@aol.com To: fold@bcpl.net, mg-t@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 21:03:02 EDT Subject: Re: overheating TF In a message dated 6/27/99 6:40:47 PM Central Daylight Time, fold@bcpl.net writes: << A better solution would have been to shorten the pushrods by the amount milled off the head. Rocker stand shims do give you back the ability to adjust your rocker clearance with a milled head, but they mess up the rocker geometry by changing the angle between the rocker arm and the valve stem. That often causes accelerated valve guide and rocker arm wear. >> Yep, I more than agree with Chip here. If the change is any where near, geometricaaly speaking, severe; oops. The only way I can see to 'shim' it is if the difference is in the 3 figure range (and I'm not reallt to sure about that). It would take sitting down with calipers, gauges, etc. to figure out how to maintain the angles, surfaces, etc.. In other words: How to drive a DIY'er ***NUTS***!!! Cheers........ Ed From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jun 27 21:42:15 1999 From: Bob Peck To: BJCJ1@aol.com Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 20:41:56 -0700 Subject: Re: overheating TF Bob- The engine is being rebuilt due to problems with two pistons, most likely due to detonation and too much compression. I am being told that todays premium is not enough octane to handle a 9.6 to 1 compression. I am using shims under the rocker assembly and shortened push rods. By the way how do you zero out the rocker assembly? Bob Peck BJCJ1@aol.com wrote: > Bob, I just caught the tail end of the discussion on your engine. But the > last one I noticed that their was some comments on using two head gaskets. > > I just had my engine milled for a total overhaul, and I found that I also > needed two gaskets because we couldn't zero out the rocker assembly because > it was milled. I was going to use two gaskets but my MG mechanic talked me > out of it. Instead, we used shims under the rocker assembly. I just needed > one set of shims. Now I am glad he talked me out ot it. My engine runs > great, and I don't worry about blowing a head gasket either. > > Have you thought about putting shims under the rocker assembly insteadd of > two head gaskets? > > Bob > Freehold, NJ From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jun 27 21:44:17 1999 From: Bob Peck To: Lawrie Alexander Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 20:44:26 -0700 Subject: Re: overheating TF Lawrie- Sounds like good advice. If I found a crack in the head how would that get fixed or is there an aluminum head available as a replacement. Bob Peck Lawrie Alexander wrote: > Dick, > > Thicker-than-stock gaskets for XPAG/XPEG engines are not readily available, > unfortunately. > > Even using Premium gas, it's not wise to go over 9 to 1 compression (about > 160 lbs. cranking pressure, typically) with a cast-iron head and the > relatively primitive combustion chamber shapes found in Ts, As, Bs and > Midgets. The almost inevitable pinging will eventually destroy the rod > bearings or even crack a piston. > > I've used two head gaskets in many engines, without problems. Of course, > it's sensible to use new head studs as well, to coat both gaskets with > Copper-Kote and to be very sure to re-torque as soon as the engine reaches > operating temperature, then again after about a dozen starts and stops of > the engine. > > I also make it a habit to torque any head down when I first install it, then > re-torque it just before I start the engine. It's surprising how much even a > single head gasket will compress under initial torque and the second > go-round always gets some additional movement on the head nuts. Better to > spend a few moments re-torquing than to blow the gasket on start-up! > > Lawrie > British Sportscar Center > -----Original Message----- > From: Dick Dell > To: Bob Peck ; mg-t@autox.team.net > Date: Sunday, June 27, 1999 6:53 AM > Subject: Re: overheating TF > > >At 04:47 PM 6/26/99 -0700, you wrote: > > > >> I am using two as previous owner apparrently milled the head to > >>increase compression to about 9.6 to 1. > >> > > > >Bob, > > > >Just a quick note. While I have never used two gaskets myself I have heard > >that it is a practice to be avoided. Back in my hotrod days when we used to > >fool around with engines quite a bit I was tempted to use two gaskets to > >bring down the compression on an engine I'd bought. The engine rebuilder > >told me that was a sure way to blow head gaskets. Could this have been > >your problem from the beginning? > > > >My solution at the time was to use a single, extra thick gasket that was > >available from the speed shop. Not sure if such a thing is available for a > >T-series. > > > >Could you live with the 9.6 : 1 ? You're going to run premium gas anyway, > >I'm sure. > > > >Dick Dell > > From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jun 27 21:48:49 1999 From: Bob Peck To: felperg@earthlink.net Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 20:48:58 -0700 Subject: Re: overheating TF Gerald- Timing was originally set at TDC static as per the book. Later I set it to 35 degrees total advance at 3000 rpm. The advanced seemed stable while I was setting it. Bob Peck Gerald A Felper wrote: > Bob > Check your ign timing. Also the end play of the dist., which causes > inaccurate spark avance. Try changing the fan to an MG-B. > > Jerry From mg-t-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jun 28 07:01:37 1999 From: "Bob and Carolyn Grunau" To: , "don" Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 08:32:13 -0400 Subject: Re: overheating TF good point on the3 anti-freeze. also, check timing not retarded. Bob ---------- > From: don > To: mg-t@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: overheating TF > Date: Saturday, June 26, 1999 8:45 AM > > This may be old information to you, but are you running 2/3 to 3/4 water as > coolant? Too much antifreeze impairs cooling. I found this out the hard way > years ago. Use about 1/3 antifreeze and use Redline in your cooling system. > You will gain maybe 10 or 15 degrees reduction in temperature. > > Also, you can take your car to a smog shop and they can put the sniffer in > the coolant with the car running and you can see if you've got a cracked > head or block or bad head gasket. Exhaust gasses in the coolant will cause > terrible overheating. > > Don Scott > > > At 11:41 PM 6/25/99 -0700, you wrote: > >Just installed my rebuilt XPAG engine and am having problems keeping it > >cool. Engine rebuild included cylinder resleeving, new bearings, new > >3/4 race camshaft, new valves including valve guides and hardened > >seats. Above work was done by a local machine shop and I assembled the > >major parts and installed the engine. > > > >Symptoms: Engine starts and runs fine for first five miles then > >temperature continues to increase until coolant boils (gauge reads 185 C > >but doubt its accuracy as coolant should be good to about 265F. It > >appears to me that the engine is putting out more heat than the cooling > >system can absorb. > > > >The water pump appeared normal on installation. > > > >The radiator was tested and cleaned by a local radiator shop with no > >discrepancies noted. > > > >Thermostat was tested and opened normally. I then cut out the center > >part of the thermostat and reinstalled just the ring. This helped by > >slowing the rate of temperature rise but end result was still the same. > > > >Any ideas on what could be causing this? Could it be from all the new > >parts, the camshaft etc.? I am just driving it short distances until > >this gets resolved. Total miles on the rebuild now is about 65. > > > >Incidentally air temperatures have been in the 90's the last couple > >weeks. > > > >Bob Peck > > > > > > > > > The above address is for list purposes only. Please send private e-mail to: > scottdon@napanet.net > > RetroMobilia w/ original advertising artwork featuring: > Riley 1.5, '62 Buick, '91 Miata Special Edition, & MG TF, & 215 V8 > Check it out: > http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/2508/ > > > > > > >