Subject: [Healeys] New clutch query

From: Simon Lachlan via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2021 21:23:32 +0100

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You'll recall the Overdrive saga. Have decided not to commission  a TV
mini-series per someone's advice.

1) The overdrive is in and works very well. I haven't tested the pressure
yet - I will - but it clicks in and out very briskly.

2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to get the old bits off until I borrowed
that magic tool. Used the black nylon(?) tool from AHSpares as so much
handier than the spare original shaft. 

3) Putting the gearbox back in was pretty tedious. It would go in all the
way except for the last 3 or 4 inches. Took it out again and checked the
alignment was 100% which it was. Put it back in, pushed, shoved and cursed.
In the end we wound it on with long threaded bolts. I don't want to put in
another clutch. Ever.

4) Now, finally, the QUESTIONS:-

Initially, getting the car into any gear was very graunchy and really the
car would have been undriveable. Pedal pressure felt the same as before but
nothing was happening except expensive noise. 

Although there was no evidence of a loss of fluid - why would there be? - I
bled the clutch. I have fitted the extension tube so it wasn't tricky. That
did make a difference but not to the way it was previously.

So (1) Is it normal for clutches to be difficult at first? A sort of
"breaking-in" period??

(2) I'll bleed it again but am drawn to getting a longer push rod for the
slave cylinder. Does that make sense? I do have to push the pedal down
pretty far. Comments?

(3) Slightly off topic..digging around in my files, I saw a suggestion to
cut the head off the top bolt that locates the slave cylinder. Then to
Loctite in permanently for use as a dowel peg. ie that bolt is a bit of a
PITA and one bolt would suffice. Wouldn't it?? 

All advice would be very welcome,

Simon

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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>You&#8217;ll recall the Overdrive saga. Have decided =
not to commission&nbsp; a TV mini-series per someone&#8217;s =
advice.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>1) The overdrive is in and =
works very well. I haven&#8217;t tested the pressure yet &#8211; I will =
&#8211; but it clicks in and out very briskly.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to get the old bits =
off until I borrowed that magic tool. Used the black nylon(?) tool from =
AHSpares as so much handier than the spare original shaft. =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>3) Putting the gearbox back in was =
pretty tedious. It would go in all the way except for the last 3 or 4 =
inches. Took it out again and checked the alignment was 100% which it =
was. Put it back in, pushed, shoved and cursed. In the end we wound it =
on with long threaded bolts. I don&#8217;t want to put in another =
clutch. Ever.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>4) Now, finally, the =
QUESTIONS:-<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Initially, getting the =
car into any gear was very graunchy and really the car would have been =
undriveable. Pedal pressure felt the same as before but nothing was =
happening except expensive noise. <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Although there was no evidence of a loss of fluid =
&#8211; why would there be? &#8211; I bled the clutch. I have fitted the =
extension tube so it wasn&#8217;t tricky. That did make a difference but =
not to the way it was previously.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>So =
(1) Is it normal for clutches to be difficult at first? A sort of =
&#8220;breaking-in&#8221; period??<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>(2) I&#8217;ll bleed it again but am drawn to getting =
a longer push rod for the slave cylinder. Does that make sense? I do =
have to push the pedal down pretty far. Comments?<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>(3) Slightly off topic&#8230;&#8230;digging around in =
my files, I saw a suggestion to cut the head off the top bolt that =
locates the slave cylinder. Then to Loctite in permanently for use as a =
dowel peg. ie that bolt is a bit of a PITA and one bolt would suffice. =
Wouldn&#8217;t it?? <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>All advice would =
be very welcome,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Simon<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
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---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2021 01:36:07 +0000 qMmonBNmwDaj21S4v30zaMFMfNQj1xED01kEXvFKWPblXqyN8ZPUBsHUlcsP3YTUczfytut+3KPqIICjQ0D1rh8PZJdohu8HmeCYudti1M/MuxieP0BICRT4

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Hopefully, you have the correct parts! In the early MKI/MKII series=0Aca=
rs there were several different clutch plates as well as a couple of=0Ad=
ifferent bell housings. There is one bell housing that does not fit=0Aon=
e of the clutch pressure plates and rubs (expensive noise you=0Adescribe=
). Since you used your original bell, you should insure that=0Ayou got t=
he correct PP.=0AIt's real important, now-a-days, to check that the part=
s removed=0AIDENTICALLY match the ones that you are now putting on. I do=
n't trust=0Aany newly manufactured items unless the match the original.=
=0AAfter inserting the gearbox, properly aligned, you should only have t=
o=0Aclose up about 1/2" or less bell to block with the proper original=
=0Abolts.=0AOne other thought, if you used the fingered/hung on TO press=
ure plate,=0Ait is possible to damage it if you let the weight of the ge=
arbox lay=0Aon it before it was fully home. If you used the standard spr=
ing unit=0Athat would not be the issue. Hank=0A=0A=09-------------------=
----------------------From: "Simon Lachlan via=0AHealeys" =0ATo: "Healey=
s"=0ACc: =0ASent: Sunday September 19 2021 1:24:33PM=0ASubject: [Healeys=
] New clutch query=0A=0A=09You=E2=80=99ll recall the Overdrive saga. Hav=
e decided not to commission a=0ATV mini-series per someone=E2=80=99s adv=
ice. =0A=0A=091) The overdrive is in and works very well. I haven=E2=80=
=99t tested the=0Apressure yet =E2=80=93 I will =E2=80=93 but it clicks=
 in and out very briskly. =0A=0A=092) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to=
 get the old bits off until I=0Aborrowed that magic tool. Used the black=
 nylon(?) tool from AHSpares=0Aas so much handier than the spare origina=
l shaft. =0A=0A=093) Putting the gearbox back in was pretty tedious. It=
 would go in all=0Athe way except for the last 3 or 4 inches. Took it ou=
t again and=0Achecked the alignment was 100% which it was. Put it back i=
n, pushed,=0Ashoved and cursed. In the end we wound it on with long thre=
aded bolts.=0AI don=E2=80=99t want to put in another clutch. Ever. =0A=
=0A=094) Now, finally, the QUESTIONS:- =0A=0A=09Initially, getting the c=
ar into any gear was very graunchy and really=0Athe car would have been=
 undriveable. Pedal pressure felt the same as=0Abefore but nothing was h=
appening except expensive noise. =0A=0A=09Although there was no evidence=
 of a loss of fluid =E2=80=93 why would there=0Abe? =E2=80=93 I bled the=
 clutch. I have fitted the extension tube so it=0Awasn=E2=80=99t tricky.=
 That did make a difference but not to the way it was=0Apreviously. =0A=
=0A=09So (1) Is it normal for clutches to be difficult at first? A sort=
 of=0A=E2=80=9Cbreaking-in=E2=80=9D period?? =0A=0A=09(2) I=E2=80=99ll b=
leed it again but am drawn to getting a longer push rod=0Afor the slave=
 cylinder. Does that make sense? I do have to push the=0Apedal down pret=
ty far. Comments? =0A=0A=09(3) Slightly off topic=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6diggi=
ng around in my files, I saw a=0Asuggestion to cut the head off the top=
 bolt that locates the slave=0Acylinder. Then to Loctite in permanently=
 for use as a dowel peg. ie=0Athat bolt is a bit of a PITA and one bolt=
 would suffice. Wouldn=E2=80=99t=0Ait?? =0A=0A=09All advice would be ver=
y welcome, =0A=0A=09Simon =0A=0A=09

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<html><body>Hopefully, you have the correct parts! In the early MKI/MKII=
 series cars there were several different clutch plates as well as a cou=
ple of different bell housings. There is one bell housing that does not=
 fit one of the clutch pressure plates and rubs (expensive noise you des=
cribe). Since you used your original bell, you should insure that you go=
t the correct PP.<div><br></div><div>It's real important, now-a-days, to=
 check that the parts removed IDENTICALLY match the ones that you are no=
w putting on. I don't trust any newly manufactured items unless the matc=
h the original.</div><div><br></div><div>After inserting the gearbox, pr=
operly aligned, you should only have to close up about 1/2" or less bell=
 to block with the proper original bolts.</div><div><br></div><div>One o=
ther thought, if you used the fingered/hung on TO pressure plate, it is=
 possible to damage it if you let the weight of the gearbox lay on it be=
fore it was fully home. If you used the standard spring unit that would=
 not be the issue. Hank<br><br><div class=3D"reply-new-signature"></div>=
<p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: "Simon Lachlan via=
 Healeys" <[email-masked]><br>To: "Healeys"<br>Cc: <br>Sent: Sun=
day September 19 2021 1:24:33PM<br>Subject: [Healeys] New clutch query<b=
r><br>=0A<div class=3D"WordSection1">=0A<p class=3D"MsoNormal">You=E2=80=
=99ll recall the Overdrive saga. Have decided=0Anot to commission&nbsp;=
 a TV mini-series per someone=E2=80=99s advice.</p>=0A<p class=3D"MsoNor=
mal">1) The overdrive is in and works very well. I=0Ahaven=E2=80=99t tes=
ted the pressure yet =E2=80=93 I will =E2=80=93 but it clicks in and out=
=0Avery briskly.</p>=0A<p class=3D"MsoNormal">2) The new clutch kit is i=
n. Hard to get the=0Aold bits off until I borrowed that magic tool. Used=
 the black=0Anylon(?) tool from AHSpares as so much handier than the spa=
re=0Aoriginal shaft.</p>=0A<p class=3D"MsoNormal">3) Putting the gearbox=
 back in was pretty=0Atedious. It would go in all the way except for the=
 last 3 or 4=0Ainches. Took it out again and checked the alignment was 1=
00% which=0Ait was. Put it back in, pushed, shoved and cursed. In the en=
d we=0Awound it on with long threaded bolts. I don=E2=80=99t want to put=
 in=0Aanother clutch. Ever.</p>=0A<p class=3D"MsoNormal">4) Now, finally=
, the QUESTIONS:-</p>=0A<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Initially, getting the ca=
r into any gear was=0Avery graunchy and really the car would have been u=
ndriveable. Pedal=0Apressure felt the same as before but nothing was hap=
pening except=0Aexpensive noise.</p>=0A<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Although t=
here was no evidence of a loss of=0Afluid =E2=80=93 why would there be?=
 =E2=80=93 I bled the clutch. I have fitted the=0Aextension tube so it w=
asn=E2=80=99t tricky. That did make a difference but=0Anot to the way it=
 was previously.</p>=0A<p class=3D"MsoNormal">So (1) Is it normal for cl=
utches to be=0Adifficult at first? A sort of =E2=80=9Cbreaking-in=E2=80=
=9D period??</p>=0A<p class=3D"MsoNormal">(2) I=E2=80=99ll bleed it agai=
n but am drawn to=0Agetting a longer push rod for the slave cylinder. Do=
es that make=0Asense? I do have to push the pedal down pretty far. Comme=
nts?</p>=0A<p class=3D"MsoNormal">(3) Slightly off topic=E2=80=A6=E2=80=
=A6digging around in my=0Afiles, I saw a suggestion to cut the head off=
 the top bolt that=0Alocates the slave cylinder. Then to Loctite in perm=
anently for use=0Aas a dowel peg. ie that bolt is a bit of a PITA and on=
e bolt would=0Asuffice. Wouldn=E2=80=99t it??</p>=0A<p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l">All advice would be very welcome,</p>=0A<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Simon<=
/p>=0A<p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p>=0A</div>=0A</[email-masked].=
net></div></body></html>

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[email-masked]

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