Subject: Re: [Healeys] New clutch query

From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2021 17:15:16 -0400

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Simon--

I cut the head off one bolt to make it easier to R&R the secondary
cylinder. I also fashioned a small door in the extension panel to give
access to the bleed nipple from inside rather than only under the car.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 4:23 PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> You=E2=80=99ll recall the Overdrive saga. Have decided not to commission =
 a TV
> mini-series per someone=E2=80=99s advice.
>
> 1) The overdrive is in and works very well. I haven=E2=80=99t tested the =
pressure
> yet =E2=80=93 I will =E2=80=93 but it clicks in and out very briskly.
>
> 2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to get the old bits off until I borrowe=
d
> that magic tool. Used the black nylon(?) tool from AHSpares as so much
> handier than the spare original shaft.
>
> 3) Putting the gearbox back in was pretty tedious. It would go in all the
> way except for the last 3 or 4 inches. Took it out again and checked the
> alignment was 100% which it was. Put it back in, pushed, shoved and curse=
d.
> In the end we wound it on with long threaded bolts. I don=E2=80=99t want =
to put in
> another clutch. Ever.
>
> 4) Now, finally, the QUESTIONS:-
>
> Initially, getting the car into any gear was very graunchy and really the
> car would have been undriveable. Pedal pressure felt the same as before b=
ut
> nothing was happening except expensive noise.
>
> Although there was no evidence of a loss of fluid =E2=80=93 why would the=
re be? =E2=80=93
> I bled the clutch. I have fitted the extension tube so it wasn=E2=80=99t =
tricky.
> That did make a difference but not to the way it was previously.
>
> So (1) Is it normal for clutches to be difficult at first? A sort of
> =E2=80=9Cbreaking-in=E2=80=9D period??
>
> (2) I=E2=80=99ll bleed it again but am drawn to getting a longer push rod=
 for the
> slave cylinder. Does that make sense? I do have to push the pedal down
> pretty far. Comments?
>
> (3) Slightly off topic=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6digging around in my files, I saw=
 a suggestion to
> cut the head off the top bolt that locates the slave cylinder. Then to
> Loctite in permanently for use as a dowel peg. ie that bolt is a bit of a
> PITA and one bolt would suffice. Wouldn=E2=80=99t it??
>
> All advice would be very welcome,
>
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
>

--=20
Best--Michael

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Simon=
--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div=
 class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">I cut the head off one bol=
t to make it easier to R&amp;R the secondary cylinder. I also fashioned a s=
mall door in the=C2=A0extension=C2=A0panel to give access to the bleed nipp=
le from inside rather than only under the car.</div><div class=3D"gmail_def=
ault" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"color:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_q=
uote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 4:23 PM=
 Simon Lachlan via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">he=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quo=
te" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204=
);padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-GB"><div class=3D"gmail-m_9145404130837=
437657WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal">You=E2=80=99ll recall the Overdr=
ive saga. Have decided not to commission=C2=A0 a TV mini-series per someone=
=E2=80=99s advice.<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">1) The overdrive=
 is in and works very well. I haven=E2=80=99t tested the pressure yet =E2=
=80=93 I will =E2=80=93 but it clicks in and out very briskly.<u></u><u></u=
></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to get the ol=
d bits off until I borrowed that magic tool. Used the black nylon(?) tool f=
rom AHSpares as so much handier than the spare original shaft. <u></u><u></=
u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">3) Putting the gearbox back in was pretty tedi=
ous. It would go in all the way except for the last 3 or 4 inches. Took it =
out again and checked the alignment was 100% which it was. Put it back in, =
pushed, shoved and cursed. In the end we wound it on with long threaded bol=
ts. I don=E2=80=99t want to put in another clutch. Ever.<u></u><u></u></p><=
p class=3D"MsoNormal">4) Now, finally, the QUESTIONS:-<u></u><u></u></p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal">Initially, getting the car into any gear was very graun=
chy and really the car would have been undriveable. Pedal pressure felt the=
 same as before but nothing was happening except expensive noise. <u></u><u=
></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Although there was no evidence of a loss of=
 fluid =E2=80=93 why would there be? =E2=80=93 I bled the clutch. I have fi=
tted the extension tube so it wasn=E2=80=99t tricky. That did make a differ=
ence but not to the way it was previously.<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"Mso=
Normal">So (1) Is it normal for clutches to be difficult at first? A sort o=
f =E2=80=9Cbreaking-in=E2=80=9D period??<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal">(2) I=E2=80=99ll bleed it again but am drawn to getting a longer push=
 rod for the slave cylinder. Does that make sense? I do have to push the pe=
dal down pretty far. Comments?<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">(3) =
Slightly off topic=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6digging around in my files, I saw a sug=
gestion to cut the head off the top bolt that locates the slave cylinder. T=
hen to Loctite in permanently for use as a dowel peg. ie that bolt is a bit=
 of a PITA and one bolt would suffice. Wouldn=E2=80=99t it?? <u></u><u></u>=
</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">All advice would be very welcome,<u></u><u></u><=
/p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Simon<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u>=
</u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div></div>__________________________________________=
_____<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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<br>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr"=
 class=3D"gmail_signature"><font color=3D"#3333ff">Best--Michael</font></di=
v>

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From: Harold Manifold via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2021 16:40:19 -0700

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hemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:m=3D"http://schemas.microsoft.com/of=
fice/2004/12/omml" xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta ht=
tp-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><meta name=
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--></style></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3D"#954F72" style=3D=
'word-wrap:break-word'><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Simon=
,</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>The clu=
tch can be difficult to bleed due to the up and down routing of the line. Y=
ou may want to consider a reverse bleed to force out any trapped air. Anoth=
er possibly is the pilot bearing was damaged as a result of the struggles t=
o fit the gear box.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=
=3DMsoNormal>Harold<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p=
><div style=3D'mso-element:para-border-div;border:none;border-top:solid #E1=
E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'border:=
none;padding:0in'><b>From: </b><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Mi=
chael Oritt via Healeys</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Sunday, September 19, 2021 2:15=
 PM<br><b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">simo=
[email-masked]</a><br><b>Cc: </b><a href=3D"mailto:healeys@a=
utox.team.net">Healeys</a><br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Healeys] New clutch quer=
y</p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DM=
soNormal><span style=3D'color:#3333FF'>Simon--<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><=
div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#3333FF'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#3333FF'>I cut=
 the head off one bolt to make it easier to R&amp;R the secondary cylinder.=
 I also fashioned a small door in the&nbsp;extension&nbsp;panel to give acc=
ess to the bleed nipple from inside rather than only under the car.<o:p></o=
:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#3333FF'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D=
'color:#3333FF'>Best--Michael Oritt<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p cla=
ss=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On Sun, =
Sep 19, 2021 at 4:23 PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:hea=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</p></div><blockq=
uote style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0=
in 6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal=
 style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=3D=
EN-GB>You=E2=80=99ll recall the Overdrive saga. Have decided not to commiss=
ion&nbsp; a TV mini-series per someone=E2=80=99s advice.<o:p></o:p></span><=
/p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-=
alt:auto'><span lang=3DEN-GB>1) The overdrive is in and works very well. I =
haven=E2=80=99t tested the pressure yet =E2=80=93 I will =E2=80=93 but it c=
licks in and out very briskly.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal st=
yle=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=3DEN-=
GB>2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to get the old bits off until I borrow=
ed that magic tool. Used the black nylon(?) tool from AHSpares as so much h=
andier than the spare original shaft. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoN=
ormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span la=
ng=3DEN-GB>3) Putting the gearbox back in was pretty tedious. It would go i=
n all the way except for the last 3 or 4 inches. Took it out again and chec=
ked the alignment was 100% which it was. Put it back in, pushed, shoved and=
 cursed. In the end we wound it on with long threaded bolts. I don=E2=80=99=
t want to put in another clutch. Ever.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoN=
ormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span la=
ng=3DEN-GB>4) Now, finally, the QUESTIONS:-<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=
=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><=
span lang=3DEN-GB>Initially, getting the car into any gear was very graunch=
y and really the car would have been undriveable. Pedal pressure felt the s=
ame as before but nothing was happening except expensive noise. <o:p></o:p>=
</span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin=
-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=3DEN-GB>Although there was no evidence of a lo=
ss of fluid =E2=80=93 why would there be? =E2=80=93 I bled the clutch. I ha=
ve fitted the extension tube so it wasn=E2=80=99t tricky. That did make a d=
ifference but not to the way it was previously.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p cla=
ss=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'=
><span lang=3DEN-GB>So (1) Is it normal for clutches to be difficult at fir=
st? A sort of =E2=80=9Cbreaking-in=E2=80=9D period??<o:p></o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:=
auto'><span lang=3DEN-GB>(2) I=E2=80=99ll bleed it again but am drawn to ge=
tting a longer push rod for the slave cylinder. Does that make sense? I do =
have to push the pedal down pretty far. Comments?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p c=
lass=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:aut=
o'><span lang=3DEN-GB>(3) Slightly off topic=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6digging aroun=
d in my files, I saw a suggestion to cut the head off the top bolt that loc=
ates the slave cylinder. Then to Loctite in permanently for use as a dowel =
peg. ie that bolt is a bit of a PITA and one bolt would suffice. Wouldn=E2=
=80=99t it?? <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin=
-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=3DEN-GB>All advice wou=
ld be very welcome,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-=
margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=3DEN-GB>Simon<o:=
p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;ms=
o-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span lang=3DEN-GB>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></=
div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>_____________=
__________________________________<br>Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested an=
nual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br><br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/p=
ipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"http=
://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br><br><a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br><a href=3D=
"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mail=
man/listinfo/healeys</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox=
.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]">http://autox.tea=
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/div><p class=3DMsoNormal><br clear=3Dall></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:=
p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal>-- </p><p class=3DMsoNormal><s=
pan style=3D'color:#3333FF'>Best--Michael</span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o=
:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>=

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[email-masked]

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From: richard mayor via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2021 16:52:16 -0700

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My first thought was that if you were having to force the gearbox when it
was 3 to 4 inches away from home, it may be the spines in the clutch disc
and the input shaft were causing some interference.  This should have been
an easy slip fit.  Did you lubricate the spines?  Test fit the disc on the
input shaft?   Installing a gearbox should not be a tedious affair.  Or,
you did not get the disc properly aligned using the little plastic tool.
There is a lot of wiggle room for error.   I've found that an old input
shaft works better than the plastic ones for getting good alignment.

That brings me to my next observation.  If for some reason the clutch disc
is hanging up on the input shaft it will not disengage as smoothly as it
should.  Is this your problem?  It's not clear to me what you mean when you
say "difficult clutch".

I  have never heard of any need to break-in a clutch.

On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 2:15 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
[email-masked]> wrote:

>> You=E2=80=99ll recall the Overdrive saga. Have decided not to commission=
  a TV
>> 1) The overdrive is in and works very well. I haven=E2=80=99t tested the=
 pressure
>> 2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to get the old bits off until I
>> borrowed that magic tool. Used the black nylon(?) tool from AHSpares as =
so
>> much handier than the spare original shaft.
>>
>> 3) Putting the gearbox back in was pretty tedious. It would go in all th=
e
>> alignment was 100% which it was. Put it back in, pushed, shoved and curs=
ed.
>> In the end we wound it on with long threaded bolts. I don=E2=80=99t want=
 to put in
>> Initially, getting the car into any gear was very graunchy and really th=
e
>> car would have been undriveable. Pedal pressure felt the same as before =
but
>> Although there was no evidence of a loss of fluid =E2=80=93 why would th=
ere be? =E2=80=93
>> I bled the clutch. I have fitted the extension tube so it wasn=E2=80=99t=
 tricky.
>> (2) I=E2=80=99ll bleed it again but am drawn to getting a longer push ro=
d for the
>> (3) Slightly off topic=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6digging around in my files, I sa=
w a suggestion to
>> Loctite in permanently for use as a dowel peg. ie that bolt is a bit of =
a
> --
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>My first thought was that if you were having to force=
 the gearbox when it was 3 to 4 inches away from home, it may be the spines=
 in the clutch disc and the input shaft were causing some interference.=C2=
=A0 This should have been an easy slip fit.=C2=A0 Did you lubricate the spi=
nes?=C2=A0 Test fit the disc on the input shaft? =C2=A0 Installing a gearbo=
x should not be a tedious affair.=C2=A0 Or, you did not get the disc proper=
ly aligned using the little plastic tool.=C2=A0 There is a lot of wiggle ro=
om for error.=C2=A0=C2=A0 I&#39;ve found that an old input shaft works bett=
er than the plastic ones for getting good alignment.=C2=A0=C2=A0 <br></div>=
<div><br></div><div>That brings me to my next observation.=C2=A0 If for som=
e reason the clutch disc is hanging up on the input shaft it will not disen=
gage as smoothly as it should.=C2=A0 Is this your problem?=C2=A0 It&#39;s n=
ot clear to me what you mean when you say &quot;difficult clutch&quot;.<br>=
</div><div><br></div><div> I=C2=A0 have never heard of any need to break-in=
 a clutch.<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" c=
lass=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 2:15 PM Michael Oritt via Heale=
ys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>=
&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px =
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div=
 dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Si=
mon--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>=
</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I cut the=
 head off one bolt to make it easier to R&amp;R the secondary cylinder. I a=
lso fashioned a small door in the=C2=A0extension=C2=A0panel to give access =
to the bleed nipple from inside rather than only under the car.</div><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael Oritt</div>=
</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">=
On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 4:23 PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"ma=
ilto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&g=
t; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0p=
x 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div l=
ang=3D"EN-GB"><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">You=E2=80=99ll recall the Overdri=
ve saga. Have decided not to commission=C2=A0 a TV mini-series per someone=
=E2=80=99s advice.<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">1) The overdrive=
 is in and works very well. I haven=E2=80=99t tested the pressure yet =E2=
=80=93 I will =E2=80=93 but it clicks in and out very briskly.<u></u><u></u=
><font color=3D"#3333ff">Best--Michael</font></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"h=
ttp://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://a=
utox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
eam.net</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
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s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
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</blockquote></div>

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From: Bob Spidell via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2021 18:49:06 -0700

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A couple random thoughts:

- do the special (read: expensive) 'dowel bolts' make a difference on 
installation? Anyone know the real purpose of these?

- what shape is your clutch M/C in?

Bob

On 9/19/2021 2:15 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
> On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 4:23 PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys 
>
>     You’ll recall the Overdrive saga. Have decided not to commission 
>     a TV mini-series per someone’s advice.
>
>     1) The overdrive is in and works very well. I haven’t tested the
>     pressure yet – I will – but it clicks in and out very briskly.
>
>     borrowed that magic tool. Used the black nylon(?) tool from
>     AHSpares as so much handier than the spare original shaft.
>
>     3) Putting the gearbox back in was pretty tedious. It would go in
>     all the way except for the last 3 or 4 inches. Took it out again
>     and checked the alignment was 100% which it was. Put it back in,
>     pushed, shoved and cursed. In the end we wound it on with long
>     threaded bolts. I don’t want to put in another clutch. Ever.
>
>     Initially, getting the car into any gear was very graunchy and
>     really the car would have been undriveable. Pedal pressure felt
>     the same as before but nothing was happening except expensive noise.
>
>     Although there was no evidence of a loss of fluid – why would
>     there be? – I bled the clutch. I have fitted the extension tube so
>     it wasn’t tricky. That did make a difference but not to the way it
>     was previously.
>
>     So (1) Is it normal for clutches to be difficult at first? A sort
>     of “breaking-in” period??
>
>     (2) I’ll bleed it again but am drawn to getting a longer push rod
>     for the slave cylinder. Does that make sense? I do have to push
>     the pedal down pretty far. Comments?
>
>     (3) Slightly off topic……digging around in my files, I saw a
>     suggestion to cut the head off the top bolt that locates the slave
>     cylinder. Then to Loctite in permanently for use as a dowel peg.
>     ie that bolt is a bit of a PITA and one bolt would suffice.
>     Wouldn’t it??
>

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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    A couple random thoughts:<br>
    <br>
    - do the special (read: expensive) 'dowel bolts' make a difference
    on installation? Anyone know the real purpose of these?<br>
    <br>
    - what shape is your clutch M/C in? <br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/19/2021 2:15 PM, Michael Oritt via
      Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Simon--</div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">I cut the head
          off one bolt to make it easier to R&amp;R the secondary
          cylinder. I also fashioned a small door in the extension panel
          to give access to the bleed nipple from inside rather than
          only under the car.</div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Best--Michael
          Oritt</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 4:23
          PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys &lt;<a
            href="mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
          0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div lang="EN-GB">
            <div class="gmail-m_9145404130837437657WordSection1">
              <p class="MsoNormal">You’ll recall the Overdrive saga.
                Have decided not to commission  a TV mini-series per
                someone’s advice.</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">1) The overdrive is in and works very
                well. I haven’t tested the pressure yet – I will – but
                it clicks in and out very briskly.</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to
                get the old bits off until I borrowed that magic tool.
                Used the black nylon(?) tool from AHSpares as so much
                handier than the spare original shaft. </p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">3) Putting the gearbox back in was
                pretty tedious. It would go in all the way except for
                the last 3 or 4 inches. Took it out again and checked
                the alignment was 100% which it was. Put it back in,
                pushed, shoved and cursed. In the end we wound it on
                with long threaded bolts. I don’t want to put in another
                clutch. Ever.</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">4) Now, finally, the QUESTIONS:-</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">Initially, getting the car into any
                gear was very graunchy and really the car would have
                been undriveable. Pedal pressure felt the same as before
                but nothing was happening except expensive noise. </p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">Although there was no evidence of a
                loss of fluid – why would there be? – I bled the clutch.
                I have fitted the extension tube so it wasn’t tricky.
                That did make a difference but not to the way it was
                previously.</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">So (1) Is it normal for clutches to
                be difficult at first? A sort of “breaking-in” period??</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">(2) I’ll bleed it again but am drawn
                to getting a longer push rod for the slave cylinder.
                Does that make sense? I do have to push the pedal down
                pretty far. Comments?</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">(3) Slightly off topic……digging
                around in my files, I saw a suggestion to cut the head
                off the top bolt that locates the slave cylinder. Then
                to Loctite in permanently for use as a dowel peg. ie
                that bolt is a bit of a PITA and one bolt would suffice.
                Wouldn’t it?? </p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">All advice would be very welcome,</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">Simon</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
            </div>
          </div>
          <br>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
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---

From: "m.g.sharp--- via Healeys" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2021 01:07:11 -0400

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	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0046_01D7ADBB.D7861FE0"
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Simon,  hate to say it, but the clutch should work perfectly after it is =
installed, there is no =E2=80=9Cbreak-in=E2=80=9D.  The trouble you had =
getting the g=E2=80=99box in is troubling.  If everything is aligned it  =
should slip in easily.  I presume, when installing, you put it in gear =
and rotated the drive flange to get the shaft splines to align with the =
clutch plate.   I would never pull it together by winding it on with =
bolts.  Your description that the graunchy noises when shifting are =
expensive sounding is likely correct, so it sounds to me that the =
gearbox should come out again and a thorough inspection is warranted.

=20

In addition to checking that the clutch disc slides on the first motion =
shaft splines before assembly, I also always check that the pilot bush =
fits correctly on the end of the shaft.  If these fit correctly and the =
alignment is good, the g=E2=80=99box should slip in easily.  Now, you =
may have to destroy the bush to get it out of the flywheel, but they are =
inexpensive and the peace of mind (never mind the effort to re&re the =
g=E2=80=99box again) makes it worthwhile to do. The pilot bearing should =
be lightly greased before assembly =E2=80=93 I use a molybdenum grease, =
which I also use sparingly on the splines =E2=80=93 don=E2=80=99t put so =
much on that it flies off and contaminates the clutch plate).  I agree =
with Richard that a spare first motion shaft is a better alignment tool =
than a plastic substitute.

=20

Also, ensure that the bell housing to engine bolts are correctly =
located.  There are two special bolts called =E2=80=9Cdowel =
bolts=E2=80=9D (they have their own part number that is different to the =
other bolts) that are more precisely machined to locate the bell =
housing/gearbox accurately on the rear engine plate.  They can be =
identified by a shallow groove that is machined into the shank just =
below the head.  They go in the top left (11 o=E2=80=99clock) and bottom =
right (5:25) holes (looking at the rear on the motor).  See the note on =
page 97 of the Originality Guide (2018) for a full description.  I =
don=E2=80=99t think the workshop manual adequately describes these, =
thinking it is covered under =E2=80=9Creplacement is the reverse of =
removal=E2=80=9D; but you have to be pretty observant to note these two =
bolts on removal!=20

=20

Three years ago I had an issue with a new Borg&Beck clutch plate and had =
my g=E2=80=99box in and out 3 times, so I know how you are feeling, but =
something is wrong and you need to get it right.  When it is together =
again, bolt the driver=E2=80=99s seat back in and test drive it before =
putting the rest of the interior in; it saves a bit of work if there is =
a problem.

=20

Lastly, don=E2=80=99t cut the head of the top slave cylinder bolt.  I =
can guarantee you that if this was acceptable engineering practice the =
accountants at the factory would have insisted it be done.  The slave =
cylinder needs to be securely fastened to the bell housing and one bolt =
is not sufficient.  I have probably had mine off 4, maybe 5 times in 45 =
years of ownership, so if it takes me an extra 10 minutes to remove, so =
what?  If extracting inaccessible bolts is a big issue, don=E2=80=99t =
buy an English car!  (I just had to re&re the rear drain pipe from the =
intake manifold =E2=80=93 that is another fun one!).

=20

Good luck! Mirek

=20

From: Healeys <[email-masked] =
Healeys
Sent: September 19, 2021 7:52 PM
To: Michael Oritt <[email-masked] =
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New clutch query

=20

My first thought was that if you were having to force the gearbox when =
it was 3 to 4 inches away from home, it may be the spines in the clutch =
disc and the input shaft were causing some interference.  This should =
have been an easy slip fit.  Did you lubricate the spines?  Test fit the =
disc on the input shaft?   Installing a gearbox should not be a tedious =
affair.  Or, you did not get the disc properly aligned using the little =
plastic tool.  There is a lot of wiggle room for error.   I've found =
that an old input shaft works better than the plastic ones for getting =
good alignment.  =20

=20

That brings me to my next observation.  If for some reason the clutch =
disc is hanging up on the input shaft it will not disengage as smoothly =
as it should.  Is this your problem?  It's not clear to me what you mean =
when you say "difficult clutch".

=20

=20

On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 2:15 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys =

Simon--

=20

I cut the head off one bolt to make it easier to R&R the secondary =
cylinder. I also fashioned a small door in the extension panel to give =
access to the bleed nipple from inside rather than only under the car.

=20

Best--Michael Oritt

=20

On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 4:23 PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys =

You=E2=80=99ll recall the Overdrive saga. Have decided not to commission =
 a TV mini-series per someone=E2=80=99s advice.

1) The overdrive is in and works very well. I haven=E2=80=99t tested the =
pressure yet =E2=80=93 I will =E2=80=93 but it clicks in and out very =
briskly.

2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to get the old bits off until I =
borrowed that magic tool. Used the black nylon(?) tool from AHSpares as =
so much handier than the spare original shaft.=20

3) Putting the gearbox back in was pretty tedious. It would go in all =
the way except for the last 3 or 4 inches. Took it out again and checked =
the alignment was 100% which it was. Put it back in, pushed, shoved and =
cursed. In the end we wound it on with long threaded bolts. I =
don=E2=80=99t want to put in another clutch. Ever.

Initially, getting the car into any gear was very graunchy and really =
the car would have been undriveable. Pedal pressure felt the same as =
before but nothing was happening except expensive noise.=20

Although there was no evidence of a loss of fluid =E2=80=93 why would =
there be? =E2=80=93 I bled the clutch. I have fitted the extension tube =
so it wasn=E2=80=99t tricky. That did make a difference but not to the =
way it was previously.

So (1) Is it normal for clutches to be difficult at first? A sort of =
=E2=80=9Cbreaking-in=E2=80=9D period??

(2) I=E2=80=99ll bleed it again but am drawn to getting a longer push =
rod for the slave cylinder. Does that make sense? I do have to push the =
pedal down pretty far. Comments?

(3) Slightly off topic=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6digging around in my files, I =
saw a suggestion to cut the head off the top bolt that locates the slave =
cylinder. Then to Loctite in permanently for use as a dowel peg. ie that =
bolt is a bit of a PITA and one bolt would suffice. Wouldn=E2=80=99t =
it??=20

Simon

=20

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
http://autox.team.net/archive

=20

--=20

Best--Michael

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
http://autox.team.net/archive

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-CA link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Simon,&nbsp; hate to say it, but =
the clutch should work perfectly after it is installed, there is no =
=E2=80=9Cbreak-in=E2=80=9D.&nbsp; The trouble you had getting the =
g=E2=80=99box in is troubling.&nbsp; If everything is aligned it&nbsp; =
should slip in easily.&nbsp; I presume, when installing, you put it in =
gear and rotated the drive flange to get the shaft splines to align with =
the clutch plate. &nbsp;&nbsp;I would never pull it together by winding =
it on with bolts. &nbsp;Your description that the graunchy noises when =
shifting are expensive sounding is likely correct, so it sounds to me =
that the gearbox should come out again and a thorough inspection is =
warranted.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>In addition =
to checking that the clutch disc slides on the first motion shaft =
splines <u>before </u>assembly, I also always check that the pilot bush =
fits correctly on the end of the shaft.&nbsp; If these fit correctly and =
the alignment is good, the g=E2=80=99box should slip in easily.&nbsp; =
Now, you may have to destroy the bush to get it out of the flywheel, but =
they are inexpensive and the peace of mind (never mind the effort to =
re&amp;re the g=E2=80=99box again) makes it worthwhile to do. The pilot =
bearing should be lightly greased before assembly =E2=80=93 I use a =
molybdenum grease, which I also use sparingly on the splines =E2=80=93 =
don=E2=80=99t put so much on that it flies off and contaminates the =
clutch plate).&nbsp; I agree with Richard that a spare first motion =
shaft is a better alignment tool than a plastic =
substitute.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Also, =
ensure that the bell housing to engine bolts are correctly =
located.&nbsp; There are two special bolts called =E2=80=9Cdowel =
bolts=E2=80=9D (they have their own part number that is different to the =
other bolts) that are more precisely machined to locate the bell =
housing/gearbox accurately on the rear engine plate.&nbsp; They can be =
identified by a shallow groove that is machined into the shank just =
below the head.&nbsp; They go in the top left (11 o=E2=80=99clock) and =
bottom right (5:25) holes (looking at the rear on the motor).&nbsp; See =
the note on page 97 of the Originality Guide (2018) for a full =
description.&nbsp; I don=E2=80=99t think the workshop manual adequately =
describes these, thinking it is covered under =E2=80=9Creplacement is =
the reverse of removal=E2=80=9D; but you have to be pretty observant to =
note these two bolts on removal! <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Three years =
ago I had an issue with a new Borg&amp;Beck clutch plate and had my =
g=E2=80=99box in and out 3 times, so I know how you are feeling, but =
something is wrong and you need to get it right.&nbsp; When it is =
together again, bolt the driver=E2=80=99s seat back in and test drive it =
before putting the rest of the interior in; it saves a bit of work if =
there is a problem.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Lastly, =
don=E2=80=99t cut the head of the top slave cylinder bolt.&nbsp; I can =
guarantee you that if this was acceptable engineering practice the =
accountants at the factory would have insisted it be done.&nbsp; The =
slave cylinder needs to be securely fastened to the bell housing and one =
bolt is not sufficient.&nbsp; I have probably had mine off 4, maybe 5 =
times in 45 years of ownership, so if it takes me an extra 10 minutes to =
remove, so what?&nbsp; If extracting inaccessible bolts is a big issue, =
don=E2=80=99t buy an English car!&nbsp; (I just had to re&amp;re the =
rear drain pipe from the intake manifold =E2=80=93 that is another fun =
one!).<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Good luck! =
Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US> Healeys &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
.net</a>&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>richard mayor via =
Healeys<br><b>Sent:</b> September 19, 2021 7:52 PM<br><b>To:</b> Michael =
Oritt &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<b=
r><b>Cc:</b> Healeys &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>=
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] New clutch =
query<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>My =
first thought was that if you were having to force the gearbox when it =
was 3 to 4 inches away from home, it may be the spines in the clutch =
disc and the input shaft were causing some interference.&nbsp; This =
should have been an easy slip fit.&nbsp; Did you lubricate the =
spines?&nbsp; Test fit the disc on the input shaft? &nbsp; Installing a =
gearbox should not be a tedious affair.&nbsp; Or, you did not get the =
disc properly aligned using the little plastic tool.&nbsp; There is a =
lot of wiggle room for error.&nbsp;&nbsp; I've found that an old input =
shaft works better than the plastic ones for getting good =
alignment.&nbsp;&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>That brings me to my next observation.&nbsp; If for =
some reason the clutch disc is hanging up on the input shaft it will not =
disengage as smoothly as it should.&nbsp; Is this your problem?&nbsp; =
It's not clear to me what you mean when you say &quot;difficult =
clutch&quot;.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>I&nbsp; have never heard of any need to break-in a =
clutch.<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 2:15 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0cm;margin-bottom:5=
.0pt'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#3333FF'>Simon--<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#3333FF'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#3333FF'>I cut the head off one =
bolt to make it easier to R&amp;R the secondary cylinder. I also =
fashioned a small door in the&nbsp;extension&nbsp;panel to give access =
to the bleed nipple from inside rather than only under the =
car.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#3333FF'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#3333FF'>Best--Michael =
Oritt<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 4:23 PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0cm;margin-bottom:5=
.0pt'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>You=E2=80=99ll recall the Overdrive saga. Have decided not =
to commission&nbsp; a TV mini-series per someone=E2=80=99s =
advice.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>1) The overdrive is in and works very well. I =
haven=E2=80=99t tested the pressure yet =E2=80=93 I will =E2=80=93 but =
it clicks in and out very briskly.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to get the old bits off =
until I borrowed that magic tool. Used the black nylon(?) tool from =
AHSpares as so much handier than the spare original shaft. =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>3) Putting the gearbox back in was pretty tedious. It would =
go in all the way except for the last 3 or 4 inches. Took it out again =
and checked the alignment was 100% which it was. Put it back in, pushed, =
shoved and cursed. In the end we wound it on with long threaded bolts. I =
don=E2=80=99t want to put in another clutch. =
Ever.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>4) Now, finally, the QUESTIONS:-<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Initially, getting the car into any gear was very graunchy =
and really the car would have been undriveable. Pedal pressure felt the =
same as before but nothing was happening except expensive noise. =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Although there was no evidence of a loss of fluid =E2=80=93 =
why would there be? =E2=80=93 I bled the clutch. I have fitted the =
extension tube so it wasn=E2=80=99t tricky. That did make a difference =
but not to the way it was previously.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>So (1) Is it normal for clutches to be difficult at first? =
A sort of =E2=80=9Cbreaking-in=E2=80=9D period??<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>(2) I=E2=80=99ll bleed it again but am drawn to getting a =
longer push rod for the slave cylinder. Does that make sense? I do have =
to push the pedal down pretty far. Comments?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>(3) Slightly off topic=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6digging around in =
my files, I saw a suggestion to cut the head off the top bolt that =
locates the slave cylinder. Then to Loctite in permanently for use as a =
dowel peg. ie that bolt is a bit of a PITA and one bolt would suffice. =
Wouldn=E2=80=99t it?? <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>All advice would be very welcome,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>__________________________________________=
_____<br>Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested =
annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br><br>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br><br><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br><a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br><=
br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail=
.com" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.o=
[email-masked]</a><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br clear=3Dall><o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal>-- =
<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#3333FF'>Best--Michael</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>__________________________________________=
_____<br>Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested =
annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br><br>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br><br><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br><a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br><=
br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]=
om" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer4=
[email-masked]</a><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div></div></body></html>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2021 01:09:48 -0400

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I just posted on these.  They are more accurately machined bolts that go =
in the top left and bottom right holes and ensue that the bell =
housing/gearbox are exactly aligned the rear engine plate.  There is =
more clearance with a =E2=80=9Cnormal=E2=80=9D bolt and conceivably =
there can be mis-alignment of the first motion shaft in the flywheel =
bush that results in bearing wear in the g=E2=80=99box.  I figure if the =
factory went to the trouble of specifying these bolts, there was a =
reason for it, so always pay attention to it.  See page 97 of the =
=E2=80=9COriginality Guide=E2=80=9D (2018) =E2=80=93 which I assume =
EVERYONE has purchased from the Club=E2=80=99s Concours Registry.

=20

Cheers, Mirek

=20

From: Healeys <[email-masked] =
Healeys
Sent: September 19, 2021 9:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New clutch query

=20

- do the special (read: expensive) 'dowel bolts' make a difference on =
installation? Anyone know the real purpose of these?

- what shape is your clutch M/C in?=20

Bob

Simon--

=20

=20

Best--Michael Oritt

=20

Simon

=20

=20

=20

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<html xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" =
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-CA link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>I just posted on these.&nbsp; They =
are more accurately machined bolts that go in the top left and bottom =
right holes and ensue that the bell housing/gearbox are exactly aligned =
the rear engine plate.&nbsp; There is more clearance with a =
=E2=80=9Cnormal=E2=80=9D bolt and conceivably there can be mis-alignment =
of the first motion shaft in the flywheel bush that results in bearing =
wear in the g=E2=80=99box.&nbsp; I figure if the factory went to the =
trouble of specifying these bolts, there was a reason for it, so always =
pay attention to it.&nbsp; See page 97 of the =E2=80=9COriginality =
Guide=E2=80=9D (2018) =E2=80=93 which I assume EVERYONE has purchased =
from the Club=E2=80=99s Concours Registry.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Cheers, =
Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><di=
v style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US> Healeys &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
.net</a>&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Bob Spidell via Healeys<br><b>Sent:</b> =
September 19, 2021 9:49 PM<br><b>To:</b> <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br><b>S=
ubject:</b> Re: [Healeys] New clutch =
query<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>A couple random thoughts:<br><br>- do the =
special (read: expensive) 'dowel bolts' make a difference on =
installation? Anyone know the real purpose of these?<br><br>- what shape =
is your clutch M/C in? <br><br>Bob<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 9/19/2021 2:15 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#3333FF'>Simon--<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#3333FF'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#3333FF'>I cut the head off one =
bolt to make it easier to R&amp;R the secondary cylinder. I also =
fashioned a small door in the&nbsp;extension&nbsp;panel to give access =
to the bleed nipple from inside rather than only under the =
car.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#3333FF'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#3333FF'>Best--Michael =
Oritt<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 4:23 PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0cm;margin-bottom:5=
.0pt'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>You=E2=80=99ll recall the Overdrive saga. Have decided not =
to commission&nbsp; a TV mini-series per someone=E2=80=99s =
advice.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>1) The overdrive is in and works very well. I =
haven=E2=80=99t tested the pressure yet =E2=80=93 I will =E2=80=93 but =
it clicks in and out very briskly.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to get the old bits off =
until I borrowed that magic tool. Used the black nylon(?) tool from =
AHSpares as so much handier than the spare original shaft. =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>3) Putting the gearbox back in was pretty tedious. It would =
go in all the way except for the last 3 or 4 inches. Took it out again =
and checked the alignment was 100% which it was. Put it back in, pushed, =
shoved and cursed. In the end we wound it on with long threaded bolts. I =
don=E2=80=99t want to put in another clutch. =
Ever.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>4) Now, finally, the QUESTIONS:-<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Initially, getting the car into any gear was very graunchy =
and really the car would have been undriveable. Pedal pressure felt the =
same as before but nothing was happening except expensive noise. =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Although there was no evidence of a loss of fluid =E2=80=93 =
why would there be? =E2=80=93 I bled the clutch. I have fitted the =
extension tube so it wasn=E2=80=99t tricky. That did make a difference =
but not to the way it was previously.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>So (1) Is it normal for clutches to be difficult at first? =
A sort of =E2=80=9Cbreaking-in=E2=80=9D period??<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>(2) I=E2=80=99ll bleed it again but am drawn to getting a =
longer push rod for the slave cylinder. Does that make sense? I do have =
to push the pedal down pretty far. Comments?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>(3) Slightly off topic=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6digging around in =
my files, I saw a suggestion to cut the head off the top bolt that =
locates the slave cylinder. Then to Loctite in permanently for use as a =
dowel peg. ie that bolt is a bit of a PITA and one bolt would suffice. =
Wouldn=E2=80=99t it?? <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>All advice would be very welcome,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></blockquote></div></blockquote><p=
 class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
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[email-masked]

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From: josef-eckert--- via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2021 08:12:08 +0200 (CEST)

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Hi Mirek,
That=C2=B4s a phantastic distcribtion of how to do get a gearbox in and wha=
t=20
happens if you are not skilled enough and it goes wrong.
Many thanks, I fully second your writing.
Cheers,
=20
Josef Eckert
Germany
=20
=20
=20
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: [Healeys] FW: New clutch query
Datum: 2021-09-20T07:08:27+0200
Von: "m.g.sharp--- via Healeys" <[email-masked]>
An: "'AH Mail List'" <[email-masked]>
=20
=20
=20

Simon,  hate to say it, but the clutch should work perfectly after it is=20
installed, there is no =E2=80=9Cbreak-in=E2=80=9D.  The trouble you had get=
ting the g=E2=80=99box=20
in is troubling.  If everything is aligned it  should slip in easily.  I=20
presume, when installing, you put it in gear and rotated the drive flange=
=20
to get the shaft splines to align with the clutch plate.   I would never=20
pull it together by winding it on with bolts.  Your description that the=20
graunchy noises when shifting are expensive sounding is likely correct, so=
=20
it sounds to me that the gearbox should come out again and a thorough=20
inspection is warranted.

=20

In addition to checking that the clutch disc slides on the first motion=20
shaft splines before assembly, I also always check that the pilot bush fits=
=20
correctly on the end of the shaft.  If these fit correctly and the=20
alignment is good, the g=E2=80=99box should slip in easily.  Now, you may h=
ave to=20
destroy the bush to get it out of the flywheel, but they are inexpensive=20
and the peace of mind (never mind the effort to re&re the g=E2=80=99box aga=
in)=20
makes it worthwhile to do. The pilot bearing should be lightly greased=20
before assembly =E2=80=93 I use a molybdenum grease, which I also use spari=
ngly on=20
the splines =E2=80=93 don=E2=80=99t put so much on that it flies off and co=
ntaminates the=20
clutch plate).  I agree with Richard that a spare first motion shaft is a=
=20
better alignment tool than a plastic substitute.

=20

Also, ensure that the bell housing to engine bolts are correctly located. =
=20
There are two special bolts called =E2=80=9Cdowel bolts=E2=80=9D (they have=
 their own part=20
number that is different to the other bolts) that are more precisely=20
machined to locate the bell housing/gearbox accurately on the rear engine=
=20
plate.  They can be identified by a shallow groove that is machined into=20
the shank just below the head.  They go in the top left (11 o=E2=80=99clock=
) and=20
bottom right (5:25) holes (looking at the rear on the motor).  See the note=
=20
on page 97 of the Originality Guide (2018) for a full description.  I don=
=E2=80=99t=20
think the workshop manual adequately describes these, thinking it is=20
covered under =E2=80=9Creplacement is the reverse of removal=E2=80=9D; but =
you have to be=20
pretty observant to note these two bolts on removal!

=20

Three years ago I had an issue with a new Borg&Beck clutch plate and had my=
=20
g=E2=80=99box in and out 3 times, so I know how you are feeling, but someth=
ing is=20
wrong and you need to get it right.  When it is together again, bolt the=20
driver=E2=80=99s seat back in and test drive it before putting the rest of =
the=20
interior in; it saves a bit of work if there is a problem.

=20

Lastly, don=E2=80=99t cut the head of the top slave cylinder bolt.  I can g=
uarantee=20
you that if this was acceptable engineering practice the accountants at the=
=20
factory would have insisted it be done.  The slave cylinder needs to be=20
securely fastened to the bell housing and one bolt is not sufficient.  I=20
have probably had mine off 4, maybe 5 times in 45 years of ownership, so if=
=20
it takes me an extra 10 minutes to remove, so what?  If extracting=20
inaccessible bolts is a big issue, don=E2=80=99t buy an English car!  (I ju=
st had=20
to re&re the rear drain pipe from the intake manifold =E2=80=93 that is ano=
ther fun=20
one!).

=20

Good luck! Mirek

=20

From: Healeys <[email-masked]
Healeys
Sent: September 19, 2021 7:52 PM
=20

=20

My first thought was that if you were having to force the gearbox when it=
=20
was 3 to 4 inches away from home, it may be the spines in the clutch disc=
=20
and the input shaft were causing some interference.  This should have been=
=20
an easy slip fit.  Did you lubricate the spines?  Test fit the disc on the=
=20
input shaft?   Installing a gearbox should not be a tedious affair.  Or,=20
you did not get the disc properly aligned using the little plastic tool. =
=20
There is a lot of wiggle room for error.   I've found that an old input=20
shaft works better than the plastic ones for getting good alignment. =20

=20

That brings me to my next observation.  If for some reason the clutch disc=
=20
is hanging up on the input shaft it will not disengage as smoothly as it=20
should.  Is this your problem?  It's not clear to me what you mean when you=
=20
say "difficult clutch".

=20

=20

 Simon--

 =20

 =20

 Best--Michael Oritt

 =20

  2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to get the old bits off until I
  borrowed that magic tool. Used the black nylon(?) tool from AHSpares as
  so much handier than the spare original shaft.

  3) Putting the gearbox back in was pretty tedious. It would go in all the
  way except for the last 3 or 4 inches. Took it out again and checked the
  alignment was 100% which it was. Put it back in, pushed, shoved and
  cursed. In the end we wound it on with long threaded bolts. I don=E2=80=
=99t want
  to put in another clutch. Ever.

  Initially, getting the car into any gear was very graunchy and really the
  car would have been undriveable. Pedal pressure felt the same as before
  but nothing was happening except expensive noise.

  Simon

  =20

  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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  Archive:<http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
  <http://autox.team.net/archive>

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 =20

 =20

 --

 Best--Michael

 _______________________________________________
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=EF=BB=BF
------=_Part_2541643_1625235955.1632118328259
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=
=3DUTF-8"/><title></title></head><body><p style=3D"margin: 0px;"><span styl=
e=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;te=
xt-decoration:none">Hi Mirek,<br /></span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-s=
erif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none">That&acute;s a phan=
tastic distcribtion of how to do get a gearbox in and what happens if you a=
re not skilled enough and it goes wrong. </span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-s=
erif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none">Many thanks, I full=
y second your writing.</span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-s=
erif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none">Cheers,</span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-s=
erif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none">Josef Eckert</span>=
</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-s=
erif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none">Germany</span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-s=
erif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">-----Original-Nachricht-----</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">Betreff: [Healeys] FW: New clutch query</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">Datum: 2021-09-20T07:08:27+0200</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">Von: "m.g.sharp--- via Healeys" &lt;healeys@autox=
.team.net&gt;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">An: "'AH Mail List'" &lt;[email-masked]&g=
t;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">&nbsp;</p>
<div>
<div class=3D"WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Simon,&=
nbsp; hate to say it, but the clutch should work perfectly after it is inst=
alled, there is no &ldquo;break-in&rdquo;.&nbsp; The trouble you had gettin=
g the g&rsquo;box in is troubling.&nbsp; If everything is aligned it&nbsp; =
should slip in easily.&nbsp; I presume, when installing, you put it in gear=
 and rotated the drive flange to get the shaft splines to align with the cl=
utch plate. &nbsp;&nbsp;I would never pull it together by winding it on wit=
h bolts. &nbsp;Your description that the graunchy noises when shifting are =
expensive sounding is likely correct, so it sounds to me that the gearbox s=
hould come out again and a thorough inspection is warranted.</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">&nbsp;<=
/span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">In addi=
tion to checking that the clutch disc slides on the first motion shaft spli=
nes <u>before </u>assembly, I also always check that the pilot bush fits co=
rrectly on the end of the shaft.&nbsp; If these fit correctly and the align=
ment is good, the g&rsquo;box should slip in easily.&nbsp; Now, you may hav=
e to destroy the bush to get it out of the flywheel, but they are inexpensi=
ve and the peace of mind (never mind the effort to re&amp;re the g&rsquo;bo=
x again) makes it worthwhile to do. The pilot bearing should be lightly gre=
ased before assembly &ndash; I use a molybdenum grease, which I also use sp=
aringly on the splines &ndash; don&rsquo;t put so much on that it flies off=
 and contaminates the clutch plate).&nbsp; I agree with Richard that a spar=
e first motion shaft is a better alignment tool than a plastic substitute.<=
/span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">&nbsp;<=
/span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Also, e=
nsure that the bell housing to engine bolts are correctly located.&nbsp; Th=
ere are two special bolts called &ldquo;dowel bolts&rdquo; (they have their=
 own part number that is different to the other bolts) that are more precis=
ely machined to locate the bell housing/gearbox accurately on the rear engi=
ne plate.&nbsp; They can be identified by a shallow groove that is machined=
 into the shank just below the head.&nbsp; They go in the top left (11 o&rs=
quo;clock) and bottom right (5:25) holes (looking at the rear on the motor)=
.&nbsp; See the note on page 97 of the Originality Guide (2018) for a full =
description.&nbsp; I don&rsquo;t think the workshop manual adequately descr=
ibes these, thinking it is covered under &ldquo;replacement is the reverse =
of removal&rdquo;; but you have to be pretty observant to note these two bo=
lts on removal! </span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">&nbsp;<=
/span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Three y=
ears ago I had an issue with a new Borg&amp;Beck clutch plate and had my g&=
rsquo;box in and out 3 times, so I know how you are feeling, but something =
is wrong and you need to get it right.&nbsp; When it is together again, bol=
t the driver&rsquo;s seat back in and test drive it before putting the rest=
 of the interior in; it saves a bit of work if there is a problem.</span></=
p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">&nbsp;<=
/span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Lastly,=
 don&rsquo;t cut the head of the top slave cylinder bolt.&nbsp; I can guara=
ntee you that if this was acceptable engineering practice the accountants a=
t the factory would have insisted it be done.&nbsp; The slave cylinder need=
s to be securely fastened to the bell housing and one bolt is not sufficien=
t.&nbsp; I have probably had mine off 4, maybe 5 times in 45 years of owner=
ship, so if it takes me an extra 10 minutes to remove, so what?&nbsp; If ex=
tracting inaccessible bolts is a big issue, don&rsquo;t buy an English car!=
&nbsp; (I just had to re&amp;re the rear drain pipe from the intake manifol=
d &ndash; that is another fun one!).</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">&nbsp;<=
/span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Good lu=
ck! Mirek</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">&nbsp;<=
/span></p>
<div style=3D"border: none; border-top: solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt; padding: 3.0pt=
 0cm 0cm 0cm;">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><strong><span lang=3D"EN-US">From:</span></strong><s=
pan lang=3D"EN-US"> Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
m.net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; <strong>On Behalf Of </strong=
>richard mayor via Healeys<br /><strong>Sent:</strong> September 19, 2021 7=
:52 PM<br /><strong>To:</strong> Michael Oritt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:michae=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br /><strong>Cc:</strong=
> Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked].=
net</a>&gt;<br /><strong>Subject:</strong> Re: [Healeys] New clutch query</=
span></p>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">My first thought was that if you were having to forc=
e the gearbox when it was 3 to 4 inches away from home, it may be the spine=
s in the clutch disc and the input shaft were causing some interference.&nb=
sp; This should have been an easy slip fit.&nbsp; Did you lubricate the spi=
nes?&nbsp; Test fit the disc on the input shaft? &nbsp; Installing a gearbo=
x should not be a tedious affair.&nbsp; Or, you did not get the disc proper=
ly aligned using the little plastic tool.&nbsp; There is a lot of wiggle ro=
om for error.&nbsp;&nbsp; I've found that an old input shaft works better t=
han the plastic ones for getting good alignment.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">That brings me to my next observation.&nbsp; If for =
some reason the clutch disc is hanging up on the input shaft it will not di=
sengage as smoothly as it should.&nbsp; Is this your problem?&nbsp; It's no=
t clear to me what you mean when you say "difficult clutch".</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">I&nbsp; have never heard of any need to break-in a c=
lutch.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 2:15 PM Michael Oritt via He=
aleys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]<=
/a>&gt; wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"border: none; border-left: solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt; paddin=
g: 0cm 0cm 0cm 6.0pt; margin: 5.0pt 0cm 5.0pt 4.8pt;">
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color: #3333ff;">Simon--</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color: #3333ff;">&nbsp;</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color: #3333ff;">I cut the head off o=
ne bolt to make it easier to R&amp;R the secondary cylinder. I also fashion=
ed a small door in the&nbsp;extension&nbsp;panel to give access to the blee=
d nipple from inside rather than only under the car.</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color: #3333ff;">&nbsp;</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color: #3333ff;">Best--Michael Oritt<=
/span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 4:23 PM Simon Lachlan via He=
aleys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]<=
/a>&gt; wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"border: none; border-left: solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt; paddin=
g: 0cm 0cm 0cm 6.0pt; margin: 5.0pt 0cm 5.0pt 4.8pt;">
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom=
-alt: auto;"><span lang=3D"EN-GB">You&rsquo;ll recall the Overdrive saga. H=
ave decided not to commission&nbsp; a TV mini-series per someone&rsquo;s ad=
vice.</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom=
-alt: auto;"><span lang=3D"EN-GB">1) The overdrive is in and works very wel=
l. I haven&rsquo;t tested the pressure yet &ndash; I will &ndash; but it cl=
icks in and out very briskly.</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom=
-alt: auto;"><span lang=3D"EN-GB">2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to get =
the old bits off until I borrowed that magic tool. Used the black nylon(?) =
tool from AHSpares as so much handier than the spare original shaft. </span=
></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom=
-alt: auto;"><span lang=3D"EN-GB">3) Putting the gearbox back in was pretty=
 tedious. It would go in all the way except for the last 3 or 4 inches. Too=
k it out again and checked the alignment was 100% which it was. Put it back=
 in, pushed, shoved and cursed. In the end we wound it on with long threade=
d bolts. I don&rsquo;t want to put in another clutch. Ever.</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom=
-alt: auto;"><span lang=3D"EN-GB">4) Now, finally, the QUESTIONS:-</span></=
p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom=
-alt: auto;"><span lang=3D"EN-GB">Initially, getting the car into any gear =
was very graunchy and really the car would have been undriveable. Pedal pre=
ssure felt the same as before but nothing was happening except expensive no=
ise. </span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom=
-alt: auto;"><span lang=3D"EN-GB">Although there was no evidence of a loss =
of fluid &ndash; why would there be? &ndash; I bled the clutch. I have fitt=
ed the extension tube so it wasn&rsquo;t tricky. That did make a difference=
 but not to the way it was previously.</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom=
-alt: auto;"><span lang=3D"EN-GB">So (1) Is it normal for clutches to be di=
fficult at first? A sort of &ldquo;breaking-in&rdquo; period??</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom=
-alt: auto;"><span lang=3D"EN-GB">(2) I&rsquo;ll bleed it again but am draw=
n to getting a longer push rod for the slave cylinder. Does that make sense=
? I do have to push the pedal down pretty far. Comments?</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom=
-alt: auto;"><span lang=3D"EN-GB">(3) Slightly off topic&hellip;&hellip;dig=
ging around in my files, I saw a suggestion to cut the head off the top bol=
t that locates the slave cylinder. Then to Loctite in permanently for use a=
s a dowel peg. ie that bolt is a bit of a PITA and one bolt would suffice. =
Wouldn&rsquo;t it?? </span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom=
-alt: auto;"><span lang=3D"EN-GB">All advice would be very welcome,</span><=
/p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom=
-alt: auto;"><span lang=3D"EN-GB">Simon</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom=
-alt: auto;"><span lang=3D"EN-GB">&nbsp;</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom: 12.0pt;">___________________=
____________________________<br />Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.te=
am.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br />Suggested annu=
al donation&nbsp; $12.75<br /><br />Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net=
/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"ht=
tp://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br /><br /><=
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</blockquote>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">--</p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color: #3333ff;">Best--Michael</span>=
</p>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom: 12.0pt;">___________________=
____________________________<br />Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.te=
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/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"ht=
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</blockquote>
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[email-masked]

--===============8159658218339302415==--

---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2021 06:07:11 -0700

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A bit off-topic, but while the bell housing is on the bench it might be 
a good idea to install thread inserts in the threaded holes that fix the 
slave cylinder bolts. These tend to get bunged-up with repeated R&R of 
the slave cylinder, and it's steel bolts into aluminium holes. I don't 
think I'd be comfortable with cutting the upper bolt's head off either; 
the slave cylinder is secured by tension and if any threads are exposed 
this could cause fretting on the slave cylinder hole (probably not an 
issue the way our cars are driven now, but over a hundred thousands of 
miles or so).

Not mentioned so far is the lever that operates the release bearing; the 
shaft on which said lever pivots gets worn over time, allowing some side 
play. My BJ8's lever had noticeable side play at over 200K miles; my dad 
didn't think it was a big deal, but I figured it would keep me up at 
nights if I didn't replace it. It ended up being a bigger job than it 
should have been, given the parts available from the 'usual suspect.'

Shipwright's Disease in action.

On 9/19/2021 10:07 PM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Simon, hate to say it, but the clutch should work perfectly after it 
> is installed, there is no “break-in”.  The trouble you had getting the 
> g’box in is troubling.  If everything is aligned it  should slip in 
> easily.  I presume, when installing, you put it in gear and rotated 
> the drive flange to get the shaft splines to align with the clutch 
> plate.   I would never pull it together by winding it on with bolts. 
>  Your description that the graunchy noises when shifting are expensive 
> sounding is likely correct, so it sounds to me that the gearbox should 
> come out again and a thorough inspection is warranted.
>
> In addition to checking that the clutch disc slides on the first 
> motion shaft splines _before _assembly, I also always check that the 
> pilot bush fits correctly on the end of the shaft.  If these fit 
> correctly and the alignment is good, the g’box should slip in easily.  
> Now, you may have to destroy the bush to get it out of the flywheel, 
> but they are inexpensive and the peace of mind (never mind the effort 
> to re&re the g’box again) makes it worthwhile to do. The pilot bearing 
> should be lightly greased before assembly – I use a molybdenum grease, 
> which I also use sparingly on the splines – don’t put so much on that 
> it flies off and contaminates the clutch plate).  I agree with Richard 
> that a spare first motion shaft is a better alignment tool than a 
> plastic substitute.
>
> Also, ensure that the bell housing to engine bolts are correctly 
> located.  There are two special bolts called “dowel bolts” (they have 
> their own part number that is different to the other bolts) that are 
> more precisely machined to locate the bell housing/gearbox accurately 
> on the rear engine plate. They can be identified by a shallow groove 
> that is machined into the shank just below the head.  They go in the 
> top left (11 o’clock) and bottom right (5:25) holes (looking at the 
> rear on the motor).  See the note on page 97 of the Originality Guide 
> (2018) for a full description.  I don’t think the workshop manual 
> adequately describes these, thinking it is covered under “replacement 
> is the reverse of removal”; but you have to be pretty observant to 
> note these two bolts on removal!
>
> Three years ago I had an issue with a new Borg&Beck clutch plate and 
> had my g’box in and out 3 times, so I know how you are feeling, but 
> something is wrong and you need to get it right.  When it is together 
> again, bolt the driver’s seat back in and test drive it before putting 
> the rest of the interior in; it saves a bit of work if there is a problem.
>
> Lastly, don’t cut the head of the top slave cylinder bolt.  I can 
> guarantee you that if this was acceptable engineering practice the 
> accountants at the factory would have insisted it be done.  The slave 
> cylinder needs to be securely fastened to the bell housing and one 
> bolt is not sufficient.  I have probably had mine off 4, maybe 5 times 
> in 45 years of ownership, so if it takes me an extra 10 minutes to 
> remove, so what?  If extracting inaccessible bolts is a big issue, 
> don’t buy an English car!  (I just had to re&re the rear drain pipe 
> from the intake manifold – that is another fun one!).
>
> Good luck! Mirek
>
> *From:*Healeys <[email-masked] 
> via Healeys
> *Sent:* September 19, 2021 7:52 PM
> *To:* Michael Oritt <[email-masked] 
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] New clutch query
>
> My first thought was that if you were having to force the gearbox when 
> it was 3 to 4 inches away from home, it may be the spines in the 
> clutch disc and the input shaft were causing some interference.  This 
> should have been an easy slip fit.  Did you lubricate the spines?  
> Test fit the disc on the input shaft? Installing a gearbox should not 
> be a tedious affair.  Or, you did not get the disc properly aligned 
> using the little plastic tool.  There is a lot of wiggle room for 
> error. I've found that an old input shaft works better than the 
> plastic ones for getting good alignment.
>
> That brings me to my next observation. If for some reason the clutch 
> disc is hanging up on the input shaft it will not disengage as 
> smoothly as it should.  Is this your problem?  It's not clear to me 
> what you mean when you say "difficult clutch".
>
> On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 2:15 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys 
>
>     Simon--
>
>     cylinder. I also fashioned a small door in the extension panel to
>     give access to the bleed nipple from inside rather than only under
>     the car.
>
>     Best--Michael Oritt
>
>         You’ll recall the Overdrive saga. Have decided not to
>         commission  a TV mini-series per someone’s advice.
>
>         1) The overdrive is in and works very well. I haven’t tested
>         the pressure yet – I will – but it clicks in and out very briskly.
>
>         2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to get the old bits off
>         until I borrowed that magic tool. Used the black nylon(?) tool
>         from AHSpares as so much handier than the spare original shaft.
>
>         3) Putting the gearbox back in was pretty tedious. It would go
>         in all the way except for the last 3 or 4 inches. Took it out
>         again and checked the alignment was 100% which it was. Put it
>         back in, pushed, shoved and cursed. In the end we wound it on
>         clutch. Ever.
>         really the car would have been undriveable. Pedal pressure
>         felt the same as before but nothing was happening except
>         expensive noise.
>
>         there be? – I bled the clutch. I have fitted the extension
>         tube so it wasn’t tricky. That did make a difference but not
>         to the way it was previously.
>
>         So (1) Is it normal for clutches to be difficult at first? A
>         sort of “breaking-in” period??
>
>         (2) I’ll bleed it again but am drawn to getting a longer push
>         rod for the slave cylinder. Does that make sense? I do have to
>         push the pedal down pretty far. Comments?
>
>         suggestion to cut the head off the top bolt that locates the
>         slave cylinder. Then to Loctite in permanently for use as a
>         dowel peg. ie that bolt is a bit of a PITA and one bolt would
>         suffice. Wouldn’t it??
>

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    A bit off-topic, but while the bell housing is on the bench it might
    be a good idea to install thread inserts in the threaded holes that
    fix the slave cylinder bolts. These tend to get bunged-up with
    repeated R&amp;R of the slave cylinder, and it's steel bolts into
    aluminium holes. I don't think I'd be comfortable with cutting the
    upper bolt's head off either; the slave cylinder is secured by
    tension and if any threads are exposed this could cause fretting on
    the slave cylinder hole (probably not an issue the way our cars are
    driven now, but over a hundred thousands of miles or so).<br>
    <br>
    Not mentioned so far is the lever that operates the release bearing;
    the shaft on which said lever pivots gets worn over time, allowing
    some side play. My BJ8's lever had noticeable side play at over 200K
    miles; my dad didn't think it was a big deal, but I figured it would
    keep me up at nights if I didn't replace it. It ended up being a
    bigger job than it should have been, given the parts available from
    the 'usual suspect.'<br>
    <br>
    Shipwright's Disease in action.<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/19/2021 10:07 PM, m.g.sharp--- via
      Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
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        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Simon, 
            hate to say it, but the clutch should work perfectly after
            it is installed, there is no “break-in”.  The trouble you
            had getting the g’box in is troubling.  If everything is
            aligned it  should slip in easily.  I presume, when
            installing, you put it in gear and rotated the drive flange
            to get the shaft splines to align with the clutch plate.   I
            would never pull it together by winding it on with bolts.
             Your description that the graunchy noises when shifting are
            expensive sounding is likely correct, so it sounds to me
            that the gearbox should come out again and a thorough
            inspection is warranted.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">In
            addition to checking that the clutch disc slides on the
            first motion shaft splines <u>before </u>assembly, I also
            always check that the pilot bush fits correctly on the end
            of the shaft.  If these fit correctly and the alignment is
            good, the g’box should slip in easily.  Now, you may have to
            destroy the bush to get it out of the flywheel, but they are
            inexpensive and the peace of mind (never mind the effort to
            re&amp;re the g’box again) makes it worthwhile to do. The
            pilot bearing should be lightly greased before assembly – I
            use a molybdenum grease, which I also use sparingly on the
            splines – don’t put so much on that it flies off and
            contaminates the clutch plate).  I agree with Richard that a
            spare first motion shaft is a better alignment tool than a
            plastic substitute.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Also,
            ensure that the bell housing to engine bolts are correctly
            located.  There are two special bolts called “dowel bolts”
            (they have their own part number that is different to the
            other bolts) that are more precisely machined to locate the
            bell housing/gearbox accurately on the rear engine plate. 
            They can be identified by a shallow groove that is machined
            into the shank just below the head.  They go in the top left
            (11 o’clock) and bottom right (5:25) holes (looking at the
            rear on the motor).  See the note on page 97 of the
            Originality Guide (2018) for a full description.  I don’t
            think the workshop manual adequately describes these,
            thinking it is covered under “replacement is the reverse of
            removal”; but you have to be pretty observant to note these
            two bolts on removal! <o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Three
            years ago I had an issue with a new Borg&amp;Beck clutch
            plate and had my g’box in and out 3 times, so I know how you
            are feeling, but something is wrong and you need to get it
            right.  When it is together again, bolt the driver’s seat
            back in and test drive it before putting the rest of the
            interior in; it saves a bit of work if there is a problem.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Lastly,
            don’t cut the head of the top slave cylinder bolt.  I can
            guarantee you that if this was acceptable engineering
            practice the accountants at the factory would have insisted
            it be done.  The slave cylinder needs to be securely
            fastened to the bell housing and one bolt is not
            sufficient.  I have probably had mine off 4, maybe 5 times
            in 45 years of ownership, so if it takes me an extra 10
            minutes to remove, so what?  If extracting inaccessible
            bolts is a big issue, don’t buy an English car!  (I just had
            to re&amp;re the rear drain pipe from the intake manifold –
            that is another fun one!).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Good
            luck! Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <div style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1
          1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm">
          <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
              lang="EN-US"> Healeys &lt;<a
                href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
              <b>On Behalf Of </b>richard mayor via Healeys<br>
              <b>Sent:</b> September 19, 2021 7:52 PM<br>
              <b>To:</b> Michael Oritt &lt;<a
                href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
              <b>Cc:</b> Healeys &lt;<a
                href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
              <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] New clutch query<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal">My first thought was that if you were
              having to force the gearbox when it was 3 to 4 inches away
              from home, it may be the spines in the clutch disc and the
              input shaft were causing some interference.  This should
              have been an easy slip fit.  Did you lubricate the
              spines?  Test fit the disc on the input shaft?  
              Installing a gearbox should not be a tedious affair.  Or,
              you did not get the disc properly aligned using the little
              plastic tool.  There is a lot of wiggle room for error.  
              I've found that an old input shaft works better than the
              plastic ones for getting good alignment.   <o:p></o:p></p>
          </div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
          </div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal">That brings me to my next observation. 
              If for some reason the clutch disc is hanging up on the
              input shaft it will not disengage as smoothly as it
              should.  Is this your problem?  It's not clear to me what
              you mean when you say "difficult clutch".<o:p></o:p></p>
          </div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
          </div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal">I  have never heard of any need to
              break-in a clutch.<o:p></o:p></p>
          </div>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal">On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 2:15 PM Michael
              Oritt via Healeys &lt;<a
                href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
              wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
          </div>
          <blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC
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            <div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#3333FF">Simon--<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#3333FF"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#3333FF">I cut
                    the head off one bolt to make it easier to R&amp;R
                    the secondary cylinder. I also fashioned a small
                    door in the extension panel to give access to the
                    bleed nipple from inside rather than only under the
                    car.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#3333FF"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#3333FF">Best--Michael
                    Oritt<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              </div>
            </div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
            <div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal">On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 4:23 PM
                  Simon Lachlan via Healeys &lt;<a
                    href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank"
                    moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                  wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
              </div>
              <blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC
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                  <div>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"
                      style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
                        lang="EN-GB">You’ll recall the Overdrive saga.
                        Have decided not to commission  a TV mini-series
                        per someone’s advice.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"
                      style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
                        lang="EN-GB">1) The overdrive is in and works
                        very well. I haven’t tested the pressure yet – I
                        will – but it clicks in and out very briskly.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"
                      style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
                        lang="EN-GB">2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard
                        to get the old bits off until I borrowed that
                        magic tool. Used the black nylon(?) tool from
                        AHSpares as so much handier than the spare
                        original shaft. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"
                      style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
                        lang="EN-GB">3) Putting the gearbox back in was
                        pretty tedious. It would go in all the way
                        except for the last 3 or 4 inches. Took it out
                        again and checked the alignment was 100% which
                        it was. Put it back in, pushed, shoved and
                        cursed. In the end we wound it on with long
                        threaded bolts. I don’t want to put in another
                        clutch. Ever.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"
                      style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
                        lang="EN-GB">4) Now, finally, the QUESTIONS:-<o:p></o:p></span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"
                      style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
                        lang="EN-GB">Initially, getting the car into any
                        gear was very graunchy and really the car would
                        have been undriveable. Pedal pressure felt the
                        same as before but nothing was happening except
                        expensive noise. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"
                      style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
                        lang="EN-GB">Although there was no evidence of a
                        loss of fluid – why would there be? – I bled the
                        clutch. I have fitted the extension tube so it
                        wasn’t tricky. That did make a difference but
                        not to the way it was previously.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"
                      style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
                        lang="EN-GB">So (1) Is it normal for clutches to
                        be difficult at first? A sort of “breaking-in”
                        period??<o:p></o:p></span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"
                      style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
                        lang="EN-GB">(2) I’ll bleed it again but am
                        drawn to getting a longer push rod for the slave
                        cylinder. Does that make sense? I do have to
                        push the pedal down pretty far. Comments?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"
                      style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
                        lang="EN-GB">(3) Slightly off topic……digging
                        around in my files, I saw a suggestion to cut
                        the head off the top bolt that locates the slave
                        cylinder. Then to Loctite in permanently for use
                        as a dowel peg. ie that bolt is a bit of a PITA
                        and one bolt would suffice. Wouldn’t it?? <o:p></o:p></span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"
                      style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
                        lang="EN-GB">All advice would be very welcome,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"
                      style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
                        lang="EN-GB">Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p>
                    <p class="MsoNormal"
                      style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
                        lang="EN-GB"> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2021 09:29:49 -0400

--===============3486923321284588690==

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I don't know if Mirek's Rey went to the list or just a few of us but he
makes the excellent  point that once oriented correctly the gearbox should
snug up to the rear plate pretty easily and one definitely should not need
to use 3" bolts to pull the gearbox into place.

This suggests that either the pilot bushing was in some way damaged during
earlier removal of the transmission  or that the input shaft is of
different pattern or dimensions than its predecessor.  Please do not ask
how I know....

Best-Michael Oritt

  a TV
 pressure
so
e
ed.
 to put in
e
but
ere be? =E2=80=93
 tricky.
d for the
w a suggestion to
a
>> All advice would be very welcome,

--00000000000027125d05cc6d473b
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<div dir=3D"auto">I don&#39;t know if Mirek&#39;s Rey went to the list or j=
ust a few of us but he makes the excellent=C2=A0 point that once oriented c=
orrectly the gearbox should snug up to the rear plate pretty easily and one=
 definitely should not need=C2=A0 to use 3&quot; bolts to pull the gearbox =
into place.=C2=A0=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">This s=
uggests that either the pilot bushing was in some way damaged during earlie=
r removal of the transmission=C2=A0 or that the input shaft is of different=
 pattern or dimensions than its predecessor.=C2=A0 Please do not ask how I =
know....</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Best-Michael Or=
itt=C2=A0</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Sep 19, 2021, 9:49 PM Bob Spidell via Healeys &lt;<=
a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wro=
te:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;b=
order-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    A couple random thoughts:<br>
    <br>
    - do the special (read: expensive) &#39;dowel bolts&#39; make a differe=
nce
    on installation? Anyone know the real purpose of these?<br>
    <br>
    - what shape is your clutch M/C in? <br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div>On 9/19/2021 2:15 PM, Michael Oritt via
      Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div dir=3D"ltr">
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Simon--</div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br>
        </div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">I cut the head
          off one bolt to make it easier to R&amp;R the secondary
          cylinder. I also fashioned a small door in the=C2=A0extension=C2=
=A0panel
          to give access to the bleed nipple from inside rather than
          only under the car.</div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br>
        </div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Best--Michael
          Oritt</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class=3D"gmail_quote">
        <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 4:23
          PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.=
team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>&g=
t;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div lang=3D"EN-GB">
            <div>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">You=E2=80=99ll recall the Overdrive sa=
ga.
                Have decided not to commission=C2=A0 a TV mini-series per
                someone=E2=80=99s advice.</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">1) The overdrive is in and works very
                well. I haven=E2=80=99t tested the pressure yet =E2=80=93 I=
 will =E2=80=93 but
                it clicks in and out very briskly.</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">2) The new clutch kit is in. Hard to
                get the old bits off until I borrowed that magic tool.
                Used the black nylon(?) tool from AHSpares as so much
                handier than the spare original shaft. </p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">3) Putting the gearbox back in was
                pretty tedious. It would go in all the way except for
                the last 3 or 4 inches. Took it out again and checked
                the alignment was 100% which it was. Put it back in,
                pushed, shoved and cursed. In the end we wound it on
                with long threaded bolts. I don=E2=80=99t want to put in an=
other
                clutch. Ever.</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">4) Now, finally, the QUESTIONS:-</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">Initially, getting the car into any
                gear was very graunchy and really the car would have
                been undriveable. Pedal pressure felt the same as before
                but nothing was happening except expensive noise. </p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">Although there was no evidence of a
                loss of fluid =E2=80=93 why would there be? =E2=80=93 I ble=
d the clutch.
                I have fitted the extension tube so it wasn=E2=80=99t trick=
y.
                That did make a difference but not to the way it was
                previously.</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">So (1) Is it normal for clutches to
                be difficult at first? A sort of =E2=80=9Cbreaking-in=E2=80=
=9D period??</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">(2) I=E2=80=99ll bleed it again but am=
 drawn
                to getting a longer push rod for the slave cylinder.
                Does that make sense? I do have to push the pedal down
                pretty far. Comments?</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">(3) Slightly off topic=E2=80=A6=E2=80=
=A6digging
                around in my files, I saw a suggestion to cut the head
                off the top bolt that locates the slave cylinder. Then
                to Loctite in permanently for use as a dowel peg. ie
                that bolt is a bit of a PITA and one bolt would suffice.
                Wouldn=E2=80=99t it?? </p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">All advice would be very welcome,</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">Simon</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
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