Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps

From: Michael Salter via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 08:57:30 -0500

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After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to
look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all
the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a
considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting
a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.

On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need
> broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be
> screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like
> the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild
> original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
> TY, Shawn
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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<div dir=3D"auto">After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water p=
umps I decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed b=
earings.<div dir=3D"auto">I have some concerns about the small size of the =
annulus through which all the coolant must pass in the original design so I=
 have managed to install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics attache=
d.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">After bench testing one of the prototypes i=
s now fitted to my car awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.</=
div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_at=
tr">On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, &lt;<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockq=
uote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc =
solid;padding-left:1ex">

<div>
<div>What&#39;s the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and =
need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be=
 screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks lik=
e the standard has threads and not the
 uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?</=
div>
<div>TY, Shawn</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
=C2=A0<br>
&quot;Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a tes=
t drive.&quot;<br>
</div>
</div>

_______________________________________________<br>
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_______________________________________________

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From: S and T Miller via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 15:16:48 +0000

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That is awesome.  Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one I ever pu=
lled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contain the bear=
ing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still use that sea=
l?

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test dri=
ve."
________________________________
From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM
To: S and T Miller <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps

After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to =
look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all =
the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a=
 considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting =
a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.

On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <healeys@auto=
What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need brok=
en in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be screwed =
into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like the sta=
ndard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild original=
?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
TY, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test dri=
ve."
_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e

[email-masked]

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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii"=
</head>
<body>
<div>That is awesome.&nbsp; Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one=
 I ever pulled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contai=
n the bearing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still us=
e that seal?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
&nbsp;<br>
&quot;Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a tes=
t drive.&quot;<br>
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Michael Salter &lt;mi=
[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> S and T Miller &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> [email-masked] &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto">After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water p=
umps I decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed b=
earings.
<div dir=3D"auto">I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus =
through which all the coolant must pass in the original design so I have ma=
naged to install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.&nbsp;=
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted t=
o my car awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_attr">On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S=
 and T Miller via Healeys, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" re=
l=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"x_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex; border-left=
:1px #ccc solid; padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<div>What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need=
 broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be scr=
ewed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like th=
e standard has threads and not the
 uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?</=
div>
<div>TY, Shawn</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
&nbsp;<br>
&quot;Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a tes=
t drive.&quot;<br>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/=
archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" tar=
get=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer nore=
ferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aut=
ox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
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s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferr=
er noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><b=
r>
<br>
</blockquote>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Michael Salter via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 11:10:47 -0500

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No I left the seal out but left the holder to maintain the bearing spacing.
On one of the others I  deleted the holder and turned up a longer bearing
spacer to compensate for the additional space.

M

On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 10:16 a.m. S and T Miller, <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> That is awesome.  Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one I ever
> pulled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contain the
> bearing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still use that
> seal?
>
>
> The Millers
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM
> *To:* S and T Miller <[email-masked]>
> *Cc:* [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>

--0000000000003ca5fe05bce0725c
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<div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">No I left the seal=
 out but left the holder to maintain the bearing spacing.=C2=A0</span><div =
dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">On one of the others I=
=C2=A0 deleted the holder and turned up a longer bearing spacer to compensa=
te for the additional space.</span></div><div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"f=
ont-family:sans-serif"><br></span></div><div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"fo=
nt-family:sans-serif">M</span></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 10:16 a.m. S and=
 T Miller, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">stmiller96@hotmail=
.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"mar=
gin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">

<div>
<div>That is awesome.=C2=A0 Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one=
 I ever pulled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contai=
n the bearing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still us=
e that seal?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
=C2=A0<br>
&quot;Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a tes=
t drive.&quot;<br>
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"m_-4944801310279495412divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"C=
alibri, sans-serif" style=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b>=
 Michael Salter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_b=
lank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> S and T Miller &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" tar=
get=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a> &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@au=
tox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</=
a>&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps</font>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto">After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water p=
umps I decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed b=
earings.
<div dir=3D"auto">I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus =
through which all the coolant must pass in the original design so I have ma=
naged to install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.=C2=A0=
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted t=
o my car awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Heale=
ys, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer norefer=
rer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;=
 wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-l=
eft:1ex">
<div>
<div>What&#39;s the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and =
need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be=
 screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks lik=
e the standard has threads and not the
 uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?</=
div>
<div>TY, Shawn</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
=C2=A0<br>
&quot;Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a tes=
t drive.&quot;<br>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blan=
k">
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"=
http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/=
archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer nore=
ferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer nore=
ferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><=
br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"=
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
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s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferr=
er noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><b=
r>
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</blockquote>
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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 08:42:26 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a 
very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford 
stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was 
(essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I 
use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the 
radiator. The spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting 
coolant flow through the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket 
fixes and my friend, after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, 
etc. installed both a better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered 
spacer. Attached pic is not of the spacer he used--I can't find the link 
to it--but it shows the general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the 
cooling system to block flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove 
it). It appears this approach has improved cooling, though the engine 
probably still gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle. Link is to 
one of the improved pumps:

https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/

Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my 
BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their 
pumps have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate 
seems pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an 
uprated radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still 
hampered; at least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an 
option as, of course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be 
improved upon, and it would be a major task to increase both the 
cavity's size and the pump (but I can dream).

ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big 
of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little 
airflow. But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and 
the engine not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the 
same problem.

Bob

On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
> After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I 
> decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed 
> bearings.
> I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which 
> all the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to 
> install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
> After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car 
> awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.
>
> On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, 
>
>     What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and
>     need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass
>     tap can be screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it
>     actually looks like the standard has threads and not the uprated.
>     Can anyone confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
>     TY, Shawn
>
>     The Millers
>
>     "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a
>     test drive."
>

--------------AEA3284AFDDBCCE294392507
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have
    a very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When
    Ford stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the
    engine was (essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so they
    'engineered'--I use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the
    fan closer to the radiator. The spacer had the added 'benefit' of
    severely limiting coolant flow through the pump and radiator; there
    are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after doing the usual
    radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better pump
    (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of
    the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the
    general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to
    block flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears
    this approach has improved cooling, though the engine probably still
    gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the
    improved pumps:<br>
    <br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/">https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/</a><br>
    <br>
    Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp.
    on my BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on
    Healeys. Their pumps have very small vanes, and the cavity in which
    the vanes operate seems pretty small for such a large lump of cast
    iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiator core won't help much if the
    coolant flow is still hampered; at least, that's what I've found).
    This is probably not an option as, of course, our engines don't have
    a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a major task
    to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I can dream).<br>
    <br>
    ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too
    big of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too
    little airflow. But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by
    comparison--and the engine not terribly larger in displacement--and
    still suffers the same problem.<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via
      Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="auto">After a couple of premature failures of repro 100
        water pumps I decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern
        seal and sealed bearings.
        <div dir="auto">I have some concerns about the small size of the
          annulus through which all the coolant must pass in the
          original design so I have managed to install a considerably
          smaller seal as in the pics attached. </div>
        <div dir="auto">After bench testing one of the prototypes is now
          fitted to my car awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is
          gone.</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13
          p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, &lt;<a
            href="mailto:[email-masked]" rel="noreferrer
            noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank"
            moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
          .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
          <div>
            <div>What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear
              they leak and need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good?
              Moss states the brass tap can be screwed into the uprated
              pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like the
              standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone
              confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?</div>
            <div>TY, Shawn</div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>The Millers<br>
               <br>
              "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique
              car is a test drive."<br>
            </div>
          </div>
          <br>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

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[email-masked]

--------------3FF60CD12BB16F2AA20CB8E8--

---

From: Michael Salter via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 12:20:24 -0500

--===============7271292762695616491==

--0000000000003705c005bce16bae

Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the
cooling system not being "large" enough.
My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the
100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they
really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.
I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley
about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water
pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.

M

M

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:

> I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very
> similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the
> 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too
> short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term
> loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The
> spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through
> the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend,
> after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a
> better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not
> of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the
> general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block
> flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach
> has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has
> to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
>
>
> BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps
> have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems
> pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated
> radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at
> least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of
> course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
> would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but
> I can dream).
>
> ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of
> an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow.
> But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
> not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
>
> Bob
>

--0000000000003705c005bce16bae
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><sp=
an style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">Yes Bob, there is something wrong=
 with our assumptions regarding the cooling system not being &quot;large&qu=
ot; enough. <br></span></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-siz=
e:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">My wifes Maxima is ar=
ound 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the 100. Certainly it has a=
 couple of very effective electric fans but they really don&#39;t cut in ve=
ry often unless you have the AC on.</span></div><div class=3D"gmail_default=
" style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">I&=
#39;m suspicious of the rate of circulation but I&#39;ve talked to Larry Va=
rley about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the wa=
ter pump annular orifice didn&#39;t make much difference when he tried it.<=
/span></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><span st=
yle=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif"><br></span></div><div class=3D"gmail_d=
efault" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><spa=
n style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">M</span><br></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"=
><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,=
sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"=
><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob =
Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a=
>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px=
 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    I sold my late father&#39;s 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have
    a very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When
    Ford stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the
    engine was (essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so they
    &#39;engineered&#39;--I use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to mov=
e the
    fan closer to the radiator. The spacer had the added &#39;benefit&#39; =
of
    severely limiting coolant flow through the pump and radiator; there
    are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after doing the usual
    radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better pump
    (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of
    the spacer he used--I can&#39;t find the link to it--but it shows the
    general idea (Ford basically put a &#39;dam&#39; in the cooling system =
to
    block flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears
    this approach has improved cooling, though the engine probably still
    gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the
    improved pumps:<br>
    <br>
<a href=3D"https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Outp=
ut-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/" target=3D"_blank">https://www.classictbir=
d.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/</=
a><br>
    <br>
    Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp.
    on my BJ8, I&#39;ve wondered if a similar approach would work on
    Healeys. Their pumps have very small vanes, and the cavity in which
    the vanes operate seems pretty small for such a large lump of cast
    iron (I&#39;m guessing an uprated radiator core won&#39;t help much if =
the
    coolant flow is still hampered; at least, that&#39;s what I&#39;ve foun=
d).
    This is probably not an option as, of course, our engines don&#39;t hav=
e
    a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a major task
    to increase both the cavity&#39;s size and the pump (but I can dream).<=
br>
    <br>
    ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too
    big of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too
    little airflow. But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by
    comparison--and the engine not terribly larger in displacement--and
    still suffers the same problem.<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <div>On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via
      Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div dir=3D"auto">After a couple of premature failures of repro 100
        water pumps I decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern
        seal and sealed bearings.
        <div dir=3D"auto">I have some concerns about the small size of the
          annulus through which all the coolant must pass in the
          original design so I have managed to install a considerably
          smaller seal as in the pics attached.=C2=A0</div>
        <div dir=3D"auto">After bench testing one of the prototypes is now
          fitted to my car awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is
          gone.</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class=3D"gmail_quote">
        <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13
          p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@au=
tox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer
            noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div>
            <div>What&#39;s the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear
              they leak and need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good?
              Moss states the brass tap can be screwed into the uprated
              pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like the
              standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone
              confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?</div>
            <div>TY, Shawn</div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>The Millers<br>
              =C2=A0<br>
              &quot;Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antiqu=
e
              car is a test drive.&quot;<br>
            </div>
          </div>
          <br>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </div>

_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"h=
ttp://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://a=
utox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
eam.net</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

--===============7271292762695616491==--

---

From: S and T Miller via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 19:35:36 +0000

--===============0246092128352565152==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_BL0PR04MB4881F22A107AC5DD3FFCB3D5D4959BL0PR04MB4881namp_"

--_000_BL0PR04MB4881F22A107AC5DD3FFCB3D5D4959BL0PR04MB4881namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Looking forward to hearing your results of using it, in the car. What is th=
e original seal material made of?  It's not metallic, and feels like plasti=
c or really hard rubber. I was thinking using valve lapping paste could rec=
ondition the mating surfaces that isn't too far gone?

The Millers

Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 11:10 AM

No I left the seal out but left the holder to maintain the bearing spacing.
On one of the others I  deleted the holder and turned up a longer bearing s=
pacer to compensate for the additional space.

M

On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 10:16 a.m. S and T Miller, <[email-masked]<m=
ailto:[email-masked]>> wrote:
That is awesome.  Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one I ever pu=
lled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contain the bear=
ing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still use that sea=
l?

The Millers

m>>

The Millers

[email-masked]

--_000_BL0PR04MB4881F22A107AC5DD3FFCB3D5D4959BL0PR04MB4881namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
</head>
<body>
<div>Looking forward to hearing your results of using it, in the car. What =
is the original seal material made of?&nbsp; It's not metallic, and feels l=
ike plastic or really hard rubber. I was thinking using valve lapping paste=
 could recondition the mating surfaces
 that isn't too far gone?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
&nbsp;<br>
&quot;Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a tes=
t drive.&quot;<br>
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Michael Salter &lt;mi=
[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, March 6, 2021 11:10 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> S and T Miller &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> [email-masked] &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">No I left the seal=
 out but left the holder to maintain the bearing spacing.&nbsp;</span>
<div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">On one of the othe=
rs I&nbsp; deleted the holder and turned up a longer bearing spacer to comp=
ensate for the additional space.</span></div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif"><br>
</span></div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">M</span></div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_attr">On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 10:16 a.m. S=
 and T Miller, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">stmiller96@hot=
mail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"x_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex; border-left=
:1px #ccc solid; padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<div>That is awesome.&nbsp; Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one=
 I ever pulled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contai=
n the bearing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still us=
e that seal?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
&nbsp;<br>
&quot;Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a tes=
t drive.&quot;<br>
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"x_m_-4944801310279495412divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D=
"Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</=
b> Michael Salter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"=
_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> S and T Miller &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" tar=
get=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer">
[email-masked]</a> &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" ta=
rget=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto">After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water p=
umps I decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed b=
earings.
<div dir=3D"auto">I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus =
through which all the coolant must pass in the original design so I have ma=
naged to install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.&nbsp;=
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted t=
o my car awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Heale=
ys, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer norefer=
rer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;=
 wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex; border-left:1px #ccc solid; padding=
-left:1ex">
<div>
<div>What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need=
 broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be scr=
ewed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like th=
e standard has threads and not the
 uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?</=
div>
<div>TY, Shawn</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
&nbsp;<br>
&quot;Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a tes=
t drive.&quot;<br>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blan=
k">
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"=
<br>

--_000_BL0PR04MB4881F22A107AC5DD3FFCB3D5D4959BL0PR04MB4881namp_--

--===============0246092128352565152==
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[email-masked]

--===============0246092128352565152==--

---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 14:59:18 -0500

--0000000000007aeac405bce3a3cf

--0000000000007aeac205bce3a3cd

There are 3 main parts to the original seal system. Photo attached.
The hard thing to find is the seal diaphragm.
The sealing medium itself is a carbon block which runs directly against a
face of the cast iron body casting. The carbon block is located in a bronze
"holder" on top of the diaphragm seal.
The bronze holder is driven by splines on the impellor which wear badly in
use.
I have successfully rebuilt a number of lower mileage originals but parts
are really hard to find these days.
M

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 2:35 PM S and T Miller <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> Looking forward to hearing your results of using it, in the car. What is
> the original seal material made of?  It's not metallic, and feels like
> plastic or really hard rubber. I was thinking using valve lapping paste
> could recondition the mating surfaces that isn't too far gone?
>
>
> The Millers
>
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 11:10 AM

--0000000000007aeac205bce3a3cd
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><sp=
an style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">There are 3 main parts to the ori=
ginal seal system. Photo attached. <br></span></div><div class=3D"gmail_def=
ault" style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif=
">The hard thing to find is the seal diaphragm. <br></span></div><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:ari=
al,sans-serif">The sealing medium itself is a carbon block which runs direc=
tly against a face of the cast iron body casting. The carbon block is locat=
ed in a bronze &quot;holder&quot; on top of the diaphragm seal.</span></div=
><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font=
-family:arial,sans-serif">The bronze holder is driven by splines on the imp=
ellor which wear badly in use. <br></span></div><div class=3D"gmail_default=
" style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">I =
have successfully rebuilt a number of lower mileage originals but parts are=
 really hard to find these days.<br></span></div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><span sty=
le=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">M</span><br></div></div><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 =
at 2:35 PM S and T Miller &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">stm=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quot=
e" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204)=
;padding-left:1ex">

<div>
<div>Looking forward to hearing your results of using it, in the car. What =
is the original seal material made of?=C2=A0 It&#39;s not metallic, and fee=
ls like plastic or really hard rubber. I was thinking using valve lapping p=
aste could recondition the mating surfaces
 that isn&#39;t too far gone?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
=C2=A0<br>
&quot;Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a tes=
t drive.&quot;<br>
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"gmail-m_-6352685176892860145divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font sty=
le=3D"font-size:11pt" face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000"><b>Fro=
m:</b> Michael Salter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, March 6, 2021 11:10 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> S and T Miller &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" tar=
get=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">heal=
[email-masked]</a> &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps</font>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">No I left the seal=
 out but left the holder to maintain the bearing spacing.=C2=A0</span>
<div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">On one of the othe=
rs I=C2=A0 deleted the holder and turned up a longer bearing spacer to comp=
ensate for the additional space.</span></div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif"><br>
</span></div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">M</span></div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 10:16 a.m. S and T Miller, &lt;<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">stmiller96@hotmail.=
com</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<div>That is awesome.=C2=A0 Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one=
 I ever pulled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contai=
n the bearing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still us=
e that seal?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
=C2=A0<br>
&quot;Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a tes=
t drive.&quot;<br>
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"gmail-m_-6352685176892860145x_m_-4944801310279495412divRplyFwdMs=
g" dir=3D"ltr"><font style=3D"font-size:11pt" face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" =
color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Michael Salter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:michael=
[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.=
com</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> S and T Miller &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=
=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" tar=
get=3D"_blank">
[email-masked]</a> &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" re=
l=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps</font>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto">After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water p=
umps I decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed b=
earings.
<div dir=3D"auto">I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus =
through which all the coolant must pass in the original design so I have ma=
naged to install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.=C2=A0=
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted t=
o my car awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Heale=
ys, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer norefer=
rer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;=
 wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<div>What&#39;s the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and =
need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be=
 screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks lik=
e the standard has threads and not the
 uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?</=
div>
<div>TY, Shawn</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
=C2=A0<br>
&quot;Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a tes=
t drive.&quot;<br>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blan=
k">
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"=
<br>

</blockquote></div>

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
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[email-masked]

--0000000000007aeac405bce3a3cf--

---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 15:01:35 -0500

--000000000000a67d9805bce3ab52

--000000000000a67d9505bce3ab50

Titled pic

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 2:59 PM Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
wrote:

>> After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided
>> to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.

--000000000000a67d9505bce3ab50
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-ser=
if">Titled pic</span></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-famil=
y:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:aria=
l,sans-serif"></span><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div di=
r=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 2:59 PM Michael Salte=
r &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a=
>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px=
 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><di=
v dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><span =
style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">There are 3 main parts to the origin=
al seal system. Photo attached. <br></span></div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t" style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">T=
he hard thing to find is the seal diaphragm. <br></span></div><div class=3D=
"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,=
sans-serif">The sealing medium itself is a carbon block which runs directly=
 against a face of the cast iron body casting. The carbon block is located =
in a bronze &quot;holder&quot; on top of the diaphragm seal.</span></div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-fa=
mily:arial,sans-serif">The bronze holder is driven by splines on the impell=
or which wear badly in use. <br></span></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" s=
tyle=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">I hav=
e successfully rebuilt a number of lower mileage originals but parts are re=
ally hard to find these days.<br></span></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" =
style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><span style=
=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">M</span><br></div></div><br><div class=3D=
"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at =
2:35 PM S and T Miller &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote clas=
s=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid r=
gb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">

<div>
<div id=3D"gmail-m_-4431128790876303802gmail-m_-6352685176892860145divRplyF=
wdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font style=3D"font-size:11pt" face=3D"Calibri, sans-ser=
if" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Michael Salter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mic=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<div id=3D"gmail-m_-4431128790876303802gmail-m_-6352685176892860145x_m_-494=
4801310279495412divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font style=3D"font-size:11pt" f=
ace=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Michael Salter &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"=
_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<br>

</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>

--000000000000a67d9505bce3ab50--

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--000000000000a67d9805bce3ab52
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[email-masked]

--000000000000a67d9805bce3ab52--

---

From: healeyguy--- via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 20:06:52 +0000 (UTC)

--===============4813160673129883732==
	boundary="----=_Part_710385_2017932142.1615061212192"

------=_Part_710385_2017932142.1615061212192
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

GentlemenInteresting discussion but one of the items that we really have to=
 compare is the CFM of the radiator fan on the cars we are talking about.=
=C2=A0 The 1955 T Bird uses, if I recall correctly a relatively small diame=
ter three bladed fan. The stock 100 4 blade aluminum fan does not push much=
 air either. Someone can run the numbers for a 4 blade, 15 inch diameter, 1=
 inch pitch blade and get the CFM at idle, 1000 and 2500 (fan) RPM and get =
a reasonable idea of the 100's fans ability to move air. Couple that with t=
he lack of fan shrouding at the radiator and the numbers are even worse.=C2=
=A0 CFM is a big part of this issue. I would be surprised if we get 1000 CF=
M at cruising (2500 RPM).=C2=A0 Imagine what idle is like.....at least whil=
e cruising the air flow is increased do to the car moving forward.=C2=A0I'm=
 not a mechanical engineer so some of you ME's can jump in here.. Can't hur=
t my feelings because I've been wrong many times before.....Perry

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter via Healeys <[email-masked]>
To: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 12:20 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps

Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the coolin=
g system not being "large" enough.=20
My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the 10=
0. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they reall=
y don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.I'm suspicious of the r=
ate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley about this subject and h=
e indicated that increasing the size of the water pump annular orifice didn=
't make much difference when he tried it.
M

M

  I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a ver=
y similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed t=
he 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) t=
oo short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term loos=
ely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The spacer =
had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through the pump =
and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after doing t=
he usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better pump (l=
arger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of the spacer =
he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the general idea (Ford b=
asically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block flow, and the improved =
spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach has improved cooling, t=
hough the engine probably still gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle=
. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
=20
https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-ca=
r/productinfo/8501HO/
=20
 Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my B=
J8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps =
have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems pret=
ty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiat=
or core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at least, th=
at's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of course, our en=
gines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a ma=
jor task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I can dream).
=20
 ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of=
 an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow. B=
ut, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine n=
ot terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
=20
 Bob
=20
 On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
 =20
 After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to=
 look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings. I have s=
ome concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all the cool=
ant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a conside=
rably smaller seal as in the pics attached.=C2=A0 After bench testing one o=
f the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting a test drive as soon as t=
he snow is gone. =20
  On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <healeys@au=
tox.team.net> wrote:
 =20
  What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need br=
oken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be screwe=
d into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like the s=
tandard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild origin=
al?Thoughts/ advice welcomed? TY, Shawn=20
  The Millers
 =C2=A0
 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test dr=
ive."
  =20
=20
 =20
=20
 _______________________________________________

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

@aol.com

------=_Part_710385_2017932142.1615061212192
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div style=3D"color:black;font: 10pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div>Gentlemen</div>
Interesting discussion but one of the items that we really have to compare =
is the CFM of the radiator fan on the cars we are talking about.&nbsp; The =
1955 T Bird uses, if I recall correctly a relatively small diameter three b=
laded fan. The stock 100 4 blade aluminum fan does not push much air either=
. Someone can run the numbers for a 4 blade, 15 inch diameter, 1 inch pitch=
 blade and get the CFM at idle, 1000 and 2500 (fan) RPM and get a reasonabl=
e idea of the 100's fans ability to move air. Couple that with the lack of =
fan shrouding at the radiator and the numbers are even worse.&nbsp; CFM is =
a big part of this issue. I would be surprised if we get 1000 CFM at cruisi=
ng (2500 RPM).&nbsp; Imagine what idle is like.....at least while cruising =
the air flow is increased do to the car moving forward.&nbsp;
<div>I'm not a mechanical engineer so some of you ME's can jump in here.. C=
an't hurt my feelings because I've been wrong many times before.....</div>

<div>Perry<br>
<br>
<br>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font=
 size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Michael Salter via Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: Bob Spidell &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Cc: [email-masked] &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 12:20 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps<br>
<br>

<div id=3D"yiv1213687328">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"yiv1213687328gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small;"><span =
style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;">Yes Bob, there is something wrong =
with our assumptions regarding the cooling system not being "large" enough.=
 <br clear=3D"none"></span></div>

<div class=3D"yiv1213687328gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small;"><span =
style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;">My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP a=
nd the radiator has less area than the 100. Certainly it has a couple of ve=
ry effective electric fans but they really don't cut in very often unless y=
ou have the AC on.</span></div>

<div class=3D"yiv1213687328gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small;"><span =
style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;">I'm suspicious of the rate of circ=
ulation but I've talked to Larry Varley about this subject and he indicated=
 that increasing the size of the water pump annular orifice didn't make muc=
h difference when he tried it.</span></div>

<div class=3D"yiv1213687328gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small;"><span =
style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;"><br clear=3D"none"></span></div>

<div class=3D"yiv1213687328gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans m=
s, sans-serif;font-size:small;"><span style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-seri=
f;">M</span><br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div class=3D"yiv1213687328gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans m=
s, sans-serif;font-size:small;"><br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div class=3D"yiv1213687328gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans m=
s, sans-serif;font-size:small;">M<br clear=3D"none"></div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv1213687328gmail_quote">
<div class=3D"yiv1213687328yqt0603033562" id=3D"yiv1213687328yqt27841">
<div class=3D"yiv1213687328gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 1=
1:42 AM Bob Spidell &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"re=
ct" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailt=
o:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"non=
e"></div>
<blockquote class=3D"yiv1213687328gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px =
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
 =20
   =20
 =20
 =20
<div>
    I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have
    a very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When
    Ford stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the
    engine was (essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so they
    'engineered'--I use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the
    fan closer to the radiator. The spacer had the added 'benefit' of
    severely limiting coolant flow through the pump and radiator; there
    are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after doing the usual
    radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better pump
    (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of
    the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the
    general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to
    block flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears
    this approach has improved cooling, though the engine probably still
    gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the
    improved pumps:<br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" target=3D"_blank" hr=
ef=3D"https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-=
Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/">https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modifi=
ed-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/</a><br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp.
    on my BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on
    Healeys. Their pumps have very small vanes, and the cavity in which
    the vanes operate seems pretty small for such a large lump of cast
    iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiator core won't help much if the
    coolant flow is still hampered; at least, that's what I've found).
    This is probably not an option as, of course, our engines don't have
    a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a major task
    to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I can dream).<br c=
lear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too
    big of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too
    little airflow. But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by
    comparison--and the engine not terribly larger in displacement--and
    still suffers the same problem.<br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    Bob<br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
   =20
<div>On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via
      Healeys wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
    </div>

    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
     =20
<div>After a couple of premature failures of repro 100
        water pumps I decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern
        seal and sealed bearings.
       =20
<div>I have some concerns about the small size of the
          annulus through which all the coolant must pass in the
          original design so I have managed to install a considerably
          smaller seal as in the pics attached.&nbsp;</div>

       =20
<div>After bench testing one of the prototypes is now
          fitted to my car awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is
          gone.</div>

      </div>

      <br clear=3D"none">
     =20
<div class=3D"yiv1213687328gmail_quote">
       =20
<div class=3D"yiv1213687328gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 1=
1:13
          p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener =
noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</=
a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
        </div>

        <blockquote class=3D"yiv1213687328gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px =
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
         =20
<div>
           =20
<div>What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear
              they leak and need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good?
              Moss states the brass tap can be screwed into the uprated
              pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like the
              standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone
              confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?</div>

           =20
<div>TY, Shawn</div>

           =20
<div><br clear=3D"none">
            </div>

           =20
<div>The Millers<br clear=3D"none">
              &nbsp;<br clear=3D"none">
              "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique
              car is a test drive."<br clear=3D"none">
            </div>

          </div>

          <br clear=3D"none">
        </blockquote>
      </div>

    </blockquote>
    <br clear=3D"none">
  </div>

_______________________________________________<br clear=3D"none">
get=3D"_blank" href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net=
/donate.html</a><br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
Archive: <a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" target=3D"_=
blank" href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/p=
ipermail/healeys</a> <a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect"=
 target=3D"_blank" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team=
.net/archive</a><br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:He=
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et">[email-masked]</a><br clear=3D"none">
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------=_Part_710385_2017932142.1615061212192--

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[email-masked]

--===============4813160673129883732==--

---

From: Michael Salter via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 15:28:18 -0500

--===============6098900317663446986==

--0000000000004e135d05bce40bce

I think there is a lot to what you say Perry.
We have to remember that the 100 was designed and built in days where
traffic jams were relatively unusual and overheating while cruising is
pretty unusual.

M

On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 3:06 p.m. , <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Gentlemen
> Interesting discussion but one of the items that we really have to compare
> is the CFM of the radiator fan on the cars we are talking about.  The 1955
> T Bird uses, if I recall correctly a relatively small diameter three bladed
> fan. The stock 100 4 blade aluminum fan does not push much air either.
> Someone can run the numbers for a 4 blade, 15 inch diameter, 1 inch pitch
> blade and get the CFM at idle, 1000 and 2500 (fan) RPM and get a reasonable
> idea of the 100's fans ability to move air. Couple that with the lack of
> fan shrouding at the radiator and the numbers are even worse.  CFM is a big
> part of this issue. I would be surprised if we get 1000 CFM at cruising
> (2500 RPM).  Imagine what idle is like.....at least while cruising the air
> flow is increased do to the car moving forward.
> I'm not a mechanical engineer so some of you ME's can jump in here.. Can't
> hurt my feelings because I've been wrong many times before.....
> Perry
>
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--0000000000004e135d05bce40bce
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">I think there is a lot to what you say Perry.=C2=A0<div d=
ir=3D"auto">We have to remember that the 100 was designed and built in days=
 where traffic jams were relatively unusual and overheating while cruising =
is pretty unusual.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmai=
l_attr">On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 3:06 p.m. , &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeyguy@=
aol.com">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gma=
il_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-lef=
t:1ex">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:10pt Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<div>Gentlemen</div>
Interesting discussion but one of the items that we really have to compare =
is the CFM of the radiator fan on the cars we are talking about.=C2=A0 The =
1955 T Bird uses, if I recall correctly a relatively small diameter three b=
laded fan. The stock 100 4 blade aluminum fan does not push much air either=
. Someone can run the numbers for a 4 blade, 15 inch diameter, 1 inch pitch=
 blade and get the CFM at idle, 1000 and 2500 (fan) RPM and get a reasonabl=
e idea of the 100&#39;s fans ability to move air. Couple that with the lack=
 of fan shrouding at the radiator and the numbers are even worse.=C2=A0 CFM=
 is a big part of this issue. I would be surprised if we get 1000 CFM at cr=
uising (2500 RPM).=C2=A0 Imagine what idle is like.....at least while cruis=
ing the air flow is increased do to the car moving forward.=C2=A0
<div>I&#39;m not a mechanical engineer so some of you ME&#39;s can jump in =
here.. Can&#39;t hurt my feelings because I&#39;ve been wrong many times be=
fore.....</div>

<div>Perry<br>
<br>
<br>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font=
 size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Michael Salter via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
et" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
To: Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blan=
k" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
Cc: <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nore=
ferrer">[email-masked]</a> &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<b=
r>
Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 12:20 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps<br>
<br>

<div id=3D"m_-6299768627512294281yiv1213687328">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif"=
>Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the cooli=
ng system not being &quot;large&quot; enough. <br clear=3D"none"></span></d=
iv>

<div style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif"=
>My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the 1=
00. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they real=
ly don&#39;t cut in very often unless you have the AC on.</span></div>

<div style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif"=
>I&#39;m suspicious of the rate of circulation but I&#39;ve talked to Larry=
 Varley about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the=
 water pump annular orifice didn&#39;t make much difference when he tried i=
t.</span></div>

<div style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif"=
><br clear=3D"none"></span></div>

<div style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><span s=
tyle=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">M</span><br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br cle=
ar=3D"none"></div>

<div style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br cl=
ear=3D"none"></div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>
<div id=3D"m_-6299768627512294281yiv1213687328yqt27841">
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell &lt;<a rel=3D"=
nofollow noopener noreferrer noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:bspi=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br =
clear=3D"none"></div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
 =20
<div>
    I sold my late father&#39;s 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have
    a very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When
    Ford stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the
    engine was (essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so they
    &#39;engineered&#39;--I use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to mov=
e the
    fan closer to the radiator. The spacer had the added &#39;benefit&#39; =
of
    severely limiting coolant flow through the pump and radiator; there
    are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after doing the usual
    radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better pump
    (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of
    the spacer he used--I can&#39;t find the link to it--but it shows the
    general idea (Ford basically put a &#39;dam&#39; in the cooling system =
to
    block flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears
    this approach has improved cooling, though the engine probably still
    gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the
    improved pumps:<br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" href=3D"h=
ttps://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car=
/productinfo/8501HO/" target=3D"_blank">https://www.classictbird.com/Water-=
Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/</a><br clear=
=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp.
    on my BJ8, I&#39;ve wondered if a similar approach would work on
    Healeys. Their pumps have very small vanes, and the cavity in which
    the vanes operate seems pretty small for such a large lump of cast
    iron (I&#39;m guessing an uprated radiator core won&#39;t help much if =
the
    coolant flow is still hampered; at least, that&#39;s what I&#39;ve foun=
d).
    This is probably not an option as, of course, our engines don&#39;t hav=
e
    a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a major task
    to increase both the cavity&#39;s size and the pump (but I can dream).<=
br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too
    big of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too
    little airflow. But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by
    comparison--and the engine not terribly larger in displacement--and
    still suffers the same problem.<br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    Bob<br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
   =20
<div>On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via
      Healeys wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
    </div>

       =20

      </div>

      <br clear=3D"none">
     =20
<div>
       =20
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13
          p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener =
noreferrer noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none"=
        </div>

        <blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid=
 rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
         =20
<div>
           =20
<div>What&#39;s the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear
              they leak and need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good?
              Moss states the brass tap can be screwed into the uprated
              pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like the
              standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone
              confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?</div>

           =20
<div>TY, Shawn</div>

           =20
<div><br clear=3D"none">
            </div>

           =20
<div>The Millers<br clear=3D"none">
              =C2=A0<br clear=3D"none">
              &quot;Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antiqu=
e
              car is a test drive.&quot;<br clear=3D"none">
            </div>

          </div>

          <br clear=3D"none">
        </blockquote>
      </div>

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--0000000000004e135d05bce40bce--

--===============6098900317663446986==
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[email-masked]

--===============6098900317663446986==--

---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 16:15:53 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============7948378635084195877==
 boundary="------------6528791915E8C5119E90C153"
Content-Language: en-US

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------6528791915E8C5119E90C153
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

The single most effective thing I did to alleviate heat-up at idle was 
to install a Hayden 7-bladed stainless steel flex fan (part of a kit 
with a shroud the Nocks once sold). I just couldn't stand the noise it 
made, and the fact it blew dust up from the road.

On 3/6/2021 12:06 PM, [email-masked] wrote:
> Gentlemen
> Interesting discussion but one of the items that we really have to 
> compare is the CFM of the radiator fan on the cars we are talking 
> about.  The 1955 T Bird uses, if I recall correctly a relatively small 
> diameter three bladed fan. The stock 100 4 blade aluminum fan does not 
> push much air either. Someone can run the numbers for a 4 blade, 15 
> inch diameter, 1 inch pitch blade and get the CFM at idle, 1000 and 
> 2500 (fan) RPM and get a reasonable idea of the 100's fans ability to 
> move air. Couple that with the lack of fan shrouding at the radiator 
> and the numbers are even worse.  CFM is a big part of this issue. I 
> would be surprised if we get 1000 CFM at cruising (2500 RPM). Imagine 
> what idle is like.....at least while cruising the air flow is 
> increased do to the car moving forward.
> I'm not a mechanical engineer so some of you ME's can jump in here.. 
> Can't hurt my feelings because I've been wrong many times before.....
> Perry
>
>
> My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than 
> the 100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but 
> they really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.
> I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry 
> Varley about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of 
> the water pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he 
> tried it.
>
> M
>
> M
>
> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <[email-masked] 
>
>     I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars
>     have a very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle.
>     When Ford stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found
>     the engine was (essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so
>     they 'engineered'--I use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to
>     move the fan closer to the radiator. The spacer had the added
>     'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through the pump and
>     radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after
>     doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both
>     a better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached
>     pic is not of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but
>     it shows the general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the
>     cooling system to block flow, and the improved spacers mostly
>     remove it). It appears this approach has improved cooling, though
>     the engine probably still gets warm if it has to sit too long at
>     idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
>
>     <https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/>
>
>     Healeys. Their pumps have very small vanes, and the cavity in
>     which the vanes operate seems pretty small for such a large lump
>     of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiator core won't help
>     much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at least, that's what
>     I've found). This is probably not an option as, of course, our
>     engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
>     would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the
>     pump (but I can dream).
>
>     ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to
>     too big of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and
>     too little airflow. But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge
>     by comparison--and the engine not terribly larger in
>     displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
>
>     Bob
>
>>     decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and
>>     sealed bearings.
>>     I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through
>>     which all the coolant must pass in the original design so I have
>>     managed to install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics
>>     attached.
>>         What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak
>>         and need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states
>>         the brass tap can be screwed into the uprated pump, but from
>>         the pictures it actually looks like the standard has threads
>>         and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild
>>         "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car
>>         is a test drive."
>>
>
>

--------------6528791915E8C5119E90C153
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    The single most effective thing I did to alleviate heat-up at idle
    was to install a Hayden 7-bladed stainless steel flex fan (part of a
    kit with a shroud the Nocks once sold). I just couldn't stand the
    noise it made, and the fact it blew dust up from the road.<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/6/2021 12:06 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div style="color:black;font: 10pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
        <div>Gentlemen</div>
        Interesting discussion but one of the items that we really have
        to compare is the CFM of the radiator fan on the cars we are
        talking about.  The 1955 T Bird uses, if I recall correctly a
        relatively small diameter three bladed fan. The stock 100 4
        blade aluminum fan does not push much air either. Someone can
        run the numbers for a 4 blade, 15 inch diameter, 1 inch pitch
        blade and get the CFM at idle, 1000 and 2500 (fan) RPM and get a
        reasonable idea of the 100's fans ability to move air. Couple
        that with the lack of fan shrouding at the radiator and the
        numbers are even worse.  CFM is a big part of this issue. I
        would be surprised if we get 1000 CFM at cruising (2500 RPM). 
        Imagine what idle is like.....at least while cruising the air
        flow is increased do to the car moving forward. 
        <div>I'm not a mechanical engineer so some of you ME's can jump
          in here.. Can't hurt my feelings because I've been wrong many
          times before.....</div>
        <div>Perry<br>
          <br>
          <br>
          <div
            style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font
              size="2">-----Original Message-----<br>
              From: Michael Salter via Healeys
              <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
              To: Bob Spidell <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
              Cc: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
              Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 12:20 pm<br>
              Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps<br>
              <br>
              <div id="yiv1213687328">
                <div>
                  <div dir="ltr">
                    <div class="yiv1213687328gmail_default"
                      style="font-size:small;"><span
                        style="font-family:arial, sans-serif;">Yes Bob,
                        there is something wrong with our assumptions
                        regarding the cooling system not being "large"
                        enough. <br clear="none">
                      </span></div>
                    <div class="yiv1213687328gmail_default"
                      style="font-size:small;"><span
                        style="font-family:arial, sans-serif;">My wifes
                        Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has
                        less area than the 100. Certainly it has a
                        couple of very effective electric fans but they
                        really don't cut in very often unless you have
                        the AC on.</span></div>
                    <div class="yiv1213687328gmail_default"
                      style="font-size:small;"><span
                        style="font-family:arial, sans-serif;">I'm
                        suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've
                        talked to Larry Varley about this subject and he
                        indicated that increasing the size of the water
                        pump annular orifice didn't make much difference
                        when he tried it.</span></div>
                    <div class="yiv1213687328gmail_default"
                      style="font-size:small;"><span
                        style="font-family:arial, sans-serif;"><br
                          clear="none">
                      </span></div>
                    <div class="yiv1213687328gmail_default"
                      style="font-family:comic sans ms,
                      sans-serif;font-size:small;"><span
                        style="font-family:arial, sans-serif;">M</span><br
                        clear="none">
                    </div>
                    <div class="yiv1213687328gmail_default"
                      style="font-family:comic sans ms,
                      sans-serif;font-size:small;"><br clear="none">
                    </div>
                    <div class="yiv1213687328gmail_default"
                      style="font-family:comic sans ms,
                      sans-serif;font-size:small;">M<br clear="none">
                    </div>
                  </div>
                  <br clear="none">
                  <div class="yiv1213687328gmail_quote">
                    <div class="yiv1213687328yqt0603033562"
                      id="yiv1213687328yqt27841">
                      <div class="yiv1213687328gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On
                        Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell &lt;<a
                          rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer"
                          shape="rect"
                          ymailto="mailto:[email-masked]"
                          target="_blank"
                          href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                          moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                        wrote:<br clear="none">
                      </div>
                      <blockquote class="yiv1213687328gmail_quote"
                        style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px
                        solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
                        <div> I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird
                          to my BFF. These cars have a very similar
                          problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle.
                          When Ford stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the
                          T-Bird, they found the engine was
                          (essentially) too short for the long-hooded
                          car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term
                          loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan
                          closer to the radiator. The spacer had the
                          added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant
                          flow through the pump and radiator; there are
                          some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after
                          doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan,
                          etc. installed both a better pump (larger
                          vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached
                          pic is not of the spacer he used--I can't find
                          the link to it--but it shows the general idea
                          (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling
                          system to block flow, and the improved spacers
                          mostly remove it). It appears this approach
                          has improved cooling, though the engine
                          probably still gets warm if it has to sit too
                          long at idle. Link is to one of the improved
                          pumps:<br clear="none">
                          <br clear="none">
                          <a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer"
                            shape="rect" target="_blank"
href="https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/"
                            moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/</a><br
                            clear="none">
                          <br clear="none">
                          Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to
                          increase cooling, esp. on my BJ8, I've
                          wondered if a similar approach would work on
                          Healeys. Their pumps have very small vanes,
                          and the cavity in which the vanes operate
                          seems pretty small for such a large lump of
                          cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiator
                          core won't help much if the coolant flow is
                          still hampered; at least, that's what I've
                          found). This is probably not an option as, of
                          course, our engines don't have a similar
                          spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a
                          major task to increase both the cavity's size
                          and the pump (but I can dream).<br
                            clear="none">
                          <br clear="none">
                          ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is
                          usually attributed to too big of an engine in
                          too small of an engine compartment, and too
                          little airflow. But, the engine bay in an old
                          T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
                          not terribly larger in displacement--and still
                          suffers the same problem.<br clear="none">
                          <br clear="none">
                          Bob<br clear="none">
                          <br clear="none">
                          <div>On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via
                            Healeys wrote:<br clear="none">
                          </div>
                          <blockquote type="cite">
                            <div>After a couple of premature failures of
                              repro 100 water pumps I decided to look
                              into rebuilding them with a modern seal
                              and sealed bearings.
                              <div>I have some concerns about the small
                                size of the annulus through which all
                                the coolant must pass in the original
                                design so I have managed to install a
                                considerably smaller seal as in the pics
                                attached. </div>
                              <div>After bench testing one of the
                                prototypes is now fitted to my car
                                awaiting a test drive as soon as the
                                snow is gone.</div>
                            </div>
                            <br clear="none">
                            <div class="yiv1213687328gmail_quote">
                              <div class="yiv1213687328gmail_attr"
                                dir="ltr">On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13
                                p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, &lt;<a
                                  rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer"
                                  shape="rect"
                                  ymailto="mailto:[email-masked]"
                                  target="_blank"
                                  href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                                  moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                                wrote:<br clear="none">
                              </div>
                              <blockquote
                                class="yiv1213687328gmail_quote"
                                style="margin:0px 0px 0px
                                0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
                                rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
                                <div>
                                  <div>What's the skinny on the repo 100
                                    water pumps? Hear they leak and need
                                    broken in dry. Uprated pump any
                                    good? Moss states the brass tap can
                                    be screwed into the uprated pump,
                                    but from the pictures it actually
                                    looks like the standard has threads
                                    and not the uprated. Can anyone
                                    confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/
                                    advice welcomed?</div>
                                  <div>TY, Shawn</div>
                                  <div><br clear="none">
                                  </div>
                                  <div>The Millers<br clear="none">
                                     <br clear="none">
                                    "Always drive them, but remember
                                    each drive in an antique car is a
                                    test drive."<br clear="none">
                                  </div>
                                </div>
                                <br clear="none">
                              </blockquote>
                            </div>
                          </blockquote>
                          <br clear="none">
                        </div>
                        <br>
                      </blockquote>
                    </div>
                  </div>
                </div>
              </div>
            </font></div>
        </div>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

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[email-masked]

--===============7948378635084195877==--

---

From: john harper via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 10:25:47 +0000

--===============6415691637352631736==

--000000000000238d5105bcefbe4b

Bob

Just a bit of information that might be of help.

The Pump fitted to 100, A70, and A90, etc. was serviced as one item with
the pulley. The pump however was used on many later BMC 4 cylinder petrol
engines where it was serviced without the pulley. The pulleys in this case
were narrower or multi-groove.

If one is searching old stock outlets the pump less pulley was used until
the early 60s.

Part number 10K 44   Service kit major 8G 2302   minor  8G2042

There might be a small difference where heater, by-pass, and plugs fit but
these can be easily changed

On Sun, 7 Mar 2021 at 00:17, Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:

> The single most effective thing I did to alleviate heat-up at idle was to
> install a Hayden 7-bladed stainless steel flex fan (part of a kit with a
> shroud the Nocks once sold). I just couldn't stand the noise it made, and
> the fact it blew dust up from the road.
>
> <[email-masked]>
> To: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> <[email-masked]>
> <[email-masked]>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--000000000000238d5105bcefbe4b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Bob<div><br></div><div>Just a bit of information that migh=
t be of help.</div><div><br></div><div>The Pump fitted to 100, A70, and A90=
, etc. was serviced as one item with the pulley. The pump however was used =
on many later BMC 4 cylinder petrol engines where it was serviced without=
=C2=A0the pulley. The pulleys in this case were narrower or multi-groove.=
=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>If one is searching=C2=A0old stock outlets =
the pump less pulley was used until the early 60s.</div><div><br></div><div=
>Part number 10K 44=C2=A0 =C2=A0Service=C2=A0kit major 8G 2302=C2=A0 =C2=A0=
minor=C2=A0 8G2042</div><div><br></div><div>There might be a small differen=
ce=C2=A0where heater, by-pass, and plugs fit but these can be easily change=
d</div><div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr"=
 class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, 7 Mar 2021 at 00:17, Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></d=
iv><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;bord=
er-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    The single most effective thing I did to alleviate heat-up at idle
    was to install a Hayden 7-bladed stainless steel flex fan (part of a
    kit with a shroud the Nocks once sold). I just couldn&#39;t stand the
    noise it made, and the fact it blew dust up from the road.<br>
    <br>
    <div>On 3/6/2021 12:06 PM, <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div style=3D"color:black;font:10pt Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
        <div>Gentlemen</div>
        Interesting discussion but one of the items that we really have
        to compare is the CFM of the radiator fan on the cars we are
        talking about.=C2=A0 The 1955 T Bird uses, if I recall correctly a
        relatively small diameter three bladed fan. The stock 100 4
        blade aluminum fan does not push much air either. Someone can
        run the numbers for a 4 blade, 15 inch diameter, 1 inch pitch
        blade and get the CFM at idle, 1000 and 2500 (fan) RPM and get a
        reasonable idea of the 100&#39;s fans ability to move air. Couple
        that with the lack of fan shrouding at the radiator and the
        numbers are even worse.=C2=A0 CFM is a big part of this issue. I
        would be surprised if we get 1000 CFM at cruising (2500 RPM).=C2=A0
        Imagine what idle is like.....at least while cruising the air
        flow is increased do to the car moving forward.=C2=A0
        <div>I&#39;m not a mechanical engineer so some of you ME&#39;s can =
jump
          in here.. Can&#39;t hurt my feelings because I&#39;ve been wrong =
many
          times before.....</div>
        <div>Perry<br>
          <br>
          <br>
          <div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:bl=
ack"><font size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br>
              From: Michael Salter via Healeys
              <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">&=
lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
              To: Bob Spidell <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" targe=
t=3D"_blank">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
              Cc: <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blan=
k">[email-masked]</a> <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" tar=
get=3D"_blank">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
              Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 12:20 pm<br>
              Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps<br>
              <br>
              <div id=3D"gmail-m_-2435984634715962628yiv1213687328">
                <div>
                  <div dir=3D"ltr">
                    <div style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-fami=
ly:arial,sans-serif">Yes Bob,
                        there is something wrong with our assumptions
                        regarding the cooling system not being &quot;large&=
quot;
                        enough. <br clear=3D"none">
                      </span></div>
                    <div style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-fami=
ly:arial,sans-serif">My wifes
                        Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has
                        less area than the 100. Certainly it has a
                        couple of very effective electric fans but they
                        really don&#39;t cut in very often unless you have
                        the AC on.</span></div>
                    <div style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-fami=
ly:arial,sans-serif">I&#39;m
                        suspicious of the rate of circulation but I&#39;ve
                        talked to Larry Varley about this subject and he
                        indicated that increasing the size of the water
                        pump annular orifice didn&#39;t make much differenc=
e
                        when he tried it.</span></div>
                    <div style=3D"font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-fami=
ly:arial,sans-serif"><br clear=3D"none">
                      </span></div>
                    <div style=3D"font-family:&quot;comic sans ms&quot;,san=
s-serif;font-size:small"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif">M</sp=
an><br clear=3D"none">
                    </div>
                    <div style=3D"font-family:&quot;comic sans ms&quot;,san=
s-serif;font-size:small"><br clear=3D"none">
                    </div>
                    <div style=3D"font-family:&quot;comic sans ms&quot;,san=
s-serif;font-size:small">M<br clear=3D"none">
                    </div>
                  </div>
                  <br clear=3D"none">
                  <div>
                    <div id=3D"gmail-m_-2435984634715962628yiv1213687328yqt=
27841">
                      <div dir=3D"ltr">On
                        Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell &lt;<a rel=
=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:bspidell@co=
mcast.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                        wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
                      </div>
                      <blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-=
left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
                        <div> I sold my late father&#39;s 1955 Thunderbird
                          to my BFF. These cars have a very similar
                          problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle.
                          When Ford stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the
                          T-Bird, they found the engine was
                          (essentially) too short for the long-hooded
                          car, so they &#39;engineered&#39;--I use the term
                          loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan
                          closer to the radiator. The spacer had the
                          added &#39;benefit&#39; of severely limiting cool=
ant
                          flow through the pump and radiator; there are
                          some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after
                          doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan,
                          etc. installed both a better pump (larger
                          vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached
                          pic is not of the spacer he used--I can&#39;t fin=
d
                          the link to it--but it shows the general idea
                          (Ford basically put a &#39;dam&#39; in the coolin=
g
                          system to block flow, and the improved spacers
                          mostly remove it). It appears this approach
                          has improved cooling, though the engine
                          probably still gets warm if it has to sit too
                          long at idle. Link is to one of the improved
                          pumps:<br clear=3D"none">
                          <br clear=3D"none">
                          <a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"=
rect" href=3D"https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-O=
utput-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/" target=3D"_blank">https://www.classict=
bird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO=
/</a><br clear=3D"none">
                          <br clear=3D"none">
                          Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to
                          increase cooling, esp. on my BJ8, I&#39;ve
                          wondered if a similar approach would work on
                          Healeys. Their pumps have very small vanes,
                          and the cavity in which the vanes operate
                          seems pretty small for such a large lump of
                          cast iron (I&#39;m guessing an uprated radiator
                          core won&#39;t help much if the coolant flow is
                          still hampered; at least, that&#39;s what I&#39;v=
e
                          found). This is probably not an option as, of
                          course, our engines don&#39;t have a similar
                          spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a
                          major task to increase both the cavity&#39;s size
                          and the pump (but I can dream).<br clear=3D"none"=
                          <br clear=3D"none">
                          ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is
                          usually attributed to too big of an engine in
                          too small of an engine compartment, and too
                          little airflow. But, the engine bay in an old
                          T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
                          not terribly larger in displacement--and still
                          suffers the same problem.<br clear=3D"none">
                          <br clear=3D"none">
                          Bob<br clear=3D"none">
                          <br clear=3D"none">
                          <div>On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via
                            Healeys wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
                          </div>
                          <blockquote type=3D"cite">
                            <div>After a couple of premature failures of
                              repro 100 water pumps I decided to look
                              into rebuilding them with a modern seal
                              and sealed bearings.
                              <div>I have some concerns about the small
                                size of the annulus through which all
                                the coolant must pass in the original
                                design so I have managed to install a
                                considerably smaller seal as in the pics
                                attached.=C2=A0</div>
                              <div>After bench testing one of the
                                prototypes is now fitted to my car
                                awaiting a test drive as soon as the
                                snow is gone.</div>
                            </div>
                            <br clear=3D"none">
                            <div>
                              <div dir=3D"ltr">On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13
                                p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, &lt;<a rel=
=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:healeys@aut=
ox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                                wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
                              </div>
                              <blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
                                <div>
                                  <div>What&#39;s the skinny on the repo 10=
0
                                    water pumps? Hear they leak and need
                                    broken in dry. Uprated pump any
                                    good? Moss states the brass tap can
                                    be screwed into the uprated pump,
                                    but from the pictures it actually
                                    looks like the standard has threads
                                    and not the uprated. Can anyone
                                    confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/
                                    advice welcomed?</div>
                                  <div>TY, Shawn</div>
                                  <div><br clear=3D"none">
                                  </div>
                                  <div>The Millers<br clear=3D"none">
                                    =C2=A0<br clear=3D"none">
                                    &quot;Always drive them, but remember
                                    each drive in an antique car is a
                                    test drive.&quot;<br clear=3D"none">
                                  </div>
                                </div>
                                <br clear=3D"none">
                              </blockquote>
                            </div>
                          </blockquote>
                          <br clear=3D"none">
                        </div>
                        <br>
                      </blockquote>
                    </div>
                  </div>
                </div>
              </div>
            </font></div>
        </div>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </div>

s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

--===============6415691637352631736==--