From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon May 1 01:27:22 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 1 May 2017 09:27:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator References: <001f01d2c1da$c73a3e40$55aebac0$@homecall.co.uk> The dynamo look-a-like alternators seem to have a bad reputation on reliability and probably do not deliver what they promise. You are fitting a non-standard item anyway so why not fit fit a tried and tested Lucas ACR../100 or AC Delco unit and be frank about it. You can do away with the regulator or use it as a junction box. Do not forget to upgrade your wiring, which would be a good thing to do anyway, the 50+ year old harness is most likely very tired, messed about with and prone to overheating/fire in various areas. At the least replace the wiring from the alternator to the battery with wiring that can handle twice the original current. It is also a good idea to increase the rating of the wiring of the headlamps, aux. lights, blower, and wipers. The average voltage will increase to about 14,5-15V thus there will be slightly more current. Kees Oudesluijs Op 30-4-2017 om 19:54 schreef Simon Lachlan: > > My nephew?s generator issues may resolve themselves soon. May??. > > We may look at replacing the C42 in his BJ8 with an alternator, one of > the generator lookalikes. > > Dynalite is one of the names I?ve come across, as sold by Holden?s. > The Usual Suspects don?t seem to give their lookalikes their brand names. > > Anyhow, I know this topic came up a few months back, but I wasn?t > interested then! So:- > > Does anyone have experience of these things? > > Is any brand better than another?? > > Etcetc. > > Holden?s claim 45amps for theirs. AHSpares claim 50amps. A BJ8?s C42 > generator kicks out 30amps max. It seems that one does need the BIG > fuse in the Dummy Control Box. When I put in my alternator, a Lucas > ACR, I put in an extra cable to carry the extra amps??.apparently if > the alternator is really belting out the amps, the old wiring is a bit > marginal. > > Any other thoughts? > > Kind advice to the effect that putting more modern electrics in our > old bangers is streng verboten is unnecessary at this time. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon May 1 07:42:20 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 1 May 2017 23:42:20 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator References: <001f01d2c1da$c73a3e40$55aebac0$@homecall.co.uk> The funniest thing I find about the "alternator inside a generator" conversions is the bloody pulley. It might look like a generator body - but you have to run a tiny pulley, because it needs a bucket load of revs to generate didly squat, more than a generator. Any good Lucas generator runs a Larger pulley - because it generates enough amps and stuff at low revs. Seriously men. Who revs their car past 5,000 rpm on the road? I run a C42 with a bigger DWR Pulley. That means I'm slowing down the old Lucas C42. Because it already generates enough power. Ok. I'm not running a 1,000 watt sound system or 4 IPods, and a grille full of spotlights. FFS - it's a Healey!! So if you run one of these alternator inside a generator silly things, it's a joke. You've got a fake, compromised alternator. Immediately identified by the pulley. An alternator needs air for cooling. A generator casing doesn't provide that. Run one or the other. Generator or alternator. I've got no issue if you run an alternator. Run a good, sensible, reliable one. Nearly as stupid as putting a disc brake inside a brake drum. Same issue. Innovative- but it doesn't work unless all you do is drive to a coffee shop. Simon. Just get a C42 and return the core when you get back. Best Chris Being Grumpy about modern shit. Sent from my iPhone > On 1 May 2017, at 3:54 am, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > My nephew?s generator issues may resolve themselves soon. May??. > We may look at replacing the C42 in his BJ8 with an alternator, one of the generator lookalikes. > Dynalite is one of the names I?ve come across, as sold by Holden?s. The Usual Suspects don?t seem to give their lookalikes their brand names. > Anyhow, I know this topic came up a few months back, but I wasn?t interested then! So:- > Does anyone have experience of these things? > Is any brand better than another?? > Etcetc. > Holden?s claim 45amps for theirs. AHSpares claim 50amps. A BJ8?s C42 generator kicks out 30amps max. It seems that one does need the BIG fuse in the Dummy Control Box. When I put in my alternator, a Lucas ACR, I put in an extra cable to carry the extra amps??.apparently if the alternator is really belting out the amps, the old wiring is a bit marginal. > > Any other thoughts? > Kind advice to the effect that putting more modern electrics in our old bangers is streng verboten is unnecessary at this time. > > Thanks, > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon May 1 09:24:17 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Mon, 1 May 2017 08:24:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Oil Pump source References: No the 6 cylinder pump will NOT work in the 100. Yes they are available and we do keep them in stock. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Michael Oritt Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2017 7:01 PM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] 100 Oil Pump source I am a bit confused as to whether the six-cylinder oil pump will fit on a 100. A few sources seem to say yes but Moss's catalogue lists different part #'s and NA for the 100. Does anyone have a good source? Best--Michael Oritt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon May 1 09:40:07 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Mon, 1 May 2017 08:40:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear end pinion shims References: <0f674c74-d91c-3bf9-ce54-945fa320c8cb@gmail.com> We have an assortment of shims to adjust the rear axle pinion bearings. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Wayne Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2017 5:23 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Rear end pinion shims Hello, I am building a couple of Healey rear ends and need a selection of pinion shims. They are 1 1/2 in OD by 1 1/8 ID Inches. Moss has a very limited selection and I was hoping someone had found an American cars application that fits. I believe 28 mm 38mm shims would work also. A kit with several thickness shims would be great. Thanks Wayne _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon May 1 13:02:56 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 1 May 2017 20:02:56 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Parisian volts The BJ8 genny saga continues. (My nephew is an Air Traffic Controller and his shifts have not enabled him to get down to the car as often as he might have liked. I've just retired, so the boot's on the other foot on my side of the Channel!) Now, he's done some tests which I think are pretty conclusive. Any of you gurus out there who are electrically minded - R2D2 eat your heart out -..I'd appreciate your input. See Pierre-Henri's email, below. (My comments in brackets) QUOTE Hi, I've come back from the garage. And I've done these tests: 1) Polarization -first I polarized the genny: engine off, connectors off terminals D and F on the Genny. One lead from terminal - of the battery to F terminal (of the Genny) and made 2 or 3 sparks. -then I polarized the control box: connected B (for battery) and F, and made them spark (We think this polarization business may be a bit of a diversion, but it seemed worth doing. Anyhow, he seems to have done it right per various websites and the Moss video. And he got sparks as hoped for. So, I think the genny and the control box are correctly polarized and probably always were. Any comments?) -I connected back the connectors onto the genny and started the engine. the ignition red light did not go off... (No surprises there really? Polarization of genny and control box was probably unnecessary and the fault probably lay elsewhere. But it was worth checking???) -Then I turned off the switch in the boot to disconnect terminal - from the battery (same as disconnecting a terminal from the battery). The engine stopped instantly. (This is per an answer from Norman Nock that I've kept on file for ages. He advised:- turn on engine, disconnect a battery terminal and, if engine stops, the genny is knackered. Norman was The Man and it seems like a good, neat test. Is PH correct in assuming that turning off the battery switch is the same as removing a battery lead??) -I turned the engine back on. I disconnected both connectors from D and F at the genny. Then I put a voltmeter between D and a good earth (red lead on a good earth and black lead on D terminal). I increased the RPMs and volt meter never showed 1,5 to 3 V. It was way below (30 mV)... (Seems like genny is not doing its stuff???? Comments??) -Then, voltmeter in the same position as previous test (and connectors of D and F), I connected a wire from D to F. I increased the RPMs. Instead of showing a increase in voltage, the voltmeter kept on indicating something near to 0. (30 mV). (Per above, genny is knackered?) So all this should mean the Genny is out of service? (Well, sitting in the UK, I think it's not doing it's stuff. Any ideas.....?) I could take it out of the car. try and turn it into a motor (as shown in one of the videos)? (This is per a video on Youtube whereby one squirted volts in rather than taking them out. If genny spins, it's sound inside. However, test does not show how many volts/amps are going to come out. Pierre-Henri. Watch the video again..you can do it in the car). I could take it home and disassemble it? (Yes. To check the brushes. Only. We don't have the facilities or skill in either location to do more than the brushes.) Looking forward to hearing from you! PH UNQUOTE I think the genny is u/s. I think it should come out ASAP. I think PH could look at the brushes if he can get inside without a workbench and vice. I think we'll be looking at a replacement for the genny. I'm dissuaded from the lookalike alternator scheme. I've had advice from experts which is all appreciated. They overheat..they don't produce the goods...they're not the Real Thing and they seem to be a waste of space. I guess they'll improve. I think PH will be content with a replacement genny. I've been reading about these new(?) electronic Control Boxes. They seem to be reliable and to squeeze a few more amps out of the system. Apparently, one avoids the Far East replicas at all costs, but they are otherwise a Good Thing. Any comments??? Sorry to present you all with such a questionnaire, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon May 1 13:44:14 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 1 May 2017 12:44:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] frog eye bumper conversion I have the frog eye bumperettes on the rear of my 100-6, but I saw a photo of a front bumper conversion with badge bar. Has anyone seen a commercial supplier for these? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: austin healey frog eye bump 2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 265595 bytes Desc: not available URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Mon May 1 13:54:02 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Mon, 01 May 2017 11:54:02 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Dynalite_or_which_alternator_to_C42_Gene?= =?iso-8859-1?q?rator?= Healey folks, I have in my posession a brand-new AccuSpark Stealth Dynamator which failed after about 20 minutes of driving on the freeway. According to the auto electric guy, the internal regulator ?crib-deathed?, allowing continuous full charging, which in turn fried the stator windings. He also said the design is a copy of the original late-'60s VW & Porsche Bosch first-generation alternators which looked the same as the previous generators. Dynamator sent my friend a new one with no hassles and no retun of the old one, which I now have. Physically, the product appears to be well-built. I have three southern-Calif friends who've mounted Dynamators within the last 6 months. They've been doing short drives ? no big road trips yet. IMO we'll have to wait for the results of this summer's hot weather and long drives to see how they work out. In the meantime, one should approach the Dynamator as a ?science project?: Before use, have an auto-electric shop test it to make sure the regulator is good Fully charge your battery before use. Dynamator suggests you use your original fan and pulley ? IMO it's better to replace the pulley with a smaller alternator-sized pulley to get higher speed. Add a voltmeter so you can observe the performance. Do short drives with an eye on the voltmeter. Don't trust it for a long drive until you've done some day trips in hot weather. At some point, I'll probably get mine re-wound, which is economically feasable due to the ?free? cost. FWIW - I'm currently running a Denso ?Mini-Chevy? alternator, which I would keep in the boot as a spare when using the Dynamator. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA, USA BN6 with 4 whl Disc Brakes Maker of most complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From jarowe at westnet.com.au Mon May 1 15:43:06 2017 From: jarowe at westnet.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 07:43:06 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator References: <001f01d2c1da$c73a3e40$55aebac0$@homecall.co.uk> Hi Simon I installed a Dynamator in my Silverstone. Worked a treat. I installed a 50amp fuse under the dash. Was easy as it had an existing ammmeter and the wires were already there. Just had to reconfigure the Control Box. It was so good I installed one in my 3000 BT7. As it would have been a hassle and not looked so good I bought a reconfigured Control box from Holdens as it had the 45amp fuse built into it and therefore no extra wiring required. I only used the Dynamator brand as I could buy from NZ for a better all up deal. They were different models of Dynamator but were of the same quality and worked fine out of the box. Just had to change the pulley to suit my configuration. Best of luck and cheers from west OZ John Rowe On 1/05/2017 3:54 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > My nephew?s generator issues may resolve themselves soon. May??. > > We may look at replacing the C42 in his BJ8 with an alternator, one of > the generator lookalikes. > > Dynalite is one of the names I?ve come across, as sold by Holden?s. > The Usual Suspects don?t seem to give their lookalikes their brand names. > > Anyhow, I know this topic came up a few months back, but I wasn?t > interested then! So:- > > Does anyone have experience of these things? > > Is any brand better than another?? > > Etcetc. > > Holden?s claim 45amps for theirs. AHSpares claim 50amps. A BJ8?s C42 > generator kicks out 30amps max. It seems that one does need the BIG > fuse in the Dummy Control Box. When I put in my alternator, a Lucas > ACR, I put in an extra cable to carry the extra amps??.apparently if > the alternator is really belting out the amps, the old wiring is a bit > marginal. > > Any other thoughts? > > Kind advice to the effect that putting more modern electrics in our > old bangers is streng verboten is unnecessary at this time. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jarowe at westnet.com.au > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon May 1 15:44:08 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 May 2017 17:44:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Beware ebay AH 100 Engine and Trans For listers that may not have noticed or missed the details, there is a listing on ebay for an engine and trans purportedly from an Austin Healey 100. Engine number shows that it is really from a Nash Metro. Sent a message to the seller but no response or changes made to the listing. As of a few minutes ago someone has already bid. Maybe they have a Metro! http://www.ebay.com/itm/252910180565?ul_noapp=true Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Mon May 1 16:31:22 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Mon, 1 May 2017 22:31:22 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Michael Salter Michael, Please give me a shout off the list. Thanks. Doug ____________________________________________________________ 3 Life-Shortening Foods You Should Avoid 3 Harmful Foods http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5907b7897e1ba378927d4st01duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Mon May 1 19:02:53 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 1 May 2017 18:02:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 110 octane leaded gas Actually, 110 octane leaded gasoline is available for cars. It is called racing fuel and is made by suppliers like Sunoco, Union and many others. You might have to go to a race track but many race shops also offer racing fuel. It aint cheap though. Expect to pay $8 to $10 per gallon. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Mon May 1 23:34:47 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Mon, 1 May 2017 22:34:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator References: <001f01d2c1da$c73a3e40$55aebac0$@homecall.co.uk> 5BlFd6QkHEEAr5BlGde1S1 Given the endless discussions on this topic, thought it would be useful to remind myself and any others who are interested in the major differences between alternators and generators In a gen. the heat generated is in the rotating armature that is on the inside of the enclosure and this is why cooling is important/difficult and the fan on the pulley provides this through the enclosure. The brushes on a gen work hard and switch full current several times per rev. hence the wear and sparking. Gen usually has an oilite bearing at the rear that also wears. This is a critical component as wear (dry no oil) could eventually lead to scraping of the armature on the field poles and throwing of lead at comm. Take care of your brushes, bronze bush and bearings and you will have a reliable gen. An alt. is inverted with the main winding on the outside (easier to cool hence more output) and the field on the inside; hence the shape - larger diameter and shorter. No mechanical commutator switching needed as this is done by diodes. Slip ring brushes feed low dc amps to the internal rotating field - that last almost forever. Alt usually have more reliable front and rear rotor bearings and less rotational weight as the main windings are on the stator and thus more mechanically robust than a gen. The discussions here also confuse me about the amps needed for our cars. I am with Chris on this one and wonder why you would need an 80 amp alt ?? !! Unless you run an extra 2 spots for long periods you likely don?t need the hi output of an alternator rather the mechanical reliability and the improvement of eliminating the mechanical regulator. Lets say headlights at 55W each; 5 amps for ignition and auxiliaries; 3 amps for side lights (convert these plus brake lights to LED?s to lighten your load); blower at 3 amps; wiper at 5 amps; OD 1 amp as worst case continuous. This gives a total of around 26 amps full house driving at night in the Winter and raining ! Intermittent loads are horn, brake lights, indicators. etc. No doubt one day will convert to an alt but it would likely be to eliminate the awful cheap non adjustable regulator that I had to purchase after my 50 year old Lucas one failed. rg From: Chris Dimmock Sent: Monday, May 1, 2017 6:42 AM To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator The funniest thing I find about the "alternator inside a generator" conversions is the bloody pulley. It might look like a generator body - but you have to run a tiny pulley, because it needs a bucket load of revs to generate didly squat, more than a generator. Any good Lucas generator runs a Larger pulley - because it generates enough amps and stuff at low revs. Seriously men. Who revs their car past 5,000 rpm on the road? I run a C42 with a bigger DWR Pulley. That means I'm slowing down the old Lucas C42. Because it already generates enough power. Ok. I'm not running a 1,000 watt sound system or 4 IPods, and a grille full of spotlights. FFS - it's a Healey!! So if you run one of these alternator inside a generator silly things, it's a joke. You've got a fake, compromised alternator. Immediately identified by the pulley. An alternator needs air for cooling. A generator casing doesn't provide that. Run one or the other. Generator or alternator. I've got no issue if you run an alternator. Run a good, sensible, reliable one. Nearly as stupid as putting a disc brake inside a brake drum. Same issue. Innovative- but it doesn't work unless all you do is drive to a coffee shop. Simon. Just get a C42 and return the core when you get back. Best Chris Being Grumpy about modern shit. Sent from my iPhone On 1 May 2017, at 3:54 am, Simon Lachlan wrote: My nephew?s generator issues may resolve themselves soon. May??. We may look at replacing the C42 in his BJ8 with an alternator, one of the generator lookalikes. Dynalite is one of the names I?ve come across, as sold by Holden?s. The Usual Suspects don?t seem to give their lookalikes their brand names. Anyhow, I know this topic came up a few months back, but I wasn?t interested then! So:- Does anyone have experience of these things? Is any brand better than another?? Etcetc. Holden?s claim 45amps for theirs. AHSpares claim 50amps. A BJ8?s C42 generator kicks out 30amps max. It seems that one does need the BIG fuse in the Dummy Control Box. When I put in my alternator, a Lucas ACR, I put in an extra cable to carry the extra amps??.apparently if the alternator is really belting out the amps, the old wiring is a bit marginal. Any other thoughts? Kind advice to the effect that putting more modern electrics in our old bangers is streng verboten is unnecessary at this time. Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 2 02:35:04 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 10:35:04 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator References: <20170501195402.23570.qmail@hoster902.com> It may be better in this case to fit an Ammeter instead of a Voltmeter. The current is the decisive factor for heat build up and thus failure. Normally one would fit a Voltmeter with an alternator, but then the usual alternators do not show these alarming signs of heat build up of these generator look-a-like alternators. Kees Oudesluijs Op 1-5-2017 om 21:54 schreef Steve B. Gerow: > Healey folks, > > I have in my posession a brand-new AccuSpark Stealth Dynamator which failed after about 20 minutes of driving on the freeway. According to the auto electric guy, the internal regulator ?crib-deathed?, allowing continuous full charging, which in turn fried the stator windings. > > He also said the design is a copy of the original late-'60s VW & Porsche Bosch first-generation alternators which looked the same as the previous generators. > > Dynamator sent my friend a new one with no hassles and no retun of the old one, which I now have. > > Physically, the product appears to be well-built. > > I have three southern-Calif friends who've mounted Dynamators within the last 6 months. They've been doing short drives ? no big road trips yet. > > IMO we'll have to wait for the results of this summer's hot weather and long drives to see how they work out. > > In the meantime, one should approach the Dynamator as a ?science project?: > > Before use, have an auto-electric shop test it to make sure the regulator is good > > Fully charge your battery before use. > > Dynamator suggests you use your original fan and pulley ? IMO it's better to replace the pulley with a smaller alternator-sized pulley to get higher speed. > > Add a voltmeter so you can observe the performance. > > Do short drives with an eye on the voltmeter. > > Don't trust it for a long drive until you've done some day trips in hot weather. > > > At some point, I'll probably get mine re-wound, which is economically feasable due to the ?free? cost. > > FWIW - I'm currently running a Denso ?Mini-Chevy? alternator, which I would keep in the boot as a spare when using the Dynamator. > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 2 02:48:31 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 10:48:31 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator References: <001f01d2c1da$c73a3e40$55aebac0$@homecall.co.uk> <6C3F190C646B4A14A874E85DD0444CBB@WINDOWST93OFP9> There you are, 26A at full house. How much does the generator generate? 20-25A if you are lucky. Kees Oudesluijs Op 2-5-2017 om 7:34 schreef Roger Grace: > Given the endless discussions on this topic, thought it would be > useful to remind myself and any others who are interested in the major > differences between alternators and generators > In a gen. the heat generated is in the rotating armature that is on > the inside of the enclosure and this is why cooling is > important/difficult and the fan on the pulley provides this through > the enclosure. The brushes on a gen work hard and switch full current > several times per rev. hence the wear and sparking. Gen usually has an > oilite bearing at the rear that also wears. This is a critical > component as wear (dry no oil) could eventually lead to scraping of > the armature on the field poles and throwing of lead at comm. Take > care of your brushes, bronze bush and bearings and you will have a > reliable gen. > An alt. is inverted with the main winding on the outside (easier to > cool hence more output) and the field on the inside; hence the shape > - larger diameter and shorter. No mechanical commutator switching > needed as this is done by diodes. Slip ring brushes feed low dc amps > to the internal rotating field - that last almost forever. Alt usually > have more reliable front and rear rotor bearings and less rotational > weight as the main windings are on the stator and thus more > mechanically robust than a gen. > The discussions here also confuse me about the amps needed for our > cars. I am with Chris on this one and wonder why you would need an 80 > amp alt ?? !! Unless you run an extra 2 spots for long periods you > likely don?t need the hi output of an alternator rather the mechanical > reliability and the improvement of eliminating the mechanical regulator. > Lets say headlights at 55W each; 5 amps for ignition and auxiliaries; > 3 amps for side lights (convert these plus brake lights to LED?s to > lighten your load); blower at 3 amps; wiper at 5 amps; OD 1 amp as > worst case continuous. This gives a total of around 26 amps full house > driving at night in the Winter and raining ! Intermittent loads are > horn, brake lights, indicators. etc. > No doubt one day will convert to an alt but it would likely be to > eliminate the awful cheap non adjustable regulator that I had to > purchase after my 50 year old Lucas one failed. > rg > *From:* Chris Dimmock > *Sent:* Monday, May 1, 2017 6:42 AM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator > The funniest thing I find about the "alternator inside a generator" > conversions is the bloody pulley. It might look like a generator body > - but you have to run a tiny pulley, because it needs a bucket load of > revs to generate didly squat, more than a generator. > Any good Lucas generator runs a Larger pulley - because it generates > enough amps and stuff at low revs. Seriously men. Who revs their car > past 5,000 rpm on the road? > I run a C42 with a bigger DWR Pulley. > That means I'm slowing down the old Lucas C42. Because it already > generates enough power. > Ok. I'm not running a 1,000 watt sound system or 4 IPods, and a grille > full of spotlights. FFS - it's a Healey!! > So if you run one of these alternator inside a generator silly things, > it's a joke. You've got a fake, compromised alternator. Immediately > identified by the pulley. An alternator needs air for cooling. A > generator casing doesn't provide that. > Run one or the other. Generator or alternator. I've got no issue if > you run an alternator. Run a good, sensible, reliable one. > Nearly as stupid as putting a disc brake inside a brake drum. Same issue. > Innovative- but it doesn't work unless all you do is drive to a coffee > shop. > Simon. Just get a C42 and return the core when you get back. > Best Chris > Being Grumpy about modern shit. > > > Sent from my iPhone > On 1 May 2017, at 3:54 am, Simon Lachlan > wrote: > >> My nephew?s generator issues may resolve themselves soon. May??. >> >> We may look at replacing the C42 in his BJ8 with an alternator, one >> of the generator lookalikes. >> >> Dynalite is one of the names I?ve come across, as sold by Holden?s. >> The Usual Suspects don?t seem to give their lookalikes their brand names. >> >> Anyhow, I know this topic came up a few months back, but I wasn?t >> interested then! So:- >> >> Does anyone have experience of these things? >> >> Is any brand better than another?? >> >> Etcetc. >> >> Holden?s claim 45amps for theirs. AHSpares claim 50amps. A BJ8?s C42 >> generator kicks out 30amps max. It seems that one does need the BIG >> fuse in the Dummy Control Box. When I put in my alternator, a Lucas >> ACR, I put in an extra cable to carry the extra amps??.apparently if >> the alternator is really belting out the amps, the old wiring is a >> bit marginal. >> >> Any other thoughts? >> >> Kind advice to the effect that putting more modern electrics in our >> old bangers is streng verboten is unnecessary at this time. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Simon >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue May 2 04:00:39 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 20:00:39 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator References: <001f01d2c1da$c73a3e40$55aebac0$@homecall.co.uk> <6C3F190C646B4A14A874E85DD0444CBB@WINDOWST93OFP9> <18218002-e915-d76f-c4a3-4bde4fbbc4f1@chello.nl> No. We are specifically talking about the Lucas C42 as used on the BJ8 A Lucas C42 generates 30 amps at 4,500 rpm. It's fine. Sent from my iPhone > On 2 May 2017, at 6:48 pm, Oudesluys wrote: > > There you are, 26A at full house. > How much does the generator generate? 20-25A if you are lucky. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 2-5-2017 om 7:34 schreef Roger Grace: >> Given the endless discussions on this topic, thought it would be useful to remind myself and any others who are interested in the major differences between alternators and generators >> >> In a gen. the heat generated is in the rotating armature that is on the inside of the enclosure and this is why cooling is important/difficult and the fan on the pulley provides this through the enclosure. The brushes on a gen work hard and switch full current several times per rev. hence the wear and sparking. Gen usually has an oilite bearing at the rear that also wears. This is a critical component as wear (dry no oil) could eventually lead to scraping of the armature on the field poles and throwing of lead at comm. Take care of your brushes, bronze bush and bearings and you will have a reliable gen. >> >> An alt. is inverted with the main winding on the outside (easier to cool hence more output) and the field on the inside; hence the shape - larger diameter and shorter. No mechanical commutator switching needed as this is done by diodes. Slip ring brushes feed low dc amps to the internal rotating field - that last almost forever. Alt usually have more reliable front and rear rotor bearings and less rotational weight as the main windings are on the stator and thus more mechanically robust than a gen. >> >> The discussions here also confuse me about the amps needed for our cars. I am with Chris on this one and wonder why you would need an 80 amp alt ?? !! Unless you run an extra 2 spots for long periods you likely don?t need the hi output of an alternator rather the mechanical reliability and the improvement of eliminating the mechanical regulator. >> Lets say headlights at 55W each; 5 amps for ignition and auxiliaries; 3 amps for side lights (convert these plus brake lights to LED?s to lighten your load); blower at 3 amps; wiper at 5 amps; OD 1 amp as worst case continuous. This gives a total of around 26 amps full house driving at night in the Winter and raining ! Intermittent loads are horn, brake lights, indicators. etc. >> >> No doubt one day will convert to an alt but it would likely be to eliminate the awful cheap non adjustable regulator that I had to purchase after my 50 year old Lucas one failed. >> rg >> >> >> From: Chris Dimmock >> Sent: Monday, May 1, 2017 6:42 AM >> To: Simon Lachlan >> Cc: Healey List >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator >> >> The funniest thing I find about the "alternator inside a generator" conversions is the bloody pulley. It might look like a generator body - but you have to run a tiny pulley, because it needs a bucket load of revs to generate didly squat, more than a generator. >> Any good Lucas generator runs a Larger pulley - because it generates enough amps and stuff at low revs. Seriously men. Who revs their car past 5,000 rpm on the road? >> I run a C42 with a bigger DWR Pulley. >> That means I'm slowing down the old Lucas C42. Because it already generates enough power. >> Ok. I'm not running a 1,000 watt sound system or 4 IPods, and a grille full of spotlights. FFS - it's a Healey!! >> So if you run one of these alternator inside a generator silly things, it's a joke. You've got a fake, compromised alternator. Immediately identified by the pulley. An alternator needs air for cooling. A generator casing doesn't provide that. >> Run one or the other. Generator or alternator. I've got no issue if you run an alternator. Run a good, sensible, reliable one. >> Nearly as stupid as putting a disc brake inside a brake drum. Same issue. >> Innovative- but it doesn't work unless all you do is drive to a coffee shop. >> Simon. Just get a C42 and return the core when you get back. >> Best Chris >> Being Grumpy about modern shit. >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> On 1 May 2017, at 3:54 am, Simon Lachlan wrote: >> >>> My nephew?s generator issues may resolve themselves soon. May??. >>> >>> We may look at replacing the C42 in his BJ8 with an alternator, one of the generator lookalikes. >>> >>> Dynalite is one of the names I?ve come across, as sold by Holden?s. The Usual Suspects don?t seem to give their lookalikes their brand names. >>> >>> Anyhow, I know this topic came up a few months back, but I wasn?t interested then! So:- >>> >>> Does anyone have experience of these things? >>> >>> Is any brand better than another?? >>> >>> Etcetc. >>> >>> Holden?s claim 45amps for theirs. AHSpares claim 50amps. A BJ8?s C42 generator kicks out 30amps max. It seems that one does need the BIG fuse in the Dummy Control Box. When I put in my alternator, a Lucas ACR, I put in an extra cable to carry the extra amps??.apparently if the alternator is really belting out the amps, the old wiring is a bit marginal. >>> >>> >>> >>> Any other thoughts? >>> >>> Kind advice to the effect that putting more modern electrics in our old bangers is streng verboten is unnecessary at this time. >>> >>> >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Simon >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >>> >> >> Virus-free. www.avg.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.PNG Type: image/png Size: 286675 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 2 04:16:21 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 12:16:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator References: <001f01d2c1da$c73a3e40$55aebac0$@homecall.co.uk> <6C3F190C646B4A14A874E85DD0444CBB@WINDOWST93OFP9> <18218002-e915-d76f-c4a3-4bde4fbbc4f1@chello.nl> <2FE44144-CC9E-4185-B5EA-9D3BF210D2C1@gmail.com> Thanks Chris, A very enlightening table! Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs Op 2-5-2017 om 12:00 schreef Chris Dimmock: > No. > We are specifically talking about the Lucas C42 as used on the BJ8 > A Lucas C42 generates 30 amps at 4,500 rpm. > It's fine. > > > image1.PNG > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 2 May 2017, at 6:48 pm, Oudesluys >> There you are, 26A at full house. >> How much does the generator generate? 20-25A if you are lucky. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> >> Op 2-5-2017 om 7:34 schreef Roger Grace: >>> Given the endless discussions on this topic, thought it would be >>> useful to remind myself and any others who are interested in the >>> major differences between alternators and generators >>> In a gen. the heat generated is in the rotating armature that is on >>> the inside of the enclosure and this is why cooling is >>> important/difficult and the fan on the pulley provides this through >>> the enclosure. The brushes on a gen work hard and switch full >>> current several times per rev. hence the wear and sparking. Gen >>> usually has an oilite bearing at the rear that also wears. This is a >>> critical component as wear (dry no oil) could eventually lead to >>> scraping of the armature on the field poles and throwing of lead at >>> comm. Take care of your brushes, bronze bush and bearings and you >>> will have a reliable gen. >>> An alt. is inverted with the main winding on the outside (easier to >>> cool hence more output) and the field on the inside; hence the >>> shape - larger diameter and shorter. No mechanical commutator >>> switching needed as this is done by diodes. Slip ring brushes feed >>> low dc amps to the internal rotating field - that last almost >>> forever. Alt usually have more reliable front and rear rotor >>> bearings and less rotational weight as the main windings are on the >>> stator and thus more mechanically robust than a gen. >>> The discussions here also confuse me about the amps needed for our >>> cars. I am with Chris on this one and wonder why you would need an >>> 80 amp alt ?? !! Unless you run an extra 2 spots for long periods >>> you likely don?t need the hi output of an alternator rather the >>> mechanical reliability and the improvement of eliminating the >>> mechanical regulator. >>> Lets say headlights at 55W each; 5 amps for ignition and >>> auxiliaries; 3 amps for side lights (convert these plus brake lights >>> to LED?s to lighten your load); blower at 3 amps; wiper at 5 amps; >>> OD 1 amp as worst case continuous. This gives a total of around 26 >>> amps full house driving at night in the Winter and raining ! >>> Intermittent loads are horn, brake lights, indicators. etc. >>> No doubt one day will convert to an alt but it would likely be to >>> eliminate the awful cheap non adjustable regulator that I had to >>> purchase after my 50 year old Lucas one failed. >>> rg >>> *From:* Chris Dimmock >>> *Sent:* Monday, May 1, 2017 6:42 AM >>> *To:* Simon Lachlan >>> *Cc:* Healey List >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator >>> The funniest thing I find about the "alternator inside a generator" >>> conversions is the bloody pulley. It might look like a generator >>> body - but you have to run a tiny pulley, because it needs a bucket >>> load of revs to generate didly squat, more than a generator. >>> Any good Lucas generator runs a Larger pulley - because it generates >>> enough amps and stuff at low revs. Seriously men. Who revs their car >>> past 5,000 rpm on the road? >>> I run a C42 with a bigger DWR Pulley. >>> That means I'm slowing down the old Lucas C42. Because it already >>> generates enough power. >>> Ok. I'm not running a 1,000 watt sound system or 4 IPods, and a >>> grille full of spotlights. FFS - it's a Healey!! >>> So if you run one of these alternator inside a generator silly >>> things, it's a joke. You've got a fake, compromised alternator. >>> Immediately identified by the pulley. An alternator needs air for >>> cooling. A generator casing doesn't provide that. >>> Run one or the other. Generator or alternator. I've got no issue if >>> you run an alternator. Run a good, sensible, reliable one. >>> Nearly as stupid as putting a disc brake inside a brake drum. Same >>> issue. >>> Innovative- but it doesn't work unless all you do is drive to a >>> coffee shop. >>> Simon. Just get a C42 and return the core when you get back. >>> Best Chris >>> Being Grumpy about modern shit. >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> On 1 May 2017, at 3:54 am, Simon Lachlan >>> wrote: >>> >>>> My nephew?s generator issues may resolve themselves soon. May??. >>>> >>>> We may look at replacing the C42 in his BJ8 with an alternator, one >>>> of the generator lookalikes. >>>> >>>> Dynalite is one of the names I?ve come across, as sold by Holden?s. >>>> The Usual Suspects don?t seem to give their lookalikes their brand >>>> names. >>>> >>>> Anyhow, I know this topic came up a few months back, but I wasn?t >>>> interested then! So:- >>>> >>>> Does anyone have experience of these things? >>>> >>>> Is any brand better than another?? >>>> >>>> Etcetc. >>>> >>>> Holden?s claim 45amps for theirs. AHSpares claim 50amps. A BJ8?s >>>> C42 generator kicks out 30amps max. It seems that one does need the >>>> BIG fuse in the Dummy Control Box. When I put in my alternator, a >>>> Lucas ACR, I put in an extra cable to carry the extra >>>> amps??.apparently if the alternator is really belting out the amps, >>>> the old wiring is a bit marginal. >>>> >>>> Any other thoughts? >>>> >>>> Kind advice to the effect that putting more modern electrics in our >>>> old bangers is streng verboten is unnecessary at this time. >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> >>>> Simon >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >>>> >>> >>> >>> Virus-free. www.avg.com >>> >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> SupportTeam.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.PNG Type: image/png Size: 286675 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue May 2 04:51:31 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 11:51:31 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator References: <001f01d2c1da$c73a3e40$55aebac0$@homecall.co.uk> <6C3F190C646B4A14A874E85DD0444CBB@WINDOWST93OFP9> <18218002-e915-d76f-c4a3-4bde4fbbc4f1@chello.nl> The BMC manual claimed:- Type Car Cut-in rpm Max Amps/rpm C45 PV6 Up to BJ8 1,100-1,250 25amp/13.5v at 1,700-1,900 C42 BJ8 1,250 30amp/13.5v at 1,250 Lucas 17ACR alternator. Any neg car Dunno! 40amps/13.5+v from idle Claims. That?s new, tip top with lovely wiring, beautiful earth connections all round and wonderful Control Box. Of course, there?s no mention of the 17ACR in the book; just put it in for general interest. I?ve seen it rated at 45 amps but am happy enough with 40. (Once installed on the readily available bracket the 17ACR looks OK. You?d not really notice unless you were looking at a row of Healeys at a show. Not for the purists, I know). Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: 02 May 2017 09:49 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator There you are, 26A at full house. How much does the generator generate? 20-25A if you are lucky. Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Tue May 2 05:20:04 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 13:20:04 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator References: <001f01d2c1da$c73a3e40$55aebac0$@homecall.co.uk> <6C3F190C646B4A14A874E85DD0444CBB@WINDOWST93OFP9> <18218002-e915-d76f-c4a3-4bde4fbbc4f1@chello.nl> <2FE44144-CC9E-4185-B5EA-9D3BF210D2C1@gmail.com> Hi So if you want a little more than the original rob an old Roller for the generator. Per Skickat fr?n min iPad > 2 maj 2017 kl. 12:00 skrev Chris Dimmock : > > No. > We are specifically talking about the Lucas C42 as used on the BJ8 > A Lucas C42 generates 30 amps at 4,500 rpm. > It's fine. > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On 2 May 2017, at 6:48 pm, Oudesluys wrote: >> >> There you are, 26A at full house. >> How much does the generator generate? 20-25A if you are lucky. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Tue May 2 05:57:06 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 13:57:06 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Parisian volts References: <000001d2c2ad$8c33c720$a49b5560$@homecall.co.uk> > Simon > I don' think that polarisation exercise did anything to anything. And, turning that switch in the boot is NOT the same as removing a cable from the battery. If he had removed the black/white cable from the switch it would have been the same though. That black/white cable grounds the ignition when the switch is turned off, it's like a Stone Age immobilizer if you like. > I'm sure the problem is that the brushes in the generator are worn out, it usually is. Just replace them, it's not that difficult. > > Skickat fr?n min iPad > > Per > >> 1 maj 2017 kl. 21:02 skrev Simon Lachlan : >> >> The BJ8 genny saga continues. (My nephew is an Air Traffic Controller and his shifts have not enabled him to get down to the car as often as he might have liked. I?ve just retired, so the boot?s on the other foot on my side of the Channel!) >> Now, he?s done some tests which I think are pretty conclusive. Any of you gurus out there who are electrically minded ? R2D2 eat your heart out -?.I?d appreciate your input. >> See Pierre-Henri?s email, below. (My comments in brackets) >> QUOTE >> >> >> 1) Polarization >> >> -Then I turned off the switch in the boot to disconnect terminal - from the battery (same as disconnecting a terminal from the battery). The engine stopped instantly. >> >> (This is per an answer from Norman Nock that I?ve kept on file for ages. He advised:- turn on engine, disconnect a battery terminal and, if engine stops, the genny is knackered. Norman was The Man and it seems like a good, neat test. Is PH correct in assuming that turning off the battery switch is the same as removing a battery lead??) >> >> I could take it home and disassemble it? >> >> (Yes. To check the brushes. Only. We don?t have the facilities or skill in either location to do more than the brushes.) >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Tue May 2 15:59:56 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 14:59:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: 110 octane leaded gas References: <1473140350.420109.1493708892034@mail.yahoo.com> ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Michael MacLean Date: Tue, May 2, 2017 at 12:08 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 110 octane leaded gas To: richard mayor , healeys 100 octane racing gas available at the pump at a 76 station nearby. Not sure if lead is in there, but I know there is no ethanol. Use it in the Bugeye because it can sit for long periods of time and still be "good gas". The Bugeye doesn't complain about the high octane. As much as I drive it (not much) the cost is not that bad. I also use it in the Harley Davidson because I rebuilt the engine with higher compression, (10 to 1) A couple gallons in the 5 gallon tank and the rest with Chevron 91 octane and I never get pinging. When the BN2 is finished I will put this gas in the tank at a 40% to 60% rate with the Chevron 91. Richard, Please forwar this to the list as I can only receive emails and cannot send to the list for some reason. Mike MacLean On Monday, May 1, 2017 8:37 PM, richard mayor wrote: Actually, 110 octane leaded gasoline is available for cars. It is called racing fuel and is made by suppliers like Sunoco, Union and many others. You might have to go to a race track but many race shops also offer racing fuel. It aint cheap though. Expect to pay $8 to $10 per gallon. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From go2ghill at aol.com Wed May 3 17:41:03 2017 From: go2ghill at aol.com (Greg Hill) Date: Wed, 3 May 2017 19:41:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] K & N filters Has any one replaced the original air filters on a Bj8 with K &N filters? If so what was the part number? Greg Hill 67 Bj8 Sent from AOL Mobile Mail -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Wed May 3 20:26:40 2017 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Wed, 3 May 2017 22:26:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] K & N filters References: <15bd0b03eb5-59fe-1bc02@webprd-a58.mail.aol.com> This is what I did. K&N #s RA-055V and RC-2400 plus two short ram kits from Burlen Fuel # CCCN8409910000. Cutting off the horn of the ram allows the K&N filters to mount on them with a hose clamp. John On 5/3/2017 7:41 PM, Greg Hill wrote: > > Has any one replaced the original air filters on a Bj8 with K &N > filters? If so what was the part number? > Greg Hill > 67 Bj8 > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed May 3 21:52:48 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 3 May 2017 20:52:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] K & N Filter References: <15bc0049512-72da-f775@webprd-m63.mail.aol.com> Charlie Hart will cut and drill k&n filters to fit a HD8 carb. He did mine. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On May 3, 2017 7:33 PM, "Greg Hill" wrote: > With so many filter sizes to select from, does someone know which filter > is a replacement to fit on a Bj8. > > Greg Hill > > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rft2 at aol.com Fri May 5 13:59:09 2017 From: rft2 at aol.com (rft2 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 May 2017 15:59:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] K & N Filter I'm using a K&N 2009 in my BJ8. Photo attached Mal Hickok rft2 at aol.com -----Original Message----- From: i erbs To: Greg Hill Cc: Ahealey help Sent: Thu, May 4, 2017 12:10 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] K & N Filter Charlie Hart will cut and drill k&n filters to fit a HD8 carb. He did mine. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On May 3, 2017 7:33 PM, "Greg Hill" wrote: With so many filter sizes to select from, does someone know which filter is a replacement to fit on a Bj8. Greg Hill Sent from AOL Mobile Mail _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0648.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 113212 bytes Desc: not available URL: From m.brouillette at comcast.net Sat May 6 15:17:47 2017 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (m.brouillette at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 6 May 2017 21:17:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Cars and coffee Scottsdale this morning Went over to Scottsdale's monthly cars and coffee and only Healey there was a blue nasty boy. Anyone take claim to it? Went back and it was gone. Sent from XFINITY Connect Mobile App From alsemus1 at gmail.com Sat May 6 18:38:37 2017 From: alsemus1 at gmail.com (Albert Seminatore) Date: Sat, 6 May 2017 17:38:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 141 References: Hopefully I can attach two pictures of my K & N filters. What I did was cut the filter element in half so that it would not rub against the body. I then installed two bolts on the carb going from the manifold to the front. Put the gasket and back plate for the filter on and then tightened them down with a nut. I never have to remove them again. Then I slide the filter on and the outer plate. The are held in place with two wing nuts. This makes it very easy for tune ups and such. Reach across the car and undo the wingnuts. Oh and you have two sparefilter elements to boot. ........................... Al From: i erbs To: Greg Hill Cc: Ahealey help Sent: Thu, May 4, 2017 12:10 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] K & N Filter Charlie Hart will cut and drill k&n filters to fit a HD8 carb. He did mine. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On May 3, 2017 7:33 PM, "Greg Hill" wrote: With so many filter sizes to select from, does someone know which filter is a replacement to fit on a Bj8. Greg Hill[image: Inline image 1][image: Inline image 2] On Sat, May 6, 2017 at 11:00 AM, wrote: > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: K & N Filter (rft2 at aol.com) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 5 May 2017 15:59:09 -0400 > From: rft2 at aol.com > To: eyera3000 at gmail.com, go2ghill at aol.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] K & N Filter > Message-ID: <15bda31d171-7cfc-205e3 at webprd-m22.mail.aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I'm using a K&N 2009 in my BJ8. Photo attached > > > Mal Hickok > rft2 at aol.com > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: i erbs > To: Greg Hill > Cc: Ahealey help > Sent: Thu, May 4, 2017 12:10 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] K & N Filter > > > > Charlie Hart will cut and drill k&n filters to fit a HD8 carb. He did mine. > > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. > Portland,OR > > > > On May 3, 2017 7:33 PM, "Greg Hill" wrote: > > With so many filter sizes to select from, does someone know which filter > is a replacement to fit on a Bj8. > > Greg Hill > > > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rft2 at aol.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170505/8a10849c/attachment-0001.html> > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0648.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 113212 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: 20170505/8a10849c/attachment-0001.jpe> > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 141 > **************************************** > -- Albert Seminatore Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV eMail: alsemus1 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 1494104627911.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 41854 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 1494102326361.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 34178 bytes Desc: not available URL: From charles1783 at charter.net Sat May 6 20:08:48 2017 From: charles1783 at charter.net (Charles "CJ" Johnson) Date: Sat, 6 May 2017 22:08:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels and axels for Valve Cover racers Listers, I asked this question before, but have deleted, accidentally the answers. My computer skills are limited. Someone had wheels and axels available and another referenced an article. I am unable to find any mention in the archives, but that could be me too. I would like to complete my racer intake for the Conclave in Waco. V/r CJ BJ7 From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun May 7 06:08:03 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 7 May 2017 08:08:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop storage trolley Listers, Any experience with this roll around cart/trolley for hardtops? http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-HARDTOP-STAND-STORAGE-TROLLEY-CART-SECURING-HARNESS-050-/161834855344?hash=item25ae1bebb0:g:g2sAAOSwq19XCQYm&vxp=mtr Looks like there's a seller in the UK: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-CONVERTIBLE-HARDTOP-STAND-STORAGE-TROLLEY-050-/110876122208?hash=item19d0bb5c60:g:b1QAAOSwLqFV7sMF Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun May 7 08:32:22 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 07 May 2017 10:32:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop storage trolley References: <00b71582-b0d3-6c64-85e3-bcaecaab4eab@earthlink.net> Or you can go to the Technical page Body section of my site for a look-see of home-made hard top hoists. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2017 8:08 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop storage trolley Listers, Any experience with this roll around cart/trolley for hardtops? http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-HARDTOP-STAND-STORAGE-TROLLEY-CART-SEC URING-HARNESS-050-/161834855344?hash=item25ae1bebb0:g:g2sAAOSwq19XCQYm&vxp=m tr Looks like there's a seller in the UK: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-CONVERTIBLE-HARDTOP-STAND-STORAGE-TROL LEY-050-/110876122208?hash=item19d0bb5c60:g:b1QAAOSwLqFV7sMF Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From 67healey at gmail.com Sun May 7 13:27:45 2017 From: 67healey at gmail.com (Healey) Date: Sun, 7 May 2017 12:27:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear License Plate Mounting References: <031201d2ba37$c868e190$593aa4b0$@rr.com> Thanks guys - should the heads of the two bolts going through the rear shroud be painted body color, or just left unfinished? On Thu, Apr 20, 2017 at 5:39 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > The license plate bracket for USA cars was moved from the rear shroud > under the bumper to the bumper itself at body 79900, which is approximately > chassis 349XX. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > [image: TARHEELY license plate] > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of * > Healey > *Sent:* Thursday, April 20, 2017 4:38 PM > *To:* Austin Healey > *Subject:* [Healeys] Rear License Plate Mounting > > > > Hi, > > > > On my late 67 BJ8, the license plate bracket currently attaches directly > to the rear bumper. However, there are also two holes on the bottom of the > rear shroud that have bolts in them. Are the holes / bolts on the shroud > just a left over from a previous method of installing the bracket? Or is > that actually the correct place for the bracket to be installed on? > > > > Second question - to avoid a continued bombing of the list with > questions about what are the correct colors & what current paints were used > for different parts - does the concours guidelines get to this level of > detail? or is it more like part X should be "flat black" etc? > > > > Thanks as usual, > > > > Neil > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/67healey at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 19755 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun May 7 19:54:20 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 7 May 2017 18:54:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] K & N filters References: <15bd0b03eb5-59fe-1bc02@webprd-a58.mail.aol.com> I have. Will need to look up# Charlie Hart did the additions to fit the carbs Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On May 7, 2017 6:53 PM, "Greg Hill" wrote: > > Has any one replaced the original air filters on a Bj8 with K &N filters? > If so what was the part number? > Greg Hill > 67 Bj8 > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon May 8 10:47:37 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 17:47:37 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 weight My BMC manual says:- Unladed weight:- 1,080kg/2,380lb Kerbside weight:- 1,115kg/2,460lb In my simple way I thought that this was:- Empty car:- 1,080kg Fully/max laden car:- 1,115kg A little thought shows that there is only 35kg/77lbs difference between the two. Not much of a load. What am I missing? This is all to do with my nephew getting his car registered for use in France. He's on temporary/import plates at the moment, but they won't last forever. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Mon May 8 11:22:16 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 17:22:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 weight References: <002b01d2c81a$cd19f120$674dd360$@homecall.co.uk> Just a guess that laden is with 10 gallons of fuel? Regards, Richard C BN7 #440 My BMC manual says:- Unladed weight:- 1,080kg/2,380lb Kerbside weight:- 1,115kg/2,460lb In my simple way I thought that this was:- Empty car:- 1,080kg Fully/max laden car:- 1,115kg A little thought shows that there is only 35kg/77lbs difference between the two. Not much of a load. What am I missing? This is all to do with my nephew getting his car registered for use in France. He?s on temporary/import plates at the moment, but they won?t last forever? Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon May 8 11:46:23 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 18:46:23 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Weight...almost there Seems like:- 1. I was being thick 2. The difference in weight is the fuel etc Simple when you think about it..just got to think. Is there a maximum permitted all up weight? I can't think what that would matter in Healey terms, but we're talking the worst kind of Eurocratic form filling-twaddle mongers here. We may just have to make something up. Two average adults. Two average kids. Some luggage. (Skinny, sixties, people!) Thanks to all, so far. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon May 8 12:05:55 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 20:05:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 weight References: <002b01d2c81a$cd19f120$674dd360$@homecall.co.uk> Normally: Kerbside weight is with all fluids i.e. oil, coolant, brake fluid, windscreen washer fluid, airco fluid i.a. and a full tank of petrol but no luggage and occupants. Maximum permissable weight includes this plus occupants and luggage to the max. Emty car, no fluids, occupants, luggage or any other load. However many countries use different definitions and/or regulations for registration, so do check before what they actually mean. Kees Oudesluijs Op 8-5-2017 om 18:47 schreef Simon Lachlan: > > My BMC manual says:- > > Unladed weight:- 1,080kg/2,380lb > > Kerbside weight:- 1,115kg/2,460lb > > In my simple way I thought that this was:- > > Empty car:- 1,080kg > > Fully/max laden car:- 1,115kg > > A little thought shows that there is only 35kg/77lbs difference > between the two. Not much of a load. What am I missing? > > This is all to do with my nephew getting his car registered for use in > France. He?s on temporary/import plates at the moment, but they won?t > last forever? > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon May 8 12:53:26 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 11:53:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] importing a car from canada to USA I'm looking into buying a Frog eye sprite from Canada. I need advice on transporting it from Manitoba to Portland, OR. Any recommendations on companies and the process to get through customs. I have thought about a road trip, but still to figure out customs. I have read the website, but it does not make a lot of sense to me Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjhco at att.net Mon May 8 13:20:26 2017 From: rjhco at att.net (Richard J. Hockert) Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 14:20:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Weight...almost there References: <004101d2c823$02905670$07b10350$@homecall.co.uk> The weight that is quoted by the factory is not real world. Put your BJ8 on some scales. True weight is about 2,750 pounds. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Monday, May 08, 2017 12:46 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Weight...almost there Seems like:- 1. I was being thick 2. The difference in weight is the fuel etc Simple when you think about it..just got to think. Is there a maximum permitted all up weight? I can't think what that would matter in Healey terms, but we're talking the worst kind of Eurocratic form filling-twaddle mongers here. We may just have to make something up. Two average adults. Two average kids. Some luggage. (Skinny, sixties, people!) Thanks to all, so far. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Mon May 8 16:09:10 2017 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 23:09:10 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Weight...almost there References: <004101d2c823$02905670$07b10350$@homecall.co.uk> <02c101d2c830$275b83a0$76128ae0$@att.net> Simon, for more help why not contact the AH Club in France (http://www.club-healey.com/). In my experience French car clubs are more than willing to help. Peter On 08/05/2017 20:20, Richard J. Hockert wrote: > The weight that is quoted by the factory is not real world. Put your BJ8 on > some scales. True weight is about 2,750 pounds. > > > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Simon Lachlan > *Sent:* Monday, May 08, 2017 12:46 PM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* [Healeys] BJ8 Weight...almost there > > > > Seems like:- > > 1. I was being thick > 2. The difference in weight is the fuel etc > > Simple when you think about it?.just got to think. > > Is there a maximum permitted all up weight? > > I can?t think what that would matter in Healey terms, but we?re talking the > worst kind of Eurocratic form filling-twaddle mongers here. We may just have to > make something up. Two average adults. Two average kids. Some luggage. (Skinny, > sixties, people!) > > Thanks to all, so far. > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig From bjcap at optonline.net Mon May 8 16:53:59 2017 From: bjcap at optonline.net (carroll phillips) Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 18:53:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] rear license plate mounting References: Im going to say left unpainted , here is a pic of an original 67 BJ8 showing unpainted blanking fasteners . Carroll Phillips -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100_5185.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 359017 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon May 8 19:05:25 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 21:05:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Powder coated frame in Portland Oregon Well my friends there is a story unfolding in Portland Oregon on the Austin Healey front. Seems that my spies have found a frame in a powder coating shop. Shop workers have no idea what the frame belongs to but appears from Wikileaks sources that it is a 100 chassis. Looks like the new color may be a light green. More updates when they become available or someone on the list admits to this as there own workmanship. Enjoy the rest of your day Perry Sent from my iPhone From jc9821 at msn.com Tue May 9 12:36:23 2017 From: jc9821 at msn.com (John and Judy Carter) Date: Tue, 9 May 2017 18:36:23 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 weight References: BJ8 weight with 2 slim adults,weekend luggage and fuel was 3,050 lbs. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, May 9, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 144 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: BJ8 weight (Oudesluys) 2. importing a car from canada to USA (i erbs) 3. Re: BJ8 Weight...almost there (Richard J. Hockert) 4. Re: BJ8 Weight...almost there (Peter Dzwig) 5. Re: rear license plate mounting (carroll phillips) 6. Powder coated frame in Portland Oregon (Perry) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 20:05:55 +0200 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 weight Normally: Kerbside weight is with all fluids i.e. oil, coolant, brake fluid, windscreen washer fluid, airco fluid i.a. and a full tank of petrol but no luggage and occupants. Maximum permissable weight includes this plus occupants and luggage to the max. Emty car, no fluids, occupants, luggage or any other load. However many countries use different definitions and/or regulations for registration, so do check before what they actually mean. Kees Oudesluijs Op 8-5-2017 om 18:47 schreef Simon Lachlan: > > My BMC manual says:- > > Unladed weight:- 1,080kg/2,380lb > > Kerbside weight:- 1,115kg/2,460lb > > In my simple way I thought that this was:- > > Empty car:- 1,080kg > > Fully/max laden car:- 1,115kg > > A little thought shows that there is only 35kg/77lbs difference > between the two. Not much of a load. What am I missing? > > This is all to do with my nephew getting his car registered for use in > France. He?s on temporary/import plates at the moment, but they won?t > last forever? > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Mail Archives - team.net www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl Healeys list: member options for user coudesluijs at chello.nl autox.team.net Unsubscribe: By clicking on the Unsubscribe button, a confirmation message will be emailed to you. This message will have a link that you should click on to ... > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 11:53:26 -0700 From: i erbs To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] importing a car from canada to USA Message-ID: I'm looking into buying a Frog eye sprite from Canada. I need advice on transporting it from Manitoba to Portland, OR. Any recommendations on companies and the process to get through customs. I have thought about a road trip, but still to figure out customs. I have read the website, but it does not make a lot of sense to me Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 14:20:26 -0500 From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Healey List'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Weight...almost there The weight that is quoted by the factory is not real world. Put your BJ8 on some scales. True weight is about 2,750 pounds. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Monday, May 08, 2017 12:46 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Weight...almost there Seems like:- 1. I was being thick 2. The difference in weight is the fuel etc Simple when you think about it..just got to think. Is there a maximum permitted all up weight? I can't think what that would matter in Healey terms, but we're talking the worst kind of Eurocratic form filling-twaddle mongers here. We may just have to make something up. Two average adults. Two average kids. Some luggage. (Skinny, sixties, people!) Thanks to all, so far. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 23:09:10 +0100 From: Peter Dzwig To: , 'Simon Lachlan' , 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Weight...almost there Simon, for more help why not contact the AH Club in France (http://www.club-healey.com/). In my experience French car clubs are more than willing to help. Peter On 08/05/2017 20:20, Richard J. Hockert wrote: > The weight that is quoted by the factory is not real world. Put your BJ8 on > some scales. True weight is about 2,750 pounds. > > > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Simon Lachlan > *Sent:* Monday, May 08, 2017 12:46 PM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* [Healeys] BJ8 Weight...almost there > > > > Seems like:- > > 1. I was being thick > 2. The difference in weight is the fuel etc > > Simple when you think about it?.just got to think. > > Is there a maximum permitted all up weight? > > I can?t think what that would matter in Healey terms, but we?re talking the > worst kind of Eurocratic form filling-twaddle mongers here. We may just have to > make something up. Two average adults. Two average kids. Some luggage. (Skinny, > sixties, people!) > > Thanks to all, so far. > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 18:53:59 -0400 (EDT) From: carroll phillips To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear license plate mounting Im going to say left unpainted , here is a pic of an original 67 BJ8 showing unpainted blanking fasteners . Carroll Phillips -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100_5185.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 359017 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 8 May 2017 21:05:25 -0400 From: Perry To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Powder coated frame in Portland Oregon Well my friends there is a story unfolding in Portland Oregon on the Austin Healey front. Seems that my spies have found a frame in a powder coating shop. Shop workers have no idea what the frame belongs to but appears from Wikileaks sources that it is a 100 chassis. Looks like the new color may be a light green. More updates when they become available or someone on the list admits to this as there own workmanship. Enjoy the rest of your day Perry Sent from my iPhone ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 144 **************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 9 19:51:15 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 9 May 2017 18:51:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clip and ferrule for manifold drain pipes Anyone got photos for the proper arrangement of these? They are item# 36 on this page: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28856&SortOrder=460 My BJ8 never had them, so the drain tubes just hung loose off the manifold. This has never presented a problem--that I know of--but I might be taking my pan off and thought I'd add these to sweeten the deal. They also appear to take a longer pan bolt--does it really matter? TIA, Bob From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 10 17:07:53 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 10 May 2017 16:07:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux I was at my favorite local parts house today and noticed, as reported by others that VR1 is back on the shelf after mysteriously disappearing a year or so ago. Good deal, I think, then I noticed the label is slightly different than the stock I bought a year or so ago; in particular, 'HIGH ZINC' is shown prominently on the front label (my stash doesn't). Also, the 'new' stuff is rated SAE SJ only, whereas my bottles say 'EXCEEDS API SERVICE SGCD And All Pending API Gasoline Categories Exceeds API Services SN/SM/SL' The cam makers generally say that SN and SM are not suitable for flat tappet engines (not enough zinc and phosphorous). SN/SM--dunno about SL--are supposedly OK for engines with catalytic converters, which implies less zinc. Anybody know for certain know what gives? My theories are: 1) Valvoline pulled their stock and simply relabeled their product SJ to make it clear it shouldn't be used in cars with cats 2) The old VR1 WAS acceptable for cars with cats, implying zinc content of no more than 800PPM or so, and they have reformulated the oil with more ZDDP, which required the relabeling. I hope this isn't the case, as I bought a boatload of it because it appeared to be an off-the-shelf oil with decent zinc and phosphorous content. The plot thickens (it's now 20W-60). Bob From fmags at cox.net Wed May 10 17:57:23 2017 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Wed, 10 May 2017 18:57:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] clip and ferrule for manifold drain pipes. Bob, I don't have the clip and ferrule on those pipes on my BJ8. In fact, mine don't match the ones shown in Moss' catelog. Theirs are short straight pipes. Mine are quite long and bend to horizontal, go for 3-4 inches, then bend vertically downward. They are original. They were plugged when I first got the car and I was able to unplug them with some thin wire when I took them off the manifold, so you might want to check that. I also connected some rubber fuel line to the ends and ran the hose below the frame rail; not stock but a good way to prevent a fire. Dripping fuel out of those pipes so close the the exhaust manifold looks like a fire waiting to happen... Frank Sent from my iPad From manifold at telus.net Wed May 10 21:21:14 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Wed, 10 May 2017 20:21:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] clip and ferrule for manifold drain pipes. References: 8cJVd4gVUYaZ18cJWdThEi Hello, I have a BT7 and I don't know if the set up is the same as BJ8. I believe the two lines you are referring to are drains from the intake manifold perhaps to handle a flooding situation. The thin drain tubes are not straight as shown in the parts catalogue and manuals. From leaving the intake manifold they are bent towards the block and then turn straight down to about an inch below the seam between the block and the oil pan. The two clips, item 33 on Plate AG are attached to the block with a nut onto a 1" bolt used to attach the oil pan. See item 8 on Plate AC for the two longer oil pan bolts. The drain lines are bent through a series of 90 degrees until they travel straight down and through the hole in item 33. If the BJ8 is the same as the BT7 these drawings should be applicable. Good luck.... Harold -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Magnusson Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2017 4:57 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] clip and ferrule for manifold drain pipes. Bob, I don't have the clip and ferrule on those pipes on my BJ8. In fact, mine don't match the ones shown in Moss' catelog. Theirs are short straight pipes. Mine are quite long and bend to horizontal, go for 3-4 inches, then bend vertically downward. They are original. They were plugged when I first got the car and I was able to unplug them with some thin wire when I took them off the manifold, so you might want to check that. I also connected some rubber fuel line to the ends and ran the hose below the frame rail; not stock but a good way to prevent a fire. Dripping fuel out of those pipes so close the the exhaust manifold looks like a fire waiting to happen... Frank Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Plate AC.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 174743 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Plate AG.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 160255 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed May 10 23:53:52 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 10 May 2017 22:53:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux References: So... to add to the mystery! I purchased a case back in 2012 (check the 6/13/2016 label date) and another case when the issue of VR1 becoming unavailable in California surfaced. The attached photo shows the older label on the right and the newer one on the left with the "High Zinc" label plastered over the original text. I haven't bought the new 20W-60 SJ oil Bob mentions, however, I could have sworn I saw VR1 20W-50 at O'Reilly's a month ago. WTF? Has anyone contacted the company to ask what's up? John -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2017 4:08 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux I was at my favorite local parts house today and noticed, as reported by others that VR1 is back on the shelf after mysteriously disappearing a year or so ago. Good deal, I think, then I noticed the label is slightly different than the stock I bought a year or so ago; in particular, 'HIGH ZINC' is shown prominently on the front label (my stash doesn't). Also, the 'new' stuff is rated SAE SJ only, whereas my bottles say 'EXCEEDS API SERVICE SGCD And All Pending API Gasoline Categories Exceeds API Services SN/SM/SL' The cam makers generally say that SN and SM are not suitable for flat tappet engines (not enough zinc and phosphorous). SN/SM--dunno about SL--are supposedly OK for engines with catalytic converters, which implies less zinc. Anybody know for certain know what gives? My theories are: 1) Valvoline pulled their stock and simply relabeled their product SJ to make it clear it shouldn't be used in cars with cats 2) The old VR1 WAS acceptable for cars with cats, implying zinc content of no more than 800PPM or so, and they have reformulated the oil with more ZDDP, which required the relabeling. I hope this isn't the case, as I bought a boatload of it because it appeared to be an off-the-shelf oil with decent zinc and phosphorous content. The plot thickens (it's now 20W-60). Bob _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: VR!_Labels.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1384606 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu May 11 03:06:46 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 11:06:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux References: I am not a 100% sure but I think the highest spec oil to be used in classic car engines is SG/SH. 20W60 may interfere with the oil flow as 20w50 is the usual specified oil for classic cars. The higher the numbers the thicker the oil hence a higher oil pressure but a reduced flow. Oil flow however is all important in an engine, more than pressure (within limits of course). Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-5-2017 om 1:07 schreef Bob Spidell: > I was at my favorite local parts house today and noticed, as reported > by others that VR1 is back on the shelf after mysteriously > disappearing a year or so ago. Good deal, I think, then I noticed the > label is slightly different than the stock I bought a year or so ago; > in particular, 'HIGH ZINC' is shown prominently on the front label (my > stash doesn't). Also, the 'new' stuff is rated SAE SJ only, whereas > my bottles say 'EXCEEDS API SERVICE SGCD And All Pending API Gasoline > Categories Exceeds API Services SN/SM/SL' The cam makers generally > say that SN and SM are not suitable for flat tappet engines (not > enough zinc and phosphorous). SN/SM--dunno about SL--are supposedly > OK for engines with catalytic converters, which implies less zinc. > > Anybody know for certain know what gives? My theories are: > > 1) Valvoline pulled their stock and simply relabeled their product SJ > to make it clear it shouldn't be used in cars with cats > > 2) The old VR1 WAS acceptable for cars with cats, implying zinc > content of no more than 800PPM or so, and they have reformulated the > oil with more ZDDP, which required the relabeling. I hope this isn't > the case, as I bought a boatload of it because it appeared to be an > off-the-shelf oil with decent zinc and phosphorous content. > > The plot thickens (it's now 20W-60). > > Bob From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu May 11 06:37:42 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 8:37:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux 20/50 is and has been available all along in Western Pa. That was several weeks ago---it is 20/50 and is now marked "High Zinc" across the top just below the spout. tom ---- John Spaur wrote: ============= So... to add to the mystery! I purchased a case back in 2012 (check the 6/13/2016 label date) and another case when the issue of VR1 becoming unavailable in California surfaced. The attached photo shows the older label on the right and the newer one on the left with the "High Zinc" label plastered over the original text. I haven't bought the new 20W-60 SJ oil Bob mentions, however, I could have sworn I saw VR1 20W-50 at O'Reilly's a month ago. WTF? Has anyone contacted the company to ask what's up? John -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2017 4:08 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux I was at my favorite local parts house today and noticed, as reported by others that VR1 is back on the shelf after mysteriously disappearing a year or so ago. Good deal, I think, then I noticed the label is slightly different than the stock I bought a year or so ago; in particular, 'HIGH ZINC' is shown prominently on the front label (my stash doesn't). Also, the 'new' stuff is rated SAE SJ only, whereas my bottles say 'EXCEEDS API SERVICE SGCD And All Pending API Gasoline Categories Exceeds API Services SN/SM/SL' The cam makers generally say that SN and SM are not suitable for flat tappet engines (not enough zinc and phosphorous). SN/SM--dunno about SL--are supposedly OK for engines with catalytic converters, which implies less zinc. Anybody know for certain know what gives? My theories are: 1) Valvoline pulled their stock and simply relabeled their product SJ to make it clear it shouldn't be used in cars with cats 2) The old VR1 WAS acceptable for cars with cats, implying zinc content of no more than 800PPM or so, and they have reformulated the oil with more ZDDP, which required the relabeling. I hope this isn't the case, as I bought a boatload of it because it appeared to be an off-the-shelf oil with decent zinc and phosphorous content. The plot thickens (it's now 20W-60). Bob _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 11 07:26:39 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 06:26:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux References: <16dddfdd-a1b8-c0d8-ff2a-7c2a73ed57d3@chello.nl> Uh... the '20W-60' was a (bad) joke, in reference to 'The plot thickens.' But, good point anyway, Kees. bs On 5/11/2017 2:06 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > I am not a 100% sure but I think the highest spec oil to be used in > classic car engines is SG/SH. 20W60 may interfere with the oil flow as > 20w50 is the usual specified oil for classic cars. The higher the > numbers the thicker the oil hence a higher oil pressure but a reduced > flow. Oil flow however is all important in an engine, more than > pressure (within limits of course). > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 11-5-2017 om 1:07 schreef Bob Spidell: >> I was at my favorite local parts house today and noticed, as reported >> by others that VR1 is back on the shelf after mysteriously >> disappearing a year or so ago. Good deal, I think, then I noticed >> the label is slightly different than the stock I bought a year or so >> ago; in particular, 'HIGH ZINC' is shown prominently on the front >> label (my stash doesn't). Also, the 'new' stuff is rated SAE SJ >> only, whereas my bottles say 'EXCEEDS API SERVICE SGCD And All >> Pending API Gasoline Categories Exceeds API Services SN/SM/SL' The >> cam makers generally say that SN and SM are not suitable for flat >> tappet engines (not enough zinc and phosphorous). SN/SM--dunno about >> SL--are supposedly OK for engines with catalytic converters, which >> implies less zinc. >> >> Anybody know for certain know what gives? My theories are: >> >> 1) Valvoline pulled their stock and simply relabeled their product SJ >> to make it clear it shouldn't be used in cars with cats >> >> 2) The old VR1 WAS acceptable for cars with cats, implying zinc >> content of no more than 800PPM or so, and they have reformulated the >> oil with more ZDDP, which required the relabeling. I hope this isn't >> the case, as I bought a boatload of it because it appeared to be an >> off-the-shelf oil with decent zinc and phosphorous content. >> >> The plot thickens (it's now 20W-60). >> >> Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 11 07:50:19 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 06:50:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pan Mysteries Got a couple of real mysteries here: 1) Oil pans on the 6-cyl cars--don't know about the 100s--have a small, er, something--tab?--spot-welded on the inside bottom in front of the baffle. I can't for the life of me think of any (obvious) purpose for this but, as usual, there must be a reason else BMC accountants wouldn't have allowed an extra half-quid in parts and labor to install it (attached photo 1). Guesses? 2) The pans all have a fairly large 'dimple,' for lack of a better term punched in the front on the left-hand side (photo 2). All I can think of is it must have something to do with the way the pans were stamped, as they appear to be made from a single piece of sheet metal. I think if it's for reinforcement, why not a couple or, better yet, one at each corner. Any guesses? Bob -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Pan Tab.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 147343 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Pan Dimple.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 162139 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 11 07:51:13 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 06:51:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux References: <20170511083742.LAZI2.13609.root@pamxwww08-z01> Soooooooo ... Reformulation, or just relabel? Bob On 5/11/2017 5:37 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > 20/50 is and has been available all along in Western Pa. That was several weeks ago---it is 20/50 and is now marked "High Zinc" across the top just below the spout. > tom > ---- John Spaur wrote: > > ============= > So... to add to the mystery! I purchased a case back in 2012 (check the > 6/13/2016 label date) and another case when the issue of VR1 becoming > unavailable in California surfaced. The attached photo shows the older label > on the right and the newer one on the left with the "High Zinc" label > plastered over the original text. I haven't bought the new 20W-60 SJ oil Bob > mentions, however, I could have sworn I saw VR1 20W-50 at O'Reilly's a month > ago. > > WTF? Has anyone contacted the company to ask what's up? > > John > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2017 4:08 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux > > I was at my favorite local parts house today and noticed, as reported by > others that VR1 is back on the shelf after mysteriously disappearing a year > or so ago. Good deal, I think, then I noticed the label is slightly > different than the stock I bought a year or so ago; in particular, 'HIGH > ZINC' is shown prominently on the front label (my stash doesn't). Also, the > 'new' stuff is rated SAE SJ only, whereas my bottles say 'EXCEEDS API > SERVICE SGCD And All Pending API Gasoline Categories Exceeds API Services > SN/SM/SL' The cam makers generally say that SN and SM are not suitable for > flat tappet engines (not enough zinc and phosphorous). SN/SM--dunno about > SL--are supposedly OK for engines with catalytic converters, which implies > less zinc. > > Anybody know for certain know what gives? My theories are: > > 1) Valvoline pulled their stock and simply relabeled their product SJ to > make it clear it shouldn't be used in cars with cats > > 2) The old VR1 WAS acceptable for cars with cats, implying zinc content of > no more than 800PPM or so, and they have reformulated the oil with more > ZDDP, which required the relabeling. I hope this isn't the case, as I > bought a boatload of it because it appeared to be an off-the-shelf oil with > decent zinc and phosphorous content. > > The plot thickens (it's now 20W-60). > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net > > From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Thu May 11 10:39:39 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 17:39:39 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs Hi, We shall be doing a few things to my nephew's BJ8 next week. (Assuming we can get its (new) genny to charge). Now, so far as we know, it's engine is pretty stock except it's running a Pertronix electronic ignition and an Ignitor/Pertronix hot(ter) coil. Any advice as to which plugs? What gap? Where to set the timing? (I'll be using a timing light). Have a thought, or a giggle, on Monday 10:00 GMT when I'll be taking a generator, a (gun-shaped) timing light, numerous wires and other menacing sundries through airport security. Thank you, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu May 11 10:43:19 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 12:43:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux References: <16dddfdd-a1b8-c0d8-ff2a-7c2a73ed57d3@chello.nl> I thought it was pretty funny. Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: May-11-17 9:27 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux Uh... the '20W-60' was a (bad) joke, in reference to 'The plot thickens.' But, good point anyway, Kees. bs On 5/11/2017 2:06 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > I am not a 100% sure but I think the highest spec oil to be used in > classic car engines is SG/SH. 20W60 may interfere with the oil flow as > 20w50 is the usual specified oil for classic cars. The higher the > numbers the thicker the oil hence a higher oil pressure but a reduced > flow. Oil flow however is all important in an engine, more than > pressure (within limits of course). > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 11-5-2017 om 1:07 schreef Bob Spidell: >> I was at my favorite local parts house today and noticed, as reported >> by others that VR1 is back on the shelf after mysteriously >> disappearing a year or so ago. Good deal, I think, then I noticed >> the label is slightly different than the stock I bought a year or so >> ago; in particular, 'HIGH ZINC' is shown prominently on the front >> label (my stash doesn't). Also, the 'new' stuff is rated SAE SJ >> only, whereas my bottles say 'EXCEEDS API SERVICE SGCD And All >> Pending API Gasoline Categories Exceeds API Services SN/SM/SL' The >> cam makers generally say that SN and SM are not suitable for flat >> tappet engines (not enough zinc and phosphorous). SN/SM--dunno about >> SL--are supposedly OK for engines with catalytic converters, which >> implies less zinc. >> >> Anybody know for certain know what gives? My theories are: >> >> 1) Valvoline pulled their stock and simply relabeled their product SJ >> to make it clear it shouldn't be used in cars with cats >> >> 2) The old VR1 WAS acceptable for cars with cats, implying zinc >> content of no more than 800PPM or so, and they have reformulated the >> oil with more ZDDP, which required the relabeling. I hope this isn't >> the case, as I bought a boatload of it because it appeared to be an >> off-the-shelf oil with decent zinc and phosphorous content. >> >> The plot thickens (it's now 20W-60). >> >> Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu May 11 11:48:05 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 13:48:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease References: <1694106203.3123076.1481785023101.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1694106203.3123076.1481785023101@mail.yahoo.com> Hi all, Late last year there were several posts recommending Penrite Steering Box Lube. This is hard to find up here in the Great White North. I am going to be in California next week in the Napa/Stockton area and if possible would pick some up. Anyone know of supplier in that area? MIrek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Derek Job Sent: December-15-16 3:16 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease Probably not if you have got most of it out.. However you should not put 'grease' in the steering box because it doesn't flow, it gets pushed around and compacts instead of lubricating. Cornhead 'grease' and Penrite steering box lube are not actually grease, they are very very thick oils which flow and lubricate. Derek. On Thu, Dec 15, 2016 at 6:57 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: I remember a while ago the talk on the list about lubrication for the steering box. There was a good argument for Cornhead grease, so I got some. Tonight I removed the fill plug from the steering box and found a what looked to be a green high pressure grease in there. I could not figure any other way to clean out the grease than taking the cover off and mechanically removing it. (with a popsicle stick and paper towels) I got most of it out. By the way, the steering box/shaft has not been installed in the car yet. It was not hard to get the grease out as the was very little in there. Just enough to cove the gears. Operation of the steering itself was very smooth and inspection reveals little wear inside. I was just wondering. It will be very easy to fill the box now and just pop the cover on. My question is, do you think the residual grease will be a problem mixing with the cornhead grease? What else should I look for while I have the cover off? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 11 12:37:50 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 11:37:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs References: <000001d2ca75$2fa3e420$8eebac60$@homecall.co.uk> might want to re-polarize or check the voltage regulator. It may have been damaged with the charging issues you are having. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, May 11, 2017 at 9:39 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > Hi, > > We shall be doing a few things to my nephew?s BJ8 next week. (Assuming we > can get its (new) genny to charge). > > Now, so far as we know, it?s engine is pretty stock except it?s running a > Pertronix electronic ignition and an Ignitor/Pertronix hot(ter) coil. > > Any advice as to which plugs? > > What gap? > > Where to set the timing? (I?ll be using a timing light). > > Have a thought, or a giggle, on Monday 10:00 GMT when I?ll be taking a > generator, a (gun-shaped) timing light, numerous wires and other menacing > sundries through airport security. > > Thank you, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 11 12:39:00 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 11:39:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs References: <000001d2ca75$2fa3e420$8eebac60$@homecall.co.uk> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSJxCNLgL2w How to check a voltage regulator Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, May 11, 2017 at 11:37 AM, i erbs wrote: > might want to re-polarize or check the voltage regulator. It may have been > damaged with the charging issues you are having. > > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, May 11, 2017 at 9:39 AM, Simon Lachlan < > simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote: > >> Hi, >> >> We shall be doing a few things to my nephew?s BJ8 next week. (Assuming we >> can get its (new) genny to charge). >> >> Now, so far as we know, it?s engine is pretty stock except it?s running a >> Pertronix electronic ignition and an Ignitor/Pertronix hot(ter) coil. >> >> Any advice as to which plugs? >> >> What gap? >> >> Where to set the timing? (I?ll be using a timing light). >> >> Have a thought, or a giggle, on Monday 10:00 GMT when I?ll be taking a >> generator, a (gun-shaped) timing light, numerous wires and other menacing >> sundries through airport security. >> >> Thank you, >> >> Simon >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Thu May 11 12:55:51 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 19:55:51 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs References: <000001d2ca75$2fa3e420$8eebac60$@homecall.co.uk> Thanks for this Ira. Now, just to be sure?. We think the charging problem lies in the genny.(It?s failed every test). We?ll replace it and, hopefully, move on!! Then, amongst other things, we?ll look at the timing and the plugs. ie as a tuning, not a charging, issue. So:- Which plugs? What gap? What timing? Thanks, Simon From: i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com] Sent: 11 May 2017 19:38 To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs might want to re-polarize or check the voltage regulator. It may have been damaged with the charging issues you are having. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words Hi, We shall be doing a few things to my nephew?s BJ8 next week. (Assuming we can get its (new) genny to charge). Now, so far as we know, it?s engine is pretty stock except it?s running a Pertronix electronic ignition and an Ignitor/Pertronix hot(ter) coil. Any advice as to which plugs? What gap? Where to set the timing? (I?ll be using a timing light). Have a thought, or a giggle, on Monday 10:00 GMT when I?ll be taking a generator, a (gun-shaped) timing light, numerous wires and other menacing sundries through airport security. Thank you, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 11 13:12:12 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 12:12:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] side curtains Howdy all, As we inch closer to driving weather in the Pacific NW we are dricing to the Northwest Meet in the Dalles, OR rain or shine, shine been all week until today and this weekend when rain returns. I have fitted a Smoothline hard top, but my side curtains do not fit. I resealed it with replacement rubber. The curtains where recently purchased and restored by me. There just does not seem to be enough adjustment in the brackets to make them fit even close. Can I get some photos of your brackets and windows in place from inside the car? Thanks all and hope for sun Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 11 13:19:33 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 12:19:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs References: <000001d2ca75$2fa3e420$8eebac60$@homecall.co.uk> <000c01d2ca88$362f53c0$a28dfb40$@homecall.co.uk> Champion N12YC .025 gap (may be greater due to pertronix) The manual reads 15 degrees BTDC Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, May 11, 2017 at 11:55 AM, Simon Lachlan < simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote: > Thanks for this Ira. > > Now, just to be sure?. > > We think the charging problem lies in the genny.(It?s failed every test). > We?ll replace it and, hopefully, move on!! > > Then, amongst other things, we?ll look at the timing and the plugs. ie as > a tuning, not a charging, issue. > > So:- > > Which plugs? > > What gap? > > What timing? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > > *From:* i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com] > *Sent:* 11 May 2017 19:38 > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs > > > > might want to re-polarize or check the voltage regulator. It may have been > damaged with the charging issues you are having. > > > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > On Thu, May 11, 2017 at 9:39 AM, Simon Lachlan < > simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote: > > Hi, > > We shall be doing a few things to my nephew?s BJ8 next week. (Assuming we > can get its (new) genny to charge). > > Now, so far as we know, it?s engine is pretty stock except it?s running a > Pertronix electronic ignition and an Ignitor/Pertronix hot(ter) coil. > > Any advice as to which plugs? > > What gap? > > Where to set the timing? (I?ll be using a timing light). > > Have a thought, or a giggle, on Monday 10:00 GMT when I?ll be taking a > generator, a (gun-shaped) timing light, numerous wires and other menacing > sundries through airport security. > > Thank you, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 11 13:21:24 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 12:21:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux References: <16dddfdd-a1b8-c0d8-ff2a-7c2a73ed57d3@chello.nl> <004501d2ca75$b2109020$1631b060$@sympatico.ca> ? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, May 11, 2017 at 9:43 AM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > I thought it was pretty funny. > Mirek > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: May-11-17 9:27 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux > > Uh... the '20W-60' was a (bad) joke, in reference to 'The plot > thickens.' But, good point anyway, Kees. > > bs > > > On 5/11/2017 2:06 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > > I am not a 100% sure but I think the highest spec oil to be used in > > classic car engines is SG/SH. 20W60 may interfere with the oil flow as > > 20w50 is the usual specified oil for classic cars. The higher the > > numbers the thicker the oil hence a higher oil pressure but a reduced > > flow. Oil flow however is all important in an engine, more than > > pressure (within limits of course). > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > > Op 11-5-2017 om 1:07 schreef Bob Spidell: > >> I was at my favorite local parts house today and noticed, as reported > >> by others that VR1 is back on the shelf after mysteriously > >> disappearing a year or so ago. Good deal, I think, then I noticed > >> the label is slightly different than the stock I bought a year or so > >> ago; in particular, 'HIGH ZINC' is shown prominently on the front > >> label (my stash doesn't). Also, the 'new' stuff is rated SAE SJ > >> only, whereas my bottles say 'EXCEEDS API SERVICE SGCD And All > >> Pending API Gasoline Categories Exceeds API Services SN/SM/SL' The > >> cam makers generally say that SN and SM are not suitable for flat > >> tappet engines (not enough zinc and phosphorous). SN/SM--dunno about > >> SL--are supposedly OK for engines with catalytic converters, which > >> implies less zinc. > >> > >> Anybody know for certain know what gives? My theories are: > >> > >> 1) Valvoline pulled their stock and simply relabeled their product SJ > >> to make it clear it shouldn't be used in cars with cats > >> > >> 2) The old VR1 WAS acceptable for cars with cats, implying zinc > >> content of no more than 800PPM or so, and they have reformulated the > >> oil with more ZDDP, which required the relabeling. I hope this isn't > >> the case, as I bought a boatload of it because it appeared to be an > >> off-the-shelf oil with decent zinc and phosphorous content. > >> > >> The plot thickens (it's now 20W-60). > >> > >> Bob > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Thu May 11 13:59:43 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 21:59:43 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs References: <000001d2ca75$2fa3e420$8eebac60$@homecall.co.uk> Simon I think you should check in that stuff. I once tried to to take a diff to a Sprite as hand luggage, it didn't work, had to leave it at the airport. I came back after a couple of days with a prepared bag to check it in. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 11 maj 2017 kl. 18:39 skrev Simon Lachlan : > > Hi, > We shall be doing a few things to my nephew?s BJ8 next week. (Assuming we can get its (new) genny to charge). > Now, so far as we know, it?s engine is pretty stock except it?s running a Pertronix electronic ignition and an Ignitor/Pertronix hot(ter) coil. > Any advice as to which plugs? > What gap? > Where to set the timing? (I?ll be using a timing light). > Have a thought, or a giggle, on Monday 10:00 GMT when I?ll be taking a generator, a (gun-shaped) timing light, numerous wires and other menacing sundries through airport security. > Thank you, > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per at schoerner.se > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ggilliam at usol.com Thu May 11 14:11:40 2017 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 16:11:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? A while back there was information on a bleeder line extension for the clutch slave cylinder...does anyone know the particulars of the construction, such as length and fittings required, a picture perhaps? Also, the side curtains for my Longbridge BN4 have just been laying in the boot for many years..would someone have a picture of the storage bag they should be held in? The front brackets on mine look home made..I'd like to see what they should really look like. Where the brackets removed for storage so the side curtains could lay flat together? Thanks for the help, Gordy From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 11 20:20:52 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 19:20:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs References: <000001d2ca75$2fa3e420$8eebac60$@homecall.co.uk> <000c01d2ca88$362f53c0$a28dfb40$@homecall.co.uk> Which plugs? I use Champion RN12YC; others have good results with NGK BP6ES What gap? 0.025" is nominal, you can go a couple thou more with a Pertronix (I use 0.028") What timing? 15degBTDC @ 600RPM with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged at the carburettor (you'll need an advance meter as there is only the TDC mark on the balancer) On 5/11/2017 11:55 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Thanks for this Ira. > > Now, just to be sure?. > > We think the charging problem lies in the genny.(It?s failed every > test). We?ll replace it and, hopefully, move on!! > > Then, amongst other things, we?ll look at the timing and the plugs. ie > as a tuning, not a charging, issue. > > So:- > > Which plugs? > > What gap? > > What timing? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > *From:*i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com] > *Sent:* 11 May 2017 19:38 > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs > > might want to re-polarize or check the voltage regulator. It may have > been damaged with the charging issues you are having. > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, May 11, 2017 at 9:39 AM, Simon Lachlan > wrote: > > Hi, > > We shall be doing a few things to my nephew?s BJ8 next week. > (Assuming we can get its (new) genny to charge). > > Now, so far as we know, it?s engine is pretty stock except it?s > running a Pertronix electronic ignition and an Ignitor/Pertronix > hot(ter) coil. > > Any advice as to which plugs? > > What gap? > > Where to set the timing? (I?ll be using a timing light). > > Have a thought, or a giggle, on Monday 10:00 GMT when I?ll be > taking a generator, a (gun-shaped) timing light, numerous wires > and other menacing sundries through airport security. > > Thank you, > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu May 11 22:12:13 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 21:12:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease References: <1694106203.3123076.1481785023101.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1694106203.3123076.1481785023101@mail.yahoo.com> <005401d2ca7e$bea7be40$3bf73ac0$@sympatico.ca> Mirek, No need to come to California for Penrite. Buy Land Rover Swivel Housing Grease. It has been recommend on the list many times and, although I have never tried Penrite, I believe it is the same for all intents and purposes. You need to heat it in hot water in order to use it. Google STC3435 just as you see it typed, no spaces. Upper or lowercase works. It?s in my car?s steering box which has not leaked since 2013. However, I am getting ready to drive my car this spring and I am sure, now that I wrote this, it will start leaking as any good Healey does. :) John ?62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 10:48 AM To: 'Derek Job' ; 'Michael MacLean' Cc: 'Healeys Help' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease Hi all, Late last year there were several posts recommending Penrite Steering Box Lube. This is hard to find up here in the Great White North. I am going to be in California next week in the Napa/Stockton area and if possible would pick some up. Anyone know of supplier in that area? MIrek -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 11 22:28:33 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 21:28:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? References: <2ac6915a3e0915ea6e4657988a21d5fb@usol.com> Here's a shot of the business end. Sorry, not gonna pull my transmission cover to get the other end ;) ... it's just a fitting into the clutch slave. This was produced by the late Doug Reid, aka 'Mr. Finespanner.' I think the best part was the simple but rugged bracket that was bolted to the bellhousing. Discussion here: http://www.ahexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,184927 Bob On 5/11/2017 1:11 PM, ggilliam at usol.com wrote: > > A while back there was information on a bleeder line extension for > the clutch slave cylinder...does anyone know the particulars of the > construction, such as length and fittings required, a picture perhaps? > > Also, the side curtains for my Longbridge BN4 have just been laying > in the boot for many years..would someone have a picture of the > storage bag they should be held in? The front brackets on mine look > home made..I'd like to see what they should really look like. Where > the brackets removed for storage so the side curtains could lay flat > together? > > Thanks for the help, > > Gordy > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Bleeder.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 130527 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 11 22:34:31 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 21:34:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Cornhead Grease References: <1694106203.3123076.1481785023101.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1694106203.3123076.1481785023101@mail.yahoo.com> <005401d2ca7e$bea7be40$3bf73ac0$@sympatico.ca> Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: i erbs Date: Thu, May 11, 2017 at 2:00 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease To: Mirek Sharp Cc: Derek Job , Michael MacLean < rrengineer.mike at att.net>, Healeys Help North American Distributors as per penrite's site [image: Inline image 1] I ordered it online Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, May 11, 2017 at 10:48 AM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > Hi all, Late last year there were several posts recommending Penrite > Steering Box Lube. This is hard to find up here in the Great White North. > I am going to be in California next week in the Napa/Stockton area and if > possible would pick some up. Anyone know of supplier in that area? > > > > MIrek > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Derek > Job > *Sent:* December-15-16 3:16 AM > *To:* Michael MacLean > *Cc:* Healeys Help > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease > > > > Probably not if you have got most of it out.. However you should not put > 'grease' in the steering box because it doesn't flow, it gets pushed around > and compacts instead of lubricating. Cornhead 'grease' and Penrite steering > box lube are not actually grease, they are very very thick oils which flow > and lubricate. > > > > Derek. > > > > On Thu, Dec 15, 2016 at 6:57 AM, Michael MacLean > wrote: > > I remember a while ago the talk on the list about lubrication for the > steering box. There was a good argument for Cornhead grease, so I got > some. Tonight I removed the fill plug from the steering box and found a > what looked to be a green high pressure grease in there. I could not > figure any other way to clean out the grease than taking the cover off and > mechanically removing it. (with a popsicle stick and paper towels) I got > most of it out. By the way, the steering box/shaft has not been installed > in the car yet. It was not hard to get the grease out as the was very > little in there. Just enough to cove the gears. Operation of the steering > itself was very smooth and inspection reveals little wear inside. I was > just wondering. It will be very easy to fill the box now and just pop the > cover on. My question is, do you think the residual grease will be a > problem mixing with the cornhead grease? What else should I look for while > I have the cover off? > > Mike MacLean > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 108977 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Thu May 11 23:02:17 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 22:02:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pan Mysteries References: <9b033d74-e9f3-4706-33f7-4160915d0ca8@comcast.net> I've wondered the same thing! I eagerly await the wisdom of the wise to enlighten us. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 6:50 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Pan Mysteries Got a couple of real mysteries here: 1) Oil pans on the 6-cyl cars--don't know about the 100s--have a small, er, something--tab?--spot-welded on the inside bottom in front of the baffle. I can't for the life of me think of any (obvious) purpose for this but, as usual, there must be a reason else BMC accountants wouldn't have allowed an extra half-quid in parts and labor to install it (attached photo 1). Guesses? 2) The pans all have a fairly large 'dimple,' for lack of a better term punched in the front on the left-hand side (photo 2). All I can think of is it must have something to do with the way the pans were stamped, as they appear to be made from a single piece of sheet metal. I think if it's for reinforcement, why not a couple or, better yet, one at each corner. Any guesses? Bob From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Thu May 11 23:06:31 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 22:06:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clip and ferrule for manifold drain pipes References: Bob, here's the best photo I have of the front tube. The rear is similar only in mirror image of the front. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2017 6:51 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Clip and ferrule for manifold drain pipes Anyone got photos for the proper arrangement of these? They are item# 36 on this page: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28856&SortOrde r=460 My BJ8 never had them, so the drain tubes just hung loose off the manifold. This has never presented a problem--that I know of--but I might be taking my pan off and thought I'd add these to sweeten the deal. They also appear to take a longer pan bolt--does it really matter? TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Manifold drain 001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 168052 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Thu May 11 23:08:27 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Thu, 11 May 2017 22:08:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clip and ferrule for manifold drain pipes References: Also, here's a picture of the tabs in place on my fresh block. You can see which pan bolts are used in this shot. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2017 6:51 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Clip and ferrule for manifold drain pipes Anyone got photos for the proper arrangement of these? They are item# 36 on this page: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28856&SortOrde r=460 My BJ8 never had them, so the drain tubes just hung loose off the manifold. This has never presented a problem--that I know of--but I might be taking my pan off and thought I'd add these to sweeten the deal. They also appear to take a longer pan bolt--does it really matter? TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 0429171335.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 88160 bytes Desc: not available URL: From per at schoerner.se Fri May 12 03:14:55 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 11:14:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Pan Mysteries References: <9b033d74-e9f3-4706-33f7-4160915d0ca8@comcast.net> Hi It suddenly struck me, haven't thought about it before, the tab might be for the dipstick to rest on. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 11 maj 2017 kl. 15:50 skrev Bob Spidell : > > Got a couple of real mysteries here: > > 1) Oil pans on the 6-cyl cars--don't know about the 100s--have a small, er, something--tab?--spot-welded on the inside bottom in From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri May 12 04:32:41 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 06:32:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? References: <2ac6915a3e0915ea6e4657988a21d5fb@usol.com> I was fortunate to get his clutch bleeder extension for my BJ8 before Mr. Reid's untimely passing a few years ago. To my knowledge, no one is carrying on the production of these extensions, but it was the inspiration for my attempt just within the last week to reproduce the idea on my MG Midget. My local auto parts store was able to provide me with a pre-made hard line with fittings on each end to accommodate screwing into the bleeder threads on the slave cylinder, and to attach the bleed screw to the other end. It works fine to bleed that inaccessible bleed port on the cylinder from a point next to the clutch reservoir. The only problem is that the line is a copper alloy, which is susceptible to work hardening and fatigue cracking from vibrations from the engine, and is a bit too long. There is no convenient place on the Midget engine to secure the line after it leaves the slave cylinder and still provide access to the bleeder. The excess length required a few bends to accommodate it. It's still a work in progress, I think. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ggilliam at usol.com Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 4:12 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? A while back there was information on a bleeder line extension for the clutch slave cylinder...does anyone know the particulars of the construction, such as length and fittings required, a picture perhaps? Also, the side curtains for my Longbridge BN4 have just been laying in the boot for many years..would someone have a picture of the storage bag they should be held in? The front brackets on mine look home made..I'd like to see what they should really look like. Where the brackets removed for storage so the side curtains could lay flat together? Thanks for the help, Gordy From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri May 12 04:36:17 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 06:36:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pan Mysteries References: <9b033d74-e9f3-4706-33f7-4160915d0ca8@comcast.net> <04b401d2cadc$edf1fa40$c9d5eec0$@roadrunner.com> Since the C-series engine was also used on other cars, perhaps the excess parts and dimples were to accommodate them, not Healeys (?) Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 6:50 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Pan Mysteries Got a couple of real mysteries here: 1) Oil pans on the 6-cyl cars--don't know about the 100s--have a small, er, something--tab?--spot-welded on the inside bottom in front of the baffle. I can't for the life of me think of any (obvious) purpose for this but, as usual, there must be a reason else BMC accountants wouldn't have allowed an extra half-quid in parts and labor to install it (attached photo 1). Guesses? 2) The pans all have a fairly large 'dimple,' for lack of a better term punched in the front on the left-hand side (photo 2). All I can think of is it must have something to do with the way the pans were stamped, as they appear to be made from a single piece of sheet metal. I think if it's for reinforcement, why not a couple or, better yet, one at each corner. Any guesses? Bob _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri May 12 04:49:18 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 06:49:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? References: <2ac6915a3e0915ea6e4657988a21d5fb@usol.com> <79ed1f6d-0fc4-f478-50d6-9373f8b7bd63@comcast.net> I installed a complete set of his brake lines and clutch slave extension. They fit perfectly. The Slave extension proved to be a lifesaver in bleeding the clutch. Unfortunately, it is my understanding that after Doug passed on to be with Donald, his heirs mistakenly junked his jigs, etc. so no more can easily be manufactured. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 12:29 AM To: ggilliam at usol.com; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? Here's a shot of the business end. Sorry, not gonna pull my transmission cover to get the other end ;) ... it's just a fitting into the clutch slave. This was produced by the late Doug Reid, aka 'Mr. Finespanner.' I think the best part was the simple but rugged bracket that was bolted to the bellhousing. Discussion here: http://www.ahexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,184927 Bob On 5/11/2017 1:11 PM, ggilliam at usol.com wrote: > > A while back there was information on a bleeder line extension for > the clutch slave cylinder...does anyone know the particulars of the > construction, such as length and fittings required, a picture perhaps? > > Also, the side curtains for my Longbridge BN4 have just been laying > in the boot for many years..would someone have a picture of the > storage bag they should be held in? The front brackets on mine look > home made..I'd like to see what they should really look like. Where > the brackets removed for storage so the side curtains could lay flat > together? > > Thanks for the help, > > Gordy > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri May 12 04:52:02 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 6:52:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs BP6? I was always told to use BP5ES a cooler plug as I understand it. ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= Which plugs? I use Champion RN12YC; others have good results with NGK BP6ES What gap? 0.025" is nominal, you can go a couple thou more with a Pertronix (I use 0.028") What timing? 15degBTDC @ 600RPM with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged at the carburettor (you'll need an advance meter as there is only the TDC mark on the balancer) On 5/11/2017 11:55 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Thanks for this Ira. > > Now, just to be sure?. > > We think the charging problem lies in the genny.(It?s failed every > test). We?ll replace it and, hopefully, move on!! > > Then, amongst other things, we?ll look at the timing and the plugs. ie > as a tuning, not a charging, issue. > > So:- > > Which plugs? > > What gap? > > What timing? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > *From:*i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com] > *Sent:* 11 May 2017 19:38 > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs > > might want to re-polarize or check the voltage regulator. It may have > been damaged with the charging issues you are having. > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, May 11, 2017 at 9:39 AM, Simon Lachlan > wrote: > > Hi, > > We shall be doing a few things to my nephew?s BJ8 next week. > (Assuming we can get its (new) genny to charge). > > Now, so far as we know, it?s engine is pretty stock except it?s > running a Pertronix electronic ignition and an Ignitor/Pertronix > hot(ter) coil. > > Any advice as to which plugs? > > What gap? > > Where to set the timing? (I?ll be using a timing light). > > Have a thought, or a giggle, on Monday 10:00 GMT when I?ll be > taking a generator, a (gun-shaped) timing light, numerous wires > and other menacing sundries through airport security. > > Thank you, > > Simon > > From drmasucci at comcast.net Fri May 12 05:05:37 2017 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 07:05:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 References: <20170327041550.Q9GEP.11688.root@cdptpa-web12> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.83ced4e6-546f-4184-93e9-558992bd613c@mail.outlook.com> <1646379694.45194543.1492254766630.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <8858cdb7-8eec-c0a3-2d62-29a672d1d20e@comcast.net> <06fe01d2b670$35fa1560$a1ee4020$@roadrunner.com> Hi all, A few weeks back I mentioned to the list that I?m considering using a Welch DWR8 cam. Based on responses and more research I think I will go with the DWR1 with the bucket followers and longer pushrods. I also plan to use the high capacity pump on my mostly stock engine. I was considering using the roller rockers, but am not sure if that?s going to make any significant improvement. I know it will buy a couple of ponies due to less friction, but is there any other significant advantage on a basically stock engine. Would I be wasting my money on something fancy that really has modest benefit? The DWR1 cam provides 0.252? cam lift. According to Welch, the valve lift with standard rockers would be 0.358?, and would not need pockets machined into the block. Based on the 1.65:1 ratio of the roller rockers, the valve lift will be 0.416?. I believe that will require pockets in the block. Does anyone have opinions on this combination? The roller rocker assembly is over $1200 not including getting into the US from the UK. Is there a better place in the engine to spend those dollars? Thanks all!! Dave 64 BJ8 72 XJ6 72 Bonneville > On Apr 16, 2017, at 1:13 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > Bob, your post is of interest. I just sent my engine to the painter today with DWR 85mm pistons; DWR1 cam, hollow tappets and matching pushrods; and DWR lightened flywheel with 9.5? clutch. Already had the DWR high capacity oil pump. Plus new DWR reverse, 1st and cluster gears and all new synchros. I?m keeping the stock intake and exhaust manifolds, and the stock carbs. My car was originally a non-OD cars (now so equipped), so it has the 3.54 rear. Really looking forward to experiencing how it will drive. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 8:38 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 > > Neglected to mention I have a Lempert 3.54 diff in my car, so the lower torque curve is helpful. > > On 4/15/2017 7:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> Hi Dave, >> >> I just finished a rebuild on my BJ8; my engine--with over 100K miles--was in similar condition to yours with significant cam lobe and lifter wear. I installed a DWR1 cam; it's more appropriate if you're really ' looking for stock or mild tune only.' The DWR1 is 'slightly better than stock', in DWR's word's, and should be most appropriate for a street/touring car as the torque curve is lower. I don't think you'll gain much if anything with the DWR8 unless you at least use headers and port your head--or buy one of DWR's alloy heads--and then additional tuning is required. Steve G.--on this list, I believe--is doing a build with a DWR8 cam, but he has headers and the rest of his engine is likely tuned for the higher torque/power band. The DWR1 doesn't want to go much over 4,500RPM, but I do mostly long distance touring so I'm usually running 2,500RPM, give-or-take. I do a lot of driving '100 miles from nowhere' so I generally go pretty easy on my drivetrain. >> >> DWR recommends their High Capacity oil pump when using their gun-drilled cam, unless you're going to spend time over 6,000RPM (in which case you'll probably want their billet crankshaft, conrods, pistons, etc.). Since you had cam/lifter damage, be sure to clean all components--e.g. rocker shaft--thoroughly to remove any debris. My builder was adamant about that. You can use either 'standard' lifters with your current pushrods, or get bucket lifters and their pushrods. I went with standard. I sourced an adjustable, vernier timing set from Australia; my builder said the cam did require some adjustment. >> >> DWR Support has a chat facility; they are very responsive but, of course, there's a significant time difference. Whichever cam you use, please let us know your results. >> >> Bob >> >>> Hi All, >>> >>> Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8 engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine. While all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and lifters were damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern oils and the lack of zinc, and since that's the only part of the engine that didn't do well, I am assuming that must be why. >>> >>> So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam reground, or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and based on the wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am looking for stock or mild tune only. >>> >>> I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new to the process. I know that if I change something like the cam parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components. >>> >>> I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I understand that I will have to machine pockets into the block for valve clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock parameters as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to determine how to select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is drilled to feed oil to the lobes, do I need to make other modifications to support that feature? >>> >>> So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list. Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey? Any opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like to hear that also. >>> >>> As usual, thanks in advance for any help. >>> >>> Dave >>> 64 BJ8 >>> 72 XJ6 >>> 72 Bonneville >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >>> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> > > <0415170955.jpg>_______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drmasucci at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From linwoodrose at mac.com Fri May 12 06:12:55 2017 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 08:12:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? References: <2ac6915a3e0915ea6e4657988a21d5fb@usol.com> <053e01d2cb0b$161e9ef0$425bdcd0$@rr.com> Dennis Welch sells a stainless steel flexible hose for this purpose. I have one on my car. Lin Sent from my iPad > On May 12, 2017, at 6:32 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > I was fortunate to get his clutch bleeder extension for my BJ8 before Mr. > Reid's untimely passing a few years ago. To my knowledge, no one is > carrying on the production of these extensions, but it was the inspiration > for my attempt just within the last week to reproduce the idea on my MG > Midget. My local auto parts store was able to provide me with a pre-made > hard line with fittings on each end to accommodate screwing into the bleeder > threads on the slave cylinder, and to attach the bleed screw to the other > end. It works fine to bleed that inaccessible bleed port on the cylinder > from a point next to the clutch reservoir. The only problem is that the > line is a copper alloy, which is susceptible to work hardening and fatigue > cracking from vibrations from the engine, and is a bit too long. There is > no convenient place on the Midget engine to secure the line after it leaves > the slave cylinder and still provide access to the bleeder. The excess > length required a few bends to accommodate it. It's still a work in > progress, I think. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > ggilliam at usol.com > Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 4:12 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? > > > A while back there was information on a bleeder line extension for the > clutch slave cylinder...does anyone know the particulars of the > construction, such as length and fittings required, a picture perhaps? > > Also, the side curtains for my Longbridge BN4 have just been laying in the > boot for many years..would someone have a picture of the storage bag they > should be held in? The front brackets on mine look home made..I'd like to > see what they should really look like. Where the brackets removed for > storage so the side curtains could lay flat together? > > Thanks for the help, > > Gordy > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com > From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri May 12 08:08:31 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 07:08:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 References: <20170327041550.Q9GEP.11688.root@cdptpa-web12> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.83ced4e6-546f-4184-93e9-558992bd613c@mail.outlook.com> <1646379694.45194543.1492254766630.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <8858cdb7-8eec-c0a3-2d62-29a672d1d20e@comcast.net> <06fe01d2b670$35fa1560$a1ee4020$@roadrunner.com> <65EA4E15-900C-45A8-BAD0-069BA6F4EDFD@comcast.net> According to the DWR website, any of their cams other than the DWR1 require releaving the pistons. My engine was just finished with a DWR1 cam with his bucket followers and lifters, and I?ve had a DWR high capacity oil pump for years. I also had DWR 85mm pistons installed. Unfortunately it is not yet back in the car so I can?t give you any driving impressions. You can talk to Dave Nock, though; he runs a DWR1 cam, as I recall. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Masucci Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 4:06 AM To: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 Hi all, A few weeks back I mentioned to the list that I?m considering using a Welch DWR8 cam. Based on responses and more research I think I will go with the DWR1 with the bucket followers and longer pushrods. I also plan to use the high capacity pump on my mostly stock engine. I was considering using the roller rockers, but am not sure if that?s going to make any significant improvement. I know it will buy a couple of ponies due to less friction, but is there any other significant advantage on a basically stock engine. Would I be wasting my money on something fancy that really has modest benefit? The DWR1 cam provides 0.252? cam lift. According to Welch, the valve lift with standard rockers would be 0.358?, and would not need pockets machined into the block. Based on the 1.65:1 ratio of the roller rockers, the valve lift will be 0.416?. I believe that will require pockets in the block. Does anyone have opinions on this combination? The roller rocker assembly is over $1200 not including getting into the US from the UK. Is there a better place in the engine to spend those dollars? Thanks all!! Dave 64 BJ8 72 XJ6 72 Bonneville Bob, your post is of interest. I just sent my engine to the painter today with DWR 85mm pistons; DWR1 cam, hollow tappets and matching pushrods; and DWR lightened flywheel with 9.5? clutch. Already had the DWR high capacity oil pump. Plus new DWR reverse, 1st and cluster gears and all new synchros. I?m keeping the stock intake and exhaust manifolds, and the stock carbs. My car was originally a non-OD cars (now so equipped), so it has the 3.54 rear. Really looking forward to experiencing how it will drive. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 8:38 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 Neglected to mention I have a Lempert 3.54 diff in my car, so the lower torque curve is helpful. On 4/15/2017 7:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: Hi Dave, I just finished a rebuild on my BJ8; my engine--with over 100K miles--was in similar condition to yours with significant cam lobe and lifter wear. I installed a DWR1 cam; it's more appropriate if you're really ' looking for stock or mild tune only.' The DWR1 is 'slightly better than stock', in DWR's word's, and should be most appropriate for a street/touring car as the torque curve is lower. I don't think you'll gain much if anything with the DWR8 unless you at least use headers and port your head--or buy one of DWR's alloy heads--and then additional tuning is required. Steve G.--on this list, I believe--is doing a build with a DWR8 cam, but he has headers and the rest of his engine is likely tuned for the higher torque/power band. The DWR1 doesn't want to go much over 4,500RPM, but I do mostly long distance touring so I'm usually running 2,500RPM, give-or-take. I do a lot of driving '100 miles from nowhere' so I generally go pretty easy on my drivetrain. DWR recommends their High Capacity oil pump when using their gun-drilled cam, unless you're going to spend time over 6,000RPM (in which case you'll probably want their billet crankshaft, conrods, pistons, etc.). Since you had cam/lifter damage, be sure to clean all components--e.g. rocker shaft--thoroughly to remove any debris. My builder was adamant about that. You can use either 'standard' lifters with your current pushrods, or get bucket lifters and their pushrods. I went with standard. I sourced an adjustable, vernier timing set from Australia; my builder said the cam did require some adjustment. DWR Support has a chat facility; they are very responsive but, of course, there's a significant time difference. Whichever cam you use, please let us know your results. Bob Hi All, Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8 engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine. While all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and lifters were damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern oils and the lack of zinc, and since that's the only part of the engine that didn't do well, I am assuming that must be why. So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam reground, or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and based on the wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am looking for stock or mild tune only. I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new to the process. I know that if I change something like the cam parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components. I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I understand that I will have to machine pockets into the block for valve clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock parameters as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to determine how to select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is drilled to feed oil to the lobes, do I need to make other modifications to support that feature? So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list. Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey? Any opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like to hear that also. As usual, thanks in advance for any help. Dave 64 BJ8 72 XJ6 72 Bonneville _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <0415170955.jpg>_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Fri May 12 08:22:58 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 07:22:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? References: 91XndF5pHYaZ191XodbeWH I recently got one from BCS in CA. David Knock is modifying it to resolve a few issues I had and it will work when needed. Also plan to install one of those Russell speed bleeders so can do the job single handed if necessary. rg -----Original Message----- From: ggilliam at usol.com Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 1:11 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? A while back there was information on a bleeder line extension for the clutch slave cylinder...does anyone know the particulars of the construction, such as length and fittings required, a picture perhaps? Also, the side curtains for my Longbridge BN4 have just been laying in the boot for many years..would someone have a picture of the storage bag they should be held in? The front brackets on mine look home made..I'd like to see what they should really look like. Where the brackets removed for storage so the side curtains could lay flat together? Thanks for the help, Gordy _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com From roggrace at telus.net Fri May 12 08:24:00 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 07:24:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Clutch bleeder? I recently got one from BCS in CA. David Knock is modifying it to resolve a few issues I had and it will work when needed. Also plan to install one of those Russell speed bleeders so can do the job single handed if necessary. rg -----Original Message----- From: ggilliam at usol.com Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 1:11 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? A while back there was information on a bleeder line extension for the clutch slave cylinder...does anyone know the particulars of the construction, such as length and fittings required, a picture perhaps? Also, the side curtains for my Longbridge BN4 have just been laying in the boot for many years..would someone have a picture of the storage bag they should be held in? The front brackets on mine look home made..I'd like to see what they should really look like. Where the brackets removed for storage so the side curtains could lay flat together? Thanks for the help, Gordy _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com From bspidell at comcast.net Fri May 12 08:26:47 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 07:26:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pan Mysteries References: <9b033d74-e9f3-4706-33f7-4160915d0ca8@comcast.net> Good thought! I've got my pan out; I'll see if I can tell if they line up, though, the front of the pans usually get bashed-in, which would cause the stick to ride up, methinks. Bob On 5/12/2017 2:14 AM, Per Schoerner wrote: > Hi > It suddenly struck me, haven't thought about it before, the tab might be for the dipstick to rest on. > > Per > > Skickat fr?n min iPhone > >> 11 maj 2017 kl. 15:50 skrev Bob Spidell : >> >> Got a couple of real mysteries here: >> >> 1) Oil pans on the 6-cyl cars--don't know about the 100s--have a small, er, something--tab?--spot-welded on the inside bottom in > From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri May 12 08:27:01 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 10:27:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Grille "Hood" identification I'm having difficulty remembering the difference(s) between an early (pre MkII) and later radiator grille hood (or top lip as some people describe them). I believe that both versions are made from stainless steel and have some recollection that the later version has 3 anchor nuts in its vertical (rear) flange (maybe both do). If anyone happens to have original examples of each to hand I would appreciate their comparing the 2 and letting me know the differences. Many thanks, Michael S -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri May 12 08:34:33 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 07:34:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? References: <2ac6915a3e0915ea6e4657988a21d5fb@usol.com> <053e01d2cb0b$161e9ef0$425bdcd0$@rr.com> "... copper alloy, which is susceptible to work hardening and fatigue cracking from vibrations from the engine" I sure hope not, as I'm using 'cupranickel' copper alloy lines in part of my brake system. According to the company I bought them from--yeah, I know--the alloy is not susceptible to work hardening. Supposedly, these lines are used by Aston Martin, I think Volvo and some others. I'm guilty of buying a lot of tricky things--tools, especially--that look like great ideas, but often end up on the shelf, never used. But, Doug's bleeder extension was about the best $30 I ever spent. Bob On 5/12/2017 3:32 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > I was fortunate to get his clutch bleeder extension for my BJ8 before Mr. > Reid's untimely passing a few years ago. To my knowledge, no one is > carrying on the production of these extensions, but it was the inspiration > for my attempt just within the last week to reproduce the idea on my MG > Midget. My local auto parts store was able to provide me with a pre-made > hard line with fittings on each end to accommodate screwing into the bleeder > threads on the slave cylinder, and to attach the bleed screw to the other > end. It works fine to bleed that inaccessible bleed port on the cylinder > from a point next to the clutch reservoir. The only problem is that the > line is a copper alloy, which is susceptible to work hardening and fatigue > cracking from vibrations from the engine, and is a bit too long. There is > no convenient place on the Midget engine to secure the line after it leaves > the slave cylinder and still provide access to the bleeder. The excess > length required a few bends to accommodate it. It's still a work in > progress, I think. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > ggilliam at usol.com > Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 4:12 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? > > > A while back there was information on a bleeder line extension for the > clutch slave cylinder...does anyone know the particulars of the > construction, such as length and fittings required, a picture perhaps? > > Also, the side curtains for my Longbridge BN4 have just been laying in the > boot for many years..would someone have a picture of the storage bag they > should be held in? The front brackets on mine look home made..I'd like to > see what they should really look like. Where the brackets removed for > storage so the side curtains could lay flat together? > > Thanks for the help, > > Gordy > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Fri May 12 08:32:37 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 14:32:37 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? References: <2ac6915a3e0915ea6e4657988a21d5fb@usol.com> Here are the dimensions for the Clutch Bleeder that I took from the ones made by Doug Reid. I have made three of those so far and they work very well. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of ggilliam at usol.com Sent: May 11, 2017 8:11 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? A while back there was information on a bleeder line extension for the clutch slave cylinder...does anyone know the particulars of the construction, such as length and fittings required, a picture perhaps? Also, the side curtains for my Longbridge BN4 have just been laying in the boot for many years..would someone have a picture of the storage bag they should be held in? The front brackets on mine look home made..I'd like to see what they should really look like. Where the brackets removed for storage so the side curtains could lay flat together? Thanks for the help, Gordy _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Slave Cylinder Bleeder Extension.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 270761 bytes Desc: Slave Cylinder Bleeder Extension.jpg URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri May 12 08:44:36 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 07:44:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs References: <20170512065202.HGB23.75227.root@pamxwww04-z01> I was going by some others' experience: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108884-AH-3000-sparkplugs&highlight=BP6ES I used the NGKs in my old Subaru, and they worked fine. Bob On 5/12/2017 3:52 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > BP6? I was always told to use BP5ES a cooler plug as I understand it. > > > ---- Bob Spidell wrote: > > ============= > Which plugs? I use Champion RN12YC; others have good > results with NGK BP6ES > > What gap? 0.025" is nominal, you can go a couple > thou more with a Pertronix (I use 0.028") > > What timing? 15degBTDC @ 600RPM with the vacuum advance disconnected and > plugged at the carburettor (you'll need an advance meter as there is > only the TDC mark on the balancer) > > > On 5/11/2017 11:55 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: >> Thanks for this Ira. >> >> Now, just to be sure?. >> >> We think the charging problem lies in the genny.(It?s failed every >> test). We?ll replace it and, hopefully, move on!! >> >> Then, amongst other things, we?ll look at the timing and the plugs. ie >> as a tuning, not a charging, issue. >> >> So:- >> >> Which plugs? >> >> What gap? >> >> What timing? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Simon >> >> *From:*i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com] >> *Sent:* 11 May 2017 19:38 >> *To:* Simon Lachlan >> *Cc:* Healey List >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs >> >> might want to re-polarize or check the voltage regulator. It may have >> been damaged with the charging issues you are having. >> >> >> Ira Erbs >> >> Portland,OR >> >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> On Thu, May 11, 2017 at 9:39 AM, Simon Lachlan >> wrote: >> >> Hi, >> >> We shall be doing a few things to my nephew?s BJ8 next week. >> (Assuming we can get its (new) genny to charge). >> >> Now, so far as we know, it?s engine is pretty stock except it?s >> running a Pertronix electronic ignition and an Ignitor/Pertronix >> hot(ter) coil. >> >> Any advice as to which plugs? >> >> What gap? >> >> Where to set the timing? (I?ll be using a timing light). >> >> Have a thought, or a giggle, on Monday 10:00 GMT when I?ll be >> taking a generator, a (gun-shaped) timing light, numerous wires >> and other menacing sundries through airport security. >> >> Thank you, >> >> Simon >> >> > > From bspidell at comcast.net Fri May 12 09:54:19 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 08:54:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 References: <20170327041550.Q9GEP.11688.root@cdptpa-web12> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.83ced4e6-546f-4184-93e9-558992bd613c@mail.outlook.com> <1646379694.45194543.1492254766630.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <8858cdb7-8eec-c0a3-2d62-29a672d1d20e@comcast.net> <06fe01d2b670$35fa1560$a1ee4020$@roadrunner.com> <65EA4E15-900C-45A8-BAD0-069BA6F4EDFD@comcast.net> I got: DWR1 cam with std. lifters, DWR HC oil pump and blew a wad on DWR pistons (85mm IIRC--0.045" over--but not sure). I sourced a vernier timing set from Australia--thanks Chris!--and the cam did require some adjustment to meet specs. I'm very happy with the engine's performance; this car is mostly a highway cruiser, so low-end torque and good mid-range is my preference. Bob On 5/12/2017 4:05 AM, David Masucci wrote: > Hi all, > > A few weeks back I mentioned to the list that I?m considering using a > Welch DWR8 cam. Based on responses and more research I think I will > go with the DWR1 with the bucket followers and longer pushrods. I also > plan to use the high capacity pump on my mostly stock engine. > > I was considering using the roller rockers, but am not sure if that?s > going to make any significant improvement. I know it will buy a couple > of ponies due to less friction, but is there any other significant > advantage on a basically stock engine. Would I be wasting my money on > something fancy that really has modest benefit? The DWR1 cam provides > 0.252? cam lift. According to Welch, the valve lift with standard > rockers would be 0.358?, and would not need pockets machined into the > block. Based on the 1.65:1 ratio of the roller rockers, the valve lift > will be 0.416?. I believe that will require pockets in the block. > > Does anyone have opinions on this combination? The roller rocker > assembly is over $1200 not including getting into the US from the UK. > Is there a better place in the engine to spend those dollars? > > Thanks all!! > Dave > > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > 72 Bonneville > > > > >> On Apr 16, 2017, at 1:13 AM, Bruce Steele > >> Bob, your post is of interest. I just sent my engine to the painter >> today with DWR 85mm pistons; DWR1 cam, hollow tappets and matching >> pushrods; and DWR lightened flywheel with 9.5? clutch. Already had >> the DWR high capacity oil pump. Plus new DWR reverse, 1^st and >> cluster gears and all new synchros. I?m keeping the stock intake and >> exhaust manifolds, and the stock carbs. My car was originally a >> non-OD cars (now so equipped), so it has the 3.54 rear. Really >> looking forward to experiencing how it will drive. >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]*On Behalf >> Of*Bob Spidell >> *Sent:*Saturday, April 15, 2017 8:38 AM >> *Subject:*Re: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 >> >> Neglected to mention I have a Lempert 3.54 diff in my car, so the >> lower torque curve is helpful. >> >> On 4/15/2017 7:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> >>> Hi Dave, >>> >>> I just finished a rebuild on my BJ8; my engine--with over 100K >>> miles--was in similar condition to yours with significant cam lobe >>> and lifter wear. I installed a DWR1 cam; it's more appropriate if >>> you're really ' looking for stock or mild tune only.' The DWR1 is >>> 'slightly better than stock', in DWR's word's, and should be most >>> appropriate for a street/touring car as the torque curve is lower. >>> I don't think you'll gain much if anything with the DWR8 unless you >>> at least use headers and port your head--or buy one of DWR's alloy >>> heads--and then additional tuning is required. Steve G.--on this >>> list, I believe--is doing a build with a DWR8 cam, but he has >>> headers and the rest of his engine is likely tuned for the higher >>> torque/power band. The DWR1 doesn't want to go much over 4,500RPM, >>> but I do mostly long distance touring so I'm usually running >>> 2,500RPM, give-or-take. I do a lot of driving '100 miles from >>> nowhere' so I generally go pretty easy on my drivetrain. >>> >>> DWR recommends their High Capacity oil pump when using their >>> gun-drilled cam, unless you're going to spend time over 6,000RPM (in >>> which case you'll probably want their billet crankshaft, conrods, >>> pistons, etc.). Since you had cam/lifter damage, be sure to clean >>> all components--e.g. rocker shaft--thoroughly to remove any debris. >>> My builder was adamant about that. You can use either 'standard' >>> lifters with your current pushrods, or get bucket lifters and their >>> pushrods. I went with standard. I sourced an adjustable, vernier >>> timing set from Australia; my builder said the cam did require some >>> adjustment. >>> >>> DWR Support has a chat facility; they are very responsive but, of >>> course, there's a significant time difference. Whichever cam you >>> use, please let us know your results. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> On 4/15/2017 4:12 AM,drmasucci at comcast.net >>>> Hi All, >>>> Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8 >>>> engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a >>>> full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine. >>>> While all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and >>>> lifters were damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern >>>> oils and the lack of zinc, and since that's the only part of the >>>> engine that didn't do well, I am assuming that must be why. >>>> So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam >>>> reground, or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and >>>> based on the wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am >>>> looking for stock or mild tune only. >>>> I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new >>>> to the process. I know that if I change something like the cam >>>> parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the >>>> valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components. >>>> I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I >>>> understand that I will have to machine pockets into the block for >>>> valve clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock >>>> parameters as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to >>>> determine how to select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is >>>> drilled to feed oil to the lobes, do I need to make other >>>> modifications to support that feature? >>>> So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list. >>>> Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey? Any >>>> opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my >>>> best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like >>>> to hear that also. >>>> As usual, thanks in advance for any help. >>>> Dave >>>> 64 BJ8 >>>> 72 XJ6 >>>> 72 Bonneville >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> SupportTeam.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> SupportTeam.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> <0415170955.jpg>_______________________________________________ >> SupportTeam.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drmasucci at comcast.net >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri May 12 10:13:21 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 18:13:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? References: <2ac6915a3e0915ea6e4657988a21d5fb@usol.com> <053e01d2cb0b$161e9ef0$425bdcd0$@rr.com> Why not use flexible brake hose with suitable fittings? The end can be fitted somehow to the bulhead or whatever suitable place. Kees Oudesluijs Op 12-5-2017 om 12:32 schreef BJ8Healeys: > I was fortunate to get his clutch bleeder extension for my BJ8 before Mr. > Reid's untimely passing a few years ago. To my knowledge, no one is > carrying on the production of these extensions, but it was the inspiration > for my attempt just within the last week to reproduce the idea on my MG > Midget. My local auto parts store was able to provide me with a pre-made > hard line with fittings on each end to accommodate screwing into the bleeder > threads on the slave cylinder, and to attach the bleed screw to the other > end. It works fine to bleed that inaccessible bleed port on the cylinder > from a point next to the clutch reservoir. The only problem is that the > line is a copper alloy, which is susceptible to work hardening and fatigue > cracking from vibrations from the engine, and is a bit too long. There is > no convenient place on the Midget engine to secure the line after it leaves > the slave cylinder and still provide access to the bleeder. The excess > length required a few bends to accommodate it. It's still a work in > progress, I think. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > ggilliam at usol.com > Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 4:12 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? > > > A while back there was information on a bleeder line extension for the > clutch slave cylinder...does anyone know the particulars of the > construction, such as length and fittings required, a picture perhaps? > > Also, the side curtains for my Longbridge BN4 have just been laying in the > boot for many years..would someone have a picture of the storage bag they > should be held in? The front brackets on mine look home made..I'd like to > see what they should really look like. Where the brackets removed for > storage so the side curtains could lay flat together? > > Thanks for the help, > > Gordy > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > From bspidell at comcast.net Fri May 12 11:09:58 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 10:09:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 References: <20170327041550.Q9GEP.11688.root@cdptpa-web12> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.83ced4e6-546f-4184-93e9-558992bd613c@mail.outlook.com> <1646379694.45194543.1492254766630.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <8858cdb7-8eec-c0a3-2d62-29a672d1d20e@comcast.net> <06fe01d2b670$35fa1560$a1ee4020$@roadrunner.com> <65EA4E15-900C-45A8-BAD0-069BA6F4EDFD@comcast.net> <06a201d2cb29$3d33ac60$b79b0520$@roadrunner.com> I'm running a DWR1 cam in my BJ8; about 250 miles so far. It pulls smooth--even with a 3.54 rearend--from idle up to 4K RPM, but seems to run out of breath much above 4,500 (not that I go there often anyway). One thing that I noticed, and didn't expect, is that when I decelerate in gear it seems to 'come off the cam' at about 2,500RPM or so; my Mustang GT does this quite noticeably at about 1,800RPM, but it has variable cam timing. My engine builder commented on the light ring loading from my 85mm DWR pistons; that, and their lighter weight and 3-ring design I believe reduce internal friction quite a bit. As (bad) luck would have it, I cracked my pan and had to pull it for repair, so got a couple shots of the cam and pistons in situ. Bob On 5/12/2017 7:08 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > According to the DWR website, any of their cams other than the DWR1 > require releaving the pistons. My engine was just finished with a > DWR1 cam with his bucket followers and lifters, and I?ve had a DWR > high capacity oil pump for years. I also had DWR 85mm pistons > installed. Unfortunately it is not yet back in the car so I can?t > give you any driving impressions. You can talk to Dave Nock, though; > he runs a DWR1 cam, as I recall. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *David Masucci > *Sent:* Friday, May 12, 2017 4:06 AM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 > > Hi all, > > A few weeks back I mentioned to the list that I?m considering using a > Welch DWR8 cam. Based on responses and more research I think I will > go with the DWR1 with the bucket followers and longer pushrods. I also > plan to use the high capacity pump on my mostly stock engine. > > I was considering using the roller rockers, but am not sure if that?s > going to make any significant improvement. I know it will buy a couple > of ponies due to less friction, but is there any other significant > advantage on a basically stock engine. Would I be wasting my money on > something fancy that really has modest benefit? The DWR1 cam provides > 0.252? cam lift. According to Welch, the valve lift with standard > rockers would be 0.358?, and would not need pockets machined into the > block. Based on the 1.65:1 ratio of the roller rockers, the valve lift > will be 0.416?. I believe that will require pockets in the block. > > Does anyone have opinions on this combination? The roller rocker > assembly is over $1200 not including getting into the US from the UK. > Is there a better place in the engine to spend those dollars? > > Thanks all!! > > Dave > > 64 BJ8 > > 72 XJ6 > > 72 Bonneville > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1235.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 123295 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri May 12 12:07:59 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 11:07:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? References: <520BCDA317C44A5DA8C02A5A465145D1@WINDOWST93OFP9> Great product. Any idea which one to order for our cars. I want to change my brake fluid this summer. This make it a less messy job. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, May 12, 2017 at 7:22 AM, Roger Grace wrote: > I recently got one from BCS in CA. > David Knock is modifying it to resolve a few issues I had and it will work > when needed. Also plan to install one of those Russell speed bleeders so > can do the job single handed if necessary. > rg > > > -----Original Message----- From: ggilliam at usol.com > Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 1:11 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? > > > A while back there was information on a bleeder line extension for the > clutch slave cylinder...does anyone know the particulars of the > construction, such as length and fittings required, a picture perhaps? > > Also, the side curtains for my Longbridge BN4 have just been laying in > the boot for many years..would someone have a picture of the storage bag > they should be held in? The front brackets on mine look home made..I'd > like to see what they should really look like. Where the brackets > removed for storage so the side curtains could lay flat together? > > Thanks for the help, > > Gordy > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. > http://www.avg.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Fri May 12 12:50:22 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 11:50:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux References: <20170511083742.LAZI2.13609.root@pamxwww08-z01> 8qWddWqo5gMSl8qWedU8tK My local Walmart in Canada still has the old lablel VR1 at C$7.97 ea. rg -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 6:51 AM To: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux Soooooooo ... Reformulation, or just relabel? Bob On 5/11/2017 5:37 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > 20/50 is and has been available all along in Western Pa. That was several > weeks ago---it is 20/50 and is now marked "High Zinc" across the top just > below the spout. > tom > ---- John Spaur wrote: > > ============= > So... to add to the mystery! I purchased a case back in 2012 (check the > 6/13/2016 label date) and another case when the issue of VR1 becoming > unavailable in California surfaced. The attached photo shows the older > label > on the right and the newer one on the left with the "High Zinc" label > plastered over the original text. I haven't bought the new 20W-60 SJ oil > Bob > mentions, however, I could have sworn I saw VR1 20W-50 at O'Reilly's a > month > ago. > > WTF? Has anyone contacted the company to ask what's up? > > John > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2017 4:08 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Redux Redux > > I was at my favorite local parts house today and noticed, as reported by > others that VR1 is back on the shelf after mysteriously disappearing a > year > or so ago. Good deal, I think, then I noticed the label is slightly > different than the stock I bought a year or so ago; in particular, 'HIGH > ZINC' is shown prominently on the front label (my stash doesn't). Also, > the > 'new' stuff is rated SAE SJ only, whereas my bottles say 'EXCEEDS API > SERVICE SGCD And All Pending API Gasoline Categories Exceeds API Services > SN/SM/SL' The cam makers generally say that SN and SM are not suitable > for > flat tappet engines (not enough zinc and phosphorous). SN/SM--dunno about > SL--are supposedly OK for engines with catalytic converters, which implies > less zinc. > > Anybody know for certain know what gives? My theories are: > > 1) Valvoline pulled their stock and simply relabeled their product SJ to > make it clear it shouldn't be used in cars with cats > > 2) The old VR1 WAS acceptable for cars with cats, implying zinc content of > no more than 800PPM or so, and they have reformulated the oil with more > ZDDP, which required the relabeling. I hope this isn't the case, as I > bought a boatload of it because it appeared to be an off-the-shelf oil > with > decent zinc and phosphorous content. > > The plot thickens (it's now 20W-60). > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri May 12 15:50:57 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 17:50:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? References: <2ac6915a3e0915ea6e4657988a21d5fb@usol.com> <053e01d2cb0b$161e9ef0$425bdcd0$@rr.com> <55e756b4-820b-2bb9-050f-7050a9c605a6@comcast.net> Brake lines (the pipes) are completely attached to the body/frame of the car so there is no significant relative motion between one part of the line and another. Any part of the line that is subject to flexing has a rubber hose (front wheels, rear axle). That avoids the problem of fatigue cracking. The clutch slave cylinder is attached to the engine/gearbox but the rest of the line is attached to the body/frame so there is constant relative motion as the engine moves on its mounts. That's why the clutch line has a hose from the slave to the body of the car. If my copper pipe clutch bleeder could be completely attached to the engine, like Doug's design, that would be better. Some alloys are more susceptible to work hardening and cracking than others. I don't know the composition of the copper pipe I used. I'm going to leave the pipe in place and monitor it to see how long it might take for problems to develop. It's sort of amazing that it took so long for someone to come up with a way to put the bleeder in a way-better location. During our return from Conclave in San Diego in 2008, my traveling companion complained that his clutch wasn't working so well in the high altitudes of Colorado. We suspected air in the line. Fortunately, he had Doug's extension installed. We stopped at a NAPA store for some clear tubing and silicone fluid. The bleeder made it a 5 minute job to bleed the clutch back to normal without having to screw around under the car. That experience convinced me, and when I got home I ordered the extension from Doug. I agree, it was well worth the money. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 10:35 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? "... copper alloy, which is susceptible to work hardening and fatigue cracking from vibrations from the engine" I sure hope not, as I'm using 'cupranickel' copper alloy lines in part of my brake system. According to the company I bought them from--yeah, I know--the alloy is not susceptible to work hardening. Supposedly, these lines are used by Aston Martin, I think Volvo and some others. I'm guilty of buying a lot of tricky things--tools, especially--that look like great ideas, but often end up on the shelf, never used. But, Doug's bleeder extension was about the best $30 I ever spent. Bob From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri May 12 17:16:40 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 19:16:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 so, how does all this boost the performance (speed, mileage, etc) over stock? tom ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= I got: DWR1 cam with std. lifters, DWR HC oil pump and blew a wad on DWR pistons (85mm IIRC--0.045" over--but not sure). I sourced a vernier timing set from Australia--thanks Chris!--and the cam did require some adjustment to meet specs. I'm very happy with the engine's performance; this car is mostly a highway cruiser, so low-end torque and good mid-range is my preference. Bob On 5/12/2017 4:05 AM, David Masucci wrote: > Hi all, > > A few weeks back I mentioned to the list that I?m considering using a > Welch DWR8 cam. Based on responses and more research I think I will > go with the DWR1 with the bucket followers and longer pushrods. I also > plan to use the high capacity pump on my mostly stock engine. > > I was considering using the roller rockers, but am not sure if that?s > going to make any significant improvement. I know it will buy a couple > of ponies due to less friction, but is there any other significant > advantage on a basically stock engine. Would I be wasting my money on > something fancy that really has modest benefit? The DWR1 cam provides > 0.252? cam lift. According to Welch, the valve lift with standard > rockers would be 0.358?, and would not need pockets machined into the > block. Based on the 1.65:1 ratio of the roller rockers, the valve lift > will be 0.416?. I believe that will require pockets in the block. > > Does anyone have opinions on this combination? The roller rocker > assembly is over $1200 not including getting into the US from the UK. > Is there a better place in the engine to spend those dollars? > > Thanks all!! > Dave > > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > 72 Bonneville > > > > >> On Apr 16, 2017, at 1:13 AM, Bruce Steele > >> Bob, your post is of interest. I just sent my engine to the painter >> today with DWR 85mm pistons; DWR1 cam, hollow tappets and matching >> pushrods; and DWR lightened flywheel with 9.5? clutch. Already had >> the DWR high capacity oil pump. Plus new DWR reverse, 1^st and >> cluster gears and all new synchros. I?m keeping the stock intake and >> exhaust manifolds, and the stock carbs. My car was originally a >> non-OD cars (now so equipped), so it has the 3.54 rear. Really >> looking forward to experiencing how it will drive. >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]*On Behalf >> Of*Bob Spidell >> *Sent:*Saturday, April 15, 2017 8:38 AM >> *Subject:*Re: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 >> >> Neglected to mention I have a Lempert 3.54 diff in my car, so the >> lower torque curve is helpful. >> >> On 4/15/2017 7:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> >>> Hi Dave, >>> >>> I just finished a rebuild on my BJ8; my engine--with over 100K >>> miles--was in similar condition to yours with significant cam lobe >>> and lifter wear. I installed a DWR1 cam; it's more appropriate if >>> you're really ' looking for stock or mild tune only.' The DWR1 is >>> 'slightly better than stock', in DWR's word's, and should be most >>> appropriate for a street/touring car as the torque curve is lower. >>> I don't think you'll gain much if anything with the DWR8 unless you >>> at least use headers and port your head--or buy one of DWR's alloy >>> heads--and then additional tuning is required. Steve G.--on this >>> list, I believe--is doing a build with a DWR8 cam, but he has >>> headers and the rest of his engine is likely tuned for the higher >>> torque/power band. The DWR1 doesn't want to go much over 4,500RPM, >>> but I do mostly long distance touring so I'm usually running >>> 2,500RPM, give-or-take. I do a lot of driving '100 miles from >>> nowhere' so I generally go pretty easy on my drivetrain. >>> >>> DWR recommends their High Capacity oil pump when using their >>> gun-drilled cam, unless you're going to spend time over 6,000RPM (in >>> which case you'll probably want their billet crankshaft, conrods, >>> pistons, etc.). Since you had cam/lifter damage, be sure to clean >>> all components--e.g. rocker shaft--thoroughly to remove any debris. >>> My builder was adamant about that. You can use either 'standard' >>> lifters with your current pushrods, or get bucket lifters and their >>> pushrods. I went with standard. I sourced an adjustable, vernier >>> timing set from Australia; my builder said the cam did require some >>> adjustment. >>> >>> DWR Support has a chat facility; they are very responsive but, of >>> course, there's a significant time difference. Whichever cam you >>> use, please let us know your results. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> On 4/15/2017 4:12 AM,drmasucci at comcast.net >>>> Hi All, >>>> Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8 >>>> engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a >>>> full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine. >>>> While all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and >>>> lifters were damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern >>>> oils and the lack of zinc, and since that's the only part of the >>>> engine that didn't do well, I am assuming that must be why. >>>> So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam >>>> reground, or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and >>>> based on the wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am >>>> looking for stock or mild tune only. >>>> I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new >>>> to the process. I know that if I change something like the cam >>>> parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the >>>> valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components. >>>> I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I >>>> understand that I will have to machine pockets into the block for >>>> valve clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock >>>> parameters as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to >>>> determine how to select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is >>>> drilled to feed oil to the lobes, do I need to make other >>>> modifications to support that feature? >>>> So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list. >>>> Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey? Any >>>> opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my >>>> best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like >>>> to hear that also. >>>> As usual, thanks in advance for any help. >>>> Dave >>>> 64 BJ8 >>>> 72 XJ6 >>>> 72 Bonneville >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> SupportTeam.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> SupportTeam.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> <0415170955.jpg>_______________________________________________ >> SupportTeam.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drmasucci at comcast.net >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri May 12 17:18:25 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 19:18:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs good to know as I have a set of 6's sitting in my tool chest. tom ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= I was going by some others' experience: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108884-AH-3000-sparkplugs&highlight=BP6ES I used the NGKs in my old Subaru, and they worked fine. Bob On 5/12/2017 3:52 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > BP6? I was always told to use BP5ES a cooler plug as I understand it. > > > ---- Bob Spidell wrote: > > ============= > Which plugs? I use Champion RN12YC; others have good > results with NGK BP6ES > > What gap? 0.025" is nominal, you can go a couple > thou more with a Pertronix (I use 0.028") > > What timing? 15degBTDC @ 600RPM with the vacuum advance disconnected and > plugged at the carburettor (you'll need an advance meter as there is > only the TDC mark on the balancer) > > > On 5/11/2017 11:55 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: >> Thanks for this Ira. >> >> Now, just to be sure?. >> >> We think the charging problem lies in the genny.(It?s failed every >> test). We?ll replace it and, hopefully, move on!! >> >> Then, amongst other things, we?ll look at the timing and the plugs. ie >> as a tuning, not a charging, issue. >> >> So:- >> >> Which plugs? >> >> What gap? >> >> What timing? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Simon >> >> *From:*i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com] >> *Sent:* 11 May 2017 19:38 >> *To:* Simon Lachlan >> *Cc:* Healey List >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs >> >> might want to re-polarize or check the voltage regulator. It may have >> been damaged with the charging issues you are having. >> >> >> Ira Erbs >> >> Portland,OR >> >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> On Thu, May 11, 2017 at 9:39 AM, Simon Lachlan >> wrote: >> >> Hi, >> >> We shall be doing a few things to my nephew?s BJ8 next week. >> (Assuming we can get its (new) genny to charge). >> >> Now, so far as we know, it?s engine is pretty stock except it?s >> running a Pertronix electronic ignition and an Ignitor/Pertronix >> hot(ter) coil. >> >> Any advice as to which plugs? >> >> What gap? >> >> Where to set the timing? (I?ll be using a timing light). >> >> Have a thought, or a giggle, on Monday 10:00 GMT when I?ll be >> taking a generator, a (gun-shaped) timing light, numerous wires >> and other menacing sundries through airport security. >> >> Thank you, >> >> Simon >> >> > > From YNOTINK at msn.com Fri May 12 17:29:06 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 23:29:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Pan Mysteries References: <9b033d74-e9f3-4706-33f7-4160915d0ca8@comcast.net> , <3775a1cb-3f1f-7e70-ea88-7bd3e9d183bc@comcast.net> I wonder if the "dimple" aligns with the oil pressure relief passage. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 2:26:47 PM To: Per Schoerner Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pan Mysteries Good thought! I've got my pan out; I'll see if I can tell if they line up, though, the front of the pans usually get bashed-in, which would cause the stick to ride up, methinks. Bob On 5/12/2017 2:14 AM, Per Schoerner wrote: > Hi > It suddenly struck me, haven't thought about it before, the tab might be for the dipstick to rest on. > > Per > > Skickat fr?n min iPhone > >> 11 maj 2017 kl. 15:50 skrev Bob Spidell : >> >> Got a couple of real mysteries here: >> >> 1) Oil pans on the 6-cyl cars--don't know about the 100s--have a small, er, something--tab?--spot-welded on the inside bottom in > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri May 12 17:50:06 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 16:50:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 References: <20170512191640.8DFKI.9624.root@pamxwww10-z01> No idea. The DWR1 cam is supposed to be 'slightly better than stock,' and the cylinders are bored 0.045" over stock, so I'd expect some improvement, but without a dyno it's hard to be precise. I haven't run a tank through yet, but I'd expect mileage to be a bit better; my engine was pretty weak before the overhaul. On 5/12/2017 4:16 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > so, how does all this boost the performance (speed, mileage, etc) over stock? > tom > ---- Bob Spidell wrote: > > ============= > I got: DWR1 cam with std. lifters, DWR HC oil pump and blew a wad on DWR > pistons (85mm IIRC--0.045" over--but not sure). I sourced a vernier > timing set from Australia--thanks Chris!--and the cam did require some > adjustment to meet specs. I'm very happy with the engine's performance; > this car is mostly a highway cruiser, so low-end torque and good > mid-range is my preference. > > Bob > > From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri May 12 19:11:37 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 21:11:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs References: <20170512065202.HGB23.75227.root@pamxwww04-z01> I've used RN12YC plugs and since 2012 the NGK BPR6ES and both work fine. I've seen no difference between them. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 10:45 AM To: Tom Felts; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 timing, gap, plugs I was going by some others' experience: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108884-AH-3000-sparkplugs&highlight=BP6ES I used the NGKs in my old Subaru, and they worked fine. Bob On 5/12/2017 3:52 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > BP6? I was always told to use BP5ES a cooler plug as I understand it. From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri May 12 19:15:14 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 21:15:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? References: <2ac6915a3e0915ea6e4657988a21d5fb@usol.com> <053e01d2cb0b$161e9ef0$425bdcd0$@rr.com> <87340d8e-7e0b-da6b-1a11-35e957189d42@chello.nl> I would if I could find a source. My local hydraulic hose manufacturer tells me he can't make a hose with fittings to fit the slave cylinder bleeder port and the bleeder at the other end. There may be pre-made brake hoses that would work. I just haven't been able to find any yet. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 12:13 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? Why not use flexible brake hose with suitable fittings? The end can be fitted somehow to the bulhead or whatever suitable place. Kees Oudesluijs From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri May 12 21:33:11 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 20:33:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Grille "Hood" identification References: If it is the part that looks like an air intake at the front of the bonnet it is chromed steel on my MKII ?62 BT7. John S. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 7:27 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Grille "Hood" identification I'm having difficulty remembering the difference(s) between an early (pre MkII) and later radiator grille hood (or top lip as some people describe them). I believe that both versions are made from stainless steel and have some recollection that the later version has 3 anchor nuts in its vertical (rear) flange (maybe both do). If anyone happens to have original examples of each to hand I would appreciate their comparing the 2 and letting me know the differences. Many thanks, Michael S -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri May 12 22:57:03 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 21:57:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? References: <2ac6915a3e0915ea6e4657988a21d5fb@usol.com> <053e01d2cb0b$161e9ef0$425bdcd0$@rr.com> <55e756b4-820b-2bb9-050f-7050a9c605a6@comcast.net> <057b01d2cb69$d7080f80$85182e80$@rr.com> Most likely a nickel-copper brake line: http://agscompany.com/product/european-nicopp-nickelcopper-brake-line-316-x- 12/ John S '62 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 10:35 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? "... copper alloy, which is susceptible to work hardening and fatigue cracking from vibrations from the engine" I sure hope not, as I'm using 'cupranickel' copper alloy lines in part of my brake system. According to the company I bought them from--yeah, I know--the alloy is not susceptible to work hardening. Supposedly, these lines are used by Aston Martin, I think Volvo and some others. I'm guilty of buying a lot of tricky things--tools, especially--that look like great ideas, but often end up on the shelf, never used. But, Doug's bleeder extension was about the best $30 I ever spent. Bob From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 13 07:24:42 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 13 May 2017 06:24:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? References: <2ac6915a3e0915ea6e4657988a21d5fb@usol.com> <053e01d2cb0b$161e9ef0$425bdcd0$@rr.com> <55e756b4-820b-2bb9-050f-7050a9c605a6@comcast.net> <057b01d2cb69$d7080f80$85182e80$@rr.com> <003001d2cba5$5dda5dc0$198f1940$@sbcglobal.net> I got a pre-made set for a BJ8 at Automec: https://www.automec.co.uk/ I'm installing it piecemeal, but so far everything has fit perfectly. Bob On 5/12/2017 9:57 PM, John Spaur wrote: > Most likely a nickel-copper brake line: > > > http://agscompany.com/product/european-nicopp-nickelcopper-brake-line-316-x- > 12/ > > John S > '62 BT7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 10:35 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder? > > "... copper alloy, which is susceptible to work hardening and fatigue > cracking from vibrations from the engine" > > I sure hope not, as I'm using 'cupranickel' copper alloy lines in part of my > brake system. According to the company I bought them from--yeah, I > know--the alloy is not susceptible to work hardening. Supposedly, these > lines are used by Aston Martin, I think Volvo and some others. > > I'm guilty of buying a lot of tricky things--tools, especially--that look > like great ideas, but often end up on the shelf, never used. But, Doug's > bleeder extension was about the best $30 I ever spent. > > Bob > > > From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 13 15:14:25 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 13 May 2017 14:14:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pan Mysteries References: <9b033d74-e9f3-4706-33f7-4160915d0ca8@comcast.net> <3775a1cb-3f1f-7e70-ea88-7bd3e9d183bc@comcast.net> I had a look today. The down tube for the pressure release valve is on the opposite (L/H) side of the dimple, and the dipstick appears to be suspended near the R/H side whereas the 'tab' is in the center. Good guesses, though. Bob On 5/12/2017 4:29 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > I wonder if the "dimple" aligns with the oil pressure relief passage. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Friday, May 12, 2017 2:26:47 PM > *To:* Per Schoerner > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Pan Mysteries > Good thought! I've got my pan out; I'll see if I can tell if they line > up, though, the front of the pans usually get bashed-in, which would > cause the stick to ride up, methinks. > > Bob > > > On 5/12/2017 2:14 AM, Per Schoerner wrote: > > Hi > > It suddenly struck me, haven't thought about it before, the tab > might be for the dipstick to rest on. > > > > Per > > > > Skickat fr?n min iPhone > > > >> 11 maj 2017 kl. 15:50 skrev Bob Spidell : > >> > >> Got a couple of real mysteries here: > >> > >> 1) Oil pans on the 6-cyl cars--don't know about the 100s--have a > small, er, something--tab?--spot-welded on the inside bottom in > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.brouillette at comcast.net Sat May 13 20:29:15 2017 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (mike brouillette) Date: Sat, 13 May 2017 22:29:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] My healey has found a new home Folks, It's been a fun 20+ years. My 59 BT7 was picked up today by the new owner who drove to my home in NH all the way from Baltimore. The funny thing is the conversation started with a hardtop I had for sale and led to us agreeing to a price on the BT7. Life goes on and as we all know, we are just caretakers of these cars and they will all have new homes somedays, and today was the day for mine to move on. What's going to replace it in the garage? I'm leaning toward finding a low mileage BMW Z3 to give me that ragtop fix we all need. Mike Brouillette -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun May 14 01:27:14 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 14 May 2017 09:27:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] My healey has found a new home References: <000001d2cc59$e2701e80$a7505b80$@comcast.net> A Mazda MX5/Miata would be quite an easier to maintain, cheaper, more reliable and more fun option. It also is a very well driving car, faster than the AH at present day comfort, frugality and safety Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-5-2017 om 4:29 schreef mike brouillette: > > Folks, > > It?s been a fun 20+ years. My 59 BT7 was picked up today > by the new owner who drove to my home in NH all the way from > Baltimore. The funny thing is the conversation started with a hardtop > I had for sale and led to us agreeing to a price on the BT7. Life > goes on and as we all know, we are just caretakers of these cars and > they will all have new homes somedays, and today was the day for mine > to move on. What?s going to replace it in the garage? I?m leaning > toward finding a low mileage BMW Z3 to give me that ragtop fix we all > need? > > Mike Brouillette > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun May 14 05:17:24 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 14 May 2017 7:17:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] My healey has found a new home But that is not what the Healey driving experience is about. Heck---why not go big and get a Jag XF if it is these things you want? ---- Oudesluys wrote: ============= A Mazda MX5/Miata would be quite an easier to maintain, cheaper, more reliable and more fun option. It also is a very well driving car, faster than the AH at present day comfort, frugality and safety Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-5-2017 om 4:29 schreef mike brouillette: > > Folks, > > It?s been a fun 20+ years. My 59 BT7 was picked up today > by the new owner who drove to my home in NH all the way from > Baltimore. The funny thing is the conversation started with a hardtop > I had for sale and led to us agreeing to a price on the BT7. Life > goes on and as we all know, we are just caretakers of these cars and > they will all have new homes somedays, and today was the day for mine > to move on. What?s going to replace it in the garage? I?m leaning > toward finding a low mileage BMW Z3 to give me that ragtop fix we all > need? > > Mike Brouillette > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From m.brouillette at comcast.net Sun May 14 05:49:59 2017 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (mike brouillette) Date: Sun, 14 May 2017 07:49:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] My healey has found a new home References: <20170514071724.7LMMO.5285.root@pamxwww11-z01> Trust me guys, a Miata isn't going in the garage. I'm an old Rx7 guy, and I have no interest in the kid brother of that great car. I already have a Z3 with 89,000 miles on it, but would like to find a low mileage example before they are no more. Possibly a M version, but you never know... -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2017 7:17 AM To: Oudesluys ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] My healey has found a new home But that is not what the Healey driving experience is about. Heck---why not go big and get a Jag XF if it is these things you want? ---- Oudesluys wrote: ============= A Mazda MX5/Miata would be quite an easier to maintain, cheaper, more reliable and more fun option. It also is a very well driving car, faster than the AH at present day comfort, frugality and safety Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-5-2017 om 4:29 schreef mike brouillette: > > Folks, > > It?s been a fun 20+ years. My 59 BT7 was picked up today > by the new owner who drove to my home in NH all the way from > Baltimore. The funny thing is the conversation started with a hardtop > I had for sale and led to us agreeing to a price on the BT7. Life > goes on and as we all know, we are just caretakers of these cars and > they will all have new homes somedays, and today was the day for mine > to move on. What?s going to replace it in the garage? I?m leaning > toward finding a low mileage BMW Z3 to give me that ragtop fix we all > need? > > Mike Brouillette > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sun May 14 09:10:25 2017 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 May 2017 11:10:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] My healey has found a new home Well congratulation and condolences. Probably not an easy decision, but great to hear you found a good home for your car. I think that may be the toughest part, finding a good home. As you say life goes on, keep having fun out there, we'll do the same and good luck with whatever choice is made. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 In a message dated 5/13/2017 8:03:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, m.brouillette at comcast.net writes: Folks, It?s been a fun 20+ years. My 59 BT7 was picked up today by the new owner who drove to my home in NH all the way from Baltimore. The funny thing is the conversation started with a hardtop I had for sale and led to us agreeing to a price on the BT7. Life goes on and as we all know, we are just caretakers of these cars and they will all have new homes somedays, and today was the day for mine to move on. What?s going to replace it in the garage? I?m leaning toward finding a low mileage BMW Z3 to give me that ragtop fix we all need? Mike Brouillette _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun May 14 10:57:54 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 14 May 2017 09:57:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] ZDDP in oil I found an interesting article about ZDDP in oil on the Amsoil website: https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/classic-and-vintage/articles/reduced-zddp-a nd-wear-protection/ John Spaur -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun May 14 11:09:03 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sun, 14 May 2017 13:09:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease References: <1694106203.3123076.1481785023101.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1694106203.3123076.1481785023101@mail.yahoo.com> <005401d2ca7e$bea7be40$3bf73ac0$@sympatico.ca> <000001d2cad5$f1f4c200$d5de4600$@sbcglobal.net> Thanks John, That is fast becoming my back-up plan. I will talk to the Nocks when I am in Stockton this week. From: John Spaur [mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net] Sent: May-12-17 12:12 AM To: 'Mirek Sharp'; 'Healeys' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease Mirek, No need to come to California for Penrite. Buy Land Rover Swivel Housing Grease. It has been recommend on the list many times and, although I have never tried Penrite, I believe it is the same for all intents and purposes. You need to heat it in hot water in order to use it. Google STC3435 just as you see it typed, no spaces. Upper or lowercase works. It?s in my car?s steering box which has not leaked since 2013. However, I am getting ready to drive my car this spring and I am sure, now that I wrote this, it will start leaking as any good Healey does. J John ?62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 10:48 AM To: 'Derek Job' ; 'Michael MacLean' Cc: 'Healeys Help' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease Hi all, Late last year there were several posts recommending Penrite Steering Box Lube. This is hard to find up here in the Great White North. I am going to be in California next week in the Napa/Stockton area and if possible would pick some up. Anyone know of supplier in that area? MIrek -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun May 14 12:40:00 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 14 May 2017 11:40:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] My healey has found a new home References: <20170514071724.7LMMO.5285.root@pamxwww11-z01> I'm with Kees on this one. The Miata is fun to drive.... isn't that what the Healey experience is supposed to be all about. Equating a Miata with a Jag XF is absurd. On Sun, May 14, 2017 at 4:17 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > But that is not what the Healey driving experience is about. Heck---why > not go big and get a Jag XF if it is these things you want? > > > ---- Oudesluys wrote: > > ============= > A Mazda MX5/Miata would be quite an easier to maintain, cheaper, more > reliable and more fun option. It also is a very well driving car, faster > than the AH at present day comfort, frugality and safety > Kees Oudesluijs > > Op 14-5-2017 om 4:29 schreef mike brouillette: > > > > Folks, > > > > It?s been a fun 20+ years. My 59 BT7 was picked up today > > by the new owner who drove to my home in NH all the way from > > Baltimore. The funny thing is the conversation started with a hardtop > > I had for sale and led to us agreeing to a price on the BT7. Life > > goes on and as we all know, we are just caretakers of these cars and > > they will all have new homes somedays, and today was the day for mine > > to move on. What?s going to replace it in the garage? I?m leaning > > toward finding a low mileage BMW Z3 to give me that ragtop fix we all > > need? > > > > Mike Brouillette > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun May 14 13:41:03 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sun, 14 May 2017 19:41:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease References: <1694106203.3123076.1481785023101.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1694106203.3123076.1481785023101@mail.yahoo.com> <005401d2ca7e$bea7be40$3bf73ac0$@sympatico.ca> <000001d2cad5$f1f4c200$d5de4600$@sbcglobal.net>, <01cb01d2ccd4$ca167c50$5e4374f0$@sympatico.ca> Bob Yule at Autofarm has used cornhead grease for many years without any issues. I started using it in my own car as well and have not had any problems and it has not leaked either. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Mirek Sharp Sent: May 14, 2017 5:09 PM To: 'John Spaur'; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease Thanks John, That is fast becoming my back-up plan. I will talk to the Nocks when I am in Stockton this week. From: John Spaur [mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net] Sent: May-12-17 12:12 AM To: 'Mirek Sharp'; 'Healeys' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease Mirek, No need to come to California for Penrite. Buy Land Rover Swivel Housing Grease. It has been recommend on the list many times and, although I have never tried Penrite, I believe it is the same for all intents and purposes. You need to heat it in hot water in order to use it. Google STC3435 just as you see it typed, no spaces. Upper or lowercase works. It?s in my car?s steering box which has not leaked since 2013. However, I am getting ready to drive my car this spring and I am sure, now that I wrote this, it will start leaking as any good Healey does. :) John ?62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 10:48 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease Hi all, Late last year there were several posts recommending Penrite Steering Box Lube. This is hard to find up here in the Great White North. I am going to be in California next week in the Napa/Stockton area and if possible would pick some up. Anyone know of supplier in that area? MIrek -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From RFBegani at speakeasy.net Mon May 15 06:15:21 2017 From: RFBegani at speakeasy.net (Robert F. Begani) Date: Mon, 15 May 2017 08:15:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease References: <1694106203.3123076.1481785023101.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1694106203.3123076.1481785023101@mail.yahoo.com> <005401d2ca7e$bea7be40$3bf73ac0$@sympatico.ca> <000001d2cad5$f1f4c200$d5de4600$@sbcglobal.net> <01cb01d2ccd4$ca167c50$5e4374f0$@sympatico.ca> You can buy Cornhead Grease, Penrite etc. online at Amazon.com. I find it easier to buy items from them rather than drive miles to a store. Regards, Bob Begani BJ8 ?67 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2017 1:09 PM To: 'John Spaur' ; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease Thanks John, That is fast becoming my back-up plan. I will talk to the Nocks when I am in Stockton this week. From: John Spaur [mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net] Sent: May-12-17 12:12 AM To: 'Mirek Sharp'; 'Healeys' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease Mirek, No need to come to California for Penrite. Buy Land Rover Swivel Housing Grease. It has been recommend on the list many times and, although I have never tried Penrite, I believe it is the same for all intents and purposes. You need to heat it in hot water in order to use it. Google STC3435 just as you see it typed, no spaces. Upper or lowercase works. It?s in my car?s steering box which has not leaked since 2013. However, I am getting ready to drive my car this spring and I am sure, now that I wrote this, it will start leaking as any good Healey does. :) John ?62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 10:48 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cornhead Grease Hi all, Late last year there were several posts recommending Penrite Steering Box Lube. This is hard to find up here in the Great White North. I am going to be in California next week in the Napa/Stockton area and if possible would pick some up. Anyone know of supplier in that area? MIrek -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tappiokie at gmail.com Mon May 15 21:32:21 2017 From: tappiokie at gmail.com (Jim Cox) Date: Mon, 15 May 2017 23:32:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carlisle Import & Performance Show Later this week a number of us will be visiting the annual Import Show in Carlisle, PA. I have probably gone up there for the last 25 years. I would still rather see and feel items and look at the seller for these old parts when I can. This year I am bringing a few parts to thin the herd a bit. Of interest to some, I have an ANSA NOS center section exhaust for the BJ8. I also have a used ANSA center section and rear resonator in excellent condition. I have a pair of very nice original curved downpipes and the newer version for sale also along with a BN2 bell housing, a 1962 crooked shifter, rebuilt starter, generator and water pump. Two hoods, 3 X 1.75" intake manifolds and a custom designed fold-down windshield set adapted for the 6-cylinder roadsters. Lots of other interesting rare items all in good to excellent condition. If any of this interests you, stop by space E43 thursday through saturday or contact me at (804)512-1859 to discuss. You have my email address. Thanks! From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 16 07:46:34 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 16 May 2017 06:46:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Siting You have to scroll through the replies; be sure to click on 'All Replies' and 'Show Pending.' http://jalopnik.com/5910453/how-carroll-shelby-and-a-gang-of-nerds-beat-enzo-ferrari From yosmovies at hotmail.fr Tue May 16 16:06:10 2017 From: yosmovies at hotmail.fr (ph) Date: Tue, 16 May 2017 22:06:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Carb tsunami We are working on my early phase 2 BJ8. Very standard car.very standard fuel pump and system. So, we've noticed that petrol was initially seeping out of the front carb, HD8. Then the seepage seemed to get worse, almost as we looked at it. The leak is on the front carb and the fuel seems- it's not easy to be sure- it seems to be coming out from where the choke cable hits the lever. Given sufficient time and particularly a few attempts to start the car, then the fuel comes out of the manifold overflow pipe. Plenty of it too. Some observations:- 1) both of the floats are good. 100% 2) no fuel at all ever comes out of the float chamber overflow pipes 3) the connections at the banjos are sound.no leaks there 4) the jets??I don't know, are they Grose? They are kind of octagonal in their long profile. They have a little spring inside, with traditional cone shape at the top and little short, spring loaded, needle sticking out of the bottom. One of these things appears to be white nylon/plastic plus brass and the other appears to be some low grade silver coloured alloy. Both springs appear to be functional and both jets can entirely stop fuel coming out. (ie when I close them/push them home by hand). But we know nothing of these things. Never seen one before. 5) Not withstanding my suspicions of these seemingly complex little jets, we think they are correctly setup. They are not dropping so far that they can jam. No, we think that the jets are probably, note probably!!, OK. 6) My uncle, who is over from England, is more used to HS4s and Webers but he is wondering if the problem could be from the diaphragm. If it splits, that's it, right? Fuel in the manifold, fuel on the floor?? We'd really appreciate your accumulated wisdom. If we're to get the parts over from the UK, we've got to order them yesterday!! Pierre-Henri -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yosmovies at hotmail.fr Tue May 16 16:14:27 2017 From: yosmovies at hotmail.fr (ph) Date: Tue, 16 May 2017 22:14:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Hi again, does anyone know where I could get some carburetor HD8 rebuild kits in France? Thanks, Pierre-Henri -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Tue May 16 17:56:36 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Tue, 16 May 2017 19:56:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carb tsunami to my knowledge, Grose jets don't have springs-----are they inserted properly---the small needle point goes first in the jet (and blocks the flow of gas when closed)--the brass ball part goes against the fork. Next--I'd check the needle rubber--you will need to take the bottom of the carb to access that. These will tear over time and will leak from the area you sescribe. good luck ---- ph wrote: ============= We are working on my early phase 2 BJ8. Very standard car.very standard fuel pump and system. So, we've noticed that petrol was initially seeping out of the front carb, HD8. Then the seepage seemed to get worse, almost as we looked at it. The leak is on the front carb and the fuel seems- it's not easy to be sure- it seems to be coming out from where the choke cable hits the lever. Given sufficient time and particularly a few attempts to start the car, then the fuel comes out of the manifold overflow pipe. Plenty of it too. Some observations:- 1) both of the floats are good. 100% 2) no fuel at all ever comes out of the float chamber overflow pipes 3) the connections at the banjos are sound.no leaks there 4) the jets??I don't know, are they Grose? They are kind of octagonal in their long profile. They have a little spring inside, with traditional cone shape at the top and little short, spring loaded, needle sticking out of the bottom. One of these things appears to be white nylon/plastic plus brass and the other appears to be some low grade silver coloured alloy. Both springs appear to be functional and both jets can entirely stop fuel coming out. (ie when I close them/push them home by hand). But we know nothing of these things. Never seen one before. 5) Not withstanding my suspicions of these seemingly complex little jets, we think they are correctly setup. They are not dropping so far that they can jam. No, we think that the jets are probably, note probably!!, OK. 6) My uncle, who is over from England, is more used to HS4s and Webers but he is wondering if the problem could be from the diaphragm. If it splits, that's it, right? Fuel in the manifold, fuel on the floor?? We'd really appreciate your accumulated wisdom. If we're to get the parts over from the UK, we've got to order them yesterday!! Pierre-Henri From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue May 16 18:02:31 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Tue, 16 May 2017 20:02:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carb tsunami References: If this works as intended, my comments are inserted in red font. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ph Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2017 6:06 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Carb tsunami We are working on my early phase 2 BJ8. Very standard car.very standard fuel pump and system. So, we've noticed that petrol was initially seeping out of the front carb, HD8. Then the seepage seemed to get worse, almost as we looked at it. The leak is on the front carb and the fuel seems- it's not easy to be sure- it seems to be coming out from where the choke cable hits the lever. Given sufficient time and particularly a few attempts to start the car, then the fuel comes out of the manifold overflow pipe. Plenty of it too. The diaphragm is probably cracked and leaking. If you are going to change one, you may as well change both of them. Some observations:- 1) both of the floats are good. 100%. If the floats spring a leak, they will fill up with fuel and sink to the bottom of the float chamber. Then you will have fuel coming out of the overflow pipes. 2) no fuel at all ever comes out of the float chamber overflow pipes This only happens if the needle valve does not shut off the flow of fuel into the float chamber, which can happen if the needle valve leaks, or the float sinks to the bottom of the float chamber. 3) the connections at the banjos are sound.no leaks there 4) the jets??I don't know, are they Grose? They are kind of octagonal in their long profile. They have a little spring inside, with traditional cone shape at the top and little short, spring loaded, needle sticking out of the bottom. One of these things appears to be white nylon/plastic plus brass and the other appears to be some low grade silver coloured alloy. Both springs appear to be functional and both jets can entirely stop fuel coming out. (ie when I close them/push them home by hand). But we know nothing of these things. Never seen one before. What you describe is the typical nylon-tipped needle to shut off fuel flow to the carbs. They are not Grose Jets, which have balls to shut off the flow. 5) Not withstanding my suspicions of these seemingly complex little jets, we think they are correctly setup. They are not dropping so far that they can jam. No, we think that the jets are probably, note probably!!, OK. The jets of the carbs are the brass gizmos that the needle attached to the big piston fits into. What you are referring to is the port in the float chamber cap that the needle valve closes off to shut off the flow of fuel into the float chamber. 6) My uncle, who is over from England, is more used to HS4s and Webers but he is wondering if the problem could be from the diaphragm. If it splits, that's it, right? Fuel in the manifold, fuel on the floor?? I think your problem is a split/cracked diaphragm. We'd really appreciate your accumulated wisdom. If we're to get the parts over from the UK, we've got to order them yesterday!! Pierre-Henri Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From linwoodrose at mac.com Tue May 16 18:41:01 2017 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Tue, 16 May 2017 20:41:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carb tsunami References: Diaphragm? Lin Sent from my iPad > On May 16, 2017, at 6:06 PM, ph wrote: > > We are working on my early phase 2 BJ8. Very standard car.very standard fuel pump and system. > > So, we've noticed that petrol was initially seeping out of the front carb, HD8. Then the seepage seemed to get worse, almost as we looked at it. The leak is on the front carb and the fuel seems- it's not easy to be sure- it seems to be coming out from where the choke cable hits the lever. Given sufficient time and particularly a few attempts to start the car, then the fuel comes out of the manifold overflow pipe. Plenty of it too. > > Some observations:- > > 1) both of the floats are good. 100% > > 2) no fuel at all ever comes out of the float chamber overflow pipes > > 3) the connections at the banjos are sound.no leaks there > > 4) the jets??I don't know, are they Grose? They are kind of octagonal in their long profile. They have a little spring inside, with traditional cone shape at the top and little short, spring loaded, needle sticking out of the bottom. One of these things appears to be white nylon/plastic plus brass and the other appears to be some low grade silver coloured alloy. Both springs appear to be functional and both jets can entirely stop fuel coming out. (ie when I close them/push them home by hand). But we know nothing of these things. Never seen one before. > > 5) Not withstanding my suspicions of these seemingly complex little jets, we think they are correctly setup. They are not dropping so far that they can jam. No, we think that the jets are probably, note probably!!, OK. > > 6) My uncle, who is over from England, is more used to HS4s and Webers but he is wondering if the problem could be from the diaphragm. If it splits, that's it, right? Fuel in the manifold, fuel on the floor?? > > > We'd really appreciate your accumulated wisdom. If we're to get the parts over from the UK, we've got to order them yesterday!! > > > Pierre-Henri > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Tue May 16 23:52:15 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 17 May 2017 05:52:15 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Carb tsunami References: I'm surprised you don't have a manual for reference. They usually have a pretty good description and some illustrations to help with questions like these. Don't be intimidated, SU carburetors are about as simple as they come. 1. If you have a bowl overflowing and remove the cover the float should pop to the surface. If it doesn't rise is is full of fuel. 2. The fuel control needle valves are evidently working. If they have conical tips they are not Grose Jets as those use a ball in a seat to seal. 3. OK 4. See 2. above. These are actually not the jets, but are needle valves that control the fuel level in the bowl. The best have a conical viton tip which provides a resilient seal. Some have a small spring loaded rod at the float end. 5. The needle valves fit into a brass valve body that is screwed into the bowl lid. The needle and valve body are usually replaced as a set. There should be a gasket between the valve body and the lid. 6. Yes, the diaphragm seals the fuel circuit and if it is cracked or split fuel will leak as you describe. The fuel in the manifold might indicate that the float/needle valve is set too high. If the float is too high the fuel level in the bowl will allow fuel to siphon into the manifold. The jet is the machined tube attached at the bottom to the diaphragm and sticking up into the venturi bridge. When properly set up you should be able to activate the fuel pump and remove the dash pot assemblies and see fuel within a one or two millimeters of the top of the jet at the bridge. That indicates the proper float level. Enrichment is done by pulling the jet down into the bridge. With the jet needle in place that action enlarges the orifice the fuel is pulled through and thus increases the amount of fuel permitted to enter the venturi. Good luck. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of ph Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2017 10:06:10 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Carb tsunami We are working on my early phase 2 BJ8. Very standard car.very standard fuel pump and system. So, we've noticed that petrol was initially seeping out of the front carb, HD8. Then the seepage seemed to get worse, almost as we looked at it. The leak is on the front carb and the fuel seems- it's not easy to be sure- it seems to be coming out from where the choke cable hits the lever. Given sufficient time and particularly a few attempts to start the car, then the fuel comes out of the manifold overflow pipe. Plenty of it too. Some observations:- 1) both of the floats are good. 100% 2) no fuel at all ever comes out of the float chamber overflow pipes 3) the connections at the banjos are sound.no leaks there 4) the jets??I don't know, are they Grose? They are kind of octagonal in their long profile. They have a little spring inside, with traditional cone shape at the top and little short, spring loaded, needle sticking out of the bottom. One of these things appears to be white nylon/plastic plus brass and the other appears to be some low grade silver coloured alloy. Both springs appear to be functional and both jets can entirely stop fuel coming out. (ie when I close them/push them home by hand). But we know nothing of these things. Never seen one before. 5) Not withstanding my suspicions of these seemingly complex little jets, we think they are correctly setup. They are not dropping so far that they can jam. No, we think that the jets are probably, note probably!!, OK. 6) My uncle, who is over from England, is more used to HS4s and Webers but he is wondering if the problem could be from the diaphragm. If it splits, that's it, right? Fuel in the manifold, fuel on the floor?? We'd really appreciate your accumulated wisdom. If we're to get the parts over from the UK, we've got to order them yesterday!! Pierre-Henri -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 17 01:49:50 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 17 May 2017 09:49:50 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) References: Do not bother in France. Use www.ebay.co.uk You will several suppliers Kees Oudesluijs Op 17-5-2017 om 0:14 schreef ph: > > Hi again, does anyone know where I could get some carburetor HD8 > rebuild kits in France? > > Thanks, > > Pierre-Henri > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From reinhart.rosner at aon.at Wed May 17 02:20:17 2017 From: reinhart.rosner at aon.at (Reinhart Rosner) Date: Wed, 17 May 2017 10:20:17 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) References: Hallo Henri, you might try the SU carb section of Burlen in the UK: https://burlen.co.uk/ http://sucarb.co.uk/ Reinhart Reinhart Rosner 55 AH 100 BN 1 Vienna - Austria Von: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von ph Gesendet: Mittwoch, 17. Mai 2017 00:14 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] (no subject) Hi again, does anyone know where I could get some carburetor HD8 rebuild kits in France? Thanks, Pierre-Henri -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ggilliam at usol.com Wed May 17 13:04:17 2017 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Wed, 17 May 2017 15:04:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] H4 carbs leaking Experts... I have rebuilt the carbs on my BN4, genuine SU master kit. New shafts, butterflys, all the seals and gaskets, etc. The engine starts easy, idles down better than ever before, but both carbs leak badly down the jet tube. I had hoped the seals would "set in" or something like that after some cycles of the choke levers, but no, still a significant dripping, directly over the exhaust of course. Does anyone have a secret method of installing new seals on the jet tubes, lubricants, order of assembly, additional quantities? Thanks for all suggestions.. Gordy Longbridge BN4 From josef-eckert at t-online.de Wed May 17 14:32:30 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Wed, 17 May 2017 22:32:30 +0200 (MEST) Subject: [Healeys] H4 carbs leaking References: <82d88f2799a8488f208c8c1d352b64ea@usol.com> Cork seals need to be soaked in engine oil for at least one day before assembly. Then all should be tight. Josef Eckert KonigswinteR/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] H4 carbs leaking Datum: 2017-05-17T22:28:06+0200 Von: "ggilliam at usol.com" An: "Healeys" Experts... I have rebuilt the carbs on my BN4, genuine SU master kit. New shafts, butterflys, all the seals and gaskets, etc. The engine starts easy, idles down better than ever before, but both carbs leak badly down the jet tube. I had hoped the seals would "set in" or something like that after some cycles of the choke levers, but no, still a significant dripping, directly over the exhaust of course. Does anyone have a secret method of installing new seals on the jet tubes, lubricants, order of assembly, additional quantities? Thanks for all suggestions.. Gordy Longbridge BN4 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ? From yosmovies at hotmail.fr Thu May 18 16:36:42 2017 From: yosmovies at hotmail.fr (ph) Date: Thu, 18 May 2017 22:36:42 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] dynamo problem goes on! What is the likely fault if a brand-new dynamo gets very hot at D terminal and its insulation melted. The dynamo is not fried, and relevant tests showed the dynamo is still operational. We suspect the voltage regulator. Has anybody had any experience with this? Thank you very much, Pierre-Henri PS: I'll let you know how we've got on with the carbs that have the rebuild kits fitted !!! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From waschu2 at gmail.com Fri May 19 12:21:59 2017 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz) Date: Fri, 19 May 2017 14:21:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 154 References: Sounds like the reverse current relay is stuck in the regulator. This tries to turn the generator into a motor when the engine is not running. It has been known to cause fires. Get a new regulator from a reliable source, not a Chinese copy. Wayne On Fri, May 19, 2017 at 2:00 PM, wrote: > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. dynamo problem goes on! (ph) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 18 May 2017 22:36:42 +0000 > From: ph > To: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Subject: [Healeys] dynamo problem goes on! > Message-ID: > eurprd05.prod.outlook.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > What is the likely fault if a brand-new dynamo gets very hot at D terminal > and its insulation melted. > > The dynamo is not fried, and relevant tests showed the dynamo is still > operational. > > We suspect the voltage regulator. > > Has anybody had any experience with this? > > Thank you very much, > > Pierre-Henri > > > PS: I'll let you know how we've got on with the carbs that have the > rebuild kits fitted !!! > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170518/1f7bc727/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 154 > **************************************** > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.brouillette at comcast.net Fri May 19 14:01:58 2017 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (mike brouillette) Date: Fri, 19 May 2017 16:01:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Interesting idea for the sight challenged https://nh.craigslist.org/pts/6138982674.html -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri May 19 16:15:22 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 19 May 2017 15:15:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox Problem My gearbox is popping out of 4th and 4th/OD, usually coasting in gear downhill, but sometimes randomly. Anyone know what the typical cause(s) of this are? My guess? My rebuilt engine has (much) more compression, and the 'reverse torque' from coasting it causing something to flex or buckle in the box. TIA, Bob From jpaynepbr at cox.net Fri May 19 17:24:10 2017 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Fri, 19 May 2017 16:24:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox Problem References: The springs on the detent balls on the shifter rods are weak or the springs on the detent balls on your gear hub are weak. You don't need to take the thing out of the car and do a full disassembly to get the former, all you need to do is take the cover off and fiddle with it. Keep your fingers crossed that it's the former. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 3:15 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox Problem My gearbox is popping out of 4th and 4th/OD, usually coasting in gear downhill, but sometimes randomly. Anyone know what the typical cause(s) of this are? My guess? My rebuilt engine has (much) more compression, and the 'reverse torque' from coasting it causing something to flex or buckle in the box. TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpaynepbr at cox.net From jnew at hazelden.ca Fri May 19 17:30:40 2017 From: jnew at hazelden.ca (John P. New) Date: Fri, 19 May 2017 19:30:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox Problem References: Bob, I had this problem about 15 years ago after Rich Chrysler restored my BJ8. The transmission would pop out of 4th gear when, "letting off the accelerator pedal in the middle of an acceleration; letting off the accelerator pedal to engine brake," which is from my notes at the time. After disassembling the gearbox and carefully examining everything, his diagnosis was: "The cause of the slipping out of 4th is due to two things, each of which might not have caused the situation by itself, but combined to cause problems. The 3rd/4th speed gear selector fork shows a lot of wear on both sides where it pushes against the shifter hub in both directions. Also, there is wear on the 3rd/4th gear internal synchro hub. This is the sliding assembly preloaded with the 3 sets of springs and balls. To replace the offending parts will require: 1 selector fork, and 1 3rd/4th synchro hub assembly" I had some other work done on the gearbox at the same time, which included replacing the layshaft, reverse gear/idler and the 4 caged needle roller assemblies for the laygear. After all this was done, it never popped out of 4th gear again, no matter how much coasting or engine braking I applied. John On May 19, 2017 03:15:22 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > My gearbox is popping out of 4th and 4th/OD, usually coasting in gear > downhill, but sometimes randomly. Anyone know what the typical cause(s) > of this are? > > My guess? My rebuilt engine has (much) more compression, and the > 'reverse torque' from coasting it causing something to flex or buckle in > the box. > > TIA, > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jnew at hazelden.ca > From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri May 19 19:04:45 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 20 May 2017 11:04:45 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox Problem References: Hey Bob, Aside from a gearbox related issue, Like weak detent springs and worn shifter rods, have you had your rear brake drums balanced? Trust me on this one. Get your rear brake drums balanced, and see if the problem goes away.... best Chris > On 20 May 2017, at 8:15 am, Bob Spidell wrote: > > My gearbox is popping out of 4th and 4th/OD, usually coasting in gear downhill, but sometimes randomly. Anyone know what the typical cause(s) of this are? > > My guess? My rebuilt engine has (much) more compression, and the 'reverse torque' from coasting it causing something to flex or buckle in the box. > > TIA, > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat May 20 00:34:02 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 20 May 2017 16:34:02 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Coil Holding Strap Thingy G'day Simple question. I have just refitted the generator to the BN3 and now wondering if the six-cylinder coil holding strap thingy should have its join closer to the engine side or the other side. Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat May 20 07:50:26 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sat, 20 May 2017 09:50:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] This has me stumped! Hello, Healeyphiles - This is an MG Midget, but the wiring is similar to a Healey. I cannot figure this one out. The situation: 1. I am reassembling the car after a total repaint. 2. During disassembly, the molded plastic connectors in each of the headlamp harnesses crumbled, so I replace both harnesses with new ones from Moss. 3. Because the headlamps were mis-matched and one had no high beams, I replaced both headlamps with new ones. (NOTE: the left lamp high beam did not work in the car with the old harness, but I just checked the bulb directly to the battery and both beams worked). 4. I drove the car to a location where I could adjust the headlamp aiming according to instructions at danielsternlighting.com. Both lights worked on both high and low beams. 5. When I finished the aiming procedure, I turned off the headlamp switch before starting the car to drive home. That's the last I have seen of either the high or low beams. Fortunately, it was not too dark to see and less than a half-mile to home down a neighborhood street. 6. I have checked the headlamp wiring end-to-end per the BMC wiring diagram. With the headlamp switch on, I have 13 volts at all locations checked: headlamp switch blue wire to turn signal switch (power input), turn signal switch blue/white wire (high beam circuit), turn signal switch blue/red wire (low beam circuit), 13 volts to both circuits at the headlight connector of the new harness (since neither light is working, I am only troubleshooting the right one so far). 7. Continuity of ground at the headlight connector. 8. The light (both high and low beams) burns brightly if I connect its terminals directly to the battery. I also plugged in both the old bulbs, for what that's worth, and neither of them worked. So, the new headlamp is good, I have 13 volts at both high and low beam terminals of the new harness and continuity of ground. I can also measure 13 volts on the lamp terminals with it plugged into the harness. What is the problem? Thanks for any suggestions! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC TARHEELY license plate -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 19755 bytes Desc: not available URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat May 20 09:14:24 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 20 May 2017 08:14:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Coil Holding Strap Thingy References: ByP8dtwpjowsVByPAdYYpd Patrick, In the Austin Healey BN7 service parts manual the bolted connection is on the engine side with the nut face up and the bolt head facing down. In reality the right answer might be whatever the workers on the assembly line preferred. Regards, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 11:34 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Coil Holding Strap Thingy G'day Simple question. I have just refitted the generator to the BN3 and now wondering if the six-cylinder coil holding strap thingy should have its join closer to the engine side or the other side. Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 20 09:33:19 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 20 May 2017 08:33:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Coil Holding Strap Thingy References: <00d601d2d133$1384c010$3a8e4030$@tpg.com.au> Not sure I understand the question, but, you want the coil to perch more-or-less right on top of the generator. Here's a photo of my BJ8's installation; not sure if it's exactly right as the rebuilder had to remove the strap to work on the generator, but I think it's close. The coil is just a wee bit off exactly vertical, away from the engine, but I'm not going to remove the generator to 'fix' it, and it makes it a bit easier to access the #1 plug. Bob On 5/19/2017 11:34 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > > G?day > > Simple question. > > I have just refitted the generator to the BN3 and now wondering if the > six-cylinder coil holding strap thingy should have its join closer to > the engine side or the other side. > > Thanks > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Generator.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 120403 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat May 20 09:34:10 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 20 May 2017 17:34:10 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] This has me stumped! References: <072d01d2d170$09bd50f0$1d37f2d0$@rr.com> Probably some earth connection. check with the negative pole (negative earth car I presume) of the battery, not with chassis earth. May be the earth strap engine-chassis is gone. In my mind it must be a wiring problem. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-5-2017 om 15:50 schreef BJ8Healeys: > > Hello, Healeyphiles - > > This is an MG Midget, but the wiring is similar to a Healey. I cannot > figure this one out. The situation: > > 1. I am reassembling the car after a total repaint. > > 2. During disassembly, the molded plastic connectors in each of the > headlamp harnesses crumbled, so I replace both harnesses with new ones > from Moss. > > 3. Because the headlamps were mis-matched and one had no high beams, > I replaced both headlamps with new ones. (NOTE: the left lamp high > beam did not work in the car with the old harness, but I just checked > the bulb directly to the battery and both beams worked). > > 4. I drove the car to a location where I could adjust the headlamp > aiming according to instructions at danielsternlighting.com. Both > lights worked on both high and low beams. > > 5. When I finished the aiming procedure, I turned off the headlamp > switch before starting the car to drive home. That's the last I have > seen of either the high or low beams. Fortunately, it was not too > dark to see and less than a half-mile to home down a neighborhood street. > > 6. I have checked the headlamp wiring end-to-end per the BMC wiring > diagram. With the headlamp switch on, I have 13 volts at all > locations checked: headlamp switch blue wire to turn signal switch > (power input), turn signal switch blue/white wire (high beam circuit), > turn signal switch blue/red wire (low beam circuit), 13 volts to both > circuits at the headlight connector of the new harness (since neither > light is working, I am only troubleshooting the right one so far). > > 7. Continuity of ground at the headlight connector. > > 8. The light (both high and low beams) burns brightly if I connect > its terminals directly to the battery. I also plugged in both the old > bulbs, for what that's worth, and neither of them worked. > > So, the new headlamp is good, I have 13 volts at both high and low > beam terminals of the new harness and continuity of ground. I can > also measure 13 volts on the lamp terminals with it plugged into the > harness. What is the problem? > > Thanks for any suggestions! > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > TARHEELY license plate > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 19755 bytes Desc: not available URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Sat May 20 11:48:24 2017 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Sat, 20 May 2017 13:48:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] This has me stumped! References: <072d01d2d170$09bd50f0$1d37f2d0$@rr.com> On 5/20/2017 9:50 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > I turned off the headlamp switch before starting the car to drive > home. That's the last I have seen of either the high or low beams. Always check the last thing done before a failure. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat May 20 13:54:47 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 20 May 2017 12:54:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] This has me stumped! References: <072d01d2d170$09bd50f0$1d37f2d0$@rr.com> Blown in line fuse? Had switch? Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On May 20, 2017 11:38 AM, "John Vrugtman" wrote: > > > On 5/20/2017 9:50 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > I turned off the headlamp switch before starting the car to drive home. > That's the last I have seen of either the high or low beams. > > Always check the last thing done before a failure. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sat May 20 14:15:55 2017 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Sat, 20 May 2017 13:15:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] This has me stumped! References: <072d01d2d170$09bd50f0$1d37f2d0$@rr.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 20 15:31:44 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 20 May 2017 14:31:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Battery charging voltage After a second battery failure requiring pulling the tank, flushing the boot with baking soda solution, rinsing, drying and reinstalling I sprung for a sealed AGM battery (X2Power). I also have a new voltage regulator purchased from the rebuilder of my generator and starter. What is the List Wisdom on proper charging voltage? My DVM shows 14.67V at a fast (2,000RPM) idle. My research shows this is usually acceptable, though some sites say a little less. Some sites say up to 14.7V for AGM, a couple say 14.8. Thoughts? Bob From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat May 20 17:00:10 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sat, 20 May 2017 17:00:10 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Battery charging voltage Technically an AGM battery requires a special charger.. On May 20, 2017, at 3:31 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: After a second battery failure requiring pulling the tank, flushing the boot with baking soda solution, rinsing, drying and reinstalling I sprung for a sealed AGM battery (X2Power). I also have a new voltage regulator purchased from the rebuilder of my generator and starter. What is the List Wisdom on proper charging voltage? My DVM shows 14.67V at a fast (2,000RPM) idle. My research shows this is usually acceptable, though some sites say a little less. Some sites say up to 14.7V for AGM, a couple say 14.8. Thoughts? Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 20 18:39:58 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 20 May 2017 17:39:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Battery charging voltage References: What??? British electrons don't work? bs On 5/20/2017 4:00 PM, David Porter wrote: > Technically an AGM battery requires a special charger.. > > On May 20, 2017, at 3:31 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > After a second battery failure requiring pulling the tank, flushing the > boot with baking soda solution, rinsing, drying and reinstalling I > sprung for a sealed AGM battery (X2Power). I also have a new voltage > regulator purchased from the rebuilder of my generator and starter. > What is the List Wisdom on proper charging voltage? My DVM shows 14.67V > at a fast (2,000RPM) idle. My research shows this is usually > acceptable, though some sites say a little less. Some sites say up to > 14.7V for AGM, a couple say 14.8. > > Thoughts? > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > From ah53 at yahoo.com Sat May 20 20:24:45 2017 From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey) Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 02:24:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] This has me stumped! References: <072d01d2d170$09bd50f0$1d37f2d0$@rr.com> <20170520201555.4599892.13861.8068@gmail.com> Just making a guess but could it be a failure of the high beam foot button? Joe On Saturday, May 20, 2017 5:08 PM, Roland Wilhelmy wrote: Number 6: if both headlights once worked and now both fail then the problem does not lie in any portion of the wiring that is not common to both. That reduces the wiring in question to ground problems or something in a switch of common wiring such as hi/low beam switch or?? I am not familiar with Sprite wiring and switches. ?Or an intermittent short in the old wiring. :Repaints are often the cause of failure of ground connections. So, have you tried putting it all together to see if it works now for whatever reason?What is the last thing that you did Before turning off the headlights?If all else fails me I go back and verify that I know what I think I know. Good hunting and please keep the list posted.? -Roland Sent?from?my?BlackBerry?10?smartphone. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun May 21 05:37:05 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 21:37:05 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Coil Holding Strap Thingy References: ByP8dtwpjowsVByPAdYYpd G'day Thank you for the responses to my question on the correct positioning of the six-cylinder coil holding strap thingy. While I am not 100% sure of the original location of the thingy on the BN3 I decided that it would be easier to position it as the production six-cylinder cars. Attached is a photo for those interested. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Harold Manifold [mailto:manifold at telus.net] Sent: Sunday, 21 May 2017 1:14 AM To: 'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Coil Holding Strap Thingy Patrick, In the Austin Healey BN7 service parts manual the bolted connection is on the engine side with the nut face up and the bolt head facing down. In reality the right answer might be whatever the workers on the assembly line preferred. Regards, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 11:34 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Coil Holding Strap Thingy G'day Simple question. I have just refitted the generator to the BN3 and now wondering if the six-cylinder coil holding strap thingy should have its join closer to the engine side or the other side. Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5181.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 157528 bytes Desc: not available URL: From DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com Sun May 21 05:42:08 2017 From: DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 11:42:08 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] This has me stumped! I had the same problem with a 1950 Dodge. It turned out to be that the grounds had been painted over when the car had been repainted. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kentmclean at comcast.net Sun May 21 07:35:09 2017 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 09:35:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 77 RW Pippa Middleton and her new husband left their wedding in an open XK-E/E-type with the registration 77 RW. Deep in the recesses of my cluttered mind I thought, ?That?s a famous car?? A Google search finds it was one of the original press test cars when the E-Type was released. My significant other is amazed I remember such esoteric trivia, but can?t remember names. http://www.express.co.uk/news/royal/807237/pippa-middleton-wedding-by-royal-appointment-range-rover-bently-supplies https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaguar_E-Type - Kent McLean ?56 100 BN2 From ruvino at ripnet.com Sun May 21 10:33:44 2017 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (ruvino at ripnet.com) Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 12:33:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] weight What is the total wt. of the transmission and overdrive together? Thanks Carl BN-4 1957 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 21 11:38:49 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 13:38:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] weight References: <44F8E7B6A8744F389D51658C86D6A43A@p6520f> Just checked. 126 pounds without the shift lever in place. Full of oil. Perry Sent from my iPhone > On May 21, 2017, at 12:33 PM, wrote: > > What is the total wt. of the transmission and overdrive together? > > Thanks > > Carl > BN-4 1957 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun May 21 13:37:48 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 12:37:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] weight References: <44F8E7B6A8744F389D51658C86D6A43A@p6520f> Way too heavy :) I think about 750 lbs Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On May 21, 2017 10:46 AM, wrote: > What is the total wt. of the transmission and overdrive together? > > Thanks > > Carl > BN-4 1957 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymk3 at hotmail.com Sun May 21 13:47:50 2017 From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford) Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 19:47:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] weight References: <44F8E7B6A8744F389D51658C86D6A43A@p6520f> According to the workshop manual it is 117 lbs (52.9 kg) Laurie Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Fido network. From: ruvino at ripnet.com Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2017 1:23 PM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] weight What is the total wt. of the transmission and overdrive together? Thanks Carl BN-4 1957 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun May 21 15:54:50 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 14:54:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] weight References: <44F8E7B6A8744F389D51658C86D6A43A@p6520f> Ira, weigh (pun intended) to heavy, 750# includes the engine. BT7 weights per shop manual: Engine 611 # Gearbox standard 79.5 # With OD 117 # John Spaur From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2017 12:38 PM To: carl rubino Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] weight Way too heavy :) I think about 750 lbs Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR What is the total wt. of the transmission and overdrive together? Thanks Carl BN-4 1957 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun May 21 16:25:32 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 15:25:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] weight References: <44F8E7B6A8744F389D51658C86D6A43A@p6520f> <000001d2d27c$e0480680$a0d81380$@sbcglobal.net> Read and engine. About 250 for Tran and overdrive Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On May 21, 2017 2:54 PM, "John Spaur" wrote: > Ira, weigh (pun intended) to heavy, 750# includes the engine. > > > > BT7 weights per shop manual: > > > > Engine 611 # > > Gearbox standard 79.5 # > > With OD 117 # > > > > John Spaur > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *i > erbs > *Sent:* Sunday, May 21, 2017 12:38 PM > *To:* carl rubino > *Cc:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] weight > > > > Way too heavy :) I think about 750 lbs > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. > Portland,OR > > > > On May 21, 2017 10:46 AM, wrote: > > What is the total wt. of the transmission and overdrive together? > > > > Thanks > > > > Carl > > BN-4 1957 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sun May 21 19:25:46 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 18:25:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?front_badge=2E?= does anyone know if the lady that restores the badges with the cloisonne (?) process is still in business. lady with a bj8 in our club has ordered a couple from moss that has the pins too close and it will not fit the holes. i suggested restoring her old one but need the name and address of the lady. TIA From tld6008 at mchsi.com Sun May 21 20:43:11 2017 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 22:43:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] weight 115lbs. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: ruvino at ripnet.com To: healeylist Sent: Sun, 21 May 2017 12:33:44 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] weight What is the total wt. of the transmission and overdrive together? Thanks CarlBN-4 1957 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon May 22 05:24:06 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 22 May 2017 07:24:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: front badge. References: <20170522012546.27808.qmail@server278.com> Go to http://www.maxwellenamels.com/ or Pamela David in England http://badgecraft.co.uk/index.htm Pamela David Enamels. Located in England. Look at the web site for details, Cloissene Badges/repair. Simply the best and acclaimed as such by most Healey owners. Web site has been under construction for several years but contact them anyway! They are too busy with their repair business. They respond quickly to telephone and email. mailto:enameller at googlemail.com or phone +44 (0) 1769 520536 John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2017 9:26 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] front badge. does anyone know if the lady that restores the badges with the cloisonne (?) process is still in business. lady with a bj8 in our club has ordered a couple from moss that has the pins too close and it will not fit the holes. i suggested restoring her old one but need the name and address of the lady. TIA _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon May 22 05:48:28 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 22 May 2017 21:48:28 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 77 RW References: <19271F84-0576-4E2E-A609-9CA74F5B3CE0@comcast.net> Hello Kent I understand your predicament precisely. Frequently when we are watching something on TV when I make reference to something that I recognise. Caroline always makes some remark that while I can recall that, but ask me to pick up three things from the shop I can remember two, but never three. Can our minds ever hold too much useful trivia? Best wishes Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kent McLean Sent: Sunday, 21 May 2017 11:35 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 77 RW Pippa Middleton and her new husband left their wedding in an open XK-E/E-type with the registration 77 RW. Deep in the recesses of my cluttered mind I thought, ?That?s a famous car?? A Google search finds it was one of the original press test cars when the E-Type was released. My significant other is amazed I remember such esoteric trivia, but can?t remember names. http://www.express.co.uk/news/royal/807237/pippa-middleton-wedding-by-royal-appointment-range-rover-bently-supplies https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaguar_E-Type - Kent McLean ?56 100 BN2 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon May 22 05:57:57 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 22 May 2017 13:57:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] FW: front badge. References: <20170522012546.27808.qmail@server278.com> <003001d2d2ed$ecbc4810$c634d830$@verizon.net> Pamela David and her husband are the absolute top, but they are very old school. Phone: 01769520536 or perhaps e-mail: enameller at googlemail.com will be the only practical means of communication. The work is absolutely superb, however you need to be patient as they have a lot of orders. The methods they use are pure "traditional" and very labour intensive. Kees Oudesluijs Op 22-5-2017 om 13:24 schreef John Sims: > > Go to http://www.maxwellenamels.com/ or Pamela David in England > http://badgecraft.co.uk/index.htm > > Pamela David Enamels. Located in England. Look at the web site for details, > Cloissene Badges/repair. Simply the best and acclaimed as such by most > Healey owners. Web site has been under construction for several years but > contact them anyway! They are too busy with their repair business. They > respond quickly to telephone and email. mailto:enameller at googlemail.com or > phone +44 (0) 1769 520536 > > John Sims > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > healeymanjim > Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2017 9:26 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] front badge. > > does anyone know if the lady that restores the badges with the cloisonne (?) > process is still in business. lady with a bj8 in our club has ordered a > couple from moss that has the pins too close and it will not fit the holes. > i suggested restoring her old one but need the name and address of the lady. > TIA _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Mon May 22 08:02:34 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Mon, 22 May 2017 07:02:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] weight References: <44F8E7B6A8744F389D51658C86D6A43A@p6520f> I can verify that. My back still hurts from hefting the tail piece over the cruciform on Saturday! Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2017 12:38 PM To: carl rubino Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] weight Way too heavy :) I think about 750 lbs Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR What is the total wt. of the transmission and overdrive together? Thanks Carl BN-4 1957 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 21009.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 34742 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon May 22 14:08:37 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Mon, 22 May 2017 16:08:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] This has me stumped - solution! The problem with my headlamps refusing to illuminate in spite of power to them at their harness connectors and apparent adequate ground connections was, as many of you suggested: a bad ground. However, the bad ground was in a wire to the right front side marker light. I soldered on a new bullet terminal, and now all is well. I'm still not quite clear on why this would happen, since each headlamp has its own separate ground wire - although all of the black wires in the front of the car are connected together via the typical Lucas wiring connectors. Thanks to all for your suggestions! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC TARHEELY license plate -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 19755 bytes Desc: not available URL: From go2ghill at aol.com Mon May 22 14:09:04 2017 From: go2ghill at aol.com (Greg Hill) Date: Mon, 22 May 2017 16:09:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 77 RW The bride and groom both look like their heads stick up above the windshield. Hope the small windscreen didn't mess up her hair. Greg Hill 100-6 Sent from AOL Mobile Mail -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon May 22 15:46:01 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 22 May 2017 23:46:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] This has me stumped - solution! References: <086a01d2d337$33720c60$9a562520$@rr.com> Well, take apart and clean the bullets and connectors. Also make some extra ground connections to the black wires to chassis/body to prevent future p[roblems and overload of the black wire ground circuit. Kees Oudesluijs Op 22-5-2017 om 22:08 schreef BJ8Healeys: > > The problem with my headlamps refusing to illuminate in spite of power > to them at their harness connectors and apparent adequate ground > connections was, as many of you suggested: a bad ground. However, > the bad ground was in a wire to the right front side marker light. I > soldered on a new bullet terminal, and now all is well. I'm still not > quite clear on why this would happen, since each headlamp has its own > separate ground wire - although all of the black wires in the front of > the car are connected together via the typical Lucas wiring connectors. > > Thanks to all for your suggestions! > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > TARHEELY license plate > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 19755 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Wed May 24 15:04:47 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Wed, 24 May 2017 22:04:47 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Paris problems Hi, I have been to Paris and, touch wood, was able to help my nephew get his BJ8 up and running. In order to arm myself with all the information that I could get hold of I've asked you guys quite a few questions and been pretty stingy with the thanks and feedback. So:- 1. When we picked the car up at the port, it was hard to start - unsurprisingly, I thought - and it didn't run very well. But it made the 100+ miles to Paris, only really baulking when traffic slowed us down and the revs dropped. 2. Subsequent to that, the car ran badly...erratic firing and then flat battery. 3. My nephew suspected the battery and bought a new one. That went flat and the erratic behaviour continued. 4. I suspected the generator and inquired of the list regarding symptoms. 5. I also got my nephew to run the standard "Does the generator work?" tests. It failed them all. 6. About this time, the front carb started to leak..nothing much, but the behaviour and location of the leak pointed me away from the float bowl. Some background, maybe some clues. We'll never know:- there are often a stack of bits that come with an old car. In this case, the stack was pretty big and, amongst other things, was a new Indian RB340 Lucas lookalike Voltage Regulator/Control Box. The car was fitted with another Indian RB340 lookalike which looked brand new. That box was wearing the original Lucas's lid. There were also a number of carb bits...seals, jets and so forth. Plus a few drum brake rubber parts. Now, hindsight is a lovely thing, but - retrospectively - one wonders. 7. I brought a new generator over from the UK plus other parts and tools. Not easy these days what with security at the airports etcetc. 8. We fitted the new generator. The car started, "no charge" red light went off and engine ran well for, say, a minute. Then, smoke from insulation on large terminal on generator. I suspected polarity and/or control box. 9. However, the attempts at starting seemed to have turned the front carb's leak into a flood. 10. More questions to you guys. I suspected the diaphragm...the sheer volume and location of the leak pushed me in that direction and you all agreed. 11. So, a two carb rebuild kit was ordered from the UK and, quite miraculously, turned up within 18 hours. 12. Removed the carbs...what joy. 13. The front diaphragm was dry and split around the centre. The rear wasn't much better, but it wasn't leaking yet. 14. Curiously, or so I thought, the carbs showed some signs of being rebuilt, but rather inconsistently and not the same parts in both carbs. But why do the little bits and not the big one, the "Usual Culprits"?? 15. Anyhow, the rebuild worked and the drip/flood stopped. 16. Back, finally, to the generator...not previously having liked the mix of frying generator and spouting petrol. 17. We had no luck initially but, after tidying up all the ignition wiring and polarizing the generator we proceeded. 18. The generator still worked. It passed the "Motor test". 19. The wiring to the, just in case polarized, Control Box was OK. So... 20. We swapped the control boxes and hey presto...no red light, no smoke, no erratic running. ie, everything they say about those boxes is true. 21. Thereafter, the car's run well. Starts first time and runs strongly once it's warmed up. And, if you've read this far, thank you all very much for your help. Regarding not having a manual, I think that, between us, my nephew and I are virtually into double figures. I do the research, read the manuals, make up my mind and then, before I make a catastrophic cock-up, I ask the gurus. Can save a lot of time and, in this case, an airfare or two! Now.. now, I think it's leaking brake fluid somewhere. In the servo somewhere is my guess. But the car's in Paris; my nephew's in the South of France and I'm in the UK. So, we'll have to wait and see. It may be nothing, but I wonder if the car, having sat around idle for ages, may have dried out any number of seals and God knows what. We'll see... Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu May 25 01:24:16 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 25 May 2017 09:24:16 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Paris problems References: <000001d2d4d1$6094bee0$21be3ca0$@homecall.co.uk> Master Brake cilinder! Kees Oudesluijs Op 24-5-2017 om 23:04 schreef Simon Lachlan: > > Hi, > > I have been to Paris and, touch wood, was able to help my nephew get > his BJ8 up and running. In order to arm myself with all the > information that I could get hold of I?ve asked you guys quite a few > questions and been pretty stingy with the thanks and feedback. > > So:- > > 1. When we picked the car up at the port, it was hard to start ? > unsurprisingly, I thought ? and it didn?t run very well. But it > made the 100+ miles to Paris, only really baulking when traffic > slowed us down and the revs dropped. > 2. Subsequent to that, the car ran badly??.erratic firing and then > flat battery. > 3. My nephew suspected the battery and bought a new one. That went > flat and the erratic behaviour continued. > 4. I suspected the generator and inquired of the list regarding symptoms. > 5. I also got my nephew to run the standard ?Does the generator > work?? tests. It failed them all. > 6. About this time, the front carb started to leak??nothing much, but > the behaviour and location of the leak pointed me away from the > float bowl. > > Some background, maybe some clues. We?ll never know:- there are often > a stack of bits that come with an old car. In this case, the stack was > pretty big and, amongst other things, was a new Indian RB340 Lucas > lookalike Voltage Regulator/Control Box. The car was fitted with > another Indian RB340 lookalike which looked brand new. That box was > wearing the original Lucas?s lid. > > There were also a number of carb bits??.seals, jets and so forth. Plus > a few drum brake rubber parts. Now, hindsight is a lovely thing, but ? > retrospectively ? one wonders. > > 7. I brought a new generator over from the UK plus other parts and > tools. Not easy these days what with security at the airports etcetc. > 8. We fitted the new generator. The car started, ?no charge? red > light went off and engine ran well for, say, a minute. Then, smoke > from insulation on large terminal on generator. I suspected > polarity and/or control box. > 9. However, the attempts at starting seemed to have turned the front > carb?s leak into a flood. > 10. More questions to you guys. I suspected the diaphragm?..the sheer > volume and location of the leak pushed me in that direction and > you all agreed. > 11. So, a two carb rebuild kit was ordered from the UK and, quite > miraculously, turned up within 18 hours. > 12. Removed the carbs?..what joy. > 13. The front diaphragm was dry and split around the centre. The rear > wasn?t much better, but it wasn?t leaking yet. > 14. Curiously, or so I thought, the carbs showed some signs of being > rebuilt, but rather inconsistently and not the same parts in both > carbs. But why do the little bits and not the big one, the ?Usual > Culprits??? > 15. Anyhow, the rebuild worked and the drip/flood stopped. > 16. Back, finally, to the generator?..not previously having liked the > mix of frying generator and spouting petrol. > 17. We had no luck initially but, after tidying up all the ignition > wiring and polarizing the generator we proceeded. > 18. The generator still worked. It passed the ?Motor test?. > 19. The wiring to the, just in case polarized, Control Box was OK. So?.. > 20. We swapped the control boxes and hey presto?..no red light, no > smoke, no erratic running. ie, everything they say about those > boxes is true. > 21. Thereafter, the car?s run well. Starts first time and runs > strongly once it?s warmed up. > > And, if you?ve read this far, thank you all very much for your help. > > Regarding not having a manual, I think that, between us, my nephew and > I are virtually into double figures. I do the research, read the > manuals, make up my mind and then, before I make a catastrophic > cock-up, I ask the gurus. Can save a lot of time and, in this case, an > airfare or two! > > Now?? now, I think it?s leaking brake fluid somewhere. In the servo > somewhere is my guess. But the car?s in Paris; my nephew?s in the > South of France and I?m in the UK. So, we?ll have to wait and see. It > may be nothing, but I wonder if the car, having sat around idle for > ages, may have dried out any number of seals and God knows what. We?ll > see?.. > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From larry at patersondesign.ca Thu May 25 07:37:44 2017 From: larry at patersondesign.ca (Larry Paterson) Date: Thu, 25 May 2017 07:37:44 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170312_152818.jpg Type: image/jpg Size: 1063710 bytes Desc: not available URL: From larry at patersondesign.ca Thu May 25 07:40:01 2017 From: larry at patersondesign.ca (Larry Paterson) Date: Thu, 25 May 2017 07:40:01 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: References: <20170525133744.5599318.76164.5604@patersondesign.ca> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170312_152818.jpg Type: image/jpg Size: 1063710 bytes Desc: not available URL: From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com Thu May 25 10:07:05 2017 From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jonathan Einhorn) Date: Thu, 25 May 2017 12:07:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for 100-4 Can anyone suggest some good street tires for a 100-4? thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 einhornlawoffice at gmail.com fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu May 25 10:17:28 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Thu, 25 May 2017 10:17:28 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for 100-4 References: Vredstein Classic Sport 165R 15 On 5/25/2017 10:07 AM, Jonathan Einhorn wrote: > Can anyone suggest some good street tires for a 100-4? > > thanks > jon > > -- > Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. > Attorney & Counselor at Law > 129 Whitney Avenue > New Haven, CT. 06510 > tel: 203-777-3777 > fax: 203-782-1721 > cell: 203-623-7373 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Thu May 25 10:55:50 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Thu, 25 May 2017 16:55:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for 100-4 References: , <0bcbcecc-42b6-bddc-f0c5-f7edd2ed16aa@porterscustom.com> Agree Regards, Richard C BN7 #440 Vredstein Classic Sport 165R 15 On 5/25/2017 10:07 AM, Jonathan Einhorn wrote: Can anyone suggest some good street tires for a 100-4? thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 25 11:19:33 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 25 May 2017 10:19:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for 100-4 References: <0bcbcecc-42b6-bddc-f0c5-f7edd2ed16aa@porterscustom.com> I put Nexen 165/80s on our BN2. Haven't put a lot of miles on them, but they handle OK for ~$75/per. Bob On 5/25/2017 9:17 AM, David Porter wrote: > > Vredstein Classic Sport 165R 15 > > > On 5/25/2017 10:07 AM, Jonathan Einhorn wrote: >> Can anyone suggest some good street tires for a 100-4? >> >> thanks >> jon >> >> -- >> Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. >> Attorney & Counselor at Law >> 129 Whitney Avenue >> New Haven, CT. 06510 >> tel: 203-777-3777 >> fax: 203-782-1721 >> cell: 203-623-7373 >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu May 25 12:17:27 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 25 May 2017 18:17:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windshield Assembly References: <453429131.2601101.1495736247985.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I just had the windshield pieces re-chromed and need to put the assembly together. ?Is there a tutorial printed anywhere or should I just try and find an auto glass installer that would handle this?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hgmiller3 at qwest.net Thu May 25 12:56:46 2017 From: hgmiller3 at qwest.net (Herbert Miller) Date: Thu, 25 May 2017 13:56:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 Doors I have a pair of doors that are redundant to my collection. They came off 1959 BT7, specifically H-BT7-L/5197. They are in very good condition, minimal surface rust, no perforations. The driver's door has the provision for a locking door handle. Also available are the aluminum door caps as fitted to these doors and a locking door handle. Contact me if you have any interest. Email for pictures. Offered to the list before E-bay. Herb Miller hgmiller3 at qwest.net hgmiller3 at centurylink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 25 17:06:25 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 25 May 2017 16:06:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windshield Assembly References: <453429131.2601101.1495736247985.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <453429131.2601101.1495736247985@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mike, We did it without instructions for our BN2; of course, my dad being a former auto shop teacher didn't hurt ;) The 100s and I think the early six-cyl cars used glazing rubber to hold the windshield in, whereas the later cars used a U-channel rubber seal. IIRC, it's just a matter of: 1. laying the rubber over the bottom of the glass, then pushing the bottom frame onto the glass 2. same for either side 3. same for the top 4. tighten the screws at the corner brackets I don't recall if we cut the glazing rubber in 4 pieces, or left it as one. Either way, you have to notch the corners at 45deg to get it to fit (obviously, don't leave any gaps). The rubber should be wider than necessary; once the windshield is inserted into the frame trim the rubber with a sharp razor blade along the frame edges at an angle (i.e. don't 'square it off' to the glass). Be careful not to scribe the glass lest bad things might happen. Moss shows the glazing rubber at about $23, if you attempt it and screw it up you can try again without a great loss. It's doable by one, but easier as a two-man job. I doubt many of the contemporary installers--e.g. Safelite--know how to do this; you'd need to go to an oldtimer. Bob On 5/25/2017 11:17 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I just had the windshield pieces re-chromed and need to put the > assembly together. Is there a tutorial printed anywhere or should I > just try and find an auto glass installer that would handle this? > Mike MacLean > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu May 25 19:29:08 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 26 May 2017 01:29:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windshield Assembly References: <453429131.2601101.1495736247985.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <453429131.2601101.1495736247985@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Bob. ?I have the glazing rubber from Moss, but I seem to remember a problem a while ago about the rubber being too thick I hope not. ?The only other question I might have is, did you use a rubber mallet? Do you need some kind of lubrication? ?It looks to be a tight fit. Once it is on, I won't be able to move laterally if it's too far to the right or left. ?Sounds like you have to get ot right the first time.Mike Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Thu, May 25, 2017 at 4:33 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Thu May 25 20:07:32 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Thu, 25 May 2017 22:07:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for 100-4 References: <0bcbcecc-42b6-bddc-f0c5-f7edd2ed16aa@porterscustom.com> <931b28a9-4563-ba88-92ec-2c7980a1acfd@comcast.net> I like the Vredenstein's 185/70 X 15. Fit opening well and great rolling tire with good tread life. 165 looks too small but more concours correct. A little more aggressive looking. Usually in short supply lately. Euro Tire (Bob) in NJ generally has them. Randy Randy Hicks Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar ahca100registrar at gmail.com www.austinhealey100m.com > On May 25, 2017, at 1:19 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > I put Nexen 165/80s on our BN2. Haven't put a lot of miles on them, but they handle OK for ~$75/per. > > Bob > > On 5/25/2017 9:17 AM, David Porter wrote: >> Vredstein Classic Sport 165R 15 >> >> On 5/25/2017 10:07 AM, Jonathan Einhorn wrote: >>> Can anyone suggest some good street tires for a 100-4? >>> >>> thanks >>> jon >>> >>> -- >>> Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. >>> Attorney & Counselor at Law >>> 129 Whitney Avenue >>> New Haven, CT. 06510 >>> tel: 203-777-3777 >>> fax: 203-782-1721 >>> cell: 203-623-7373 >>> >>> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 55healey at comcast.net Thu May 25 20:24:41 2017 From: 55healey at comcast.net (ROBERT A WESTCOTT) Date: Thu, 25 May 2017 19:24:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windshield Assembly References: <453429131.2601101.1495736247985.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <453429131.2601101.1495736247985@mail.yahoo.com> <1013791.158453.1495762148217@mail.yahoo.com> HI Mike, Check the length of the screws for the corner bracket. I used new ones on my BN1 windshield and cracked one corner. Had to get a new piece of glass and used my old, original screws and it worked fine. Some people use silicone spray, some use water with a bit of dishwashing soap for lubrication. Rob ( anyone need a brand new XXX windshield with just a small chip in the corner ) ? > On May 25, 2017, at 6:29 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > Thanks Bob. I have the glazing rubber from Moss, but I seem to remember a problem a while ago about the rubber being too thick I hope not. The only other question I might have is, did you use a rubber mallet? Do you need some kind of lubrication? It looks to be a tight fit. Once it is on, I won't be able to move laterally if it's too far to the right or left. Sounds like you have to get ot right the first time. > Mike > From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 25 22:28:24 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 25 May 2017 21:28:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windshield Assembly References: <453429131.2601101.1495736247985.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <453429131.2601101.1495736247985@mail.yahoo.com> <1013791.158453.1495762148217@mail.yahoo.com> IIRC, the discussion about 'too thick' rubber was for the U-channel seal, but I may not RC. The glazing rubber we got from Moss years ago seemed to be the correct thickness. I don't recall using a mallet or much force at all, nor do I recall using any lubrication, but it was a long time ago. Did you get the Triplex windshield, or the cheaper one? There may be some issues with thickness between the two. We were able to reuse the windshield that came with the car--I spent a day polishing out wiper scratches--and AFAIK it was original, or an OEM replacement. Bob On 5/25/2017 6:29 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Thanks Bob. I have the glazing rubber from Moss, but I seem to > remember a problem a while ago about the rubber being too thick I hope > not. The only other question I might have is, did you use a rubber > mallet? Do you need some kind of lubrication? It looks to be a tight > fit. Once it is on, I won't be able to move laterally if it's too far > to the right or left. Sounds like you have to get ot right the first > time. > Mike > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 25 23:07:05 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 25 May 2017 22:07:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windshield Assembly References: <453429131.2601101.1495736247985.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <453429131.2601101.1495736247985@mail.yahoo.com> <1013791.158453.1495762148217@mail.yahoo.com> ( anyone need a brand new XXX windshield with just a small chip in the corner ) ? Ouch. Found a good source for bolts and screws: https://www.boltdepot.com/ Easy-to-use website, good support--they pulled my order right before shipping so I could add some more items--and fast shipping. Not original Posidrive, but you won't find some of the sizes and lengths our cars need at the local Lowe's or Home Depot. I'm using stainless for almost all replacements these days. NFI. Bob On 5/25/2017 7:24 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT wrote: > HI Mike, > > Check the length of the screws for the corner bracket. I used new ones on my BN1 windshield and cracked one corner. > > Had to get a new piece of glass and used my old, original screws and it worked fine. > > Some people use silicone spray, some use water with a bit of dishwashing soap for lubrication. > > Rob > > ( anyone need a brand new XXX windshield with just a small chip in the corner ) ? > >> On May 25, 2017, at 6:29 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: >> >> Thanks Bob. I have the glazing rubber from Moss, but I seem to remember a problem a while ago about the rubber being too thick I hope not. The only other question I might have is, did you use a rubber mallet? Do you need some kind of lubrication? It looks to be a tight fit. Once it is on, I won't be able to move laterally if it's too far to the right or left. Sounds like you have to get ot right the first time. >> Mike >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com Fri May 26 03:48:10 2017 From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jon Einhorn) Date: Fri, 26 May 2017 05:48:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for 100-4 References: <0bcbcecc-42b6-bddc-f0c5-f7edd2ed16aa@porterscustom.com> <931b28a9-4563-ba88-92ec-2c7980a1acfd@comcast.net> <25AF7CE6-26CF-4FBC-9D47-E4FA4F011BD5@me.com> Thanks: Jon Sent from my iPhone > On May 25, 2017, at 10:07 PM, Randy Hicks wrote: > > I like the Vredenstein's 185/70 X 15. Fit opening well and great rolling tire with good tread life. 165 looks too small but more concours correct. > > A little more aggressive looking. > > Usually in short supply lately. Euro Tire (Bob) in NJ generally has them. > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee > AHCA 100 Registrar > ahca100registrar at gmail.com > www.austinhealey100m.com > >> On May 25, 2017, at 1:19 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> I put Nexen 165/80s on our BN2. Haven't put a lot of miles on them, but they handle OK for ~$75/per. >> >> Bob >> >>> On 5/25/2017 9:17 AM, David Porter wrote: >>> Vredstein Classic Sport 165R 15 >>> >>>> On 5/25/2017 10:07 AM, Jonathan Einhorn wrote: >>>> Can anyone suggest some good street tires for a 100-4? >>>> >>>> thanks >>>> jon >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. >>>> Attorney & Counselor at Law >>>> 129 Whitney Avenue >>>> New Haven, CT. 06510 >>>> tel: 203-777-3777 >>>> einhornlawoffice at gmail.com >>>> fax: 203-782-1721 >>>> cell: 203-623-7373 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/einhornlawoffice at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri May 26 08:25:40 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Fri, 26 May 2017 08:25:40 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Tires for 100-4 References: <0bcbcecc-42b6-bddc-f0c5-f7edd2ed16aa@porterscustom.com> <931b28a9-4563-ba88-92ec-2c7980a1acfd@comcast.net> <25AF7CE6-26CF-4FBC-9D47-E4FA4F011BD5@me.com> But they won't fit in the spare tire opening... otherwise 185 is a good choice On 5/25/2017 8:07 PM, Randy Hicks wrote: > I like the Vredenstein's 185/70 X 15. Fit opening well and great > rolling tire with good tread life. 165 looks too small but more > concours correct. > > A little more aggressive looking. > > Usually in short supply lately. Euro Tire (Bob) in NJ generally has them. > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee > AHCA 100 Registrar > www.austinhealey100m.com > >> On May 25, 2017, at 1:19 PM, Bob Spidell > >> I put Nexen 165/80s on our BN2. Haven't put a lot of miles on them, >> but they handle OK for ~$75/per. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 5/25/2017 9:17 AM, David Porter wrote: >>> >>> Vredstein Classic Sport 165R 15 >>> >>> >>> On 5/25/2017 10:07 AM, Jonathan Einhorn wrote: >>>> Can anyone suggest some good street tires for a 100-4? >>>> >>>> thanks >>>> jon >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. >>>> Attorney & Counselor at Law >>>> 129 Whitney Avenue >>>> New Haven, CT. 06510 >>>> tel: 203-777-3777 >>>> fax: 203-782-1721 >>>> cell: 203-623-7373 >>>> >>>> >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgcharlie at comcast.net Fri May 26 09:05:55 2017 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Fri, 26 May 2017 11:05:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windshield Assembly References: <453429131.2601101.1495736247985.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <453429131.2601101.1495736247985@mail.yahoo.com> <1013791.158453.1495762148217@mail.yahoo.com> <05bf8517-2b5a-c016-1246-829b40815467@comcast.net> When I did a couple of BT7 windshields some years ago the Moss rubber was way too thick. Even though it is rubber it isn't very compressible. I measured the thickness of the glass and channel and determined what thickness rubber was required, which I got from Restoration Specialties in Windber, PA. They have an online catalog, but I think they call it glazing tape. I put contact cement on the rubber and the windshield to keep the rubber wrapped around while tapping the frame onto the glass. The new glass wasn't at the same radius as the old frame and one of the windshields broke down the middle after it was in a while due to too much stress on the glass. Then I had to relieve the radius of the frame a bit to match the replacement glass. > On May 26, 2017 at 12:28 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > > > IIRC, the discussion about 'too thick' rubber was for the U-channel seal, but I may not RC. The glazing rubber we got from Moss years ago seemed to be the correct thickness. I don't recall using a mallet or much force at all, nor do I recall using any lubrication, but it was a long time ago. > > Did you get the Triplex windshield, or the cheaper one? There may be some issues with thickness between the two. We were able to reuse the windshield that came with the car--I spent a day polishing out wiper scratches--and AFAIK it was original, or an OEM replacement. > > Bob > > > On 5/25/2017 6:29 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > > > Thanks Bob. I have the glazing rubber from Moss, but I seem to remember a problem a while ago about the rubber being too thick I hope not. The only other question I might have is, did you use a rubber mallet? Do you need some kind of lubrication? It looks to be a tight fit. Once it is on, I won't be able to move laterally if it's too far to the right or left. Sounds like you have to get ot right the first time. > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Fri May 26 13:33:27 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 26 May 2017 19:33:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windshield Assembly References: <453429131.2601101.1495736247985.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <453429131.2601101.1495736247985@mail.yahoo.com> <1013791.158453.1495762148217@mail.yahoo.com> <05bf8517-2b5a-c016-1246-829b40815467@comcast.net>, <994440482.432178.1495811155541@connect.xfinity.com> Most "glazing rubber" can be obtained by purchasing it at a windshield repair place if you are willing to purchase a complete roll. Some places, if you are a good customer, may even give you some to do your Austin-Healey windshield. It comes in three different thickness and usually the thinnest one is the one you will need. Not all places carry it anymore as the windshileds nowadays do not use the stuff anymore. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Charlie Baldwin Sent: May 26, 2017 3:05 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Windshield Assembly When I did a couple of BT7 windshields some years ago the Moss rubber was way too thick. Even though it is rubber it isn't very compressible. I measured the thickness of the glass and channel and determined what thickness rubber was required, which I got from Restoration Specialties in Windber, PA. They have an online catalog, but I think they call it glazing tape. I put contact cement on the rubber and the windshield to keep the rubber wrapped around while tapping the frame onto the glass. The new glass wasn't at the same radius as the old frame and one of the windshields broke down the middle after it was in a while due to too much stress on the glass. Then I had to relieve the radius of the frame a bit to match the replacement glass. On May 26, 2017 at 12:28 AM Bob Spidell wrote: IIRC, the discussion about 'too thick' rubber was for the U-channel seal, but I may not RC. The glazing rubber we got from Moss years ago seemed to be the correct thickness. I don't recall using a mallet or much force at all, nor do I recall using any lubrication, but it was a long time ago. Did you get the Triplex windshield, or the cheaper one? There may be some issues with thickness between the two. We were able to reuse the windshield that came with the car--I spent a day polishing out wiper scratches--and AFAIK it was original, or an OEM replacement. Bob On 5/25/2017 6:29 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Thanks Bob. I have the glazing rubber from Moss, but I seem to remember a problem a while ago about the rubber being too thick I hope not. The only other question I might have is, did you use a rubber mallet? Do you need some kind of lubrication? It looks to be a tight fit. Once it is on, I won't be able to move laterally if it's too far to the right or left. Sounds like you have to get ot right the first time. Mike _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Fri May 26 15:25:13 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Sat, 27 May 2017 07:25:13 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windshield Assembly References: <453429131.2601101.1495736247985.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <453429131.2601101.1495736247985@mail.yahoo.com> <1013791.158453.1495762148217@mail.yahoo.com> <05bf8517-2b5a-c016-1246-829b40815467@comcast.net> <994440482.432178.1495811155541@connect.xfinity.com> ...best thing to use is uncured rubber strip ? you moisten it with kerosene which makes it slippery ? much easier to fit Cheers Peter From: Charlie Baldwin Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2017 1:05 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Windshield Assembly When I did a couple of BT7 windshields some years ago the Moss rubber was way too thick. Even though it is rubber it isn't very compressible. I measured the thickness of the glass and channel and determined what thickness rubber was required, which I got from Restoration Specialties in Windber, PA. They have an online catalog, but I think they call it glazing tape. I put contact cement on the rubber and the windshield to keep the rubber wrapped around while tapping the frame onto the glass. The new glass wasn't at the same radius as the old frame and one of the windshields broke down the middle after it was in a while due to too much stress on the glass. Then I had to relieve the radius of the frame a bit to match the replacement glass. On May 26, 2017 at 12:28 AM Bob Spidell wrote: IIRC, the discussion about 'too thick' rubber was for the U-channel seal, but I may not RC. The glazing rubber we got from Moss years ago seemed to be the correct thickness. I don't recall using a mallet or much force at all, nor do I recall using any lubrication, but it was a long time ago. Did you get the Triplex windshield, or the cheaper one? There may be some issues with thickness between the two. We were able to reuse the windshield that came with the car--I spent a day polishing out wiper scratches--and AFAIK it was original, or an OEM replacement. Bob On 5/25/2017 6:29 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Thanks Bob. I have the glazing rubber from Moss, but I seem to remember a problem a while ago about the rubber being too thick I hope not. The only other question I might have is, did you use a rubber mallet? Do you need some kind of lubrication? It looks to be a tight fit. Once it is on, I won't be able to move laterally if it's too far to the right or left. Sounds like you have to get ot right the first time. Mike _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat May 27 05:14:04 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 27 May 2017 21:14:04 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Water Pump Stud G'day Had a half hour to spare this afternoon so I thought I would fit the new water pump to the BN3's six-cylinder engine. Of the four nuts, three tightened without a problem. but I managed to strip the thread the stud thread on the fourth. Normally I would use the twin nut method, but with the stud stripped that's not possible. So what to do? My 40+ year old vice-grips (mole-grips) can't handle the strain and I don't have a welder to weld on a nut, nor do I have an extractor. Was thinking about filing the end of the stud flat on two sides and using a crescent wrench or what we call a shifting spanner. Any experienced advice out there? Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Sat May 27 05:40:42 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sat, 27 May 2017 7:40:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Water Pump Stud get new and larger vice grips--seriously. tom ---- Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: ============= G'day Had a half hour to spare this afternoon so I thought I would fit the new water pump to the BN3's six-cylinder engine. Of the four nuts, three tightened without a problem. but I managed to strip the thread the stud thread on the fourth. Normally I would use the twin nut method, but with the stud stripped that's not possible. So what to do? My 40+ year old vice-grips (mole-grips) can't handle the strain and I don't have a welder to weld on a nut, nor do I have an extractor. Was thinking about filing the end of the stud flat on two sides and using a crescent wrench or what we call a shifting spanner. Any experienced advice out there? Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat May 27 06:11:02 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 27 May 2017 14:11:02 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Water Pump Stud References: <019401d2d6da$5ab1ebf0$1015c3d0$@tpg.com.au> Before you start attacking the stud apply some proper penetrating oil for several days, heat up the stud with a blow torch, let it cool down and give it another douse of penetrating oil. Fit two new nuts, they may still have some grip, give the stud a few taps (not blows) on the head with a hammer to break up the rust, try to turn a mere fraction clockwise with the lower nut hitting the non threaded part (a few taps on the stud while under tension may help), then tighten up the upper nut and using the lower nut unscrew. Be careful not to shear of the stud!!! Most of the time the thread in the nut would strip as the stud/bolt is supposed to be a stronger spec than the nut. So have a good look first which one has been stripped Filing flats to the stud will not do any good if the stud is tight with rust. Simply not enough surface to get a hold on. Kees Oudesluijs Op 27-5-2017 om 13:14 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn: > > G?day > > Had a half hour to spare this afternoon so I thought I would fit the > new water pump to the BN3?s six-cylinder engine. > > Of the four nuts, three tightened without a problem. but I managed to > strip the thread the stud thread on the fourth. > > Normally I would use the twin nut method, but with the stud stripped > that?s not possible. So what to do? My 40+ year old vice-grips > (mole-grips) can?t handle the strain and I don?t have a welder to weld > on a nut, nor do I have an extractor. > > Was thinking about filing the end of the stud flat on two sides and > using a crescent wrench or what we call a shifting spanner. Any > experienced advice out there? > > Many thanks > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sat May 27 06:50:53 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Sat, 27 May 2017 22:50:53 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Water Pump Stud References: <019401d2d6da$5ab1ebf0$1015c3d0$@tpg.com.au> I guess then you don?t have/can't borrow a stud extractor? (the tubular type is better) If it's that tight you're likely to end up snapping it off. Possibly recut a slightly smaller thread? Cheers Peter From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2017 9:14 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Water Pump Stud G?day Had a half hour to spare this afternoon so I thought I would fit the new water pump to the BN3?s six-cylinder engine. Of the four nuts, three tightened without a problem. but I managed to strip the thread the stud thread on the fourth. Normally I would use the twin nut method, but with the stud stripped that?s not possible. So what to do? My 40+ year old vice-grips (mole-grips) can?t handle the strain and I don?t have a welder to weld on a nut, nor do I have an extractor. Was thinking about filing the end of the stud flat on two sides and using a crescent wrench or what we call a shifting spanner. Any experienced advice out there? Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: stud extractor1.png Type: image/png Size: 36476 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: stud extractor2.png Type: image/png Size: 28188 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 27 07:09:17 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 27 May 2017 06:09:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Water Pump Stud References: <20170527074042.LFRMD.11774.root@pamxwww06-z01> Agreed, but be careful; with enough leverage you could snap it off. I'd soak it in your favorite penetrating oil--I like Kroil--for a few days. Maybe heat the area with a propane torch to help the oil penetrate. Bob On 5/27/2017 4:40 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > get new and larger vice grips--seriously. > > tom > ---- Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > > ============= > G'day > > > > Had a half hour to spare this afternoon so I thought I would fit the new > water pump to the BN3's six-cylinder engine. > > > > Of the four nuts, three tightened without a problem. but I managed to strip > the thread the stud thread on the fourth. > > > > Normally I would use the twin nut method, but with the stud stripped that's > not possible. So what to do? My 40+ year old vice-grips (mole-grips) can't > handle the strain and I don't have a welder to weld on a nut, nor do I have > an extractor. > > > > Was thinking about filing the end of the stud flat on two sides and using a > crescent wrench or what we call a shifting spanner. Any experienced advice > out there? > > > > Many thanks > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > From llennep at verizon.net Sat May 27 07:58:42 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 27 May 2017 08:58:42 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Water Pump Stud I'm with tom on this one. As Kees noted also apply penetrating oil over a period of multiple days. Once the vice grips are in place tap it in the loosen and tighten directions with light to moderate force. Tap the end of the stud also. The idea is to break the bond of the rust and not to loosen the nut at first. Good luck! Keith On 05/27/17, Tom Felts wrote: get new and larger vice grips--seriously. tom ---- Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: ============= G'day Had a half hour to spare this afternoon so I thought I would fit the new water pump to the BN3's six-cylinder engine. Of the four nuts, three tightened without a problem. but I managed to strip the thread the stud thread on the fourth. Normally I would use the twin nut method, but with the stud stripped that's not possible. So what to do? My 40+ year old vice-grips (mole-grips) can't handle the strain and I don't have a welder to weld on a nut, nor do I have an extractor. Was thinking about filing the end of the stud flat on two sides and using a crescent wrench or what we call a shifting spanner. Any experienced advice out there? Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat May 27 21:37:48 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 28 May 2017 03:37:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Number? References: <1171659919.1555334.1495942668991.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Does anyone have a unrestored car or remember seeing a number on the left inside wall of the boot.? When I got my BN2 Body, this was the only number that was on the car, if it was a number. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BN2-3.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 206849 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 27 22:56:24 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 27 May 2017 21:56:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Number? References: <1171659919.1555334.1495942668991.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1171659919.1555334.1495942668991@mail.yahoo.com> Michael, When we got our BN2/100M is was in relatively decent, unrestored shape, and we took it down to bare metal and I don't recall seeing anything resembling a hand-drawn number in the boot (but there was a lot of glue residue). Then again, there are a lot of things I don't remember anymore. That does look like a number 10. Since the cars were assembled from a stack of body parts it wouldn't surprise me if the workers wrote numbers, notes etc. on the parts. Maybe that was the time for the first beer break. Bob On 5/27/2017 8:37 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Does anyone have a unrestored car or remember seeing a number on the > left inside wall of the boot. When I got my BN2 Body, this was the > only number that was on the car, if it was a number. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun May 28 02:29:45 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 28 May 2017 10:29:45 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Number? References: <1171659919.1555334.1495942668991.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1171659919.1555334.1495942668991@mail.yahoo.com> Panel fit was not at its best for the A-H 100-3000 and panels were sorted for best fit on a particular car. This might explain the numbers? Kees Oudesluijs Op 28-5-2017 om 5:37 schreef Michael MacLean: > Does anyone have a unrestored car or remember seeing a number on the > left inside wall of the boot. When I got my BN2 Body, this was the > only number that was on the car, if it was a number. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sun May 28 17:00:28 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Sun, 28 May 2017 16:00:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable Any hints on replacing the speedometer cable on my BJ8? From above or below.....? -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sun May 28 17:04:12 2017 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Mon, 29 May 2017 11:04:12 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Number? References: <1171659919.1555334.1495942668991.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1171659919.1555334.1495942668991@mail.yahoo.com> <97135fbd-a9b6-2892-831e-fc5ee9afccd4@comcast.net> Ah . . . I believe that might be "tea" break, Bob. Mark Ardmore, NZ _____ From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Sunday, 28 May 2017 4:56 p.m. To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number? Michael, When we got our BN2/100M is was in relatively decent, unrestored shape, and we took it down to bare metal and I don't recall seeing anything resembling a hand-drawn number in the boot (but there was a lot of glue residue). Then again, there are a lot of things I don't remember anymore. That does look like a number 10. Since the cars were assembled from a stack of body parts it wouldn't surprise me if the workers wrote numbers, notes etc. on the parts. Maybe that was the time for the first beer break. Bob On 5/27/2017 8:37 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Does anyone have a unrestored car or remember seeing a number on the left inside wall of the boot. When I got my BN2 Body, this was the only number that was on the car, if it was a number. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Sun May 28 18:06:52 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Sun, 28 May 2017 18:06:52 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: Finally a question I can help with! As a new Healy owner I've been lurking on the list for the past few weeks, soaking up the questions and answers as best a new Healy owner can. Answer to your question Mike : from above. Definitely. Take the seats out, remove the radio console and transmission tunnel, and all is exposed. Did this earlier today on our BJ8 to replace a missing engine/bell housing bolt and did not take too long at all. Bob -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike S Sent: May 28, 2017 5:00 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] cable Any hints on replacing the speedometer cable on my BJ8? From above or below.....? -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/engl at accesscomm.ca From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 28 19:49:09 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 28 May 2017 18:49:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <02ef01d2d80f$7a03bca0$6e0b35e0$@ca> Don't disagree, but just for the record, you can get the cable--with sheath--off from below. The fitting should be finger tight, but if it's torqued on you can use small channel lock pliers. It's tight, but I've done it. If you just need to clean/lube the inner cable, simply unscrew the sheath from the back of the speedo and pull the inner cable out. Replacement is the opposite of removal. Bob On 5/28/2017 5:06 PM, Bob England wrote: > Finally a question I can help with! As a new Healy owner I've been lurking > on the list for the past few weeks, soaking up the questions and answers as > best a new Healy owner can. > > Answer to your question Mike : from above. Definitely. Take the seats out, > remove the radio console and transmission tunnel, and all is exposed. Did > this earlier today on our BJ8 to replace a missing engine/bell housing bolt > and did not take too long at all. > > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike S > Sent: May 28, 2017 5:00 PM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] cable > > Any hints on replacing the speedometer cable on my BJ8? From above or > below.....? > > -- > Mike > > MGTD (long gone) > BN1 (long gone) > BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) > BJ8 > > > > From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun May 28 20:18:32 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 28 May 2017 19:18:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <02ef01d2d80f$7a03bca0$6e0b35e0$@ca> Not sure what it takes to get to the back of the speedo but on my BT7 I unscrew the cable housing and pull out the cable. A new one can be slipped in if the housing is good. John '62 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob England Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 5:07 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] cable Finally a question I can help with! As a new Healy owner I've been lurking on the list for the past few weeks, soaking up the questions and answers as best a new Healy owner can. Answer to your question Mike : from above. Definitely. Take the seats out, remove the radio console and transmission tunnel, and all is exposed. Did this earlier today on our BJ8 to replace a missing engine/bell housing bolt and did not take too long at all. Bob -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike S Sent: May 28, 2017 5:00 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] cable Any hints on replacing the speedometer cable on my BJ8? From above or below.....? -- Mike From engl at accesscomm.ca Sun May 28 20:42:17 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Sun, 28 May 2017 20:42:17 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <02ef01d2d80f$7a03bca0$6e0b35e0$@ca> Mike Bob is 100% correct - I went out and re-looked at the car, and from below would work too. If you are replacing the angle drive at the same time it could be a bit fiddly from below as the angle drive goes into the overdrive right above the rear transmission mount, but I think doable. I can send photos if you think this would be helpful. Other Bob -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: May 28, 2017 7:49 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] cable Don't disagree, but just for the record, you can get the cable--with sheath--off from below. The fitting should be finger tight, but if it's torqued on you can use small channel lock pliers. It's tight, but I've done it. If you just need to clean/lube the inner cable, simply unscrew the sheath from the back of the speedo and pull the inner cable out. Replacement is the opposite of removal. Bob On 5/28/2017 5:06 PM, Bob England wrote: > Finally a question I can help with! As a new Healy owner I've been > lurking on the list for the past few weeks, soaking up the questions > and answers as best a new Healy owner can. > > Answer to your question Mike : from above. Definitely. Take the > seats out, remove the radio console and transmission tunnel, and all > is exposed. Did this earlier today on our BJ8 to replace a missing > engine/bell housing bolt and did not take too long at all. > > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Mike S > Sent: May 28, 2017 5:00 PM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] cable > > Any hints on replacing the speedometer cable on my BJ8? From above or > below.....? > > -- > Mike > > MGTD (long gone) > BN1 (long gone) > BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) > BJ8 > > > > _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/engl at accesscomm.ca From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun May 28 20:52:28 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 29 May 2017 12:52:28 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Water Pump Stud - now fan belt size Hello Thank you to those who responded about the stripped stud. Managed to remove it by using an angle grinder to flatten two sides of the stud and then used a shifting spanner (crescent wrench) to unscrew it. I fitted a brand new water pump that has a slightly smaller pulley than fitted originally to early six-cylinder engines. That went okay, but after fitting the fan belt now find that the generator hits the steering column due to the smaller pulley. Fitting a six-cylinder into a four-cylinder engine bay has more complications than meets the eye. There are two fan belts sitting next to me as follows:- Dayco 15455 11A1155 Flennor AVX10X1150LA A5115 Both belts are recommended for fitting to a standard six-cylinder Austin-Healey (not BJ8) with a length of 45.05 inches, width .44 inch and an angle of 36 degrees. However these are now too long. I have looked for a website that would allow me to punch in the length needed (say 44 or 43 inches - open to suggestions) but can't find one. Has anyone come across such a site or can offer advice? Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Saturday, 27 May 2017 9:14 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Water Pump Stud G'day Had a half hour to spare this afternoon so I thought I would fit the new water pump to the BN3's six-cylinder engine. Of the four nuts, three tightened without a problem. but I managed to strip the thread the stud thread on the fourth. Normally I would use the twin nut method, but with the stud stripped that's not possible. So what to do? My 40+ year old vice-grips (mole-grips) can't handle the strain and I don't have a welder to weld on a nut, nor do I have an extractor. Was thinking about filing the end of the stud flat on two sides and using a crescent wrench or what we call a shifting spanner. Any experienced advice out there? Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk Sun May 28 21:41:53 2017 From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge) Date: Mon, 29 May 2017 03:41:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Number? References: <756592706.3030873.1496029313256.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Most certainly! -------------------------------------------- On Sun, 28/5/17, Mark Donaldson wrote: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number? To: "'Bob Spidell'" , healeys at autox.team.net Date: Sunday, 28 May, 2017, 16:04 #yiv8915942566 #yiv8915942566 -- _filtered #yiv8915942566 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} #yiv8915942566 #yiv8915942566 p.yiv8915942566MsoNormal, #yiv8915942566 li.yiv8915942566MsoNormal, #yiv8915942566 div.yiv8915942566MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;color:black;} #yiv8915942566 a:link, #yiv8915942566 span.yiv8915942566MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv8915942566 a:visited, #yiv8915942566 span.yiv8915942566MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv8915942566 p {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:12.0pt;color:black;} #yiv8915942566 pre {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;color:black;} #yiv8915942566 span.yiv8915942566EmailStyle19 {font-family:Tahoma;color:navy;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none none;} _filtered #yiv8915942566 {margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;} #yiv8915942566 div.yiv8915942566Section1 {} #yiv8915942566 Ah? . . .? I believe that might be "tea" break, Bob. ? Mark Ardmore, NZ ? From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Sunday, 28 May 2017 4:56 p.m. To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number? ? Michael, When we got our BN2/100M is was in relatively decent, unrestored shape, and we took it down to bare metal and I don't recall seeing anything resembling a hand-drawn number in the boot (but there was a lot of glue residue).? Then again, there are a lot of things I don't remember anymore. That does look like a number 10.? Since the cars were assembled from a stack of body parts it wouldn't surprise me if the workers wrote numbers, notes etc. on the parts.? Maybe that was the time for the first beer break. Bob ? On 5/27/2017 8:37 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Does anyone have a unrestored car or remember seeing a number on the left inside wall of the boot.? When I got my BN2 Body, this was the only number that was on the car, if it was a number. ? ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sun May 28 21:56:23 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Sun, 28 May 2017 20:56:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <1e2fd9a2-45aa-4044-28e2-bbf578eb4cc0@comcast.net> Interestingly, the speedo was working fine, until one day it didn't. No warning. I decided to unhook the connection at the back of the speedo and see if the square end of the cable was rotatable. To my surprise, the entire cable was not even connected to the speedometer. Just hanging loose. Since it takes quite a few turns to screw it on, this seems odd. Connecting it did not solve the problem. Anyway, the cable itself turns quite easily; does this mean the cable itself is broken? If so, I will have to pull each end out separately. It's a real pain to get under the car, as it is an inch off the ground (it seems), and I am more than an inch thick. Working from the top as Bob suggested sounds better. Mike On 5/28/2017 7:18 PM, John Spaur wrote: > Not sure what it takes to get to the back of the speedo but on my BT7 I > unscrew the cable housing and pull out the cable. A new one can be slipped > in if the housing is good. > > John > '62 BT7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > England > Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 5:07 PM > To: 'Healey List' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] cable > > Finally a question I can help with! As a new Healy owner I've been lurking > on the list for the past few weeks, soaking up the questions and answers as > best a new Healy owner can. > > Answer to your question Mike : from above. Definitely. Take the seats out, > remove the radio console and transmission tunnel, and all is exposed. Did > this earlier today on our BJ8 to replace a missing engine/bell housing bolt > and did not take too long at all. > > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike S > Sent: May 28, 2017 5:00 PM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] cable > > Any hints on replacing the speedometer cable on my BJ8? From above or > below.....? > > -- > Mike > > > -- -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun May 28 22:34:16 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 28 May 2017 21:34:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <02ef01d2d80f$7a03bca0$6e0b35e0$@ca> <000001d2d821$df6711c0$9e353540$@sbcglobal.net> John They route differently in a BJ8. It goes through a hole in the fiberglass tunnel, not out the front of our metal tunnels. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Sun, May 28, 2017 at 7:18 PM, John Spaur wrote: > Not sure what it takes to get to the back of the speedo but on my BT7 I > unscrew the cable housing and pull out the cable. A new one can be slipped > in if the housing is good. > > John > '62 BT7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > England > Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 5:07 PM > To: 'Healey List' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] cable > > Finally a question I can help with! As a new Healy owner I've been lurking > on the list for the past few weeks, soaking up the questions and answers as > best a new Healy owner can. > > Answer to your question Mike : from above. Definitely. Take the seats > out, > remove the radio console and transmission tunnel, and all is exposed. Did > this earlier today on our BJ8 to replace a missing engine/bell housing bolt > and did not take too long at all. > > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike S > Sent: May 28, 2017 5:00 PM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] cable > > Any hints on replacing the speedometer cable on my BJ8? From above or > below.....? > > -- > Mike > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Mon May 29 01:04:01 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Mon, 29 May 2017 17:04:01 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Water Pump Stud - now fan belt size References: <00c101d2d826$9e017c20$da047460$@tpg.com.au> ...if that's a 45 inch belt Patrick you should be able to go to BSC or similar and ask for a 44 inch (or whatever) belt. I've just gone through that exercise (4 times!) to get a belt the right length for the blower drive on my MG TC. There are calculators online into which you put the pulley sizes and distance between centres, but for my application it said I needed a 50 inch belt ? a 47 inch turned out to be correct! Cheers Peter From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Monday, May 29, 2017 12:52 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stripped Water Pump Stud - now fan belt size Hello Thank you to those who responded about the stripped stud. Managed to remove it by using an angle grinder to flatten two sides of the stud and then used a shifting spanner (crescent wrench) to unscrew it. I fitted a brand new water pump that has a slightly smaller pulley than fitted originally to early six-cylinder engines. That went okay, but after fitting the fan belt now find that the generator hits the steering column due to the smaller pulley. Fitting a six-cylinder into a four-cylinder engine bay has more complications than meets the eye. There are two fan belts sitting next to me as follows:- Dayco 15455 11A1155 Flennor AVX10X1150LA A5115 Both belts are recommended for fitting to a standard six-cylinder Austin-Healey (not BJ8) with a length of 45.05 inches, width .44 inch and an angle of 36 degrees. However these are now too long. I have looked for a website that would allow me to punch in the length needed (say 44 or 43 inches ? open to suggestions) but can?t find one. Has anyone come across such a site or can offer advice? Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Saturday, 27 May 2017 9:14 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Stripped Water Pump Stud G?day Had a half hour to spare this afternoon so I thought I would fit the new water pump to the BN3?s six-cylinder engine. Of the four nuts, three tightened without a problem. but I managed to strip the thread the stud thread on the fourth. Normally I would use the twin nut method, but with the stud stripped that?s not possible. So what to do? My 40+ year old vice-grips (mole-grips) can?t handle the strain and I don?t have a welder to weld on a nut, nor do I have an extractor. Was thinking about filing the end of the stud flat on two sides and using a crescent wrench or what we call a shifting spanner. Any experienced advice out there? Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 29 07:46:33 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 29 May 2017 06:46:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <1e2fd9a2-45aa-4044-28e2-bbf578eb4cc0@comcast.net> There were some defective cables going around a few years ago but, IIRC, they were a bit too long at the speedo end and damaged the speedo. I've never heard of a speedo cable breaking--they usually just kink--but I'm sure it's possible, esp. if it got locked up inside the speedo. Check that the cable hasn't just come loose at the OD end (though not likely as it would be too long to go properly back into the speedo). You can do this by futzing with the inner cable at the speedo until you feel it go into the drive, at which point it should resist turning. You're right, it's odd the cable would come loose at the speedo end. But, the connector is a very fine thread and it would be easy to cross-thread; maybe someone just got frustrated with it and jammed it on? My gut feeling is the adapter is broken somehow, but more investigation is warranted. The adapter should have a small copper washer acting as a spacer for the cable; the adapter can fail if this washer is missing: http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/021-511.pdf Bob On 5/28/2017 8:56 PM, Mike S wrote: > Interestingly, the speedo was working fine, until one day it didn't. > No warning. I decided to unhook the connection at the back of the > speedo and see if the square end of the cable was rotatable. To my > surprise, the entire cable was not even connected to the speedometer. > Just hanging loose. Since it takes quite a few turns to screw it on, > this seems odd. Connecting it did not solve the problem. Anyway, the > cable itself turns quite easily; does this mean the cable itself is > broken? If so, I will have to pull each end out separately. It's a > real pain to get under the car, as it is an inch off the ground (it > seems), and I am more than an inch thick. Working from the top as Bob > suggested sounds better. > > Mike > > > On 5/28/2017 7:18 PM, John Spaur wrote: >> Not sure what it takes to get to the back of the speedo but on my BT7 I >> unscrew the cable housing and pull out the cable. A new one can be slipped >> in if the housing is good. >> >> John >> '62 BT7 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> England >> Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 5:07 PM >> To: 'Healey List' >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] cable >> >> Finally a question I can help with! As a new Healy owner I've been lurking >> on the list for the past few weeks, soaking up the questions and answers as >> best a new Healy owner can. >> >> Answer to your question Mike : from above. Definitely. Take the seats out, >> remove the radio console and transmission tunnel, and all is exposed. Did >> this earlier today on our BJ8 to replace a missing engine/bell housing bolt >> and did not take too long at all. >> >> Bob >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike S >> Sent: May 28, 2017 5:00 PM >> To: Healey List >> Subject: [Healeys] cable >> >> Any hints on replacing the speedometer cable on my BJ8? From above or >> below.....? >> >> -- >> Mike >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon May 29 08:54:38 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 29 May 2017 07:54:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <02ef01d2d80f$7a03bca0$6e0b35e0$@ca> <000001d2d821$df6711c0$9e353540$@sbcglobal.net> Ira, I have a fiberglass tunnel with the hole and grommet. My BT7 was way ahead of the BJ8. Just letting people know there are alternatives to replacing the speedo cable if you leave the housing in place on any Healey. John Spaur San Jose, CA From: i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 9:34 PM To: John Spaur Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] cable John They route differently in a BJ8. It goes through a hole in the fiberglass tunnel, not out the front of our metal tunnels. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words Not sure what it takes to get to the back of the speedo but on my BT7 I unscrew the cable housing and pull out the cable. A new one can be slipped in if the housing is good. John '62 BT7 -----Original Message----- England Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 5:07 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] cable Finally a question I can help with! As a new Healy owner I've been lurking on the list for the past few weeks, soaking up the questions and answers as best a new Healy owner can. Answer to your question Mike : from above. Definitely. Take the seats out, remove the radio console and transmission tunnel, and all is exposed. Did this earlier today on our BJ8 to replace a missing engine/bell housing bolt and did not take too long at all. Bob -----Original Message----- Sent: May 28, 2017 5:00 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] cable Any hints on replacing the speedometer cable on my BJ8? From above or below.....? -- Mike _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Mon May 29 11:16:45 2017 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Mon, 29 May 2017 10:16:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <1e2fd9a2-45aa-4044-28e2-bbf578eb4cc0@comcast.net> <1b00e9fa-dde1-99bb-c0c4-9604385a2249@comcast.net> I have had two occasions where the speedo has stopped working. In both cases, it was because the right angle drive at the transmission had come apart and the gear had fallen out. The "cap" is similar to a freeze plug on the engine. Concave shape that you tap to expand it when it is installed. Luckily, all the parts fell onto the "X" member of the frame which is right below it and were recovered even after having driven several miles. As I recall, there is the cap, a special spacer, and the gear. I replaced the innards, and secured the cap by restoring its concave shape and then tapping it tight again. Having looked at Bob's link, below, page 2, I believe that I do not have the washer installed that is recommended. I will check this the next time I have the tunnel up or out. I say "up" because you do not need to remove the tunnel cover, just get the back end of it up enough to access the angle drive. Getting to it from underneath may be less time consuming but I have never tried it. (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 215,543 miles ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, May 29, 2017 6:46 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] cable There were some defective cables going around a few years ago but, IIRC, they were a bit too long at the speedo end and damaged the speedo. I've never heard of a speedo cable breaking--they usually just kink--but I'm sure it's possible, esp. if it got locked up inside the speedo. Check that the cable hasn't just come loose at the OD end (though not likely as it would be too long to go properly back into the speedo). You can do this by futzing with the inner cable at the speedo until you feel it go into the drive, at which point it should resist turning. You're right, it's odd the cable would come loose at the speedo end. But, the connector is a very fine thread and it would be easy to cross-thread; maybe someone just got frustrated with it and jammed it on? My gut feeling is the adapter is broken somehow, but more investigation is warranted. The adapter should have a small copper washer acting as a spacer for the cable; the adapter can fail if this washer is missing: http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/021-511.pdf Bob On 5/28/2017 8:56 PM, Mike S wrote: Interestingly, the speedo was working fine, until one day it didn't. No warning. I decided to unhook the connection at the back of the speedo and see if the square end of the cable was rotatable. To my surprise, the entire cable was not even connected to the speedometer. Just hanging loose. Since it takes quite a few turns to screw it on, this seems odd. Connecting it did not solve the problem. Anyway, the cable itself turns quite easily; does this mean the cable itself is broken? If so, I will have to pull each end out separately. It's a real pain to get under the car, as it is an inch off the ground (it seems), and I am more than an inch thick. Working from the top as Bob suggested sounds better. Mike -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon May 29 11:19:24 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 29 May 2017 10:19:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <02ef01d2d80f$7a03bca0$6e0b35e0$@ca> <000001d2d821$df6711c0$9e353540$@sbcglobal.net> <1e2fd9a2-45aa-4044-28e2-bbf578eb4cc0@comcast.net> Mike, Remove the cable housing at the back of the speedo and pull the cable out. Have a rag or paper towel handy to catch the cable lubricant, if there is any. If it is broken, you will know it because each end should be the same. You should do this anyway to check the cable length, which could vary regardless of what the parts manual, Moss catalog or whatever states. You can check the cable to find out if it is good by putting it on a flat surface and rolling it with the palm of your hand. If it hops, it is damaged, replace it. I don?t know what damages it, perhaps bending the housing too much. So, best to replace the housing too. John Spaur From: Mike S [mailto:phoenix722 at comcast.net] Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 8:56 PM To: John Spaur Subject: Re: [Healeys] cable Interestingly, the speedo was working fine, until one day it didn't. No warning. I decided to unhook the connection at the back of the speedo and see if the square end of the cable was rotatable. To my surprise, the entire cable was not even connected to the speedometer. Just hanging loose. Since it takes quite a few turns to screw it on, this seems odd. Connecting it did not solve the problem. Anyway, the cable itself turns quite easily; does this mean the cable itself is broken? If so, I will have to pull each end out separately. It's a real pain to get under the car, as it is an inch off the ground (it seems), and I am more than an inch thick. Working from the top as Bob suggested sounds better. Mike On 5/28/2017 7:18 PM, John Spaur wrote: Not sure what it takes to get to the back of the speedo but on my BT7 I unscrew the cable housing and pull out the cable. A new one can be slipped in if the housing is good. John '62 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob England Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 5:07 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] cable Finally a question I can help with! As a new Healy owner I've been lurking on the list for the past few weeks, soaking up the questions and answers as best a new Healy owner can. Answer to your question Mike : from above. Definitely. Take the seats out, remove the radio console and transmission tunnel, and all is exposed. Did this earlier today on our BJ8 to replace a missing engine/bell housing bolt and did not take too long at all. Bob -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike S Sent: May 28, 2017 5:00 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] cable Any hints on replacing the speedometer cable on my BJ8? From above or below.....? -- Mike -- -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon May 29 11:20:09 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 29 May 2017 10:20:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <1e2fd9a2-45aa-4044-28e2-bbf578eb4cc0@comcast.net> <1b00e9fa-dde1-99bb-c0c4-9604385a2249@comcast.net> They would damage the speedo bearing which freeze and cause the angle drive to break. Angle drives can be repaired by removing the metal disks and shaping a short piece of speedo cable to replace the broken one. John Spaur From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, May 29, 2017 6:47 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] cable There were some defective cables going around a few years ago but, IIRC, they were a bit too long at the speedo end and damaged the speedo. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Mon May 29 11:39:42 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Mon, 29 May 2017 10:39:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <20170529072128.GB2D6.16325.root@pamxwww02-z01> Well, the cable is in one piece, and looks ok, still a nice square on both ends. I will pull the right angle drive. Question. If I remove the drive, will all the oil run out? I hope not. Mike On 5/29/2017 4:21 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > if it turns easily from the top, either the cable is broken---the cable is to short--or the other end of the cable has rounded out---or lastly--the right angle drive is broken. Pull it all out and inspect all pieces. > > tom > ---- Mike S wrote: > > ============= > Interestingly, the speedo was working fine, until one day it didn't. No > warning. I decided to unhook the connection at the back of the speedo > and see if the square end of the cable was rotatable. To my surprise, > the entire cable was not even connected to the speedometer. Just > hanging loose. Since it takes quite a few turns to screw it on, this > seems odd. Connecting it did not solve the problem. Anyway, the cable > itself turns quite easily; does this mean the cable itself is broken? > If so, I will have to pull each end out separately. It's a real pain to > get under the car, as it is an inch off the ground (it seems), and I am > more than an inch thick. Working from the top as Bob suggested sounds > better. > > Mike > > > On 5/28/2017 7:18 PM, John Spaur wrote: >> Not sure what it takes to get to the back of the speedo but on my BT7 I >> unscrew the cable housing and pull out the cable. A new one can be slipped >> in if the housing is good. >> >> John >> '62 BT7 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> England >> Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 5:07 PM >> To: 'Healey List' >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] cable >> >> Finally a question I can help with! As a new Healy owner I've been lurking >> on the list for the past few weeks, soaking up the questions and answers as >> best a new Healy owner can. >> >> Answer to your question Mike : from above. Definitely. Take the seats out, >> remove the radio console and transmission tunnel, and all is exposed. Did >> this earlier today on our BJ8 to replace a missing engine/bell housing bolt >> and did not take too long at all. >> >> Bob >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike S >> Sent: May 28, 2017 5:00 PM >> To: Healey List >> Subject: [Healeys] cable >> >> Any hints on replacing the speedometer cable on my BJ8? From above or >> below.....? >> >> -- >> Mike >> >> >> -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 From dkgraber85 at yahoo.com Mon May 29 12:55:15 2017 From: dkgraber85 at yahoo.com (Darin Graber) Date: Mon, 29 May 2017 12:55:15 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <1e2fd9a2-45aa-4044-28e2-bbf578eb4cc0@comcast.net> <1b00e9fa-dde1-99bb-c0c4-9604385a2249@comcast.net> <4BEEDCA28A4E48A98B575A4130FC4B4F@LeonardPCPC> Hello all- Just got done replacing the angle drive on my 100?6. Lifting the back of the tranny tunnel is the way to do it without completely removing it, some of the oil can always get on the carpet so be careful. You cannot get to the angle drive and get any kind of work done from underneath. From the top is the way to go. My speedo stopped as one of the cams that runs the odometer froze up and ended up trashing the angle drive. Took the speedo in the tunnel apart, one new angle drive and a little bit of polishing of the cam later - everything is working. I have also had issues over my lifetime with multiple angle drives shooting craps. Washer is a "have to". Sent from my iPhone 6+ > On May 29, 2017, at 11:16 AM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote: > > > I have had two occasions where the speedo has stopped working. In both cases, it was because the right angle drive at the transmission had come apart and the gear had fallen out. The "cap" is similar to a freeze plug on the engine. Concave shape that you tap to expand it when it is installed. Luckily, all the parts fell onto the "X" member of the frame which is right below it and were recovered even after having driven several miles. As I recall, there is the cap, a special spacer, and the gear. I replaced the innards, and secured the cap by restoring its concave shape and then tapping it tight again. > > Having looked at Bob's link, below, page 2, I believe that I do not have the washer installed that is recommended. I will check this the next time I have the tunnel up or out. I say "up" because you do not need to remove the tunnel cover, just get the back end of it up enough to access the angle drive. Getting to it from underneath may be less time consuming but I have never tried it. > > (The Other) Len > Fairfield, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > 215,543 miles > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, May 29, 2017 6:46 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] cable > > There were some defective cables going around a few years ago but, IIRC, they were a bit too long at the speedo end and damaged the speedo. > > I've never heard of a speedo cable breaking--they usually just kink--but I'm sure it's possible, esp. if it got locked up inside the speedo. Check that the cable hasn't just come loose at the OD end (though not likely as it would be too long to go properly back into the speedo). You can do this by futzing with the inner cable at the speedo until you feel it go into the drive, at which point it should resist turning. You're right, it's odd the cable would come loose at the speedo end. But, the connector is a very fine thread and it would be easy to cross-thread; maybe someone just got frustrated with it and jammed it on? > > My gut feeling is the adapter is broken somehow, but more investigation is warranted. The adapter should have a small copper washer acting as a spacer for the cable; the adapter can fail if this washer is missing: http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/021-511.pdf > > Bob > > >> On 5/28/2017 8:56 PM, Mike S wrote: >> Interestingly, the speedo was working fine, until one day it didn't. No warning. I decided to unhook the connection at the back of the speedo and see if the square end of the cable was rotatable. To my surprise, the entire cable was not even connected to the speedometer. Just hanging loose. Since it takes quite a few turns to screw it on, this seems odd. Connecting it did not solve the problem. Anyway, the cable itself turns quite easily; does this mean the cable itself is broken? If so, I will have to pull each end out separately. It's a real pain to get under the car, as it is an inch off the ground (it seems), and I am more than an inch thick. Working from the top as Bob suggested sounds better. >> Mike >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dkgraber85 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Mon May 29 13:49:55 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Mon, 29 May 2017 12:49:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <20170529072128.GB2D6.16325.root@pamxwww02-z01> <7e8a927c-72a2-e522-4035-9c19a2ff99d8@comcast.net> Yes it makes sense. On 5/29/2017 12:43 PM, Darin Graber wrote: > Mike, > > if the cable is in one piece, and the speedo needle is free to bounce, then it's your angle drive. With my angle drive, when I first pulled it out and I spun the drive end, the cable end also turned...it was only after I stuck something in the cable end did I discover that the drive end still turned and that something inside had sheared. Hope that makes sense. > > Sent from my iPhone 6+ > >> On May 29, 2017, at 1:37 PM, Darin Graber wrote: >> >> No, it won't. >> >> Sent from my iPhone 6+ >> >>> On May 29, 2017, at 11:39 AM, Mike S wrote: >>> >>> Well, the cable is in one piece, and looks ok, still a nice square on both ends. I will pull the right angle drive. Question. If I remove the drive, will all the oil run out? I hope not. >>> >>> Mike >>> >>> >>>> On 5/29/2017 4:21 AM, Tom Felts wrote: >>>> if it turns easily from the top, either the cable is broken---the cable is to short--or the other end of the cable has rounded out---or lastly--the right angle drive is broken. Pull it all out and inspect all pieces. >>>> >>>> tom >>>> ---- Mike S wrote: >>>> >>>> ============= >>>> Interestingly, the speedo was working fine, until one day it didn't. No >>>> warning. I decided to unhook the connection at the back of the speedo >>>> and see if the square end of the cable was rotatable. To my surprise, >>>> the entire cable was not even connected to the speedometer. Just >>>> hanging loose. Since it takes quite a few turns to screw it on, this >>>> seems odd. Connecting it did not solve the problem. Anyway, the cable >>>> itself turns quite easily; does this mean the cable itself is broken? >>>> If so, I will have to pull each end out separately. It's a real pain to >>>> get under the car, as it is an inch off the ground (it seems), and I am >>>> more than an inch thick. Working from the top as Bob suggested sounds >>>> better. >>>> >>>> Mike >>>> >>>> >>>>> On 5/28/2017 7:18 PM, John Spaur wrote: >>>>> Not sure what it takes to get to the back of the speedo but on my BT7 I >>>>> unscrew the cable housing and pull out the cable. A new one can be slipped >>>>> in if the housing is good. >>>>> >>>>> John >>>>> '62 BT7 >>>>> >>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >>>>> England >>>>> Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 5:07 PM >>>>> To: 'Healey List' >>>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] cable >>>>> >>>>> Finally a question I can help with! As a new Healy owner I've been lurking >>>>> on the list for the past few weeks, soaking up the questions and answers as >>>>> best a new Healy owner can. >>>>> >>>>> Answer to your question Mike : from above. Definitely. Take the seats out, >>>>> remove the radio console and transmission tunnel, and all is exposed. Did >>>>> this earlier today on our BJ8 to replace a missing engine/bell housing bolt >>>>> and did not take too long at all. >>>>> >>>>> Bob >>>>> >>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike S >>>>> Sent: May 28, 2017 5:00 PM >>>>> To: Healey List >>>>> Subject: [Healeys] cable >>>>> >>>>> Any hints on replacing the speedometer cable on my BJ8? From above or >>>>> below.....? >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> Mike >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>> -- >>> Mike >>> >>> MGTD (long gone) >>> BN1 (long gone) >>> BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) >>> BJ8 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dkgraber85 at yahoo.com >>> > -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Mon May 29 15:52:03 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Tue, 30 May 2017 09:52:03 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <1e2fd9a2-45aa-4044-28e2-bbf578eb4cc0@comcast.net> <1b00e9fa-dde1-99bb-c0c4-9604385a2249@comcast.net> <4BEEDCA28A4E48A98B575A4130FC4B4F@LeonardPCPC> Does anyone have a pic of this mysterious washer? I have removed multiple angle drives and never found a washer. Never had one fail either. Andy. On 5/30/17, Darin Graber wrote: > Hello all- > > Just got done replacing the angle drive on my 100?6. Lifting the back of the > tranny tunnel is the way to do it without completely removing it, some of > the oil can always get on the carpet so be careful. You cannot get to the > angle drive and get any kind of work done from underneath. From the top is > the way to go. My speedo stopped as one of the cams that runs the odometer > froze up and ended up trashing the angle drive. Took the speedo in the > tunnel apart, one new angle drive and a little bit of polishing of the cam > later - everything is working. I have also had issues over my lifetime with > multiple angle drives shooting craps. Washer is a "have to". > From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Mon May 29 18:22:04 2017 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Mon, 29 May 2017 17:22:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] cable References: <02ef01d2d80f$7a03bca0$6e0b35e0$@ca> <000001d2d821$df6711c0$9e353540$@sbcglobal.net> <000501d2d88b$7f43a8c0$7dcafa40$@sbcglobal.net> This is a follow-up to this thread. The "washer-adaptor to gearbox", #48, Washer 3H 550, in the diagram appears much larger than the threaded and knurled connector that threads onto the transmission. This is probably because it is not necessarily to scale. In a baggie of parts from an old right angle drive, I found a small "washer". It is brass, .642" OD (about 5/8 to 41/64 inch), .388" (about 3/8 to 25/64 inch) ID, and .025 " (about 1/64 to 1/32 inch) thick. It has four notches around the outside edge. It drops nicely into the brass connector. If this was a substitute solution to the problem, was it adequate? On that old drive, the square piece that is attached to the gear and goes into the transmission is broken off. That appears to be the failures that were occurring. Maybe that brass washer wasn't thick enough. In looking back at old e-mails (2009)., I find that there were comments about putting a washer in the connection at the speedometer to relieve any tension due to the cable being too long which appeared to be a problem at the time. (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 Still 215,543 miles -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pensenwood at aol.com Mon May 29 20:40:04 2017 From: pensenwood at aol.com (pensenwood at aol.com) Date: Mon, 29 May 2017 22:40:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fan belt size For a 44" long/ 3/8" wide belt, the following might work: Original part # AEC 932, 18H 760 Moss 834-050 ( Flennor ) Unipart GCB 11125 Dayco 15440, 10A 1125C NAPA PBH 15440, Gates 7440, 6225 MC Flennor A 5114 Goodyear 10AV 1125 Grainger 11A 1120 Sent from my iPad From s.hutchings at rogers.com Tue May 30 08:14:30 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Tue, 30 May 2017 14:14:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] trying again References: <635826171.2525905.1496153670746.ref@mail.yahoo.com> This is another test- haven't been able to get on to the list, or it's associated email addresses for ages.Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyron at yahoo.com Tue May 30 09:33:35 2017 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Tue, 30 May 2017 15:33:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] trying again References: <635826171.2525905.1496153670746.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <635826171.2525905.1496153670746@mail.yahoo.com> Looks like you made it this time. Ron MitchellBN6, ?AN9 On Tuesday, May 30, 2017, 10:25:55 AM EDT, Stephen Hutchings wrote:This is another test- haven't been able to get on to the list, or it's associated email addresses for ages.Stephen, BJ8_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 30 13:19:54 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 30 May 2017 19:19:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] trying again References: <635826171.2525905.1496153670746.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <635826171.2525905.1496153670746@mail.yahoo.com> Success!? I was knocked off the list for a while too.? I could receive emails, just not post any.? All seems normal now.? Nothing I did.? Weird.Mike MacLean On Tuesday, May 30, 2017 7:44 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: This is another test- haven't been able to get on to the list, or it's associated email addresses for ages.Stephen, BJ8_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From neilandcustom at gmail.com Tue May 30 15:40:01 2017 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil L. Anderson) Date: Tue, 30 May 2017 16:40:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] trying again Your test message showed up. The list has been quiet. On May 30, 2017, at 9:39 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: This is another test- haven't been able to get on to the list, or it's associated email addresses for ages. Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Tue May 30 18:05:40 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (s.hutchings at rogers.com) Date: Tue, 30 May 2017 20:05:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Success! Thanks to all of you for your replies...seems I'm back on the list! I have decided to join the British car forum, but after all this time, I didn't want to give up on the list. Stephen, BJ8 Sent from my iPad From manifold at telus.net Tue May 30 19:30:07 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Tue, 30 May 2017 18:30:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] trying again References: <635826171.2525905.1496153670746.ref@mail.yahoo.com> FiQYdMw62OOK6FiQZd4kkg You are on my list _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2017 7:15 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] trying again This is another test- haven't been able to get on to the list, or it's associated email addresses for ages. Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Tue May 30 20:54:28 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Tue, 30 May 2017 19:54:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Mystery valve cover I might have inquired about this valve cover in the past, but last weekend I took it with me to the UBSCC British car show and held it next to many 4 cylinder engines with no luck. Any other suggestions?Thanks,Ken Freese65 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: mystery valve cover.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 194436 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: mystery valve cover dimensions.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 97211 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 31 02:16:20 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 31 May 2017 10:16:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Mystery valve cover References: <1624118838.1055645.1496199268623.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> Fiat 600/750/850? Kees Oudesluijs Op 31-5-2017 om 4:54 schreef goldengt at cal.net: > I might have inquired about this valve cover in the past, but last > weekend I took it with me to the UBSCC British car show and held it > next to many 4 cylinder engines with no luck. Any other suggestions? > Thanks, > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Wed May 31 10:05:09 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Wed, 31 May 2017 16:05:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Static timing References: <1102348556.3436797.1496246709928.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I remember someone saying that the Haynes manual had some poor or inaccurate instructions within its covers.Recently I found some strange instructions for setting up the static timing on the Healey 6 cylinder.They seem to be telling you to set the timing with a test light at TDC, without any advance...find TDC, turn the distributor until number one is firing, wiggle so that the play allows your test lamp to go on and off, and tighten.The BMC shop manual says to find TDC, and then "The crankshaft should be rotated backwards to obtain its correct position ..." presumably to the correct degree of advance- not too precise but the advance is acknowledged at least. I seem to remember that the measurement is about 5/8", and that's what I've used in the past.My rebuilt distributor came with the instructions of 10-14 degrees at idle without vacuum...would that be about 5/8", or slightly less, do you think? Thanks, Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed May 31 11:35:09 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 31 May 2017 13:35:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Static timing References: <1102348556.3436797.1496246709928.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1102348556.3436797.1496246709928@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Stephen, Yes very confusing.... I use 5/8" - 3/4". For what it is worth here is the procedure that I have found easiest and most accurate. *Turn the engine so that the rotor is coming up to the #1 or #6 cap terminal.* *Ignition off and connect a test light between the live starter solenoid terminal and the distributor low tension connector. The light should come on when connected.* *Engage 4th gear and gently "nudge" the car forward until the light goes off. (Points open)* *At that point the timing mark on the pulley should be 5/8" - 3/4" before TDC. i.e. to the right of the pointer when looking forward.* *If it isn't adjust the distributor position and repeat the above procedure. * Just rotating the distributor with the crank positioned on the timing mark just doesn't seem to produce accurate results in my experience I suspect because of backlash in the distributor drive. Michael S On Wed, May 31, 2017 at 12:05 PM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > I remember someone saying that the Haynes manual had some poor or > inaccurate instructions within its covers. > Recently I found some strange instructions for setting up the static > timing on the Healey 6 cylinder. > They seem to be telling you to set the timing with a test light at TDC, > without any advance...find TDC, turn the distributor until number one is > firing, wiggle so that the play allows your test lamp to go on and off, and > tighten. > The BMC shop manual says to find TDC, and then "The crankshaft should be > rotated backwards to obtain its correct position ..." presumably to the > correct degree of advance- not too precise but the advance is acknowledged > at least. > > I seem to remember that the measurement is about 5/8", and that's what > I've used in the past. > My rebuilt distributor came with the instructions of 10-14 degrees at idle > without vacuum...would that be about 5/8", or slightly less, do you think? > > Thanks, Stephen, BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyron at yahoo.com Wed May 31 12:33:24 2017 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Wed, 31 May 2017 18:33:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] trying again References: <635826171.2525905.1496153670746.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Well you did Know!!!!! Ron MitchellBN6, AN9From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2017 7:15 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] trying again This is another test- haven't been able to get on to the list, or it's associated email addresses for ages.Stephen, BJ8_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Wed May 31 20:45:07 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2017 02:45:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap wiring References: <1015004820.198240.1496285107742.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I've come to realize that my cap was rotated and re-wired in the dim past for some reason.That is to say, all the cylinders fire in the correct order, and when they should, but it's not in its original orientation.I would like to return it to the correct position, and re-wire the cap.It seems to me that the cap should have been wired as in the attached diagram...can someone confirm this for me please?Thanks,Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Distributor cap.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 87133 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed May 31 23:46:30 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 31 May 2017 22:46:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap wiring References: <1015004820.198240.1496285107742.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1015004820.198240.1496285107742@mail.yahoo.com> Stephen, The correct firing order for a BT7 is 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, and 4. We share the same engine so I doubt it would be different for the BJ8?s and BJ7?s. John Spaur ?62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2017 7:45 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap wiring I've come to realize that my cap was rotated and re-wired in the dim past for some reason. That is to say, all the cylinders fire in the correct order, and when they should, but it's not in its original orientation. I would like to return it to the correct position, and re-wire the cap. It seems to me that the cap should have been wired as in the attached diagram...can someone confirm this for me please? Thanks, Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: