Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil seeping from distributor tower

From: "Peter & Veronica" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2016 07:26:16 +1000

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G=E2=80=99day Simon

When I've had that problem with carb banjos, first I've faced either =
side of the banjo on fine wet & dry on a sheet of glass. I have tried =
annealing copper washers with a small propane torch, but it's easy to =
end up with a blob of copper! When all else fails, I use blue Hylomar =
sealant.

Cheers

Peter

From: Simon Lachlan=20
Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 11:56 PM
To: 'Healey List'=20
Subject: [Healeys] Oil seeping from distributor tower

3000 MkII BT7......=20

I=E2=80=99ve been tidying up the engine compartment recently. Tightening =
up bolts, replacing gaskets.......trying to cure the leaks and oozes so =
familiar in  these cars.

I=E2=80=99ve made progress, but one area is defeating me so far. =
It=E2=80=99s the banjo where the bolt holds the oil feed pipe to the =
distributor tower. I guess that rules out all you non-mechanical drive =
tacho guys???

Anyhow, I took the bolt out and found a copper washer on either side of =
the union. Much as I=E2=80=99d expected. These washers looked pretty =
tired so I replaced them. Made no difference. I could get another half =
turn once the engine had warmed up, but it still seeped. Not much but =
enough to annoy, once I=E2=80=99d spent time, thought and energy on the =
issue.

So, I found a pair of red fibre washers. Good fit. I warmed them up in =
some 3-in-1 oil and used them in place of the copper. No good either. (I =
may get another half turn once the engine=E2=80=99s been warmed up =
again).

All the surfaces are nice and flat and there are no cracks anywhere.

Any suggestions would be most welcome.

Simon

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<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>G=E2=80=99day Simon</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>When I've had that problem with carb banjos, first I've faced =
either side=20
of the banjo on fine wet &amp; dry on a sheet of glass. I have tried =
annealing=20
copper washers with a small propane torch, but it's easy to end up with =
a blob=20
of copper! When all else fails, I use blue Hylomar sealant.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Cheers</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Peter</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Simon Lachlan</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Monday, April 4, 2016 11:56 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">'Healey List'</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Healeys] Oil seeping from distributor=20
tower</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV class=3DWordSection1>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>3000 MkII BT7...... <o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>I=E2=80=99ve been tidying up the engine compartment =
recently.=20
Tightening up bolts, replacing gaskets.......trying to cure the leaks =
and oozes=20
so familiar in&nbsp; these cars.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>I=E2=80=99ve made progress, but one area is =
defeating me so far. It=E2=80=99s=20
the banjo where the bolt holds the oil feed pipe to the distributor =
tower. I=20
guess that rules out all you non-mechanical drive tacho =
guys???<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Anyhow, I took the bolt out and found a copper =
washer on=20
either side of the union. Much as I=E2=80=99d expected. These washers =
looked pretty=20
tired so I replaced them. Made no difference. I could get another half =
turn once=20
the engine had warmed up, but it still seeped. Not much but enough to =
annoy,=20
once I=E2=80=99d spent time, thought and energy on the =
issue.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>So, I found a pair of red fibre washers. Good fit. =
I warmed=20
them up in some 3-in-1 oil and used them in place of the copper. No good =
either.=20
(I may get another half turn once the engine=E2=80=99s been warmed up=20
again).<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>All the surfaces are nice and flat and there are no =
cracks=20
anywhere.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Any suggestions would be most =
welcome.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Simon<o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<P>
<HR>
_______________________________________________<BR>Support Team.Net=20
$12.75<BR>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<BR>Forums:=20
http://www.team.net/forums<BR><BR>[email-masked]<BR>http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<BR><BR>Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
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---

From: Chris Dimmock <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2016 21:25:15 +1000

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Hey guys.=20
2 quick suggestions.=20
1. The best way to find an oil leak.=20
Degrease engine, hose off with water. Kiss your wife, as she heads off to th=
e shops. Wave, smile.=20
Start engine to warm it up. Duck up inside, grab her hairdryer and talcum po=
wder*.=20
Use hairdryer to ensure suspect leak area is dry. Apply talcum powder. Apply=
 liberally, shaking from highest point. Restart engine and wipe fingerprints=
 off hairdryer and talc.=20
Run until hot.=20
Have a beer, then inspect the leak suspect area. Follow the oiled talc to th=
e highest point on the engine. You'll be surprised how talc shows so many le=
aks are actually e.g. Rocker cover gasket, rather than side plate gasket.=20=

*If you're single, you can just use flour. Your Mum will have some.=20
2. Anneal copper washers.=20
Here's a good explanation:
http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference/annealling-copper-aluminium-washers
Best
Chris
Sent from my iPhone

> On 5 Apr 2016, at 7:26 AM, Peter & Veronica <[email-masked]> wrot=
e:
>=20
> G=E2=80=99day Simon
> =20
> When I've had that problem with carb banjos, first I've faced either side o=
f the banjo on fine wet & dry on a sheet of glass. I have tried annealing co=
pper washers with a small propane torch, but it's easy to end up with a blob=
 of copper! When all else fails, I use blue Hylomar sealant.
> =20
> =20
> =20
> From: Simon Lachlan
> To: 'Healey List'

>  .....It=E2=80=99s the banjo where the bolt holds the oil feed pipe to the=
 distributor tower. I guess that rules out all you non-mechanical drive tach=
o guys???
> Anyhow, I took the bolt out and found a copper washer on either side of th=
e union. Much as I=E2=80=99d expected. These washers looked pretty tired so I=
 replaced them. Made no difference. I could get another half turn once the e=
ngine had warmed up, but it still seeped......

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>Hey guys.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleM=
ailSignature">2 quick suggestions.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"=
>1. The best way to find an oil leak.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignatu=
re">Degrease engine, hose off with water. Kiss your wife, as she heads off t=
o the shops. Wave, smile.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Start en=
gine to warm it up. Duck up inside, grab her hairdryer and talcum powder*.&n=
bsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Use hairdryer to ensure suspect lea=
k area is dry. Apply talcum powder. Apply liberally, shaking from highest po=
int. Restart engine and wipe fingerprints off hairdryer and talc.&nbsp;</div=
><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Run until hot.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMa=
ilSignature">Have a beer, then inspect the leak suspect area. Follow the oil=
ed talc to the highest point on the engine. You'll be surprised how talc sho=
ws so many leaks are actually e.g. Rocker cover gasket, rather than side pla=
te gasket.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">*If you're single, you c=
an just use flour. Your Mum will have some.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailS=
ignature">2. Anneal copper washers.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature=
">Here's a good explanation:</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><a href=3D"=
http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference/annealling-copper-aluminium-washers">h=
ttp://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference/annealling-copper-aluminium-washers</a>=
</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Best</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature=
">Chris<br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On 5 Apr 2016, at 7:26 AM, Pete=
r &amp; Veronica &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">greylinn@oze=
mail.com.au</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite">
<meta content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii" http-equiv=3D"Content-Type">=

<meta name=3D"Generator" content=3D"Microsoft Word 12 (filtered medium)">
<style><!--
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@font-face
--></style>

<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<div>G=E2=80=99day Simon</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>When I've had that problem with carb banjos, first I've faced either si=
de=20
of the banjo on fine wet &amp; dry on a sheet of glass. I have tried anneali=
ng=20
copper washers with a small propane torch, but it's easy to end up with a bl=
ob=20
of copper! When all else fails, I use blue Hylomar sealant.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Cheers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Peter</div>
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: &quot;Ca=
libri&quot;; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLA=
Y: inline">
<div style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<div style=3D"font-color: black"><b>From:</b> <a title=3D"simon.lachlan@home=
call.co.uk" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Simon Lachlan</a> <=
/div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Monday, April 4, 2016 11:56 PM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title=3D"[email-masked]" href=3D"mailto:healeys@a=
utox.team.net">'Healey List'</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Oil seeping from distributor=20
tower</div></div></div>
</div></div></div></blockquote><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr=
"><div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000"><di=
v style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: &quot;Calib=
ri&quot;; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLAY: i=
nline"><div>&nbsp;.....<span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font=
-size: 11pt;">It=E2=80=99s=20
the banjo where the bolt holds the oil feed pipe to the distributor tower. I=
=20
guess that rules out all you non-mechanical drive tacho guys???</span></div>=
</div><div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: &q=
uot;Calibri&quot;; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; D=
ISPLAY: inline"><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p></o:=
p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Anyhow, I took the bolt out and found a copper washer=
 on=20
either side of the union. Much as I=E2=80=99d expected. These washers looked=
 pretty=20
tired so I replaced them. Made no difference. I could get another half turn o=
nce=20
the engine had warmed up, but it still seeped......</p></div></div></div></d=
iv></blockquote></body></html>=

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[email-masked]

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From: i erbs <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2016 18:39:27 -0400

--===============3190467395957123144==

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sexism aside, you can just use a heat gun. They are cheap and have black
handles. helpful for getting your rag top (hood) or tonneaue cover on when
its cold. I have been heat shrinking tube on my new wire harness with it to=
o

<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_c=
ampaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Dwebmail&utm_term=3Doa-2115-v2-a>
This
email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
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<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes

On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 7:25 AM, Chris Dimmock <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> Hey guys.
> 2 quick suggestions.
> 1. The best way to find an oil leak.
> Degrease engine, hose off with water. Kiss your wife, as she heads off to
> the shops. Wave, smile.
> Start engine to warm it up. Duck up inside, grab her hairdryer and talcum
> powder*.
> Use hairdryer to ensure suspect leak area is dry. Apply talcum powder.
> Apply liberally, shaking from highest point. Restart engine and wipe
> fingerprints off hairdryer and talc.
> Run until hot.
> Have a beer, then inspect the leak suspect area. Follow the oiled talc to
> the highest point on the engine. You'll be surprised how talc shows so ma=
ny
> leaks are actually e.g. Rocker cover gasket, rather than side plate gaske=
t.
> *If you're single, you can just use flour. Your Mum will have some.
> 2. Anneal copper washers.
> On 5 Apr 2016, at 7:26 AM, Peter & Veronica <[email-masked]>
> wrote:
>
> G=E2=80=99day Simon
>
> When I've had that problem with carb banjos, first I've faced either side
> of the banjo on fine wet & dry on a sheet of glass. I have tried annealin=
g
> copper washers with a small propane torch, but it's easy to end up with a
> blob of copper! When all else fails, I use blue Hylomar sealant.
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter
>
> *From:* Simon Lachlan <[email-masked]>
> *Sent:* Monday, April 4, 2016 11:56 PM
> *To:* 'Healey List' <[email-masked]>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Oil seeping from distributor tower
>
>
>  .....It=E2=80=99s the banjo where the bolt holds the oil feed pipe to th=
e
> distributor tower. I guess that rules out all you non-mechanical drive
> tacho guys???
>
> Anyhow, I took the bolt out and found a copper washer on either side of
> the union. Much as I=E2=80=99d expected. These washers looked pretty tire=
d so I
> replaced them. Made no difference. I could get another half turn once the
> engine had warmed up, but it still seeped......
>
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> [email-masked]
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">sexism aside, you can just use a heat gun. They are cheap =
and have black handles. helpful for getting your rag top (hood) or tonneaue=
 cover on when its cold. I have been heat shrinking tube on my new wire har=
ness with it too</div><div id=3D"DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>
<table style=3D"border-top:1px solid #aaabb6">
	<tr>
      <td style=3D"width:55px;padding-top:18px"><a href=3D"https://www.avas=
t.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&amp;utm_source=3Dlink&amp;utm_campaign=
=3Dsig-email&amp;utm_content=3Dwebmail&amp;utm_term=3Doa-2115-v2-a" target=
=3D"_blank"><img src=3D"https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/2016/icons/icon-env=
elope-tick-round-orange-v1.png"></a></td>
		<td style=3D"width:470px;padding-top:20px;color:#41424e;font-size:13px;fo=
nt-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;line-height:18px">This email has been =
sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. <a href=3D"https://www.=
avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&amp;utm_source=3Dlink&amp;utm_campai=
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</table><a href=3D"#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width=3D"1" heigh=
t=3D"1"></a></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br clear=3D"all"><div><div cl=
ass=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"=
ltr">Ira Erbs<div>Portland,OR</div><div><span style=3D"font-family:&#39;Tim=
es New Roman&#39;,serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 _______ =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0_______</span><br style=3D"font-family:&#39;Times N=
ew Roman&#39;,serif"><span style=3D"font-family:&#39;Times New Roman&#39;,s=
erif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)</span><br sty=
le=3D"font-family:&#39;Times New Roman&#39;,serif"><span style=3D"font-fami=
ly:&#39;Times New Roman&#39;,serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 (____=
_____________________)</span></div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
BT7 engine and disk brakes</div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
<br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 7:25 AM, Chris Dimmoc=
k <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote cl=
ass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;p=
adding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><div>Hey guys.=C2=A0</div><div>2 quick s=
uggestions.=C2=A0</div><div>1. The best way to find an oil leak.=C2=A0</div=
><div>Degrease engine, hose off with water. Kiss your wife, as she heads of=
f to the shops. Wave, smile.=C2=A0</div><div>Start engine to warm it up. Du=
ck up inside, grab her hairdryer and talcum powder*.=C2=A0</div><div>Use ha=
irdryer to ensure suspect leak area is dry. Apply talcum powder. Apply libe=
rally, shaking from highest point. Restart engine and wipe fingerprints off=
 hairdryer and talc.=C2=A0</div><div>Run until hot.=C2=A0</div><div>Have a =
beer, then inspect the leak suspect area. Follow the oiled talc to the high=
est point on the engine. You&#39;ll be surprised how talc shows so many lea=
ks are actually e.g. Rocker cover gasket, rather than side plate gasket.=C2=
=A0</div><div>*If you&#39;re single, you can just use flour. Your Mum will =
have some.=C2=A0</div><div>2. Anneal copper washers.=C2=A0</div><div>Here&#=
39;s a good explanation:</div><div><a href=3D"http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/r=
eference/annealling-copper-aluminium-washers" target=3D"_blank">http://www.=
motorcycle.co.uk/reference/annealling-copper-aluminium-washers</a></div><di=
v>Best</div><div>Chris<br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On 5 Apr 2016, =
at 7:26 AM, Peter &amp; Veronica &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
.au" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div>=
<blockquote type=3D"cite">

<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:&#39;Calibri&#39;;COLOR:#000000">
<div>G=E2=80=99day Simon</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>When I&#39;ve had that problem with carb banjos, first I&#39;ve faced =
either side=20
of the banjo on fine wet &amp; dry on a sheet of glass. I have tried anneal=
ing=20
copper washers with a small propane torch, but it&#39;s easy to end up with=
 a blob=20
of copper! When all else fails, I use blue Hylomar sealant.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>Cheers</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>Peter</div>
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:&quot;Calibr=
i&quot;;FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline">
<div style=3D"FONT:10pt tahoma">
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"BACKGROUND:#f5f5f5">
<div><b>From:</b> <a title=3D"[email-masked]" href=3D"mailto:=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">Simon Lachlan</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Monday, April 4, 2016 11:56 PM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title=3D"[email-masked]" href=3D"mailto:healeys@=
autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">&#39;Healey List&#39;</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Oil seeping from distributor=20
tower</div></div></div>
</div></div></div></blockquote><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"lt=
r"><div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:&#39;Calibri&#39;;COLOR:#000000=
"><div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:&quot;Cali=
bri&quot;;FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline=
"><div>=C2=A0.....<span style=3D"font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:1=
1pt">It=E2=80=99s=20
the banjo where the bolt holds the oil feed pipe to the distributor tower. =
I=20
guess that rules out all you non-mechanical drive tacho guys???</span></div=
></div><div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:&quot=
;Calibri&quot;;FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:i=
nline"><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u><u></u></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Anyhow, I took the bolt out and found a copper washe=
r on=20
either side of the union. Much as I=E2=80=99d expected. These washers looke=
d pretty=20
tired so I replaced them. Made no difference. I could get another half turn=
 once=20
the engine had warmed up, but it still seeped......</p></div></div></div></=
div></blockquote></div><br>_______________________________________________<=
br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Chris Dimmock <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2016 00:28:19 +1000

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	charset=utf-8
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Hey Ira.=20
If you've got to go upstairs to the ensuite to get your wife's talcum powder=
, you might as well grab her hairdryer as well....
;-)
And I wasn't being sexist. It's just that I don't own a hairdryer or talcum p=
owder.
But, if it's more politically correct, please feel free to use your boyfrien=
d's talcum powder/ hairdryer/ heat gun.=20
Just joking. My writing style is best described as "attempted humor". Someti=
mes the story itself gets distracted in my mind by my joke. I was channeling=
 my late great mate Charlie Britten when I wrote this. And we thought it was=
 hysterical!!=20
=20
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 6 Apr 2016, at 8:39 AM, i erbs <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> sexism aside, you can just use a heat gun. They are cheap and have black h=
andles. helpful for getting your rag top (hood) or tonneaue cover on when it=
s cold. I have been heat shrinking tube on my new wire harness with it too
>=20
> 	This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Av=
ast. www.avast.com
>> On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 7:25 AM, Chris Dimmock <[email-masked]> w=
rote:
>> Degrease engine, hose off with water. Kiss your wife, as she heads off to=
 the shops. Wave, smile.=20
>> Start engine to warm it up. Duck up inside, grab her hairdryer and talcum=
 powder*.=20
>> Use hairdryer to ensure suspect leak area is dry. Apply talcum powder. Ap=
ply liberally, shaking from highest point. Restart engine and wipe fingerpri=
nts off hairdryer and talc.=20
>> Run until hot.=20
>> Have a beer, then inspect the leak suspect area. Follow the oiled talc to=
 the highest point on the engine. You'll be surprised how talc shows so many=
 leaks are actually e.g. Rocker cover gasket, rather than side plate gasket.=
=20
>> http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference/annealling-copper-aluminium-washers=

>> Best
>> Chris
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>=20
>>> On 5 Apr 2016, at 7:26 AM, Peter & Veronica <[email-masked]> wr=
ote:
>>>=20
>>> G=E2=80=99day Simon
>>> =20
>>> When I've had that problem with carb banjos, first I've faced either sid=
e of the banjo on fine wet & dry on a sheet of glass. I have tried annealing=
 copper washers with a small propane torch, but it's easy to end up with a b=
lob of copper! When all else fails, I use blue Hylomar sealant.
>>>  .....It=E2=80=99s the banjo where the bolt holds the oil feed pipe to t=
he distributor tower. I guess that rules out all you non-mechanical drive ta=
cho guys???
>>>=20
>>> Anyhow, I took the bolt out and found a copper washer on either side of t=
he union. Much as I=E2=80=99d expected. These washers looked pretty tired so=
 I replaced them. Made no difference. I could get another half turn once the=
 engine had warmed up, but it still seeped......
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera30=
[email-masked]

--Apple-Mail-2237BDC8-2775-424A-BE77-4DE326E761BF
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>Hey Ira.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMa=
ilSignature">If you've got to go upstairs to the ensuite to get your wife's t=
alcum powder, you might as well grab her hairdryer as well....</div><div id=3D=
"AppleMailSignature">;-)</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">And I wasn't be=
ing sexist. It's just that I don't own a hairdryer or talcum powder.</div><d=
iv id=3D"AppleMailSignature">But, if it's more politically correct, please f=
eel free to use your boyfriend's talcum powder/ hairdryer/ heat gun.&nbsp;</=
div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Just joking. My writing style is best des=
cribed as "attempted humor". Sometimes the story itself gets distracted in m=
y mind by my joke. I was channeling my late great mate Charlie Britten when I=
 wrote this. And we thought it was hysterical!!&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleM=
ailSignature">&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Best</div><div id=3D=
"AppleMailSignature">Chris</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><br><br>Sent f=
rom my iPhone</div><div><br>On 6 Apr 2016, at 8:39 AM, i erbs &lt;<a href=3D=
"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div=
><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><div dir=3D"ltr">sexism aside, you can just u=
se a heat gun. They are cheap and have black handles. helpful for getting yo=
ur rag top (hood) or tonneaue cover on when its cold. I have been heat shrin=
king tube on my new wire harness with it too</div><div id=3D"DDB4FAA8-2DD7-4=
0BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>
<table style=3D"border-top:1px solid #aaabb6">
	<tbody><tr>
      <td style=3D"width:55px;padding-top:18px"><a href=3D"https://www.avast=
.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&amp;utm_source=3Dlink&amp;utm_campaign=3Ds=
ig-email&amp;utm_content=3Dwebmail&amp;utm_term=3Doa-2115-v2-a" target=3D"_b=
lank"><img src=3D"https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/2016/icons/icon-envelope-t=
ick-round-orange-v1.png"></a></td>
		<td style=3D"width:470px;padding-top:20px;color:#41424e;fon=
t-size:13px;font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;line-height:18px">This em=
ail has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. <a href=3D"=
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&amp;utm_source=3Dlink&amp=
;utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&amp;utm_content=3Dwebmail&amp;utm_term=3Doa-2115-v=
2-a" target=3D"_blank" style=3D"color:#4453ea">www.avast.com</a>
		</td>
	</tr>
</tbody></table><a href=3D"#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width=3D"1=
" height=3D"1"></a></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br clear=3D"all"><div><=
div class=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div di=
r=3D"ltr">Ira Erbs<div>Portland,OR</div><div><span style=3D"font-family:'Tim=
es New Roman',serif">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; _______ &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp=
; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbs=
p; &nbsp; &nbsp;_______</span><br style=3D"font-family:'Times New Roman',ser=
if"><span style=3D"font-family:'Times New Roman',serif">&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; (=
______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)</span><br style=3D"font-family:'Times New=
 Roman',serif"><span style=3D"font-family:'Times New Roman',serif">&nbsp; &n=
bsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; (_________________________)</span></div><div>&nbsp;=
 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; BT7 engine and disk brakes</div></div></div></d=
iv></div></div></div>
<br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 7:25 AM, Chris Dimmock=
 <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"=
_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D=
"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-=
left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><div>Hey guys.&nbsp;</div><div>2 quick suggestio=
ns.&nbsp;</div><div>1. The best way to find an oil leak.&nbsp;</div><div>Deg=
rease engine, hose off with water. Kiss your wife, as she heads off to the s=
hops. Wave, smile.&nbsp;</div><div>Start engine to warm it up. Duck up insid=
e, grab her hairdryer and talcum powder*.&nbsp;</div><div>Use hairdryer to e=
nsure suspect leak area is dry. Apply talcum powder. Apply liberally, shakin=
g from highest point. Restart engine and wipe fingerprints off hairdryer and=
 talc.&nbsp;</div><div>Run until hot.&nbsp;</div><div>Have a beer, then insp=
ect the leak suspect area. Follow the oiled talc to the highest point on the=
 engine. You'll be surprised how talc shows so many leaks are actually e.g. R=
ocker cover gasket, rather than side plate gasket.&nbsp;</div><div>*If you'r=
e single, you can just use flour. Your Mum will have some.&nbsp;</div><div>2=
. Anneal copper washers.&nbsp;</div><div>Here's a good explanation:</div><di=
v><a href=3D"http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference/annealling-copper-alumini=
um-washers" target=3D"_blank">http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference/annealli=
ng-copper-aluminium-washers</a></div><div>Best</div><div>Chris<br>Sent from m=
y iPhone</div><div><br>On 5 Apr 2016, at 7:26 AM, Peter &amp; Veronica &lt;<=
a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">greylinn@ozemail=
.com.au</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite">

<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Calibri';COLOR:#000000">
<div>G=E2=80=99day Simon</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>When I've had that problem with carb banjos, first I've faced either si=
de=20
of the banjo on fine wet &amp; dry on a sheet of glass. I have tried anneali=
ng=20
copper washers with a small propane torch, but it's easy to end up with a bl=
ob=20
of copper! When all else fails, I use blue Hylomar sealant.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Cheers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Peter</div>
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:&quot;Calibri=
&quot;;FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline">
<div style=3D"FONT:10pt tahoma">
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"BACKGROUND:#f5f5f5">
<div><b>From:</b> <a title=3D"[email-masked]" href=3D"mailto:s=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">Simon Lachlan</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Monday, April 4, 2016 11:56 PM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title=3D"[email-masked]" href=3D"mailto:healeys@a=
utox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">'Healey List'</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Oil seeping from distributor=20
tower</div></div></div>
</div></div></div></blockquote><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr=
"><div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Calibri';COLOR:#000000"><div sty=
le=3D"FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:&quot;Calibri&quot;;FO=
NT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline"><div>&nbsp;=
.....<span style=3D"font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt">It=E2=80=99=
s=20
the banjo where the bolt holds the oil feed pipe to the distributor tower. I=
=20
guess that rules out all you non-mechanical drive tacho guys???</span></div>=
</div><div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-FAMILY:&quot;C=
alibri&quot;;FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inli=
ne"><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u><u></u></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Anyhow, I took the bolt out and found a copper washer=
 on=20
either side of the union. Much as I=E2=80=99d expected. These washers looked=
 pretty=20
tired so I replaced them. Made no difference. I could get another half turn o=
nce=20
the engine had warmed up, but it still seeped......</p></div></div></div></d=
iv></blockquote></div><br>_______________________________________________<br=
Support <a href=3D"http://team.net">Team.Net</a> <a href=3D"http://www.team.=
net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/do=
nate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"=
_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer=
" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team=
.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>
</div></blockquote></body></html>=

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