Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Kickout Relay

From: "Charlie Schott" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 17:41:28 -0600

A club member and I have a BN7 and a BT7, respectively, that have the OD 
kickout relay wired according to the wiring diagram in the AH service 
manual. However, it does not kick out the OD when the accelerator pedal is 
put to the floor, although we've confirmed that the relay is okay. My 
thinking is that the relay should be wired in series, whereas the diagram 
doesn't show that it is. What am I missing here? Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie Schott
Panama City Beach

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From: Price Lindsay <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 19:45:37 -0500

How about the dash board switch, the switch on the transmission or the solenoid? I presume you have the transmission engaged in third or fourth gear??

Price Lindsay

630-841-6300 Cell

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 4, 2016, at 6:41 PM, Charlie Schott <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> A club member and I have a BN7 and a BT7, respectively, that have the OD kickout relay wired according to the wiring diagram in the AH service manual. However, it does not kick out the OD when the accelerator pedal is put to the floor, although we've confirmed that the relay is okay. My thinking is that the relay should be wired in series, whereas the diagram doesn't show that it is. What am I missing here? Thanks.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Charlie Schott
> Panama City Beach
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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---

From: Per Schoerner <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 01:47:47 +0100

Charlie
What you have is one relay and one switch. Standing in front of the car 
the right box is the relay and the left box is the switch. The purpose 
of the switch is to keep the relay energised until you accelerate a bit, 
then it should brake the circuit. That is when you have switched the 
overdrive dash switch off of course.
Perhaps your switch is faulty, or just misadjusted. Disconnect the 
cables from it and test it with an ohm meter. When correctly adjusted it 
should brake the circuit when the accelerator pedal is pushed 20% IIRC.

Per

Den 2016-02-05 kl. 00:41, skrev Charlie Schott:
> manual. However, it does not kick out the OD when the accelerator pedal
> is put to the floor, although we've confirmed that the relay is okay. My
> thinking is that the relay should be wired in series, whereas the
> diagram doesn't show that it is. What am I missing here? Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
> Panama City Beach
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

[email-masked]

---

From: Michael <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 11:51:42 +1100

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Hi Charlie,
The switch that the throttle is connected to provides a "hold" circuit for =
the overdrive relay essentially paralleling the dash switch.
For it to function as designed the switch is"closed" at low throttle settin=
gs and opens as the throttle is opened thus interrupting the "hold" circuit=
 de-energizing the solenoid.
The throttle switch therefore must be parallel the dash switch.
Michael S
BN1 #174
>From Cabarita Beach N.S.W.

-----Original Message-----
From: "Charlie Schott" <[email-masked]>
Sent: =E2=80=8E5/=E2=80=8E02/=E2=80=8E2016 10:41 a.m.
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <[email-masked]>; "[email-masked]" <he=
[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Kickout Relay

A club member and I have a BN7 and a BT7, respectively, that have the OD=20
kickout relay wired according to the wiring diagram in the AH service=20
manual. However, it does not kick out the OD when the accelerator pedal is=
=20
put to the floor, although we've confirmed that the relay is okay. My=20
thinking is that the relay should be wired in series, whereas the diagram=20
doesn't show that it is. What am I missing here? Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie Schott
Panama City Beach

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]=20

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=
=3Dutf-8"></head><body><div><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; =
font-size: 11pt;">Hi Charlie,<br>The switch that the throttle is connected =
to provides a "hold" circuit for the overdrive relay essentially parallelin=
g the dash switch.<br>For it to function as designed the switch is"closed" =
at low throttle settings and opens as the throttle is opened thus interrupt=
ing the "hold" circuit de-energizing the solenoid.<br>The throttle switch t=
herefore must be parallel the dash switch.<br>Michael S<br>BN1 #174<br>From=
 Cabarita Beach N.S.W.<br><br></div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><hr><span style=
=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">F=
rom: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt=
;"><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Charlie Schott</a></span><br><spa=
n style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: b=
old;">Sent: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-siz=
e: 11pt;">=E2=80=8E5/=E2=80=8E02/=E2=80=8E2016 10:41 a.m.</span><br><span s=
tyle=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold=
;">To: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11=
pt;"><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Steve B. Gerow</a>; <a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></span><br><sp=
an style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: =
bold;">Subject: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font=
-size: 11pt;">Re: [Healeys] OD Kickout Relay</span><br><br></div>A club mem=
ber and I have a BN7 and a BT7, respectively, that have the OD <br>kickout =
relay wired according to the wiring diagram in the AH service <br>manual. H=
owever, it does not kick out the OD when the accelerator pedal is <br>put t=
o the floor, although we've confirmed that the relay is okay. My <br>thinki=
ng is that the relay should be wired in series, whereas the diagram <br>doe=
sn't show that it is. What am I missing here? Thanks.<br><br>Regards,<br><b=
r>Charlie Schott<br>Panama City Beach<br><br><br><br><br><br><br>__________=
_____________________________________<br>Support Team.Net http://www.team.n=
et/donate.html<br>Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br>Archive: http:/=
/www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br><br>Healeys@=
autox.team.net<br>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br><br>Uns=
ubscribe/Manage:<br>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@k=
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From: Wilko2 <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 18:03:42 -0800

Sounds to me like the switch on the firewall is out of adjustment. It's an easy fix.

Rick

On Feb 4, 2016, at 4:47 PM, Per Schoerner wrote:

> Charlie
> What you have is one relay and one switch. Standing in front of the car the right box is the relay and the left box is the switch. The purpose of the switch is to keep the relay energised until you accelerate a bit, then it should brake the circuit. That is when you have switched the overdrive dash switch off of course.
> Perhaps your switch is faulty, or just misadjusted. Disconnect the cables from it and test it with an ohm meter. When correctly adjusted it should brake the circuit when the accelerator pedal is pushed 20% IIRC.
> 
> Per
> 

[email-masked]

---

From: Chris Dimmock <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2016 00:04:34 +1100

Charlie,
Your sender unit is installed 180 degrees out. 
Don't rely on the top of the sender unit for direction. 
The float needs to sit inside the tank 'valley'. 
I.e the float needs to face the front of the car, not the back. 
Try it. 
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 26 Aug 2015, at 4:04 AM, Charlie Schott <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> When the gas gauge on my 1960 BT7 reads 1/4, I'm out of gas. Can the sending unit or the gauge be adjusted? 

[email-masked]

---

From: "Reinhart Rosner" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2016 23:55:08 +0100

Chris,
In my BN1 the gauge reads empty when completely full. When it reads full, I
know that the tank is 3/4 full. And when it reads 1/4 full, I know that it’s
about getting empty. More or less I learned to live with that.

As you tell us this only happens, because the sender is installed 180 deg.
out?

Is there any way to tell from above without having to open the sealing
around the sender, if it is mounted in the wrong direction? 

Reinhart

Reinhart Rosner
55 100 BN 1
Vienna – Austria

-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] Im Auftrag von Chris
Dimmock
Gesendet: Sonntag, 07. Februar 2016 14:05
An: Charlie Schott
Cc: Steve B. Gerow; [email-masked]
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Gas Gauge

Charlie,

[email-masked]

ox.team.net

---

From: Chris Dimmock <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2016 12:46:26 +1100

Hi Reinhart,
No, if your gauge reads normally, except it never reads below 1/4 of a tank, then it's usually because the sender is the wrong way around. The float needs to sit in the matching valley in the tank. The measuring point on the float is the Centre on a vertical plane. If the bottom of the float sits on the flat bottom of the tank, then the gauge can't ever read less than 1/4, even if the tank is empty, because the Centre line of the float is 1/2 inch or so from the bottom of the tank. 
The bottom of the float needs to sit below the tank floor (I.e. In the valley) in order for the Centre line of the float (on the vertical plane) to be level with the bottom of tank, and read empty on the gauge. 
Usually, if all else reads correctly, but it never reads below 1/4, it's because the sender is around the wrong way, and the sender float isn't sitting in the valley. 
Can't help explain why yours reads empty when it's full, but full when it's 3/4. 
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 8 Feb 2016, at 9:55 AM, Reinhart Rosner <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Chris,

[email-masked]

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From: "Charlie Schott" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2016 15:12:23 -0600

I'm trying to get the guts out of my speedometer to clean and oil it. The 
needle rarely gets over 20 MPH. I can remove the knurled knob from the trip 
odometer stem but it looks like I have to also remove the stem. Can anyone 
please tell me how to do it? Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie Schott

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

---

From: Michael <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 08:21:06 +1100

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Hi Charlie,
I watched my instrument rebuilder take my 100 speedometer apart and he remo=
ved the needle and then the face before taking the mechanism out of the cas=
e.
He had a special took for removing the needle...=20
I think that's the approved procedure.
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Charlie Schott" <[email-masked]>
Sent: =E2=80=8E9/=E2=80=8E02/=E2=80=8E2016 8:12 a.m.
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <[email-masked]>; "[email-masked]" <he=
[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speedometer

I'm trying to get the guts out of my speedometer to clean and oil it. The=20
needle rarely gets over 20 MPH. I can remove the knurled knob from the trip=
=20
odometer stem but it looks like I have to also remove the stem. Can anyone=
=20
please tell me how to do it? Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie Schott

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=
=3Dutf-8"></head><body><div><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; =
font-size: 11pt;">Hi Charlie,<br>I watched my instrument rebuilder take my =
100 speedometer apart and he removed the needle and then the face before ta=
king the mechanism out of the case.<br>He had a special took for removing t=
he needle... <br>I think that's the approved procedure.<br>Michael S<br>BN1=
 #174</div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><hr><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,s=
ans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">From: </span><span style=3D=
"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto:schot=
[email-masked]">Charlie Schott</a></span><br><span style=3D"font-family: Ca=
libri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Sent: </span><span s=
tyle=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">=E2=80=8E9/=E2=
=80=8E02/=E2=80=8E2016 8:12 a.m.</span><br><span style=3D"font-family: Cali=
bri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">To: </span><span style=
=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto:st=
[email-masked]">Steve B. Gerow</a>; <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
eam.net">[email-masked]</a></span><br><span style=3D"font-family: C=
alibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Subject: </span><sp=
an style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Re: [Healeys=
] Speedometer</span><br><br></div>I'm trying to get the guts out of my spee=
dometer to clean and oil it. The <br>needle rarely gets over 20 MPH. I can =
remove the knurled knob from the trip <br>odometer stem but it looks like I=
 have to also remove the stem. Can anyone <br>please tell me how to do it? =
Thanks.<br><br>Regards,<br><br>Charlie Schott<br><br><br><br><br>__________=
_____________________________________<br>Support Team.Net http://www.team.n=
et/donate.html<br>Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br>Archive: http:/=
/www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br><br>Healeys@=
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ubscribe/Manage:<br>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@k=
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From: FGary Springer <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2016 15:29:44 -0600

--===============1300925345398499608==

--047d7bdca4404a3d5a052b48e68e

Charlie,
Not a good idea to oil the speedometer I have been told.  Oil or grease
will interfere with the magnetic pick-up.  Cleaning up with alcohol on a
pipe cleaner of Q-Tip is OK.  The cable can be lubed to with the last 8-10
inches of the end that goes into the speedometer.  I have had the same
problem that you describe with my BT7.
Regards,
Gary Springer

On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 3:12 PM, Charlie Schott <[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--047d7bdca4404a3d5a052b48e68e
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div><div>Charlie,<br></div>Not a good idea to oil th=
e speedometer I have been told.=C2=A0 Oil or grease will interfere with the=
 magnetic pick-up.=C2=A0 Cleaning up with alcohol on a pipe cleaner of Q-Ti=
p is OK.=C2=A0 The cable can be lubed to with the last 8-10 inches of the e=
nd that goes into the speedometer.=C2=A0 I have had the same problem that y=
ou describe with my BT7.=C2=A0 <br></div>Regards,<br></div>Gary Springer =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_=
quote">On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 3:12 PM, Charlie Schott <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt=
;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
et</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"marg=
in:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I&#39;m trying t=
o get the guts out of my speedometer to clean and oil it. The needle rarely=
 gets over 20 MPH. I can remove the knurled knob from the trip odometer ste=
m but it looks like I have to also remove the stem. Can anyone please tell =
me how to do it? Thanks.<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
<br>
Charlie Schott<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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From: HealeyRick <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2016 13:57:30 -1000

--===============7881920809688500951==

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Michael is correct.  The needle and face have to come off first.  I have a
"special tool" for removal of the needle as well.  18G-999 "Common Dinner
Fork".  First cut a "V" shaped slot into a cardboard index card.  Insert
the card between the needle and the speedo face so that the point of the V
is under the needle center.  The card is to protect the surface of the
gauge when using the "special tool."  Insert the fork so the space between
the middle tines are under the center part of the needle and carefully
lever (prise) the needle up.  Work around the needle a bit at a time,
moving the card as needed to protect the instrument face.  If you try to
lever just from one side, it will cock the needle on the pin and make it
difficult to withdraw.  Even still, they can be difficult to take off.
Then remove the two tiny screws holding the gauge face and remove the
face.  From there, tilt the gauge body so the tripmeter shaft clears the
hole, whilst pushing in on the shaft to make it as short as possible.
Resist the urge to do anything to clean the gauge face other than dusting
with a soft brush as by now the paint surface is quite fragile and you may
end up removing your markings. Return special took 18G-999 to the
dishwasher before SWMBO finds out.

Best of luck,
Rick Neville

On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 11:21 AM, Michael <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Hi Charlie,
> I watched my instrument rebuilder take my 100 speedometer apart and he
> removed the needle and then the face before taking the mechanism out of t=
he
> case.
> He had a special took for removing the needle...
> ------------------------------
> From: Charlie Schott <[email-masked]>
> To: Steve B. Gerow <[email-masked]>; [email-masked]
> odometer stem but it looks like I have to also remove the stem. Can anyon=
e
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>

--089e0111d0d8c08a5c052b4af673
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Michael is correct.=C2=A0 The needle and face have to come=
 off first.=C2=A0 I have a &quot;special tool&quot; for removal of the need=
le as well. =C2=A018G-999 &quot;Common Dinner Fork&quot;.=C2=A0 First cut a=
 &quot;V&quot; shaped slot into a cardboard index card.=C2=A0 Insert the ca=
rd between the needle and the speedo face so that the point of the V is und=
er the needle center.=C2=A0 The card is to protect the surface of the gauge=
 when using the &quot;special tool.&quot; =C2=A0Insert the fork so the spac=
e between the middle tines are under the center part of the needle and care=
fully lever (prise) the needle up.=C2=A0 Work around the needle a bit at a =
time, moving the card as needed to protect the instrument face.=C2=A0 If yo=
u try to lever just from one side, it will cock the needle on the pin and m=
ake it difficult to withdraw.=C2=A0 Even still, they can be difficult to ta=
ke off.=C2=A0 Then remove the two tiny screws holding the gauge face and re=
move the face.=C2=A0 From there, tilt the gauge body so the tripmeter shaft=
 clears the hole, whilst pushing in on the shaft to make it as short as pos=
sible.=C2=A0 Resist the urge to do anything to clean the gauge face other t=
han dusting with a soft brush as by now the paint surface is quite fragile =
and you may end up removing your markings. Return special took 18G-999 to t=
he dishwasher before SWMBO finds out.<div><br></div><div>Best of luck,</div=
><div>Rick Neville</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"=
gmail_quote">On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 11:21 AM, Michael <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt=
;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">michael.salt=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" sty=
le=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><=
div><div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt">Hi Charlie=
,<br>I watched my instrument rebuilder take my 100 speedometer apart and he=
 removed the needle and then the face before taking the mechanism out of th=
e case.<br>He had a special took for removing the needle... <br>I think tha=
t&#39;s the approved procedure.<br>Michael S<br>BN1 #174</div></div><div di=
r=3D"ltr"><hr><span style=3D"font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt;=
font-weight:bold">From: </span><span style=3D"font-family:Calibri,sans-seri=
f;font-size:11pt"><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">=
Charlie Schott</a></span><br><span style=3D"font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;=
font-size:11pt;font-weight:bold">Sent: </span><span style=3D"font-family:Ca=
libri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt">=E2=80=8E9/=E2=80=8E02/=E2=80=8E2016 8:12 =
a.m.</span><br><span style=3D"font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt=
;font-weight:bold">To: </span><span style=3D"font-family:Calibri,sans-serif=
;font-size:11pt"><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank=
">Steve B. Gerow</a>; <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_=
blank">[email-masked]</a></span><br><span style=3D"font-family:Cali=
bri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt;font-weight:bold">Subject: </span><span style=
=3D"font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt">Re: [Healeys] Speedomete=
r</span><br><br></div>I&#39;m trying to get the guts out of my speedometer =
to clean and oil it. The <br>needle rarely gets over 20 MPH. I can remove t=
he knurled knob from the trip <br>odometer stem but it looks like I have to=
 also remove the stem. Can anyone <br>please tell me how to do it? Thanks.<=
br><br>Regards,<br><br>Charlie Schott<br><br><br><br><br>__________________=
_____________________________<br>Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.tea=
m.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br=
>Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.75<br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.t=
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<br><br>_______________________________________________<br>Support Team.Net=
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rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 09:20:34 +0100

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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--------------060002030305030905080900
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I use two long screwdrivers to lift of the needle of a 
gauge/clock/speedo. Clamp the speedometer housing securely, twist the 
bezel and take it of together with the glass, put the tips of the 
screwdrivers under the centre of the needle opposite each other and use 
the rim of the speedo housing as a resting point while gently levering 
of the needle. This way there is no danger to damage the face although 
it is wise to cover it with a piece of cardboard, just in case.
As mentioned before only lightly dust the face as the white paint can 
dissolve in water when old.
Putting back the needle in the right position is easy as there is a 
small white dot on the "wrong" side of the resting pin. The needle 
should point to this dot when fitting/fitted. When the needle is fixed 
in its proper position just lift the tip of the needle gently over the 
resting pin to the left hand side.
Use some clock oil very very sparingly to lubricate the pivots of the 
needle assembly and cup only. Use 3-in-1 oil to lubricate the speedo 
cable receptacle. Clean out the outer speedo cable as good as you can 
using e.g. petrol/white spirit etc. wipe the inner cable clean and 
sparingly grease the inner cable only using multi purpose grease or 
graphite/molibdenium-disulfide grease.
However be aware that if a speedo stops working properly it is usually 
time for a complete overhaul/rebuild.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 9-2-2016 om 0:57 schreef HealeyRick:
> Michael is correct.  The needle and face have to come off first.  I 
> have a "special tool" for removal of the needle as well.  18G-999 
> "Common Dinner Fork".  First cut a "V" shaped slot into a cardboard 
> index card.  Insert the card between the needle and the speedo face so 
> that the point of the V is under the needle center.  The card is to 
> protect the surface of the gauge when using the "special tool." 
>  Insert the fork so the space between the middle tines are under the 
> center part of the needle and carefully lever (prise) the needle up. 
> Work around the needle a bit at a time, moving the card as needed to 
> protect the instrument face.  If you try to lever just from one side, 
> it will cock the needle on the pin and make it difficult to withdraw.  
> Even still, they can be difficult to take off.  Then remove the two 
> tiny screws holding the gauge face and remove the face.  From there, 
> tilt the gauge body so the tripmeter shaft clears the hole, whilst 
> pushing in on the shaft to make it as short as possible.  Resist the 
> urge to do anything to clean the gauge face other than dusting with a 
> soft brush as by now the paint surface is quite fragile and you may 
> On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 11:21 AM, Michael <[email-masked] 
>
>     Hi Charlie,
>     I watched my instrument rebuilder take my 100 speedometer apart
>     and he removed the needle and then the face before taking the
>     mechanism out of the case.
>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>     Sent: ‎9/‎02/‎2016 8:12 a.m.
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Versie: 2016.0.7357 / Virusdatabase: 4522/11584 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 02/08/16
>

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<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">I use two long screwdrivers to lift of
      the needle of a gauge/clock/speedo. Clamp the speedometer housing
      securely, twist the bezel and take it of together with the glass,
      put the tips of the screwdrivers under the centre of the needle
      opposite each other and use the rim of the speedo housing as a
      resting point while gently levering of the needle. This way there
      is no danger to damage the face although it is wise to cover it
      with a piece of cardboard, just in case.<br>
      As mentioned before only lightly dust the face as the white paint
      can dissolve in water when old.<br>
      Putting back the needle in the right position is easy as there is
      a small white dot on the "wrong" side of the resting pin. The
      needle should point to this dot when fitting/fitted. When the
      needle is fixed in its proper position just lift the tip of the
      needle gently over the resting pin to the left hand side.<br>
      Use some clock oil very very sparingly to lubricate the pivots of
      the needle assembly and cup only. Use 3-in-1 oil to lubricate the
      speedo cable receptacle. Clean out the outer speedo cable as good
      as you can using e.g. petrol/white spirit etc. wipe the inner
      cable clean and sparingly grease the inner cable only using multi
      purpose grease or graphite/molibdenium-disulfide grease.<br>
      However be aware that if a speedo stops working properly it is
      usually time for a complete overhaul/rebuild.<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 9-2-2016 om 0:57 schreef HealeyRick:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:CAGfzsZf-hcN4n0cOVhgH=[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">Michael is correct.  The needle and face have to
        come off first.  I have a "special tool" for removal of the
        needle as well.  18G-999 "Common Dinner Fork".  First cut a "V"
        shaped slot into a cardboard index card.  Insert the card
        between the needle and the speedo face so that the point of the
        V is under the needle center.  The card is to protect the
        surface of the gauge when using the "special tool."  Insert the
        fork so the space between the middle tines are under the center
        part of the needle and carefully lever (prise) the needle up. 
        Work around the needle a bit at a time, moving the card as
        needed to protect the instrument face.  If you try to lever just
        from one side, it will cock the needle on the pin and make it
        difficult to withdraw.  Even still, they can be difficult to
        take off.  Then remove the two tiny screws holding the gauge
        face and remove the face.  From there, tilt the gauge body so
        the tripmeter shaft clears the hole, whilst pushing in on the
        shaft to make it as short as possible.  Resist the urge to do
        anything to clean the gauge face other than dusting with a soft
        brush as by now the paint surface is quite fragile and you may
        end up removing your markings. Return special took 18G-999 to
        the dishwasher before SWMBO finds out.
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Best of luck,</div>
        <div>Rick Neville</div>
      </div>
      <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
        <div class="gmail_quote">On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 11:21 AM,
          Michael <span dir="ltr">&lt;<a moz-do-not-send="true"
              href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span>
          wrote:<br>
          <blockquote class="gmail_quote">
            <div>
              <div>
                <div>Hi Charlie,<br>
                  I watched my instrument rebuilder take my 100
                  speedometer apart and he removed the needle and then
                  the face before taking the mechanism out of the case.<br>
                  He had a special took for removing the needle... <br>
                  I think that's the approved procedure.<br>
                  Michael S<br>
                  BN1 #174</div>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">
                <hr><span>From: </span><span><a moz-do-not-send="true"
                    href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">Charlie
                    Schott</a></span><br>
                <span>Sent: </span><span>‎9/‎02/‎2016 8:12 a.m.</span><br>
                <span>To: </span><span><a moz-do-not-send="true"
                    href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">Steve
                    B. Gerow</a>; <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                    href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">[email-masked]</a></span><br>
                <span>Subject: </span><span>Re: [Healeys] Speedometer</span><br>
                <br>
              </div>
              I'm trying to get the guts out of my speedometer to clean
              and oil it. The <br>
              needle rarely gets over 20 MPH. I can remove the knurled
              knob from the trip <br>
              odometer stem but it looks like I have to also remove the
              stem. Can anyone <br>
              please tell me how to do it? Thanks.<br>
              <br>
              Regards,<br>
              <br>
              Charlie Schott<br>
              <br>
              <br>
              <br>
              <br>
              _______________________________________________<br>
              Support Team.Net <a moz-do-not-send="true"
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