Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dog leg repair

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2015 09:34:04 -0800

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Here you go Ira.  Moss sells 2 types of these; this is the higher priced version which comes from Kilmartin and has the 
proper wire bead.  The lower cost version just has the metal on the well edge folded over, but is otherwise OK quality.  
I installed the cheaper ones on my BJ8 and will replace them when I get a round tuit.

You'll have to work the metal some to get these to fit properly. Make sure you achieve the gentle curve along the bottom 
of the body between the wheel wells; I've seen far too many dog leg repairs--some done by 'pros'--where the rear edge of 
the repair panel sticks down and/or out, making it look like the car has a 'spur.'  Once you're aware of this aberration 
it will be the first thing you 'see' on every Healey you look at thereafter.

As for fitting up the bead, I can think of two ways: either unroll the bead on the wheel well and stick the protruding 
wire on the repair panel into the existing bead and fold it back up and butt-weld the sheet metal, or cut both off 
square, butt-weld them together and file/sand, and maybe fill the joint so it looks and feels seamless.  If you do this 
before I acquire a round tuit let us know what you did and how it worked out.

Cheers,
Bob

On 1/31/2015 8:34 AM, I Erbs wrote:
>
> I need to fix an improperly repaired dog leg. Can I get a photo of a replacement unit. I believe the shop cut the wire 
> off, how is it used in a correct instalation?   This would b Ave been easier before  we painted the car. Good thing I 
> opted  for two stage paint.
>
>
>
>

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            [email-masked]

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From: I Erbs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2015 09:38:52 -0800

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--001a1140742ea4d00e050df63372

I think my body guy cut the panel to fit the removed rust bits and with it
the extended wire. One side looks great. the other is cracking were the
pieces were joined.
Thanks for the photo

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR

"Wouldn't you rather vote for what you want and not get it
 than vote for what you don't want - and get it?" Eugene Debs

On Sat, Jan 31, 2015 at 9:34 AM, Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Here you go Ira.  Moss sells 2 types of these; this is the higher priced
> version which comes from Kilmartin and has the proper wire bead.  The lower
> cost version just has the metal on the well edge folded over, but is
> otherwise OK quality.  I installed the cheaper ones on my BJ8 and will
> replace them when I get a round tuit.
>
> You'll have to work the metal some to get these to fit properly. Make sure
> you achieve the gentle curve along the bottom of the body between the wheel
> wells; I've seen far too many dog leg repairs--some done by 'pros'--where
> the rear edge of the repair panel sticks down and/or out, making it look
> like the car has a 'spur.'  Once you're aware of this aberration it will be
> the first thing you 'see' on every Healey you look at thereafter.
>
> As for fitting up the bead, I can think of two ways: either unroll the
> bead on the wheel well and stick the protruding wire on the repair panel
> into the existing bead and fold it back up and butt-weld the sheet metal,
> or cut both off square, butt-weld them together and file/sand, and maybe
> fill the joint so it looks and feels seamless.  If you do this before I
> acquire a round tuit let us know what you did and how it worked out.
>
> Cheers,
> Bob
>
>
>
>> I need to fix an improperly repaired dog leg. Can I get a photo of a
>> replacement unit. I believe the shop cut the wire off, how is it used in a
>> correct instalation?   This would b Ave been easier before  we painted the
>> car. Good thing I opted  for two stage paint.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">I t=
hink my body guy cut the panel to fit the removed rust bits and with it the=
 extended wire. One side looks great. the other is cracking were the pieces=
 were joined.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">T=
hanks for the photo</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br clear=3D"all"=
><div><div class=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr">Ira Erbs<div>IT=C2=A0Teacher=
=C2=A0</div><div>and Consultant</div><div>Portland, OR</div><div><font colo=
r=3D"#242424" face=3D"Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, Geneva, sans-serif"><span =
style=3D"line-height:10.4px;font-size:12.72px;background-color:rgb(246,243,=
236)"><br></span></font></div><div><span style=3D"color:rgb(36,36,36);font-=
family:Verdana,Geneva,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12px;font-style:=
italic;line-height:12px">&quot;Wouldn&#39;t you rather vote for what you wa=
nt and not get it</span></div><div><span style=3D"color:rgb(36,36,36);font-=
family:Verdana,Geneva,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12px;font-style:=
italic;line-height:12px">=C2=A0than vote for what you don&#39;t want - and =
get it?&quot; Eugene Debs</span><br></div>
<div><p style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;font-size:medium">=
<span style=3D"line-height:18px;font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font=
-size:12px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">=C2=A0</span></p></div><div>=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0</div>
<div><br>
<div><br></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
<br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sat, Jan 31, 2015 at 9:34 AM, Bob Spidell=
 <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_b=
lank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gm=
ail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-le=
ft:1ex">Here you go Ira.=C2=A0 Moss sells 2 types of these; this is the hig=
her priced version which comes from Kilmartin and has the proper wire bead.=
=C2=A0 The lower cost version just has the metal on the well edge folded ov=
er, but is otherwise OK quality.=C2=A0 I installed the cheaper ones on my B=
J8 and will replace them when I get a round tuit.<br>
<br>
You&#39;ll have to work the metal some to get these to fit properly. Make s=
ure you achieve the gentle curve along the bottom of the body between the w=
heel wells; I&#39;ve seen far too many dog leg repairs--some done by &#39;p=
ros&#39;--where the rear edge of the repair panel sticks down and/or out, m=
aking it look like the car has a &#39;spur.&#39;=C2=A0 Once you&#39;re awar=
e of this aberration it will be the first thing you &#39;see&#39; on every =
Healey you look at thereafter.<br>
<br>
As for fitting up the bead, I can think of two ways: either unroll the bead=
 on the wheel well and stick the protruding wire on the repair panel into t=
he existing bead and fold it back up and butt-weld the sheet metal, or cut =
both off square, butt-weld them together and file/sand, and maybe fill the =
joint so it looks and feels seamless.=C2=A0 If you do this before I acquire=
 a round tuit let us know what you did and how it worked out.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 1/31/2015 8:34 AM, I Erbs wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<br>
I need to fix an improperly repaired dog leg. Can I get a photo of a replac=
ement unit. I believe the shop cut the wire off, how is it used in a correc=
t instalation?=C2=A0 =C2=A0This would b Ave been easier before=C2=A0 we pai=
nted the car. Good thing I opted=C2=A0 for two stage paint.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888">
</font></span></blockquote><span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888">
<br>
<br>
-- <br>
******************************<u></u>******************************<u></u>*=
******<br>
Bob Spidell=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0San Jose, CA=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" tar=
get=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
******************************<u></u>******************************<u></u>*=
******<br>
<br>
</font></span></blockquote></div><br></div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2015 13:36:53 -0500

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--001a11348094552bb9050df7017f

Hi Ira,
Cutting the wire is an absolute no-no in the panel restoration business
because a continuous wire is required to maintain the strength of the
rolled edge at the join.
Without the continuous wire you end up with a weak spot in the rolled edge
which will become a stress point and eventually crack.
The panel can be cut back sufficiently to allow a new piece of wire to be
welded to what remains but it is not that easy to do well in conjunction
with a butt welded panel joint. Certainly not a job for a first year
apprentice!!

Michael S
BN1 #174
*http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=445
<http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=445>*

On Sat, Jan 31, 2015 at 12:38 PM, I Erbs <[email-masked]> wrote:

>> You'll have to work the metal some to get these to fit properly. Make
>> sure you achieve the gentle curve along the bottom of the body between the
>> wheel wells; I've seen far too many dog leg repairs--some done by
>> 'pros'--where the rear edge of the repair panel sticks down and/or out,
>> making it look like the car has a 'spur.'  Once you're aware of this
>> aberration it will be the first thing you 'see' on every Healey you look at
>> thereafter.
>>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> [email-masked]
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>

-- 
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*

--001a11348094552bb9050df7017f
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Ira,<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defa=
ult" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Cutting=
 the wire is an absolute no-no in the panel restoration business because a =
continuous wire is required to maintain the strength of the rolled edge at =
the join.<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic =
sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Without the continuous wire you end up =
with a weak spot in the rolled edge which will become a stress point and ev=
entually crack. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family=
:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The panel can be cut back suffic=
iently to allow a new piece of wire to be welded to what remains but it is =
not that easy to do well in conjunction with a butt welded panel joint. Cer=
tainly not a job for a first year apprentice!!<br><br></div><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small=
">Michael S<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comi=
c sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br><b><a href=3D"http://www.=
netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D445">http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D445=
</a></b><br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_=
quote">On Sat, Jan 31, 2015 at 12:38 PM, I Erbs <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</=
span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8e=
x;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">I think my body guy cut the pa=
nel to fit the removed rust bits and with it the extended wire. One side lo=
oks great. the other is cracking were the pieces were joined.</div><div cla=
ss=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Thanks for the photo</div></=
div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br clear=3D"all"><div><div><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr">Ira Erbs=
<div>IT=C2=A0Teacher=C2=A0</div><div>and Consultant</div><div>Portland, OR<=
/div><div><font color=3D"#242424" face=3D"Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, Geneva=
, sans-serif"><span style=3D"line-height:10.4px;font-size:12.72px;backgroun=
d-color:rgb(246,243,236)"><br></span></font></div><div><span style=3D"color=
:rgb(36,36,36);font-family:Verdana,Geneva,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-s=
ize:12px;font-style:italic;line-height:12px">&quot;Wouldn&#39;t you rather =
vote for what you want and not get it</span></div><div><span style=3D"color=
:rgb(36,36,36);font-family:Verdana,Geneva,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-s=
ize:12px;font-style:italic;line-height:12px">=C2=A0than vote for what you d=
on&#39;t want - and get it?&quot; Eugene Debs</span><br></div>
<div><p style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;;font-size:medium">=
<span style=3D"line-height:18px;font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font=
-size:12px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">=C2=A0</span></p></div><div>=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0</div>
<div><br>
<div><br></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>=
<div><div class=3D"h5">
<br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sat, Jan 31, 2015 at 9:34 AM, Bob Spidell=
 <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_b=
lank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gm=
ail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-le=
ft:1ex">Here you go Ira.=C2=A0 Moss sells 2 types of these; this is the hig=
her priced version which comes from Kilmartin and has the proper wire bead.=
=C2=A0 The lower cost version just has the metal on the well edge folded ov=
er, but is otherwise OK quality.=C2=A0 I installed the cheaper ones on my B=
J8 and will replace them when I get a round tuit.<br>
<br>
You&#39;ll have to work the metal some to get these to fit properly. Make s=
ure you achieve the gentle curve along the bottom of the body between the w=
heel wells; I&#39;ve seen far too many dog leg repairs--some done by &#39;p=
ros&#39;--where the rear edge of the repair panel sticks down and/or out, m=
aking it look like the car has a &#39;spur.&#39;=C2=A0 Once you&#39;re awar=
e of this aberration it will be the first thing you &#39;see&#39; on every =
Healey you look at thereafter.<br>
<br>
As for fitting up the bead, I can think of two ways: either unroll the bead=
 on the wheel well and stick the protruding wire on the repair panel into t=
he existing bead and fold it back up and butt-weld the sheet metal, or cut =
both off square, butt-weld them together and file/sand, and maybe fill the =
joint so it looks and feels seamless.=C2=A0 If you do this before I acquire=
 a round tuit let us know what you did and how it worked out.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 1/31/2015 8:34 AM, I Erbs wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<br>
I need to fix an improperly repaired dog leg. Can I get a photo of a replac=
ement unit. I believe the shop cut the wire off, how is it used in a correc=
t instalation?=C2=A0 =C2=A0This would b Ave been easier before=C2=A0 we pai=
nted the car. Good thing I opted=C2=A0 for two stage paint.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><span><font color=3D"#888888">
</font></span></blockquote><span><font color=3D"#888888">
<br>
<br>
-- <br>
******************************<u></u>******************************<u></u>*=
******<br>
Bob Spidell=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0San Jose, CA=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" tar=
get=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
******************************<u></u>******************************<u></u>*=
******<br>
<br>
</font></span></blockquote></div><br></div></div></div>
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nk">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank">http://w=
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.team.net/forums</a><br>
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<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
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s/[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/=
options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div class=3D"gmail=
_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><i><font><span style=3D"=
color:black">If you can&#39;t fix it with a hammer, you&#39;ve got an elect=
rical problem.</span></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><div></div></=
div></div></div></div>
</div>

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[email-masked]

--===============5280707923640999732==--

---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2015 10:54:57 -0800

HOWEVER .... (there's always a 'however' ;)

I made this repair with the cheapie repair panels without the rolled wire edge--metal was just folded over--and the 
repair has survived, oh, ten years and 50K miles or more without cracking.

On 1/31/2015 10:36 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi Ira,
> Cutting the wire is an absolute no-no in the panel restoration business because a continuous wire is required to 
> maintain the strength of the rolled edge at the join.
> Without the continuous wire you end up with a weak spot in the rolled edge which will become a stress point and 
> eventually crack.
> The panel can be cut back sufficiently to allow a new piece of wire to be welded to what remains but it is not that 
> easy to do well in conjunction with a butt welded panel joint. Certainly not a job for a first year apprentice!!
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> *http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=445*
>
>
>     I think my body guy cut the panel to fit the removed rust bits and with it the extended wire. One side looks
>     great. the other is cracking were the pieces were joined.
>     Thanks for the photo
>
>     Ira Erbs
>     IT Teacher
>     and Consultant
>     Portland, OR
>

[email-masked]