Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel balance

From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2013 20:26:13 -0700

Rich:  I saw that, too.  I also remember seeing one of the same concept 
being used at an F1 race in Europe years (and years) ago.  I do not think 
that there is any spinning involved.  As I recall, the concept is that the 
heavy side of the wheel would rotate to the bottom.  You would then add 
weight to the top until the wheel did not rotate any longer.  If that is how 
it works, I think it would be a subjective and time consuming task if you 
were not skilled at it.

I went to the Harbor Freight web site and looked at the item and read some 
of the reviews.  I do not believe that the HF one would be heavy duty enough 
for our Healey wheels but I could be wrong.  You would need to have cones 
made to fit our hubs as the cones in the pictures look small as they are 
designed for motorcycle wheels.

There appears to be a couple of manufacturers with one being better than the 
other.  This information is from the remarks on the HF website regarding 
this item.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Kahn" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 5:23 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel balance

>I saw a motorcycle wire wheel balancer at Harbor Freight that looked
> interesting. It sat upright and spun on two cones. I was wondering if it 
> would
> work on our wheels? I have a bubble type wheel balancer that I got at 
> Harbor
> Freight that I have finally mastered but I am curious about this device.
> _______________________________________________
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---

From: Marvin James <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2013 05:35:13 -0700

I've got the No Mar Monster Balancer with the big cones.

http://www.nomartirechanger.com/category_s/38.htm

A lot pricier than the HF unit but when I bought mine, I think I paid less
than half what they get for it now.

It's  more sensitive than the bubble balancer I used before. I modified a
front hub and knock-off to slide on the shaft. I felt that was more
accurate than the cones. I am using the cones right now to balance some Jag
wires.

I also made an adapter to balance brake drums.

Marv J

On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 5:23 PM, Richard Kahn <[email-masked]>wrote:

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From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 21:43:21 -0400

The difficulty that you will encounter with that type of balancer is that
it is a single plane balancer.
That will be fine for the rear wheels (insofar as perceivable imbalance is
concerned) but...
If the tire has a lot of weight on say one sidewall at one point adding
weight on the other sidewall, opposite the weight on the first sidewall,
will produce a satisfactory result on that type of balancer (and perhaps a
rear mounted wheel) but an imbalance that will be felt in the steering if
the wheel is fitted to the front.
To ensure that the weight is installed on the correct side of the wheel a
dynamic 2 plane balancer is essential.

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 8:35 AM, Marvin James <[email-masked]> wrote:

> On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 5:23 PM, Richard Kahn <[email-masked]
> >wrote:
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

-- 
Michael Salter

[email-masked]

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 17:21:06 -1000

Very true, Michael, but a bubble balancer or the motorcycle equivalent
is what is available to most of us most of the time.  At least it
seats the wheel on an appropriate cone. If you take your wheels to a
"Tires R Us" place the wheels won't be seated on one cone, let alone
two.  The result can be pretty miserable.

So, it is recorded in the archives that  one can midify a splined hub
and a knock-off to mount our wire wheels to a modern wheel balancer. I
am willing to produce a set like that but I am not a machinist.  Are
there drawings anywhere that I could take to a real machinist to
modify  the pieces (I have plenty of them lying around)?

Any Healey enthusiast machinists who are looking for something to
while awaythe winter hours snowed in?  I would pay for a set of cones,
one interior one exterior in a heartbeat.

-Roland
-BN1 #724

[email-masked]

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From: Magnus Karlsson <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 07:20:09 +0200

Do not try to modify a hub and spinner to fit on a wheel balancer. It will not
give a satisfactory result. The best way is to machine one inner and one outer
cone that will fit the shaft on a particular machine. The holes in the cones
need to be two to three hundreds of a millimeter larger than the shaft.

Once I made my own set of cones I found that the Dunlop wheels made in India
infact are very good, requiring only very small weights.

Magnus Karlsson
BorC%s Motor Corporation AB
www.concourshealeys.com

> 24 okt 2013 kl. 05:21 skrev [email-masked]:
>
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From: Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 06:26:35 -0400

Magnus,

Does your set of cones mimic the hub/knockoff, picking up the same 
surfaces on the wheel?

Re: two to three hundreds of a millimeter:  Assume you mean hundredths. 
0.02-0.03 mm is 0.0008-0.0011 inches. Pretty snug.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

[email-masked]

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From: Magnus Karlsson <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 12:58:46 +0200

Yes, they pick up the same surfaces.

Of course I meant hundredths. You have to forgive my mistake but English is
not my native language. It's important to get it real snug, otherwise it wont
work.

Magnus Karlsson

Skickat frC%n min iPhone

> 24 okt 2013 kl. 12:26 skrev Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>:
>
> Magnus,
>
> Does your set of cones mimic the hub/knockoff, picking up the same surfaces
on the wheel?

[email-masked]