Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 Healey

From: Austin Healey <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 10:33:32 +0200

Hi Chris,

Welcome on board!

I think I am unable to do any real diagnosis through the net, but if You
are not fully prepared to do the work on the car, it is my best advice that
You should find a good specialist in your neighbourhood who will help You
with the issues. Theese are oldschool mechanics, they need maintenance and
care, but if they are looked after, they will make many problemfree miles
for You.

Best wishes:
Gergo

2013/6/23 Chris Scholz <[email-masked]>

> Hello, I am new to this list.  Just purchased a 1959 austin healey 100-6
> which
> has a newly rebuilt engine, and underwent a full restoration in 1990.  I
> have
> some questions on things I found wrong on the car:
>
> 1.  The car runs better with choke half out, high idle.  I put the choke
> in,
> and it eventually stalls.  Tonight, it may have flooded, or vapor locked
> because I cannot get it restarted.  I will let it sit for a couple hours.
>  Is
> this a simple carb tune-up issue?
>
> 2.  The clutch makes a howling noise intermittently when fully engaged,
> and it
> is hard to shift into gear--this in intermittent.  It is almost like the
> hydraulic fluid may be low, so the clutch is not fully disengaging.  But
> why
> is it so intermittent?
>
> 3.  This newly rebuilt engine has only a few hundred miles on it--I have
> the
> build sheet from the specialty British shop that did the work.  But the car
> has some mild oil leaks.  The seller says this is normal bbutecause of the
> leather gaskets--I noticed the biggest leak is on the passenger side, where
> the distributor assembly bolts to the block.  Is it normal for all Healeys
> to
> leak some oil?
>
> The car is in great shape, but I don't feel comfortable driving it because
> of
> the worry it may quit or flood or vapor lock, or something.
>
> Looking forward to your opinions.
>
> Chris in Iowa.
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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 11:09:47 -0700

I'll take a stab, but there are more accomplished mechanical types on the list.

Comments below.

On 6/22/2013 6:16 PM, Chris Scholz wrote:
> Hello, I am new to this list.  Just purchased a 1959 austin healey 100-6 which
> has a newly rebuilt engine, and underwent a full restoration in 1990.  I have
> 1.  The car runs better with choke half out, high idle.  I put the choke in,
> because I cannot get it restarted.  I will let it sit for a couple hours.  Is

The first half of the choke travel should only open the throttles, the second half should lower the jets inducing a 
richer mixture. Sounds like your throttles are not set properly.
>
> 2.  The clutch makes a howling noise intermittently when fully engaged, and it
> hydraulic fluid may be low, so the clutch is not fully disengaging.  But why
> is it so intermittent?

Could be hydraulic fluid level, air in the line, etc.  Sometimes, things are intermittent even thought they logically 
seem like they shouldn't be.  Also, the throwout 'bearing' is a carbon disk, if it wasn't replaced at engine rebuild--it 
should have been--you may be getting metal-to-metal contact between the 'bearing' housing and the clutch actuating disk.
>
> 3.  This newly rebuilt engine has only a few hundred miles on it--I have the
> the distributor assembly bolts to the block.  Is it normal for all Healeys to
> leak some oil?

I don't know of any 'leather' gaskets on a Healey engine.  The front seal is a 'rope' type, the rear main has a 'reverse 
Archimedes' scroll that is supposed to channel oil back into the engine (if sort-of works).   If your rebuilder told you 
there are leather gaskets I'd be questioning his knowledge and/or truthiness (but, there may, if fact, be leather 
gaskets somewhere but I can't recall one).
>
> The car is in great shape, but I don't feel comfortable driving it because of

-- 
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Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            [email-masked]

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---

From: "David Porter" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 13:08:16 -0600

That loud howl is likely the grease in/on the pilot bearing is dried up..
not easy fix...
dave

[email-masked]

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 12:10 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 Healey

I'll take a stab, but there are more accomplished mechanical types on the
list.

Comments below.

which
have
in,
Is
> this a simple carb tune-up issue?

The first half of the choke travel should only open the throttles, the
second half should lower the jets inducing a 
richer mixture. Sounds like your throttles are not set properly.
and it
why
> is it so intermittent?

Could be hydraulic fluid level, air in the line, etc.  Sometimes, things are
intermittent even thought they logically 
seem like they shouldn't be.  Also, the throwout 'bearing' is a carbon disk,
if it wasn't replaced at engine rebuild--it 
should have been--you may be getting metal-to-metal contact between the
'bearing' housing and the clutch actuating disk.
the
to
> leak some oil?

I don't know of any 'leather' gaskets on a Healey engine.  The front seal is
a 'rope' type, the rear main has a 'reverse 
Archimedes' scroll that is supposed to channel oil back into the engine (if
sort-of works).   If your rebuilder told you 
there are leather gaskets I'd be questioning his knowledge and/or truthiness
(but, there may, if fact, be leather 
gaskets somewhere but I can't recall one).
of

[email-masked]

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---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 18:43:34 -0400

Hi Chris, welcome to the Healey fraternity.
I have a lot of experience on Healeys, as a professional so will try to
answer as best I can.

*1.  The car runs better with choke half out, high idle.  I put the choke
in,
and it eventually stalls.  Tonight, it may have flooded, or vapor locked
because I cannot get it restarted.  I will let it sit for a couple hours.
 Is
this a simple carb tune-up issue?*
This sounds like carb set up to me however before you start on them check
the ignition timing, if it is wrong you will never get it to run correctly.
The ignition timing should be about 5/8" BTDC static on the timing marks on
the front pulley.
As for setting up the carbs I would strongly recommend that you do some
reading. I would recommend this site
http://www.triumphclub.co.nz/?page_id=26

*2.  The clutch makes a howling noise intermittently when fully engaged,
and it
is hard to shift into gear--this in intermittent.  It is almost like the
hydraulic fluid may be low, so the clutch is not fully disengaging.  But why
is it so intermittent?*
I need a better description. By "engaged" do you mean pedal depressed
(clutch disengaged) or pedal released (clutch engaged). If the clutch makes
a noise when the pedal is depressed there are a few possibilities. The
carbon clutch release bearing may be worn down but that would usually make
a noise as soon as you started to press the clutch pedal. An over sized
master cylinder may have been fitted causing the clutch to "overstroke",
but I think the most likely cause is that the pilot bush in the end of the
crankshaft is dry and seizing or chattering. To fix that the gearbox and
clutch have to come out.

*3.  This newly rebuilt engine has only a few hundred miles on it--I have
the
build sheet from the specialty British shop that did the work.  But the car
has some mild oil leaks.  The seller says this is normal bbutecause of the
leather gaskets--I noticed the biggest leak is on the passenger side, where
the distributor assembly bolts to the block.  Is it normal for all Healeys
to
leak some oil?
*
The only leather gasket that I know of on a Healey is on the gauge end of
the oil pressure line. Some minor oil leakage (a couple of drops after a
run) would be considered normal. There should be a paper gasket between the
distributor pedestal and the block. Oil leaks there are easily fixed. There
is an oil feed pipe to the pedestal from the main oil gallery and the banjo
fittings on either end use fiber washers either side of the banjo. If those
washers are damaged or missing or either of the banjo bolts is stripped
there will be a significant leak around them.*

*
Hope that helps,
Michael S

On Sat, Jun 22, 2013 at 9:16 PM, Chris Scholz
<[email-masked]>wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

-- 
Michael Salter

[email-masked]

---

From: I Erbs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 16:04:59 -0700

You'll need to check for vacuum leaks or adjust carbs or both.
They all leak a bit. Keeps them from getting rustythe only leather gasket
is between oil se Der and hard line.
Join a local Healey or British car club and get advice on a good mechanic.
Many folks are traveling to Healey meets and the list should be slow.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
On Jun 23, 2013 11:09 AM, "Bob Spidell" <[email-masked]> wrote:

> second half should lower the jets inducing a richer mixture. Sounds like
> your throttles are not set properly.
>
>>
> Could be hydraulic fluid level, air in the line, etc.  Sometimes, things
> are intermittent even thought they logically seem like they shouldn't be.
>  Also, the throwout 'bearing' is a carbon disk, if it wasn't replaced at
> engine rebuild--it should have been--you may be getting metal-to-metal
> contact between the 'bearing' housing and the clutch actuating disk.
>
>>
> I don't know of any 'leather' gaskets on a Healey engine.  The front seal
> is a 'rope' type, the rear main has a 'reverse Archimedes' scroll that is
> supposed to channel oil back into the engine (if sort-of works).   If your
> rebuilder told you there are leather gaskets I'd be questioning his
> knowledge and/or truthiness (but, there may, if fact, be leather gaskets
> somewhere but I can't recall one).
>
>>
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