Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Luggage Rack

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 15:43:26 -0400 (EDT)

-----Original Message-----
From: editorgary <[email-masked]>
To: healeys <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sun, Jun 16, 2013 12:40 pm
Subject: Luggage Rack

 Your biggest potential problem will be the hinges. If they are the stock
originals, they rotate on a serrated press-fit pin that can be pushed out from
the smaller diameter end, and then the large bolt is inserted in place,
fastening the luggage rack so it lifts with the boot lid. (And be sure that
you don't lose those little pins, so figure out where you'll put them for when
you want to remove the rack.)

If your hinges are, in fact, fitted with rivets, then they're the cheap
aftermarket replacements sold from some third-rate suppliers, and you will not
be able to mount the luggage rack until you buy new original-spec hinges.

As originally intended, the legs are fastened with the chrome brackets to the
bottom lip of the boot lid in such a way that the rubber legs rest on the
bumper brackets. It's a bit complicated, but does work and positions the
luggage rack parallel with the ground. However, on the roadsters, that means
you can't see over anything fastened to the rack -- but then, with the
convertible you already have that problem whenever the top is put down.

Instead of fitting as original, some of us simply have rotated the rear legs
180 degrees so that instead of going out and down, they go down then out, and
can be rested into the bumper guards, with the rack at an angle parallel to
the boot lid. The only thing you have to do then is bungee the rack to the
bumper once the luggage is put on it, so it stays stuck down into the bumper
guards.

Good luck with the hinges.

G.

Gary Anderson
Editor-at-Large
Austin-Healey Magaziner

the rack to the trunk lid. They sentme:1 trunk rack,2 rubber capped legs about
15" long,2 acorn nuts (which I think I see in the cataloge photo) threaded on
to whatamounts to be around 1/4" bolt about 1/2 " long with a smooth 1.5" long
1/8"diameter shaft coming out of the bolt head,1 strip of rubber about 5" x
1-3/4",2  hex  3/8" or 5/16" bolts about 3/4" long with hex nuts and2
partially threaded studs, each with a 2 holed paddle welded to one end, atube
clamp in the middle between a standard hex nut and a special 3/4" longhex
nut.I assume the front of the rack either mounts to the trunk hinge (but I
don'tknow how as my hinge uses what looks like a rivet) or to the paddle
endedstuds.I assume the back of the rack either just sits on the the bumper
framebrackets (which would make it scrach the paint when the lid is raised) or
usesthe paddle studs (which then forces the front of the rack to somehow mount
tothe trunk hinge). I have no guesses as to what the protruding little
smoothshafts of the acorn nut assembly are for or where to put the 5" long
strip of1-1/2" rubber.Maybe I'm missing some parts?I was planning to install
the rack today. If anyone has instructions or photosavailable, would they
please e-mail them to me?Thanks!-Dave Murphy,Dearborn MI , SEMAHC'66
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From: Dave Murphy <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 16:49:12 -0400

Thanks Gary.

I think my hinges probably have headless tapered pins rather than rivets, but
finding a way to press those pins out without maring the chrome is goint be
fun.

But at the bottom edge there is too little gap for those paddle ends to fit
without at least snagging the paint on the shroud everytime I shut the lid. An
the bumper looks to be right behind the gap so that the studs on the end of
the paddles looks like it will catch the bumper.

I'm interested in reversing the legs and angling them into the overriders.
Does that obviate the need for attaching the spades to the lower lip?

-Dave

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> From: [email-masked]
> Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 15:43:26 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Luggage Rack
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