Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 21:41:41 -0700

If your cooling system is fully drained you'll need about 2.5 (US) gallons of coolant.  I pour a gallon of (undiluted) 
Prestone in then add distilled water until full, then run up to temp and add more if necessary (or let the radiator 
'bleed' any excess).  I've also been adding Water Wetter for years, but may stop doing that given recent negative info.  
IMO, premixed is a rip-off--I carry water for emergencies.

I just drained my BJ8 after about 25K miles and the coolant was pristine.

Bob

On 6/11/2013 9:26 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> Sorry to bother the group with stuff that has been asked a dozen times but I
> got a brain fart. I did this two years ago. The books say 18 pints of
> antifreeze with out heater. I have a BJ8 with heater. That comes out to more
> than 2 gallons of coolant.  How much coolant is needed with a heater? Are
> there any preferences between Prestone premixed and  the type diluted 50/50?
> Thanks
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

-- 
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Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            [email-masked]

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From: Richard Ewald <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 21:52:48 -0700

Unless you are doing a fresh rebuild, you will need less than 2.5 gallons.
You can never get all the coolant out.
Personally I don't like Prestone, but it is probably fine.
Here is an old professional technician's trick.  Take a fresh bottle of
full strength antifreeze and an empty antifreeze bottle.  Make a mark on
the bottle where the level of the antifreeze is, transfer that mark to the
empty bottle.  Pour 1/2 into the empty bottle, and again mark both of those
levels.  Fill both bottles with water to the upper mark.  You now have 2
gallons of 50/50 mix for less than 2 bottles of 50/50 cost.  Fill your
system and what ever is left over can be used to top up the system.
when you run out, go buy another bottle of full strength, pour to the line
and then fill with water to the second line.
Rick

On Tue, Jun 11, 2013 at 9:26 PM, Richard Kahn <[email-masked]>wrote:

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From: Derek Job <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 07:56:42 +0100

Is this getting all a bit complicated?

Buy some unmixed ant-freeze and mix it with water, anywhere from 30% to 50%
antifreeze will do unless you plan on driving in minus 20 degree
temperatures. Pour it in the radiator until the level is about an inch
below the neck and run the engine. Top up a little if required

Derek

On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 5:52 AM, Richard Ewald <[email-masked]>wrote:

> On Tue, Jun 11, 2013 at 9:26 PM, Richard Kahn <[email-masked]
> >wrote:
>
> > Sorry to bother the group with stuff that has been asked a dozen times
> but
> > I
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

---

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 09:28:03 +0200

It is not as simple as that. There is also the question of inorganic and 
organic anti corrosion additives. In Europe that means that green 
coolant has organic and red/purple coolant has inorganic additives. For 
modern cars you can use the red/purple coolant or the green coolant. You 
cannot mix the two. For older (ca. pre 1990) cars you  should only use 
the green coolant with the organic additives. The red/purple stuff may 
be harmful for the type of seals and gaskets used in older cars.
Why worry about the price of proper coolant? It is cheap and it will 
last at least for two to three years. Anti-freeze has to be mixed with 
demineralized/distilled water and in the end it will cost as much as 
proper coolant. It is also often unknown wat kind of other additives are 
in the anti-freeze, organic or inorganic.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[email-masked]

---

From: Chris Dimmock <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 19:02:15 +1000

Just move to Sydney Australia and you won't need antifreeze in your Healey...
;-)
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> It is not as simple as that. There is also the question of inorganic and
organic anti corrosion additives. In Europe that means that green coolant has
organic and red/purple coolant has inorganic additives. For modern cars you
can use the red/purple coolant or the green coolant. You cannot mix the two.
For older (ca. pre 1990) cars you  should only use the green coolant with the
organic additives. The red/purple stuff may be harmful for the type of seals
and gaskets used in older cars.
> Why worry about the price of proper coolant? It is cheap and it will last at
least for two to three years. Anti-freeze has to be mixed with
demineralized/distilled water and in the end it will cost as much as proper
coolant. It is also often unknown wat kind of other additives are in the
anti-freeze, organic or inorganic.

[email-masked]

---

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 11:17:56 +0200

You would need coolant though. Water only will eventually destroy the 
cooling system. Tap water will cause mineral deposits and in the end 
blockages, demineralized/distilled water will cause corrosion and also 
in the end blockages. Use the proper coolant (from new or rebuilt) and 
you will never have any such issues.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 12-6-2013 11:02, Chris Dimmock schreef:
>> It is not as simple as that. There is also the question of inorganic and organic anti corrosion additives. In Europe that means that green coolant has organic and red/purple coolant has inorganic additives. For modern cars you can use the red/purple coolant or the green coolant. You cannot mix the two. For older (ca. pre 1990) cars you  should only use the green coolant with the organic additives. The red/purple stuff may be harmful for the type of seals and gaskets used in older cars.
>> Why worry about the price of proper coolant? It is cheap and it will last at least for two to three years. Anti-freeze has to be mixed with demineralized/distilled water and in the end it will cost as much as proper coolant. It is also often unknown wat kind of other additives are in the anti-freeze, organic or inorganic.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>>
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-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: [email-masked]

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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From: "Thomas Willig" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 11:20:24 +0200

My advice-learned the hard way : Do not use distilled/demineralised water in
your cooling system.  This stuff is very aggressive and together with cast
iron creates the ideal climate for corrosion. I just had to flush my BN2
engine after running it for one year after a complete rebuild. I used a
mixture of antifreeze and demin water. You will not believe the amount of rust
that came out of this  engine after such a short time. I will now use tap
water  and normal antifreeze. That worked well in the "old" days and
everything else seems to me as "over-engineering".

Cheers

Thomas Willig

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Bob Spidell [mailto:[email-masked]]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 12. Juni 2013 06:42
An: [email-masked]
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze

If your cooling system is fully drained you'll need about 2.5 (US) gallons of
coolant.  I pour a gallon of (undiluted) Prestone in then add distilled water
until full, then run up to temp and add more if necessary (or let the radiator
'bleed' any excess).  I've also been adding Water Wetter for years, but may
stop doing that given recent negative info.
IMO, premixed is a rip-off--I carry water for emergencies.

Bob

On 6/11/2013 9:26 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> but I got a brain fart. I did this two years ago. The books say 18
> pints of antifreeze with out heater. I have a BJ8 with heater. That
> comes out to more than 2 gallons of coolant.  How much coolant is
> needed with a heater? Are there any preferences between Prestone premixed
and  the type diluted 50/50?
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

[email-masked]

---

From: Derek Job <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 10:44:57 +0100

Thomas,

You are correct. There is far too much time spent on worrying about all
kinds of  little things that, given the useage and maintenance levels that
our cars are now subjected to, just don't make a difference in the real
world. You'll be dead before there is any noticeable problem.

Or you can buy modern 'coolant' which seems to cost as much as oil these
days.

Derek

[email-masked]

---

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 11:56:06 +0200

Use proper coolant, the green stuff. It has the inhibitors/additives 
already mixed in together with the antifreeze. Using tap water in a mix 
will cause some deposits that may react.
You do have to replace the coolant periodically, say every three years. 
When doing so always rinse your engine with clean water, tap water will 
do!!, add a can of radiator cleaner, mostly caustic soda, let the engine 
run for a while, drain, rinse thoroughly, drain and refill with coolant.
Whatever you have used in the past, you will be amazed about the amount 
of sediment that will come out. Probably most of it are old deposits 
that have dissolved/come loose, even if you have had your engine 
rebuilt. It is nigh impossible to clean out all deposits during a rebuild.
When you start of with a brand new engine, replacing the coolant without 
flushing the engine usually suffices. Ever saw a modern, well maintained 
car with deposits? I sure never did.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL

[email-masked]

---

From: "Mike Garvey" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 09:20:01 -0400

As a reminder, ethylene glycol based antifreeze not only tastes good (sweet)
to pets and children, it is very toxic.  I am unsure of approved disposal
procedures, but don't leave open containers (or puddles on the driveway).
Mike 
Michael Garvey
1967 BJ8/38046
Swampscott, MA

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 5:56 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze

Use proper coolant, the green stuff. It has the inhibitors/additives already
mixed in together with the antifreeze. Using tap water in a mix will cause
some deposits that may react.
You do have to replace the coolant periodically, say every three years. 
When doing so always rinse your engine with clean water, tap water will
do!!, add a can of radiator cleaner, mostly caustic soda, let the engine run
for a while, drain, rinse thoroughly, drain and refill with coolant.
Whatever you have used in the past, you will be amazed about the amount of
sediment that will come out. Probably most of it are old deposits that have
dissolved/come loose, even if you have had your engine rebuilt. It is nigh
impossible to clean out all deposits during a rebuild.
When you start of with a brand new engine, replacing the coolant without
flushing the engine usually suffices. Ever saw a modern, well maintained car
with deposits? I sure never did.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 12-6-2013 11:20, Thomas Willig schreef:
> My advice-learned the hard way : Do not use distilled/demineralised 
> water in your cooling system.  This stuff is very aggressive and 
> together with cast iron creates the ideal climate for corrosion. I 
> just had to flush my BN2 engine after running it for one year after a 
> complete rebuild. I used a mixture of antifreeze and demin water. You 
> will not believe the amount of rust that came out of this  engine 
> after such a short time. I will now use tap water  and normal 
> antifreeze. That worked well in the "old" days and everything else seems
to me as "over-engineering".
> Thomas Willig
$12.75

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