From Lance Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 05:13:16 -0500 Subject: bn1 for sale From Blue One Hundred Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 02:15:42 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Anti-roll bar apples & oranges That comment was definitely uncalled for. I was trying to help with the original question. Alan --- Dave & Marlene wrote: > Alan, > > I am very happy for you. > > Dave Russell > > Blue One Hundred wrote: > > Dave - > > > > Rather than me trying to figure out the physics of > it > > all, maybe I should just say that Cape's rose > jointed > > anti roll bar (with poly chassis bushings), added > to > > my BJ8 with standard springs & standard > suspension, > > makes the car handle in tight curves significantly > > better that with the stock bar. I am using 10 > year > > old 185/70R15 radials (Riken) mounted on 15x5.5" > rims. > > > > I am not racing the car, so I cannot speak for > pushing > > the car to the edge in every turn, but indications > are > > that it would perform better here also.... as the > car > > holds even when my gut tells me that if the car > had > > the old set up I would have lost it. > > > > I also use a jaguar/girling rear disk brake set up > on > > the car which narrows the rear track by about .5" > in > > total, don't know if that helps or hurts. > > > > The only other thing which I think would help here > is > > not playing with the spring rate, but possibly > putting > > on a gas shock kit on the front, as that would > help to > > keep the tires from losing contact with the road > in a > > rough patch. > > > > The next thing will be for me to put the old > anti-roll > > bar from my BJ8 onto my BN1, which has the > original > > paper-clip diameter anti roll bar set up on it! > > > > Cheers, > > > > Alan > > > > '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim) Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 11:47:40 +0100 Subject: What are beanie babies? WAS: Check this out - Life on E-Bay Thank you Martin Germany ----- Original Message ----- > Quote: > > > The amazing thing is that the counter indicates that 765,377 people visted > > the site. > > Endquote > > and the darn litle critters are pushing $1000 on the bid, that is a lot of > tools and beer, or Healey parts for that matter, hilarious listing, I > laughed out loud. Diabolical plot or joe six pack trying to unload some > small stuffed critters? read and decide for yourself > > For those that don't know I believe E-bay started out as a beenie baby > online auction thing, now is a great source for hard to find British car > parts, or pretty much anything else, so maybe it is kind of Helaey From "Charley Braum" Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 07:54:15 -0500 Subject: Re: Check this out - Life on E-Bay - Delete if not Hard to believe, but look at his e-Bay 'record', no negatives, with the most interesting comments. CB From SMickel950 at aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 08:20:49 EST Subject: Reversed eBay Listing Steve http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2440674528&category=29753 From "HoYo" Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 09:14:18 -0600 Subject: Friday fun (2) I don't suffer from insanity; I enjoy every minute of it. (3) I Work Hard Because Millions On Welfare Depend on Me! (4) Some people are alive only because it's illegal to kill them. (5) I used to have a handle on life, but it broke. (6) Don't take life too seriously .......... no one gets out alive. (7) You're just jealous because the voices only talk to me. (8) Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder. (9) Earth is the insane asylum for the universe. (10) Quoting one is plagiarism; quoting many is research. (11) I'm not a complete idiot - some parts are missing. (12) Out of my mind. Back in five minutes. (13) NyQuil - The stuffy, sneezy, why-the-heck-is-the-room-spinning medicine. (14) God must love stupid people; he made so many. (15) The gene pool could use a little chlorine. (16) It IS as BAD as you think and they ARE out to get you. (17) Consciousness: that annoying time between naps. (18) Ever stop to think, and forget to start again? (19) MOP AND GLOW - Floor wax used by Three Mile Island cleanup team. (20) Being "over the hill" is much better than being under it! (21) Wrinkled Was Not One Of The Things I Wanted To Be When I Grew Up. (22) Procrastinate Now. (23) My Dog Can Lick Anyone. (24) I Have a Degree in Liberal Arts - Do You Want Fries With That? (25) FAILURE IS NOT AN OPTION. It comes bundled with the software. (26) A hangover is the wrath of grapes. (27) A journey of a thousand miles begins with a cash advance. (28) STUPIDITY IS NOT A HANDICAP. Park elsewhere! (29) They call it PMS because Mad Cow Disease was already taken (ouch!!!) (30) He who dies with the most toys is nonetheless dead. (31) A PICTURE IS WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS, but it uses up three thousand times the memory. (32) HAM AND EGGS - A day's work for a chicken, a lifetime commitment for a pig. (33) The trouble with life is there's no background music. (34) The original point and click interface was a Smith &Wesson. (35) Avenge Yourself - Live Long Enough To Be A Burden To Your Kids. ese i'm sure but some are new.....HoYo From WhoCares56 at aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 10:50:58 EST Subject: Re: bn1 for sale > healeys@autox.team.net I went to the listed web site and found neither picture nor text. Is it just me? Carroll BN1 #484 From "tom felts" Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 11:41:00 -0500 Subject: Part Needed Thanks in advance for any help. Tom From WilKo at aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 13:18:59 EST Subject: Re: Reversed eBay Listing In a message dated 11/1/03 5:23:08 AM, SMickel950@aol.com writes: > I thought this was a pretty smart and really cheap worldwide "auto wanted" > advertisement. Wish I'd thought of that. From WilKo at aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 13:24:24 EST Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20What=20are=20beanie=20babies=3F=A0=20WAS:=20?= In a message dated 11/1/03 3:02:17 AM, hm.heim@t-online.de writes: > Hi all, > would please someone explain to me what's all that fuss about "beanie > babies"? To my knowledge of the English languauge is bean something to eat > and well baby beans.... ? I got, that these are some collectible stuffed > animals. > > Thank you > > Martin > Germany From Dave & Marlene Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 11:34:38 -0700 Subject: Re: Anti-roll bar apples & oranges I just didn't know what else to say. But since you persist; Anyone who is using ten year old tires is in a poor position to judge suspension performance. Old tires are notorious for hardening & "losing their grip" as well as not being very safe. They lose so much grip that real suspension tuning is nearly impossible. Once again, glad that you are satisfied with things, but do be careful. Dave Russell BN2 Blue One Hundred wrote: > Dave - > > That comment was definitely uncalled for. I was > trying to help with the original question. > > Alan > > --- Dave & Marlene wrote: > >>Alan, >> >>I am very happy for you. >> >>Dave Russell >> >>Blue One Hundred wrote: >> >>>Dave - >>> >>>Rather than me trying to figure out the physics of >> >>it >> >>>all, maybe I should just say that Cape's rose >> >>jointed >> >>>anti roll bar (with poly chassis bushings), added >> >>to >> >>>my BJ8 with standard springs & standard >> >>suspension, >> >>>makes the car handle in tight curves significantly >>>better that with the stock bar. I am using 10 >> >>year >> >>>old 185/70R15 radials (Riken) mounted on 15x5.5" >> >>rims. From "tom felts" Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 13:37:29 -0500 Subject: RE: Fw: Check this out - Life on E-Bay > [Original Message] > From: Healeyolic > To: Healey List > Date: 10/31/03 9:37:52 PM > Subject: Fw: Check this out - Life on E-Bay > > OK. This has absolutely no Healey content. It is Friday and I believe the rules allow this kind of thing. For any of you who have accessed eBay and have time, please read through the entire listing. It is a hoot. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ From Simonlachlan at aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 13:40:38 EST Subject: Re: Anti-roll bar apples & oranges > just didn't know what else to say. But since you persist; > > Anyone who is using ten year old tires is in a poor position to judge > suspension performance. Old tires are notorious for hardening &"losing > their grip" as well as not being very safe. They lose so much grip that > real suspension tuning is nearly impossible. > > Once again, glad that you are satisfied with things, but do be careful. > I've just finished reading The "Motoring Section" in our, UK, Daily Telegraph. Apparently, tyres will soon all have to carry a date of manufacture; more than 5 yrs old will get a failure in MOT, our annual Ministry of Transport roadworthiness test. Simon. From "tom felts" Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 14:00:19 -0500 Subject: FW: RE: Part Needed Thanks tom > > > > [Original Message] > > From: tom felts > > To: > > Date: 11/1/03 11:41:25 AM > > Subject: Part Needed > > > > Anyone have any BJ8 generator parts you want to sell? I need the pully > > piece (with the fins attached) and the two-eared end cap that sits directly > > behind the pully. > > > > Thanks in advance for any help. From john.quinn at comcast.net Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 19:31:30 +0000 Subject: FS on eBay: '62 Sprite Project car, new reduced reserve price 1 hour, 40 min to go! From john.quinn at comcast.net Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 19:45:47 +0000 Subject: FS on eBay: '62 Sprite Project car, new reduced reserve price http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2439504357&category=6023 1 hour, 40 min to go! From James Albeck Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 12:50:35 -0800 Subject: Must Sell BJ7 From SMickel950 at aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 17:41:11 EST Subject: Re: bn1 for sale Steve In a message dated 11/1/2003 7:53:59 AM Pacific Standard Time, WhoCares56@aol.com writes: > I went to the listed web site and found neither picture nor text. Is it > just > me? From SHOMWAY at aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 18:02:52 EST Subject: Re: bn1 for sale << > I went to the listed web site and found neither picture nor text. Is it > just > me? >> Here is the link to the site for the BN1....I didnt have a problem. Lance's Healey From "Scott H." Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 18:25:10 -0500 Subject: Seeking BN4 Locking Door Latch I'm looking for a locking passenger door latch for an early BN4 for a friend. If anyone has one laying around the garage with no purpose in life, please contact me. Much thanks, Scott Helms From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 18:41:52 -0500 Subject: 100M ignition A Pertronix unit is in place and throws a great regular spark. I have replaced all ignition wires, the cap, rotor, coil, etc. Will not start. I've tried a couple times to re-set the timing by finding No. 1 TDC using the procedures in the manual (#8 and #7 valves just 'rock' or swap over. According to the Service Manual, you are supposed to realign the distributor so that the points are fully open, and the rotor points to the #1 electrode position. I've used the discarded 'cam rider' part of the points to rotate the disty until rider is at the high point of the cam lobe. 1. When I do this, the rotor points several degrees right (CCW) of the electrode #1 electrode (at least 15 degrees by estimation). Is this correct? 2. If this is a problem, can I overcome it by withdrawing the distributor and rotating until the lobe is aligned with the electrode before reinserting? Any advise would help. Thanks. Allen miller From Dave & Marlene Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 18:45:01 -0700 Subject: Re: 100M ignition Allen C. Miller, Jr. wrote: > I have been having difficulties in getting the M to start since I renovated > the gas tank. The fuel delivery seems okay, and I am beginning to suspect a > problem with the distributor. Did the car start & run before you renovated the gas tank? Did the car ever run with the pertronix? I ask because you said that it wouldnt start after the gas tank work & I don't see how this is related to the ignition. > A Pertronix unit is in place and throws a great regular spark. I have replaced > all ignition wires, the cap, rotor, coil, etc. Will not start. I've tried a > couple times to re-set the timing by finding No. 1 TDC using the procedures in > the manual (#8 and #7 valves just 'rock' or swap over. According to the > Service Manual, you are supposed to realign the distributor so that the points > are fully open, and the rotor points to the #1 electrode position. I've used > the discarded 'cam rider' part of the points to rotate the disty until rider > is at the high point of the cam lobe. This should get things in the ballpark. If the points are fully open at TDC it means that they started to open somewhat before TDC which would give some initial advance. It is very hard to find exact TDC this way but should get things close enough for the engine to start. > 1. When I do this, the rotor points several degrees right (CCW) of the > electrode #1 electrode (at least 15 degrees by estimation). Is this correct? I don't know if it is a problem. The Pertronix can be a PITA to set timing on the first time. You should be able to rotate the distributor body clockwise to advance the timing to the point of starting. Too much advance will cause kick back against the starter. If the vacuum advance line & wiring won't allow turning the distributor body far enough, see below. > 2. If this is a problem, can I overcome it by withdrawing the distributor and > rotating until the lobe is aligned with the electrode before reinserting? You can withdraw the distributor far enough to free it's driving gear & turn the rotor to any position. Due to the helical drive gear on the distributor, the rotor will rotate a considerable amount as the unit is pushed down to full gear engagement. You have to allow for this by the pre gear engagement position so that the rotor ends up in the desired location when fully seated. > Any advise would help. > > Thanks. Allen miller > I hope that this is clearer than mud. Dave Russell BN2 From MBran89793 at aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 21:09:54 EST Subject: Re: Seeking BN4 Locking Door Latch > I'm looking for a locking passenger door latch for an early BN4 for a > friend. > If you are looking for an exterior door handle like the drivers side which had a key lock, look no further. The passanger door handle did not have a key lock on the exterior handle. Marion S. Brantley, Jr. Concours Committee Member From "Rick" Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 20:12:10 -0600 Subject: Re: bn1 for sale <Lance's Healey >> And just plain put the actual LINK in, it will ALWAYS (99%) work. NOT the Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 22:02:26 -0500 Subject: Re: 100M ignition Are you really sure the fuel is getting into the float chambers and through the carbs into the cylinders? If there was a sniff of gas in there and a spark at around TDC on compression it would be at least backfiring. Check to see if the plugs are wet or you can smell gas in the cylinders. In (1) below are you taking about the main rotor arm center line angle or the tip of the brass contact which precedes it going CW? With conventional points the spark occurs as the points open, so you would be even further advanced than you are now at cam peak. It depends when the Pertronix actually fires from it's sensor signal relative to the rotor position. Maybe you can rotate the crank with the ignition on to see when it sparks at the plug, relative to the pulley timing marks and TDC. You can do that with the Crane systems which have an LED that lights up. You can change the position of the rotor relative to TDC by turning and re-engaging the distributor shaft with the camshaft but the position of the rotor relative to the distributor cam is fixed by rotor arm engagement peg. If you look at the engine pictures in the shop manual you can see the distributor position by the vacuum unit angle and this effectively fixed the position of the points assembly. The distributor shaft had to be engaged so the rotor and cam worked with #1 when it was on TDC compression (valves 7 and 8 rocking but I would check TDC from the #1 piston through the plug hole). It seems you are either far advanced or are not getting gas to the plugs. Let us know what you find. regards, Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: Allen C. Miller, Jr. To: 'Healeys' Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2003 6:41 PM Subject: 100M ignition > I have been having difficulties in getting the M to start since I renovated > the gas tank. The fuel delivery seems okay, and I am beginning to suspect a > problem with the distributor. > > A Pertronix unit is in place and throws a great regular spark. I have replaced > all ignition wires, the cap, rotor, coil, etc. Will not start. I've tried a > couple times to re-set the timing by finding No. 1 TDC using the procedures in > the manual (#8 and #7 valves just 'rock' or swap over. According to the > Service Manual, you are supposed to realign the distributor so that the points > are fully open, and the rotor points to the #1 electrode position. I've used > the discarded 'cam rider' part of the points to rotate the disty until rider > is at the high point of the cam lobe. > > 1. When I do this, the rotor points several degrees right (CCW) of the > electrode #1 electrode (at least 15 degrees by estimation). Is this correct? > > 2. If this is a problem, can I overcome it by withdrawing the distributor and > rotating until the lobe is aligned with the electrode before reinserting? > > Any advise would help. > > Thanks. Allen miller From bj8healey at juno.com Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 12:14:45 -0500 Subject: Re: Re: Top Installation Video for BJ8: Thanks for info. I haven't received the videos yet but I believe you. Steve Byers sent me detailed instructions on how he installed his top. Alan Schultz and John Stevens sent me written instructions that came with tops they had purchased from another source than I did. I thank them all, as well as the folks who offered to loan the tapes. Rob Fromm bj8healey@juno.com Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 21:05:29 -0600 From: "Tim Davis" Subject: Re: Top Installation Video for BJ8 British Car Specialties rents these although the section describing the top installation leaves much to be desired. I would not feel confident installing a soft top using the tape as my only instruction. ________________________________________________________________ From HLYDOC at aol.com Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 12:27:54 EST Subject: Re: Seeking BN4 Locking Door Latch ************************** Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a message board for your convience as well as several other changes. David Nock President/Service Manager British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton Calif. 95205 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com Visit our new web site at BritishCarSpecialists.com ======================================== Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From "scott willis" Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 11:55:57 -0600 Subject: Re: Fw: Check this out - Life on E-Bay Cheers, Scott 1960 BN7 59 MGA 73 Bonnie >From: Healeyolic >Reply-To: Healeyolic >To: Healey List >Subject: Fw: Check this out - Life on E-Bay >Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 21:36:27 -0500 > >OK. This has absolutely no Healey content. It is Friday and I believe the >rules allow this kind of thing. For any of you who have accessed eBay and >have time, please read through the entire listing. It is a hoot. > >John Sims, BN6 >Aberdeen, NJ > > >http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3146042998 > _________________________________________________________________ Send instant messages to anyone on your contact list with MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From "HoYo" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 13:06:48 -0600 Subject: Re: Seeking BN4 Locking Door Latch > The right door latch on the early BN$ is very rare, it has a lock on the > inside and usually is broken. There is a small lever inside the door that > locks > the latch and if you pull on the outside door handle it breaks. Is this the > one > that you are looking for?????? > > > > ************************** > > Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You > can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a > message board for your convience as well as several other changes. > > David Nock > President/Service Manager > British Car Specialists > 2060 N Wilson Way > Stockton Calif. 95205 > 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com > Visit our new web site at > BritishCarSpecialists.com > ======================================== > Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph. From "Tim Davis" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 15:10:41 -0600 Subject: New Subject Thanks Tim Davis BN7 From "Rick &7& Neves" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 16:14:16 -0500 Subject: Rear spring - shackle pins - How do you loosen these thing up? Anyone got any tricks on how to free these up? How important is it to get them loose? Won't they just loosen with time?? Sincerely Rick Neves '56 BN-2 &7& --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.535 / Virus Database: 330 - Release Date: 11/01/2003 From "Chris Masucci" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 15:30:51 -0600 Subject: Re: Rear spring - shackle pins - How do you loosen these thing Free up...not really. Sabre saw or air cutoff tool, fire, new bushings, and new shackles. I suppose if you waited to tighten everything up until the car is back on the ground in the loaded position, it would probably be fine. You should do that anyway whenever working with metal sleeved rubber bushings. However, if the shackles are rusted into the metal sleeve in the bushing, you have to ask how much longer the rubber bushings are going last anyway. Cheers, Chris BJ8 > > Anyone got any tricks on how to free these up? How important is it to get them > loose? Won't they just loosen with time?? > Sincerely > > > Rick Neves > '56 BN-2 From MBran89793 at aol.com From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 16:37:27 EST Subject: Re: Rear spring - shackle pins - How do you loosen these thing Marion S. Brantley, Jr. Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club Membership Chmn. & Delegate 727/867-7129 From "Michael Salter" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 16:43:32 -0500 Subject: RE: New Subject Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Davis Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 4:11 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: New Subject OK since very few subscribers are unwilling to comment on top bow questions I'll offer this one. My horn was working intermitently and when I removed the center button one of the two screws in the contact plate was loose and had obviously lost its keeper (nut). Before I delve further into the trafficator can anyone offer advice? I am assuming this screw was used to hold a wire in place, right? Thanks Tim Davis BN7 From Rich Holman From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 13:52:04 -0800 (PST) Subject: Nice Austin Healey comments This months cover story in Thoroughbred & Classic Cars magazine is "The 30 Best Classic Cars". The source was a reader survey. Austin Healey came in at number 5. Some very nice words to go with the photo. Rich 57 BN4 __________________________________ Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears http://launch.yahoo.com/promos/britneyspears/ From "Michael Salter" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 16:50:38 -0500 Subject: RE: Rear spring - shackle pins - How do you loosen these thing Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick &7& Neves Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 4:14 PM To: Healey Mailig list (E-mail) Subject: Rear spring - shackle pins - How do you loosen these thing up? I am reinstalling the rear leaf springs on my BN-2 and I cannot seem to get the shackle pins to move within the iron bushings. The shackles will rotate when the outer nuts are loosened and that allowed me to get the springs in position. However, during the installation, it was clear that the shackle pins were frozen inside the iron bushings. Anyone got any tricks on how to free these up? How important is it to get them loose? Won't they just loosen with time?? Sincerely Rick Neves '56 BN-2 &7& From "Michael Salter" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 16:53:07 -0500 Subject: RE: Seeking BN4 Locking Door Latch Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HoYo Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 2:07 PM To: HLYDOC@aol.com; austrheamgafun@arczip.com; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Seeking BN4 Locking Door Latch Sounds like the little lever on my '60 Morris Minor......'course the passenger side is the one w/the key lock as it's the 'driver's' side over 'ere....... HoYo From "Michael Salter" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 16:59:49 -0500 Subject: RE: Seeking BN4 Locking Door Latch -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HoYo Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 2:07 PM To: HLYDOC@aol.com; austrheamgafun@arczip.com; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Seeking BN4 Locking Door Latch Sounds like the little lever on my '60 Morris Minor......'course the passenger side is the one w/the key lock as it's the 'driver's' side over 'ere....... HoYo From "BJ8Healeys" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 19:23:54 -0500 Subject: Looking for NY Times Healey article Does anyone still have the link to the article from 24 October in the NY Times about the Healey? I inadvertently deleted the reference. Thanks very much, Steve Byers Havelock, NC From Douglas W Flagg From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 19:53:02 -0500 Subject: Re:Jack Handle Happy Healeying, Doug ________________________________________________________________ From "BJ8Healeys" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 20:13:37 -0500 Subject: re: NY Times article Happy Healeying! Steve Byers Havelock, NC From Blue One Hundred From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 17:43:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Anti-roll bar apples & oranges Anyone who makes a tire that becomes inherently "unsafe" after five years of use should not be manufacturing tires and should be sued for negligence. Any decent tire should last at least 10 years, with moderate use, as long as the tread is good. So, now you won't get your MOT unless you change your tires every five years. Do you suppose Dunlop... or ultimately Sumitomo... supported or was against this legislation? It's obvious what the answer is. What better way to sell more tires... MANY more. It's no suprise that Dunlop, err Sumitomo, would support (or even push through) something like this - Japan is the only country in the world that has a forced retirement system for all cars on the road - a government scam to support the domestic Japanese car industry. This reminds me of the "Environmental" regulations they passed in California 10 years ago to get all gas stations to replace their old undergroud fuel tanks - it was in fact legislation supported by the major oil companies to force all the independant gas stations in California out of business (because most of them could not affort the fuel storge tank replcement cost + ensuing loss of business while being replaced). Very cunning indeed. Regards, Alan '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 --- Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 01/11/2003 18:36:12 GMT Standard > Time, rusd@velocitus.net > writes: > > > just didn't know what else to say. But since you > persist; > > > > Anyone who is using ten year old tires is in a > poor position to judge > > suspension performance. Old tires are notorious > for hardening &"losing > > their grip" as well as not being very safe. They > lose so much grip that > > real suspension tuning is nearly impossible. > > > > Once again, glad that you are satisfied with > things, but do be careful. > > > > I've just finished reading The "Motoring Section" in > our, UK, Daily > Telegraph. Apparently, tyres will soon all have to > carry a date of manufacture; more > than 5 yrs old will get a failure in MOT, our annual > Ministry of Transport > roadworthiness test. > Simon. From "Greg Lemon" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 21:41:31 -0600 Subject: Re: Nice Austin Healey comments Also Interesting, the MGB made top 5 in both lists (30 best and 30 worst). Happy Healeying Greg Lemon 54 BN1 > FYI > > This months cover story in Thoroughbred & Classic Cars > magazine is "The 30 Best Classic Cars". The source > was a reader survey. Austin Healey came in at number > 5. Some very nice words to go with the photo. > > Rich > 57 BN4 > > __________________________________ From "Keith Pennell" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 23:13:31 -0500 Subject: Re: Top Bow I have made two, one for my BN7 and one for a possible future resto. I used good one from a BT7 as a pattern although they are supposedly not the same. After considerable homework was never able to determine the difference. The Al piece I was using was also from a BT7 so I figured making a BT7 bow would be OK. Both turned out beautifully if I do say so myself. Made both out of poplar. Easily workably and it's what I had on hand in the needed side. I do have slight air leak at speed in the middle 2 feet though. Anyone tell me the difference in the BT7 and BN7 bows? Keith Pennell > The top bow on my BN7 is not usable and I was wondering (before I buy one) if > anyone on the list has made one. If so what wood and any advice? > > Thanks > Tim Davis BN7 From "Keith Pennell" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 23:23:19 -0500 Subject: Re: New Subject When the traficator is lined up properly the left hand screw attaches the eyelet from the Br/Black wire from the horns to the left hand Cu piece. When the button is pushed it completes the circuit to the right hand Cu piece which is connected to a brass ring beneath (you cannot see it without traf disassembly) by the screw you see on the right. This brass ring is in contact with the traf metal housing which of course is grounded to the stator tube and other stuff, thus completing the circuit and the horn blows. It sounds like the attachment of your hot wire has come loose from the left had screw. Will require disassembly of the traf. Not difficult at all as long as all you need to do is reconnect the wire. > OK since very few subscribers are unwilling to comment on top bow questions > I'll offer this one. > My horn was working intermitently and when I removed the center button one of > the two screws in the contact plate was loose and had obviously lost its > keeper (nut). Before I delve further into the trafficator can anyone offer > advice? I am assuming this screw was used to hold a wire in place, right? > > Thanks > > Tim Davis BN7 From Healeyolic From: To: ; Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 23:40:03 -0500 Subject: Help I am trying to find Powdered Casein Glue for a project I am working on. Any ideas? Thanks John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ From "Reid Trummel" From: To: ; Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 04:58:59 +0000 Subject: FOR SALE: Several Good Things! A King Dick Adjustable Spanner: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=35625&item=2440918589 Sales Brochure for 3000 Mark II: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3635760001&category=1319 Sales Brochure for 100-6: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3635763379&category=1319 Set of 3 very rare early Healey sales literature items: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3635772890&category=1319 3 rare Lucas "Flamethrower" driving lights: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34207&item=2440955461 Reid Trummel Portland, Oregon 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master _________________________________________________________________ Send instant messages to anyone on your contact list with MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From Blue One Hundred From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 21:05:39 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Nice Austin Healey comments Did you notice MGB was both on the best of all time list, and also on worst of all time list? Very funny indeed. Spunky sports car or gutless wonder? I sold my US-spec '79 MGB because it was the latter! Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Rich Holman wrote: > FYI > > This months cover story in Thoroughbred & Classic > Cars > magazine is "The 30 Best Classic Cars". The source > was a reader survey. Austin Healey came in at > number > 5. Some very nice words to go with the photo. > > Rich > 57 BN4 From Dave & Marlene From: To: ; Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 22:14:15 -0700 Subject: Re: Nice Austin Healey comments Perceived by who? I suspect that there are thousands more TR & MG owners than Big Healey owners. they are much more available & cost less, makes them desirable. A Ferrari is desirable, but not many people really consider buying one. Many of the general public have never even seen a Healey or know much about it, as it is becoming nearly a cult car in the overall scheme of such things. The new younger breed of LBC owners gravitate to that which is easily available & cheap to restore. Neither applies to a Healey. The healeys seem to go more for originality than the other cars, this turns off many younger hotrodders who want a customizable car to put their own personality stamp on without ruining it's value. Easier to do with a $4,000 to $10,00o car than a Big Healey in the $20,000 to $30,000 range & above. Times are changing. Greg Lemon wrote: >the healey has usually > been perceived as the more popular and desireable car. > > Also Interesting, the MGB made top 5 in both lists (30 best and 30 worst). > > Happy Healeying > Greg Lemon > 54 BN1 From "Esko & Megan Cate" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 21:49:28 -0800 Subject: Trick to install BJ7 grill surround? Esko BJ7 From joe mulqueen From: To: ; Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 23:59:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: re. Rear spring - shackle pins - How do you loosen these thing Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 16:14:16 -0500 From: "Rick &7& Neves" Subject: Rear spring - shackle pins - How do you loosen these thing up? ...I cannot seem to get the shackle pins to move within the iron bushings............Anyone got any tricks on how to free these up? Rick Neves '56 BN-2 __________________________________ Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears http://launch.yahoo.com/promos/britneyspears/ from personal experience I can vouch that old tyres really do harden and end From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 12:45:16 -0000 Subject: RE: Anti-roll bar apples & oranges To cut to the point - I couldn't find a date on the old carcases but the treads and sidewalls all looked excellent. On my 'tin-top' tyres are all used up in two years. A five year swop out on the Healey makes good sense to me. Alan Bromfield '65 BJ8 - five-footer. '57 BN4 - Project http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.bromfield/ -----Original Message----- From: Simonlachlan@aol.com [mailto:Simonlachlan@aol.com] Sent: 01 November 2003 18:41 I've just finished reading The "Motoring Section" in our, UK, Daily Telegraph. Apparently, tyres will soon all have to carry a date of manufacture; more than 5 yrs old will get a failure in MOT, our annual Ministry of Transport roadworthiness test. Simon. Sorry about the rubbish below here - I'm in work (Monday midday) The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal attention of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract. ntl Group Limited From Alan Bromfield From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 13:10:33 -0000 Subject: RE: Nice Austin Healey comments It does raise the question of where the next generation of AH owners might come from. I am the young and sprightly member of the club at 53 hence my more flexible approach to rebuilding. I modified cars in the late sixties for performance and handling - Anglias/Cortinas/Escorts. Where are the 40 year olds with good toy money that will inherit these motors that are currently held in trust for future generations? How do we generate the aspiration for these cars that will fuel their future maintenance? It could be a worry. Alan Bromfield '65 BJ8 - five-footer. '57 BN4 - Project http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.bromfield/ -----Original Message----- From: Dave & Marlene [mailto:rusd@velocitus.net] Sent: 03 November 2003 05:14 To: Greg Lemon Cc: Rich Holman; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Nice Austin Healey comments The new younger breed of LBC owners gravitate to that which is easily available & cheap to restore. Neither applies to a Healey. The healeys seem to go more for originality than the other cars, this turns off many younger hotrodders who want a customizable car to put their own personality stamp on without ruining it's value. Easier to do with a $4,000 to $10,00o car than a Big Healey in the $20,000 to $30,000 range & above. Times are changing. The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal attention of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract. ntl Group Limited From "James Lea" From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 09:42:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Help http://www.constantines.com/ James Lea Pres. MMSCC Rockport Me. 04856 1962 BT7 II From Scot Paulson From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 10:37:37 -0500 Subject: Re: Nice Austin Healey comments From: Scot Paulson, 70633,434 To: Dave & Marlene, INTERNET:rusd@velocitus.net Date: 11/3/2003 7:31 AM RE: Re: Nice Austin Healey comments Message text written by Dave & Marlene >The new younger breed of LBC owners gravitate to that which is easily available & cheap to restore. Neither applies to a Healey. The healeys seem to go more for originality than the other cars, this turns off many younger hotrodders who want a customizable car to put their own personality stamp on without ruining it's value.< I can remember this very phenomenon happening about 35 years ago or so when a "kid" came over and bought my Dad's '57 Chevy. A Dad buys the car,the younger "Hotrodder" buys the car from him to customize,and Dads buys it back years later to restore it back to original. Very interesting! Scot '66 BJ8 From Scot Paulson From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 10:54:30 -0500 Subject: RE: Nice Austin Healey comments Reid Trummel wrote a great article on this very subject in Austin Healey magazine about a year ago. I'm one of those lucky 40 year olds who can now afford(did not inherit) that dream car and feel fortunate. I think we need to keeping taking these wonderful machines to car shows(not just British) every chance we get. Also, take a kid or young adult in your neighborhood for a ride! I do this for my 10 year old old and his friends frequently. In addition to generating interest in a future Healey owner, it's just fun for me to see the grin on those little faces! Scot '66 BJ8 From Blue One Hundred From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 08:45:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: RE: Anti-roll bar apples & oranges Thanks for your comments. My Rikens have had not had appreciable change in grip, braking or handling since new. I will probably replace them soon, but frankly they've never gone flat, blown out, and they grip as good as new. I still have about 60% of the tread. Wheels/Tires in perfect balance ... Depends on the tire (+ good running balance/true of the front end & shocks) and from my experience the Japanese seem to use alot less natural latex in their tires. I do not race the car and I keep the car in very good running condition. My comment about "big brother" was basically a response to a specific person on this list who seems to think it is ok to slam me on the list, specifically for: 1) Expressing a slightly different opinion, grounded in personal experience (rather than what is written on the web somewhere) 2) Trying to help this same person out and getting shit for it 3) Trying to give my personal experience on the matter when asked, by this same person, then getting shit / condescending remarks for it 4) Trying to help this person understand some articles on the web and what they meant... and getting shit for it 5) Being called, in so many words, a moron for running tires that are older than five years - yet bizzarly enough (to put things in context) this same person seems quite ok with the idea that driving (or even racing) a 40 to 50 year old car is a perfectly sane and rational thing to do. I have never been condescending to anyone on this list, and choose not to be. Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Alan Bromfield wrote: > Hey chaps. > This at first glance sounds like 'Big > Brother'interfering again. However > from personal experience I can vouch that old tyres > really do harden and end > up with very little grip. I spent some time chasing > brake problems on my > BJ8 with wheels locking and sliding far too easily > for my comfort. I was at > the same time chasing a scuttle shake at 60 that no > amount of rebalancing > would shift. In desparation I put a new set of > boots on her (Firestones) - > result, a transformation. Smooth ride and brakes > that work beautifully. > She really digs her toes in now. > > To cut to the point - I couldn't find a date on the > old carcases but the > treads and sidewalls all looked excellent. On my > 'tin-top' tyres are all > used up in two years. A five year swop out on the > Healey makes good sense > to me. > > > Alan Bromfield > '65 BJ8 - five-footer. > '57 BN4 - Project > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.bromfield/ From "John Snyder" From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 09:26:52 -0800 Subject: Re: Trick to install BJ7 grill surround? John Snyder Three tri-carb MK2 3000s > What's the trick to get the grill and surround installed? Does the surround come in from the back? Should the air deflectors be out or just loosened? Does it matter whether the bumper is on or not? Thanks. Esko BJ7 From "James Lea" From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 13:14:51 -0500 Subject: Re: Nice Austin Healey comments James Lea Pres. MMSCC Rockport Me. 04856 1962 BT7 II From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 13:39:11 -0600 Subject: Part Hunting Thanks, Mark, 58-MGA 60-MGA 76-MGB 74.5-MGBGT 60-BT7 From "Patton Dickson" From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 13:44:49 -0600 Subject: Youth and Healey's (WAS:RE: Nice Austin Healey comments) I have been in love with Healeys since I was 14 or 15. Of course at that age, a Big Healey was unobtainable, but I could afford a spare body Sprite with my lawn-mowing money. That car was my "training car" when it came to British cars in general. I tore the engine down and rebuilt it myself, plus did a very shabby job of restoring the body. I tackled the mysteries of Lucas and SU with the vigor and enthusiasm of youth. I had no guidance, only few manuals, but I was willing to try anything with the books. For the most part I didn't do any real damage, and I learned a lot in the process. (I am much more hesitant to "just do it" now that there are experts to ask!) After a few of years working on it... I drove the Sprite as my daily driver in my Sr Summer of high school and the first couple of years in college (ever see 8 people going down the road in and on a Sprite!!!). I parked it when it came time to get a real car when I was 20, but after several of years of the car's abandonment, I finally became interested in the car again. I moved to Dallas (at 30), and luckily found NTAHC. The help I got for my Sprite from those guys was immeasurable, and it lit the fire for Healey's again. I have moved and been transferred a couple of times since then, selling the Sprite before moving from Jackson, MS to Houston in Feb 2001. As many of you know, I finally felt that I could jump at my dream and get a Big Healey as I have always wanted. Last month, after a few months of searching, a 100-6 has claimed its spot in my garage. This car is not a show winner, but it is a strong running, solid example, and it's mine. The passion for Healey's is as strong as ever, and if the parts had gotten here last Friday to fix the damaged exhaust, I would be driving it to the Gulf Coast Healey meeting next Saturday. If it were not for the experiences with that Sprite, I am sure that I would have never gotten the big Healey. I would have been sucked up into the muscle cars or something else a little more mainstream. Later the support I got with my Sprite when I was a member of the NTAHC, solidified that passion. Patton Healey owner for 17 of his 34 years. http://carport.virtualave.net/ http://austin-healeys.com COMING SOON!!! -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scot Paulson Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 9:55 AM To: Alan Bromfield; healey list Subject: RE: Nice Austin Healey comments Reid Trummel wrote a great article on this very subject in Austin Healey magazine about a year ago. I'm one of those lucky 40 year olds who can now afford(did not inherit) that dream car and feel fortunate. I think we need to keeping taking these wonderful machines to car shows(not just British) every chance we get. Also, take a kid or young adult in your neighborhood for a ride! I do this for my 10 year old old and his friends frequently. In addition to generating interest in a future Healey owner, it's just fun for me to see the grin on those little faces! Scot '66 BJ8 From "Jaap Aeckerlin" From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 21:58:54 +0100 Subject: Re: Date code on tyres at least in Europe there is a date code on tyres. In the manufacturing period 1990-1999 it was a three digit code, consisting of week number + last year digit: 468 = week 46, 1998. To distinguish from previous ten-year periods the code was followed by a triangle. From 2000 onwards the manufacturing date is shown as four digits: 1201 = week 12 of 2001. Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands ----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Anti-roll bar apples & oranges > > To cut to the point - I couldn't find a date on the old carcases but the > treads and sidewalls all looked excellent. On my 'tin-top' tyres are all > used up in two years. A five year swop out on the Healey makes good sense > to me. > > > Alan Bromfield From "James Lea" From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 16:01:44 -0500 Subject: Re: Nice Austin Healey comments From Steven Tjepkema From: To: ; Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 17:19:24 -0500 Subject: Flasher relay From "Bob Brown" From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 16:32:44 -0600 Subject: Fwd: The Happy Wanderers From Rebeltown at aol.com From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 19:07:40 EST Subject: Wheel Balancing From "John Snyder" From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 16:22:11 -0800 Subject: Re: Flasher relay John Snyder > Hi everbody my right brake light works only after I bang around my rlasher relay am I destin to replace this big ticket item.Or can I repair or jump another wire to get lights. Thanks Steven 58bn4 From Dave & Marlene From: To: ; Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 19:50:02 -0700 Subject: Re: Tire hardness, aging I have been using a tire durometer for some time to check car & motorcycle tires. This is a device which measures rubber hardness on the "Shore A'" scale. It is a regular tool in racer's tool boxes. Typical tires run from 50 (race tire) to 80 (long wearing auto or truck tire) on this scale. A tire in the lower range has long been known to be more sticky & have more traction on pavement (though shorter wear life). A new Michelin 175-15 measured a Shore hardness of 60. This same tire at two years old has a hardness of 65. The same tire at eight years old shows a hardness of 80. Other brands of tires show similar tendencies. A set of 10 year old, nearly perfect, Toyo tires measured 82. Compared to the normal tire range of 30 (50 to 80) the increase of 20 (from 60 to 80 ) represents a 67% increase in hardness & likely a 67% loss of grip. I have measured similar changes in other tires. This hardness increase not only reduces grip but makes the tires more brittle & likely to fail under high stresses. I would consider my tires, as listed above, to be subjected to average conditions. There are "extenuating circumstances". Tires which are subjected to high temperatures from long,fast, hard running & to increased ozone & ultraviolet in the air will harden faster. Tires which are stored in cool, constant temperature & low humidity will age harden much slower. If you puddle around at 60 mph & rarely take a fast turn The older tires are probably adequate. If you push things hard, run up to 100 plus & take corners hard, newer tires will work much better & give much better handling. I assume that in discussions of car handling that the later type of driving probably applies. Dave Russell BN2 Blue One Hundred wrote: > Hi Alan - > > Thanks for your comments. My Rikens have had not had > appreciable change in grip, braking or handling since > new. I will probably replace them soon, but frankly > they've never gone flat, blown out, and they grip as > good as new. I still have about 60% of the tread. > Wheels/Tires in perfect balance ... Depends on the > tire (+ good running balance/true of the front end & > shocks) and from my experience the Japanese seem to > use alot less natural latex in their tires. I do not > race the car and I keep the car in very good running > condition. > > My comment about "big brother" was basically a > response to a specific person on this list Alan S., I tried to keep our personal differences -- off list. I believe it was you who decided to put it on list. In any event, don't be so indignant. Dave From "Charley Braum" From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 22:31:02 -0500 Subject: Voltage regulator info/swap RB106/2 12V 12 76O37290F LUCAS NOTE: the 'O' after '76' is actually an O with a peace sign inside it. It has 'push-on' or 'spade-type' connectors.The ones I am familiar with have screw-in connectors. If this is identifiable as a non-Healey item, so be it; if I can trade even-up for one that has the screw-in connections, please contact me off-list. Any info would be appreciated. CB From Blue One Hundred From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 19:42:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Tire hardness, aging > "In my opinion" Key words. Obviously you respect only your own, but not mine, as I only ever expressed my opinions which you seem to attack. Again - "I tried to keep our personal differences -- off > list. I believe it was > you who decided to put it on list. In any event, > don't be so indignant." Bull Shit. The pot calls the kettle black. Time to "try" a little harder. I respond with your own comments, which were posted to the ENTIRE list: On 10/31 , you quote to me and the whole list: "I am very happy for you." Nice, SHITE remark, Dave. I'd love to meet face to face with you sometime. again, you posted to the ENTIRE list on 11/1, to quote: >"Sorry Alan, > >I just didn't know what else to say. But since you >persist; > >Anyone who is using ten year old tires is in a poor >position to judge >suspension performance. " Again a SHITE remark to post to the list. Who is doing the judging here? I never judged you. Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Dave & Marlene wrote: > Do tires really age harden? In my opinion YES, it is > not just tire > manufacturers trying to get the government to sell > more tires. > > I have been using a tire durometer for some time to > check car & > motorcycle tires. This is a device which measures > rubber hardness on the > "Shore A'" scale. It is a regular tool in racer's > tool boxes. > > Typical tires run from 50 (race tire) to 80 (long > wearing auto or truck > tire) on this scale. A tire in the lower range has > long been known to > be more sticky & have more traction on pavement > (though shorter wear life). > > A new Michelin 175-15 measured a Shore hardness of > 60. This same tire at > two years old has a hardness of 65. The same tire at > eight years old > shows a hardness of 80. Other brands of tires show > similar tendencies. > A set of 10 year old, nearly perfect, Toyo tires > measured 82. > > Compared to the normal tire range of 30 (50 to 80) > the increase of 20 > (from 60 to 80 ) > represents a 67% increase in hardness & likely a 67% > loss of grip. > > I have measured similar changes in other tires. > This hardness increase > not only reduces grip but makes the tires more > brittle & likely to fail > under high stresses. > > I would consider my tires, as listed above, to be > subjected to average > conditions. There are "extenuating circumstances". > Tires which are > subjected to high temperatures from long,fast, hard > running & to > increased ozone & ultraviolet in the air will harden > faster. Tires which > are stored in cool, constant temperature & low > humidity will age harden > much slower. > > If you puddle around at 60 mph & rarely take a fast > turn The older tires > are probably adequate. If you push things hard, run > up to 100 plus & > take corners hard, newer tires will work much better > & give much better > handling. I assume that in discussions of car > handling that the later > type of driving probably applies. > > Dave Russell > BN2 > > Blue One Hundred wrote: > > Hi Alan - > > > > Thanks for your comments. My Rikens have had not > had > > appreciable change in grip, braking or handling > since > > new. I will probably replace them soon, but > frankly > > they've never gone flat, blown out, and they grip > as > > good as new. I still have about 60% of the tread. > > > Wheels/Tires in perfect balance ... Depends on the > > tire (+ good running balance/true of the front end > & > > shocks) and from my experience the Japanese seem > to > > use alot less natural latex in their tires. I do > not > > race the car and I keep the car in very good > running > > condition. > > > > My comment about "big brother" was basically a > > response to a specific person on this list > > Alan S., > I tried to keep our personal differences -- off > list. I believe it was > you who decided to put it on list. In any event, > don't be so indignant. > > Dave From "Keith Turk" From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 21:56:07 -0600 Subject: Re: Tire hardness, aging Anyway here's my take for what it's worth..... All of us should be able to afford to rotate out a set of older tires even thou they look perfect.... they are made with oils that absolutely go away over time causing them to be stiff and suspect in my limited opinion.... Keith...( kinda harkens back to the question of how much a helmet should cost... if you gotta 10 dollar head... buy a 10 dollar helmet.... ) From WilKo at aol.com From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 23:02:10 EST Subject: Re: Tire hardness, aging Yes, ten years is a bit "long in tooth" for a tire. Rick San Diego From Dave & Marlene From: To: ; Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 21:15:50 -0700 Subject: Re: Tire hardness, aging If so, thanks. I would like to meet you also, I suspect that we would get along very well together. Dave Blue One Hundred wrote: > Dave - > > >>"In my opinion" > > > Key words. Obviously you respect only your own, but > not mine, as I only ever expressed my opinions which > you seem to attack. > > Again - > > "I tried to keep our personal differences -- off > >>list. I believe it was >>you who decided to put it on list. In any event, >>don't be so indignant." > > > Bull Shit. The pot calls the kettle black. Time to > "try" a little harder. > > I respond with your own comments, which were posted to > the ENTIRE list: > > On 10/31 , you quote to me and the whole list: > > "I am very happy for you." > > Nice, SHITE remark, Dave. I'd love to meet face to > face with you sometime. From Blue One Hundred From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 20:26:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Tire hardness, aging Yes, in the strict sense SHITE "complements" you very much, and no it was not meant as a "compliment." Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Dave & Marlene wrote: > Sorry if I have offended you Alan, > I have no idea what SHITE means, is it a complement? > > If so, thanks. I would like to meet you also, I > suspect that we would > get along very well together. > > Dave > > Blue One Hundred wrote: > > Dave - > > > > > >>"In my opinion" > > > > > > Key words. Obviously you respect only your own, > but > > not mine, as I only ever expressed my opinions > which > > you seem to attack. > > > > Again - > > > > "I tried to keep our personal differences -- off > > > >>list. I believe it was > >>you who decided to put it on list. In any event, > >>don't be so indignant." > > > > > > Bull Shit. The pot calls the kettle black. Time > to > > "try" a little harder. > > > > I respond with your own comments, which were > posted to > > the ENTIRE list: > > > > On 10/31 , you quote to me and the whole list: > > > > "I am very happy for you." > > > > Nice, SHITE remark, Dave. I'd love to meet face > to > > face with you sometime. From Dave & Marlene From: To: ; Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 21:40:41 -0700 Subject: Re: Anti-roll bar apples & oranges Just like airplanes, they never get mechanically old due to stringent inspection & replacement procedures. Truce? Dave Russell BN2 Blue One Hundred wrote: > this same person > seems quite ok with the idea that driving (or even > racing) a 40 to 50 year old car is a perfectly sane > and rational thing to do. From "I Erbs" From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 20:42:35 -0800 Subject: RE: Tire hardness, aging -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 8:27 PM To: rusd@velocitus.net Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Tire hardness, aging Little man - Yes, in the strict sense SHITE "complements" you very much, and no it was not meant as a "compliment." Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Dave & Marlene wrote: > Sorry if I have offended you Alan, > I have no idea what SHITE means, is it a complement? > > If so, thanks. I would like to meet you also, I > suspect that we would > get along very well together. > > Dave > > Blue One Hundred wrote: > > Dave - > > > > > >>"In my opinion" > > > > > > Key words. Obviously you respect only your own, > but > > not mine, as I only ever expressed my opinions > which > > you seem to attack. > > > > Again - > > > > "I tried to keep our personal differences -- off > > > >>list. I believe it was > >>you who decided to put it on list. In any event, > >>don't be so indignant." > > > > > > Bull Shit. The pot calls the kettle black. Time > to > > "try" a little harder. > > > > I respond with your own comments, which were > posted to > > the ENTIRE list: > > > > On 10/31 , you quote to me and the whole list: > > > > "I am very happy for you." > > > > Nice, SHITE remark, Dave. I'd love to meet face > to > > face with you sometime. From Dave & Marlene From: To: ; Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 21:46:57 -0700 Subject: Apology It appears that I have started a war. Sorry about that. I will be more careful in the future. Yours in contrition, Dave Russell BN2 From "Keith Pennell" From: To: ; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 23:58:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Trick to install BJ7 grill surround? The surround is a really close fit. It does go in from the front but you will have to flex/bend/twist it to get it in. Consider yourself lucky if you do not take any paint off in doing so. The deflectors will need to be out and the grill goes in from the back. Helps a lot to have the wheels off, bumper does not really matter. Keith Pennell > What's the trick to get the grill and surround installed? Does the surround > come in from the back? Should the air deflectors be out or just loosened? > Does it matter whether the bumper is on or not? Thanks. > > Esko > BJ7 From Healeyguy at aol.com From: To: ; Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 01:26:40 EST Subject: Re: BT7 Top Frame Needed From Alan Bromfield From: To: ; Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 11:07:47 -0000 Subject: RE: Date code on tyres -----Original Message----- From: Jaap Aeckerlin [mailto:j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl] Sent: 03 November 2003 20:59 To: healeys@autox.team.net; Alan Bromfield Subject: Re: Date code on tyres Alan and list, at least in Europe there is a date code on tyres. In the manufacturing period 1990-1999 it was a three digit code, consisting of week number + last year digit: 468 = week 46, 1998. To distinguish from previous ten-year periods the code was followed by a triangle. From 2000 onwards the manufacturing date is shown as four digits: 1201 = week 12 of 2001. Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands Sorry about the rubbish below here - I'm in work. The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal attention of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract. ntl Group Limited From "tom felts" From: To: ; Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 08:25:13 -0500 Subject: Re: Tire hardness, aging Cheers Tom > > Sorry if I have offended you Alan, > I have no idea what SHITE means, is it a complement? From Bob Denton From: To: ; Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 09:26:04 -0800 Subject: Re: Tire hardness, aging SHITE is an English expression usually uttered when one dicovers something unpleasant like a hardened tyre. tom felts wrote: >Not trying to prolong this thing, but i had the same question. Tried to >relate it to Iraq---------------no--probably not:) > >Cheers >Tom > > > > >>Sorry if I have offended you Alan, >>I have no idea what SHITE means, is it a complement? From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" From: To: ; Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 08:44:29 -0600 Subject: Re: Apology There is no need for an apology. Your comments were well within the parameters of polite discussion between friends. In fact your participation in the recent discourse on sway bars was as elegant as Chris Dimmock's. Keep up the excellent commentary! Kind regards Ed Saskatoon, Saskatchewan 65 (?) BJ8 89 Morgan 4/4 (both suffering from the cold bite of winter) Dave & Marlene wrote: > Hi listers, > > It appears that I have started a war. Sorry about that. I will be more > careful in the future. > > Yours in contrition, > > Dave Russell > BN2 From Blue One Hundred From: To: ; Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 06:58:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Tire hardness, aging My tires are 10 years old. Apparently they're a pile of shite! Alan --- tom felts wrote: > Not trying to prolong this thing, but i had the same > question. Tried to > relate it to Iraq---------------no--probably not:) > > Cheers > Tom > > > > > > Sorry if I have offended you Alan, > > I have no idea what SHITE means, is it a > complement? From "tom felts" From: To: ; Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 10:03:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Tire hardness, aging ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Denton To: tom felts Cc: Dave & Marlene; Blue One Hundred; healeys@autox.team.net Sent: 11/4/03 9:26:21 AM Subject: Re: Tire hardness, aging Tom, SHITE is an English expression usually uttered when one dicovers something unpleasant like a hardened tyre. From Bob Denton From: To: ; Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 10:04:52 -0800 Subject: Re: Apology Are we starting to rate our contributions? Do we get numeric points or just A thru F? I gotta know. I may have ta clean up my spellin. M.E. & E.A. Driver wrote: >Hi Dave > >There is no need for an apology. Your comments were well within the parameters >of polite discussion between friends. In fact your participation in the recent >discourse on sway bars was as elegant as Chris Dimmock's. Keep up the excellent >commentary! > >Kind regards >Ed >Saskatoon, Saskatchewan >65 (?) BJ8 >89 Morgan 4/4 (both suffering from the cold bite of winter) > >Dave & Marlene wrote: > > > >>Hi listers, >> >>It appears that I have started a war. Sorry about that. I will be more >>careful in the future. >> >>Yours in contrition, >> >>Dave Russell >>BN2 From "Alex" From: To: ; Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 10:43:21 -0500 Subject: RE: Nice Austin Healey comments In model railroading the same is true. Everyone is asking how to get the younger generation interested in model trains, and they're lamenting how the hobby is dying out. Model airplane enthusiasts echo the same sentiments. Is this a commentary on where most of today's kids are at, or is it really something we ought to worry about? I think that hobby cars (and especially cars such as Austin Healeys) are simply not things that most kids can afford, much less get enthusiastic about---unless they're lucky enough to have a parent or neighbor that drives a Healey. On the other hand, I see quite a fair amount of interest in my Austin Healey from teenagers and young adults in my community. Most kids around here apparently have never seen such a diminutive, yet, racy car. Some of them get excited seeing such a vehicle. Many come over for a peek, and others ask interesting and perceptive questions. Many just "ooh" and "ahh." I have mixed feelings about today's kids (having taught electronics at their age level for quite a few years). They're just as bright as ever, but they're exposed to the effects of a pop culture run wild. Sometimes I'm not sure where any magic exists that can stir their imaginations. So much of what they're exposed to is pre-canned Harry Potter junk. Perhaps my viewpoint comes from being a kid when the sound of a distant steam train whistle was stirring, and so was the crackle of a $29 shortwave radio that let me listen to stations on the other side of the world---right from my Dad's basement workshop. == Alex in Maine 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie" Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8 Amateur Radio AI2Q http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm .-.-. -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Scot Paulson Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 10:55 AM To: Alan Bromfield; healey list Subject: RE: Nice Austin Healey comments Message text written by Alan Bromfield >It does raise the question of where the next generation of AH owners might come from. ........... From "HoYo" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 10:23:38 -0600 Subject: Re: Tire hardness, aging > Shite is Scottish/English slang for sh*t. Its use > isn't as liberal as sh*t... more for simply describing > something that isn't that great or a situation that > "sucks". It's a shade less vulgar than plain old > sh*t. F**k is an ancient middle english word, like > s**t! They are very old indeed. > > My tires are 10 years old. Apparently they're a pile > of shite! > > Alan > --- tom felts wrote: > > Not trying to prolong this thing, but i had the same > > question. Tried to > > relate it to Iraq---------------no--probably not:) > > > > Cheers > > Tom > > > > > > > > > > Sorry if I have offended you Alan, > > > I have no idea what SHITE means, is it a > > complement? From John Miller From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 12:01:12 -0500 Subject: [OT] Kids' interests (was Re: Nice Austin Healey comments) I'm 60, a ham, and I understand. But I think the problem may be that we're demanding that the youngsters enjoy *our* hobbies, when the reality is that they've got perfectly good hobbies of their own. Does it bother you that almost no one plays with steam threshing engines as a hobby anymore? It sure bothered some of our recent ancestors. Today's kids are doing things with their cars that you and I may think are pretty stupid, but they're hobbies, all the same. Kids that once would have been building radios and using a Morse key are today doing equally amazing things with computers. When today's kids are our age, no doubt they'll be restoring '90s Mustangs and lamenting the lack of interest on the part of their grandkids. I could elaborate, but I reckon I've made my point. -- John Miller "Why are we importing all these highbrow plays like `Amadeus'? I could have told you Mozart was a jerk for nothing." -Ian Shoales From Healeyolic From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 12:26:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Nice Austin Healey comments The encouragement to touch the trains and the Healey have given them a desire to continue on with them after we are gone. TV is not everything except if we allow it to take over. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex" To: "'Scot Paulson'" ; "'Alan Bromfield'" ; "'healey list'" Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 10:43 AM Subject: RE: Nice Austin Healey comments | It's interesting to me that this "problem" of the next generation's interest | seems to pervade my other hobbies, too. In the ham radio world, everyone's | talking about the dying hobby (actually Amateur Radio is a service under FCC | rules) and how kids aren't interested in short-wave radio communications or | even electronics tinkering anymore. | | In model railroading the same is true. Everyone is asking how to get the | younger generation interested in model trains, and they're lamenting how the | hobby is dying out. Model airplane enthusiasts echo the same sentiments. | | Is this a commentary on where most of today's kids are at, or is it really | something we ought to worry about? | | I think that hobby cars (and especially cars such as Austin Healeys) are | simply not things that most kids can afford, much less get enthusiastic | about---unless they're lucky enough to have a parent or neighbor that drives | a Healey. On the other hand, I see quite a fair amount of interest in my | Austin Healey from teenagers and young adults in my community. Most kids | around here apparently have never seen such a diminutive, yet, racy car. | Some of them get excited seeing such a vehicle. Many come over for a peek, | and others ask interesting and perceptive questions. Many just "ooh" and | "ahh." | | I have mixed feelings about today's kids (having taught electronics at their | age level for quite a few years). They're just as bright as ever, but | they're exposed to the effects of a pop culture run wild. Sometimes I'm not | sure where any magic exists that can stir their imaginations. So much of | what they're exposed to is pre-canned Harry Potter junk. | | Perhaps my viewpoint comes from being a kid when the sound of a distant | steam train whistle was stirring, and so was the crackle of a $29 shortwave | radio that let me listen to stations on the other side of the world---right | from my Dad's basement workshop. | | == Alex in Maine | 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie" | Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8 | Amateur Radio AI2Q | http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm | | .-.-. | | | | | | -----Original Message----- | From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net | [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Scot Paulson | Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 10:55 AM | To: Alan Bromfield; healey list | Subject: RE: Nice Austin Healey comments | | | Message text written by Alan Bromfield | >It does raise the question of where the next generation of AH owners might | come from. ........... | | From Scot Paulson From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 12:44:51 -0500 Subject: [OT] Kids' interests (was Re: Nice Austin Healey comments) demanding that the youngsters enjoy *our* hobbies, when the reality is that they've got perfectly good hobbies of their own. Does it bother you that almost no one plays with steam threshing engines as a hobby anymore? It sure bothered some of our recent ancestors. Today's kids are doing things with their cars that you and I may think are pretty stupid, but they're hobbies, all the same. Kids that once would have been building radios and using a Morse key are today doing equally amazing things with computers. < Some of us hunt and fish and others do not. When you involve your kids with these activities, more often times than not, they will continue to love the outdoors all their lives. So what is the difference if we replace fishing with Healeying? I think the important thing is to involve these kids with something,anything you are passionate about. Do it together! Whether they continue on with the endeavor is up to them......... Scot '66 BJ8 From Jorge Garcia From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 12:40:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: Bent wire wheel(s) --------------------------------- Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard From "Robert D. Hughes" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 12:52:45 -0800 Subject: Re: Sprite Fifty Finale Race 2008 Robert Hughes 60 Sprite 65 BJ8 *************************************************************************** At 06:26 PM 10/30/2003, Wm. Severin Thompson wrote: >He Y'all > > >I've been toying with the idea of creating a European/American 50th >Anniversary Challenge Race Series for the Sprite's 50th Anniversary in 2008. >(Think something similar to what we did in the 1990 Healey Challenge, where >a number of cars were shipped over to race a season here.) > >The logistics of this are huge, but not insurmountable... and we have 4.5 >years to get our poop grouped on this. If there's interest, I will begin >lobbying every major US vintage organization to designate the Sprite as the >featured marque for that year's event. If you think about it, Sprites might >have won more races over the years than any other car... can you think of >any that might have won more? They're still racing current era spec...45 >years after their creation. > >My initial vision would be "ala Team Thicko"... inclusive, rather than >exclusive... creating an unlimited class for current era SCCA stuff, and any >of the highly modified Sprites in Europe, as well as 1275, 1098, and 948 >vintage classes. Not sure, but perhaps even include Midgets in the mix as >well... as they're at least fraternal if not near-identical twins to >Sprites. Including everyone and everything might be a tad optimistic... hard >to say at this point... but its open for discussion. > >I suspect with the "rabid" Spridgeteers here in the US and Canada, along >with our friends across the Atlantic, that we'd have plenty of volunteer >help to pull this off. There are so many things to concern yourself in an >undertaking such as this. For instance, shipping of cars. Costs, insurance, >logistics, etc. In 1990 we had enthusiasts meet the ships as the cargo >containers were unloaded, and also help supervise the transport. Also, >volunteers to help trailer the cars between events is a possibility, vs. the >cost of having a Passport, or similar outfit truck the cars from venue to >venue. I'm not sure, as of yet, if the Sprite racers in the UK and elsewhere >(you too Gigante in OZ) have the financial wherewithal to assume the costs >of shipping a car, or the ability to take suffient time off of work to make >a number of events. > >One mistake I've seen made all to often in events like these, is an attempt >to try to squeeze the restorers, or Spridget parts suppliers, or race shops >for large amounts of sponsorship. The reality is, many, if not most of these >companies aren't raking in piles of dough. I'd rather seek sponsorship on a >grander scale if possible... but, who knows? Specualtion is premature at >this point. > >I'd like to defray the racer's costs as much as possible, in every way, as >this will not be an inexpensive summer. One thing I've considered is to take >advantage of the concentration of events in the June/July timeframe. Also to >consider, are tracks that themselves are a draw. In June/July there are >events at Blackhawk, Mid Ohio, Mosport, Virginia, Road America... all within >say a 10 to 14 hour radius... so transportation time and costs are more >reasonable. I don't, however, rule out adding events on the east or west >coast. > >Cars will need storage between events. Racers always need crew. Some will >need places to stay, etc. > >Perhaps some would rather buy a car in the states, race it the season, and >sell it... which might create a market for those that want to prepare cars >for the series. Also, in the 4.5 years from now, some of us (not me pal) >will no longer be racing, and there will be fresh faces in our ranks. It's >possible that some racing other cars currently might want to join us. > >If my buddy John Sprinzel can remain warmer than room temperature til then, >I'd love to have him as Grand Marshall. Any other famous Sprite drivers >would certainly be welcome and recognized for their contribution to the >great history of Sprite racing. > >Just tossing out the idea right now. Whattya think? > >WST >Flounder >Team Thicko From "James Lea" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 18:01:09 -0500 Subject: RC Healey James Lea Rockport Maine 1962 BT7 II From CAWS52803 at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 18:06:20 EST Subject: Re: RC Healey From "Bob Johnson" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 19:51:29 -0500 Subject: Cant blow my horn, The sequel, Part II The second sequel: What does it all mean? I took the horn button out last night and tested for a circuit on the violet-black wire. It was all there, still no horn. (I had already test the violet circuit last week, and it was fine.) Shorted across the button (switch) to be sure, no horn. Went out tonight, tested the violet wire--- no circuit, damn. Fiddled around with the wire where it attaches to the fuse bar. It looked dirty and greasy so I took it loose and wiped it off, still no circuit. Fiddled some more, cleaned it and reconnected it again. Had my ohm meter on and one clip on the horn at the purple wire. Touched the clip to the fuse bar, sparks flew, the end of the clip burned off, and I almost wet myself. Holy cow, what was that??? But now my horn works! What does it all mean? Thanks, Bob Johnson BJ8 From "James Lea" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 19:54:42 -0500 Subject: Re: RC Healey James Lea Rockport Maine 1962 BT7 II From "Alex" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 20:01:50 -0500 Subject: RE: Cant blow my horn, The sequel, Part II == Alex in Maine 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie" Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8 Amateur Radio AI2Q http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm .-.-. -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bob Johnson Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 7:51 PM To: healeys Subject: Cant blow my horn, The sequel, Part II Healeyphiles, ................. Touched the clip to the fuse bar, sparks flew, the end of the clip burned off, and I almost wet myself. Holy cow, what was that??? But now my horn works! What does it all mean? Thanks, Bob Johnson BJ8 From "Michael Salter" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 20:26:48 -0500 Subject: RE: Cant blow my horn, The sequel, Part II Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Johnson Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 7:51 PM To: healeys Subject: Cant blow my horn, The sequel, Part II Healeyphiles, The second sequel: What does it all mean? I took the horn button out last night and tested for a circuit on the violet-black wire. It was all there, still no horn. (I had already test the violet circuit last week, and it was fine.) Shorted across the button (switch) to be sure, no horn. Went out tonight, tested the violet wire--- no circuit, damn. Fiddled around with the wire where it attaches to the fuse bar. It looked dirty and greasy so I took it loose and wiped it off, still no circuit. Fiddled some more, cleaned it and reconnected it again. Had my ohm meter on and one clip on the horn at the purple wire. Touched the clip to the fuse bar, sparks flew, the end of the clip burned off, and I almost wet myself. Holy cow, what was that??? But now my horn works! What does it all mean? Thanks, Bob Johnson BJ8 From Blue One Hundred From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 19:20:50 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Cant blow my horn, The sequel, Part II You probably had some surface corrosion on the fuse box connectors, which jolted over the gap when you touched with your clip and made a connection in the mayhem. It's good you wet your pants and not your fuse box, you might have lost the connection again! Whenever I have electrics suddenly stop working in my BJ8, I simply fiddle with the fuses and 98% of the time the electrics start working again. I don't have this problem in the BN1 because the fuse box on that has screw terminals which seem to have a better connection.... as long as the screws don't fall off!! Alan '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 --- Bob Johnson wrote: > Healeyphiles, > > The second sequel: What does it all mean? I took the > horn button out last > night and tested for a circuit on the violet-black > wire. It was all there, > still no horn. (I had already test the violet > circuit last week, and it was > fine.) Shorted across the button (switch) to be > sure, no horn. Went out > tonight, tested the violet wire--- no circuit, damn. > Fiddled around with the > wire where it attaches to the fuse bar. It looked > dirty and greasy so I took > it loose and wiped it off, still no circuit. Fiddled > some more, cleaned it and > reconnected it again. Had my ohm meter on and one > clip on the horn at the > purple wire. Touched the clip to the fuse bar, > sparks flew, the end of the > clip burned off, and I almost wet myself. Holy cow, > what was that??? But now > my horn works! What does it all mean? > > Thanks, > > Bob Johnson > > BJ8 From "Gil Rockwell" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 22:28:34 -0500 Subject: RE: [OT] Kids' interests (was Re: Nice Austin Healey comments) Gil -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Scot Paulson Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 12:45 PM To: John Miller; healey list Subject: [OT] Kids' interests (was Re: Nice Austin Healey comments) Message text written by John Miller >'m 60, a ham, and I understand. But I think the problem may be that we're demanding that the youngsters enjoy *our* hobbies, when the reality is that they've got perfectly good hobbies of their own. Does it bother you that almost no one plays with steam threshing engines as a hobby anymore? It sure bothered some of our recent ancestors. Today's kids are doing things with their cars that you and I may think are pretty stupid, but they're hobbies, all the same. Kids that once would have been building radios and using a Morse key are today doing equally amazing things with computers. < Some of us hunt and fish and others do not. When you involve your kids with these activities, more often times than not, they will continue to love the outdoors all their lives. So what is the difference if we replace fishing with Healeying? I think the important thing is to involve these kids with something,anything you are passionate about. Do it together! Whether they continue on with the endeavor is up to them......... Scot '66 BJ8 From Dave Carpenter From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 22:43:00 -0500 Subject: Back to tire hardness Dave 67 BJ8 From Dave Carpenter From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 22:45:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Sprite Fifty Finale Race 2008 Robert D. Hughes wrote: > Terrific!!! I still have the Sprite I bought new in 1960 and raced in > SCCA S.F. Region in 1962-63 -- still in class "H" dress. Can we > come out and play, too? > > Robert Hughes > 60 Sprite > 65 BJ8 From HealeyBJ7 at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 05:59:27 EST Subject: Fuel gauge From Blue One Hundred From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 03:08:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Back to tire hardness That's part of the reason my 10 year old tires on my BJ8 are in good shape. Pressure is always kept to spec, I don't drive it that much, and the car is pretty much kept out of the sun except when I drive it on occasion. The spoked rims were professionally relaced and trued by BWW when I bought the new tires, and I make sure the shocks are always in good shape so I get no wheel bouncing (My first set of new tires on the healey taught me the value of balance and shocks - they went bad early because of bad true and bad shocks). The result is no bald spots, no cracking, even tread heel to toe and no loss in grip. I think with them being a high quality Japanese tire helps here. Regards, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Dave Carpenter wrote: > The tires on my street rod are almost 20 years old. > There are no signs > of cracks, they hold air all year, no shakes, > steers great, handles as > it always did and they have 12,000 miles and tons of > tread. They sit in > a dry garage, out of the UV rays and elements. I > took it to the drags > again this year and my 60 foot times off the line > are still about the > same as any runs it ever made. Either the traction > sucks to begin with > or the tires haven't really lost much stick. I am > vigilant about tire > pressures and inspecting things any time I drive any > of our cars. I > won't take the BJ8 out on the freeway or autocross > it until I get new > tires and rims for it. I bought it in June, and the > tires are cracking, > I can see bald spots and bumps on them. The rims > have loose spokes and > bent edges and you can feel the shakes from the > years of banging around > by the PO. I think attention to details is what > keeps accidents and > other bad situations under control. Knowing as much > about your vehicle, > and any equipment for that matter, as possible, can > keep you out of > trouble. > > Dave > 67 BJ8 From Stella67 at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2003 09:29:08 -0500 Subject: RE: [OT] Kids' interests (was Re: Nice Austin Healey comments) From "Brashear, Jack, N" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 09:52:08 -0600 Subject: LBC for sale Jack From Dave & Marlene From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2003 11:08:41 -0700 Subject: Re: Fuel gauge See this; http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_10.htm Dave Russell BN2 HealeyBJ7@aol.com wrote: > A friend has a BN2 fuel gauge that has quit. Am I remembering from previous > strings that the simple test of the gauge is to jump a circuit to the terminals > on the back of the gauge and that should cause full deflection of the needle? > (Gauge out of car) And that the sending unit functions on the ground side of > the loop when everything is hooked up in the car? This has probably been > addressed on the list before, but I am having no luck with the archives. > TIA, Bob From "J. Scott Morris" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 14:54:07 -0500 (EST) Subject: Voltage Regulator Model Year Regulator pn[1] BMC pn[2,3] Type[2,3] Sprite 1958-62 37183 3H1836 RB106/2 Sprite 1962-early 69 37290 BCA4308 RB106/2 100-6 & 3000 MkII 1959-63 37183 3H1836 RB106/2 3000 Mk III 1964-68 37331 BCA4663 RB340 Source: [1] Lucas Fast Moving Parts, 1973, pg 17 [2] BMC Fast Moving Parts, 1966, pg 39 and Lucas/BMC Cross-reference pg C2 [3] Lucas Master Catalogue 1945-1960, No.400E, Section C, pg C9 In the Lucas Master Catalogue on pg C17, the control box / regulator 37290 vehicle application references does not include any Austin Healeys prior to 1960. It is only later that this voltage regulator was used on the Sprite. A scan of the page is included for your interest. It will be stripped from the copy that appears on the Healey List. --Scott Morris -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- >From : "Charley Braum" To : "Healey List" Subject: Voltage regulator info/swap Date : Mon, 3 Nov 2003 22:31:02 -0500 I have a VR with the following legend embossed on the side of the base: RB106/2 12V 12 76O37290F LUCAS NOTE: the 'O' after '76' is actually an O with a peace sign inside it. It has 'push-on' or 'spade-type' connectors. The ones I am familiar with have screw-in connectors. If this is identifiable as a non-Healey item, so be it; if I can trade even-up for one that has the screw-in connections, please contact me off-list. Any info would be appreciated. --CB ===== J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives ______________________________________________________________________ Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of 400E Sec C.doc] From "Bob Johnson" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 19:29:33 -0500 Subject: Primary choke cable BJ8 primary choke cable: Shouldn't it be about (really pretty near exactly) the same length as the distance form the dash to the firewall less the distance to the white nylon piece that is against the firewall? My original cable was not working; would not push the cable back to the closed position on the bracket on the engine side of the firewall. Thought it was gummy from many years of sitting unused. Took it out and cleaned everything really well and reinstalled. It was so slippery that it would not stay in the fully choked position unless you held it there, but still would not release the choke. Decided that was not right and ordered a new cable. The original one was long enough to have maybe a 2-3 in. curve (deflection) in it. The new one was 8 in. longer than the original one. It would not do anything operative at that length, so I made it the same length as the old one. Now it works like the old one. But really, shouldn't I make it just about the same length as the actual distance from the dash to the firewall to prevent deflection? TIA, Bob Johnson BJ8 From "Bob Johnson" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 19:31:55 -0500 Subject: In a hurry tach Rebuilt the tach last winter. But, it has never been quite right. Could not use the pot to adjust the tach to the actual engine speed per my electronic tach, either way under, or way over. Even changed the pot, no joy. But now, when I turn on the switch, the tach spikes to the top end, bounces back to maybe 4500 rpm, back to the top, then to zero, and repeats this wild gyration until I crank the engine. Anyone willing to tackle this? Thanks, Bob Johnson BJ8 From Bill Pollock From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2003 19:39:10 -0500 Subject: service manual for sale If interested contact me off the list. Bill Pollock From "Chris Masucci" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 19:31:07 -0600 Subject: Re: In a hurry tach > > Rebuilt the tach last winter. But, it has never been quite right. Could not > use the pot to adjust the tach to the actual engine speed per my electronic > tach, either way under, or way over. Even changed the pot, no joy. But now, > when I turn on the switch, the tach spikes to the top end, bounces back to > maybe 4500 rpm, back to the top, then to zero, and repeats this wild gyration > until I crank the engine. Anyone willing to tackle this? > > Thanks, > > Bob Johnson > > BJ8 From From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 03:03:55 -0700 Subject: Forwarded: electrical problem http://www.team.net/posting.html Reply to author, not me. mjb. ---- ------- Start of forwarded message ------- From: "Jim Parish" Subject: electrical problem Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 06:29:28 -0800 I have a multi-faceted electrical question for a 1966 BJ8. My right headlight doesn't work in the high beam position. Both lamps work in the low beam position, but the right light goes out when the high beam is selected. I also have a dead tach until the engine compartment gets really warmed up, and my panel lights flash. I've been told it may be a ground problem (especially with the tach acting funny) but wanted to check the list for advice Jim Parish ------- End of forwarded message ------- From "Bob Johnson" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 07:51:49 -0500 Subject: Re: Primary choke cable This is very interesting, even makes sense to me. Now to figure out how to "fix" the firewall end... There is that rather odd white nylon piece that has a short end with a much larger dia. flat side that could maybe be glued to the firewall. The other end of that piece is conical on the inside and seems to me to be where the cable sheath would go into, but there is nothing to really make it "stick" there. Maybe that could be glued as well... But that solution sounds rather counter to the way that I would guess that it was originally put together. BTW, probably my back carb does have a sticking problem, but I won't know that until I can get this step remedied. Bob J. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charley Braum" To: "Bob Johnson" Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 9:48 PM Subject: Re: Primary choke cable > I'm not sure the length of the cable is the operative issue - the fixing > points at either end will ensure proper operation and if the cable will not > 'hold' when 'activated' then a weaker spring might be called for, or some > sort of counter-acting device (re-install some crud!!). > > I'm by no means an expert, however, I have re-routed cables, especially > on motorcycles, to help prevent interference with other mechanical bits and > the actual length does not seem to matter. The ends need to be fixed rather > solid and the housing needs to be positioned (fixed) to prevent any > unnecessary flex. > > Keep us informed, good luck, > > > CB From "Bob Johnson" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 07:55:17 -0500 Subject: Re: Forwarded: electrical problem Bob Johnson > > ------- Start of forwarded message ------- > From: "Jim Parish" > Subject: electrical problem > Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 06:29:28 -0800 > > I have a multi-faceted electrical question for a 1966 BJ8. My right > headlight doesn't work in the high beam position. Both lamps work in the > low beam position, but the right light goes out when the high beam is > selected. I also have a dead tach until the engine compartment gets > really warmed up, and my panel lights flash. I've been told it may be a > ground problem (especially with the tach acting funny) but wanted to > check the list for advice > > Jim Parish From "Bob Johnson" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 08:00:17 -0500 Subject: Re: In a hurry tach Thanks, Bob J. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Masucci" To: "Bob Johnson" ; "healeys" Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 8:31 PM Subject: Re: In a hurry tach > Hi Bob, > I had the same problem with mine after I rebuilt it. I think that many of > these tachs are different in small ways. It sounds like you have one or > both of the transistors installed backwards. Does it work at all, or just > peg when you rev the engine? I also had to add an extra couple loops in the > wire on the back of the tach...reads very steady now. > Cheers, > Chris > BJ8 > > > > > Rebuilt the tach last winter. But, it has never been quite right. Could > not > > use the pot to adjust the tach to the actual engine speed per my > electronic > > tach, either way under, or way over. Even changed the pot, no joy. But > now, > > when I turn on the switch, the tach spikes to the top end, bounces back to > > maybe 4500 rpm, back to the top, then to zero, and repeats this wild > gyration > > until I crank the engine. Anyone willing to tackle this? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bob Johnson > > > > BJ8 From "Michael Salter" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 09:38:27 -0500 Subject: RE: Primary choke cable Michael Salter BBD Engineering Better By Design 18 Everingham Ct Willowdale, ON CANADA M2M 2J5 -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Johnson Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2003 7:52 AM To: healeys; Charley Braum Subject: Re: Primary choke cable Thanks, Charley. This is very interesting, even makes sense to me. Now to figure out how to "fix" the firewall end... There is that rather odd white nylon piece that has a short end with a much larger dia. flat side that could maybe be glued to the firewall. The other end of that piece is conical on the inside and seems to me to be where the cable sheath would go into, but there is nothing to really make it "stick" there. Maybe that could be glued as well... But that solution sounds rather counter to the way that I would guess that it was originally put together. BTW, probably my back carb does have a sticking problem, but I won't know that until I can get this step remedied. Bob J. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charley Braum" To: "Bob Johnson" Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 9:48 PM Subject: Re: Primary choke cable > I'm not sure the length of the cable is the operative issue - the fixing > points at either end will ensure proper operation and if the cable will not > 'hold' when 'activated' then a weaker spring might be called for, or some > sort of counter-acting device (re-install some crud!!). > > I'm by no means an expert, however, I have re-routed cables, especially > on motorcycles, to help prevent interference with other mechanical bits and > the actual length does not seem to matter. The ends need to be fixed rather > solid and the housing needs to be positioned (fixed) to prevent any > unnecessary flex. > > Keep us informed, good luck, > > > CB From "Keith Pennell" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 11:48:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Primary choke cable Two things come to mind here. First, you are aware that to hold the cable at any degree of the choke position requires that you turn the knob? Maybe your knob is slightly turned causing it to not return and not to hold either. Second, I would disconnect the choke cables at the carbs and see to it there is sufficient tension on the return springs to take the choke off there. > With the horn working, the car passed it's state inspection today. Gooood car. > On to the next "issue". > > BJ8 primary choke cable: Shouldn't it be about (really pretty near exactly) > the same length as the distance form the dash to the firewall less the > distance to the white nylon piece that is against the firewall? My original > cable was not working; would not push the cable back to the closed position on > the bracket on the engine side of the firewall. Thought it was gummy from many > years of sitting unused. Took it out and cleaned everything really well and > reinstalled. It was so slippery that it would not stay in the fully choked > position unless you held it there, but still would not release the choke. > Decided that was not right and ordered a new cable. The original one was long > enough to have maybe a 2-3 in. curve (deflection) in it. The new one was 8 in. > longer than the original one. It would not do anything operative at that > length, so I made it the same length as the old one. Now it works like the old > one. But really, shouldn't I make it just about the same length as the actual > distance from the dash to the firewall to prevent deflection? > > TIA, > > Bob Johnson > > BJ8 From James Sailer From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2003 10:34:49 -0700 Subject: Smitty Conversion Question I haven't been able to raise smitty for confiramtion on this application. Does anyone out there know if a 1995-00 TOYOTA TACOMA manual trans from a 4cyl, 2 wheel drive will work? Thanks. James E. Sailer Xron Associates, Inc. Office: (208) 524-1363 Cell: (208) 221-6089 heliskier@direcway.com From Awgertoo at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 15:49:16 EST Subject: Re: Smitty Conversion Question > I haven't been able to raise smitty for confiramtion on this application. > Does anyone out there know if a 1995-00 TOYOTA TACOMA manual trans from a > 4cyl, 2 wheel drive will work? > Smitty is certainy the maven but as I recall he said it should be from a "1991-1995 two-wheel drive Toyota truck". You may want to go to the UK Healey Club site as they have a very complete article on 5-speed conversions, including the gear ratios for the various transmission configurations that were apparently used. Best--Michael Oriitt, 100 Le Mans From "Kent McLean" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 16:33:48 -0500 Subject: RE: Nice Austin Healey comments Who cares if they like Healeys? Seriously. When I was a kid, I didn't give a hoot about cars that were 40 year old. Why should today's kids? I really liked the new Jaguar XKEs, but I could afford a '59 100/6. I'd still like a '67 E coupe. I read some where that the new director of the British Heritage Motor Museum recognizes that our hobby is all about memories. And for most, that means cars that are about 40 years old. For us in our 50s and 60s, that means cars from the 1960s. For today's kids, they like cars from the 1990s and 2000s, and in 30 years will be wishing for that 1990 Miata they got rid of when they had their first kid. They'll hunt one down and fix it up for Sunday afternoon rides, and they'll wonder why the new generation of kids don't like small 4-cylinder sports cars. Kent '56 100 BN2 P.S. I did get to Portland ME for steamers. The day started out warm and sunny, turned gray when I hit the NH/ME border, but the rain held off. The ride home, in the dark, was memorable. We passed an ice cream stand and stopped for a cone and a bowl. Just like summer. Except it was November 1, and a tad cooler. :-) From Scot Paulson From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 17:10:11 -0500 Subject: RE: Nice Austin Healey comments I read some where that the new director of the British Heritage Motor Museum recognizes that our hobby is all about memories. And for most, that means cars that are about 40 years old. For us in our 50s and 60s, that means cars from the 1960s. For today's kids, they like cars from the 1990s and 2000s, and in 30 years will be wishing for that 1990 Miata they got rid of when they had their first kid. They'll hunt one down and fix it up for Sunday afternoon rides, and they'll wonder why the new generation of kids don't like small 4-cylinder sports cars.< Kent, I agree with your comments somewhat. However, there is a fellow on my block that collects Packards and Duesenburgs from the 30's. He is in his early 50's. Into which category would you put him besides being rather affluent? Scot '66 BJ8 From "MARILYN COLES" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 17:50:50 -0500 Subject: Healey 100 service manual. Can someone help me identify a 100 service manual? It has Publication Part No. AKD4851 Printed in England by the Nuffield Press Ltd., Cowley, Oxford,9176 503 THE BRITISH MOTOR CORPORATION 1959 this is all printed on bottom of first page. I know an original of the period is part no. 97H997D. Thanks in advance for any help. Alex. From Awgertoo at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 18:58:04 EST Subject: Re: Nice Austin Healey comments > For today's kids, they like cars from the 1990s and 2000s, and in 30 years > will be > wishing for that 1990 Miata they got rid of when they had their first kid. > They'll hunt one down and fix it up for Sunday afternoon rides, and they'll > wonder why the new generation of kids don't like small 4-cylinder sports cars. > Absolutely. Though it's hard for me to imagine that those cars will ever have anywhere near the panache that we feel our Healeys do, and while I personally think that kids look dorky (and almost invisible) riding with their seats adjusted down and all the way back, this is the present embodiment of the American Male's love affair with the automobile. So more power to them, though I fear that there will be a generation of people who will be totally deaf due to the base "thumpers" that are also part of the picture. Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans From "Reid Trummel" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 00:30:45 +0000 Subject: Re: Healey 100 service manual. Reid Trummel "What a lucky thing the wheel was invented before the automobile; otherwise, can you imagine what awful screeching?" Samuel Hoffenstein >From: "MARILYN COLES" >Reply-To: "MARILYN COLES" >To: >Subject: Healey 100 service manual. >Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 17:50:50 -0500 > >Hi. > >Can someone help me identify a 100 service manual? It has Publication Part >No. >AKD4851 Printed in England by the Nuffield Press Ltd., Cowley, >Oxford,9176 >503 THE BRITISH MOTOR CORPORATION 1959 this is all printed on bottom of >first page. I know an original of the period is part no. 97H997D. Thanks in >advance for any help. Alex. _________________________________________________________________ MSN Messenger with backgrounds, emoticons and more. http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/cdp_customize From Randy Hicks From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2003 19:23:55 -0800 Subject: Re: Nice Austin Healey comments > though I fear that there > will be a generation of people who will be totally deaf due to the base > "thumpers" that are also part of the picture. As opposed to us who are deaf from the concerts of the 60's, 70's, :-) Randy Hicks '56 100M From Awgertoo at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 19:41:10 EST Subject: Re: Nice Austin Healey comments > As opposed to us who are deaf from the concerts of the 60's, 70's, :-) > Yup--And since I cut my exhaust to exit just in front of the rear wheel I haven't heard a thing! Best--Michael From "James Lea" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 19:45:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Nice Austin Healey comments James Lea Rockport Maine 1962 BT7 II From "John Snyder" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 17:09:03 -0800 Subject: Young Healey Fans In the early 1970s, when our son was 3 or 4, he rode in the back of our BT7, because that was our family car. When he was in his teens, we ran that car up and down the back road to MT Diablo State Park (in the SF Bay area) at full throttle. Coming down, we could smell the brakes and the tires. He is now in his 30s, and has made me promise that I will give him the first chance at the car if I ever decide to sell it. Now his 2 oldest daughters (6 and 4) get a big thrill out of riding (slowly) in the rear seats of this 43 year old car. The car has never been restored, has the original paint, and the head and pan have never been off of it. I took the BT7 to Tahoe last year (because the restoration of my BN7 MK2 was not done). My son drove up there to meet me, stuffed his C5 Corvette (he does not have the time to restore and maintain a Healey now) in the hotel garage, and did not look at again until it was time for him to go home. John Snyder From Blue One Hundred From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 17:19:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: RE: Nice Austin Healey comments I am 38 years old. I bought my first healey in 1985 when I was 20 years old. I had no clue what a Healey was until I got tired of my gutless MGB, did some research (alot of research), talked to several british car owners... and settled on my '64 Healey in '85. My purchase had nothing to do with memories... as I had no memories of the car to start with, I was born in 1965. I simply wanted a cool hobby car that was easy to work on, pretty, fast, out of the ordinary and cheap to get parts. Simple. I bought my car for the many of the same reasons why half of Jay Leno's collection is older than he is. Little Japo-4 bangers are very cool too and am considering buying one. I also have my eye on a '42 Consolidate PBY for my Scuba diving trips and '45 Supermarine Spitfire for when I really want to be by myself... but I guess I'll have to work a little harder for those. Regards, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Kent McLean wrote: > Alex in Maine wrote: > > It's interesting to me that this "problem" of the > next generation's > interest > > seems to pervade my other hobbies, too. > > Is this a commentary on where most of today's kids > are at, or is it > really > > something we ought to worry about? > > Who cares if they like Healeys? Seriously. When I > was > a kid, I didn't give a hoot about cars that were 40 > year old. > Why should today's kids? I really liked the new > Jaguar > XKEs, but I could afford a '59 100/6. I'd still > like a '67 > E coupe. > > I read some where that the new director of the > British > Heritage Motor Museum recognizes that our hobby is > all about memories. And for most, that means cars > that > are about 40 years old. For us in our 50s and 60s, > that > means cars from the 1960s. For today's kids, they > like > cars from the 1990s and 2000s, and in 30 years will > be > wishing for that 1990 Miata they got rid of when > they > had their first kid. They'll hunt one down and fix > it up > for Sunday afternoon rides, and they'll wonder why > the > new generation of kids don't like small 4-cylinder > sports cars. > > Kent > '56 100 BN2 > > P.S. I did get to Portland ME for steamers. The day > started out warm and sunny, turned gray when I hit > the NH/ME border, but the rain held off. The ride > home, in the dark, was memorable. We passed an > ice cream stand and stopped for a cone and a bowl. > Just like summer. Except it was November 1, and a > tad cooler. :-) From Joseph Smathers From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2003 22:18:28 -0500 Subject: RE: Nice Austin Healey comments I have to kindly disagree. My son ( 30's ), who has grown up with Healey's and had a somewhat lackadaisical attitude about Healey's. He did help with the frame off restoration of our 60 3000 in the early 90's, but did not truly have the love for the cars that I have. Last June he drove our 1955 100 at Summit Point Raceway at Conclave. He won both the Slalom and the Auto Cross,in the 100. Now what a difference. He wants to make sure that he gets a car. We need to get the younger generation to drive the cars. Once driven, HOOKED. Best regards, Joe 1955 100 1960 3000 At 04:33 PM 11/6/2003, Kent McLean wrote: >Alex in Maine wrote: > > It's interesting to me that this "problem" of the next generation's >interest > > seems to pervade my other hobbies, too. > > Is this a commentary on where most of today's kids are at, or is it >really > > something we ought to worry about? > >Who cares if they like Healeys? Seriously. When I was >a kid, I didn't give a hoot about cars that were 40 year old. >Why should today's kids? I really liked the new Jaguar >XKEs, but I could afford a '59 100/6. I'd still like a '67 >E coupe. > >I read some where that the new director of the British >Heritage Motor Museum recognizes that our hobby is >all about memories. And for most, that means cars that >are about 40 years old. For us in our 50s and 60s, that >means cars from the 1960s. For today's kids, they like >cars from the 1990s and 2000s, and in 30 years will be >wishing for that 1990 Miata they got rid of when they >had their first kid. They'll hunt one down and fix it up >for Sunday afternoon rides, and they'll wonder why the >new generation of kids don't like small 4-cylinder >sports cars. > >Kent >'56 100 BN2 > >P.S. I did get to Portland ME for steamers. The day >started out warm and sunny, turned gray when I hit >the NH/ME border, but the rain held off. The ride >home, in the dark, was memorable. We passed an >ice cream stand and stopped for a cone and a bowl. >Just like summer. Except it was November 1, and a >tad cooler. :-) From "Carlos Cruz" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 09:12:00 -0600 Subject: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective I always find this topic interesting for many reasons. I don't consider myself old as it relates to this hobby as I too am like a few on this, in my mid-30's. I bought my Healey a little over five years ago during a search for a TR6. I don't recall why I was drawn to the TR6 since I grew up with a strong fondness for the 60's American muscle cars. But when I saw my "Mistress", a '60 BN7 I knew instantly that was the one. My son (8) and daughter (5) both love riding in the Healey. They're more attuned to its uniqueness than other kids their age probably due to the opportunities in riding in it. When I take one (it's a 2-seater) to soccer practice or other similar activity in the car I often spend a fair amount of time answering questions about the car from other parents, usually fathers. Often I find myself giving rides to the other kids and again usually the fathers after practice. The car is a human magnet. I wouldn't say they're all going to go out and buy one but I do believe it helps to spark of an interest, which hopefully develops. My son, now counts the months until he can drive - thank God it's 7-8 years off. He talks about having his own car. While it may be more common today for a 16 year-old to have their own car, it wasn't like that when I was that age. So we have developed somewhat of an agreement. If he wants a modern car, he will have to earn and save for it. On the other hand, if his interest in old British iron continues, we will start looking for a project car - one he likes when he's about 12. The idea is we will work together on its restoration. The car will be his on his sixteenth birthday providing there's a license in his wallet and lessons either in my Healey or his then finished LBC. I guess my point is, there is interest in our cars (and other things old for that matter) in today's youth. It's like a garden. It just needs a little tending to, a little cultivation and the willingness on the gardner's part (us) to take the time and help the seed grow. Being somewhat in the middle - age wise at least - my thoughts about this hobby and it's growth potential or lack thereof go more toward older people - yep the old farts. This probably goes against the grain because most people on this list and just LBC owners in general fall into this category. As the president of the Midwest Healey club I can honestly say our number one issue for at least as long as I've been involved with this particular club is the growing apathy among Healey owners. Sure, we see new faces including old ones we haven't seen in a very long time. But at the same time there is a growing number of old-timers loosing the mojo for the hobby. Too many believe their cars are museum pieces, to priceless to share, to fragile to drive and enjoy any more. So the cars sit in the garage, under a cover and seldom ever come out anymore. All of this leads me to believe that we, more than any external factor or generation gap, control the direction and future of our hobby. The interest from the young is there, it just needs to be uncovered and cultivated and requires us to re-discover what first attracted us to our cars, our hobby. That's enough for an early Friday morning... I hope you all have a great weekend with the top down. Cheers, Carlos Cruz '60 3000 BN7 - in the garage under cover at the moment ;-) >From: "John Snyder" >Reply-To: "John Snyder" >To: >Subject: Young Healey Fans >Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 17:09:03 -0800 > >Well, guess I will put in my 2 cents. > >In the early 1970s, when our son was 3 or 4, he rode in the back of our >BT7, >because that was our family car. When he was in his teens, we ran that car >up >and down the back road to MT Diablo State Park (in the SF Bay area) at full >throttle. Coming down, we could smell the brakes and the tires. > >He is now in his 30s, and has made me promise that I will give him the >first >chance at the car if I ever decide to sell it. Now his 2 oldest daughters >(6 >and 4) get a big thrill out of riding (slowly) in the rear seats of this 43 >year old car. The car has never been restored, has the original paint, and >the head and pan have never been off of it. > >I took the BT7 to Tahoe last year (because the restoration of my BN7 MK2 >was >not done). My son drove up there to meet me, stuffed his C5 Corvette (he >does >not have the time to restore and maintain a Healey now) in the hotel >garage, >and did not look at again until it was time for him to go home. > >John Snyder > _________________________________________________________________ MSN Messenger with backgrounds, emoticons and more. http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/cdp_customize From "WILLIAM FARMER" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 09:02:22 -0700 Subject: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective Thanks Bill From "Patton Dickson" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 10:30:59 -0600 Subject: RE: torque According to http://www.cramer.com.au/CramerNutBolt/conversion.htm To convert from Inch-Pounds (in.lbs) to Foot-Pounds (ft.ibs) the formula is in.lbs divided by 12 = ft.lbs So 900 / 12 = 75 ft.Ibs Please double check if that formula is correct, I have a in.lbs torque wrench, and have never had to use the conversion before. Patton -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM FARMER Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 10:02 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: I am overhauling my 1960 Healey, I need to know if someone can tell what the torque wrench setting is for the Cylinder Head Nuts. The Austin Healey 100-6 3000 workshop manuel has 900 lb. in. If this is correct, where would I find a wrench with 900 torque setting capacity. Thanks Bill From "Michael Salter" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 12:27:58 -0500 Subject: RE: Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM FARMER Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 11:02 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: I am overhauling my 1960 Healey, I need to know if someone can tell what the torque wrench setting is for the Cylinder Head Nuts. The Austin Healey 100-6 3000 workshop manuel has 900 lb. in. If this is correct, where would I find a wrench with 900 torque setting capacity. Thanks Bill From "Ken Stickle" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 12:40:29 -0500 Subject: Question with the grill I'm hoping to solve a problem in putting everything back together on my 1958 100-6 and need your advice and thoughts. Currently working with the grill noticing 3 brackets on the bottom of the opening that are riveted to the bottom of the front shroud. The brackets hold the bottom of the grille with some screws. A piece of chrome strip goes over the rivets on the bottom of this opening in order to cover the edge of this opening which is below the grille. Anyway, in putting on this piece of chrome which snaps on...the rivets heads distort the chrome finish and looks terrible. Is there a way to attach the brackets without rivets when attaching steel to aluminum shroud? I realize that there should be somewhat of a bend in the middle of the strip but the rivets really add a problem. Can you help??? Thanks for your help! Ken S. 58BN6 From Dave & Marlene From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 10:39:56 -0700 Subject: Re: Torque wrench Dave Russell BN2 WILLIAM FARMER wrote: > I am overhauling my 1960 Healey, I need to know if someone can tell what the > torque wrench setting is for the Cylinder Head Nuts. The Austin Healey 100-6 > 3000 workshop manuel has 900 lb. in. If this is correct, where would I find > a wrench with 900 torque setting capacity. > > Thanks Bill From M Fawcett From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 13:10:09 -0600 Subject: Re: Smitty Conversion Question Mark Fawcett-'59 BT7 Rancho Palos Verdes, CA > > From: James Sailer > Date: 2003/11/06 Thu AM 11:34:49 CST > To: Healey List > Subject: Smitty Conversion Question > > Hi Folks, > > I haven't been able to raise smitty for confiramtion on this application. > Does anyone out there know if a 1995-00 TOYOTA TACOMA manual trans from a > 4cyl, 2 wheel drive will work? > > Thanks. > > James E. Sailer > Xron Associates, Inc. > Office: (208) 524-1363 > Cell: (208) 221-6089 > heliskier@direcway.com From CNAArndt at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 16:51:43 EST Subject: Non Healey - Lotus Elite Questions I have a friend with a very nice original '61 Lotus Elite (Coventry Climax Engine) with a single H-4 carburetor setup and the BMC versus the ZF transmission. He is curious about changing to the twin H-4 carbs and has some questions. How hard is it to find the proper manifold and twin carb set up, with air cleaners linkage and miscellaneous fittings. Will this in help increase the value since it came with the single carb setup, I'm assuming that it should increase the performance? Any leads on websites, links or people who are knowledgeable with this car and who could help answer questions. Cheers, Curt Arndt - too big to fit into most Lotus Cars! Carlsbad, CA '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) From John Peak From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 15:18:47 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective Carlos Cruz wrote: Mornin' Fellow Listers, I always find this topic interesting for many reasons. I don't consider myself old as it relates to this hobby as I too am like a few on this, in my mid-30's. I bought my Healey a little over five years ago during a search for a TR6. I don't recall why I was drawn to the TR6 since I grew up with a strong fondness for the 60's American muscle cars. But when I saw my "Mistress", a '60 BN7 I knew instantly that was the one. My son (8) and daughter (5) both love riding in the Healey. They're more attuned to its uniqueness than other kids their age probably due to the opportunities in riding in it. When I take one (it's a 2-seater) to soccer practice or other similar activity in the car I often spend a fair amount of time answering questions about the car from other parents, usually fathers. Often I find myself giving rides to the other kids and again usually the fathers after practice. The car is a human magnet. I wouldn't say they're all going to go out and buy one but I do believe it helps to spark of an interest, which hopefully develops. My son, now counts the months until he can drive - thank God it's 7-8 years off. He talks about having his own car. While it may be more common today for a 16 year-old to have their own car, it wasn't like that when I was that age. So we have developed somewhat of an agreement. If he wants a modern car, he will have to earn and save for it. On the other hand, if his interest in old British iron continues, we will start looking for a project car - one he likes when he's about 12. The idea is we will work together on its restoration. The car will be his on his sixteenth birthday providing there's a license in his wallet and lessons either in my Healey or his then finished LBC. I guess my point is, there is interest in our cars (and other things old for that matter) in today's youth. It's like a garden. It just needs a little tending to, a little cultivation and the willingness on the gardner's part (us) to take the time and help the seed grow. Being somewhat in the middle - age wise at least - my thoughts about this hobby and it's growth potential or lack thereof go more toward older people - yep the old farts. This probably goes against the grain because most people on this list and just LBC owners in general fall into this category. As the president of the Midwest Healey club I can honestly say our number one issue for at least as long as I've been involved with this particular club is the growing apathy among Healey owners. Sure, we see new faces including old ones we haven't seen in a very long time. But at the same time there is a growing number of old-timers loosing the mojo for the hobby. Too many believe their cars are museum pieces, to priceless to share, to fragile to drive and enjoy any more. So the cars sit in the garage, under a cover and seldom ever come out anymore. All of this leads me to believe that we, more than any external factor or generation gap, control the direction and future of our hobby. The interest from the young is there, it just needs to be uncovered and cultivated and requires us to re-discover what first attracted us to our cars, our hobby. That's enough for an early Friday morning... I hope you all have a great weekend with the top down. Cheers, Carlos Cruz '60 3000 BN7 - in the garage under cover at the moment ;-) --------------------------------- Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 23:39:33 -0000 Subject: Austin Healeys for sale Normal disclaimer applied. regards Tom Tom McCay (AH 3000 BJ8) Classic-Car-World Ltd Tel: 01522 888178 Fax: 0870 7059115 E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.com URL: http://www.classic-car-world.com From Awgertoo at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 19:04:44 EST Subject: Re: Austin Healeys for sale > Normal disclaimer applied Tom-- What is "The normal disclaimer"? Best--Michael From "John Soderling" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 16:15:08 -0800 Subject: Re: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective My two daughters were "out of the nest" before I acquired Erika the Red, so while they consider it a beautiful, cool car and a great hobby for me, they have no deep personal attachment to Healeys. However, my two granddaughters, age 6 and 4, think it is the hottest thing at grandpa's place and insist on rides ever time they are here (see pictures in 9-10/03 Austin Healey Magazine). I get several pictures of Erika from them every month that they have drawn and colored. They love to just sit in the car in the garage and pretend they are driving and racing. Yes, we need to get our Healeys out more for the public to see, appreciate and talk about. I average 5,000 miles a year, mostly around town, to Starbucks and car shows. As a result of people rekindling their love for Healeys from our discussions at the curb or shows, I've had the joy of helping two Erika admirers find their own Healeys to purchase and am currently helping a third individual locate a big Healey. I believe with the right exposure of our cars, they will be well loved and cared for after we exit stage left. Vrooom vrooom, John 100-Six Erika the Red ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carlos Cruz" To: Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 7:12 AM Subject: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective > Mornin' Fellow Listers, > > I always find this topic interesting for many reasons. I don't consider > myself old as it relates to this hobby as I too am like a few on this, in my > mid-30's. I bought my Healey a little over five years ago during a search > for a TR6. I don't recall why I was drawn to the TR6 since I grew up with a > strong fondness for the 60's American muscle cars. But when I saw my > "Mistress", a '60 BN7 I knew instantly that was the one. > > My son (8) and daughter (5) both love riding in the Healey. They're more > attuned to its uniqueness than other kids their age probably due to the > opportunities in riding in it. When I take one (it's a 2-seater) to soccer > practice or other similar activity in the car I often spend a fair amount of > time answering questions about the car from other parents, usually fathers. > Often I find myself giving rides to the other kids and again usually the > fathers after practice. The car is a human magnet. I wouldn't say they're > all going to go out and buy one but I do believe it helps to spark of an > interest, which hopefully develops. > > My son, now counts the months until he can drive - thank God it's 7-8 years > off. He talks about having his own car. While it may be more common today > for a 16 year-old to have their own car, it wasn't like that when I was that > age. So we have developed somewhat of an agreement. If he wants a modern > car, he will have to earn and save for it. On the other hand, if his > interest in old British iron continues, we will start looking for a project > car - one he likes when he's about 12. The idea is we will work together on > its restoration. The car will be his on his sixteenth birthday providing > there's a license in his wallet and lessons either in my Healey or his then > finished LBC. > > I guess my point is, there is interest in our cars (and other things old for > that matter) in today's youth. It's like a garden. It just needs a little > tending to, a little cultivation and the willingness on the gardner's part > (us) to take the time and help the seed grow. > > Being somewhat in the middle - age wise at least - my thoughts about this > hobby and it's growth potential or lack thereof go more toward older people > - yep the old farts. This probably goes against the grain because most > people on this list and just LBC owners in general fall into this category. > As the president of the Midwest Healey club I can honestly say our number > one issue for at least as long as I've been involved with this particular > club is the growing apathy among Healey owners. > > Sure, we see new faces including old ones we haven't seen in a very long > time. But at the same time there is a growing number of old-timers loosing > the mojo for the hobby. Too many believe their cars are museum pieces, to > priceless to share, to fragile to drive and enjoy any more. So the cars sit > in the garage, under a cover and seldom ever come out anymore. > > All of this leads me to believe that we, more than any external factor or > generation gap, control the direction and future of our hobby. The interest > from the young is there, it just needs to be uncovered and cultivated and > requires us to re-discover what first attracted us to our cars, our hobby. > > That's enough for an early Friday morning... I hope you all have a great > weekend with the top down. > > Cheers, > Carlos Cruz > '60 3000 BN7 - in the garage under cover at the moment ;-) From Dennis Broughel From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 19:35:58 -0500 Subject: Fall Drive From skip From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 19:47:06 -0500 Subject: Re: Battery Switch Replacement -skip- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote: > > The battery switch in my wife's 3000 was suspiciously warm (indicating > internal resistance). Not liking to substitute new junk for old, I replaced it with > a Hella Marine Battery Switch model #6EK 002 843, available at West Marine > Stores. It is similar to the switch shown on page 19 of the Moss catalogue > (removable key, etc.) except that it is less money, is rated for 1000 amps at 12 > volts, and most importantly is flange-mounted and it only required cutting two > small pieces of sheet metal to install this in place of the original switch > right through the existing hole. > > Best--Michael Oritt From skip From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 19:48:46 -0500 Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Several Good Things! First: I think Mike should be commended for pointing out a subtlety that could easily have grown into a full up issue. The misuse of the club name for individual profit would not be appropriate. Second: I know that Ried never intended such a misinterpretation of his earlier ebay posting, and he did a fair job of explaining his rationalle. Third: Ried's current listings show an incredible reasonableness and maturity in the face of the problem. He seems to have become sensitive to the possible misinterpretation of the use of the club name (ala Mike's alert observations), but he has graciously and effectively modified his ads to make separate the club affiliation while achieving the wide dissemination of the club's name. I agree that there are lots of ways to interpret the motives of people, but I also believe that all the parties involved were holding the highest motivational and ethical standards at heart. ... and the proof is in the pudding. I'd say congratulations to Mike, to Ried, and to all the other list members that voiced their observations and concerns during the discussion... thanks -skip- (ps... it makes me proud to be a Healey owner and to know all of you vicariously through our love of the net and the marque..) Reid Trummel wrote: > > OK team, please check these out: > > A King Dick Adjustable Spanner: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=35625&item=2440918589 > > Sales Brochure for 3000 Mark II: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3635760001&category=1319 > > Sales Brochure for 100-6: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3635763379&category=1319 > > Set of 3 very rare early Healey sales literature items: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3635772890&category=1319 > > 3 rare Lucas "Flamethrower" driving lights: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34207&item=2440955461 > > Reid Trummel > Portland, Oregon > 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master From Awgertoo at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 20:20:06 EST Subject: Re: Battery Switch Replacement > but does this switch also have the grounding provision.... > remember the black/white wire that runs to the distributor?... > this wire shorts to ground so that any attempt to jump the car > will fail. (in other words, the "batter switch" on a normal > healey does two things (most people only think it does the > battery shutoff). In reality, it is a pretty good theft > prevention device. No, it does not have the "coil grounding provision". But given that it is in a lockable space AND has a removable key, it offers a level of theft prevention that the standard switch does not were someone able to gain access into the boot. However, if you were intent on keeping a "coil grounding" function, you could put in a simple 12 volt relay that, when energized by the battery switch's being in the on position, breaks the coil-ground circuit, etc, etc. Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans From "Bob Spidell" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 17:55:16 -0800 Subject: Re: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective Maybe there's hope ;) bs ******************************************** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M ******************************************** From "Greg Lemon" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 20:00:56 -0600 Subject: Re: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective Couple of teenagers in a Honda, one rolled down the window and said, "that is one cool car man" Another youngster at the tire shop commented that it kind of looked like a Viper. Many other comments, those are the most notable that I can remember. These cars definitely still are of interest to the younger generation, as someone else mentioned, much has been said about this, not really a huge concern, if the younger generation loses interest in these cars maybe I can buy a bunch at bargain prices when I retire. Regards, Greg Lemon 54 BN1 From "Greg Lemon" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 20:04:55 -0600 Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Several Good Things! Happy Healeying (or Healey maintenance/repair/restoration for those of us whose cars have gone into hibernation) Greg Lemon 54 BN1 > I for one have a positive reaction to the whole (earlier) > controversy about usage of the club name and ebay. > > First: I think Mike should be commended for pointing out a > subtlety that could easily have grown into a full up issue. > The misuse of the club name for individual profit would not be > appropriate. > > Second: I know that Ried never intended such a > misinterpretation of his earlier ebay posting, and he did a fair > job of explaining his rationalle. > > Third: Ried's current listings show an incredible reasonableness > and maturity in the face of the problem. He seems to have > become sensitive to the possible misinterpretation of the use of > the club name (ala Mike's alert observations), but he has > graciously and effectively modified his ads to make separate the > club affiliation while achieving the wide dissemination of the > club's name. > > I agree that there are lots of ways to interpret the motives of > people, but I also believe that all the parties involved were > holding the highest motivational and ethical standards at heart. > ... and the proof is in the pudding. > > I'd say congratulations to Mike, to Ried, and to all the other > list members that voiced their observations and concerns during > the discussion... > > thanks > -skip- > > (ps... it makes me proud to be a Healey owner and to know all of > you vicariously through our love of the net and the marque..) > > > > Reid Trummel wrote: > > > > OK team, please check these out: > > > > A King Dick Adjustable Spanner: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=35625&item=2440918589 > > > > Sales Brochure for 3000 Mark II: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3635760001&category=1319 > > > > Sales Brochure for 100-6: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3635763379&category=1319 > > > > Set of 3 very rare early Healey sales literature items: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3635772890&category=1319 > > > > 3 rare Lucas "Flamethrower" driving lights: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34207&item=2440955461 > > > > Reid Trummel > > Portland, Oregon > > 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master From "Rick &7& Neves" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 21:15:48 -0500 Subject: Flywheel surface Is the flywheel surface supposed to be completely flat? On my BN-2 flywheel there are three levels. The level in the center where the clutch touches, an outer level where the pressure plate mounts and a 1/4" space between. I did a quick measurement today on the difference and there looks like the center surface where the clutch touches is 0.010" higher than the outer surface. Of course this is a flywheel that has been in service for 15 years and probably has some where. So my question is what should be the original difference between these surfaces? BTW the 1/4" wide section in between is even lower than the outer section. In addition there happens to be another 100-4 engine in the machine shop and the flywheel on that one is completely flat across the surface. It has also been machined so the outer edge has been removed, undoubted to reduce the mass. Sincerely Rick Neves '56 BN-2 &7& --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.536 / Virus Database: 331 - Release Date: 11/03/2003 From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 21:23:33 EST Subject: Back on Bill Scannell BN-1 From Dave & Marlene From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 20:10:15 -0700 Subject: Re: Back on I don't know if you missed anything important. Look here; http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200311/ Dave Russell Longbridge BN2 BN1HealeyFan@aol.com wrote: > It's good to be back on the Healey net. For some strange reason, I got kicked > off for three days and received nothing. Now, that was lonely! Did I miss > anything really interesting? > > Bill Scannell > BN-1 From SJNNOCK at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 22:28:03 EST Subject: Re: Battery Switch Replacement From Dave & Marlene From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 21:51:46 -0700 Subject: Re: Flywheel surface Sorry that you haven't gotten any answers. Maybe this will spark a response. I don't have a flywheel on the bench to measure. Mike Salter might have the exact answer. I can speculate & suggest; Assuming that you have standard AP clutch cover & disc, a new clutch cover has the pressure plate set back .260" from the cover mounting surface. A new disc has a compressed thickness of .345". If this setup were bolted to a absolutely flat surface there would be .085" of compression (pre-load) on the clutch springs. If the disc wore to a thickness of .260" (extreme case) there would be no pressure on the disc. It seems that a raised center surface is absolutely necessary to achieve more pre-load. I do remember that my flywheel had a raised center section but I didn't measure how much. If the center section is too high there will not be enough travel for complete release. Just off the top of my head I'd think that you would want .100" to .105" of pre-load which would require that the center part be .015 to .020 higher than the cover mounting surface. You might have about .005" wear on the raised center . I don't think that the 1/4" wide part is very critical as long as that part of the flywheel doesn't foul the disc. You might get an idea by assembling your clutch cover & disc to your flywheel & measuring from the cover mounting surface to the top of the small pressure ring that pushes the fingers down. My spec shows this should be from 2.320" to 2.470". Since I don't know the finger ratio, this will not be a direct translation to disc pre-load. Do the same with the other (flat) flywheel & see how close it is to yours. The flat wheel could have been machined for a thicker clutch disc. I think that it is a matter of cut & try to get the 2.320" to 2.470 measurment. You can put shims between your disc & the flywheel surface To get an idea of how high the raised center of the flywheel needs to be to get this measurment. Yes, the entire outer part can be removed to lighten the flywheel. Mind you, this is just speculation & there could be differences in your actual part dimensions. Dave Russell BN2 Rick &7& Neves wrote: > I know I asked this question before But I never got my question answered so > I'll inquire again! > > Is the flywheel surface supposed to be completely flat? > > On my BN-2 flywheel there are three levels. The level in the center where the > clutch touches, an outer level where the pressure plate mounts and a 1/4" > space between. I did a quick measurement today on the difference and there > looks like the center surface where the clutch touches is 0.010" higher than > the outer surface. Of course this is a flywheel that has been in service for > 15 years and probably has some where. > > So my question is what should be the original difference between these > surfaces? > > BTW the 1/4" wide section in between is even lower than the outer section. > > In addition there happens to be another 100-4 engine in the machine shop and > the flywheel on that one is completely flat across the surface. It has also > been machined so the outer edge has been removed, undoubted to reduce the > mass. > > > > > Sincerely > > > Rick Neves > '56 BN-2 From GSFuqua1 at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 00:58:20 EST Subject: Re: Austin Healeys for sale Cheers, Gary From Joseph Smathers From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 09:18:39 -0500 Subject: Re: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective Another on the same vein. During Conclave, on Saturday afternoon, we were to take a leisurely drive through the streets of downtown Washington, DC. Well, there was a festival of some sorts that had clogged the entire downtown area of Washington. It was impossible to stay together and after losing the other cars we decided to head back to Tysons Corner. After sitting at one stop light through 3 light changes a group of young men approached on the sidewalk. One stopped and stared and finally said, "Banging Ride, Dog." That said it all. Best regards, Joe 1955 100 1960 3000 From "Tim Davis" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 08:19:52 -0600 Subject: Re: Flywheel surface Good Luck, Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave & Marlene" To: "Rick &7& Neves" Cc: "Healey list" Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 10:51 PM Subject: Re: Flywheel surface > Hi Rick, > > Sorry that you haven't gotten any answers. Maybe this will spark a response. > > I don't have a flywheel on the bench to measure. Mike Salter might have > the exact answer. I can speculate & suggest; > > Assuming that you have standard AP clutch cover & disc, a new clutch > cover has the pressure plate set back .260" from the cover mounting > surface. A new disc has a compressed thickness of .345". If this setup > were bolted to a absolutely flat surface there would be .085" of > compression (pre-load) on the clutch springs. If the disc wore to a > thickness of .260" (extreme case) there would be no pressure on the disc. > > It seems that a raised center surface is absolutely necessary to > achieve more pre-load. I do remember that my flywheel had a raised > center section but I didn't measure how much. If the center section is > too high there will not be enough travel for complete release. Just off > the top of my head I'd think that you would want .100" to .105" of > pre-load which would require that the center part be .015 to .020 > higher than the cover mounting surface. You might have about .005" wear > on the raised center . > > I don't think that the 1/4" wide part is very critical as long as that > part of the flywheel doesn't foul the disc. > > You might get an idea by assembling your clutch cover & disc to your > flywheel & measuring from the cover mounting surface to the top of the > small pressure ring that pushes the fingers down. My spec shows this > should be from 2.320" to 2.470". Since I don't know the finger ratio, > this will not be a direct translation to disc pre-load. Do the same > with the other (flat) flywheel & see how close it is to yours. The flat > wheel could have been machined for a thicker clutch disc. I think that > it is a matter of cut & try to get the 2.320" to 2.470 measurment. You > can put shims between your disc & the flywheel surface To get an idea > of how high the raised center of the flywheel needs to be to get this > measurment. > > Yes, the entire outer part can be removed to lighten the flywheel. > > Mind you, this is just speculation & there could be differences in your > actual part dimensions. > > Dave Russell > BN2 > > > Rick &7& Neves wrote: > > I know I asked this question before But I never got my question answered so > > I'll inquire again! > > > > Is the flywheel surface supposed to be completely flat? > > > > On my BN-2 flywheel there are three levels. The level in the center where the > > clutch touches, an outer level where the pressure plate mounts and a 1/4" > > space between. I did a quick measurement today on the difference and there > > looks like the center surface where the clutch touches is 0.010" higher than > > the outer surface. Of course this is a flywheel that has been in service for > > 15 years and probably has some where. > > > > So my question is what should be the original difference between these > > surfaces? > > > > BTW the 1/4" wide section in between is even lower than the outer section. > > > > In addition there happens to be another 100-4 engine in the machine shop and > > the flywheel on that one is completely flat across the surface. It has also > > been machined so the outer edge has been removed, undoubted to reduce the > > mass. > > > > > > > > > > Sincerely > > > > > > Rick Neves > > '56 BN-2 From James Sailer From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 07:35:04 -0700 Subject: Re: Smitty conversion Thanks. The list certainly is great!.. Jim Sailer 66 BJ8 - coming along...... From jbpate at attglobal.net From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 11:12:26 -0500 Subject: Radiator clearance From "Jaap Aeckerlin" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 17:51:55 +0100 Subject: Rear end BJ8 Thanks in advance, as usual Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 under reconstruction 1974 BMW 75/6 "If things get better with age them I'm approaching MAGNIFICENT" from the archives. From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 11:58:24 -0500 Subject: RE: Radiator clearance ________________________________ david, you failed to mention the instruction sheet also says now is a good time to check your stabilizer bushings which obviously you didn't. remember the old parable, a word to the wise should be sufficient ? i could have come out to ca and installed it for you, however, that costs more than $45. perhaps you should just enjoy your healey and let some one else take care of the mechanicals. jerry David Smith wrote: > > Chris, > > Thank you for your response. I'm responding to you posting because you made a > very important point. And that is how easy it would be to incorporate your > comments, as well as the comments of others, into the instructions for the Texas > Kooler. Jerry Wall and the NTAHC could simply cut and paste, do some simple > editing, put everything on a single sheet of paper with the word "WARNING" at the > top, and slip it into the box with the fan. Had they done this after the first > discussion of this problem had taken place on the list. I would hold the > blameless. As it stands now, their only warning is " maintain adequate clearance > between the kooler and the radiator". The NTAHC is selling this fan to pay for > their social activities with other people's money. IMO, they should meet the > same level of responsibility as any other commercial vendors or spot running > their "commercials" on this list. > > David > > > Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hi David, > > Every time this issue comes up, I think its sort of ironic that those of us > who race, hillclimb and autocross our healeys - and brake violently up and > down hill, and accelerate as fast as possible - as a regular part of > enjoying our Healeys - never seem to have the same fan clearance/ radiator > destruction problems as some other guys do driving around on the road?? I > can't recall anyone who uses their Healey in competition having this issue. > The only time I have ever had a Healey fan contact my radiator was also > accompanied by a great deal of frontal panel and chassis damage......... > > Did you fit the fan directly onto the pulley, without any spacers? > > I'm not sure what the stock fan to radiator clearance is, but I just went > out & measured that there is 1 inch clearance between the nearest edge of my > 5 blade plastic fan and the core of my radiator. There is slightly less than > 1" to the "top lip" where the tank meets the core (my core is pretty thick - > the top lip is really just a 'seam lip' - the core is within a whisker as > wide as the top tank). > > "cut a groove an inch or more into the core." actually sounds like the > gearbox tie rod bushes are missing, and possibly you also have a broken > engine mount - and I suspect the damage actually happened under > deceleration - when the engine moved forward. > > I have urethane (not rubber) engine & gearbox mounts, and urethane gearbox > to chassis tie rod bushes. I would seriously recommend urethane bushes in > the Gearbox to chassis tie rod (and correct adjustment of the tie rod) - new > rubber bushes - if they get oil soaked - last less than a year (mine did > anyway) - whereas urethane is not affected by oil. And the design & location > means that the chassis tie rod bushes will be oil soaked. > > Have a close look at what moves under eg. hard braking... > > - the radiator is bolted to the chassis > - the engine and gearbox are connected by rubber blocks to the chassis. > > Under hard braking - the engine/gearbox move forward, on the rubber engine > mounts, stopped only by the oil soaked rubber bushes of the gearbox tie rod. > > The cause of the problem isn't flexing plastic blades - or else you could > simulate the problem in the garage and destroy radiators on demand. The > problem is the engine/ gearbox/ tie rod bushes allowing the engine to move - > under deceleration - which allows the fan to contact the radiator. Fix the > mounts and locators - then see if you can destroy any more radiators. > > Best regards > > Chris > ______________________________________ > > Chris Dimmock > Sydney Australia _______________________________________ -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jbpate@attglobal.net Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 11:12 AM To: Healey Subject: Radiator clearance We did some road driving for the first time after a long restoration project. I had a 3 row core installed in the radiator and added a Texas Cooler. Well the fan got into the radiator when we rev'ed the engine up. Can someone send me the depth dimensions of a standard radiator core and how much clearance is needed with the Texas cooler fan installed. I'm not sure that the new radiator core was actually any deeper than the original but would appreciate confirmation. I probably had about 1/2 inch clearance at best between the fan and the core. Barry Pate 1967 MKIII. Barry Pate From "Jim Lesher" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 12:23:54 -0500 Subject: looking for current owner of BN6/L2667 for this BN6 sold on11/13/58 in Tulsa OK. Does anyone have any information? thanks inadvance Jim lesher _________________________________________________________________ Crave some Miles Davis or Grateful Dead? Your old favorites are always playing on MSN Radio Plus. Trial month free! From CAWS52803 at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 12:37:52 EST Subject: Re: looking for current owner of BN6/L2667 From bn1 at pacbell.net From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 10:29:12 -0800 Subject: Re: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective > > One stopped > and stared and finally said, > "Banging Ride, Dog." That said it all. > Which, in this ol' farts terminology means???????? I got into Healeys in 1972. I guess I'm still stuck in the past and just expect a thumbs up or "Cool car!". Bill Barnett '53 BN1 w/'54 M kit Santa Ana, CA From "Michael Salter" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 13:35:53 -0500 Subject: RE: Rear end BJ8 Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jaap Aeckerlin Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 11:52 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Rear end BJ8 Listers, I've met a few problems reconstructing the rear end of my BJ8. The aluminium shroud was restored, and the boot floor is new sheetwork. The place where they meet isn't a beautiful watertight seam, to put it mildly. Should there be a strip of insulating material between the two dissimilar metal flanges? Are the two flanges bolted together, or are pop rivets used? Both flanges are plain now. Furthermore there runs a funny shaped L-iron on the inside of the boot from left to right, just below the boot lid rim. At both ends there are triangular pieces welded to the inside of the mud guard (Is that the right word?) with a large hole in them. I'll have to renew these. Is the hole absolutely necessary or can I just make solid triangles? Finally: U-shaped pieces hold the rear bumper support nuts and are welded to U-shaped pieces of which the right hand one has to welded-in nuts. I take it these nuts are for the battery switch. One of the nut holes is partially covered by the large rear bumper support end. Is this more or less normal (I mean: that parts don't fit) or am I doing something terribly wrong? Thanks in advance, as usual Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 under reconstruction 1974 BMW 75/6 "If things get better with age them I'm approaching MAGNIFICENT" From APPRAISE11 at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 13:48:56 EST Subject: bj7 transmission and overdrive i have just rebuilt transmission on my bj7and installed new clutch. overdrive was not re-built because it was working just fine. after all this work overdrive now engages and dis-engages when driving and takes a while to kick in. transmission works just fine till you try to use overdrive. any ideas what to look for or what might be wrong. mitch 1963 bj7 From "Peter Schauss" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 13:56:25 -0500 Subject: RE: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective Peter Schauss 1980 MGB 1963 BJ7 From =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ulf_H=E5kansson_privat?= From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 21:15:54 +0100 Subject: Looking for tools These are the tools I currently miss: -Knock off hammer with lead face and rubber cap -Jack handles + tommy bar for the King Dick jack -Extractor for front hub dust caps -Ignition gauge (Lucas) with integral screwdriver blade -Spark plug/tappet clearance feeler gauge -Rear axle drain plug key(7/16 x 1.5 long) -Box wrench (tubular, six side), 1/4" x 5/16"W -Box wrench (tubular, six side), for spark plug -Tappet screw wrench, double ended "Austin" -Tire valve tool -Valve grinding tool If anybody out there has any of these items to sell or know where I can find them, Please contact me on the below e-mail address. Thanks Ulf BN2/55 (Sweden) e-mail: hakansson.ulf@telia.com From "Alex" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 19:05:44 -0500 Subject: RE: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective Then, before I left the station, a guy in his fifties came over to admire the machinery. Turns out he restores old convertible VWs! But, he fondly remembers his A-H experiences years ago. Lotsa fun. == Alex in Maine 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie" Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8 Amateur Radio AI2Q http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm .-.-. -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Peter Schauss Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 1:56 PM To: Greg Lemon; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: RE: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective Two years ago on Halloween, I opened the front door to give out candy to a couple of 10 year old boys. They said, "Thank you" and then, "Oh, you're the guy with the cool cars." Peter Schauss 1980 MGB 1963 BJ7 From "Bob Spidell" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 16:35:29 -0800 Subject: Re: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective "Nice ride" My son was impressed. bs ******************************************** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M ******************************************** From Blue One Hundred From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 20:26:54 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective Alan '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 --- bn1@pacbell.net wrote: > Joseph Smathers wrote: > > > > > > One stopped > > and stared and finally said, > > "Banging Ride, Dog." That said it all. > > > > Which, in this ol' farts terminology means???????? > > I got into Healeys in 1972. I guess I'm still stuck > in the past and just expect > a thumbs up or "Cool car!". > > Bill Barnett > '53 BN1 w/'54 M kit > Santa Ana, CA From SJNNOCK at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 00:21:42 EST Subject: Re: bj7 transmission and overdrive * * * * * * * * * * Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + $4.00 S H . SOLD over 1600 copies A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205 From "Esko & Megan Cate" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 21:22:39 -0800 Subject: Mounting BJ7 grill, surround and grill hood The front end should be jacked up (on jack stands) with one wheel and its splash panel and steady bracket removed. The air deflectors should be out or at least loosened. The surround has six tabs that will be used to fix it to the body and other parts. Do not attempt to bend these tabs. The straight tabs are down. The lip of the surround will eventually fit outside of the edge of the body opening. The surround goes in from the front, turning it and jockeying it up and down to slip the entire unit inside the opening (this requires some space inside which is why the air deflectors have to be at least loosened). Now the trick is to get the lip outside the opening edge by shifting it right and left. First, drop the surround slightly and bring its top forward so that the lip is outside the top part of the opening (where the opening edge has three extensions down for the top surround fasteners). Then shift it to the right (or left, whichever appeals to you), and pull the other end forward, outside the opening edge. As you shift it back to the center, most of the lower lip will come forward, leaving only the right end to be done. Pull the left end of the surround well forward and shift the surround to the left. There is enough play to get the surround left lip well outside the whole body at the left end of the opening so that the surround will shift about an inch left of center. Then the right end can be brought through and the surround shifted back to center. Voila, the surround is in. Here it is worth suggesting that two people work together on this step. The left lip should be held well forward so that it does not scrape the paint while shifting the surround left and right and pulling the right end out. The grill hood is slipped onto the surround ends by pulling the surround forward. Again, two sets of hands will help avoid paint scrapes. Hold off putting nuts on the fixed bolts on the ends of the grill hood until the top studs are in. Now before inserting the grill, install the studs, top and bottom. The top studs are not available from Moss but can be created by cutting off about an inch and a half from a quarter inch fine thread bolt. Using studs for the top fasteners allows them to be installed at this point in the process and still be able to slip the grill tabs on. It would be nearly impossible to insert bolts in those top positions after the grill is in place. The surround and grill hood may need to be jockeyed a bit to get the holes to line up so the top studs can be threaded in. To assist, you can lock two nuts onto the stud to give purchase and the ability to use a wrench on the stud. Insert the stud enough that you can feel that the stud is all the way through the fixed nut on the grill hood. The bottom two studs are available from Moss and after inserted, install nuts on the forward end and tighten these up. After the studs are in place, the top center one can have the inside nut added and tightened up. Also, the short bolt for the bottom surround bracket can be installed and the two small fixed bolts on the grill hood can have nuts installed and tightened. The two spire nuts can be put in place on the center surround tabs for later attaching the grill center tabs. If working alone, the air deflectors should be set in place now and the top fasteners installed (while you can reach both ends at the same time). They can be left out till the grill is in place and the top grill tabs finished if you have two sets of hands. The grill is then inserted from the side that has the wheel and splash panel removed. The top grill tabs are slotted while the bottom, outside two are holes. Once on the studs, finish the top tabs first (a classic bad location for tightening these nuts). The bottom two studs also handle the bottoms of the air deflectors and the splash panel steady brackets. The two center grill tabs are fastened with bolts into the spire nuts previously discussed. Now, sit back and admire your work (and hope you never have to do it again). Esko BJ7 From Richard Gordon From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 22:57:10 -0700 Subject: Speaking of first drives... http://homepage.mac.com/juli_richard_gordon/PhotoAlbum9.html Bring back any memories? Tomorrow should be a good day for a Healey drive here in Denver, anyone want to join me? Best wishes, Richard From Dave & Marlene From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 23:09:43 -0700 Subject: Re: Young & Old Healey Fans - a slightly different perspective It was a compliment. Looked it up in a couple of slang dictionaries. Part of the growing up/independence process for kids is to use language old farts don't understand. Don't you remember? For that matter many grown up professional groups of people use jargon that outsiders don't understand. Part of feeling exclusive. Part short cut. banging Adj. Exciting, energetic, wonderful, excellent. Usually pronounced bangin. banging v 1. to be very attractive. ("She's banging!") bangin': Very kewl or good, Example: That shirt is bangin'. ride n 1. an automobile. ("That's a cool ride.") ride: a person's vehicle. dog n 1. an unattractive person. ("They're such a dog!") 2. a friend. ("What's up, dog?" "He's my dog.") dawg: A salutation teenage boys use with each other-- Example: John: Hey, Dawg, what's up? Dawg (Lee, in this case): Nothin', J-man. dog: a close, trusted friend- man's best friend. Dave Russell Joseph Smathers wrote: > Greg, > > Another on the same vein. > After sitting at one stop light through 3 > light changes a group of young men approached on the sidewalk. One stopped > and stared and finally said, > "Banging Ride, Dog." That said it all. > > Best regards, Joe > > 1955 100 > 1960 3000 From Pat & Gary Rice From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 22:09:05 -0800 Subject: Re: Healey sighting From Dave & Marlene From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 23:26:42 -0700 Subject: Re: bj7 transmission and overdrive Here are some web sites that go into OD troubles. http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars/tech_talk/overdrive_frame.htm http://www.ntahc.org./techtips/OVERDRIVE1.html http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Over.html Good luck, Dave Russell BN2 APPRAISE11@aol.com wrote: > hey all, > > i have just rebuilt transmission on my bj7and installed new clutch. overdrive > was not re-built because it was working just fine. after all this work > overdrive now engages and dis-engages when driving and takes a while to kick in. > transmission works just fine till you try to use overdrive. any ideas what to > look for or what might be wrong. > > mitch > 1963 bj7 From Simonlachlan at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 07:17:57 EST Subject: Austin 4 litre and exhaust questions I've been offered a number of diffs including one from a Westminster "4 litre". Was there such a thing and will its diff be compatible with my BT7, MkII? It was, he claims, an automatic so it should be 3:54?? The guy's price per complete axle is very good, so if there's anyone who's interested, send me an email in a week+/- and I'll know what he's got. (I've had these type of contacts before and they've all come to naught so I'm not getting my hopes up.) And, bear in mind that I'm not exactly handily placed for, say, Australia! (Not that anyone over there is worrying about back axles with the Rugby on their door step!) A friend's friend says he can fabricate an exhaust system for my BT7 which goes over the rear axle and raises the whole system considerably. He must be thinking of BJ8s?? I don't think there will be much chance under my MkII???? My car is RHDrive, being in UK. Has anyone much experience of a side exit system for RHDs? I suppose it would be noisier for the driver, but not much?? Simon. From "James R. Holekamp" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 08:50:32 -0600 Subject: BJ8 Transmission & Overdrive I noticed your O/D troubles on the Healey List. A pressure test will go a long way in diagnosing the problem. A while back I had some O/D Oil Pressure Gauge Sets made up ( I wanted one for myself and the machine shop work was less costly in quantity) and have a few left - details can be seen at: http://www.geocities.com/jholekamp/index.html brgds, Jay From Earl Kagna From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 10:16:36 -0800 Subject: Re: Rear end BJ8 Maybe a little bit of clarification - I am in the process of a complete restoration on the BJ8 - Dismantled the car starting in August, and just got it back from the body shop on Friday, ready to be reassembled it, so all that rear shroud / chassis stuff is pretty fresh in my mind. There are 13 rivets in the lower rear shroud boot opening / frame 'hoop' juncture, (your funny shaped 'L' iron, Jack, as well as the three larger holes for the rubber buffers), and 19 in the bottom skirt / boot floor flange. The lower lip of the shroud / boot floor juncture should be made to be a relatively good fit when final assembly is done - the rivets will usually draw it up sufficiently. Most restorers will get primer and paint on both the chassis and the shroud inners, so that electorytic corrosion will not be a problem. The joint should be seam sealed in the normal fashion from inside the boot after final assembly. The original aluminum 'tinners' rivets were in 1/8" holes, and were flat-topped and not countersunk. These rivets are apparently available from several sources, but the problem would seem to be a proper bucking tool to install them. Since all of the holes were in perfect shape, we used 1/8" pop rivets and some body filler to give them the 'original' shape - with the paint on it worked really well and undoubtedly would not upset a concours judge if I were so inclined with this car! (I'm not) There was no body repair work done in the boot area or the car - the holes in the gussets are pressed in to give a clean edge. I always assumed that the reason for that was to not damage the tail light wiring that passes through the hole. I guess it would be no big deal to omit the hole - as Mike says, it depends on how correct one wants to be. The U-channel right rear extension that was mentioned does have a couple of captive nuts - they're for the battery master switch bracket as you assumed. I suspect something wrong with the postioning - on my car, the front captive nut hole is clear of the frame extension by about 3/4 ". Hope this helps a bit. Earl Kagna Victoria, B. C. Canada '62 BT7 tri-carb '67 BJ8 - under restoration BTW: My restorer has done several Healeys - he has a nifty 'Canadian' solution to the issue of sealing / caulking between the fender and shroud flages when assembling the body, particularly at the rear - hockey tape! He simply tapes the fender flanges before the fender is installed - no muss, no fuss. I've done it many other ways, but as long as the flanges have primer and paint on them, this seems the easiest, and best of all, it's not too thick. I'll do it this way when the body is being assembled for the final time ----------- EK ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: "'Jaap Aeckerlin'" ; Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 10:35 AM Subject: RE: Rear end BJ8 Hi Jack, (Never say that in a plane) ;-) There was no insulating material between the boot floor flange and the rear shroud flange, although I have seen some with caulking in the joint. These were originally joined using solid aluminium rivers, not the pop rivets that most people use. I can't remember if they were round or countersunk heads, but I seem to remember countersunk. The flange was also painted satin black when finished BTW. The corner gussets that you mention did have lightening holes in them, it depends how original you want to be. The last one doesn't sound right but would be easier if you sent me a picture. Hope that helps. Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jaap Aeckerlin Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 11:52 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Rear end BJ8 Listers, I've met a few problems reconstructing the rear end of my BJ8. The aluminium shroud was restored, and the boot floor is new sheetwork. The place where they meet isn't a beautiful watertight seam, to put it mildly. Should there be a strip of insulating material between the two dissimilar metal flanges? Are the two flanges bolted together, or are pop rivets used? Both flanges are plain now. Furthermore there runs a funny shaped L-iron on the inside of the boot from left to right, just below the boot lid rim. At both ends there are triangular pieces welded to the inside of the mud guard (Is that the right word?) with a large hole in them. I'll have to renew these. Is the hole absolutely necessary or can I just make solid triangles? Finally: U-shaped pieces hold the rear bumper support nuts and are welded to U-shaped pieces of which the right hand one has to welded-in nuts. I take it these nuts are for the battery switch. One of the nut holes is partially covered by the large rear bumper support end. Is this more or less normal (I mean: that parts don't fit) or am I doing something terribly wrong? Thanks in advance, as usual Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 under reconstruction 1974 BMW 75/6 "If things get better with age them I'm approaching MAGNIFICENT" From "Peter Hunt" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 18:24:17 -0000 Subject: Side Exhausts. In answer to your query about a side exhaust system for a Mk II BT7, I tried this many years ago on my ' 63 BJ7. It was very easy to do as I just took off the existing twin pipes from just after the silencer, turned them over 180 degrees and cut the two pipes parallel to the sill in front of the rear wheel. Obviously by doing this you will sacrifice the pipes and would have to buy new if, an when, your passenger goes deaf in the left ear! It is not much more noisy for the driver, just sportier! I cannot remember as to how easy (or difficult) it was to attach the short twin pipes to the rubber mounting point necessary to hold up the silencer at the rear - but by no means impossible. Apart from the noise factor, the only other disadvantage is that the pipes will corrode quicker as the water thrown off the rear tyre in wet weather is constantly being dumped on them. You could go up market and get the pipes plated or chromed. Incidently, I went back to the full length system on the insistance of my wife. There was a similar enquiry two or three months ago about converting to side exhaust from someone in the USA. For a Left Hand Drive Healey with a side exhaust - speaking from experience with my ATW 2000 BT7, you will probably end up with a earplug in your left ear or a full set of ear defenders. I tried this ATW in 2000 and found that, with the significant reduction in noise, I drove considerably faster with near disastrous effects at times. Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2003 12:17 PM Subject: Austin 4 litre and exhaust questions > I have questions for the experts:- > > I've been offered a number of diffs including one from a Westminster "4 > litre". Was there such a thing and will its diff be compatible with my BT7, MkII? > It was, he claims, an automatic so it should be 3:54?? The guy's price per > complete axle is very good, so if there's anyone who's interested, send me an > email in a week+/- and I'll know what he's got. (I've had these type of contacts > before and they've all come to naught so I'm not getting my hopes up.) And, > bear in mind that I'm not exactly handily placed for, say, Australia! (Not that > anyone over there is worrying about back axles with the Rugby on their door > step!) > > A friend's friend says he can fabricate an exhaust system for my BT7 which > goes over the rear axle and raises the whole system considerably. He must be > thinking of BJ8s?? I don't think there will be much chance under my MkII???? > > My car is RHDrive, being in UK. Has anyone much experience of a side exit > system for RHDs? I suppose it would be noisier for the driver, but not much?? > > Simon. From Jonathan and Carole Quandt From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 11:04:27 -0800 Subject: H6 intake manifolds needed From Jonathan and Carole Quandt From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 11:14:05 -0800 Subject: 100-4 front springs From SJNNOCK at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 16:08:28 EST Subject: Re: Rear end BJ8 From Blue One Hundred From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 17:46:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Speaking of first drives... Nice picture! You may want to refresh the Draught Excluders around the door jams... your car looks a little breezy! Thanks for sharing a great picture... Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Richard Gordon wrote: > I remember my first drive in a Healey very well. It > was not all that > long ago, the winter of 1991, I was 45. Prior to > 1989 I didn't even > know what a Healey was. I had owned a 1969 Triumph > TR6, but must have > had tunnel vision. Go to: > > http://homepage.mac.com/juli_richard_gordon/PhotoAlbum9.html > > Bring back any memories? > > Tomorrow should be a good day for a Healey drive > here in Denver, > anyone want to join me? > > Best wishes, > Richard From Healeyolic From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 21:17:50 -0500 Subject: Re: Speaking of first drives... John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blue One Hundred" To: "Richard Gordon" ; Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2003 8:46 PM Subject: Re: Speaking of first drives... | Richard - | | Nice picture! You may want to refresh the Draught | Excluders around the door jams... your car looks a | little breezy! Thanks for sharing a great picture... | | Alan | | '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 | | --- Richard Gordon wrote: | > I remember my first drive in a Healey very well. It | > was not all that | > long ago, the winter of 1991, I was 45. Prior to | > 1989 I didn't even | > know what a Healey was. I had owned a 1969 Triumph | > TR6, but must have | > had tunnel vision. Go to: | > | > | http://homepage.mac.com/juli_richard_gordon/PhotoAlbum9.html | > | > Bring back any memories? | > | > Tomorrow should be a good day for a Healey drive | > here in Denver, | > anyone want to join me? | > | > Best wishes, | > Richard From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net> From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 03:23:13 -0800 Subject: Re: Speaking of first drives... Way COOL pix. Are you sure it's a Healey, kinda looks like a Morgan to me. Kirk Kvam ;-) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Gordon" To: Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 9:57 PM Subject: Speaking of first drives... > I remember my first drive in a Healey very well. It was not all that > long ago, the winter of 1991, I was 45. Prior to 1989 I didn't even > know what a Healey was. I had owned a 1969 Triumph TR6, but must have > had tunnel vision. Go to: > > http://homepage.mac.com/juli_richard_gordon/PhotoAlbum9.html > > Bring back any memories? > > Tomorrow should be a good day for a Healey drive here in Denver, > anyone want to join me? > > Best wishes, > Richard From "Peter Linn" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 22:35:31 +1000 Subject: Re: Speaking of first drives... Thought you might like see the attached - you're not the only one who couldn't wait till it's finished! (MGTD circa 1978, UK). I'd taken the car to pieces in 3 days in 1977, took 3 years to put it back together. I couldn't afford a Healey at the time - took me another 25 years! All the best Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Ward Spl coupe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Gordon" To: Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2003 3:57 PM Subject: Speaking of first drives... > I remember my first drive in a Healey very well. It was not all that > long ago, the winter of 1991, I was 45. Prior to 1989 I didn't even > know what a Healey was. I had owned a 1969 Triumph TR6, but must have > had tunnel vision. Go to: > > http://homepage.mac.com/juli_richard_gordon/PhotoAlbum9.html > > Bring back any memories? > > Tomorrow should be a good day for a Healey drive here in Denver, > anyone want to join me? > > Best wishes, > Richard [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TD drive0107.JPG] From "Bob Spidell" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 05:26:48 -0800 Subject: Tire Planned Obsolescence bs ******************************************** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M ******************************************** From Roland Wilhelmy From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 07:56:52 -0800 Subject: Re: Rear end BJ8 Norman's rivets were longer than will set so the rivets first have to be cut to the proper length. -Roland BN1 in recovery On Sun, 9 Nov 2003 16:08:28 EST, Norman Nock wrote: ::Earl .. I assume you have our Rare and Hard to Find Parts Catalog check page ::# 2 for shroud rivets .. Regards Norman Nock From "Freese, Ken" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 07:57:15 -0800 Subject: RE: Radiator clearance From "Douglas W. Flagg" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 12:07:14 -0500 Subject: Re: 100-4 Exhaust Manifold Happy Healeying, Doug ________________________________________________________________ From Alan Bromfield From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 17:49:14 -0000 Subject: RE: Rear end BJ8 Alan Bromfield Nice BJ8 and a 'Project' BN4 http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.bromfield/ -----Original Message----- From: Roland Wilhelmy [mailto:rwil@sbcglobal.net] Sent: 10 November 2003 15:57 To: SJNNOCK@aol.com Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Rear end BJ8 An aircraft-building friend's beautiful stainless steel tong-type hand tool allowed me to set 19 of Norman Nock's correct-headed rivets in about 10 minutes. I assume that Aircraft Spruce and other such companies stock this tool but a helpful friend would be a lot less costly. Norman's rivets were longer than will set so the rivets first have to be cut to the proper length. -Roland BN1 in recovery The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal attention of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract. ntl Group Limited From Roland Wilhelmy From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 11:07:19 -0800 Subject: Re: Rear end BJ8 My friend's tool was the same, functionally as the one below, but a work of art to see and hold as well. I am sure it's no longer available. Here is what is currently available and should do the job just fine. It's in Aircraft Spruce and Specialtly Co.'s catalog, at least the older one that I have. Here's the text and the part number: "Hand Rivet Squeezer made in USA Designed to squeeze 1/16" - 5/32" rivets and dimple 1/16" - 3/16" in material up to .040" thickness. Takes standard 3/16" shank rivet squeezer sets. With adjustable ram and two piece C-yoke of heat treated 4130 steel. Throat depth 1-1/4" Gap 1-1/4". Overall length 14". Best quality squeezer on the market." squeezer P/N 12-003000 [ Was $114.00 in 1995.] 2" yoke P/N 12-00310 [was $53.00 in 1995] rivet cutter P/N 12-00200 [was $12.95] The rivet cutter is worth the money. Otherwise you have to cut (somehow) and then deburr a true squared end of each rivet. The only fun was getting the car's rear end in position high enough to reach the rivets. You need some room for tool and arms and shoulders. I am sure Aircraft Spruce has a website now. It didn't in 1995. I think their warehouses are in Corona Calif. and probably somewhere in the midwest, too. -Roland On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 17:49:14 -0000, you wrote: ::Hey Roland. ::That's is a brilliant piece of knowledge - a tool that is proven to do the ::job. Now, what does it look like? ::Have you found a picture anywhere on the net that I could check out, or ::perhaps an Aircraft Spruce part number? :: ::Alan Bromfield ::Nice BJ8 and a 'Project' BN4 From "Freese, Ken" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 11:13:44 -0800 Subject: RE: Rear end rivets From John Loftus From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 11:25:42 -0800 Subject: Re: Rear end BJ8 >I am sure Aircraft Spruce has a website now. It didn't in 1995. I >think their warehouses are in Corona Calif. and probably somewhere in >the midwest, too. > > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/handrivetsqueezer.php From "Ed Adams" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 14:35:45 -0500 Subject: Re: Speaking of first drives... Ed Adams BN-1L 227550 -----Original Message----- From: Richard Gordon To: healeys@autox.team.net Date: Sunday, November 09, 2003 1:35 AM Subject: Speaking of first drives... >I remember my first drive in a Healey very well. It was not all that >long ago, the winter of 1991, I was 45. Prior to 1989 I didn't even >know what a Healey was. I had owned a 1969 Triumph TR6, but must have >had tunnel vision. Go to: From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net> From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 11:35:50 -0800 Subject: CA. FIRE Yesterday about noon, Verizon finally decided to reconnect my land line phone service. Had about 800 e-mails, numerous concerning my welfare. I Thank You and Marilee (and ALL) for your concern and offer of help. All is safe around here, a few scorches to the buildings, nothing a little time and effort won't correct. All 'Healeys', cars and trucks are unscathed except for the smoke, soot, and ash. Oh well, I needed to dust them off before the fire. My heart and soul go out to those 300+ homeowners near and around me who lost everything and I mean everything. I took a short tour of the immediate area Saturday and observed numerous homeowners cars and other vehicles they had backed up to their homes for loading and evacuation totally destroyed. The fire was so fast moving (40-50 + mph Santa Ana winds) they had no chance but to flee with only the clothes on their backs. Much more could be said about the horrifying experiences of this Wild Fire Storm, I only hope and pray no one ever has to experience a similar situation. I can only imagine the night mares those less fortunate than me are having, as last night I was awakened by one. LEST WE (I) FORGET THE SIX TRUCKS OF "CDF" FIREFIGHTERS WHO MADE A STAND NINE HOUSES NORTH OF ME. 12 OF THE 15 HOMES NORTH OF THEIR LINE BURNED.. Thanks again, Kirk. ps. "In God We (I) Trust". Don't EVER let them take that away from US. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Blubaugh" To: "Kirk Kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net> Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2003 8:50 PM Subject: Today's interview > Just noticed that I failed to give you a phone number! If I can help > . . . . . . > > (909) 861- home > (213) 300- cell > > Terry > > > Hi Kirk, > > Sure hope this email gets through to you. I happened to catch the last > part of your interview with CBS Ch 2 this afternoon. I know the fire > was burning homes on 39th St. and Waterman in San Bernadino, and I did > not know where you lived. Imagine my shock when I checked the club > directory, and saw that you live on 40th St.! > > I know you have a lot on your plate right now, but I wanted to check to > see if you're OK. If there is anything I can do to help, just let me > know. If you need some storage space, perhaps for a spare Healey, just > give me a call. I'm retired, and only an hour away. Good luck. > > Terry Blubaugh > Diamond Bar, CA From "James Shope" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 08:32:14 -0800 Subject: email From STOCKLAND at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 17:32:03 EST Subject: Re: Brake Fluid Bleed Valve Thanks, Jon From "Keith Pennell" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 17:38:35 -0500 Subject: Re: Question with the grill FYI That strip is stainless. Check it out with a magnet - minimal attraction. Keith Pennell > Hi to all subscribers and Healey Lovers alike...... > > > > I'm hoping to solve a problem in putting everything back together on my > 1958 100-6 and need your advice and thoughts. > > > > Currently working with the grill noticing 3 brackets on the bottom of > the opening that are riveted to the bottom of the front shroud. The > brackets hold the bottom of the grille with some screws. A piece of > chrome strip goes over the rivets on the bottom of this opening in order > to cover the edge of this opening which is below the grille. > > > > Anyway, in putting on this piece of chrome which snaps on...the rivets > heads distort the chrome finish and looks terrible. > > > > Is there a way to attach the brackets without rivets when attaching > steel to aluminum shroud? I realize that there should be somewhat of a > bend in the middle of the strip but the rivets really add a problem. > > > > Can you help??? > > > > Thanks for your help! > > > > Ken S. > > 58BN6 From "GRB" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 18:50:08 -0500 Subject: temporarily stranded I strongly suspect the actual key switch in the dash, so can some one walk me thru shorting the started motor under the bonnet, so I can get home tonight? Please consider- very dark parking lot very little visual memory of what the under-bonnet terrain looks like! Yes, my wife can come and pick me up but very inconvenient and will be my last resort. Thanks in advance Gary B late BJ-8 gbrierton@hotmail.com From "BJ8Healeys" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 18:52:32 -0500 Subject: Re: Radiator clearance Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA ----- Original Message ----- From: Freese, Ken To: 'jbpate@attglobal.net' ; Healey Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 10:57 AM Subject: RE: Radiator clearance Do the different styles of waterpump pulleys put the fan at different distances? Ken Freese 65 BJ8 From "Frakes, Jim" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 19:03:04 -0500 Subject: Install and align rear end Jim Frakes From "James Lea" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 19:25:21 -0500 Subject: Re: temporarily stranded From Earl Kagna From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 17:08:26 -0800 Subject: Re: temporarily stranded Bummer! Try and manually activate the starter solenoid inside the engine compartment. If it is an OE solenoid, it will have a rubber covered 'button' on it's back side. Push it forward. The solenoid is located on the inside of the passenger foot box, just to the rear of the original oil filter location. 2 CAUTIONS! Make sure that the gearbox is in neutral, and - the starter will crank the engine with the key off, as well as on. If it cranks at all, it should fire with the key on - you may have to do a bit of a dance with the chokes / accelerator linkage to get it running. If you are successful with this method, you likely have a faulty solenoid. Let us know ------------ Earl Kagna Victoria, B. C. Canada '62 BT7 tri-carb '67 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "GRB" To: Cc: Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 3:50 PM Subject: temporarily stranded Drove the Healey to work and when I tried to start it tonight, the following: 1. turned the key, got the usual good cranking 2. it usually takes about for or five tries in this weather (<55 f), so I continued 3. on try#5, the key turns, the red light comes on, but then NOTHING 4. each time thereafter = nothing. I strongly suspect the actual key switch in the dash, so can some one walk me thru shorting the started motor under the bonnet, so I can get home tonight? Please consider- very dark parking lot very little visual memory of what the under-bonnet terrain looks like! Yes, my wife can come and pick me up but very inconvenient and will be my last resort. Thanks in advance Gary B late BJ-8 From "John Rowe" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 09:29:52 +0800 Subject: Fw: Austin 4 litre and exhaust questions Can't say there was much difference to the driver in my car with the rear or side exhausts. The navigator says she definitely prefers the rear exhaust but Healeys are just noisy cars aren't they - certainly are compared to a her 99 Honda Accord. Cheers from Oz John Rowe Perth Western Australia 1959 BT7 restored 1967 BJ8 still to do. From Jerry Wall From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 19:49:42 -0600 Subject: Re: Brake Fluid Bleed Valve From "Gary R. Brierton" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 21:55:11 -0500 Subject: temporarily stranded From Dave Carpenter From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 22:31:45 -0500 Subject: Re: Install and align rear end Dave Frakes, Jim wrote: >List, Need some advice on how to install and align Healey rear axle. Do >we measure off the shock bracket on the frame and make sure both sides >read the same. Building up a BN4 with Jule frame. All ideas appreciated. > > >Jim Frakes From Dave Carpenter From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 22:35:54 -0500 Subject: Re: Brake Fluid Bleed Valve Dave Jerry Wall wrote: >use hex-head wrench and try shocking the bleeder valve with medium strikes of the wrench with a small hammer. if you twist the wrench, you will surely twist off the heads of the valves. >STOCKLAND@aol.com wrote: > > > > On my BJ8, the brake bleed valves on all wheels are frozen from rust, etc. > > Does any one have any suggestions how to loosen them without breaking them off > > at the seat? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Jon > > > > * From Jon McLeroy From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 21:51:29 -0600 Subject: Re: Brake Fluid Bleed Valve Take a small wire brush and clean around the valve then spray liberally with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or other good penetrating product--let soak. Then re spray --let soak. Repeat as necessary. Use a 6 sided long reach socket and try not to break it. It seems out of the 4 there will be one that defies physics and will break. So Pray ;-). Jon At 05:32 PM 11/10/03 -0500, you wrote: >On my BJ8, the brake bleed valves on all wheels are frozen from rust, etc. >Does any one have any suggestions how to loosen them without breaking them >off >at the seat? > >Thanks, > >Jon Classic Auto Lubes 12803 CR 1222 Tyler, Tx. 75709 Ph: 903-561-4858 Fax: 903-561-7177 Email: jfm@spyderinternet.com www.classicautolubes.com -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by our MailScanner, and is believed to be clean. From "Kenny Johnson" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 20:28:24 -0800 Subject: Bleeding clutch/brakes Once I get the clutch and brakes working, I'll be finally driving my chassis. Kenny 61 BT-7 _________________________________________________________________ >From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always playing on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE! From "tom felts" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 23:44:39 -0500 Subject: Re: temporarily stranded > [Original Message] > From: Earl Kagna > To: GRB ; Healey List > Date: 11/10/03 8:15:36 PM > Subject: Re: temporarily stranded > > Gary: > > Bummer! Try and manually activate the starter solenoid inside the engine > compartment. If it is an OE solenoid, it will have a rubber covered > 'button' on it's back side. Push it forward. The solenoid is located on the > inside of the passenger foot box, just to the rear of the original oil > filter location. > > 2 CAUTIONS! Make sure that the gearbox is in neutral, and - the starter will > crank the engine with the key off, as well as on. If it cranks at all, it > should fire with the key on - you may have to do a bit of a dance with the > chokes / accelerator linkage to get it running. > > If you are successful with this method, you likely have a faulty solenoid. > > Let us know ------------ > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B. C. Canada > '62 BT7 tri-carb > '67 BJ8 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "GRB" > To: > Cc: > Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 3:50 PM > Subject: temporarily stranded > > > Drove the Healey to work and when I tried to start it tonight, the > following: > 1. turned the key, got the usual good cranking > 2. it usually takes about for or five tries in this weather (<55 f), so I > continued > 3. on try#5, the key turns, the red light comes on, but then NOTHING > 4. each time thereafter = nothing. > > I strongly suspect the actual key switch in the dash, so can some one walk > me > thru shorting the started motor under the bonnet, so I can get home tonight? > Please consider- very dark parking lot > very little visual memory of what the under-bonnet > terrain looks like! > > Yes, my wife can come and pick me up but very inconvenient and will be my > last > resort. > Thanks in advance > > Gary B > late BJ-8 > > * From "Quinn, Patrick" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:49:00 +1100 Subject: RE: Non Healey - Lotus Elite Questions Sorry for taking a little time on this but I had to refer to a Lotus Elite owning friend. He says that there are strong clubs in the UK and USA with full technical/parts support and chat groups specifically for the model. Your friend should contact/join: The UK mob at- johnmead@lotuselite.freeserve.co.uk The USA mob at- http://www.clubelitena.com/index.html Or ONE of the chat groups at- http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Lotus_14/ Regards Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: CNAArndt@aol.com [mailto:CNAArndt@aol.com] Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 8:52 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Non Healey - Lotus Elite Questions Hi All, I have a friend with a very nice original '61 Lotus Elite (Coventry Climax Engine) with a single H-4 carburetor setup and the BMC versus the ZF transmission. He is curious about changing to the twin H-4 carbs and has some questions. How hard is it to find the proper manifold and twin carb set up, with air cleaners linkage and miscellaneous fittings. Will this in help increase the value since it came with the single carb setup, I'm assuming that it should increase the performance? Any leads on websites, links or people who are knowledgeable with this car and who could help answer questions. Cheers, Curt Arndt - too big to fit into most Lotus Cars! Carlsbad, CA '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From Blue One Hundred From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 01:47:09 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Bleeding clutch/brakes How are you bleeding your brakes? Are you using a vacuum system or are you pumping the pedal? If you are using a vacuum system, you may want to switch to the tried and true method of pumping the pedal - that's the most sure way to bleed hydraulics. If not, you may have a seal problem with the line to the clutch reserviour? Are the res. and the lines new? If so, the line may not be sealing correctly at the tank and air may be getting into the system. I have seen several listers refer to the use of sealing washers on the bottom of the res when they use a new res & lines. Regards, Alan '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 --- Kenny Johnson wrote: > I've been trying to bleed my clutch and brakes. I > rebuilt both master > cyclinders (clutch and brake) and the slave > cylinder, therfore, all of the > lines were dry. After about 10-15 min, I am still > only getting a very > small amount of fluid through the clutch line. Do I > need to be more > patient? Any suggestions? > > > Once I get the clutch and brakes working, I'll be > finally driving my > chassis. > > Kenny > 61 BT-7 From "Frakes, Jim" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 07:44:54 -0500 Subject: BN 4 Rear Alignment Clarification Several people have emailed me to say the pins on the springs do the alignment. See below for a better explanation. I agree there are pins there and if they lock in properly, it should self align. But what if the spring shackles were welded on slightly off? Or ??? When I measure from the inside of the shock bracket to the largest fin on the drum, the left side is 12-1/4 in, the right side is 12-1/2. To me this would indicate I am out of square with the frame by 1/2 of 1/4 or 1/8 inch. I know 1/8 does not sound like much but it could mean more tire wire or squealing around a corner. I want another method of measurement which would confirm or deny my measurements. I loosened both sides spring u-bolts and tightened the panhard rod. It did not do anything. With the springs still sitting in the pins, I wrapped a tie down around the hub and tried to move it back but no luck. I just want to see if any one else has experienced a problem or am I being too picky. Jim Frakes From "Alex" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 08:42:58 -0500 Subject: RE: Brake Fluid Bleed Valve == Alex in Maine 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie" Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8 Amateur Radio AI2Q http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm .-.-. -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jon McLeroy Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 10:51 PM To: STOCKLAND@aol.com Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Brake Fluid Bleed Valve Jon Take a small wire brush and clean around the valve then spray liberally with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or other good penetrating product--let soak. ................ From "Gilmours" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 09:08:05 -0500 Subject: Healey sighting X2 Had to have been Michael and Mary Orritt, I told her to go say hi, don't know if she did. Tom From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 10:05:51 -0500 Subject: 100-4 frame question Allen Miller BN2/M From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 10:13:01 -0500 Subject: 100-4 photos If someone in the know thinks these are rare archive items, they should be bought up by a club. I just don't know what they are. Auction ends in one day. Bidding is currently over 35BPS. Allen Miller From "Greg Lemon" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 10:08:44 -0600 Subject: Re: 100-4 photos Happy Healying Greg Lemon 54 BN1 From "matt wilson" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 08:47:37 -0800 Subject: 1961 Hartop Restoration From ggilliam at usol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 12:32:31 EST Subject: Covering instrument panel Appreciation in advance, Gordy From Roland Wilhelmy From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 10:44:06 -0800 Subject: Re: 100-4 frame question So, is what you have a BN2 thing, perhaps? -Roland On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 10:05:51 -0500, you wrote: ::On the 100-4 there are two projections with threaded holes for bolts on the ::inboard side of the front rails, adjacent to the bumper attachments. Were ::these intended for a different kind of bumper mount? Alternately, were they ::rovide support for a badge bar or light bar. I've seen these vestigial holes ::on all 100-4's I've looked at. What is the concensus? :: ::Allen Miller BN2/M From "Reid Trummel" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 18:44:49 +0000 Subject: Collector Car Insurance Revisited However, I just called them to add a car to my policy, and was surprised to learn that they now have a 2500-mile annual limit. I would have sworn that previously -- like some years ago when I first started insuring my collector cars with them -- that they had no mileage limit, and that in fact it was one of their big selling points that differentiated them from their competition. I recall that it made the subject a bit of a no-brainer since no one else offered that. However, now learning that they do have a mileage limit (regardless of whether they always did, or recently imposed one) I'm a bit disillusioned and question my choice of companies to insure my Healeys. Anyone know of better choices for companies for this type of insurance? I'd be interested in companies offering insurance with one liability charge, no set mileage limit, and no severe usage limit (such as those ridiculous "parade-and-club-meeting-only" use limit policies). Obviously the cars would not be used for work or as daily drivers. Thanks. Reid Reid Trummel Portland, Oregon 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master _________________________________________________________________ Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $26.95. https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.) From Earl Kagna From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 10:43:41 -0800 Subject: Fw: 100-4 frame question As far as I can determine, this is also true on all of the 6 cyl cars. The bumper iron attatchment points are actually a threaded tube that projects right through the frame rail - what you see are the inboard ends of the tube. I would think that this design was necessary for strength - the frame box section is hollow. On the very late Canadian spec cars, tow eyes were mounted to these points on the inboard side of the frame. They could potentially be used for any purpose, including a dedicated tow-bar, with the right brackets having been fabricated. Earl Kagna Victoria, B. C. Canada '62 BT7 tri-carb '67 BJ8 (both with towing eyes installed to protect the sway bar - and for a quick tow, if necessary!) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <> To: Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 7:05 AM Subject: 100-4 frame question On the 100-4 there are two projections with threaded holes for bolts on the inboard side of the front rails, adjacent to the bumper attachments. Were these intended for a different kind of bumper mount? Alternately, were they rovide support for a badge bar or light bar. I've seen these vestigial holes on all 100-4's I've looked at. What is the concensus? Allen Miller BN2/M From "Michael Salter" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 14:54:34 -0500 Subject: RE: 100-4 frame question Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allen C. Miller, Jr. Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 10:06 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: 100-4 frame question On the 100-4 there are two projections with threaded holes for bolts on the inboard side of the front rails, adjacent to the bumper attachments. Were these intended for a different kind of bumper mount? Alternately, were they rovide support for a badge bar or light bar. I've seen these vestigial holes on all 100-4's I've looked at. What is the concensus? Allen Miller BN2/M From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:37:18 EST Subject: Re: 100-4 frame question Bill Scannell BN-1 From Awgertoo at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 16:13:06 EST Subject: Re: Healey sighting X2 > My wife called me this morning from her occasional stop for coffee on the > way to work. She says there are 2 Healeys in the parking lot. One "blue like > your old one", one red with "that fold down windshield" > > Had to have been Michael and Mary Orritt, I told her to go say hi, don't > know if she did. > Yep-- Mary and I were a part of the Veteran's Day parade in Leonardtown, MD--we each got one of the local highschool queens as a passenger. Best--Michael Oritt From tammy neumann From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 13:34:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: BN1 Wiring Diagram __________________________________ Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree From Jerry Wall From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 16:23:08 -0600 Subject: Re: 100-4 photos From SMickel950 at aol.com From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 17:23:54 EST Subject: Re: 100-4 frame question I have them on my May 1954 BN1. I also have two on each side in the rear corner braces. Steve Mickelson In a message dated 11/11/2003 7:05:22 AM Pacific Standard Time, acmiller@mhcable.com writes: > On the 100-4 there are two projections with threaded holes for bolts on the > inboard side of the front rails, adjacent to the bumper attachments. Were > these intended for a different kind of bumper mount? Alternately, were they > rovide support for a badge bar or light bar. I've seen these vestigial holes > on all 100-4's I've looked at. What is the concensus? > > Allen Miller BN2/M From Jerry Wall From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 16:34:23 -0600 Subject: Re: Covering instrument panel From "Quinn, Patrick" From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 09:57:19 +1100 Subject: RE: 100-4 photos It is indeed photos of the first Healey 100 before Austin was added to the title. Tickford made the first body(s) but just couldn't keep up with the demand when Austin joined the picture. Jensen was offered the job as a payback for all the help provided to Austin and over the proceedings years. I have some photos of the same car. The car featured in quite a number of road tests of the era, copies of which can be found in the Brooklands compilation books. Regards Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: Allen C. Miller, Jr. [mailto:acmiller@mhcable.com] Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 2:13 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: 100-4 photos on Ebay UK there are three vintage photos of a 100. The rear trunk compartment appears to be prototypical/non-production. the seller says they are from Tickford. The link is http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2201500611 If someone in the know thinks these are rare archive items, they should be bought up by a club. I just don't know what they are. Auction ends in one day. Bidding is currently over 35BPS. Allen Miller ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From "Rich C" From: To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 18:49:40 -0500 Subject: Covering instrument panel > Healeyites, > As it is becomming less comfortable to work in the garage as part of > the continuing saga of returning BN4 47704 (Longbridge) to the > roads, I will move to the basement to complete some of the small > component tasks. > Among these is recovering the instrument panel. I have the vinyl > material ready, and was wondering if any of you would share your > experiences and techniques with me. Did you use spray or brush-on > adhesive? What brand? How did you keep the vinyl tight to the > contour of the edges on the raised section....just by using the trim > ring? Did you do it all at once or just the top surface first, then the > edges? > > Appreciation in advance, > > Gordy From "Rich C" From: To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 18:53:48 -0500 Subject: Re: 100-4 frame question > In a message dated 11/11/2003 7:05:22 AM Pacific Standard Time, > acmiller@mhcable.com writes: > > > On the 100-4 there are two projections with threaded holes for bolts on the > > inboard side of the front rails, adjacent to the bumper attachments. Were > > these intended for a different kind of bumper mount? Alternately, were they > > rovide support for a badge bar or light bar. I've seen these vestigial holes > > on all 100-4's I've looked at. What is the concensus? > > > > Allen Miller BN2/M From dicksonr at uwm.edu From: To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 18:40:16 -0600 Subject: Re: Collector Car Insurance Revisited that the rates are increasing due to the insurance compaies losing their ass in the stock market the last few years. However, I do not know if this is true. I may go with a multiple policy program from my local agent for truck, Healey, Cobra and household next year which will make my rate drop by about $300!!! No milage limit. Hagerty has really raised their rates. Randy Dickson Healey Archaeologist 63 BJ-7 Sturgeon Bay, WI. Quoting Reid Trummel : > I thought I had this figured out. I have been using Hagerty because they > offered two clear advantages over their competition: no mileage limit, and > one liability charge regardless of the number of cars you insure. > > However, I just called them to add a car to my policy, and was surprised to > learn that they now have a 2500-mile annual limit. I would have sworn that > previously -- like some years ago when I first started insuring my collector > > cars with them -- that they had no mileage limit, and that in fact it was > one of their big selling points that differentiated them from their > competition. I recall that it made the subject a bit of a no-brainer since > no one else offered that. > > However, now learning that they do have a mileage limit (regardless of > whether they always did, or recently imposed one) I'm a bit disillusioned > and question my choice of companies to insure my Healeys. Anyone know of > better choices for companies for this type of insurance? I'd be interested > > in companies offering insurance with one liability charge, no set mileage > limit, and no severe usage limit (such as those ridiculous > "parade-and-club-meeting-only" use limit policies). Obviously the cars > would not be used for work or as daily drivers. Thanks. > > Reid > > Reid Trummel > Portland, Oregon > 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master From Pat & Gary Rice From: To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 17:18:11 -0800 Subject: Re: Healey Sighting Ventura From "PETER DAVIS" From: To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 18:04:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Collector Car Insurance Revisited I looked at Hagerty and got a quote for my 100M but stayed with Great American in the end after they accepted an appraised value $4k above their own limit. I got a 3k mileage limit and could get more, but with NJ QQ historic plates, and it's probably the same with other states equivalents, there is an annual mileage limit around 5k miles anyway. The restricted use and reduced mileage is what keeps the liability cost down, although the policy does allow occasional social use in addition to club and show events. If you have a regular registration you can probably get higher mileage allowances for an increased premium but most companies will want to consider the conditions of use for historic cars differently to modern transportation. My concern is whether the appraised value means very much as it is in the "stated value" column as opposed to the "agreed value" column on the policy. I have asked for clarification because from the notes in the policy, stated gives them room to negotiate if they think the value had gone down by actual condition at time of loss or any other reason they might think of. Agreed is agreed but you also have to be careful to get it reviewed and changed if values have risen. Hagerty seemed too eager to accept an even higher valuation of my own choosing and I got suspicious they might take the same stated value approach if it came to payout and want to argue about it. regards, Peter Davis On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 18:44:49 +0000, "Reid Trummel" wrote: > > I thought I had this figured out. I have been using > Hagerty because they > offered two clear advantages over their competition: no > mileage limit, and > one liability charge regardless of the number of cars > you insure. > > However, I just called them to add a car to my policy, > and was surprised to > learn that they now have a 2500-mile annual limit. I > would have sworn that > previously -- like some years ago when I first started > insuring my collector > cars with them -- that they had no mileage limit, and > that in fact it was > one of their big selling points that differentiated > them from their > competition. I recall that it made the subject a bit > of a no-brainer since > no one else offered that. > > However, now learning that they do have a mileage limit > (regardless of > whether they always did, or recently imposed one) I'm a > bit disillusioned > and question my choice of companies to insure my > Healeys. Anyone know of > better choices for companies for this type of > insurance? I'd be interested > in companies offering insurance with one liability > charge, no set mileage > limit, and no severe usage limit (such as those > ridiculous > "parade-and-club-meeting-only" use limit policies). > Obviously the cars > would not be used for work or as daily drivers. Thanks. > > Reid > > Reid Trummel > Portland, Oregon > 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master > > _________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart. http://www.peoplepc.com From Awgertoo at aol.com From: To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 21:44:53 EST Subject: Conclave 2003 Patches and Pens Best to all--Michael Oritt From "Charley Braum" From: To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 21:55:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Healey Sighting Ventura And you thought Healeys ran hot! CB From "Rick" From: To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 21:03:37 -0600 Subject: Re: Healey Sighting Ventura er, only in a wok, CB????????????????????? LOL Rick From Blue One Hundred From: To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 19:07:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Collector Car Insurance Revisited It may depend on the agent in your area, but I have used State Farm for 20 years in California for my Healeys and the rates, so far, have been more competitive than insurance companies such as USAA... believe it or not. In addition, my State Farm agent has never questioned a claim, never delayed a payout and has always worked with me on a positive working relationship. In one particularly remarkable claim I had - several years ago I was driving in Pacific Grove (Carmel), CA, when my car hit a very poorly marked dip in the road. The damage to my car was severe as the front chassis rails hit the other side of the dip and the car stopped instantaneouly from a speed of 25 mph. I replaced the radiator and radiator fan and right engine mount. I thought that was the extent of the damage. What was remarkable about this is about a year later my frame started squeeking and the car seemed to be sagging just a hair. The alignment and tire wear seemed to be off. I took the car into an alignment specialist and, after inspecting everything, informed me that the right chassis rail had a crack in it almost 180 degrees around the axis... located right behind the shock tower. I had been driving a time bomb. I knew that this crack had to have been caused by my hitting the Dip in Carmel about a year earlier... and fixing the chassis ended up costing about $1,500 at the time (15 years ago) ... a lot of money. My agent listened to the story, paid the full amount, and never questioned anything about my story. He wasn't one bit concerned that the accident happened a year earlier and I didn't have a police report. If you have to choose anyone, I'd have to say State Farm is the way to go. Plus with my A++ driving rating the rates are even more reasonable... although Hagerty is still probably cheaper I don't know. Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 --- Reid Trummel wrote: > I thought I had this figured out. I have been using > Hagerty because they > offered two clear advantages over their competition: > no mileage limit, and > one liability charge regardless of the number of > cars you insure. > > However, I just called them to add a car to my > policy, and was surprised to > learn that they now have a 2500-mile annual limit. > I would have sworn that > previously -- like some years ago when I first > started insuring my collector > cars with them -- that they had no mileage limit, > and that in fact it was > one of their big selling points that differentiated > them from their > competition. I recall that it made the subject a > bit of a no-brainer since > no one else offered that. > > However, now learning that they do have a mileage > limit (regardless of > whether they always did, or recently imposed one) > I'm a bit disillusioned > and question my choice of companies to insure my > Healeys. Anyone know of > better choices for companies for this type of > insurance? I'd be interested > in companies offering insurance with one liability > charge, no set mileage > limit, and no severe usage limit (such as those > ridiculous > "parade-and-club-meeting-only" use limit policies). > Obviously the cars > would not be used for work or as daily drivers. > Thanks. > > Reid > > Reid Trummel > Portland, Oregon > 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master From DrBerkowitz at aol.com From: To: Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 23:10:24 EST Subject: Covering Instrument Panel From GSFuqua1 at aol.com From: To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 01:28:27 EST Subject: Re: Collector Car Insurance Revisited My policies are with Grundy Worldwide but I think I may do some shopping. Their policy seems OK but the service is sometimes slow. Cheers, Gary Fuqua Branson, Missouri From GSFuqua1 at aol.com From: To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 01:38:11 EST Subject: Re: Collector Car Insurance Revisited Gary Fuqua Branson, Missouri From "Lynn and Jean Neff" From: To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 05:20:43 -0600 Subject: Collector Car Insurance Revisited What I focused on was usage restrictions. I probably could live with 2,500 miles annually, but I will drive the BT7 to work. This was a potential coverage problem with all of the companies I checked with, so I have kept the Healey on my regular auto policy. Do not overlook the most important part of your auto insurance...the Bodily Injury and Property Damage...you know what is at stake with the value of your car, but the really big exposure is causing injury/damage to the the other guy and his stuff. No way do I want to leave myself open to some claim adjuster deciding if the policy will respond after I've had an accident. I'd like the lower price from Hagerty etc., but not with this potential gap. If someone is aware of a specialty company that will allow me to drive to work on a regular basis, I would love to hear about them. By the way, Editor Gary discussed this in his prior magazine too. Any new information? Lynn BT7 Springfield, IL From "tom felts" From: To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 07:50:40 -0500 Subject: Re: Collector Car Insurance Revisited Regards tom > [Original Message] > From: Blue One Hundred > To: Reid Trummel ; > Date: 11/11/03 10:10:30 PM > Subject: Re: Collector Car Insurance Revisited > > Reid - > > It may depend on the agent in your area, but I have > used State Farm for 20 years in California for my > Healeys and the rates, so far, have been more > competitive than insurance companies such as USAA... > believe it or not. > > I From "tom felts" From: To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 07:57:03 -0500 Subject: RE: Collector Car Insurance Revisited > [Original Message] > From: Lynn and Jean Neff > To: Healeys > Date: 11/12/03 6:22:43 AM > Subject: Collector Car Insurance Revisited Do not overlook the most important part of > your auto insurance...the Bodily Injury and Property Damage...you know what is > at stake with the value of your car, but the really big exposure is causing > injury/damage to the the other guy and his stuff. No way do I want to leave > myself open to some claim adjuster deciding if the policy will respond after > I've had an accident. I'd like the lower price from Hagerty etc., but not with > this potential gap. From "Bob Johnson" From: To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 08:12:40 -0500 Subject: Re: Primary choke cable Obviously the white nylon piece is not a part of the assembly, it goes. I Pulled my back out of whack like never before last Sat. before I could work on the car. Today is my first day of walking among the living with some degree of comfort. Maybe tonight I can crawl aroung and get this thing working like it should. It would be nice to do while we are having this really unseasonavly warm weather here in Southside Va. Thanks again, Bob Johnson BJ8 From "Ron Davies" From: To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 06:28:40 -0800 Subject: RE: Collector Car Insurance Revisited As to insurance companies I have some insight. My late father-in-law was the Pres. of Farmers Insurance before it was bought out by some foreign company. His uncle invented Farmers to sell insurance to...farmers. We had many discussions at dinner about fraud by policy holders and the insane jury awards. We honest people suffer from the fraud committed by others. Farmers only wanted a 5% profit each year after expenses and he was paid only something like 100k per year as President. Two ridiculous cases come to mind. One was a family of a lady who bought a powerful porche and crashed it. they won millions claiming the dealership and Farmers should never have sold/insured the car because she was not "qualified" to drive this street car. Another was a multi-million award to a deceased Cessna 210 pilot who flew into a local mountain in a storm. Even though he was not instrument rated (flight was illegal) the plane was equipped with radar, de-icing, and full IFR capable therefore it should not have been sold to the pilot in their minds. Well folks, the rest of us pay for these stupid awards. No corporation ever pays for increased costs or regulations. It is always passed on to us. But then these cases shouldn't surprise me, I'm from the state that let OJ go and calls riots "civil unrest". Ron 67 BJ8 Story of the insurance companies raising rates due to loses in the stock market is true but they have also sustained large losses due to 9/11, various storms, etc. Rates generally are increasing and restrictions on coverage is creeping in. Personally I have no good things to say about insurance companies. Most think of themselves as premium collection agencies. They forget they are selling an actual product and MAY have to pay something out at some point. They are getting more and more aggressive in fighting claims of their own customers. Rather self defeating in the bigger picture but there is always big brother insisting on mandatory coverage. Bit of rack in my opinion. Like I said, not much good to say. Gary Fuqua Branson, Missouri From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." From: To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 09:42:41 -0500 Subject: Fw: 100-4 frame question 1. I have two period '55/'56 SLucas 576 lights (the slightly smaller lights) that I would like to mount to the M's splash guard, without a light bar. A majority of the vintage photos depicting light mountings (mostly 700's, but a few of the smaller 576's) reflect direct mounting without a badge bar, and I would like to follow this. Is there any reason not to provide the weight support from these mountings? Any alternative thoughts on this? 2. Has anyone fashioned a removable towing piece for mounting to these holes for that "rare" occasion when you can't make it home under your own power? If anyone has some practical pointers on this, please let me know. thanks Allen 56 BN2/M From Awgertoo at aol.com From: To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 09:57:29 EST Subject: Re: Fw: 100-4 frame question > 1. I have two period '55/'56 SLucas 576 lights (the slightly smaller > lights) that I would like to mount to the M's splash guard, without a light > bar. A majority of the vintage photos depicting light mountings (mostly > 700's, but a few of the smaller 576's) reflect direct mounting without a > badge bar, and I would like to follow this. Is there any reason not to > provide the weight support from these mountings? Any alternative thoughts on > this? > > 2. Has anyone fashioned a removable towing piece for mounting to these > holes for that "rare" occasion when you can't make it home under your own > power? If anyone has some practical pointers on this, please let me know. > Al-- My 100 has a pair of 576's mounted on the splash with no reinforcing and no jiggle. I purchased a collapsible towing piece and modified it so that it mounts to the tow-eyes that I purchased from Bill Bolton. Contact me for further details if you like. Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans From GSFuqua1 at aol.com From: To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 11:40:58 EST Subject: Re: Collector Car Insurance Revisited Still nothing good to say. Just a necessary evil required because of the time we live in. Gary From "norman cay" From: tammy neumann To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 09:20:24 -0800 Subject: BN1 Wiring Diagram > I am trying to help a member of our local > Austin-Healey club with some electrical problems on > his recently restored BN1. My workshop manual does > not have an electrical diagram of the early cars. > Would somebody on the list be willing to send me this > diagram either by E-mail or FAX? From Editorgary at aol.com From: tammy neumann To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 12:22:17 EST Subject: Insurance << My concern is whether the appraised value means very much as it is in the "stated value" column as opposed to the "agreed value" column on the policy. I have asked for clarification because from the notes in the policy, stated gives them room to negotiate if they think the value had gone down by actual condition at time of loss or any other reason they might think of. Agreed is agreed but you also have to be careful to get it reviewed and changed if values have risen. Hagerty seemed too eager to accept an even higher valuation of my own choosing and I got suspicious they might take the same stated value approach if it came to payout and want to argue about it. >> You've hit the nail on the head. Agreed value is agreed in advance, and in case of a total loss, is the value that will be paid. Says so in the policy. Stated value simply establishes the height of the bar. They don't have to pay any higher, but they can pay lower if they can establish that the actual replacement value is less. (And they're the ones who make the decision.) I recently had a full-loss claim from Hagerty on my MGA -- not even licensed for the street, but having a new clutch road-tested on a back country road when it was totaled. They paid with absolutely no argument. BTW, a good friend in the insurance risk business says that the thing you should be worrying about is how much liability coverage you have. Collision or comprehensive might be only $30,000. Liability, Reid, as you probably know better than anyone else, can be upwards of $1 million. On any policy, make sure you've got as much liability as you need. I've just written an article on insurance for Classic Motorsports Magazine, with some discussion of race car insurance. Reid, maybe you could write one for your Healey magazine after you've done your research. Cheers Gary Anderson From "tom felts" From: tammy neumann To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 12:28:49 -0500 Subject: Re: Collector Car Insurance Revisited > [Original Message] > From: > To: ; ; > Cc: > Date: 11/12/03 11:44:37 AM > Subject: Re: Collector Car Insurance Revisited > > Thanks for the note Ron. I understand what you are saying but my recent > experience has been to have insurance companies try anything and everything > possible to avoid ANY claims payout. Fraud is indeed a problem but not every > claim is fraud yet many are being treated this way from the get go. If the > insurance companies would settle for 5% after expenses that would be great but > most > of them shoot for much much more. The few states that actually regulate > them allow in the 11 to 12% range and the insurance companies stuff everything > they possibly can into their "Costs." Wonder why that is not fraud? > > Still nothing good to say. Just a necessary evil required because of the > time we live in. > s! From "Esko & Megan Cate" From: tammy neumann To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 10:43:48 -0800 Subject: RE: Covering instrument panel Don't use the spray 3M contact cements. They don't seem to hold the vinyl very well. Esko BJ7 From: To: Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 12:32 PM Subject: Covering instrument panel > Healeyites, > As it is becomming less comfortable to work in the garage as part of > the continuing saga of returning BN4 47704 (Longbridge) to the > roads, I will move to the basement to complete some of the small > component tasks. > Among these is recovering the instrument panel. I have the vinyl > material ready, and was wondering if any of you would share your > experiences and techniques with me. Did you use spray or brush-on > adhesive? What brand? How did you keep the vinyl tight to the > contour of the edges on the raised section....just by using the trim > ring? Did you do it all at once or just the top surface first, then the > edges? > > Appreciation in advance, > > Gordy From joe mulqueen From: tammy neumann To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 11:20:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: re. Re: Covering instrument panel Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 18:49:40 -0500 From: "Rich C" Subject: I have successfully applied new vinyl to the instrument panel by brushing an even coat of LePages or 3M brand contact cement (not the water based stuff).......... __________________________________ Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree From Steve Gerow From: tammy neumann To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 12:16:04 -0800 Subject: Cylinder Leakage Tester The components are in this order: air inlet 1st tee with 1st Pressure Gauge Regulator small orofice between Regulator and 2nd tee 2nd tee with 2nd pressure gauge Outlet to spark plug hose. Looking at the commercial ones, they look like: air inlet regulator 1st pressure gauge 2nd pressure gauge outlet to spark plug hose. Guessing the orofice is between the 1st and 2nd pressure gauges If that's the case, I can't see how they would work properly. Does anyone have one of the store bought models and can confirm or correct the setup above? -- Steve Gerow Pasadena CA 59 BN6 From "Freese, Ken" From: tammy neumann To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 13:19:18 -0800 Subject: RE: 1961 Hardtop Restoration From tammy neumann From: tammy neumann To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 14:34:32 -0800 (PST) Subject: BN1 Electrical Diagram Request Successful __________________________________ Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree From "Jerry Costanzo" From: tammy neumann To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 15:06:55 -0800 Subject: Have Healey engine, Need CAR!! I would love to find a BJ8 that is missing an engine to mate up with it. Can you guys keep an eye out for me? If you have an extra flywheel, let me know also. Jerry BN4 29E engine From "Freese, Ken" From: WSpohn4@aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4@aol.com] To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 16:05:14 -0800 Subject: Non Jensen, but Funny >From another group - but it is hilarious and I figured you guys would get a kick out of the story. Bill Here is my Lamborghini Horror Story: I bought my 400 GT 2+2 in mid-1972 while stationed with the U.S. Navy at Seal Beach, California. At that time (and for many years after that) it was my everyday car. So when my mother and father came to visit us, we actually had to pack four adults into the car for trips. Once such trip was to the then bfamousb Lion Country Safari located to the south of Seal Beach. My parents wanted to see it since they had heard much about it. My mother figured I was a nut case for using a Lamborghini as my family car, but in those days, there was no money for other options. So one hot Sunday morning, we squeezed my wife and mother in the +2 back bseatsb and my dad and I took the fronts. No problem, I thought; it was a relatively short drive and my car had air conditioning. For some background on this attraction b the Lion Country Safari was basically a drive in your own car through some large, fenced (very fenced) areas. This included one drive though a kind of monkey paradise (where the monkeys would joyfully rip off your windshield wipers, trim strips, etc.), and another through an area full of genuine wild lions. I managed to get through the monkey bgauntletb with all my external accessories and finally drove into the second fenced area filled with the lions. It was a hot day and the air conditioner in my car had stopped blowing cold air and the fan motor was running very slowly, so at the insistence of my parents, I lowered the electric windows about six or eight inches to let in some fresh air. I got about another 50 feet into the lion enclosure and the engine died. I tried to re-start but all I heard was the dreaded bclickb of an underpowered solenoid. When the car stopped, all the lions in the area immediately smelled blunchb and began to surround the car. I hit the window bupb switch feverishly but the battery had no punch left and the windows remained open. I pulled the emergency window lever (a small, mechanical "crank") out of the pocket in the door and began rotating that thing like my life depended on it. It was then I realized the crank had worn tips and was not engaging, so the windows remained partially open. As the lions surrounded the car, my wife was cursing me in French (she is from Cannes), and my mother was too petrified to say anything. Finally, a Land Rover painted with zebra stripes pulled behind us, and an attendant got out of the vehicle with a portable air horn and shooed the lions away. He had a booster battery and some handy cables and we were able to jump start the Lambo and beat it out of there. After I got back out of the lion area, I inspected under the hood and discovered my alternator fan belt was gone. Using what little power that was left in the battery for ignition only, I was able to get back home to Seal Beach. From Dave & Marlene From: WSpohn4@aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4@aol.com] To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 17:09:18 -0700 Subject: Re: Cylinder Leakage Tester The commercial hookup is correct & the restrictor (.040" usually) is between the two gages. With the commercial tester (differential pressure tester) the the pressure is set with the regulator to show a readable pressure on both gages. The first gage reads the applied regulated pressure, the second gage reads the pressure on the cylinder. The difference between the two gages is the amount of pressure difference across the restrictor & represents the amount of cylinder leakage. Lot of messing around to convert pressures to leakage. This type is required in the aviation industry with everything being calibrated & charts & specs for each type of engine. The .040" restrictor is a good size for the average cylinder. Very small cylinders should use a smaller restrictor, maybe .025". Very large cylinders should use a larger restrictior, maybe .050" to .060". A more simple easier to use, & nearly as accurate setup is just like yours with the first gage removed. The first gage really isn't doing anything except measuring compressor pressure; Inlet Regulator Restrictor (.040") Tee to gage & outlet with quick disconnect. Gage is 0 to 80 psi with dial marked backward from 100% to 0%. (80 psi = 0%, 40 psi = 50%, 0 psi = 100% leakage) To use this one, connect pressure to inlet with quick disconnect (QD) shut off, adjust regulator to 80 psi or 0 %. Connect QD to cylinder & read % leakage on the gage. Since the regulated inlet pressure is already set the gage reads cylinder pressure. Generally good race engines will show 2% max. A good street engine will show 4% max. A bad engine will show 10% or more. Dave Russell BN2 Steve Gerow wrote: > Wanted to run my homemade leakage tester configuration past someone who has > one of the commercial ones. > > The components are in this order: > > air inlet > 1st tee with 1st Pressure Gauge > Regulator > small orofice between Regulator and 2nd tee > 2nd tee with 2nd pressure gauge > Outlet to spark plug hose. > > Looking at the commercial ones, they look like: > > air inlet > regulator > 1st pressure gauge > 2nd pressure gauge > outlet to spark plug hose. > Guessing the orofice is between the 1st and 2nd pressure gauges > > If that's the case, I can't see how they would work properly. > > Does anyone have one of the store bought models and can confirm or correct > the setup above? From Steve Gerow From: WSpohn4@aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4@aol.com] To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 16:24:50 -0800 Subject: Re: Cylinder Leakage Tester I'm not sure I got my restrictor is correct as I didn't have a .040 drill and forced a piece of bolt into my restrictor close nipple as the plug. First I cut a hacksaw slot in the side of the plug to allow air to pass through and it may have more area than the .040 hole would. Have built it but haven't tried it out yet. Will post a followup after I try it out. -- Steve Gerow Pasadena CA 59 BN6 > From: Dave & Marlene > Reply-To: rusd@velocitus.net > Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 17:09:18 -0700 > To: Steve Gerow > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: Cylinder Leakage Tester > > Hi Steve, > > The commercial hookup is correct & the restrictor (.040" usually) is > between the two gages. > > With the commercial tester (differential pressure tester) the the > pressure is set with the regulator to show a readable pressure on both > gages. The first gage reads the applied regulated pressure, the second > gage reads the pressure on the cylinder. The difference between the two > gages is the amount of pressure difference across the restrictor & > represents the amount of cylinder leakage. Lot of messing around to > convert pressures to leakage. This type is required in the aviation > industry with everything being calibrated & charts & specs for each type > of engine. > > The .040" restrictor is a good size for the average cylinder. Very > small cylinders should use a smaller restrictor, maybe .025". Very > large cylinders should use a larger restrictior, maybe .050" to .060". > > A more simple easier to use, & nearly as accurate setup is just like > yours with the first gage removed. The first gage really isn't doing > anything except measuring compressor pressure; > > Inlet > Regulator > Restrictor (.040") > Tee to gage & outlet with quick disconnect. > > Gage is 0 to 80 psi with dial marked backward from 100% to 0%. (80 psi > = 0%, 40 psi = 50%, 0 psi = 100% leakage) > > To use this one, connect pressure to inlet with quick disconnect (QD) > shut off, adjust regulator to 80 psi or 0 %. Connect QD to cylinder & > read % leakage on the gage. Since the regulated inlet pressure is > already set the gage reads cylinder pressure. > > Generally good race engines will show 2% max. A good street engine will > show 4% max. A bad engine will show 10% or more. > > Dave Russell > BN2 > > > > Steve Gerow wrote: >> Wanted to run my homemade leakage tester configuration past someone who has >> one of the commercial ones. >> >> The components are in this order: >> >> air inlet >> 1st tee with 1st Pressure Gauge >> Regulator >> small orofice between Regulator and 2nd tee >> 2nd tee with 2nd pressure gauge >> Outlet to spark plug hose. >> >> Looking at the commercial ones, they look like: >> >> air inlet >> regulator >> 1st pressure gauge >> 2nd pressure gauge >> outlet to spark plug hose. >> Guessing the orofice is between the 1st and 2nd pressure gauges >> >> If that's the case, I can't see how they would work properly. >> >> Does anyone have one of the store bought models and can confirm or correct >> the setup above? From William Moyer From: WSpohn4@aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4@aol.com] To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 19:49:55 -0500 Subject: RE: Non Healey, but Funny Of course it's more romantic doing it in a Lambo. Bill Moyer, BJ7 From John Luttenberger From: WSpohn4@aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4@aol.com] To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 20:02:57 -0500 Subject: Re: Cylinder Leakage Tester HTH Regards John . Steve Gerow wrote: >Dave, >Thanks for the input. The gauges were $4 each at Grainger--I wanted 2 >identical gauges and to be looking at the compressor setup over at the car >etc. and not comparing the 30 year old gauge to the new one. > >I'm not sure I got my restrictor is correct as I didn't have a .040 drill >and forced a piece of bolt into my restrictor close nipple as the plug. >First I cut a hacksaw slot in the side of the plug to allow air to pass >through and it may have more area than the .040 hole would. > >Have built it but haven't tried it out yet. > >Will post a followup after I try it out. From Dave & Marlene From: WSpohn4@aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4@aol.com] To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 19:09:43 -0700 Subject: Re: Cylinder Leakage Tester We must be on different wavelengths. Why not just run the test cylinder to TDC compression stroke & measure it. Both valves are as closed as they will ever be. Can't see any need to have it at BDC with valve train removed. If the piston is at exact TDC it will stay there by itself. It isn't hard to turn the engine by hand to feel when you are at exact TDC. There are special cases where you may be looking for cylinder wall scoring. With reduced test pressure & the piston held in the desired test position somewhere down the cylinder, but testing at BDC won't show that either. Dave Russell John Luttenberger wrote: > Snip > Bear in mind you have to disable the valve > train and have both valves closed , . Also > bear in mind that the engine will turn as soon as you apply air to a > cylinder that isn't on bottom dead center. It would be a shame to leave > it in gear and have it drive into the nearest object if close enough, or > over your toe . > > HTH > > Regards > John . From N0040 at aol.com From: WSpohn4@aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4@aol.com] To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 21:14:13 EST Subject: Re: Cylinder Leakage Tester What you are trying to accomplish is build a flow meter. The 0.040" orifice would correspond to a specific flow rate at a known inlet pressure (regulator outlet). As long as that is constant (and temp as well), the flow is equal to the sq.root of the pressure drop. The amount of flow is calculated using a derivation of Bernoulli's. You cannot read two pressure gauges and subtract the difference for correct measurement. You would need a true differential pressure gauge. See: http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/PRESSURE/qs2000.cfm A low flow, yet inexpensive meter would be a variable area meter. Use two 1/4" NPT small gas cocks (or ball valve) ~ (or one 3-way if you find one). Pipe outlet of regulator into tee with a shut-off valve on outlet of tee and one on bypass of tee. Outlet valve is connected inlet of flow meter and outlet of meter is connected to tee, whose run is connected to cylinder, and other bypass of tee to previous tee bypass valve. After connecting tubing to cylinder, close valve on inlet to meter, and open valve on bypass. Turn on regulator source and adjust to nominal pressure (say 15 psig). THe line and cylinder should fill immediately. Close valve on bypass and then open valve on inlet to meter. Meter than measures any leak through from the cylinder. That way you can use a "low flow" meter, without sending all the initial filling flow through the meter. Note: This type of flow meter must be mounted vertically. See: http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/FLOW/qsseriesmm.cfm A better quality and easier to read meter (but more expensive) See: http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/FLOW/qsrm.cfm If you have a tri-carb, or four cylinder motorcycle you can build a unit to balance the carbs air flow simultaneously..... See: http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/FLOW/qsseriesmtf.cfm For application help.... See: http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/pressure/GageApplications.cfm Always make sure of reading specs to make sure flow meter or dP meter can handle the outlet pressure you are setting the regulator for. Some of these devices are only rated for 15 psig, 25 psig or 50 psig.... be sure to check. Hope this helps. Regards, Bob - BJ8 Milford, MI From John Luttenberger From: WSpohn4@aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4@aol.com] To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 21:29:22 -0500 Subject: Re: Cylinder Leakage Tester Regards John Dave & Marlene wrote: > Hi John, > > We must be on different wavelengths. > > Why not just run the test cylinder to TDC compression stroke & measure > it. Both valves are as closed as they will ever be. Can't see any need > to have it at BDC with valve train removed. If the piston is at exact > TDC it will stay there by itself. It isn't hard to turn the engine by > hand to feel when you are at exact TDC. > > There are special cases where you may be looking for cylinder wall > scoring. With reduced test pressure & the piston held in the desired > test position somewhere down the cylinder, but testing at BDC won't > show that either. > > Dave Russell > > John Luttenberger wrote: > > Snip > >> Bear in mind you have to disable the valve train and have both valves >> closed , . Also bear in mind that the engine will turn as soon as >> you apply air to a cylinder that isn't on bottom dead center. It >> would be a shame to leave it in gear and have it drive into the >> nearest object if close enough, or over your toe . >> >> HTH >> >> Regards >> John . From John Luttenberger From: WSpohn4@aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4@aol.com] To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 21:56:10 -0500 Subject: Re: Cylinder Leakage Tester Hope that clarifies . Regards N0040@aol.com wrote: > Steve and John, > > What you are trying to accomplish is build a flow meter. The 0.040" > orifice would correspond to a specific flow rate at a known inlet > pressure (regulator outlet). As long as that is constant (and temp as > well), the flow is equal to the sq.root of the pressure drop. The > amount of flow is calculated using a derivation of Bernoulli's. > > You cannot read two pressure gauges and subtract the difference for > correct measurement. You would need a true differential pressure gauge. > See: http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/PRESSURE/qs2000.cfm > > A low flow, yet inexpensive meter would be a variable area meter. Use > two 1/4" NPT small gas cocks (or ball valve) ~ (or one 3-way if you > find one). Pipe outlet of regulator into tee with a shut-off valve on > outlet of tee and one on bypass of tee. Outlet valve is connected > inlet of flow meter and outlet of meter is connected to tee, whose run > is connected to cylinder, and other bypass of tee to previous tee > bypass valve. After connecting tubing to cylinder, close valve on > inlet to meter, and open valve on bypass. Turn on regulator source and > adjust to nominal pressure (say 15 psig). THe line and cylinder should > fill immediately. Close valve on bypass and then open valve on inlet > to meter. Meter than measures any leak through from the cylinder. That > way you can use a "low flow" meter, without sending all the initial > filling flow through the meter. Note: This type of flow meter must be > mounted vertically. > See: http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/FLOW/qsseriesmm.cfm > > A better quality and easier to read meter (but more expensive) > See: http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/FLOW/qsrm.cfm > > If you have a tri-carb, or four cylinder motorcycle you can build a > unit to balance the carbs air flow simultaneously..... > See: http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/FLOW/qsseriesmtf.cfm > > For application help.... > > See: http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/pressure/GageApplications.cfm > > Always make sure of reading specs to make sure flow meter or dP meter > can handle the outlet pressure you are setting the regulator for. > Some of these devices are only rated for 15 psig, 25 psig or 50 > psig.... be sure to check. > > Hope this helps. > > Regards, > Bob - BJ8 > Milford, MI From Dave & Marlene From: WSpohn4@aol.com [mailto:WSpohn4@aol.com] To: jensen-cars@british-steel.org Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 20:11:39 -0700 Subject: Re: Cylinder Leakage Tester It's pretty easy to find tdc with reduced pressure & then raise it to test pressure. Have done quite a few times & no problems. For an aviation procedure see this link; http://www.aeas.com/PDF/m84_15.pdf Dave Russell John Luttenberger wrote: > All I can suggest to you is go ahead and try it . It won't take more > than a few degrees off TDC for the cylinder to head for BDC, and with > 100 psi of air pressure on some 6-7-8 sq inches, equalling 6-7-800 > pounds of force, you'll find out why it isn't that easy . Having had a > leak down tester for over 25 years, and having used it hundreds of > times, if you can find exact TDC by feel , bearing in mind the dwell at > the ends of the strokes you're a better man than I am . Good luck . > > Regards > John From "John Soderling" From: To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 16:47:05 -0800 Subject: Insurance > I recently had a full-loss claim from Hagerty on my MGA -- not even licensed > for the street, but having a new clutch road-tested on a back country road > when it was totaled. They paid with absolutely no argument. From dicksonr at uwm.edu From: To: Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 22:32:37 -0600 Subject: looking to trade sideshift gearlever for BJ-8 gearlever Randy Dickson Healey Archaeologist 63 BJ-7 with extra BJ-8 gearbox I'm rebuilding Sturgeon Bay, WI. From OldHealeys at aol.com From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 00:09:43 EST Subject: Re: 100-4 photos ARE Prototype Gerry Coker designed the rear bumper mounting BEFORE Geoff Healey had done the gas tank location and installation. With the gas tank installed.... Ooops, the brackets will not fit. So, the special braces were formed and welded to the underside of the chassis to hold the rear bumper. Bill Emerson Author, "The Healey Book" From tld6008 at mchsi.com From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 13:09:51 +0000 Subject: Re: re. Re: Covering instrument panel Tim Davis BN7 > Anyone know if the liquid stuff is available in > California? The usual places (Ace, Home Despot, etc.) > carry only water based latex versions. I've used the > 3M aerosol version(s) but the brush on can be easier > to use. > Cheers, > Joe M > '60 BT7 > Torrance, CA > > Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 18:49:40 -0500 > From: "Rich C" > Subject: > > I have successfully applied new vinyl to the > instrument panel by brushing an even coat of LePages > or 3M brand contact cement (not the water based > stuff).......... > > > __________________________________ > Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard > http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree From tld6008 at mchsi.com From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 13:36:40 +0000 Subject: Re: looking to trade sideshift gearlever for BJ-8 gearlever Tim Davis BN7 > I'm looking to trade a sideshift gearlever for a centershift BJ-8 lever. I > have three or four sideshift levers and I do not need any of them. Thanks! > > Randy Dickson > Healey Archaeologist > 63 BJ-7 with extra BJ-8 gearbox I'm rebuilding > Sturgeon Bay, WI. From James Sailer From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 07:12:50 -0700 Subject: Re: Subject: Covering instrument panel I found that much of the off-the-shelf consumer product adhesives seem to let go.... buy a new quart can and go to your local re-upholsterer..(sp) ... I have found them always willing to help out ...... I get some stuff my local shop just calls "yellow" ... I figured if a professional shop used something it would hold... seems to... Jim Sailer 66 BJ8 From "Tom Blaskovics" From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 09:47:49 -0500 Subject: Mirror Placement ________________ Happy Healeying Tom Blaskovics AHCUSA,ACHA BJ7 Registry HBJ7L/22380 Morgantown, WV From Brian Burke From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 07:27:11 -0800 Subject: 100/4 Battery Cover Brian From "Freese, Ken" From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 07:33:51 -0800 Subject: RE: Mirror Placement From "Wm. Severin Thompson" From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 09:39:21 -0600 Subject: RE: Subject: Covering instrument panel -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Sailer Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 8:13 AM To: Healey List; ggilliam@usol.com Subject: Re: Subject: Covering instrument panel Gordy, I found that much of the off-the-shelf consumer product adhesives seem to let go.... buy a new quart can and go to your local re-upholsterer..(sp) ... I have found them always willing to help out ...... I get some stuff my local shop just calls "yellow" ... I figured if a professional shop used something it would hold... seems to... Jim Sailer 66 BJ8 From John Miller From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 10:56:14 -0500 Subject: Re: Mirror Placement Something I've wondered about recently; thanks for providing the platform for comment: Why in the world did we put the mirrors in the middle of the fenders back then? It's got to be about the dumbest placement imaginable, as far as field of view is concerned (if there's any doubt, do the ray tracing and you'll see what I mean). I'd get 'em as close to the driver's eye as possible, authenticity be damned. Much better now. :-) -- John Miller This sentence contradicts itself -- no actually it doesn't. -Douglas Hofstadter From Editorgary at aol.com From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 11:45:13 EST Subject: Re: Editor Gary's Racing Days << Gary, Does this mean the end to your CSRG and other racing exploits? Always enjoyed seeing you race and reading about it in the magazine. Vroom vrooom, John >> Not a chance -- The car is being rebuilt (isn't that what insurance money is for?) If you're interested in what the car looked like after the crash, and where we're at now with the new one, check out www.classicmotorsports.net and click on "project cars" -- one thing about being a journalist with a publishing company -- the only bad experience is one you can't write about. Cheers Gary Anderson Editor, Classic Motorsports. From CNAArndt at aol.com From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 11:50:23 EST Subject: Re: Mirror Placement My first car was a sprite which had the mirror over the front wheel arch and I found this a much superior placement. Easier to keep your eyes on the road and a shorter distance to glance at the mirror to see traffic coming up on your sides. Of course I find that most people adjust their side mirrors so that they do the same job as the interior mirror and have what they call a blind spot in regard to cars coming up on their sides. This is because they adjust the side mirrors incorrectly so that most of the time they see the side of their car in the mirror. The mirror/s should be adjusted out, so that as a car approaching on either your left or right disappears in the rear view mirror it will now be visible in the side mirror, hence no so called blind spot. Learned this as a youngster from a professional race car driver and have heard it repeated over the years by many a professional driver. Cheers, Curt Arndt Carlsbad, CA '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) In a message dated 11/13/03 7:58:17 AM Pacific Standard Time, healeys@n4vu.com writes: << Something I've wondered about recently; thanks for providing the platform for comment: Why in the world did we put the mirrors in the middle of the fenders back then? It's got to be about the dumbest placement imaginable, as far as field of view is concerned (if there's any doubt, do the ray tracing and you'll see what I mean). I'd get 'em as close to the driver's eye as possible, authenticity be damned. Much better now. :-) -- John Miller >> From sbyers From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 09:01:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Mirror Placement There was no specific measurement for placement of the mirrors. Speaking only of BJ8s, very few cars came out of the factory with fender mirrors, and those were generally "Personal Export Delivery". Mirrors were usually fitted by the dealer only if the customer wanted them. My fendor mirrors are centered over the fender spears. Although anything other than mounted on the doors will be a pain to adjust, the mirrors out on the fenders look so right on these cars. I would avoid mounting them near the wheels because any vibration of the wheels will go straight into the mirrors. I have seen some centered over the wheel opening, but I think that's not the optimum location, both from potential vibration and the fact that they are so far away. I bought replacement mirrors from Moss a few years ago because my originals were pitted slightly on the support arms. What I got was exactly like my originals in configuration, except that they did not have the "Lucas" brand name on the circular spring plate. I simply removed the Lucas parts from my originalmirrors and installed them on the new ones. The quality of the new mirrors I bought from Moss was perfectly fine. My beef with Moss on the mirrors is with the silly little rubber pad they are supposed to be mounted on. The quality of the rubber is so bad, these crack and split within a year of being installed. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA >On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 09:47:49 -0500 Tom Blaskovics wrote. >I am planning to put a set of new mirrors on my BJ7. I want to use convex >mirrors on the fenders. Does anyone have the distance from the Headlight >ring >handy? Also any experience with Victoria British Ltd vs Moss vs Healey >Surgeons on the fit and finish >of the mirrors would be greatly appreciated. Victoria British is the cheapest >but................................... I am >a great believer in you get what you pay for. >TIA > >________________ >Happy Healeying >Tom Blaskovics >AHCUSA,ACHA >BJ7 Registry >HBJ7L/22380 >Morgantown, WV From Jnhorn at aol.com From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 12:05:29 EST Subject: Mirrors From Editorgary at aol.com From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 12:55:37 EST Subject: Re: V1 #1002 << ????????????? My policy with Hagerty has liability and medical payments included. >> The question is -- for how much? The standard required amount in most states wouldn't pay for a week in the hospital with a hang nail. You seriously want to look at getting maximum coverage and backing it up with an umbrella policy if you're even moderately well-off. They can go after your house, your possessions, your IRA (such as it is now) and anything else you've got laying around. Cheers Gary Anderson From "Jim MacDonald" From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 17:56:50 +0000 Subject: Mirror Placement _________________________________________________________________ MSN Shopping upgraded for the holidays! Snappier product search... http://shopping.msn.com From "Rich C" From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 15:06:00 -0500 Subject: Re: 100/4 Battery Cover ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Burke" To: Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 10:27 AM Subject: 100/4 Battery Cover > I have replaced the battery cover on a 100/4 and the fitting does not seem > to that good. In the center of the cover the lip overhangs the part below > by about 1/2 of an inch. At the outsides of the cover it fits quite well. > At first I thought that the replacement part was no good but upon closer > inspection the original part is almost identical. Is this the way these are > supposed to fit? Could someone with a 100/4 solve this for me. > thanks > > Brian From N0040 at aol.com From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:30:24 EST Subject: Re: Cylinder Leakage Tester However, if you are not worried about the rate, you don't need the second pressure gauge, nor the orifice. Simply pressurize to some pressure, say 50 psig, and shut off the line (must be an absolutely tight shut off valve and fittings), after the regulator with a pressure gauge between the cylinder and valve. The decay of pressure indicates the quality of leak. Testing all cylinders this way, would give you a "relative" rate by which a bad cylinder would stand out. i.e. seven cylinders decay at 5 psig / min. and one is 20 psig/min, you know where you're problem is. Same sort of feedback you get from a compression checker, which measures peak pressure obtained in stroke. The leakers don't make it up as high as the good cylinders. Best Regards, Bob - BJ8 Milford, MI From "scott willis" From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 18:33:55 -0600 Subject: Socket size for fron hub nut? Does anyone know the correct socket size? I've been to Lowes twice. Once for a 1" 1/4. Back for a 1"1/8. Returned. Next to Autozone for a 1"5/16. Had to buy $100 for that tool combo. Does not fit! That was recommended by the local MG guru. Also, what solvent is recomended for parts cleaners? Kerosen? Mineral Spirits? The parts cleaner says "solvent". Thanks. Scott _________________________________________________________________ Compare high-speed Internet plans, starting at $26.95. https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.) From Steve Gerow From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 17:33:45 -0800 Subject: Cylindar Leakage Tester Followup Careful shopping can buy the Leakage Tester with case on the Internet for around $70 plus shipping. I tested my #1 cylinder cold last night and it registered 5% down, with the air sound coming through the oil filler (past the rings), not the exhaust or coolant, and maybe thru the air cleaners--not too bad for a production car that smokes a little on startup. It showed 85 lbs on the input gauge and 80.5 on the plug-side gauge. Tonight will try it at BDC. -- Steve Steve Gerow President Abrazos Data Consulting, Inc. Dependable Database Development Pasadena California 626 398-1506 sgerow@singular.com FileMaker Solutions Alliance Member Associate Level From Blue One Hundred From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 17:37:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Mirror Placement Having mirrors located as far forward as possible helps you keep your eyes & head forward when looking in the rear view mirror. If you put the mirror next to your head... it is easier to adjust but you have to turn your head to look in the rear view. Many racers like to have mirrors as far forward as possible - Japanese particularly. The other advantage of fender forward mirrors is you can poke the car's nose out a bit when parallel parking and look back... it is very useful when pulling out from a parallel parking spot. At the end of the day, I'm considering dumping the rear view mirrors all together... I want to keep the lines clean. I'll just get one of those vent window mount mirrors running around the suppliers these days. No holes to drill and I can take it off anytime. Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- John Miller wrote: > On Thursday, November 13, 2003 09:47, Tom Blaskovics > wrote: > > I am planning to put a set of new mirrors on my > BJ7. I want to use convex > > mirrors on the fenders. Does anyone have the > distance from the Headlight > > ring > > handy? Also any experience with Victoria British > Ltd vs Moss vs Healey > > Surgeons on the fit and finish > > of the mirrors would be greatly appreciated. > Victoria British is the > > cheapest but................................... I > am > > a great believer in you get what you pay for. > > > Something I've wondered about recently; thanks for > providing the platform for > comment: Why in the world did we put the mirrors in > the middle of the fenders > back then? It's got to be about the dumbest > placement imaginable, as far as > field of view is concerned (if there's any doubt, do > the ray tracing and > you'll see what I mean). > > I'd get 'em as close to the driver's eye as > possible, authenticity be damned. > > > Much better now. :-) > -- > John Miller > > This sentence contradicts itself -- no actually it > doesn't. > -Douglas Hofstadter From "BJ8Healeys" From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:08:56 -0500 Subject: Re: Socket size for fron hub nut? A 1-1/8" six-point socket works just fine to remove the front hub nut from my BJ8. You removed the cotter pin, yes? I'm using a biodegradable solvent these days that smells like orange. I got it at Wal-Mart. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA ----- Original Message ----- From: scott willis To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com ; jbpate@attglobal.net ; healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 7:33 PM Subject: Socket size for fron hub nut? Hello listers, I am going insane trying to find a socket for the nut behind the grease cup inside the front hubs. I am trying to remove the front brake rotors to have them turned. Does anyone know the correct socket size? I've been to Lowes twice. Once for a 1" 1/4. Back for a 1"1/8. Returned. Next to Autozone for a 1"5/16. Had to buy $100 for that tool combo. Does not fit! That was recommended by the local MG guru. Also, what solvent is recomended for parts cleaners? Kerosen? Mineral Spirits? The parts cleaner says "solvent". Thanks. Scott _________________________________________________________________ From "Chris Masucci" From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 20:15:05 -0600 Subject: Re: Socket size for fron hub nut? I can't remember what size the hub nut is...sorry. Use kerosene for parts cleaner with a little Gunk degreaser mixed in. Mineral spirits (paint thinner) is much too volatile and the fumes will be a problem. The safest would be to track down a Safe-T-Kleen vendor and get a few gallons of their solvent. Cheers, Chris BJ8 > > Also, what solvent is recomended for parts cleaners? Kerosen? Mineral > Spirits? The parts cleaner says "solvent". > > Thanks. > Scott From Bob Denton From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:16:51 -0800 Subject: Re: Cylindar Leakage Tester FollowupSteve, Bob Denton Steve Gerow wrote: >Grainger sells the gauges for $3.20 each and the Regulator for $12.69. With >the 1/4" and 1/8" brass pipes, tees and couplings, the parts add up to about >$60. > >Careful shopping can buy the Leakage Tester with case on the Internet for >around $70 plus shipping. > >I tested my #1 cylinder cold last night and it registered 5% down, with the >air sound coming through the oil filler (past the rings), not the exhaust or >coolant, and maybe thru the air cleaners--not too bad for a production car >that smokes a little on startup. It showed 85 lbs on the input gauge and >80.5 on the plug-side gauge. > >Tonight will try it at BDC. From "BJ8Healeys" From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:37:02 -0500 Subject: Rear springs, BJ8 A non-list member BJ8 owner wants to replace his rear springs. I thought this had been pretty thoroughly covered not too long ago, but the archives don't reveal any useful answers. Does anyone have any experience with how available replacement rear springs hold up? Seems to me that list traffic some time ago indicated that new springs from some suppliers were sagging again after not much time. Healey Surgeons offers a pair of rear springs for about $285, while some other sources ask less than $200. Any experience out there with one or the other, or recommendations? Thanks, and Happy Healeying! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From Steve Gerow From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 18:46:05 -0800 Subject: Leakage Test Results I'm surprised, because the engine seems strong and doesn't smoke, except a puff at startup. I wonder if the engine should be hot. Will probably do a hot one over the weekend and will post then. Is the test supposed to be done hot? -- Steve Gerow Pasadena CA 59 BN6 From "John Snyder" From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:12:13 -0800 Subject: Re: Mirror Placement John Snyder From "Allen Adams" From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:27:59 -0800 Subject: Re: Mirror Placement Al Adams 1963 BJ7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Miller" To: "Austin Healey Group" Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 7:56 AM Subject: Re: Mirror Placement > On Thursday, November 13, 2003 09:47, Tom Blaskovics wrote: > > I am planning to put a set of new mirrors on my BJ7. I want to use convex > > mirrors on the fenders. Does anyone have the distance from the Headlight > > ring > > handy? Also any experience with Victoria British Ltd vs Moss vs Healey > > Surgeons on the fit and finish > > of the mirrors would be greatly appreciated. Victoria British is the > > cheapest but................................... I am > > a great believer in you get what you pay for. > > > Something I've wondered about recently; thanks for providing the platform for > comment: Why in the world did we put the mirrors in the middle of the fenders > back then? It's got to be about the dumbest placement imaginable, as far as > field of view is concerned (if there's any doubt, do the ray tracing and > you'll see what I mean). > > I'd get 'em as close to the driver's eye as possible, authenticity be damned. > > > Much better now. :-) > -- > John Miller > > This sentence contradicts itself -- no actually it doesn't. > -Douglas Hofstadter From Pat & Gary Rice From: To: Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:40:36 -0800 Subject: RE: RE: Healey Sighting From "Allen Adams" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:54:37 -0800 Subject: Re: Mirror Placement > No one has mentioned this yet, and I will probably get flamed, but one > solution is to use an older Harley Davidson (HOG) mirror. It has great > chrome, and fits perfectly in the driver's side side curtain socket, and > uses the same wing nut as the side curtain. You might need to cut just a > few more threads on the stem. No need to drill holes in that expensive > paint job, and can be moved from car to car. > > John Snyder > > ! From Dave & Marlene From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:04:08 -0700 Subject: Re: Rear springs, BJ8 Dave Russell BJ8Healeys wrote: > Hello, Healeyphiles - > > A non-list member BJ8 owner wants to replace his rear springs. I thought this > had been pretty thoroughly covered not too long ago, but the archives don't > reveal any useful answers. > > Does anyone have any experience with how available replacement rear springs > hold up? Seems to me that list traffic some time ago indicated that new > springs from some suppliers were sagging again after not much time. Healey > Surgeons offers a pair of rear springs for about $285, while some other > sources ask less than $200. Any experience out there with one or the other, > or recommendations? > > Thanks, and Happy Healeying! > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA From Dave & Marlene From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:09:29 -0700 Subject: Re: Leakage Test Results Did you READ this? For an aviation procedure see this link; http://www.aeas.com/PDF/m84_15.pdf Dave Russell Steve Gerow wrote: > My engine was pretty bad. Cold, most cylinders in the high mid teens and 2 > over 20% down. Best one 11% down. > > I'm surprised, because the engine seems strong and doesn't smoke, except a > puff at startup. > > I wonder if the engine should be hot. Will probably do a hot one over the > weekend and will post then. > > Is the test supposed to be done hot? From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 23:14:40 -0600 Subject: Re: Rear springs, BJ8 Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: BJ8Healeys To: Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 8:37 PM Subject: Rear springs, BJ8 > Hello, Healeyphiles - > > A non-list member BJ8 owner wants to replace his rear springs. I thought this > had been pretty thoroughly covered not too long ago, but the archives don't > reveal any useful answers. > > Does anyone have any experience with how available replacement rear springs > hold up? Seems to me that list traffic some time ago indicated that new > springs from some suppliers were sagging again after not much time. Healey > Surgeons offers a pair of rear springs for about $285, while some other > sources ask less than $200. Any experience out there with one or the other, > or recommendations? > > Thanks, and Happy Healeying! > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA From "Spencer Jackson" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 20:24:31 -0800 Subject: Wanted: mesh airfilter screen for BN2 Thanks, Spencer Jackson 56 BN2 From Dave Carpenter From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 23:41:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Subject: Covering instrument panel Dave From Dave & Marlene From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:46:04 -0700 Subject: Re: Rear springs, BJ8 - PS http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200205/msg00819.html Dave Russell BJ8Healeys wrote: > Hello, Healeyphiles - > > A non-list member BJ8 owner wants to replace his rear springs. I thought this > had been pretty thoroughly covered not too long ago, but the archives don't > reveal any useful answers. > > Does anyone have any experience with how available replacement rear springs > hold up? Seems to me that list traffic some time ago indicated that new > springs from some suppliers were sagging again after not much time. Healey > Surgeons offers a pair of rear springs for about $285, while some other > sources ask less than $200. Any experience out there with one or the other, > or recommendations? > > Thanks, and Happy Healeying! > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA From Dave Carpenter From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 00:15:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Mirror Placement Dave John Snyder wrote: >No one has mentioned this yet, and I will probably get flamed, but one >solution is to use an older Harley Davidson (HOG) mirror. From Steve Gerow From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:50:42 -0800 Subject: Leakage Test Followup BTW--finding TDC is really easy--just leave the unconnected hose in the spark plug hole in question and turn the crank, you'll hear the air stop coming out of the hose when it reaches TDC or BDC. I started with #1 at tdc and just followed the firing order around. 1-5-3-6-2-4. You can also make a 3-1/2" disc of paper, divide it into 6ths, number the marks 1-6 and put a 1/2" hole in the center. Find TDC on #1, then remove the distributor cap and rotor and install the disc so the #1 mark lines up with a tick mark you make on the distributor housing. Then turn the crank until it lines up with the next mark in the firing order. -- Steve Gerow Pasadena CA 59 BN6 From Steve Gerow From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:56:21 -0800 Subject: Yet another Cyl Leakage followup A Leakage or Leakdown test is superior to the Compression test, because listening to the source of the escaping air will tell you what's worn, and the percentage comparison between the two gauges will tell you how worn it is: Exhaust pipe--exhaust valves, Carb Intakes--intake valves, oil filler--rings, bubbles in the coolant--blown head gasket, air from adjacent plug hole--ditto blown head gasket. You can evidently analyze the cylinder walls by rotating the crank and watching the pressure go down. Of course, I'd been better off not knowing all this--because I don't have any intention of rebuilding my engine right now. BTW--sending 15 lbs through the hose into the cylinder rotates it down to BDC easily. -- Steve Gerow Pasadena CA 59 BN6 From Blue One Hundred From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 22:22:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: Wing Mirror Advice The talk of all the wing mirrors has gotten me thinking. I would like to replace the lucas style mirrors I have on my '64 BJ8's wings, located above the wheel well centre. The chrome is shot and I don't like how the Lucas mirrors stick up and also they get smacked by passers by all the time. I was thinking of either a Raydot style or Talbot style. The advantage of the Raydot is it has a one bolt mounting, which I prefer. Should I go with Aluminum, or chrome? Raydot or Talbot? I'd like to keep the lines of the car as clean as possible. I'll eventually get rid of them, probably, when I repaint the car in a few years anyway. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Regards Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From "Reid Trummel" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 07:12:32 +0000 Subject: FREE Sprites & Sprite Parts - No Joke Earlier this evening I received an email from Rick Moses (a.k.a. "Mr. Sprite"). Rick needs help to move, give away, and/or sell at "fire sale prices" a bunch of Sprites and Sprite parts. Rick is located in Hershey, Pennsylvania, and the 14 Sprites and the parts are located in New Cumberland, Pennsylvania. For those who don't know him, Rick is a lifelong fanatic for Sprites, and he has amassed a large collection of project cars and drivetrains and other parts. He has had many of them stored on two acres that belonged to his father. However, without getting into all of the grimy details, Rick has lost this storage on very short notice, and he needs to get everything removed from the property before November 22 -- barely over one week from right now. What doesn't get moved, gets sent to the dump. If you can help, if you need Sprite parts, if you want to acquire a Sprite project car at a bargain basement price (Rick is talking in terms of accepting "donations") or possibly even for free, please contact Rick. Most of these cars have titles. Most of the parts have been stored inside. If you're willing to help out a bit with loading and hauling stuff, you should be able to end up with a reward of some very cheap -- possibly even free -- Sprite project cars and/or parts. Rick has some limited alternative storage and a few buyers lined up, but there likely will not be room to store it all, and there likely will not be enough buyers -- even at near give-away prices -- for it all. Rick will be doing this Friday, Saturday and Sunday. His contact numbers are: 717-534-2222 (H) 717-534-2525 (O) (located at his home) 717-379-5752 (M). Please don't call to ask him to save things for you, or to store things for you until you can come and get it. Rick needs some help -- sweat, personal presence, etc. -- NOW to rescue this stuff. There's NO TIME to put it on eBay. He doesn't need helpful suggestions, he needs help. So, help Rick save some Sprites and Sprite parts, and acquire some for yourself. Thank you. Reid Reid Trummel Portland, Oregon 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master _________________________________________________________________ Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $26.95. https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.) From "Jack Feldman" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 05:22:44 -0600 Subject: Wing Mirrors A Problem HELP The reason for the location has been well documented by the replies. However, I just bought a pair, again from Moss via Jeff Zorn, and I didn't think they were convex. When mounted (on my MGBGT) they didn't show as much to the rear as the mirrors on the above cars. I sent them back claiming they were incorrect flat mirrors. When I compared them with the mirrors on the 3000, the 3000 showed a lot more distortion than the new ones so I though they were flat. I went to the parts store and looked at a number of those paste on convex blind spot mirrors and learned a lot. Once I decided that Jeff was right, I had a friend come over and held the mirrors next to the 3000 mirrors, and he said the new mirrors were not as convex as the old. THE PROBLEM: the mirrors I just purchased are not flat, they are just not as convex as the others. Jeff Zorn, who incidentally works very hard to keep his customers happy, said he has three sources.for mirrors, and the sell the same mirror. So, can anyone tell me what happened? Why the change? How do I get the proper mirror? Jack From Tracy Drummond From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 05:53:23 -0800 Subject: Re: Mirror Placement Tom Blaskovics wrote: >I am planning to put a set of new mirrors on my BJ7. I want to use convex >mirrors on the fenders. Does anyone have the distance from the Headlight >ring >handy? Also any experience with Victoria British Ltd vs Moss vs Healey >Surgeons on the fit and finish >of the mirrors would be greatly appreciated. Victoria British is the cheapest >but................................... I am >a great believer in you get what you pay for. >TIA > >________________ >Happy Healeying >Tom Blaskovics >AHCUSA,ACHA >BJ7 Registry >HBJ7L/22380 >Morgantown, WV From RAHosmer at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 09:47:06 EST Subject: Re: Mirror Placement That sounds like the best idea yet, at least for the fair weather driver who seldom/never uses the top (hood, sorry). But how did you ever get so lucky as to match the thread sizes? Could you be more specific as to type/brand, and source of mirror? Thanks!! Dick Hosmer BT7L18556 From "Keith Pennell" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 10:09:18 -0500 Subject: Computer Q This is a computer Q so delete if offended. I cannot open attachments. When I click on the attachment icon, the attachment title shows up in the box as does the save attachments request. Neither of them will function when I click on them. Any help out there? Keith Pennell From Brian N From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 07:30:15 -0800 Subject: Test message #1 From "Terry Disz" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 09:50:56 -0600 Subject: Re: Mirror Placement Told a salesperson what I had heard on the list and she directly brought out a very nice chrome round mirror that just fit into the passenger side curtain hole, threads were right - poof, instant mirror. I think it cost about $25.00 or so and it was a fun visit. Looks like it was made for it. Good luck, Terry BTL/18971 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Cc: Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 8:47 AM Subject: Re: Mirror Placement > Tracy, > > That sounds like the best idea yet, at least for the fair weather driver who > seldom/never uses the top (hood, sorry). But how did you ever get so lucky as > to match the thread sizes? Could you be more specific as to type/brand, and > source of mirror? Thanks!! > > Dick Hosmer > BT7L18556 From "Wm. Severin Thompson" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 09:09:23 -0600 Subject: RE: Mirror Placement The Harley mirror in the sidescreen placement is a wonderful solution for you folks that only have a roadster, and/or only drive in sunny weather. For those of us that drive in cold & wet weather with the top up, or those that have BJ7's and BJ8's, another solution for mirror placement is needed. I remember asking Walt Blanck many years ago (nearly 30... yikes), and his suggestion, which I've always favored, is 18" forward of the front fender / door gap, and 1" down from the fender bead. This placement allows for gerat visibility top up or down, and, you can reach the driver's side mirror in a pinch from the seat if you need to readjust. Try it, you'll like it. WST From "Ron Davies" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 08:24:02 -0800 Subject: RE: Mirror Placement From "Peter Hunt" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 18:26:12 -0000 Subject: Mirror Placement The final position of either or both mirrors on the wings will, to a large degree, depend on how easy is it to tighten up the nut on the inside of the wing. Well worthwhile investigating if you can get your hand and spanner/socket into position before drilling any holes in the Aluminium shroud. Generally, the further forward the better to reduce degree of eye/head movement. One shouldn't really move one's head to view any mirror - just your eyes. Peter Hunt From WilKo at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 13:35:50 EST Subject: Re: Mirror Placement Like this: http://members.aol.com/wilko Click the main car for a back view... Rick San Diego In a message dated 11/14/03 10:31:33 AM, peter@hunt.sol.co.uk writes: > The final position of either or both mirrors on the wings will, to a large > degree, depend on how easy is it to tighten up the nut on the inside of the > wing. > > Well worthwhile investigating if you can get your hand and spanner/socket > into > position before drilling any holes in the Aluminium shroud. Generally, the > further forward the better to reduce degree of eye/head movement. One > shouldn't really move one's head to view any mirror - just your eyes. > > Peter Hunt From Dean Caccavo From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 10:43:09 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Mirror Placement I have been looking for a third brake light that is period correct and my most promising source is HOG. I will have to check out the mirrors. Thanks for the advise... Dean --- John Snyder wrote: > No one has mentioned this yet, and I will probably > get flamed, but one > solution is to use an older Harley Davidson (HOG) > mirror. __________________________________ Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree From "Tom Blaskovics" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 14:53:04 -0500 Subject: Mirror Placement From Brian N From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 12:59:48 -0800 Subject: Backfire on throttle opening I've been playing around with the distributor and carbs, trying to get them all cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted. Any help is appreciated Brian N. From Dave & Marlene From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 16:28:34 -0700 Subject: Re: Backfire on throttle opening It likely means that the carb piston dampers don't have any oil in them or that the oil is too light viscosity. Remove the little caps on top of the carbs, pull out the damper rods & check the oil level down inside. The oil level should be about 1.5" down from the top of the housing. 20 wt oil is standard. People have used every type oil imaginable in the dampers. Usually something between 10wt & 40 wt is prefered. The dampers act as an accelerator pump by temporarily slowing the piston rise to create more suction on the main jet as the pistons rise in response to throttle opening. There are other posibilities for the problem but try this first. Dave Russell BN2 Brian N wrote: > Does this mean timing is too far advanced. > > I've been playing around with the distributor and carbs, trying to get > them all cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted. > > Any help is appreciated > > Brian N. From Michael Giroux From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 19:35:12 -0500 Subject: parts cross reference to real world description Is there a list which cross references Austin Healey ( 3000 BT7) part numbers ( or M**s #'s) for nuts,bolts, washers and screws to real every day over the counter description like,, 3/8 fine thread 2 1/2 inches long ? The reasons that I am asking are ...1- the car has been disassembled for far too may years and most of these items have been misplaced or should be replaced. 2- I would like to replace as many as possible with stainless. If such a thing exists where can I get it ?? Michael Giroux 62 BT7,71 TR6, 81 MALIBU (NOTHING EVEN CLOSE TO NEW) From Healeyolic From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 19:56:51 -0500 Subject: ID Plate on eBay John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ from the engine compartment to tighten it. From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 20:09:52 -0500 Subject: Re: Mirror Placement John BJ8s Wm. Severin Thompson wrote: >So, here's the deal.. > >The Harley mirror in the sidescreen placement is a wonderful solution for >you folks that only have a roadster, and/or only drive in sunny weather. > >For those of us that drive in cold & wet weather with the top up, or those >that have BJ7's and BJ8's, another solution for mirror placement is needed. > >I remember asking Walt Blanck many years ago (nearly 30... yikes), and his >suggestion, which I've always favored, is 18" forward of the front fender / >door gap, and 1" down from the fender bead. This placement allows for gerat >visibility top up or down, and, you can reach the driver's side mirror in a >pinch from the seat if you need to readjust. Try it, you'll like it. From "Keith Pennell" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 20:16:09 -0500 Subject: Re: Computer Q Updated Outlook about 2 months ago. That is about when the trouble began. Everything seems to be behaving now. Thanks Neil Keith > Keith, you probably have upgraded your Outlook Express or I am assuming you > have Express. If so I have run into that problem as well. So here goes....On > your tool bar on the top click "Tools" then "Options" and then the > "Security" tab....uncheck the box that says "Do Not Allow Attachments To Be > Opened......" Newer software security updates have enabled this > option....let me know....Neil > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Keith Pennell" > To: "Healeys (E-mail)" > Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 7:09 AM > Subject: Computer Q > > > > Listers, > > > > This is a computer Q so delete if offended. > > > > I cannot open attachments. When I click on the attachment icon, the > > attachment title shows up in the box as does the save attachments request. > > Neither of them will function when I click on them. Any help out there? > > > > Keith Pennell From Blue One Hundred From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 17:30:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Mirror Placement If you are thinking of putting on a Third Brake Light, have a look at mine and see if you like this: http://www.seigrist.com/TBL.html Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 --- Dean Caccavo wrote: > John - > > I have been looking for a third brake light that is > period correct and my most promising source is HOG. > I > will have to check out the mirrors. Thanks for the > advise... > > Dean > --- John Snyder wrote: > > No one has mentioned this yet, and I will probably > > get flamed, but one > > solution is to use an older Harley Davidson (HOG) > > mirror. From Brian N From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 18:00:30 -0800 Subject: Backfiring on Throttle Opening OK, here's what's up. I put 90 wt oil in the dashpots the other day. (It's what I had, and what has worked on other cars). So maybe it's too thick. The vacuum advance works fine. This was tested with a mity vac tool. The distributor has been totally serviced. Diaphram was repaired. Weights cleaned and lubricated. Dwell bench set to spec. Timing set per book and adjusted as needed. Shaft bushings verified to be within spec: no slop. So I will try thinner oil. Next is to take the carbs off and give them a complete going over. I don't think the jet diaphrams are bad, since the jet screws can be tightened to the point of causing the idling engine to quit. Both carbs behave the same in this respect. But the floats may not be set right. I have not opened up the bowls yet. Anyway, thanks for all the advice. From Brian N From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 18:07:18 -0800 Subject: Repairing the distributor vacuum advance diaphram So far it works. Apparently the defect was not too terrible. But it did leak down quite fast. I removed every part I could from the diaphragm assy. The rod remained, somehow being attached to the diaphragm center. But I took out the spring and centering tube from the other end. And from that end, its about a half inch hole, I poured in a generous gouppy shot of 3M weatherstrip adhesive. If you have ever worked with this stuff you know what I mean. I just figured I have gotten enough of it everywhere I didn't want it and couldn't get it off that it might make a good repair material on this rubber diaphragm. It sat overnight curing. Next day, BINGO! It works! Well, at least right now. We will see how LONG it works. That is a whole other question. So for what it is worth, this is the latest story from the Ixora laboratory Brian N. Santa Cruz, CA http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora.jpg From john spaur From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 22:01:12 -0800 Subject: Re: Leakage Test Results I have always found that a healey engine is at it's best just before it dies! :-) Only two experiences with this but it just seems that the engine is really singing and life is good; then BAM!! John '62 BT7 At 06:46 PM 11/13/03 -0800, Steve Gerow wrote: >...I'm surprised, because the engine seems strong and doesn't smoke, except a >puff at startup. From john spaur From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 22:32:41 -0800 Subject: RE: New Subject Would you enlighten me as to why those three little screws are so well hidden with that 'hide plate"? TIA John; from one that has been very frustrated because I forgot about how simple and deceptive the hide plate is. At 04:43 PM 11/2/03 -0500, Michael Salter wrote: >That is the way to go Bob, >There is a little tab which locates the hide plate. Lift the tab a little >then rotate the >plate until the 3 small slotted screw heads are revealed..... From SJNNOCK at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 22:53:20 EST Subject: : Mirror Placement as it was done at the dealer From SJNNOCK at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 22:57:29 EST Subject: : Mirror Placement as it was done at the dealer From "Greg Lemon" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 22:07:37 -0600 Subject: Re: Mirror Placement My healey came with flat mirrors mounted mid fender, not so good, small field of view far away. With the convex mounted up front you have no blind spot and don't have to take your eyes far off the road to see, and you pretty much get a view of the entire road behind you. That being said they are often out of adjustment because of being bumped and the difficulty of adjusting the mirror by yourself when they are out of arms reach, but when they are adjusted they work great. Happy Healying, Greg Lemon 54 BN1 From "bradley lawler" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 22:48:28 -0600 Subject: Looking for Danny Samyn I am looking for Danny Samyn from the Midwest Region. If anyone has a email address or I you get this Please email me. Brad Lawler 93 Black and Tan Miata Don't let school interfere with your education. --Mark Twain From Blue One Hundred From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 01:37:27 -0800 (PST) Subject: HD6 / HD8 Carb Rebuild Kit Quality Question. I noticed the dreaded fuel leaking out of the bottom of my HD8s (brand new, with about 2,000 miles on them). Took the HD8s out and realized that these carbs were assembled with el cheapo jet diaphrams (black color). I have heard several times on this list you have to be careful about what carb. rebuild kit you buy for a HD6/HD8 healey... particularly because of this problem. My Question - where do I get a decent kit that will have a jet diaphram that will last a long time? Are the official SU kits the ones to get? Thanks, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From Blue One Hundred From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 01:45:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Backfiring on Throttle Opening If it's not your dashpot oil, it'll be the fuel mixture... you've done everything else. FYI, these British Carburettors aren't like American Holley or Carter carbs - adjusting float levers DOES NOT effect the fuel mixture. Your car is "preigniting" (technically speaking) because the mixture is too lean. It sounds like you have a BJ8 because you are talking about screwing down the Jet Diaphrams (HD8 and HD6 carbs have them only)... well this screw is what changes the fuel mixture. It sounds like to me you slackened this screw off too much and either richened the mixture or leaned it out too much. You probably leaned it out. Tighten this screw down and the carb mixture will get richer. Follow the instructions in the manual... it gives you a very good procedure for tuning the carbs. email us back if you have any other questions. Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Brian N wrote: > Thanks for the many responses. > > OK, here's what's up. I put 90 wt oil in the > dashpots the other day. > (It's what I had, and what has worked on other > cars). So maybe it's too > thick. The vacuum advance works fine. This was > tested with a mity vac > tool. The distributor has been totally serviced. > Diaphram was > repaired. Weights cleaned and lubricated. Dwell > bench set to spec. > Timing set per book and adjusted as needed. Shaft > bushings verified to > be within spec: no slop. > > So I will try thinner oil. > > Next is to take the carbs off and give them a > complete going over. > > I don't think the jet diaphrams are bad, since the > jet screws can be > tightened to the point of causing the idling engine > to quit. Both carbs > behave the same in this respect. But the floats may > not be set right. > I have not opened up the bowls yet. > > Anyway, thanks for all the advice. From Jerry Wall From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 05:43:14 -0600 Subject: Re: Mirror Placement- safety precautions !! From bn1 at pacbell.net From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 04:33:30 -0800 Subject: Re: Repairing the distributor vacuum advance diaphram > This is an experiment. > > So far it works. > > Apparently the defect was not too terrible. But it did leak down quite > fast. Hey Healey List, If you haven't been to Brian's web site, go there: http://www.beachcitygas.com/ Great site, Brian, but it's blasphemy not having a pic with your station full of Healeys instead of woodies ;-) Bill Barnett '53 BN1 From "Gary R. Cox" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 07:48:22 -0500 Subject: Re: 100-4 photos ARE Prototype Gary R. Cox Bradenton, FL (finally Healey season is here) '67 BJ8 > Gerry Coker designed the rear bumper mounting BEFORE Geoff Healey had done > the gas tank location and installation. With the gas tank installed.... Ooops, > the brackets will not fit. So, the special braces were formed and welded to > the underside of the chassis to hold the rear bumper. From "Michael Salter" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 08:23:59 -0500 Subject: RE: New Subject I don't know for sure, but I suspect that it was to prevent the possibility of one of the little screws finding its way into the steering box if it came out. Not so likely in a Healey but in something like a Ford Prefect, which used the same switch, the column is more vertical which would increase the odds. Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john spaur Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 1:33 AM To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: RE: New Subject Mike, Would you enlighten me as to why those three little screws are so well hidden with that 'hide plate"? TIA John; from one that has been very frustrated because I forgot about how simple and deceptive the hide plate is. At 04:43 PM 11/2/03 -0500, Michael Salter wrote: >That is the way to go Bob, >There is a little tab which locates the hide plate. Lift the tab a little >then rotate the >plate until the 3 small slotted screw heads are revealed..... From HealeyRic2 at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 08:55:39 EST Subject: Re: Collector Car Insurance Revisited - Cobra Replica My understanding of the Cobra kit insurance price hike is that the insurers were getting too many claims on them. Unlike most collector cars, Cobra kits are generally driven like God and Carroll Shelby (ever notice no one ever saw the two of them together at the same time) intended them to be, drag racing, road courses, and , ahem, "contests on public roads". Claims on other collector cars are generally low because the cars are babied. Not so much with the plastic Cobras. Happy Healeying, Rick In a message dated 11/11/03 8:42:06 PM, dicksonr@uwm.edu writes: < From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 06:30:13 -0800 Subject: Re: Mirror Placement RAHosmer@aol.com wrote: >Tracy, > >That sounds like the best idea yet, at least for the fair weather driver who >seldom/never uses the top (hood, sorry). But how did you ever get so lucky as >to match the thread sizes? Could you be more specific as to type/brand, and >source of mirror? Thanks!! > >Dick Hosmer >BT7L18556 From deemi at juno.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 09:42:18 -0500 Subject: 1957 Paris Motor show Healey 100-6 I am in dilemma, I have a poor conditon but quite rare Healey, used at the Paris Motor Show in the fall of 1957 I have from Anders Clausager a letter and the BMIHT certificate stating "This car was built in the Longbridge factory as a display car for the Paris Motor Show." its was originally Colorado Red, with Grey interior and top It was sent to the AFIVA dealer in Paris ,then a copy of its warranty shows it sold to a Mr. F. Woll I tracked its history to Pennsylvannia, where it may have come over from a Serviceman I found it in VA, northeast of Mechanicsville, and purchased it from a Yard where it had been outside for nearly 30 years, it was hit in the right front and between this and the frame rust, it would be a technical challange to fix. It had odd kilometer per hours gauges and extra interior trim and kilopascal oil pressure gauges etc. The engine however was stored inside for 30 years and it is in much better shape, it has the upright pair of carbs. but its neat in the sense it has a deluxe interior, with bits of trim/leatherette going even in behind the top frame storage area etc. the grey interior is more of an off white. you can see where they painted it black underneath to get a better finish before the final coating in Colorado Red. I have stored this car since 1991 with the intent of restoring it, and have purchased more bits, etc. its options were Disc Wheels Heater Laminated windscreen Double verticle dip yellow headlamps Kilometers speedometer Less overdrive I wish I had some pictures to send now, but its in Richmond, VA in Storage, and I am in Maine. Quite a few Healey owners have seen it hidden in a box in the corner of my garage all these years (T.A.C.H.) I will consider offers, I want it to be restored as its of significant history. Austin- Healey at this point was lowering the standard price of the healey and adding more things standard as options, trying keep the price down. I am restoring a rare super sports morgan now and have a year or so to complete it, I will restore this Healey if I cant find it a proper home. I plan on moving it to Maine in the Spring and thus the note now. Reasonable offers considered. I also have a pile of healey 100-6/3000 engines and rear axles in the same predicament. Best Regards, Bob Bowie in Maine TACH former member Old Austin Healey Gentry Member (Healey owner since 1979) From "Fred Wescoe" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 12:26:53 -0500 Subject: Test, No Content, Delete From Awgertoo at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 12:37:10 EST Subject: Mirrors Best--Michael Oritt From "Mike Brouillette" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 13:14:44 -0500 Subject: 1963 Healey 707 Jetboat for sale on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2443327508&category=1296 From Healeyguy at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 13:30:30 EST Subject: Re: Backfiring on Throttle Opening > FYI, these British Carburettors aren't like American > Holley or Carter carbs - adjusting float levers DOES > NOT effect the fuel mixture. > Alan / Brian / Listers I'm not sure if Alan meant float levers or float levels but I can assure you that the float level does change the mixture on SU carbs. The carb is a basic siphon, if the float level is to high the fuel level will be to high at the main jet thereby making it rich. Too low has the opposite effect. Always insure the float levels are set correctly before starting any mixture adjustment. It will be very frustrating otherwise. Aloha Perry From "Fred Wescoe" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 15:43:16 -0500 Subject: Free Brakes I do not wish to start a new thread over this! This is not an auction! These brake pads are not for sale. Delete this message if you are not interested. I happened to be going thru some boxes of Healey stuff and came accross several items for my '63 BJ7. Amongst many items, I found a total of 3 sets of front brake pads. I will installed a set on my car and I am keeping a set as a spare. Therefore, I have 1 set left over. I doubt that I will ever need the 3rd set. Theses brakes pads are in their original sealed plastic packages from Moss, the numbers are 517-007, shown as front pads for all BN7s thru BJ8 (C #26704), pg 81, item #20, in the fall issue #2 Moss catalog, $58.95. They have the Asbestos Fiber disclaimer on the packages. I will give the brake pads away to a good lister home, to any lister willing to pay the postage. What kind of postage? Whichever method of shipping you might want. I will determine the postage cost, you can send a money order and I will send the pads. If it is still possible, I can send them COD. I will determine who gets the pads. Please respond off list if you are really interested. Thanks, Fred '63 BJ7 From Brian N From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 13:57:10 -0800 Subject: Thanks, Bill Barnett. Now you know the rest of the story... Bill noticed it at our web site: http://www.beachcitygas.com Hopefully the Healey club can come by for a photo op as well. But two summers ago we filled the gas station with woodies as part of the week long part known as Woodies On The Wharf here in Santa Cruz. The Plymouth Club has visited too, as well as the Harley club. Anyway, if you want to see a huge restoration project, visit my woodie pages at: http://www.beachcitygas.com/49plymouth/49plymouthsf.htm Many of the tools and techniques of the work (excepting the wood, of course) are transferable to almost any car project. Not only that, you won't feel alone after seeing all these progress photos. Be sure to visit all the pages listed at the bottom of my main woodie page. But now that the Plymouth is nearly finished, it seemed that a Healey would be the next car in the garage. It is Linda's birthday present in December. She always wanted one. So far is is successfully hidden across town. Thanks for all the helpful advice. I am sure more will be requested. Thanks. Brian Neuschwander Santa Cruz, CA http://www.beachcitygas.com/49plyico.jpg http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg From "Fred Wescoe" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 16:59:26 -0500 Subject: Gen Light & Fuel Pump I have researched the archives and cannot find complete answers. I purchased my '63 BJ7 25 years ago. Over the years, I have done a tremendous amount of work to the car. One of the first things I did to the car was to convert to an alternator and negative ground (24 years ago). I simply connected a line from the alternator to the "A" screw of the regulator to power the electrics. I did absolutly nothing else to the electrical system. The conversion has worked perfectly over all of these years and still does. With one exception. The "Generator" light has always been "on" and I could never figure out why. There have been recent postings to the effect that others have "gutted" the regulator, added fuse circuits to it and simply used it as a wiring center for the rest of the car. Can anyone enlighten me on this process, how and why? Does this resolve the "Gen" light issue? Second part of the unanswered questions. At the time of the alternator conversion, I did nothing to the fuel pump and it has worked flawlessly all these years. Recently, intermittently, the pump will not work when I turn the key on. I tried an old trick from my Triumph days and banged the pump lightly with a rubber hammer. The pump will work for days and then the process will start all over. I have never pulled the pump cap so I don't know if I have the diode or condenser on the points. There are archive comments about changing from the condensor to diode, reversing the diode for negative ground, etc. There are comments about replacement pumps, inline as well as parallel installation. Some owners even carry a spare pump, others swear by the replacement SU pumps. The questions are these: I would like to have a spare, universal, electric pump in parallel with the existing SU pump. What do I get, type, pressure, where, how much, how to install, where and do I need special wiring to activate it when the SU stops? Do I have to remove the existing SU pump? If I keep the existing SU, what do I need to do to make it more reliable, switch from condenser to diode, reverse diode and so on.? From Awgertoo at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 17:30:44 EST Subject: Fuel Pump > I would like to have a spare, universal, electric pump in parallel with the > existing SU pump. What do I get, type, pressure, where, how much, how to > install, where and do I need special wiring to activate it when the SU stops? > Do I have to remove the existing SU pump? If I keep the existing SU, what do > I need to do to make it more reliable, switch from condenser to diode, > reverse diode and so on? You'll probably get a lot of input on this topic but here's my experience: About three years ago when I converted the car to negative ground I installed a solid-state SU pump. About a year later I wanted to install a backup pump, permanently plumbed and wired. I cut the fuel line between the tank and the top of the wheel arch, first installed a large clear fuel filter and then a NAPA pump in the 2-5 psi version, then connected up to the SU, all connections made with flexible fuel hose and clamps. I wired in a three-way switch (on-off-on) behind the driver's seat to select between the pumps and also provide a level of theft security. Both pumps are diaphragm pumps--the SU, on which I normally run the car, will "pull" thru the NAPA pump and the NAPA pump will "push" through the SU. Others have written about plumbing the pumps in parallel--I initially tried this without any shutoff or check valves and found that I was getting fuel starvation at high speeds--I could only figure that a certain amount of the fuel was "going around in circles" from one pump and back through the other, this despite assertions that both pumps have built-in check valves. Good luck--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans From "tom felts" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 20:23:19 -0500 Subject: RE: Mirrors Tom > [Original Message] > From: > To: > Date: 11/13/03 12:09:05 PM > Subject: Mirrors > > I picked up a set of Talbot mirrors which I would recommend. They are > beautiful. > Jon Einhorn > BJ8 From "tom felts" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 20:23:16 -0500 Subject: Re: V1 #1002 Cheers Tom > [Original Message] > From: > To: > Date: 11/13/03 12:59:15 PM > Subject: Re: V1 #1002 > > In a message dated 11/12/03 7:13:28 PM, owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net > writes: > > << ????????????? My policy with Hagerty has liability and medical payments > included. >> > > The question is -- for how much? The standard required amount in most states > wouldn't pay for a week in the hospital with a hang nail. You seriously want > to look at getting maximum coverage and backing it up with an umbrella policy > if you're even moderately well-off. They can go after your house, your > possessions, your IRA (such as it is now) and anything else you've got laying around. > Cheers > Gary Anderson > > ! From "F. Ronald Rader" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 18:38:40 -0800 Subject: One picture worth 1,000 words! From "F. Ronald Rader" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 18:45:57 -0800 Subject: my apologies From SJNNOCK at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 00:36:08 EST Subject: Re: parts cross reference to real world description From "Marge and/or Len" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 21:51:59 -0800 Subject: Re: Mirrors Since others are commenting on mirror location, I will add that when I acquired my Healey (third hand but with less than 15,000 miles on the odo), it had a mirror on the left shroud about an inch in from the fender bead and 21 inches from the door. It has been a long time, but as I recall it was convex and spring loaded so if bumped, it returned to its original position. The radio antenna was located in about the same location on the right side. Since it did not give me the view I desired, I replace it with two bullet type on the doors. I then took a 2 inch convex mirror and cut it in half. I stuck half on the outer edge of each mirror. This gives me a flat surface mirror with which I can more accurately judge distance and a convex mirror that gives me a wide perspective. Works for me....but they don't have "Objects may be closer than they appear" printed on them. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom felts" To: ; Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2003 5:23 PM Subject: RE: Mirrors > In 24 years of driving my BJ8, I have never had outside mirrors. I like > the smooth look of no-mirrors. Also, none on my E-Type. > > Tom > > > > [Original Message] > > From: > > To: > > Date: 11/13/03 12:09:05 PM > > Subject: Mirrors > > > > I picked up a set of Talbot mirrors which I would recommend. They are > > beautiful. > > Jon Einhorn > > BJ8 From "Esko & Megan Cate" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 12:56:25 -0800 Subject: How rich should it be? Esko BJ7 From Dave & Marlene From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 15:49:58 -0700 Subject: Re: How rich should it be? My experience with Healeys is that they seem to run best when set slightly rich as you describe. If you want to fiddle with the mixture adjustment this reference should help; http://heine.nusa.co.za/Library/SU%20Carburettors.htm Too lean will cause more problems than a little too rich. It would have to be set very lean to require 10 minutes of choke. Dave Russell Esko & Megan Cate wrote: > My impression has been that my BJ7 carbs are set too rich. The car starts > with only a little choke and within a few seconds, the choke can be totally > eliminated. I was told that it should need the choke for up to ten minutes, > until the engine is really warmed up. The car runs fine, even when warm but > does smoke a bit of grey smoke. Is there a good description of how to > adjust them to "the correct level"? Is the comment about it should need the > choke on for several minutes accurate? Thanks > > Esko > BJ7 From "Greg Lemon" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 17:44:30 -0600 Subject: Re: How rich should it be? For example 85 degrees (farenheit) out, car starts with no choke, or little choke and runs fine once started withour any choke. 20 degrees choke is needed to start the car, and may need to be on for several minutes before engine will accelerate without a miss. That was my experience when using britmobiles with SU carbs year round as daily drivers. Happy Healeying Greg Lemon 54 BN1 > My impression has been that my BJ7 carbs are set too rich. The car starts > with only a little choke and within a few seconds, the choke can be totally > eliminated. I was told that it should need the choke for up to ten minutes, > until the engine is really warmed up. The car runs fine, even when warm but > does smoke a bit of grey smoke. Is there a good description of how to > adjust them to "the correct level"? Is the comment about it should need the > choke on for several minutes accurate? Thanks From Dave Carpenter From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 19:08:32 -0500 Subject: carbs/vacuum/timing It has always been a procedure to remove the vacuum line when setting timing on any car I worked on. Usually the engine will change RPM when the line is pulled, run rougher, slower, etc. When I was setting timing on my BJ8, I find nothing happens when I pull the line from the carb fitting. There appears to be no vacuum, no pull against my finger and no change in idle. Could some carbon build up be blocking it inside? Any sugestions before I go taking things apart? Thanks Dave From Healeyguy at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 02:57:39 EST Subject: Re: Backfiring on Throttle Opening From "tom felts" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 08:50:15 -0500 Subject: Re: Mirrors Cheers tom > [Original Message] > From: Marge and/or Len > To: Healeys Mailing List > Date: 11/16/03 12:52:00 AM > Subject: Re: Mirrors > > Tom: You couldn't get away with that in California. CA Vehicle Code, > Section 26709, requires that all registered vehicles be equipped with not > less than two mirrors, including one affixed to the left-hand side. If you > are towing something and it obstructs your view, then a mirror is required > on the right side, also. (I have towed a 15 foot catamaran a few times) > > Since others are commenting on mirror location, I will add that when I > acquired my Healey (third hand but with less than 15,000 miles on the odo), > it had a mirror on the left shroud about an inch in from the fender bead and > 21 inches from the door. It has been a long time, but as I recall it was > convex and spring loaded so if bumped, it returned to its original position. > The radio antenna was located in about the same location on the right side. > Since it did not give me the view I desired, I replace it with two bullet > type on the doors. I then took a 2 inch convex mirror and cut it in half. > I stuck half on the outer edge of each mirror. This gives me a flat surface > mirror with which I can more accurately judge distance and a convex mirror > that gives me a wide perspective. Works for me....but they don't have > "Objects may be closer than they appear" printed on them. > > (The Other) Len > Vacaville, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "tom felts" > To: ; > Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2003 5:23 PM > Subject: RE: Mirrors > > > > In 24 years of driving my BJ8, I have never had outside mirrors. I like > > the smooth look of no-mirrors. Also, none on my E-Type. > > > > Tom A From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com> From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 17:35:40 +0100 Subject: Looking for Russ Bamsey TIA Magnus Karlsson SWEDEN From Brian N From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 08:39:15 -0800 Subject: Healey List and Spam Filters The healeys@autox.team.net was filtered too, since it sends bulk emails. But that, being a single address, has been added as an OK sender. I say all this because one of the downsides of spam filtering is that with the popularity and necessity of spam filtering, well intended email from the free accounts may become increasingly trashed without the senders knowing it. Perhaps it falls into the "you get what you pay for" category. Or maybe the spam industry has just ruined a good thing, the free email services. Some of the official club accounts are on hotmail and aol. These I have tried to opt in on the filter. But for rank and file list members, responding through the healeys list gives a better chance of bypassing the spam filters. To be sure, more and more members will be using spam filters in the future. Spam is such a growing problem, especially if you maintain your own web site. This is where early on our web site email address, the object of most of the spam, was botted. A few months ago I was gone for four days. When I returned, I could not download all the email. I finally called my ISP to empty the file. They told me there were over TEN THOUSAND emails in those four days! Now virtually nothing gets through that is unwanted. But a acceptable few emails do get left out. So if you are using a freebie account, be aware that sometimes your emails may not get to their destinations. From "cymru" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 10:57:07 -0800 Subject: Finishing of Front shock bodies They were bought new approx. 6 years ago and they have since accumulated a dull patina on the main bodies due to them sitting on my workbench for that period of time (Yes, uncovered !). I would like to finish the shock bodies to a natural (unpainted) bright appearance with a final clear coat to protect, if necessary. What would be the best approach ? A light blasting, buffing, or a chemical cleanse? I am painting the shock arms with the appropriate black paint finish. Regards, cymru california BJ7 From John Loftus From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 10:01:44 -0800 Subject: Re: parts cross reference to real world description Someone on the list put together the following cross reference for the hardware codes to fractional sizes. Sorry ... can't remember who made it or I would give them credit but perhaps you will find it handy as I have. Cheers, John ---------------- Diameters of bolts [and thread size of hex nuts, last 2 digits] 02.. 1/8 (3,2) 03.. 3/16 (4,8) 04.. 1/4 (6,3) 05.. 5/16 (7,9) 06.. 3/8 (9,5) 07.. 7/16 (11,1) 08.. 1/2 (12,7) Lengths of hex head bolts ..02 1/4 (6,3) ..03 3/8 (9,5) ..04 1/2 (12,7) ..05 5/8 (15,9) ..06 3/4 (19,1) ..07 7/8 (22,2) ..08 1 (25,4) ..09 1.1/8 (28,6) ..10 1.1/4 (31,8) ..11 1.3/8 (34,9) ..12 1.1/2 (38,1) ..13 1.5/8 (41,3) ..14 1.3/4 (44,5) ..16 2 (50,8) ..18 2.1/4 (57,2) ..20 2.5 (63,5) ..22 2.3/4 (69,9) ..24 3 (76,2) ..26 3.1/4 (82,6) ..38 4.3/4 (120,7) Lengths of slotted scews/Pozidriv/Phillips ..04 1/4 (6,3) ..05 5/16 (7,9) ..06 3/8 (9,5) ..07 7/16 (11,1) ..08 1/2 (12,7) ..09 9/16 (14,3) ..10 5/8 (15,9) ..11 11/16 (17,5) ..12 3/4 (19,1) ..14 7/8 (22,2) ..20 1.1/4 (31,7) ..22 1.3/8 (34,9) ..24 1.1/2 (38,1) ..26 1.5/8 (41,3) ..38 2.3/8 (60,3) From "Fred Wescoe" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 11:41:56 -0500 Subject: Free Brakes There were many who responded to the brake pads. Thanks to all, I wish I had more sets but .... they are going to a good car. Thanks, Fred '63 BJ7 From Brian N From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 16:55:08 -0800 Subject: Re: carbs/vacuum/timing I find nothing happens when I pull the line from the carb fitting. There appears to be no vacuum, no pull against my finger and no change in idle. Could some carbon build up be blocking it inside? ============================= Yep, that's my guess. I had mine apart and tested it with a gauge on each end. The tube is so small it can block easily. Mine was blocked at the carb fitting. If you have a small pad with the tube fitting screwed to the rear carb with two screws, remove it and clean. You will see how tiny the orifice is. Us a fine wire to clean out. Open the throttle a bit as the hole is right at the throttle plate. The gasket might be all messed up with carbon, too. So you might want to cut a new one if the old one disintegrates upon cleaning. Try to clean out the entire tube with some carb cleaner and compressed air. Detach both ends first, of course. You may also have a similar problem I had at the same time. A defective advance diaphragm on the distributor. With a clean and clear tube, reconnect the distributor end, and draw about five or ten inches of vacuum on the carb end. With the cap off the distributor, observe the breaker points plate for rotation on account of the retracting rod connected to the diaphragm. To retraction, no advance. You may have a leak there and the engine is just tuned to live with it. I find on old cars there are many defects that are either ignorantly endured by us, or adjusted to by other means. The cars won't run the way they were really supposed to but, hey, who of us drove these off the new car lot 40 years ago and can make a comparison? That's why I always like to clean up the basics. Old cars have a lot of basics. New cars? Fugetaboutit. Its all in the software. Hope this helps. Email me if you have more questions. Brian N. Santa Cruz, CA http://www.beachcitygas.com From "Peter Schauss" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 20:04:11 -0500 Subject: RE: How rich should it be? - If the engine speed increases, the mixture is too rich. - If the engine speed decreases, the mixture is too lean. - If the engine speed increases and then drops, the mixture is correct. HTH, Peter Schauss 1980 MGB 1963 BJ7 -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Esko & Megan Cate Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2003 3:56 PM To: 'Healeys Mailing List' Cc: clocks@midcoast.com Subject: How rich should it be? My impression has been that my BJ7 carbs are set too rich. The car starts with only a little choke and within a few seconds, the choke can be totally eliminated. I was told that it should need the choke for up to ten minutes, until the engine is really warmed up. The car runs fine, even when warm but does smoke a bit of grey smoke. Is there a good description of how to adjust them to "the correct level"? Is the comment about it should need the choke on for several minutes accurate? Thanks Esko BJ7 From "Bob Spidell" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 17:13:36 -0800 Subject: Re: How rich should it be? I've tried seveal methods, including ColorTune (I have 2, one for each carb) and I have to say the "official" method--using the lifting pins--works as good or better than any. The lifting pins lift the vacuum piston, and the needle, causing a lean mixture. You should lift the pistons 1/32", and if you get a momentary, slight increase in RPM and then a return to the initial RPM the carbs are Goldilocks -- "just right." If the RPM increases then you're running some degree richer than optimum, which is OK if you like, but too rich and you'll get black smoke. How do you know if you've lifted the piston exactly 1/32? It's hard to tell unless you have one of the simple, and inexpensive, SU tuning kits with two wire indicators that you stick in the top of the damper piston. The wires are about 1/32" in diameter so if you lift one piston the width of a wire you've raised it about right. They can also tell you if the airflow in both carbs is the same at any throttle setting. Get one of these kits -- the "usual susects" all sell them -- and the instructions alone are worth the cost (last time I priced the kit it was about $15). If you don't have the SU kit -- I recomment you get one, because it has a plug to help center the jets when you install new jets -- you can just tune for max RPM then enrichen a quarter turn or so. This gets you what's known in aviation as the "best power" setting, which is probably about 12:1 weight:weight air to fuel. bs ******************************************** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M ******************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Esko & Megan Cate" To: "'Healeys Mailing List'" Cc: Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2003 12:56 PM Subject: How rich should it be? > My impression has been that my BJ7 carbs are set too rich. The car starts > with only a little choke and within a few seconds, the choke can be totally > eliminated. I was told that it should need the choke for up to ten minutes, > until the engine is really warmed up. The car runs fine, even when warm but > does smoke a bit of grey smoke. Is there a good description of how to > adjust them to "the correct level"? Is the comment about it should need the > choke on for several minutes accurate? Thanks > > Esko > BJ7 From "Wm. Severin Thompson" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 19:22:19 -0600 Subject: paypal virus I had three of these virus e-mails from "paypal" (not) today when I got home. Don't open 'em, and surely (don't call me Shirley) run the application that's attached. From SJNNOCK at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 20:28:58 EST Subject: : Mirror Placement as it was done at the dealer From Dave & Marlene From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 19:19:06 -0700 Subject: Re: carbs/vacuum/timing Ported vacuum is taken off the carb at a point on the none engine side of the throttle plate & there is vacuum only when the throttle plate is opened. A ported vacuum system will not have any affect on the distributor if the idle is set at a reasonably slow rpm. (Throttles mostly closed). Your engine "should be setup to use ported vacuum, unless someone has changed it, thus no vacuum. Open the throttle & see if vacuum appears. Dave Russell BN2 Dave Carpenter wrote: > Hi all, > > It has always been a procedure to remove the vacuum line when setting > timing on any car I worked on. Usually the engine will change RPM when > the line is pulled, run rougher, slower, etc. When I was setting timing > on my BJ8, I find nothing happens when I pull the line from the carb > fitting. There appears to be no vacuum, no pull against my finger and no > change in idle. Could some carbon build up be blocking it inside? Any > sugestions before I go taking things apart? > > Thanks > Dave From Blue One Hundred From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 18:30:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: How rich should it be? The lifting pin method is the best way to go. It really works and is simple. Not to throw a spanner in the works here... but incidentally this tuning method only tunes the carbs at idle - the only way to really properly tune SUs is on the track with a lean needle, sandpaper, a gas analyzer and about 20 hours of futzing around!! Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From "J. Scott Morris" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 22:08:24 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Looking for Russ Bamsey Russ has a new email address. Here is the information you asked for. eMail address : "Russ Bamsey" sMail address : 14 McCammon Street, Paris, Ontario, Canada N3L 1V9 Phone : [519] 442-3673 Russ is well known in this area [Southern Ontario, Canada] for his rebuilding of hydraulic shock absorbers, Armstrong or otherwise. I've seen him doing a rebuild and he does an excellent job - one of the best. Aside from his day job [he is a health and safety expert] and working on rebuilding lever shocks, Russ is coming close to the end of a ground up BJ7 restoration. What I don't understand is how he convinced his wife, Natalie, that her 356 Porsche had to sit in the wings awaiting restoration. He must be very smooth. --Scott Morris [62 3000 BT7 tricarb-driver; 60 3000 BN7-project] --- Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson@telia.com> wrote: << Does anyone have his current e-mail adress or real adress? TIA --Magnus Karlsson SWEDEN >> ===== J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives ______________________________________________________________________ Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca From Blue One Hundred From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 19:10:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Healey List and Spam Filters I use a Yahoo account, and I have to say the spam filter on Yahoo is second to none. Only on rare occasion does it misplace an email... and I never have list emails dumped in the spam filter. Even if it does dump a non-spam email into the trash, you can always identify the mail as "not spam" and after one or two times of doing this the Yahoo filter figures it out and it never makes the same mistake again. The yahoo spam filter is really amazing! Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Brian N wrote: > Some of the return messages get missed because on > account of responders > using free email services such as aol, hotmail, > yahoo. My ISP filters > all of those, as well as hundreds of known spam > senders, unless the > filter is adjusted for each email address. This is > impossible on a > group list. > > The healeys@autox.team.net was filtered too, since > it sends bulk emails. > But that, being a single address, has been added > as an OK sender. > > I say all this because one of the downsides of spam > filtering is that > with the popularity and necessity of spam filtering, > well intended email > from the free accounts may become increasingly > trashed without the > senders knowing it. Perhaps it falls into the "you > get what you pay > for" category. Or maybe the spam industry has just > ruined a good thing, > the free email services. > > Some of the official club accounts are on hotmail > and aol. These I have > tried to opt in on the filter. But for rank and > file list members, > responding through the healeys list gives a better > chance of bypassing > the spam filters. To be sure, more and more members > will be using spam > filters in the future. > > Spam is such a growing problem, especially if you > maintain your own web > site. This is where early on our web site email > address, the object of > most of the spam, was botted. A few months ago I > was gone for four > days. When I returned, I could not download all the > email. I finally > called my ISP to empty the file. They told me there > were over TEN > THOUSAND emails in those four days! > > Now virtually nothing gets through that is unwanted. > But a acceptable > few emails do get left out. So if you are using a > freebie account, be > aware that sometimes your emails may not get to > their destinations. From "Esko & Megan Cate" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 20:03:00 -0800 Subject: Redoing king pins Esko BJ7 From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 23:34:16 -0600 Subject: "Tech Session" time again So what are my options here. 1- Can I run the layshaft with one less needle bearing? 2-The side cover has already been sealed and bolted shut and I really don't want to remove it unless absolutely necessary. The O/D adaptor plate is off. Would it be possible to drive the layshaft out towards the front just enough to slip the bearing through the shaft hole into position with mucho grease and then back the layshaft back up. 3- Put the whole car project away for a couple of years and come back refreshed. :( My sanity rests on your answers. Thanks gentlemen, Mark From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 23:38:07 -0600 Subject: Re: Redoing king pins ML ----- Original Message ----- From: Esko & Megan Cate To: 'Healeys Mailing List' Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2003 10:03 PM Subject: Redoing king pins > Any recommendations for shops that do a good job of refurbishing king pins, > in the Seattle area? Anyone had experience with Tru-Line? > > Esko > BJ7 From Blue One Hundred From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 22:09:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Thanks, Bill Barnett. Now you know the rest of the Just out of interest, what is that huge boat tailed roadster you have two pictures of on your website? If kinda reminds me of that massive Chrysler Racer that Jay Leno brought to Pebble Beach a few years back... is it for real or is it just a converted Semi? Cheers, Alan --- Brian N wrote: > All this Healey stuff has is both new and ancillary > to what has been my > car life. Though sports cars were large in our > past, such as my wife's > Spitfire, which we sold earlier this year after a > decade of fun, the > real nuts and bolts of my car world for the past few > years has been my > 1949 Plymouth Woodie. > > Bill noticed it at our web site: > > http://www.beachcitygas.com > > Hopefully the Healey club can come by for a photo op > as well. But two > summers ago we filled the gas station with woodies > as part of the week > long part known as Woodies On The Wharf here in > Santa Cruz. > > The Plymouth Club has visited too, as well as the > Harley club. > > Anyway, if you want to see a huge restoration > project, visit my woodie > pages at: > > http://www.beachcitygas.com/49plymouth/49plymouthsf.htm > > Many of the tools and techniques of the work > (excepting the wood, of > course) are transferable to almost any car project. > Not only that, you > won't feel alone after seeing all these progress > photos. Be sure to > visit all the pages listed at the bottom of my main > woodie page. > > But now that the Plymouth is nearly finished, it > seemed that a Healey > would be the next car in the garage. It is Linda's > birthday present in > December. She always wanted one. So far is is > successfully hidden > across town. > > Thanks for all the helpful advice. I am sure more > will be requested. > > Thanks. > > Brian Neuschwander > Santa Cruz, CA > http://www.beachcitygas.com/49plyico.jpg > http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg From Dave & Marlene From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 23:17:36 -0700 Subject: Re: "Tech Session" time again Dave Russell BN2 Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote: > > 1- Can I run the layshaft with one less needle bearing? From Brian N From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 22:19:50 -0800 Subject: 900 Cubic Inch V-12 Flathead in a... "what is that huge boat tailed roadster you have two pictures of on your website?" ====================================================================== That monster roadster is a 1941 Seagraves. It is the front section of a Los Angeles Fire Department hook and ladder truck. Rebodied, of course, by Mike Leeds, a rather cleaver local (loco?) metal worker. It looks like Toon Town meets Dr. Seuss. Mike was kind enough (or demonic enough) to take me for a ride on a local mountain highway. Think of going around corners Healey style--five feet off the road, instead of five inches. http://www.beachcitygas.com/sg2big.jpg http://www.beachcitygas.com/sg1big.jpg BTW, it is powered by a 900 c.i.d. flathead V-12 motor. Yes, NINE HUNDRED CUBIC INCHES! 24 spark plugs. Sounds kind of like a giant sewing machine at idle. No, the motor won't fit in a BJ8 Brian N. Santa Cruz http://www.beachcitygas.com From Dave & Marlene From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 23:20:01 -0700 Subject: Re: Redoing king pins Dave Russell Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote: > NOT VONS in SC. > > ML > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Esko & Megan Cate > To: 'Healeys Mailing List' > Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2003 10:03 PM > Subject: Redoing king pins > > > >>Any recommendations for shops that do a good job of refurbishing king > > pins, > >>in the Seattle area? Anyone had experience with Tru-Line? >> >>Esko >>BJ7 From Ron Fine From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 23:12:32 -0800 Subject: Steerling Wheel fit From Blue One Hundred From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 00:53:18 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Steerling Wheel fit Yes, the steering wheel column will fit but you will have to replace the trafficator with an adjustable type, if your BN7 has a non-adjustable column. This can be an expensive item! I think you may be able to use the old non-adjustable trafficator... but if you do you will not be able to adjust the steering. Why do you want to do this anyway? In general the non-adjustable column actually gives you a little more arm space/room than the adjustable... although servicing the trafficator on a non-adjustable column is more complicated. cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Ron Fine wrote: > Will an adjustable steering wheel taken from a '68 > BJ8 fit a 61 BN7?? > And if so, would I need to replace any of the > center parts (horn or > turn signal indicator)?? > Ron > 61BN7 From WilKo at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 04:18:50 EST Subject: Re: How rich should it be? > re: "Is there a good description of how to > adjust them to "the correct level"? > That SU kit comes with another tube that has two outer diameters to use to set the float levers. They are to be set so that the floats close the jets when the bowls have the right level. From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 05:54:48 -0600 Subject: Re: Redoing king pins Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave & Marlene To: Mark and kathy LaPierre Cc: Esko & Megan Cate ; 'Healeys Mailing List' Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 12:20 AM Subject: Re: Redoing king pins > SC is not in the Seattle area, last I looked. > > Dave Russell > > Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote: > > NOT VONS in SC. > > > > ML > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Esko & Megan Cate > > To: 'Healeys Mailing List' > > Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2003 10:03 PM > > Subject: Redoing king pins > > > > > > > >>Any recommendations for shops that do a good job of refurbishing king > > > > pins, > > > >>in the Seattle area? Anyone had experience with Tru-Line? > >> > >>Esko > >>BJ7 From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 08:46:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Z3 race 1. When BMW decided to jetison the Z3 due to flagging sales, they targeted the new generation with, what else, a German car masuquerading as a Japanese car imitating a German car. Olive drab was second only to barf brown in the pallette of standard '80's Japanese rust buckets. 2. When BMW unveiled its new Ice Age monstrosity to focus groups, it furished cardstock and paintboxes for the respondents to record their first-impression senses of appropriate color schemes. On seeing the Z4 unveiled for the first time, several viewers in the first row vomited, spewing their martini olives on the cards. Since BMW has no internal color-design specialists, they took these first impressions literally and ran the barf-stained cards through the scanner. 3. Several members of the design team lost their viginity wearing Leiderhosen. allen miller > I saw a new Z4 the other day in olive drab. What are these Germans thinking > is a sporty color?? > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 From Michael Giroux From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 09:11:37 -0500 Subject: Thanks for responses to... parts cross reference to real world Michael Giroux 62 BT7,71 TR6, 81 MALIBU (NOTHING EVEN CLOSE TO NEW) From John Miller From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 10:00:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Z3 race > 3. Several members of the design team lost their viginity wearing > Leiderhosen. Hi, Cousin Al -- ...Leiderhosen, or sad pants, not to be confused with lederhosen, leather pants. :-) -- John Miller ...and especially not liederhosen, or song pants. From Dean Caccavo From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 07:44:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: How rich should it be? - ColorTime Last time we played with ColorTune we spend a few hours smoking up the garage and house, anoying the neighors and then setting the carbs with the SU wires. ColorTune is interesting, but the problem I have is I could never really tell the difference between blue, light-blue, lighter-blue and then slightly-lighter-blue... Dean BN7 (OEW) > > I've tried seveal methods, including ColorTune (I > have 2, one > for each carb) and I have to say the "official" > method--using > the lifting pins--works as good or better than any. > __________________________________ Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree From Earl Kagna From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 08:02:13 -0800 Subject: Re: "Tech Session" time again What a bummer! Sometimes this hobby can be frustrating as hell. My advice is to tear it down again and make sure everything is right before it goes back in the car - much easier to do now than to have to rebuild again later with the possibilty of major damage in the gearbox, (and possibly even the overdrive) from any loose bits floating around in there. If you are not already doing so, it helps to use a dummy layshaft, mine's made from a large suitably sized bolt - ie: exact same diameter - cut to precisely the right length in order be able to slip the laygear and its contents into position, and then push the real layshaft through and into it's final position. Fun, ain't it! Earl Kagna Victoria, B. C. Canada '62 BT7 tri-carb '67 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" To: Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2003 9:34 PM Subject: "Tech Session" time again Trany techs, I am in the process of buttoning up my sideshift Bt7 trany for the last time after a few dry runs and came across a real pisser (spell check) . As I took of the bell housing off to install the gasket I noticed an interesting protrusion coming out of the hole in the layshaft, almost like it was sticking its tongue out at me. A FRIGGIN NEEDLE BEARING!!!!!!!!!!! So what are my options here. 1- Can I run the layshaft with one less needle bearing? 2-The side cover has already been sealed and bolted shut and I really don't want to remove it unless absolutely necessary. The O/D adaptor plate is off. Would it be possible to drive the layshaft out towards the front just enough to slip the bearing through the shaft hole into position with mucho grease and then back the layshaft back up. 3- Put the whole car project away for a couple of years and come back refreshed. :( My sanity rests on your answers. Thanks gentlemen, Mark From Awgertoo at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 11:43:52 EST Subject: Conclave 2003 Regalia Update A limited number of Conclave 2003 patches at $6.00 and lapel pins at $3.00 remain available, all orders to be prepaid (postage is included) and sent along with a self-addressed envelope to Howard Gilson, 5602 Alta Vista Court, Bethesda, MD. 20817. Best to all--Michael Oritt From Ron Fine From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 09:53:02 -0800 Subject: Re: Steerling Wheel fit Blue One Hundred wrote: >Ron - > >Yes, the steering wheel column will fit but you will >have to replace the trafficator with an adjustable >type, if your BN7 has a non-adjustable column. This >can be an expensive item! I think you may be able to >use the old non-adjustable trafficator... but if you >do you will not be able to adjust the steering. > >Why do you want to do this anyway? In general the >non-adjustable column actually gives you a little more >arm space/room than the adjustable... although >servicing the trafficator on a non-adjustable column >is more complicated. > >cheers, > >Alan > >'53 BN1 '64 BJ8 > >--- Ron Fine wrote: > > >>Will an adjustable steering wheel taken from a '68 >>BJ8 fit a 61 BN7?? >> And if so, would I need to replace any of the >>center parts (horn or >>turn signal indicator)?? >>Ron >>61BN7 From "m l" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 10:02:45 -0800 Subject: checklist for buying a healey (or any classic car) does anyone remember this checklist or know where i can find it? many thanks, mark venice, ca '60 bn7 _________________________________________________________________ MSN Messenger with backgrounds, emoticons and more. http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/cdp_customize From "Freese, Ken" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 11:25:18 -0800 Subject: FW: Healey SR2 in rally -----Original Message----- From: classicadelaide@silverstoneevents.com [mailto:classicadelaide@silverstoneevents.com] Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 9:34 PM To: classicadelaide@silverstoneevents.com Subject: Classic Adelaide News - The countdown begins ... CLASSIC ADELAIDE NEWS Tuesday 11 November: With just one week to go to the 2003 Classic Adelaide Rally, the event has already been confirmed as the largest and best attended in the event's seven-year history. The seven-day countdown has been marked today by the arrival in Adelaide of nearly $20 million worth of spectacular sporting cars from the United Kingdom, Belgium, Germany and Italy to take part in this year's five-day, 1150km event from 19-23 November. Full Story >> http://www.classicadelaide.com.au/ca/index.asp?Section=/ca/news/news2003Nov4 .asp Classic Adelaide Diary & Watchers' Guide ---------------------------------------- While the most exciting way to enjoy Classic Adelaide is to travel to one of the many special stage spectator points along the route, you can also see all of the great cars and their drivers up close and personal right in the heart of Adelaide. Better still, the activities are either free, or will cost you only a simple gold coin donation to Classic Adelaide's official charity, the Women's & Children's Hospital. Read about the activities >> http://www.classicadelaide.com.au/ca/index.asp?Section=/ca/news/news2003Nov2 .asp A few of the other recent changes made to the website: ------------------------------------------------------ Course Guide including stage maps >> http://www.classicadelaide.com.au/ca/index.asp?Section=/ca/event/c_guide.asp 2004 Spectator Guide >> http://www.classicadelaide.com.au/ca/index.asp?Section=/ca/event/s_guide.asp Merchandise >> http://www.sandynelson.com.au Classic Adelaide ... one of the world's great rallies. ------------------------------------------------------ If you do not wish to receive these e-mail messages, send a message to unsub-ca@justimagine.com.au From "Frakes, Jim" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 14:50:16 -0500 Subject: Test Jim Frakes From dicksonr at uwm.edu From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 18:38:45 -0600 Subject: Q: What kind of seam sealer do you use? of seam sealer to use on underbody and chassis seams, ie floorboards, trunk floor. In the past I have used Fast and Firm, a 3M product I think as well as 3M Brushable Sealer. However, due to current financial constraints I'm unable to and unwilling to dole out $13 a tube and $17 a can. Especially when I need about 8 tubes, (that is a lot of micro-brew beer). Thus, the current dilemma. I just used a DAP Latex '230' in a tube but a day after I applied it the metal underneath showed a slight rusty tint. I figured that this was due to the water in it. Forget latex based sealer. Then I looked at tube silicones for around the kitchen and bath. They look like they would be great except that I cannot find one that is paintable. Next I talked to a body guy who said that he uses a urethane product in a tube. I do not know where to get this though. Does anybody have any ideas or answers as to an economical seam sealer and where I can find one? Also, what type of sealer or underbody coating do you use inside the rear fender wells to even things out and blend? I don't want to use any tar crap and it must be paintable. It must be compatiable with a PPG urethane enamel. Thanks in advance for your responses. Randy Dickson Healey Archaeologist 63 BJ-7 Sturgeon Bay, WI. From "John Snyder" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 16:41:13 -0800 Subject: Re: "Tech Session" time again John Snyder BT7 MK1, BT7 MK2, two BN7 MK2s ----- Original Message ----- From: "Earl Kagna" To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" ; "Healey List" Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 8:02 AM Subject: Re: "Tech Session" time again > Mark: What a bummer! Sometimes this hobby can be frustrating as hell. My advice is to tear it down again and make sure everything is right before it goes back in the car - much easier to do now than to have to rebuild again later with the possibilty of major damage in the gearbox, (and possibly even the overdrive) from any loose bits floating around in there. If you are not already doing so, it helps to use a dummy layshaft, mine's made from a large suitably sized bolt - ie: exact same diameter - cut to precisely the right length in order be able to slip the laygear and its contents into position, and then push the real layshaft through and into it's final position. Fun, ain't it! Earl Kagna From carlalony2 at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 20:37:24 EST Subject: (no subject) From "Patton Dickson" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 20:03:02 -0600 Subject: Removing the Grease from the underside While I was under the car, I was looking at how greasy everything is (also apparent on my clothes). I know that the grease acts as "natures way" to fight rust, but I want to clean it up. Any suggestions on what to use? Any particular things not to use? I have a pressure washer if that will help, but I don't want to make things worse. Patton PS - I am scrapping the old website that has the MGB and Corvair info on it and building an Austin-Healey only site. I put the first drafts of the pages up today along with my Sprite Spec pages. Check out Austin-Healeys.com (note the plural) and let me know what you think. ------------------------------------- Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX 1957 Austin-Healey BN4 Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/ For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert From John Loftus From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 18:53:19 -0800 Subject: Re: Q: What kind of seam sealer do you use? I came across this place when looking for sound deadening panels. I see they have a urethane seam sealer (under bodyshop chemicals) but no price is listed. http://www.autobodysupplies.com Cheers, John From Ron Fine From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 19:50:38 -0800 Subject: Healey Blue carlalony2@aol.com wrote: >I have read the AH concourse standards regarding the color (Healey Blue) It >states that the correct shade should have a greenish Hew to it. I purchased the >base/clear PPG Global system using the correct paint code. This has to be the >strangest paint ever. In 10:00 am Florida sunlight you can walk from the >front of the car to the rear and the color will change from a Grayish metallic >blue to a metallic blue with a pronounced greenish hew to it depending on how the >light hit's it. Stand in another spot, and it looks blue with no noticeable >green hew. Am I seeing it wrong? Am I color Blind? Was the paint was mixed >wrong? Only the chassis is painted at this point. I can either forge ahead with >this color. Paint the outside a different correct shade of healey blue, if in >fact this shade is incorrect, or repaint the chassis. Any suggestions, >Comments, words of wisdom. Thanks in advance for your advise From "Ken and Sue Bowering" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 23:27:25 -0500 Subject: John Slade Some of you will undoubtedly remember John Slade (Manotick, Ontario, Canada) as a regular on this list and as one who provided valuable assistance to Healey owners from time to time. John was a retired naval officer (Rear Admiral, RCN) who had a long passion for sports cars and rally driving (I'd say BMWs and Healeys were his first fancy, with naval ships being a close second). I first met John in the early-1960s when we were both young naval officers and he was (allegedly) one of the better rally navigators in Canada (knowing John, he probably was; he was always very competitive). He was an electrical engineering graduate from the Royal Military College of Canada (RMC) in the very early 1960s (maybe even late-50s) and he received his Masters degree in Operations Research from the University of Toronto in the late-60s/early-70s. John served in the Canadian Navy as an "Operations Officer". He was Executive Officer of HMCS Terra Nova and Commanding Officer of HMC Ships Gatineau (1973-1975) and Athabaskan (1977-1979). He also served in various positions at National Defence Headquarters (Ottawa, Ontario). John retired from the Navy in the early/mid-1980s as a Rear Admiral. In my opinion, he was one of the sharpest "operational" minds ever to have served in our Navy. In retirement, John loved his cars and he looked forward to the day when he'd finish restoring the cars that he had kept in storage for so many years (and transported from place to place); amongst them were a BMW and his Healey. Talk about an SU carburettor; John knew it inside out. I know. John passed away on Thursday, 13 November 2003. Much too early. A Memorial Service in his honour will be held later this week at the RMC Chapel, Kingston, Ontario. Sincerely, Ken Bowering Ottawa Tim, David - anything you can add would be appreciated. From Pat & Gary Rice From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 22:20:59 -0800 Subject: RE; no subject, Healey Blue From WilKo at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 01:31:29 EST Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20RE;=A0=20no=20subject,=20Healey=20Blue?= I've seen plenty. I'm not colorblind. (I'm a graphic designer, I know color) Rick San Diego In a message dated 11/17/03 10:26:56 PM, patgaryrice@earthlink.net writes: > I have never seen a Greenish hue to the Healey Blue. This has to be a > perverted mistake or the opinion of color blind people. From Blue One Hundred From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 00:40:50 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: RE;  no subject, Healey Blue Yes, the healey blue should not be too blue (like a mercedes blue). Then again, I think there are probably about 5 different shades of healey blue that came out of the factory over the years... Cheers, Alan --- WilKo@aol.com wrote: > The lacquer turns a very slightly yellowish color > making for a very faint > tint of green. Mostly on older paint. > > I've seen plenty. I'm not colorblind. (I'm a graphic > designer, I know color) > > Rick > San Diego > > In a message dated 11/17/03 10:26:56 PM, > patgaryrice@earthlink.net writes: > > > > I have never seen a Greenish hue to the Healey > Blue. This has to be a > > perverted mistake or the opinion of color blind > people. From Simonlachlan at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 06:04:01 EST Subject: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. Now, as we all know the world of second hand ca parts is not as full of thieves as some people make out, but a fool and his money etcetc..... So, bearing in mind that I will be confronted by a diff that is complete, but seperated from its housing:- How can I be sure that its 3:54? Must count the teeth, right? How many teeth etcetc? (am I looking for 11 & 39 teeth?) Are there any numbers stamped on either, or both, crown or pinion? Is there anything else to check for? For example, can I check for wear at all by looking at the teeth? (I don't mind having the bearings replaced and the whole thing set up by a professional, but there's not much point if its all is worn out??) Any other points to look out for? Thanks, Simon. From Awgertoo at aol.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 06:47:39 EST Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. > after about a year, finally located a 3:54 diff worth going to see and, > hopefully buy If you're not in a rush why don't you contact Mike Lempert (mlempert@bellsouth.net) who put together the first 3.5 differential project and is now doing another one. Best--Michael Oritt From Blue One Hundred From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 03:56:37 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. A couple key things to look for: 1) Galling. This can be a very fine thing to notice, but if the teeth have a worn area in the middle of the face (it can be very slight, but if it has it it will be on all the teeth in the same place). You don't want galled gears because, well, they will whine on the freeway and will progressibely get worse no matter what you do. 2) smoothing. In general a ring and pinion with a very glassy smooth finish on the teeth face are worn. The spider gears are ok if they have a glass finish on them, but on the ring and pinion it can be a sign of potential trouble. Hope that helps Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote: > Hello, > I have, after about a year, finally located a 3:54 > diff worth going to see > and, hopefully buy. > > Now, as we all know the world of second hand ca > parts is not as full of > thieves as some people make out, but a fool and his > money etcetc..... > > So, bearing in mind that I will be confronted by a > diff that is complete, but > seperated from its housing:- > How can I be sure that its 3:54? Must count the > teeth, right? How many teeth > etcetc? (am I looking for 11 & 39 teeth?) > > Are there any numbers stamped on either, or both, > crown or pinion? > > Is there anything else to check for? For example, > can I check for wear at all > by looking at the teeth? (I don't mind having the > bearings replaced and the > whole thing set up by a professional, but there's > not much point if its all is > worn out??) > > Any other points to look out for? > > Thanks, > Simon. From Blue One Hundred From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 03:58:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: Mike Lempert please reply I emailed you a while back because I wanted to put a deposit down for one of your 3.54 ring and pinion sets. I haven't heard from you in a while can you please email me back (I may have trashed your email by mistake)? How much should I write a check for and who and where should I send it to? Thanks, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 07:07:13 -0600 Subject: Re: "Tech Session" time again/ Final Yes , it can be done. It only took 1 hour to take the side cover back off, gentley tap the layshaft out just to the point where I could slip the FRIGGEN needle bearing back in, while at the same time holding the laygear steady with my other hand. The other bearings were still packed in grease so they stayed in place. Tool Tip: Harbor Freight sells a Brass Drift for $6 that can be easily cut and used as a dummy layshaft. NEXT :) Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark and kathy LaPierre To: Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2003 11:34 PM Subject: "Tech Session" time again > Trany techs, > I am in the process of buttoning up my sideshift Bt7 trany for the > last time after a few dry runs and came across a real pisser (spell check) . > As I took of the bell housing off to install the gasket I noticed an > interesting protrusion coming out of the hole in the layshaft, almost like > it was sticking its tongue out at me. A FRIGGIN NEEDLE BEARING!!!!!!!!!!! > > So what are my options here. > > 1- Can I run the layshaft with one less needle bearing? > > 2-The side cover has already been sealed and bolted shut and I really > don't want to remove it unless absolutely necessary. The O/D adaptor plate > is off. Would it be possible to drive the layshaft out towards the front > just enough to slip the bearing through the shaft hole into position with > mucho grease and then back the layshaft back up. > > 3- Put the whole car project away for a couple of years and come back > refreshed. :( > > My sanity rests on your answers. > > Thanks gentlemen, Mark From Alan Bromfield From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 11:55:10 -0000 Subject: BN4 front suspension The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal attention of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract. ntl Group Limited From "Michael Salter" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 07:32:49 -0500 Subject: RE: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com BTW if your prospective set does not work out I have 3.54 gear set that are out of a car that I had an opportunity to drive before removing the diff. -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simonlachlan@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 6:04 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. Hello, I have, after about a year, finally located a 3:54 diff worth going to see and, hopefully buy. Now, as we all know the world of second hand ca parts is not as full of thieves as some people make out, but a fool and his money etcetc..... So, bearing in mind that I will be confronted by a diff that is complete, but seperated from its housing:- How can I be sure that its 3:54? Must count the teeth, right? How many teeth etcetc? (am I looking for 11 & 39 teeth?) Are there any numbers stamped on either, or both, crown or pinion? Is there anything else to check for? For example, can I check for wear at all by looking at the teeth? (I don't mind having the bearings replaced and the whole thing set up by a professional, but there's not much point if its all is worn out??) Any other points to look out for? Thanks, Simon. From "tom felts" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 07:53:56 -0500 Subject: Re: RE;  no subject, Healey Blue > [Original Message] > From: > To: > Date: 11/18/03 1:32:00 AM > Subject: Re: RE; no subject, Healey Blue > > The lacquer turns a very slightly yellowish color making for a very faint > tint of green. Mostly on older paint. > > I've seen plenty. I'm not colorblind. (I'm a graphic designer, I know color) > > Rick > San Diego > > In a message dated 11/17/03 10:26:56 PM, patgaryrice@earthlink.net writes: > > > > I have never seen a Greenish hue to the Healey Blue. This has to be a > > perverted mistake or the opinion of color blind people. > My BJ8 is Healey Blue From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 09:53:44 -0500 Subject: BN4 front suspension Alain Giguere BN7 Bits Healeyphiles. A bit of history. I am rescuing a California BN4, imported to the UK. The front LH side of the car had a big whack at sometime resulting in a chassis leg that was bent enough to need replacing. The repairs have been carried out and a very nice job done. The RH side appeared unmolested and no problems were apparent during the strip down. I am now at the stage of offering up the bottom 'A' arm assemblies to the chassis mounts. With the bare kingpin, trunnion and 'A' arms fully assembled on the bench, I have free rotation of the kingpin in the bottom trunnion nuts. When I offer up the inner end of the 'A' arms to the LH chassis mounts the legs are over half an inch wider than the mounts. I assumed I must have bent arms but on checking, all four have identical offsets. If I 'spring' the arms into the chassis mounts and tighten the spindles to compress the bushes, there is enough bending tension placed on the trunnion nuts to virtually lock the kingpin. Does anyone have a set of dimensions from a known datum, so that I can check out whether the mountings are in the right place. Too far forward or to the rear of one or both mounts will obviously also affect the caster. For your amusement - the RH side is worse! Gosh it did make me laugh! A straight spindle doesn't make it through the suspension turret without hitting the inside of the back surface. Alan Bromfield - New Forest Austin Healey Centre UK -- From "Brashear, Jack, N" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 09:24:39 -0600 Subject: Inquiring Minds Wanna Know Jack From "Bob Spidell" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 07:24:57 -0800 Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. bs ******************************************** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M ******************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: ; Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 4:32 AM Subject: RE: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. > Hi Simon, > All the numbers and stuff aside the question of noise is, in my > experience, a rather tricky one. > I have a 3.66, spiral bevel gear set for my 100S, I have checked the > appearance of the teeth as best I know how and other than a slight > grayness on one side of the crownwheel teeth rather than the shine of > the other side they look perfect, BUT despite having been set up twice, > once by myself and once by a specialist the differential howls like a > banshee on overrun. > The point of this is that I'm no longer convinced that a visual > inspection is adequate to determine if a gear set will operate quietly, > so take care. > > Michael Salter > www.precisionsportscar.com > > BTW if your prospective set does not work out I have 3.54 gear set that > are out of a car that I had an opportunity to drive before removing the > diff. From Earl Kagna From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 09:03:32 -0800 Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. You've found one - excellent! Having done this a few times: The gear ratios, expressed as the number of teeth, is stamped on the little 'shelf' just off the centreline on the top of the diff pod. In the case of the 3:54 set, 11 / 39, with the digits usually turned on their sides for some reason. (the 3:91 sets will be stamped 11 / 43, and the earlier 4:1 sets 10 / 41). On the remote chance that someone has changed out the gearset in the past, I always 'count the teeth' to be sure - 11 teeth on the pinion, 39 on the crownwheel - obviously easy for you to do with the diff 'pod' removed from the axle housing. As Mike Salter indicated in his post, it is a bit of a gamble as to whether any given diff will be noisy or not - I have been surprised a couple of times - both ways. About all you can do is to inspect the gear teeth for obvious wear / damage (maybe take someone with you that has experience, if at all possible). It would help to know the mileage on the donor vehicle, but that may not be available (reliably!). These diffs are very robust and are capable of very high mileage with no trouble (even in the heavier, but lower powered saloons), provided the maintenance was done - ie: diligent oil changes. Short of having an expert look the unit over on the bench - gear mesh pattern check, pinion shims, bearings, etc, there's not really much more you can do 'in the field'. Let us know how it turns out. Earl Kagna Victoria, B. C. Canada '62 BT7 tri-carb '67 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 3:04 AM Subject: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. Hello, I have, after about a year, finally located a 3:54 diff worth going to see and, hopefully buy. Now, as we all know the world of second hand ca parts is not as full of thieves as some people make out, but a fool and his money etcetc..... So, bearing in mind that I will be confronted by a diff that is complete, but seperated from its housing:- How can I be sure that its 3:54? Must count the teeth, right? How many teeth etcetc? (am I looking for 11 & 39 teeth?) Are there any numbers stamped on either, or both, crown or pinion? Is there anything else to check for? For example, can I check for wear at all by looking at the teeth? (I don't mind having the bearings replaced and the whole thing set up by a professional, but there's not much point if its all is worn out??) Any other points to look out for? Thanks, Simon. ! From sbyers From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 09:40:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. In general, I don't know if one is noisier than another. But my original-issue Lempert 3.54 differential does whine more than my BMC 3.909 did. Not objectionably so, just noticeable. It has about 25,000 miles on it now, and I still think it is the best modification I ever did to my BJ8. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 (Lempert-equipped) BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC >On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 07:24:57 -0800 Bob Spidell wrote. >Does a "taller" (e.g. 3.54:1?) diff tend to whine more than a lower >set (e.g. 3.91:1)? > > >bs >******************************************** >Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net >'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M >******************************************** From tld6008 at mchsi.com From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 18:19:35 +0000 Subject: Battery Trays Thanks, Tim Davis BN7 From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 14:04:56 -0600 Subject: Re: BN4 front suspension - 13" --- From the front of the "front A-arm bracket" to the rear of the "rear A-arm bracket " - 9" --- Inside edge of the "front A-arm bracket" to the inside edge of the "rear A-arm bracket" - 9 1/4"- The tip of the "shroud valance frame bracket" to the front of the "front A-arm bracket" - 4" --- Rear of the "rear A-arm bracket" to the front of the engine mount Gets a bit wordy but I think its comprehendible. Hope this helps, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: Alan Bromfield To: Cc: Phil Gardner Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 5:55 AM Subject: BN4 front suspension > Healeyphiles. > A bit of history. I am rescuing a California BN4, imported to the UK. The > front LH side of the car had a big whack at sometime resulting in a chassis > leg that was bent enough to need replacing. The repairs have been carried > out and a very nice job done. The RH side appeared unmolested and no > problems were apparent during the strip down. > > I am now at the stage of offering up the bottom 'A' arm assemblies to the > chassis mounts. > > With the bare kingpin, trunnion and 'A' arms fully assembled on the bench, I > have free rotation of the kingpin in the bottom trunnion nuts. When I offer > up the inner end of the 'A' arms to the LH chassis mounts the legs are over > half an inch wider than the mounts. I assumed I must have bent arms but on > checking, all four have identical offsets. If I 'spring' the arms into the > chassis mounts and tighten the spindles to compress the bushes, there is > enough bending tension placed on the trunnion nuts to virtually lock the > kingpin. > > Does anyone have a set of dimensions from a known datum, so that I can check > out whether the mountings are in the right place. Too far forward or to the > rear of one or both mounts will obviously also affect the caster. > > For your amusement - the RH side is worse! Gosh it did make me laugh! A > straight spindle doesn't make it through the suspension turret without > hitting the inside of the back surface. > > Some pics can be found at > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.bromfield/ > > I'm not a website developer as you will see.......... > > Alan Bromfield - New Forest Austin Healey Centre > UK > Sorry about the rubbish below this line - I'm in work at the moment. > ------------------------------------------- > > > The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal attention > of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended > addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is > unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any > representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract. > > ntl Group Limited From "tom felts" From: "John Snyder" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; "John Miller" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 15:37:22 -0500 Subject: Re: Spare Diff Regards Tom > [Original Message] > From: Earl Kagna > To: ; Healey List > Date: 11/18/03 12:06:05 PM > Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. > > Simon: > > You've found one - excellent! > > Having done this a few times: The gear ratios, expressed as the number of > teeth, is stamped on the little 'shelf' just off the centreline on the top > of the diff pod. In the case of the 3:54 set, 11 / 39, with the digits > usually turned on their sides for some reason. (the 3:91 sets will be > stamped 11 / 43, and the earlier 4:1 sets 10 / 41). > > On the remote chance that someone has changed out the gearset in the past, I > always 'count the teeth' to be sure - 11 teeth on the pinion, 39 on the > crownwheel - obviously easy for you to do with the diff 'pod' removed from > the axle housing. > > As Mike Salter indicated in his post, it is a bit of a gamble as to whether > any given diff will be noisy or not - I have been surprised a couple of > times - both ways. About all you can do is to inspect the gear teeth for > obvious wear / damage (maybe take someone with you that has experience, if > at all possible). It would help to know the mileage on the donor vehicle, > but that may not be available (reliably!). These diffs are very robust and > are capable of very high mileage with no trouble (even in the heavier, but > lower powered saloons), provided the maintenance was done - ie: diligent oil > changes. > > Short of having an expert look the unit over on the bench - gear mesh > pattern check, pinion shims, bearings, etc, there's not really much more you > can do 'in the field'. > > Let us know how it turns out. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B. C. Canada > '62 BT7 tri-carb > '67 BJ8 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 3:04 AM > Subject: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. > > > Hello, > I have, after about a year, finally located a 3:54 diff worth going to see > and, hopefully buy. > > Now, as we all know the world of second hand ca parts is not as full of > thieves as some people make out, but a fool and his money etcetc..... > > So, bearing in mind that I will be confronted by a diff that is complete, > but > seperated from its housing:- > How can I be sure that its 3:54? Must count the teeth, right? How many teeth > etcetc? (am I looking for 11 & 39 teeth?) > > Are there any numbers stamped on either, or both, crown or pinion? > > Is there anything else to check for? For example, can I check for wear at > all > by looking at the teeth? (I don't mind having the bearings replaced and the > whole thing set up by a professional, but there's not much point if its all From "Larry Mercier" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 15:37:03 -0500 Subject: Battery Trays > Can someone enlighten me on how the battery trays attached to the two support > rails on a BN7? The trays I have both have 2 holes about the size of a dime and > I don't see the connection for securing them to the frame. > > Thanks, > > Tim Davis BN7 From "Alex" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 16:19:59 -0500 Subject: RE: Removing the Grease from the underside == Alex in Maine 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie" Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8 Amateur Radio AI2Q http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm .-.-. -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Patton Dickson Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 9:03 PM To: Healey List Subject: Removing the Grease from the underside I had the car up on the ramps Saturday ....................... From Dave & Marlene From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 14:27:38 -0700 Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. Dave Russell Earl Kagna wrote: > Simon: > Snip These diffs are very robust and > are capable of very high mileage with no trouble (even in the heavier, but > lower powered saloons), provided the maintenance was done - ie: diligent oil > changes. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B. C. Canada > '62 BT7 tri-carb > '67 BJ8 From Dave & Marlene From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 14:43:38 -0700 Subject: Re: Battery Trays "The batteries sat in black-painted metal trays slightly larger than the batteries. The hold-down rods, bent at the bottom to form Js, passed outside the battery trays at the front & rear to hook under notches in the chassis brackets. The rods passed through the battery hold-downs, & had threaded tops that were fastened with 1/4 inch zinc-plated wing nuts & single zinc plated plain flat washers" It sounds like you may have the trays for an earlier car which used threaded rods through the dime size holes into nuts welded on the under brackets. Dave Russell BN2 tld6008@mchsi.com wrote: > Can someone enlighten me on how the battery trays attached to the two support > rails on a BN7? The trays I have both have 2 holes about the size of a dime and > I don't see the connection for securing them to the frame. > > Thanks, > > Tim Davis BN7 From "Michael Salter" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 16:49:12 -0500 Subject: RE: Battery Trays Simple and effective, but I have some difficulty understanding why the battery tray had a 3/4" high rim and 2 huge holes in the bottom !! Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tld6008@mchsi.com Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 1:20 PM To: Healey list Subject: Battery Trays Can someone enlighten me on how the battery trays attached to the two support rails on a BN7? The trays I have both have 2 holes about the size of a dime and I don't see the connection for securing them to the frame. Thanks, Tim Davis BN7 From "Quinn, Patrick" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 09:53:56 +1100 Subject: RE: Healey SR2 in rally I think it's great to see Tom Barr Smith using the car in all sorts of competition events. It's an absolutely gorgeous car and full credit to the Healey Factory in Melbourne. However don't forget it's not the real SR2 that ran at Le Mans in 1968 and 1969. The car that ran in slightly different coupe body form in '68 amd '69 was lengthened and converted into a roadster for the 1970 event and called the XR37. The regulations at the time did not allow the same car to be used for three years running, hence the change. The car in SR2 guise ran with a Coventry Climax V8 engine and a Repco V8 when it was called XR37. When the DHMC initially built the SR2 they had two floorpans built, one to use and one for a spare. Tom Barr Smith purchased the spare floorpan plus some panels a few years back but corrosion was so bad a new one was made. That formed the basis of the reconstructed SR2. The last time I saw the car it was powered by a Rover V8. The car being used at the Classic Adelaide never ran at Le Mans. The original SR2/XR37 car is alive and well here in Sydney and is owned by Robert Harrison who purchased it from the DHMC in 1971. Regards Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: Freese, Ken [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com] Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 6:25 AM To: 'healeys' Subject: FW: Healey SR2 in rally I see that the SR2 is entered to run the Classic Adelaide Rally next weekend. Good to see it out and about. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: classicadelaide@silverstoneevents.com [mailto:classicadelaide@silverstoneevents.com] Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 9:34 PM To: classicadelaide@silverstoneevents.com Subject: Classic Adelaide News - The countdown begins ... CLASSIC ADELAIDE NEWS Tuesday 11 November: With just one week to go to the 2003 Classic Adelaide Rally, the event has already been confirmed as the largest and best attended in the event's seven-year history. The seven-day countdown has been marked today by the arrival in Adelaide of nearly $20 million worth of spectacular sporting cars from the United Kingdom, Belgium, Germany and Italy to take part in this year's five-day, 1150km event from 19-23 November. Full Story >> http://www.classicadelaide.com.au/ca/index.asp?Section=/ca/news/news2003Nov4 .asp Classic Adelaide Diary & Watchers' Guide ---------------------------------------- While the most exciting way to enjoy Classic Adelaide is to travel to one of the many special stage spectator points along the route, you can also see all of the great cars and their drivers up close and personal right in the heart of Adelaide. Better still, the activities are either free, or will cost you only a simple gold coin donation to Classic Adelaide's official charity, the Women's & Children's Hospital. Read about the activities >> http://www.classicadelaide.com.au/ca/index.asp?Section=/ca/news/news2003Nov2 .asp A few of the other recent changes made to the website: ------------------------------------------------------ Course Guide including stage maps >> http://www.classicadelaide.com.au/ca/index.asp?Section=/ca/event/c_guide.asp 2004 Spectator Guide >> http://www.classicadelaide.com.au/ca/index.asp?Section=/ca/event/s_guide.asp Merchandise >> http://www.sandynelson.com.au Classic Adelaide ... one of the world's great rallies. ------------------------------------------------------ If you do not wish to receive these e-mail messages, send a message to unsub-ca@justimagine.com.au ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From "BritCarWeek" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 18:15:34 -0500 Subject: A British Car Tale Once upon a time, there were two young men who were very much alike. One was named Ernie and the other named Hugo. Even though they were a lot alike, they had never met one another. They lived in separate towns in different parts of the Country, but they did share a lot of common ground. Like many people, they both liked tinkering in the garage, spending quality time outdoors on a beautiful day, sightseeing while traveling, and enjoyed doing exciting things with their friends and loved one's. But unfortunately, there was something missing in each of their lives. You see, they had slipped into the deep, dark doldrums of life, and had become boring. As a result, they were spending a lot of their spare time on the living room sofa flipping television channels and watching others having a good time. This seemed to be their way of coping. One afternoon while Ernie was driving home from work in his daily run-of-the-mill family car, he began to think about what he might do once he got home. He thought and he thought, but he became saddened when he realized that he couldn't think of anything. So he decided that he'd settle for eating an early supper, then watch television until he couldn't stand it any longer, and then go to bed. The next day he'd do the same all over again. While keeping his focus on the road ahead he spotted an eye-catching little sports car heading toward him. He could see the driver of the car was wearing a baseball style cap turned backwards, and he appeared as though he was having a great time driving his fun little car. He took a closer look at the car, and realized it was a little British car that he hadn't seen on the road in many years. "Wow" he thought to himself, "That guy looks as though he's having the time of his life. What a wonderful way to spend a beautiful afternoon unwinding after a hard days work. I could sure have a lot of fun with a car like that!!" Ernie waved to the driver of the car, then gave him the thumbs-up sign, and the driver waved back with a big smile. Ernie was right, the expression on the guys' face was unmistakable. He was surely having the best time of his life. As a matter of fact, it was something he did on a regular basis because he knew the best time of his life was now. Driving his British car every day was essential. During that entire week, Ernie spotted more and more little British cars driving around his town that he hadn't seen in many years. Some of the cars he had almost totally forgotten about. He later discovered why they seemed to be suddenly making a comeback in his town. The entire week was a special honorary week for all classic British cars. It was called British Car Week. He learned that British Car Week is an annual awareness week intended to encourage British car owners to drive their cars regularly and provide them with increased exposure for the people in their community to appreciate. It's a week for enjoying them, but also for remembering the pleasures they have brought to the many lives over the years, especially those who have been fortunate to become familiar with them during the past and present. By now Ernie was getting very curious, and decided that he'd like to become more familiar with them. He wanted to know all sorts of things like, "Where can I buy one? How can I find a good one? Are parts available? If so, then where do I buy them? Are there local clubs that provide helpful support? Do they still publish books and magazines about these cars? Where do I begin!?" Fortunately Ernie was able to talk to some of the car owners during the week, and within a few months he had joined several British car clubs. As a result, he met some great new friends, located books to read, and subscribed to magazines that enabled him to learn as much about British cars as he needed. He located a car that he found for sale in a club magazine, and is now the proud owner. He also bought another car that needed to be restored, and is now buying parts for it. There was no longer any doubt what he would find to do after work, and in many cases he didn't return home immediately after work. Instead, he was taking the long way home because he was driving his enjoyable little British car........ Be sure to mark your calendars and tell all of your friends and British car club officials about the 8th Annual British Car Week! May 22 - 30, 2004 Oh, I almost forgot! You're probably wondering whatever happened to Hugo? Well, he's at home sitting on the sofa watching television. Unfortunately his British car clubs didn't celebrate British Car Week. See you on the road..... Scott Helms - Curator BritCarWeek@arczip.com http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html From "Lee and Marti" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 16:15:17 -0800 Subject: Healeys in Advertising From Earl Kagna From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 17:18:22 -0800 Subject: Re: Spare Diff Yep, the 11 / 43 is the most common one, the 3:91 ratio - used on all overdrive equipped 3000's to the end of production, the 3:54 being used on the 3000 non-overdrive 3000's, which is one reason that they are rare, not very many non-o/d cars built for the North American market. There are probably lots of them around, ( I have at least 2), and seeing as how they are so strong, there probably won't be much demand for them. One possibilty would be someone who wanted to install a Lempert gearset without dismantling their car's original diff pod. As to value - good question - anybody else have an idea? Earl Kagna Victoria, B. C. Canada '62 BT7 tri-carb '67 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom felts" To: "Earl Kagna" ; ; "Healey List" Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 12:37 PM Subject: Re: Spare Diff I have a spare diff that seems to have the 11/43 stamped on it. Was this the most common one installed? Any idea what the value of it is--assuming it is in good condition? I'm thinking of selling it. Regards Tom > [Original Message] > From: Earl Kagna > To: ; Healey List > Date: 11/18/03 12:06:05 PM > Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. > > Simon: > > You've found one - excellent! > > Having done this a few times: The gear ratios, expressed as the number of > teeth, is stamped on the little 'shelf' just off the centreline on the top > of the diff pod. In the case of the 3:54 set, 11 / 39, with the digits > usually turned on their sides for some reason. (the 3:91 sets will be > stamped 11 / 43, and the earlier 4:1 sets 10 / 41). > > On the remote chance that someone has changed out the gearset in the past, I > always 'count the teeth' to be sure - 11 teeth on the pinion, 39 on the > crownwheel - obviously easy for you to do with the diff 'pod' removed from > the axle housing. > > As Mike Salter indicated in his post, it is a bit of a gamble as to whether > any given diff will be noisy or not - I have been surprised a couple of > times - both ways. About all you can do is to inspect the gear teeth for > obvious wear / damage (maybe take someone with you that has experience, if > at all possible). It would help to know the mileage on the donor vehicle, > but that may not be available (reliably!). These diffs are very robust and > are capable of very high mileage with no trouble (even in the heavier, but > lower powered saloons), provided the maintenance was done - ie: diligent oil > changes. > > Short of having an expert look the unit over on the bench - gear mesh > pattern check, pinion shims, bearings, etc, there's not really much more you > can do 'in the field'. > > Let us know how it turns out. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B. C. Canada > '62 BT7 tri-carb > '67 BJ8 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 3:04 AM > Subject: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. > > > Hello, > I have, after about a year, finally located a 3:54 diff worth going to see > and, hopefully buy. > > Now, as we all know the world of second hand ca parts is not as full of > thieves as some people make out, but a fool and his money etcetc..... > > So, bearing in mind that I will be confronted by a diff that is complete, > but > seperated from its housing:- > How can I be sure that its 3:54? Must count the teeth, right? How many teeth > etcetc? (am I looking for 11 & 39 teeth?) > > Are there any numbers stamped on either, or both, crown or pinion? > > Is there anything else to check for? For example, can I check for wear at > all > by looking at the teeth? (I don't mind having the bearings replaced and the > whole thing set up by a professional, but there's not much point if its all From carlalony2 at aol.com From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 20:40:41 EST Subject: Healey Blue From "John Snyder" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 18:09:04 -0800 Subject: test From Blue One Hundred From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 19:33:36 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Spare Diff Well, the value is what the buyer is willing to pay! I bought a good complete 3.91 pumpkin about 5 years ago for $75 after not seeing anything below $350 over several months (I had galled gears in my BJ8 - very whiney, but worked). You could say a good price for a pumpkin known to be in good working order should be anything less than purchasing and installing a new ring and pinion. Say, less than $600? Seems steep to me nontheless. If the condition is complete, visually good but unknown running condition, probably less than $200 is acceptable. All I have to say is SHOP AROUND! Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Earl Kagna wrote: > Tom: > > Yep, the 11 / 43 is the most common one, the 3:91 > ratio - used on all > overdrive equipped 3000's to the end of production, > the 3:54 being used on > the 3000 non-overdrive 3000's, which is one reason > that they are rare, not > very many non-o/d cars built for the North American > market. > > There are probably lots of them around, ( I have at > least 2), and seeing as > how they are so strong, there probably won't be much > demand for them. One > possibilty would be someone who wanted to install a > Lempert gearset without > dismantling their car's original diff pod. > > As to value - good question - anybody else have an > idea? > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B. C. Canada > '62 BT7 tri-carb > '67 BJ8 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "tom felts" > To: "Earl Kagna" ; > ; "Healey List" > > Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 12:37 PM > Subject: Re: Spare Diff > > > I have a spare diff that seems to have the 11/43 > stamped on it. Was this > the most common one installed? Any idea what the > value of it is--assuming > it is in good condition? I'm thinking of selling > it. > > Regards > Tom > > > > [Original Message] > > From: Earl Kagna > > To: ; Healey List > > > Date: 11/18/03 12:06:05 PM > > Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and > potential problems. > > > > Simon: > > > > You've found one - excellent! > > > > Having done this a few times: The gear ratios, > expressed as the number of > > teeth, is stamped on the little 'shelf' just off > the centreline on the top > > of the diff pod. In the case of the 3:54 set, 11 > / 39, with the digits > > usually turned on their sides for some reason. > (the 3:91 sets will be > > stamped 11 / 43, and the earlier 4:1 sets 10 / > 41). > > > > On the remote chance that someone has changed out > the gearset in the > past, I > > always 'count the teeth' to be sure - 11 teeth on > the pinion, 39 on the > > crownwheel - obviously easy for you to do with the > diff 'pod' removed from > > the axle housing. > > > > As Mike Salter indicated in his post, it is a bit > of a gamble as to > whether > > any given diff will be noisy or not - I have been > surprised a couple of > > times - both ways. About all you can do is to > inspect the gear teeth for > > obvious wear / damage (maybe take someone with you > that has experience, if > > at all possible). It would help to know the > mileage on the donor vehicle, > > but that may not be available (reliably!). These > diffs are very robust > and > > are capable of very high mileage with no trouble > (even in the heavier, but > > lower powered saloons), provided the maintenance > was done - ie: diligent > oil > > changes. > > > > Short of having an expert look the unit over on > the bench - gear mesh > > pattern check, pinion shims, bearings, etc, > there's not really much more > you > > can do 'in the field'. > > > > Let us know how it turns out. > > > > Earl Kagna > > Victoria, B. C. Canada > > '62 BT7 tri-carb > > '67 BJ8 > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: > > To: > > Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 3:04 AM > > Subject: How to check a diff for ratio and > potential problems. > > > > > > Hello, > > I have, after about a year, finally located a 3:54 > diff worth going to see > > and, hopefully buy. > > > > Now, as we all know the world of second hand ca > parts is not as full of > > thieves as some people make out, but a fool and > his money etcetc..... > > > > So, bearing in mind that I will be confronted by a > diff that is complete, > > but > > seperated from its housing:- > > How can I be sure that its 3:54? Must count the > teeth, right? How many > teeth > > etcetc? (am I looking for 11 & 39 teeth?) > > > > Are there any numbers stamped on either, or both, > crown or pinion? > > > > Is there anything else to check for? For example, > can I check for wear at > > all > > by looking at the teeth? (I don't mind having the > bearings replaced and > the > > whole thing set up by a professional, but there's > not much point if its > all From WilKo at aol.com From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 22:51:11 EST Subject: Re: Spare Diff 3.91:1 are everywhere and can go cheap. Whole rear axles go for 75 bucks. Rick San Diego http://members.aol.com/wilko From "Marge and/or Len" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 20:22:33 -0800 Subject: Re: What kind of seam sealer do you use? "...would recommend MMM 08369, 08370 (both in a foil pack) or 08374 (standard cartridge)(these are urethane) would NOT recommend any silicone based product as they do not handle vibrations real well..... where he is in his restoration....near the beginning.....this is his foundation for the long term.... do not trip over dimes to save pennies he might look at non MMM products, Fiberglass Evercoat has a brushable seam sealer in a can Undercoating.....MMM08883 spray can, 08864 no clean-up can, Dynatron Bondo 706 spray can this is a start kip " ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 4:38 PM Subject: Q: What kind of seam sealer do you use? > I'm in the middle of restoring my 63 BJ-7 and I have a question about what kind > > of seam sealer to use on underbody and chassis seams, ie floorboards, trunk > floor. In the past I have used Fast and Firm, a 3M product I think as well as > 3M Brushable Sealer. However, due to current financial constraints I'm unable > to and unwilling to dole out $13 a tube and $17 a can. Especially when I need > about 8 tubes, (that is a lot of micro-brew beer). Thus, the current dilemma. > I just used a DAP Latex '230' in a tube but a day after I applied it the metal > underneath showed a slight rusty tint. I figured that this was due to the > water in it. Forget latex based sealer. Then I looked at tube silicones for > around the kitchen and bath. They look like they would be great except that I > cannot find one that is paintable. Next I talked to a body guy who said that > he uses a urethane product in a tube. I do not know where to get this though. > Does anybody have any ideas or answers as to an economical seam sealer and > where I can find one? Also, what type of sealer or underbody coating do you > use inside the rear fender wells to even things out and blend? I don't want to > > use any tar crap and it must be paintable. It must be compatiable with a PPG > urethane enamel. Thanks in advance for your responses. > > Randy Dickson > Healey Archaeologist > 63 BJ-7 > Sturgeon Bay, WI. From "Reid Trummel" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 04:24:53 +0000 Subject: FOR SALE: Vol. 1, No. 1 of "Safety Fast" magazine http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3567593907&category=2241&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3567596401&category=2241&rd=1 Reid Reid Trummel Portland, Oregon 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master _________________________________________________________________ Need a shot of Hank Williams or Patsy Cline? The classic country stars are always singing on MSN Radio Plus. Try one month free! From "Greg Lemon" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 22:52:24 -0600 Subject: Re: Healey Blue TIA. Greg Lemon 54 BN1 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 7:40 PM Subject: Healey Blue > Well, a chassis repaint is now in order. Lucky all I need to do to get back > to a bare chassis is to drop the front and rear suspension. My new motto is > (always inspect what you expect) I bought five quarts of the PPG ice blue > metallic BU 2, two quarts of base for the chassis and three quarts for the rest of > the car. This product was mixed at the same time, but in two different gallon > cans, the can with the two quarts was the one with the greenish hew. I never > checked the other can wanting to keep it sealed for the painter. Today my painter > and I opened it to find it matched perfect to the to the correct Healey blue > that he has painted other healey's in. Big mix up with the mixing at the paint > shop. Live and learn. Just happy this was caught early so the car will all be > the correct color of Healey blue. Thanks to all who responded. This list is > super resource and the people are great. From "Keith Pennell" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 00:27:49 -0500 Subject: Re: Spare Diff The 3.9 is very common. Most anyone who works on these cars has one lying around. I have two. FWIW One of our listers has them up for sale on ebay all the time for 69. You would have to ask him if he sells any. Another drawback in buying one is shipping. Even the pumpkin alone can get expensive to ship not to mention a complete rear end. Keith Pennell > I have a spare diff that seems to have the 11/43 stamped on it. Was this > the most common one installed? Any idea what the value of it is--assuming > it is in good condition? I'm thinking of selling it. > > Regards > Tom From "Keith Pennell" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 00:30:03 -0500 Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. As others have said and I have heard many times before, the rears for the big Healeys are robust, bullet proof. Other than obvious wear or chips or missing teeth go ahead and buy the thing! Keith Pennell > Hello, > I have, after about a year, finally located a 3:54 diff worth going to see > and, hopefully buy. > > Now, as we all know the world of second hand ca parts is not as full of > thieves as some people make out, but a fool and his money etcetc..... > > So, bearing in mind that I will be confronted by a diff that is complete, but > seperated from its housing:- > How can I be sure that its 3:54? Must count the teeth, right? How many teeth > etcetc? (am I looking for 11 & 39 teeth?) > > Are there any numbers stamped on either, or both, crown or pinion? > > Is there anything else to check for? For example, can I check for wear at all > by looking at the teeth? (I don't mind having the bearings replaced and the > whole thing set up by a professional, but there's not much point if its all is > worn out??) > > Any other points to look out for? > > Thanks, > Simon. From Earl Kagna From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 22:09:51 -0800 Subject: Re: Spare Diff I've salvaged six 3:54 diff pods from old British saloons over the last few years - all I could find. Most are gone now (except for the one in my BJ8), and that's about what I've sold them for, give or take. Still one available if anyone's interested. Earl Kagna Victoria, B. C. Canada '62 BT7 tri-carb '67 BJ8 ---- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 7:51 PM Subject: Re: Spare Diff The 3.54:1 Diffs are hard to find and can fetch big bucks. I paid 500.00 for mine back in about '94. 3.91:1 are everywhere and can go cheap. Whole rear axles go for 75 bucks. Rick San Diego From "Ross Maylor" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 23:35:27 -0700 Subject: Re: Spare Diff Ross From Alan Bromfield From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 10:31:11 -0000 Subject: New Forest Centre - was BN4 front suspension Thanks for your response and interest. You are quite right, this list is amazing. Within hours I was receiving dimensional info that enabled me to start tracking down exactly where the arrors are. New Forest Centre If you check out the National AHC at http://www.austin-healey-club.com All of the UK centres are featured through the 'Centres' page. We are a small regional centre with around 150 members based in the picturesque New Forest district in South UK. We hope to find a budding web developer within the Centre to populate our own site at http://www.nfahc.co.uk. Anything will be an improvement on the rather basic textual stuff currently presented. The picture was taken at our annual concours event and features 1st, 2nd & 3rd Big Healeys at The Bull at Downton. Best wishes Alan Bromfield - New Forest Austin Healey Centre http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.bromfield/ -----Original Message----- From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net] Subject: Re: BN4 front suspension Hi Alan, You've come to the right list. I'm sure someone on this list can answer your question. I noticed at the end of your question it says New Forest Austin Healey Centre. Just for curiosity sake can you tell us what that is? Mark > Sorry about the rubbish below this line - I'm replying from work. > ------------------------------------------- The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal attention of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract. ntl Group Limited From "Peter Linn" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 23:41:54 +1000 Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. You solved one problem for me - Larry Varley who looked over the Ward Special for me before I bought it supected it had the 3.54 diff. I've just found (with some contortions!) the figures 11/39 stamped in the place you mentioned. So, unless the cw/pinion have been changed, Larry was right. The question now is, what's the road speed per 1000rpm in a late BN1 (23.2mph/1000rpm with standard 4.1 diff) with a 3.54 diff? Being a mathematical dunce, I'm not sure how to work it out (unless it's simply the % difference between the 2 ratios, which would give 27mph/1000rpm - sounds unlikely (but may explain why the car has a 140mph speedo!) Whatever, the motor is certainly able to pull the diff, albeit it's a bit sluggish from a standing start. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Australia BN1 Ward Spl coupe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Earl Kagna" To: ; "Healey List" Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 3:03 AM Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. > Simon: > > You've found one - excellent! > > Having done this a few times: The gear ratios, expressed as the number of > teeth, is stamped on the little 'shelf' just off the centreline on the top > of the diff pod. In the case of the 3:54 set, 11 / 39, with the digits > usually turned on their sides for some reason. (the 3:91 sets will be > stamped 11 / 43, and the earlier 4:1 sets 10 / 41). > > On the remote chance that someone has changed out the gearset in the past, I > always 'count the teeth' to be sure - 11 teeth on the pinion, 39 on the > crownwheel - obviously easy for you to do with the diff 'pod' removed from > the axle housing. > > As Mike Salter indicated in his post, it is a bit of a gamble as to whether > any given diff will be noisy or not - I have been surprised a couple of > times - both ways. About all you can do is to inspect the gear teeth for > obvious wear / damage (maybe take someone with you that has experience, if > at all possible). It would help to know the mileage on the donor vehicle, > but that may not be available (reliably!). These diffs are very robust and > are capable of very high mileage with no trouble (even in the heavier, but > lower powered saloons), provided the maintenance was done - ie: diligent oil > changes. > > Short of having an expert look the unit over on the bench - gear mesh > pattern check, pinion shims, bearings, etc, there's not really much more you > can do 'in the field'. > > Let us know how it turns out. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B. C. Canada > '62 BT7 tri-carb > '67 BJ8 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 3:04 AM > Subject: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. > > > Hello, > I have, after about a year, finally located a 3:54 diff worth going to see > and, hopefully buy. > > Now, as we all know the world of second hand ca parts is not as full of > thieves as some people make out, but a fool and his money etcetc..... > > So, bearing in mind that I will be confronted by a diff that is complete, > but > seperated from its housing:- > How can I be sure that its 3:54? Must count the teeth, right? How many teeth > etcetc? (am I looking for 11 & 39 teeth?) > > Are there any numbers stamped on either, or both, crown or pinion? > > Is there anything else to check for? For example, can I check for wear at > all > by looking at the teeth? (I don't mind having the bearings replaced and the > whole thing set up by a professional, but there's not much point if its all > is > worn out??) > > Any other points to look out for? > > Thanks, > Simon. > ! > >. From Tysonoxford at aol.com From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 09:58:34 EST Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20RE;=A0=20no=20subject,=20Healey=20Blue?= Mal Bruce From "Patton Dickson" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 10:02:21 -0600 Subject: Side curtain mounts Early 100-6 Thanks Patton ------------------------------------- Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX 1957 Austin-Healey BN4 Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/ For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert From "Patton Dickson" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 10:04:07 -0600 Subject: RE: Removing the Grease from the underside Hopefully I can build it up to become a useful site like my old Sprite site was. Patton -----Original Message----- From: Alex [mailto:alexmm@adelphia.net] Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 3:20 PM To: 'Patton Dickson' Cc: Healeys (E-mail) Subject: RE: Removing the Grease from the underside Good luck with your fine web site Patton! I look forward to seeing more as you develop it. == Alex in Maine 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie" Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8 Amateur Radio AI2Q http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm .-.-. -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Patton Dickson Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 9:03 PM To: Healey List Subject: Removing the Grease from the underside I had the car up on the ramps Saturday ....................... From "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 11:18:19 -0500 Subject: Adjustable Steering Wheel from a BJ8 fits a BT7? From Bob T From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 10:46:23 -0600 Subject: Brake master cylinder sleeves From "James Shope" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 08:51:47 -0800 Subject: looking for olin brimberry From Alan Bromfield From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 15:52:43 -0000 Subject: RE: Healey Blue I attach for your interest a couple of screen grabs showing the two recipes so that you can compare the content and infer the differences. If anyone else wants to see these recipes I can post them on my webspace. Alan Bromfield - New Forest Austin Healey Centre UK http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.bromfield/ -----Original Message----- From: Greg Lemon [mailto:glemon@neb.rr.com] Subject: Re: Healey Blue PPG Ice Blue Metallic BU2, is that a chrysler corp color from approximately the '80s era?, is that the color that is accepted as close to Healey Blue?, just wondering, my understanding that Ice Blue Metallic from Chrysler Corp was the POs choice of color when my car was re-stored some time ago TIA. Greg Lemon 54 BN1 -----End of Message----- Sorry about the rubbish below this line - I'm in work at the moment. ------------------------------------------- The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal attention of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract. ntl Group Limited [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of MetBlu.jpg] [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of ChrysBlu.jpg] From Earl Kagna From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 08:56:24 -0800 Subject: Re: Spare Diff Depends on which gearbox is in the Westminster: the manual shift cars had the 3:91 diff installed, the auto-trans cars the 3:54 diff. This was also true of the other big saloons of the same type - the Wolesley, and, I believe the Austin Princess. So -------- when you're prowling around the wrecking yards, you're looking for the automatics, right? Earl Kagna Victoria, B. C. Canada '62 BT7 tri-carb '67 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross Maylor" To: "Healey List" Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 10:35 PM Subject: Re: Spare Diff Any idea what diff is on an 57-58? Austin Westminster would be? The car has the six cylinder engine with the same manifold as the early BN4s. Ross From Earl Kagna From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 09:16:41 -0800 Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. Someone better at math than I would be able to give the exact theoretical reduction in RPM's with the 3:54 diff. FWIW, my tach says that I'm making about 450 RPM's less in top gear at freeway cruising speeds. My stock, somewhat tired motored BJ8 was able to pull most highway hills in top gear easily without shifting down. It's got a Smitty Toyota 5-speed conversion - 5th gear seems to be equivalent to about a 19 - 20% overdrive ratio, slighty less than a stock 3000's 22%. The seat-of-the-pants feel is exactly what I wanted - the car is currently under complete restoration - the driveline will go back in as it has been modified. Cheers, Earl Kagna Victoria, B. C. Canada '62 BT7 tri-carb '67 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Linn" To: "Earl Kagna" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 5:41 AM Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. Hi Earl You solved one problem for me - Larry Varley who looked over the Ward Special for me before I bought it supected it had the 3.54 diff. I've just found (with some contortions!) the figures 11/39 stamped in the place you mentioned. So, unless the cw/pinion have been changed, Larry was right. The question now is, what's the road speed per 1000rpm in a late BN1 (23.2mph/1000rpm with standard 4.1 diff) with a 3.54 diff? Being a mathematical dunce, I'm not sure how to work it out (unless it's simply the % difference between the 2 ratios, which would give 27mph/1000rpm - sounds unlikely (but may explain why the car has a 140mph speedo!) Whatever, the motor is certainly able to pull the diff, albeit it's a bit sluggish from a standing start. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Australia BN1 Ward Spl coupe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Earl Kagna" To: ; "Healey List" Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 3:03 AM Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. > Simon: > > You've found one - excellent! > > Having done this a few times: The gear ratios, expressed as the number of > teeth, is stamped on the little 'shelf' just off the centreline on the top > of the diff pod. In the case of the 3:54 set, 11 / 39, with the digits > usually turned on their sides for some reason. (the 3:91 sets will be > stamped 11 / 43, and the earlier 4:1 sets 10 / 41). > > On the remote chance that someone has changed out the gearset in the past, I > always 'count the teeth' to be sure - 11 teeth on the pinion, 39 on the > crownwheel - obviously easy for you to do with the diff 'pod' removed from > the axle housing. > > As Mike Salter indicated in his post, it is a bit of a gamble as to whether > any given diff will be noisy or not - I have been surprised a couple of > times - both ways. About all you can do is to inspect the gear teeth for > obvious wear / damage (maybe take someone with you that has experience, if > at all possible). It would help to know the mileage on the donor vehicle, > but that may not be available (reliably!). These diffs are very robust and > are capable of very high mileage with no trouble (even in the heavier, but > lower powered saloons), provided the maintenance was done - ie: diligent oil > changes. > > Short of having an expert look the unit over on the bench - gear mesh > pattern check, pinion shims, bearings, etc, there's not really much more you > can do 'in the field'. > > Let us know how it turns out. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B. C. Canada > '62 BT7 tri-carb > '67 BJ8 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 3:04 AM > Subject: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. > > > Hello, > I have, after about a year, finally located a 3:54 diff worth going to see > and, hopefully buy. > > Now, as we all know the world of second hand ca parts is not as full of > thieves as some people make out, but a fool and his money etcetc..... > > So, bearing in mind that I will be confronted by a diff that is complete, > but > seperated from its housing:- > How can I be sure that its 3:54? Must count the teeth, right? How many teeth > etcetc? (am I looking for 11 & 39 teeth?) > > Are there any numbers stamped on either, or both, crown or pinion? > > Is there anything else to check for? For example, can I check for wear at > all > by looking at the teeth? (I don't mind having the bearings replaced and the > whole thing set up by a professional, but there's not much point if its all > is > worn out??) > > Any other points to look out for? > > Thanks, > Simon. > ! > >. From "Michael Salter" From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 12:35:37 -0500 Subject: RE: Adjustable Steering Wheel from a BJ8 fits a BT7? Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of RAFAEL ABUGATTAS Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 11:18 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Adjustable Steering Wheel from a BJ8 fits a BT7? Hello Listers, Does anyone know if an original adjustable steering wheel from a 67 BJ8 would fit my 62 BT7? My car originally came with an adjustable steering wheel. The previous owner changed it for a Moto-Lita that is also adjustable. I guess there shouldn't be a problem but would appreciate confirmation. Thanks in advance, Rafael 62 BT7, '67 MGB From WilKo at aol.com From: To: "Healey list" Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 12:50:52 EST Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. http://members.aol.com/wilko/technical.htm > The question now is, what's the road speed per 1000rpm in a late BN1 > (23.2mph/1000rpm with standard 4.1 diff) with a 3.54 diff? Being a > mathematical dunce, I'm not sure how to work it out (unless it's simply the > % difference between the 2 ratios, which would give 27mph/1000rpm - sounds > unlikely (but may explain why the car has a 140mph speedo!) Whatever, the > motor is certainly able to pull the diff, albeit it's a bit sluggish from a > standing start. From Andrew Shrimpton From: To: "Healey list" Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 07:49:45 +1300 Subject: Rear Shock Damage I am running 30wt hydraulic oil as has been recommended, but am wondering if this is causing the problem. Would appreciate any comments. By the way I am trying to keep the car as an authentic rally replica, rather than convert to telescopic shocks Thanks Andrew Shrimpton New Zealand BT7 PS Pictures of car in Targa Rally at www.groundsky.co.nz, go to Targa CD on line, see car 176 From "HoYo" From: "Bob T" To: Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 12:54:23 -0500 Subject: Brake master cylinder sleeves > Hi List > I know this has been discussed many times before but I'm OLD. Where are > some good places to get cylinders sleeved and /or rebuilt? I do remember > that Apple Hyd. is out but what is in? > > TIA > Bob T From "Rich C" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 18:23:14 -0500 Subject: Adjustable Steering Wheel from a BJ8 fits a BT7? > Hello Listers, > Does anyone know if an original adjustable steering wheel from a 67 BJ8 would > fit my 62 BT7? > My car originally came with an adjustable steering wheel. The previous owner > changed it for a Moto-Lita that is also adjustable. > I guess there shouldn't be a problem but would appreciate confirmation. > Thanks in advance, > Rafael > 62 BT7, '67 MGB From Simonlachlan at aol.com From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 18:27:44 EST Subject: Differential questions - thanks Simon. From "Greg Lemon" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 17:44:04 -0600 Subject: Healey Hundred Sighting (sort of) No financial interest, etc. Greg Lemon 54 BN1 From tld6008 at mchsi.com From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 23:46:35 +0000 Subject: RE: Battery Trays Tim Davis BN7 > Hi Tim, > The original batteries had a hole in the upper lip of the case at each > end. Battery tie down bolts came up from the frame, through the holes in > the battery tray(s), up the side of the battery (actually the end), > through the holes in the lip of the battery and had wing nuts on the > top. Tightening the wing nut pulled the battery down tight onto the > frame trapping the tray between the bottom of the battery and the frame. > > Simple and effective, but I have some difficulty understanding why the > battery tray had a 3/4" high rim and 2 huge holes in the bottom !! > > Michael Salter > www.precisionsportscar.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of tld6008@mchsi.com > Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 1:20 PM > To: Healey list > Subject: Battery Trays > > Can someone enlighten me on how the battery trays attached to the two > support > rails on a BN7? The trays I have both have 2 holes about the size of a > dime and > I don't see the connection for securing them to the frame. > > Thanks, > > Tim Davis BN7 From tld6008 at mchsi.com From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 23:53:59 +0000 Subject: Re: Battery Trays Thanks Tim Davis BN7 > Hi Tim, > A quote from Anderson-Moment-- > > "The batteries sat in black-painted metal trays slightly larger than the > batteries. The hold-down rods, bent at the bottom to form Js, passed > outside the battery trays at the front & rear to hook under notches in > the chassis brackets. The rods passed through the battery hold-downs, & > had threaded tops that were fastened with 1/4 inch zinc-plated wing nuts > & single zinc plated plain flat washers" > > It sounds like you may have the trays for an earlier car which used > threaded rods through the dime size holes into nuts welded on the under > brackets. > > Dave Russell > BN2 > > tld6008@mchsi.com wrote: > > Can someone enlighten me on how the battery trays attached to the two support > > rails on a BN7? The trays I have both have 2 holes about the size of a dime > and > > I don't see the connection for securing them to the frame. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Tim Davis BN7 From Earl Kagna From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 15:57:18 -0800 Subject: Rebuilding Crankshaft Pulley There was a reference on this list awhile back about rebuilders in the US for the crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer assembly - thought I'd saved it but can't seem to find it in this computer - must have been on a 'delete spree'. (the archives are cumbersome for me!) I have the need - the Ausrtralian made replacements seem to be available only in the 3/8" belt size and I am rebuilding my late BJ8 motor with 1/2" pulleys. Can anyone help? TIA, Earl Kagna Victoria, B. C. Canada '62 BT7 tri-carb '67 BJ8 From "Freese, Ken" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 16:01:38 -0800 Subject: RE: Rebuilding Crankshaft Pulley From Brian N From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 17:39:09 -0800 Subject: Re: Spare Diff Thanks for telling me where to look for the ratio stamp. Easy enough to find. I was changing the rear seat screws anyway, so I just scraped away a little dirt and found: T 39 11 Don't know what the T is all about. But this confirms the 3.54 ratio of the non-OD cars, of which this was one. Thanks for the info. Brian N Santa Cruz, CA From "Wm. Severin Thompson" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 19:58:52 -0600 Subject: RE: Rebuilding Crankshaft Pulley -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Earl Kagna Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 5:57 PM To: Healey List Subject: Rebuilding Crankshaft Pulley List: There was a reference on this list awhile back about rebuilders in the US for the crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer assembly - thought I'd saved it but can't seem to find it in this computer - must have been on a 'delete spree'. (the archives are cumbersome for me!) I have the need - the Ausrtralian made replacements seem to be available only in the 3/8" belt size and I am rebuilding my late BJ8 motor with 1/2" pulleys. Can anyone help? TIA, Earl Kagna Victoria, B. C. Canada '62 BT7 tri-carb '67 BJ8! From "Bob Spidell" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 18:23:13 -0800 Subject: Re: Brake master cylinder sleeves I just had a servo cyl resleeved by Brake & Hydraulic Warehouse. They were featured in a recent issue of _Auto Restorer_ and have competitive or better pricing. Tell them you're a member of Austin-Healey Club USA (you are, aren't you ;) and get another $5 off. The work was excellent. Unfortunately, they sandblasted the surface where the air valve seats and I have to figure out how to smooth the surface (this was no fault of theirs). They use stainless steel sleeves and, interestingly enough, they don't hone the cyl to a mirror-smooth polish. They leave just the slightest hone pattern, which they claim helps to distribute the fluid and lubricate the seal (like in an engine cylinder with oil). They claim a mirror-smooth finish causes the seal to "squeegee" the fluid off the walls and actually promotes wear (makes sense to me). Brake & Equipment Warehouse 455 Harrison St. N. E. Minneapolis, MN 55413 (612) 378-3141 or (800) 233-4053 bs ******************************************** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M ******************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob T" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 8:46 AM Subject: Brake master cylinder sleeves > Hi List > I know this has been discussed many times before but I'm OLD. Where are > some good places to get cylinders sleeved and /or rebuilt? I do remember > that Apple Hyd. is out but what is in? > > TIA > Bob T From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 22:29:18 -0600 Subject: Bell Housing Ques. I went ahead and drilled the tapered pin out of the fork shaft and all went rather smoothly for a Healey project. The shaft itself its quite worn as I'm sure the bushings are too. After sizing up the shaft and hole it appears to be a perfect 1/2 inch. My questions are: - is there any reason I can't just use a cut off 1/2" bolt (no threads ) for $1.50 instead of a new shaft for $42.00? - Would that be a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt? - Are the nylon washers/shims original or should they be copper or steel? - There is a screw in the hole in end of the original shaft but it leads to a dead end, any guesses why that was put there? Thanks in advance, Mark From "Patton Dickson" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 22:13:44 -0600 Subject: Rear Axle Ratio advantages Thanks Patton ------------------------------------- Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX 1957 Austin-Healey BN4 Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/ For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert From RAHosmer at aol.com From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 23:30:59 EST Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. I believe the reduction rate is not "theoretical" at all, but is actually in direct proportion to the difference in ratios, i.e., 3.909/3.545 =1.1026 or 10.3%, or, going the other way, 3.545/3.909 = .907 or 9.3%. Same formula would be used to compare it to a 4.10. Dick Hosmer BT7L18556 From WilKo at aol.com From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 00:05:05 EST Subject: Re: Rear Axle Ratio advantages 4.11 is good for quick starting 3.91 is good all around 3.54 is great for cruising and good gas mileage. Since the Healeys are geared with a stump puller first gear, the 3.54 is no trouble at all and doesn't detract from normal driving (unless you enjoy spinning your wheels when you start). Rick San diego 3.54 rear end with 28% overdrive. In a message dated 11/19/03 8:15:15 PM, kpdii@earthlink.net writes: > With all of this talk about gear ratios, can someone point me to a source > detailing the available swaps and what the advantages are. I'm just > curious From Earl Kagna From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 21:14:03 -0800 Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. You're absolutely right - a bad choice of words on my part. It'l be an exact value, but math is not my strong suit! All I know for sure is that it made the car much more of a joy to drive on long trips. Cheers, --------------- Earl ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 8:30 PM Subject: Re: How to check a diff for ratio and potential problems. Earl & all, I believe the reduction rate is not "theoretical" at all, but is actually in direct proportion to the difference in ratios, i.e., 3.909/3.545 =1.1026 or 10.3%, or, going the other way, 3.545/3.909 = .907 or 9.3%. Same formula would be used to compare it to a 4.10. Dick Hosmer BT7L18556 From Bob T From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 23:46:48 -0600 Subject: Re: Rebuilding Crankshaft Pulley >List: > >There was a reference on this list awhile back about rebuilders in the US >for the crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer assembly - thought I'd saved >it but can't seem to find it in this computer - must have been on a 'delete >spree'. (the archives are cumbersome for me!) > >I have the need - the Ausrtralian made replacements seem to be available >only in the 3/8" belt size and I am rebuilding my late BJ8 motor with 1/2" >pulleys. > >Can anyone help? > >TIA, > >Earl, > On I0/28/03, Jerry Anderson of Hendrix Wire Wheel said that they use the following rebuilder Winslow MFG. 5700 Dean Ave. Raleigh, NC 27604 919-852-8909 Speak to Al Jerry said the last time they had a balancer done the charge was $70.00 Hope this helps Bob T BJ7 From Blue One Hundred From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 22:28:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Rear Shock Damage Since this is on the rear shock, you may want to consider reducing the damping rate, considering that you'd want a softer shock rate for a rally car, rather than the stiff shocks for cars run on a smooth race track. The best way to do this is to replace the shock valves with a weaker spring. I'm not an expert at this but I'm sure you can probably find someone in NZ who rebuilds armstrong shocks, and that person can probably provide you with alot of advice on what sort of spring rate the shock valve should have. Another thing to consider is to use rubber seals in the shock pistons rather than the brass seals that alot of rebuilders use these days. The brass seals last alot longer, but the rubber ones will have some give and probably help reduce your chance of warping shock bodies under load. It's not an ideal solution, but something to think about. Lastly, if I'm not mistaken, your shock should have 20 WT in it, not 30 WT, so the weight of the oil may be too viscous. Another option is to use motorcylcle fork oil, which is formulated very similar to original shock oil (it has anti-foaming agents in it). The fact you are using stock motor oil may be causing some of the problem as ... under load... the oil is foaming and under pressure and heat, the embedded foam in the oil is probably expanding and contributing to the warping your shock bodies. Try the fork oil... it may help. I hope what I have to say gives you some ideas... but frankly if I were you i'd just go with a telescoping shock if you are rallying... save yourself the grief! Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Andrew Shrimpton wrote: > I am rallying my BT7 and twice I have damaged a rear > shock. The shock > body blisters and blows out as if it may be > pressurised, resulting in > loss of fluid > > I am running 30wt hydraulic oil as has been > recommended, but am > wondering if this is causing the problem. > > Would appreciate any comments. By the way I am > trying to keep the car > as an authentic rally replica, rather than convert > to telescopic > shocks > > Thanks > > Andrew Shrimpton > New Zealand > BT7 > > PS Pictures of car in Targa Rally at > www.groundsky.co.nz, go to Targa > CD on line, see car 176 From Brian N From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 22:34:10 -0800 Subject: Re: Bell Housing Ques. I refurbished two Spitfires using the bolt-instead-of-shaft method. It works very well. Use grade 8 bolts with good lube, such as assembly lube on them. Make a hole as close to the bolt size as you can and still leave free movement. Happy motoring. Brian N. Santa Cruz, CA http://beachcitygas.com/ocmsrzr1.jpg From "John Rowe" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 19:58:39 +0800 Subject: Re: Rear Shock Damage Try running Penrite #2 Shockabsorber Oil for your lever arm shocks. I use it in mine for tarmac rallys and have no problem. Actually I run it all the time and for circuit racing as well but I have changed the valves in the front shocks to heavier ones. Our Australian National Austin Healey Rally for 2004 is being hosted by the Western Australian club in Albany WA. Check out the details at www.temco.com.au/AHCWA/2004Rally1.htm Hope to see you there. Cheers from the West Island John Rowe 1959 BT7 rally replica in disguise From Jerry Wall From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 05:57:03 -0600 Subject: Re: Rebuilding Crankshaft Pulley al winslow winslow mfg. 5700 dean ave. raleigh, nc 27604 Earl Kagna wrote: > > List: > > There was a reference on this list awhile back about rebuilders in the US > for the crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer assembly - thought I'd saved > it but can't seem to find it in this computer - must have been on a 'delete > spree'. (the archives are cumbersome for me!) > > I have the need - the Ausrtralian made replacements seem to be available > only in the 3/8" belt size and I am rebuilding my late BJ8 motor with 1/2" > pulleys. > > Can anyone help? > > TIA, > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B. C. Canada > '62 BT7 tri-carb > '67 BJ8 From "John Rowe" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 20:46:09 +0800 Subject: 3000 gea lever I am trying to locate a gear lever that believe was used in the late side shift 3000s. My parts book doesn't details any change in gear levers from the 100-6s to the end of the side shift gearboxes. The one I am after has 2 bends in it as indicated in the photo at http://www.temco.com.au/johnshomepage/g_lever1.jpg. This is a photo of the first 3000, a works rally car now displayed at the British Heritage Centre at Gaydon UK. Anyone out there prepared to enlighten me and/or point me in the direction of a lever. TIA and regards John Rowe Perth Western Australia 1959 BT7 car # 11 From "Bob Spidell" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 05:56:12 -0800 Subject: Re: Rear Axle Ratio advantages Interestingly enough, I didn't see much of an improvement in mileage, definitely not the 10% you could theoretically see. bs ******************************************** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M ******************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 9:05 PM Subject: Re: Rear Axle Ratio advantages > The readily available ratios are 4.11:1, 3.91:1 and 3.54:1. > > 4.11 is good for quick starting > 3.91 is good all around > 3.54 is great for cruising and good gas mileage. > > Since the Healeys are geared with a stump puller first gear, the 3.54 is no > trouble at all and doesn't detract from normal driving (unless you enjoy > spinning your wheels when you start). > > Rick > San diego > 3.54 rear end with 28% overdrive. > > In a message dated 11/19/03 8:15:15 PM, kpdii@earthlink.net writes: > > > > With all of this talk about gear ratios, can someone point me to a source > > detailing the available swaps and what the advantages are. I'm just > > curious From "Keith Pennell" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 09:41:09 -0500 Subject: Re: Rear Axle Ratio advantages Just for curiosity, anyone out there use a complete nonHealey rear? Would like to know if there are other options. My opinion on this is that if you are going to invest several hundred $ in this project, why not go to a ratio which makes a real difference? These cars are torquey enough to cruise the interstates like today's cars at 2000-2200 rpm. So why not go down to a 3.2 to 3.3 ratio? I did some research on American iron rear possibilities a while back. Yes I know you give up the quickness, but who among us is a street racer anyway? Keith Pennell 3.54 in a stock BJ8 3.9 in a stock BN7 > The readily available ratios are 4.11:1, 3.91:1 and 3.54:1. > > 4.11 is good for quick starting > 3.91 is good all around > 3.54 is great for cruising and good gas mileage. > > Since the Healeys are geared with a stump puller first gear, the 3.54 is no > trouble at all and doesn't detract from normal driving (unless you enjoy > spinning your wheels when you start). > > Rick > San diego > 3.54 rear end with 28% overdrive. From Brian N From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 06:53:20 -0800 Subject: Re: 3000 gea lever All the best, Brian From Brian N From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 06:59:03 -0800 Subject: Re: Rear Axle Ratio advantages Also, you can use the aviators forumula: Heat + Vibration + Noise = Motion Sounds like a Healcy, eh? Happy motoring. Brian N From Blue One Hundred From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 07:31:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: 3000 gea lever If I am not mistaken, only rally cars with overdrive switches on the gear knob used this type of lever... and it was simply something bent in the shop at DHMC. Otherwise all standard sideshifts had the normal one bend lever. Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- John Rowe wrote: > Hi all > > I am trying to locate a gear lever that believe was > used in the late side > shift 3000s. My parts book doesn't details any > change in gear levers from the > 100-6s to the end of the side shift gearboxes. > > The one I am after has 2 bends in it as indicated in > the photo at > http://www.temco.com.au/johnshomepage/g_lever1.jpg. > This is a photo of the > first 3000, a works rally car now displayed at the > British Heritage Centre at > Gaydon UK. > > Anyone out there prepared to enlighten me and/or > point me in the direction of > a lever. > > TIA > and regards > > John Rowe > Perth > Western Australia > 1959 BT7 car # 11 From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 09:32:29 -0600 Subject: Re: Healey Blue Kind regards Ed Saskatoon '65 BJ8 '89 Morgan 4/4 Alan Bromfield wrote: > Hi Greg > 'BU.2' is the Austin Healey factory code for Ice Blue Metallic (Healey > Blue). All the BMC colours were acquired by PPG and the recipe database > maintains the original mix. The Codes were also retained by PPG prefixed > with 'ARG' to identify 'Austin/Rover Group. Hence the new code for 'BU.2' > became 'ARG.BU2' > The nearest Chrysler recipe that matches your description would be 'CHR.VC4' > known as Glacier Blue from around 1982. I have no knowledge of whether this > is considered a close match when checked visually. > > I attach for your interest a couple of screen grabs showing the two recipes > so that you can compare the content and infer the differences. > > If anyone else wants to see these recipes I can post them on my webspace. > > Alan Bromfield - New Forest Austin Healey Centre > UK > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.bromfield/ > > -----Original Message----- > From: Greg Lemon [mailto:glemon@neb.rr.com] > Subject: Re: Healey Blue > > PPG Ice Blue Metallic BU2, is that a chrysler corp color from approximately > the '80s era?, is that the color that is accepted as close to Healey Blue?, > just wondering, my understanding that Ice Blue Metallic from Chrysler Corp > was the POs choice of color when my car was re-stored some time ago > > TIA. > > Greg Lemon > 54 BN1 > -----End of Message----- From Dean Caccavo From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 08:18:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Rear Axle Ratio advantages I find that with the 3.54 plus Smitty trans (5sp od) the issue is no longer RPMs, but how much wind noise you are willing to tollerate. Seems that 75-80 is about right for me for relaxed cruizing. Over 80 the motorcycle wind factor sets in. Ok for a short burst, but takes energy to sustain. Last time I stopped by I think Smitty was working on a Ford rear end with disk brakes... Dean BN7 --- Keith Pennell wrote: > Rick et al, > > Just for curiosity, anyone out there use a complete > nonHealey rear? Would > like to know if there are other options. > __________________________________ Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now http://companion.yahoo.com/ From "matt wilson" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 09:20:21 -0800 Subject: Re: 3000 gear lever ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blue One Hundred" To: "John Rowe" ; "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 7:31 AM Subject: Re: 3000 gea lever > John - > > If I am not mistaken, only rally cars with overdrive > switches on the gear knob used this type of lever... > and it was simply something bent in the shop at DHMC. > Otherwise all standard sideshifts had the normal one > bend lever. > > Cheers, > > Alan > > '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 > > > --- John Rowe wrote: > > Hi all > > > > I am trying to locate a gear lever that believe was > > used in the late side > > shift 3000s. My parts book doesn't details any > > change in gear levers from the > > 100-6s to the end of the side shift gearboxes. > > > > The one I am after has 2 bends in it as indicated in > > the photo at > > http://www.temco.com.au/johnshomepage/g_lever1.jpg. > > This is a photo of the > > first 3000, a works rally car now displayed at the > > British Heritage Centre at > > Gaydon UK. > > > > Anyone out there prepared to enlighten me and/or > > point me in the direction of > > a lever. > > > > TIA > > and regards > > > > John Rowe > > Perth > > Western Australia > > 1959 BT7 car # 11 From "Reid Trummel" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 17:48:03 +0000 Subject: Postscript: Classic Car Insurance Following my post of a week or two ago to this List regarding an apparently new 2500-mile-per-year restriction imposed by Hagerty insurance agency, I wrote to them about it. I received a quick response with very good news (i.e., they do NOT have a 2500-mile-per-year limit) and some other interesting info about permitted use, all of which confirms to me that they are still the company that they once were; meaning that I am still glad that I insure my special-interest cars with them. If you're interested in details, I'll provide excerpts of our correspondence below my signature. My original letter to them is not included -- I don't have a copy -- but their response to it begins the exchange; start at the bottom to follow the interchange. Reid Reid Trummel Portland, Oregon 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master "If the automobile had followed the same development as the computer, a Rolls-Royce would today cost $100, get a million miles per gallon, and explode once a year killing everyone inside." -Robert Cringely ------------------------------------------ Mr. Trummel, Thank you for your quick response to my email. Your usage does fit our program guidelines. Of course the fewer trips to the store the better as the exposure is greater on the car for claims in those circumstances. Also we prefer that the classics be kept in a garage when not in use so the trips you take where the vehicle may not be garaged is something we do not like to see. Of course we understand that this may occur occasionally and that is fine, you are still covered. If you can make arrangements to keep the car inside or at least in a secure area when taking overnight trips, we would prefer that. I hope I have answered your questions. Please feel free to contact me if I can help further. Thank you. -----Original Message----- From: Reid Trummel [mailto:editor@healey.org] Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 3:46 PM To: Kami Michael Subject: Re: Hagerty Insurance classic auto policy Dear Kami, Thanks very much for your informative response. However, the customer service rep I spoke with asked me to estimate annual mileage on the car, and I said 6,000 miles (which now that I think about it, is probably high), but she then specifically stated that 2500 miles was the limit. So I agreed to 2500 miles. We didn't discuss a "guideline" or an "industry standard." I'm glad to learn that you do not have a specific mileage limitation, but the rep I spoke with stated otherwise. Regarding usage of this car and my other cars insured through Hagerty, two are currently off-road in locked storage and are not used at all. The Sprite and this newly insured car are and will be used primarily for pleasure drives. I occasionally use them to attend club functions and car shows, but for the most part they are used for "weekend-type" drives (although these drives may occur during weekdays since I am retired). These drives occasionally include overnight trips (where they would normally be parked in a motel parking lot or in a friend or relative's driveway overnight). I would also like to feel free to drive them to the gym or a restaurant, or perhaps even for a quick errand on a nice day. In any case they are not used daily or as "backup" as I have a Jeep Cherokee and a Jaguar XJS that I use for everyday driving. These cars are insured with USAA. Thanks again for your response, and please let me know if these usages are within the limits of my coverage. I would hate to drive this newly insured car to the grocery store to pick up some snacks on a sunny day, have it damaged or stolen while I'm inside shopping, and then find out that it was not covered for such usage. Sincerely, Reid Trummel --- Kami Michael wrote: >Mr. Trummel, I received your recent email to us and >I would like to apologize for any misunderstanding >regarding our guidelines... regarding our usage guidelines we do not >have a specific mileage limitation. The customer >service rep you spoke with was referring to the >"industry standard" of 2500 miles per year. We are >more concerned with how people use their classic >vehicles. If they use them for daily or backup use >they do not fit our program. It sounds like your >usage is appropriate for our program but I would >like to get an idea of how you use your cars (i.e. >club functions, shows, pleasure drives etc.). Please let me know. You have >been a long standing >customer with Hagerty and we do appreciate your >business. Please feel free to email me back >regarding the usage of your classics or call me at >800-922-4050 ext. 8805. I look forward to hearing >from you soon. Kami Michael >Senior Underwriting Specialist >Hagerty Insurance Agency, Inc. >Ext. 8805 >www.hagerty.com _________________________________________________________________ Need a shot of Hank Williams or Patsy Cline? The classic country stars are always singing on MSN Radio Plus. Try one month free! From "David Ward" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 18:11:41 -0000 Subject: Re: 3000 gea lever www.bighealey.ltd.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Rowe" To: "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 12:46 PM Subject: 3000 gea lever > Hi all > > I am trying to locate a gear lever that believe was used in the late side > shift 3000s. My parts book doesn't details any change in gear levers from the > 100-6s to the end of the side shift gearboxes. > > The one I am after has 2 bends in it as indicated in the photo at > http://www.temco.com.au/johnshomepage/g_lever1.jpg. This is a photo of the > first 3000, a works rally car now displayed at the British Heritage Centre at > Gaydon UK. > > Anyone out there prepared to enlighten me and/or point me in the direction of > a lever. > > TIA > and regards > > John Rowe > Perth > Western Australia > 1959 BT7 car # 11 From "tom felts" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 13:11:14 -0500 Subject: RE: Postscript: Classic Car Insurance Regards tom > [Original Message] > From: Reid Trummel > To: > Date: 11/20/03 12:48:54 PM > Subject: Postscript: Classic Car Insurance > > Hi Team, > > Following my post of a week or two ago to this List regarding an apparently > new 2500-mile-per-year restriction imposed by Hagerty insurance agency, I > wrote to them about it. I received a quick response with very good news > (i.e., they do NOT have a 2500-mile-per-year limit) and some other > interesting info about permitted use, all of which confirms to me that they > are still the company that they once were; meaning that I am still glad that > I insure my special-interest cars with them. If you're interested in > details, I'll provide excerpts of our correspondence below my signature. My > original letter to them is not included -- I don't have a copy -- but their > response to it begins the exchange; start at the bottom to follow the > interchange. > > Reid > > Reid Trummel > Portland, Oregon > 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master > "If the automobile had followed the same development as the computer, a > Rolls-Royce would today cost $100, get a million miles per gallon, and > explode once a year killing everyone inside." -Robert Cringely > > ------------------------------------------ > Mr. Trummel, > Thank you for your quick response to my email. Your usage does fit our > program guidelines. Of course the fewer trips to the store the better as > the exposure is greater on the car for claims in those circumstances. Also > we prefer that the classics be kept in a garage when not in use so the trips > you take where the vehicle may not be garaged is something we do not like to > see. Of course we understand that this may occur occasionally and that is > fine, you are still covered. If you can make arrangements to keep the car > inside or at least in a secure area when taking overnight trips, we would > prefer that. I hope I have answered your questions. Please feel free to > contact me if I can help further. > Thank you. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Reid Trummel [mailto:editor@healey.org] > Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 3:46 PM > To: Kami Michael > Subject: Re: Hagerty Insurance classic auto policy > > > Dear Kami, > > Thanks very much for your informative response. However, the customer > service rep I spoke with asked > me to estimate annual mileage on the car, and I said 6,000 miles (which now > that I think about it, is > probably high), but she then specifically stated that 2500 miles was the > limit. So I agreed to 2500 miles. > We didn't discuss a "guideline" or an "industry standard." I'm glad to > learn that you do not have a > specific mileage limitation, but the rep I spoke with stated otherwise. > > Regarding usage of this car and my other cars insured through Hagerty, two > are currently off-road in locked > storage and are not used at all. The Sprite and this newly insured car are > and will be used primarily > for pleasure drives. I occasionally use them to attend club functions and > car shows, but for the most > part they are used for "weekend-type" drives (although these drives may > occur during weekdays since I am retired). These drives occasionally > include overnight trips (where they would normally be parked in a motel > parking lot or in a friend or relative's driveway overnight). I would also > like to feel free to drive them to the gym or a restaurant, or perhaps even > for a quick errand on a nice day. > > In any case they are not used daily or as "backup" as I have a Jeep Cherokee > and a Jaguar XJS that I use for everyday driving. These cars are insured > with USAA. > > Thanks again for your response, and please let me know if these usages are > within the limits of my coverage. I would hate to drive this newly insured > car to the grocery store to pick up some snacks on a sunny day, have it > damaged or stolen while I'm inside shopping, and then find out that it was > not covered for such usage. > > Sincerely, > Reid Trummel > > > --- Kami Michael wrote: > >Mr. Trummel, I received your recent email to us and > >I would like to apologize for any misunderstanding > >regarding our guidelines... regarding our usage guidelines we do not > >have a specific mileage limitation. The customer > >service rep you spoke with was referring to the > >"industry standard" of 2500 miles per year. We are > >more concerned with how people use their classic > >vehicles. If they use them for daily or backup use > >they do not fit our program. It sounds like your > >usage is appropriate for our program but I would > >like to get an idea of how you use your cars (i.e. > >club functions, shows, pleasure drives etc.). Please let me know. You have > >been a long standing > >customer with Hagerty and we do appreciate your > >business. Please feel free to email me back > >regarding the usage of your classics or call me at > >800-922-4050 ext. 8805. I look forward to hearing > >from you soon. Kami Michael > >Senior Underwriting Specialist > >Hagerty Insurance Agency, Inc. > >Ext. 8805 > >www.hagerty.com > > _________________________________________________________________ > Need a shot of Hank Williams or Patsy Cline? The classic country stars are From "Tracy Drummond" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 13:17:53 -0500 Subject: Re: 3000 gea lever Mine has the bent shifter and I believe it to be original but cannot confirm. It is a 1960BT7 BT7L/3213. Tracy On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 06:53:20 -0800 Brian N wrote: >According to the production change charts in Anderson and >Moment's book, sometime in 1961 the shift to double bent >shifters was made. There may not be that many around, >since center shifters came out close thereafter. > >All the best, > >Brian From Steve Gerow From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 10:22:25 -0800 Subject: New Wires on old Lucas dist cap My question--how do you replace the coil wire--I can't see any screw? Is it under the funky spot in the center of the outside of the cap? -- Steve Gerow Pasadena CA 59 BN6 From WilKo at aol.com From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 13:23:25 EST Subject: Re: 3000 gea lever Rick San Diego From "Jaap Aeckerlin" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 20:06:32 +0100 Subject: weld nuts TIA Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 1974 BMW 75/6 From David Nock From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 11:20:51 -0800 Subject: Re: New Wires on old Lucas dist cap > I've got a stock Lucas cap with the lettering on it, and want to replace the > wires. > > My question--how do you replace the coil wire--I can't see any screw? > > Is it under the funky spot in the center of the outside of the cap? The screw is under the carbon brush inside the cap. -- David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030 http://www.britishcarspecialists.com From David Nock From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 11:20:51 -0800 Subject: Re: New Wires on old Lucas dist cap > I've got a stock Lucas cap with the lettering on it, and want to replace the > wires. > > My question--how do you replace the coil wire--I can't see any screw? > > Is it under the funky spot in the center of the outside of the cap? The screw is under the carbon brush inside the cap. -- David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030 http://www.britishcarspecialists.com From John Loftus From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 12:11:34 -0800 Subject: Re: weld nuts My BJ7 has the two weld nuts in the position you describe. It's for the wood block that positions the tire and the spare tire hold down rod. Cheers, John Jaap Aeckerlin wrote: >Listers, >Reconstructing the boot of my BJ8 I came across two rough shaped holes - it >looks like they carried two weld nuts in the far past. >The location of these holes: from the left tank strap bracket's top holes >approx. 5.5/8"up, then 2" to the left and 2" to the right. >Can anyone tell me >a) whether these were in fact weld nuts >b) if so, what the purpose of these nuts is/was? >I now can still drill holes in the sheet work nd weld them in, if necessary. > >TIA > >Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands >1964 BJ8 29432 >1974 BMW 75/6 From "John Snyder" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 12:37:36 -0800 Subject: Re: weld nuts John Snyder "Reconstructing the boot of my BJ8 I came across two rough shaped holes - it looks like they carried two weld nuts in the far past The location of these holes: from the left tank strap bracket's top holes approx. 5.5/8"up, then 2" to the left and 2" to the right. Can anyone tell me a) whether these were in fact weld nuts b) if so, what the purpose of these nuts is/was? I now can still drill holes in the sheet work nd weld them in, if necessary." From "John Snyder" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 12:47:41 -0800 Subject: Re: 3000 gea lever John Snyder ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tracy Drummond" To: "Brian N" ; "John Rowe" ; Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 10:17 AM Subject: Re: 3000 gea lever > Brian, > > Mine has the bent shifter and I believe it to be original > but cannot confirm. It is a 1960BT7 BT7L/3213. > > Tracy > > On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 06:53:20 -0800 > Brian N wrote: > >According to the production change charts in Anderson and > >Moment's book, sometime in 1961 the shift to double bent > >shifters was made. There may not be that many around, > >since center shifters came out close thereafter. From "Tracy Drummond" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 15:55:44 -0500 Subject: Re: weld nuts Sounds like what you describe are for the tire hold down assembly. Tracy On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 20:06:32 +0100 "Jaap Aeckerlin" wrote: >Listers, >Reconstructing the boot of my BJ8 I came across two rough >shaped holes - it >looks like they carried two weld nuts in the far past. >The location of these holes: from the left tank strap >bracket's top holes >approx. 5.5/8"up, then 2" to the left and 2" to the >right. >Can anyone tell me >a) whether these were in fact weld nuts >b) if so, what the purpose of these nuts is/was? >I now can still drill holes in the sheet work nd weld >them in, if necessary. > >TIA > >Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands >1964 BJ8 29432 >1974 BMW 75/6 From "Mike Brouillette" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 16:44:44 -0500 Subject: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2444295084 From Awgertoo at aol.com From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 17:04:28 EST Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Someone on the list must know something about the car's recent history. FWIW, a google search under Mark Cooke and Charlottesville (stated in the ebay ad) showed the following: http://www.euroclassics.com/ So maybe the way you get to own a 100S is by having a Porsche dealership. Best--Michael Oritt From "tom felts" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 17:17:50 -0500 Subject: Re: New Wires on old Lucas dist cap > [Original Message] > From: David Nock > To: Steve Gerow ; Healeys ; > Date: 11/20/03 2:22:28 PM > Subject: Re: New Wires on old Lucas dist cap > > on 11/20/03 10:22 AM, Steve Gerow at sgerow@singular.com wrote: > > > I've got a stock Lucas cap with the lettering on it, and want to replace the > > wires. > > > > My question--how do you replace the coil wire--I can't see any screw? > > > > Is it under the funky spot in the center of the outside of the cap? > > The screw is under the carbon brush inside the cap. > -- > David Nock > British Car Specialists > Stockton Ca > 209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030 > http://www.britishcarspecialists.com From "Mike Brouillette" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 17:32:37 -0500 Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 5:04 PM To: m.brouillette@comcast.net Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Mike-- Someone on the list must know something about the car's recent history. FWIW, a google search under Mark Cooke and Charlottesville (stated in the ebay ad) showed the following: http://www.euroclassics.com/ So maybe the way you get to own a 100S is by having a Porsche dealership. Best--Michael Oritt From "Quinn, Patrick" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 09:34:02 +1100 Subject: RE: Rear Shock Damage If your shock absorber is blistering it sounds as if the shock itself is getting hot and the oil is boiling. It is certainly not a new problem and one that was experienced by the Works Rally 3000s as well. How they got around the problem was to fit a system of brake pipes and reservoirs full of shock oil directly above each shock absorber. The pipe would be plumbed directly into where the filler plug is fitted. This would increase the amount of oil to each shock substantially and not only compensate for any loss but with such an increase in fluid there would be almost next to nil chance of boiling. Of course be sure to fill with proper shock oil. Only last week I bought a litre bottle of Penrite Shock Absorber Fluid No 2. It is designed specifically for Armstrong shocks and cost me all of AU$9.95. If you can't get Penrite in NZ I would be pleased to get you a bottle and send it to you. Or try www.penrite.com.au Regards Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 ps. Too bad about the All Blacks -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Shrimpton [mailto:andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz] Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 5:50 AM To: Healey List Subject: Rear Shock Damage I am rallying my BT7 and twice I have damaged a rear shock. The shock body blisters and blows out as if it may be pressurised, resulting in loss of fluid I am running 30wt hydraulic oil as has been recommended, but am wondering if this is causing the problem. Would appreciate any comments. By the way I am trying to keep the car as an authentic rally replica, rather than convert to telescopic shocks Thanks Andrew Shrimpton New Zealand BT7 PS Pictures of car in Targa Rally at www.groundsky.co.nz, go to Targa CD on line, see car 176 ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From Awgertoo at aol.com From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 18:01:12 EST Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > Article C) Fraudulent 100S - We have heard of the possibility of a > fraudulent 100S coming to the USA from the UK. The vehicle is complete with > a fake ID plate as well as FIA papers. Believed Mark Cooke, an insurance > broker in Bermuda is responsible for this car. > Well that didn't take long. So what about advising ebay or can that be done? Best--Michael From "Patton Dickson" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 17:06:12 -0600 Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay -----Original Message----- From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 5:01 PM To: kpdii@earthlink.net; m.brouillette@comcast.net Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay In a message dated 11/20/2003 5:55:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, kpdii@earthlink.net writes: Article C) Fraudulent 100S - We have heard of the possibility of a fraudulent 100S coming to the USA from the UK. The vehicle is complete with a fake ID plate as well as FIA papers. Believed Mark Cooke, an insurance broker in Bermuda is responsible for this car. Well that didn't take long. So what about advising ebay or can that be done? Best--Michael From "Mike Brouillette" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 18:09:10 -0500 Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Mike B -----Original Message----- From: Patton Dickson [mailto:kpdii@earthlink.net] Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 5:55 PM To: Awgertoo@aol.com; m.brouillette@comcast.net Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay I just found a mention in a dead link cache in googe. There were the minutes of the Board of Delagates Meeting, November 10-11, 2001 Leesburg, Virginia on the http://www.ahcso.com/ site. Section 4. Other Article C) Fraudulent 100S - We have heard of the possibility of a fraudulent 100S coming to the USA from the UK. The vehicle is complete with a fake ID plate as well as FIA papers. Believed Mark Cooke, an insurance broker in Bermuda is responsible for this car. Here's the Google cache link (you would have to cut a paste this) http://216.239.41.104/search?q=cache:dI3uV6BqsvUJ:www.ahcso.com/Artical%2520 of%2520Int%25202/Art%2520of%2520Int%2520MF%25203.htm Patton (I don't know if its true, I'm just reporting) From Healeyguy at aol.com From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 18:12:24 -0500 Subject: Re: British Van Identification (not Healey related) From "Diann Jones" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 12:31:10 +1300 Subject: Other Weld Nuts in the Trunk Area Regards Diann From "Quinn, Patrick" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 10:50:15 +1100 Subject: RE: British Van Identification (not Healey related) My memory is hazy but I seem to recall it was an A30 van. Lovely car. I have attached a pic which probably won't come out on the list but should be okay with you. Regards Patrick -----Original Message----- From: Healeyguy@aol.com [mailto:Healeyguy@aol.com] Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 10:12 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: British Van Identification (not Healey related) Listers Has anyone recently seen the adaptaion of Roald Dahl's Little Red Riding Hood on Bravo (cable)? In it there is a small dark green British snub nosed panel van with swing out rear doors that is featured in the scene where the animals are removed from Grandma's house. I'm trying to determine the manufacturer, model and year of the truck. Any help would be appreciated. Pretty obscure but with winter setting in many parts of the world, you may have had some extra quality time with the wife and noticed it on the television. Thanks Aloha Perry ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of A30 Van.jpg] From "Russ Bamsey" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 18:59:08 -0500 Subject: Re: Rear Shock Damage From "Reid Trummel" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 00:00:24 +0000 Subject: RE: Postscript: Classic Car Insurance Reid Trummel Portland, Oregon 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master >From: "tom felts" >Reply-To: tomfelts@earthlink.net >To: "Reid Trummel" , healeys@autox.team.net >Subject: RE: Postscript: Classic Car Insurance >Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 13:11:14 -0500 > >Just for curiosity, where did your original mis-informed info come from? > >Regards >tom > > > > [Original Message] > > From: Reid Trummel > > To: > > Date: 11/20/03 12:48:54 PM > > Subject: Postscript: Classic Car Insurance > > > > Hi Team, > > > > Following my post of a week or two ago to this List regarding an >apparently > > new 2500-mile-per-year restriction imposed by Hagerty insurance agency, >I > > wrote to them about it. I received a quick response with very good news > > (i.e., they do NOT have a 2500-mile-per-year limit) and some other > > interesting info about permitted use, all of which confirms to me that >they > > are still the company that they once were; meaning that I am still glad >that > > I insure my special-interest cars with them. If you're interested in > > details, I'll provide excerpts of our correspondence below my signature. >My > > original letter to them is not included -- I don't have a copy -- but >their > > response to it begins the exchange; start at the bottom to follow the > > interchange. > > > > Reid > > > > Reid Trummel > > Portland, Oregon > > 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master > > "If the automobile had followed the same development as the computer, a > > Rolls-Royce would today cost $100, get a million miles per gallon, and > > explode once a year killing everyone inside." -Robert Cringely _________________________________________________________________ Set yourself up for fun at home! Get tips on home entertainment equipment, video game reviews, and more here. http://special.msn.com/home/homeent.armx From David Nock From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 16:02:55 -0800 Subject: Re: New Wires on old Lucas dist cap > Silly question, but how do you remove the carbon brush to remove the screw? > > >> [Original Message] >> From: David Nock >> To: Steve Gerow ; Healeys ; > >> Date: 11/20/03 2:22:28 PM >> Subject: Re: New Wires on old Lucas dist cap >> >> on 11/20/03 10:22 AM, Steve Gerow at sgerow@singular.com wrote: >> >>> I've got a stock Lucas cap with the lettering on it, and want to > replace the >>> wires. >>> >>> My question--how do you replace the coil wire--I can't see any screw? >>> >>> Is it under the funky spot in the center of the outside of the cap? >> >> The screw is under the carbon brush inside the cap. >> -- >> David Nock >> British Car Specialists >> Stockton Ca >> 209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030 >> http://www.britishcarspecialists.com > > > just pull it out. it will have a small spring in the back side -- David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030 http://www.britishcarspecialists.com From dicksonr at uwm.edu From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 18:14:40 -0600 Subject: Re: 3000 gear lever Quoting John Snyder : > The actual change point (per Clausager) for the "cranked" gear shift lever > was engine # 29D/20598, in August 1960. My unrestored BT7L-11923 w/ engine > # 29D/21402 has one. This car was built 9/60. > > John Snyder > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tracy Drummond" > To: "Brian N" ; "John Rowe" ; > > Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 10:17 AM > Subject: Re: 3000 gea lever > > > > Brian, > > > > Mine has the bent shifter and I believe it to be original > > but cannot confirm. It is a 1960BT7 BT7L/3213. > > > > Tracy > > > > On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 06:53:20 -0800 > > Brian N wrote: > > >According to the production change charts in Anderson and > > >Moment's book, sometime in 1961 the shift to double bent > > >shifters was made. There may not be that many around, > > >since center shifters came out close thereafter. From Healeyolic From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 19:49:48 -0500 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Brouillette" To: "'Patton Dickson'" ; Cc: Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 6:09 PM Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay | I have shot a note to the seller asking him about the car. I will post his | response when and if he responds... | | | Mike B | | | -----Original Message----- | From: Patton Dickson [mailto:kpdii@earthlink.net] | Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 5:55 PM | To: Awgertoo@aol.com; m.brouillette@comcast.net | Cc: healeys@autox.team.net | Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay | | I just found a mention in a dead link cache in googe. There were the | minutes of the Board of Delagates Meeting, November 10-11, 2001 Leesburg, | Virginia on the http://www.ahcso.com/ site. | | Section 4. Other | | Article C) Fraudulent 100S - We have heard of the possibility of a | fraudulent 100S coming to the USA from the UK. The vehicle is complete with | a fake ID plate as well as FIA papers. Believed Mark Cooke, an insurance | broker in Bermuda is responsible for this car. | | Here's the Google cache link (you would have to cut a paste this) | http://216.239.41.104/search?q=cache:dI3uV6BqsvUJ:www.ahcso.com/Artical%2520 | of%2520Int%25202/Art%2520of%2520Int%2520MF%25203.htm | | | Patton | (I don't know if its true, I'm just reporting) | | From "Michael Salter" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 20:08:58 -0500 Subject: RE: New Wires on old Lucas dist cap Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom felts Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 5:18 PM To: David Nock; Steve Gerow; healeys; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: New Wires on old Lucas dist cap Silly question, but how do you remove the carbon brush to remove the screw? > [Original Message] > From: David Nock > To: Steve Gerow ; Healeys ; > Date: 11/20/03 2:22:28 PM > Subject: Re: New Wires on old Lucas dist cap > > on 11/20/03 10:22 AM, Steve Gerow at sgerow@singular.com wrote: > > > I've got a stock Lucas cap with the lettering on it, and want to replace the > > wires. > > > > My question--how do you replace the coil wire--I can't see any screw? > > > > Is it under the funky spot in the center of the outside of the cap? > > The screw is under the carbon brush inside the cap. > -- > David Nock > British Car Specialists > Stockton Ca > 209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030 > http://www.britishcarspecialists.com From dicksonr at uwm.edu From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 19:21:28 -0600 Subject: need panel measurements! Randy Dickson Healey Archaeologist 63 BJ-7 Sturgeon Bay, WI. From Blue One Hundred From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 17:49:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay If you look at the pictures, particularly in the engine compartment, the car's motor and chassis look 100% authentic. Note that the motor valve covers appear to have a dennis welch emblem on it... so that might be a place to start for verification enquiries. Note the wood propping up the bonnet lid. The front suspension area looks ok, but it appears the front oil cooler is missing (as well as radiator ducting etc... don't know if 100S had this. Also, the brakes appear to be Girling brakes (not dunlop) although this may have been replaced later if the the was in a front ender possibly or possibly for better road worthiness. The steering wheel appears to be a 15" motolita, which is incorrect, it should be a 16" derrington style from the factory.... although these things can dissapear or get misplaced over the years. It also has 72 spoke rims... don't know what is authentic on a 100S, but again this is very possibly an intentional replacement. I'm suspicious about the OD being fitted, as this seems a bit dodgy. Either someone spent $100,000 making a fake... or it's the real thing. I tend to believe it's the real thing that's been "frankenstiened" over the years. Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 --- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 11/20/2003 5:55:29 PM Eastern > Standard Time, > kpdii@earthlink.net writes: > > > Article C) Fraudulent 100S - We have heard of the > possibility of a > > fraudulent 100S coming to the USA from the UK. The > vehicle is complete with > > a fake ID plate as well as FIA papers. Believed > Mark Cooke, an insurance > > broker in Bermuda is responsible for this car. > > > Well that didn't take long. So what about advising > ebay or can that be done? > > Best--Michael From "Michael Salter" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 20:58:34 -0500 Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay But hey, it is an imitation and I'm flattered :-) The bonnet however, could be original, although it is not too hard to stamp numbers in an alloy flange. Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Brouillette Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 4:45 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Ok, I know what I want for Christmas. Come to think of it, I promise I won't ask for anything for Christmas for the rest of my days... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2444295084 From "Kent McLean" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 21:53:28 -0500 Subject: Re: Rear Shock Damage Just a wild arse guess, but were you running in cold weather? Perhaps the straight 30wt oil, thick from the cold, didn't flow as normal and blew out the shock? Maybe change to a synthetic oil instead? Kent '56 100 BN2 From "John Snyder" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 19:38:53 -0800 Subject: Re: need panel measurements! John Snyder ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 5:21 PM Subject: need panel measurements! I have been grinding, welding grinding, welding, grinding, welding, grinding, welding my rear clip (rear sheetmetal) for the past year and finally have the damn thing mounted properly. Or so I think. Anyway, I need to know where the little trunk panel (with the batt. cable hole in it) that is in front of the battery, behind the fuel neck goes. Exactly where does it weld on the trunk box/floor and where on the rear seat back/bulkhead???????? Much thanks in advance. From joe mulqueen From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 19:46:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: Dupont "special formula" Healey Blue .....I have been frustrated in my search for THE Healey Ice Blue paint for my BJ8. I should say here that I am not seeking the correct color for concourse restoration reasons but because it is the color that has stuck in my minds eye for 35 years and its the color I want. After searching through books, official color codes, the Healey list archives and hidden body panels, I found (surprize!) that there is very little agreement on what is the correct color. Is it green tinged, tealish, lt. bluish, purple tinged, silver bluish? Ughhh... I finally gave up after becoming thoroughly confused and called upon one of our expert resources, Gary Anderson, for his thoughts on how I could nail down this enigmatic color. As most of you know, Gary is very familiar with the H.Blue/OEW two tone paint scheme and he suggested that I try to locate a fellow in Los Angeles that used to mix up the color from his own recipe. Gary explained that this guy was a Healey collector who was quite knowledgable on issues related to Healey paint. Gary felt that his Healey Blue was as close as he has seen to the original. The fellow is an older guy now retired but has passed his auto paint business on to his son. I called them, they indicated that they are still mixing up the magic brew and in fact they still mix and ship it all over the world. I arranged for my painter to acquire this special elixer and the rest is history. I am very pleased with the result. Is it THE Healey Ice Blue? I really dont know nor do I care. What I do know is that it is the color Ive been carrying in my minds eye since 1962. I thought I would share this little story with the rest of you in case you are on a similar search for that lost Healey color. Heres the guy: R&R Paint Supply located in Long Beach, 562-428-3648. Its a Dupont Chromabase (basecoat/clearcoat) paint. Ask for Dick............... __________________________________ Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now http://companion.yahoo.com/ From joe mulqueen From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 20:28:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: PPG interpretation(s) for ICI 2301M Healey blue From: "Refinish Sales Service" To:"'joemulqueen'" Subject:RE: Refinish Web Feedback Form Date:Thu, 29 Aug 2002 13:48:27 -0400 Here is a Prophet/computer generated formula for 13947 in DCC. This formula is for one quart in cumulative parts. Toners/Bases Quart/Parts DMC981 609.6 DMC983 630.7 DMC904 645.9 DMC923 654.8 DMC902 663.9 DMC934 682.1 DMC984 1050.4 Hope this is what you need. If you have any further questions, please contact us. PPG Color Library MJM -----Original Message----- From: joe mulqueen [mailto:joemulqueen@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 6:57 PM To: Refinish Sales Service Subject: RE: Refinish Web Feedback Form Thank you for the information - I'm painting very soon. Can you also provide a "Prophet" in DCC Concept? I want to use DCC for the wheel arches and frame rails. Thanks for the help, Joe Mulqueen '60 Austin Healey --- Refinish Sales Service wrote: > Thank you for your interest in PPG Automotive > Refinish Paints. The code you have listed crosses > to PPG Number 13947 which is called Ice Blue from a > Rover. The color is obsolete. The formula listed > below is a computer generated formula from a > standard of the original color. This formula is for > one quart in cumulative parts. > > Bases Quart/Parts > DMD649 113.3 > DMD658 115.1 > DMD624 122.4 > DMD635 150.7 > DMD647 190.8 > DMD615 246.2 > DMD633 473.0 > DBX695 1030.0 > > Hope this will be helpful to you. If you have any > further questions, please contact us. > > PPG Color Library > MJM > > > -----Original Message----- > From: MulqueenJoe [mailto:MulqueenJoe] > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 6:56 PM > To: reftechserv@ppg.com > Subject: Refinish Web Feedback Form > Hello, I'm a British car collector as are many of my friends. Is it possible to provide a Deltron DBU color code for an ICI automotive paint? The ICI code is 2301M. > Thanks, > Joe Mulqueen > '60 Austin Healey __________________________________ Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now http://companion.yahoo.com/ From "Patton Dickson" From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 23:05:27 -0600 Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Also, why the language? Patton -----Original Message----- From: HoYo [mailto:hoyo@bellsouth.net] Sent: Friday, July 20, 2001 10:07 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net; Patton Dickson Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay OH! well f*ck me!! Threaten to sue me, or better yet F@#kING sue me! Get in line!!spend your money& take your chances!! from some one who bought a common MGC with dubious documentation.......thank God i know the difference between a GT and a 'Tourer' door!!and could explain it to the police in 1979!! oh! and it had the ONLY Fram filter ever made for an MGC!!! a bit early, HoHoHoYo ps NO WONDER it's so fuckin' cheap I could afford it, and i haven't worked since May '02!! H.L.Y. From Brian N From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 21:29:00 -0800 Subject: If it were real, why is it on eBay? eBay is not known for getting the highest possible prices on collector big ticket collector items compared to other venues. Sooooo.... You gotta wonder... From Blue One Hundred From: "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" To: Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 23:56:54 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Other Weld Nuts in the Trunk Area It might help if you tell us what model Healey you have. Also, what is the space between these nuts and are they side by side or one on top of the other? Regards, Alan '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 --- Diann Jones wrote: > Jack your question re the weld nuts reminded me of > two other weld nuts in the > trunk area that I do not know what there purpose is. > These weld nuts are on > the truck side and would therefore take a bolt from > the diff side. There > location is measuring from the lower centre nut of > the gas tank strap down > approximately 35mm (1 3/8")and out towards the wheel > by approximately 60mm (2 > 3/8") (one on each side). Would be interested to > know what these were > intended to take? or what purpose they have? > > Regards > Diann From "HoYo" From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'HoYo'" ; Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 04:24:44 -0500 Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > What's that about????? If anyone is accusing something of being a fake when > it is worth 6 figures, be prepared to back your statement. I think it is > wise to know that there could be legal consequences. Right or wrong. > > Also, why the language? > Patton > > -----Original Message----- > From: HoYo [mailto:hoyo@bellsouth.net] > Sent: Friday, July 20, 2001 10:07 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net; Patton Dickson > Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > > > OH! > well f*ck me!! > Threaten to sue me, or better yet F@#kING sue me! > Get in line!!spend your money& take your chances!! > from some one who bought a common MGC with dubious > documentation.......thank God i know the difference between a GT and a > 'Tourer' door!!and could explain it to the police in 1979!! oh! and it had > the ONLY Fram filter ever made for an MGC!!! a bit early, > HoHoHoYo > ps NO WONDER it's so fuckin' cheap I could afford it, > and i haven't worked since May '02!! H.L.Y. From Simonlachlan at aol.com From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'HoYo'" ; Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 05:31:25 EST Subject: Sad tale From Warthodson at aol.com From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'HoYo'" ; Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 08:57:45 EST Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay From "Larry Swift" From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'HoYo'" ; Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 09:18:45 -0500 Subject: Heat Shield & Gas Tank Color Also, I have an early BT7 that did not come equipped with the heat shield between the floor and the muffler. I am interested in retrofitting one and wonder if someone has a plan for the shield and could email it to me. Also, any advice on appropriate material to make it from would be helpful. Larry Swift From m.brouillette at comcast.net From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'HoYo'" ; Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 15:19:38 +0000 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Buyer beware I guess... From Alan Bromfield From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'HoYo'" ; Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 15:45:50 -0000 Subject: RE: Heat Shield & Gas Tank Color Check out Nimbus GII. http://www.aerotecheng.com/Nimbus.htm Excellent stuff - but not original by a long way. Used in modern car production to shield Cats and Turbos. Alan Bromfield - New Forest Austin Healey Centre. UK http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.bromfield/ I'm not a website developer as you will see.......... -----Original Message----- From: Larry Swift [mailto:mgtd51@adelphia.net] Sent: 21 November 2003 14:19 To: Healey Subject: Heat Shield & Gas Tank Color I have not been able to find the color for the gas tank. I assume it is painted the chassis color, but would like confirmation. Also, I have an early BT7 that did not come equipped with the heat shield between the floor and the muffler. I am interested in retrofitting one and wonder if someone has a plan for the shield and could email it to me. Also, any advice on appropriate material to make it from would be helpful. Larry Swift > Sorry about the rubbish below this line - I'm in work. ------------------------------------------- The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal attention of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract. ntl Group Limited From dkveuro at juno.com From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'HoYo'" ; Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 10:06:21 -0600 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay David ..........." UNQUOTE _________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________ He did not appear. I e mailed I was going to to be in Europe for three weeks and would be back on Nov 12th 03. I have emailed a few times since and once got a "return, not deliverable" from Mail Demon . My question is : What would my next step be to be fair to everyone? IE, those that bid very close to his and others who found out too late to bid called to see if it was still for sale. I cannot really offer it to anyone in particular as I feel that would not be fair to all interested parties including myself.. So, your opinions would be greatly appreciated. I have not included his e mail address here at this time. After all, there may be a ligitimate reason for his no-show Regards, Don. P.S......... 1961 VW Crew Cab. (Sold.) 1962 Tri-carb. (Not sold.) 1967 VW Bug. ( Project.) 1968 VW Bug. (Body only.) 1973 VW Type III Wagon. ( Repo.) 1982 VW Pick-up. (My daily .) 1987 Audi 5000S Turbo ( Repo' ) 1984 VW Vanagon. ( Parting out.) 1988 VW Vanagon. ( Rolled.) 1985 Audi 5000S ( Hit, front left.) 1992 MBZ 300e. (Sunday driver.) Etc Etc Etc.............So as you can see, I have too many other projects ! From Brian Mix From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'HoYo'" ; Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 08:33:01 -0800 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay First, no matter what, send the deadbeat bidder an e-mail starting what date you will re-list the car, and that you will report him to e-bay on that date. Make it about a week away. After that date. Report him, and re-list the car OR contact the other bidders directly. It is against the rules to offer them the car outside of e-bay, but I see it done all the time. It is perfectly fine to tell the bidders you put the car back up for action. Use your own judgement here. This will probably happen 2 or 3 times before you actually get money for the car. An unfortunate truth about high dollar e-bay sales. You can give him negative feedback but expect him to do the same making up some lie about his reason for not paying. I usually let it go. Also expect your eventual winner to try and lower the price once he see's the car, or ask for some money back after they receive it. This may be very clinical but it has been my experience, Brian At 08:06 AM 11/21/2003, you wrote: >Ladies and gentlemen, can I ask you all for a little help and information >? >My problem is as follows : Last September I put my '62 Tri-carb up for >auction on Ebay. I had very good response from this and eventually a >final bid. However, the winning bidder is not showing any signs of >reappearing to complete the contract to buy. I had assumed that a bid was >a 'contractual obligation' . >So, now I am wondering what would be the fairest thing to do, and >considering the enormous amount of total wisdom amongst our checkered >band of devotees, I approach you all first. >Briefly the story is as follows. .......I e mailed the bidder and he told >me, he would be in Dallas Tx the next week end. (See quoted text.) >------------------------------------------------------------------------- >------------------------------------------------------------------------- >-------------------------------------- >QUOTE........... >."..................Well , looks like I won the thing. I had my kid bid >on it for me while I was out. I should have told him the maximum to bid. >I end up paying almost three times more than I did for my other Tri carb >project, at least you have got that engine running and you seem to know >your stuff. I prefer cash as well, it is quick and straight forward. I am >coming from Florida and would be driving to pick your car up and another >project in Texas. If you are not available this weekend I can wait until >you are back. Please leave me your address. In the mean time, I will see >if I can get out to you before you fly to Europe this weekend. > >David ..........." > >UNQUOTE >_________________________________________________________________________ >______________________________________ > >He did not appear. I e mailed I was going to to be in Europe for three >weeks and would be back on Nov 12th 03. I have emailed a few times since >and once got a "return, not deliverable" from Mail Demon . > >My question is : What would my next step be to be fair to everyone? IE, >those that bid very close to his and others who found out too late to bid >called to see if it was still for sale. I cannot really offer it to >anyone in particular as I feel that would not be fair to all interested >parties including myself.. >So, your opinions would be greatly appreciated. >I have not included his e mail address here at this time. After all, >there may be a ligitimate reason for his no-show > >Regards, Don. > > >P.S......... > >1961 VW Crew Cab. (Sold.) >1962 Tri-carb. (Not sold.) >1967 VW Bug. ( Project.) >1968 VW Bug. (Body only.) >1973 VW Type III Wagon. ( Repo.) >1982 VW Pick-up. (My daily .) >1987 Audi 5000S Turbo ( Repo' ) >1984 VW Vanagon. ( Parting out.) >1988 VW Vanagon. ( Rolled.) >1985 Audi 5000S ( Hit, front left.) >1992 MBZ 300e. (Sunday driver.) >Etc Etc Etc.............So as you can see, I have too many other projects >! From stoney bennett From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'HoYo'" ; Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 09:09:55 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: 100 S forsale on ebay --------------------------------- Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now From "Ronald Yates" From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'HoYo'" ; Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 17:44:04 -0000 (PST) Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay The #3610 is one of the missing 100S cars. It came out of California and had some early California race history and is not painted the color the race history represents. This is not that car and I feel bad for those who have bid on the car and could potentialy own it believing the car is the real thing. Considering what I know about the car and what Mike has stated (below) . . . caveat emptor. Ron Yates > As an owner there are a few things that I can see from a quick look at > the photos, that really do not look quite right. > 1. The front shroud appears to have been produced from that of a 100 > without any effort having been taken to produce the extra fullness below > the grille. > 2. The engine has 2" carbs, not an unusual modification, but not > original. > 3. The front wheel hubs have 5 bolts, should be 4. > 4. The front caliper is off a Jag MkII (or similar) and the routing of > the brake pipes is all wrong ...sigh... > 5. The additional reinforcing around the front inner "A" arm supports > appears to be absent > 6. The radiator ducts are missing > 7. It has plastic covered wires in the harness, such sacrilege!! > 8. The distributor appears to be a Mallory (not original) > 9. The windshield is way to vertical, and far from the correct shape. > AND #10 The BIG one .....There is no flamin' oil cooler!!! > > But hey, it is an imitation and I'm flattered :-) > > The bonnet however, could be original, although it is not too hard to > stamp numbers in an alloy flange. > > Michael Salter > www.precisionsportscar.com From "Rich C" From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 13:14:32 -0500 Subject: Heat Shield & Gas Tank Color > I have not been able to find the color for the gas tank. I assume it is > painted the chassis color, but would like confirmation. > > Also, I have an early BT7 that did not come equipped with the heat shield > between the floor and the muffler. I am interested in retrofitting one and > wonder if someone has a plan for the shield and could email it to me. Also, > any advice on appropriate material to make it from would be helpful. > > Larry Swift From "Greg Lemon" From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 12:31:56 -0600 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Second, it is within e-bay policy to ask the next highest bidder to honor their bid if first bidder drops out. You mentioned a concern about being fair to other bidders, if second highest bidder on contact look like a promising prospect to buy the car, you might be better of going that route than taking your chances on the end price and unknown high bidder of the next auction. I would look at the bid history on the item and check feedback of the next high bidder first and go from there. Happy Healeying Greg Lemon 54 BN1 > Ladies and gentlemen, can I ask you all for a little help and information > ? > My problem is as follows : Last September I put my '62 Tri-carb up for > auction on Ebay. I had very good response from this and eventually a > final bid. However, the winning bidder is not showing any signs of > reappearing to complete the contract to buy. I had assumed that a bid was > a 'contractual obligation' . > So, now I am wondering what would be the fairest thing to do, and > considering the enormous amount of total wisdom amongst our checkered > band of devotees, I approach you all first. > Briefly the story is as follows. .......I e mailed the bidder and he told > me, he would be in Dallas Tx the next week end. (See quoted text.) > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > -------------------------------------- > QUOTE........... > ."..................Well , looks like I won the thing. I had my kid bid > on it for me while I was out. I should have told him the maximum to bid. > I end up paying almost three times more than I did for my other Tri carb > project, at least you have got that engine running and you seem to know > your stuff. I prefer cash as well, it is quick and straight forward. I am > coming from Florida and would be driving to pick your car up and another > project in Texas. If you are not available this weekend I can wait until > you are back. Please leave me your address. In the mean time, I will see > if I can get out to you before you fly to Europe this weekend. > > David ..........." > > UNQUOTE > _________________________________________________________________________ > ______________________________________ > > He did not appear. I e mailed I was going to to be in Europe for three > weeks and would be back on Nov 12th 03. I have emailed a few times since > and once got a "return, not deliverable" from Mail Demon . > > My question is : What would my next step be to be fair to everyone? IE, > those that bid very close to his and others who found out too late to bid > called to see if it was still for sale. I cannot really offer it to > anyone in particular as I feel that would not be fair to all interested > parties including myself.. > So, your opinions would be greatly appreciated. > I have not included his e mail address here at this time. After all, > there may be a ligitimate reason for his no-show > > Regards, Don. > > > P.S......... > > 1961 VW Crew Cab. (Sold.) > 1962 Tri-carb. (Not sold.) > 1967 VW Bug. ( Project.) > 1968 VW Bug. (Body only.) > 1973 VW Type III Wagon. ( Repo.) > 1982 VW Pick-up. (My daily .) > 1987 Audi 5000S Turbo ( Repo' ) > 1984 VW Vanagon. ( Parting out.) > 1988 VW Vanagon. ( Rolled.) > 1985 Audi 5000S ( Hit, front left.) > 1992 MBZ 300e. (Sunday driver.) > Etc Etc Etc.............So as you can see, I have too many other projects > ! From m.brouillette at comcast.net From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 18:46:44 +0000 Subject: How to request contact information on Ebay http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?UserInformationRequest p.s. Someone else brought up a good point. Try offering it to the 2nd person in line in the auction at their highest bid. You might sell it that way... From "Diann Jones" From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 08:48:28 +1300 Subject: Other Weld Nuts in the Trunk Area This question is for a BJ7 but also for a BJ8 - If the fuel tank is installed you can not see the actual nuts themselves. But if you look from the diff area - taking a measurement from the centre of the L/H fuel tank strap bottom nut, down 1 3/8" and out toward the left by 2 3/8" there is one threaded hole to receive a bolt with the weld nut in the trunk. Also taking a measurement from the centre of the R/H fuel tank strap bottom nut, down 1 3/8" and out toward the right by 2 3/8" there is another one. Would be interested to know what these weld nuts were intended to take? or what purpose they have? Regards Diann From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 13:56:55 -0600 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay It is interesting that the photo on MarkCooke's web site and the one on Precision sportscar site are "identical" Kind regards Ed m.brouillette@comcast.net wrote: > I have been contacted by Mark about this car. He has refered me to his website http://pwp.ibl.bm/~markcooke/austin told me to click on the 100S and all would be explained. It wasn't and I told him so... > > Buyer beware I guess... From Jorge Garcia From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 12:03:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: 1959 MGA drivetrain FS I have no interest in these parts just wanted to pass it along in case someone is interested. Regards Jorge 65 BJ8 --------------------------------- Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now From "R.J. Denton" From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 15:46:00 -0600 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay "M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote: > Hi Mark > > It is interesting that the photo on MarkCooke's web site and the one on Precision sportscar site are "identical" > > Kind regards > Ed > > m.brouillette@comcast.net wrote: > > > I have been contacted by Mark about this car. He has refered me to his website http://pwp.ibl.bm/~markcooke/austin told me to click on the 100S and all would be explained. It wasn't and I told him so... > > > > Buyer beware I guess... From "tom felts" From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 16:41:21 -0500 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > [Original Message] > From: R.J. Denton > To: M.E. & E.A. Driver > Cc: ; > Date: 11/21/03 3:40:36 PM > Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > > This is all starting to look like some of you have to find something productive to do. You have way too much time on your hands. > > "M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote: > > > Hi Mark > > > > It is interesting that the photo on MarkCooke's web site and the one on Precision sportscar site are "identical" > > > > Kind regards > > Ed > > > > m.brouillette@comcast.net wrote: > > > > > I have been contacted by Mark about this car. He has refered me to his website http://pwp.ibl.bm/~markcooke/austin told me to click on the 100S and all would be explained. It wasn't and I told him so... > > > > > > Buyer beware I guess... From "Michael Salter" From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 16:49:05 -0500 Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of M.E. & E.A. Driver Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 2:57 PM To: m.brouillette@comcast.net Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Hi Mark It is interesting that the photo on MarkCooke's web site and the one on Precision sportscar site are "identical" Kind regards Ed m.brouillette@comcast.net wrote: > I have been contacted by Mark about this car. He has refered me to his website http://pwp.ibl.bm/~markcooke/austin told me to click on the 100S and all would be explained. It wasn't and I told him so... > > Buyer beware I guess... From "Chuck Endicott" From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 17:06:15 -0500 Subject: A couple of Bugeyes I recently just joined the list and have a 60 Bugeye project car, ANL32320. It's been modified a bit and right now I'm stripping away the 6 coats of paint (and Bondo) to see what's really there. Anyhow, I wanted to let you know that there are 2 Bugeyes for sale on www.privatesellersusa.com Ad numbers 4730903 & 4730904. Chuck From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 17:22:33 -0500 Subject: Great Day From "Peter Linn" From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 08:46:07 +1000 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay http://www.austin-healey-club.ch/notice_board.htm but clearly not - although this looks like it might be a better bet - and it's described as a replica! Peter Linn Brisbane BN! Ward Spl coupe ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom felts" To: "R.J. Denton" ; "M.E. & E.A. Driver" Cc: ; Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2003 7:41 AM Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > I find it very informative. > > > > [Original Message] > > From: R.J. Denton > > To: M.E. & E.A. Driver > > Cc: ; > > Date: 11/21/03 3:40:36 PM > > Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > > > > This is all starting to look like some of you have to find something > productive to do. You have way too much time on your hands. > > > > "M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote: > > > > > Hi Mark > > > > > > It is interesting that the photo on MarkCooke's web site and the one on > Precision sportscar site are "identical" > > > > > > Kind regards > > > Ed > > > > > > m.brouillette@comcast.net wrote: > > > > > > > I have been contacted by Mark about this car. He has refered me to > his website http://pwp.ibl.bm/~markcooke/austin told me to click on the > 100S and all would be explained. It wasn't and I told him so... > > > > > > > > Buyer beware I guess... > . From "tom felts" From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 18:25:48 -0500 Subject: FW: RE: Great Day Tom > > > > [Original Message] > > From: Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool > > To: Healey > > Date: 11/21/03 5:26:14 PM > > Subject: Great Day > > > > Hi Everyone > > Just to let you know it was a great day in the poconos in PA about 60 > > degrees and sunny. Had my 100-M out for about three hours of great driving > > around the back roads here. Something that is uncommon as the weather > > usally prevents it. My brother is in from LA and we had a great time > > reliving our youth in the Healey. Who knows maybe someday we will find so > > other fountain of youth besides the Healey. Just to let everyone know we > > are still Healeying in PA > > Terry From Jerry Wall From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 17:38:59 -0600 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay From Awgertoo at aol.com From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 18:50:12 EST Subject: Re: FW: RE: Great Day > Not in the Healey today, but in the E-Type------top down, bright sun, in > the 70's-----what more could you ask for Pittsburgh in Nov? > Today was a tough Healey day in Maryland. I had to drive about 60 miles up to BWI airport to get the speedometer drive repaired. The trip up required gloves and jacket--the drive back was absolutely glorious. Ah, the trials of Healey ownership.....Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans From Blue One Hundred From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 16:55:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: Bad Ebay Auction It would be perfectly fair to offer it to the next highest bidder at the price he bid. Relisting the car, in fact, would probably be somewhat unfair to those who bid on the car in good faith while the auction was running. Don't even waste your time waiting for this putz that is obviously backing out of the deal. Report him to ebay and he'll have his account removed. Good Luck, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- dkveuro@juno.com wrote: > Ladies and gentlemen, can I ask you all for a little > help and information > ? > My problem is as follows : Last September I put my > '62 Tri-carb up for > auction on Ebay. I had very good response from this > and eventually a > final bid. However, the winning bidder is not > showing any signs of > reappearing to complete the contract to buy. I had > assumed that a bid was > a 'contractual obligation' . > So, now I am wondering what would be the fairest > thing to do, and > considering the enormous amount of total wisdom > amongst our checkered > band of devotees, I approach you all first. > Briefly the story is as follows. .......I e mailed > the bidder and he told > me, he would be in Dallas Tx the next week end. (See > quoted text.) > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > -------------------------------------- > QUOTE........... > ."..................Well , looks like I won the > thing. I had my kid bid > on it for me while I was out. I should have told him > the maximum to bid. > I end up paying almost three times more than I did > for my other Tri carb > project, at least you have got that engine running > and you seem to know > your stuff. I prefer cash as well, it is quick and > straight forward. I am > coming from Florida and would be driving to pick > your car up and another > project in Texas. If you are not available this > weekend I can wait until > you are back. Please leave me your address. In the > mean time, I will see > if I can get out to you before you fly to Europe > this weekend. > > David ..........." > > UNQUOTE > _________________________________________________________________________ > ______________________________________ > > He did not appear. I e mailed I was going to to be > in Europe for three > weeks and would be back on Nov 12th 03. I have > emailed a few times since > and once got a "return, not deliverable" from Mail > Demon . > > My question is : What would my next step be to be > fair to everyone? IE, > those that bid very close to his and others who > found out too late to bid > called to see if it was still for sale. I cannot > really offer it to > anyone in particular as I feel that would not be > fair to all interested > parties including myself.. > So, your opinions would be greatly appreciated. > I have not included his e mail address here at this > time. After all, > there may be a ligitimate reason for his no-show > > Regards, Don. > > > P.S......... > > 1961 VW Crew Cab. (Sold.) > 1962 Tri-carb. (Not sold.) > 1967 VW Bug. ( Project.) > 1968 VW Bug. (Body only.) > 1973 VW Type III Wagon. ( Repo.) > 1982 VW Pick-up. (My daily .) > 1987 Audi 5000S Turbo ( Repo' ) > 1984 VW Vanagon. ( Parting out.) > 1988 VW Vanagon. ( Rolled.) > 1985 Audi 5000S ( Hit, front left.) > 1992 MBZ 300e. (Sunday driver.) > Etc Etc Etc.............So as you can see, I have > too many other projects > ! From Brian N From: "Larry Swift" To: "Healey" Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 17:57:36 -0800 Subject: I was wrong... FWIW. Brian N. From "HoYo" From: "HoYo" To: ; Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 01:04:19 -0500 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > OH HELL, > i guess you'll be the FIRST one SUED!! > guess i better tell my bride not to get it for my Christmas > present. ;^*) Lemme go see if my lawyer's in.She owes me some money. > HoYo > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 10:19 AM > Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > > > > I have been contacted by Mark about this car. He has refered me to his > website http://pwp.ibl.bm/~markcooke/austin told me to click on the 100S > and all would be explained. It wasn't and I told him so... > > > > Buyer beware I guess... From "HoYo" From: "HoYo" To: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" ; Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 01:08:41 -0500 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > I think I recall seeing that photo either on some factory literature or in > one of the "Healey" books. Must not be copyrighted or someone's "libel" to > get sued!!! > "in a litigious mood", > HoYo > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" > To: > Cc: > Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 2:56 PM > Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > > > > Hi Mark > > > > It is interesting that the photo on MarkCooke's web site and the one on > Precision sportscar site are "identical" > > > > Kind regards > > Ed > > > > > > m.brouillette@comcast.net wrote: > > > > > I have been contacted by Mark about this car. He has refered me to his > website http://pwp.ibl.bm/~markcooke/austin told me to click on the 100S > and all would be explained. It wasn't and I told him so... > > > > > > Buyer beware I guess... From "HoYo" From: "HoYo" To: "R.J. Denton" ; "M.E. & E.A. Driver" Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 01:10:27 -0500 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > Hey R.J., > Are you hiring?? > HoYo > ps i gotta drive from 5p-1am so i'll be leaving the hunt........been in bed > w/a cold all week,cabin fever..... > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "R.J. Denton" > To: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" > Cc: ; > Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 4:46 PM > Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > > > > This is all starting to look like some of you have to find something > productive to do. You have way too much time on your hands. > > > > "M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote: > > > > > Hi Mark > > > > > > It is interesting that the photo on MarkCooke's web site and the one on > Precision sportscar site are "identical" > > > > > > Kind regards > > > Ed > > > > > > m.brouillette@comcast.net wrote: > > > > > > > I have been contacted by Mark about this car. He has refered me to > his website http://pwp.ibl.bm/~markcooke/austin told me to click on the > 100S and all would be explained. It wasn't and I told him so... > > > > > > > > Buyer beware I guess... From "HoYo" From: "HoYo" To: "R.J. Denton" ; "M.E. & E.A. Driver" Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 01:35:54 -0500 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > Hey R.J., > Are you hiring?? > HoYo > ps i gotta drive from 5p-1am so i'll be leaving the hunt........been in bed > w/a cold all week,cabin fever..... > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "R.J. Denton" > To: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" > Cc: ; > Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 4:46 PM > Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > > > > This is all starting to look like some of you have to find something > productive to do. You have way too much time on your hands. > > > > "M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote: > > > > > Hi Mark > > > > > > It is interesting that the photo on MarkCooke's web site and the one on > Precision sportscar site are "identical" > > > > > > Kind regards > > > Ed > > > > > > m.brouillette@comcast.net wrote: > > > > > > > I have been contacted by Mark about this car. He has refered me to > his website http://pwp.ibl.bm/~markcooke/austin told me to click on the > 100S and all would be explained. It wasn't and I told him so... > > > > > > > > Buyer beware I guess... From "HoYo" From: "HoYo" To: "R.J. Denton" ; "M.E. & E.A. Driver" Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 08:24:16 -0500 Subject: Fw: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay From HealeyRic2 at aol.com From: "HoYo" To: "R.J. Denton" ; "M.E. & E.A. Driver" Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 09:53:16 EST Subject: Re: Fw: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Happy Healeying, Rick In a message dated 11/22/03 10:26:32 AM, hoyo@bellsouth.net writes: << Nope ! this replica has the 100/S grill emblem ,although it could have > fallen off in transit!! ;?*) > HoYo>> From "HoYo" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 09:08:47 -0500 Subject: Re: Fw: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > C'mon Howard, quit being so obvious. You're just trying to keep the price > down so you can snipe in at the end of the auction with a low-ball bid and be > driving a 100S or 100s, as part of the ad says, on New Year's Day. :-) > > Happy Healeying, > Rick > > > In a message dated 11/22/03 10:26:32 AM, hoyo@bellsouth.net writes: > > << Nope ! this replica has the 100/S grill emblem ,although it could have > > > fallen off in transit!! ;?*) > > > HoYo>> From Genski434 at aol.com From: To: ; Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 10:09:11 EST Subject: Test, no Healey content From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." From: To: ; Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 15:10:47 -0500 Subject: Fw: 100s on EBAY "Chassis# AHS 3601 Body# 79 Color Black Trim Red Sold to Austin, New Zealand Owner then Vickery Motors Original reg# 408-032 Owner now Written Off N.Z.1962, Reconstructed 1992 By Murray Wells State NSW Country Australia Races Extensively Raced By All Except Egden History Written Off 1962,New Car Built Around Engine & Grill 1992 " From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." From: To: ; Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 15:10:07 -0500 Subject: 100s on EBAY From "Alex" From: To: ; Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 16:45:43 -0500 Subject: RE: FW: RE: Great Day == Alex in Maine 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie" Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8 Amateur Radio AI2Q http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm .-.-. -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 6:50 PM To: tomfelts@earthlink.net Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: FW: RE: Great Day In a message dated 11/21/2003 6:32:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, tomfelts@earthlink.net writes: > Not in the Healey today, but in the E-Type------top down, bright sun, in > the 70's-----what more could you ask for Pittsburgh in Nov? > Today was a tough Healey day in Maryland. I had to drive about 60 miles up to BWI airport to get the speedometer drive repaired. The trip up required gloves and jacket--the drive back was absolutely glorious. Ah, the trials of Healey ownership.....Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans From "James Lea" From: To: ; Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 18:10:07 -0500 Subject: Re: FW: RE: Great Day James Lea Rockport Maine 1962 BT7 II From Jerry Wall From: To: ; Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 17:15:47 -0600 Subject: Re: 100s on EBAY From Randy Hicks From: To: ; Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 18:48:45 -0800 Subject: FW: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay If anyone were going to bid on this car, I would suggest that they first check with the FIA who may just have some history on this car. Randy Hicks '56 100M (a real one) ------ End of Forwarded Message From Brian N From: To: ; Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 17:36:21 -0800 Subject: Does AHCUSA Have a grille badge? Thanks for your help. Brian http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg From Pat & Gary Rice From: To: ; Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 18:04:35 -0800 Subject: RE: Healey Sighting Santa Monica From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" From: To: ; Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 18:17:42 -0800 Subject: Re: Does AHCUSA Have a grille badge? Even as we speak, I'm working on getting an Austin-Healey Club USA merchandise order page up. Should be ready ADN (any day now...) Here's the info on the car badge: A beautiful five-color and chrome car badge of the original Austin-Healey Club Crest - our insignia - one of the best-looking club crests ever designed. First appeared in the British Motor Corporation's Safety Fast magazine in 1961. Member price: $19.00 Until I complete the order page, you can contact Jerry Wall, AHCUSA Vice-President, with your ordering information: Jerry Wall PO Box 45332 Dallas TX 75245 jerryw at healey dot org By the way, I like your main website graphic. Do you have it silk screened on shirts for sale? Brad Weldon Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA http://www.healey.org/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian N" To: Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2003 5:36 PM Subject: Does AHCUSA Have a grille badge? > Having joined both clubs, I though a badge from each on the badge bar > would be appropriate. But I don't find any info on the AHCUSA website > for such a badge. I already bought the AHCA badge. Cool looking, too! > > Thanks for your help. > > Brian > http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg From "Chris Dimmock" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 14:02:41 +1100 Subject: Re: Healey Sighting Santa Monica : ) Absolutely - it wasn't me. It couldn't have been - I'm in Australia. And I'd appreciate it if you didn't tell my wife about the female passenger - she probably wouldn't believe my alibi.... Chris Sydney Australia Ivory over black BJ8 - 'the black & white car' ______________________________________ Chris Dimmock Sydney Australia http://www.myaustinhealey.com ______________________________________ IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with no sense of humour or irrational religious or environmental beliefs. If you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pat & Gary Rice" To: "Austin Healey list" ; Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 1:04 PM Subject: RE: Healey Sighting Santa Monica > Listers, A white with black side panels, 100-6 or 3000, Male driver, female > passenger was seen traveling in a Southerly direction on Neilson Way only a > few blocks from the Santa Monica Pier. Around 2:30 P.M. Sat., Nov. 22. Top > was down even though air temps cooler than normal. Clear down to low 60's. > Was it someone on this list? I was going opposite way in my Red Grand Prix. > Gary Rice > 61 HBT7L > Ventura From Jerry Wall From: To: ; Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 23:09:14 -0600 Subject: Re: Does AHCUSA Have a grille badge? From "Reid Trummel" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 07:27:19 +0000 Subject: Re: Does AHCUSA Have a grille badge? Your "New Member Packet" (assuming that you have already received it) included a Merchandise Order Form that included the Club Crest Car Badge. In any case they are available from Jerry Wall, VP (check his contact info on page 4 of any issue of AH Magazine). Meantime, take a look here for a good look at the crest/badge, and a little history: http://www.healey.org/crest.shtml Reid Reid Trummel Portland, Oregon 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master >Brian N wrote: > Having joined both clubs, I though a badge from each on the badge bar > would be appropriate. But I don't find any info on the AHCUSA website > for such a badge. I already bought the AHCA badge. Cool looking, too! > Thanks for your help. > Brian > http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg _________________________________________________________________ Gift-shop online from the comfort of home at MSN Shopping! No crowds, free parking. http://shopping.msn.com From pdeturck at rochester.rr.com From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 08:24:01 -0500 Subject: fire extinguisher 10BC? Halon? Transmission tunnel, behind the seat, under the dash? Metal bracket, or velcro fasteners? Not racing --- just keeping the extinguisher accessible for safety and shows. -pd- 66 BJ8 From "tom felts" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 08:44:00 -0500 Subject: RE: Does AHCUSA Have a grille badge? Regards Tom > [Original Message] > From: Brian N > To: > Date: 11/22/03 8:37:14 PM > Subject: Does AHCUSA Have a grille badge? > > Having joined both clubs, I though a badge from each on the badge bar > would be appropriate. But I don't find any info on the AHCUSA website > for such a badge. I already bought the AHCA badge. Cool looking, too! > > Thanks for your help. From "tom felts" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 08:47:55 -0500 Subject: RE: Healey Sighting Santa Monica High 60's here in Pittsburgh yesterday and will be today. Top down (as usual) and lots of driving. Best do it now, because just around the corner ------I hate to think about it. Tom > [Original Message] > From: Pat & Gary Rice > To: Austin Healey list ; > Date: 11/22/03 9:09:13 PM > Subject: RE: Healey Sighting Santa Monica > > Listers, A white with black side panels, 100-6 or 3000, Male driver, female > passenger was seen traveling in a Southerly direction on Neilson Way only a > few blocks from the Santa Monica Pier. Around 2:30 P.M. Sat., Nov. 22. Top > was down even though air temps cooler than normal. Clear down to low 60's. > Was it someone on this list? I was going opposite way in my Red Grand Prix. > Gary Rice > 61 HBT7L > Ventura From Joe Armour From: To: ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 00:45:39 +1000 Subject: Is it for real? title the original engine and other parts from the original car but no chassis. The car was reconstructed using a 100 chassis by S. Pike who also restored the other car AHS3802 .This was no great secret and was well documented in the Australian club scene and motoring circles. AS Australia has several world experts on the 100S, one club member working with Geoff to document and save a lot of records when Healeys closed down. At one stage we had approx. half known 100S cars as no one valued them and several were saved from all over the USA where they were butchered with V8's. The US was relatively late in recognising and restoring 100S Healeys. This is one of the very good reasons that I am a member of several of the clubs so that I can enjoy the information contained in their various magazines rather than living in a small world down under. A healthy exchange between the various clubs and an open mind to what others may know will always increase the general knowledge of the remaining Healeys and their history. AHS3601 was sold from Australia and therefore I cannot vouch for its current status but at the time it was reconstructed it seemed like a good outcome for the remaining parts. Everybody knows when it is the original car and when it is a replica the question remains "when does one become the other?" Joe 2 originals!! From Jerry Wall From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 09:26:46 -0600 Subject: Re: Healey Sighting Santa Monica ps. have to be back in time for the NTAHC xmas party on the 7th. tom felts wrote: > > Clear down to the low 60's? Really that low?:) And to think they had the > top down!:):):) > > High 60's here in Pittsburgh yesterday and will be today. Top down (as > usual) and lots of driving. Best do it now, because just around the corner > ------I hate to think about it. > > Tom > > > > [Original Message] > > From: Pat & Gary Rice > > To: Austin Healey list ; > > Date: 11/22/03 9:09:13 PM > > Subject: RE: Healey Sighting Santa Monica > > > > Listers, A white with black side panels, 100-6 or 3000, Male driver, > female > > passenger was seen traveling in a Southerly direction on Neilson Way only > a > > few blocks from the Santa Monica Pier. Around 2:30 P.M. Sat., Nov. 22. > Top > > was down even though air temps cooler than normal. Clear down to low > 60's. > > Was it someone on this list? I was going opposite way in my Red Grand > Prix. > > Gary Rice > > 61 HBT7L > > Ventura From "Alex" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 11:23:39 -0500 Subject: RE: FW: RE: Great Day Happy Thanksgiving James. == Alex -----Original Message----- From: James Lea [mailto:clocks@midcoast.com] Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2003 6:10 PM To: Alex; Awgertoo@aol.com; tomfelts@earthlink.net Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: FW: RE: Great Day Alex. Hood and side curtains? I just put on another layer and drove up to Liberty and back. Temperature at 52 F. What a day!!!! JL James Lea Rockport Maine 1962 BT7 II From "HoYo" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 10:27:15 -0600 Subject: Friday's joke,2 days & a coupla yrs. late....... From Earl Kagna From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 12:11:18 -0800 Subject: Re: fire extinguisher I would check with the fire authorities in your area to see what is legal / illegal. My understanding is that halon is a no - no in most areas now. Too bad, because it is said to be much less damaging to the wiring and soft trim if it has to be used. Something called halitron seems to be a substitute. As to mounting locations, BJ8's are a bit more difficult than all of the earlier Healeys because of the console. Your criteria should be the ease with which you can grab it for use if you are still in the drivers seat if the unthinkeable happens, God forbid. All kinds of ideas have been tried and used by Healey owners. I have mine mounted to a simple wood block with a couple of hardware store 90 degree brackets that hook over the front of the seat bottom edge and are retained with the seat cushion itself. This puts the unit about as close to me as it can be if an emergency situation occurs. It also has the advantage of sliding with the seat when it's adjusted forward or aft - it's always where it's supposed to be! It's a bit of a fiddle to get it so that you can still get to the seat adjuster, but it can be done. No holes drilled in the car, either! Just one of the ways to do it. Earl Kagna Victoria, B. C. Canada '62 BT7 tri-carb '67 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 5:24 AM Subject: fire extinguisher Are there recommended methods or perhaps regulations for types, mountings and locations for a fire extinguisher in a BJ8? 10BC? Halon? Transmission tunnel, behind the seat, under the dash? Metal bracket, or velcro fasteners? Not racing --- just keeping the extinguisher accessible for safety and shows. -pd- 66 BJ8 From CAWS52803 at aol.com From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 15:35:10 EST Subject: For Sale - Silver 3000 - $9. From "Marge and/or Len" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 13:17:17 -0800 Subject: Re: Friday's joke,2 days & a coupla yrs. late....... Where would we be without mothers? Inconceivable! Author Unknown (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "HoYo" To: Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 8:27 AM Subject: Friday's joke,2 days & a coupla yrs. late....... > > > FAMOUS QUOTATIONS > > > > > > What would men be without women? > > > Scarce, sir ... mighty scarce. > > > ~Mark Twain From Dave & Marlene From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 14:24:12 -0700 Subject: Re: fire extinguisher I would be interested to know in what location in the car is a fire most likely to occur. Under the bonnet, in the boot, in the cockpit? My experience with other cars - not Healey, is that unless a collision is involved most fires are in the engine. I don't know what happens when a Healey is involved in a rear end crash. Any experience out there? Dave Russell BN2 pdeturck@rochester.rr.com wrote: > Are there recommended methods or perhaps > regulations for types, mountings and locations > for a fire extinguisher in a BJ8? > > 10BC? Halon? > Transmission tunnel, behind the seat, under the dash? > Metal bracket, or velcro fasteners? > > Not racing --- just keeping the extinguisher > accessible for safety and shows. > > -pd- > 66 BJ8 From Ron Fine From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 15:06:11 -0800 Subject: Torque Wrench From "tom felts" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 18:52:59 -0500 Subject: Re: Healey Sighting Santa Monica Can you tell me anything about the car you will be looking at--would be interesting to see if I know the car. tom > [Original Message] > From: Jerry Wall > To: ; > Date: 11/23/03 10:27:47 AM > Subject: Re: Healey Sighting Santa Monica > > hi tom, > i'm flying into pittsburgh early dec to inspect a bj7 and, if as represented, drive it back to dallas for it's new owner. see if you can keep the decent weather around for another 10 days or so. our gorgeous mid 70's weather of yesterday has deteriorated into rainy cool 50's today. From OldHealeys at aol.com From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 19:41:40 EST Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay As an Ex owner and racer of a REAL 100S there are lots of little things that you notice when you get a car ready to race. You know the engine, chassis, suspension, and interior and some small things that I will not mention. On viewing Mr. Cooke's car ... the engine was a built up with incorrect parts. Numerous features of a real 100S were missing. The chassis was incorrect in a number of small ways, and some major ones. I do not remember what I saw on the suspension. The interior was terrible. Not even a good fake. I was so angered that such a car was represented as a 100S that I notified the Race Stewards and tried to get it removed from the paddock. FAKE! FAKE! FAKE, and not a good one. Bill Emerson 100S Number AHR 3808 Owner for years From joe mulqueen From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 16:52:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: oil pan repair __________________________________ Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now http://companion.yahoo.com/ From "Bob Spidell" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 16:53:55 -0800 Subject: Re: Torque Wrench Sears sells fine torque wrenches and regularly puts them on sale. You can get them for under $60US with a Craftsmen's Club card. I have three: 1/2" drive 20-150 ft-lb 3/8" drive 10-75 ft-lb 3/8" drive 25-250 in-lb For less than $150 you can get the 1/2" and the larger 3/8", which will cover just about everything you need. Theoretically, the 3/8" in-lb wrench range overlaps with the 1/2", but the higher range 3/8" comes in handy sometimes because it's shorter than the 1/2". If you only get one get the 1/2", which is suitable for most engine work. FWIW, we had a Sears wrench calibrated for aircraft work and it was spot-on. bs ******************************************** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M ******************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Fine" To: "Healey List" ; Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 3:06 PM Subject: Torque Wrench > I need to buy an new torque wrench to work on my Healey and MGB. My old > one was a cheap one that gave up the ghost a long time ago. Any > suggestions? The torque wrenches I've seen can be divided into 3/8 inch > and 1/2 inch drive and between low torque range and higher torque range. > All are at least $150.00. Because of the anticipate cost I would like > to get as universal a wrench as possible to cover most or all of the > applications I will need it for in rebuilding my engines. Any > suggestions would be greatly appreciated. > Ron > 61 BN7 > 66 MGB From Brian N From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 17:12:08 -0800 Subject: Re: oil pan repair Sounds like the pan on my BT7. Done by a PO. Doesn't leak, but sure is ugly! I am sure a good welder/fabricator could do a better job than on my car. The problem with the aluminum pan is they are much more difficult to repair. And there is no certainty it won't get hit again! Just some thoughts. Brian N http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg From "Ron Davies" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 17:33:44 -0800 Subject: RE: oil pan repair I just went through this a few months ago. I bought a new aluminum from AH Spares I think and it is working out great. It has cooling fins, a little better clearance, appears very strong and rugged and fits fine, no leaks. If I did it again I would surely do it with the car up on a lift. Ron 67 BJ8 Check the archives for details Subject: oil pan repair Hello, I just scrubbed down my bashed 3000 oil pan to see what repairs it needs. From Awgertoo at aol.com From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 20:59:06 EST Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > The car on E-Bay is a FAKE 100S! And the high bid is now $57.5. Best--Michael From Blue One Hundred From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 18:25:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: fire extinguisher Halon in general is the preferred fire extiguisher for a classic car (standard BC and ABC extiquishers will leave baking powder stains all over your car). The downside of a Halon extinguisher is, pound for pound, it only has about half the fire fighting capacity of a standard extinguisher. If you decide to get a halon extinguisher, I suggest you buy direct from these guys: www.h3r.com They have SEVERAL different choices for Halon, Halotron and other special extinguishers... and the prices are ok, but still expensive. Probably the ideal set up is to carry two extinguishers in the car, 1 small halon to carry in the passenger compartment somewhere (probably under the dash, hidden) - this provides easy access if you do have a fire. If the Halon isn't enough to put out the fire then you would want to have a standard 10BC carried as a spare in the trunk. This may sound a bit off, but I carry my spare in the cubby hole between the gas tank and the rear shroud - I figure if someone rear ends me hard, then there will be a good chance if the gas tank is ruptured, the extinguisher will rupture as well. For your BJ8 you could probably strap the extinguisher to the steering column, put it under the heater core, or possibly hide it in the pedal box hole on the passenger side if the extinguisher is small enough. Regards, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 PS my old MGB engine caught fire once, thank goodness I carried a fire extinguisher... saved me $$$, and I drove the car immediately after I put the fire out! > pdeturck@rochester.rr.com wrote: > > Are there recommended methods or perhaps > > regulations for types, mountings and locations > > for a fire extinguisher in a BJ8? > > > > 10BC? Halon? > > Transmission tunnel, behind the seat, under the > dash? > > Metal bracket, or velcro fasteners? > > > > Not racing --- just keeping the extinguisher > > accessible for safety and shows. > > > > -pd- > > 66 BJ8 From SMickel950 at aol.com From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 21:42:35 EST Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Steve M. In a message dated 11/23/2003 6:02:26 PM Pacific Standard Time, Awgertoo@aol.com writes: > In a message dated 11/23/2003 7:43:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, > OldHealeys@aol.com writes: > > >The car on E-Bay is a FAKE 100S! > > And the high bid is now $57.5. > > Best--Michael From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 20:43:43 -0500 Subject: new model Healey From Blue One Hundred From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 19:19:27 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Is it for real? Well, heck, at the end of the day probably most of the classic cars out there worth more than $100K and 50 years or older are probably built with more than 50% reconstructed materials! I figure you must have the original if you have the title (and no one else claims the chassis #), key parts (like the motor, ideally), and a car that every attempt to preserve the original look, feel and structure as possible has been made. If an owner of one of these cars feels that cutting corners is ok (particularly with major stuff like body, chassis, and mechanics, like we saw on eby ) , then more chances than not it won't be viewed as authentic - you cut one corner... you'll cut a 1,000 corners. At the end of the day, seems like the appropriate thing to do is for the 100S registry to create an official certificate, similar to the BMIHT cert, endorsed by the major Healey clubs in UK, Australia and US. Probably the best way to prevent fraud of this sort in the future. Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Joe Armour wrote: > AHS 3601 was involved in a fatal crash in New > Zealand and scrapped with > only a few parts being salvaged. One person from > N.Z. that already > owned a 100S purchased the remaining parts and the > title. This meant he, > > title the original engine and other parts from the > original car but no > chassis. The car was reconstructed using a 100 > chassis by S. Pike who > also restored the other car AHS3802 .This was no > great secret and was > well documented in the Australian club scene and > motoring circles. AS > Australia has several world experts on the 100S, one > club member working > > with Geoff to document and save a lot of records > when Healeys closed > down. At one stage we had approx. half known 100S > cars as no one valued > them and several were saved from all over the USA > where they were > butchered with V8's. The US was relatively late in > recognising and > restoring 100S Healeys. > This is one of the very good reasons that I am a > member of several of > the clubs so that I can enjoy the information > contained in their various > > magazines rather than living in a small world down > under. A healthy > exchange between the various clubs and an open mind > to what others may > know will always increase the general knowledge of > the remaining Healeys > > and their history. > AHS3601 was sold from Australia and therefore I > cannot vouch for its > current status but at the time it was reconstructed > it seemed like a > good outcome for the remaining parts. > Everybody knows when it is the original car and when > it is a replica the > > question remains "when does one become the other?" > > Joe > 2 originals!! From dicksonr at uwm.edu From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 21:39:41 -0600 Subject: RE: oil pan repair some strange reason was not. I carefully ground the old brass out and then I tried welding the bottom of the pans with my MIG welder for hours to no avail. It still leaked. I then decided to repair the pan with silver solder (I do not yet have an Oxy- acetalene torch for brazing) with a MAPP gas torch. This worked fine. I then coated the inside of the pan with gas tank sealer and the outside with JB weld and shaped it to the original contours just like body putty. I tested the pan after each stage of sealing and it held fine. Thus, I should have double protection if one leak protection system fails. If this does not work I will try to cut off the bottom inch and reweld a new bottom on. Or maybe just get a new aluminum pan. Randy Dickson Healey Archaeologist 63 BJ-7 Quoting Ron Davies : > Joe: > > I just went through this a few months ago. I bought a new aluminum from AH > Spares I think and it is working out great. > It has cooling fins, a little better clearance, appears very strong and > rugged and fits fine, no leaks. If I did it again I would surely do it with > the car up on a lift. > Ron > 67 BJ8 > Check the archives for details > > > > Subject: oil pan repair > > > Hello, > I just scrubbed down my bashed 3000 oil pan to see > what repairs it needs. From WilKo at aol.com From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 23:11:16 EST Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20Is=20this=20for=20real=3F=A0=20100S=20up=20?= Where do you draw the line? From "Greg Lemon" From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 22:30:00 -0600 Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_Is_this_for_real=3F=A0_100S_up_for_sale_on_Ebay?= Greg Lemon 54 BN1 (no claim to rarity M, S, etc) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 10:11 PM Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > There are countless cars out there in the vintage circles that are built up > with all new bodies and only have an engine and a number plate and few other > bits that were original. > > > Where do you draw the line? From Brian N From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 20:49:09 -0800 Subject: Re: new model Healey From Pat & Gary Rice From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 21:34:55 -0800 Subject: RE: 3000 Gear Lever From Pat & Gary Rice From: To: ; Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 21:58:05 -0800 Subject: RE: Healey Sighting Santa Monica From "HoYo" From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 00:09:31 -0600 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > The car on E-Bay is a FAKE 100S! It is a poor fake!! Somehow it was entered > at Goodwood in 2001 where I saw it. > > As an Ex owner and racer of a REAL 100S there are lots of little things that > you notice when you get a car ready to race. You know the engine, chassis, > suspension, and interior and some small things that I will not mention. > > On viewing Mr. Cooke's car ... the engine was a built up with incorrect > parts. Numerous features of a real 100S were missing. The chassis was incorrect in > a number of small ways, and some major ones. I do not remember what I saw on > the suspension. The interior was terrible. Not even a good fake. I was so > angered that such a car was represented as a 100S that I notified the Race > Stewards and tried to get it removed from the paddock. > > FAKE! FAKE! FAKE, and not a good one. > > Bill Emerson > 100S Number AHR 3808 Owner for years From "HoYo" From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 00:13:21 -0600 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > In a message dated 11/23/2003 7:43:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, > OldHealeys@aol.com writes: > > > The car on E-Bay is a FAKE 100S! > > And the high bid is now $57.5. > > Best--Michael From WilKo at aol.com From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 01:27:33 EST Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20Is=20this=20for=20real=3F=A0=20100S=20up=20?= > BLUE LIGHT SPECIAL!!! > HoYo > Lobelia blue-light special. HA! From Tracy Drummond From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 04:45:01 -0800 Subject: Re: oil pan repair You might consider an alloy sump. The best deal going that I know of is from AH Spares of England. I ordered the sump and a few small parts which brought the total even with shipping to about that of Moss and was very happy. I think it was about 150$-175$ compared to the 300$ that moss gets. My sump was in similar shape to what you described. Sounds like your car is coming together. Hope to see it and meet you this upcoming summer. Tracy 60BT7 joe mulqueen wrote: >Hello, >I just scrubbed down my bashed 3000 oil pan to see >what repairs it needs. Its bottom looks like it was >already beat back into shape a few times. There're >also pin holes from acid sludge (this engine sat for >20+ yrs) plus a light rust over the rest of the >interior. I'm thinking of having someone cut off the >bottom and blend in new metal. Anyone do this? While >at it I might add the original "Healey skidplate" >modification. Or maybe I should simply buy an >aluminum pan.... >Cheers, >Joe Mulqueen >'60 BT7 >Torrance, CA > >__________________________________ >Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now >http://companion.yahoo.com/ From "tom felts" From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 08:20:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Actually, it would be nice to drive/own one that looked and sounded like an S as long as everyone knew it wasn't a real one. Take the Cobra's for example. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: OldHealeys@aol.com;greylinn@ozemail.com.au;tomfelts@earthlink.net;foxriverkid@earthlink.net;edriver@sasktel.net Cc: m.brouillette@comcast.net; healeys@autox.team.net Sent: 11/23/03 8:59:08 PM Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay In a message dated 11/23/2003 7:43:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, OldHealeys@aol.com writes: The car on E-Bay is a FAKE 100S! And the high bid is now $57.5. Best--Michael From Genski434 at aol.com From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 08:21:31 EST Subject: Engine paint The engine color on my 53 100/4 project car has blue paint on the engine. To the best of knowledge I estimate production # 975 or so, slightly under 1000. I have read that only a few of the early cars had blue colored engines, so few, that there is no original color blue that can be found today. Question : Is it worth it to keep the orginal blue color of this motor during restoration? And if so,, any recommendations on obtaining this early "blue engine paint" (or something equal to it)? As always, thanks in advance as this "List" is great and I appreciate your responses. Gene K 53 100/4 in process From "tom felts" From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 08:23:42 -0500 Subject: Re: fire extinguisher From "Freese, Ken" From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 07:19:09 -0800 Subject: fake 100S s/n 3610 From dkveuro at juno.com From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 09:35:27 -0600 Subject: Fw: Re: 'No show' bidder. So one more question for you all. What value would you put on the car if I decided to sell it through a club or specialist site for a set amount or, do you think I should put it up on Ebay again? Okay, I know that wasn't one question ! I think you can still find my 'listing' on Ebay if you search under, ITEM # 2435157105 . in Ebay Motors. Failing that, I still have a few poor digital pictures on my old hard drive if you send me your e-mail address. Thank you .....dk From "R.J. Denton" From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 10:59:28 -0600 Subject: Re: fake 100S s/n 3610 So who does have the fake??? Probably quite a few people. Bob Denton "Freese, Ken" wrote: > I have been away from the computer for a long weekend, but the M. Cooke car > is definitely a fake. Funny, he points out serial numbers that are in the > wrong location! > The car has been known as a fake for at least two years. > But, the publicity has drawn the real 3610 out of the "lost" category. Its > current owner is in America and is making moves for a total resotration. He > has owned it since 1967 (another Chevy conversion). > Ken Freese > 100S Registrar From "Vink, Graham" From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 10:18:58 -0600 Subject: Re: 'No show' bidder. 1) re-list the car on E-Bay, including in the description the fact that the previous high bidder was a deadbeat (so people will know why the car is up for sale again. 2) send e-mails to the people who bid on the car the first time, letting them know that the high bidder was a deadbeat and the car is still available. You could do this either before you re-list the car, or while it's re-listed. Technically, this would not be an E-Bay transaction, because they weren't the high bidder, so the buyer wouldn't have any of the E-Bay "protections," but I doubt if this would be a problem. By the way, the fact that the deadbeat is no longer "registered" is because E-Bay has de-listed him, undoubtedly due to negative feedback. What quite a few car sellers do is demand that any bidder with zero feedback or a negative feedback call the seller to confirm that they're serious about bidding. If they don't, you can reject their bid during the auction (in which case the auction reverts to the previous high bid) and also can "lock them out," preventing them from bidding again on that item. -Graham -----Original Message----- From: dkveuro@juno.com [mailto:dkveuro@juno.com] Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 10:35 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Fw: Re: 'No show' bidder. Okay folks.... I thank you all for helping with suggestions about my problem with a 'no show bidder' on Ebay. I knew the depth of information would extensive, and it was. Some of you even giving me a run through on how to reach Ebay Support. I wrote Ebay Support and they have the bidder in question listed now as a 'non registered user." Whatever that means. They also gave me credit of $40.00 to my Ebay account, and after 47 days too....usual cut off period is 45 days. So one more question for you all. What value would you put on the car if I decided to sell it through a club or specialist site for a set amount or, do you think I should put it up on Ebay again? Okay, I know that wasn't one question ! I think you can still find my 'listing' on Ebay if you search under, ITEM # 2435157105 . in Ebay Motors. Failing that, I still have a few poor digital pictures on my old hard drive if you send me your e-mail address. Thank you .....dk From "Freese, Ken" From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 08:28:29 -0800 Subject: RE: fake 100S s/n 3610 -----Original Message----- From: R.J. Denton [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net] Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 8:59 AM To: Freese, Ken Cc: 'healeys'; 'Rimey' Subject: Re: fake 100S s/n 3610 Gee, Ken. If I'm not mistaken, that really complicates the issue. Didn't one of Aussie listers say the the original car in a fatal accident and that bits and pieces of that car went in every direction???? So who does have the fake??? Probably quite a few people. Bob Denton "Freese, Ken" wrote: > I have been away from the computer for a long weekend, but the M. Cooke car > is definitely a fake. Funny, he points out serial numbers that are in the > wrong location! > The car has been known as a fake for at least two years. > But, the publicity has drawn the real 3610 out of the "lost" category. Its > current owner is in America and is making moves for a total resotration. He > has owned it since 1967 (another Chevy conversion). > Ken Freese > 100S Registrar From "Michael Salter" From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 11:47:29 -0500 Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom felts Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 8:20 AM To: Awgertoo@aol.com; OldHealeys@aol.com; greylinn@ozemail.com.au; foxriverkid@earthlink.net; edriver@sasktel.net Cc: m.brouillette@comcast.net; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay I think what bothers me most is the fact that it is listed as a true 100S. He could have advertised it as a look-a-like and sold it for hugh $$$ for all I care. that would have been honest advertising and the buyer would know exactly what he/she is getting. Actually, it would be nice to drive/own one that looked and sounded like an S as long as everyone knew it wasn't a real one. Take the Cobra's for example. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: OldHealeys@aol.com;greylinn@ozemail.com.au;tomfelts@earthlink.net;foxriv erkid@earthlink.net;edriver@sasktel.net Cc: m.brouillette@comcast.net; healeys@autox.team.net Sent: 11/23/03 8:59:08 PM Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay In a message dated 11/23/2003 7:43:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, OldHealeys@aol.com writes: The car on E-Bay is a FAKE 100S! And the high bid is now $57.5. Best--Michael From SMickel950 at aol.com From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 12:17:59 EST Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Contemporary HistoryThis particular 100S was shipped to the BMC Distributors in San Francisco in 1955. The car was most probably run as a dealership competition backed car in local events through 1955, 1956 and 1957. The car was provided to Gil Geitner and Ray Como for Sebring in 1957. The car was registered as a special where it performed well in class against stiff opersition that year. The pair came a credible 2nd in class and 26th overall having completed 151 laps; (the winner having completed 197). The outright winner was a Maserati 450s driven by Juan Fangio and Jean Behra. Average speed was 85.36 mph; distance traveled 1024.4 miles with a margin of victory being two laps from Stirling Moss and Harry Schell in a Maserati 300SThe car was subsequently raced in the Mid west by a well known SCCA pair of Gene Smiley and his son Gordon. The Smileys ran several Healeys and had a small amount of factory support from Warwick during the late 1950bs and early 1960bs. Their 100/6 coming a very credible 3rd in the SCCA divisional championship that year.The car along with other Healeys was purchased from the Smileys estate , Gene having died some time earlier and Gordon having been killed in an Indianapolis car in the 1980bs. In a message dated 11/24/2003 8:50:04 AM Pacific Standard Time, msalter@precisionsportscar.com writes: > I have not been able to access the web site to which he directed me > http://pwp.ibl.bm/~MarkCooke/austin reputedly containing more > information about the car, and it is very likely that that could be a > ploy to be used to defend himself should anyone challenge the validity > of the car. From "J. Scott Morris" From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 12:33:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: oil pan repair Rather than replacing your oil pan, you can repair your existing one and improve on it, all in accordance with original procedures. A friend of mine cut out the bottom of a badly beaten oil pan and welded in a new piece of metal. We had heard that it is difficult to weld metal that has been soaked in oil, but no problem was encountered. Then we welded an oil pan protection plate, based on "Austin Service Journal" bulletin dated 11 Nov. 1960; No.A/306 which describes a 'sump protection plate' for Austin Healey 3000 (BN7; BT7). The bulletin states: "To prevent sump damage in very rough country, a mild steel protection plate (Fig. 1) may be welded to the sump in six places (Fig. 2). Sumps should be drained and removed before welding. Arc-welding is preferable if distortion is to be avoided and Si fbronze will also enable a satisfactory job to be made." You can find a copy of the "Austin Service Journal" bulletin, templates, print options, and brief description at http://www.justbrits.com/sump/sumpplate.htm --Scott Morris ['62 3000 BT7 tricarb driver; '60 3000 BN7 project] Simcoe, Ontario Canada --- joe mulqueen wrote: << Hello, I just scrubbed down my bashed 3000 oil pan to see what repairs it needs. Its bottom looks like it was already beat back into shape a few times. There're also pin holes from acid sludge (this engine sat for 20+ yrs) plus a light rust over the rest of the interior. I'm thinking of having someone cut off the bottom and blend in new metal. Anyone do this? While at it I might add the original "Healey skidplate" modification. Or maybe I should simply buy an aluminum pan.... Cheers, Joe Mulqueen '60 BT7 Torrance, CA >> ===== J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives ______________________________________________________________________ Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca From John Harper From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:45:03 +0000 Subject: Re: Engine paint Dark Blue was the colour used on A90 Atlantic Engines. A few of these were known to have been fitted into very early cars but not to my knowledge as late as yours. It would help to know the engine number. From this I should be able to work out when the engine was built and maybe if this was destined for an A90 or A-H 100. It would also be interesting to know if your distributor is fixed to the block by one or two bolts. If your estimate is correct then the original engine for your car would have a number around 1B 1398xx All the best > >The engine color on my 53 100/4 project car has blue paint on the engine. To >the best of knowledge I estimate production # 975 or so, slightly under 1000. > I have read that only a few of the early cars had blue colored engines, so >few, that there is no original color blue that can be found today. > > Question : Is it worth it to keep the orginal blue color of this motor >during restoration? And if so,, any recommendations on obtaining this early >"blue engine paint" (or something equal to it)? > >As always, thanks in advance as this "List" is great and I appreciate your >responses. > >Gene K >53 100/4 in process > -- John Harper From "tom felts" From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 12:53:30 -0500 Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Tom > [Original Message] > From: Michael Salter > To: tom felts > Cc: > Date: 11/24/03 11:47:35 AM > Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > > Hi Tom, > I think that you have hit the nail on the head exactly. From "Rich C" From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 12:54:27 -0500 Subject: Re: Engine paint Subject: Engine paint > Listers, > > The engine color on my 53 100/4 project car has blue paint on the engine. To > the best of knowledge I estimate production # 975 or so, slightly under 1000. > I have read that only a few of the early cars had blue colored engines, so > few, that there is no original color blue that can be found today. > > Question : Is it worth it to keep the orginal blue color of this motor > during restoration? And if so,, any recommendations on obtaining this early > "blue engine paint" (or something equal to it)? > > As always, thanks in advance as this "List" is great and I appreciate your > responses. > > Gene K > 53 100/4 in process From Genski434 at aol.com From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 12:58:46 EST Subject: Re: Engine paint Thanks for your response to my "engine paint" question. The serial # to this 100/4 is close to your estimate at 138996... This is the chassie # and it also has a number tag on the firewall of JM 4222-51. I can't find this number anywhere and if you could comment I would be appreciative. I have made my own, non-professional, estimate and thats how I came up to the number of 975 or so,, just under 1000. I truely believe the paint color on the engine is original, however I have no real way of knowing. From Genski434 at aol.com From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 13:10:10 EST Subject: Re: Engine paint I'm not sure of anything associated with car, really. I have some history on it but nothing official. The chassie number is 138996 which is how I estimated the production date. The engine has a number B19038. There is also a I.D. tag on the firewall of JM 4222-51. If not be able to make anything out of that one. Thanks for you help and interest.. Gene K 53 100 From Awgertoo at aol.com From: To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 13:18:16 EST Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > As far as I can tell this seller is not disclosing anything of the > "history" of the car on the Ebay site but is indicating that the car is 3610. To my > mind, that is fraudulent. I have not been able to access the web site to which > he directed me > http://pwp.ibl.bm/~MarkCooke/austin reputedly containing more information > about the car, I too sent the seller an email asking for the car's history, etc. over the last 40 years and was referred to the same website and told to email for any further info which I did, but I doubt that anything signifigant will be revealed. Someone once said that only about 5% of the AH owners subscribe to this list and it's a shame that others do not have the benefit of knowledge and background such as that expressed by several folks who are in the know. It will be interesting to see the outcome of the auction and, when the buyer hopefully emerges in the future, what the story will be then. Best--Michael Oritt From "HoYo" From: "Freese, Ken" To: "'healeys'" Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 12:21:19 -0600 Subject: fake 100S s/n 3610 > I have been away from the computer for a long weekend, but the M. Cooke car > is definitely a fake. Funny, he points out serial numbers that are in the > wrong location! > The car has been known as a fake for at least two years. > But, the publicity has drawn the real 3610 out of the "lost" category. Its > current owner is in America and is making moves for a total resotration. He > has owned it since 1967 (another Chevy conversion). > Ken Freese > 100S Registrar From "J. Scott Morris" From: "Freese, Ken" To: "'healeys'" Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 13:25:46 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: fake 100S s/n 3610 I think if you go back and review your emails you will find that Joe Armour stated ... "AHS 3601 was involved in a fatal crash in New Zealand and scrapped with only a few parts being salvaged." The 100S being referred to here is AHS 3610, an entirely different car. Let's not make a confusing situation even worse by getting our story lines mixed up. If you wish to review the status of various 100S' I suggest you visit Roger Los web site "Big Healeys" at http://austinhealey.com/ and review Ken Freese's data base of all 100S cars. Go to Healey catalog 100S Article database Mind you, the date on the data base is given as February 1996 so I don't know when it was last updated. --Scott Morris, Simcoe, Ontario "R.J. Denton" wrote: << Gee, Ken. If I'm not mistaken, that really complicates the issue. Didn't one of Aussie listers say the the original car in a fatal accident and that bits and pieces of that car went in every direction???? So who does have the fake??? Probably quite a few people. Bob Denton >> "Freese, Ken" wrote: << I have been away from the computer for a long weekend, but the M. Cooke car is definitely a fake. Funny, he points out serial numbers that are in the wrong location! The car has been known as a fake for at least two years. But, the publicity has drawn the real 3610 out of the "lost" category. Its current owner is in America and is making moves for a total resotration. He has owned it since 1967 (another Chevy conversion). Ken Freese 100S Registrar >> ===== J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives ______________________________________________________________________ Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca From "Freese, Ken" From: "Freese, Ken" To: "'healeys'" Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 10:36:17 -0800 Subject: RE: fake 100S s/n 3610 -----Original Message----- From: J. Scott Morris [mailto:jstmorris@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 10:26 AM To: R.J. Denton; Freese, Ken Cc: 'healeys'; 'Rimey' Subject: Re: fake 100S s/n 3610 Hello Bob; I think if you go back and review your emails you will find that Joe Armour stated ... "AHS 3601 was involved in a fatal crash in New Zealand and scrapped with only a few parts being salvaged." The 100S being referred to here is AHS 3610, an entirely different car. Let's not make a confusing situation even worse by getting our story lines mixed up. If you wish to review the status of various 100S' I suggest you visit Roger Los web site "Big Healeys" at http://austinhealey.com/ and review Ken Freese's data base of all 100S cars. Go to Healey catalog 100S Article database Mind you, the date on the data base is given as February 1996 so I don't know when it was last updated. --Scott Morris, Simcoe, Ontario "R.J. Denton" wrote: << Gee, Ken. If I'm not mistaken, that really complicates the issue. Didn't one of Aussie listers say the the original car in a fatal accident and that bits and pieces of that car went in every direction???? So who does have the fake??? Probably quite a few people. Bob Denton >> "Freese, Ken" wrote: << I have been away from the computer for a long weekend, but the M. Cooke car is definitely a fake. Funny, he points out serial numbers that are in the wrong location! The car has been known as a fake for at least two years. But, the publicity has drawn the real 3610 out of the "lost" category. Its current owner is in America and is making moves for a total resotration. He has owned it since 1967 (another Chevy conversion). Ken Freese 100S Registrar >> ===== J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives ______________________________________________________________________ Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca From Editorgary at aol.com From: "Freese, Ken" To: "'healeys'" Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 13:40:02 EST Subject: 100S Authentication << At the end of the day, seems like the appropriate thing to do is for the 100S registry to create an official certificate, similar to the BMIHT cert, endorsed by the major Healey clubs in UK, Australia and US. Probably the best way to prevent fraud of this sort in the future. >> For the C, D, and XK-SS Jaguars, there is a public register that is updated and published every few years. Lists the histories, particulars, and pictures of each of the cars that has been authenticated. A car that's not in the list, or is identified by a number that is indicated as having been written off or lost, is essentially guilty of being a fake until proven innocent by the committee, led by Terry Larson, that keeps up the register. I know an effort was made many years ago, to account for all 50-odd 100Ss, but wonder what's been done recently. An interesting book would include not only these, but also all the other unusual (e.g. late Le Mans Healeys) Healeys with specific histories that might give them unusual value. Cheers Gary From "Thames, G. Troy" From: "Freese, Ken" To: "'healeys'" Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 13:42:32 -0500 Subject: Question about welding in floor pans Troy BT-7 Tri-carb CONFIDENTIAL & PRIVILEGED Unless otherwise indicated or obvious from the nature of the above communication, the information contained herein may be an attorney-client privileged and confidential information/work product. The communication is intended for the use of the individual or entity named above. If the reader of this transmission is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error or are not sure whether it is privileged, please immediately notify us by return e-mail and destroy any copies, electronic, paper or otherwise, which you may have of this communication. From "Rick &7& Neves" From: "Freese, Ken" To: "'healeys'" Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 14:03:15 -0500 Subject: Healey Brake shoe rivets I have a set of friction material but some how the rivets got lost along the way. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.543 / Virus Database: 337 - Release Date: 11/21/2003 From "Jim LeBlanc" From: "Freese, Ken" To: "'healeys'" Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 13:12:50 -0600 Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay 1. The current owner could be perpetuating a deception, accidentally or on purpose. Who is responsible for notifying him of that? IMO, not me. 2. Why should we discourage responsible recreation of 3610? I do hear qualified objections to a bad recreation but I hear little encouragement for a responsible restoration. There is obviously a good engine block there! Consider the case of the famous Miller car, named the Golden Submarine. As an aside I think I recall Barney Oldfield as having driven this car. Years ago it was recreated and given the dignity of coming back to life by Automobile Quarterly. Could we do the same here for 3610? I vote yes. Regards, Jim LeBlanc 1956 100-M (less controversial than a S, or so it seems) -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of SMickel950@aol.com Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 11:18 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Following is the history published on the web site. Contemporary HistoryThis particular 100S was shipped to the BMC Distributors in San Francisco in 1955. The car was most probably run as a dealership competition backed car in local events through 1955, 1956 and 1957. The car was provided to Gil Geitner and Ray Como for Sebring in 1957. The car was registered as a special where it performed well in class against stiff opersition that year. The pair came a credible 2nd in class and 26th overall having completed 151 laps; (the winner having completed 197). The outright winner was a Maserati 450s driven by Juan Fangio and Jean Behra. Average speed was 85.36 mph; distance traveled 1024.4 miles with a margin of victory being two laps from Stirling Moss and Harry Schell in a Maserati 300SThe car was subsequently raced in the Mid west by a well known SCCA pair of Gene Smiley and his son Gordon. The Smileys ran several Healeys and had a small amount of factory support from Warwick during the late 1950bs and early 1960bs. Their 100/6 coming a very credible 3rd in the SCCA divisional championship that year.The car along with other Healeys was purchased from the Smileys estate , Gene having died some time earlier and Gordon having been killed in an Indianapolis car in the 1980bs. In a message dated 11/24/2003 8:50:04 AM Pacific Standard Time, msalter@precisionsportscar.com writes: > I have not been able to access the web site to which he directed me > http://pwp.ibl.bm/~MarkCooke/austin reputedly containing more > information about the car, and it is very likely that that could be a > ploy to be used to defend himself should anyone challenge the validity > of the car. From Healeyolic From: "Healeyolic" To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 14:36:46 -0500 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay | And, unless I am mistaken, the bm in his URL is the country designator as | far as URL's are concerned for The Bahamas. | | Appears more and more like a Nigerian type of scam. | | John Sims, BN6 | Aberdeen, NJ | | | ----- Original Message ----- | From: | To: ; | Cc: | Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 1:18 PM | Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay | | | | In a message dated 11/24/2003 11:50:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, | | msalter@precisionsportscar.com writes: | | | | > As far as I can tell this seller is not disclosing anything of the | | > "history" of the car on the Ebay site but is indicating that the car is | 3610. To my | | > mind, that is fraudulent. I have not been able to access the web site to | which | | > he directed me | | > http://pwp.ibl.bm/~MarkCooke/austin reputedly containing more | information | | > about the car, | | | | I too sent the seller an email asking for the car's history, etc. over the | | last 40 years and was referred to the same website and told to email for | any | | further info which I did, but I doubt that anything signifigant will be | revealed. | | | | | | Someone once said that only about 5% of the AH owners subscribe to this | list | | and it's a shame that others do not have the benefit of knowledge and | | background such as that expressed by several folks who are in the know. | It will be | | interesting to see the outcome of the auction and, when the buyer | hopefully | | emerges in the future, what the story will be then. | | | | Best--Michael Oritt || From CNAArndt at aol.com From: "Healeyolic" To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 14:45:10 EST Subject: Re: Engine paint << Roland, I'm not sure of anything associated with car, really. I have some history on it but nothing official. The chassie number is 138996 which is how I estimated the production date. The engine has a number B19038. There is also a I.D. tag on the firewall of JM 4222-51. If not be able to make anything out of that one. Thanks for you help and interest.. >> Gene, I talked with Roland about your car this morning and given not only the chassis number but the body number you list as JM 4222-51, I have to assume for now, that this is a very early car. No where near the 975 estimated body number but more like body number 51! In which case your blue engine color may very well be original. If this is the case, you own a very early BN1. You may want to go to Larry Varley's Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site at: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/ Then go to the section on "The Restoration of the First Production 100," page 1. Check out the identification tags on this car and see if they are similar to yours. Additionally there is also a picture of the engine with its original blue paint. Let us know what you find out. Cheers, Curt Arndt - Chairman, Austin Healey Concours Committee Carlsbad, CA '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) From "Keith Turk" From: "Healeyolic" To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 13:49:25 -0600 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay The car was done exceptionally well.... if it's to or close to S spec's then what is it? I have a buddy that runs the light weight Sonoco Camaro from the 60's trans am wars.... you know the one... it's Blue with Yellow and was driven by Mark Donahue and built by Roger Penske..... he's totaled that car several times.... and it's still the same car because the Data plate says it is.... he doesn't acid dip the body panels any more... nor does he do any of the silliness that would be required to say it's authentic.... it looks right and runs hard.... so is it still the same car? My answer is YES absolutely... and Yep I'd love to own it.... but that will never happen cause it's worth more then a 100S... and I can't even afford this one that everyone is calling a fake. Keith ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim LeBlanc" To: Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 1:12 PM Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > I hesitate to contribute but at this point two meaningful thoughts occur > to me: From "Patton Dickson" From: "Healeyolic" To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 15:16:20 -0600 Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Here is more for the lawyers... If someone, somewhere holds legitimate title to 3610, even if it is only paper, could they claim ownership of this car since it is being represented as the real thing? Patton -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim LeBlanc Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 1:13 PM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay 2. Why should we discourage responsible recreation of 3610? I do hear qualified objections to a bad recreation but I hear little encouragement for a responsible restoration. There is obviously a good engine block there! From Roland Wilhelmy From: "Healeyolic" To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 14:02:31 -0800 Subject: Re: Healey Brake shoe rivets I don't think a concours inspection would reveal the absence of brake shoe rivets ;-) And if it did you could argue that it was a safety-related modification. -Roland On Mon, 24 Nov 2003 14:03:15 -0500, you wrote: ::Does anybody know a source for these rivets. Or has anybody tried pop rivets ::or any other way to attach the friction material to brake shoes. :: ::I have a set of friction material but some how the rivets got lost along the ::way. From SMickel950 at aol.com From: "Healeyolic" To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:24:45 EST Subject: Re: Engine paint The following information from my data base shows the numbers are consistent with being a very early car: Engine # 1B-139001 first organized engine number per Clausager. BN1 -138975 with engine #1B-139018 first right hand drive per Clausager and parts book. BN1?-138980: a record exists on John Harper's data base. BN1?-138983: a record exists on John Harper's data base. BN1L-138987, batch 4222, body 45 produced in July 1953. [Car in question: BN1?-138996, batch 4222, body 51, engine number probably 1B-139038, probably produced in July 1953]. BN1?-138997: a record exists on John Harper's data base. Partial records exist for chassis numbers: 139459, 139870,139886 & 140202. BN1?-140204: OD ratio change point per Wheatley. BN1?-140205: OD ratio change point per Clausager. Change date listed as August 1953. BN1L-140209, (original engine 1B-139044), batch 4284, body 62 displayed at Open Roads June 2002. BN1?-140218, batch 4284, body 70 was delivered 6 August 1953. Regards. Steve Mickelson (Registry advocate) In a message dated 11/24/2003 11:54:09 AM Pacific Standard Time, CNAArndt@aol.com writes: > In a message dated 11/24/03 10:13:13 AM Pacific Standard Time, > Genski434@aol.com writes: > > < > I'm not sure of anything associated with car, really. I have some history > on > it but nothing official. The chassie number is 138996 which is how I > estimated the production date. The engine has a number B19038. There is > also a > I.D. tag on the firewall of JM 4222-51. If not be able to make anything out > > of > that one. > > Thanks for you help and interest.. >> > > Gene, > > I talked with Roland about your car this morning and given not only the > chassis number but the body number you list as JM 4222-51, I have to assume > for > now, that this is a very early car. No where near the 975 estimated body > number > but more like body number 51! In which case your blue engine color may very > > well be original. If this is the case, you own a very early BN1. > > You may want to go to Larry Varley's Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site at: > > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/ > > Then go to the section on "The Restoration of the First Production 100," > page > 1. Check out the identification tags on this car and see if they are > similar > to yours. Additionally there is also a picture of the engine with its > original blue paint. > > Let us know what you find out. > > Cheers, > > Curt Arndt - Chairman, Austin Healey Concours Committee > Carlsbad, CA > '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) From Douglas W Flagg From: "Healeyolic" To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:27:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Chatter Happy Healeying, Doug ________________________________________________________________ From Steve Gerow From: "Healeyolic" To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 14:55:26 -0800 Subject: Leakage & Compression Preliminary Results Format: Supplied Air Pressure / Cylinder Pressure % difference between the two. Cold Leakage Hot Leakage Hot Compression 1 71/63 11% 79/73 8% 162 2 70/55 22% 79/60 24% 146 3 70/56 20% 79/64 19% 157 4 70/58 17% 78/67 14% Not performed 5 70/53 24% 79/63 21% " 6 71/67 6% 79/73 8% " According to this, my engine's tired. Of course it runs strongly and didn't smoke on a 20 mile trip coming down out of the local mountains. What's considered an adequate compression figure on a Healey? -- Steve Gerow Pasadena CA 59 BN6 From "BJ8Healeys" From: "Healeyolic" To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:05:26 -0500 Subject: Re: Question about welding in floor pans Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: Thames, G. Troy To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 1:42 PM Subject: Question about welding in floor pans I've been battling the tin worm for some time, and am at the point where I'm welding in a new floor pan. When I removed what was left of the original, it appeared to be welded only every few inches. Are most folks installing like the factory, or welding along the entire seams? I would think welding all the way around might add some rigidity, if only slightly, and would help seal up the floor. Any comments will be appreciated. By the way, I'm planning on a driver and not a concours car, so I'm not too concerned about doing it exactly like the factory. Troy BT-7 Tri-carb From Genski434 at aol.com From: "Healeyolic" To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:05:20 EST Subject: Engine color I checked out the Varley site as you suggested. My I.D. plate is very similar to his and the engine color appears slightly different than his, but very similar just the same. (a deeper blue on mine, I believe) I read through his restoration (with great envy) and I am convinced that you have correctly identified my car with engine# B1 39038. His is considered the 1st production 100 with the body # 24... so mine is, as you say, is very early with body # 51. I couldn't be more pleased with your information and the information provided by Steve Mickelson and Carl Arndt. I did know that the car was early but I didn't imagine as early as you have indicated. The engine color will definately stay as well as some regrouping on how to proceed with the project. Many, many thanks Gene K Early 53 Bn1 From "Jim LeBlanc" From: "Healeyolic" To: ; ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:15:24 -0600 Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Having a 100s with everything but a legitimate number might need some serious thought. Certainly somebody started to recreate 3610 and spent significant money. The major objection is that without adequately funding more money the project will never be right. Then after it is made right the car will need some numbers. Here is where I propose that the Healey clubs create a special category for cars that are recreated from correct parts. In this case it seems as if a real 100s could be properly ordained. Over the past year I have spoken with a 100S owner and he claims to have almost enough parts to create a car. Why not? There are many Bugatti's that have come to life in this manner. Best Regards, Jim LeBlanc Sort of glad that I only have an M -----Original Message----- From: Jim LeBlanc [mailto:jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com] Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 1:13 PM To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay I hesitate to contribute but at this point two meaningful thoughts occur to me: 1. The current owner could be perpetuating a deception, accidentally or on purpose. Who is responsible for notifying him of that? IMO, not me. 2. Why should we discourage responsible recreation of 3610? I do hear qualified objections to a bad recreation but I hear little encouragement for a responsible restoration. There is obviously a good engine block there! Consider the case of the famous Miller car, named the Golden Submarine. As an aside I think I recall Barney Oldfield as having driven this car. Years ago it was recreated and given the dignity of coming back to life by Automobile Quarterly. Could we do the same here for 3610? I vote yes. Regards, Jim LeBlanc 1956 100-M (less controversial than a S, or so it seems) From "HoYo" From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'Jim LeBlanc'" ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:12:09 -0600 Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > I think that a recreation is only responsible if the original car is > definitely destroyed. I think Ken Freeze was saying that the real AHS 3610 > is no longer lost. I would hate to spend $$$$ restoring the real car and > have it's providence question due to a "recreation" represented as original. > > > Here is more for the lawyers... If someone, somewhere holds legitimate title > to 3610, even if it is only paper, could they claim ownership of this car > since it is being represented as the real thing? > > Patton > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Jim LeBlanc > Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 1:13 PM > To: healeys@autox.team.net > Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > > 2. Why should we discourage responsible recreation of 3610? I do hear > qualified objections to a bad recreation but I hear little encouragement for > a responsible restoration. There is obviously a good engine block there! From "BJ8Healeys" From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'Jim LeBlanc'" ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:34:05 -0500 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: tom felts To: Awgertoo@aol.com ; OldHealeys@aol.com ; greylinn@ozemail.com.au ; foxriverkid@earthlink.net ; edriver@sasktel.net Cc: m.brouillette@comcast.net ; healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 8:20 AM Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay I think what bothers me most is the fact that it is listed as a true 100S. He could have advertised it as a look-a-like and sold it for hugh $$$ for all I care. that would have been honest advertising and the buyer would know exactly what he/she is getting. Actually, it would be nice to drive/own one that looked and sounded like an S as long as everyone knew it wasn't a real one. Take the Cobra's for example. From SMickel950 at aol.com From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'Jim LeBlanc'" ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:44:42 EST Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Someone with solid proof and/or authority should be notifying eBay about this apparently fraudulent sale. Steve M. In a message dated 11/24/2003 3:17:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com writes: > Here is where I propose that the Healey clubs create a special category > for cars that are recreated from correct parts. In this case it seems as > if a real 100s could be properly ordained. From "BJ8Healeys" From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'Jim LeBlanc'" ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:46:50 -0500 Subject: Another success for the BJ8 Registry Last week, there was an original BJ8 engine serial number plate (29K/RU/H14807) for sale on eBay. A BJ8 owner in New York notified me about the sale. As it happened, the BJ8 registry had a record of the car that the plate belonged to (and a copy of the BMIHT certificate), as well as a record of the current owner of the car. I sent e-mail to both the seller of the plate. to let him know that the car to which the plate belonged was known, and to the current owner to let them know of the sale. The seller responded that if the current owner of the car would get in touch with him, he would pull the tag from the auction and give it to the owner. Later I got a call from the owner, and I put the owner and seller in touch. The tag was pulled from the auction, and I presume that the tag is now on its way to be reunited with the original engine. At the risk of stating the obvious, the registries can provide a real service to the Healey communities if owners of the cars take the time to list them and their details with the registries. As of today, the BJ8 registry has a record of 4,665 individual BJ8s worldwide, and it's still growing at about 20 cars per month. Happy Healeying! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From "Greg Lemon" From: "Patton Dickson" To: "'Jim LeBlanc'" ; Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:53:28 -0600 Subject: Re: Healey Brake shoe rivets Greg Lemon 54 BN1 > A good brake shop can bond those linings to your shoes. Rivets are > then only for show. The bonding holds a whole lot better and won't > score your expensive brake drums when worn. > > I don't think a concours inspection would reveal the absence of brake > shoe rivets ;-) > > And if it did you could argue that it was a safety-related > modification. > > -Roland > > On Mon, 24 Nov 2003 14:03:15 -0500, you wrote: > > ::Does anybody know a source for these rivets. Or has anybody tried pop rivets > ::or any other way to attach the friction material to brake shoes. > :: > ::I have a set of friction material but some how the rivets got lost along the > ::way. From "HoYo" From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:15:47 -0600 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > Ken Freese is already using an "RE" suffix to identify the recreated 100S > cars on his Registry. I assume AHS-3610-RE will be added. > > Someone with solid proof and/or authority should be notifying eBay about this > apparently fraudulent sale. > > Steve M. > > In a message dated 11/24/2003 3:17:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, > jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com writes: > > > Here is where I propose that the Healey clubs create a special category > > for cars that are recreated from correct parts. In this case it seems as > > if a real 100s could be properly ordained. From "Greg Lemon" From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:22:28 -0600 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay First if this car is not a 100S, or the tie that makes it one is tenuous, obviously the owner/seller should disclose the history. But..... Replicas are made and sold all the time, from Shelby Mustangs to Lotus 26Rs and Sebring Sprites. They have a value usually somewhere between the value of the less glamourous car it is based upon and the reall thing, depending on the quality and accuracy of the work and hsitoric value and rarity of the model it is based on. Many sellers are very forthcoming about what the car is, some are less so. At current price (57K) it doesn't seem too out of line. It doesn't make it right, but if I were going to spend that kind of money on a car and I was concerned about historic accuracy/pedigree I would certainly check all possible sources and have an expert inspect it before purchase, if the buyer balked at my doing any of this, I would be wary and not bid or bid accordingly. If somebody wants to bid the car up over 100K without doing this, I am not going to feel great sorrow or indignation an injustice that has been done. As E-bay says in its policies Caveat Emptor. Happy Healying (none for me now, got my new generator, but it snowed the next day) Greg Lemon 54 BN1 From SHOMWAY at aol.com From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 19:33:29 EST Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Seller would like to advise potential bidders that it has come to his recent notice that another Austin Healey 100S also has the same chassis number of 3610 , as the current car offered for sale . Therefore the seller would like to advise any potential bidders that the auction will be subject to the buyerbs final inspection of the car for provenance and condition and if the buyer is not satisfied with either or both, and then the seller will allow the buyer to withdraw from the sale. From "PETER DAVIS" From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 16:46:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: Correct color for the tools in the BN2 kit thanks for the help Peter Davis ________________________________________________ PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart. http://www.peoplepc.com From "Keith Pennell" From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 20:17:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Torque Wrench I recently purchased the Craftsman 1/2 drive wrench that Bob mentions. I don't feel you can go wrong there. Paid $60 as Bob says. Keith Pennell > Ron, > > > Sears sells fine torque wrenches and regularly puts them on sale. > You can get them for under $60US with a Craftsmen's Club card. > > I have three: > > 1/2" drive 20-150 ft-lb > 3/8" drive 10-75 ft-lb > 3/8" drive 25-250 in-lb > > For less than $150 you can get the 1/2" and the larger 3/8", which > will cover just about everything you need. Theoretically, the 3/8" > in-lb wrench range overlaps with the 1/2", but the higher range 3/8" > comes in handy sometimes because it's shorter than the 1/2". > > If you only get one get the 1/2", which is suitable for most engine work. > > FWIW, we had a Sears wrench calibrated for aircraft work and it > was spot-on. > > > bs > ******************************************** > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net > '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M > ******************************************** > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ron Fine" > To: "Healey List" ; > Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 3:06 PM > Subject: Torque Wrench > > > > I need to buy an new torque wrench to work on my Healey and MGB. My old > > one was a cheap one that gave up the ghost a long time ago. Any > > suggestions? The torque wrenches I've seen can be divided into 3/8 inch > > and 1/2 inch drive and between low torque range and higher torque range. > > All are at least $150.00. Because of the anticipate cost I would like > > to get as universal a wrench as possible to cover most or all of the > > applications I will need it for in rebuilding my engines. Any > > suggestions would be greatly appreciated. > > Ron > > 61 BN7 > > 66 MGB From "Keith Pennell" From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 20:20:09 -0500 Subject: Re: fire extinguisher FWIW I feel the most likely fire location would be engine compartment. If you get a fire in the rear it is likely to be a really big one which will blow you away from the fire extinguisher! I keep mine just behind the passenger seat - no clamps to fuss with either! Keith Pennell > All, > > I would be interested to know in what location in the car is a fire most > likely to occur. Under the bonnet, in the boot, in the cockpit? > > My experience with other cars - not Healey, is that unless a collision > is involved most fires are in the engine. I don't know what happens when > a Healey is involved in a rear end crash. Any experience out there? > > Dave Russell > BN2 > > pdeturck@rochester.rr.com wrote: > > Are there recommended methods or perhaps > > regulations for types, mountings and locations > > for a fire extinguisher in a BJ8? > > > > 10BC? Halon? > > Transmission tunnel, behind the seat, under the dash? > > Metal bracket, or velcro fasteners? > > > > Not racing --- just keeping the extinguisher > > accessible for safety and shows. > > > > -pd- > > 66 BJ8 From Blue One Hundred From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 17:22:04 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Problem is the car was not done very well, and done obviously on the cheap with minimal work as possible to pass for the real thing. Yes the motor is mostly correct, but that's about it. The other problem is according to Ken Freese (someone who's opinion I trust on these matters), the real car still exists in California and is in the process of restoration. You will have a problem where two cars, registered with the same chassis number, will exist. That means one of them is perpetuating a fraud. Question is, which one is it... the guy who bought the car from the last known owner in 1967, or the guy trying to sell something VERY expensively on Ebay. Regards, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Keith Turk wrote: > Jim I'm with you on this one and had the same > thought the other day... > > The car was done exceptionally well.... if it's to > or close to S spec's > then what is it? > > I have a buddy that runs the light weight Sonoco > Camaro from the 60's trans > am wars.... you know the one... it's Blue with > Yellow and was driven by Mark > Donahue and built by Roger Penske..... he's totaled > that car several > times.... and it's still the same car because the > Data plate says it is.... > he doesn't acid dip the body panels any more... nor > does he do any of the > silliness that would be required to say it's > authentic.... it looks right > and runs hard.... so is it still the same car? > My answer is YES > absolutely... and Yep I'd love to own it.... but > that will never happen > cause it's worth more then a 100S... and I can't > even afford this one that > everyone is calling a fake. > > Keith > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jim LeBlanc" > To: > Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 1:12 PM > Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on > Ebay > > > > I hesitate to contribute but at this point two > meaningful thoughts occur > > to me: From "BJ8Healeys" From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 20:31:13 -0500 Subject: Re: Question about welding in floor pans This is one of those arguments, I think, where you takes your choice and sees what happens. Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: Keith Pennell To: BJ8Healeys ; healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 8:13 PM Subject: Re: Question about welding in floor pans Steve, I agree that there is probably some small measure of an increase in rigidity. In addition, there is probably some gain in sealing the seams against moisture from above. However, there is the moisture from below issue - a more likely moisture issue as well. Since the pans overlap the rails of the main frame, moisture can be trapped there by welding all around. Whether fully welding the pans or not, I would strongly advise that one seal all the metal to metal faces under the car with seam sealer from a tube using a caulking gun. Keith Pennell From "Chris Masucci" From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 19:51:53 -0600 Subject: Re: Question about welding in floor pans I welded mine with about 1 inch of weld every 6 inches. I used some modern seam sealer from a caulk tube all the way around the bottom, and brushable on the top. FWIW. Cheers, Chris BJ8 > I've been battling the tin worm for some time, and am at the point where I'm > welding in a new floor pan. When I removed what was left of the original, > it appeared to be welded only every few inches. Are most folks installing > like the factory, or welding along the entire seams? I would think welding > all the way around might add some rigidity, if only slightly, and would help > seal up the floor. Any comments will be appreciated. By the way, I'm > planning on a driver and not a concours car, so I'm not too concerned about > doing it exactly like the factory. > > Troy > BT-7 Tri-carb From Blue One Hundred From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:36:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Yes, but don't you find it odd that this owner seems to be going out of his way to prove it is authentic with the number stamping picture that you can't even read? I think a repro is fine, as long as it isn't passed off as "authentic" with papers, etc.. Too much emphasis on authenticity and papers has been placed by the seller about this car. Regards, Alan '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 --- Greg Lemon wrote: > Up to this point I have not commented on this one > (maybe the only one on the > list who hasn't, based on the number of things > e-mails I have seen on this). > I was going to leave it alone but I just can't stop > myself, because my > opinion is a little different than most. > > First if this car is not a 100S, or the tie that > makes it one is tenuous, > obviously the owner/seller should disclose the > history. But..... > > Replicas are made and sold all the time, from Shelby > Mustangs to Lotus 26Rs > and Sebring Sprites. They have a value usually > somewhere between the value > of the less glamourous car it is based upon and the > reall thing, depending > on the quality and accuracy of the work and hsitoric > value and rarity of the > model it is based on. Many sellers are very > forthcoming about what the car > is, some are less so. > > At current price (57K) it doesn't seem too out of > line. > > It doesn't make it right, but if I were going to > spend that kind of money on > a car and I was concerned about historic > accuracy/pedigree I would certainly > check all possible sources and have an expert > inspect it before purchase, if > the buyer balked at my doing any of this, I would be > wary and not bid or bid > accordingly. If somebody wants to bid the car up > over 100K without doing > this, I am not going to feel great sorrow or > indignation an injustice that > has been done. As E-bay says in its policies Caveat > Emptor. > > Happy Healying (none for me now, got my new > generator, but it snowed the > next day) > > Greg Lemon > 54 BN1 From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:38:55 -0800 Subject: Re: fake 100S s/n 3610 And you'll find it here: http://www.healey.org/100s.shtml Brad Weldon Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA http://www.healey.org/ From CNAArndt at aol.com From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 21:52:17 EST Subject: Re: Correct color for the tools in the BN2 kit Actually the tools were probably almost all black phosphate and then some of them were painted black (gloss) on top of that. The exceptions would be the two feeler gauges, the large washer and nut on the grease cup puller (on BN2s) which were zinc plated and the tire valve tool which was natural brass. I have found evidence of black paint over the black phosphate on items such as the pliers and the open end spanners, while others tools like the tube spanners and the King Dick adjustable spanner appeared to be only black phosphate. I have left all of the tools in my kit in the black phosphate finish, however either way would be acceptable. I re-phosphated all of the tools in my kit as well as the ones in Roger Moment's tool kit. I did the process at home and it is quite easy and the results can be as good as having them sent out and done. I can send you the directions in a separate e-mail if you would like. Cheers, Curt Arndt Chairman - Austin Healey Concours Committee Carlsbad, Ca '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) In a message dated 11/24/03 4:48:24 PM Pacific Standard Time, paddymck@peoplepc.com writes: << I am currently restoring my BN2 100M tool kit which a previous owner had chrome plated and is now corroded. The Anderson/Moment book says that the steel tools were finished in black phosphate or black paint but the picture of the tool kit shows them looking more like a zinc plate finish. Could the editors or anyone with experience please confirm the types of finish used at different times and if painted, should it be gloss or matt? thanks for the help Peter Davis >> From Dave Carpenter From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 21:55:56 -0500 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Dave WilKo@aol.com wrote: >There are countless cars out there in the vintage circles that are built up >with all new bodies and only have an engine and a number plate and few other >bits that were original. From Dave & Marlene From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 20:00:04 -0700 Subject: Re: Leakage & Compression Preliminary Results "Adequate compression" is the judgement of the person who is paying for the overhaul. In my experience with circle track engines - Anything more than 2% leakage on a brand new engine would be cause to fix the problem. Five % leakage would be cause for an overhaul. Five % means the difference between winning & losing. In the real world, I personally would be bothered by more than 10% leakage. The more leakage the less power & harder starting. It all depends on what you are willing to live with. It will certainly run ok with 20% leakage. Just not as good as with 5%. As a point of reference, my tester reads 30% leakage with a test hole of .040" diameter substituted for the cylinder. As you can see, it doesn't take much of a hole to drop the reading a lot. Dave Russell BN2 Steve Gerow wrote: > Preliminary results--done with inadequate air source. Will have more later. > Compression was an afterthought and I had to quit and haven't yet got back > to it. > What's considered an adequate compression figure on a Healey? From "Mike Brouillette" From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 22:04:10 -0500 Subject: RE: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Ebay has already been told. They basically said thanks for letting us know but we like the money... Mike Brouillette 59 BT7 and one of the early bidders for the fake 100S (I would have taken it for $25K) -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of SMickel950@aol.com Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 6:45 PM To: jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Ken Freese is already using an "RE" suffix to identify the recreated 100S cars on his Registry. I assume AHS-3610-RE will be added. Someone with solid proof and/or authority should be notifying eBay about this apparently fraudulent sale. Steve M. In a message dated 11/24/2003 3:17:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com writes: > Here is where I propose that the Healey clubs create a special category > for cars that are recreated from correct parts. In this case it seems as > if a real 100s could be properly ordained. From Blue One Hundred From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:39:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay If enything ever happens to one of my Healeys (i.e. gets stolen), I take comfort knowing I can turn to this list for REAL help. Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- SHOMWAY@aol.com wrote: > Im not sure if anyone noticed but the seller has > added this to the eBay > listing...I guess he heard the voices from the list. > Gordon Swart > 67 BJ8 > > Seller would like to advise potential bidders that > it has come to his recent > notice that another Austin Healey 100S also has the > same chassis number of > 3610 , as the current car offered for sale . > Therefore the seller would like to > advise any potential bidders that the auction will > be subject to the buyerbs > final inspection of the car for provenance and > condition and if the buyer is not > satisfied with either or both, and then the seller > will allow the buyer to > withdraw from the sale. From "Robert Tebbenhoff" From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 22:46:43 -0500 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay No 100S badge on grill. Front Fenders are BN2 not BN1 (Paint line is wrong). Seats have hole in bottom. Lower part of front shroud should go lower and almost hide the frame rails (more like a 100-6) Asking price is $85,000. That should be the biggest clue to the question is it real!!!!! _________________________________________________________________ Need a shot of Hank Williams or Patsy Cline? The classic country stars are always singing on MSN Radio Plus. Try one month free! From "Robert Tebbenhoff" From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 22:53:51 -0500 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay _________________________________________________________________ Share holiday photos without swamping your Inbox. Get MSN Extra Storage now! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From Blue One Hundred From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 19:58:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: fire extinguisher Those of us who live in a big city know that keeping an extinguisher behind the rear seat in a convertible is... well... sure to make sure I will be buying another extiguisher in very short order and hiding it elsewhere! Somewhere under the dash, preferably reachable, is best. Out of sight & probably won't get stolen... PARTICULARLY if it's halon. Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Keith Pennell wrote: > Dave, > > FWIW I feel the most likely fire location would be > engine compartment. If > you get a fire in the rear it is likely to be a > really big one which will > blow you away from the fire extinguisher! > > I keep mine just behind the passenger seat - no > clamps to fuss with either! > > Keith Pennell From "BJ8Healeys" From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 23:11:29 -0500 Subject: Re: fire extinguisher Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA ----- Original Message ----- From: pdeturck@rochester.rr.com To: healeys@autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 8:24 AM Subject: fire extinguisher Are there recommended methods or perhaps regulations for types, mountings and locations for a fire extinguisher in a BJ8? 10BC? Halon? Transmission tunnel, behind the seat, under the dash? Metal bracket, or velcro fasteners? Not racing --- just keeping the extinguisher accessible for safety and shows. -pd- 66 BJ8 From Earl Kagna From: To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 20:19:59 -0800 Subject: Fw: Healey Brake shoe rivets I agree completely - I have used bonded linings for years without problems. One point - modern brake linings are made in 1/4" thickness - if the linings on a Healey rear are this thick, the drums will not go on. Advise the reliner - it's easy enough to 'arch' them down to 3/16" so everything will go back together. It would be adviseable that the shop have the drums when doing this. Been there, done that, couldn't get the bloody drums back on! Earl Kagna Victoria, B. C. Canada '62 BT7 tri-carb '67 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Roland Wilhelmy" ; "Rick &7& Neves" Cc: Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 3:53 PM Subject: Re: Healey Brake shoe rivets I concur with Roland on all counts, I had my BN1 shoes re-done, the reputable brake and clutch shop in my area told me the same thing, and no problems since (three years or so). I suppose adhesive technology has come pretty far in the last 50 years. Greg Lemon 54 BN1 > A good brake shop can bond those linings to your shoes. Rivets are > then only for show. The bonding holds a whole lot better and won't > score your expensive brake drums when worn. > > I don't think a concours inspection would reveal the absence of brake > shoe rivets ;-) > > And if it did you could argue that it was a safety-related > modification. > > -Roland > > On Mon, 24 Nov 2003 14:03:15 -0500, you wrote: > > ::Does anybody know a source for these rivets. Or has anybody tried pop rivets > ::or any other way to attach the friction material to brake shoes. > :: > ::I have a set of friction material but some how the rivets got lost along the > ::way. From "Tim Davis" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 22:28:30 -0600 Subject: Question about welding in floor pans > I've been battling the tin worm for some time, and am at the point where I'm > welding in a new floor pan. When I removed what was left of the original, > it appeared to be welded only every few inches. Are most folks installing > like the factory, or welding along the entire seams? I would think welding > all the way around might add some rigidity, if only slightly, and would help > seal up the floor. Any comments will be appreciated. By the way, I'm > planning on a driver and not a concours car, so I'm not too concerned about > doing it exactly like the factory. > > Troy > BT-7 Tri-carb > > > CONFIDENTIAL & PRIVILEGED > > Unless otherwise indicated or obvious from the nature of the above > communication, the information contained herein may be an attorney-client > privileged and confidential information/work product. The communication is > intended for the use of the individual or entity named above. If the reader > of this transmission is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified > that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is > strictly prohibited. > > If you have received this communication in error or are not sure whether it > is privileged, please immediately notify us by return e-mail and destroy any > copies, electronic, paper or otherwise, which you may have of this > communication. From Dave Carpenter From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 23:29:36 -0500 Subject: Re: Torque Wrench Dave Keith Pennell wrote: >Ron and Bob, > >I recently purchased the Craftsman 1/2 drive wrench that Bob mentions. I >don't feel you can go wrong there. Paid $60 as Bob says. > >Keith Pennell > > > > >>Ron, >> >> >>Sears sells fine torque wrenches and regularly puts them on sale. >>You can get them for under $60US with a Craftsmen's Club card. >> >>I have three: >> >>1/2" drive 20-150 ft-lb >>3/8" drive 10-75 ft-lb >>3/8" drive 25-250 in-lb >> >>For less than $150 you can get the 1/2" and the larger 3/8", which >>will cover just about everything you need. Theoretically, the 3/8" >>in-lb wrench range overlaps with the 1/2", but the higher range 3/8" >>comes in handy sometimes because it's shorter than the 1/2". >> >>If you only get one get the 1/2", which is suitable for most engine work. >> >>FWIW, we had a Sears wrench calibrated for aircraft work and it >>was spot-on. >> >> >>bs >>******************************************** >>Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net >>'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M >>******************************************** >> >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Ron Fine" >>To: "Healey List" ; >>Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 3:06 PM >>Subject: Torque Wrench >> >> >> >> >>>I need to buy an new torque wrench to work on my Healey and MGB. My old >>>one was a cheap one that gave up the ghost a long time ago. Any >>>suggestions? The torque wrenches I've seen can be divided into 3/8 inch >>>and 1/2 inch drive and between low torque range and higher torque range. >>> All are at least $150.00. Because of the anticipate cost I would like >>>to get as universal a wrench as possible to cover most or all of the >>>applications I will need it for in rebuilding my engines. Any >>>suggestions would be greatly appreciated. >>>Ron >>>61 BN7 >>>66 MGB From joe mulqueen From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 13:42:32 -0500 Subject: Question about welding in floor pans I've been battling the tin worm for some time, and am at the point where I'm welding in a new floor pan. When I removed what was left of the original, it appeared to be welded only every few inches. Are most folks installing like the factory, or welding along the entire seams? I would think welding all the way around might add some rigidity, if only slightly, and would help seal up the floor. Any comments will be appreciated. By the way, I'm planning on a driver and not a concours car, so I'm not too concerned about doing it exactly like the factory. Troy BT-7 Tri-carb __________________________________ Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now http://companion.yahoo.com/ From "Tim Davis" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 22:51:51 -0600 Subject: Tires fior 15" wheels From WilKo at aol.com From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 23:58:57 EST Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20Is=20this=20for=20real=3F=A0=20100S=20up=20?= Rick San Diego From "Reid Trummel" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 05:14:53 +0000 Subject: Re: Another success for the BJ8 Registry Congratulations on your ongoing excellent, excellent work with the BJ8 Registry. You have set a standard for hard-working, conscienous, dedicated registrars that is unlikely to ever be equaled. Please keep it up, and thank you for your service to the marque. Reid Trummel Portland, Oregon I was pulled over in Massachusetts for reckless driving. When brought before the judge, I was asked if I knew what the punishment for drunk driving in that state was. I said, "I don't know... reelection to the Senate?" -- Emo Philips >From: "BJ8Healeys" >Reply-To: "BJ8Healeys" >To: >Subject: Another success for the BJ8 Registry >Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:46:50 -0500 > >Hello, Healeyphiles - > >Last week, there was an original BJ8 engine serial number plate >(29K/RU/H14807) for sale on eBay. A BJ8 owner in New York notified me >about >the sale. As it happened, the BJ8 registry had a record of the car that >the >plate belonged to (and a copy of the BMIHT certificate), as well as a >record >of the current owner of the car. > >I sent e-mail to both the seller of the plate. to let him know that the car >to >which the plate belonged was known, and to the current owner to let them >know >of the sale. The seller responded that if the current owner of the car >would >get in touch with him, he would pull the tag from the auction and give it >to >the owner. Later I got a call from the owner, and I put the owner and >seller >in touch. The tag was pulled from the auction, and I presume that the tag >is >now on its way to be reunited with the original engine. > >At the risk of stating the obvious, the registries can provide a real >service >to the Healey communities if owners of the cars take the time to list them >and >their details with the registries. As of today, the BJ8 registry has a >record >of 4,665 individual BJ8s worldwide, and it's still growing at about 20 cars >per month. > >Happy Healeying! >Steve Byers >HBJ8L/36666 >BJ8 Registry >Havelock, NC USA _________________________________________________________________ Say goodbye to busy signals and slow downloads with a high-speed Internet connection! Prices start at less than $1 a day average. https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.) From joe mulqueen From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 21:05:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: 5 way brake ftg orientation __________________________________ Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now http://companion.yahoo.com/ From Blue One Hundred From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 22:05:20 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Tires fior 15" wheels Try a british wire wheel specialist, they'll have all sorts of options & advise for you: http://www.britishwirewheel.com/tires.htm or http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/tires.html Both of these companies are specialists in tires for british cars, Hendrix is actually a Healey specialist in this field (even better!) Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Tim Davis wrote: > I have just spent 1 hour searching the archives for > past recommendations on > tires. I found only one reply (Dunlop SP 20). I have > 15" 60 spoke wheels and > would like some other suggestions besides Dunlops. > Surely some of you have > other brands. Also if someone has informtion on how > to use the archives with > success I would be glad to listen. > Thanks > Tim Davis BN7 From Blue One Hundred From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 21:58:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Cape International has a whole suite of ready to install 100S products, including new grilles. www.cape-international.com No financial interest etc etc... Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Robert Tebbenhoff wrote: > Does anyone know who can make the grill for a 100S. > And I promise I would > not try to pass it off as a real car!!!!! > > _______________________________________________________ From "Jaap Aeckerlin" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 10:33:27 +0100 Subject: Originality From Jerry Wall From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 04:59:16 -0600 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay From "Gary R. Cox" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 06:02:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Another success for the BJ8 Registry You have set a standard for hard-working, conscienous, dedicated > registrars that is unlikely to ever be equaled. > > Reid Trummel > Portland, Oregon From "tom felts" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 08:04:45 -0500 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > [Original Message] > From: Dave Carpenter > To: > Cc: > Date: 11/24/03 9:55:55 PM > Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay > > Friends into Corvette restorations have told me there are more 1957 > Corvettes registered than were produced. This talk was also a subject in > the Antique Automobile Club of America newsletters a while back. Two > cars built from parts of a destroyed original one gets the chassis & > serial one gets the engine and running gear numbers, both impecable > work. Which one is the real one? > > Dave From "tom felts" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 08:09:18 -0500 Subject: Re: fire extinguisher Cheers Tom > [Original Message] > From: Blue One Hundred > To: Keith Pennell ; Dave & Marlene ; > Cc: > Date: 11/24/03 10:58:14 PM > Subject: Re: fire extinguisher > > Keith - > > Those of us who live in a big city know that keeping > an extinguisher behind the rear seat in a convertible > is... well... sure to make sure I will be buying > another extiguisher in very short order and hiding it > elsewhere! > > Somewhere under the dash, preferably reachable, is > best. Out of sight & probably won't get stolen... > PARTICULARLY if it's halon. > > Cheers, > > Alan > > '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 > --- Keith Pennell wrote: > > Dave, > > > > FWIW I feel the most likely fire location would be > > engine compartment. If > > you get a fire in the rear it is likely to be a > > really big one which will > > blow you away from the fire extinguisher! > > > > I keep mine just behind the passenger seat - no > > clamps to fuss with either! > > > > Keith Pennell From "HoYo" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 07:09:08 -0600 Subject: Re: Originality "See my > problem?" > Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands > 1964 BJ8 29432 > "See my > problem?" > Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands > 1964 BJ8 29432 From Bob Denton From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 09:15:52 -0800 Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay Take Florida, for example. A car that has been totalled can be sold to a dealer without any notations. My local Pontaic dealer brings up truckloads of totals from Florida, fixes them, and sells them as one owner cars on his lot. Dispicable, but not illegal. If you don't like the "R" on your title, just put the title in the desk drawer and file for a new one in Alabama or Nevada, by mail. No questions asked. For cars with lost titles, this is the easiest way. $175.00. No problem. tom felts wrote: >If I'm not mistaken, when you "re-construct" a car, say following a "total >loss", doesn't the title then reflect the car as an "R" car, for >re-constructed? Wouldn't this apply here--assuming the original was >totalled? > > > > >>[Original Message] >>From: Dave Carpenter >>To: >>Cc: >>Date: 11/24/03 9:55:55 PM >>Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay >> >>Friends into Corvette restorations have told me there are more 1957 >>Corvettes registered than were produced. This talk was also a subject in >>the Antique Automobile Club of America newsletters a while back. Two >>cars built from parts of a destroyed original one gets the chassis & serial one gets the engine and running gear numbers, both impecable >>work. Which one is the real one? >> >>Dave From William Moyer From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 09:31:37 -0500 Subject: RE: Originality So, originality had to be redefined because that standard was too exclusive and unrealistic. Now, for judging purposes, "originality" means numbered parts match and others are NOS, approved aftermarket parts and/or some safety upgrades. That means it is "like new", but not necessarily original in the previous sense. It doesn't even mean as it rolled off the salesroom floor because changes don't have to be done by the dealer to be acceptable. For value purposes "originality" means whatever the seller and buyer think it means and the two may never match, but they should talk about it. You aren't doing anything with your car that hasn't been done with many others. Bits and pieces were taken from here and there to create a new car. The percentage of old to new parts by weight, volume, number, value etc. all could be debated, but we all have different opinions about that so no universal agreement is possible. As to what you tell your government agency, that's up to you. I don't happen to think that it's any business of the government what I do, but that's just me. If I were to sell it, however, I'd tell the buyer the real history because I do think it's the buyer's business. In any event, I'd rather see another one on the road than in pieces, so go ahead and build it any way you can with whatever budget you've got and join the hundreds that have done the same. From "Bob Spidell" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 06:38:00 -0800 Subject: Re: Another success for the BJ8 Registry bs ******************************************** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M ******************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary R. Cox" To: ; Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 3:02 AM Subject: Re: Another success for the BJ8 Registry > Ditto !!! > > > > You have set a standard for hard-working, conscienous, dedicated > > registrars that is unlikely to ever be equaled. > > > > Reid Trummel > > Portland, Oregon From stoney bennett From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 06:46:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: Reconstructed car --------------------------------- Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now From "Thames, G. Troy" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 10:05:12 -0500 Subject: Question about welding in floor pans Troy BT-7 tri-carb CONFIDENTIAL & PRIVILEGED Unless otherwise indicated or obvious from the nature of the above communication, the information contained herein may be an attorney-client privileged and confidential information/work product. The communication is intended for the use of the individual or entity named above. If the reader of this transmission is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error or are not sure whether it is privileged, please immediately notify us by return e-mail and destroy any copies, electronic, paper or otherwise, which you may have of this communication. From "Brashear, Jack, N" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 09:33:12 -0600 Subject: Desperately need a side curtain bracket - BT7 Jack From Editorgary at aol.com From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 10:42:07 EST Subject: Tires for Healeys << I have just spent 1 hour searching the archives for past recommendations on tires. I found only one reply (Dunlop SP 20). I have 15" 60 spoke wheels and would like some other suggestions besides Dunlops. Surely some of you have other brands. Also if someone has informtion on how to use the archives with success I would be glad to listen. >> Hendrix, British Wire Wheel, Sasco Sports (all advertisers in Classic Motorsports) can offer various brands. Dunlop SP20s are gone, gone, gone. Too bad. However, talking to one of the sources, he reported that they have Avon 155,175, and 185s (the 155s with a 4.3inch width might be a good choice since they'd fit in the 100s. The 175s are 5 inches wide, and the 185s are 5.3 inches wide. All are 25 inches in diameter. Also, Michelins reportedly are available in X, XAS, and XZX in 155 and 165. Vredesteins are also available in 185, maybe in 165, but have a funny tread pattern. And then, if you don't care about speed ratings but are concerned about price, call one of the really big tire vendors and inquire about radial tires for VW (old) Beetles. (The originals were 155 or 165/15.) Cheers gary From gilmour at chesapeake.net From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 16:30:01 GMT Subject: Re: Is this for real? 100S up for sale on Ebay ------------------------------------------------------------------ This email message was sent using web-based email services provided by Chesapeake.Net Internet Services. http://www.chesapeake.net/ From David Nock From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 09:41:22 -0800 Subject: Re: Desperately need a side curtain bracket - BT7 > Hi All, I'm in dire need of the Left side Rear side curtain mounting > bracket for my BT7. The side curtains are the originals that came new > with the car. Sounds crazy, but I have two right hand rear brackets. > Can someone please help me out?? Please, please?? Thanks, > > Jack we have same used side curtain brackets. -- David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030 http://www.britishcarspecialists.com From "tom felts" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 14:46:07 -0500 Subject: Re: Another success for the BJ8 Registry tom > [Original Message] > From: Bob Spidell > To: Gary R. Cox ; ; > Date: 11/25/03 9:38:14 AM > Subject: Re: Another success for the BJ8 Registry > > Don't forget "persistent" ;) > > > bs > ******************************************** > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net > '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M > ******************************************** > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Gary R. Cox" > To: ; > Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 3:02 AM > Subject: Re: Another success for the BJ8 Registry > > > > Ditto !!! > > > > > > > > You have set a standard for hard-working, conscienous, dedicated > > > registrars that is unlikely to ever be equaled. > > > > > > Reid Trummel > > > Portland, Oregon From Jerry Wall From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 16:39:59 -0600 Subject: Re: Desperately need a side curtain bracket - BT7 From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 17:45:36 -0600 Subject: Mo Ma Address Can someone please supply me with Mo Ma address and phone numbers. Kind regards Ed Saskatoon, Saskatchewan '65 BJ8 '89 Morgan 4/4 From Pat & Gary Rice From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 16:37:13 -0800 Subject: RE: BT7 Side curtain bracket From Douglas W Flagg From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 20:40:29 -0500 Subject: Re: Old Chatter Magazines Regards, Doug ________________________________________________________________ From "Mick VanderPloeg" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 20:52:57 -0500 Subject: Re: Mo Ma Address ----- Original Message ----- From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" To: "Austin Healey list" Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 6:45 PM Subject: Mo Ma Address > Hi Fellows > > Can someone please supply me with Mo Ma address and phone numbers. > > Kind regards > Ed > Saskatoon, Saskatchewan > '65 BJ8 > '89 Morgan 4/4 From Blue One Hundred From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 18:22:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Originality It is hard to say, but it may very well be possible that your BJ8 originally had seperate indicator / stop lamps on the front and rear shrouds. The switch between the earlier single lamp BJ8s to later dual lamp BJ8s did not occur with a specific Chassis number, but occured with a specific Body Number - by most accounts body number 76137 . This switch occured in the factory on and off for a few months in '64(?)/'65, I gather. >From what I understand, the switch between bodies happened at Jensen, but Jensen shipped the bodies in haphazard sequence .... and the guys on the floor at Abingdon were putting two different body styles on BJ8s at the same time depending on what bodies Jensen had sent them (i.e. chassis numbers and body numbers are therefore not sequential with each other). I don't have Roger Moment's book in front of me, but I'm sure Steve Byers or Roger Moment can confirm these details better than I. Maybe I'm completely wrong here?? Regards, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 PS - will they honestly check the Tranmission numbers in the Netherlands?? --- Jaap Aeckerlin wrote: > Listers, > Have been reading the e-mails on 3610 with interest. > To keep your grey cells > going herewith my situation: > 2 years ago I bought a BJ8 phase 2 from a Dutch guy, > British Racing Green. Car > was completely dismantled by the previous owner who > imported the vehicle from > the USA in 1990. 1990 Florida title came with the > parts, car number on title > is 29432 and same number is shown on loose plate. > Engine, also dismantled, > carries no plate. Gearbox carries no plate. Rear > axle has a funny number. > Front shroud shows two openings for trafficators and > lights below headlamp. > Rear shroud shows openings for rear lights and > trafficators. Both changes took > place way after 29432 was built. > BMIHT certificate shows 29432 is/was Old English > White - my wreck is and has > always been green. > The shock absorber tower normally carrying the > VIN-number was apparently > replaced years ago - the car was in an appaling > condition and had suffered a > lot of damage. > My problem: when the restauration is finished the > vehicle will be subject to a > very thorough inspection by the Dutch Ministry of > Traffic before it is allowed > on the road and gets a 'classic car' number plate. > The only documents I have > are the official import document, issued by Dutch > customs in 1990, the Florida > title and the BMIHT certificate. The only way to get > my car through the > Government inspection will be to copy the numbers > from the BMIHT document to > the engine and the gearbox and rivet the (wrong) > plate with '29432' to the > firewall. It means a 'matching numbers' car will > appear on the road which is > one big fake. But I'll be very happy, once it runs, > and I have no intention of > selling it afterwards. But what my daughters will do > when I'm dead... See my > problem? > Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands > 1964 BJ8 29432 From "J. Scott Morris" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 21:33:08 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Mo Ma Address Alfa Instruments and Marine Services, 4801 Keele Street, Unit 37, Toronto, Ontario M3J 3A4 [416] 736-4267 c/o Ted Sapejia. Auto Instruments Martinsville, VA http://www.AutoInstruments.com D And M Restoration, Greenville, SC Mo-Ma Instrument Repair, 1321 2nd ST, NW, Albuquerque, NM, 87102; PH (505) 766-6661 FAX (505) 766-5419 E-MAIL: momanm@aol.com Talk to Margaret Lucas. She really knows Healeys, and worked for the LA, CA Healey factory distributor in the '60s. Nisonger Automotive, Mamoroneck, NY (888) 781-6968. http://www.cobracountry.com/nisonger/home.html Palo Alto Speedometer, Palo Alto, CA --- "M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote: << Hi Fellows Can someone please supply me with Mo Ma address and phone numbers. Kind regards Ed Saskatoon, Saskatchewan '65 BJ8 '89 Morgan 4/4 >> ===== J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives ______________________________________________________________________ Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca From GMari58175 at aol.com From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 07:42:06 EST Subject: Re: Mo Ma Address George Marinos Can someone please supply me with Mo Ma address and phone numbers From "3000mk3 at bighealey.org" <3000mk3@bighealey.org> From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 06:08:09 -0700 Subject: Healey and the Supra Transmission I'm looking for a Supra Transmission W58 transmission, drive shaft and rear mount. I've called around and "they" (so far three auto parts re-cyclers) say they need more specific information, that they can't just use the W58 designation. I did a little research and called them back with "Supra Transmission W58, supposed to have been installed into 1982-1998 Supra's, engines 7M-GE." They list a few other models that this transmission has been installed with, however all use the W58 (specific) transmission, drive shaft and rear mount. 1982-1998 Supra's, engines 7M-GE. There seems to be four positions for the shifter, yet from what I've read they will all work. I had to leave a voice mails at two of the three, the third was busy, the auto parts re-cyclers. Anyway so far no responses. I also called a someone I know who did this conversion while ago in the hopes he has still his paperwork, I'm waiting for him to get home from work Any chance someone can help, me in the meantime? Maybe I don't understand what they are asking. Here are the links I'm using, maybe that will help? http://www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/tech_toyota.html http://www4.tpgi.com.au/users/loats/technical/ma61/gearboxes.html BTW I'm converting my 1965 Austin Healey BJ8 to this transmission. BTW can I install the (machined modified) rear oil seal while I'm at it, without pulling the engine? Have a Happy Thanksgiving. ____________ _____________ (_______ \_______________/ ______ ) (____ Tom Mitchell ____) (SEM Austin Healey Club) (mailto:tommitchell@bighealey.org ) From "Brashear, Jack, N" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 10:06:08 -0600 Subject: RE: Healey and the Supra Transmission -----Original Message----- From: 3000mk3@bighealey.org [mailto:3000mk3@bighealey.org] Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2003 7:08 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Healey and the Supra Transmission I need your help, I'm getting ready to convert my transmission using the Smitty Supra conversion. My trans is leaking pretty bad and makes a lot of noise, so I have to do something. I'm looking for a Supra Transmission W58 transmission, drive shaft and rear mount. I've called around and "they" (so far three auto parts re-cyclers) say they need more specific information, that they can't just use the W58 designation. I did a little research and called them back with "Supra Transmission W58, supposed to have been installed into 1982-1998 Supra's, engines 7M-GE." They list a few other models that this transmission has been installed with, however all use the W58 (specific) transmission, drive shaft and rear mount. 1982-1998 Supra's, engines 7M-GE. There seems to be four positions for the shifter, yet from what I've read they will all work. I had to leave a voice mails at two of the three, the third was busy, the auto parts re-cyclers. Anyway so far no responses. I also called a someone I know who did this conversion while ago in the hopes he has still his paperwork, I'm waiting for him to get home from work Any chance someone can help, me in the meantime? Maybe I don't understand what they are asking. Here are the links I'm using, maybe that will help? http://www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/tech_toyota.html http://www4.tpgi.com.au/users/loats/technical/ma61/gearboxes.html BTW I'm converting my 1965 Austin Healey BJ8 to this transmission. BTW can I install the (machined modified) rear oil seal while I'm at it, without pulling the engine? Have a Happy Thanksgiving. ____________ _____________ (_______ \_______________/ ______ ) (____ Tom Mitchell ____) (SEM Austin Healey Club) (mailto:tommitchell@bighealey.org ) From "Lyle Matson" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 08:51:39 -0800 Subject: BJ8 Horsepower Curve Is horsepower curve information available for the stock 29K engine (BJ8). Dick / WA From Steve Gerow From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 09:28:34 -0800 Subject: Re: Healey and the Supra Transmission Tom wrote: > > I need your help, I'm getting ready to convert my transmission using the > Smitty Supra conversion. > My trans is leaking pretty bad and makes a lot of noise, so I have to do > something. Smitty has a great instruction manual which will answer most of your questions. Suggest you get the Smitty kit before worrying about these details. > > I'm looking for a Supra Transmission W58 transmission, drive shaft and > rear mount. > > I've called around and "they" (so far three auto parts re-cyclers) say > they need more specific information, that they can't just use the W58 > designation. I did a little research and called them back with "Supra > Transmission W58, supposed to have been installed into 1982-1998 Supra's, > engines 7M-GE." They list a few other models that this transmission has > been installed with, however all use the W58 (specific) transmission, > drive shaft and rear mount. 1982-1998 Supra's, engines 7M-GE. There > seems to be four positions for the shifter, yet from what I've read > they will all work. > The only surefire way is to find a yard where it's still attached to the engine. Otherwise they're all the same and don't have identifying model numbers anywhere on them. Ratios vary slightly. See the UK web site. You'll need a new drive shaft made--I had an independent do mine for around $125. Smitty includes plans for the driveshaft as well. I have a white paper with my and other's experiences installing available on Jim Werner's web site: http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html Toyota has 3 shifter positions, forward, middle and rear. Check with Smitty to see which is appropriate for the BJ8--that's the same kind of car he has. One of them goes through the stock console opening. > I had to leave a voice mails at two of the three, the third was busy, > the auto parts re-cyclers. Anyway so far no responses. > > I also called a someone I know who did this conversion while ago in the > hopes he has still his paperwork, I'm waiting for him to get home from > work > > Any chance someone can help, me in the meantime? > > Maybe I don't understand what they are asking. > > Here are the links I'm using, maybe that will help? > http://www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/tech_toyota.html this has pictures of the installation as well as gear ratios of various models. > http://www4.tpgi.com.au/users/loats/technical/ma61/gearboxes.html > > BTW I'm converting my 1965 Austin Healey BJ8 to this transmission. > BTW can I install the (machined modified) rear oil seal while I'm at it, > without pulling the engine? yes--it's easy. > > Have a Happy Thanksgiving. From Earl Kagna From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 10:00:48 -0800 Subject: Re: Healey and the Supra Transmission A lot of us have used the Toyota W55 trans for our Smitty conversions - much more common (and cheaper) at the auto wreckers. They are in the 2WD pickups - (can't remember exactly which years), as well as other Toyota's. The ratio's are slightly different than the W58 - the Australian web-site shows the numbers - mine came from a '91 2WD pickup and works well. If the trans you get has a middle or rear shift tower location, you can change to the forward location with parts from Toyota. This means that the shift lever will have to be bent much less in order to wind up centred in the hole. (at least that was the case on my BJ8) Also, if the transmission that you wind up with is a later one (I think '92 and later), and has the electronic speedometer output, you will have to change to the earlier cable speedo output with parts from Toyota. I didn't like the overall ratio's in my BJ8 at first, with the original 3:91 rear axle ratio - I changed to the 3:54 diffential right away, and the gearing is now perfect, and the speedometer is accurate enough without recalibration. I have thought of trying a W58 just for the hell of it, so I can tell the gearing difference from the W55, but have not done so as of yet, so can't really comment. Maybe I'll get that project underway now - the car is apart for a full restoration. Smitty's instruction manual that he ships with the kit will explain all of this stuff for you - it's quite good. The rear main seal kit that you refer to can be installed with the engine in the car (6cyl Healeys only) - the rear plate has to come off the engine and be machined to clear the new seal housing. The ideal time to do this is when you're already most of the way there with the Smitty kit being installed - just take off the flywheel to get to the plate. Again, the seal kit instructions are pretty good, and come with a pattern for the machine shop to follow in modifying the plate. You will need a rear plate gasket for re-installation - last time I checked BCS in Stockton had them available separately for this purpose. Earl Kagna Victoria, B. C. Canada '62 BT7 tri-carb '67 BJ8 - (Smitty W55 conversion, 3:54 diff, and rear main seal kit installed) ----- Original Message ----- From: <3000mk3@bighealey.org> To: Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2003 5:08 AM Subject: Healey and the Supra Transmission I need your help, I'm getting ready to convert my transmission using the Smitty Supra conversion. My trans is leaking pretty bad and makes a lot of noise, so I have to do something. I'm looking for a Supra Transmission W58 transmission, drive shaft and rear mount. I've called around and "they" (so far three auto parts re-cyclers) say they need more specific information, that they can't just use the W58 designation. I did a little research and called them back with "Supra Transmission W58, supposed to have been installed into 1982-1998 Supra's, engines 7M-GE." They list a few other models that this transmission has been installed with, however all use the W58 (specific) transmission, drive shaft and rear mount. 1982-1998 Supra's, engines 7M-GE. There seems to be four positions for the shifter, yet from what I've read they will all work. I had to leave a voice mails at two of the three, the third was busy, the auto parts re-cyclers. Anyway so far no responses. I also called a someone I know who did this conversion while ago in the hopes he has still his paperwork, I'm waiting for him to get home from work Any chance someone can help, me in the meantime? Maybe I don't understand what they are asking. Here are the links I'm using, maybe that will help? http://www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/tech_toyota.html http://www4.tpgi.com.au/users/loats/technical/ma61/gearboxes.html BTW I'm converting my 1965 Austin Healey BJ8 to this transmission. BTW can I install the (machined modified) rear oil seal while I'm at it, without pulling the engine? Have a Happy Thanksgiving. ____________ _____________ (_______ \_______________/ ______ ) (____ Tom Mitchell ____) (SEM Austin Healey Club) (mailto:tommitchell@bighealey.org ) From Andrew Shrimpton From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 08:16:32 +1300 Subject: Brake Calipers - Austin Princess Thanks Andrew Shrimpton New Zealand BT7 From "Carlos Cruz" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 14:05:19 -0600 Subject: Happy Turkey Day to All Just wanted to wish you all a Happy Thanksgiving before I check out for a few days. Don't eat too much and try to keep the rubber side down. Giving Thanks for this List, Carlos Cruz _________________________________________________________________ Share holiday photos without swamping your Inbox. Get MSN Extra Storage now! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From "Patton Dickson" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 14:31:50 -0600 Subject: Low Power I took it out today, but it seems to lack power. It revs smoothly, but doesn't have any get up and go. Top speed seems to be about 50. It was running better than this a couple of weeks ago when I had it out, any obvious suggestions as to where to start, carbs or electrics? I still had a great time driving it this afternoon!!! Thanks Patton ------------------------------------- Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX 1957 Austin-Healey BN4 Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/ For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert From Dave & Marlene From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 15:22:37 -0700 Subject: Re: Low Power Dave Russell Patton Dickson wrote: > I put the exhaust on the BN4 last weekend, but a big cold front came through > and I didn't get to drive it except for around the block. > > I took it out today, but it seems to lack power. It revs smoothly, but > doesn't have any get up and go. Top speed seems to be about 50. It was > running better than this a couple of weeks ago when I had it out, any > obvious suggestions as to where to start, carbs or electrics? > > I still had a great time driving it this afternoon!!! > > Thanks > Patton From "HoYo" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 16:57:28 -0600 Subject: Re: Low Power ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave & Marlene" To: "Patton Dickson" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2003 4:22 PM Subject: Re: Low Power > Retarded timing? > > Dave Russell > > Patton Dickson wrote: > > I put the exhaust on the BN4 last weekend, but a big cold front came through > > and I didn't get to drive it except for around the block. > > > > I took it out today, but it seems to lack power. It revs smoothly, but > > doesn't have any get up and go. Top speed seems to be about 50. It was > > running better than this a couple of weeks ago when I had it out, any > > obvious suggestions as to where to start, carbs or electrics? > > > > I still had a great time driving it this afternoon!!! > > > > Thanks > > Patton From "Freese, Ken" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 15:01:51 -0800 Subject: TR7 jab From "John Rowe" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 07:04:33 +0800 Subject: Re: Brake Calipers - Austin Princess the brakes from an Escort bolt on but you have to use a rotor from a BJ8. You only need a washer spacer to align them. You can then use EBC 'green stuff' brake pads. Works very well. Regards John Rowe Perth Western Australia 1959 BT7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Shrimpton" To: "Healey List" Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2003 3:16 AM Subject: Brake Calipers - Austin Princess > I have heard that Austin Princess brake calipers will bolt straight on > to the front of a BT7. Can anyone confirm this and is there any > particular model Princess that is the desired donor car? > > Thanks > > Andrew Shrimpton > New Zealand > BT7 From "Chris Masucci" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 17:32:36 -0600 Subject: Re: Healey and the Supra Transmission FWIW, are you sure that you didn't mean 1982-1988 or maybe 1992? The 1993.5-1998 Supras used the 2JZ-GTE (turbo) or 2JZ-GE (NA) engines, and used a Getrag V160 tranny. The older MKII Supra used the 7M-GE (NA) or 7M-GTE (turbo) engines as you stated, and probably have the tranny you're looking for. Cheers, Chris BJ8 > > I've called around and "they" (so far three auto parts re-cyclers) say > they need more specific information, that they can't just use the W58 > designation. I did a little research and called them back with "Supra > Transmission W58, supposed to have been installed into 1982-1998 Supra's, > engines 7M-GE." They list a few other models that this transmission has > been installed with, however all use the W58 (specific) transmission, > drive shaft and rear mount. 1982-1998 Supra's, engines 7M-GE. There > seems to be four positions for the shifter, yet from what I've read > they will all work. From "bjcap" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 21:13:18 -0500 Subject: welding floor pans Carroll Top Down Restorations From "scott willis" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 20:22:01 -0600 Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys >From: Editorgary@aol.com >Reply-To: Editorgary@aol.com >To: healeys@autox.team.net >Subject: Tires for Healeys >Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 10:42:07 EST > >In a message dated 11/25/03 5:08:38 AM, owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net >writes: > ><< >I have just spent 1 hour searching the archives for past recommendations on >tires. I found only one reply (Dunlop SP 20). I have 15" 60 spoke wheels >and >would like some other suggestions besides Dunlops. Surely some of you have >other brands. Also if someone has informtion on how to use the archives >with >success I would be glad to listen. >> > >Hendrix, British Wire Wheel, Sasco Sports (all advertisers in Classic >Motorsports) can offer various brands. Dunlop SP20s are gone, gone, gone. >Too bad. >However, talking to one of the sources, he reported that they have Avon >155,175, and 185s (the 155s with a 4.3inch width might be a good choice >since they'd >fit in the 100s. The 175s are 5 inches wide, and the 185s are 5.3 inches >wide. >All are 25 inches in diameter. >Also, Michelins reportedly are available in X, XAS, and XZX in 155 and 165. >Vredesteins are also available in 185, maybe in 165, but have a funny tread >pattern. >And then, if you don't care about speed ratings but are concerned about >price, call one of the really big tire vendors and inquire about radial >tires for >VW (old) Beetles. (The originals were 155 or 165/15.) > >Cheers >gary > >*** _________________________________________________________________ Need a shot of Hank Williams or Patsy Cline? The classic country stars are always singing on MSN Radio Plus. Try one month free! From "Bob Spidell" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 19:30:38 -0800 Subject: Re: Low Power bs ******************************************** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M ******************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patton Dickson" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2003 12:31 PM Subject: Low Power > I put the exhaust on the BN4 last weekend, but a big cold front came through > and I didn't get to drive it except for around the block. > > I took it out today, but it seems to lack power. It revs smoothly, but > doesn't have any get up and go. Top speed seems to be about 50. It was > running better than this a couple of weeks ago when I had it out, any > obvious suggestions as to where to start, carbs or electrics? > > I still had a great time driving it this afternoon!!! > > Thanks > Patton > > ------------------------------------- > Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX > 1957 Austin-Healey BN4 > Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/ From "AH102" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 23:37:25 -0500 Subject: Just a test .....delete From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 09:06:06 -0600 Subject: Nash/Healeys-- FYI Never seen one up close but they look pretty cool. Just passing it along, Mark, 58-MGA 60-MGA 76-MGB 74.5-MGBGT 60-BT7 From Douglas W Flagg From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 09:30:18 -0500 Subject: re:eye surgery Happy Healeying, Doug ________________________________________________________________ From DLthm at aol.com From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 09:41:38 EST Subject: Email change Kind regards Dave 53 BN1 From "Tim Davis" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 10:17:49 -0600 Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys Happy Turkey Day Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 9:42 AM Subject: Tires for Healeys > In a message dated 11/25/03 5:08:38 AM, owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net > writes: > > << > I have just spent 1 hour searching the archives for past recommendations on > tires. I found only one reply (Dunlop SP 20). I have 15" 60 spoke wheels and > would like some other suggestions besides Dunlops. Surely some of you have > other brands. Also if someone has informtion on how to use the archives with > success I would be glad to listen. >> > > Hendrix, British Wire Wheel, Sasco Sports (all advertisers in Classic > Motorsports) can offer various brands. Dunlop SP20s are gone, gone, gone. Too bad. > However, talking to one of the sources, he reported that they have Avon > 155,175, and 185s (the 155s with a 4.3inch width might be a good choice since they'd > fit in the 100s. The 175s are 5 inches wide, and the 185s are 5.3 inches wide. > All are 25 inches in diameter. > Also, Michelins reportedly are available in X, XAS, and XZX in 155 and 165. > Vredesteins are also available in 185, maybe in 165, but have a funny tread > pattern. > And then, if you don't care about speed ratings but are concerned about > price, call one of the really big tire vendors and inquire about radial tires for > VW (old) Beetles. (The originals were 155 or 165/15.) > > Cheers > gary From Editorgary at aol.com From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 12:19:38 EST Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys << I ended up getting the VW type tires from PEP Boys for $27 each they also claim that they can mount them on wire wheels w/o damage. They are radials made by Cooper tires (tire name is Enduro or close) and have 40K rating. >> I would be very cautious about that -- they may be able to fit them without damaging your wire wheels, but it's unlikely that they have the proper center hub fitting to balance them properly. Before mounting them, check with your local club to see if there's a shop in the area that has the proper mounting adaptors on its wheel balancer to get them balanced properly. Even before you mount them, you should check your wire wheels for run-out (uneven rims) and be sure that your wheel and hub splines are in good condition. Cheers Gary Anderson editor, Classic Motorsports Magazine From Brian N From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 09:36:32 -0800 Subject: Blocked Exhaust=Low Power...War Story The double wall section of the exhaust rusted out enough to collapse and lodge at the inlet to the muffler. Anything loose inside the system can potentially do this, so the possibility should not be overlooked. The operating conditions were this: The engine would idle very normally, even drive a very low speed with no problem. Opening throttle moderately would cause stalling and fuel air mixture spitting back through the carburetor. We were baffled for a long time. Finally I took a hack saw and cut the exhaust pipe forward of the muffler. Problem solved. (loudly). Midas was the next stop. Hope this helps anyone who has a similar situation. It does happen. Brian N http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg From "James Lea" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 13:12:07 -0500 Subject: Magazine (Was Tires for Healeys) James Lea Rockport Maine 1962 BT7 II From "Alex" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 13:34:51 -0500 Subject: GW Alex From "Tim Davis" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 13:30:56 -0600 Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2003 11:19 AM Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys > > In a message dated 11/27/03 8:33:24 AM, tld6008@mchsi.com writes: > > << I ended up getting > > the VW type tires from PEP Boys for $27 each they also claim that they can > > mount them on wire wheels w/o damage. They are radials made by Cooper tires > > (tire name is Enduro or close) and have 40K rating. >> > > I would be very cautious about that -- they may be able to fit them without > damaging your wire wheels, but it's unlikely that they have the proper center > hub fitting to balance them properly. Before mounting them, check with your > local club to see if there's a shop in the area that has the proper mounting > adaptors on its wheel balancer to get them balanced properly. Even before you > mount them, you should check your wire wheels for run-out (uneven rims) and be > sure that your wheel and hub splines are in good condition. > > Cheers > Gary Anderson > editor, Classic Motorsports Magazine From "BJ8Healeys" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 17:50:39 -0500 Subject: Paging Jerry Rude Thanks, Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC From "Alex" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 20:15:18 -0500 Subject: Last great day of the New England season? Happy Thanksgiving to all! == Alex in Maine 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie" Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8 Amateur Radio AI2Q http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm .-.-. From "Kent McLean" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 21:41:15 -0500 Subject: Re: Originality Hopefully they will never sell the car as it carries fond memories of the times they shared with their father driving it. Kent From "Keith Pennell" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 23:28:56 -0500 Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys Did you get the BN7 wood bow or the BT7 wood bow? I am told they are different but not sure what the difference is. Keith Pennell > Thanks to all repliers regarding the tire size subject. I ended up getting > the VW type tires from PEP Boys for $27 each they also claim that they can > mount them on wire wheels w/o damage. They are radials made by Cooper tires > (tire name is Enduro or close) and have 40K rating. This fits my budget > nicely. I just had the soft top installed and there is a 1" gap in the > center of the windshield. I even bought a new wood bow from Moss, I > deffinately won't be driving in the rain. > > Happy Turkey Day > > Tim Davis BN7 From WilKo at aol.com From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 23:37:40 EST Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys Rick San Diego In a message dated 11/27/03 8:30:58 PM, pennell@cox.net writes: > I am told they are > different but not sure what the difference is. From Blue One Hundred From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 22:06:34 -0800 (PST) Subject: Early BN1 Wire Wheel Questions & Broken Tach Just an oddball question that I've had in the back of my mind for a while... My '53 BN1 (about #700) has two slightly different types of wire wheels on it. They are all silver painted 48 spoke 15" rims. The two front wheels - the center hub's outer rim has a very flat profile compared to a normal dunlop wire wheel's center hub. The two rear wheels' center hubs have the more normal convex shaped outer rim, which you see on most Healeys. My question is - which came original on the car? My guess is the flat ones... can someone shed some light on this? If it is the flat ones, does anyone know where I can get these type of centre hubs for my wire wheels? Are they expensive?? Also, my BN1's Tach just broke (needle went to maximum value and is now stuck there). Should I send it to Mo Ma or is there some other suggestion? How's the quality of work? Thanks, Alan '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 From "Quinn, Patrick" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 17:28:59 +1100 Subject: Blatant Marketing In between reading about pseudo 100Ss I have watched with interest Reid's blatant marketing of his original Austin-Healey tools and grease guns plus the initial copies of Safety Fast. I have no doubt that Reid is purely unselfish in his outlook and only wishes to improve the presentation of Austin-Healeys at concours across the US if not the world. In fact I am so touched by Reid's philanthropic gestures to his fellow Austin-Healey owners that I thought I would assist him in his quest. I have listed two items on Ebay at the moment that will assist in the presentation at Concours. One is a Donald Healey Motor Company sticker that will look great on the inside of your hard top while the other is a British tax disc holder with the words Donald Healey Motor Company Ltd, Warwick 41235 printed on it. There is also a third item and you may even be interested in a Laycock de Normanville overdrive brochure that could be shown with your gold level 100. We don't celebrate Thanksgiving in Australia but allowing my fellow Austin-Healey owners to know about these items has just made me feel warm inside. The Ebay address are: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2444854413&categor y=31261&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2444334418&categor y=31261&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2444904666&categor y=32080&rd=1 Cheers to you all Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia ********************************************************************** This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain privileged information or confidential information or both. If you are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender. ********************************************************************** From eyera3 at comcast.net From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 06:36:51 +0000 Subject: Re: Blatant Marketing -- Ira Erbs Digs-4 Solutions For training,network,PC and Macintosh "Pretty much everything will come to him who hustles while he waits." - Thomas Alva Edison > G'day > > In between reading about pseudo 100Ss I have watched with interest > Reid's blatant marketing of his original Austin-Healey tools and grease > guns plus the initial copies of Safety Fast. > > I have no doubt that Reid is purely unselfish in his outlook and only > wishes to improve the presentation of Austin-Healeys at concours across > the US if not the world. > > In fact I am so touched by Reid's philanthropic gestures to his fellow > Austin-Healey owners that I thought I would assist him in his quest. > > I have listed two items on Ebay at the moment that will assist in the > presentation at Concours. One is a Donald Healey Motor Company sticker > that will look great on the inside of your hard top while the other is a > British tax disc holder with the words Donald Healey Motor Company Ltd, > Warwick 41235 printed on it. There is also a third item and you may even > be interested in a Laycock de Normanville overdrive brochure that could > be shown with your gold level 100. > > We don't celebrate Thanksgiving in Australia but allowing my fellow > Austin-Healey owners to know about these items has just made me feel > warm inside. > > The Ebay address are: From SMickel950 at aol.com From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 02:57:19 EST Subject: Re: Early BN1 Wire Wheel Questions According to Roger Moment, my car (BN1L-156610) came with the earlier "flat" center hubs. I don't know when the wheels were upgraded to the stronger dished hubs, but your car is quite a bit earlier than mine and should have been stock with the flatter style hubs. I managed to collect six of the flat hub style wheels back when I was thinking of a Concours restoration about two years ago. Since then I have only seen one auction on eBay for the early style wheels, so I assume they are fairly rare/hard to find. Unless you're thinking of going Concours, I'd recommend that you upgrade your two old wheels for safer driving. Regards. Steve Mickelson In a message dated 11/27/2003 10:14:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, international_investor@yahoo.com writes: > My '53 BN1 (about #700) has two slightly different > types of wire wheels on it. They are all silver > painted 48 spoke 15" rims. > > The two front wheels - the center hub's outer rim has > a very flat profile compared to a normal dunlop wire > wheel's center hub. The two rear wheels' center hubs > have the more normal convex shaped outer rim, which > you see on most Healeys. > > My question is - which came original on the car? My > guess is the flat ones... can someone shed some light > on this? If it is the flat ones, does anyone know > where I can get these type of centre hubs for my wire > wheels? Are they expensive?? From Larry Varley From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 22:55:05 +1100 Subject: Update to Healey Site From "Rich C" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 09:22:40 -0500 Subject: Re: Early BN1 Wire Wheel Questions & Broken Tach ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blue One Hundred" To: Sent: Friday, November 28, 2003 1:06 AM Subject: Early BN1 Wire Wheel Questions & Broken Tach > Hi - > > Just an oddball question that I've had in the back of > my mind for a while... > > My '53 BN1 (about #700) has two slightly different > types of wire wheels on it. They are all silver > painted 48 spoke 15" rims. > > The two front wheels - the center hub's outer rim has > a very flat profile compared to a normal dunlop wire > wheel's center hub. The two rear wheels' center hubs > have the more normal convex shaped outer rim, which > you see on most Healeys. > > My question is - which came original on the car? My > guess is the flat ones... can someone shed some light > on this? If it is the flat ones, does anyone know > where I can get these type of centre hubs for my wire > wheels? Are they expensive?? > > Also, my BN1's Tach just broke (needle went to maximum > value and is now stuck there). Should I send it to Mo > Ma or is there some other suggestion? How's the > quality of work? > > Thanks, > > Alan From "Ron Davies" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 07:27:01 -0800 Subject: RE: Tires for Healeys Before mounting them, check with your local club to see if there's a shop in the area that has the proper mounting adaptors on its wheel balancer to get them balanced properly. From "Tim Davis" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 10:20:06 -0600 Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Keith Pennell" To: "Tim Davis" ; ; Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2003 10:28 PM Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys > Tim, > > Did you get the BN7 wood bow or the BT7 wood bow? I am told they are > different but not sure what the difference is. > > Keith Pennell > > > > Thanks to all repliers regarding the tire size subject. I ended up getting > > the VW type tires from PEP Boys for $27 each they also claim that they can > > mount them on wire wheels w/o damage. They are radials made by Cooper > tires > > (tire name is Enduro or close) and have 40K rating. This fits my budget > > nicely. I just had the soft top installed and there is a 1" gap in the > > center of the windshield. I even bought a new wood bow from Moss, I > > deffinately won't be driving in the rain. > > > > Happy Turkey Day > > > > Tim Davis BN7 From "Tim Davis" From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 10:25:42 -0600 Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys A BN6-7 wood piece attaches to the metal frame that reaches the windscreen. Rick San Diego In a message dated 11/27/03 8:30:58 PM, pennell@cox.net writes: I am told they are different but not sure what the difference is. From WilKo at aol.com From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 12:16:33 EST Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys (top bows) Rick San Diego In a message dated 11/28/03 8:48:45 AM, tld6008@mchsi.com writes: > > I don't quite understand what you mean. Could you elaborate a bit? I also > have a BT7 but its hard top is on it right now and the soft top is trashed but > I will try to compare. > > Thanks, > > Tim Davis BN7 (except top bow) From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim) From: "Thames, G. Troy" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 18:28:21 +0100 Subject: The Cape-international website down? just wondering if the website of http://www.cape-international.com is down? Or new URL? Tried to access it every day of this week - get just a blank white page. Is this my IE? No other problems with websites. Thanks and best regards Martin Germany From "Larry Mercier" From: "Helga & Martin Heim" To: "Healey list" Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 13:11:01 -0500 Subject: The Cape-international website down? > Hi listers, > > just wondering if the website of http://www.cape-international.com is down? > Or new URL? > Tried to access it every day of this week - get just a blank white page. Is > this my IE? > No other problems with websites. > > Thanks and best regards > > Martin > Germany From "J. Scott Morris" From: "Helga & Martin Heim" To: "Healey list" Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 13:13:46 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: The Cape-international website down? --- Helga & Martin Heim wrote: << Hi listers, just wondering if the website of http://www.cape-international.com is down? Or new URL? Tried to access it every day of this week - get just a blank white page. Is this my IE? No other problems with websites. Thanks and best regards Martin Germany >> ===== J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives ______________________________________________________________________ Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca From "Michael Salter" From: "Helga & Martin Heim" To: "Healey list" Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 13:28:17 -0500 Subject: RE: The Cape-international website down? Michael Salter www.precisionsportscar.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Helga & Martin Heim Sent: Friday, November 28, 2003 12:28 PM To: Healey list Subject: The Cape-international website down? Hi listers, just wondering if the website of http://www.cape-international.com is down? Or new URL? Tried to access it every day of this week - get just a blank white page. Is this my IE? No other problems with websites. Thanks and best regards Martin Germany Express yourself with over 4,000 FREE Email Smileys - click here! From Healeyolic From: "Helga & Martin Heim" To: "Healey list" Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 13:30:12 -0500 Subject: Re: The Cape-international website down? John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Helga & Martin Heim" To: "Healey list" Sent: Friday, November 28, 2003 12:28 PM Subject: The Cape-international website down? | Hi listers, | | just wondering if the website of http://www.cape-international.com is down? | Or new URL? | Tried to access it every day of this week - get just a blank white page. Is | this my IE? | No other problems with websites. | | Thanks and best regards | | Martin | Germany | From "Ron Davies" From: "Helga & Martin Heim" To: "Healey list" Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 10:43:27 -0800 Subject: RE: Tires for Healeys Ron -----Original Message----- From: Ron Fine [mailto:RonFineEsq@earthlink.net] Sent: Friday, November 28, 2003 10:20 AM To: Ron Davies Cc: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys Ron, I would like to know the name and phone number or address of the shop you located in the Valley to do this work. I live in West L.A. and I have been looking for some place to have my wheels balanced correctly. Ron Fine From "Ron Davies" From: "Helga & Martin Heim" To: "Healey list" Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 10:45:44 -0800 Subject: RE: The Cape-international website down? From "J. Scott Morris" From: "Helga & Martin Heim" To: "Healey list" Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 14:06:17 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys --- Keith Pennell wrote: << Tim, Did you get the BN7 wood bow or the BT7 wood bow? I am told they are different but not sure what the difference is. Keith Pennell >> ===== J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives ______________________________________________________________________ Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca From tld6008 at mchsi.com From: "Helga & Martin Heim" To: "Healey list" Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 20:20:31 +0000 Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys Tim Davis BN7 > > In a message dated 11/28/03 8:33:41 AM, tld6008@mchsi.com writes: > > << Moss only has one for 6 cylinders pre BJ7 or 8. I now see that Brithish Car > > Specialists list a choice between BT7 and BN7. I would have thought the bow > > should have had the same shape since the windshield is the same. At least I > > think it is. > > > Tim Davis BN7 >> > > Clearly someone is confused at Moss. Though the windshield is the same shape, > the BN7 and BT7 cross-bows are very different, since the BN7 has the > "scissors" attachment between the rear top bows and the windshield bow, and the > BT7 > has no connection, so it fastens to the windshield in a different manner. > British Car Specialists can make sure you get the right one. > Cheers > Gary From "Greg Lemon" From: "Helga & Martin Heim" To: "Healey list" Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 14:36:35 -0600 Subject: Re: Early BN1 Wire Wheel Questions & Broken Tach Greg Lemon 54 BN1 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich C" To: "Blue One Hundred" ; Sent: Friday, November 28, 2003 8:22 AM Subject: Re: Early BN1 Wire Wheel Questions & Broken Tach > Alan, > Modified road wheels with stronger hub sections were introduced in August > 1954 at car/chassis 159802. Your flatter hub wheels would have been original > for the car. I am not aware of their availability, however Dayton Wheel will > rebuild yours as needed with all new spokes as long as the hubs and rims are > in good condition. > See Blair Harbers note in Larry Varley's site re the first production > Hundred, chassis #138031. He had his all rebuilt by Dayton. Nice job, not > cheap, but the colour was off, a little too dark a silver. I saw them when > he got them back from Dayton and they looked absolutely new. > I don't recall the exact amount, but easily more than the cost of new > wheels. I think it was in the area of $200 to 300 apiece. It depends what > you want. It was a significant item on a noteworthy car, so he went for > doing it right. > My BN1 is a July '54 car, and I have all these original wheels, and plan to > eventually get them rebuilt and mounted on the Dunlop Roadspeeds. I'll > probably use them primarily for show, though I don't plan to use the car for > gymkhanas or such. > Rich Chrysler. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Blue One Hundred" > To: > Sent: Friday, November 28, 2003 1:06 AM > Subject: Early BN1 Wire Wheel Questions & Broken Tach > > > > Hi - > > > > Just an oddball question that I've had in the back of > > my mind for a while... > > > > My '53 BN1 (about #700) has two slightly different > > types of wire wheels on it. They are all silver > > painted 48 spoke 15" rims. > > > > The two front wheels - the center hub's outer rim has > > a very flat profile compared to a normal dunlop wire > > wheel's center hub. The two rear wheels' center hubs > > have the more normal convex shaped outer rim, which > > you see on most Healeys. > > > > My question is - which came original on the car? My > > guess is the flat ones... can someone shed some light > > on this? If it is the flat ones, does anyone know > > where I can get these type of centre hubs for my wire > > wheels? Are they expensive?? > > > > Also, my BN1's Tach just broke (needle went to maximum > > value and is now stuck there). Should I send it to Mo > > Ma or is there some other suggestion? How's the > > quality of work? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Alan From "James Lea" From: "Helga & Martin Heim" To: "Healey list" Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 16:02:26 -0500 Subject: Friday joke. LBC related A week later the guy is back: "Doc, still no movement!" The doctor says, "Hmm, guess you need something stronger," and prescribes a powerful laxative. Still another week later the poor guy is back: "Doc, STILL nothing!" The doctor, worried, says, "We'd better get some more information about you to try to figure out what's going on. What do you do for a living?" I repair English cars. The doctor looks up and says, "Well, that's it! Here's $10.00. Go get something to eat!" JL From "timothy bolish" From: "Helga & Martin Heim" To: "Healey list" Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 16:22:38 -0500 Subject: BN1 Dunlop or Dayton Wheels According to the Concours Registry the wheels should be Dunlop not Dayton wheels unless I'm misreading it. The flat hub 48 spoke wheels for the early BN1 are they Dayton wheels and if they are is the Concours Registry wrong? Thanks Tim [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of Blank Bkgrd.gif] From tld6008 at mchsi.com From: "Helga & Martin Heim" To: "Healey list" Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 22:31:19 +0000 Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys (top bows) Tim Davis BN7 > The top frames for the BN6 and BN7 have a full metal frame that folds to meet > the windscreen, but the top bows for the BN4 and BT7 have a main bow, then > one bow that hinges forward and one that hinges toward the back. the everflex > top then holds the front bow completely separate from the frame. To erect the > top the bows are installed, then the front wooden bow is lifted and pulled > forward to the screen. The only thing holding that wooden bow is the everflex > (vinyl). > See picture in Anderson/Moment's Restoration Guide page 122. That > illustration is in a BN4, but the top is the same. > Here's a question. I've got an original hardtop, and you have a hardtop. Is > the winlace trim in one or three pieces? For some reason all the experts say > three pieces, and that's what they sell. I liked the look of my original one > piece, nut it's thrashed from age. > > Rick > San Diego > > > In a message dated 11/28/03 8:48:45 AM, tld6008@mchsi.com writes: > > > > > > I don't quite understand what you mean. Could you elaborate a bit? I also > > have a BT7 but its hard top is on it right now and the soft top is trashed > but > > I will try to compare. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Tim Davis BN7 (except top bow) From "Rich C" From: "timothy bolish" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 18:19:32 -0500 Subject: BN1 Dunlop or Dayton Wheels > I have a question as to the post's about the early BN1 up to 159801 with > the flat hub 48 spoke wheels? > > According to the Concours Registry the wheels should be Dunlop not Dayton > wheels unless I'm misreading it. The flat hub 48 spoke wheels for the early > BN1 are they Dayton wheels and if they are is the Concours Registry wrong? > > Thanks > Tim From "Rich C" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 18:39:21 -0500 Subject: Re: Early BN1 Wire Wheel Questions & Broken Tach Greg, Just for your info. the alloy boot lid was replaced with steel as of June '54 at car 158100, body#4129. As for the early style wheels, I can't come up with pictures that would show the difference on a screen, but if you compare the base of the hub portion of the wheel, the early one has more of a pronounced perimeter flange, but as you move toward the centre of the hub, the raised profile is much shallower or lower, i.e. not as deep a pressing. In contrast, the later hub portion has a much higher profile at this location giving a stronger shape to the hub. Clear as mud? Rich Chrysler From "Ron Davies" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 17:04:26 -0800 Subject: program on TV On the Left Coast, USA on my cox cable History Channel International ch 325 from 0100-0200hrs Sat morning, there is a program on "The Austin Healey 3000". Ronald Davies, DDS Anesthesiology for Dentistry www.DentalAnesthesia.com From "Joe Farley" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 17:41:31 -0800 Subject: RE: program on TV http://store.aetv.com/html/product/index.jhtml?id=40099 ============================================= Joe@Farley.net '66 BJ8 '77 C77/R @ DVO NIL DESPERANDVM ET ILLIGITIMVM CABERVNDON EL MONDO ============================================= -----Original Message----- FYI On the Left Coast, USA on my cox cable History Channel International ch 325 from 0100-0200hrs Sat morning, there is a program on "The Austin Healey 3000". Ronald Davies, DDS Anesthesiology for Dentistry From Franck Vigneron From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 21:40:04 -0800 (PST) Subject: Fuel Tank Question Question. I am wondering if it is clogged or if the line is constructed in a way that fuel or air can only come from inside out and not inside in. (1) is this correct? (2) how can I verify if it is clogged? (3) how can I unclogged the line? Thank you, Franck P.S. Should I mention that I have used the white cream that is sold to restore the inside of tank. This was a mistage. Right! __________________________________ Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree From John Harper From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 08:44:28 +0000 Subject: Re: Early BN1 Wire Wheel Questions & Broken Tach This is all clearly explained and illustrated in Austin Service Journal Volume 24 - Cars - Wheels 5. I will try and put this up on our WEB site. If I do I will let you know. All the best >Anyone have a picture that shows the difference between the early and later >48 spoke wheel?, probably kind of hard to illustrate. I have 4 48 spoke >wheels from my 100 when I bought it, I don't think they are the original >early type, but can't tell for sure without something to compare them to. >They are not currently in use but I still have them. Car was built before >August 54, but some features it should have it doesn't such as aluminum >bootlid, so some items must have been replaced in the restoration done years >ago. > >Greg Lemon >54 BN1 > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Rich C" >To: "Blue One Hundred" ; > >Sent: Friday, November 28, 2003 8:22 AM >Subject: Re: Early BN1 Wire Wheel Questions & Broken Tach > > >> Alan, >> Modified road wheels with stronger hub sections were introduced in August >> 1954 at car/chassis 159802. Your flatter hub wheels would have been >original >> for the car. I am not aware of their availability, however Dayton Wheel >will >> rebuild yours as needed with all new spokes as long as the hubs and rims >are >> in good condition. >> See Blair Harbers note in Larry Varley's site re the first production >> Hundred, chassis #138031. He had his all rebuilt by Dayton. Nice job, not >> cheap, but the colour was off, a little too dark a silver. I saw them when >> he got them back from Dayton and they looked absolutely new. >> I don't recall the exact amount, but easily more than the cost of new >> wheels. I think it was in the area of $200 to 300 apiece. It depends what >> you want. It was a significant item on a noteworthy car, so he went for >> doing it right. >> My BN1 is a July '54 car, and I have all these original wheels, and plan >to >> eventually get them rebuilt and mounted on the Dunlop Roadspeeds. I'll >> probably use them primarily for show, though I don't plan to use the car >for >> gymkhanas or such. >> Rich Chrysler. >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Blue One Hundred" >> To: >> Sent: Friday, November 28, 2003 1:06 AM >> Subject: Early BN1 Wire Wheel Questions & Broken Tach >> >> >> > Hi - >> > >> > Just an oddball question that I've had in the back of >> > my mind for a while... >> > >> > My '53 BN1 (about #700) has two slightly different >> > types of wire wheels on it. They are all silver >> > painted 48 spoke 15" rims. >> > >> > The two front wheels - the center hub's outer rim has >> > a very flat profile compared to a normal dunlop wire >> > wheel's center hub. The two rear wheels' center hubs >> > have the more normal convex shaped outer rim, which >> > you see on most Healeys. >> > >> > My question is - which came original on the car? My >> > guess is the flat ones... can someone shed some light >> > on this? If it is the flat ones, does anyone know >> > where I can get these type of centre hubs for my wire >> > wheels? Are they expensive?? >> > >> > Also, my BN1's Tach just broke (needle went to maximum >> > value and is now stuck there). Should I send it to Mo >> > Ma or is there some other suggestion? How's the >> > quality of work? >> > >> > Thanks, >> > >> > Alan > -- John Harper From "tom felts" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 08:37:50 -0500 Subject: RE: Fuel Tank Question Just a thought. tom > [Original Message] > From: Franck Vigneron > To: Healeys > Date: 11/29/03 1:41:50 AM > Subject: Fuel Tank Question > > Dear Healey Members! > I have a 1960 BT7 fuel tank. > My tank is out and I am checking to see if the fuel > line (little copper hook) on the top right is not > clogged. I have tried solvents and air pressure but > nothing seems to get trough this line from outside. > > Question. I am wondering if it is clogged or if the > line is constructed in a way that fuel or air can only > come from inside out and not inside in. > (1) is this correct? > (2) how can I verify if it is clogged? > (3) how can I unclogged the line? > > Thank you, > Franck > > P.S. Should I mention that I have used the white cream > that is sold to restore the inside of tank. This was a > mistage. Right! From Tracy Drummond From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 06:12:58 -0800 Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Question Franck Vigneron wrote: >Dear Healey Members! >I have a 1960 BT7 fuel tank. >My tank is out and I am checking to see if the fuel >line (little copper hook) on the top right is not >clogged. I have tried solvents and air pressure but >nothing seems to get trough this line from outside. > >Question. I am wondering if it is clogged or if the >line is constructed in a way that fuel or air can only >come from inside out and not inside in. >(1) is this correct? >(2) how can I verify if it is clogged? >(3) how can I unclogged the line? > >Thank you, >Franck > >P.S. Should I mention that I have used the white cream >that is sold to restore the inside of tank. This was a >mistage. Right! > >__________________________________ From "Patton Dickson" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 13:31:31 -0600 Subject: RE: Low Power The in-laws are in town all week, so no chance to diagnose, but will go through the systems next week. I have the 2 port head, so I didn't mess with anything on the in-take side. Sorry about the funeral, never something that you want around the holidays. Patton -----Original Message----- From: HoYo [mailto:hoyo@bellsouth.net] Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2003 4:57 PM To: Patton Dickson; healeys@autox.team.net; Dave & Marlene Subject: Re: Low Power Vacuum advance not working or stuck, shite in the float bowls or clogged fuel filter/fuel pump filter, VACUUM LEAK AT THE MANIFOLD TO HEAD GASKET AROUND WHERE YOU WERE WORKING. goin' to a relative's funeral,HoYo HAPPY THANKSGIVING! From "Patton Dickson" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 13:34:22 -0600 Subject: RE: Low Power The exhaust seems to be flowing OK out of both sides, I do wonder if I knocked something else while under there (I did something to the fuel gauge!!). I'll see next weekend. Patton -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@pacbell.net] Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2003 9:31 PM To: Patton Dickson; healeys@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Low Power I wouldn't rule out something blocking the exhaust (since you were working on it). bs From "Tim Davis" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 17:02:10 -0600 Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2003 11:19 AM Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys > In a message dated 11/27/03 8:33:24 AM, tld6008@mchsi.com writes: > > << I ended up getting > > the VW type tires from PEP Boys for $27 each they also claim that they can > > mount them on wire wheels w/o damage. They are radials made by Cooper tires > > (tire name is Enduro or close) and have 40K rating. >> > > I would be very cautious about that -- they may be able to fit them without > damaging your wire wheels, but it's unlikely that they have the proper center > hub fitting to balance them properly. Before mounting them, check with your > local club to see if there's a shop in the area that has the proper mounting > adaptors on its wheel balancer to get them balanced properly. Even before you > mount them, you should check your wire wheels for run-out (uneven rims) and be > sure that your wheel and hub splines are in good condition. > > Cheers > Gary Anderson > editor, Classic Motorsports Magazine From "Amy Leslie" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 06:20:53 -0500 Subject: Re: Tires for Healeys From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim) From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 12:09:42 +0100 Subject: Thank you - WAS Question: The Cape-international website down? it seems that is has something to do with my PC software. I received 11 answers - 2 had problems to access the cape site. I had access, but now just get a blank page. I deactivated my Norton Firewall and Anti Vir programmms, added the cape URL to the secure URLs of the Internet Explorer (I'm using IE 6.0). Allowed cookies for this URL - all had no effect. I have no idea what blocks the pages. The source code of the blank cape site is only: > All very strange, I have to search further. Thanks to all, at least I now know that the problem is on my side of the line. Best regards and a nice weekend. Martin Germany ----- Original Message ----- > just wondering if the website of http://www.cape-international.com is down? > Or new URL? > Tried to access it every day of this week - get just a blank white page. Is this my IE? > No other problems with websites. From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim) From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 13:23:19 +0100 Subject: Solved - WAS Question: The Cape-international website down? searched through google groups for the "blank page" issue, read somewhere to try CTRL +F5 and SURPRISE: The site showed up! May be it helps someone else, sometime. I love that computer stuff ! Regards Martin From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 09:51:48 -0500 Subject: Re: Body work I'm sure you will get a lot of feed back on your question. Let me throw in a few basics. Your problem sounds pretty common for these cars . Lower 2 feet of car needs a lot of attention as well as the shroud flange corrosion problem. Measure, measure and then measure again. Before cutting, write down all the original measurments of floor pan, rocker panels, outriggers etc. Its very important to replace metal where metal came from. And while your at it you may want to add a couple of extra frame pieces under the floors for extra rigidity. Also theres a great mod to cure Scuttle Shake. You can find a lot of these mods and Do's and Don'ts in the Archives at the bottom of this email. Highly recomend bracing across the door openings before cutting and Do One Side at a time. And once you have cut out frame and body metal, Do Not Move the Chassis until you have welded in new metal to keep the original geometry of the car correct. If things get out of square your in a heap of trouble. A lot of common sense here but still important when it comes to these cars. My 2 cents for what its worth, Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: Amy Leslie To: Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 6:20 AM > my son and i after ten years of restoring const. and farm equipment decided to > restore a car after arguing another two years over what to restore both agreed > on a austin healy. > unseeing and unkowning made a e-bay purchase ffrom > arizona in october.car arrived end of month. since then all body panels > removed ok shape. passenger rocker and sill removed damaged. outriggers front > and rear also damaged > rear removed replacement on the way.front not yet removed > until finish engine and trans taken out some time today. > outrigger to be sawsalled out but outer half of frame rail > tweeked in a bit up. was going to sawsall small portion of > outer half of frame rail out mig new section and install new outrigger is > this o.k. and are there other things to be concerned about From "frogeye" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 09:24:55 -0700 Subject: project car Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque '59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html From Brian N From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 08:43:41 -0800 Subject: Looking for lost 59 Frog Eye It was distinctive in that it had a "rumble" seat cut into the rear body work. Apparently in the 1960's the car was raced and damaged in South Carolina. Putting in the seat was done as part of the repair/modification process. To our knowledge, the car was again damaged after Andy sold it, and the rumble seat was removed, with a proper repair made. Other distinctive features: Stainless Steel interior panels. Rollover Bar Bumpers made from some sort of high tech tubular material (the South Carolina owner was a navy machinist) 1098 motor (Andy installed) Disc brakes (Andy installed) Weber DCOE carburetor 1960's chrome and sparkly steering wheel. Has this car turned up anywhere that anyone knows about? Thanks, Brian N http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg http://www.beachcitygas.com/49plymouth/49plymouthsf.htm From Terry Blubaugh From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 09:12:32 -0800 Subject: Healeys on Film Terry Blubaugh '60 BT7 From ynotink From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 18:47:12 +0000 Subject: Worm Klez.E immunity From "Amy Leslie" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 14:47:39 -0500 Subject: 62 hbt7l 17267 From GeneralFolder at aol.com From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 15:49:59 EST Subject: Re: Healeys on Film Movies: Operation CIA (early 60's movie with Burt Reynolds) Something of Value Summer of Sam Father of the Bride parts 1 & 2 Videos: Janet Jackson's video w/ Jermaine Dupri Tears for Fears video Everyone wants to rule the world Some forgettable teenybopper girl group about three years ago TV: Twilight Zone (This guy wishes for stuff, one of them is a nice two-tone Healey) Home Improvement From "Keith Pennell" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 15:50:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Body work But one thing BEFORE you begin. Check to assure that the frame is square! If this car has taken a hit, it could have knocked it out of square. I have seen a car completely done only to discover after 98% reassembly that it was not squared before metal work was done. Will not go into the horrible story of how things were rectified. Keith Pennell > Glad to hear of your choice in projects. What series of Healey did you > decide on? Must not have been home grown in Arizona with that kind of rust > trouble. > > I'm sure you will get a lot of feed back on your question. Let me throw in > a few basics. Your problem sounds pretty common for these cars . Lower 2 > feet of car needs a lot of attention as well as the shroud flange corrosion > problem. > > Measure, measure and then measure again. Before cutting, write down all the > original measurments of floor pan, rocker panels, outriggers etc. Its very > important to replace metal where metal came from. And while your at it you > may want to add a couple of extra frame pieces under the floors for extra > rigidity. Also theres a great mod to cure Scuttle Shake. You can find a > lot of these mods and Do's and Don'ts in the Archives at the bottom of this > email. > > Highly recomend bracing across the door openings before cutting and Do One > Side at a time. And once you have cut out frame and body metal, Do Not Move > the Chassis until you have welded in new metal to keep the original geometry > of the car correct. If things get out of square your in a heap of trouble. > > A lot of common sense here but still important when it comes to these cars. > > My 2 cents for what its worth, Mark From "Greg Lemon" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 16:20:57 -0600 Subject: Re: 62 hbt7l 17267 Happy Healying Greg Lemon 54 BN1 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Amy Leslie" To: Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 1:47 PM Subject: 62 hbt7l 17267 Checked reatoration manual all seems > original and in place steering wheel in place but no center horn? or no > apparent directionals on colum but appears to be flasher unit on firewall.62 > 3000 mkll > an apparently a late production # 17267 hbt7l > thanks again > Kurt L. Mass. From "J. Scott Morris" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 18:00:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Healeys on Film --- GeneralFolder@aol.com wrote: << A couple of the top of my head Movies: Operation CIA (early 60's movie with Burt Reynolds) Something of Value Summer of Sam Father of the Bride parts 1 & 2 Videos: Janet Jackson's video w/ Jermaine Dupri Tears for Fears video Everyone wants to rule the world Some forgettable teenybopper girl group about three years ago TV: Twilight Zone (This guy wishes for stuff, one of them is a nice two-tone Healey) Home Improvement ===== J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives ______________________________________________________________________ Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca From "timothy bolish" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 18:05:24 -0500 Subject: BN1 Reddish Brown Primer [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of Blank Bkgrd.gif] From Blue One Hundred From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 17:43:54 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Healeys on Film - horror story You can add this horrible movie called "Bliss" to the list. The protagonist drives a very pretty BJ8 throughout the movie. I had taken a very attractive Spanish woman to this movie on a first date. I thought this movie (seeing a preview with him driving a healey) was going to a very romantic movie about a very suave and dashing young man. Imagine my horror when, about 1/4 of the way to the movie, it turned out to be some off the wall New Age movie that .... get this .... centered around masturbation (this new age psychiatrist was trying to fix this Healey guy's love life by telling him to masturbate five times a day... day and night.... more or less!). I was on a first date for god's sake! Imagine my discomfort for sitting through over an hour watching a movie about a guy masturbating at work, at home, and just about everywhere else. Well, we had fun for a few dates and never got back together after that. Stay away from Bliss!!! Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Terry Blubaugh wrote: > Is there someone on the list compiling a > comprehensive schedule of > Healeys in the movies? Just rented the English film > "Croupier" in which > a 100-6 BN6 appears twice for about two minutes. > Beautiful, RHD Florida > Green over OEW. This film is about 5 years old, so > perhaps this info > has already made the rounds. > > Terry Blubaugh > '60 BT7 From HealeyRic2 at aol.com From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 18:52:53 EST Subject: 100s NS The eBay auction for the 100S was a no-sale at $82,600. Reserve wasn't met. Happy Healeying, Rick BJ7, AN5, coming soon Healey-Jamaican From Brian N From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 16:55:48 -0800 Subject: Did I go to He##? I had no idea it would be so difficult! Brian N. http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg From "F. Ronald Rader" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 15:29:05 -0800 Subject: voltage regulator From SJNNOCK at aol.com From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 22:14:40 EST Subject: Re: 62 hbt7l 17267 From Blue One Hundred From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 19:55:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Did I go to He##? Yes, this is not an easy job but it helps to do it in a specific order. First you need to drop the heater core (six screws under dash... not too difficult... about 10 minutes of work). Once it is out, you should use new grommets for the firewall. Use generous amounts of soap and water on the hoses to guide them through the grommets in the firewall. This is the toughest part of the job (the hoses will pull the grommets through the hole). Be sure to guide enough hose to have excess length on both sides of the fire wall... then cut to suit and reassemble. I'd suggest using silicon based hose for this application ... silicone hose will never go bad and thus will never need replacing. Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Brian N wrote: > Or was I just changing heater hoses on a Healey? > > I had no idea it would be so difficult! > > Brian N. > > http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg From Blue One Hundred From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 19:58:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: voltage regulator The RB 340 is the standard V.R. for all BJ8s. The general rule for Lucas regulators is... if it looks exactly like your old one, it will work! Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- "F. Ronald Rader" wrote: > while putting some things away to I found the > following in my garage: > LUCAS GEU 6607 Voltage regulator > RB340 > 12 volt > 30 amp. > can some one confirm that this is a spare for my > Healey, please. > Ron Rader > 65 BJ8 From "F. Ronald Rader" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 20:34:08 -0800 Subject: Re: voltage regulator At 07:58 PM 11/30/2003, Blue One Hundred wrote: >Ron - > >The RB 340 is the standard V.R. for all BJ8s. > >The general rule for Lucas regulators is... if it >looks exactly like your old one, it will work! > >Cheers, > >Alan From "Keith Pennell" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 23:51:54 -0500 Subject: Re: Did I go to He##? You might try putting the grommets on the hoses about 1 inch longer than needed for the attachment to the heater. Run the hoses through the firewall and attach to the heater. Then work the grommets into their holes moving them up the tube as needed too. Keith Pennell > Brian - > > Yes, this is not an easy job but it helps to do it in > a specific order. > > First you need to drop the heater core (six screws > under dash... not too difficult... about 10 minutes of > work). > > Once it is out, you should use new grommets for the > firewall. > > Use generous amounts of soap and water on the hoses to > guide them through the grommets in the firewall. This > is the toughest part of the job (the hoses will pull > the grommets through the hole). Be sure to guide > enough hose to have excess length on both sides of the > fire wall... then cut to suit and reassemble. > > I'd suggest using silicon based hose for this > application ... silicone hose will never go bad and > thus will never need replacing. > > Alan > > '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 From "Scott Willis" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 21:05:44 -0800 Subject: Master cylinder rebuild or buy new? 60 BN7 YIKES!!! As I price rebuilds I start to think that my talents may be needed to hone these old cylinders. I rebuilt my MGA cylinders and it lasted for approx 1 year. Talents limited...Then I ordered new from Apple. I suppose the stone hones just do not get the bores as smooth as needed. I was wanting to get stainless sleeves installed for the Healey but the Apple website says call for price. You know what that means... Are new cylinders from Moss of good quality or does anyone suggest having the cylinders resleeved? It looks as though it will cost $95 min per cylinder compared to $80ea new Moss. I need to rebuild my frozen front calipers also. Looks like $95 each. I have repair kits but I'm worried they will leak after intallation. Thanks for any advice! Cheers, Scott 60 Mashed BN7 59 MGA 73 Bonnie From Dave Carpenter From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2003 00:11:47 -0500 Subject: Re: BN1 Reddish Brown Primer Dave timothy bolish wrote: >BlankHas anybody know of a paint code or off the shelf paint that is close to >the Reddish Brown Primer used behind the dash, and is this same color that is >used for the metal seat pans? >Thanks, >Tim From Pat & Gary Rice From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 21:17:28 -0800 Subject: RE: Side curtain bracket From Lou G From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 21:49:11 -0800 Subject: Healey Blankets The 4' x 5' Healey blanket was commissioned to help commemorate our Healeys. It is a cream color with a red and black checkered border and red, black and cream fringes; it has the Healey wings 3' wide at the top; then it has a front view of a red bugeye, a front corner view of a black 100, and a side view of a red over black 3000 (or 100/6) (just like Putzke's car). All the images are woven into the 100% cotton blanket--very nice. I can provide a picture of the blanket. Selling them for $50. + $5. priority mail postage Lou Galper San Diego AH club '55 100 '59 Bugeye From Brian N From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 22:07:51 -0800 Subject: Re: Did I go to He##? The grommets did not give me any trouble. I inserted them first, then ran new hose in. I precut the hose to original size, plus about a half inch. But I used WD40 on the hose and grommets. Also in the hose end when connecting it to the valve and core stubs. Thankfully the old hoses came off OK, just had to slice them longitudinally at the connections. The new clamps went on easier than the old ones came off. My trouble was the wires and control cables in the way, and the fact my vision is very poor close up, especially in dim light. I disconnected some controls, which helped a lot. I came very near to removing the six core mounting screws, but used long screwdrivers to get the old clamps off instead. If the hoses gave me much trouble, on or off, I had already decided to drop the core. My main frustrations were not having a third hand to hold the light, not seeing clearly, despite my glasses, and that I just don't fit upside down on the trans tunnel very well. I tell ya, this sports car tinkering makes working on my Plymouth Woodie a piece of cake. Everything is BIG, SPACIOUS, and ACCESSIBLE! Thanks for all the sympathy. I need it from time to time. Brian N. Santa Cruz, CA http://www.beachcitygas.com/49plymouth/49plymouthsf.htm From "Bob Spidell" From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 22:09:33 -0800 Subject: Re: Master cylinder rebuild or buy new? 60 BN7 Try these guys: Brake and Equipment Warehouse 455 Harrison St., N.E. Minneapolis, MN 55413 (612) 378-3141 or (800) 233-4053 They did a servo cylinder for me for $55 (their price is $60 but they'll knock $5 off if you mention a car club affiliation). They use stainless steel and do a good job. Oh, they cover return shipping as well :) I don't believe you should hone aluminum cylinders. bs ******************************************** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M ******************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Willis" To: "Lists, Healey" Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 9:05 PM Subject: Master cylinder rebuild or buy new? 60 BN7 > http://www.applehydraulics.com/brakes.htm#ukmaster > > YIKES!!! > > As I price rebuilds I start to think that my talents may be needed to hone > these old cylinders. I rebuilt my MGA cylinders and it lasted for approx 1 > year. Talents limited...Then I ordered new from Apple. > > I suppose the stone hones just do not get the bores as smooth as needed. I > was wanting to get stainless sleeves installed for the Healey but the Apple > website says call for price. You know what that means... > > Are new cylinders from Moss of good quality or does anyone suggest having > the cylinders resleeved? It looks as though it will cost $95 min per > cylinder compared to $80ea new Moss. I need to rebuild my frozen front > calipers also. Looks like $95 each. I have repair kits but I'm worried they > will leak after intallation. > > Thanks for any advice! > > Cheers, > Scott > 60 Mashed BN7 > 59 MGA > 73 Bonnie From Blue One Hundred From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 22:24:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: voltage regulator Trust me, you'll need it. It has five special letters printed on it which means you MUST keep it as a spare : L - U - C - A - S. Don't lose it! Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- "F. Ronald Rader" wrote: > Thanks. > I will now put it in my car which will mean that I > have one spare part > that i will never need. > Ron > > At 07:58 PM 11/30/2003, Blue One Hundred wrote: > >Ron - > > > >The RB 340 is the standard V.R. for all BJ8s. > > > >The general rule for Lucas regulators is... if it > >looks exactly like your old one, it will work! > > > >Cheers, > > > >Alan From Blue One Hundred From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Rich C" To: Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 22:37:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Master cylinder rebuild or buy new? 60 BN7 As a general rule, simply rebuilding the front calipers with the rebuild kit should be sufficient... but if they are frozen you'll probably have to replace the caliper's brake pucks (be sure to get stainless steel ones). My BJ8 front calipers have lasted 15 years and 60,000 miles from the basic rebuild kit I put on myself. I expect it to last until the new pucks I put on it start corroding (they are the chrome plated variety, Stainless Steel ones weren't available back then) The master cylinder is a different issue all together. As a rule, I think simply honing and rebuilding will rarely get you the result you want (since they are made out of aluminum for your BN7, they are prone to having microscopic corrosion pitting in the cylinders over time). Rebuilding a standard master cylinder will give you typically about 2 years of use at best. You can buy yourself a new master cylinder which will probably last you several years (say 10 years +), just fine, but you'll have to replace or resleeve it when you rebuild it in the future. If you buy a unit resleeved with a brass sleeve, it'll probably last you a lifetime, so in fact it may be worth the additional cost (it's up to you), and if you rebuild it in the future, honing it will probably work just fine - the sleeve should last forever - just the rubber kit will be enough. Hope that helps!! Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8 --- Scott Willis wrote: > http://www.applehydraulics.com/brakes.htm#ukmaster > > YIKES!!! > > As I price rebuilds I start to think that my talents > may be needed to hone > these old cylinders. I rebuilt my MGA cylinders and > it lasted for approx 1 > year. Talents limited...Then I ordered new from > Apple. > > I suppose the stone hones just do not get the bores > as smooth as needed. I > was wanting to get stainless sleeves installed for > the Healey but the Apple > website says call for price. You know what that > means... > > Are new cylinders from Moss of good quality or does > anyone suggest having > the cylinders resleeved? It looks as though it will > cost $95 min per > cylinder compared to $80ea new Moss. I need to > rebuild my frozen front > calipers also. Looks like $95 each. I have repair > kits but I'm worried they > will leak after intallation. > > Thanks for any advice! > > Cheers, > Scott > 60 Mashed BN7 > 59 MGA > 73 Bonnie