Subject: [Fot] A-type OD leaks

From: Joe Boruch via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2023 23:23:38 +0000 (UTC)

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I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like it's leaking from=
 near the adapter plate.=C2=A0 I have never taken one apart.=C2=A0 Can I ju=
st separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or the adapter pl=
ate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate and am checki=
ng with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble without needing to t=
ake the OD apart further?=C2=A0 There is a youtube video that shows an OD b=
eing separated and it looks like it is do able.=C2=A0 Thoughts?=C2=A0 JoeB
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<html><head></head><body><div class="yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;"><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like it's leaking from near the adapter plate.&nbsp; I have never taken one apart.&nbsp; Can I just separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or the adapter plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate and am checking with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble without needing to take the OD apart further?&nbsp; There is a youtube video that shows an OD being separated and it looks like it is do able.&nbsp; Thoughts?&nbsp; JoeB</div></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________
[email-masked]

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot

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From: yellow04 via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2023 07:29:34 -0400

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Joe, 

If your gearbox has slowly started leaking around the adapter plate, in
all likelihood the issue is the six bolts that hold the plate to the
back of the gearbox have loosened up. If nobody safety wired them or
didn't use any kind of threadlocker on them, this is typically the
problem when leaks slowly start in this area. The likelihood of needing
to replace the adapter plate is not all that high, assuming the leak is
not huge and you have not been driving the car with copious amounts of
oil leaking about. 

The adapter plate is not part of the overdrive unit, so replacing only
the adapter plate is not too difficult. Six nuts hold the OD unit to the
adapter plate, remove the nuts from the 4 short studs first, then start
working the nuts on the two long studs evenly, and spring pressure
should separate the OD unit from the adapter plate. Pay attention to the
8 springs as you slide the OD unit off the mainshaft, when they fall out
they like to roll under things. Place the OD unit aside, other that
cleaning the gasket surface you will not be messing with that. 

I use the little bottle of Permatex Aviation gasket sealer for gearboxs,
seems to work well for me. 

The six bolts that attach the adapter plate to the back of the gearbox
case are now visible, if these bolts are not properly torqued you just
found the source of your leak. Remove them, clean up your gasket
surfaces and reseal. The same gasket is used here as the non-overdrive
gearbox.  Rimmers sells bolts specifically for this application, they
have threadlocker that is safe for the aluminum case on the threads.
They have been working for me. These 6 bolts may be safety wired, always
a good idea if you don't buy a set of new bolts from Rimmers. If you go
the safety wire route, pay attention to the parts as it is easy to run
the wire in such a way that it fouls when the OD unit is installed. 

The last adapter plate I bought from Rimmers was embossed with "ORS", I
believe it was made by Overdrive Repair Services, the business started
by Laycock employees after Laycock closed their doors. I didn't really
compare it to a Triumph adapter plate, but I can see how John Esposito
might call it an upgraded adapter plate. If you need one, I'd just order
it from Rimmers along with those 6 bolts.  

Assembling the OD unit back onto the gearbox is where the real fun is,
you need to line up two sets of splines in the OD unit, compress the 8
springs and make sure you don't foul the oil pump plunger on the cam.
Many ways to accomplish this, some are tedious, frustrating, and can
completely drive you crazy. The easiest way I have found is to safety
wire the pump plunger, install the pump drive cam and make sure it is
pointing away from the pump, apply the sealant to the gasket and place
in on the OD unit, align the splines in the OD unit, (a spare OD
mainshaft is really helpful with this) and offer up the OD unit to the
box. Slowly slide the unit on assuring everything is lined up until the
gasket is almost touching the adapter plate. Then, install the nuts and
washers on the long studs only a couple of turns. Then you slide the OD
unit backwards WITHOUT TURNING the rear flange until it hits the nuts.
Then you install the 8 springs in their correct position, (shorts go
inboard, longs go outboard) by stuffing them onto their posts on the
sliding member then levering the other end onto the nubs on the adapter
plate. Take a really good look to make sure you have all 8 springs
correctly installed, then tighten the nuts equally to draw the OD unit
home. Then install the 4 nuts and washers on the short studs, remove the
safety wire on the oil pump plunger, refill with oil and you are good to
go. 

If you run into problems or need to borrow a spare OD mainshaft to line
up the splines in the OD unit, feel free to reach out! 

Henry 

On 2023-09-20 19:23, Joe Boruch via Fot wrote:

> I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like it's leaking from near the adapter plate.  I have never taken one apart.  Can I just separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or the adapter plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate and am checking with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble without needing to take the OD apart further?  There is a youtube video that shows an OD being separated and it looks like it is do able.  Thoughts?  JoeB
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eva,sans-serif'>
<p>Joe,</p>
<p>If your gearbox has slowly started leaking around the adapter plate, in =
all likelihood the issue is the six bolts that hold the plate to the back o=
f the gearbox have loosened up. If nobody safety wired them or didn't use a=
ny kind of threadlocker on them, this is typically the problem when leaks s=
lowly start in this area. The likelihood of needing to replace the adapter =
plate is not all that high, assuming the leak is not huge and you have not =
been driving the car with copious amounts of oil leaking about.</p>
<p>The adapter plate is not part of the overdrive unit, so replacing only t=
he adapter plate is not too difficult. Six nuts hold the OD unit to the ada=
pter plate, remove the nuts from the 4 short studs first, then start workin=
g the nuts on the two long studs evenly, and spring pressure should separat=
e the OD unit from the adapter plate. Pay attention to the 8 springs as you=
 slide the OD unit off the mainshaft, when they fall out they like to roll =
under things. Place the OD unit aside, other that cleaning the gasket surfa=
ce you will not be messing with that.</p>
<p>I use the little bottle of Permatex Aviation gasket sealer for gearboxs,=
 seems to work well for me.</p>
<p>The six bolts that attach the adapter plate to the back of the gearbox c=
ase are now visible, if these bolts are not properly torqued you just found=
 the source of your leak. Remove them, clean up your gasket surfaces and re=
seal. The same gasket is used here as the non-overdrive gearbox.&nbsp; Rimm=
ers sells bolts specifically for this application, they have threadlocker t=
hat is safe for the aluminum case on the threads. They have been working fo=
r me.&nbsp;These 6 bolts may be safety wired, always a good idea if you don=
't buy a set of new bolts from Rimmers. If you go the safety wire route, pa=
y attention to the parts as it is easy to run the wire in such a way that i=
t fouls when the OD unit is installed.</p>
<p>The last adapter plate I bought from Rimmers was embossed with "ORS", I =
believe it was made by Overdrive Repair Services, the business started by L=
aycock employees after Laycock closed their doors. I didn't really compare =
it to a Triumph adapter plate, but I can see how John Esposito might call i=
t an upgraded adapter plate. If you need one, I'd just order it from Rimmer=
s along with those 6 bolts.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Assembling the OD unit back onto the gearbox is where the real fun is, y=
ou need to line up two sets of splines in the OD unit, compress the 8 sprin=
gs and make sure you don't foul the oil pump plunger on the cam. Many ways =
to accomplish this, some are tedious, frustrating, and can completely drive=
 you crazy. The easiest way I have found is to safety wire the pump plunger=
, install the pump drive cam and make sure it is pointing away from the pum=
p, apply the sealant to the gasket and place in on the OD unit, align the s=
plines in the OD unit, (a spare OD mainshaft is really helpful with this) a=
nd offer up the OD unit to the box. Slowly slide the unit on assuring every=
thing is lined up until the gasket is almost touching the adapter plate. Th=
en, install the nuts and washers on the long studs only a couple of turns=
=2E Then you slide the OD unit backwards WITHOUT TURNING the rear flange un=
til it hits the nuts. Then you install the 8 springs in their correct posit=
ion, (shorts go inboard, longs go outboard) by stuffing them onto their pos=
ts on the sliding member then levering the other end onto the nubs on the a=
dapter plate. Take a really good look to make sure you have all 8 springs c=
orrectly installed, then tighten the nuts equally to draw the OD unit home=
=2E Then install the 4 nuts and washers on the short studs, remove the safe=
ty wire on the oil pump plunger, refill with oil and you are good to go.</p=
<p>If you run into problems or need to borrow a spare OD mainshaft to line =
up the splines in the OD unit, feel free to reach out!</p>
<p>Henry</p>
<p id=3D"reply-intro">On 2023-09-20 19:23, Joe Boruch via Fot wrote:</p>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"padding: 0 0.4em; border-left: #1010ff 2=
px solid; margin: 0">
<div id=3D"replybody1">
<div>
<div class=3D"v1yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family: Helvetica Neue, Hel=
vetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
<div dir=3D"ltr">I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like =
it's leaking from near the adapter plate.&nbsp; I have never taken one apar=
t.&nbsp; Can I just separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets =
or the adapter plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated pl=
ate and am checking with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble wit=
hout needing to take the OD apart further?&nbsp; There is a youtube video t=
hat shows an OD being separated and it looks like it is do able.&nbsp; Thou=
ghts?&nbsp; JoeB</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
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From: "John H. Hasty via Fot" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2023 14:32:27 +0000

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From: fubog1 via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2023 15:11:20 +0000 (UTC)

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 Can't add much to Henrys excellent dissertation on the A-type, except to c=
heck the plate for bend/warpage @ the bottom between the 2 lower fasteners.
Glen Efinger

    On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 08:10:31 AM EDT, yellow04 via Fot <f=
[email-masked]> wrote: =20
=20
=20
Joe,

If your gearbox has slowly started leaking around the adapter plate, in all=
 likelihood the issue is the six bolts that hold the plate to the back of t=
he gearbox have loosened up. If nobody safety wired them or didn't use any =
kind of threadlocker on them, this is typically the problem when leaks slow=
ly start in this area. The likelihood of needing to replace the adapter pla=
te is not all that high, assuming the leak is not huge and you have not bee=
n driving the car with copious amounts of oil leaking about.

The adapter plate is not part of the overdrive unit, so replacing only the =
adapter plate is not too difficult. Six nuts hold the OD unit to the adapte=
r plate, remove the nuts from the 4 short studs first, then start working t=
he nuts on the two long studs evenly, and spring pressure should separate t=
he OD unit from the adapter plate. Pay attention to the 8 springs as you sl=
ide the OD unit off the mainshaft, when they fall out they like to roll und=
er things. Place the OD unit aside, other that cleaning the gasket surface =
you will not be messing with that.

I use the little bottle of Permatex Aviation gasket sealer for gearboxs, se=
ems to work well for me.

The six bolts that attach the adapter plate to the back of the gearbox case=
 are now visible, if these bolts are not properly torqued you just found th=
e source of your leak. Remove them, clean up your gasket surfaces and resea=
l. The same gasket is used here as the non-overdrive gearbox.=C2=A0 Rimmers=
 sells bolts specifically for this application, they have threadlocker that=
 is safe for the aluminum case on the threads. They have been working for m=
e.=C2=A0These 6 bolts may be safety wired, always a good idea if you don't =
buy a set of new bolts from Rimmers. If you go the safety wire route, pay a=
ttention to the parts as it is easy to run the wire in such a way that it f=
ouls when the OD unit is installed.

The last adapter plate I bought from Rimmers was embossed with "ORS", I bel=
ieve it was made by Overdrive Repair Services, the business started by Layc=
ock employees after Laycock closed their doors. I didn't really compare it =
to a Triumph adapter plate, but I can see how John Esposito might call it a=
n upgraded adapter plate. If you need one, I'd just order it from Rimmers a=
long with those 6 bolts.=C2=A0

Assembling the OD unit back onto the gearbox is where the real fun is, you =
need to line up two sets of splines in the OD unit, compress the 8 springs =
and make sure you don't foul the oil pump plunger on the cam. Many ways to =
accomplish this, some are tedious, frustrating, and can completely drive yo=
u crazy. The easiest way I have found is to safety wire the pump plunger, i=
nstall the pump drive cam and make sure it is pointing away from the pump, =
apply the sealant to the gasket and place in on the OD unit, align the spli=
nes in the OD unit, (a spare OD mainshaft is really helpful with this) and =
offer up the OD unit to the box. Slowly slide the unit on assuring everythi=
ng is lined up until the gasket is almost touching the adapter plate. Then,=
 install the nuts and washers on the long studs only a couple of turns. The=
n you slide the OD unit backwards WITHOUT TURNING the rear flange until it =
hits the nuts. Then you install the 8 springs in their correct position, (s=
horts go inboard, longs go outboard) by stuffing them onto their posts on t=
he sliding member then levering the other end onto the nubs on the adapter =
plate. Take a really good look to make sure you have all 8 springs correctl=
y installed, then tighten the nuts equally to draw the OD unit home. Then i=
nstall the 4 nuts and washers on the short studs, remove the safety wire on=
 the oil pump plunger, refill with oil and you are good to go.

If you run into problems or need to borrow a spare OD mainshaft to line up =
the splines in the OD unit, feel free to reach out!

Henry

m

 =20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp4bd37dfeyahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Can't add much to Henrys exc=
ellent dissertation on the A-type, except to check the plate for bend/warpa=
ge @ the bottom between the 2 lower fasteners.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-s=
etdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Glen Efing=
er<br></div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydp973cd0bcyahoo_quoted_5832845229" class=3D"ydp97=
3cd0bcyahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 08:10:31 AM EDT, yel=
low04 via Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div id=3D"ydp973cd0bcyiv7765969694"><div>
<p>Joe,</p>
<p>If your gearbox has slowly started leaking around the adapter plate, in =
all likelihood the issue is the six bolts that hold the plate to the back o=
f the gearbox have loosened up. If nobody safety wired them or didn't use a=
ny kind of threadlocker on them, this is typically the problem when leaks s=
lowly start in this area. The likelihood of needing to replace the adapter =
plate is not all that high, assuming the leak is not huge and you have not =
been driving the car with copious amounts of oil leaking about.</p>
<p>The adapter plate is not part of the overdrive unit, so replacing only t=
he adapter plate is not too difficult. Six nuts hold the OD unit to the ada=
pter plate, remove the nuts from the 4 short studs first, then start workin=
g the nuts on the two long studs evenly, and spring pressure should separat=
e the OD unit from the adapter plate. Pay attention to the 8 springs as you=
 slide the OD unit off the mainshaft, when they fall out they like to roll =
under things. Place the OD unit aside, other that cleaning the gasket surfa=
ce you will not be messing with that.</p>
<p>I use the little bottle of Permatex Aviation gasket sealer for gearboxs,=
 seems to work well for me.</p>
<p>The six bolts that attach the adapter plate to the back of the gearbox c=
ase are now visible, if these bolts are not properly torqued you just found=
 the source of your leak. Remove them, clean up your gasket surfaces and re=
seal. The same gasket is used here as the non-overdrive gearbox.&nbsp; Rimm=
ers sells bolts specifically for this application, they have threadlocker t=
hat is safe for the aluminum case on the threads. They have been working fo=
r me.&nbsp;These 6 bolts may be safety wired, always a good idea if you don=
't buy a set of new bolts from Rimmers. If you go the safety wire route, pa=
y attention to the parts as it is easy to run the wire in such a way that i=
t fouls when the OD unit is installed.</p>
<p>The last adapter plate I bought from Rimmers was embossed with "ORS", I =
believe it was made by Overdrive Repair Services, the business started by L=
aycock employees after Laycock closed their doors. I didn't really compare =
it to a Triumph adapter plate, but I can see how John Esposito might call i=
t an upgraded adapter plate. If you need one, I'd just order it from Rimmer=
s along with those 6 bolts.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Assembling the OD unit back onto the gearbox is where the real fun is, y=
ou need to line up two sets of splines in the OD unit, compress the 8 sprin=
gs and make sure you don't foul the oil pump plunger on the cam. Many ways =
to accomplish this, some are tedious, frustrating, and can completely drive=
 you crazy. The easiest way I have found is to safety wire the pump plunger=
, install the pump drive cam and make sure it is pointing away from the pum=
p, apply the sealant to the gasket and place in on the OD unit, align the s=
plines in the OD unit, (a spare OD mainshaft is really helpful with this) a=
nd offer up the OD unit to the box. Slowly slide the unit on assuring every=
thing is lined up until the gasket is almost touching the adapter plate. Th=
en, install the nuts and washers on the long studs only a couple of turns. =
Then you slide the OD unit backwards WITHOUT TURNING the rear flange until =
it hits the nuts. Then you install the 8 springs in their correct position,=
 (shorts go inboard, longs go outboard) by stuffing them onto their posts o=
n the sliding member then levering the other end onto the nubs on the adapt=
er plate. Take a really good look to make sure you have all 8 springs corre=
ctly installed, then tighten the nuts equally to draw the OD unit home. The=
n install the 4 nuts and washers on the short studs, remove the safety wire=
 on the oil pump plunger, refill with oil and you are good to go.</p>
<p>If you run into problems or need to borrow a spare OD mainshaft to line =
up the splines in the OD unit, feel free to reach out!</p>
<p>Henry</p>
<div id=3D"ydp973cd0bcyiv7765969694yqt63037" class=3D"ydp973cd0bcyiv7765969=
694yqt6897648342"><p id=3D"ydp973cd0bcyiv7765969694reply-intro">On 2023-09-=
20 19:23, Joe Boruch via Fot wrote:</p>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"padding:0 0.4em;border-left:#1010ff 2px =
solid;margin:0;">
<div id=3D"ydp973cd0bcyiv7765969694replybody1">
<div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font=
-size:13px;" class=3D"ydp973cd0bcyiv7765969694v1yahoo-style-wrap">
<div dir=3D"ltr">I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like =
it's leaking from near the adapter plate.&nbsp; I have never taken one apar=
t.&nbsp; Can I just separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets =
or the adapter plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated pl=
ate and am checking with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble wit=
hout needing to take the OD apart further?&nbsp; There is a youtube video t=
hat shows an OD being separated and it looks like it is do able.&nbsp; Thou=
ghts?&nbsp; JoeB</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote></div>
</div></div><div class=3D"ydp973cd0bcyqt6897648342" id=3D"ydp973cd0bcyqt083=
11">_______________________________________________<br clear=3D"none"><a sh=
ape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"=
_blank">[email-masked]</a><br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none"><a shap=
e=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_b=
lank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">Do=
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From: "R. John Lye via Fot" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2023 11:34:44 -0400

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=09

Hi Joe B..

Henry says " you need to line up two sets of splines in the OD unit "

This is very important, as I learned the hard way the first time that I put
an OD back together.=C2=A0 I thought that I had the splines line up, but in=
 fact,
I only had the first set lined up and snapped a plate tightening it down.

Hope that helps,
John
=C2=A0

On Thu, 21 Sep 2023 07:29:34 -0400, yellow04 via Fot <[email-masked]> w=
rote:
=C2=A0
Joe,

Henry

=2Enet

=C2=A0

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<head>
	<title></title>
</head>
<body>
<div class=3D"userStyles" style=3D" font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; co=
lor: #000000;">Hi Joe B..<br>
<br>
Henry says " you need to line up two sets of splines in the OD unit "<br>
<br>
This is very important, as I learned the hard way the first time that I put=
<br>
an OD back together.&nbsp; I thought that I had the splines line up, but in=
 fact,<br>
I only had the first set lined up and snapped a plate tightening it down.<b=
r>
<br>
Hope that helps,<br>
John
<footer class=3D"signatureContainer" style=3D"display:inline;">&nbsp;</foot=
er>

<footer class=3D"replyforwardcontainer"><br>
<br>
<span>On Thu, 21 Sep 2023 07:29:34 -0400, yellow04 via Fot &lt;[email-masked]=
am.net&gt; wrote:</span><br>
&nbsp;
<p>Joe,</p>

<p>Henry</p>

<blockquote style=3D"padding: 0 0.4em; border-left: #1010ff 2px solid; marg=
in: 0" type=3D"cite">
<div id=3D"replybody1">
<div>
<div class=3D"v1yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family: Helvetica Neue, Hel=
vetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
<div dir=3D"ltr">I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like =
it's leaking from near the adapter plate.&nbsp; I have never taken one apar=
t.&nbsp; Can I just separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets =
or the adapter plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated pl=
ate and am checking with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble wit=
hout needing to take the OD apart further?&nbsp; There is a youtube video t=
hat shows an OD being separated and it looks like it is do able.&nbsp; Thou=
ghts?&nbsp; JoeB</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
_______________________________________________<br>
[email-masked]<br>
<br>
http://www.fot-racing.com<br>
<br>
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot<br=
=2Enet<br>
<br>
&nbsp;</footer>
</div>

</body>
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From: Joe via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2023 12:55:35 -0400

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Thanks all for all the info.  I went thru my parts stash and found an OD mai=
n shaft.  JoeB

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 21, 2023, at 11:35 AM, R. John Lye <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> Hi Joe B..
>=20
> This is very important, as I learned the hard way the first time that I pu=
t
> an OD back together.  I thought that I had the splines line up, but in fac=
t,
> John =20
rote:
> =20
> Joe,
>=20
> If your gearbox has slowly started leaking around the adapter plate, in al=
l likelihood the issue is the six bolts that hold the plate to the back of t=
he gearbox have loosened up. If nobody safety wired them or didn't use any k=
ind of threadlocker on them, this is typically the problem when leaks slowly=
 start in this area. The likelihood of needing to replace the adapter plate i=
s not all that high, assuming the leak is not huge and you have not been dri=
ving the car with copious amounts of oil leaking about.
>=20
> The adapter plate is not part of the overdrive unit, so replacing only the=
 adapter plate is not too difficult. Six nuts hold the OD unit to the adapte=
r plate, remove the nuts from the 4 short studs first, then start working th=
e nuts on the two long studs evenly, and spring pressure should separate the=
 OD unit from the adapter plate. Pay attention to the 8 springs as you slide=
 the OD unit off the mainshaft, when they fall out they like to roll under t=
hings. Place the OD unit aside, other that cleaning the gasket surface you w=
ill not be messing with that.
>=20
> I use the little bottle of Permatex Aviation gasket sealer for gearboxs, s=
eems to work well for me.
>=20
> The six bolts that attach the adapter plate to the back of the gearbox cas=
e are now visible, if these bolts are not properly torqued you just found th=
e source of your leak. Remove them, clean up your gasket surfaces and reseal=
. The same gasket is used here as the non-overdrive gearbox.  Rimmers sells b=
olts specifically for this application, they have threadlocker that is safe f=
or the aluminum case on the threads. They have been working for me. These 6 b=
olts may be safety wired, always a good idea if you don't buy a set of new b=
olts from Rimmers. If you go the safety wire route, pay attention to the par=
ts as it is easy to run the wire in such a way that it fouls when the OD uni=
t is installed.
>=20
> The last adapter plate I bought from Rimmers was embossed with "ORS", I be=
lieve it was made by Overdrive Repair Services, the business started by Layc=
ock employees after Laycock closed their doors. I didn't really compare it t=
o a Triumph adapter plate, but I can see how John Esposito might call it an u=
pgraded adapter plate. If you need one, I'd just order it from Rimmers along=
 with those 6 bolts.=20
>=20
> Assembling the OD unit back onto the gearbox is where the real fun is, you=
 need to line up two sets of splines in the OD unit, compress the 8 springs a=
nd make sure you don't foul the oil pump plunger on the cam. Many ways to ac=
complish this, some are tedious, frustrating, and can completely drive you c=
razy. The easiest way I have found is to safety wire the pump plunger, insta=
ll the pump drive cam and make sure it is pointing away from the pump, apply=
 the sealant to the gasket and place in on the OD unit, align the splines in=
 the OD unit, (a spare OD mainshaft is really helpful with this) and offer u=
p the OD unit to the box. Slowly slide the unit on assuring everything is li=
ned up until the gasket is almost touching the adapter plate. Then, install t=
he nuts and washers on the long studs only a couple of turns. Then you slide=
 the OD unit backwards WITHOUT TURNING the rear flange until it hits the nut=
s. Then you install the 8 springs in their correct position, (shorts go inbo=
ard, longs go outboard) by stuffing them onto their posts on the sliding mem=
ber then levering the other end onto the nubs on the adapter plate. Take a r=
eally good look to make sure you have all 8 springs correctly installed, the=
n tighten the nuts equally to draw the OD unit home. Then install the 4 nuts=
 and washers on the short studs, remove the safety wire on the oil pump plun=
ger, refill with oil and you are good to go.
>=20
> If you run into problems or need to borrow a spare OD mainshaft to line up=
>> I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like it's leaking fr=
om near the adapter plate.  I have never taken one apart.  Can I just separa=
te the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or the adapter plate (I've h=
eard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate and am checking with John=
 to see if he has one) and then reassemble without needing to take the OD ap=
art further?  There is a youtube video that shows an OD being separated and i=
t looks like it is do able.  Thoughts?  JoeB
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl6n@cstone=
.net

--Apple-Mail-D18F1548-DC38-45B6-9EC9-AE3979A49CBD
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Thanks all for all the info. &nbsp;I went t=
hru my parts stash and found an OD main shaft. &nbsp;JoeB<br><br><div dir=3D=
"ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite=
">On Sep 21, 2023, at 11:35 AM, R. John Lye &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<=
br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF=

	<title></title>

<div class=3D"userStyles" style=3D" font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; col=
or: #000000;">Hi Joe B..<br>
<br>
Henry says " you need to line up two sets of splines in the OD unit "<br>
<br>
This is very important, as I learned the hard way the first time that I put<=
br>
an OD back together.&nbsp; I thought that I had the splines line up, but in f=
act,<br>
I only had the first set lined up and snapped a plate tightening it down.<br=
<br>
Hope that helps,<br>
John
<footer class=3D"signatureContainer" style=3D"display:inline;">&nbsp;</foote=
r>

<footer class=3D"replyforwardcontainer"><br>
<br>
<span>On Thu, 21 Sep 2023 07:29:34 -0400, yellow04 via Fot &lt;[email-masked]=
m.net&gt; wrote:</span><br>
&nbsp;
<p>Joe,</p>

<p>If your gearbox has slowly started leaking around the adapter plate, in a=
ll likelihood the issue is the six bolts that hold the plate to the back of t=
he gearbox have loosened up. If nobody safety wired them or didn't use any k=
ind of threadlocker on them, this is typically the problem when leaks slowly=
 start in this area. The likelihood of needing to replace the adapter plate i=
s not all that high, assuming the leak is not huge and you have not been dri=
ving the car with copious amounts of oil leaking about.</p>

<p>The adapter plate is not part of the overdrive unit, so replacing only th=
e adapter plate is not too difficult. Six nuts hold the OD unit to the adapt=
er plate, remove the nuts from the 4 short studs first, then start working t=
he nuts on the two long studs evenly, and spring pressure should separate th=
e OD unit from the adapter plate. Pay attention to the 8 springs as you slid=
e the OD unit off the mainshaft, when they fall out they like to roll under t=
hings. Place the OD unit aside, other that cleaning the gasket surface you w=
ill not be messing with that.</p>

<p>I use the little bottle of Permatex Aviation gasket sealer for gearboxs, s=
eems to work well for me.</p>

<p>The six bolts that attach the adapter plate to the back of the gearbox ca=
se are now visible, if these bolts are not properly torqued you just found t=
he source of your leak. Remove them, clean up your gasket surfaces and resea=
l. The same gasket is used here as the non-overdrive gearbox.&nbsp; Rimmers s=
ells bolts specifically for this application, they have threadlocker that is=
 safe for the aluminum case on the threads. They have been working for me.&n=
bsp;These 6 bolts may be safety wired, always a good idea if you don't buy a=
 set of new bolts from Rimmers. If you go the safety wire route, pay attenti=
on to the parts as it is easy to run the wire in such a way that it fouls wh=
en the OD unit is installed.</p>

<p>The last adapter plate I bought from Rimmers was embossed with "ORS", I b=
elieve it was made by Overdrive Repair Services, the business started by Lay=
cock employees after Laycock closed their doors. I didn't really compare it t=
o a Triumph adapter plate, but I can see how John Esposito might call it an u=
pgraded adapter plate. If you need one, I'd just order it from Rimmers along=
 with those 6 bolts.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Assembling the OD unit back onto the gearbox is where the real fun is, yo=
u need to line up two sets of splines in the OD unit, compress the 8 springs=
 and make sure you don't foul the oil pump plunger on the cam. Many ways to a=
ccomplish this, some are tedious, frustrating, and can completely drive you c=
razy. The easiest way I have found is to safety wire the pump plunger, insta=
ll the pump drive cam and make sure it is pointing away from the pump, apply=
 the sealant to the gasket and place in on the OD unit, align the splines in=
 the OD unit, (a spare OD mainshaft is really helpful with this) and offer u=
p the OD unit to the box. Slowly slide the unit on assuring everything is li=
ned up until the gasket is almost touching the adapter plate. Then, install t=
he nuts and washers on the long studs only a couple of turns. Then you slide=
 the OD unit backwards WITHOUT TURNING the rear flange until it hits the nut=
s. Then you install the 8 springs in their correct position, (shorts go inbo=
ard, longs go outboard) by stuffing them onto their posts on the sliding mem=
ber then levering the other end onto the nubs on the adapter plate. Take a r=
eally good look to make sure you have all 8 springs correctly installed, the=
n tighten the nuts equally to draw the OD unit home. Then install the 4 nuts=
 and washers on the short studs, remove the safety wire on the oil pump plun=
ger, refill with oil and you are good to go.</p>

<p>If you run into problems or need to borrow a spare OD mainshaft to line u=
p the splines in the OD unit, feel free to reach out!</p>

<p>Henry</p>

<blockquote style=3D"padding: 0 0.4em; border-left: #1010ff 2px solid; margi=
n: 0" type=3D"cite">
<div id=3D"replybody1">
<div>
<div class=3D"v1yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helv=
etica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
<div dir=3D"ltr">I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like i=
t's leaking from near the adapter plate.&nbsp; I have never taken one apart.=
&nbsp; Can I just separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or t=
he adapter plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate a=
nd am checking with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble without n=
eeding to take the OD apart further?&nbsp; There is a youtube video that sho=
ws an OD being separated and it looks like it is do able.&nbsp; Thoughts?&nb=
sp; JoeB</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
_______________________________________________<br>
[email-masked]<br>
<br>
http://www.fot-racing.com<br>
<br>
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot<br>=

et<br>
<br>
&nbsp;</footer>
</div>

</div></blockquote></body></html>=

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From: Nick Black via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2023 10:05:13 -0700

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	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Joe=20
I agree, it=E2=80=99s the bolts that hold the od plate to the transmission. I=
 recall that the torque on these bolts is about 25 lbs. the bolts are totall=
y soft and will stretch forever with one or two additional pounds=E2=80=A6 t=
hrow them away and use Allen head bolts drilled for safety wire. The stock b=
olts stretch and the plate gets loose and leaks.

Sent from the wilds of NorCal=20

> On Sep 20, 2023, at 8:52 PM, Joe Boruch via Fot <[email-masked]> wrote=
:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like it's leaking fro=
m near the adapter plate.  I have never taken one apart.  Can I just separat=
e the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or the adapter plate (I've h=
eard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate and am checking with John=
 to see if he has one) and then reassemble without needing to take the OD ap=
art further?  There is a youtube video that shows an OD being separated and i=
t looks like it is do able.=20

--Apple-Mail-59B75A56-0474-470B-82CE-2657E051FAAD
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Joe&nbsp;<div>I agree, it=E2=80=99s the bol=
ts that hold the od plate to the transmission. I recall that the torque on t=
hese bolts is about 25 lbs. the bolts are totally soft and will stretch fore=
ver with one or two additional pounds=E2=80=A6 throw them away and use Allen=
 head bolts drilled for safety wire. The stock bolts stretch and the plate g=
ets loose and leaks.</div><div><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from the wilds of N=
orCal&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Sep 20, 2=
023, at 8:52 PM, Joe Boruch via Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br=
></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div=
 class=3D"yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, A=
rial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;"><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">I h=
ave a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like it's leaking from nea=
r the adapter plate.&nbsp; I have never taken one apart.&nbsp; Can I just se=
parate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or the adapter plate (I=
've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate and am checking with=
 John to see if he has one) and then reassemble without needing to take the O=
D apart further?&nbsp; There is a youtube video that shows an OD being separ=
ated and it looks like it is do able.&nbsp;</div></div><span></span><br><spa=
n></span><br></div></blockquote></div></body></html>=

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---

From: Jack Wheeler via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2023 19:35:35 +0000 (UTC)

--===============4412032127482022355==
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 I've read a number of responses to this and all are good ideas.=C2=A0 When=
 I was racing with an A-Type overdrive, I met a guy from St. Louis named Bi=
ll Boemmler, a TR-3 racer from the 50's & 60's.=C2=A0 Bill was also a skill=
ed machinist and had a small machine shop behind his house.=C2=A0 Everythin=
g I know about the A-Type overdrive, I learned from Bill.
The bottom of the adapter plate is fastened by 2 studs, one in each corner.=
=C2=A0 It generally leaks between these 2 studs.=C2=A0 Bill would drill and=
 tap for two additional small bolts (about 1/2" long), spaced evenly betwee=
n the 2 studs.=C2=A0 Two holes were drilled in the adapter plate, aligned w=
ith two holes which were drilled and tapped into the overdrive housing for =
a 1/4" - 20 hex bolt.=C2=A0 This, of course, has to be done when the overdr=
ive is apart, and the holes are drilled and tapped into the rear of the O/D=
 housing.=C2=A0 When assembling, it is a tight fit to get these two bolts i=
n between the gearbox housing and the adapter plate, so the bolts need to b=
e short. just long enough to get a firm threading into the O/D housing.=C2=
=A0 They should be secured with either lock tight or safety wire.
This process is a little hard to explain, so if you want a better descripti=
on either call me or contact me offline.=C2=A0 I had Bill perform this modi=
fication on all of my race and street car overdrives, and after this modifi=
cation, I never had a leak in this area.
Cheers,
Jack

    On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 12:17:01 AM EDT, Joe Boruch via Fot =
<[email-masked]> wrote: =20
=20
 I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like it's leaking fro=
m near the adapter plate.=C2=A0 I have never taken one apart.=C2=A0 Can I j=
ust separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or the adapter p=
late (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate and am check=
ing with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble without needing to =
take the OD apart further?=C2=A0 There is a youtube video that shows an OD =
being separated and it looks like it is do able.=C2=A0 Thoughts?=C2=A0 JoeB=
_______________________________________________
[email-masked]

yahoo.com

 =20
------=_Part_5258194_82968164.1695324935798
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp42159c9byahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px=
;"><div></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">I've read a number of respon=
ses to this and all are good ideas.&nbsp; When I was racing with an A-Type =
overdrive, I met a guy from St. Louis named Bill Boemmler, a TR-3 racer fro=
m the 50's &amp; 60's.&nbsp; Bill was also a skilled machinist and had a sm=
all machine shop behind his house.&nbsp; Everything I know about the A-Type=
 overdrive, I learned from Bill.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false=
"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">The bottom of the adapte=
r plate is fastened by 2 studs, one in each corner.&nbsp; It generally leak=
s between these 2 studs.&nbsp; Bill would drill and tap for two additional =
small bolts (about 1/2" long), spaced evenly between the 2 studs.&nbsp; Two=
 holes were drilled in the adapter plate, aligned with two holes which were=
 drilled and tapped into the overdrive housing for a 1/4" - 20 hex bolt.&nb=
sp; This, of course, has to be done when the overdrive is apart, and the ho=
les are drilled and tapped into the rear of the O/D housing.&nbsp; When ass=
embling, it is a tight fit to get these two bolts in between the gearbox ho=
using and the adapter plate, so the bolts need to be short. just long enoug=
h to get a firm threading into the O/D housing.&nbsp; They should be secure=
d with either lock tight or safety wire.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=
=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">This process is=
 a little hard to explain, so if you want a better description either call =
me or contact me offline.&nbsp; I had Bill perform this modification on all=
 of my race and street car overdrives, and after this modification, I never=
 had a leak in this area.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br><=
/div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Cheers,</div><div dir=3D"ltr" d=
ata-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Jack<=
br></div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydpbcfd6533yahoo_quoted_5731179853" class=3D"ydpbc=
fd6533yahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 12:17:01 AM EDT, Joe=
 Boruch via Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div id=3D"ydpbcfd6533yiv9509853357"><div><div style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px=
;" class=3D"ydpbcfd6533yiv9509853357yahoo-style-wrap"><div dir=3D"ltr">I ha=
ve a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like it's leaking from nea=
r the adapter plate.&nbsp; I have never taken one apart.&nbsp; Can I just s=
eparate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or the adapter plate =
(I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate and am checking w=
ith John to see if he has one) and then reassemble without needing to take =
the OD apart further?&nbsp; There is a youtube video that shows an OD being=
 separated and it looks like it is do able.&nbsp; Thoughts?&nbsp; JoeB</div=
></div></div></div>_______________________________________________<br><a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">fot@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br><br><a href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com" rel=3D"nofollo=
w" target=3D"_blank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br><br>Donate: <a href=
=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.n=
et/archive" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e</a> <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot" rel=3D"nofollow" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot</a><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a=
 href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]" =
rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fo=
t/[email-masked]</a><br><br><br></div>
            </div>
        </div></body></html>
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From: Glenn Franco via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2023 16:57:56 -0400

--===============9093576734713228108==

--000000000000b9ffd60605e4bf68
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I have to chime in on issues with the A type overdrive. Thankfully I have
NO more A types to overhaul since they are a P.I.T.A. to do.
The hardest part, as stated, is lining up the 2 splines that will allow the
mainshaft to nest into the Planetary Gearset and Overrunning Clutch. You
basically need at least yourself and a helper to put it together. I
probably did 10-12 of these 2 or more years ago. First time we did one we
split the adapter plate pulling the O/D on to the transmission.
Unfortunately it was welded back together and the repair was a weak spot.
If you force the O/D onto the trans when pulling it back together with the
2 nuts on the O/D studs it will break or bend the plate.

The fasteners (6) that hold the plate to the back of the transmission are
drilled for safety wire. I used stainless safety wire on those after
torquing. Make sure you repeat the way the wire is routed through the bolt
heads. I had a couple transmissions leak because I didn't follow the
routing  properly. I mistakenly routed some of the wire near the base of
the plate fouling the gasket which resulted in an embarrassing 3 comebacks
on one transmission due to leaks.
Took awhile to figure it out, dumb mistake.

Glenn 74 TR6 Restored, 68 TR250 Frame Off in Progress, 73 BMW 2002

On Thu, Sep 21, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Nick Black via Fot <[email-masked].=
net>
wrote:

> Joe
> I agree, it=E2=80=99s the bolts that hold the od plate to the transmissio=
n. I
> recall that the torque on these bolts is about 25 lbs. the bolts are
> totally soft and will stretch forever with one or two additional pounds=
=E2=80=A6
> throw them away and use Allen head bolts drilled for safety wire. The sto=
ck
> bolts stretch and the plate gets loose and leaks.
>
> Sent from the wilds of NorCal
>
> On Sep 20, 2023, at 8:52 PM, Joe Boruch via Fot <[email-masked]>
> wrote:
>
> =EF=BB=BF
> I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like it's leaking
> from near the adapter plate.  I have never taken one apart.  Can I just
> separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or the adapter pla=
te
> (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate and am checking
> with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble without needing to ta=
ke
> the OD apart further?  There is a youtube video that shows an OD being
> separated and it looks like it is do able.
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
>
>
>

--000000000000b9ffd60605e4bf68
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>I have to chime in on issues with the A type overdriv=
e. Thankfully I have NO more A types to overhaul since they are a P.I.T.A. =
to do. <br></div><div>The hardest part, as stated, is lining up the 2 splin=
es that will allow the mainshaft to nest into the Planetary Gearset and Ove=
rrunning Clutch. You basically need at least yourself and a helper to put i=
t together. I probably did 10-12 of these 2 or more years ago. First time w=
e did one we split the adapter plate pulling the O/D on to the transmission=
. Unfortunately it was welded back together and the repair was a weak spot.=
 If you force the O/D onto the trans when pulling it back together with the=
 2 nuts on the O/D studs it will break or bend the plate.<br></div><div><br=
></div><div>The fasteners (6) that hold the plate to the back of the transm=
ission are drilled for safety wire. I used stainless safety wire on those a=
fter torquing. Make sure you repeat the way the wire is routed through the =
bolt heads. I had a couple transmissions leak because I didn&#39;t follow t=
he routing=C2=A0 properly. I mistakenly routed some of the wire near the ba=
se of the plate fouling the gasket which resulted in an embarrassing 3 come=
backs on one transmission due to leaks.</div><div>Took awhile to figure it =
out, dumb mistake.</div><div><br></div><div>Glenn 74 TR6 Restored, 68 TR250=
 Frame Off in Progress, 73 BMW 2002 <br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div=
 class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Sep 21=
, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Nick Black via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fot@auto=
x.team.net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D=
"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(2=
04,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Joe=C2=A0<div>I agree, it=
=E2=80=99s the bolts that hold the od plate to the transmission. I recall t=
hat the torque on these bolts is about 25 lbs. the bolts are totally soft a=
nd will stretch forever with one or two additional pounds=E2=80=A6 throw th=
em away and use Allen head bolts drilled for safety wire. The stock bolts s=
tretch and the plate gets loose and leaks.</div><div><br><div dir=3D"ltr">S=
ent from the wilds of NorCal=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote ty=
pe=3D"cite">On Sep 20, 2023, at 8:52 PM, Joe Boruch via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"=
mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wro=
te:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=
=EF=BB=BF<div style=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-seri=
f;font-size:13px"><div dir=3D"ltr">I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR=
4 that looks like it&#39;s leaking from near the adapter plate.=C2=A0 I hav=
e never taken one apart.=C2=A0 Can I just separate the OD from the trans an=
d replace the gaskets or the adapter plate (I&#39;ve heard that Quantum Mec=
hanics sells an uprated plate and am checking with John to see if he has on=
e) and then reassemble without needing to take the OD apart further?=C2=A0 =
There is a youtube video that shows an OD being separated and it looks like=
 it is do able.=C2=A0</div></div><span></span><br><span></span><br></div></=
blockquote></div></div>_______________________________________________<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]<=
/a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br>
<br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" targe=
t=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a> <a href=3D"http://www.team.n=
et/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://www.team.net/pipermail/fot<br>
t/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.=
net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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From: Greg Blake via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2023 16:24:30 -0500

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I=E2=80=99ll add one more to the great advice already provided. I drill out a=
nd helicoil all of those adapters plate bolt holes.=20

The last time I had leaks like you described, I opened the access plate to t=
he accumulator and found two bolts had completely backed out of their holes a=
nd were =E2=80=9Cresting=E2=80=9D near the piston.=20

I safety wire mine now.=20

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 21, 2023, at 15:14, Nick Black via Fot <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BFJoe=20
> I agree, it=E2=80=99s the bolts that hold the od plate to the transmission=
. I recall that the torque on these bolts is about 25 lbs. the bolts are tot=
ally soft and will stretch forever with one or two additional pounds=E2=80=A6=
 throw them away and use Allen head bolts drilled for safety wire. The stock=
 bolts stretch and the plate gets loose and leaks.
>>> On Sep 20, 2023, at 8:52 PM, Joe Boruch via Fot <[email-masked]> wro=
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3@=
icloud.com

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">I=E2=80=99ll add one more to the great advi=
ce already provided. I drill out and helicoil all of those adapters plate bo=
lt holes.&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>The last time I had leaks like you descri=
bed, I opened the access plate to the accumulator and found two bolts had co=
mpletely backed out of their holes and were =E2=80=9Cresting=E2=80=9D near t=
he piston.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>I safety wire mine now.&nbsp;</div=
><div><br></div><div><img src=3D"cid:7CE8F53E-4A36-4521-AD72-9712A73C3564" a=
lt=3D"IMG_1146"></div><div><br></div><div><img src=3D"cid:869E3855-4854-475B=
-B572-D14409EFDB90" alt=3D"IMG_1695"></div><div><br></div><div><br><div dir=3D=
"ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite=
">On Sep 21, 2023, at 15:14, Nick Black via Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt; w=
rote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=
=BB=BF<meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-=
8">Joe&nbsp;<div>I agree, it=E2=80=99s the bolts that hold the od plate to t=
he transmission. I recall that the torque on these bolts is about 25 lbs. th=
e bolts are totally soft and will stretch forever with one or two additional=
 pounds=E2=80=A6 throw them away and use Allen head bolts drilled for safety=
 wire. The stock bolts stretch and the plate gets loose and leaks.</div><div=
><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from the wilds of NorCal&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"l=
tr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Sep 20, 2023, at 8:52 PM, Joe Boruch vi=
a Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquot=
e type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div class=3D"yahoo-style-wrap" st=
yle=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13=
px;"><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">I have a leaky a-type OD in my s=
treet TR4 that looks like it's leaking from near the adapter plate.&nbsp; I h=
ave never taken one apart.&nbsp; Can I just separate the OD from the trans a=
nd replace the gaskets or the adapter plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechani=
cs sells an uprated plate and am checking with John to see if he has one) an=
d then reassemble without needing to take the OD apart further?&nbsp; There i=
s a youtube video that shows an OD being separated and it looks like it is d=
o able.&nbsp;</div></div><span></span><br><span></span><br></div></blockquot=
e></div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><spa=
n>[email-masked]</span><br><span></span><br><span>http://www.fot-racing.=
com</span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html=
</span><br><span>Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/=
pipermail/fot</span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mail=
man/options/fot/[email-masked]</span><br><span></span><br><span></sp=
an><br></div></blockquote></div></body></html>=

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From: M&M Hado via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2023 16:47:14 -0500

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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	charset="utf-8"
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All good suggestions and I would like to add a couple more on areas =
which have affected me in the past:

=20

The 8 springs are often referred to as =E2=80=9C4 long and 4 =
short=E2=80=9D but the springs are often approximately the same length.  =
Also, some are left hand wound and some are right hand wound.  Some have =
a paint mark (I=E2=80=99ve seen white, red, and blue) to differentiate =
the difference. =20

=20

To be sure I=E2=80=99m using the right ones in the right place, I test =
the springs by compressing each one to check their bound length.  I put =
it over a long threaded 5/16=E2=80=9D rod and compress with a nut on =
each end. Then measure or observe the bound length.  The =
=E2=80=9Clong=E2=80=9D spring will always be about 3/8=E2=80=9D to =
=C2=BD=E2=80=9D longer when completely compressed.  If a long spring is =
put in the wrong location, it will become coil bound when the overdrive =
is activated.  The result is that the clutch will not move enough to =
reach the brake ring and the OD will not engage.  Don=E2=80=99t ask me =
how I know this.

=20

Also, as Henry and John mentioned, the splines must be aligned before =
the shaft can be fully inserted and an old or spare A-type mainshaft =
(any TR2 through TR6 one will do since you are only using the back end =
of it).  How to get them aligned can be tricky once the OD is assembled. =
 It=E2=80=99s not just a matter of rotating the rear flange as you might =
think.  If the inside clutch face is against the annulus taper, both =
splines will rotate together when the rear flange is turned.  In order =
to get a relative movement to re-align them, the clutch must be pulled =
away from the annulus so the two can rotate separately until they are =
realigned.

=20

Hope this helps.

=20

Mike Hado

=20

From: Fot [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of R. John Lye =
via Fot
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2023 10:35 AM
To: [email-masked]; [email-masked]
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Fot] A-type OD leaks

=20

Hi Joe B..

This is very important, as I learned the hard way the first time that I =
put
an OD back together.  I thought that I had the splines line up, but in =
fact,
I only had the first set lined up and snapped a plate tightening it =
down.

Hope that helps,
John  =20

On Thu, 21 Sep 2023 07:29:34 -0400, yellow04 via Fot =
<[email-masked]> wrote:
 =20

Joe,

If your gearbox has slowly started leaking around the adapter plate, in =
all likelihood the issue is the six bolts that hold the plate to the =
back of the gearbox have loosened up. If nobody safety wired them or =
didn't use any kind of threadlocker on them, this is typically the =
problem when leaks slowly start in this area. The likelihood of needing =
to replace the adapter plate is not all that high, assuming the leak is =
not huge and you have not been driving the car with copious amounts of =
oil leaking about.

The adapter plate is not part of the overdrive unit, so replacing only =
the adapter plate is not too difficult. Six nuts hold the OD unit to the =
adapter plate, remove the nuts from the 4 short studs first, then start =
working the nuts on the two long studs evenly, and spring pressure =
should separate the OD unit from the adapter plate. Pay attention to the =
8 springs as you slide the OD unit off the mainshaft, when they fall out =
they like to roll under things. Place the OD unit aside, other that =
cleaning the gasket surface you will not be messing with that.

I use the little bottle of Permatex Aviation gasket sealer for gearboxs, =
seems to work well for me.

The six bolts that attach the adapter plate to the back of the gearbox =
case are now visible, if these bolts are not properly torqued you just =
found the source of your leak. Remove them, clean up your gasket =
surfaces and reseal. The same gasket is used here as the non-overdrive =
gearbox.  Rimmers sells bolts specifically for this application, they =
have threadlocker that is safe for the aluminum case on the threads. =
They have been working for me. These 6 bolts may be safety wired, always =
a good idea if you don't buy a set of new bolts from Rimmers. If you go =
the safety wire route, pay attention to the parts as it is easy to run =
the wire in such a way that it fouls when the OD unit is installed.

The last adapter plate I bought from Rimmers was embossed with "ORS", I =
believe it was made by Overdrive Repair Services, the business started =
by Laycock employees after Laycock closed their doors. I didn't really =
compare it to a Triumph adapter plate, but I can see how John Esposito =
might call it an upgraded adapter plate. If you need one, I'd just order =
it from Rimmers along with those 6 bolts.=20

Assembling the OD unit back onto the gearbox is where the real fun is, =
you need to line up two sets of splines in the OD unit, compress the 8 =
springs and make sure you don't foul the oil pump plunger on the cam. =
Many ways to accomplish this, some are tedious, frustrating, and can =
completely drive you crazy. The easiest way I have found is to safety =
wire the pump plunger, install the pump drive cam and make sure it is =
pointing away from the pump, apply the sealant to the gasket and place =
in on the OD unit, align the splines in the OD unit, (a spare OD =
mainshaft is really helpful with this) and offer up the OD unit to the =
box. Slowly slide the unit on assuring everything is lined up until the =
gasket is almost touching the adapter plate. Then, install the nuts and =
washers on the long studs only a couple of turns. Then you slide the OD =
unit backwards WITHOUT TURNING the rear flange until it hits the nuts. =
Then you install the 8 springs in their correct position, (shorts go =
inboard, longs go outboard) by stuffing them onto their posts on the =
sliding member then levering the other end onto the nubs on the adapter =
plate. Take a really good look to make sure you have all 8 springs =
correctly installed, then tighten the nuts equally to draw the OD unit =
home. Then install the 4 nuts and washers on the short studs, remove the =
safety wire on the oil pump plunger, refill with oil and you are good to =
go.

If you run into problems or need to borrow a spare OD mainshaft to line =
up the splines in the OD unit, feel free to reach out!

Henry

I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like it's leaking =
from near the adapter plate.  I have never taken one apart.  Can I just =
separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or the adapter =
plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate and am =
checking with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble without =
needing to take the OD apart further?  There is a youtube video that =
shows an OD being separated and it looks like it is do able.  Thoughts?  =
JoeB

Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]

 =20

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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>All good =
suggestions and I would like to add a couple more on areas which have =
affected me in the past:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>The 8 springs are =
often referred to as =E2=80=9C4 long and 4 short=E2=80=9D but the =
springs are often approximately the same length.=C2=A0 Also, some are =
left hand wound and some are right hand wound.=C2=A0 Some have a paint =
mark (I=E2=80=99ve seen white, red, and blue) to differentiate the =
difference.=C2=A0 <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>To be sure =
I=E2=80=99m using the right ones in the right place, I test the springs =
by compressing each one to check their bound length.=C2=A0 I put it over =
a long threaded 5/16=E2=80=9D rod and compress with a nut on each end. =
Then measure or observe the bound length.=C2=A0 The =
=E2=80=9Clong=E2=80=9D spring will always be about 3/8=E2=80=9D to =
=C2=BD=E2=80=9D longer when completely compressed.=C2=A0 If a long =
spring is put in the wrong location, it will become coil bound when the =
overdrive is activated.=C2=A0 The result is that the clutch will not =
move enough to reach the brake ring and the OD will not engage.=C2=A0 =
Don=E2=80=99t ask me how I know this.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Also, as Henry =
and John mentioned, the splines must be aligned before the shaft can be =
fully inserted and an old or spare A-type mainshaft (any TR2 through TR6 =
one will do since you are only using the back end of it).=C2=A0 How to =
get them aligned can be tricky once the OD is assembled.=C2=A0 =
It=E2=80=99s not just a matter of rotating the rear flange as you might =
think.=C2=A0 If the inside clutch face is against the annulus taper, =
both splines will rotate together when the rear flange is turned. =
=C2=A0In order to get a relative movement to re-align them, the clutch =
must be pulled away from the annulus so the two can rotate separately =
until they are realigned.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Hope this =
helps.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Mike =
Hado<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><a =
name=3D"_MailEndCompose"><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/span></a></p><div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF =
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Fot [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of </b>R. John Lye =
via Fot<br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, September 21, 2023 10:35 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> [email-masked]; [email-masked]<br><b>Cc:</b> =
[email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Fot] A-type OD =
leaks<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Hi Joe =
B..<br><br>Henry says &quot; you need to line up two sets of splines in =
the OD unit &quot;<br><br>This is very important, as I learned the hard =
way the first time that I put<br>an OD back together.&nbsp; I thought =
that I had the splines line up, but in fact,<br>I only had the first set =
lined up and snapped a plate tightening it down.<br><br>Hope that =
helps,<br>John &nbsp; <br><br>On Thu, 21 Sep 2023 07:29:34 -0400, =
yellow04 via Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br>&nbsp; =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Joe,<o:p></o:p></s=
pan></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>If your gearbox =
has slowly started leaking around the adapter plate, in all likelihood =
the issue is the six bolts that hold the plate to the back of the =
gearbox have loosened up. If nobody safety wired them or didn't use any =
kind of threadlocker on them, this is typically the problem when leaks =
slowly start in this area. The likelihood of needing to replace the =
adapter plate is not all that high, assuming the leak is not huge and =
you have not been driving the car with copious amounts of oil leaking =
about.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>The adapter plate =
is not part of the overdrive unit, so replacing only the adapter plate =
is not too difficult. Six nuts hold the OD unit to the adapter plate, =
remove the nuts from the 4 short studs first, then start working the =
nuts on the two long studs evenly, and spring pressure should separate =
the OD unit from the adapter plate. Pay attention to the 8 springs as =
you slide the OD unit off the mainshaft, when they fall out they like to =
roll under things. Place the OD unit aside, other that cleaning the =
gasket surface you will not be messing with =
that.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>I use the little =
bottle of Permatex Aviation gasket sealer for gearboxs, seems to work =
well for me.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>The six bolts =
that attach the adapter plate to the back of the gearbox case are now =
visible, if these bolts are not properly torqued you just found the =
source of your leak. Remove them, clean up your gasket surfaces and =
reseal. The same gasket is used here as the non-overdrive gearbox.&nbsp; =
Rimmers sells bolts specifically for this application, they have =
threadlocker that is safe for the aluminum case on the threads. They =
have been working for me.&nbsp;These 6 bolts may be safety wired, always =
a good idea if you don't buy a set of new bolts from Rimmers. If you go =
the safety wire route, pay attention to the parts as it is easy to run =
the wire in such a way that it fouls when the OD unit is =
installed.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>The last adapter =
plate I bought from Rimmers was embossed with &quot;ORS&quot;, I believe =
it was made by Overdrive Repair Services, the business started by =
Laycock employees after Laycock closed their doors. I didn't really =
compare it to a Triumph adapter plate, but I can see how John Esposito =
might call it an upgraded adapter plate. If you need one, I'd just order =
it from Rimmers along with those 6 =
bolts.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Assembling the OD =
unit back onto the gearbox is where the real fun is, you need to line up =
two sets of splines in the OD unit, compress the 8 springs and make sure =
you don't foul the oil pump plunger on the cam. Many ways to accomplish =
this, some are tedious, frustrating, and can completely drive you crazy. =
The easiest way I have found is to safety wire the pump plunger, install =
the pump drive cam and make sure it is pointing away from the pump, =
apply the sealant to the gasket and place in on the OD unit, align the =
splines in the OD unit, (a spare OD mainshaft is really helpful with =
this) and offer up the OD unit to the box. Slowly slide the unit on =
assuring everything is lined up until the gasket is almost touching the =
adapter plate. Then, install the nuts and washers on the long studs only =
a couple of turns. Then you slide the OD unit backwards WITHOUT TURNING =
the rear flange until it hits the nuts. Then you install the 8 springs =
in their correct position, (shorts go inboard, longs go outboard) by =
stuffing them onto their posts on the sliding member then levering the =
other end onto the nubs on the adapter plate. Take a really good look to =
make sure you have all 8 springs correctly installed, then tighten the =
nuts equally to draw the OD unit home. Then install the 4 nuts and =
washers on the short studs, remove the safety wire on the oil pump =
plunger, refill with oil and you are good to =
go.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>If you run into =
problems or need to borrow a spare OD mainshaft to line up the splines =
in the OD unit, feel free to reach out!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Henry<o:p></o:p></=
span></p><p id=3Dreply-intro><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>On 2023-09-20 =
19:23, Joe Boruch via Fot wrote:<o:p></o:p></span></p><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #1010FF 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
5.0pt;margin-left:0in;margin-right:0in'><div =
id=3Dreplybody1><div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:blac=
k'>I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like it's =
leaking from near the adapter plate.&nbsp; I have never taken one =
apart.&nbsp; Can I just separate the OD from the trans and replace the =
gaskets or the adapter plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an =
uprated plate and am checking with John to see if he has one) and then =
reassemble without needing to take the OD apart further?&nbsp; There is =
a youtube video that shows an OD being separated and it looks like it is =
do able.&nbsp; Thoughts?&nbsp; =
JoeB<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></div></blockquote><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>__________________=
_____________________________<br>[email-masked]<br><br>http://www.fot=
-racing.com<br><br>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Archive: =
http://autox.team.net/archive =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]<br><br>&nbsp; =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></body></html>
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From: "R. John Lye via Fot" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2023 22:58:49 -0400

--===============5629346240597669238==
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=09

Wow, Bill Boemmler is a name that I recognize from my time in St. Louis.=C2=
=A0 He was indeed
a skilled machinist and did some really cool tricks just like Jack describe=
d.

Thanks,
John
=C2=A0

On Thu, 21 Sep 2023 19:35:35 +0000 (UTC), Jack Wheeler via Fot <fot@autox=
=2Eteam.net> wrote:
=C2=A0

=C2=A0

I've read a number of responses to this and all are good ideas.=C2=A0 When =
I was racing with an A-Type overdrive, I met a guy from St. Louis named Bil=
l Boemmler, a TR-3 racer from the 50's & 60's.=C2=A0 Bill was also a skille=
d machinist and had a small machine shop behind his house.=C2=A0 Everything=
 I know about the A-Type overdrive, I learned from Bill.

=C2=A0

The bottom of the adapter plate is fastened by 2 studs, one in each corner=
=2E=C2=A0 It generally leaks between these 2 studs.=C2=A0 Bill would drill =
and tap for two additional small bolts (about 1/2" long), spaced evenly bet=
ween the 2 studs.=C2=A0 Two holes were drilled in the adapter plate, aligne=
d with two holes which were drilled and tapped into the overdrive housing f=
or a 1/4" - 20 hex bolt.=C2=A0 This, of course, has to be done when the ove=
rdrive is apart, and the holes are drilled and tapped into the rear of the =
O/D housing.=C2=A0 When assembling, it is a tight fit to get these two bolt=
s in between the gearbox housing and the adapter plate, so the bolts need t=
o be short. just long enough to get a firm threading into the O/D housing=
=2E=C2=A0 They should be secured with either lock tight or safety wire.

=C2=A0

=C2=A0

Cheers,

=C2=A0

Jack

=C2=A0

On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 12:17:01 AM EDT, Joe Boruch via Fot <fot=
@autox.team.net> wrote:

=C2=A0

=C2=A0

=C2=A0

=C2=A0

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<head>
	<title></title>
</head>
<body>
<div class=3D"userStyles" style=3D" font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; co=
lor: #000000;">Wow, Bill Boemmler is a name that I recognize from my time i=
n St. Louis.&nbsp; He was indeed<br>
a skilled machinist and did some really cool tricks just like Jack describe=
d.<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
John
<footer class=3D"signatureContainer" style=3D"display:inline;">&nbsp;</foot=
er>

<footer class=3D"replyforwardcontainer"><br>
<br>
<span>On Thu, 21 Sep 2023 19:35:35 +0000 (UTC), Jack Wheeler via Fot &lt;fo=
[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</span><br>
&nbsp;
<div class=3D"ydp42159c9byahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:Helvetica N=
eue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;">
<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">I've read a number of responses to t=
his and all are good ideas.&nbsp; When I was racing with an A-Type overdriv=
e, I met a guy from St. Louis named Bill Boemmler, a TR-3 racer from the 50=
's &amp; 60's.&nbsp; Bill was also a skilled machinist and had a small mach=
ine shop behind his house.&nbsp; Everything I know about the A-Type overdri=
ve, I learned from Bill.</div>

<div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp;</div>

<div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">The bottom of the adapter plate is f=
astened by 2 studs, one in each corner.&nbsp; It generally leaks between th=
ese 2 studs.&nbsp; Bill would drill and tap for two additional small bolts =
(about 1/2" long), spaced evenly between the 2 studs.&nbsp; Two holes were =
drilled in the adapter plate, aligned with two holes which were drilled and=
 tapped into the overdrive housing for a 1/4" - 20 hex bolt.&nbsp; This, of=
 course, has to be done when the overdrive is apart, and the holes are dril=
led and tapped into the rear of the O/D housing.&nbsp; When assembling, it =
is a tight fit to get these two bolts in between the gearbox housing and th=
e adapter plate, so the bolts need to be short. just long enough to get a f=
irm threading into the O/D housing.&nbsp; They should be secured with eithe=
r lock tight or safety wire.</div>

<div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp;</div>

<div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">This process is a little hard to exp=
lain, so if you want a better description either call me or contact me offl=
ine.&nbsp; I had Bill perform this modification on all of my race and stree=
t car overdrives, and after this modification, I never had a leak in this a=
rea.</div>

<div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp;</div>

<div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">Cheers,</div>

<div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp;</div>

<div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">Jack</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>

<div class=3D"ydpbcfd6533yahoo_quoted" id=3D"ydpbcfd6533yahoo_quoted_573117=
9853">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
<div>On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 12:17:01 AM EDT, Joe Boruch via Fot=
 &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>
<div id=3D"ydpbcfd6533yiv9509853357">
<div>
<div class=3D"ydpbcfd6533yiv9509853357yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-famil=
y:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;">
<div dir=3D"ltr">I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like =
it's leaking from near the adapter plate.&nbsp; I have never taken one apar=
t.&nbsp; Can I just separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets =
or the adapter plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated pl=
ate and am checking with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble wit=
hout needing to take the OD apart further?&nbsp; There is a youtube video t=
hat shows an OD being separated and it looks like it is do able.&nbsp; Thou=
ghts?&nbsp; JoeB</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">fo=
[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://www.fot-racing.com</a><br>
<br>
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"nofollow" target=
=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a> <a href=3D"http://www.team.ne=
t/pipermail/fot" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pip=
ermail/fot</a><br>
[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team=
=2Enet/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
&nbsp;</div>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
[email-masked]<br>
<br>
http://www.fot-racing.com<br>
<br>
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot<br=
=2Enet<br>
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&nbsp;</footer>
</div>

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From: f s via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2023 12:44:15 +0000

--===============0663695547395564213==
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	boundary="_000_BL1P220MB08048F33D8ACA99AFC67A276C1FFABL1P220MB0804NAMP_"

--_000_BL1P220MB08048F33D8ACA99AFC67A276C1FFABL1P220MB0804NAMP_
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I knew Bill when I was a kid. He rebuilt a diff for me.

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: "R. John Lye via Fot" <[email-masked]>
Date: 9/21/23 10:46 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: [email-masked], [email-masked], [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Fot] A-type OD leaks

Wow, Bill Boemmler is a name that I recognize from my time in St. Louis.  H=
e was indeed
a skilled machinist and did some really cool tricks just like Jack describe=
d.

Thanks,
John

On Thu, 21 Sep 2023 19:35:35 +0000 (UTC), Jack Wheeler via Fot <[email-masked]=
eam.net> wrote:

I've read a number of responses to this and all are good ideas.  When I was=
 racing with an A-Type overdrive, I met a guy from St. Louis named Bill Boe=
mmler, a TR-3 racer from the 50's & 60's.  Bill was also a skilled machinis=
t and had a small machine shop behind his house.  Everything I know about t=
he A-Type overdrive, I learned from Bill.

The bottom of the adapter plate is fastened by 2 studs, one in each corner.=
  It generally leaks between these 2 studs.  Bill would drill and tap for t=
wo additional small bolts (about 1/2" long), spaced evenly between the 2 st=
uds.  Two holes were drilled in the adapter plate, aligned with two holes w=
hich were drilled and tapped into the overdrive housing for a 1/4" - 20 hex=
 bolt.  This, of course, has to be done when the overdrive is apart, and th=
e holes are drilled and tapped into the rear of the O/D housing.  When asse=
mbling, it is a tight fit to get these two bolts in between the gearbox hou=
sing and the adapter plate, so the bolts need to be short. just long enough=
 to get a firm threading into the O/D housing.  They should be secured with=
 either lock tight or safety wire.

This process is a little hard to explain, so if you want a better descripti=
on either call me or contact me offline.  I had Bill perform this modificat=
ion on all of my race and street car overdrives, and after this modificatio=
n, I never had a leak in this area.

Cheers,

Jack

I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like it's leaking from=
 near the adapter plate.  I have never taken one apart.  Can I just separat=
e the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or the adapter plate (I've =
heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate and am checking with Jo=
hn to see if he has one) and then reassemble without needing to take the OD=
 apart further?  There is a youtube video that shows an OD being separated =
and it looks like it is do able.  Thoughts?  JoeB
_______________________________________________

net

--_000_BL1P220MB08048F33D8ACA99AFC67A276C1FFABL1P220MB0804NAMP_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii"=
</head>
<body>
<div dir=3D"auto">I knew Bill when I was a kid. He rebuilt a diff for me.</=
div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div id=3D"composer_signature" dir=3D"auto">
<div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:12px; color:#575757">Sent from my T-Mo=
bile 4G LTE Device</div>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>-------- Original message --------</div>
<div>From: &quot;R. John Lye via Fot&quot; &lt;[email-masked]&gt; </div=
<div>Date: 9/21/23 10:46 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
<div>To: [email-masked], [email-masked], [email-masked] </d=
iv>
<div>Subject: Re: [Fot] A-type OD leaks </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>
<div class=3D"userStyles" style=3D"font-family:Arial; font-size:12pt; color=
:#000000">
Wow, Bill Boemmler is a name that I recognize from my time in St. Louis.&nb=
sp; He was indeed<br>
a skilled machinist and did some really cool tricks just like Jack describe=
d.<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
John &nbsp; <br>
<br>
<span>On Thu, 21 Sep 2023 19:35:35 +0000 (UTC), Jack Wheeler via Fot &lt;fo=
[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</span><br>
&nbsp;
<div class=3D"ydp42159c9byahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:Helvetica N=
eue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:13px">
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">I've read a number of responses to this and all are good i=
deas.&nbsp; When I was racing with an A-Type overdrive, I met a guy from St=
. Louis named Bill Boemmler, a TR-3 racer from the 50's &amp; 60's.&nbsp; B=
ill was also a skilled machinist and had a small
 machine shop behind his house.&nbsp; Everything I know about the A-Type ov=
erdrive, I learned from Bill.</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">The bottom of the adapter plate is fastened by 2 studs, on=
e in each corner.&nbsp; It generally leaks between these 2 studs.&nbsp; Bil=
l would drill and tap for two additional small bolts (about 1/2&quot; long)=
, spaced evenly between the 2 studs.&nbsp; Two holes were
 drilled in the adapter plate, aligned with two holes which were drilled an=
d tapped into the overdrive housing for a 1/4&quot; - 20 hex bolt.&nbsp; Th=
is, of course, has to be done when the overdrive is apart, and the holes ar=
e drilled and tapped into the rear of the
 O/D housing.&nbsp; When assembling, it is a tight fit to get these two bol=
ts in between the gearbox housing and the adapter plate, so the bolts need =
to be short. just long enough to get a firm threading into the O/D housing.=
&nbsp; They should be secured with either
 lock tight or safety wire.</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">This process is a little hard to explain, so if you want a=
 better description either call me or contact me offline.&nbsp; I had Bill =
perform this modification on all of my race and street car overdrives, and =
after this modification, I never had a
 leak in this area.</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Cheers,</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Jack</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"ydpbcfd6533yahoo_quoted" id=3D"ydpbcfd6533yahoo_quoted_573117=
9853">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font=
-size:13px; color:#26282a">
<div>On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 12:17:01 AM EDT, Joe Boruch via Fot=
 &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"ydpbcfd6533yiv9509853357">
<div>
<div class=3D"ydpbcfd6533yiv9509853357yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-famil=
y:Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:13px">
<div dir=3D"ltr">I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like =
it's leaking from near the adapter plate.&nbsp; I have never taken one apar=
t.&nbsp; Can I just separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets =
or the adapter plate (I've heard that Quantum
 Mechanics sells an uprated plate and am checking with John to see if he ha=
s one) and then reassemble without needing to take the OD apart further?&nb=
sp; There is a youtube video that shows an OD being separated and it looks =
like it is do able.&nbsp; Thoughts?&nbsp; JoeB</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">fo=
[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
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From: "Henry A. Morrison via Fot" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2023 19:17:29 +0000

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From: yellow04 via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2023 06:26:38 -0400

Regarding the installation of the OD unit to the gearbox...

It sounds like a lot of people have bent or broken adapter plates trying 
to get everything aligned and back together. When drawing the OD unit 
home by tightening equally the nuts on the two long studs, if everything 
is aligned properly at no point does the unit get hung up. If you 
experience any binding, especially in the last inch +/- 1/2 inch, STOP. 
Either the splines are not perfectly aligned, or you are fouling the 
pump plunger. Evenly back off the two nuts, remove the OD unit and start 
again. Failure to do this will bend or break the adapter plate, or if 
you are hanging up on the oil pump, you will bend the plunger shaft.

For years I followed the instructions out there on installing the OD 
unit to the gearbox, install the springs on the sliding member, then 
offer up the OD unit. Some like to do it with the gearbox vertical, some 
prefer horizontal. Both methods can be a huge source of frustration, as 
the springs hold the OD unit pretty far from the adapter plate. As Mike 
Hado point out, once the springs are under pressure, they are locking 
the cone clutch in place on the annulus. One would think that is a good 
thing, you have aligned the splines using a dummy mainshaft, not moved 
anything, in theory it should just slide right home. Well, several folks 
here have posted, more often than not, it doesn't.

Once Tim Hutchisen turned me on to the process I described on my 
original post, aligning everything with no springs installed then 
stuffing the springs into place, mating the OD unit to the gearbox 
became pretty easy and frustration free. Sure, it's messy as you can't 
avoid get the sealant on your gloves/hands, but it works every time. One 
thing I didn't mention as I thought it was obvious, but this is done 
with the gearbox horizontal, on a gearbox stand or the bench.

Henry Frye

On 2023-09-21 17:47, M&M Hado wrote:

> It's not just a matter of rotating the rear flange as you might think.  
> If the inside clutch face is against the annulus taper, both splines 
> will rotate together when the rear flange is turned.  In order to get a 
> relative movement to re-align them, the clutch must be pulled away from 
> the annulus so the two can rotate separately until they are realigned.
> 
> Mike Hado
> 
> From:  John Lye
> 
> an OD back together.  I thought that I had the splines line up, but in 
> fact,
> On Thu, 21 Sep 2023 07:29:34 -0400, yellow04 wrote:
> 
> Joe,
> 
> home. Then install the 4 nuts and washers on the short studs, remove 
> the safety wire on the oil pump plunger, refill with oil and you are 
> good to go.

---

From: fubog1 via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2023 13:15:50 +0000 (UTC)

--===============7174432375286161063==
	boundary="----=_Part_6006588_653863135.1695474950093"

------=_Part_6006588_653863135.1695474950093
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 I would 1st check that the solenoid & adjustment is correct, in no love th=
en do a pressure check, & also make sure the filter isn't full of clutch ma=
terial.

Glen Efinger
    On Friday, September 22, 2023 at 07:51:17 PM EDT, Henry A. Morrison via=
 Fot <[email-masked]> wrote: =20
=20
 My current overdrive rebuild went so well with me replacing a variety of l=
inings and washers that were shot or just not installed by the previous reb=
uilder.=C2=A0 I thought all the pressure producing bits looked good so most=
ly left them alone.=C2=A0 I did the pressure test when I got it all back to=
gether and it was close to where it was supposed to be.=C2=A0 I drove the c=
ar once and it seemed to work, drove it again and it dropped into overdrive=
 whenever I lifted off the gas and dropped out again when power was re appl=
ied.=C2=A0 This is pretty much what the thing was doing when I started the =
project and I'm sure was the reason for my slower than they should have bee=
n lap times at the Cup!=C2=A0=C2=A0
Any suggestions on what to do next?=C2=A0
Cheers, Henry Morrison
From: Fot <[email-masked]> on behalf of Glenn Franco via Fot <f=
[email-masked]>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2023 2:57 PM
To: Nick Black <[email-masked]>
Cc: Joe Boruch <[email-masked]>; FOT Triumph <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Fot] A-type OD leaks=C2=A0I have to chime in on issues with t=
he A type overdrive. Thankfully I have NO more A types to overhaul since th=
ey are a P.I.T.A. to do.
The hardest part, as stated, is lining up the 2 splines that will allow the=
 mainshaft to nest into the Planetary Gearset and Overrunning Clutch. You b=
asically need at least yourself and a helper to put it together. I probably=
 did 10-12 of these 2 or more years ago. First time we did one we split the=
 adapter plate pulling the O/D on to the transmission. Unfortunately it was=
 welded back together and the repair was a weak spot. If you force the O/D =
onto the trans when pulling it back together with the 2 nuts on the O/D stu=
ds it will break or bend the plate.

The fasteners (6) that hold the plate to the back of the transmission are d=
rilled for safety wire. I used stainless safety wire on those after torquin=
g. Make sure you repeat the way the wire is routed through the bolt heads. =
I had a couple transmissions leak because I didn't follow the routing=C2=A0=
 properly. I mistakenly routed some of the wire near the base of the plate =
fouling the gasket which resulted in an embarrassing 3 comebacks on one tra=
nsmission due to leaks.Took awhile to figure it out, dumb mistake.
Glenn 74 TR6 Restored, 68 TR250 Frame Off in Progress, 73 BMW 2002=20

net> wrote:

Joe=C2=A0I agree, it=E2=80=99s the bolts that hold the od plate to the tran=
smission. I recall that the torque on these bolts is about 25 lbs. the bolt=
s are totally soft and will stretch forever with one or two additional poun=
ds=E2=80=A6 throw them away and use Allen head bolts drilled for safety wir=
e. The stock bolts stretch and the plate gets loose and leaks.
Sent from the wilds of NorCal=C2=A0

On Sep 20, 2023, at 8:52 PM, Joe Boruch via Fot <[email-masked]> wrote:

=EF=BB=BFI have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like it's lea=
king from near the adapter plate.=C2=A0 I have never taken one apart.=C2=A0=
 Can I just separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or the a=
dapter plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate and =
am checking with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble without nee=
ding to take the OD apart further?=C2=A0 There is a youtube video that show=
s an OD being separated and it looks like it is do able.=C2=A0

 =20
------=_Part_6006588_653863135.1695474950093
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp4bd2e282yahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">I would 1st check that the s=
olenoid &amp; adjustment is correct, in no love then do a pressure check, &=
amp; also make sure the filter isn't full of clutch material.<br></div><div=
><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Glen Efinger</div><div di=
r=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydp6e4629b9yahoo_quoted_5736503734" class=3D"ydp6e=
4629b9yahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Friday, September 22, 2023 at 07:51:17 PM EDT, Henry=
 A. Morrison via Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div id=3D"ydp6e4629b9yiv1141843550"><div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);" class=3D"ydp6e4629b9yiv1141843550elementToProof">
My current overdrive rebuild went so well with me replacing a variety of li=
nings and washers that were shot or just not installed by the previous rebu=
ilder.&nbsp; I thought all the pressure producing bits looked good so mostl=
y left them alone.&nbsp; I did the pressure
 test when I got it all back together and it was close to where it was supp=
osed to be.&nbsp; I drove the car once and it seemed to work, drove it agai=
n and it dropped into overdrive whenever I lifted off the gas and dropped o=
ut again when power was re applied.&nbsp;
 This is pretty much what the thing was doing when I started the project an=
d I'm sure was the reason for my slower than they should have been lap time=
s at the Cup!&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);" class=3D"ydp6e4629b9yiv1141843550elementToProof">
<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);" class=3D"ydp6e4629b9yiv1141843550elementToProof">
Any suggestions on what to do next?&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);" class=3D"ydp6e4629b9yiv1141843550elementToProof">
<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);" class=3D"ydp6e4629b9yiv1141843550elementToProof">
Cheers, Henry Morrison</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);" class=3D"ydp6e4629b9yiv1141843550elementToProof">
<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div id=3D"ydp6e4629b9yiv1141843550appendonsend"></div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%;" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"ydp6e4629b9yiv1141843550yqt49226" class=3D"ydp6e4629b9yiv1141843=
550yqt6592226109"><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"ydp6e4629b9yiv1141843550divRplyFwd=
Msg"><font style=3D"font-size:11pt;" face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"=
#000000"><b>From:</b> Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of G=
lenn Franco via Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, September 21, 2023 2:57 PM<br clear=3D"none">
<b>To:</b> Nick Black &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
<b>Cc:</b> Joe Boruch &lt;[email-masked]&gt;; FOT Triumph &lt;fot@autox=
.team.net&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Fot] A-type OD leaks</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>I have to chime in on issues with the A type overdrive. Thankfully I h=
ave NO more A types to overhaul since they are a P.I.T.A. to do.
<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>The hardest part, as stated, is lining up the 2 splines that will allo=
w the mainshaft to nest into the Planetary Gearset and Overrunning Clutch. =
You basically need at least yourself and a helper to put it together. I pro=
bably did 10-12 of these 2 or more
 years ago. First time we did one we split the adapter plate pulling the O/=
D on to the transmission. Unfortunately it was welded back together and the=
 repair was a weak spot. If you force the O/D onto the trans when pulling i=
t back together with the 2 nuts
 on the O/D studs it will break or bend the plate.<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>The fasteners (6) that hold the plate to the back of the transmission =
are drilled for safety wire. I used stainless safety wire on those after to=
rquing. Make sure you repeat the way the wire is routed through the bolt he=
ads. I had a couple transmissions
 leak because I didn't follow the routing&nbsp; properly. I mistakenly rout=
ed some of the wire near the base of the plate fouling the gasket which res=
ulted in an embarrassing 3 comebacks on one transmission due to leaks.</div=
<div>Took awhile to figure it out, dumb mistake.</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>Glenn 74 TR6 Restored, 68 TR250 Frame Off in Progress, 73 BMW 2002 <br=
 clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"ydp6e4629b9yiv1141843550x_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"ydp6e4629b9yiv1141843550x_gmail_attr">On Thu, Sep=
 21, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Nick Black via Fot &lt;<a shape=3D"rect" href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">fot@autox=
.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class=3D"ydp6e4629b9yiv1141843550x_gmail_quote=
">
<div>Joe&nbsp;
<div>I agree, it=E2=80=99s the bolts that hold the od plate to the transmis=
sion. I recall that the torque on these bolts is about 25 lbs. the bolts ar=
e totally soft and will stretch forever with one or two additional pounds=
=E2=80=A6 throw them away and use Allen head bolts
 drilled for safety wire. The stock bolts stretch and the plate gets loose =
and leaks.</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from the wilds of NorCal&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none">
<blockquote type=3D"cite">On Sep 20, 2023, at 8:52 PM, Joe Boruch via Fot &=
lt;<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
<div style=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font=
-size:13px;">
<div dir=3D"ltr">I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like =
it's leaking from near the adapter plate.&nbsp; I have never taken one apar=
t.&nbsp; Can I just separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets =
or the adapter plate (I've heard that Quantum
 Mechanics sells an uprated plate and am checking with John to see if he ha=
s one) and then reassemble without needing to take the OD apart further?&nb=
sp; There is a youtube video that shows an OD being separated and it looks =
like it is do able.&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br clear=3D"none">
<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" targe=
t=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com" rel=3D"nofollow" targe=
t=3D"_blank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
ofollow" target=3D"_blank">
Archive: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"no=
follow" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/archive</a> <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.team=
.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot<br clear=3D"none">
lman/options/fot/[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]</a><br clear=3D"=
none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
</blockquote>
</div>
</div></div>
</div></div><div class=3D"ydp6e4629b9yqt6592226109" id=3D"ydp6e4629b9yqt210=
48">_______________________________________________<br clear=3D"none"><a sh=
ape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"=
_blank">[email-masked]</a><br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none"><a shap=
e=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_b=
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nate: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"nof=
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ne">Archive: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=
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cribe/Manage: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/optio=
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From: "J.C. Hassall via Fot" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2023 11:56:27 -0400

--===============3738673857834751535==

--00000000000020ab1b060608c5cb
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

One tip I'll add:  It is very easy to bend the pump plunger. Rotate the
pump cam so that the lobe is away from the pump.  Then use a piece of fine
(~28AWG) wire or very stout thread to pull the pump into the fully
compressed position (to clear the lobe) before trying to mate the gbx and
OD.  After the units are mated sufficiently to ensure that the pump is
clear of the cam, release the pump.  Bob's your uncle.

jim

On Sat, Sep 23, 2023 at 6:42=E2=80=AFAM yellow04 via Fot <[email-masked]=
t> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
>
>
>

--=20
jim  W4BEA

--00000000000020ab1b060608c5cb
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr">One tip I&#39;ll add:=C2=A0 It is very ea=
sy to bend the pump plunger.=C2=A0Rotate the pump cam=C2=A0so that the lobe=
 is away from the pump.=C2=A0 Then use a piece of fine (~28AWG) wire or ver=
y stout thread to pull the pump into the fully compressed position (to clea=
r the=C2=A0lobe) before trying to mate the gbx and OD.=C2=A0 After the unit=
s are mated sufficiently to ensure that the pump is clear of the cam, relea=
se the pump.=C2=A0 Bob&#39;s your uncle.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><d=
iv>jim</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_=
attr">On Sat, Sep 23, 2023 at 6:42=E2=80=AFAM yellow04 via Fot &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><=
blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-l=
eft:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Regarding the installation=
 of the OD unit to the gearbox...<br>
<br>
It sounds like a lot of people have bent or broken adapter plates trying <b=
r>
to get everything aligned and back together. When drawing the OD unit <br>
home by tightening equally the nuts on the two long studs, if everything <b=
r>
is aligned properly at no point does the unit get hung up. If you <br>
experience any binding, especially in the last inch +/- 1/2 inch, STOP. <br=
Either the splines are not perfectly aligned, or you are fouling the <br>
pump plunger. Evenly back off the two nuts, remove the OD unit and start <b=
r>
again. Failure to do this will bend or break the adapter plate, or if <br>
you are hanging up on the oil pump, you will bend the plunger shaft.<br>
<br>
For years I followed the instructions out there on installing the OD <br>
unit to the gearbox, install the springs on the sliding member, then <br>
offer up the OD unit. Some like to do it with the gearbox vertical, some <b=
r>
prefer horizontal. Both methods can be a huge source of frustration, as <br=
the springs hold the OD unit pretty far from the adapter plate. As Mike <br=
Hado point out, once the springs are under pressure, they are locking <br>
the cone clutch in place on the annulus. One would think that is a good <br=
thing, you have aligned the splines using a dummy mainshaft, not moved <br>
anything, in theory it should just slide right home. Well, several folks <b=
r>
here have posted, more often than not, it doesn&#39;t.<br>
<br>
Once Tim Hutchisen turned me on to the process I described on my <br>
original post, aligning everything with no springs installed then <br>
stuffing the springs into place, mating the OD unit to the gearbox <br>
became pretty easy and frustration free. Sure, it&#39;s messy as you can&#3=
9;t <br>
avoid get the sealant on your gloves/hands, but it works every time. One <b=
r>
thing I didn&#39;t mention as I thought it was obvious, but this is done <b=
r>
with the gearbox horizontal, on a gearbox stand or the bench.<br>
<br>
Henry Frye<br>
<br>
On 2023-09-21 17:47, M&amp;M Hado wrote:<br>
<br>
&gt; It&#39;s not just a matter of rotating the rear flange as you might th=
ink.=C2=A0 <br>
&gt; If the inside clutch face is against the annulus taper, both splines <=
br>
&gt; will rotate together when the rear flange is turned.=C2=A0 In order to=
 get a <br>
&gt; relative movement to re-align them, the clutch must be pulled away fro=
m <br>
&gt; the annulus so the two can rotate separately until they are realigned.=
<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Mike Hado<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; From:=C2=A0 John Lye<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Henry says &quot; you need to line up two sets of splines in the OD un=
it &quot;<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; This is very important, as I learned the hard way the first time that =
I <br>
&gt; put<br>
&gt; an OD back together.=C2=A0 I thought that I had the splines line up, b=
ut in <br>
&gt; fact,<br>
&gt; I only had the first set lined up and snapped a plate tightening it <b=
r>
&gt; down.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; On Thu, 21 Sep 2023 07:29:34 -0400, yellow04 wrote:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Joe,<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Assembling the OD unit back onto the gearbox is where the real fun is,=
 <br>
&gt; you need to line up two sets of splines in the OD unit, compress the 8=
 <br>
&gt; springs and make sure you don&#39;t foul the oil pump plunger on the c=
am. <br>
&gt; Many ways to accomplish this, some are tedious, frustrating, and can <=
br>
&gt; completely drive you crazy. The easiest way I have found is to safety =
<br>
&gt; wire the pump plunger, install the pump drive cam and make sure it is =
<br>
&gt; pointing away from the pump, apply the sealant to the gasket and place=
 <br>
&gt; in on the OD unit, align the splines in the OD unit, (a spare OD <br>
&gt; mainshaft is really helpful with this) and offer up the OD unit to the=
 <br>
&gt; box. Slowly slide the unit on assuring everything is lined up until th=
e <br>
&gt; gasket is almost touching the adapter plate. Then, install the nuts an=
d <br>
&gt; washers on the long studs only a couple of turns. Then you slide the O=
D <br>
&gt; unit backwards WITHOUT TURNING the rear flange until it hits the nuts.=
 <br>
&gt; Then you install the 8 springs in their correct position, (shorts go <=
br>
&gt; inboard, longs go outboard) by stuffing them onto their posts on the <=
br>
&gt; sliding member then levering the other end onto the nubs on the adapte=
r <br>
&gt; plate. Take a really good look to make sure you have all 8 springs <br=
&gt; correctly installed, then tighten the nuts equally to draw the OD unit=
 <br>
&gt; home. Then install the 4 nuts and washers on the short studs, remove <=
br>
&gt; the safety wire on the oil pump plunger, refill with oil and you are <=
br>
&gt; good to go.<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]<=
/a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br>
<br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" targe=
t=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a> <a href=3D"http://www.team.n=
et/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://www.team.net/pipermail/fot<br>
t/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div><span class=3D"gmail_si=
gnature_prefix">-- </span><br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature"><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D=
"ltr"><div><div><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:arial,helvetica=
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</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>

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---

From: dustin nicholson via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2023 13:05:20 -0400

--===============0329646034362533046==
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Speaking of Bill Boemler, I have his 1955 T=
R3 racecar. He ran it in the runoffs a couple times in the 60=E2=80=99s, Car=
 last ran in 1973 and has been untouched since, someday I=E2=80=99ll get it b=
ack on track. I=E2=80=99m not surprised to learn about his overdrive mods, t=
his car has a lot slick customizations that I=E2=80=99ve never seen before.<=
div><br></div><div>Photos attached of it at Daytona 1969 and now.</div><div>=
<img alt=3D"image1.jpeg" src=3D"cid:77BFFDD7-5A96-4CD7-A587-746690905FC9"><b=
r><img alt=3D"image0.jpeg" src=3D"cid:A4CED9F8-A037-4325-AB3D-3EE4DEB5A00E">=
</div><div><span style=3D"-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);"><b=
r></span><div dir=3D"ltr">Dusty Nicholson&nbsp;<div>281-871-9623</div></div>=
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Sep 21, 2023, at 11:52 PM,=
 R. John Lye via Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote><=
/div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
	<title></title>

<div class=3D"userStyles" style=3D" font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; col=
or: #000000;">Wow, Bill Boemmler is a name that I recognize from my time in S=
t. Louis.&nbsp; He was indeed<br>
a skilled machinist and did some really cool tricks just like Jack described=
.<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
John
<footer class=3D"signatureContainer" style=3D"display:inline;">&nbsp;</foote=
r>

<footer class=3D"replyforwardcontainer"><br>
<br>
<span>On Thu, 21 Sep 2023 19:35:35 +0000 (UTC), Jack Wheeler via Fot &lt;fot=
@autox.team.net&gt; wrote:</span><br>
&nbsp;
<div class=3D"ydp42159c9byahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:Helvetica Ne=
ue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;">
<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">I've read a number of responses to th=
is and all are good ideas.&nbsp; When I was racing with an A-Type overdrive,=
 I met a guy from St. Louis named Bill Boemmler, a TR-3 racer from the 50's &=
amp; 60's.&nbsp; Bill was also a skilled machinist and had a small machine s=
hop behind his house.&nbsp; Everything I know about the A-Type overdrive, I l=
earned from Bill.</div>

<div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">The bottom of the adapter plate is fa=
stened by 2 studs, one in each corner.&nbsp; It generally leaks between thes=
e 2 studs.&nbsp; Bill would drill and tap for two additional small bolts (ab=
out 1/2" long), spaced evenly between the 2 studs.&nbsp; Two holes were dril=
led in the adapter plate, aligned with two holes which were drilled and tapp=
ed into the overdrive housing for a 1/4" - 20 hex bolt.&nbsp; This, of cours=
e, has to be done when the overdrive is apart, and the holes are drilled and=
 tapped into the rear of the O/D housing.&nbsp; When assembling, it is a tig=
ht fit to get these two bolts in between the gearbox housing and the adapter=
 plate, so the bolts need to be short. just long enough to get a firm thread=
ing into the O/D housing.&nbsp; They should be secured with either lock tigh=
t or safety wire.</div>

<div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">This process is a little hard to expl=
ain, so if you want a better description either call me or contact me offlin=
e.&nbsp; I had Bill perform this modification on all of my race and street c=
ar overdrives, and after this modification, I never had a leak in this area.=
</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>

<div class=3D"ydpbcfd6533yahoo_quoted" id=3D"ydpbcfd6533yahoo_quoted_5731179=
853">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;fon=
t-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
<div>On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 12:17:01 AM EDT, Joe Boruch via Fot &=
lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>
<div id=3D"ydpbcfd6533yiv9509853357">
<div>
<div class=3D"ydpbcfd6533yiv9509853357yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family=
:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;">
<div dir=3D"ltr">I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like i=
t's leaking from near the adapter plate.&nbsp; I have never taken one apart.=
&nbsp; Can I just separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or t=
he adapter plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate a=
nd am checking with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble without n=
eeding to take the OD apart further?&nbsp; There is a youtube video that sho=
ws an OD being separated and it looks like it is do able.&nbsp; Thoughts?&nb=
sp; JoeB</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">fot=
@autox.team.net</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://www.fot-racing.com</a><br>
<br>
"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D=
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permail/fot" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermai=
l/fot</a><br>
[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.ne=
t/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
&nbsp;</div>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
[email-masked]<br>
<br>
http://www.fot-racing.com<br>
<br>
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot<br>=

et<br>
<br>
&nbsp;</footer>
</div>

<span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span>fot@au=
tox.team.net</span><br><span></span><br><span>http://www.fot-racing.com</spa=
n><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</span><=
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From: "John H. Hasty via Fot" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2023 00:58:19 +0000

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---

From: Bert Brown via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2023 02:49:40 +0000 (UTC)

------=_Part_5256559_590435597.1695610181385
	boundary="----=_Part_5256558_966230067.1695610180695"

------=_Part_5256558_966230067.1695610180695
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

 Off topic, but that's FOT member Jerry Barker in the black Spitfire #2 beh=
ind your TR3 in the Daytona photo!
Bert Brown    On Sunday, September 24, 2023 at 03:36:11 PM PDT, dustin nich=
olson via Fot <[email-masked]> wrote: =20
=20
 Speaking of Bill Boemler, I have his 1955 TR3 racecar. He ran it in the ru=
noffs a couple times in the 60=E2=80=99s, Car last ran in 1973 and has been=
 untouched since, someday I=E2=80=99ll get it back on track. I=E2=80=99m no=
t surprised to learn about his overdrive mods, this car has a lot slick cus=
tomizations that I=E2=80=99ve never seen before.
Photos attached of it at Daytona 1969 and now.

Dusty Nicholson=C2=A0281-871-9623

On Sep 21, 2023, at 11:52 PM, R. John Lye via Fot <[email-masked]> wrot=
e:

=EF=BB=BF=20

Thanks,
John =C2=A0=20

On Thu, 21 Sep 2023 19:35:35 +0000 (UTC), Jack Wheeler via Fot <[email-masked]=
eam.net> wrote:
=C2=A0=C2=A0I've read a number of responses to this and all are good ideas.=
=C2=A0 When I was racing with an A-Type overdrive, I met a guy from St. Lou=
is named Bill Boemmler, a TR-3 racer from the 50's & 60's.=C2=A0 Bill was a=
lso a skilled machinist and had a small machine shop behind his house.=C2=
=A0 Everything I know about the A-Type overdrive, I learned from Bill.=C2=
=A0The bottom of the adapter plate is fastened by 2 studs, one in each corn=
er.=C2=A0 It generally leaks between these 2 studs.=C2=A0 Bill would drill =
and tap for two additional small bolts (about 1/2" long), spaced evenly bet=
ween the 2 studs.=C2=A0 Two holes were drilled in the adapter plate, aligne=
d with two holes which were drilled and tapped into the overdrive housing f=
or a 1/4" - 20 hex bolt.=C2=A0 This, of course, has to be done when the ove=
rdrive is apart, and the holes are drilled and tapped into the rear of the =
O/D housing.=C2=A0 When assembling, it is a tight fit to get these two bolt=
s in between the gearbox housing and the adapter plate, so the bolts need t=
o be short. just long enough to get a firm threading into the O/D housing.=
=C2=A0 They should be secured with either lock tight or safety wire.=C2=A0T=
his process is a little hard to explain, so if you want a better descriptio=
n either call me or contact me offline.=C2=A0 I had Bill perform this modif=
ication on all of my race and street car overdrives, and after this modific=
ation, I never had a leak in this area.=C2=A0Cheers,=C2=A0Jack=C2=A0On Thur=
sday, September 21, 2023 at 12:17:01 AM EDT, Joe Boruch via Fot <fot@autox.=
team.net> wrote:=C2=A0=C2=A0I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that =
looks like it's leaking from near the adapter plate.=C2=A0 I have never tak=
en one apart.=C2=A0 Can I just separate the OD from the trans and replace t=
he gaskets or the adapter plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an=
 uprated plate and am checking with John to see if he has one) and then rea=
ssemble without needing to take the OD apart further?=C2=A0 There is a yout=
ube video that shows an OD being separated and it looks like it is do able.=
=C2=A0 Thoughts?=C2=A0 JoeB_______________________________________________
[email-masked]

=C2=A0_______________________________________________
[email-masked]

=C2=A0 _______________________________________________
[email-masked]

[email-masked]

ell.net

 =20
------=_Part_5256558_966230067.1695610180695
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp9e33992yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D=
"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;">=
<div></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Off topic, but that's FOT me=
mber Jerry Barker in the black Spitfire #2 behind your TR3 in the Daytona p=
hoto!</div><div><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Bert Brown=
</div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"yahoo_quoted_5858868575" class=3D"yahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Sunday, September 24, 2023 at 03:36:11 PM PDT, dusti=
n nicholson via Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div id=3D"yiv7826200568"><div>Speaking of Bill Boemle=
r, I have his 1955 TR3 racecar. He ran it in the runoffs a couple times in =
the 60=E2=80=99s, Car last ran in 1973 and has been untouched since, someda=
y I=E2=80=99ll get it back on track. I=E2=80=99m not surprised to learn abo=
ut his overdrive mods, this car has a lot slick customizations that I=E2=80=
=99ve never seen before.<div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>Photos attached =
of it at Daytona 1969 and now.</div><div><img alt=3D"image1.jpeg" src=3D"ci=
d:k3gpqAsOX0FmE0DVypsP" yahoo_partid=3D"1.1.2"><br clear=3D"none"><img alt=
=3D"image0.jpeg" src=3D"cid:RNexMAvfZhRMsJCsfQPq" yahoo_partid=3D"1.1.3"></=
div><div><span style=3D""><br clear=3D"none"></span><div dir=3D"ltr">Dusty =
Nicholson&nbsp;<div>281-871-9623</div></div><div id=3D"yiv7826200568yqt5748=
4" class=3D"yiv7826200568yqt3135485563"><div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"=
><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Sep 21, 2023, at 11:52 PM, R. John Lye via Fo=
t &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none"></=
blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
=09</div></blockquote></div></div></div><div id=3D"yiv7826200568yqt91500" c=
lass=3D"yiv7826200568yqt3135485563"><title></title><div><div style=3D"font-=
family:Arial;font-size:12pt;color:#000000;" class=3D"yiv7826200568userStyle=
s">Wow, Bill Boemmler is a name that I recognize from my time in St. Louis.=
&nbsp; He was indeed<br clear=3D"none">
a skilled machinist and did some really cool tricks just like Jack describe=
d.<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
Thanks,<br clear=3D"none">
John
 &nbsp;=20

<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<span>On Thu, 21 Sep 2023 19:35:35 +0000 (UTC), Jack Wheeler via Fot &lt;fo=
[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</span><br clear=3D"none">
&nbsp;
<div style=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font=
-size:13px;" class=3D"yiv7826200568ydp42159c9byahoo-style-wrap">
<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">I've read a number of responses to this and all are good i=
deas.&nbsp; When I was racing with an A-Type overdrive, I met a guy from St=
. Louis named Bill Boemmler, a TR-3 racer from the 50's &amp; 60's.&nbsp; B=
ill was also a skilled machinist and had a small machine shop behind his ho=
use.&nbsp; Everything I know about the A-Type overdrive, I learned from Bil=
l.</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">The bottom of the adapter plate is fastened by 2 studs, on=
e in each corner.&nbsp; It generally leaks between these 2 studs.&nbsp; Bil=
l would drill and tap for two additional small bolts (about 1/2" long), spa=
ced evenly between the 2 studs.&nbsp; Two holes were drilled in the adapter=
 plate, aligned with two holes which were drilled and tapped into the overd=
rive housing for a 1/4" - 20 hex bolt.&nbsp; This, of course, has to be don=
e when the overdrive is apart, and the holes are drilled and tapped into th=
e rear of the O/D housing.&nbsp; When assembling, it is a tight fit to get =
these two bolts in between the gearbox housing and the adapter plate, so th=
e bolts need to be short. just long enough to get a firm threading into the=
 O/D housing.&nbsp; They should be secured with either lock tight or safety=
 wire.</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">This process is a little hard to explain, so if you want a=
 better description either call me or contact me offline.&nbsp; I had Bill =
perform this modification on all of my race and street car overdrives, and =
after this modification, I never had a leak in this area.</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>

<div id=3D"yiv7826200568ydpbcfd6533yahoo_quoted_5731179853" class=3D"yiv782=
6200568ydpbcfd6533yahoo_quoted">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
<div>On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 12:17:01 AM EDT, Joe Boruch via Fot=
 &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>
<div id=3D"yiv7826200568ydpbcfd6533yiv9509853357">
<div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font=
-size:13px;" class=3D"yiv7826200568ydpbcfd6533yiv9509853357yahoo-style-wrap=
">
<div dir=3D"ltr">I have a leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like =
it's leaking from near the adapter plate.&nbsp; I have never taken one apar=
t.&nbsp; Can I just separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets =
or the adapter plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated pl=
ate and am checking with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble wit=
hout needing to take the OD apart further?&nbsp; There is a youtube video t=
hat shows an OD being separated and it looks like it is do able.&nbsp; Thou=
ghts?&nbsp; JoeB</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br clear=3D"none">
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lank" href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.h=
tml</a><br clear=3D"none">
Archive: <a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" target=3D"_=
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oo.com</a><br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
&nbsp;</div>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br clear=3D"none">
[email-masked]<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
http://www.fot-racing.com<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot<br=
 clear=3D"none">
net<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
&nbsp;=20
</div>

<span>_______________________________________________</span><br clear=3D"no=
ne"><span>[email-masked]</span><br clear=3D"none"><span></span><br clea=
r=3D"none"><span>http://www.fot-racing.com</span><br clear=3D"none"><span><=
/span><br clear=3D"none"><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</spa=
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---

From: M&M Hado via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2023 17:13:20 -0500

--===============4061624977950664735==
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Henry,

=20

Sorry for the late reply but please see my post of last Thursday =
regarding overdrive springs.  I=E2=80=99ve seen the issue you describe =
when the problem doesn=E2=80=99t go away after checking the hydraulics =
or electrical.  If a =E2=80=9Clong=E2=80=9D spring is where one of the =
short ones should be, it will coil bind and prevent the clutch from =
moving far enough to contact the brake ring fully.  It only takes one =
spring in the wrong place to hold back the clutch sufficiently to =
prevent full contact with the brake ring.  It may hold intermittently =
but will slip under load, or acceleration.  Be sure to check your =
springs for compressed length since they may be the same length =
otherwise and it=E2=80=99s hard to tell a =E2=80=9Cshort=E2=80=9D one =
from a =E2=80=9Clong=E2=80=9D one.

=20

Mike Hado

. =20

=20

From: Fot [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Henry A. =
Morrison via Fot
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2023 2:17 PM
To: Nick Black; Glenn Franco
Cc: Joe Boruch; FOT Triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] A-type OD leaks

=20

My current overdrive rebuild went so well with me replacing a variety of =
linings and washers that were shot or just not installed by the previous =
rebuilder.  I thought all the pressure producing bits looked good so =
mostly left them alone.  I did the pressure test when I got it all back =
together and it was close to where it was supposed to be.  I drove the =
car once and it seemed to work, drove it again and it dropped into =
overdrive whenever I lifted off the gas and dropped out again when power =
was re applied.  This is pretty much what the thing was doing when I =
started the project and I'm sure was the reason for my slower than they =
should have been lap times at the Cup! =20

=20

Any suggestions on what to do next?=20

=20

Cheers, Henry Morrison

=20

  _____ =20

From: Fot <[email-masked]> on behalf of Glenn Franco via Fot =
<[email-masked]>
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2023 2:57 PM
To: Nick Black <[email-masked]>
Cc: Joe Boruch <[email-masked]>; FOT Triumph <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Fot] A-type OD leaks=20

=20

I have to chime in on issues with the A type overdrive. Thankfully I =
have NO more A types to overhaul since they are a P.I.T.A. to do.=20

The hardest part, as stated, is lining up the 2 splines that will allow =
the mainshaft to nest into the Planetary Gearset and Overrunning Clutch. =
You basically need at least yourself and a helper to put it together. I =
probably did 10-12 of these 2 or more years ago. First time we did one =
we split the adapter plate pulling the O/D on to the transmission. =
Unfortunately it was welded back together and the repair was a weak =
spot. If you force the O/D onto the trans when pulling it back together =
with the 2 nuts on the O/D studs it will break or bend the plate.

=20

The fasteners (6) that hold the plate to the back of the transmission =
are drilled for safety wire. I used stainless safety wire on those after =
torquing. Make sure you repeat the way the wire is routed through the =
bolt heads. I had a couple transmissions leak because I didn't follow =
the routing  properly. I mistakenly routed some of the wire near the =
base of the plate fouling the gasket which resulted in an embarrassing 3 =
comebacks on one transmission due to leaks.

=20

=20

=20

On Thu, Sep 21, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Nick Black via Fot =
<[email-masked]> wrote:

Joe =20

I agree, it=E2=80=99s the bolts that hold the od plate to the =
transmission. I recall that the torque on these bolts is about 25 lbs. =
the bolts are totally soft and will stretch forever with one or two =
additional pounds=E2=80=A6 throw them away and use Allen head bolts =
drilled for safety wire. The stock bolts stretch and the plate gets =
loose and leaks.

=20

On Sep 20, 2023, at 8:52 PM, Joe Boruch via Fot <[email-masked]> =
wrote:

=EF=BB=BF=20

shows an OD being separated and it looks like it is do able.=20

=20

Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]

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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Henry,<o:p></o:p><=
/span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Sorry for the =
late reply but please see my post of last Thursday regarding overdrive =
springs.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99ve seen the issue you describe when the problem =
doesn=E2=80=99t go away after checking the hydraulics or =
electrical.=C2=A0 If a =E2=80=9Clong=E2=80=9D spring is where one of the =
short ones should be, it will coil bind and prevent the clutch from =
moving far enough to contact the brake ring fully.=C2=A0 It only takes =
one spring in the wrong place to hold back the clutch sufficiently to =
prevent full contact with the brake ring.=C2=A0 It may hold =
intermittently but will slip under load, or acceleration.=C2=A0 Be sure =
to check your springs for compressed length since they may be the same =
length otherwise and it=E2=80=99s hard to tell a =E2=80=9Cshort=E2=80=9D =
one from a =E2=80=9Clong=E2=80=9D one.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Mike =
Hado<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>.=C2=A0 =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><a =
name=3D"_MailEndCompose"><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/span></a></p><div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF =
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Fot [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Henry A. =
Morrison via Fot<br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, September 22, 2023 2:17 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> Nick Black; Glenn Franco<br><b>Cc:</b> Joe Boruch; FOT =
Triumph<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Fot] A-type OD =
leaks<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>My current =
overdrive rebuild went so well with me replacing a variety of linings =
and washers that were shot or just not installed by the previous =
rebuilder.&nbsp; I thought all the pressure producing bits looked good =
so mostly left them alone.&nbsp; I did the pressure test when I got it =
all back together and it was close to where it was supposed to be.&nbsp; =
I drove the car once and it seemed to work, drove it again and it =
dropped into overdrive whenever I lifted off the gas and dropped out =
again when power was re applied.&nbsp; This is pretty much what the =
thing was doing when I started the project and I'm sure was the reason =
for my slower than they should have been lap times at the =
Cup!&nbsp;&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>Any suggestions =
on what to do next?&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>Cheers, Henry =
Morrison<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p=
></span></p></div><div class=3DMsoNormal align=3Dcenter =
style=3D'text-align:center'><hr size=3D3 width=3D"98%" =
align=3Dcenter></div><div id=3DdivRplyFwdMsg><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'=
>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'=
> Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Glenn Franco via =
Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, September 21, =
2023 2:57 PM<br><b>To:</b> Nick Black =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Cc:</b> Joe Boruch =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;; FOT Triumph =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Fot] A-type OD =
leaks</span> <o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>I have to chime in on issues with the A type =
overdrive. Thankfully I have NO more A types to overhaul since they are =
a P.I.T.A. to do. <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>The =
hardest part, as stated, is lining up the 2 splines that will allow the =
mainshaft to nest into the Planetary Gearset and Overrunning Clutch. You =
basically need at least yourself and a helper to put it together. I =
probably did 10-12 of these 2 or more years ago. First time we did one =
we split the adapter plate pulling the O/D on to the transmission. =
Unfortunately it was welded back together and the repair was a weak =
spot. If you force the O/D onto the trans when pulling it back together =
with the 2 nuts on the O/D studs it will break or bend the =
plate.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>The fasteners (6) that hold the plate to the back of =
the transmission are drilled for safety wire. I used stainless safety =
wire on those after torquing. Make sure you repeat the way the wire is =
routed through the bolt heads. I had a couple transmissions leak because =
I didn't follow the routing&nbsp; properly. I mistakenly routed some of =
the wire near the base of the plate fouling the gasket which resulted in =
an embarrassing 3 comebacks on one transmission due to =
leaks.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Took awhile to =
figure it out, dumb mistake.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Glenn 74 TR6 Restored, 68 TR250 Frame Off in Progress, =
73 BMW 2002 <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Thu, Sep 21, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Nick Black via Fot &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Joe&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I =
agree, it=E2=80=99s the bolts that hold the od plate to the =
transmission. I recall that the torque on these bolts is about 25 lbs. =
the bolts are totally soft and will stretch forever with one or two =
additional pounds=E2=80=A6 throw them away and use Allen head bolts =
drilled for safety wire. The stock bolts stretch and the plate gets =
loose and leaks.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Sent =
from the wilds of NorCal&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>On Sep 20, 2023, at 8:52 PM, Joe Boruch =
via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>=EF=BB=BF</span> =
<o:p></o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif"'>I have a =
leaky a-type OD in my street TR4 that looks like it's leaking from near =
the adapter plate.&nbsp; I have never taken one apart.&nbsp; Can I just =
separate the OD from the trans and replace the gaskets or the adapter =
plate (I've heard that Quantum Mechanics sells an uprated plate and am =
checking with John to see if he has one) and then reassemble without =
needing to take the OD apart further?&nbsp; There is a youtube video =
that shows an OD being separated and it looks like it is do =
able.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></blockquote></=
div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>__________________________________________=
_____<br><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br><br><a =
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