Subject: Re: [Fot] TR 3 Radiators

From: Steven Belfer via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2023 17:00:41 -0700

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I run a wizard radiator in my TR3 in the hot California sun. No problemo

~Steve

> On Mar 13, 2023, at 3:26 PM, Bryan Brazelton via Fot <[email-masked]> w=
rote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> Hello Group, I am looking for recommendations on what Aluminum Radiator is=
 the best for competition on the TR3 . I like the ones with fan brackets mad=
e onto the body of the radiator like the Wizard Radiator but it is on a 2 ro=
w instead of the others that are 3 rows.  Does anyone have experience with t=
his?
>=20
> --=20
> Bryan B.
>=20
> 901-277-7415
> John Friderici's Purple People Eater  (59 TR 3 Racer)
> Jack Wheelers #11 TR 4A
> Slagles TR 8 Coupe
> _______________________________________________
> [email-masked]
>=20
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve@artwit=
hcars.com
>=20
>=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">I run a wizard radiator in my TR3 in the ho=
t California sun. No problemo<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">~Steve<div><br></div><=
/div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Mar 13, 2023, at 3:26=
 PM, Bryan Brazelton via Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></bloc=
kquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D=
"ltr">Hello Group, I am looking for recommendations&nbsp;on what Aluminum Ra=
diator is the best for competition on the TR3 . I like the ones with fan bra=
ckets&nbsp;made onto the body of the radiator like the Wizard Radiator but i=
t is on a 2 row instead of the others that are 3 rows.&nbsp; Does anyone hav=
e experience&nbsp;with this?<br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div><span class=3D"=
gmail_signature_prefix">-- </span><br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signat=
ure" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr">Bryan B.<div><font f=
ace=3D"Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br></font><div>901-277-7415</div><div>=
John Friderici's Purple People Eater&nbsp; (59 TR 3 Racer)</div><div>Jack Wh=
eelers #11 TR 4A</div><div>Slagles TR 8 Coupe</div></div></div></div></div>
<span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span>fot@au=
tox.team.net</span><br><span></span><br><span>http://www.fot-racing.com</spa=
n><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</span><=
br><span>Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermai=
l/fot</span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/opti=
ons/fot/[email-masked]</span><br><span></span><br><span></span><br></=
div></blockquote></body></html>=

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_______________________________________________
[email-masked]

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot

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From: yellow04 via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2023 07:20:44 -0400

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I dropped a Wizard radiator into Old Blue and it solved the cooling
issues Dentinger experienced for years in the old TR3. Actually, I have
Wizard products installed in a couple street cars as well, they work. If
they keep a Stag cool, they must have figured something out.  

One caveat worth mentioning, both Steve's car and mine run the early
small mouth valance, which does not require much in additional ducting.
On the wide mouth cars, a good ducting solution is critical. If I were
racing a TR3A with that big grill, I would be so tempted to run an
oversized radiator and the obligatory thermostat, that has been my
solution with the TR4 and the TR250. I have seen it done in a TR3, I
will admit you need to get a bit more creative with the limited space
available. 

I never saw the need for a fan in a race car, if you know when to run
the thing, and more importantly when to shut it down, why bother? 

Henry  

On 2023-03-13 20:00, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote:

>> On Mar 13, 2023, at 3:26 PM, Bryan Brazelton via Fot <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
>> Hello Group, I am looking for recommendations on what Aluminum Radiator is the best for competition on the TR3 . I like the ones with fan brackets made onto the body of the radiator like the Wizard Radiator but it is on a 2 row instead of the others that are 3 rows.  Does anyone have experience with this?
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=
=3DUTF-8" /></head><body style=3D'font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana,Gen=
eva,sans-serif'>
<p>I dropped a Wizard radiator into Old Blue and it solved the cooling issu=
es Dentinger experienced for years in the old TR3. Actually, I have Wizard =
products installed in a couple street cars as well, they work. If they keep=
 a Stag cool, they must have figured something out.&nbsp;</p>
<p>One caveat worth mentioning, both Steve's car and mine run the early sma=
ll mouth valance, which does not require much in additional ducting. On the=
 wide mouth&nbsp;cars, a good ducting solution is critical. If I were racin=
g a TR3A with that big grill, I would be so tempted to run&nbsp;an oversize=
d radiator and the obligatory thermostat, that has been my solution with th=
e TR4 and the TR250. I have seen it done in a TR3, I will admit you need to=
 get a bit more creative&nbsp;with the limited space available.</p>
<p>I never saw the need for a fan in a race car, if you know when to run th=
e thing, and more importantly when to shut it down, why bother?</p>
<p>Henry&nbsp;</p>
<p id=3D"reply-intro">On 2023-03-13 20:00, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote:</p>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"padding: 0 0.4em; border-left: #1010ff 2=
px solid; margin: 0">
<div id=3D"replybody1">
<div dir=3D"auto">I run a wizard radiator in my TR3 in the hot California s=
un. No problemo<br /><br />
<div dir=3D"ltr">~Steve
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br />
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"padding: 0 0.4em; border-left: #1010ff 2=
px solid; margin: 0">On Mar 13, 2023, at 3:26 PM, Bryan Brazelton via Fot &=
lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br /><br /></blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"padding: 0 0.4em; border-left: #1010ff 2=
px solid; margin: 0">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hello Group, I am looking for recommendations&nbsp;on what=
 Aluminum Radiator is the best for competition on the TR3 . I like the ones=
 with fan brackets&nbsp;made onto the body of the radiator like the Wizard =
Radiator but it is on a 2 row instead of the others that are 3 rows.&nbsp; =
Does anyone have experience&nbsp;with this?</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</body></html>

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From: Robert Lang via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2023 12:07:54 +0000 (UTC)

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 Henry, I know you and I have chatted about this in the past. I get the "it=
's just one more thing to break" philosophy. But IMHO, cracking a cylinder =
head that's run hot with umpteen hours of messaging, not to mention $$$ hea=
ved at it, is not worth saving a few bux$ and labor hours by skipping the r=
ad.
Now, to the core of the issue - pun intended - is that aluminum core of the=
 Wizard has better heat transfer (apparently) due to a more efficient matri=
x. I have run a Wizard in the TR6 for something like 15 years. I use an ele=
ctric fan because I seem to wind up spending a lot of time idling in grid. =
Absent silly issues like static timing being way off, which resulted in tem=
p spiking, the only problem I've ever had was a radiator cracking due to st=
resses. Note that pylons in autocross are not kind to aluminum radiators. B=
ut I consider on radiator and one oil cooler cracking after more than 200 a=
utocrosses to be "fairly good reliability".
I run a Wizard TR6 drop-in and a puller electric fan with the thermostatic =
controlled relay setup. Totally worth the money.
Regards,Bob Lang

    On Tuesday, March 14, 2023 at 07:30:32 AM EDT, yellow04 via Fot <fot@au=
tox.team.net> wrote: =20
=20
=20
I dropped a Wizard radiator into Old Blue and it solved the cooling issues =
Dentinger experienced for years in the old TR3. Actually, I have Wizard pro=
ducts installed in a couple street cars as well, they work. If they keep a =
Stag cool, they must have figured something out.=C2=A0

One caveat worth mentioning, both Steve's car and mine run the early small =
mouth valance, which does not require much in additional ducting. On the wi=
de mouth=C2=A0cars, a good ducting solution is critical. If I were racing a=
 TR3A with that big grill, I would be so tempted to run=C2=A0an oversized r=
adiator and the obligatory thermostat, that has been my solution with the T=
R4 and the TR250. I have seen it done in a TR3, I will admit you need to ge=
t a bit more creative=C2=A0with the limited space available.

I never saw the need for a fan in a race car, if you know when to run the t=
hing, and more importantly when to shut it down, why bother?

Henry=C2=A0

~Steve=C2=A0

Hello Group, I am looking for recommendations=C2=A0on what Aluminum Radiato=
r is the best for competition on the TR3 . I like the ones with fan bracket=
s=C2=A0made onto the body of the radiator like the Wizard Radiator but it i=
s on a 2 row instead of the others that are 3 rows.=C2=A0 Does anyone have =
experience=C2=A0with this?

@yahoo.com

 =20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydpe73a6538yahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px=
;"><div></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Henry, I know you and I have=
 chatted about this in the past. I get the "it's just one more thing to bre=
ak" philosophy. But IMHO, cracking a cylinder head that's run hot with umpt=
een hours of messaging, not to mention $$$ heaved at it, is not worth savin=
g a few bux$ and labor hours by skipping the rad.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" dat=
a-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Now, to=
 the core of the issue - pun intended - is that aluminum core of the Wizard=
 has better heat transfer (apparently) due to a more efficient matrix. I ha=
ve run a Wizard in the TR6 for something like 15 years. I use an electric f=
an because I seem to wind up spending a lot of time idling in grid. Absent =
silly issues like static timing being way off, which resulted in temp spiki=
ng, the only problem I've ever had was a radiator cracking due to stresses.=
 Note that pylons in autocross are not kind to aluminum radiators. But I co=
nsider on radiator and one oil cooler cracking after more than 200 autocros=
ses to be "fairly good reliability".</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"f=
alse"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">I run a Wizard TR6 d=
rop-in and a puller electric fan with the thermostatic controlled relay set=
up. Totally worth the money.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><b=
r></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Regards,</div><div dir=3D"lt=
r" data-setdir=3D"false">Bob Lang<br></div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydp7824dbf8yahoo_quoted_9127891909" class=3D"ydp78=
24dbf8yahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Tuesday, March 14, 2023 at 07:30:32 AM EDT, yellow04=
 via Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div id=3D"ydp7824dbf8yiv4624346217"><div>
<p>I dropped a Wizard radiator into Old Blue and it solved the cooling issu=
es Dentinger experienced for years in the old TR3. Actually, I have Wizard =
products installed in a couple street cars as well, they work. If they keep=
 a Stag cool, they must have figured something out.&nbsp;</p>
<p>One caveat worth mentioning, both Steve's car and mine run the early sma=
ll mouth valance, which does not require much in additional ducting. On the=
 wide mouth&nbsp;cars, a good ducting solution is critical. If I were racin=
g a TR3A with that big grill, I would be so tempted to run&nbsp;an oversize=
d radiator and the obligatory thermostat, that has been my solution with th=
e TR4 and the TR250. I have seen it done in a TR3, I will admit you need to=
 get a bit more creative&nbsp;with the limited space available.</p>
<p>I never saw the need for a fan in a race car, if you know when to run th=
e thing, and more importantly when to shut it down, why bother?</p>
<p>Henry&nbsp;</p>
<div id=3D"ydp7824dbf8yiv4624346217yqtfd04132" class=3D"ydp7824dbf8yiv46243=
46217yqt7680788791"><p id=3D"ydp7824dbf8yiv4624346217reply-intro">On 2023-0=
3-13 20:00, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote:</p>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"padding:0 0.4em;border-left:#1010ff 2px =
solid;margin:0;">
<div id=3D"ydp7824dbf8yiv4624346217replybody1">
<div>I run a wizard radiator in my TR3 in the hot California sun. No proble=
mo<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">
<div dir=3D"ltr">~Steve
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none">
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"padding:0 0.4em;border-left:#1010ff 2px =
solid;margin:0;">On Mar 13, 2023, at 3:26 PM, Bryan Brazelton via Fot &lt;f=
[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none"></blockqu=
ote>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"padding:0 0.4em;border-left:#1010ff 2px =
solid;margin:0;">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hello Group, I am looking for recommendations&nbsp;on what=
 Aluminum Radiator is the best for competition on the TR3 . I like the ones=
 with fan brackets&nbsp;made onto the body of the radiator like the Wizard =
Radiator but it is on a 2 row instead of the others that are 3 rows.&nbsp; =
Does anyone have experience&nbsp;with this?</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div></div></div><div class=3D"ydp7824dbf8yqt7680788791" id=3D"ydp7824dbf8=
yqtfd17481">_______________________________________________<br clear=3D"non=
e"><a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none"=
><a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com" rel=3D"nofollow" targ=
et=3D"_blank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"=
none">Donate: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" re=
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