Subject: Re: [Fot] Center main support

From: Phil Gott via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 06:42:46 -0500

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Thanks again, Tony:
The one we have, built by the late Bill  Throop, in addition to reinforcing t=
he cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a st=
rap, then the strap  is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from o=
utside.  I=E2=80=99m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your r=
ecommendation, it seems to be.
Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine tod=
ay for other work.
Phil

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.  Here's what he wrote about t=
hat (on my engine building tips page):
>=20
> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.  T=
o do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for th=
e head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the h=
oles in the strap  and you must use longer bolts.  Some  builders feel that t=
his is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a=
 main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that=
 happens more frequently than you would expect."
>=20
> Regards, Tony Drews
>=20
> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote:
>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the T=
R wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted u=
nderneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 fa=
ctory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002=
 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of thes=
e were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None o=
f these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center.
>> Curious as to the need for the extra support.
>> Thanks,
>> Phil Gott
>> 114 TR4A
>>=20
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> _______________________________________________
>> [email-masked]
>>=20
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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ews.com
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Thanks again, Tony:<div>The one we have, bu=
ilt by the late Bill &nbsp;Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself=
, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the=
 strap &nbsp;is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside.=
 &nbsp;I=E2=80=99m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your rec=
ommendation, it seems to be.</div><div>Maybe I can send some pictures later t=
oday, as we are pulling the engine today for other work.</div><div>Phil<br><=
br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquot=
e type=3D"cite">On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews &lt;tony@tonydrews.=
com&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D=
"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
 =20
    <meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-8"=
 =20
 =20
    <p>I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.&nbsp; Here's what he
      wrote about that (on my engine building tips page):</p>
    <p><span style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Tahoma, Helvetica,
        Arial, sans-serif; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
        font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
        font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2;
        text-align: left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none;
        white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;
        -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255,
        255); text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color:
        initial; display: inline !important; float: none;">"I also like
        to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.&nbsp; To=

        do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the
        surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400
        block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap&nbsp; and you must us=
e
        longer bolts. &nbsp;Some&nbsp; builders feel that this is totally
        unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a
        main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is
        something that happens more frequently than you would expect."</span=
></p>
    <div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">Regards, Tony Drews<br>
    </div>
    <div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via
      Fot wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite" cite=3D"mid:9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC=
[email-masked]">
      <pre class=3D"moz-quote-pre" wrap=3D"">Has anyone seen the need to add=
 extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an en=
gine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the cent=
er main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop a=
nd all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when suppo=
rted on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was remove=
d from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the eng=
ine with extra support at the center.
Curious as to the need for the extra support.
Thanks,
Phil Gott
114 TR4A

Sent from my iPhone
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an/options/fot/[email-masked]</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
 =20

</div></blockquote></div></body></html>=

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_______________________________________________
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From: Phil Gott via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 06:42:46 -0500

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Thanks again, Tony:

Sent from my iPhone

ews.com

 =20
 =20

Sent from my iPhone

</pre>
    </blockquote>
 =20

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From: John Styduhar via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 07:15:50 -0500

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I also followed Uncle Jack's advice.  It seemed to calm the engine
vibration at higher revs (6000+) in addition to the cast alloy sump. I'm
running a stock crank nitrided. Use ARP main studs.
.

On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 6:43 AM Phil Gott via Fot <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> Thanks again, Tony:
> The one we have, built by the late Bill  Throop, in addition to
> reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept t=
he
> sides of a strap, then the strap  is cross bolted from the sides, through
> the block from outside.  I=E2=80=99m wondering if this is a bit of overki=
ll. Based
> on your recommendation, it seems to be.
> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine
> today for other work.
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.  Here's what he wrote about
> that (on my engine building tips page):
>
> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.
> To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces fo=
r
> the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge
> the holes in the strap  and you must use longer bolts.  Some  builders fe=
el
> that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have
> never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is
> something that happens more frequently than you would expect."
> Regards, Tony Drews
>
R wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted=
 underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3=
 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (=
.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of=
 these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: =
None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the cente=
r.
> [email-masked]
ews.com
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
>
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">I a=
lso followed Uncle Jack&#39;s advice.=C2=A0 It seemed to calm the engine vi=
bration at higher revs (6000+) in addition to the cast alloy sump. I&#39;m =
running a stock crank nitrided. Use ARP main studs.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div></div><=
br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat,=
 Nov 23, 2019 at 6:43 AM Phil Gott via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.=
team.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blo=
ckquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left=
:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Thanks agai=
n, Tony:<div>The one we have, built by the late Bill =C2=A0Throop, in addit=
ion to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to acc=
ept the sides of a strap, then the strap =C2=A0is cross bolted from the sid=
es, through the block from outside.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m wondering if this is =
a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be.</div><div>=
Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine to=
day for other work.</div><div>Phil<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPh=
one</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Nov 22, 2019, at=
 10:56 PM, Tony Drews &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_=
blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockqu=
ote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
 =20
   =20
 =20
 =20
    <p>I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.=C2=A0 Here&#39;s what =
he
      wrote about that (on my engine building tips page):</p>
    <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Tahoma,Helvetica,Arial,s=
ans-serif;font-size:medium;font-style:normal;font-variant-ligatures:normal;=
font-variant-caps:normal;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:normal;text-align:l=
eft;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px=
;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);text-decoration-style:initial;text-decor=
ation-color:initial;float:none;display:inline">&quot;I also like
        to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.=C2=A0 T=
o
        do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the
        surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400
        block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap=C2=A0 and you must u=
se
        longer bolts.=C2=A0 Some=C2=A0 builders feel that this is totally
        unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a
        main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is
        something that happens more frequently than you would expect.&quot;=
</span></p>
    <div>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div>On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via
      Fot wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
      <pre>Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main=
 on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cro=
ss-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Ju=
st took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about =
.002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains=
.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engin=
e. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at =
the center.
Curious as to the need for the extra support.
Thanks,
Phil Gott
114 TR4A

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]<=
/a>

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ot/[email-masked]</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
 =20

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