From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Feb 1 08:47:30 2017 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2017 15:47:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 2016 Kastner Cup qualifying race video Hello Friends, Attached is the video link to the Sonoma Kastner Cup qualifying race. I have finally figured out what it takes to edit my videos, so stay tuned for the race video. I had a close call right after the green flag waved and kept a very fast TR4 in my sites for 13th position. This is my 6th race weekend as a driver. Please enjoy, Dave Hogye https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vjXmt3TItw -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Wed Feb 1 09:18:20 2017 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2017 11:18:20 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Herold engine with scroll seal A fellow sprite racer had a Triumph question for me and I was wondering if anyone here has done something similar. "I'm working on an early Herald with 1100 engine . Its got an Archimedes scroll rear seal but has a rear alloy housing that looks just like std Spit seal housing . You ever grind scroll off crank and use latter seal ? " thanks mike h 63 Spit -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bschirano at yahoo.com Wed Feb 1 10:46:56 2017 From: bschirano at yahoo.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2017 17:46:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Apt References: <2100276416.395427.1485971216155.ref@mail.yahoo.com> blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px #715FFA solid !important; padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white !important; } Hey guys, i was corresponding with Dave at APT and they must have server problems. Web site is down and two email bounced.? Anyone have their phone number? ThanksBrian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick.parent at att.net Wed Feb 1 17:29:10 2017 From: rick.parent at att.net (Rick Parent) Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2017 00:29:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Herold engine with scroll seal References: Nooooooooooooooo don't grind it, go to the local bearing supply and buy a Speedy Sleeve, problem solved, easy. On Wednesday, February 1, 2017 12:08 PM, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: A fellow sprite racer had a Triumph question for me and I was wondering if anyone here has done something similar. "I'm working on an early Herald with 1100 engine . Its got an Archimedes scroll rear seal but has a rear alloy housing that looks just like std Spit seal housing . You ever grind scroll off? crank and use latter seal ? " thanks mike h 63 Spit _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From walt at hot-tr6.com Thu Feb 2 11:07:25 2017 From: walt at hot-tr6.com (walt at hot-tr6.com) Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2017 11:07:25 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Theft report A storage unit I have kept my racing gear I for years was broken into the morning of January 31, 2017. I keep various racing supplies in it for my 1970 Triumph TR6 road racer. The thieves took 12 Panasport 15X7 racing wheels which had Hoosier R6 racing slicks and a set of new rain tires. They also took a set of 4 Shelby racing wheels size 15X7 also with Hoosiers on them (Shelby did his own Panasport knock-offs which were moderately successful) 2 air tanks 3 fuel bottles (one is still full of 110 octane fuel) Miscellaneous hand tools probably not worth more than $200 One racing seat on tracks color blue and black. I can identify all the racing wheels due to special markings I have on them. I am filling out police reports and watching the local Craigs List etc. but assuming these thieves do not just sell these wheels for scrap They may try to market them outside of my local area. I am requesting that my fellow FOT members please keep an eye out for any of these items that may surface in your region. Thanks Walter E. Hollowell Albuquerque, New Mexico Phone 505 362-4350 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjwakeman at gmail.com Thu Feb 2 12:55:39 2017 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2017 12:55:39 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR3 hardtop drip rails References: <1045943170.135002089.1485753982788.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> On 1/29/17 10:26 PM, davehogye via Fot wrote: > Lorne, > I doubt that you will find the drip rail from Triumph parts suppliers. > Moss says NA. It is a polished, perhaps plated or anodized, aluminum > piece that can probably be replicated from a strip of aluminum with a > short rolled edge. I have a top with the drip rail in tack if you'd > like a photo or two. I thought they were stainless steel. Mine appears to be. I have never seen them listed for sale. TeriAnn -- Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write *The world beckons and life waits for no one* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Thu Feb 2 14:14:28 2017 From: rek46 at aol.com (=?utf-8?B?cmVrNDZAYW9sLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2017 16:14:28 -0500 Subject: [Fot] =?utf-8?q?Theft_report?= Ck ElPaso Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint! ----- Reply message ----- From: "Walt Hollowell via Fot" Date: Thu, Feb 2, 2017 1:07 pm Subject: [Fot] Theft report To: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From smyers at mac.com Thu Feb 2 14:22:32 2017 From: smyers at mac.com (Steve Myers) Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2017 15:22:32 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Stock Triumph TR Wheels I just powder coated a bunch of original TR wheels I had sitting around. I have no use for this many so I was wondering if anyone out there needed some. They are done in a silver that is very close to the wheel silver that Moss sells in paint cans. -Steve -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 657620 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Thu Feb 2 14:40:56 2017 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2017 15:40:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Theft report References: <000c01d27d7f$35b971b0$a12c5510$@hot-tr6.com> I'll quote Tony Drews, "well that sucks" I'll keep my eyes open here in Central Texas. From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Walt Hollowell via Fot Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2017 12:07 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Theft report A storage unit I have kept my racing gear I for years was broken into the morning of January 31, 2017. I keep various racing supplies in it for my 1970 Triumph TR6 road racer. The thieves took 12 Panasport 15X7 racing wheels which had Hoosier R6 racing slicks and a set of new rain tires. They also took a set of 4 Shelby racing wheels size 15X7 also with Hoosiers on them (Shelby did his own Panasport knock-offs which were moderately successful) 2 air tanks 3 fuel bottles (one is still full of 110 octane fuel) Miscellaneous hand tools probably not worth more than $200 One racing seat on tracks color blue and black. I can identify all the racing wheels due to special markings I have on them. I am filling out police reports and watching the local Craigs List etc. but assuming these thieves do not just sell these wheels for scrap They may try to market them outside of my local area. I am requesting that my fellow FOT members please keep an eye out for any of these items that may surface in your region. Thanks Walter E. Hollowell Albuquerque, New Mexico Phone 505 362-4350 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Thu Feb 2 17:17:52 2017 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2017 00:17:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Sonoma Kastner Cup Race video Hello Friends, Here is the race video. I actually finished the race in 14th position. Chuck Arnold did not have a transponder in his TR6. Please enjoy. Dave Hogye https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=Yjy9BkPm98w -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ponobill at gmail.com Thu Feb 2 21:28:11 2017 From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill) Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2017 20:28:11 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Stock Triumph TR Wheels References: Hope you checked for cracks between the lug holes before you bothered. > On Feb 2, 2017, at 1:22 PM, Steve Myers via Fot wrote: > > I just powder coated a bunch of original TR wheels I had sitting around. I have no use for this many so I was wondering if anyone out there needed some. They are done in a silver that is very close to the wheel silver that Moss sells in paint cans. > > -Steve > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Fri Feb 3 07:07:09 2017 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2017 14:07:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR3 hardtop drip rails References: <1045943170.135002089.1485753982788.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <38968bf8-3e60-c3e2-a70a-5cc0f15a3504@gmail.com> I have just finished restoring a hard top which I have had for over 30 years.? It came with a couple of 'parts cars' that I bought in 1985.? The top was on a TR-3B (1962) car which was crashed in the front end (major damage, but the hard top was untouched).? I don't know when the accident occurred, but the parts car appeared to have been sitting for a long time.? What I am trying to say is that this hard top had spent most of it's life stored in a garage, and was very complete and original. The drip rails were aluminum, and I did not notice any plating, anodizing, etc.? They were probably polished before assembly onto the top.? Remember, mine came off a car that was built in 1962 and, as we all know, the British were prone to making a lot of changes as they went.? So what they used in 1962 may not have been what they used in 1955. I too, can send pictures if that would help, but it sounds like you may have what you need.? Let me know. Jack Wheeler From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, February 2, 2017 2:55 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3 hardtop drip rails On 1/29/17 10:26 PM, davehogye via Fot wrote: Lorne, I doubt that you will find the drip rail from Triumph parts suppliers. ?Moss says NA. ?It is a polished, perhaps plated or anodized, aluminum piece that can probably be replicated from a strip of aluminum with a short rolled edge. ?I have a top with the drip rail in tack if you'd like a photo or two. I thought they were stainless steel. Mine appears to be. I have never seen them listed for sale. TeriAnn -- Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write The world beckons and life waits for no one _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Fri Feb 3 09:00:19 2017 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2017 10:00:19 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR3 hardtop drip rails References: <1045943170.135002089.1485753982788.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <38968bf8-3e60-c3e2-a70a-5cc0f15a3504@gmail.com> <1300260527.390881.1486130829200@mail.yahoo.com> Mine are aluminum and they appear anodized. Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Feb 3, 2017, at 8:07 AM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: > > I have just finished restoring a hard top which I have had for over 30 years. It came with a couple of 'parts cars' that I bought in 1985. The top was on a TR-3B (1962) car which was crashed in the front end (major damage, but the hard top was untouched). I don't know when the accident occurred, but the parts car appeared to have been sitting for a long time. What I am trying to say is that this hard top had spent most of it's life stored in a garage, and was very complete and original. > > The drip rails were aluminum, and I did not notice any plating, anodizing, etc. They were probably polished before assembly onto the top. Remember, mine came off a car that was built in 1962 and, as we all know, the British were prone to making a lot of changes as they went. So what they used in 1962 may not have been what they used in 1955. > > I too, can send pictures if that would help, but it sounds like you may have what you need. Let me know. > > Jack Wheeler > > > From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, February 2, 2017 2:55 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3 hardtop drip rails > >> On 1/29/17 10:26 PM, davehogye via Fot wrote: >> Lorne, >> I doubt that you will find the drip rail from Triumph parts suppliers. Moss says NA. It is a polished, perhaps plated or anodized, aluminum piece that can probably be replicated from a strip of aluminum with a short rolled edge. I have a top with the drip rail in tack if you'd like a photo or two. > > I thought they were stainless steel. Mine appears to be. I have never seen them listed for sale. > > TeriAnn > -- > Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada > 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write > > The world beckons and life waits for no one > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joe at the-vintage-racer.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1976013 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Fri Feb 3 09:18:20 2017 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2017 16:18:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] new video link for Sonoma Kastner Cup Race Hello Friends, There may have difficulty viewing the first YouTube link. Please try again. Dave H. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yjy9BkPm98w&t=938s -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fasttrs at yahoo.com Fri Feb 3 09:29:14 2017 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2017 16:29:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Theft report References: <000c01d27d7f$35b971b0$a12c5510$@hot-tr6.com> I'll keep an eye out in Tennessee and Kentucky.Mike Munson#28 TR6Corvette ZO6 From: Walt Hollowell via Fot To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, February 2, 2017 12:07 PM Subject: [Fot] Theft report A storage unit I have kept my racing gear I for years was broken into the morning of January 31, 2017.I keep various racing supplies in it for my 1970 Triumph TR6 road racer.The thieves took 12 Panasport 15X7 racing wheels which had Hoosier R6 racing slicks and a set of new rain tires. They also took a set of 4 Shelby racing wheels size 15X7 also with Hoosiers on them (Shelby did his own Panasport knock-offs which were moderately successful)2 air tanks3 fuel bottles (one is still full of 110 octane fuel)Miscellaneous hand tools probably not worth more than $200One racing seat on tracks color blue and black. I can identify all the racing wheels due to special markings I have on them. ?I am filling out police reports and watching the local Craigs List etc. but assuming these thieves do not just sell these wheels for scrapThey may try to market them outside of my local area. I am requesting that my fellow FOT members please keep an eye out for any of these items that may surface in your region. ?ThanksWalter E. HollowellAlbuquerque, New MexicoPhone 505 362-4350 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Feb 4 10:58:55 2017 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 10:58:55 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top fuel pump question List, Holley recommends that their fuel pump be installed so that the pump is lower than the fuel level. Has anyone had a problem with the pump installed differently? My dilemma is that my fuel cell sits low (in a cut out with brackets) in the boot of my Spitfire and the previous owner had installed the old Holley pump lower than the fuel level but in what I felt like was a dangerous place as it was exposed under the car and the fuel lines were also routed where they could have gotten easily damaged (basically very close to the wheel well). I?m moving the fuel pump and the lines to be inside the boot but it is not possible to make the pump sit entirely below the fuel level since the bottom of the fuel cell sits below the floor of the boot. The chosen location makes the pump sit about 1/3 of the way from the fuel cell bottom. I know Holley wants to take advantage of the siphoning effect (apparently because they push fuel better than they pull fuel) but does that matter as long as the fuel pressure is maintained at the proper level for my carbs? I figure if I run with the fuel cell full (8 gal) the fuel level will be above the pump the majority of the time. I?ve been burning about 3-4 gallons per (20 min.) race. Has anyone had issues with the Holley fuel pumps not being installed exactly like Holley says? I?ve seen some other Spitfire racers with the Holley fuel pump NOT below the fuel level so I?m hoping it works for me to do the same. I?m thinking about one of the two locations shown in the pics. Right in front of the fuel cell is my preferred location at this point as the other location to the side of the fuel cell would be more vulnerable in a crash situation. Thanks Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8174.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 85325 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8175.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 83329 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8176.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 83076 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8201.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 81928 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gt6steve at aol.com Sat Feb 4 13:51:04 2017 From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 15:51:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top fuel pump question References: Yes, I did have feed problems when I initally installed toe Holley Pump. I now mount them inder the boot floor either side . I consider them to be well protected by the frame crossmember and the lines come UP thru the floor and run internally. Never been a problem since the install. The twin setup is pure redundancy and almost certainly not necessary. Steve -----Original Message----- From: Bud R via Fot To: FOT Sent: Sat, Feb 4, 2017 12:19 pm Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top fuel pump question List, Holley recommends that their fuel pump be installed so that the pump is lower than the fuel level. Has anyone had a problem with the pump installed differently? My dilemma is that my fuel cell sits low (in a cut out with brackets) in the boot of my Spitfire and the previous owner had installed the old Holley pump lower than the fuel level but in what I felt like was a dangerous place as it was exposed under the car and the fuel lines were also routed where they could have gotten easily damaged (basically very close to the wheel well). I?m moving the fuel pump and the lines to be inside the boot but it is not possible to make the pump sit entirely below the fuel level since the bottom of the fuel cell sits below the floor of the boot. The chosen location makes the pump sit about 1/3 of the way from the fuel cell bottom. I know Holley wants to take advantage of the siphoning effect (apparently because they push fuel better than they pull fuel) but does that matter as long as the fuel pressure is maintained at the proper level for my carbs? I figure if I run with the fuel cell full (8 gal) the fuel level will be above the pump the majority of the time. I?ve been burning about 3-4 gallons per (20 min.) race. Has anyone had issues with the Holley fuel pumps not being installed exactly like Holley says? I?ve seen some other Spitfire racers with the Holley fuel pump NOT below the fuel level so I?m hoping it works for me to do the same. I?m thinking about one of the two locations shown in the pics. Right in front of the fuel cell is my preferred location at this point as the other location to the side of the fuel cell would be more vulnerable in a crash situation. Thanks Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8174.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 85325 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8175.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 83329 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8176.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 83076 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8201.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 81928 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gt6steve at aol.com Sat Feb 4 13:51:28 2017 From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 15:51:28 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top fuel pump question References: Yes, I did have feed problems when I initally installed toe Holley Pump. I now mount them inder the boot floor either side . I consider them to be well protected by the frame crossmember and the lines come UP thru the floor and run internally. Never been a problem since the install. The twin setup is pure redundancy and almost certainly not necessary. Steve -----Original Message----- From: Bud R via Fot To: FOT Sent: Sat, Feb 4, 2017 12:19 pm Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top fuel pump question List, Holley recommends that their fuel pump be installed so that the pump is lower than the fuel level. Has anyone had a problem with the pump installed differently? My dilemma is that my fuel cell sits low (in a cut out with brackets) in the boot of my Spitfire and the previous owner had installed the old Holley pump lower than the fuel level but in what I felt like was a dangerous place as it was exposed under the car and the fuel lines were also routed where they could have gotten easily damaged (basically very close to the wheel well). I?m moving the fuel pump and the lines to be inside the boot but it is not possible to make the pump sit entirely below the fuel level since the bottom of the fuel cell sits below the floor of the boot. The chosen location makes the pump sit about 1/3 of the way from the fuel cell bottom. I know Holley wants to take advantage of the siphoning effect (apparently because they push fuel better than they pull fuel) but does that matter as long as the fuel pressure is maintained at the proper level for my carbs? I figure if I run with the fuel cell full (8 gal) the fuel level will be above the pump the majority of the time. I?ve been burning about 3-4 gallons per (20 min.) race. Has anyone had issues with the Holley fuel pumps not being installed exactly like Holley says? I?ve seen some other Spitfire racers with the Holley fuel pump NOT below the fuel level so I?m hoping it works for me to do the same. I?m thinking about one of the two locations shown in the pics. Right in front of the fuel cell is my preferred location at this point as the other location to the side of the fuel cell would be more vulnerable in a crash situation. Thanks Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8174.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 85325 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8175.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 83329 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8176.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 83076 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8201.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 81928 bytes Desc: not available URL: From britracer89 at yahoo.com Sat Feb 4 14:43:53 2017 From: britracer89 at yahoo.com (Brian Dennis) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 21:43:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] alloy caliper mount? References: <639322538.1463605.1486244633740.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Who is making alloy brake caliper mounts? I am looking for a set but need them slightly modified for a project I am working on.Thanks,BrianFoster, RI -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britracer89 at yahoo.com Sat Feb 4 14:56:39 2017 From: britracer89 at yahoo.com (Brian Dennis) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 21:56:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Lotus rotors? References: <1710885031.1461044.1486245399874.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Anyone know where I can find Lotus?Elite or Eclat 1974-1980 front rotors? Must be alloy wheel cars only. The steel wheel cars are different. There are a bunch of vendors on the internet that say they have them but really only have the steel wheel rotors.Thanks, BrianFoster, RI -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomstrange1300 at gmail.com Sat Feb 4 15:17:52 2017 From: tomstrange1300 at gmail.com (Tom Strange) Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2017 17:17:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top fuel pump question Not a problem. Mine was mounted in front of the cell on the axle tunnel, after a fram filter beside the cell (sounds like yours may be where my filter was). I never had any trouble with the pump. Tom On Feb 4, 2017 12:58, Bud R via Fot wrote: > > List, > > Holley recommends that their fuel pump be installed so that the pump is lower than the fuel level. Has anyone had a problem with the pump installed ?differently?? > > My dilemma is that my fuel cell sits low (in a cut out with brackets) in the boot of my Spitfire and the previous owner had installed the old Holley pump lower than the fuel level but in what I felt like was a dangerous place as it was exposed under the car and the fuel lines were also routed where they could have gotten easily damaged (basically very close to the wheel well). I?m moving the fuel pump and the lines to be inside the boot but it is not possible to make the pump sit entirely below the fuel level since the bottom of the fuel cell sits below the floor of the boot. The chosen location makes the pump sit about 1/3 of the way from the fuel cell bottom. > > I know Holley wants to take advantage of the siphoning effect (apparently because they push fuel better than they pull fuel) but does that matter as long as the fuel pressure is maintained at the proper level for my carbs? I figure if I run with the fuel cell full (8 gal) the fuel level will be above the pump the majority of the time. I?ve been burning about 3-4 gallons per (20 min.) race. > > Has anyone had issues with the Holley fuel pumps not being installed exactly like Holley says? I?ve seen some other Spitfire racers with the Holley fuel pump NOT below the fuel level so I?m hoping it works for me to do the same. I?m thinking about one of the two locations shown in the pics. Right in front of the fuel cell is my preferred location at this point as the other location to the side of the fuel cell would be more vulnerable in a crash situation. > > Thanks > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle? > 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) From norlinengineering at comcast.net Sat Feb 4 16:03:37 2017 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 15:03:37 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top We've got a Holley red top mounted above the fuel cell in our Spitfire and have had no issues with it at all. We use a -6 fuel line all the way from the cell to the regulator and have a spin on fuel filter in line between the cell and the pump. I've attached a photo of our setup. Jim Norlin -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_9170 sm.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 370874 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Feb 4 18:14:19 2017 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2017 19:14:19 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top fuel pump question References: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 27874a48.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 85325 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 27874a77.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 83329 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 27874a86.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 83076 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 27874a96.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 81928 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Sat Feb 4 19:47:34 2017 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2017 02:47:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top fuel pump question References: Bud, I originally ran a blue Holley pump above the top level of my fuel cell with around two feet of hose to it, without a problem and I now use a Facel cylindrical type in the same spot, still with no problems. The Holley was too loud for anything but full throttle race conditions in my TR3. It buzzed terribly loud. If I mounted the Holley at the end of a ten foot stick outside the car, it might have been perfect. The pump is mounted to the roll cage tube in the trunk and although rubber mounted, perhaps the intense buzzing sound was amplified through the cage tubing. I still have the Holley as a back up. I know many use these Holley pumps without problems, that's why I initially chose it. I just couldn't tolerate it's buzz during occasional street use or touring. Besides the noise it worked fine, above and away from the tank. // Dave H. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bud R via Fot" To: "FOT" Sent: Saturday, February 4, 2017 9:58:55 AM Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top fuel pump question List, Holley recommends that their fuel pump be installed so that the pump is lower than the fuel level. Has anyone had a problem with the pump installed differently? My dilemma is that my fuel cell sits low (in a cut out with brackets) in the boot of my Spitfire and the previous owner had installed the old Holley pump lower than the fuel level but in what I felt like was a dangerous place as it was exposed under the car and the fuel lines were also routed where they could have gotten easily damaged (basically very close to the wheel well). I?m moving the fuel pump and the lines to be inside the boot but it is not possible to make the pump sit entirely below the fuel level since the bottom of the fuel cell sits below the floor of the boot. The chosen location makes the pump sit about 1/3 of the way from the fuel cell bottom. I know Holley wants to take advantage of the siphoning effect (apparently because they push fuel better than they pull fuel) but does that matter as long as the fuel pressure is maintained at the proper level for my carbs? I figure if I run with the fuel cell full (8 gal) the fuel level will be above the pump the majority of the time. I?ve been burning about 3-4 gallons per (20 min.) race. Has anyone had issues with the Holley fuel pumps not being installed exactly like Holley says? I?ve seen some other Spitfire racers with the Holley fuel pump NOT below the fuel level so I?m hoping it works for me to do the same. I?m thinking about one of the two locations shown in the pics. Right in front of the fuel cell is my preferred location at this point as the other location to the side of the fuel cell would be more vulnerable in a crash situation. Thanks Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8174.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 85325 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8175.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 83329 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8176.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 83076 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8201.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 81928 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dforeman at fooddude.com Sat Feb 4 22:12:12 2017 From: dforeman at fooddude.com (DF) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 23:12:12 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Fot] Lotus rotors? References: <1710885031.1461044.1486245399874.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710885031.1461044.1486245399874@mail.yahoo.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britracer89 at yahoo.com Sun Feb 5 03:54:10 2017 From: britracer89 at yahoo.com (Brian Dennis) Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2017 10:54:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] alloy caliper mount? References: <639322538.1463605.1486244633740.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <639322538.1463605.1486244633740@mail.yahoo.com> <001b01d27f6d$67984180$36c8c480$@ca> To bolt onto GT6 vertical link.Brian From: Barry Munson To: 'Brian Dennis' Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 12:04 AM Subject: RE: [FOT] alloy caliper mount? #yiv5971274211 #yiv5971274211 -- _filtered #yiv5971274211 {font-family:Helvetica;panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;} _filtered #yiv5971274211 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv5971274211 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv5971274211 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}#yiv5971274211 #yiv5971274211 p.yiv5971274211MsoNormal, #yiv5971274211 li.yiv5971274211MsoNormal, #yiv5971274211 div.yiv5971274211MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv5971274211 a:link, #yiv5971274211 span.yiv5971274211MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5971274211 a:visited, #yiv5971274211 span.yiv5971274211MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5971274211 span.yiv5971274211EmailStyle17 {color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv5971274211 .yiv5971274211MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv5971274211 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv5971274211 div.yiv5971274211WordSection1 {}#yiv5971274211 Hi Brian ? For what car?Barry. ?From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Dennis via Fot Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2017 2:44 PM To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] alloy caliper mount? ?Who is making alloy brake caliper mounts? I am looking for a set but need them slightly modified for a project I am working on.Thanks,BrianFoster, RI -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Sun Feb 5 07:44:33 2017 From: rek46 at aol.com (=?utf-8?B?cmVrNDZAYW9sLmNvbQ==?=) Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2017 09:44:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] =?utf-8?q?Lotus_rotors=3F?= Did you try Dave Bean Lotus? Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint! ----- Reply message ----- From: "DF via Fot" Date: Sun, Feb 5, 2017 12:12 am Subject: [Fot] Lotus rotors? To: "Brian Dennis via Fot" , "Brian Dennis" -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Sun Feb 5 07:54:34 2017 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2017 09:54:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] alloy caliper mount? References: <639322538.1463605.1486244633740.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <639322538.1463605.1486244633740@mail.yahoo.com> <001b01d27f6d$67984180$36c8c480$@ca> <922132097.1709717.1486292050870@mail.yahoo.com> Pretty sure Canley Classics sells them. Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 5, 2017, at 5:54 AM, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: > > To bolt onto GT6 vertical link. > Brian > > From: Barry Munson > To: 'Brian Dennis' > Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 12:04 AM > Subject: RE: [FOT] alloy caliper mount? > > Hi Brian ? For what car? > Barry. > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Dennis via Fot > Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2017 2:44 PM > To: FOT List > Subject: [Fot] alloy caliper mount? > > Who is making alloy brake caliper mounts? I am looking for a set but need them slightly modified for a project I am working on. > Thanks, > Brian > Foster, RI > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britracer89 at yahoo.com Sun Feb 5 08:32:07 2017 From: britracer89 at yahoo.com (Brian Dennis) Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2017 15:32:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] alloy caliper mount? References: <639322538.1463605.1486244633740.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <639322538.1463605.1486244633740@mail.yahoo.com> <001b01d27f6d$67984180$36c8c480$@ca> <922132097.1709717.1486292050870@mail.yahoo.com> <34ABAB8B-76EA-4A44-844D-C8CAE4090D08@me.com> Yes they do. However, I am looking for a manufacturer that may be able to modify it for me. The alloy brackets I have seen are machined from block stock so figured it wouldn't be difficult for the manufacturer to slightly change the layout.Thanks, Brian From: Scott Janzen To: Brian Dennis Cc: Barry Munson ; FOT List Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 9:54 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] [FOT] alloy caliper mount? Pretty sure Canley Classics sells them. Sent from my iPhone On Feb 5, 2017, at 5:54 AM, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: To bolt onto GT6 vertical link.Brian From: Barry Munson To: 'Brian Dennis' Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 12:04 AM Subject: RE: [FOT] alloy caliper mount? #yiv8924649207 -- filtered {font-family:Helvetica;panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;}#yiv8924649207 filtered {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}#yiv8924649207 filtered {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv8924649207 filtered {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}#yiv8924649207 p.yiv8924649207MsoNormal, #yiv8924649207 li.yiv8924649207MsoNormal, #yiv8924649207 div.yiv8924649207MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv8924649207 a:link, #yiv8924649207 span.yiv8924649207MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8924649207 a:visited, #yiv8924649207 span.yiv8924649207MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8924649207 span.yiv8924649207EmailStyle17 {color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv8924649207 .yiv8924649207MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv8924649207 filtered {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv8924649207 div.yiv8924649207WordSection1 {}#yiv8924649207 Hi Brian ? For what car?Barry. ?From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Dennis via Fot Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2017 2:44 PM To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] alloy caliper mount? ?Who is making alloy brake caliper mounts? I am looking for a set but need them slightly modified for a project I am working on.Thanks,BrianFoster, RI _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ponobill at gmail.com Sun Feb 5 09:12:02 2017 From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill) Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2017 08:12:02 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top fuel pump question References: <697175544.141147940.1486262854604.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Holley pumps are centrifugal, which means they can?t self-prime. Its not generally a problem if the height isn?t too much, but yes, it?s better with any centrifugal pump to have a net positive suction head. > > Bud, > I originally ran a blue Holley pump above the top level of my fuel cell with around two feet of hose to it, without a problem and I now use a Facel cylindrical type in the same spot, still with no problems. The Holley was too loud for anything but full throttle race conditions in my TR3. It buzzed terribly loud. If I mounted the Holley at the end of a ten foot stick outside the car, it might have been perfect. > The pump is mounted to the roll cage tube in the trunk and although rubber mounted, perhaps the intense buzzing sound was amplified through the cage tubing. > I still have the Holley as a back up. > I know many use these Holley pumps without problems, that's why I initially chose it. I just couldn't tolerate it's buzz during occasional street use or touring. Besides the noise it worked fine, above and away from the tank. > > // Dave H. > > Sent: Saturday, February 4, 2017 9:58:55 AM > Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top fuel pump question > > List, > > Holley recommends that their fuel pump be installed so that the pump is lower than the fuel level. Has anyone had a problem with the pump installed differently? > > My dilemma is that my fuel cell sits low (in a cut out with brackets) in the boot of my Spitfire and the previous owner had installed the old Holley pump lower than the fuel level but in what I felt like was a dangerous place as it was exposed under the car and the fuel lines were also routed where they could have gotten easily damaged (basically very close to the wheel well). I?m moving the fuel pump and the lines to be inside the boot but it is not possible to make the pump sit entirely below the fuel level since the bottom of the fuel cell sits below the floor of the boot. The chosen location makes the pump sit about 1/3 of the way from the fuel cell bottom. > > I know Holley wants to take advantage of the siphoning effect (apparently because they push fuel better than they pull fuel) but does that matter as long as the fuel pressure is maintained at the proper level for my carbs? I figure if I run with the fuel cell full (8 gal) the fuel level will be above the pump the majority of the time. I?ve been burning about 3-4 gallons per (20 min.) race. > > Has anyone had issues with the Holley fuel pumps not being installed exactly like Holley says? I?ve seen some other Spitfire racers with the Holley fuel pump NOT below the fuel level so I?m hoping it works for me to do the same. I?m thinking about one of the two locations shown in the pics. Right in front of the fuel cell is my preferred location at this point as the other location to the side of the fuel cell would be more vulnerable in a crash situation. > > Thanks > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Sun Feb 5 09:23:10 2017 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2017 16:23:10 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top fuel pump question References: , <20170205011432.5FC1616215D@relay.mailchannels.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 27874a48.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 85325 bytes Desc: 27874a48.jpeg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 27874a77.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 83329 bytes Desc: 27874a77.jpeg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 27874a86.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 83076 bytes Desc: 27874a86.jpeg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 27874a96.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 81928 bytes Desc: 27874a96.jpeg URL: From dbailey_wmi at yahoo.com Sun Feb 5 16:03:37 2017 From: dbailey_wmi at yahoo.com (Duane Bailey) Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2017 23:03:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top fuel pump question References: <697175544.141147940.1486262854604.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> I have run the Facet pump mounted to an aluminum panel mounted to the front of the boot in my SCCA Spit for over 20 years without ever having a problem or replacement. I actually have 2 because my cell has 2 pickups, I only run 1 pump at a time. They are about 6 in above the top of the cell, & just no problems. Duane On Sunday, February 5, 2017 4:40 AM, davehogye via Fot wrote: Bud, I originally ran a blue Holley pump above the top level of my fuel cell with around two feet of hose to it, without a problem and I now use a Facel cylindrical type in the same spot, still with no problems. ?The Holley was too loud for anything but full throttle race conditions in my TR3. ?It buzzed terribly loud. ?If I mounted the Holley at the end of a ten foot stick outside the car, it might have been perfect. ?The pump is mounted to the roll cage tube in the trunk and although rubber mounted, perhaps the intense buzzing sound was amplified through the cage tubing. ?I still have the Holley as a back up. ?I know many use these Holley pumps without problems, that's why I initially chose it. ?I just couldn't tolerate it's buzz during occasional street use or touring. ?Besides the noise it worked fine, above and away from the tank. // Dave H. From: "Bud R via Fot" To: "FOT" Sent: Saturday, February 4, 2017 9:58:55 AM Subject: [Fot] Holley Red Top fuel pump question List, Holley recommends that their fuel pump be installed so that the pump is lower than the fuel level. Has anyone had a problem with the pump installed ?differently?? My dilemma is that my fuel cell sits low (in a cut out with brackets) in the boot of my Spitfire and the previous owner had installed the old Holley pump lower than the fuel level but in what I felt like was a dangerous place as it was exposed under the car and the fuel lines were also routed where they could have gotten easily damaged (basically very close to the wheel well). I?m moving the fuel pump and the lines to be inside the boot but it is not possible to make the pump sit entirely below the fuel level since the bottom of the fuel cell sits below the floor of the boot. The chosen location makes the pump sit about 1/3 of the way from the fuel cell bottom. I know Holley wants to take advantage of the siphoning effect (apparently because they push fuel better than they pull fuel) but does that matter as long as the fuel pressure is maintained at the proper level for my carbs? I figure if I run with the fuel cell full (8 gal) the fuel level will be above the pump the majority of the time. I?ve been burning about 3-4 gallons per (20 min.) race. Has anyone had issues with the Holley fuel pumps not being installed exactly like Holley says? I?ve seen some other Spitfire racers with the Holley fuel pump NOT below the fuel level so I?m hoping it works for me to do the same. I?m thinking about one of the two locations shown in the pics. Right in front of the fuel cell is my preferred location at this point as the other location to the side of the fuel cell would be more vulnerable in a crash situation. ThanksBud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle? 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8201.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 81928 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8174.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 85325 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8176.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 83076 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8175.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 83329 bytes Desc: not available URL: From horizonracing at msn.com Sun Feb 5 18:43:32 2017 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey) Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2017 01:43:32 +0000 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] alloy caliper mount? References: <639322538.1463605.1486244633740.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <639322538.1463605.1486244633740@mail.yahoo.com> <001b01d27f6d$67984180$36c8c480$@ca> <922132097.1709717.1486292050870@mail.yahoo.com> <34ABAB8B-76EA-4A44-844D-C8CAE4090D08@me.com> <1969136675.1781625.1486308727858@mail.yahoo.com> Joe Siam at chequered Flag Racing . Sent from my iPhone Yes they do. However, I am looking for a manufacturer that may be able to modify it for me. The alloy brackets I have seen are machined from block stock so figured it wouldn't be difficult for the manufacturer to slightly change the layout. Thanks, Brian ________________________________ Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 9:54 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] [FOT] alloy caliper mount? Pretty sure Canley Classics sells them. Sent from my iPhone To bolt onto GT6 vertical link. Brian ________________________________ Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 12:04 AM Subject: RE: [FOT] alloy caliper mount? Hi Brian ? For what car? Barry. From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Dennis via Fot Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2017 2:44 PM To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] alloy caliper mount? Who is making alloy brake caliper mounts? I am looking for a set but need them slightly modified for a project I am working on. Thanks, Brian Foster, RI _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Wed Feb 8 14:54:41 2017 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 15:54:41 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Racing tires Friends CVAR, the TX based vintage club is reworking the tire rules to try and catch up with availability. The guy that is working on it sent me this list. Beyond the fact that it completely ignores the 60 series tires required by our current rules, Speedsters and A048's as examples of satisfactory tires, I find that the Toyo Proxes RR and Hankook Ventus Z214 are your basic slick with two grooves in circumference. Are other vintage clubs starting to accept this type of tire? Group 7 CVAR Approved Tires 13 inch 205/60/13 Toyo Proxes R888 Toyo Proxes R888R Toyo RA1 Toyo Proxes RR 14 inch 225/50/14 Hankook Ventus Z214 Toyo R888 15 inch 225/50/15 15 Inch 205/50/15 Pirelli P Zero Trofeo R Toyo R888 Toyo R888R Toyo RA 1 Toyo RR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Wed Feb 8 18:22:33 2017 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 20:22:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Racing tires References: <001201d28255$f4782030$dd686090$@rr.com> in the mid-atlantic region, VRG is not allowing the RR or the Hoosier R8 or similar tires, and with a few exceptions, requires at least a 60 series tire and wheels that are no more than 1? to 1-1/2? wider than stock, and stock diameter. SVRA is similar, and is in the process of phasing out the Toyo RA1. On Feb 8, 2017, at 4:54 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: Friends CVAR, the TX based vintage club is reworking the tire rules to try and catch up with availability. The guy that is working on it sent me this list. Beyond the fact that it completely ignores the 60 series tires required by our current rules, Speedsters and A048?s as examples of satisfactory tires, I find that the Toyo Proxes RR and Hankook Ventus Z214 are your basic slick with two grooves in circumference. Are other vintage clubs starting to accept this type of tire? Group 7 CVAR Approved Tires 13 inch 205/60/13 Toyo Proxes R888 Toyo Proxes R888R Toyo RA1 Toyo Proxes RR 14 inch 225/50/14 Hankook Ventus Z214 Toyo R888 15 inch 225/50/15 15 Inch 205/50/15 Pirelli P Zero Trofeo R Toyo R888 Toyo R888R Toyo RA 1 Toyo RR _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grandwazoo at earthlink.net Wed Feb 8 18:53:20 2017 From: grandwazoo at earthlink.net (Mike Jackson) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 20:53:20 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [Fot] Racing tires An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Wed Feb 8 20:38:35 2017 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 03:38:35 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Racing tires References: <001201d28255$f4782030$dd686090$@rr.com>, An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alleycatrace at gmail.com Wed Feb 8 20:55:24 2017 From: alleycatrace at gmail.com (Daryll Clark) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 19:55:24 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Selling Rover Aluminum 3.9 V8 Selling this 1992 Rover Aluminum 3.9 V8 includes Matching TR8 Belling Housing, TR8 5 Speed Transmission low mileage, and TR8 Sub Frame with V8 Motor Mount. Asking $1100 + Shipping or You Pick up, Southern California. Email or call Daryll 661 242-0137 -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Sent from my iPad From paulricco at att.net Wed Feb 8 21:02:15 2017 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 22:02:15 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Racing tires References: <001201d28255$f4782030$dd686090$@rr.com> > On Feb 8, 2017, at 7:22 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > in the mid-atlantic region, VRG is not allowing the RR or the Hoosier R8 or similar tires, and with a few exceptions, requires at least a 60 series tire and wheels that are no more than 1? to 1-1/2? wider than stock, and stock diameter. SVRA is similar, and is in the process of phasing out the Toyo RA1. > > > Friends > > CVAR, the TX based vintage club is reworking the tire rules to try and catch up with availability. The guy that is working on it sent me this list. Beyond the fact that it completely ignores the 60 series tires required by our current rules, Speedsters and A048?s as examples of satisfactory tires, I find that the Toyo Proxes RR and Hankook Ventus Z214 are your basic slick with two grooves in circumference. Are other vintage clubs starting to accept this type of tire? > > Group 7 CVAR Approved Tires > 13 inch 205/60/13 > Toyo Proxes R888 > Toyo Proxes R888R > Toyo RA1 > Toyo Proxes RR > 14 inch 225/50/14 > Hankook Ventus Z214 > Toyo R888 > 15 inch 225/50/15 15 Inch 205/50/15 > Pirelli P Zero Trofeo R > Toyo R888 > Toyo R888R > Toyo RA 1 > Toyo RR > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: SVRA_Tire_Regulations_2.17.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 349046 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cudapilot at comcast.net Thu Feb 9 10:16:50 2017 From: cudapilot at comcast.net (Brian Garcia) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 11:16:50 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Fot] 2017 Kastner Cup Update References: <84F56CFCC31FAC48AE160008ADDECFA547F143CD@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com> <5324B008-0FCA-4BE7-AA60-3FCC8F4349BA@multivintage.com> <1473802432.53955.1479333265359@connect.xfinity.com> Amici- Just 126 days until we are on track at Blackhawk Farms. I am so excited to see this come together. I have been working with the event chairs at VSDCA and the schedule is nearly complete. Registration should be opening up within the week. I'll send a link as soon as it goes live. I have been negotiating using feedback I have received from you all with regard to our anticipated field size. To that end, if you are able it will be very helpful if you are able to register as early as possible so that we can plan accordingly. VSCDA usually offers a financial incentive to register early and I expect that will be the case with this event as well. Their website ishttp://www.vsdca.org I wanted to share some additional developments regarding the FOT Paddock. The center of all Triumph - related activity will be a tented area in the middle of the FOT - designated area. That tent will host a hospitality area that I really think you'll like. It is there that racers and spectators will be able to gather to swap stories, catch up with old friends, watch in car video from the day's activities and so on. This is also where we will host the trophy presentations for the weekend. In addition to capturing the social aspect of FOT, we wanted the tent to also serve the competitors whose luck is maybe not the best that weekend. Even as we strive to "Never be Beaten by Equipment" we all are surely to take some blows. My lasting impression of FOT will always be my first Kastner Cup at Road Atlanta where at one point on Saturday there where four TR4s within twenty feet of my trailer door with a variety of ailments. And surrounding them were as many guys that could fit (and some that couldn't) all trying to help however they could. I want to foster that same spirit at this years event. So, Friendly Ghost Racing will be sponsoring a triage service area open to any competitor in need. There will be two service bays held open for anyone that needs a covered, lit, work area and our tools are your tools. There will be compressed air, scales, alignment tools, a welder, engine hoist - and if we don't have it at the track chances are we know where to get it. We want anyone that did us the honor of making the tow to the event to have every opportunity to make it on track. For the aid of our family and friends both at the track and away there are a few more items that I wanted to let you know about. We will be posting video updates and interviews throughout the weekend on social media. I will make sure that all needed links are in hand well before the weekend. I will also be contacting anyone that enters via email with a short list of questions. Don't be shy - it's for a good cause. We're putting together a spotter's guide for the Kastner Cup that will include pictures of all the cars and some basic history about it and its driver. It should be a helpful tool for the spectators and a nice keepsake for what we hope will be a memorable event. Several members have generously reached out and contributed some funds to help offset the cost of the event and I can't thank you enough for that support. If anyone else would like to help in any way feel free to contact me via email, phone, or text. Thanks again! Friendly Ghost Racing Brian Garcia 847-452-2246 cell / text cudapilot at comcast.net mailto:cudapilot at comcast.net Jason Ostrowski 312-208-5227 Jason at multivintage.com mailto:Jason at multivintage.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cudapilot at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britracer89 at yahoo.com Thu Feb 9 10:20:49 2017 From: britracer89 at yahoo.com (Brian Dennis) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 17:20:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Wilwood calipers? References: <1816766567.1856096.1486660849779.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Has anyone ever changed the disc width on a Wilwood caliper? Specifically the narrow 3.5" mount dynalite/dynapro. It appears Wilwood simply changes the spacer between the two halves. Thought I would ask before destroying a set.Thanks,Brian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From list at mackenzie.aero Thu Feb 9 13:29:57 2017 From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 14:29:57 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Racing tires References: <001201d28255$f4782030$dd686090$@rr.com> Bob: Another option for a 13 and 14 inch race tyres are the Federal SS595. Available in 185/60-13 and 195/60-14 these are a fully treaded R-comp style tyre than can be run on the street. The 13 inch version are priced less than $40 each. They are so cheap I bought an extra set! https://www.onlinetires.com/products/vehicle/tires/federal/185%252F60-13+fed eral+ss-595+80h.html Robert MacKenzie Spitfire Garage Georgetown, TX (210) 415-5107 From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Kramer via Fot Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 3:55 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Racing tires Friends CVAR, the TX based vintage club is reworking the tire rules to try and catch up with availability. The guy that is working on it sent me this list. Beyond the fact that it completely ignores the 60 series tires required by our current rules, Speedsters and A048's as examples of satisfactory tires, I find that the Toyo Proxes RR and Hankook Ventus Z214 are your basic slick with two grooves in circumference. Are other vintage clubs starting to accept this type of tire? Group 7 CVAR Approved Tires 13 inch 205/60/13 Toyo Proxes R888 Toyo Proxes R888R Toyo RA1 Toyo Proxes RR 14 inch 225/50/14 Hankook Ventus Z214 Toyo R888 15 inch 225/50/15 15 Inch 205/50/15 Pirelli P Zero Trofeo R Toyo R888 Toyo R888R Toyo RA 1 Toyo RR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Thu Feb 9 15:23:10 2017 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 08:23:10 +1000 Subject: [Fot] re racing tyres this is the approved "production car" tyre list here in australia. not a lot of use to you guys, except to show whats out there. nearly all race categories can now use 50 aspect ratio tyres as 60 aspect is becoming defunct. 14" also fast becoming obsolete and most categories allow a change up to 15" wheels . the significant exceptions are Historic Formula V and formula ford, which still must run quite specific tyres Manufacturer Tyre Achilles 123S Bridgestone RE 540S, RE55 Continental Conti Competition C1, ContiForceContact ZR 19 (front and rear variants) DMACK DMT-RC Dunlop Formula R (D83J, D84J, D93J, D01J, DZ02G, DZ03G), Formula 901, Formula W10, SP Super Sport Race Federal 595 RSR, 595 RS-RR, FZ201, FZ202 R Spec Hoosier Street TD Hankook Ventus TDZ221, RS-3 Kumho Ecsta V700, V70A Michelin Pilot Sport Cup, TB15 Ohtsu Falken Azenis, Azenis RT215 Pirelli P Zero C, P Zero Corsa Silverstone FTZ Sport Type RR, S575, S585 Toyo Proxes RA-1, Proxes R888, Trampion R881, Proxes R888R Yokohama A021R, A032R, A038R, A039R, A048R, A050 Terry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Thu Feb 9 16:19:56 2017 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 23:19:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 2017 Kastner Cup Update References: <84F56CFCC31FAC48AE160008ADDECFA547F143CD@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com> <5324B008-0FCA-4BE7-AA60-3FCC8F4349BA@multivintage.com> <1473802432.53955.1479333265359@connect.xfinity.com> <1862045373.139264.1486660611095@connect.xfinity.com> Hi, You need to add "https://" in to the VSCDA site, so the correct link is: https://www.vscda.org Bob Lang On Thursday, February 9, 2017 2:06 PM, Brian Garcia via Fot wrote: Amici- Just 126 days until we are on track at Blackhawk Farms. ?I am so excited to see this come together. ?I have been working with the event chairs at VSDCA and the schedule is nearly complete. ?Registration should be opening up within the week. ?I'll send a link as soon as it goes live. ?I have been negotiating using feedback I have received from you all with regard to our anticipated field size. ?To ?that end, if you are able it will be very helpful if you are able to register as early as possible so that we can plan accordingly. ?VSCDA usually offers a financial incentive to register early and I expect that will be the case with this event as well. ? Their website is www.vsdca.org?I wanted to share some additional developments regarding the FOT Paddock. ?The center of all Triumph - related activity will be a tented area in the middle of the FOT - designated area. ?That tent will host a hospitality area that I really think you'll like. ?It is there that racers and spectators will be able to gather to swap stories, catch up with old friends, watch in car video from the day's activities and so on. ?This is also where we will host the trophy presentations for the weekend. ?In addition to capturing the social aspect of FOT, we wanted the tent to also serve the competitors whose luck is maybe not the best that weekend. ?Even as we strive to "Never be Beaten by Equipment" we all are surely to take some blows. ?My lasting impression of FOT will always be my first Kastner Cup at Road Atlanta where at one point on Saturday there where four TR4s within twenty feet of my trailer door with a variety of ailments. ?And surrounding them were as many guys that could fit (and some that couldn't) all trying to help however they could. ?I want to foster that same spirit at this years event. ? So, Friendly Ghost Racing will be sponsoring a triage service area open to any competitor in need. ?There will be two service bays held open for anyone that needs a covered, lit, work area ?and our tools are your tools. ?There will be compressed air, scales, alignment tools, a welder, engine hoist - and if we don't have it at the track chances are we know where to get it. ?We want anyone that did us the honor of making the tow to the event to have every opportunity to make it on track. ? For the aid of our family and friends both at the track and away there are a few more items that I wanted to let you know about. ?We will be posting video updates and interviews throughout the weekend on social media. ?I will make sure that all needed links are in hand well before the weekend. ?I will also be contacting anyone that enters via email with a short list of questions. ?Don't be shy - it's for a good cause. ?We're putting together a spotter's guide for the Kastner Cup that will include pictures of all the cars and some basic history about it and its driver. ?It should be a helpful tool for the spectators and a nice keepsake for what we hope will be a memorable event.? Several members have generously reached out and contributed some funds to help offset the cost of the event and I can't thank you enough for that support. ?If anyone else would like to help in any way feel free to contact me via email, phone, or text. ?Thanks again! Friendly Ghost RacingBrian Garcia?847-452-2246 cell / textcudapilot at comcast.net Jason Ostrowski312-208-5227Jason at multivintage.com ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britcars at bellsouth.net Fri Feb 10 04:47:10 2017 From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 11:47:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Wilwood calipers? References: <1816766567.1856096.1486660849779.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1816766567.1856096.1486660849779@mail.yahoo.com> Easy to do. I think they sell different thickness spacers. I made my own based on the vented rotor I used. Easy and safe. The fluid lines ran outside the caliper and adjusted to the wider setting or I made new lines. If you have internal passages, you have to machine a small recess on both sides of the spacer and use new sealing rings.Barry On Thursday, February 9, 2017 2:27 PM, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Has anyone ever changed the disc width on a Wilwood caliper? Specifically the narrow 3.5" mount dynalite/dynapro. It appears Wilwood simply changes the spacer between the two halves. Thought I would ask before destroying a set.Thanks,Brian _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From timmmurphh at gmail.com Tue Feb 14 12:55:36 2017 From: timmmurphh at gmail.com (timmmurphh at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 13:55:36 -0600 Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the engine we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine shop says they are all about the same, very consistent. What pressures would be recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. Tim Murphy 1961 TR4 #317 BRG -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Tue Feb 14 13:49:53 2017 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 21:49:53 +0100 Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine References: <000001d286fc$57c3dc60$074b9520$@gmail.com> These are very light springs. I would run 250 seat pressure and 500 at full lift. Cheers Chris Von: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von timmmurphh--- via Fot Gesendet: Dienstag, 14. Februar 2017 20:56 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the engine we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine shop says they are all about the same, very consistent. What pressures would be recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. Tim Murphy 1961 TR4 #317 BRG -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Tue Feb 14 15:04:50 2017 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 17:04:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine References: <000001d286fc$57c3dc60$074b9520$@gmail.com> <005e01d28703$e536ef40$afa4cdc0$@com> I know I?m working with a very different engine - GT6 - thus smaller valves, but the closed seat pressure is 65 lb and the open pressure is 233 lb at 0.53? lift. This is per the cam designer. I?ve been running similar seat pressures for years, shifting at 7,000 RPM I would defer to the cam specs/designer. On Feb 14, 2017, at 3:49 PM, MadMarx via Fot wrote: These are very light springs. I would run 250 seat pressure and 500 at full lift. Cheers Chris Gesendet: Dienstag, 14. Februar 2017 20:56 Betreff: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the engine we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine shop says they are all about the same, very consistent. What pressures would be recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. Tim Murphy 1961 TR4 #317 BRG _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pvucinic at netspace.net.au Tue Feb 14 17:32:17 2017 From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 11:32:17 +1100 Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine References: <000001d286fc$57c3dc60$074b9520$@gmail.com> I would be EXTREMELY careful with too high a spring pressure. Been there, done that! If you go by all the STD calculations, theories and what you 'should have' texts. It will tell you need HIGH springs pressures. Destroyed a couple of cams that way! I just went back to springs with about the seat pressures you are looking at. Haven't had an issue with cams/cam lobes since. "You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started With A Lage Fortune!" Kind Regards Peter Vucinic TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfire MkII _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of timmmurphh--- via Fot Sent: Wednesday, 15 February 2017 6:56 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the engine we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine shop says they are all about the same, very consistent. What pressures would be recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. Tim Murphy 1961 TR4 #317 BRG -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Tue Feb 14 18:34:18 2017 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 20:34:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine References: <000001d286fc$57c3dc60$074b9520$@gmail.com> <005e01d28703$e536ef40$afa4cdc0$@com> The specs for the Isky dual spring setup (TR05-TR06) and TR-777 cam I use in my TR3 racer are: installed height 1.625" seat pressure 100# max coil bind height 1.060" spring rate #/inch 320 TR777 cam lift .480" I don't think your seat pressure is too far out of line but you should check your installed height with the manufacturer's spec sheet as Scott suggested. You may be able to increase seat pressure by adding shims but make sure to check for coil binding at max lift. On Tue, Feb 14, 2017 at 3:49 PM, MadMarx via Fot wrote: > These are very light springs. > > I would run 250 seat pressure and 500 at full lift. > > > > Cheers > > Chris > > > > *Von:* Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] *Im Auftrag von *timmmurphh--- > via Fot > *Gesendet:* Dienstag, 14. Februar 2017 20:56 > *An:* fot at autox.team.net > *Betreff:* [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine > > > > I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and it > sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of > pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the engine > we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine shop says > they are all about the same, very consistent. What pressures would be > recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 > RPM engine. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. > > > > Tim Murphy > > 1961 TR4 #317 BRG > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Tue Feb 14 19:15:59 2017 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 20:15:59 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Sports Cars and American Culture. A Lecture FOT Air and Space Curator, Dr. Jeremy Kinney is giving a lecture on Sports Cars and American Culture in D.C. on the 16th of February. This lecture is likely the precursor to a scholarly book on the subject Sports Cars in America. A long time Triumph owner, we applaud his efforts to bring us a study on the cultural impact of the Sports Car in America. Jeremy is responsible for the display and restoration of all military aircraft at Udvar-Hazy. Regards, Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From jason at multivintage.com Tue Feb 14 20:52:41 2017 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 22:52:41 -0500 Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine References: <000001d286fc$57c3dc60$074b9520$@gmail.com> This post has been swirling around in my head all day... Since We have always run 65 lbs closed pressure for the GT6 motors with several different cam lift scenarios... My initial thought and answer for Tim's inquiry would have been that 85 lbs seems just fine. I almost posted 85lbs seems just fine as if I really know what I'm talking about. And as I thought about it; the variables of stroke, size, height, wet liners, etc. may have all types of influence on the settings. With all that in mind I figured that I didn't have any reason assume that what we do with the GT6 would be at all applicable to the original inquiry. But I really wondered why his machinist would think that 85lbs is "light". Then the trusted voice of my mad German speed demon pipes in and says that it should be higher by an off the chart amount of poundage! Since he runs so well with a certain amount of reliability and obvious speed; it remains of interest to me (with now less understanding than prior to the original post) to fundamentally backtrack the inquiry of spring pressure theory. It seems that a huge # would yield a stronger bounce that would have certain benefits. It also seems that a stronger bounce would meet certain limits of stress on components and result in dangerous scenarios. Thus, there must be a line to cross, a minimum and a maximum. Dear Confucius, what say ye to the boundaries of such...and please, oh great one, present the essential expose. The formulaic dynamic as to the characteristic makeup of proper spring pressures is??? I always look to the west for such guidance, perhaps some wisdom exists in Santa Cruz? Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 Triumph GT6+ Racecars Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 14, 2017, at 7:32 PM, Peter Vucinic via Fot wrote: > > I would be EXTREMELY careful with too high a spring pressure. Been there, done that! If you go by all the STD calculations, theories and what you ?should have? texts. It will tell you need HIGH springs pressures. Destroyed a couple of cams that way! I just went back to springs with about the seat pressures you are looking at. Haven?t had an issue with cams/cam lobes since. > > > "You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started With A Lage Fortune!" > Kind Regards > Peter Vucinic > TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfire MkII > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of timmmurphh--- via Fot > Sent: Wednesday, 15 February 2017 6:56 AM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine > > I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the engine we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine shop says they are all about the same, very consistent. What pressures would be recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. > > Tim Murphy > 1961 TR4 #317 BRG > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhassall at gmail.com Tue Feb 14 21:23:07 2017 From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 23:23:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine References: <000001d286fc$57c3dc60$074b9520$@gmail.com> <005e01d28703$e536ef40$afa4cdc0$@com> +1 for John's numbers. I'm running Isky's TR-777 cam in my TR4 with the same specs John reported. I routinely spin my nitrided balanced stock crank and balanced/lightened shot peened stock rods to 6K with no valve issues. Don't have the cajones to spin it higher but it has never run out of breath.I should mention that I'm running BFE's oversize valves and checked seat pressures, installed height and coil bind very carefully. On Tue, Feb 14, 2017 at 8:34 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: > The specs for the Isky dual spring setup (TR05-TR06) and TR-777 cam I use > in my TR3 racer are: > > installed height 1.625" > seat pressure 100# > max coil bind height 1.060" > spring rate #/inch 320 > TR777 cam lift .480" > > I don't think your seat pressure is too far out of line but you should > check your installed height with the manufacturer's spec sheet as Scott > suggested. You may be able to increase seat pressure by adding shims but > make sure to check for coil binding at max lift. > > > > > > On Tue, Feb 14, 2017 at 3:49 PM, MadMarx via Fot > wrote: > >> These are very light springs. >> >> I would run 250 seat pressure and 500 at full lift. >> >> >> >> Cheers >> >> Chris >> >> >> >> *Von:* Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] *Im Auftrag von *timmmurphh--- >> via Fot >> *Gesendet:* Dienstag, 14. Februar 2017 20:56 >> *An:* fot at autox.team.net >> *Betreff:* [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine >> >> >> >> I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and it >> sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of >> pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the engine >> we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine shop says >> they are all about the same, very consistent. What pressures would be >> recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 >> RPM engine. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. >> >> >> >> Tim Murphy >> >> 1961 TR4 #317 BRG >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >> >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/jhassall at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Feb 14 22:05:46 2017 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 05:05:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine References: <000001d286fc$57c3dc60$074b9520$@gmail.com> <780B0C7E-804E-4992-8B87-B090EA9E88F5@multivintage.com> Yes! Let's hear some wisdom on this subject from Santa Cruz. Greg, please guide us with your knowledge. DH ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jason Ostrowski via Fot" To: "Peter Vucinic" Cc: "FOT" Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 7:52:41 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine This post has been swirling around in my head all day... Since We have always run 65 lbs closed pressure for the GT6 motors with several different cam lift scenarios... My initial thought and answer for Tim's inquiry would have been that 85 lbs seems just fine. I almost posted 85lbs seems just fine as if I really know what I'm talking about. And as I thought about it; the variables of stroke, size, height, wet liners, etc. may have all types of influence on the settings. With all that in mind I figured that I didn't have any reason assume that what we do with the GT6 would be at all applicable to the original inquiry. But I really wondered why his machinist would think that 85lbs is "light". Then the trusted voice of my mad German speed demon pipes in and says that it should be higher by an off the chart amount of poundage! Since he runs so well with a certain amount of reliability and obvious speed; it remains of interest to me (with now less understanding than prior to the original post) to fundamentally backtrack the inquiry of spring pressure theory. It seems that a huge # would yield a stronger bounce that would have certain benefits. It also seems that a stronger bounce would meet certain limits of stress on components and result in dangerous scenarios. Thus, there must be a line to cross, a minimum and a maximum. Dear Confucius, what say ye to the boundaries of such...and please, oh great one, present the essential expose. The formulaic dynamic as to the characteristic makeup of proper spring pressures is??? I always look to the west for such guidance, perhaps some wisdom exists in Santa Cruz? Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 Triumph GT6+ Racecars Sent from my iPhone On Feb 14, 2017, at 7:32 PM, Peter Vucinic via Fot < fot at autox.team.net > wrote: I would be EXTREMELY careful with too high a spring pressure. Been there, done that! If you go by all the STD calculations, theories and what you ?should have? texts. It will tell you need HIGH springs pressures. Destroyed a couple of cams that way! I just went back to springs with about the seat pressures you are looking at. Haven?t had an issue with cams/cam lobes since. "You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started With A Lage Fortune!" Kind Regards Peter Vucinic TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfire MkII _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From: Fot [ mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of timmmurphh--- via Fot Sent: Wednesday, 15 February 2017 6:56 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the engine we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine shop says they are all about the same, very consistent. What pressures would be recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. Tim Murphy 1961 TR4 #317 BRG
_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Feb 14 22:21:21 2017 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 23:21:21 -0600 Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine References: <000001d286fc$57c3dc60$074b9520$@gmail.com> Depends on the cam and accelerations the valve train needs to deal with as well as the weight of the valve train components. For the Larry Young Dx-298 cam, 100 lbs seat pressure is recommended. I run to 6500 plus with that (although generally shift at 6000) and don't see much evidence that it's too low. Less than that and I see an imprint of the foot of the lifter on the base of the cam lobe on the closing side indicating that things didn't stay in contact. Regards, Tony At 01:55 PM 2/14/2017, timmmurphh--- via Fot wrote: >Content-Type: multipart/alternative; > boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0001_01D286CA.0D2AA4E0" >Content-Language: en-us > >I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed >and it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 >lbs. of pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have >and the engine we have. The valve springs are double springs and >the machine shop says they are all about the same, very >consistent. What pressures would be recommended? The machine shop >thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice >will be appreciated. Thanks. > >Tim Murphy >1961 TR4 #317 BRG >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From bfeparts at aol.com Wed Feb 15 09:25:29 2017 From: bfeparts at aol.com (bfeparts at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 11:25:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine Hello Tim, Generally speaking your spring height should be set at 1.600 with something north of 100 lbs seat pressure. With a cam of only .400 valve lift you should have at least 210 lbs at full lift. At 6000 RPM you will not have any valve float with these figures. Brian Howlett British Frame and Engine 626-419-2786 bfeparts at aol.com Von: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von timmmurphh--- via Fot Gesendet: Dienstag, 14. Februar 2017 20:56 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the engine we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine shop says they are all about the same, very consistent. What pressures would be recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. Tim Murphy 1961 TR4 #317 BRG _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From timmmurphh at gmail.com Wed Feb 15 10:20:12 2017 From: timmmurphh at gmail.com (timmmurphh at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 11:20:12 -0600 Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine References: <000001d286fc$57c3dc60$074b9520$@gmail.com> Thanks for all of your responses. We are going to add 0.030 shim to give 1.625 in spring height with valve on seat for a spring pressure of 95 lbs. At valve full open with .342 max cam lift and 1.5 rocker arm ratio with a 0.016 valve clearance setting (Kastner G3 cam) we should get about 244 lbs. of spring pressure with the maximum valve lift of 0.497. At least that is what I calculated. As a note, I did get some valve float at about 6200 to 6300 RPM at Elkhart Lake last Fall with the 85 Lbs. of seat pressure when I went over our max RPM of 6000 trying to get past a Volvo. Tim Murphy From: timmmurphh at gmail.com [mailto:timmmurphh at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 1:56 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the engine we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine shop says they are all about the same, very consistent. What pressures would be recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. Tim Murphy 1961 TR4 #317 BRG -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From patrickmannion1 at netzero.com Wed Feb 15 13:31:41 2017 From: patrickmannion1 at netzero.com (patrickmannion1 at netzero.com) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 20:31:41 GMT Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine I agree with Brian's figures. He has been reliably racing his TR powered Morgan for years. David Newman (Newman Cams England) was saying 110 on the seat and I think 225 at full lift was sufficient (I'll look at my notes this weekend re other cams and pressure at full lift).We saw a lot of engines with way too much valve spring pressures causing wear and robbing horse power.Weight of valve train components, valve size, collet retainer material, ect all play a factor and checking for coil bind is critical. Sealed Power make a range of valve spring shims thicknesses that will increase you spring pressure, I have part numbers and thicknesses but am unable to get back home right now with mudslides and road closures here in Santa Cruz. Greg Solow (Santa Cruz CA) and Dema Elgin (Santa Rosa CA) have years of experience with various cams and valve spring set ups for TR3/4 engines.Pat MannionSanta Cruz CA ---------- Original Message ---------- From: davehogye via Fot To: Jason Ostrowski Cc: Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 05:05:46 +0000 (UTC) Yes! Let's hear some wisdom on this subject from Santa Cruz. Greg, please guide us with your knowledge. DH From: "Jason Ostrowski via Fot" To: "Peter Vucinic" Cc: "FOT" Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 7:52:41 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine This post has been swirling around in my head all day... Since We have always run 65 lbs closed pressure for the GT6 motors with several different cam lift scenarios... My initial thought and answer for Tim's inquiry would have been that 85 lbs seems just fine. I almost posted 85lbs seems just fine as if I really know what I'm talking about. And as I thought about it; the variables of stroke, size, height, wet liners, etc. may have all types of influence on the settings. With all that in mind I figured that I didn't have any reason assume that what we do with the GT6 would be at all applicable to the original inquiry. But I really wondered why his machinist would think that 85lbs is "light". Then the trusted voice of my mad German speed demon pipes in and says that it should be higher by an off the chart amount of poundage!Since he runs so well with a certain amount of reliability and obvious speed; it remains of interest to me (with now less understanding than prior to the original post) to fundamentally backtrack the inquiry of spring pressure theory. It seems that a huge # would yield a stronger bounce that would have certain benefits. It also seems that a stronger bounce would meet certain limits of stress on components and result in dangerous scenarios. Thus, there must be a line to cross, a minimum and a maximum. Dear Confucius, what say ye to the boundaries of such...and please, oh great one, present the essential expose. The formulaic dynamic as to the characteristic makeup of proper spring pressures is???I always look to the west for such guidance, perhaps some wisdom exists in Santa Cruz?Jason OstrowskiFriendly Ghost Racing1969 Triumph GT6+ Racecars Sent from my iPhone On Feb 14, 2017, at 7:32 PM, Peter Vucinic via Fot wrote: I would be EXTREMELY careful with too high a spring pressure. Been there, done that! If you go by all the STD calculations, theories and what you ‘should have’ texts. It will tell you need HIGH springs pressures. Destroyed a couple of cams that way! I just went back to springs with about the seat pressures you are looking at. Haven’t had an issue with cams/cam lobes since. "You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started With A Lage Fortune!" Kind Regards Peter Vucinic TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfire MkII _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of timmmurphh--- via Fot Sent: Wednesday, 15 February 2017 6:56 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the engine we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine shop says they are all about the same, very consistent. What pressures would be recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. Tim Murphy 1961 TR4 #317 BRG _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ____________________________________________________________ How This "Fountain of Youth" Fruit Turns Back Time On Bodies The McClain Plan http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/58a4baf1cc7103af10bf4st02vuc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From awashatko at wi.rr.com Wed Feb 15 14:18:36 2017 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 15:18:36 -0600 Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine References: <20170215.123141.29191.0@webmail12.vgs.untd.com> I run 110lbs seat pressure and 235lbs open. The TR6 sees 8,000 rpm's. Allen Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 15, 2017, at 2:31 PM, patrickmannion1--- via Fot wrote: > > I agree with Brian's figures. He has been reliably racing his TR powered Morgan for years. David Newman (Newman Cams England) was saying 110 on the seat and I think 225 at full lift was sufficient (I'll look at my notes this weekend re other cams and pressure at full lift). > We saw a lot of engines with way too much valve spring pressures causing wear and robbing horse power. > Weight of valve train components, valve size, collet retainer material, ect all play a factor and checking for coil bind is critical. > Sealed Power make a range of valve spring shims thicknesses that will increase you spring pressure, I have part numbers and thicknesses but am unable to get back home right now with mudslides and road closures here in Santa Cruz. Greg Solow (Santa Cruz CA) and Dema Elgin (Santa Rosa CA) have years of experience with various cams and valve spring set ups for TR3/4 engines. > Pat Mannion > Santa Cruz CA > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: davehogye via Fot > To: Jason Ostrowski > Cc: Friends of Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine > Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 05:05:46 +0000 (UTC) > > Yes! Let's hear some wisdom on this subject from Santa Cruz. Greg, please guide us with your knowledge. > > DH > > From: "Jason Ostrowski via Fot" > To: "Peter Vucinic" > Cc: "FOT" > Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 7:52:41 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine > > This post has been swirling around in my head all day... Since We have always run 65 lbs closed pressure for the GT6 motors with several different cam lift scenarios... My initial thought and answer for Tim's inquiry would have been that 85 lbs seems just fine. I almost posted 85lbs seems just fine as if I really know what I'm talking about. And as I thought about it; the variables of stroke, size, height, wet liners, etc. may have all types of influence on the settings. With all that in mind I figured that I didn't have any reason assume that what we do with the GT6 would be at all applicable to the original inquiry. But I really wondered why his machinist would think that 85lbs is "light". > Then the trusted voice of my mad German speed demon pipes in and says that it should be higher by an off the chart amount of poundage! > Since he runs so well with a certain amount of reliability and obvious speed; it remains of interest to me (with now less understanding than prior to the original post) to fundamentally backtrack the inquiry of spring pressure theory. > It seems that a huge # would yield a stronger bounce that would have certain benefits. It also seems that a stronger bounce would meet certain limits of stress on components and result in dangerous scenarios. Thus, there must be a line to cross, a minimum and a maximum. > Dear Confucius, what say ye to the boundaries of such...and please, oh great one, present the essential expose. > The formulaic dynamic as to the characteristic makeup of proper spring pressures is??? > I always look to the west for such guidance, perhaps some wisdom exists in Santa Cruz? > Jason Ostrowski > Friendly Ghost Racing > 1969 Triumph GT6+ Racecars > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Feb 14, 2017, at 7:32 PM, Peter Vucinic via Fot wrote: > > I would be EXTREMELY careful with too high a spring pressure. Been there, done that! If you go by all the STD calculations, theories and what you ?should have? texts. It will tell you need HIGH springs pressures. Destroyed a couple of cams that way! I just went back to springs with about the seat pressures you are looking at. Haven?t had an issue with cams/cam lobes since. > > > > > > "You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started With A Lage Fortune!" > > Kind Regards > > Peter Vucinic > > TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfire MkII > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of timmmurphh--- via Fot > Sent: Wednesday, 15 February 2017 6:56 AM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine > > > > I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the engine we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine shop says they are all about the same, very consistent. What pressures would be recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. > > > > Tim Murphy > > 1961 TR4 #317 BRG > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > How This "Fountain of Youth" Fruit Turns Back Time On Bodies > The McClain Plan > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3242/58a4baf1cc7103af10bf4st02vuc > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/awashatko at wi.rr.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Wed Feb 15 15:13:45 2017 From: Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 14:13:45 -0800 Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine Unless your valve gear is extremely light weight, you should probably be running at least 105 lbs of pressure on the seat with the valve closed. A G3 cam is a pretty aggressive grind that is designed to run up close to 6800 rpm. 95 psi on the seat is not enough. Greg Solow The Engine Room Sports Car Specialists Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831 429-1800 ------- Original Message ------- >From : timmmurphh--- via Fot[mailto:fot at autox.team.net] Sent : 2/15/2017 9:20:12 AM To : fot at autox.team.net Cc : Subject : RE: Re: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine Thanks for all of your responses. We are going to add 0.030 shim to give 1.625 in spring height with valve on seat for a spring pressure of 95 lbs. At valve full open with .342 max cam lift and 1.5 rocker arm ratio with a 0.016 valve clearance setting (Kastner G3 cam) we should get about 244 lbs. of spring pressure with the maximum valve lift of 0.497. At least that is what I calculated. As a note, I did get some valve float at about 6200 to 6300 RPM at Elkhart Lake last Fall with the 85 Lbs. of seat pressure when I went over our max RPM of 6000 trying to get past a Volvo. Tim Murphy From: timmmurphh at gmail.com [mailto:timmmurphh at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 1:56 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the engine we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine shop says they are all about the same, very consistent. What pressures would be recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. Tim Murphy1961 TR4 #317 BRG From cartravel at pobox.com Thu Feb 16 10:00:01 2017 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2017 11:00:01 -0600 Subject: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine References: <000001d286fc$57c3dc60$074b9520$@gmail.com> Those are pretty close to the stock springs. Most likely your engine guy is used to big American V8's with heavy valve trains. I got very interested in cams and valve train dynamics when I started racing 15 years ago. I tried to figure this stuff out using engineering principals (always a dangerous idea). I read all the books and a ton of SAE technical articles and have also done calculations with valve train dynamic models. When the lash is first taken up at speed, it causes an impact event, akin to smacking a tuning fork with a hammer. I don't believe this situation is accurately modeled. So, the seat pressure is basically determined experimentally. The ramp design and valve lash have to be very important because it determines how hard you smack the tuning fork and can effect things like valves bouncing off the seat at closing. All too often I have found that cams from the usual suspects seem to disregard the idea of ramp design - see the bottom of http://tildentechnologies.com/Cams/Tip_Lash.html. - Larry On 2/14/2017 1:55 PM, timmmurphh--- via Fot wrote: > > I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and > it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of > pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the > engine we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine > shop says they are all about the same, very consistent. What > pressures would be recommended? The machine shop thinks these > pressures are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice will be > appreciated. Thanks. > > Tim Murphy > > 1961 TR4 #317 BRG > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gasket.works at gte.net Thu Feb 16 17:34:03 2017 From: gasket.works at gte.net (Mordy Dunst) Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2017 19:34:03 -0500 Subject: [Fot] voltage References: <178e9ad74ee24f929e4d2636216aa7a0.Gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com> How much voltage can I put into a stock ignition. ? 14.5? MDunst Headgasket.com 626.358.1616 T 626.628.3777 F Triple R Munitions, Inc 626.201.9471 T FFL 6,7 SOT 2 On Wednesday, February 15, 2017, Gregmogdoc--- via Fot wrote: Unless your valve gear is extremely light weight, you should probably be running at least 105 lbs of pressure on the seat with the valve closed. A G3 cam is a pretty aggressive grind that is designed to run up close to 6800 rpm. 95 psi on the seat is not enough. Greg Solow The Engine Room Sports Car Specialists Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831 429-1800 ------- Original Message ------- >From : timmmurphh--- via Fot[mailto:fot at autox.team.net] Sent : 2/15/2017 9:20:12 AM To : fot at autox.team.net Cc : Subject : RE: Re: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine Thanks for all of your responses. We are going to add 0.030 shim to give 1.625 in spring height with valve on seat for a spring pressure of 95 lbs. At valve full open with .342 max cam lift and 1.5 rocker arm ratio with a 0.016 valve clearance setting (Kastner G3 cam) we should get about 244 lbs. of spring pressure with the maximum valve lift of 0.497. At least that is what I calculated. As a note, I did get some valve float at about 6200 to 6300 RPM at Elkhart Lake last Fall with the 85 Lbs. of seat pressure when I went over our max RPM of 6000 trying to get past a Volvo. Tim Murphy From: timmmurphh at gmail.com [mailto:timmmurphh at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 1:56 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine I have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the valve closed and it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of pressure. We only run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the engine we have. The valve springs are double springs and the machine shop says they are all about the same, very consistent. What pressures would be recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. Tim Murphy1961 TR4 #317 BRG _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From ponobill at gmail.com Thu Feb 16 18:14:06 2017 From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill) Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2017 17:14:06 -0800 Subject: [Fot] voltage References: <178e9ad74ee24f929e4d2636216aa7a0.Gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com> <15a497d7469-3a4a-fe64@webprd-m38.mail.aol.com> 14.5 is normal for an alternator. You can put much more voltage?24 volts is fine, though you?ll blow lots of other stuff. Just make sure you use a ballast resistor and keep an eye on your points. Condensers kind of suck these days. They?ll handle much higher voltage (like 400V) but the ground connection is often iffy. A higher primary voltage can pit the points quickly if your condenser isn?t up to snuff. If it is, then it won?t hurt a thing. The flyback voltage is hundreds of volts. > On Feb 16, 2017, at 4:34 PM, Mordy Dunst via Fot wrote: > > How much voltage can I put into a stock ignition. ? 14.5? > > MDunst Headgasket.com 626.358.1616 T 626.628.3777 F Triple R Munitions, Inc 626.201.9471 T FFL 6,7 SOT 2 > > On Wednesday, February 15, 2017, Gregmogdoc--- via Fot wrote: > > Unless your valve gear is extremely light weight, you > should probably be running at least 105 lbs of > pressure on the seat with the valve closed. A G3 cam > is a pretty aggressive grind that is designed to run > up close to 6800 rpm. 95 psi on the seat is not enough. > > > Greg Solow > The Engine Room > Sports Car Specialists > Santa Cruz, CA 95060 > 831 429-1800 > > > > ------- Original Message ------- > From : timmmurphh--- via > Fot[mailto:fot at autox.team.net] > Sent : 2/15/2017 9:20:12 AM > To : fot at autox.team.net > Cc : > Subject : RE: Re: [Fot] valve spring pressure on TR4 > race engine > > Thanks for all of your responses. We are going to > add 0.030 shim to give 1.625 in spring height with > valve on seat for a spring pressure of 95 lbs. At > valve full open with .342 max cam lift and 1.5 rocker > arm ratio with a 0.016 valve clearance setting > (Kastner G3 cam) we should get about 244 lbs. of > spring pressure with the maximum valve lift of 0.497. > At least that is what I calculated. As a note, I did > get some valve float at about 6200 to 6300 RPM at > Elkhart Lake last Fall with the 85 Lbs. of seat > pressure when I went over our max RPM of 6000 trying > to get past a Volvo. Tim Murphy From: > timmmurphh at gmail.com [mailto:timmmurphh at gmail.com] > Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 1:56 PM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: valve spring pressure on TR4 race engine I > have 85 lbs. pressure on the intake valve with the > valve closed and it sits at a height of 1.655 inches. > At .400 lift, I have 190 lbs. of pressure. We only > run to 6000 RPM with the gearing we have and the > engine we have. The valve springs are double springs > and the machine shop says they are all about the > same, very consistent. What pressures would be > recommended? The machine shop thinks these pressures > are light for a 6000 RPM engine. Any advice will be > appreciated. Thanks. Tim Murphy1961 TR4 #317 BRG > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gasket.works at gte.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > From my71spit13 at yahoo.com Sun Feb 19 16:22:56 2017 From: my71spit13 at yahoo.com (Shawn Frank) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 23:22:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] kcup schedule? References: <1826876421.617001.1487546576673.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Is there a schedule of events for the Kastner Cup weekend yet? Shawn Frank Editor-Spitfire & GT6 Magazine Owner-Continued Legacy Owner-North American Triumphs Driver-Drive Away Cancer Iowa FOT/IBCC/VTR/NASS #515-339-4228 '63 Triumph Spitfire 4 (MK1) '71 Triumph Spitfire MKIV (Gertrude) '72 Triumph GT6 '76 Triumph TR7 Victory Edition '80 Triumph Spitfire 1500 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Feb 19 17:53:56 2017 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 18:53:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] kcup schedule? References: <1826876421.617001.1487546576673.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1826876421.617001.1487546576673@mail.yahoo.com> No schedules have been posted to the VSCDA website yet. Tony Drews At 05:22 PM 2/19/2017, Shawn Frank via Fot wrote: >Is there a schedule of events for the Kastner Cup weekend yet? > >Shawn Frank >Editor-Spitfire & GT6 Magazine >Owner-Continued Legacy >Owner-North American Triumphs >Driver-Drive Away Cancer Iowa >FOT/IBCC/VTR/NASS >#515-339-4228 > >'63 Triumph Spitfire 4 (MK1) >'71 Triumph Spitfire MKIV (Gertrude) >'72 Triumph GT6 >'76 Triumph TR7 Victory Edition >'80 Triumph Spitfire 1500 >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From cudapilot at comcast.net Sun Feb 19 18:58:57 2017 From: cudapilot at comcast.net (Brian Garcia) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 19:58:57 -0600 Subject: [Fot] kcup schedule? References: <1826876421.617001.1487546576673.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1826876421.617001.1487546576673@mail.yahoo.com> Shawn- VSCDA is still tweaking their competitor schedule so I can't release exact times just yet. Friday will have multiple practice sessions. Saturday will have qualifying sessions and the Kastner Cup will be at the end of the day. Sunday will have a morning feature race along with a scramble race in the afternoon. I will post info to the list as soon as I get the official nod. Please contact me with any questions. Thanks! Brian Garcia 847-452-2246 Cudapilot at comcast.net > On Feb 19, 2017, at 5:22 PM, Shawn Frank via Fot wrote: > > Is there a schedule of events for the Kastner Cup weekend yet? > > Shawn Frank > Editor-Spitfire & GT6 Magazine > Owner-Continued Legacy > Owner-North American Triumphs > Driver-Drive Away Cancer Iowa > FOT/IBCC/VTR/NASS > #515-339-4228 > > '63 Triumph Spitfire 4 (MK1) > '71 Triumph Spitfire MKIV (Gertrude) > '72 Triumph GT6 > '76 Triumph TR7 Victory Edition > '80 Triumph Spitfire 1500 > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cudapilot at comcast.net > > From apackard68 at att.net Sun Feb 19 22:32:04 2017 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 21:32:04 -0800 Subject: [Fot] GT6+ engine in a TR4 Hi FOT'ers We lowered the GT6+ engine with TR6 tranny into the TR4 this weekend, quickly discovering the steering rack position needing to go forward and the need for an engine mount solution. I turned to Tony Vigliotti at Rat-co for advice and provided pics to him. I'm looking forward to his response and guidance as Tony has always been extremely generous with his time and advice. I also wanted to reach out to this group to understand if anyone had made this swap and what their solution was for the fitting issues. I'm thinking we could just weld in an added cross member and move the steering rack mounts forward by attaching to this new piece. For the engine mounts, I have no idea what the stock mounts are in a TR4 so I don't know if fabrication or stock parts solutions are needed to secure the engine. Any specific examples of your solutions are appreciated. Please remember this is a 24 hours of Lemons project and we are looking for an extremely cheap and DIY solution. Andy Packard Bay Area CA From dos_gusanos at msn.com Mon Feb 20 06:50:26 2017 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 13:50:26 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Anyone have a TR3 rear end 3.7 for sale complete with housing? I am looking for one. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM 505-259-1537 Sent from Outlook -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ponobill at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 07:32:08 2017 From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 06:32:08 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Anyone have a TR3 rear end 3.7 for sale complete with housing? References: I have a few. > On Feb 20, 2017, at 5:50 AM, Henry Morrison via Fot wrote: > > I am looking for one. > > Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM 505-259-1537 > > Sent from Outlook > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ponobill at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 08:15:33 2017 From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 07:15:33 -0800 Subject: [Fot] GT6+ engine in a TR4 References: Don?t move the rack unless you are prepared to either do a lot of engineering or to drive a car that steers itself?generally in the wrong direction. You?ll get lots of bump steer. the car probably has all it needs already. Much easier, and generally better, to move the engine back and maybe down a bit. You?ll need a shorter driveshaft, and none of the stock engine and transmission mounts will work, but that?s easy to fix and the weight bias will be much better. Bill > On Feb 19, 2017, at 9:32 PM, Andrew Packard via Fot wrote: > > Hi FOT'ers > > We lowered the GT6+ engine with TR6 tranny into the TR4 this weekend, quickly discovering the steering rack position needing to go forward and the need for an engine mount solution. I turned to Tony Vigliotti at Rat-co for advice and provided pics to him. I'm looking forward to his response and guidance as Tony has always been extremely generous with his time and advice. > > I also wanted to reach out to this group to understand if anyone had made this swap and what their solution was for the fitting issues. I'm thinking we could just weld in an added cross member and move the steering rack mounts forward by attaching to this new piece. For the engine mounts, I have no idea what the stock mounts are in a TR4 so I don't know if fabrication or stock parts solutions are needed to secure the engine. Any specific examples of your solutions are appreciated. Please remember this is a 24 hours of Lemons project and we are looking for an extremely cheap and DIY solution. > > Andy Packard > Bay Area CA > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Mon Feb 20 09:34:12 2017 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 08:34:12 -0800 Subject: [Fot] GT6+ engine in a TR4 References: <2D8CAE4A-0AA4-4842-BF6B-49FCFDD1BA44@ponostyle.com> Isn't the TR4 frame very similar to a TR6 frame? Shouldn't the 6 cylinder motor fit in similarly as a TR250 motor? The 6 in a TR6 is a snug fit with about 1/2" clearance from dampener to steering rack. Would just adding TR6 mounts solve this problem? The TR6 transmission is the same dimensions as the TR4 transmission. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill via Fot" To: "Andrew Packard" Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" ; "John Sisler" Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 7:15 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6+ engine in a TR4 > Don?t move the rack unless you are prepared to either do a lot of > engineering or to drive a car that steers itself?generally in the wrong > direction. You?ll get lots of bump steer. the car probably has all it > needs already. Much easier, and generally better, to move the engine back > and maybe down a bit. You?ll need a shorter driveshaft, and none of the > stock engine and transmission mounts will work, but that?s easy to fix and > the weight bias will be much better. > Bill > >> On Feb 19, 2017, at 9:32 PM, Andrew Packard via Fot >> wrote: >> >> Hi FOT'ers >> >> We lowered the GT6+ engine with TR6 tranny into the TR4 this weekend, >> quickly discovering the steering rack position needing to go forward and >> the need for an engine mount solution. I turned to Tony Vigliotti at >> Rat-co for advice and provided pics to him. I'm looking forward to his >> response and guidance as Tony has always been extremely generous with his >> time and advice. >> >> I also wanted to reach out to this group to understand if anyone had made >> this swap and what their solution was for the fitting issues. I'm >> thinking we could just weld in an added cross member and move the >> steering rack mounts forward by attaching to this new piece. For the >> engine mounts, I have no idea what the stock mounts are in a TR4 so I >> don't know if fabrication or stock parts solutions are needed to secure >> the engine. Any specific examples of your solutions are appreciated. >> Please remember this is a 24 hours of Lemons project and we are looking >> for an extremely cheap and DIY solution. >> >> Andy Packard >> Bay Area CA >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com > > > From mdporter at dfn.com Mon Feb 20 11:22:09 2017 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 11:22:09 -0700 Subject: [Fot] GT6+ engine in a TR4 References: <2D8CAE4A-0AA4-4842-BF6B-49FCFDD1BA44@ponostyle.com> <20A7BC6FB8DE4503AD5967BDD18BC3D2@Charly> On 2/20/2017 9:34 AM, Charly Mitchel via Fot wrote: > Isn't the TR4 frame very similar to a TR6 frame? Um, no. The TR4A IRS frame is closest to the TR6 frame and probably would be the one which would accept a six-cylinder most easily, since that's the platform used with the TR250/TR5. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From apackard68 at att.net Mon Feb 20 18:23:24 2017 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 17:23:24 -0800 Subject: [Fot] GT6+ engine in a TR4 References: <2D8CAE4A-0AA4-4842-BF6B-49FCFDD1BA44@ponostyle.com> <20A7BC6FB8DE4503AD5967BDD18BC3D2@Charly> Thanks for all the responses! Based on the replies, we'll try and move the engine back a few inches to allow for the use of the stock steering arrangement. That may allow the TR4 cross piece to be used. When we got the car, it already had a 13b rotary swap in it with tags indicating last on the road in 1991, so we have no TR4 motor to go back to and we are locked into using the TR4 frame. We've moved away from the rotary concept and are down the 6 cylinder TR solution path. I'll be glad to update the group as we make progress and hit the next hurdle. Andy On Feb 20, 2017, at 1:41 PM, John Styduhar wrote: > Isn't the TR4 frame very similar to a TR6 frame? No, except it is made from very thin box section. The TRA IRS is similar. The rear axle setup, front and rear suspension , engine mounts, etc. are different. > Shouldn't the 6 cylinder motor fit in similarly as a TR250 motor? The TR250 engine is the same as the TR6, not the GT6. The TR250 and TR6 frames are very similar if not the same. > The 6 in a TR6 is a snug fit with about 1/2" clearance from dampener to steering rack. > Would just adding TR6 mounts solve this problem? You will need to figure out where to fasten the TR6 mounts to the TR4 frame. The TR4 engine mounts are located on the inboard spring towers which are probably to forward to the 6 cylinder engine. > The TR6 transmission is the same dimensions as the TR4 transmission. Yes the cases are very similar but you will need to fab up the rear trans mount location and probably a custom length driveshaft > > > On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 11:34 AM, Charly Mitchel via Fot wrote: > Isn't the TR4 frame very similar to a TR6 frame? > Shouldn't the 6 cylinder motor fit in similarly as a TR250 motor? > The 6 in a TR6 is a snug fit with about 1/2" clearance from dampener to steering rack. > Would just adding TR6 mounts solve this problem? > The TR6 transmission is the same dimensions as the TR4 transmission. > Charly Mitchel > TR6 #44 > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill via Fot" > To: "Andrew Packard" > Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" ; "John Sisler" > Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 7:15 AM > Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6+ engine in a TR4 > > > Don?t move the rack unless you are prepared to either do a lot of engineering or to drive a car that steers itself?generally in the wrong direction. You?ll get lots of bump steer. the car probably has all it needs already. Much easier, and generally better, to move the engine back and maybe down a bit. You?ll need a shorter driveshaft, and none of the stock engine and transmission mounts will work, but that?s easy to fix and the weight bias will be much better. > Bill > > On Feb 19, 2017, at 9:32 PM, Andrew Packard via Fot wrote: > > Hi FOT'ers > > We lowered the GT6+ engine with TR6 tranny into the TR4 this weekend, quickly discovering the steering rack position needing to go forward and the need for an engine mount solution. I turned to Tony Vigliotti at Rat-co for advice and provided pics to him. I'm looking forward to his response and guidance as Tony has always been extremely generous with his time and advice. > > I also wanted to reach out to this group to understand if anyone had made this swap and what their solution was for the fitting issues. I'm thinking we could just weld in an added cross member and move the steering rack mounts forward by attaching to this new piece. For the engine mounts, I have no idea what the stock mounts are in a TR4 so I don't know if fabrication or stock parts solutions are needed to secure the engine. Any specific examples of your solutions are appreciated. Please remember this is a 24 hours of Lemons project and we are looking for an extremely cheap and DIY solution. > > Andy Packard > Bay Area CA > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autoxteam.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Tue Feb 21 10:06:53 2017 From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 12:06:53 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Duel in the Desert Amici... I have not been receiving very many FOT emails recently, and many I do receive suggest they are the 4th or 5th response to previous email threads which I definitely did not receive. Thus this may be old news. I spent last Saturday and Sunday at the Spring Mountain Motor Sports Ranch in Pahrump, Nevada. It is a nice 'Country Club' type circuit, and VARA was holding its Duel in the Desert spring event. A nice gaggle of Triumphs was entered, including Chuck Gee and Stephen Jones in GT6s, Kevin Ayers, Jerry Baker, Richard Grabowski, Greg Siam, and Dale Wallace in Spitfires, and Ken Knight in his TR4. I understand that both Kas Kastner and Joe Alexander were in attendance on Friday, and I am so sorry I missed seeing them. Saturday was really messy. Lots of rain early, and wet, moist, misty weather all afternoon. Practice and qualifying sessions were a lot more like ice skating than road racing, as the cars tip-toed around the track. All of the Triumphs were assigned to one race group. It was a large, competitive group. On Sunday the Race Gods smiled, and there was good weather again. The Triumphs raced in the 1:30 PM Flag Race, and were spread throughout the grid. Ken Knight was highest, sitting fourth on the grid. He passed the third place car on Lap ONE, and the second place car on Lap TWO. He was closing in on the leader, but never had to catch or pass him, as at some point the leader retired. Ken Knight got a very nice First Overall finish. The course they were running was 3.4 miles, and so the twenty-five minute sessions were only lasting five laps or so. It was very impressive for me to see a TR4 finish first overall. Kudos Ken Knight (hmmmm...alliteration). As I did not see a sheet with the final race results, and because I was clocking Ken, I am not sure how others made out. But I do know that there was excellent dicing throughout the race group and the Triumphs were heavily involved. There were some interesting cars entered in that race group as well, including an Allard K2 and a Marcos GT. I had a good time. Bill Dentinger -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 16:10:22 2017 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 15:10:22 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup Appearances -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: FullSizeRender.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 60835 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 16:17:02 2017 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 15:17:02 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Another Appearance at The Kastner Cup -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 9F628603-91A0-4E92-A6E1-F361EE2CD365.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 775632 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From steve at artwithcars.com Tue Feb 21 20:51:44 2017 From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 19:51:44 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Vintage Racer for sale (NFI) Hey FOT, Here?s a red TR4 for sale on Bring A Trailer (NFI) http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-triumph-2000/ ~STEVE -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From biznzman at pacbell.net Thu Feb 23 06:29:18 2017 From: biznzman at pacbell.net (STEPHEN BOROWSKI) Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2017 13:29:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup Hotel References: <323634853.4511211.1487856558147.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Hello All,What and where are FOT staying for the Kastner Cup race? Thxs.Steve FL TR-4 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cudapilot at comcast.net Thu Feb 23 07:00:00 2017 From: cudapilot at comcast.net (Brian Garcia) Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2017 08:00:00 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup Hotel References: <323634853.4511211.1487856558147.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <323634853.4511211.1487856558147@mail.yahoo.com> The host hotel is the Hampton Inn in Beloit, WI. As of a week or so ago there were a few rooms left in our block. You have to tell them you are with the Blackhawk Classic Friends of Triumph group as all other rooms have been full for awhile. The phone number is 608-362-6000. Thanks, Brian > On Feb 23, 2017, at 7:29 AM, STEPHEN BOROWSKI via Fot wrote: > > Hello All, > What and where are FOT staying for the Kastner Cup race? > > Thxs. > Steve FL TR-4 > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cudapilot at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Thu Feb 23 21:05:08 2017 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2017 21:05:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Vintage Racer for sale (NFI) References: <78F5E1E4-9E30-4C9C-94C5-D17B41F496EF@artwithcars.com> On 02/21/2017 08:51 PM, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: > Hey FOT, > > Here?s a red TR4 for sale on Bring A Trailer (NFI) > > http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-triumph-2000/ > > ~STEVE > > I wish. mjb. From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Sat Feb 25 20:28:13 2017 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2017 21:28:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Jerry Barker | The Road Racing Drivers Club FOT, One of our quietly famous Kastner Cup entrants. Saw Jerry in Nevada last week. He confirms that he and Jan will be at the Kastner Cup. He gets "jaw dropping" performance out of a Herald Sedan and will be a front runner at the Cup. He is a Kastner Cup winner TWICE. But you guys know all of that already. Some things just bear repeating. But did you know that he is a member of The Road Racing Drivers Club? http://www.rrdc.org/member/jerry-barker/ Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Feb 26 13:11:10 2017 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2017 13:11:10 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Transverse Leaf Spring Orientation? List, The manual says to put the transverse leaf spring in with the front of the spring towards the front of the car. I didn?t pay any attention when I took it out since I didn?t know that was important to know and odds are it might not have been put in right by the previous owner anyhow. I don?t see any obvious way of knowing what the front of the spring is since it?s not marked on the spring and there?s no obvious way of knowing what the front is. There is no difference in curve or bolt holes or anything I can see to figure this out. Anyone know how to tell what the front is or know if it matters? I figure it matters since the manual is specific about it but I don?t know why. I don?t want to get to the point of putting the vertical links, shocks, etc. back on only to find out it does matter for fitting everything back together. Thanks for your help. Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Feb 26 13:47:14 2017 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R) Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2017 13:47:14 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Transverse Leaf Spring Orientation? References: A little more info. This is a transverse leaf spring for a MK IV Spitfire and uses four studs to bolt to the differential not six studs like earlier cars. Found another manual that says the spring clips are marked ?Front? but of course my spring clips don?t have any markings. The spring has been de-arched for camber and the spring clips were welded back together not bolted back together. The manual also says the main spring leaf should have a ground edge and that should be mounted towards the back of the car but again my main spring leaf looks the same on both edges with no obvious ground edge. Strike two. Maybe on a race car with a de-arched spring it?s not important. Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) On Feb 26, 2017, at 1:11 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > List, > > The manual says to put the transverse leaf spring in with the front of the spring towards the front of the car. I didn?t pay any attention when I took it out since I didn?t know that was important to know and odds are it might not have been put in right by the previous owner anyhow. I don?t see any obvious way of knowing what the front of the spring is since it?s not marked on the spring and there?s no obvious way of knowing what the front is. There is no difference in curve or bolt holes or anything I can see to figure this out. > > Anyone know how to tell what the front is or know if it matters? I figure it matters since the manual is specific about it but I don?t know why. I don?t want to get to the point of putting the vertical links, shocks, etc. back on only to find out it does matter for fitting everything back together. > > Thanks for your help. > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > From mark at bradakis.com Sun Feb 26 15:49:15 2017 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2017 15:49:15 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Racer Bud Delauer Image may contain: 2 people, people standing, drink and indoor "oh I have slipped the surly bonds of Earth and danced the skies on laughter's silvered wings" From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Sun Feb 26 15:49:39 2017 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2017 16:49:39 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Racer Bud Delauer. Spitfire Driver Passed away yesterday according to his daughter. Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From mark at bradakis.com Sun Feb 26 16:53:08 2017 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2017 16:53:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Racer Bud Delauer. Spitfire Driver References: On 02/26/2017 03:49 PM, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: > Passed away yesterday according to his daughter. > > Yes, my message was supposed to have included a picture of him and his daughter. I must have done something incorrectly. mjb. From dlhogye at comcast.net Sun Feb 26 22:19:35 2017 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2017 05:19:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Racer Bud Delauer. Spitfire Driver References: Hi Joe, I'm saddened to hear of Bud's passing. May he rest in peace. It was always a pleasure to see Bud at the track. He offered encouragement to me during my first race events at Sonoma and he shared some good on-track advice too. I will keep him in my thoughts. Dave H. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Alexander via Fot" To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 2:49:39 PM Subject: [Fot] Racer Bud Delauer. Spitfire Driver Passed away yesterday according to his daughter. Joe Alexander 645 1st Street Jesup, IA 50648 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Sun Feb 26 22:33:05 2017 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2017 22:33:05 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Racer Bud Delauer References: <0b03a482-f694-f4fd-2eb1-fa350b91b70d@bradakis.com> On 02/26/2017 03:49 PM, Mark J Bradakis via Fot wrote: > Image may contain: 2 people, people standing, drink and indoor > We'll see if this works. mjb. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: racer_bud.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 37241 bytes Desc: not available URL: From STLNYC at msn.com Mon Feb 27 09:38:20 2017 From: STLNYC at msn.com (Fred and Mary Hodgson) Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2017 16:38:20 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New crazy person! Amici- I would like to nominate Steve Downing to our list of insanity. Already a GT6 and TR3 owner, he has added a TR4 racer to his collection. E-mail is stevedowningdevelopment at gmail.com. Seconds? Fred Hodgson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Mon Feb 27 10:05:19 2017 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2017 17:05:19 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New crazy person! References: Second! From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred and Mary Hodgson via Fot Sent: Monday, February 27, 2017 10:38 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] New crazy person! Amici- Fred Hodgson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Mon Feb 27 10:07:47 2017 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2017 12:07:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] New crazy person! References: I'll second. Welcome. Cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Fred and Mary Hodgson via Fot To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, February 27, 2017 11:38 AM Subject: [Fot] New crazy person! Amici- I would like to nominate Steve Downing to our list of insanity. Already a GT6 and TR3 owner, he has added a TR4 racer to his collection. E-mail is stevedowningdevelopment at gmail.com. Seconds? Fred Hodgson ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Feb 27 10:09:35 2017 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R) Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2017 10:09:35 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Transverse Leaf Spring Orientation? References: Thanks to Paul Tegler I finally found the ground edge on the main spring so that gets mounted on the diff with the edge forward. The difference is very subtle as Triumph barely ground anything off but the other edge is decidedly sharper. I made it harder to detect by painting the spring with lubriplate to help things slide. No good deed goes unpunished. Bud Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) On Feb 26, 2017, at 1:11 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > List, > > The manual says to put the transverse leaf spring in with the front of the spring towards the front of the car. I didn?t pay any attention when I took it out since I didn?t know that was important to know and odds are it might not have been put in right by the previous owner anyhow. I don?t see any obvious way of knowing what the front of the spring is since it?s not marked on the spring and there?s no obvious way of knowing what the front is. There is no difference in curve or bolt holes or anything I can see to figure this out. > > Anyone know how to tell what the front is or know if it matters? I figure it matters since the manual is specific about it but I don?t know why. I don?t want to get to the point of putting the vertical links, shocks, etc. back on only to find out it does matter for fitting everything back together. > > Thanks for your help. > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > From fasttr4 at aol.com Mon Feb 27 15:45:13 2017 From: fasttr4 at aol.com (Bruce Lapierre) Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2017 17:45:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Transverse Leaf Spring Orientation? LOVE THE LAST COMMENT -----Original Message----- From: Bud R via Fot To: Bud Cc: FOT Sent: Mon, Feb 27, 2017 3:36 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Transverse Leaf Spring Orientation? Thanks to Paul Tegler I finally found the ground edge on the main spring so that gets mounted on the diff with the edge forward. The difference is very subtle as Triumph barely ground anything off but the other edge is decidedly sharper. I made it harder to detect by painting the spring with lubriplate to help things slide. No good deed goes unpunished. Bud Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) On Feb 26, 2017, at 1:11 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > List, > > The manual says to put the transverse leaf spring in with the front of the spring towards the front of the car. I didn?t pay any attention when I took it out since I didn?t know that was important to know and odds are it might not have been put in right by the previous owner anyhow. I don?t see any obvious way of knowing what the front of the spring is since it?s not marked on the spring and there?s no obvious way of knowing what the front is. There is no difference in curve or bolt holes or anything I can see to figure this out. > > Anyone know how to tell what the front is or know if it matters? I figure it matters since the manual is specific about it but I don?t know why. I don?t want to get to the point of putting the vertical links, shocks, etc. back on only to find out it does matter for fitting everything back together. > > Thanks for your help. > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Mon Feb 27 21:45:34 2017 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (vintagenick42 at yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 04:45:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Racer Bud References: <1939946068.3235705.1488257134913.ref@mail.yahoo.com> FOTers, Bud was quite a character. He used to race "back in the day" and for some reason he showed up at a local NorCal race back about 2000 or so (latent racer gene expressing itself?). I was still using a stock Lucas starter at the time and it had just engaged the ring gear and stuck there...I know, THAT could never happen, but why else do they have that little cover on the end with a square drive sticking out so that you could "unwind" them? So, anyway, I missed that session but Bud walked over as I was backing the starter out and when I heard the bendix fall into the bellhousing I knew what had happened...Without so much as an introduction, he grabbed some tools and we got the car in the air and the offending pieces fished out, spare starter in and "off to the races" as they say. This particular race group allowed riders during the lunch break and I took him for a ride as a thank you for his help. Thereafter I was always known as "hooksetter" as Bud then found a Spitty and was a regular at the local tracks. Bud had a group email list that he sent out almost daily, and as he said "once you're on the list, you can't get off". For those who were on the list will attest his emails usually brought a smile to those on it. Bud will be missed. Nick in NorCal -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From capitaldriving at yahoo.com Tue Feb 28 05:47:56 2017 From: capitaldriving at yahoo.com (Ed chan) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 12:47:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Flared Fiberglass TR6 Fenders from Rod Kent References: <1018347615.3379769.1488286076363.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I'm looking for a set of flared fiberglass TR6 fenders, similar to the Paul Newman/ex Group 44 car.? I saw that Rod Kent use to make/sell them.? I tried to e-mail (at rodkent at cox.net) him several times but never got a response. Does anyone know where I can get a set of these flared fiberglass fenders, how to get in touch with Rod, or anyone else how may sell have a set they would be willing to sell? I autocross my TR6 and would like to use wider wheels and tires. Thanks. Ed ChanCapitaldriving at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 1 06:03:38 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2017 14:03:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1b7feb54-9c7f-8d7e-03d8-7d628186c316@chello.nl> <532867142.104914937.1485531792988.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Not correct. E95 stands for Euro95 i.e. 95 octane rating. I caused the confusion by using E95, I should have used Euro95, sorry. Euro95 may contain up to 5% ethanol. Most have some, few have no ethanol. There is some cheaper 95 octane petrol available with up to 10% ethanol and there are some higher octane fuels. In Germany it can be as high as 103 octane. In the rest of Europe the highest is mostly 98 octane. However Euro95 is the standard petrol. Kees Oudesluijs Op 27-1-2017 om 16:43 schreef Bob Spidell: > OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% > ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From: *"Oudesluys" > *To: *"healeys" > *Sent: *Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > > presumably used E85 for years > > Should of course be E95 > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Feb 2 09:27:45 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2017 08:27:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] no Healey content, but a great car story http://petrolicious.com/apartment-find-this-ferrari-250-gt-pf-coupe-was-hidden-in-hollywood-for-decades Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Fri Feb 3 12:23:25 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2017 11:23:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> <030001d275aa$7e5adda0$7b1098e0$@rr.com> I though it was more of a reference to current events than "politics". On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 11:30 PM, Derek Job wrote: > Keep politics out of the list. > > On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 6:57 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > >> John, I think Josef's point was that (similar to one of Mr. Trump's >> "alternative facts"), 3000 M's are being claimed whereas we all know only >> 640 were originally built. >> >> That's like the 99% of all BJ8s in existence being "1967s" no matter what >> year they were built. [image: winking0001.gif] >> >> >> >> Steve Byers >> >> HBJ8L/36666 >> >> BJ8 Registry >> >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> >> Havelock, NC >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *John >> Harper >> *Sent:* Monday, January 23, 2017 11:49 AM >> *To:* josef-eckert at t-online.de >> *Cc:* Healeys, Forum >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms >> >> >> >> What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but >> not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans. >> >> >> >> John Harper >> >> >> >> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary >> >> >> >> On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de < >> josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote: >> >> Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 >> Factory 100Ms still exist.[image: cool] >> >> >> >> Josef Eckert >> >> K?nigswinter/Germany >> >> ? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Best wishes >> >> >> >> John Harper >> >> >> >> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary >> ------------------------------ >> >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13781 - Release Date: 01/16/17 >> Internal Virus Database is out of date. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 696 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Feb 3 16:43:19 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2017 15:43:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> <030001d275aa$7e5adda0$7b1098e0$@rr.com> Hiw do you parse those two? Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Feb 3, 2017 3:09 PM, "richard mayor" wrote: I though it was more of a reference to current events than "politics". On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 11:30 PM, Derek Job wrote: > Keep politics out of the list. > > On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 6:57 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > >> John, I think Josef's point was that (similar to one of Mr. Trump's >> "alternative facts"), 3000 M's are being claimed whereas we all know only >> 640 were originally built. >> >> That's like the 99% of all BJ8s in existence being "1967s" no matter what >> year they were built. [image: winking0001.gif] >> >> >> >> Steve Byers >> >> HBJ8L/36666 >> >> BJ8 Registry >> >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> >> Havelock, NC >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *John >> Harper >> *Sent:* Monday, January 23, 2017 11:49 AM >> *To:* josef-eckert at t-online.de >> *Cc:* Healeys, Forum >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms >> >> >> >> What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but >> not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans. >> >> >> >> John Harper >> >> >> >> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary >> >> >> >> On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de < >> josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote: >> >> Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 >> Factory 100Ms still exist.[image: cool] >> >> >> >> Josef Eckert >> >> K?nigswinter/Germany >> >> ? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Best wishes >> >> >> >> John Harper >> >> >> >> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary >> ------------------------------ >> >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13781 - Release Date: 01/16/17 >> Internal Virus Database is out of date. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 696 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ahbt71 at gmail.com Fri Feb 3 20:07:24 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2017 20:07:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 Hey Y'all, About ready to install and wire the dash on the BT7 and looking for ideas on how to add a couple switches without cutting any holes in the dash. I'll be installing a DW safety steering column which has no stator tube so I need homes for the indicators and the horn. Thinking a two position switch and a momentary switch. Thanks and Cheers, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sat Feb 4 02:40:16 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 09:40:16 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 References: You could make a small right-angled bracket and fasten it beneath the heater controls. You?ll be able to use the existing fasteners. I?ve done that and found, coincidentally, that others have done the same. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: 04 February 2017 03:07 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 Hey Y'all, About ready to install and wire the dash on the BT7 and looking for ideas on how to add a couple switches without cutting any holes in the dash. I'll be installing a DW safety steering column which has no stator tube so I need homes for the indicators and the horn. Thinking a two position switch and a momentary switch. Thanks and Cheers, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sat Feb 4 05:16:26 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 12:16:26 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 References: Thinking about this some more, I recall some cars that had indicator sticks on the steering wheel. They came apart and clamped on between the dash and the wheel. Maybe old Landrovers, Morris Minors, early Minis?cars like that. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: 04 February 2017 03:07 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 Hey Y'all, About ready to install and wire the dash on the BT7 and looking for ideas on how to add a couple switches without cutting any holes in the dash. I'll be installing a DW safety steering column which has no stator tube so I need homes for the indicators and the horn. Thinking a two position switch and a momentary switch. Thanks and Cheers, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sat Feb 4 13:33:28 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 10:33:28 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 References: Mike, Take a look at where I mounted my Halda Speedpilot: http://s81.photobucket.com/user/healeyrick/media/IMG_0324_zpsdc963f63.jpg.html?sort=3&o=255 It fits into an "L" shaped bracket that is secured by the two screws that hold the air controls to the bottom of the dash. You could make up a panel to fit your switches in the same fashion and maybe cover it with the same material as your dash. Holden has a nice push button horn switch that would be easier to activate than a toggle: https://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=1&pgCode=020&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Switches&agCode=0517&agName=Horn+%26+Dip+Switches&pCode=SPB160 Look around on their website, they have just about any switch you could want for an LBC Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Fri, Feb 3, 2017 at 5:07 PM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Hey Y'all, > About ready to install and wire the dash on the BT7 and looking for ideas > on how to add a couple switches without cutting any holes in the dash. > I'll be installing a DW safety steering column which has no stator tube so > I need homes for the indicators and the horn. Thinking a two position > switch and a momentary switch. > Thanks and Cheers, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rft2 at aol.com Sat Feb 4 13:48:01 2017 From: rft2 at aol.com (rft2 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 15:48:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems In an attempt to tighten up the front end on my BJ8, I've purchased reconditioned armstrong shocks for the front and back. Starting into the project, I'm already at my first challenge. On the passenger side all four bolts are upside down and when I try to loosen the bolts just spin. Reading through some articles by Norman Nock, it sounds like these bolts may have at some point come loose, striped the threads on both the bolts and shock plate, or striped off the nuts. Does anyone have suggestions on how I should proceed? Mal Hickok Richland, MI BJ8 - 1967 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From waschu2 at gmail.com Sat Feb 4 13:49:38 2017 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 15:49:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] WTB BJ8 rear end housing Hello, I have a 1967 Healey with bent rear axle tubes. While investigating an axle leak it became apparent something more serious then a bad seal or gasket was going on. At a minimum I just need the late style rear end housing, but I might be interested in a complete assembly if someone has one for sale and does not want to disassemble it. I live in Western Ct. The plan is to try and straighten mine at a later date and not have the car apart any longer then necessary. The bare housing is pretty light and can be shipped. If someone has a complete assembly and not to far from Ct. I have a truck that I could use to pick it up with. Picture are nice if you have one for sale. Thanks Wayne From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sat Feb 4 18:39:11 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 17:39:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 dip stick References: <45953923.84747847.1485368628906.JavaMail.root@shaw.ca> <00a101d27754$2dc3ca90$894b5fb0$@rr.com> Since we're on this topic, I need a BJ8 dipstick. The Moss price for one is outrageous. Does anyone have one for sale at a decent price--------or, has anyone on the list made one. I'm inclined to make my own. On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 1:44 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > It depends on which 3000 you are talking about. For BJ7 (and BJ8 engines > up to serial number 29K/RU/H278) the dipstick measures about 1/16" shy of > 11 inches from the "max" line to the bottom of the washer. BJ8 engines > 29K/RU/H279 and up are about 1/16" shy of 16 inches. > > I don't know about earlier models. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *RAYMOND > SMITHSON > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 25, 2017 1:24 PM > *To:* Healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] 3000 dip stick > > > > Can anyone tell me the distance from the stop washer to the max fill line > on a 6 cylinder engine oil dip stick? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Feb 4 21:57:47 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 23:57:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] WTB BJ8 rear end housing References: <2275145b-2920-fde4-7d12-e07d0432ddce@gmail.com> Hi Wayne, We bent a BN1 housing whilst crossing a roadside ditch in Targa Newfoundland. (Slight navigation error) The guys at the local truck garage straightened it for us using a giant press and a massive rosebud oxyacetelene torch while Michael Oritt and I watched. We were amazed at how much force it took to do the job so be prepared.... Michael S On Feb 5, 2017 3:35 PM, "Wayne" wrote: > Hello, > > I have a 1967 Healey with bent rear axle tubes. While > investigating an axle leak it became apparent something more serious then a > bad seal or gasket was going on. At a minimum I just need the late style > rear end housing, but I might be interested in a complete assembly if > someone has one for sale and does not want to disassemble it. I live in > Western Ct. The plan is to try and straighten mine at a later date and not > have the car apart any longer then necessary. The bare housing is pretty > light and can be shipped. If someone has a complete assembly and not to > far from Ct. I have a truck that I could use to pick it up with. Picture > are nice if you have one for sale. > > Thanks > Wayne > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun Feb 5 12:18:53 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2017 11:18:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems References: <15a0ae2369e-3342-7a78@webprd-m43.mail.aol.com> How can the bolts be upside down? Please describe it better so we can help. On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 12:48 PM, wrote: > In an attempt to tighten up the front end on my BJ8, I've purchased > reconditioned armstrong shocks for the front and back. Starting into the > project, I'm already at my first challenge. On the passenger side all four > bolts are upside down and when I try to loosen the bolts just spin. > > Reading through some articles by Norman Nock, it sounds like these bolts > may have at some point come loose, striped the threads on both the bolts > and shock plate, or striped off the nuts. > > Does anyone have suggestions on how I should proceed? > > *Mal Hickok* > *Richland, MI* > *BJ8 - 1967* > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Sun Feb 5 14:31:39 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2017 16:31:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 References: Hi Mike: I had a similar situation when I bought my now departed BT-7? The prior owner had replaced the stock steering wheel with a very nice Moto-Lita, but was not able to mount the trafficator, since the hub was different. The outcome was the car lacked the stock horn and turn signal in their usual places. Their solution for both was to use what looked like existing holes in the dash. One appeared to be a bolt hole in the center of the dash, up high just under the dash pad. The other was above the package shelf, and appeared to be where a cigarette lighter would have been. As others have mentioned, you could also fabricate a small bracket for under dash to hold the controls. While either approach would work, I believe there are additional considerations: I found driving the car this way distracting, as the reflex is to reach where the controls are usually located. The result was poor for both: - Turn signal operation required me to take my eyes off the road to locate and operate the turn signal indicator. Not the worst thing, but I was VERY relieved when I was later able to have the hub milled and install the trafficator! With the controls back where one would expect them to be, I could concentrate on all the things attendant to turning, like traffic coming up behind me [who may or may not have noticed my petite rear lights], oncoming traffic, pedestrians, traffic in the place I would be turning into, etc. ? - Horn operation also required looking away from the road to home in on the small horn button over on the dash. This was more of a problem, as there was usually something relatively urgent happening when I found the need to blow the horn at someone. In fact, the first couple of times I needed the horn, it was because someone had changed lanes and didn?t see my ?little? car there! In those cases, my reflex was to mash down on the button in the middle of the steering wheel ? which of course did nothing, as it wasn?t wired up! After the initial non-response, I was reminded that I needed to look for the horn button on the dash, and operate it there. I found this a safety issue, and dealt with it right away. I recognize that most of this doesn?t help you locate your turn signal and horn, but I do hope it gives you something to think about as you do so. It looks like the DW steering column does represent a safety improvement for the head-on crash, but it also looks like something designed for racing, and not street use. I looked, but did not find anything on their site that suggests a viable solution ? just a note that you will need to relocate the signals. Maybe the hot-rod crown have something you can use? Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: Friday, February 3, 2017 10:07 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 Hey Y'all, About ready to install and wire the dash on the BT7 and looking for ideas on how to add a couple switches without cutting any holes in the dash. I'll be installing a DW safety steering column which has no stator tube so I need homes for the indicators and the horn. Thinking a two position switch and a momentary switch. Thanks and Cheers, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Feb 5 18:38:37 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2017 20:38:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] WTB BJ8 rear end housing References: <2275145b-2920-fde4-7d12-e07d0432ddce@gmail.com> Happy to Ira. This the video of what it is like to run a Targa "stage" in Newfoundland. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2006/12/23/wanna-run-a-targa-stage/ And this is the post about our "off road" excursion that resulted in the bent axle casing. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/12/26/quest-for-gold-targa-newfoundland-2007/ Michael S On Sun, Feb 5, 2017 at 8:28 PM, i erbs wrote: > you should repost the link to the video of the Targa that year. The race > is on my bucket list to watch. Can't imaging what its like to race it. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 8:57 PM, Michael Salter > wrote: > >> Hi Wayne, >> We bent a BN1 housing whilst crossing a roadside ditch in Targa >> Newfoundland. (Slight navigation error) >> The guys at the local truck garage straightened it for us using a giant >> press and a massive rosebud oxyacetelene torch while Michael Oritt and I >> watched. We were amazed at how much force it took to do the job so be >> prepared.... >> Michael S >> >> On Feb 5, 2017 3:35 PM, "Wayne" wrote: >> >>> Hello, >>> >>> I have a 1967 Healey with bent rear axle tubes. While >>> investigating an axle leak it became apparent something more serious then a >>> bad seal or gasket was going on. At a minimum I just need the late style >>> rear end housing, but I might be interested in a complete assembly if >>> someone has one for sale and does not want to disassemble it. I live in >>> Western Ct. The plan is to try and straighten mine at a later date and not >>> have the car apart any longer then necessary. The bare housing is pretty >>> light and can be shipped. If someone has a complete assembly and not to >>> far from Ct. I have a truck that I could use to pick it up with. Picture >>> are nice if you have one for sale. >>> >>> Thanks >>> Wayne >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> >> > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bengaard at 850r.dk Sun Feb 5 23:42:55 2017 From: bengaard at 850r.dk (Niels Bengaard) Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2017 07:42:55 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems References: <15a0ae2369e-3342-7a78@webprd-m43.mail.aol.com> Here is what I did on my BJ8. It?s nuts that?s welded under the plate, not bolts. On my car one nut was loose, got it welded back in place with not too many problems. Also several threads were bad, fixed them with a heli coil set. Today I would probably remove the plate and weld 4 new nuts below. There is not much room to work on with that heli coil set. Watch pictures on the link below: http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Front%20Suspension/index.html# Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] P? vegne af richard mayor Sendt: 5. februar 2017 20:19 Til: healeys Emne: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems How can the bolts be upside down? Please describe it better so we can help. On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 12:48 PM, wrote: In an attempt to tighten up the front end on my BJ8, I've purchased reconditioned armstrong shocks for the front and back. Starting into the project, I'm already at my first challenge. On the passenger side all four bolts are upside down and when I try to loosen the bolts just spin. Reading through some articles by Norman Nock, it sounds like these bolts may have at some point come loose, striped the threads on both the bolts and shock plate, or striped off the nuts. Does anyone have suggestions on how I should proceed? Mal Hickok Richland, MI BJ8 - 1967 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rft2 at aol.com Mon Feb 6 14:30:26 2017 From: rft2 at aol.com (rft2 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2017 16:30:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems Hi Niels, these pictures will be very helpful. My plan is to order a replacement shock plate from Moss, cut off the existing plate and weld in the new plate, then install rebuilt shocks from Worldwide. More than I had planned for, but you pictures will help guide me thru the process. Thanks again. Mal Hickok BJ7 & BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Niels Bengaard To: 'healeys' Sent: Mon, Feb 6, 2017 2:33 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems Here is what I did on my BJ8. It?s nuts that?s welded under the plate, not bolts. On my car one nut was loose, got it welded back in place with not too many problems. Also several threads were bad, fixed them with a heli coil set. Today I would probably remove the plate and weld 4 new nuts below. There is not much room to work on with that heli coil set. Watch pictures on the link below: http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Front%20Suspension/index.html# Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] P? vegne af richard mayor Sendt: 5. februar 2017 20:19 Til: healeys Emne: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems How can the bolts be upside down? Please describe it better so we can help. On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 12:48 PM, wrote: In an attempt to tighten up the front end on my BJ8, I've purchased reconditioned armstrong shocks for the front and back. Starting into the project, I'm already at my first challenge. On the passenger side all four bolts are upside down and when I try to loosen the bolts just spin. Reading through some articles by Norman Nock, it sounds like these bolts may have at some point come loose, striped the threads on both the bolts and shock plate, or striped off the nuts. Does anyone have suggestions on how I should proceed? Mal Hickok Richland, MI BJ8 - 1967 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon Feb 6 15:03:18 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2017 12:03:18 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems References: <15a0ae2369e-3342-7a78@webprd-m43.mail.aol.com> <000001d28044$3f6857e0$be3907a0$@dk> Moss sells new mounting plates, (items 40 and 41 here: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28943#top) but replacing them and getting everything aligned properly is a bit of a job: http://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/tbah01.html Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Sun, Feb 5, 2017 at 8:42 PM, Niels Bengaard wrote: > Here is what I did on my BJ8. It?s nuts that?s welded under the plate, not > bolts. On my car one nut was loose, got it welded back in place with not > too many problems. > > Also several threads were bad, fixed them with a heli coil set. > > Today I would probably remove the plate and weld 4 new nuts below. There > is not much room to work on with that heli coil set. > > Watch pictures on the link below: > > > > http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Front% > 20Suspension/index.html# > > > > *Fra:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *P? vegne af *richard > mayor > *Sendt:* 5. februar 2017 20:19 > *Til:* healeys > *Emne:* Re: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems > > > > How can the bolts be upside down? Please describe it better so we can > help. > > > > On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 12:48 PM, wrote: > > In an attempt to tighten up the front end on my BJ8, I've purchased > reconditioned armstrong shocks for the front and back. Starting into the > project, I'm already at my first challenge. On the passenger side all four > bolts are upside down and when I try to loosen the bolts just spin. > > > > Reading through some articles by Norman Nock, it sounds like these bolts > may have at some point come loose, striped the threads on both the bolts > and shock plate, or striped off the nuts. > > > > Does anyone have suggestions on how I should proceed? > > *Mal Hickok* > > *Richland, MI* > > *BJ8 - 1967* > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Mon Feb 6 21:55:48 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 14:55:48 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber G'day all I'm looking for a horizontal float chamber for an SU HD6 carb. They are mostly angled for semi-downdraft applications, but I need one for a horizontal application on a Shorrock supercharger. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Holden V6 MG TC special (Shorrock blown) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Blower7.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3279368 bytes Desc: not available URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Tue Feb 7 11:42:19 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2017 10:42:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?SU_HD6_float_chamber?= Peter, I can say from experience, the float bowl from the HD8 is the same as HD6, as I have horizontal HD8s on my DMD manifold. I bought mine from Joe Curto here in the US. The bowls from a Jag will work, as they're all horizontal. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit >>> Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 14:55:48 +1000 From: "Peter & Veronica" To: Subject: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber G'day all I'm looking for a horizontal float chamber for an SU HD6 carb. They are mostly angled for semi-downdraft applications, but I need one for a horizontal application on a Shorrock supercharger. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Holden V6 MG TC special (Shorrock blown) From steveg at abrazosdata.com Tue Feb 7 11:49:14 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2017 10:49:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?BJ8_Shock_Problems?= Tom's Import Toys sells handy replacement plates for $99.50 the pair: http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1 These should be stronger than the Moss captive nuts. You open up the end of the shock tower, knock out the captive nuts and slide the plate in. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From molony at dodo.com.au Tue Feb 7 15:06:08 2017 From: molony at dodo.com.au (Graeme Molony) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 09:06:08 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber References: Peter If all else fails I think I have a spare pair of horizontal float chambers from a set of Jaguar HD8?s that I had converted happy to part with them for the freight costs but you can probably find units closer to home at a Jaguar Wreckers Graeme J Molony Mt. Martha Vic 3934 From: Peter & Veronica Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 3:55 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber G'day all I'm looking for a horizontal float chamber for an SU HD6 carb. They are mostly angled for semi-downdraft applications, but I need one for a horizontal application on a Shorrock supercharger. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Holden V6 MG TC special (Shorrock blown) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rft2 at aol.com Tue Feb 7 15:15:22 2017 From: rft2 at aol.com (rft2 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 17:15:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems References: <20170207184914.31370.qmail@hoster902.com> Hi Steve, This is an interesting solution. Just called Tom and looked at the link you sent me, ordered a couple of plates and will try this method. Looks like it should work, I'll let you know. Thank you for this idea. Mal Hickok BJ7 & BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Steve B. Gerow To: healeys Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2017 2:57 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems Tom's Import Toys sells handy replacement plates for $99.50 the pair: http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1 These should be stronger than the Moss captive nuts. You open up the end of the shock tower, knock out the captive nuts and slide the plate in. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Feb 7 16:46:06 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 15:46:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Feb 7 20:19:32 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (rrengineer.mike) Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2017 19:19:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Just ordered a case of this stuff. www.classiccarmotoroil.com. $80 delivered for a case of 12 quarts. ?1600 PPM ZDDP.Mike MacLean Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Bob Spidell Date: 2/7/17 3:46 PM (GMT-08:00) To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available.? My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Feb 7 22:51:33 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 21:51:33 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil References: The link takes me to a page where the only choice is to order 15W-40 ?Classic? brand motor oil with 1,600 ppm zinc. Not VR1 racing oil. Found some VR1 sources for $7 buck or so and up to $18/quart. Glad I bought the local supply out months ago. No doubt the availability is due to some EPA or BAAQMD regulation. The latter is the California equivalent to the EPA. John Spaur Sitting a few cases of black gold and loving it! From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rrengineer.mike Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 7:20 PM To: Bob Spidell ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Just ordered a case of this stuff. www.classiccarmotoroil.com . $80 delivered for a case of 12 quarts. 1600 PPM ZDDP. Mike MacLean Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- Date: 2/7/17 3:46 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Feb 8 05:43:32 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 07:43:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Wed Feb 8 06:15:51 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 8:15:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Interesting----Several years ago, an auto parts place here in Pa told me the same story----but---wasn't true. Where he got that info , who knows. I get it in most autoparts place. Have been using it for a long time. tom ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Feb 8 06:55:45 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 05:55:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> Most likely someone found a BT7 vin plate and screwed it to this fright wig of a car. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Feb 8, 2017 5:33 AM, "BJ8Healeys" wrote: > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Wed Feb 8 07:41:17 2017 From: schottc at knology.net (Charlie Schott) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 08:41:17 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil References: <20170208081551.UUOD9.1888.root@pamxwww11-z01> I was told the same thing at AutoZone here in Florida and when I inquired at their headquarters, they told me that they're only selling the 20W 50 weight and it is now located in their motorcycle and ATV section. I got 2 cases from ebay at $6.50 a quart and free shipping. Regards, Charlie Schott -----Original Message----- From: Tom Felts Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:15 AM To: Bob Spidell ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Interesting----Several years ago, an auto parts place here in Pa told me the same story----but---wasn't true. Where he got that info , who knows. I get it in most autoparts place. Have been using it for a long time. tom ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net From al at bighealey.org Wed Feb 8 08:12:01 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:12:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> Steve: While I no longer have my BT-7, the place where the top frame assembly fits on this car looks familiar. On the other hand, it also looks like it has the mounting plate for a later style convertible top. Is this a clue? Also as regards your comment regarding major structural modification: it appears the entire long frame rails have been patched or replaced for most of their lengths, as evidenced by the lack of weld beads, as well as the new beads where they were welded in. is the frame work another clue? Al Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 7:44 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From RCT2BNC at aol.com Wed Feb 8 08:17:59 2017 From: RCT2BNC at aol.com (RCT2BNC at aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:17:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Bob, I order mine from Amazon when my local suppliers' shelves are empty. Price is competitive with the auto-parts stores (if you have Prime and don't pay for shipping). Maybe you could try this route in California. I also use single-weight 40, 50 and 60 VR1 sometimes. Ben Cohen BN1, BN7, BJ8 In a message dated 2/7/2017 6:54:50 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, bspidell at comcast.net writes: Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rct2bnc at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Wed Feb 8 08:32:31 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 15:32:31 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> Steve, Looking at the photos, it appears that the chassis is indeed from a BJ7 or BJ8, at least the "B" posts have the holes for the door latch from a BJ8. However the door hinges are from an earlier model for sure as the later cars had the square plates against the "A" posts from what I recall. The front shroud of a BJ8 is quite different at the windshield so the front shroud of a BT7 would not work for a BJ7/BJ8 from what I know. I think as you indicated they simply used a BT7 Serial number. It certainly appears that they are trying to get rid of some of their parts accumulated over the years and they had enough for one car. Dealers such as that place could not care less as long as there is money for them in the end. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys Sent: February 8, 2017 12:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 | Beverly Hills Car Club www.beverlyhillscarclub.com Classic Car Dealership - European Classic Cars & American Autos. Mercedes, Jaguar, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari, Austin Healey & more. We Buy & Sell Classic Cars. Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Wed Feb 8 08:38:49 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 07:38:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil References: <0753458a-70c6-2d36-0322-0a1df1eec0e4@comcast.net> I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they have it. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com From bengaard at 850r.dk Wed Feb 8 08:50:56 2017 From: bengaard at 850r.dk (Niels Bengaard) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 16:50:56 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems References: <20170207184914.31370.qmail@hoster902.com> <15a1aa543e6-416d-116d6@webprd-m12.mail.aol.com> The only bad thing about replacing is that you lose the original VIN number stamped into the side of the right side plate. It might be difficult to spot, but after removing the paint it was visible on my car. Niels Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] P? vegne af rft2 at aol.com Sendt: 7. februar 2017 23:15 Til: steveg at abrazosdata.com; healeys at autox.team.net Emne: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems Hi Steve, This is an interesting solution. Just called Tom and looked at the link you sent me, ordered a couple of plates and will try this method. Looks like it should work, I'll let you know. Thank you for this idea. Mal Hickok BJ7 & BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Steve B. Gerow To: healeys Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2017 2:57 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems Tom's Import Toys sells handy replacement plates for $99.50 the pair: http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30 &new=1 These should be stronger than the Moss captive nuts. You open up the end of the shock tower, knock out the captive nuts and slide the plate in. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Feb 8 08:54:56 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:54:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> Thanks for your thoughts, Jean. The door hinges are from a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. All of the body parts I see in the photos are BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. Some photos show "spare parts", including what appears to be an armrest and shreds of original red carpet from a BT7, along with a pre-BJ8 speedometer. I am not familiar enough with pre-BJ8 models to say whether the convertible windshield and doors would fit on a BT7, but I think they would not. Perhaps the VIN plate on the firewall belongs to those BT7 "spare parts". I think it more likely that someone had a Phase 1 BJ8 and put a BT7 VIN plate on the firewall than that they tried to make a BJ8 out of a BT7. In that case, why keep the BT7 VIN plate? As far as I know, BHCC just sells the cars they buy on to someone else and don't restore or repair them. I wouldn't think they would be assembling a car from miscellaneous parts. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Jean Caron [mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 10:33 AM To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Steve, Looking at the photos, it appears that the chassis is indeed from a BJ7 or BJ8, at least the "B" posts have the holes for the door latch from a BJ8. However the door hinges are from an earlier model for sure as the later cars had the square plates against the "A" posts from what I recall. The front shroud of a BJ8 is quite different at the windshield so the front shroud of a BT7 would not work for a BJ7/BJ8 from what I know. I think as you indicated they simply used a BT7 Serial number. It certainly appears that they are trying to get rid of some of their parts accumulated over the years and they had enough for one car. Dealers such as that place could not care less as long as there is money for them in the end. Jean _____ From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys Sent: February 8, 2017 12:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 | Beverly Hills Car Club www.beverlyhillscarclub.com Classic Car Dealership - European Classic Cars & American Autos. Mercedes, Jaguar, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari, Austin Healey & more. We Buy & Sell Classic Cars. Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13907 - Release Date: 02/07/17 No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13908 - Release Date: 02/07/17 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Wed Feb 8 10:22:52 2017 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 09:22:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> <01bd01d2821d$b3c91d10$1b5b5730$@bighealey.org> This car looks like a pile of parts that got put together to make up a car. The rear shroud is BJ7, Phase 1 BJ8 Carbs are BJ7 Doors are BJ8 Dash is a BJ8 Front shroud BJ7 , Phase 1 BJ8 Vent windows are BJ8 Frame cut out for the exhaust is BJ8 late Also notice that there are no front springs or plates, the rear end is not attached., the frame is CRAP David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Al Fuller Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:12 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Steve: While I no longer have my BT-7, the place where the top frame assembly fits on this car looks familiar? On the other hand, it also looks like it has the mounting plate for a later style convertible top. Is this a clue? Also as regards your comment regarding major structural modification: it appears the entire long frame rails have been patched or replaced for most of their lengths, as evidenced by the lack of weld beads, as well as the new beads where they were welded in. is the frame work another clue? Al Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 7:44 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Wed Feb 8 11:08:21 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 08:08:21 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> Steve, To your original question, I think it would be possible, but you'd also have to change the rear shroud as well to get the chrome door top finisher to match the small chrome finisher on the shroud. Much easier to jack up the VIN of the BT7 and drive a BJ8 under it. BTW, BHCC has a search function that says "Find the car of your dreams" Obviously, it was broken for this one. Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 2:43 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Feb 8 12:44:26 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 14:44:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> Hi Steve, To answer your question.... This issue was raised in conjunction with the '63 Sebring cars which have convertible windshields and sidescreens. Such a modification would require fairly major structural modifications. The upper panel of the front bulkhead would need to be replaced to accommodate the longer rear part of the convertible shroud. The convertible front shroud would be required to provide the correct profile of "gutter" for the curved windshield. The front door posts would have to be changed to accommodate the convertible doors which have to swing away from the windshield to prevent interference when opened and closed. The rear door posts have to be replaced with the wider ones to accommodate the thicker doors. Of course all sorts of "fudging " could be done but there would have to be compromises. Michael S BN1 #174 On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 7:43 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drmasucci at comcast.net Wed Feb 8 13:21:41 2017 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 15:21:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil References: <0753458a-70c6-2d36-0322-0a1df1eec0e4@comcast.net> <032a01d28221$7212c4d0$56384e70$@roadrunner.com> Are you guys referring to the full synthetic, or the conventional version of this oil! Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 8, 2017, at 10:38 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they > have it. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as > do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a > while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says > it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. > > AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drmasucci at comcast.net > From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Feb 8 13:30:35 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 20:30:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil References: <0753458a-70c6-2d36-0322-0a1df1eec0e4@comcast.net> <032a01d28221$7212c4d0$56384e70$@roadrunner.com> <96AD7407-62EB-4FB6-BD6B-93EBF1CC7673@comcast.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Feb 8 16:29:24 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 15:29:24 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil References: <0753458a-70c6-2d36-0322-0a1df1eec0e4@comcast.net> <032a01d28221$7212c4d0$56384e70$@roadrunner.com> <96AD7407-62EB-4FB6-BD6B-93EBF1CC7673@comcast.net> Well, my local parts house--the same one that pulled it off the shelf a year or so ago--now has its back on the shelf for ~$7/qt. It appears this was a bureaucratic overreaction/SNAFU to some regulations that may or may not have had an effect, or maybe Valvoline changed the formulation to comply. bs On 2/8/2017 12:21 PM, David Masucci wrote: > Are you guys referring to the full synthetic, or the conventional version of this oil! > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Feb 8, 2017, at 10:38 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: >> >> I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they >> have it. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> Spidell >> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil >> >> Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it >> supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as >> do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a >> while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says >> it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. >> >> AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' >> >> Bob >> >> > From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Wed Feb 8 16:31:53 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 10:31:53 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> G?day The three ?63 Sebring cars were all BJ7s. The spare car (57 FAC) was sold to Austin Canada afterwards and was raced in that country. It took quite some time to work out its history and that wasn?t helped by Austin Canada in period using photos of an earlier BN7 Mk2 in its advertising campaign promoting the success of 57 FAC. BTW 57 FAC is now in Australia. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Thursday, 9 February 2017 6:44 AM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Hi Steve, To answer your question.... This issue was raised in conjunction with the '63 Sebring cars which have convertible windshields and sidescreens. Such a modification would require fairly major structural modifications. The upper panel of the front bulkhead would need to be replaced to accommodate the longer rear part of the convertible shroud. The convertible front shroud would be required to provide the correct profile of "gutter" for the curved windshield. The front door posts would have to be changed to accommodate the convertible doors which have to swing away from the windshield to prevent interference when opened and closed. The rear door posts have to be replaced with the wider ones to accommodate the thicker doors. Of course all sorts of "fudging " could be done but there would have to be compromises. Michael S BN1 #174 On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 7:43 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmcharris at hotmail.com Wed Feb 8 19:27:27 2017 From: gmcharris at hotmail.com (george mcharris) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 02:27:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Valvolene Oil References: I have been using VR1 20/50 with ZDDP for quite a while. Buy on line at ruralking.com at about five bucks...sometimes cheaper. Summit Racing has many other weights up to 50 at about eight bucks. George McHarris ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 11:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 45 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: SU HD6 float chamber (Graeme Molony) 2. Re: BJ8 Shock Problems (rft2 at aol.com) 3. Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Bob Spidell) 4. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (rrengineer.mike) 5. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (John Spaur) 6. BT7 --> BJ8? (BJ8Healeys) 7. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Tom Felts) 8. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (i erbs) 9. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Charlie Schott) 10. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (Al Fuller) 11. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (RCT2BNC at aol.com) 12. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (Jean Caron) 13. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Bruce Steele) 14. Re: BJ8 Shock Problems (Niels Bengaard) 15. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (BJ8Healeys) 16. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (David Nock) 17. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (HealeyRick) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 09:06:08 +1100 From: "Graeme Molony" To: "Peter & Veronica" , Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber Peter If all else fails I think I have a spare pair of horizontal float chambers from a set of Jaguar HD8?s that I had converted happy to part with them for the freight costs but you can probably find units closer to home at a Jaguar Wreckers Graeme J Molony Mt. Martha Vic 3934 From: Peter & Veronica Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 3:55 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber G'day all I'm looking for a horizontal float chamber for an SU HD6 carb. They are mostly angled for semi-downdraft applications, but I need one for a horizontal application on a Shorrock supercharger. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Holden V6 MG TC special (Shorrock blown) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Mail Archives - Team.Net www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 17:15:22 -0500 From: rft2 at aol.com To: steveg at abrazosdata.com, healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems Hi Steve, This is an interesting solution. Just called Tom and looked at the link you sent me, ordered a couple of plates and will try this method. Looks like it should work, I'll let you know. Thank you for this idea. Mal Hickok BJ7 & BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Steve B. Gerow To: healeys Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2017 2:57 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems Tom's Import Toys sells handy replacement plates for $99.50 the pair: http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1 These should be stronger than the Moss captive nuts. You open up the end of the shock tower, knock out the captive nuts and slide the plate in. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Mail Archives - Team.Net www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 15:46:06 -0800 From: Bob Spidell To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2017 19:19:32 -0800 From: "rrengineer.mike" To: Bob Spidell , Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Just ordered a case of this stuff. www.classiccarmotoroil.com. $80 delivered for a case of 12 quarts. ?1600 PPM ZDDP.Mike MacLean Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Bob Spidell Date: 2/7/17 3:46 PM (GMT-08:00) To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available.? My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 21:51:33 -0800 From: "John Spaur" To: "'rrengineer.mike'" , "'Bob Spidell'" , "'Healeys'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil The link takes me to a page where the only choice is to order 15W-40 ?Classic? brand motor oil with 1,600 ppm zinc. Not VR1 racing oil. Found some VR1 sources for $7 buck or so and up to $18/quart. Glad I bought the local supply out months ago. No doubt the availability is due to some EPA or BAAQMD regulation. The latter is the California equivalent to the EPA. John Spaur Sitting a few cases of black gold and loving it! From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rrengineer.mike Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 7:20 PM To: Bob Spidell ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Just ordered a case of this stuff. www.classiccarmotoroil.com . $80 delivered for a case of 12 quarts. 1600 PPM ZDDP. Mike MacLean Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- Date: 2/7/17 3:46 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 07:43:32 -0500 From: "BJ8Healeys" To: Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 8:15:51 -0500 From: Tom Felts To: Bob Spidell , Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Interesting----Several years ago, an auto parts place here in Pa told me the same story----but---wasn't true. Where he got that info , who knows. I get it in most autoparts place. Have been using it for a long time. tom ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 05:55:45 -0800 From: i erbs To: BJ8 Healeys Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Message-ID: Most likely someone found a BT7 vin plate and screwed it to this fright wig of a car. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Feb 8, 2017 5:33 AM, "BJ8Healeys" wrote: > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 08:41:17 -0600 From: "Charlie Schott" To: "Tom Felts" , "Bob Spidell" , "Healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil reply-type=original I was told the same thing at AutoZone here in Florida and when I inquired at their headquarters, they told me that they're only selling the 20W 50 weight and it is now located in their motorcycle and ATV section. I got 2 cases from ebay at $6.50 a quart and free shipping. Regards, Charlie Schott -----Original Message----- From: Tom Felts Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:15 AM To: Bob Spidell ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Interesting----Several years ago, an auto parts place here in Pa told me the same story----but---wasn't true. Where he got that info , who knows. I get it in most autoparts place. Have been using it for a long time. tom ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:12:01 -0500 From: "Al Fuller" To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Steve: While I no longer have my BT-7, the place where the top frame assembly fits on this car looks familiar. On the other hand, it also looks like it has the mounting plate for a later style convertible top. Is this a clue? Also as regards your comment regarding major structural modification: it appears the entire long frame rails have been patched or replaced for most of their lengths, as evidenced by the lack of weld beads, as well as the new beads where they were welded in. is the frame work another clue? Al Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 7:44 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:17:59 -0500 From: RCT2BNC at aol.com To: bspidell at comcast.net, healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Bob, I order mine from Amazon when my local suppliers' shelves are empty. Price is competitive with the auto-parts stores (if you have Prime and don't pay for shipping). Maybe you could try this route in California. I also use single-weight 40, 50 and 60 VR1 sometimes. Ben Cohen BN1, BN7, BJ8 In a message dated 2/7/2017 6:54:50 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, bspidell at comcast.net writes: Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rct2bnc at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 15:32:31 +0000 From: Jean Caron To: BJ8Healeys , "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Message-ID: Steve, Looking at the photos, it appears that the chassis is indeed from a BJ7 or BJ8, at least the "B" posts have the holes for the door latch from a BJ8. However the door hinges are from an earlier model for sure as the later cars had the square plates against the "A" posts from what I recall. The front shroud of a BJ8 is quite different at the windshield so the front shroud of a BT7 would not work for a BJ7/BJ8 from what I know. I think as you indicated they simply used a BT7 Serial number. It certainly appears that they are trying to get rid of some of their parts accumulated over the years and they had enough for one car. Dealers such as that place could not care less as long as there is money for them in the end. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys Sent: February 8, 2017 12:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 | Beverly Hills Car Club www.beverlyhillscarclub.com Classic Car Dealership - European Classic Cars & American Autos. Mercedes, Jaguar, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari, Austin Healey & more. We Buy & Sell Classic Cars. Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 07:38:49 -0800 From: "Bruce Steele" To: "'Bob Spidell'" , "'Healeys'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they have it. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 16:50:56 +0100 From: "Niels Bengaard" To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems The only bad thing about replacing is that you lose the original VIN number stamped into the side of the right side plate. It might be difficult to spot, but after removing the paint it was visible on my car. Niels Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] P? vegne af rft2 at aol.com Sendt: 7. februar 2017 23:15 Til: steveg at abrazosdata.com; healeys at autox.team.net Emne: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems Hi Steve, This is an interesting solution. Just called Tom and looked at the link you sent me, ordered a couple of plates and will try this method. Looks like it should work, I'll let you know. Thank you for this idea. Mal Hickok BJ7 & BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Steve B. Gerow To: healeys Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2017 2:57 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems Tom's Import Toys sells handy replacement plates for $99.50 the pair: http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30 &new=1 These should be stronger than the Moss captive nuts. You open up the end of the shock tower, knock out the captive nuts and slide the plate in. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:54:56 -0500 From: "BJ8Healeys" To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Thanks for your thoughts, Jean. The door hinges are from a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. All of the body parts I see in the photos are BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. Some photos show "spare parts", including what appears to be an armrest and shreds of original red carpet from a BT7, along with a pre-BJ8 speedometer. I am not familiar enough with pre-BJ8 models to say whether the convertible windshield and doors would fit on a BT7, but I think they would not. Perhaps the VIN plate on the firewall belongs to those BT7 "spare parts". I think it more likely that someone had a Phase 1 BJ8 and put a BT7 VIN plate on the firewall than that they tried to make a BJ8 out of a BT7. In that case, why keep the BT7 VIN plate? As far as I know, BHCC just sells the cars they buy on to someone else and don't restore or repair them. I wouldn't think they would be assembling a car from miscellaneous parts. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Jean Caron [mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 10:33 AM To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Steve, Looking at the photos, it appears that the chassis is indeed from a BJ7 or BJ8, at least the "B" posts have the holes for the door latch from a BJ8. However the door hinges are from an earlier model for sure as the later cars had the square plates against the "A" posts from what I recall. The front shroud of a BJ8 is quite different at the windshield so the front shroud of a BT7 would not work for a BJ7/BJ8 from what I know. I think as you indicated they simply used a BT7 Serial number. It certainly appears that they are trying to get rid of some of their parts accumulated over the years and they had enough for one car. Dealers such as that place could not care less as long as there is money for them in the end. Jean _____ From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys Sent: February 8, 2017 12:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 | Beverly Hills Car Club www.beverlyhillscarclub.com Classic Car Dealership - European Classic Cars & American Autos. Mercedes, Jaguar, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari, Austin Healey & more. We Buy & Sell Classic Cars. Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13907 - Release Date: 02/07/17 No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13908 - Release Date: 02/07/17 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 09:22:52 -0800 From: "David Nock" To: "Al Fuller" , Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? This car looks like a pile of parts that got put together to make up a car. The rear shroud is BJ7, Phase 1 BJ8 Carbs are BJ7 Doors are BJ8 Dash is a BJ8 Front shroud BJ7 , Phase 1 BJ8 Vent windows are BJ8 Frame cut out for the exhaust is BJ8 late Also notice that there are no front springs or plates, the rear end is not attached., the frame is CRAP David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Al Fuller Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:12 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Steve: While I no longer have my BT-7, the place where the top frame assembly fits on this car looks familiar? On the other hand, it also looks like it has the mounting plate for a later style convertible top. Is this a clue? Also as regards your comment regarding major structural modification: it appears the entire long frame rails have been patched or replaced for most of their lengths, as evidenced by the lack of weld beads, as well as the new beads where they were welded in. is the frame work another clue? Al Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 7:44 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 08:08:21 -1000 From: HealeyRick To: BJ8Healeys Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Message-ID: Steve, To your original question, I think it would be possible, but you'd also have to change the rear shroud as well to get the chrome door top finisher to match the small chrome finisher on the shroud. Much easier to jack up the VIN of the BT7 and drive a BJ8 under it. BTW, BHCC has a search function that says "Find the car of your dreams" Obviously, it was broken for this one. Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 2:43 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 45 *************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 8 20:29:04 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 11:29:04 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> I suspect the car wast put together from a couple of wreckers, probably a frame from a BT7 matched with good body parts from a BJ7/early BJ8 - hence the mismatch on the door hinges. The frame rail bottoms looks like hell, were plates simply welded over them? On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 8:43 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Feb 8 20:59:53 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 19:59:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Car value. Are they idiots? I received a $1,000 offer to purchase and scrape my fully restored 1962 BT7. Review the attachment. John Spaur -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BAAQMD.PDF Type: application/pdf Size: 87474 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Feb 9 01:03:04 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 08:03:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Car value. Are they idiots? References: <000001d28288$f8c52b00$ea4f8100$@sbcglobal.net> To be John, the letter says if your car is a classic or otherwise valuable to you to disregard the letter.Mike MacLean On Wednesday, February 8, 2017 11:19 PM, John Spaur wrote: I received a $1,000 offer to purchase and scrape my fully restored 1962 BT7. Review the attachment. ?John Spaur _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Thu Feb 9 01:19:43 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 08:19:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Car value. Are they idiots? References: <000001d28288$f8c52b00$ea4f8100$@sbcglobal.net> Be fair John... they do ask you to ignor the letter if your car is a classic or of special value to you!!! Many people with a clapped out Chevette? would probably be happy to get a grand for it. Michael S BN1 #174 On Thu, Feb 9, 2017 at 8:00 PM +1300, "John Spaur" wrote: I received a $1,000 offer to purchase and scrape my fully restored 1962 BT7. Review the attachment. ? John Spaur -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Feb 9 02:23:39 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 17:23:39 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Car value. Are they idiots? References: <000001d28288$f8c52b00$ea4f8100$@sbcglobal.net> <312365556.1066861.1486627384561@mail.yahoo.com> Actually, the sheer lunacy of it is if you study CO2 impacts, the CO2 impact of buying a new car far outweighs driving your old polluter, as new cars require a huge amount of energy to produce. So it's better to keep driving an old beater if you really care about global warming. On Thu, Feb 9, 2017 at 4:03 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > To be John, the letter says if your car is a classic or otherwise valuable > to you to disregard the letter. > Mike MacLean > > > On Wednesday, February 8, 2017 11:19 PM, John Spaur < > jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > > I received a $1,000 offer to purchase and scrape my fully restored 1962 > BT7. Review the attachment. > > John Spaur > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Feb 9 08:42:27 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 07:42:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Car value. Are they idiots? References: <000001d28288$f8c52b00$ea4f8100$@sbcglobal.net> I've seen your car, John; I'll give you $1,100. Just kidding. John's car is beautiful. Bob ps. I got that letter, too. On 2/8/2017 7:59 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > I received a $1,000 offer to purchase and scrape my fully restored > 1962 BT7. Review the attachment. > > John Spaur > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Thu Feb 9 08:55:00 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 10:55:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Or maybe you are fabricating a wholly unsubstantiated scenario to fit with your own personal beliefs & prejudices? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Cc: Healeys Sent: Thu, Feb 9, 2017 9:33 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Well, my local parts house--the same one that pulled it off the shelf a year or so ago--now has its back on the shelf for ~$7/qt. It appears this was a bureaucratic overreaction/SNAFU to some regulations that may or may not have had an effect, or maybe Valvoline changed the formulation to comply. bs On 2/8/2017 12:21 PM, David Masucci wrote: > Are you guys referring to the full synthetic, or the conventional version of this oil! > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Feb 8, 2017, at 10:38 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: >> >> I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they >> have it. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> Spidell >> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil >> >> Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it >> supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as >> do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a >> while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says >> it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. >> >> AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' >> >> Bob >> >> > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Feb 9 09:47:17 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 08:47:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil References: <15a2395bc2e-66aa-20a79@webstg-m01.mail.aol.com> That's a little harsh, Gary. After my initial post, I did some googling and found some anecdotal 'evidence;' here's just one example (from our LBC brethren): http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,3222905 You can 'research' yourself by googling 'valvoline vr1 20w-50 banned in california;' it appears others have thought the same. I have no prefabricated agenda; I'm doing an expensive engine rebuild for my BJ8 and want the best oil possible--for a reasonable price--for the engine when I reinstall it (my cam lobes and tappet faces were seriously worn). I'd been buying VR1 for a while when the local parts house told me 'we pulled it off the shelves.' My engine builder--when asked if VR1 was a good oil for older, flat tappet engines said 'Yeah, but you can't get it in California.' So, I got curious (and, in the meantime, bought 3 cases online). Banning VR1 made no sense, since other brands--Castrol, for one--still claim 'adequate' ZDDP for older, flat tappet engines, and the consensus seemed to be that many 20W-50 oils still had sufficient ZDDP since they weren't likely to be used in newer cars with catalytic converters, but that's the 'reading' I was getting from several sources. I had resigned myself to buying online and, with a full case order you can get free shipping from Amazon at a better price than the parts house anyway. I will confess to being a bit predisposed to assume the 'banned' scenario; several products which I've found to be effective--3M's adhesive remover, for one--appear* to be NLA in CA, and I think the best upholstery adhesive I know of--Weldwood--hasn't been seen on shelves around here for a while (I buy qt bottles from my upholsterer, who buys 5-gal cans from, well, I don't want to know where). I'll also confess to a poor choice of wording in my previous post--I was speculating and should have made that clear for the nuance-challenged. Full Disclosure: I'm a native Californian--fourth-generation, to be exact--and have mixed feelings about some of my state's political actions (but have defended some of them on several occasions). I can attest to a dramatic improvement in our air quality over my lifetime, and we have a ways to go. I also have a background in chemistry--both educational and in the workforce--so I understand the dangers of some compounds--halogenated hydrocarbons in particular--being let loose in the environment, so I stride both sides of the environmental arguments. It should be noted CA does not require vehicle inspections--a serious tax and hassle, IMO--and the state did us old car owners a solid when it eliminated the smog check for pre-1968 cars. I still don't have an answer as to why VR1 was pulled from store shelves, but has now reappeared. Either there was a misunderstanding--possibly* with the SAE rating system--or, possibly* Valvoline changed the formulation to comply*. Bob * NOTE: PURE SPECULATION ON MY PART. On 2/9/2017 7:55 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > Or maybe you are fabricating a wholly unsubstantiated scenario to fit > with your own personal beliefs & prejudices? > Gary Hodson > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > Cc: Healeys > Sent: Thu, Feb 9, 2017 9:33 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > > Well, my local parts house--the same one that pulled it off the shelf a > year or so ago--now has its back on the shelf for ~$7/qt. > > It appears this was a bureaucratic overreaction/SNAFU to some > regulations that may or may not have had an effect, or maybe Valvoline > changed the formulation to comply. > > bs > > > On 2/8/2017 12:21 PM, David Masucci wrote: > > Are you guys referring to the full synthetic, or the conventional > version of this oil! > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > >> On Feb 8, 2017, at 10:38 AM, Bruce Steele > >> > >> I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, > and they > >> have it. > >> > >> Bruce Steele > >> Brea, CA > >> 1960 BN7 > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > >> Spidell > >> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM > >> Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > >> > >> Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > >> supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the > 20W-50, as > >> do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house > told me a > >> while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine > builder says > >> it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims > high ZDDP. > >> > >> AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > >> > >> Bob > >> > >> > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Feb 9 10:55:18 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 12:55:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Mercy--it was just a comment--------------non-threatening at that. We all speculate ---- warthodson at aol.com wrote: ============= Or maybe you are fabricating a wholly unsubstantiated scenario to fit with your own personal beliefs & prejudices? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Cc: Healeys Sent: Thu, Feb 9, 2017 9:33 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Well, my local parts house--the same one that pulled it off the shelf a year or so ago--now has its back on the shelf for ~$7/qt. It appears this was a bureaucratic overreaction/SNAFU to some regulations that may or may not have had an effect, or maybe Valvoline changed the formulation to comply. bs On 2/8/2017 12:21 PM, David Masucci wrote: > Are you guys referring to the full synthetic, or the conventional version of this oil! > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Feb 8, 2017, at 10:38 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: >> >> I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they >> have it. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> Spidell >> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil >> >> Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it >> supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as >> do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a >> while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says >> it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. >> >> AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' >> >> Bob >> >> > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From rft2 at aol.com Thu Feb 9 13:01:40 2017 From: rft2 at aol.com (rft2 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 15:01:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Just bought some here in Michigan from O'Reilly's Auto Parts, on sale for $4.99/quart or $24.95/5qt jug. Mal Hickok BJ7 & BJ8 Richland, MI -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: warthodson Cc: healeys Sent: Thu, Feb 9, 2017 1:39 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil That's a little harsh, Gary. After my initial post, I did some googling and found some anecdotal 'evidence;' here's just one example (from our LBC brethren): http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,3222905 You can 'research' yourself by googling 'valvoline vr1 20w-50 banned in california;' it appears others have thought the same. I have no prefabricated agenda; I'm doing an expensive engine rebuild for my BJ8 and want the best oil possible--for a reasonable price--for the engine when I reinstall it (my cam lobes and tappet faces were seriously worn). I'd been buying VR1 for a while when the local parts house told me 'we pulled it off the shelves.' My engine builder--when asked if VR1 was a good oil for older, flat tappet engines said 'Yeah, but you can't get it in California.' So, I got curious (and, in the meantime, bought 3 cases online). Banning VR1 made no sense, since other brands--Castrol, for one--still claim 'adequate' ZDDP for older, flat tappet engines, and the consensus seemed to be that many 20W-50 oils still had sufficient ZDDP since they weren't likely to be used in newer cars with catalytic converters, but that's the 'reading' I was getting from several sources. I had resigned myself to buying online and, with a full case order you can get free shipping from Amazon at a better price than the parts house anyway. I will confess to being a bit predisposed to assume the 'banned' scenario; several products which I've found to be effective--3M's adhesive remover, for one--appear* to be NLA in CA, and I think the best upholstery adhesive I know of--Weldwood--hasn't been seen on shelves around here for a while (I buy qt bottles from my upholsterer, who buys 5-gal cans from, well, I don't want to know where). I'll also confess to a poor choice of wording in my previous post--I was speculating and should have made that clear for the nuance-challenged. Full Disclosure: I'm a native Californian--fourth-generation, to be exact--and have mixed feelings about some of my state's political actions (but have defended some of them on several occasions). I can attest to a dramatic improvement in our air quality over my lifetime, and we have a ways to go. I also have a background in chemistry--both educational and in the workforce--so I understand the dangers of some compounds--halogenated hydrocarbons in particular--being let loose in the environment, so I stride both sides of the environmental arguments. It should be noted CA does not require vehicle inspections--a serious tax and hassle, IMO--and the state did us old car owners a solid when it eliminated the smog check for pre-1968 cars. I still don't have an answer as to why VR1 was pulled from store shelves, but has now reappeared. Either there was a misunderstanding--possibly* with the SAE rating system--or, possibly* Valvoline changed the formulation to comply*. Bob * NOTE: PURE SPECULATION ON MY PART. On 2/9/2017 7:55 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: Or maybe you are fabricating a wholly unsubstantiated scenario to fit with your own personal beliefs & prejudices? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Cc: Healeys Sent: Thu, Feb 9, 2017 9:33 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Well, my local parts house--the same one that pulled it off the shelf a year or so ago--now has its back on the shelf for ~$7/qt. It appears this was a bureaucratic overreaction/SNAFU to some regulations that may or may not have had an effect, or maybe Valvoline changed the formulation to comply. bs On 2/8/2017 12:21 PM, David Masucci wrote: > Are you guys referring to the full synthetic, or the conventional version of this oil! > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Feb 8, 2017, at 10:38 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: >> >> I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they >> have it. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> Spidell >> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil >> >> Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it >> supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as >> do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a >> while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says >> it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. >> >> AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' >> >> Bob >> >> > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kentmclean at comcast.net Fri Feb 10 08:05:09 2017 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 10:05:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 1948 Healey Hobbs Woodie Estate On Bring-a-Trailer. I?m so glad Donald hired Gerry Coker to pen the 100. http://bringatrailer.com/2017/02/09/dobbs-and-dibbens-1948-austin-healey-woodie/ - Kent McLean ?56 100 BN2 From michael.oritt at gmail.com Fri Feb 10 10:19:53 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 12:19:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carb shafts All-- Some time back I posted about possibly needing to ream out the carb bodies and put in oversized shafts. Due to the fine weather here in the mid-Atlantic I did not get around to removing the carburetors until yesterday when snow was forecast--and naturally did not happen. In any case I disassembled everything this morning and--as many of you predicted--the wear appears to be confined solely to the sections of the shafts that pass through the carb bodies. There is a noticeable difference in feel when I partially withdraw the shafts so they bear on the non-bearing ends and so I am sure that standard shafts will do the trick. Thanks as always for the good advice. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Fri Feb 10 10:47:00 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 17:47:00 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener Hi, I'd saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don't recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I'd made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it. So, my nephew's fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. First off, I agree that there's no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank. Having said that, I read the advice that I'd stored so carefully and began to wonder if I'd understood it correctly. Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn't the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge's terminal T? And wouldn't those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? Shouldn't the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it? Maybe I'm over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Fuel gauge needle vibration damper PH version.docx Type: application/vnd.openxmlformats-officedocument.wordprocessingml.document Size: 36193 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fgspringer at gmail.com Fri Feb 10 10:47:52 2017 From: fgspringer at gmail.com (FGary Springer) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 11:47:52 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Valvolene Oil References: Just to chime in, I purchase VR1 20W-50W for $4.59/ QT at local Farm & Fleets. Same price for 50W. Gary Springer BT7 Tri-Carb. On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 8:27 PM, george mcharris wrote: > I have been using VR1 20/50 with ZDDP for quite a while. Buy on line at > ruralking.com at about five bucks...sometimes cheaper. > > Summit Racing has many other weights up to 50 at about eight bucks. > > George McHarris > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > healeys-request at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Wednesday, February 8, 2017 11:00 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 45 > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net > > autox.team.net > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys > Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send > email ... > > > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: SU HD6 float chamber (Graeme Molony) > 2. Re: BJ8 Shock Problems (rft2 at aol.com) > 3. Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Bob Spidell) > 4. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (rrengineer.mike) > 5. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (John Spaur) > 6. BT7 --> BJ8? (BJ8Healeys) > 7. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Tom Felts) > 8. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (i erbs) > 9. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Charlie Schott) > 10. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (Al Fuller) > 11. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (RCT2BNC at aol.com) > 12. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (Jean Caron) > 13. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Bruce Steele) > 14. Re: BJ8 Shock Problems (Niels Bengaard) > 15. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (BJ8Healeys) > 16. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (David Nock) > 17. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (HealeyRick) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 09:06:08 +1100 > From: "Graeme Molony" > To: "Peter & Veronica" , > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber > Message-ID: <00318CF366A44DBD9B3D7C9237D9D8FC at msiallinone> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Peter > > If all else fails I think I have a spare pair of horizontal float chambers > from a set of Jaguar HD8?s that I had converted > happy to part with them for the freight costs but you can probably find > units closer to home at a Jaguar Wreckers > > Graeme J Molony > > Mt. Martha > Vic 3934 > > > > From: Peter & Veronica > Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 3:55 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber > > G'day all > > I'm looking for a horizontal float chamber for an SU HD6 carb. They are > mostly angled for semi-downdraft applications, but I need one for a > horizontal application on a Shorrock supercharger. > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > > BN1 Holden V6 > MG TC special (Shorrock blown) > > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > -------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > www.team.net > www.team.net > The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time > volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network > connection, name ... > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Mail Archives - Team.Net > www.team.net > Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest > updated. > > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net > > autox.team.net > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys > Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send > email ... > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/molony at dodo.com.au > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/d0b96580/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 17:15:22 -0500 > From: rft2 at aol.com > To: steveg at abrazosdata.com, healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems > Message-ID: <15a1aa543e6-416d-116d6 at webprd-m12.mail.aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi Steve, > > > This is an interesting solution. Just called Tom and looked at the link > you sent me, ordered a couple of plates and will try this method. Looks > like it should work, I'll let you know. > > > Thank you for this idea. > > > Mal Hickok > BJ7 & BJ8 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve B. Gerow > To: healeys > Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2017 2:57 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems > > Tom's Import Toys sells handy replacement plates for $99.50 the pair: > > http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1 > > These should be stronger than the Moss captive nuts. You open up the end > of the shock tower, knock out the captive nuts and slide the plate in. > > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > www.team.net > www.team.net > The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time > volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network > connection, name ... > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Mail Archives - Team.Net > www.team.net > Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest > updated. > > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net > > autox.team.net > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys > Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send > email ... > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rft2 at aol.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170207/951c8928/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 15:46:06 -0800 > From: Bob Spidell > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > Message-ID: <0753458a-70c6-2d36-0322-0a1df1eec0e4 at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, > as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told > me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine > builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which > claims high ZDDP. > > AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > > Bob > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2017 19:19:32 -0800 > From: "rrengineer.mike" > To: Bob Spidell , Healeys > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > Just ordered a case of this stuff. www.classiccarmotoroil.com. $80 > delivered for a case of 12 quarts. ?1600 PPM ZDDP.Mike MacLean > > > Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone > > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Bob Spidell > Date: 2/7/17 3:46 PM (GMT-08:00) > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, > as do other 20W-50s that are still available.? My local parts house told > me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine > builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which > claims high ZDDP. > > AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170207/8d3fd11f/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 21:51:33 -0800 > From: "John Spaur" > To: "'rrengineer.mike'" , "'Bob Spidell'" > , "'Healeys'" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > Message-ID: <000601d281cf$698e6a00$3cab3e00$@sbcglobal.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > The link takes me to a page where the only choice is to order 15W-40 > ?Classic? brand motor oil with 1,600 ppm zinc. Not VR1 racing oil. > > > > Found some VR1 sources for $7 buck or so and up to $18/quart. Glad I > bought the local supply out months ago. No doubt the availability is due to > some EPA or BAAQMD regulation. The latter is the California equivalent to > the EPA. > > > > John Spaur > > Sitting a few cases of black gold and loving it! > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of rrengineer.mike > Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 7:20 PM > To: Bob Spidell ; Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > > > > Just ordered a case of this stuff. www.classiccarmotoroil.com classiccarmotoroil.com> . $80 delivered for a case of 12 quarts. 1600 > PPM ZDDP. > > Mike MacLean > > > > Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone > > > -------- Original message -------- > > > > Date: 2/7/17 3:46 PM (GMT-08:00) > > > > Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170207/6d64e457/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 07:43:32 -0500 > From: "BJ8Healeys" > To: > Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > Message-ID: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't > the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/f6e9101e/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 8:15:51 -0500 > From: Tom Felts > To: Bob Spidell , Healeys > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > Message-ID: <20170208081551.UUOD9.1888.root at pamxwww11-z01> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Interesting----Several years ago, an auto parts place here in Pa told me > the same story----but---wasn't true. Where he got that info , who knows. > I get it in most autoparts place. Have been using it for a long time. > tom > ---- Bob Spidell wrote: > > ============= > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, > as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told > me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine > builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which > claims high ZDDP. > > AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 05:55:45 -0800 > From: i erbs > To: BJ8 Healeys > Cc: Ahealey help > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > Message-ID: > gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Most likely someone found a BT7 vin plate and screwed it to this fright wig > of a car. > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > Portland,OR > > On Feb 8, 2017 5:33 AM, "BJ8Healeys" wrote: > > > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used > directly > > onto a BT7 body? > > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > > isn't the question. > > > > > > > > Steve Byers > > > > HBJ8L/36666 > > > > BJ8 Registry > > > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/4e98a3de/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 08:41:17 -0600 > From: "Charlie Schott" > To: "Tom Felts" , "Bob Spidell" > , "Healeys" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > I was told the same thing at AutoZone here in Florida and when I inquired > at > their headquarters, they told me that they're only selling the 20W 50 > weight > and it is now located in their motorcycle and ATV section. I got 2 cases > from ebay at $6.50 a quart and free shipping. > > Regards, > > Charlie Schott > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tom Felts > Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:15 AM > To: Bob Spidell ; Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > > Interesting----Several years ago, an auto parts place here in Pa told me > the > same story----but---wasn't true. Where he got that info , who knows. I > get > it in most autoparts place. Have been using it for a long time. > tom > ---- Bob Spidell wrote: > > ============= > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, > as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told > me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine > builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which > claims high ZDDP. > > AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:12:01 -0500 > From: "Al Fuller" > To: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > Message-ID: <01bd01d2821d$b3c91d10$1b5b5730$@bighealey.org> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Steve: > > > > While I no longer have my BT-7, the place where the top frame assembly fits > on this car looks familiar. On the other hand, it also looks like it has > the mounting plate for a later style convertible top. Is this a clue? > > > > Also as regards your comment regarding major structural modification: it > appears the entire long frame rails have been patched or replaced for most > of their lengths, as evidenced by the lack of weld beads, as well as the > new > beads where they were welded in. is the frame work another clue? > > > > Al > > > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of > BJ8Healeys > Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 7:44 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > > > > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't > the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/9c73278f/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:17:59 -0500 > From: RCT2BNC at aol.com > To: bspidell at comcast.net, healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > Bob, > > I order mine from Amazon when my local suppliers' shelves are empty. > Price > is competitive with the auto-parts stores (if you have Prime and don't pay > for shipping). Maybe you could try this route in California. I also use > single-weight 40, 50 and 60 VR1 sometimes. > > > Ben Cohen > BN1, BN7, BJ8 > > > > > > In a message dated 2/7/2017 6:54:50 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, > bspidell at comcast.net writes: > > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, > as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told > me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine > builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which > claims high ZDDP. > > AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rct2bnc at aol.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/736f9fa9/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 15:32:31 +0000 > From: Jean Caron > To: BJ8Healeys , "healeys at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > Message-ID: > namprd19.prod.outlook.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Steve, > > Looking at the photos, it appears that the chassis is indeed from a BJ7 or > BJ8, at least the "B" posts have the holes for the door latch from a BJ8. > However the door hinges are from an earlier model for sure as the later > cars had the square plates against the "A" posts from what I recall. The > front shroud of a BJ8 is quite different at the windshield so the front > shroud of a BT7 would not work for a BJ7/BJ8 from what I know. I think as > you indicated they simply used a BT7 Serial number. It certainly appears > that they are trying to get rid of some of their parts accumulated over the > years and they had enough for one car. Dealers such as that place could not > care less as long as there is money for them in the end. > > > Jean > > > ________________________________ > From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys < > sbyers at ec.rr.com> > Sent: February 8, 2017 12:43 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > > > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm beverlyhillscarclub.com/1960-austin-healey-3000-c-6836.htm> > > 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 | Beverly Hills Car Club beverlyhillscarclub.com/1960-austin-healey-3000-c-6836.htm> > www.beverlyhillscarclub.com > Classic Car Dealership - European Classic Cars & American Autos. Mercedes, > Jaguar, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari, Austin Healey & more. We Buy & Sell > Classic Cars. > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/1b8ad484/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 07:38:49 -0800 > From: "Bruce Steele" > To: "'Bob Spidell'" , "'Healeys'" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > Message-ID: <032a01d28221$7212c4d0$56384e70$@roadrunner.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they > have it. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as > do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a > while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says > it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high > ZDDP. > > AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 14 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 16:50:56 +0100 > From: "Niels Bengaard" > To: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems > Message-ID: <001e01d28223$22e95930$68bc0b90$@dk> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > The only bad thing about replacing is that you lose the original VIN > number stamped into the side of the right side plate. > > It might be difficult to spot, but after removing the paint it was visible > on my car. > > > > Niels > > > > Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] P? vegne af rft2 at aol.com > Sendt: 7. februar 2017 23:15 > Til: steveg at abrazosdata.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Emne: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems > > > > Hi Steve, > > > > This is an interesting solution. Just called Tom and looked at the link > you sent me, ordered a couple of plates and will try this method. Looks > like it should work, I'll let you know. > > > > Thank you for this idea. > > Mal Hickok > > BJ7 & BJ8 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve B. Gerow > To: healeys > Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2017 2:57 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems > > Tom's Import Toys sells handy replacement plates for $99.50 the pair: > > http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30 < > http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1> &new=1 > > These should be stronger than the Moss captive nuts. You open up the end > of the shock tower, knock out the captive nuts and slide the plate in. > > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rft2 at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/af07a134/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 15 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:54:56 -0500 > From: "BJ8Healeys" > To: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > Message-ID: <004201d28223$b21d0c00$16572400$@rr.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Thanks for your thoughts, Jean. The door hinges are from a BJ7 or Phase 1 > BJ8. All of the body parts I see in the photos are BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. > Some photos show "spare parts", including what appears to be an armrest and > shreds of original red carpet from a BT7, along with a pre-BJ8 speedometer. > > > I am not familiar enough with pre-BJ8 models to say whether the convertible > windshield and doors would fit on a BT7, but I think they would not. > Perhaps the VIN plate on the firewall belongs to those BT7 "spare parts". > I > think it more likely that someone had a Phase 1 BJ8 and put a BT7 VIN plate > on the firewall than that they tried to make a BJ8 out of a BT7. In that > case, why keep the BT7 VIN plate? > > > > As far as I know, BHCC just sells the cars they buy on to someone else and > don't restore or repair them. I wouldn't think they would be assembling a > car from miscellaneous parts. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > From: Jean Caron [mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com > ] > Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 10:33 AM > To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > > > > Steve, > > Looking at the photos, it appears that the chassis is indeed from a BJ7 or > BJ8, at least the "B" posts have the holes for the door latch from a BJ8. > However the door hinges are from an earlier model for sure as the later > cars > had the square plates against the "A" posts from what I recall. The front > shroud of a BJ8 is quite different at the windshield so the front shroud of > a BT7 would not work for a BJ7/BJ8 from what I know. I think as you > indicated they simply used a BT7 Serial number. It certainly appears that > they are trying to get rid of some of their parts accumulated over the > years > and they had enough for one car. Dealers such as that place could not care > less as long as there is money for them in the end. > > > > Jean > > > > _____ > > From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys > > Sent: February 8, 2017 12:43 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > > > > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 | Beverly Hills Car Club > > www.beverlyhillscarclub.com > > Classic Car Dealership - European Classic Cars & American Autos. Mercedes, > Jaguar, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari, Austin Healey & more. We Buy & Sell > Classic Cars. > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't > the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _____ > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13907 - Release Date: 02/07/17 > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13908 - Release Date: 02/07/17 > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/db274710/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 16 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 09:22:52 -0800 > From: "David Nock" > To: "Al Fuller" , > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > This car looks like a pile of parts that got put together to make up a car. > The rear shroud is BJ7, Phase 1 BJ8 > Carbs are BJ7 > Doors are BJ8 > Dash is a BJ8 > Front shroud BJ7 , Phase 1 BJ8 > Vent windows are BJ8 > Frame cut out for the exhaust is BJ8 late > > Also notice that there are no front springs or plates, the rear end is not > attached., the frame is CRAP > > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 <(209)%20948-8767> > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > From: Al Fuller > Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:12 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > > Steve: > > > > While I no longer have my BT-7, the place where the top frame assembly > fits on this car looks familiar? On the other hand, it also looks like it > has the mounting plate for a later style convertible top. Is this a clue? > > > > Also as regards your comment regarding major structural modification: it > appears the entire long frame rails have been patched or replaced for most > of their lengths, as evidenced by the lack of weld beads, as well as the > new beads where they were welded in. is the frame work another clue? > > > > Al > > > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys > Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 7:44 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > > > > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > -------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/5de3d91a/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 17 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 08:08:21 -1000 > From: HealeyRick > To: BJ8Healeys > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > Message-ID: > mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Steve, > > To your original question, I think it would be possible, but you'd also > have to change the rear shroud as well to get the chrome door top finisher > to match the small chrome finisher on the shroud. Much easier to jack up > the VIN of the BT7 and drive a BJ8 under it. BTW, BHCC has a search > function that says "Find the car of your dreams" Obviously, it was broken > for this one. > > Happy Healeying, > Rick Neville > > On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 2:43 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used > directly > > onto a BT7 body? > > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > > isn't the question. > > > > > > > > Steve Byers > > > > HBJ8L/36666 > > > > BJ8 Registry > > > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/31562544/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 45 > *************************************** > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/fgspringer at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Fri Feb 10 12:43:10 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 19:43:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> Hi Simon, I? think that keeping any sort of energy storage device well away from the fuel gauge circuit is sage advice. I would suggest that you try this: http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/06/smiths-and-jaegar-fuel-gauge-solution/ Michael S BN1 #174 On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 7:29 AM +1300, "Simon Lachlan" wrote: Hi, I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it. So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank. Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it? Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Feb 10 13:00:27 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 15:00:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> You can find it on my site at: http://www.healey6.com/Technical/FUEL%20GAUGE%20DAMPENER.png John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener Hi, I'd saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don't recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I'd made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it. So, my nephew's fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. First off, I agree that there's no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank. Having said that, I read the advice that I'd stored so carefully and began to wonder if I'd understood it correctly. Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn't the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge's terminal T? And wouldn't those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? Shouldn't the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it? Maybe I'm over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Fri Feb 10 13:15:13 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 12:15:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Fuel_Gauge_Dampener?= I've been using one of these for years. For details, see: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/101096144 PS - it's not perfect but it helps needle bouncing. Seems to result in a narrowed range of needle operation. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Feb 10 13:18:27 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 15:18:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] looking for a batch number Listers, I was contacted by someone looking for the batch number for a 3000 MkI. The VIN is HBT7L8195 and the Body # is 8290. Anyone have the batch number for a car near this one? I also suggested that he contact the British Motor Museum and I've sent an email to Mell Ward, the UK registrar. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php From schottc at knology.net Fri Feb 10 15:30:33 2017 From: schottc at knology.net (Charlie Schott) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 16:30:33 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> <000001d283d8$54cb2620$fe617260$@verizon.net> I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the engine to raise it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks. Regards, Charlie From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener Hi, I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it. So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank. Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it? Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much. Simon -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Fri Feb 10 15:29:58 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 22:29:58 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener Hey Simon, The Triumph Spitfires and GT6, I believe, had voltage stabilizers for the fuel gauge. Maybe they could be used in a Healey? I would defer to Michael for an answer. Cheers, Doug Hi Simon, I think that keeping any sort of energy storage device well away from the fuel gauge circuit is sage advice.I would suggest that you try this: http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/06/smiths-and-jaegar-fuel-gauge-solution/ Michael S BN1 #174 On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 7:29 AM +1300, "Simon Lachlan" wrote: Hi,I’d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don’t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I’d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it.So, my nephew’s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes.First off, I agree that there’s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank.Having said that, I read the advice that I’d stored so carefully and began to wonder if I’d understood it correctly.Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn’t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge’s terminal T? And wouldn’t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor?Shouldn’t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it?Maybe I’m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much.Simon ____________________________________________________________ College Student Discovers The Fastest Way To Lose Weight! Capitalizing Calories http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/589e3f1488ffe3f140c41st03duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri Feb 10 16:44:25 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 15:44:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge Dampener References: <20170210201513.32696.qmail@hoster902.com> I also used this after seeing Steve's car, and it works well enough. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve B. Gerow Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 12:15 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge Dampener I've been using one of these for years. For details, see: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/101096144 PS - it's not perfect but it helps needle bouncing. Seems to result in a narrowed range of needle operation. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri Feb 10 17:02:11 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 16:02:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn't dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Off comes the head... Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Fri Feb 10 17:59:19 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 00:59:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener References: <20170210.172958.22737.0@webmail13.dca.untd.com> The gauges with voltage stabilizers work in a different resistance range. You would have to change out all of the electrical gauges. I think the problem with the fuel gauge jumping around may be related to the condition of the contacts in the fuel sending unit. Maybe try cleaning those up before trying anything drastic. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of dwflagg at juno.com Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 10:29:58 PM To: michael.salter at gmail.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener Hey Simon, The Triumph Spitfires and GT6, I believe, had voltage stabilizers for the fuel gauge. Maybe they could be used in a Healey? I would defer to Michael for an answer. Cheers, Doug Hi Simon, I think that keeping any sort of energy storage device well away from the fuel gauge circuit is sage advice. I would suggest that you try this: http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/06/smiths-and-jaegar-fuel-gauge-solution/ Michael S BN1 #174 Hi, I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it. So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank. Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it? Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much. Simon ____________________________________________________________ College Student Discovers The Fastest Way To Lose Weight! Capitalizing Calories http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/589e3f1488ffe3f140c41st03duc [SponsoredBy Content.Ad] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Feb 10 18:03:28 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 20:03:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> Look at this solution: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/101096144 Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Simon Lachlan Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 2:43 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener Hi, I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it. So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank. Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it? Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Feb 10 18:06:09 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 17:06:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> <000001d283d8$54cb2620$fe617260$@verizon.net> Did this a couple years ago. You'll need to pull the radiator, detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the engine mounts (at the bottom). Don't lift at the pan unless you're able to spread the load considerably. It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts. My engine rebuilder just pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is open to the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread sealant on it. Unless your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to use some sort of sealant on the gasket. The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should have been torqued to 150lb-ft. You have to lift the engine enough for this nut, and whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the crossmember. I used a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the socket on straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad. Bob On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: > I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would > someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the engine to > raise it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks. > Regards, > Charlie > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Simon Lachlan > *Sent:* Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener > > Hi, > > I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel > gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled > it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately > against some day in the future when I might get round to actually > doing it. > > So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this > prompted me to dig out the article/notes. > > First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor > anywhere near the fuel tank. > > Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and > began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. > > Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals > on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the > language that I can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come > down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s > terminal T? And wouldn?t those fluctuations still register as such on > the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? > > Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the > fluctuations cannot bypass it? > > Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without > understanding it. Maybe I think too much. > > Simon > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Feb 10 20:03:20 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 19:03:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com> Begs the question: How did the 'bag full of sludge' get into the water jacket? Bob On 2/10/2017 4:02 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil > is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. > They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; > nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a > bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. > Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all > this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to > foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor > oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, > we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor > with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods > and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the > new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > *From:* Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] > *Sent:* Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* Off comes the head... > > Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping > it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was > done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water > jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil > into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this > problem? > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Fri Feb 10 20:09:39 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 03:09:39 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com> Not sure about coating the water jacket with epoxy. I would think that would impede heat transfer... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bruce Steele Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 12:02:11 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Off comes the head... Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Feb 10 21:21:10 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 20:21:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener References: <20170210.172958.22737.0@webmail13.dca.untd.com> I believe the quality of the resistor in the sending unit can be the problem. After market sending units have a lot of space between the windings and some have single contacts. The original ones have very tight windings and may have duel contacts although I am not sure about the last point. Joh Spaur '62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 4:59 PM To: dwflagg at juno.com; michael.salter at gmail.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener The gauges with voltage stabilizers work in a different resistance range You would have to change out all of the electrical gauges. I think the problem with the fuel gauge jumping around may be related to the condition of the contacts in the fuel sending unit. Maybe try cleaning those up before trying anything drastic. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Fri Feb 10 21:54:31 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 20:54:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?timing_chain_cover_gasket?= i have found that it pays to unbolt the exhaust headers from manifold if your flexible pipe is not so flexible anymore. From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sat Feb 11 00:21:06 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 07:21:06 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor We?re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a positive earth BJ8. The timing may be all to hell. I?m in the UK; the car?s in Paris. Let?s say that the clamp bolts ?may somehow have got loosened? during the initially successful swap from points to Ignitor the other day. (Yes, it?s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in the boot when the car was delivered.) Now, I?ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static Timing etc with a view that we may have to go down that track, if it proves that we have air, fuel and spark but not necessarily in the right order! I?ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is primarily a Good Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting information. For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be static timed. Another source implies that all EI?s, including Ignitor IIs, can be timed by putting a multimeter across the coil?s primary connections. Another one says:- ?To begin the timing exercise you must statically time the engine at around 10 degrees BTDC. With the engine at 10 degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the distributor so that the points are just about to open or in the case of an electronic distributor so that the stator and rotor tips are just aligning. Lock the distributor enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum advance retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start the engine and let it idle, adjust the timing with the engine running to 10 degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.? (Ignore the 10? advice.) With reference to an Ignitor ..does this apply? And what is the ?stator?? I can ?assume? that it?s the little curved black box of tricks? Does this or could this apply to the Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate one would have assume that the critical alignment point in the ?stator? was prec.isely in the centre of the inside of the curve??..... I suppose one could try the voltmeter across the coil method and see where the rotor was in relation to the ?stator??? Any thoughts??? (A lot of ?assumes? in the last paragraph) Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I?ve timed them, but never had to go back to Stage One ie I?ve used a timing light and made adjustments to a running engine rather than go back to basics where the timing is completely out and the engine won?t fire at all. Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris! Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 45920 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Feb 11 00:44:16 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 07:44:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com> You don't want to coat the water jacket with anything.? You don't need anything impeding the heat transfer of antifreeze making direct contact to the water jacket surface.Mike MacLean On Friday, February 10, 2017 7:06 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: #yiv0738400708 #yiv0738400708 -- filtered {font-family:Helvetica;panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;}#yiv0738400708 filtered {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}#yiv0738400708 filtered {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv0738400708 filtered {panose-1:2 11 6 3 2 2 2 2 2 4;}#yiv0738400708 p.yiv0738400708MsoNormal, #yiv0738400708 li.yiv0738400708MsoNormal, #yiv0738400708 div.yiv0738400708MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv0738400708 a:link, #yiv0738400708 span.yiv0738400708MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0738400708 a:visited, #yiv0738400708 span.yiv0738400708MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0738400708 span.yiv0738400708EmailStyle17 {color:windowtext;}#yiv0738400708 span.yiv0738400708EmailStyle18 {color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv0738400708 .yiv0738400708MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv0738400708 filtered {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv0738400708 div.yiv0738400708WordSection1 {}#yiv0738400708 So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. ?They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. ?Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block.? Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant.? Fooled me, for sure.? For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel.? I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. ?Bruce SteeleBrea, CA1960 BN7 ?From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Off comes the head... ?Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? ?Bruce SteeleBrea, CA1960 BN7 ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 11 01:06:59 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 09:06:59 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener References: <20170210.172958.22737.0@webmail13.dca.untd.com> The later Smiths/Jaeger gauges in many UK cars, and in the later AH for that matter, are bimetal operated gauges, a current regulated by the variable resistor in the sender heats a bimetal which will react in bending, driving the needle pointer, however it reacts very slowly hence a stable reading. These are fed by 10V provided by a small regulator somewhere behind the dash. They have a ca. 90? window over the scale. The early ones are coil operated which react instantly. A capacitor to damped the reading is a good idea. Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-2-2017 om 23:29 schreef dwflagg at juno.com: > Hey Simon, > The Triumph Spitfires and GT6, I believe, had voltage stabilizers for > the fuel gauge. Maybe they could be used in a Healey? I would defer to > Michael for an answer. > Cheers, > Doug > > Hi Simon, I think that keeping any sort of energy storage device well > away from the fuel gauge circuit is sage advice. > I would suggest that you try this: > > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/06/smiths-and-jaegar-fuel-gauge-solution/ > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > > > On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 7:29 AM +1300, "Simon Lachlan" > wrote: > > Hi, > I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my > fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if > I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it > appropriately against some day in the future when I might get > round to actually doing it. > So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and > this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. > First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor > anywhere near the fuel tank. > Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully > and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. > Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two > terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it > crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the > fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender > unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those > fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally > unaffected by the capacitor? > Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the > fluctuations cannot bypass it? > Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without > understanding it. Maybe I think too much. > Simon > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *College Student Discovers The Fastest Way To Lose Weight!* > Capitalizing Calories > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/589e3f1488ffe3f140c41st03duc > SponsoredBy Content.Ad > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Feb 11 02:09:34 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 20:09:34 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com> That's great news Bruce! We have a process over here called redistrip. They have 3 separate processes. Cast iron - It's awesome for blocks and heads. Removed everything that isn't cast iron. No crap left. Only cast iron. They also have a process for aluminum. Only leaves aluminum - they did my shrouds. And one for steel. They did my guards/ bonnet etc. no paint, no bog, no filler. Their cast iron process has no equal. Glad you caught the issue before it cost you an engine. You now have 2 options in my book. Paint the oil side inside the block with red lead primer like the factory did. That's what I did, also inside my gearbox. Or get the block epoxy vacuum injected. Epoxy vacuum injection is what most manufacturers do to high pressure alloy castings. Basically, they put your totally cleaned block or head or whatever into a vacuum tank, then put in a bath of 2 pack epoxy, evacuate all air, and the 2 pack is sucked into every microscopic air hole. Never leaks. Google the processes. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone > On 11 Feb. 2017, at 11:02 am, Bruce Steele wrote: > > So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] > Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM > To: 'Healey List' > Subject: Off comes the head... > > Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 11 02:42:39 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 10:42:39 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com> Coating the waterjacket with epoxy??? What about heat transfer from metal to coolant? Just Don't. Use proper coolant instead. Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-2-2017 om 1:02 schreef Bruce Steele: > > So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil > is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. > They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; > nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a > bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. > Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all > this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to > foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor > oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, > we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor > with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods > and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the > new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > *From:* Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] > *Sent:* Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* Off comes the head... > > Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping > it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was > done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water > jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil > into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this > problem? > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 11 05:02:04 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 13:02:04 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor References: <000001d28437$69772790$3c6576b0$@homecall.co.uk> Set the crankshaft at the desired static ignition timing. Set the distributor housing with the rotor in the approximate position of no.1 cylinder on its compression stroke, then slightly back. Switch on the ignition and turn the distributor forwards until you hear the faint click of the spark. Switch of the ignition immediately. That would be fine for fine tuning the timing dynamically. Do not leave on the electronic ignition unnecessary, it may get damaged if left on for a long time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-2-2017 om 8:21 schreef Simon Lachlan: > > We?re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a positive > earth BJ8. > > The timing may be all to hell. I?m in the UK; the car?s in Paris. > > Let?s say that the clamp bolts ?may somehow have got loosened? during > the initially successful swap from points to Ignitor the other day. > > (Yes, it?s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in the > boot when the car was delivered.) > > Now, I?ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static Timing etc > with a view that we may have to go down that track, if it proves that > we have air, fuel and spark but not necessarily in the right order! > > I?ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is primarily a > Good Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting information. > > For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be static > timed. Another source implies that all EI?s, including Ignitor IIs, > can be timed by putting a multimeter across the coil?s primary > connections. > > Another one says:- ?To begin the timing exercise you must statically > time the engine at around *10* degrees BTDC. With the engine at *10* > degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the distributor so that the > points are just about to open or in the case of an electronic > distributor */_so that the stator and rotor tips are just aligning_/*. > Lock the distributor enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum > advance retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start the engine > and let it idle, adjust the timing with the engine running to *10* > degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.? > > (Ignore the 10? advice.) With reference to an Ignitor?..does this > apply? And what is the ?stator?? I can ?assume? that it?s the little > curved black box of tricks? Does this or could this apply to the > Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate??one would have assume that the > critical alignment point in the ?stator? was prec.isely in the centre > of the inside of the curve??..... I suppose one could try the > voltmeter across the coil method and see where the rotor was in > relation to the ?stator??? Any > > Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I?ve timed them, but > never had to go back to Stage One ie I?ve used a timing light and made > adjustments to a running engine rather than go back to basics where > the timing is completely out and the engine won?t fire at all. > > Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris! > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Feb 11 08:17:49 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 10:17:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Bolts & Screws - the firewall. References: <023401d283ec$42e4ff30$c8aefd90$@bigpond.net.au> Can someone help Les with his questions. Thanks John Sims Good morning John, I hope you got my note of thanks regarding my suspension issues etc. the other day, if not let me know. I love your site, but sometimes I struggle know where to start. I live in east Gippsland, in Victoria - Australia. Miles from much technical advice etc. And it doesn't matter what project I am on (with the Healey, an old Ford prefect or my 57 year old timber cruiser) I always struggle to get the right or accurate types of nuts & bolts etc. I am in the process of installing a heater box in my 100/6. I have a heater box & radiator which I have cleaned up & am sourcing other bits. The costs of the bits & pieces new aren't bad except the blower & mounts. If you know someone who has a second hand one could you please let me know. Anyway that's not what I am really contacting you about. There are many wires, cables etc. that go through firewall, clearly on mine some are in the wrong place. (especially apparent when you are playing around with the heater box). Is the a definitive picture - diagram of the firewall detailing what should go where? And further to this, the heater box is held in by a number of screws/bolts by what appears to captive nuts affixed the fire wall? Do you know what size & type of thread these are. There are a number these throughout the firewall supporting other bits. Thanks again my friend Warm regards Les Les Mathieson 4 Araluen Court (PO Box 142) Paynesville VIC 3880 0418106725 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sat Feb 11 08:51:28 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock British Car Specialists) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 07:51:28 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com> The coating is not the entire cooling system it will only be done in the bottom of the cooling system . This is a process that is done on race motors and high end exotic motors. We just did it to a 1098 Sprite cylinder head which is not available. You put the sealer where ever you suspect the problem only. The block had previously been rebuilt in 2000. When it was cleaned at that time I assume the was most likely hot tanked. The cleaning process we use is a three step process. It goes thru a media blazer, then a burner and lastly a pressure washer. This process leaves the block totally bare cast iron. When it came out of the burners the filter had about 2 1 gallon plastic bags of material that came from this motor. Normally there is about a sandwich bag full. This material was inside the cooling system and we are assuming the there was oil in there from the rebuild. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009 Enjoy www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs . . Sent from my iPad > On Feb 10, 2017, at 4:02 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] > Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM > To: 'Healey List' > Subject: Off comes the head... > > Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Sat Feb 11 09:09:51 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 11:09:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update Sludge comes in bags now? Larry -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: Bruce Steele ; 'Healey List' Sent: Sat, Feb 11, 2017 6:37 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update Begs the question: How did the 'bag full of sludge' get into the water jacket? Bob On 2/10/2017 4:02 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. ?They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. ?Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block.? Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant.? Fooled me, for sure.? For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel.? I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Off comes the head... ? Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sat Feb 11 11:36:00 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 10:36:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <111cfff7-c6fd-a846-0718-a40513d7e65d@comcast.net> <15a2df00dbc-6ee3-9d5@webprd-a82.mail.aol.com> Apparently when it's my engine it does! Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Larry Wendland [mailto:bighealey3k at aim.com] Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 8:10 AM To: bspidell at comcast.net; healeybruce at roadrunner.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update Sludge comes in bags now? Larry -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: Bruce Steele ; 'Healey List' Sent: Sat, Feb 11, 2017 6:37 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update Begs the question: How did the 'bag full of sludge' get into the water jacket? Bob On 2/10/2017 4:02 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Off comes the head... Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sat Feb 11 14:32:59 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 16:32:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor References: <000001d28437$69772790$3c6576b0$@homecall.co.uk> <5cf137c8-1746-97a6-8dcf-2d5a59862980@chello.nl> I am probably showing my ignorance on ignition theory but I have never understood the concern with static timing versus dynamic (total) timing when the car is running. Since the amount of centrifugal advance is not adjustable why am I concerned with what the initial static timing is? So long as the distributor is oriented correctly and I am in the ballpark--usually verified by the engine's starting--all I do is set total timing at 3000 rpms's. If I am missing something I would appreciate learning what that is. Best--Michael Oritt On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 7:02 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Set the crankshaft at the desired static ignition timing. Set the > distributor housing with the rotor in the approximate position of no.1 > cylinder on its compression stroke, then slightly back. Switch on the > ignition and turn the distributor forwards until you hear the faint click > of the spark. Switch of the ignition immediately. That would be fine for > fine tuning the timing dynamically. > Do not leave on the electronic ignition unnecessary, it may get damaged if > left on for a long time. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 11-2-2017 om 8:21 schreef Simon Lachlan: > > We?re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a positive earth > BJ8. > > The timing may be all to hell. I?m in the UK; the car?s in Paris. > > Let?s say that the clamp bolts ?may somehow have got loosened? during the > initially successful swap from points to Ignitor the other day. > > (Yes, it?s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in the boot > when the car was delivered.) > > Now, I?ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static Timing etc with a > view that we may have to go down that track, if it proves that we have air, > fuel and spark but not necessarily in the right order! > > I?ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is primarily a Good > Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting information. > > For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be static timed. > Another source implies that all EI?s, including Ignitor IIs, can be timed > by putting a multimeter across the coil?s primary connections. > > Another one says:- ?To begin the timing exercise you must statically time > the engine at around *10* degrees BTDC. With the engine at *10* degrees > BTDC on the firing stroke align the distributor so that the points are just > about to open or in the case of an electronic distributor *so that the > stator and rotor tips are just aligning*. Lock the distributor enough to > stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum advance retard is disconnected and > the tube plugged. Start the engine and let it idle, adjust the timing with > the engine running to *10* degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.? > > (Ignore the 10? advice.) With reference to an Ignitor?..does this apply? > And what is the ?stator?? I can ?assume? that it?s the little curved black > box of tricks? Does this or could this apply to the Pertronix? Seems a bit > inaccurate??one would have assume that the critical alignment point in the > ?stator? was prec.isely in the centre of the inside of the curve??..... I > suppose one could try the voltmeter across the coil method and see where > the rotor was in relation to the ?stator??? Any > > Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I?ve timed them, but > never had to go back to Stage One ie I?ve used a timing light and made > adjustments to a running engine rather than go back to basics where the > timing is completely out and the engine won?t fire at all. > > Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris! > > Simon > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Sat Feb 11 18:40:31 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 01:40:31 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor References: <000001d28437$69772790$3c6576b0$@homecall.co.uk> <5cf137c8-1746-97a6-8dcf-2d5a59862980@chello.nl>, I think that back in the day not everyone had a timing light so the manufacturers used static timing because that was a good starting point to fine tune the engine. You could then get closer to the optimum by ear. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael Oritt Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 9:32:59 PM To: Oudesluys Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor I am probably showing my ignorance on ignition theory but I have never understood the concern with static timing versus dynamic (total) timing when the car is running. Since the amount of centrifugal advance is not adjustable why am I concerned with what the initial static timing is? So long as the distributor is oriented correctly and I am in the ballpark--usually verified by the engine's starting--all I do is set total timing at 3000 rpms's. If I am missing something I would appreciate learning what that is. Best--Michael Oritt Set the crankshaft at the desired static ignition timing. Set the distributor housing with the rotor in the approximate position of no.1 cylinder on its compression stroke, then slightly back. Switch on the ignition and turn the distributor forwards until you hear the faint click of the spark. Switch of the ignition immediately. That would be fine for fine tuning the timing dynamically. Do not leave on the electronic ignition unnecessary, it may get damaged if left on for a long time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-2-2017 om 8:21 schreef Simon Lachlan: We?re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a positive earth BJ8. The timing may be all to hell. I?m in the UK; the car?s in Paris. Let?s say that the clamp bolts ?may somehow have got loosened? during the initially successful swap from points to Ignitor the other day. (Yes, it?s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in the boot when the car was delivered.) Now, I?ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static Timing etc with a view that we may have to go down that track, if it proves that we have air, fuel and spark but not necessarily in the right order! I?ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is primarily a Good Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting information. For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be static timed. Another source implies that all EI?s, including Ignitor IIs, can be timed by putting a multimeter across the coil?s primary connections. Another one says:- ?To begin the timing exercise you must statically time the engine at around 10 degrees BTDC. With the engine at 10 degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the distributor so that the points are just about to open or in the case of an electronic distributor so that the stator and rotor tips are just aligning. Lock the distributor enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum advance retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start the engine and let it idle, adjust the timing with the engine running to 10 degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.? (Ignore the 10? advice.) With reference to an Ignitor?..does this apply? And what is the ?stator?? I can ?assume? that it?s the little curved black box of tricks? Does this or could this apply to the Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate??one would have assume that the critical alignment point in the ?stator? was prec.isely in the centre of the inside of the curve??..... I suppose one could try the voltmeter across the coil method and see where the rotor was in relation to the ?stator??? Any Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I?ve timed them, but never had to go back to Stage One ie I?ve used a timing light and made adjustments to a running engine rather than go back to basics where the timing is completely out and the engine won?t fire at all. Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris! Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Feb 11 21:50:17 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 20:50:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor References: <000001d28437$69772790$3c6576b0$@homecall.co.uk> I haven't done this--and my engine is elsewhere so I'm working from feeble memory--but I THINK this'll work, if the distributor has been installed correctly: 1) turn the engine to TDC on the #1 cylinder, using whatever method you prefer 2) put the rotor on the distributor cam, it should point to about 2 o'clock IIRC 3) find the #1 secondary lead terminal on the inside of the distributor and make a mark corresponding to its location on the outside of the cap (firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4; #1 is the 'first' terminal on the 'bottom' level again, IIRC) 4) put the cap on the distributor and turn the distributor body so that your mark for the #1 cylinder is approximately over the center of the rotor tip (again, about 2 o'clock), plus turn the distributor a few degrees clockwise This should get the timing close enough for the engine to fire, then use an advance meter, or trial-and-error, to fine tune the timing. This is just a SWAG, but I think it'll work. Anybody see an issue please chime in. Bob On 2/10/2017 11:21 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > We?re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a positive > earth BJ8. > > The timing may be all to hell. I?m in the UK; the car?s in Paris. > > Let?s say that the clamp bolts ?may somehow have got loosened? during > the initially successful swap from points to Ignitor the other day. > > (Yes, it?s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in the > boot when the car was delivered.) > > Now, I?ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static Timing etc > with a view that we may have to go down that track, if it proves that > we have air, fuel and spark but not necessarily in the right order! > > I?ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is primarily a > Good Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting information. > > For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be static > timed. Another source implies that all EI?s, including Ignitor IIs, > can be timed by putting a multimeter across the coil?s primary > connections. > > Another one says:- ?To begin the timing exercise you must statically > time the engine at around *10* degrees BTDC. With the engine at *10* > degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the distributor so that the > points are just about to open or in the case of an electronic > distributor */_so that the stator and rotor tips are just aligning_/*. > Lock the distributor enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum > advance retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start the engine > and let it idle, adjust the timing with the engine running to *10* > degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.? > > (Ignore the 10? advice.) With reference to an Ignitor?..does this > apply? And what is the ?stator?? I can ?assume? that it?s the little > curved black box of tricks? Does this or could this apply to the > Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate??one would have assume that the > critical alignment point in the ?stator? was prec.isely in the centre > of the inside of the curve??..... I suppose one could try the > voltmeter across the coil method and see where the rotor was in > relation to the ?stator??? Any thoughts??? (A lot of ?assumes? in the > last paragraph) > > Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I?ve timed them, but > never had to go back to Stage One ie I?ve used a timing light and made > adjustments to a running engine rather than go back to basics where > the timing is completely out and the engine won?t fire at all. > > Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris! > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: image/jpeg Size: 45920 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sun Feb 12 04:51:22 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 11:51:22 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor References: <000001d28437$69772790$3c6576b0$@homecall.co.uk> <5cf137c8-1746-97a6-8dcf-2d5a59862980@chello.nl> In this instance, static timing would precede dynamic timing because the car was so far out of tune that the engine would not run. In my thinking, static is only used to get the timing onto the right map page, enabling the engine to be started and then tuned more precisely by other means. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt Sent: 11 February 2017 21:33 To: Oudesluys Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor I am probably showing my ignorance on ignition theory but I have never understood the concern with static timing versus dynamic (total) timing when the car is running. Since the amount of centrifugal advance is not adjustable why am I concerned with what the initial static timing is? So long as the distributor is oriented correctly and I am in the ballpark--usually verified by the engine's starting--all I do is set total timing at 3000 rpms's. If I am missing something I would appreciate learning what that is. Best--Michael Oritt Set the crankshaft at the desired static ignition timing. Set the distributor housing with the rotor in the approximate position of no.1 cylinder on its compression stroke, then slightly back. Switch on the ignition and turn the distributor forwards until you hear the faint click of the spark. Switch of the ignition immediately. That would be fine for fine tuning the timing dynamically. Do not leave on the electronic ignition unnecessary, it may get damaged if left on for a long time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-2-2017 om 8:21 schreef Simon Lachlan: We?re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a positive earth BJ8. The timing may be all to hell. I?m in the UK; the car?s in Paris. Let?s say that the clamp bolts ?may somehow have got loosened? during the initially successful swap from points to Ignitor the other day. (Yes, it?s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in the boot when the car was delivered.) Now, I?ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static Timing etc with a view that we may have to go down that track, if it proves that we have air, fuel and spark but not necessarily in the right order! I?ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is primarily a Good Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting information. For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be static timed. Another source implies that all EI?s, including Ignitor IIs, can be timed by putting a multimeter across the coil?s primary connections. Another one says:- ?To begin the timing exercise you must statically time the engine at around 10 degrees BTDC. With the engine at 10 degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the distributor so that the points are just about to open or in the case of an electronic distributor so that the stator and rotor tips are just aligning. Lock the distributor enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum advance retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start the engine and let it idle, adjust the timing with the engine running to 10 degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.? (Ignore the 10? advice.) With reference to an Ignitor?..does this apply? And what is the ?stator?? I can ?assume? that it?s the little curved black box of tricks? Does this or could this apply to the Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate??one would have assume that the critical alignment point in the ?stator? was prec.isely in the centre of the inside of the curve??..... I suppose one could try the voltmeter across the coil method and see where the rotor was in relation to the ?stator??? Any Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I?ve timed them, but never had to go back to Stage One ie I?ve used a timing light and made adjustments to a running engine rather than go back to basics where the timing is completely out and the engine won?t fire at all. Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris! Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Feb 12 10:15:58 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 18:15:58 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor References: <000001d28437$69772790$3c6576b0$@homecall.co.uk> <5cf137c8-1746-97a6-8dcf-2d5a59862980@chello.nl> <000001d28526$54eff870$fecfe950$@homecall.co.uk> Not quite, setting the static timing was the only means at the time and the instructions should be accurate. Nowadays it is more convenient to set the timing dynamically, but without vacuum and at stationary revs, which is in most cases the same as the static timing. The so called fine tuning is in practice irrelevant except when the car is tuned on a rolling road. However you can check if the centrifugal advance mechanism is working properly by keeping the engine on e.g. 2500 or 3000rpm and check what advance is indicated. Disconnect the vacuum line for this though. The vacuum advance/retard, if fitted, is only in operation at low load. Kees Oudesluijs Op 12-2-2017 om 12:51 schreef Simon Lachlan: > > In this instance, static timing would precede dynamic timing because > the car was so far out of tune that the engine would not run. > > In my thinking, static is only used to get the timing onto the right > map page, enabling the engine to be started and then tuned more > precisely by other means. > > Simon > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael Oritt > *Sent:* 11 February 2017 21:33 > *To:* Oudesluys > *Cc:* Austin Healey > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor > > I am probably showing my ignorance on ignition theory but I have never > understood the concern with static timing versus dynamic (total) > timing when the car is running. Since the amount of centrifugal > advance is not adjustable why am I concerned with what the initial > static timing is? > > So long as the distributor is oriented correctly and I am in the > ballpark--usually verified by the engine's starting--all I do is set > total timing at 3000 rpms's. > > If I am missing something I would appreciate learning what that is. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 7:02 AM, Oudesluys > Set the crankshaft at the desired static ignition timing. Set the > distributor housing with the rotor in the approximate position of > no.1 cylinder on its compression stroke, then slightly back. > Switch on the ignition and turn the distributor forwards until you > hear the faint click of the spark. Switch of the ignition > immediately. That would be fine for fine tuning the timing > dynamically. > Do not leave on the electronic ignition unnecessary, it may get > damaged if left on for a long time. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 11-2-2017 om 8:21 schreef Simon Lachlan: > > We?re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a > positive earth BJ8. > > The timing may be all to hell. I?m in the UK; the car?s in Paris. > > Let?s say that the clamp bolts ?may somehow have got loosened? > during the initially successful swap from points to Ignitor > the other day. > > (Yes, it?s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in > the boot when the car was delivered.) > > Now, I?ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static > Timing etc with a view that we may have to go down that track, > if it proves that we have air, fuel and spark but not > necessarily in the right order! > > I?ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is > primarily a Good Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting > information. > > For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be > static timed. Another source implies that all EI?s, including > Ignitor IIs, can be timed by putting a multimeter across the > coil?s primary connections. > > Another one says:- ?To begin the timing exercise you must > statically time the engine at around *10* degrees BTDC. With > the engine at *10* degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the > distributor so that the points are just about to open or in > the case of an electronic distributor */_so that the stator > and rotor tips are just aligning_/*. Lock the distributor > enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum advance > retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start the engine > and let it idle, adjust the timing with the engine running to > *10* degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.? > > (Ignore the 10? advice.) With reference to an Ignitor?..does > this apply? And what is the ?stator?? I can ?assume? that it?s > the little curved black box of tricks? Does this or could this > apply to the Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate??one would have > assume that the critical alignment point in the ?stator? was > prec.isely in the centre of the inside of the curve??..... I > suppose one could try the voltmeter across the coil method and > see where the rotor was in relation to the ?stator??? Any > > Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I?ve timed > them, but never had to go back to Stage One ie I?ve used a > timing light and made adjustments to a running engine rather > than go back to basics where the timing is completely out and > the engine won?t fire at all. > > Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris! > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums:http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Feb 12 10:46:52 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 17:46:52 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Randy Randy, Can you please contact me off list. Have a 100/4 question. Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ What's the Best Crossovers for 2017 money-rankings.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/58a09fc56c2a71fc55a51st01duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah3000me at gmail.com Sun Feb 12 11:00:04 2017 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 13:00:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> <000001d283d8$54cb2620$fe617260$@verizon.net> <5e398f3a-14ec-2762-b107-2e6197b13282@comcast.net> So, even if you manage to get the nut loose without lifting the engine, the nut will get stuck on the crossmember as you undo it? - Tom On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Did this a couple years ago. You'll need to pull the radiator, detach the > throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the engine mounts (at the > bottom). Don't lift at the pan unless you're able to spread the load > considerably. > > It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the > crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts. My engine rebuilder just > pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is open to the > crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread sealant on it. Unless > your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to use some sort of sealant on the > gasket. > > The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should have been > torqued to 150lb-ft. You have to lift the engine enough for this nut, and > whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the crossmember. I used a 3/4" > impact wrench, and couldn't get the socket on straight and ended up > mangling the nut pretty bad. > > Bob > > On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: > > I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would > someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the engine to raise > it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Simon Lachlan > *Sent:* Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener > > > > Hi, > > I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. > I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the > net. I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in > the future when I might get round to actually doing it. > > So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this > prompted me to dig out the article/notes. > > First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere > near the fuel tank. > > Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and began > to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. > > Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on > the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language > that I can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come down the > Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And > wouldn?t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally > unaffected by the capacitor? > > Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations > cannot bypass it? > > Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without > understanding it. Maybe I think too much. > > Simon > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@ > knology.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Sun Feb 12 11:24:39 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 13:24:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Arm rest References: Does anyone have one or a picture or viewable information on the arm rest with the lift up lid that was available on the BJ8 phase I cars. I am interested is seeing what it was, if it was useful and comments on why it was discontinued. It seems to me that many people are adding cup holders and "cubbies" of one sort or another and since my arm rest needs to be redone, it may make some sense to duplicate the original. Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 63 BJ7 deceased -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Feb 12 13:00:08 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 12:00:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> <000001d283d8$54cb2620$fe617260$@verizon.net> <5e398f3a-14ec-2762-b107-2e6197b13282@comcast.net> You can loosen the nut with an open end wrench and engine torque. Once loosened, you can then proceed disconnecting everything and lifting the engine. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 10:00 AM To: Bob Spidell Cc: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket So, even if you manage to get the nut loose without lifting the engine, the nut will get stuck on the crossmember as you undo it? - Tom Did this a couple years ago. You'll need to pull the radiator, detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the engine mounts (at the bottom). Don't lift at the pan unless you're able to spread the load considerably. It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts. My engine rebuilder just pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is open to the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread sealant on it. Unless your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to use some sort of sealant on the gasket. The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should have been torqued to 150lb-ft. You have to lift the engine enough for this nut, and whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the crossmember. I used a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the socket on straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad. Bob On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the engine to raise it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks. Regards, Charlie From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener Hi, I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it. So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank. Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it? Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much. Simon _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Feb 12 13:18:31 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 12:18:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor References: <000001d28437$69772790$3c6576b0$@homecall.co.uk> <5cf137c8-1746-97a6-8dcf-2d5a59862980@chello.nl> <000001d28526$54eff870$fecfe950$@homecall.co.uk> <64379d41-809a-1362-ade8-6d1105dce414@chello.nl> "... The vacuum advance/retard, if fitted, is only in operation at low load." This is something I've wondered about. This is true for 'manifold' vacuum, but the vacuum pickup off a Healey's SU carbs is near the throttle, which I believe is called 'port' vacuum. If my knowledge of Bournelli is correct, this vacuum is created by air moving over the port, and increases with airflow. Please advise. Bob On 2/12/2017 9:15 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Not quite, setting the static timing was the only means at the time > and the instructions should be accurate. Nowadays it is more > convenient to set the timing dynamically, but without vacuum and at > stationary revs, which is in most cases the same as the static timing. > The so called fine tuning is in practice irrelevant except when the > car is tuned on a rolling road. However you can check if the > centrifugal advance mechanism is working properly by keeping the > engine on e.g. 2500 or 3000rpm and check what advance is indicated. > Disconnect the vacuum line for this though. The vacuum advance/retard, > if fitted, is only in operation at low load. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 12-2-2017 om 12:51 schreef Simon Lachlan: >> >> In this instance, static timing would precede dynamic timing because >> the car was so far out of tune that the engine would not run. >> >> In my thinking, static is only used to get the timing onto the right >> map page, enabling the engine to be started and then tuned more >> precisely by other means. >> >> Simon >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Feb 12 13:24:03 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 15:24:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Arm rest References: Here are a few, Fred. The Phase 1 cubbybox armrest used a console with a longer "tail" than the Phase 2 configuration. It looks possible to add the cubbybox to the Phase 2 console with enough room in front for a cup holder. I've considered a project like that myself and even made a model for it but I haven't carried through yet. The cubbybox lid is hinged at the rear. No idea why it was discontinued unless it was just to save a few bob in production. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 1:25 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Arm rest Does anyone have one or a picture or viewable information on the arm rest with the lift up lid that was available on the BJ8 phase I cars. I am interested is seeing what it was, if it was useful and comments on why it was discontinued. It seems to me that many people are adding cup holders and "cubbies" of one sort or another and since my arm rest needs to be redone, it may make some sense to duplicate the original. Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 63 BJ7 deceased _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13907 - Release Date: 02/07/17 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 25366 - CP.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 181641 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 25453 - CP.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 692226 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 25507 - CP.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 106753 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Feb 12 13:30:10 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 12:30:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> <000001d283d8$54cb2620$fe617260$@verizon.net> <5e398f3a-14ec-2762-b107-2e6197b13282@comcast.net> No ... I just couldn't get a straight shot to the nut with the impact wrench to loosen it. Once it's loose it'll clear the crossmember; you have to lift the engine to get the balancer/pulley off. bs On 2/12/2017 10:00 AM, Tom wrote: > > So, even if you manage to get the nut loose without lifting the > engine, the nut will get stuck on the crossmember as you undo it? > > - Tom > > > On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Bob Spidell > Did this a couple years ago. You'll need to pull the radiator, > detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the > engine mounts (at the bottom). Don't lift at the pan unless you're > able to spread the load considerably. > > It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the > crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts. My engine rebuilder > just pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is > open to the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread > sealant on it. Unless your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to > use some sort of sealant on the gasket. > > The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should > have been torqued to 150lb-ft. You have to lift the engine enough > for this nut, and whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the > crossmember. I used a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the > socket on straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad. > > Bob > > > On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: >> I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8. >> Would someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the >> engine to raise it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. >> Thanks. >> Regards, >> Charlie >> >> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net >> *Sent:* Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM >> *To:* 'Healey List' >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener >> >> Hi, >> >> I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my >> fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if >> I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it >> appropriately against some day in the future when I might get >> round to actually doing it. >> >> So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and >> this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. >> >> First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor >> anywhere near the fuel tank. >> >> Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully >> and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. >> >> Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two >> terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it >> crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the >> fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender >> unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those >> fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally >> unaffected by the capacitor? >> >> Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the >> fluctuations cannot bypass it? >> >> Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without >> understanding it. Maybe I think too much. >> >> Simon >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net >> http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: >> http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> >> > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: > http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwhlyadv at aol.com Sun Feb 12 15:11:57 2017 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 17:11:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors and he likes the OEW sample in the book. The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that transferable to other brands or how does this work? Jim Werner -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Sun Feb 12 18:44:33 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 19:44:33 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. Keith On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors and he likes the OEW sample in the book. The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that transferable to other brands or how does this work? Jim Werner _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From kags at shaw.ca Sun Feb 12 20:51:58 2017 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 19:51:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <26359655.4890428.1486950273995.JavaMail.root@vznit170064.mailsrvcs.net> Jim: Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages to those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. The OEW sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I have one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW paint, and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the original sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your friend. I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic colour to deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint is ever damaged in the future. Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the explanation of the whole thing - not the colour. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb -----Original Message----- From: llennep at verizon.net Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM To: jwhlyadv at aol.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. Keith On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors and he likes the OEW sample in the book. The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that transferable to other brands or how does this work? Jim Werner _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Feb 12 21:58:46 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 20:58:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <26359655.4890428.1486950273995.JavaMail.root@vznit170064.mailsrvcs.net> <308DA978815F4C6CA8C2643903A78378@KagsLaptop> Those colors are on a lot of pages. What are the page numbers of the modified ones? John Spaur '62 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Earl Kagna Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 7:52 PM To: llennep at verizon.net; jwhlyadv at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide Jim: Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages to those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page... Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From kags at shaw.ca Sun Feb 12 22:45:04 2017 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 21:45:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <26359655.4890428.1486950273995.JavaMail.root@vznit170064.mailsrvcs.net> <308DA978815F4C6CA8C2643903A78378@KagsLaptop> <002701d285b5$dc1341b0$9439c510$@sbcglobal.net> John - the modified page is not numbered. -- Earl -----Original Message----- From: John Spaur Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 8:58 PM To: 'Earl Kagna' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Color Guide Those colors are on a lot of pages. What are the page numbers of the modified ones? John Spaur '62 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Earl Kagna Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 7:52 PM To: llennep at verizon.net; jwhlyadv at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide Jim: Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages to those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page... Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun Feb 12 23:26:40 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (s.hutchings at rogers.com) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 07:26:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Arm rest References: <023e01d2856d$f4381010$dca83030$@rr.com> Funny this should come up.I've just been making a new armrest with cubby and cup holder, but I'm on the road for a few weeks, so I can't send photos at the moment. I also plan to put a USB port for charging phones, iPad, etc. Stephen, BJ8 Sent from my iPad > On Feb 12, 2017, at 9:24 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > Here are a few, Fred. The Phase 1 cubbybox armrest used a console with a longer "tail" than the Phase 2 configuration. It looks possible to add the cubbybox to the Phase 2 console with enough room in front for a cup holder. I've considered a project like that myself and even made a model for it but I haven't carried through yet. The cubbybox lid is hinged at the rear. > No idea why it was discontinued unless it was just to save a few bob in production. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe > Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 1:25 PM > To: healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Arm rest > > Does anyone have one or a picture or viewable information on the arm rest with the lift up lid that was available on the BJ8 phase I cars. I am interested is seeing what it was, if it was useful and comments on why it was discontinued. It seems to me that many people are adding cup holders and "cubbies" of one sort or another and since my arm rest needs to be redone, it may make some sense to duplicate the original. > > Thanks, > > Fred > 66 BJ8 > 63 BJ7 deceased > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13907 - Release Date: 02/07/17 > <25366 - CP.jpg> > <25453 - CP.jpg> > <25507 - CP.jpg> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Mon Feb 13 07:22:32 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 09:22:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com> Wow - sounds like good news overall! Any idea of what would have prevented this? In other words, is there a method that is preferable to the hot tank when doing an engine? Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 7:02 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn't dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM Subject: Off comes the head... Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Mon Feb 13 13:02:49 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 20:02:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com>, <038f01d28604$aadf7c90$009e75b0$@bighealey.org> My 2660 had a major leak from the oil system into the coolant system. Evidently the oil pressure would force oil one way while the engine was running, but their was enough resistance to keep the coolant from flowing the other way when the engine was warm and under pressure. Thus I had oil in the coolant, but no coolant in the oil. Oil contamination can cause sludge to form in the coolant system. On rebuild the machinist discovered that the block had been improperly machined resulting in a 0.012" difference from corner to corner. The oil passage between the block and head is a critical area anyway with some engines having chronic oil and/or coolant leaks to the exterior of the engine at the number plate. I'm sure the poorly machined block didn't help. With a little more care in getting the proper deck dimensions and block and head surface preparation, and using a Denis Welch MLS gasket I hope to cure both of these problems. Not running yet, but we will see. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Al Fuller Sent: Monday, February 13, 2017 2:22:32 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update Wow ? sounds like good news overall! Any idea of what would have prevented this? In other words, is there a method that is preferable to the hot tank when doing an engine? Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 7:02 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM Subject: Off comes the head... Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwhlyadv at aol.com Mon Feb 13 14:55:45 2017 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 16:55:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide Thanks Earl, I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems color matching the samples is the way to go. Jim Werner -----Original Message----- From: Earl Kagna To: llennep ; jwhlyadv ; healeys Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide Jim: Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages to those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. The OEW sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I have one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW paint, and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the original sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your friend. I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic colour to deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint is ever damaged in the future. Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the explanation of the whole thing - not the colour. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb -----Original Message----- From: llennep at verizon.net Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM To: jwhlyadv at aol.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. Keith On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors and he likes the OEW sample in the book. The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that transferable to other brands or how does this work? Jim Werner _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Feb 13 16:48:42 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 18:48:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <15a39797344-7c83-6b4c@webprd-m42.mail.aol.com> Jim, There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. I used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the wheels of our Mini some years ago. Just another possibility. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: > Thanks Earl, > > I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems > color matching the samples is the way to go. > > *Jim Werner* > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Earl Kagna > To: llennep ; jwhlyadv ; healeys > > Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > Jim: > > Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book > came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages to > those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. The OEW > sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I have > one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW paint, > and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the original > sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your friend. > > I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto > paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their > 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my > Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint > manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match > for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic colour to > deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint is ever > damaged in the future. > > Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the explanation of > the whole thing - not the colour. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BJ8, BT7 tri-carb > > -----Original Message----- > Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. > > Keith > > > On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: > > I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint > information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors > and he > likes the OEW sample in the book. > > > > > > > The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that > transferable to other brands or how does this work? > > > > > > > > Jim Werner > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From schottc at knology.net Mon Feb 13 17:16:50 2017 From: schottc at knology.net (Charlie Schott) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 18:16:50 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <15a39797344-7c83-6b4c@webprd-m42.mail.aol.com> <58A245DA.3010500@earthlink.net> I was able to cross reference the color to Ditzler #8177. Regards, Charlie -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell Sent: Monday, February 13, 2017 5:48 PM To: Jim Werner ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide Jim, There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. I used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the wheels of our Mini some years ago. Just another possibility. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: > Thanks Earl, > > I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems > color matching the samples is the way to go. > > *Jim Werner* > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Earl Kagna > To: llennep ; jwhlyadv ; healeys > > Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > Jim: > > Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book > came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages > to > those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. The > OEW > sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I have > one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW paint, > and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the original > sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your > friend. > > I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto > paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their > 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my > Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint > manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match > for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic colour to > deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint is > ever > damaged in the future. > > Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the explanation > of > the whole thing - not the colour. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BJ8, BT7 tri-carb > > -----Original Message----- > Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. > > Keith > > > On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: > > I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint > information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors > and he > likes the OEW sample in the book. > > > > > > > The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that > transferable to other brands or how does this work? > > > > > > > > Jim Werner > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Feb 13 17:21:18 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 16:21:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <15a39797344-7c83-6b4c@webprd-m42.mail.aol.com> <58A245DA.3010500@earthlink.net> Wimbeldon White. Big discussion here: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108635-Advice-Needed On 2/13/2017 3:48 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Jim, > > There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. > I used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the > wheels of our Mini some years ago. Just another possibility. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: >> Thanks Earl, >> >> I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems >> color matching the samples is the way to go. >> >> *Jim Werner* >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Earl Kagna >> To: llennep ; jwhlyadv ; healeys >> >> Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide >> >> Jim: >> >> Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the >> book >> came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised >> pages to >> those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. >> The OEW >> sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I >> have >> one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW >> paint, >> and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the >> original >> sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your >> friend. >> >> I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent >> auto >> paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their >> 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my >> Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint >> manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect >> match >> for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic >> colour to >> deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint >> is ever >> damaged in the future. >> >> Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the >> explanation of >> the whole thing - not the colour. >> >> Earl Kagna >> Victoria, B.C. >> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb >> >> -----Original Message----- >> Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide >> >> The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. >> >> Keith >> >> >> On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: >> >> I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint >> information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors >> and he >> likes the OEW sample in the book. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that >> transferable to other brands or how does this work? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Jim Werner >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > From mark at bradakis.com Mon Feb 13 23:45:44 2017 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 23:45:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Selling my 1960 BT7 References: To send mail to healeys at autox.team.net, you send mail to healeys at autox.team.net. mjb. -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: Selling my 1960 BT7 Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 21:21:17 -0800 From: Mark Fawcett Listers, I'm considering selling my 1960 BT7. (HBT7 L 862). It's an early 3000 with about 75000 miles ( 20000 or so on a rebuilt engine). Primrose over OEW. Restored by me between 1999-2003. The finish is showing some wear, but it's a driver not a show piece (a 10 footer). This is a car that has been updated in many areas. I thought I'd put this out there to the list before I put it on Ebay or where ever. I'm interested in getting opinions on value. Photos on request. If this is not an appropriate use of the list, I apologize and please disregard. Mark Fawcett British Heritage Certificate (built Apr 1959) Heritage leather interior. Biscuit Lempert wood steering wheel New SU carbs (at time of restoration) Re-cored radiator w/ Texas Cooler fan Toyota 5 speed. transmission. 3:54 differential Alternator (GM) with a Lucas alternator spare K & N air filters Denso gear reduction drive starter 123 Ignition electronic distributor Spin on oil filter Falcon stainless steel exhaust system 72 spoke chrome/stainless steel wheels New tires Bilstein shocks Car cover Tonneau cover Side curtains Lots of receipts Additional spare parts included From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Feb 14 00:02:49 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 07:02:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <15a39797344-7c83-6b4c@webprd-m42.mail.aol.com> <58A245DA.3010500@earthlink.net> I believe the Ford color that is the closest to OEW is Wimbleton White.? It is found on 60s era Ford cars and trucks.Mike MacLean On Monday, February 13, 2017 4:18 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: Jim, There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. I used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the wheels of our Mini some years ago.? Just another possibility. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: > Thanks Earl, > > I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems > color matching the samples is the way to go. > > *Jim Werner* > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Earl Kagna > To: llennep ; jwhlyadv ; healeys > > Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > Jim: > > Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book > came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages to > those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. The OEW > sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I have > one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW paint, > and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the original > sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your friend. > > I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto > paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their > 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my > Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint > manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match > for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic colour to > deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint is ever > damaged in the future. > > Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the explanation of > the whole thing - not the colour. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BJ8, BT7 tri-carb > > -----Original Message----- > Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. > > Keith > > > On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: > > I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint > information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors > and he > likes the OEW sample in the book. > > > > > > > The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that > transferable to other brands or how does this work? > > > > > > > > Jim Werner > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Feb 14 00:29:04 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 07:29:04 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please BJ8 with combined side/indicators/brake lights. NOT the late phase II with the extra lights. So,.the relay. By this I mean the round silver can with 1 wire from P to the dash, 1 from B to the 35 amp feed & 1 from L to T8 on the dreaded 8-way flasher relay box. Now, the LHS indicators work and the RHS don't. Well, they've worked occasionally. My question is this:- If one side works, then the relay works?? There's no way that the relay can function on one side only? It sends current down one wire only, so, if the LHS works, then the relay is doing its job????? Right????? I remain very prepared to be confounded. My logic(?) usually fails when I'm in front of a wiring diagram. In fact, I would be thrilled just to be able to fix the problem with a cheap part. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Feb 14 00:34:56 2017 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 07:34:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <15a39797344-7c83-6b4c@webprd-m42.mail.aol.com> <58A245DA.3010500@earthlink.net> For me the most important thing to remember is that it is virtually impossible to get the 'right' colour. Remember that the paints themselves are now completely different chemically, plus the same paint codes mixed using different paint manufacturers will produce slightly different results. Comparing to 'original' paint samples is also fraught with difficulty as old paints were unstable and faded quicker. I think we all have a good idea of what the basic 8 or nine colours should look like. Look around and find a paint mix that you like which is close to one of the original colours and go with that. I don't think I have ever seen two Healey Blue cars that are actually the same colour. Derek On Mon, Feb 13, 2017 at 11:48 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Jim, > > There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. I > used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the wheels of > our Mini some years ago. Just another possibility. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: > >> Thanks Earl, >> >> I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems >> color matching the samples is the way to go. >> >> *Jim Werner* >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Earl Kagna >> To: llennep ; jwhlyadv ; healeys >> >> Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide >> >> Jim: >> >> Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book >> came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages >> to >> those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. The >> OEW >> sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I have >> one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW paint, >> and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the original >> sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your >> friend. >> >> I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto >> paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their >> 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my >> Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint >> manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match >> for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic colour to >> deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint is >> ever >> damaged in the future. >> >> Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the explanation >> of >> the whole thing - not the colour. >> >> Earl Kagna >> Victoria, B.C. >> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb >> >> -----Original Message----- >> Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide >> >> The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. >> >> Keith >> >> >> On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: >> >> I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint >> information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors >> and he >> likes the OEW sample in the book. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that >> transferable to other brands or how does this work? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Jim Werner >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Tue Feb 14 02:29:16 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 09:29:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please References: <001d01d28694$05999a00$10ccce00$@homecall.co.uk> Hang on there Simon... we are talking about a flasher unit... your little round can with 3 terminals...... and the relay... with 8 terminals. So, in your case the flasher unit is working fine however, there seems to be a problem with the relay because when LHS is called for the contacts for both the front and rear bulbs close but, for the other side probably only one pair of contacts are closing. This can be determined by observing which, i.e. front or rear, bulb is lighting. The "relay" probably needs adjustment. This is a littie like brain surgery... takes a little practice. Best of luck. Michael S BN1 #174 From: Simon Lachlan Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 9:11 PM Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please To: Healey List Cc: Pierre Henri Claret BJ8 with combined side/indicators/brake lights. NOT the late phase II with the extra lights. So,?the relay. By this I mean the round silver can with 1 wire from P to the dash, 1 from B to the 35 amp feed & 1 from L to T8 on the dreaded 8-way flasher relay box. Now, the LHS indicators work and the RHS don?t. Well, they?ve worked occasionally. My question is this:- If one side works, then the relay works?? There?s no way that the relay can function on one side only? It sends current down one wire only, so, if the LHS works, then the relay is doing its job????? Right????? ? I remain very prepared to be confounded. My logic(?) usually fails when I?m in front of a wiring diagram. In fact, I would be thrilled just to be able to fix the problem with a cheap part. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Feb 14 02:30:31 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 09:30:31 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <15a39797344-7c83-6b4c@webprd-m42.mail.aol.com> <58A245DA.3010500@earthlink.net> Agreed absolutely. Ditto for Colorado Red. Shades of orange in some, less in others??etcetc. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Derek Job Sent: 14 February 2017 07:35 To: Bob Haskell Cc: Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide For me the most important thing to remember is that it is virtually impossible to get the 'right' colour. Remember that the paints themselves are now completely different chemically, plus the same paint codes mixed using different paint manufacturers will produce slightly different results. Comparing to 'original' paint samples is also fraught with difficulty as old paints were unstable and faded quicker. I think we all have a good idea of what the basic 8 or nine colours should look like. Look around and find a paint mix that you like which is close to one of the original colours and go with that. I don't think I have ever seen two Healey Blue cars that are actually the same colour. Derek Jim, There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. I used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the wheels of our Mini some years ago. Just another possibility. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: Thanks Earl, I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems color matching the samples is the way to go. *Jim Werner* -----Original Message----- Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide Jim: Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages to those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. The OEW sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I have one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW paint, and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the original sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your friend. I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic colour to deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint is ever damaged in the future. Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the explanation of the whole thing - not the colour. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb -----Original Message----- Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. Keith On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors and he likes the OEW sample in the book. The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that transferable to other brands or how does this work? Jim Werner _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Feb 14 03:39:16 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 05:39:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <15a39797344-7c83-6b4c@webprd-m42.mail.aol.com> <58A245DA.3010500@earthlink.net> <383491938.3999617.1487055769349@mail.yahoo.com> Bob and Michael, Thanks for correcting my faulty memory. I remembered that it was an English name and I ran across Oxford White in a brief Google search. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 02/14/2017 02:02 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I believe the Ford color that is the closest to OEW is Wimbleton White. > It is found on 60s era Ford cars and trucks. > Mike MacLean > > > On Monday, February 13, 2017 4:18 PM, Bob Haskell > wrote: > > > Jim, > > There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. > I used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the wheels > of our Mini some years ago. Just another possibility. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: > > Thanks Earl, > > > > I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems > > color matching the samples is the way to go. > > > > *Jim Werner* > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > > > Jim: > > > > Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the > book > > came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised > pages to > > those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. > The OEW > > sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I > have > > one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW > paint, > > and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the > original > > sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your > friend. > > > > I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto > > paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their > > 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my > > Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint > > manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match > > for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic > colour to > > deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint > is ever > > damaged in the future. > > > > Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the > explanation of > > the whole thing - not the colour. > > > > Earl Kagna > > Victoria, B.C. > > BJ8, BT7 tri-carb > > > > -----Original Message----- > > Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > > > The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. > > > > Keith > > > > > > On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: > > > > I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint > > information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors > > and he > > likes the OEW sample in the book. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that > > transferable to other brands or how does this work? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Jim Werner > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Tue Feb 14 06:59:54 2017 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 13:59:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please References: <001d01d28694$05999a00$10ccce00$@homecall.co.uk> This is a recreation of the BT7 wiring diagram in ladder logic format (there's one for positive ground and one for negative). The only difference is the reversing of the coil connections to maintain the same direction of current to the spark plugs. It is not accurate for a BJ8, but is accurate with respect to the "8-way flasher box relay", so maybe it can help you sort out the problem. Edward J. O'Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O'Neal Associates, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 phone: (239) 245-8728 cell: (239) 410-6174 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 2:29 AM To: 'Healey List' Cc: Pierre Henri Claret Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please BJ8 with combined side/indicators/brake lights. NOT the late phase II with the extra lights. So,...the relay. By this I mean the round silver can with 1 wire from P to the dash, 1 from B to the 35 amp feed & 1 from L to T8 on the dreaded 8-way flasher relay box. Now, the LHS indicators work and the RHS don't. Well, they've worked occasionally. My question is this:- If one side works, then the relay works?? There's no way that the relay can function on one side only? It sends current down one wire only, so, if the LHS works, then the relay is doing its job????? Right????? I remain very prepared to be confounded. My logic(?) usually fails when I'm in front of a wiring diagram. In fact, I would be thrilled just to be able to fix the problem with a cheap part. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BN6 BN7 BT7 & BJ7 wiring ladder logic diagram.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 45927 bytes Desc: BN6 BN7 BT7 & BJ7 wiring ladder logic diagram.pdf URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BN6 BN7 BT7 & BJ7 wiring ladder logic diagram (neg ground).pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 48556 bytes Desc: BN6 BN7 BT7 & BJ7 wiring ladder logic diagram (neg ground).pdf URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Feb 14 08:50:30 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 07:50:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please References: <001d01d28694$05999a00$10ccce00$@homecall.co.uk> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.50aa8ab5-807f-4fe4-b129-67412dd3b546@mail.outlook.com> Before you tear into the relay box, check that the proper terminal on the box is getting voltage when the RH turn indicator is selected. On my BN2, this is terminal #4, and I wouldn't be surprised if it's not the same as your BJ8 (but can't verify). The relay is sealed with spot welds, which will have to be drilled out if you need to do brain surgery. The trafficators have a sliding 'switch'--really, just a piece of brass that gets moved over a brass terminal when an indicator side is selected--and if this gets out of whack you will get the same result. I got into mine to, ahem, 'improve' it, messed up this 'switch' and got one side to work and not the other. Bob On 2/14/2017 1:29 AM, michael.salter at gmail.com wrote: > > Hang on there Simon... we are talking about a flasher unit... your > little round can with 3 terminals...... and the relay... with 8 > terminals. > So, in your case the flasher unit is working fine however, there seems > to be a problem with the relay because when LHS is called for the > contacts for both the front and rear bulbs close but, for the other > side probably only one pair of contacts are closing. > This can be determined by observing which, i.e. front or rear, bulb is > lighting. > The "relay" probably needs adjustment. > This is a littie like brain surgery... takes a little practice. > Best of luck. > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > From: Simon Lachlan > Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 9:11 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please > To: Healey List > Cc: Pierre Henri Claret > > BJ8 with combined side/indicators/brake lights. NOT the late phase II > with the extra lights. > > So,?the relay. By this I mean the round silver can with 1 wire from P > to the dash, 1 from B to the 35 amp feed & 1 from L to T8 on the > dreaded 8-way flasher relay box. > > Now, the LHS indicators work and the RHS don?t. Well, they?ve worked > occasionally. My question is this:- > > If one side works, then the relay works?? There?s no way that the > relay can function on one side only? It sends current down one wire > only, so, if the LHS works, then the relay is doing its job????? > Right????? > > I remain very prepared to be confounded. My logic(?) usually fails > when I?m in front of a wiring diagram. In fact, I would be thrilled > just to be able to fix the problem with a cheap part. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Feb 14 09:50:38 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 16:50:38 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts Does anyone know if the rocker cover nuts from an A series Mini would fit a 3000? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.fawcett at cox.net Tue Feb 14 09:54:03 2017 From: m.fawcett at cox.net (Mark Fawcett) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 08:54:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Selling my 1960 BT7 Listers, I'm considering selling my 1960 BT7. (HBT7 L 862). It's an early 3000 with about 75000 miles ( 20000 or so on a rebuilt engine). Primrose over OEW. Restored by me between 1999-2003. The finish is showing some wear, but it's a driver not a show piece (a 10 footer). This is a car that has been updated in many areas. I thought I'd put this out there to the list before I put it on Ebay or where ever. I'm interested in getting opinions on value. Photos on request. If this is not an appropriate use of the list, I apologize and please disregard. Mark Fawcett British Heritage Certificate (built Apr 1959) Heritage leather interior. Biscuit Lempert wood steering wheel New SU carbs (at time of restoration) Re-cored radiator w/ Texas Cooler fan Toyota 5 speed. transmission. 3:54 differential Alternator (GM) with a Lucas alternator spare K & N air filters Denso gear reduction drive starter 123 Ignition electronic distributor Spin on oil filter Falcon stainless steel exhaust system 72 spoke chrome/stainless steel wheels New tires Bilstein shocks Car cover Tonneau cover Side curtains Lots of receipts Additional spare parts included -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Feb 14 13:06:16 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 15:06:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts References: <008901d286e2$78a202a0$69e607e0$@homecall.co.uk> If the A-series Mini uses the same engine as the 1275 MG Midget the answer is NO. The studs for the 1275 are much smaller than those for the 3000. As it happens, I'm out here in the garage next to the BJ8 taking apart my '73 Midget for a total repaint so it was easy to check that. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 11:51 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts Does anyone know if the rocker cover nuts from an A series Mini would fit a 3000? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Feb 14 15:00:32 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 14:00:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Selling my 1960 BT7 References: Where you located? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Feb 14, 2017 at 8:54 AM, Mark Fawcett wrote: > Listers, > > I'm considering selling my 1960 BT7. (HBT7 L 862). It's an early 3000 with > about 75000 miles ( 20000 or so on a rebuilt engine). Primrose over OEW. > Restored by me between 1999-2003. The finish is showing some wear, but it's > a driver not a show piece (a 10 footer). This is a car that has been > updated in many areas. I thought I'd put this out there to the list before > I put it on Ebay or where ever. I'm interested in getting opinions on > value. Photos on request. If this is not an appropriate use of the list, I > apologize and please disregard. > > Mark Fawcett > > > British Heritage Certificate (built Apr 1959) > > Heritage leather interior. Biscuit > > Lempert wood steering wheel > > New SU carbs (at time of restoration) > > Re-cored radiator w/ Texas Cooler fan > > Toyota 5 speed. transmission. > > 3:54 differential > > Alternator (GM) with a Lucas alternator spare > > K & N air filters > > Denso gear reduction drive starter > > 123 Ignition electronic distributor > > Spin on oil filter > > Falcon stainless steel exhaust system > > 72 spoke chrome/stainless steel wheels > > New tires > > Bilstein shocks > > Car cover > > Tonneau cover > > Side curtains > > Lots of receipts > > Additional spare parts included > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwhlyadv at aol.com Tue Feb 14 16:17:37 2017 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 18:17:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide Oddly enough the poster is from Louisville Ky! Jim Werner Louisville, KY -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys Sent: Mon, Feb 13, 2017 8:36 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide Wimbeldon White. Big discussion here: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108635-Advice-Needed On 2/13/2017 3:48 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Jim, > > There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. > I used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the > wheels of our Mini some years ago. Just another possibility. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: >> Thanks Earl, >> >> I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems >> color matching the samples is the way to go. >> >> *Jim Werner* >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Earl Kagna >> To: llennep ; jwhlyadv ; healeys >> >> Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide >> >> Jim: >> >> Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the >> book >> came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised >> pages to >> those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. >> The OEW >> sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I >> have >> one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW >> paint, >> and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the >> original >> sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your >> friend. >> >> I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent >> auto >> paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their >> 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my >> Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint >> manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect >> match >> for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic >> colour to >> deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint >> is ever >> damaged in the future. >> >> Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the >> explanation of >> the whole thing - not the colour. >> >> Earl Kagna >> Victoria, B.C. >> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb >> >> -----Original Message----- >> Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide >> >> The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. >> >> Keith >> >> >> On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: >> >> I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint >> information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors >> and he >> likes the OEW sample in the book. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that >> transferable to other brands or how does this work? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Jim Werner >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue Feb 14 17:03:27 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 14:03:27 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts References: <008901d286e2$78a202a0$69e607e0$@homecall.co.uk> No, they are different. Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Tue, Feb 14, 2017 at 6:50 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > Does anyone know if the rocker cover nuts from an A series Mini would fit > a 3000? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Feb 14 18:35:20 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 12:35:20 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts References: <008901d286e2$78a202a0$69e607e0$@homecall.co.uk> No, but the oil filler cap fits. So I f you want a chrome one etc. look for A or B series. Chris Sent from my iPhone > On 15 Feb. 2017, at 3:50 am, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Does anyone know if the rocker cover nuts from an A series Mini would fit a 3000? > Thanks, > Simon > _______________________________________________ > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Feb 14 23:49:44 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 06:49:44 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts References: <008901d286e2$78a202a0$69e607e0$@homecall.co.uk> Thanks for the replies re the rocker cover nuts. That?s a unanimous no! Simon From: HealeyRick [mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com] Sent: 15 February 2017 00:03 To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts No, they are different. Happy Healeying, Rick Neville Does anyone know if the rocker cover nuts from an A series Mini would fit a 3000? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Feb 15 09:12:32 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 11:12:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring question After removing the CAB and carbs for rebuilding I noticed an unconnected wire and an open terminal on the electrical lighting/flasher box. The wire is purple/green and the terminal is the topmost one on the rear side of the box--there is no no wire going to this terminal. The wire comes out of a small sub-harness along with a yellow/brown and green/yellow wire, both of which are connected to terminals on the rear side of the box. The only significant change from stock wiring is that I have electrified the rear reflector pods and use them for turn flashers instead of having the one light handling side/brake/turn functions, but I cannot see that this correlates with having an open, disconnected wire at the control box end. The screw to the open terminal was loose, leading me to believe that the wire in question was connected to it, but since all of my flashers, side and brake lights are functional I thought I should try to find out the wire's function before reconnecting it. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Wed Feb 15 13:54:13 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2017 06:54:13 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring question References: ...sure it's purple with green (as opposed to green with purple?) the British Standard doesn't list a function for the former. The latter is for stop lamps http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/colourcodes.htm Cheers Peter From: Michael Oritt Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2017 2:12 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Wiring question After removing the CAB and carbs for rebuilding I noticed an unconnected wire and an open terminal on the electrical lighting/flasher box. The wire is purple/green and the terminal is the topmost one on the rear side of the box--there is no no wire going to this terminal. The wire comes out of a small sub-harness along with a yellow/brown and green/yellow wire, both of which are connected to terminals on the rear side of the box. The only significant change from stock wiring is that I have electrified the rear reflector pods and use them for turn flashers instead of having the one light handling side/brake/turn functions, but I cannot see that this correlates with having an open, disconnected wire at the control box end. The screw to the open terminal was loose, leading me to believe that the wire in question was connected to it, but since all of my flashers, side and brake lights are functional I thought I should try to find out the wire's function before reconnecting it. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Wed Feb 15 14:22:36 2017 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 16:22:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rear end clunk Hi list , I have a 67 BJ-8 , frame off restoration completed 5 years ago with maybe 2,000 miles sense . New u joints , new rear hubs , all shock mounts tight . The other day I started to hear a clunk coming from the rear ended , sort of a noise when the u joints are needing replacing. Mine are new. I jacked up the rear end . Grabbed the drive shaft and was able to turn it , maybe 1/2 inch twist either way , sounds like clunk noise was coming from the rear end , any thoughts ? Thanks Don Sent from my iPad From llennep at verizon.net Wed Feb 15 14:24:53 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 15:24:53 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts I hate anything being called unanimous - just seems un-American. So I am going to register a "yes". :) On 02/15/17, Simon Lachlan wrote: Thanks for the replies re the rocker cover nuts. That?s a unanimous no! Simon From: HealeyRick [mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com] Sent: 15 February 2017 00:03 To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts No, they are different. Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Tue, Feb 14, 2017 at 6:50 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: Does anyone know if the rocker cover nuts from an A series Mini would fit a 3000? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From healeyrik at gmail.com Wed Feb 15 15:34:21 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 12:34:21 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts References: <1125.4984086.1487193893447.JavaMail.root@vznit170184.mailsrvcs.net> "Alternate facts" :) On Wed, Feb 15, 2017 at 11:24 AM, wrote: > I hate anything being called unanimous - just seems un-American. So I am > going to register a "yes". > > :) > > > On 02/15/17, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > > > > Thanks for the replies re the rocker cover nuts. That?s a unanimous no! > > Simon > > From: HealeyRick [mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com] > Sent: 15 February 2017 00:03 > To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healey List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts > > > > > No, they are different. > > > > > > Happy Healeying, > > > > > > Rick Neville > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Feb 14, 2017 at 6:50 AM, Simon Lachlan < > simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote: > > > Does anyone know if the rocker cover nuts from an A series Mini would fit > a 3000? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep@ > verizon.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 16 07:33:26 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2017 15:33:26 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Rear end clunk References: <377B2B59-C44E-4359-ACD1-82F61F1D2E4A@yahoo.com> Make sure the U-joints are OK. Even new ones can fail as not always the correct joints are supplied/fitted. Sometimes the spider is skinnier than the original spec ones with the external diameter of the cup being correct which can lead to rapid wear. May be the joints were not greased properly when installed. If there is 1/2" twist either way and the UV-joints OK, this is to much and adjustment/repair of the differential/rear axle is at hand. Also check wear on the hub splines although this would not really be noticed by turning the prop shaft. Kees Oudesluijs Op 15-2-2017 om 22:22 schreef Don Day: > Hi list , > I have a 67 BJ-8 , frame off restoration completed 5 years ago with maybe 2,000 miles sense . New u joints , new rear hubs , all shock mounts tight . The other day I started to hear a clunk coming from the rear ended , sort of a noise when the u joints are needing replacing. Mine are new. I jacked up the rear end . Grabbed the drive shaft and was able to turn it , maybe 1/2 inch twist either way , sounds like clunk noise was coming from the rear end , any thoughts ? > Thanks Don > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > From 55healey at comcast.net Thu Feb 16 14:35:54 2017 From: 55healey at comcast.net (ROBERT A WESTCOTT) Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2017 13:35:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline RACE20-50 Just wanted to forward the information that O?Reilly Auto Parts ( in WA at least ) has the Valvoline RACE 20-50 oil on sale for $4.99 each through next Wednesday. I just cleaned my local store out ( but they will restock ). Rob From dwflagg at juno.com Fri Feb 17 05:42:59 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 12:42:59 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Keith Taylor Hacked? Kieth, Received a very suspicious post, allegedly from you, with just a link. There were others from the list included. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ The Site All Women Just Love, See Why tophatter.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/58a6efe423bb96fe353aest03duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Fri Feb 17 08:09:08 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 09:09:08 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] Keith Taylor Hacked? Keith Taylor? Not me. On 02/17/17, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: Kieth, Received a very suspicious post, allegedly from you, with just a link. There were others from the list included. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ The Site All Women Just Love, See Why tophatter.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/58a6efe423bb96fe353aest03duc _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From r.alkins001 at comcast.net Fri Feb 17 08:42:36 2017 From: r.alkins001 at comcast.net (Randy) Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 15:42:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Keith Taylor Hacked? References: <30001792.5021155.1487344148393.JavaMail.root@vznit170080.mailsrvcs.net> I got the original message form Doug about some sort of request a couple days ago. ----- Original Message ----- From: llennep at verizon.net To: dwflagg at juno.com, healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 10:09:08 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Keith Taylor Hacked? Keith Taylor? Not me. On 02/17/17, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: Kieth, Received a very suspicious post, allegedly from you, with just a link. There were others from the list included. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ The Site All Women Just Love, See Why tophatter.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/58a6efe423bb96fe353aest03duc _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbt71 at gmail.com Sat Feb 18 11:24:50 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 11:24:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? Hi All, Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for over 30 years and are really sad looking. I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get them out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez (in BOLD) to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say it can be done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and careful? Cheers and Thanks, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170218_103713394_HDR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 54014 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Feb 18 11:59:12 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 10:59:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: I split mine and put them back together without any issues. There is a special rubber washer inside. I believe BCS has them. People debate about replacing the bolts. Some say they stretch others say they don?t. I don?t think I replaced my caliper bolts. John Spaur ?62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2017 10:25 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? Hi All, Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for over 30 years and are really sad looking. I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get them out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez (in BOLD) to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say it can be done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and careful? Cheers and Thanks, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 54014 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Feb 18 12:05:41 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 11:05:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: There is a internal seal that is the issue. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, bu tit was a hard to source and place square seal between the halves. Soak it in anti-seize for quite a while before trying to get the pistons out. take out the bleed screw. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Sat, Feb 18, 2017 at 10:24 AM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Hi All, > Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for > over 30 years and are really sad looking. > I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get them > out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez (in BOLD) > to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say it can be > done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and careful? > Cheers and Thanks, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170218_103713394_HDR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 54014 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 18 12:14:47 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 20:14:47 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: It can be done but you need the special seal washers and ideally new bolts and torque them to the set values. Better is to get new or properly rebuild ones if you are not accustomed rebuilding callipers. They are relatively cheap. Kees Oudesluijs Op 18-2-2017 om 19:24 schreef Mike Tobin: > Hi All, > Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting > for over 30 years and are really sad looking. > I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get > them out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez > (in BOLD) to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks > say it can be done. Anything I have to watch for other than being > clean and careful? > Cheers and Thanks, > Mike Tobin > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Feb 18 12:32:53 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 14:32:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: Mike, I contacted TRW a few years ago, who owned Lucas/Girling at the time, and got the same answer - don't split the calipers. I'm guessing that the bolts are considered single use. I split my calipers when I rebuilt them. I used chassis grease to get the pistons out. The metal tube of the small hand-held grease gun I have has the same threads as the bleeder screw. If only one piston moves you might have to clamp it so more force can be applied to the other. I made a block to bolt on to one half that I could screw the grease gun into if I couldn't get both pistons out before splitting the caliper. British Car Specialists has a replacement for the square o-ring. I don't know who carries the bolts. I was going to use some AN bolts (Earls), but the threads weren't long enough. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 02/18/2017 01:24 PM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Hi All, > Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for > over 30 years and are really sad looking. > I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get > them out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez > (in BOLD) to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say > it can be done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and > careful? > Cheers and Thanks, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From dcorning at ford.com Sat Feb 18 13:22:45 2017 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 20:22:45 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Smith Gauges - Sceliphrons Love Them! I wanted to clean my speedometer before installing it in the dash. Removing the bezel and glass, I carefully wiped the face of the gauge and noticed the needle was stuck. Thinking I'll have to send it somewhere and get it fixed anyway, I decided to disassemble it the rest of the way to look inside. I wasn't expecting to find what I saw! Mud daubers had found a cozy home inside the housing while in storage on my garage shelf. I carefully removed the all the hardened mud bit by bit, freed the needle and amazingly, it works (using a drill on the speedo cable). I took the photo after cleaning the speedo but before working on the tachometer. If they both work properly in the car I'll be Smiths biggest fan! Best, Dan Corning (615) 579-1032 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Smiths Gauges 2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 236229 bytes Desc: Smiths Gauges 2.JPG URL: From editorgary at aol.com Sat Feb 18 13:49:36 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 15:49:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Splitting the calipers References: If my memory serves ? the issue with splitting the brake calipers is that the rubber seal between the two halves around the brake fluid passageway is SQUARE in cross-section, rather than round. Therefore you must have exactly the right replacement seal -- I know from experience during the very last stage of my restoration. Fortunately I was running silicone rather than standard petroleum-based brake fluid and had installed a new e-brake cable before I took the car out for its first test run, so when the bad seal burst upon the first hard application of the brakes and sprayed fluid all over the fender while leaving me without brakes, I was able to bring the car to a stop with the e-brake, get home safely and wipe the fluid off the fender with no damage. So, do not split the calipers until you have the correct replacement seals in hand, and then do it very carefully. And seriously consider using silicone fluid in any high-quality restoration. G. Gary Anderson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Sat Feb 18 15:43:20 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 23:43:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: Well, if it isn't broke, don't fix it. The only thing there is inside the caliper is a seal. If it doesn't leak, fine, don't touch it. Do the rest of the caliper by all means, but leave that seal where it is. Best, Per Den 2017-02-18 kl. 19:24, skrev Mike Tobin: > Hi All, > Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for > over 30 years and are really sad looking. > I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get > them out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez > (in BOLD) to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say > it can be done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and > careful? > Cheers and Thanks, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per at schoerner.se > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Feb 18 17:28:59 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 16:28:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Smith Gauges - Sceliphrons Love Them! References: <26d97da3634049b5ab5d1f39ac137e33@nafcmb26.exchange.ford.com> Great photo. Good jod detective Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Feb 18, 2017 2:46 PM, "Corning, Dan (D.C.)" wrote: > I wanted to clean my speedometer before installing it in the dash. > Removing the bezel and glass, I carefully wiped the face of the gauge and > noticed the needle was stuck. Thinking I?ll have to send it somewhere and > get it fixed anyway, I decided to disassemble it the rest of the way to > look inside. I wasn?t expecting to find what I saw! > > > > Mud daubers had found a cozy home inside the housing while in storage on > my garage shelf. I carefully removed the all the hardened mud bit by bit, > freed the needle and amazingly, it works (using a drill on the speedo > cable). I took the photo after cleaning the speedo but before working on > the tachometer. If they both work properly in the car I?ll be Smiths > biggest fan! > > > > Best, > > > Dan Corning > (615) 579-1032 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sat Feb 18 19:33:29 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 18:33:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: Splitting the calipers and reusing the bolts are not a problem. The rear disc brake conversion for big Healeys uses Jaguar rear calipers, Girling, that must be split in order to remove the rotor. They have an external brake pipe that allows fluid to pass between the halves. I have had this conversion on my race Healey for 30 years and used the bolts over and over again with no issues. I'm sure that Jaguar owners have had no problems either with using the old bolts. Replacing them with new bolts makes about as much sense as using new lug nuts every time you change a tire. Now that you can buy the square section o-ring that makes the seal between the halves of the Girling calipers for Healeys, there is no problem with any leakage by splitting the calipers. Good luck getting those pistons out. I believe the best way is to use the brake system of your Healey. Plumb those calipers in and pump away. I bought a pair of calipers on Ebay awhile back from a guy that tried to use grease to get the pucks out. He was unsuccessful and created a disgusting mess for me when I began to get the pucks out. On Sat, Feb 18, 2017 at 10:24 AM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Hi All, > Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for > over 30 years and are really sad looking. > I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get them > out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez (in BOLD) > to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say it can be > done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and careful? > Cheers and Thanks, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170218_103713394_HDR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 54014 bytes Desc: not available URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Sat Feb 18 20:04:48 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 16:04:48 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: Small seal ring is Moss part # 583-820 Overhaul kits available on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/250467763580 If changing to silicone fluid you really have to split them to clean out the gunge in the channel. The torque figures for the bolts are available online. From ahbt71 at gmail.com Sat Feb 18 20:41:26 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 20:41:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: Thanks for all the feedback. I've done scuzzy calipers before and used the car's hydraulic pressure to remove the pistons. Not an option this time. The calipers are the next step in a frame-up restoration. Got the rebuilt shocks from Worldwide this week and the kingpins should be back from Nock any day. You can see the pistons are pretty far out - the pads were almost gone. I used the biggest pry I have and could not get the pistons to move inward, so I didn't see how I was going to get them out. With the assurance of a faction in the group I split a caliper and was able to get the pistons to move inward using my bench vice (nothing l ike getting the force applied in the right direction). Tomorrow I'll take Bob Haskell's advice and use pressure from a grease gun to push them out. Gotta buy a new one - a box of tools didn't make it when we moved this past summer (I moved the Healey (in pieces) myself so everything made it). Yeah, I coulda just bought rebuilds, but I decided to do as much a possible myself. It's been a struggle at times but there's real satisfaction being able to look at it and sya "I did that!". Cheers, Mike Tobin Townsend The calipers' home awaits (and I welded in that shock mount myself dammit!). . On Sat, Feb 18, 2017 at 11:24 AM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Hi All, > Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for > over 30 years and are really sad looking. > I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get them > out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez (in BOLD) > to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say it can be > done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and careful? > Cheers and Thanks, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170218_203155964.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 37649 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170218_103713394_HDR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 54014 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rft2 at aol.com Sun Feb 19 10:21:40 2017 From: rft2 at aol.com (rft2 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 12:21:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? Rebuilt my calipers this past fall. Found a video on YouTube to be very helpful, not exactly same calipers, but still worth watching. On subject line type Maserati Brake Caliper Tear Down Good luck Mal Hickok -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell To: Mike Tobin ; healeys Sent: Sat, Feb 18, 2017 4:54 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? Mike, I contacted TRW a few years ago, who owned Lucas/Girling at the time, and got the same answer - don't split the calipers. I'm guessing that the bolts are considered single use. I split my calipers when I rebuilt them. I used chassis grease to get the pistons out. The metal tube of the small hand-held grease gun I have has the same threads as the bleeder screw. If only one piston moves you might have to clamp it so more force can be applied to the other. I made a block to bolt on to one half that I could screw the grease gun into if I couldn't get both pistons out before splitting the caliper. British Car Specialists has a replacement for the square o-ring. I don't know who carries the bolts. I was going to use some AN bolts (Earls), but the threads weren't long enough. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 02/18/2017 01:24 PM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Hi All, > Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for > over 30 years and are really sad looking. > I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get > them out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez > (in BOLD) to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say > it can be done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and > careful? > Cheers and Thanks, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbt71 at gmail.com Sun Feb 19 13:40:39 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 13:40:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: <58A8A165.40100@earthlink.net> <15a5764ae36-6b2f-172ee@webprd-a40.mail.aol.com> Success. Familiar territory from here. Thanks Again for all the help. Now waiting on the parts. Guess I can start on the rear end. Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana Before and After -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170219_124655372_HDR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 59804 bytes Desc: not available URL: From editorgary at aol.com Sun Feb 19 13:46:01 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 15:46:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Calipers References: Best suggestion I've seen in today's posts is to have the brake calipers professionally rebuilt rather than attempting to do it yourself. This is one of those examples of a cheap repair with very expensive consequences if done baddy -- If you send in the old calipers, it can't be that expensive since the parts are cheap. I think White Post Restorations rebuilds calipers. G. Gary Anderson Austin-Healey Concours Registry ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 20:14:47 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? It can be done but you need the special seal washers and ideally new bolts and torque them to the set values. Better is to get new or properly rebuild ones if you are not accustomed rebuilding callipers. They are relatively cheap. Kees Oudesluijs Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 56 *************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Feb 19 14:20:00 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 13:20:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: <58A8A165.40100@earthlink.net> <15a5764ae36-6b2f-172ee@webprd-a40.mail.aol.com> ? Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Feb 19, 2017 1:11 PM, "Mike Tobin" wrote: > Success. Familiar territory from here. > Thanks Again for all the help. > Now waiting on the parts. Guess I can start on the rear end. > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > Before and After > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170219_124655372_HDR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 59804 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Feb 19 16:09:56 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 18:09:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley ?I was at the Ellerslie Intermarque Concours ?in Auckland last weekend and had the opportunity to take a close look at a "1931 Blower Bentley". There is a part of the engine that I cannot figure out and was wondering if anyone on the list who can shed some light on this. [image: Inline image 1] Where the carburetors would be mounted on a non supercharged engine there are these very complicated devices. [image: Inline image 2] I would guess that they are some sort of relief valve but, as the carbs are on the blower inlet I don't think that is very likely. Anyone know? Michael S BN1 #174 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1038272 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1868880 bytes Desc: not available URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Feb 19 17:18:44 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 11:18:44 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley References: Hello Mike I heard that it was a good event. As you say the twin SU carburettors are hanging off the front mounted blower and those things are two blow-off valves that protect the supercharger from the effects of backfiring. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Monday, 20 February 2017 10:10 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley ?I was at the Ellerslie Intermarque Concours ?in Auckland last weekend and had the opportunity to take a close look at a "1931 Blower Bentley". There is a part of the engine that I cannot figure out and was wondering if anyone on the list who can shed some light on this. Inline image 1 Where the carburetors would be mounted on a non supercharged engine there are these very complicated devices. Inline image 2 I would guess that they are some sort of relief valve but, as the carbs are on the blower inlet I don't think that is very likely. Anyone know? Michael S BN1 #174 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 28247 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 31358 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Sun Feb 19 18:09:26 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 01:09:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley References: <20170220010329.4264020.43812.7050@gmail.com> "To protect the blower from backfires? Just a WAG" Sounds reasonable...BUT... I wouldn't be too happy about an air/fuel mixture blowing out there, particularly with an uninsulated spark plug wire next to it..... YIKES!!! There isn't even a spark gauze. What would Health and Safety have to say about that. Michael S From: Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Monday, February 20, 2:03 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley To: Michael Salter To protect the blower from backfires? Just a WAG -Roland Sent?from?my?BlackBerry?10?smartphone. From: Michael Salter Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2017 3:36 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley ?I was at the Ellerslie Intermarque Concours ?in Auckland last weekend and had the opportunity to take a close look at a "1931 Blower Bentley". There is a part of the engine that I cannot figure out and was wondering if anyone on the list who can shed some light on this. Where the carburetors would be mounted on a non supercharged engine there are these very complicated devices. I would guess that they are some sort of relief valve but, as the carbs are on the blower inlet I don't think that is very likely. Anyone know? Michael S BN1 #174 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sun Feb 19 22:55:32 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 21:55:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes I'm interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). I'd prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I'm not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds-it's just not my taste). I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates. I'm going to call them Monday, but I'm not sure they have a coating light enough. I also don't want to paint it, as I know that won't hold up long term. I'm curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated. How does the "naked" aluminum hold up to the heat? What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 1214161012.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 57697 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Feb 19 23:24:15 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 22:24:15 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> Paint it! The paint should hold up as good or better than on the engine if it's done right, and that's how the factory did it. Bob On 2/19/2017 9:55 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was > powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the > head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots > have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is > cast aluminum (see the attached photo). > > I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a > big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to > all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my > taste). I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray > 12 years ago, and they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the > intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their > lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker > than their online color catalogue indicates. I?m going to call them > Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. > > I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long > term. I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and > leaving the manifold uncoated. How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up > to the heat? What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0416.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1580392 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0417.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1522578 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0418.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1349064 bytes Desc: not available URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Sun Feb 19 23:26:40 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 06:26:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> The "naked" aluminum will stand up to the heat just fine. The added coating may even be detrimental to heat transfer. I'm not surprised that the powder coating is discoloring. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bruce Steele Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 5:55:32 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my taste). I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates. I?m going to call them Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long term. I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated. How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up to the heat? What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 07:07:14 2017 From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jonathan Einhorn) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 09:07:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the best one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 einhornlawoffice at gmail.com fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drscholz at visioncenterpc.com Mon Feb 20 08:18:16 2017 From: drscholz at visioncenterpc.com (Chris Scholz) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 15:18:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: I switched my 4.11 to 3.54 and was very pleased. Sent from my iPhone Chris Scholz OD I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the best one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Feb 20 08:21:13 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 10:21:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: For the few dollars it costs, I would send them out to a brake shop to get them rebuilt by someone who has the tools and experience. They will clean them up ready for paint and replace the seals and pistons as needed. Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: February-18-17 1:25 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? Hi All, Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for over 30 years and are really sad looking. I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get them out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez (in BOLD) to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say it can be done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and careful? Cheers and Thanks, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 54014 bytes Desc: not available URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Mon Feb 20 08:59:58 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 07:59:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Non_Healey_Question=2E=2E=2EBlower_Bentl?= =?iso-8859-1?q?ey?= Mike, Quick perusal of my copy of The Grand Prix Car by Laurence Pomeroy: all the roots-blown cars have these popoff valves on the manifolds. The blower is positive displacement so all that intake has to go somewhere on deceleration. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From waschu2 at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 13:00:09 2017 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 15:00:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements Hello, I am going to be helping a friend soon who has a BJ8 with the Koni front shock conversion. Both of his front shocks are leaking badly. Does anyone have a modern replacement part number? I think an adjustable gas shock would be the way to go. I can measure the full extended and retracted dimensions of the Koni shock and go from there, but I don't want to reinvent the wheel if someone already had part numbers to start with. Gabriel, Monroe, etc. Thanks Wayne From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Feb 20 13:13:26 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 20:13:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> Bruce,???? I have done my intake manifolds in Jet Hot coating.? They have a light silver that looks aluminum or actually any color you want.? It also keeps the heat from the engine bay out of the intake. Bonus.Jet-Hot High Performance Ceramic Coatings | | | | | | | | | | | Jet-Hot High Performance Ceramic Coatings High-performance coatings. Solving problems with heat, corrosion,?friction, and appearance. Backed with our li... | | | | Mike MacLean On Sunday, February 19, 2017 10:27 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold.? It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). ?I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my taste).? I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great.? So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates.? I?m going to call them Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. ?I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long term.? I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated.? How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up to the heat?? What have others done?? Your experience is appreciated. ?Bruce SteeleBrea, CA1960 BN7 ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Feb 20 14:05:04 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 16:05:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same Healey Green as the engine. In any event, I painted mine with the Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine. The intake manifold doesn't get that hot. The key to any paint durability is how clean the surface is when you paint it. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 12:56 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes I'm interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). I'd prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I'm not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds-it's just not my taste). I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates. I'm going to call them Monday, but I'm not sure they have a coating light enough. I also don't want to paint it, as I know that won't hold up long term. I'm curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated. How does the "naked" aluminum hold up to the heat? What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Mon Feb 20 14:26:08 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 21:26:08 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements Wayne, Try www.putzkes-fahrspass.com/eng/kits.html. Cheers, Doug Hello, I am going to be helping a friend soon who has a BJ8 with the Koni front shock conversion. Both of his front shocks are leaking badly. Does anyone have a modern replacement part number? I think an adjustable gas shock would be the way to go. I can measure the full extended and retracted dimensions of the Koni shock and go from there, but I don't want to reinvent the wheel if someone already had part numbers to start with. Gabriel, Monroe, etc. Thanks Wayne _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ____________________________________________________________ College Student Discovers The Fastest Way To Lose Weight! Capitalizing Calories http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/58ab5f603fb1e5f601a53st01duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Mon Feb 20 14:42:56 2017 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 16:42:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> I use a high temp clear coat for mine, so far so good. It does create a slightly different tone to the finish. John On 2/20/2017 12:55 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was > powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the > head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots > have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is > cast aluminum (see the attached photo). > > I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a > big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to > all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my > taste). I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray > 12 years ago, and they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the > intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their > lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker > than their online color catalogue indicates. I?m going to call them > Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. > > I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long > term. I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and > leaving the manifold uncoated. How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up > to the heat? What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kags at shaw.ca Mon Feb 20 14:57:14 2017 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 13:57:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] cyl head nut wrench Question(s) for the list: Has anyone ever used factory tool (or equivalent) 18G545 when retorqueing a Healey cyl. head? If so, how did it work? Is it worth trying to find one? Or possibly make up an equivalent? This tool will apparently allow retorqueing without removing the rocker shaft assembly. We have a few recently rebuilt big Healey engines around here that could use such a tool in the near future. Any comments / help will be appreciated. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Feb 20 14:58:34 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 22:58:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements References: Koni's can be rebuild by a Koni specialist. There are type numbers engraved at the bottom of the Koni's, like e.g. 80-2155. They may still being produced. Using gas shockabsorbers will raise the car a bit. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-2-2017 om 21:00 schreef Wayne: > Hello, > > I am going to be helping a friend soon who has a BJ8 with > the Koni front shock conversion. Both of his front shocks are leaking > badly. Does anyone have a modern replacement part number? I think an > adjustable gas shock would be the way to go. I can measure the full > extended and retracted dimensions of the Koni shock and go from there, > but I don't want to reinvent the wheel if someone already had part > numbers to start with. Gabriel, Monroe, etc. > > Thanks > Wayne > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > From john at jtkarowe.com.au Mon Feb 20 15:41:47 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 08:41:47 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements References: Wayne, Koni shocks are re-buildable. You might contact the distributors in your country. Regards John Rowe Qld Australia -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Sent: Tuesday, 21 February 2017 6:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements Hello, I am going to be helping a friend soon who has a BJ8 with the Koni front shock conversion. Both of his front shocks are leaking badly. Does anyone have a modern replacement part number? I think an adjustable gas shock would be the way to go. I can measure the full extended and retracted dimensions of the Koni shock and go from there, but I don't want to reinvent the wheel if someone already had part numbers to start with. Gabriel, Monroe, etc. Thanks Wayne _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/john at jtkarowe.com.au From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 15:55:18 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 14:55:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements References: Please share. Coukd use rear shock info too Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Feb 20, 2017 1:29 PM, "Wayne" wrote: > Hello, > > I am going to be helping a friend soon who has a BJ8 with the > Koni front shock conversion. Both of his front shocks are leaking badly. > Does anyone have a modern replacement part number? I think an adjustable > gas shock would be the way to go. I can measure the full extended and > retracted dimensions of the Koni shock and go from there, but I don't want > to reinvent the wheel if someone already had part numbers to start with. > Gabriel, Monroe, etc. > > Thanks > Wayne > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 17:27:16 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 14:27:16 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements References: <20170220.162608.17304.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com> If you don't want to mess with trying to find a different shock, Koni has a rebuilding service: http://www.koniracing.com/services.cfm Also, Udo is on a tour of Australia, don't know how in touch he is right now. Happy Healeying Rick Neville On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 11:26 AM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: > Wayne, > > Try www.putzkes-fahrspass.com/eng/kits.html. > > Cheers, > > Doug > > Hello, > > I am going to be helping a friend soon who has a BJ8 with > the Koni front shock conversion. Both of his front shocks are leaking > badly. Does anyone have a modern replacement part number? I think an > adjustable gas shock would be the way to go. I can measure the full > extended and retracted dimensions of the Koni shock and go from there, > but I don't want to reinvent the wheel if someone already had part > numbers to start with. Gabriel, Monroe, etc. > > Thanks > Wayne > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *College Student Discovers The Fastest Way To Lose Weight!* > Capitalizing Calories > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/58ab5f603fb1e5f601a53st01duc > [image: SponsoredBy Content.Ad] > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Feb 20 17:46:33 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 00:46:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> Steve,???? Healey green for the normal intake manifold, begs the question, what color the Lemans intake manifolds on Lemans conversions of the 100?Mike MacLean On Monday, February 20, 2017 2:47 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same Healey Green as the engine.? In any event, I painted mine with the Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine.? The intake manifold doesn't get that hot.? The key to any paint durability is how clean the surface is when you paint it. ?Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at LargeHavelock, NC? ? ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 12:56 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes ?I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold.? It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). ?I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my taste).? I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great.? So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates.? I?m going to call them Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. ?I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long term.? I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated.? How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up to the heat?? What have others done?? Your experience is appreciated. ?Bruce SteeleBrea, CA1960 BN7 ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Mon Feb 20 18:30:46 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 01:30:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: , The original final drive ratio for the BN1 was 4.125:1. This was using the spiral bevel rear end. BN2 through BJ8 used the hypoid rear axle and the standard final drive ratio through the BJ7 was 4.11:1. There were several different ratios available for the spiral bevel set, but I'm not sure what they were. The hypoid set was available in 3.909:1 for early non-overdrive and late (BJ8) overdrive cars and in 3.54:1 for late non-overdrive cars. The 2660 has plenty of power to pull a higher ratio on the highway and since I am using a hypoid final drive in my car I have opted for the 3.54:1 ratio as supplied by Mike Lempert. It is very pleasant in town or on the road. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Chris Scholz Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 3:18:16 PM To: Jonathan Einhorn Cc: healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios I switched my 4.11 to 3.54 and was very pleased. Sent from my iPhone Chris Scholz OD I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the best one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Mon Feb 20 18:58:43 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 01:58:43 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rick Caird Either Rick Caird's email has been hijacked or he really does think I'm interested in Blake Shelton's weight loss secrets... Bill Lawrence -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 19:07:43 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 18:07:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley References: <20170220010329.4264020.43812.7050@gmail.com> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.0178d7dd-6ffc-4efd-933a-d321cbc80d39@mail.outlook.com> British version of a "Flux Capacitor" ;-) On Feb 19, 2017 6:36 PM, wrote: "To protect the blower from backfires? Just a WAG" Sounds reasonable...BUT... I wouldn't be too happy about an air/fuel mixture blowing out there, particularly with an uninsulated spark plug wire next to it..... YIKES!!! There isn't even a spark gauze. What would Health and Safety have to say about that. Michael S From: Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Monday, February 20, 2:03 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley To: Michael Salter To protect the blower from backfires? Just a WAG -Roland Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. *From: * Michael Salter *Sent: * Sunday, February 19, 2017 3:36 PM *To: * healeys at autox.team.net *Subject: * [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley ?I was at the Ellerslie Intermarque Concours ?in Auckland last weekend and had the opportunity to take a close look at a "1931 Blower Bentley". There is a part of the engine that I cannot figure out and was wondering if anyone on the list who can shed some light on this. [image: Inline image 1] Where the carburetors would be mounted on a non supercharged engine there are these very complicated devices. [image: Inline image 2] I would guess that they are some sort of relief valve but, as the carbs are on the blower inlet I don't think that is very likely. Anyone know? Michael S BN1 #174 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Feb 20 20:43:05 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 19:43:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?manifold?= years ago i brush painted my manifold with rustoleum aluminum paint and it is still there and looks good. From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 20:45:05 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 19:45:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: I agree, the 3.54 ratio is the way to go. I'm bringing my rear end down to Pro-Gear in San Diego tomorrow to have my Lempert set installed. I also have an original set that I picked up in Australia from Robby Roland at the Healey Factory 20 years ago. Curt On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 7:18 AM, Chris Scholz wrote: > I switched my 4.11 to 3.54 and was very pleased. > > Sent from my iPhone > Chris Scholz OD > > On Feb 20, 2017, at 8:36 AM, Jonathan Einhorn > wrote: > > I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the best > one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. > > thanks > jon > > -- > Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. > Attorney & Counselor at Law > 129 Whitney Avenue > New Haven, CT. 06510 > tel: 203-777-3777 <(203)%20777-3777> > einhornlawoffice at gmail.com > fax: 203-782-1721 <(203)%20782-1721> > cell: 203-623-7373 <(203)%20623-7373> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/drscholz at visioncenterpc.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 20:52:23 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 19:52:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements References: <75d29557-0a7c-305e-7fb7-8d5c30cb0204@chello.nl> I have the hardware, but not the shocks, so I have nothing to rebuild. That's why I need a part # to work from Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 1:58 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Koni's can be rebuild by a Koni specialist. There are type numbers > engraved at the bottom of the Koni's, like e.g. 80-2155. They may still > being produced. > Using gas shockabsorbers will raise the car a bit. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 20-2-2017 om 21:00 schreef Wayne: > >> Hello, >> >> I am going to be helping a friend soon who has a BJ8 with the >> Koni front shock conversion. Both of his front shocks are leaking badly. >> Does anyone have a modern replacement part number? I think an adjustable >> gas shock would be the way to go. I can measure the full extended and >> retracted dimensions of the Koni shock and go from there, but I don't want >> to reinvent the wheel if someone already had part numbers to start with. >> Gabriel, Monroe, etc. >> >> Thanks >> Wayne >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Feb 20 21:30:53 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 20:30:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: I think 4.1:1 was std/typical, which would be best for street driving. A taller rear end would be better for highway miles. IMO. Bob On 2/20/2017 6:07 AM, Jonathan Einhorn wrote: > I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the > best one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. > > thanks > jon > > -- > Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. > Attorney & Counselor at Law > 129 Whitney Avenue > New Haven, CT. 06510 > tel: 203-777-3777 > fax: 203-782-1721 > cell: 203-623-7373 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Feb 20 21:46:54 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 20:46:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> <1019009501.1349538.1487637993224@mail.yahoo.com> The manifolds on our original 100M were bare Al, but I can't say whether they came that way or the paint burned off. I suspect--since they added the larger carbs at the Healey factory--they wouldn't have bothered to paint them (since they usually couldn't be bothered to pull the engine to replace the cam). Bob On 2/20/2017 4:46 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Steve, > Healey green for the normal intake manifold, begs the question, > what color the Lemans intake manifolds on Lemans conversions of the 100? > Mike MacLean > > > On Monday, February 20, 2017 2:47 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > > I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same > Healey Green as the engine. In any event, I painted mine with the > Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine. The intake > manifold doesn't get that hot. The key to any paint durability is how > clean the surface is when you paint it. > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bruce Steele > *Sent:* Monday, February 20, 2017 12:56 AM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes > I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was > powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the > head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots > have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is > cast aluminum (see the attached photo). > I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a > big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to > all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my > taste). I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray > 12 years ago, and they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the > intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their > lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker > than their online color catalogue indicates. I?m going to call them > Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. > I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long > term. I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and > leaving the manifold uncoated. How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up > to the heat? What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100-0018_IMG.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 359269 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 102-0243_IMG.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 433760 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Feb 21 03:17:51 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 10:17:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> <1019009501.1349538.1487637993224@mail.yahoo.com> <0686bab9-a8d9-ddbb-71c1-d014c6e01490@comcast.net> Makes sense.Mike MacLean On Tuesday, February 21, 2017 2:03 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: The manifolds on our original 100M were bare Al, but I can't say whether they came that way or the paint burned off.? I suspect--since they added the larger carbs at the Healey factory--they wouldn't have bothered to paint them (since they usually couldn't be bothered to pull the engine to replace the cam). Bob On 2/20/2017 4:46 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Steve, ???? Healey green for the normal intake manifold, begs the question, what color the Lemans intake manifolds on Lemans conversions of the 100? Mike MacLean On Monday, February 20, 2017 2:47 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: #yiv3133065192 #yiv3133065192 -- filtered {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}#yiv3133065192 filtered {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv3133065192 filtered {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}#yiv3133065192 filtered {panose-1:3 15 7 2 3 3 2 2 2 4;}#yiv3133065192 filtered {panose-1:2 11 6 3 2 2 2 2 2 4;}#yiv3133065192 p.yiv3133065192MsoNormal, #yiv3133065192 li.yiv3133065192MsoNormal, #yiv3133065192 div.yiv3133065192MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv3133065192 a:link, #yiv3133065192 span.yiv3133065192MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3133065192 a:visited, #yiv3133065192 span.yiv3133065192MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3133065192 p.yiv3133065192MsoAcetate, #yiv3133065192 li.yiv3133065192MsoAcetate, #yiv3133065192 div.yiv3133065192MsoAcetate {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:8.0pt;}#yiv3133065192 span.yiv3133065192EmailStyle17 {color:windowtext;}#yiv3133065192 span.yiv3133065192EmailStyle18 {color:#002060;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv3133065192 span.yiv3133065192BalloonTextChar {}#yiv3133065192 .yiv3133065192MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv3133065192 filtered {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv3133065192 div.yiv3133065192WordSection1 {}#yiv3133065192 I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same Healey Green as the engine.? In any event, I painted mine with the Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine.? The intake manifold doesn't get that hot.? The key to any paint durability is how clean the surface is when you paint it. ? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? ? ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 12:56 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes ? I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold.? It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). ? I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my taste).? I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great.? So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates.? I?m going to call them Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. ? I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long term.? I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated.? How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up to the heat?? What have others done?? Your experience is appreciated. ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Feb 21 05:02:46 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 07:02:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> <1019009501.1349538.1487637993224@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, I don't presume to know much of anything about Healey models other than the BJ8. I was responding to Bruce's question about his BN7, and I assume that all 3000 engines left the factory in the same finish as BJ8 engines. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 7:47 PM To: BJ8Healeys; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes Steve, Healey green for the normal intake manifold, begs the question, what color the Lemans intake manifolds on Lemans conversions of the 100? Mike MacLean On Monday, February 20, 2017 2:47 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same Healey Green as the engine. In any event, I painted mine with the Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine. The intake manifold doesn't get that hot. The key to any paint durability is how clean the surface is when you paint it. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Feb 21 05:52:22 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 07:52:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> <1019009501.1349538.1487637993224@mail.yahoo.com> Mike >From the 2017 guidelines for Concours: ? 100M intake manifolds were unpainted, as the original manifolds were not used when the cars were modified. However, the balance pipe was reused and is painted engine green. Perry From: Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 3:05 AM To: BJ8Healeys; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes Steve, ???? Healey green for the normal intake manifold, begs the question, what color the Lemans intake manifolds on Lemans conversions of the 100? Mike MacLean On Monday, February 20, 2017 2:47 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same Healey Green as the engine.? In any event, I painted mine with the Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine.? The intake manifold doesn't get that hot.? The key to any paint durability is how clean the surface is when you paint it. ? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? ? ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 12:56 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes ? I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold.? It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). ? I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my taste).? I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great.? So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates.? I?m going to call them Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. ? I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long term.? I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated.? How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up to the heat?? What have others done?? Your experience is appreciated. ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From RFBegani at speakeasy.net Tue Feb 21 06:39:10 2017 From: RFBegani at speakeasy.net (Robert F. Begani) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 08:39:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> My BJ8 manufactured, has an unpainted intake manifold which I believe is original because the car was produced toward the end of the era. It cleaned up very nicely with white vinegar, and was never grimy or oily on the engine. Along with the engine, a good washing cleaned it and the engine of road dust etc. I have decided to leave it O'natural. Bob Begani From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 4:05 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same Healey Green as the engine. In any event, I painted mine with the Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine. The intake manifold doesn't get that hot. The key to any paint durability is how clean the surface is when you paint it. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 12:56 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes I'm interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). I'd prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I'm not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds-it's just not my taste). I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates. I'm going to call them Monday, but I'm not sure they have a coating light enough. I also don't want to paint it, as I know that won't hold up long term. I'm curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated. How does the "naked" aluminum hold up to the heat? What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Tue Feb 21 07:33:53 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 09:33:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios Depends on where you live. ?Standard gears is a perfect compromise for me in California.?Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Curtis Arndt Date: 2/20/17 10:45 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Chris Scholz Cc: healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios I agree, the 3.54 ratio is the way to go.? I'm bringing my rear end down to Pro-Gear in San Diego tomorrow to have my Lempert set installed.? I also have an original set that I picked up in Australia from Robby Roland at the Healey Factory 20 years ago. Curt On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 7:18 AM, Chris Scholz wrote: I switched my 4.11 to 3.54 and was very pleased.? Sent from my iPhone Chris Scholz OD On Feb 20, 2017, at 8:36 AM, Jonathan Einhorn wrote: I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the best one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 einhornlawoffice at gmail.com fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drscholz at visioncenterpc.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Feb 21 08:30:53 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 15:30:53 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have to remove his from his LHD '64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in the way, plus its pipework and the steering column...or is that a bit lower? Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The usual in fact.. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Feb 21 09:22:53 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 08:22:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: I have std. 4.1 in my 100M--it definitely gets off the line well--and I put a Lempert gearset in my BJ8. The M isn't comfortable to drive much over 70MPH, and I generally observe the 4K RPM 'red line' for the 100s--crank failures can happen above that--but it's a hoot driving the mountainous roads around the SF Bay Area. The BJ8 is the better touring car, but it does take some finessing to get it off the line (surprisingly, dumping the clutch relatively quickly but smoothly works the best, but sometimes I have to slip the clutch more than I like). I think a 3.9 might work well for an 'all-around' car, since the taller OD helps for cruising, but if you're looking at mostly highway miles the 3.54 would be the way to go. I remember Gary Anderson (I think) once saying a 3.54 with the 28% OD might be the best arrangement of all, but you'll lose some quickness. Bob On 2/21/2017 6:33 AM, goldengt wrote: > Depends on where you live. Standard gears is a perfect compromise for > me in California. > Ken Freese > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Curtis Arndt > Date: 2/20/17 10:45 PM (GMT-05:00) > To: Chris Scholz > Cc: healey list > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios > > I agree, the 3.54 ratio is the way to go. I'm bringing my rear end > down to Pro-Gear in San Diego tomorrow to have my Lempert set > installed. I also have an original set that I picked up in Australia > from Robby Roland at the Healey Factory 20 years ago. > > Curt > > On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 7:18 AM, Chris Scholz > > I switched my 4.11 to 3.54 and was very pleased. > > Sent from my iPhone > Chris Scholz OD > > On Feb 20, 2017, at 8:36 AM, Jonathan Einhorn > wrote: > >> I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is >> the best one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got >> OD. >> >> thanks >> jon >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbt71 at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 09:57:14 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 09:57:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Red Stripes on Springs Cleaned up the front springs and found the hand-painted red stripes were still there under all the crud. Anyone know what they're there for? I couldn't find anything in the archives. Seems the bonnet spring has one too. Cheers, Mike -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Feb 21 10:07:22 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 17:07:22 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: Coincidentally, I tried to send this before, but it came bouncing back.."too many recipients" or some such. With reference to ratios and Gary's(?) comment:- I've got a 3:54 diff and a 28% overdrive in my MkII BT7. Yes, it's a 3000 but I get the impression that there's still plenty of spare oomph, if you see what I mean. One just uses different gears/ratios. I drove it pretty much non-stop from one end of France to the other on their Autoroute system. Ideal. (Well, I stopped for petrol once or twice!) And for fun on our narrow Devon roads, I'm in 3rd when you regularly ratioed guys would be in 3rd, overdrive or 4th which is practically the same anyhow. I was unlucky enough to destroy my original 22%OD somehow - I don't know how - and had to have it rebuilt. (Replaced would be more like it.) Anyhow, since the cost was the same, I went for 28%. My point being that it was an opportunity and I took it. Had the opportunity not have arisen, I would never even have contemplated going from 22 to 28. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 21 February 2017 16:23 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios I have std. 4.1 in my 100M--it definitely gets off the line well--and I put a Lempert gearset in my BJ8. The M isn't comfortable to drive much over 70MPH, and I generally observe the 4K RPM 'red line' for the 100s--crank failures can happen above that--but it's a hoot driving the mountainous roads around the SF Bay Area. The BJ8 is the better touring car, but it does take some finessing to get it off the line (surprisingly, dumping the clutch relatively quickly but smoothly works the best, but sometimes I have to slip the clutch more than I like). I think a 3.9 might work well for an 'all-around' car, since the taller OD helps for cruising, but if you're looking at mostly highway miles the 3.54 would be the way to go. I remember Gary Anderson (I think) once saying a 3.54 with the 28% OD might be the best arrangement of all, but you'll lose some quickness. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 10:18:42 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 09:18:42 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box References: <001401d28c57$7d4c6e10$77e54a30$@homecall.co.uk> try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in between the extensions I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey > standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have > to remove his from his LHD ?64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in the > way, plus its pipework and the steering column?..or is that a bit lower? > > Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what > does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The > usual in fact?. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Feb 21 10:26:45 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 09:26:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Red Stripes on Springs References: They identify the tension of the springs. There may be one or two strips usually red or white on the front springs. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Mike Tobin Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 8:57 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Red Stripes on Springs Cleaned up the front springs and found the hand-painted red stripes were still there under all the crud. Anyone know what they're there for? I couldn't find anything in the archives. Seems the bonnet spring has one too. Cheers, Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jvwojcik at comcast.net Tue Feb 21 11:07:55 2017 From: jvwojcik at comcast.net (Jim Wojcik) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 12:07:55 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: I have a 3/91 set to sell if anyone is interested. Jim Wojcik From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 10:23 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios I have std. 4.1 in my 100M--it definitely gets off the line well--and I put a Lempert gearset in my BJ8. The M isn't comfortable to drive much over 70MPH, and I generally observe the 4K RPM 'red line' for the 100s--crank failures can happen above that--but it's a hoot driving the mountainous roads around the SF Bay Area. The BJ8 is the better touring car, but it does take some finessing to get it off the line (surprisingly, dumping the clutch relatively quickly but smoothly works the best, but sometimes I have to slip the clutch more than I like). I think a 3.9 might work well for an 'all-around' car, since the taller OD helps for cruising, but if you're looking at mostly highway miles the 3.54 would be the way to go. I remember Gary Anderson (I think) once saying a 3.54 with the 28% OD might be the best arrangement of all, but you'll lose some quickness. Bob On 2/21/2017 6:33 AM, goldengt wrote: Depends on where you live. Standard gears is a perfect compromise for me in California. Ken Freese Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- Date: 2/20/17 10:45 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios I agree, the 3.54 ratio is the way to go. I'm bringing my rear end down to Pro-Gear in San Diego tomorrow to have my Lempert set installed. I also have an original set that I picked up in Australia from Robby Roland at the Healey Factory 20 years ago. Curt On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 7:18 AM, Chris Scholz From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 11:09:17 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 10:09:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Red Stripes on Springs References: Paint marks were used by manufacturers to indicate that a job was completed or a specific part was used, So red stripe could have meant that springs from a certain batch were used or red stripe guy installed them Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 8:57 AM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Cleaned up the front springs and found the hand-painted red stripes were > still there under all the crud. > Anyone know what they're there for? I couldn't find anything in the > archives. > Seems the bonnet spring has one too. > Cheers, > Mike > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Tue Feb 21 12:45:09 2017 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 11:45:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> <1019009501.1349538.1487637993224@mail.yahoo.com> <055101d28c3a$6ac56980$40503c80$@rr.com> When I purchased my 1967 BJ8 in 1970 with less than 15,000 miles on the odo, the intake manifold was devoid of any evidence of paint. There was an engine / transmission swap at the factory before delivery as the original owner who lived in Spain did not want the overdrive. Current engine number is 29K U H / 13793. "This car was originally fitted with engine no. 29K RU H / 13594 with overdrive gearbox but this was changed before despatch from the factory". (BL Heritage Limited certificate) I do not know if the swap has any bearing on the painted or not painted issue. (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 215,566 miles ----- Original Message ----- From: BJ8Healeys To: 'Healey List' Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 4:02 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes Mike, I don't presume to know much of anything about Healey models other than the BJ8. I was responding to Bruce's question about his BN7, and I assume that all 3000 engines left the factory in the same finish as BJ8 engines. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 7:47 PM To: BJ8Healeys; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes Steve, Healey green for the normal intake manifold, begs the question, what color the Lemans intake manifolds on Lemans conversions of the 100? Mike MacLean On Monday, February 20, 2017 2:47 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same Healey Green as the engine. In any event, I painted mine with the Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine. The intake manifold doesn't get that hot. The key to any paint durability is how clean the surface is when you paint it. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dcorning at ford.com Tue Feb 21 13:39:09 2017 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 20:39:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Solenoid For Car My baskets full of random Healey parts came with what I think is 3 starter solenoids. Two of the cylindrical ones and one of the square type. For a 1962 BT7 Tri-Carb, which is correct? [cid:image003.png at 01D28C50.420EBC60] Best, Dan Corning (615) 579-1032 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.png Type: image/png Size: 289944 bytes Desc: image003.png URL: From drmasucci at comcast.net Tue Feb 21 17:19:09 2017 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (drmasucci at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 00:19:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Felt-like (flocked) texture in glove box Hi All, Does anyone have a recommendation for restoring the felt-like or flocked texture to the inside of the glove box? My glove box is in pretty good structural shape, but the inside texture is pretty beat. I could just spray it black, but I'm wondering if there's a better product out there. Thanks in advance for any help on this. Dave 64 BJ8 72 XJ6 72 Bonneville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 17:19:35 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 16:19:35 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Solenoid For Car References: <973d4b32dfe345dd964b2a944e358b5a@nafcmb26.exchange.ford.com> The left with the start over ride button Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Feb 21, 2017 2:59 PM, "Corning, Dan (D.C.)" wrote: > My baskets full of random Healey parts came with what I think is 3 starter > solenoids. Two of the cylindrical ones and one of the square type. > > > > For a 1962 BT7 Tri-Carb, which is correct? > > > > > > Best, > > > Dan Corning > (615) 579-1032 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.png Type: image/png Size: 289944 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydohdahman at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 18:37:16 2017 From: healeydohdahman at gmail.com (1 2) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 18:37:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Gears Sorry if this has been asked and answered. Will the Lempert gears change how the speedometer reads? Or is it independent? Thank you -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Feb 21 19:29:54 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 18:29:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Gears References: Yep. Going from 3.9:1, for instance, to 3.54:1 will cause your speedo, odometer and trip meter to indicate about 11% low; e.g. if you're indicating 60MPH you'll be doing about 67. You can: 1) get new gears for the odometer/trip meter and get the speedo calibrated, 2) get an inline ratio adapter, 3) get a GPS with real-time speed readout 4) get good at multiplying by 1.11 in your head Bob On 2/21/2017 5:37 PM, 1 2 wrote: > Sorry if this has been asked and answered. Will the Lempert gears > change how the speedometer reads? Or is it independent? > > Thank you > From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Feb 21 19:36:29 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 18:36:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Felt-like (flocked) texture in glove box References: <2042928176.22491973.1487722749689.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> I think something like this added to regular paint might be close: *http://tinyurl.com/go4qvc6* On 2/21/2017 4:19 PM, drmasucci at comcast.net wrote: > Hi All, > > Does anyone have a recommendation for restoring the felt-like or > flocked texture to the inside of the glove box? My glove box is in > pretty good structural shape, but the inside texture is pretty beat. I > could just spray it black, but I'm wondering if there's a better > product out there. > > Thanks in advance for any help on this. > > Dave > > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > 72 Bonneville > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 20:06:15 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 11:06:15 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: If you have an early BN1, then the ratios are different. 4.125 and optional 3.66. If you have a really early BN1 like me, you have a 32% OD (my fav!) On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 11:18 PM, Chris Scholz wrote: > I switched my 4.11 to 3.54 and was very pleased. > > Sent from my iPhone > Chris Scholz OD > > On Feb 20, 2017, at 8:36 AM, Jonathan Einhorn > wrote: > > I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the best > one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. > > thanks > jon > > -- > Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. > Attorney & Counselor at Law > 129 Whitney Avenue > New Haven, CT. 06510 > tel: 203-777-3777 > einhornlawoffice at gmail.com > fax: 203-782-1721 > cell: 203-623-7373 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/drscholz at visioncenterpc.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 22:17:24 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 19:17:24 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] Felt-like (flocked) texture in glove box References: <1963377708.22491375.1487722555526.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <2042928176.22491973.1487722749689.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> I haven't thought about flock since I built hot rod models as a kid and we used it for upholstery. There's a spray: https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Detailing_and_Weathering/SMO00005503/product.php?gclid=CJL6i8D4otICFZKGfgodvYEG8Q Or you could do it the old fashioned way by sprinkling the powder on a glued surface: https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Detailing_and_Weathering/SMO00005503/product.php?gclid=CJL6i8D4otICFZKGfgodvYEG8Q Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 2:19 PM, wrote: > Hi All, > > Does anyone have a recommendation for restoring the felt-like or flocked > texture to the inside of the glove box? My glove box is in pretty good > structural shape, but the inside texture is pretty beat. I could just spray > it black, but I'm wondering if there's a better product out there. > > Thanks in advance for any help on this. > > Dave > > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > 72 Bonneville > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Feb 22 06:00:48 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 08:00:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> <1019009501.1349538.1487637993224@mail.yahoo.com> <055101d28c3a$6ac56980$40503c80$@rr.com> Thanks for the info, Len. It has been my understanding (possibly inaccurate) that when the engines were painted accessories such as generator and starter were already installed and the whole thing was painted at the same time, including the fan belt. If that was true, then it seems logical that the intake and exhaust manifolds would also have been installed and painted. I would not think that an engine swap would matter since the replacement engine would have been painted the same as the original. Those who are fortunate enough to be the original (and still) owner of a Healey would probably have more knowledge about how the engine looked when new; but I also am the original (and still) owner of a 1969 Dodge Charger and I couldn't tell you such details because I didn't pay attention to them. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len and/or Marge Hartnett Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 2:45 PM To: AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes When I purchased my 1967 BJ8 in 1970 with less than 15,000 miles on the odo, the intake manifold was devoid of any evidence of paint. There was an engine / transmission swap at the factory before delivery as the original owner who lived in Spain did not want the overdrive. Current engine number is 29K U H / 13793. "This car was originally fitted with engine no. 29K RU H / 13594 with overdrive gearbox but this was changed before despatch from the factory". (BL Heritage Limited certificate) I do not know if the swap has any bearing on the painted or not painted issue. (The Other) Len [whatever happened to the basic "Len"?] Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 215,566 miles -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ggilliam at usol.com Wed Feb 22 06:31:39 2017 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 08:31:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey on Bring A Trailer Another AH up for auction on BAT: http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1963-austin-healey-3000-mk-i/ Happy bidding! Gordy Longbridge BN4 From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Feb 22 08:18:12 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 07:18:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey on Bring A Trailer References: <85f782ef3edade30e858736780cb93e7@usol.com> A one-of-a-kind 'concurs' car! Actually pretty nice. I'd consider it closer to a #2. Bob On 2/22/2017 5:31 AM, ggilliam at usol.com wrote: > Another AH up for auction on BAT: > http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1963-austin-healey-3000-mk-i/ > > Happy bidding! > Gordy > Longbridge BN4 > _______________________________________________ > > > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Feb 22 09:04:54 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 08:04:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box References: <001401d28c57$7d4c6e10$77e54a30$@homecall.co.uk> <132a01d28d1f$5f53b670$1dfb2350$@roadrunner.com> I don't have my air hoses in place yet, so It is a straight shot to the top nuts. My mechanic removed mine and cleaned and adjusted the internal points. It gets rusty in there. So Simon, you might take a look inside once you get it out and I would bet you will find rust and crud in there. Using a multi-meter you should be able to check the contacts. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, Feb 22, 2017 at 7:21 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > Simon, I?ve had mine out twice, most recently last weekend when I > replaced it while the engine is out for a rebuild (it was a lot easier to > sit in the engine bay than reach over!). Using a long thin flat blade > screwdriver, loosen the terminals one at a time. I was perhaps fortunate > that my wires are basically ?trained? to lay in order so keeping them > straight was not a problem, but if in doubt label them first. Ira?s > right?seeing the color codes can be tricky unless everything is really > clean! Remove the bottom screw last. Removing the top 2 screws is the > problem as they are blocked by the air trunking. If there is no way to get > to them from the front, and there probably isn?t, you can drill them out > through the captive nuts in the wheel well. Yes, that ruins the nuts, but > there is an easy solution to that. Before reinstalling the relay unit, put > 2 U-type spring clip speed nuts on the flange over the outboard holes. > Install the bottom machine screw to finger tight to hold the unit in place, > then use 2 sheet metal screws through the drilled out nuts to secure the > top. Or 1 screw?I?m pretty sure 3 screws in that is overkill. You may > have to move the unit slightly side to side to line up the holes, but it > will work fine and is much easier than trying to go in from the front. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *i > erbs > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 21, 2017 9:19 AM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Pierre Henri Claret ; Healey List < > healeys at autox.team.net> > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box > > > > try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in between the > extensions > > I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read. > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Simon Lachlan < > simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote: > > My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey > standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have > to remove his from his LHD ?64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in the > way, plus its pipework and the steering column?..or is that a bit lower? > > Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what > does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The > usual in fact?. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Feb 22 09:39:19 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 08:39:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box References: <001401d28c57$7d4c6e10$77e54a30$@homecall.co.uk> <132a01d28d1f$5f53b670$1dfb2350$@roadrunner.com> Are these boxes sealed? We got into ours from a BN2, and had to drill out a couple spot welds. After installing a new harness, the turn indicators didn't function properly. 'Assuming' the problem was in the relay box, we opened it up only to find out later the harness had a couple wires mislabeled (wrong color/trace). This really pissed me off as otherwise I had the harness wired 100% correct (not to mention 'violating' an original flasher box). Bob On 2/22/2017 8:04 AM, i erbs wrote: > I don't have my air hoses in place yet, so It is a straight shot to > the top nuts. My mechanic removed mine and cleaned and adjusted the > internal points. It gets rusty in there. So Simon, you might take a > look inside once you get it out and I would bet you will find rust and > crud in there. Using a multi-meter you should be able to check the > contacts. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Wed, Feb 22, 2017 at 7:21 AM, Bruce Steele > > Simon, I?ve had mine out twice, most recently last weekend when I > replaced it while the engine is out for a rebuild (it was a lot > easier to sit in the engine bay than reach over!). Using a long > thin flat blade screwdriver, loosen the terminals one at a time. > I was perhaps fortunate that my wires are basically ?trained? to > lay in order so keeping them straight was not a problem, but if in > doubt label them first. Ira?s right?seeing the color codes can be > tricky unless everything is really clean! Remove the bottom > screw last. Removing the top 2 screws is the problem as they are > blocked by the air trunking. If there is no way to get to them > from the front, and there probably isn?t, you can drill them out > through the captive nuts in the wheel well. Yes, that ruins the > nuts, but there is an easy solution to that. Before reinstalling > the relay unit, put 2 U-type spring clip speed nuts on the flange > over the outboard holes. Install the bottom machine screw to > finger tight to hold the unit in place, then use 2 sheet metal > screws through the drilled out nuts to secure the top. Or 1 > screw?I?m pretty sure 3 screws in that is overkill. You may have > to move the unit slightly side to side to line up the holes, but > it will work fine and is much easier than trying to go in from the > front. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 21, 2017 9:19 AM > *To:* Simon Lachlan *Cc:* Pierre Henri Claret *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box > > try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in > between the extensions > > I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read. > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Simon Lachlan > > My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough > by Healey standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems > that my nephew may have to remove his from his LHD ?64 BJ8. So > the brake fluid reservoir is in the way, plus its pipework and > the steering column?..or is that a bit lower? > > Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major > kerfuffle or what does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble > jointed wrists and elbows? The usual in fact?. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Wed Feb 22 09:43:14 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 08:43:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box References: <001401d28c57$7d4c6e10$77e54a30$@homecall.co.uk> <132a01d28d1f$5f53b670$1dfb2350$@roadrunner.com> The first time I had mine out was to take it apart and replace the old relays with electronic parts following the instructions in the attached article from Healey Marque. One of the old relays had failed and my right front turn signal was not working. The rebuild worked well for years, but in the process of rebuilding it I broke one of the connectors and had to use an epoxy putty to hold it in place. It eventually got a little wobbly, so I decided to replace the unit last week with a new electronic one. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2017 8:05 AM To: Bruce Steele Cc: Simon Lachlan ; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box I don't have my air hoses in place yet, so It is a straight shot to the top nuts. My mechanic removed mine and cleaned and adjusted the internal points. It gets rusty in there. So Simon, you might take a look inside once you get it out and I would bet you will find rust and crud in there. Using a multi-meter you should be able to check the contacts. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words Simon, I?ve had mine out twice, most recently last weekend when I replaced it while the engine is out for a rebuild (it was a lot easier to sit in the engine bay than reach over!). Using a long thin flat blade screwdriver, loosen the terminals one at a time. I was perhaps fortunate that my wires are basically ?trained? to lay in order so keeping them straight was not a problem, but if in doubt label them first. Ira?s right?seeing the color codes can be tricky unless everything is really clean! Remove the bottom screw last. Removing the top 2 screws is the problem as they are blocked by the air trunking. If there is no way to get to them from the front, and there probably isn?t, you can drill them out through the captive nuts in the wheel well. Yes, that ruins the nuts, but there is an easy solution to that. Before reinstalling the relay unit, put 2 U-type spring clip speed nuts on the flange over the outboard holes. Install the bottom machine screw to finger tight to hold the unit in place, then use 2 sheet metal screws through the drilled out nuts to secure the top. Or 1 screw?I?m pretty sure 3 screws in that is overkill. You may have to move the unit slightly side to side to line up the holes, but it will work fine and is much easier than trying to go in from the front. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 9:19 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in between the extensions I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have to remove his from his LHD ?64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in the way, plus its pipework and the steering column?..or is that a bit lower? Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The usual in fact?. Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Trafficator relay box rebuild.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1410127 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Wed Feb 22 16:15:46 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 23:15:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box References: <001401d28c57$7d4c6e10$77e54a30$@homecall.co.uk> <132a01d28d1f$5f53b670$1dfb2350$@roadrunner.com> , <901f6c9e-2772-af0f-e98d-a5060c93314d@comcast.net> Bob, No these boxes are not sealed, they have three prongs, two at one end and one at the other that hold the cover in place. As Bruce Steele, I had done an article on these a while ago for Healey Marque, and I have done about a dozen of these and they are still working well and the outside liiks original. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: February 22, 2017 4:39 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box Are these boxes sealed? We got into ours from a BN2, and had to drill out a couple spot welds. After installing a new harness, the turn indicators didn't function properly. 'Assuming' the problem was in the relay box, we opened it up only to find out later the harness had a couple wires mislabeled (wrong color/trace). This really pissed me off as otherwise I had the harness wired 100% correct (not to mention 'violating' an original flasher box). Bob On 2/22/2017 8:04 AM, i erbs wrote: I don't have my air hoses in place yet, so It is a straight shot to the top nuts. My mechanic removed mine and cleaned and adjusted the internal points. It gets rusty in there. So Simon, you might take a look inside once you get it out and I would bet you will find rust and crud in there. Using a multi-meter you should be able to check the contacts. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words Simon, I?ve had mine out twice, most recently last weekend when I replaced it while the engine is out for a rebuild (it was a lot easier to sit in the engine bay than reach over!). Using a long thin flat blade screwdriver, loosen the terminals one at a time. I was perhaps fortunate that my wires are basically ?trained? to lay in order so keeping them straight was not a problem, but if in doubt label them first. Ira?s right?seeing the color codes can be tricky unless everything is really clean! Remove the bottom screw last. Removing the top 2 screws is the problem as they are blocked by the air trunking. If there is no way to get to them from the front, and there probably isn?t, you can drill them out through the captive nuts in the wheel well. Yes, that ruins the nuts, but there is an easy solution to that. Before reinstalling the relay unit, put 2 U-type spring clip speed nuts on the flange over the outboard holes. Install the bottom machine screw to finger tight to hold the unit in place, then use 2 sheet metal screws through the drilled out nuts to secure the top. Or 1 screw?I?m pretty sure 3 screws in that is overkill. You may have to move the unit slightly side to side to line up the holes, but it will work fine and is much easier than trying to go in from the front. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 9:19 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in between the extensions I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have to remove his from his LHD ?64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in the way, plus its pipework and the steering column?..or is that a bit lower? Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The usual in fact?. Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Wed Feb 22 18:00:20 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 17:00:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> I suggest you consider media blasting your manifold. Depending on the media you use you will get a different patina. Do not use aluminum oxide or any other really aggressive media as it will pit the aluminum. If you use good quality spherical glass beads it actually peens the aluminum. You get a really nice patina and it will resist oxidation, look cleaner and maintain that patina. Any coating or paint will not give you that naked aluminum look that is so natural. And, those glass beads that Harbor Fright sells are not the kind of quality beads I'm taking about. On Sun, Feb 19, 2017 at 9:55 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was > powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head > flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have > developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast > aluminum (see the attached photo). > > > > I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a big > fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you > out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my taste). I had > the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and > they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but > the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a > medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue > indicates. I?m going to call them Monday, but I?m not sure they have a > coating light enough. > > > > I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long term. > I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the > manifold uncoated. How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up to the heat? > What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Feb 22 18:30:41 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2017 01:30:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windshield Post Needed References: <1973478319.2955796.1487813441508.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Anyone on the list have an orphan driver's side 100-4 windshield post they would like to sell?? The two posts I do have are being polished instead of painted.? The polisher emailed me today to tell me the driver's side post was too badly pitted to polish without removing too much material. I have seen them polished and painted.? I think the polished version looks so much better.? I know it is not correct, but I am not going for a 100% car.? Then again, I am not putting a Japanese transmission in it either.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Wed Feb 22 21:10:10 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2017 04:10:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Gears References: , <5f3ba164-53ae-5d6b-7b6e-91e815a770f5@comcast.net> Actually it is simpler than that. The speedometer is trimmed by varying the amount of magnetic flux in the permanent magnets in the speedometer head. This is accomplished by placing the gauge in a machine that can adjust the magnet's strength. A good gauge shop can do this if they know the number of turns the cable makes when it runs over a set distance. Usually they ask you to count the number of turns the cable makes as the car is moved 53 feet. Multiplying by 1000 gives the number of turns per mile and the gaussing/degaussing machine does the rest. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2017 2:29:54 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lempert Gears Yep. Going from 3.9:1, for instance, to 3.54:1 will cause your speedo, odometer and trip meter to indicate about 11% low; e.g. if you're indicating 60MPH you'll be doing about 67. You can: 1) get new gears for the odometer/trip meter and get the speedo calibrated, 2) get an inline ratio adapter, 3) get a GPS with real-time speed readout 4) get good at multiplying by 1.11 in your head Bob On 2/21/2017 5:37 PM, 1 2 wrote: > Sorry if this has been asked and answered. Will the Lempert gears > change how the speedometer reads? Or is it independent? > > Thank you > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Wed Feb 22 21:14:56 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2017 04:14:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: , Does anyone have or know of a set of 32% planetary gears for sale? My car has been converted to the 28% ratio and I would like to go back. It might even make for a useful split between the 2nd OD and the 3rd normal gearing. Bill Lawrence BN! #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Alan Seigrist Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2017 3:06:15 AM To: Chris Scholz Cc: healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios If you have an early BN1, then the ratios are different. 4.125 and optional 3.66. If you have a really early BN1 like me, you have a 32% OD (my fav!) I switched my 4.11 to 3.54 and was very pleased. Sent from my iPhone Chris Scholz OD I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the best one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Feb 22 21:26:34 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 20:26:34 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Gears References: <5f3ba164-53ae-5d6b-7b6e-91e815a770f5@comcast.net> The odometer and trip meter gears are driven by a worm gear driven directly by the speedo cable. These have to be changed if the diff ratio is changed (well, if you want the odometer and trip meter to be accurate). These gears are known to crack and can produce a speed indicator that 'jumps' in proportion to speed. Thanks for the info on the speed indicator adjustment; always wondered how that was done. I thought they might change the 'watch' spring that resists the magnets. Bob On 2/22/2017 8:10 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > Actually it is simpler than that. The speedometer is trimmed by > varying the amount of magnetic flux in the permanent magnets in > the speedometer head. This is accomplished by placing the gauge in a > machine that can adjust the magnet's strength. A good gauge shop can > do this if they know the number of turns the cable makes when it runs > over a set distance. Usually they ask you to count the number of turns > the cable makes as the car is moved 53 feet. Multiplying by 1000 gives > the number of turns per mile and the gaussing/degaussing machine does > the rest. > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Wednesday, February 22, 2017 2:29:54 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Lempert Gears > Yep. Going from 3.9:1, for instance, to 3.54:1 will cause your speedo, > odometer and trip meter to indicate about 11% low; e.g. if you're > indicating 60MPH you'll be doing about 67. > > You can: > > 1) get new gears for the odometer/trip meter and get the speedo > calibrated, > > 2) get an inline ratio adapter, > > 3) get a GPS with real-time speed readout > > 4) get good at multiplying by 1.11 in your head > > Bob > > > On 2/21/2017 5:37 PM, 1 2 wrote: > > Sorry if this has been asked and answered. Will the Lempert gears > > change how the speedometer reads? Or is it independent? > > > > Thank you > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kerrygl at shaw.ca Thu Feb 23 21:40:47 2017 From: kerrygl at shaw.ca (kerry) Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2017 20:40:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box References: <001401d28c57$7d4c6e10$77e54a30$@homecall.co.uk> <132a01d28d1f$5f53b670$1dfb2350$@roadrunner.com> , <901f6c9e-2772-af0f-e98d-a5060c93314d@comcast.net> Thanks for the idea of going through the back to replace the flasherbox..I had thought about backing the two top scews out from the wheel well access just couldn't figure out how to get them back in after installing new box .maybe staring at it for a couple more months will help..darn air hose ! Right now I only make left turnsJ Kerry BT7 Victoria BC From: Jean Caron [mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com] Sent: February 22, 2017 3:16 PM To: Bob Spidell; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box Bob, No these boxes are not sealed, they have three prongs, two at one end and one at the other that hold the cover in place. As Bruce Steele, I had done an article on these a while ago for Healey Marque, and I have done about a dozen of these and they are still working well and the outside liiks original. Jean _____ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: February 22, 2017 4:39 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box Are these boxes sealed? We got into ours from a BN2, and had to drill out a couple spot welds. After installing a new harness, the turn indicators didn't function properly. 'Assuming' the problem was in the relay box, we opened it up only to find out later the harness had a couple wires mislabeled (wrong color/trace). This really pissed me off as otherwise I had the harness wired 100% correct (not to mention 'violating' an original flasher box). Bob On 2/22/2017 8:04 AM, i erbs wrote: I don't have my air hoses in place yet, so It is a straight shot to the top nuts. My mechanic removed mine and cleaned and adjusted the internal points. It gets rusty in there. So Simon, you might take a look inside once you get it out and I would bet you will find rust and crud in there. Using a multi-meter you should be able to check the contacts. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, Feb 22, 2017 at 7:21 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: Simon, I've had mine out twice, most recently last weekend when I replaced it while the engine is out for a rebuild (it was a lot easier to sit in the engine bay than reach over!). Using a long thin flat blade screwdriver, loosen the terminals one at a time. I was perhaps fortunate that my wires are basically "trained" to lay in order so keeping them straight was not a problem, but if in doubt label them first. Ira's right-seeing the color codes can be tricky unless everything is really clean! Remove the bottom screw last. Removing the top 2 screws is the problem as they are blocked by the air trunking. If there is no way to get to them from the front, and there probably isn't, you can drill them out through the captive nuts in the wheel well. Yes, that ruins the nuts, but there is an easy solution to that. Before reinstalling the relay unit, put 2 U-type spring clip speed nuts on the flange over the outboard holes. Install the bottom machine screw to finger tight to hold the unit in place, then use 2 sheet metal screws through the drilled out nuts to secure the top. Or 1 screw-I'm pretty sure 3 screws in that is overkill. You may have to move the unit slightly side to side to line up the holes, but it will work fine and is much easier than trying to go in from the front. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 9:19 AM To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Pierre Henri Claret ; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in between the extensions I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have to remove his from his LHD '64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in the way, plus its pipework and the steering column...or is that a bit lower? Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The usual in fact.. Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Fri Feb 24 03:10:21 2017 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 10:10:21 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? Team. This is a shout out to report a problem with the Austin Healey Club USA (Healey.org) website. I'm trying to renew my membership and the site isn't accepting my username/password. I know they are correct as they are written down in my secrets stash and also cached in my Chrome browser. On trying to exercise the 'forgotten password' link, that also fails as the 'Captcha' applet appears to be broken too. Any suggestions what the quick and dirty might be to get membership renewed as it expired 3 days ago (according to my Outlook calendar) and I don't want to miss my magazine fix? Cheers all. AlanB cid:image001.png at 01D18856.FC90FB60 --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 14962 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Feb 24 07:20:33 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 06:20:33 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? References: <059801d28e86$35ed6d40$a1c847c0$@gmail.com> Hmmm ... Didn't find any webmaster info, but the President's--Mark Schneider--phone# is on the 'Contact Us' page: 503-643-7208 I'd say this is an emergency; go straight to the top! Bob On 2/24/2017 2:10 AM, Bluehealey wrote: > > Team. > > This is a shout out to report a problem with the Austin Healey Club > USA (Healey.org) website. I?m trying to renew my membership and the > site isn?t accepting my username/password. I know they are correct as > they are written down in my secrets stash and also cached in my Chrome > browser. > > On trying to exercise the ?forgotten password? link, that also fails > as the ?Captcha? applet appears to be broken too. > > Any suggestions what the quick and dirty might be to get membership > renewed as it expired 3 days ago (according to my Outlook calendar) > and I don?t want to miss my magazine fix? > > Cheers all. > > AlanB > > cid:image001.png at 01D18856.FC90FB60 > > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: image/png Size: 14962 bytes Desc: not available URL: From edriver at sasktel.net Fri Feb 24 08:14:00 2017 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 09:14:00 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? References: <059801d28e86$35ed6d40$a1c847c0$@gmail.com> Hi Bob and Alan The web master of AHCUSA is Tracy Drummond his email address is bighealey AT charter.net and membership director is Mark Schneider Marksbj8 AT icloud.,com Cheers Ed Saskatoon, Saskatchewan On 24/02/2017 8:20 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Hmmm ... Didn't find any webmaster info, but the President's--Mark > Schneider--phone# is on the 'Contact Us' page: 503-643-7208 > > I'd say this is an emergency; go straight to the top! > > Bob > > > On 2/24/2017 2:10 AM, Bluehealey wrote: >> >> Team. >> >> This is a shout out to report a problem with the Austin Healey Club >> USA (Healey.org) website. I?m trying to renew my membership and the >> site isn?t accepting my username/password. I know they are correct as >> they are written down in my secrets stash and also cached in my >> Chrome browser. >> >> On trying to exercise the ?forgotten password? link, that also fails >> as the ?Captcha? applet appears to be broken too. >> >> Any suggestions what the quick and dirty might be to get membership >> renewed as it expired 3 days ago (according to my Outlook calendar) >> and I don?t want to miss my magazine fix? >> >> Cheers all. >> >> AlanB >> >> cid:image001.png at 01D18856.FC90FB60 >> >> >> >> Virus-free. www.avast.com >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: image/png Size: 14962 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Fri Feb 24 08:58:58 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 15:58:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? References: <059801d28e86$35ed6d40$a1c847c0$@gmail.com> Perhaps send a message to Tracy Drummond at bighealey at charter.net, he looks after the website. I just renewed my membership 4 days ago and has no problem. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bluehealey Sent: February 24, 2017 10:10 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? Team. This is a shout out to report a problem with the Austin Healey Club USA (Healey.org) website. I?m trying to renew my membership and the site isn?t accepting my username/password. I know they are correct as they are written down in my secrets stash and also cached in my Chrome browser. On trying to exercise the ?forgotten password? link, that also fails as the ?Captcha? applet appears to be broken too. Any suggestions what the quick and dirty might be to get membership renewed as it expired 3 days ago (according to my Outlook calendar) and I don?t want to miss my magazine fix? Cheers all. AlanB [cid:image001.png at 01D18856.FC90FB60] [https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif] Virus-free. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 14962 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From roggrace at telus.net Fri Feb 24 09:18:10 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 08:18:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Trans oil foaming I recently had the OD on my BJ8 apart to replace some parts ? bearing/accumulator/gaskets/O rings etc. For a first sort of sacrificial oil fill I decided to use a non detergent Castrol 30 wt oil. Date codes less than 18 months old. Plan was to switch to the expensive Redline MT90 after testing and after a few hundred miles. This 30 WT oil is often recommended by OD experts. I have built an electric variable speed rest rid to be able to test the transmission outside the car. Overdrive worked fine and transmission sounded OK and ran it for about 2 hours to get the temp up (52C on OD case) and hunt for leaks. So far so good. Then after a few days of standing, and 2 minutes of running, I drained the oil (to fix a leak) and was amazed to see that the oil had foamed badly and there were big classic fish eye bubbles on the surface of the oil. Ambient was about 14C. I did note that the oil coming out of the transmission was somewhat foamier than that from the overdrive drain plug. See enclosed pix. After standing overnight the oil looked normal again. What disturbs me is that unless I had drained the oil I would not have been aware of the foaming and put it into service .... Have now replaced with the MT90 that shows no sign of foaming on the dip stick. Wonder if others have any ideas about this weird phenomenon and is it a concern ? rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170128_122945.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 121928 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170127_210053.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 336102 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170127_210045.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 187940 bytes Desc: not available URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Fri Feb 24 11:02:06 2017 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 11:02:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heat Shield Install I would like to replace the heat shields in the engine bay of my BJ8. Is it possible with the engine in place? There are three screws across the one on the fire wall how do I get to the middle one? Can the foot well pieces be accessed from below? Any words of wisdom or direction would be wonderful. Thanks in advance. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Feb 24 13:02:34 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 12:02:34 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Heat Shield Install References: <889A0377-D268-4526-BE91-9DF490CE0CA2@gmail.com> If you remove the intake and exhaust manifolds and the screws are not rusty then you can replace the side panel on the pedal box. The problem is the one behind the cylinder head on the firewall. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: R. Lindsay Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 10:02 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Heat Shield Install I would like to replace the heat shields in the engine bay of my BJ8. Is it possible with the engine in place? There are three screws across the one on the fire wall how do I get to the middle one? Can the foot well pieces be accessed from below? Any words of wisdom or direction would be wonderful. Thanks in advance. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Fri Feb 24 13:57:46 2017 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 20:57:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Trans oil foaming References: <8515F329CB4643728B47B2F3B9EA5C52@WINDOWST93OFP9> The detergent foams when agitated. It is designed to hold particles in suspension. It works well in engines not in the gear box. Use 30 wt non detergent or MT-90 by Redline. It has been said that the detergent attacks the brass parts in the gear box. Also that the foam lowers the oil pressure needed in the over drive valve. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Roger Grace Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 8:18 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Trans oil foaming I recently had the OD on my BJ8 apart to replace some parts ? bearing/accumulator/gaskets/O rings etc. For a first sort of sacrificial oil fill I decided to use a non detergent Castrol 30 wt oil. Date codes less than 18 months old. Plan was to switch to the expensive Redline MT90 after testing and after a few hundred miles. This 30 WT oil is often recommended by OD experts. I have built an electric variable speed rest rid to be able to test the transmission outside the car. Overdrive worked fine and transmission sounded OK and ran it for about 2 hours to get the temp up (52C on OD case) and hunt for leaks. So far so good. Then after a few days of standing, and 2 minutes of running, I drained the oil (to fix a leak) and was amazed to see that the oil had foamed badly and there were big classic fish eye bubbles on the surface of the oil. Ambient was about 14C. I did note that the oil coming out of the transmission was somewhat foamier than that from the overdrive drain plug. See enclosed pix. After standing overnight the oil looked normal again. What disturbs me is that unless I had drained the oil I would not have been aware of the foaming and put it into service .... Have now replaced with the MT90 that shows no sign of foaming on the dip stick. Wonder if others have any ideas about this weird phenomenon and is it a concern ? rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Fri Feb 24 14:16:52 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 13:16:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Trans oil foaming References: <8515F329CB4643728B47B2F3B9EA5C52@WINDOWST93OFP9> hMw0ctpmJdFL0hMw1csKxp This foaming is with NON detergent SAE 30 oil ... rg From: Richard Kahn Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 12:57 PM To: Healey List ; Roger Grace Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trans oil foaming The detergent foams when agitated. It is designed to hold particles in suspension. It works well in engines not in the gear box. Use 30 wt non detergent or MT-90 by Redline. It has been said that the detergent attacks the brass parts in the gear box. Also that the foam lowers the oil pressure needed in the over drive valve. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Healeys on behalf of Roger Grace Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 8:18 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Trans oil foaming I recently had the OD on my BJ8 apart to replace some parts ? bearing/accumulator/gaskets/O rings etc. For a first sort of sacrificial oil fill I decided to use a non detergent Castrol 30 wt oil. Date codes less than 18 months old. Plan was to switch to the expensive Redline MT90 after testing and after a few hundred miles. This 30 WT oil is often recommended by OD experts. I have built an electric variable speed rest rid to be able to test the transmission outside the car. Overdrive worked fine and transmission sounded OK and ran it for about 2 hours to get the temp up (52C on OD case) and hunt for leaks. So far so good. Then after a few days of standing, and 2 minutes of running, I drained the oil (to fix a leak) and was amazed to see that the oil had foamed badly and there were big classic fish eye bubbles on the surface of the oil. Ambient was about 14C. I did note that the oil coming out of the transmission was somewhat foamier than that from the overdrive drain plug. See enclosed pix. After standing overnight the oil looked normal again. What disturbs me is that unless I had drained the oil I would not have been aware of the foaming and put it into service .... Have now replaced with the MT90 that shows no sign of foaming on the dip stick. Wonder if others have any ideas about this weird phenomenon and is it a concern ? rg No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/14013 - Release Date: 02/24/17 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Fri Feb 24 16:42:28 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 18:42:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive While the subject of overdrives is being discussed, I have come across ongoing problems with the overdrive of my 66BJ8. The overdrive is filled with 30 WT non-detergent oil and after running the engine, for about an hour, with all 4 corners on jack stands, the trans oil level is spot on the line between "low" and "high". Now for the problems; 1. The overdrive does not disengage when turned off. The hole in the lever on the right side of the trans lines up with the hole in the case when the OD is activated. 2. When I turn the solenoid power off, the solenoid lever does not fall from the engaged position. I suspect the lever may be pushed against the trans case and the friction does not allow the lever to drop down. When I move the lever by hand, it is not loose, it requires some pressure to get it to move. The solenoid does not have a problem lifting the lever when I apply power. 3. I cannot get a wrench to fit the pinch bolt to release the lever from the valve operating shaft. What size nut/bolt "should the pinch bolt be? 3. The solenoid does not release when the dash or ignition switch is turned off, (checked with a volt meter). What could still be sending power to the solenoid? What electrical part should I check first and how? I have been struggling with trying to resolve this OD problem on and off during the winter and as the weather is now getting nice, I would like to get this resolved. Help!!!! Fred 63 BJ7 deceased 66 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwhlyadv at aol.com Fri Feb 24 17:03:19 2017 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 19:03:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? I am having the same problem so please share your findings. Jim Werner -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys Sent: Fri, Feb 24, 2017 3:47 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? Hmmm ... Didn't find any webmaster info, but the President's--Mark Schneider--phone# is on the 'Contact Us' page: 503-643-7208 I'd say this is an emergency; go straight to the top! Bob On 2/24/2017 2:10 AM, Bluehealey wrote: Team. This is a shout out to report a problem with the Austin Healey Club USA (Healey.org) website. I?m trying to renew my membership and the site isn?t accepting my username/password. I know they are correct as they are written down in my secrets stash and also cached in my Chrome browser. On trying to exercise the ?forgotten password? link, that also fails as the ?Captcha? applet appears to be broken too. Any suggestions what the quick and dirty might be to get membership renewed as it expired 3 days ago (according to my Outlook calendar) and I don?t want to miss my magazine fix? Cheers all. AlanB Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Image Type: image/png Size: 14962 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Feb 24 17:40:59 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 16:40:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive References: Fred, the solenoid will stay engaged when the switch is turned off until you accelerate beyond about 1? of pedal movement. The bolts on the overdrive adjustment are 7/16 or a 1/4 British which are almost the same size. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Fred Wescoe Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 3:42 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive While the subject of overdrives is being discussed, I have come across ongoing problems with the overdrive of my 66BJ8. The overdrive is filled with 30 WT non-detergent oil and after running the engine, for about an hour, with all 4 corners on jack stands, the trans oil level is spot on the line between "low" and "high". Now for the problems; 1. The overdrive does not disengage when turned off. The hole in the lever on the right side of the trans lines up with the hole in the case when the OD is activated. 2. When I turn the solenoid power off, the solenoid lever does not fall from the engaged position. I suspect the lever may be pushed against the trans case and the friction does not allow the lever to drop down. When I move the lever by hand, it is not loose, it requires some pressure to get it to move. The solenoid does not have a problem lifting the lever when I apply power. 3. I cannot get a wrench to fit the pinch bolt to release the lever from the valve operating shaft. What size nut/bolt "should the pinch bolt be? 3. The solenoid does not release when the dash or ignition switch is turned off, (checked with a volt meter). What could still be sending power to the solenoid? What electrical part should I check first and how? I have been struggling with trying to resolve this OD problem on and off during the winter and as the weather is now getting nice, I would like to get this resolved. Help!!!! Fred 63 BJ7 deceased 66 BJ8 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ghaywood at ec.rr.com Fri Feb 24 18:50:40 2017 From: ghaywood at ec.rr.com (George Haywood) Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2017 1:50:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Fred, It sounds like you may need to check the overdrive throttle switch on the firewall. If it is not activating (deactivating) or set properly the electrical circuit to the solenoid is not broken even though you turn off the dash switch. The throttle switch is designed to cut out power to the solenoid when the gas pedal is depressed I think about 1/5 or so of the way to full throttle. There is a procedure for that test in your shop manual. Take care, George Haywood '65 bj8 ---- Fred Wescoe wrote: > While the subject of overdrives is being discussed, I have come across > ongoing problems with the overdrive of my 66BJ8. > > The overdrive is filled with 30 WT non-detergent oil and after running the > engine, for about an hour, with all 4 corners on jack stands, the trans oil > level is spot on the line between "low" and "high". > > Now for the problems; > > 1. The overdrive does not disengage when turned off. The hole in the > lever on the right side of the trans lines up with the hole in the case > when the OD is activated. > > 2. When I turn the solenoid power off, the solenoid lever does not fall > from the engaged position. I suspect the lever may be pushed against the > trans case and the friction does not allow the lever to drop down. When I > move the lever by hand, it is not loose, it requires some pressure to get > it to move. The solenoid does not have a problem lifting the lever when I > apply power. > > 3. I cannot get a wrench to fit the pinch bolt to release the lever from > the valve operating shaft. What size nut/bolt "should the pinch bolt be? > > 3. The solenoid does not release when the dash or ignition switch is > turned off, (checked with a volt meter). What could still be sending power > to the solenoid? What electrical part should I check first and how? > > I have been struggling with trying to resolve this OD problem on and off > during the winter and as the weather is now getting nice, I would like to > get this resolved. > > Help!!!! > > Fred > > 63 BJ7 deceased > > 66 BJ8 From dcorning at ford.com Fri Feb 24 20:29:05 2017 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2017 03:29:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please References: <001d01d28694$05999a00$10ccce00$@homecall.co.uk> <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC70704C6C@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> My flasher was having trouble and flashing too fast on one side. I went to O'Rileys auto parts, bought a Novita EL12 flasher and swapped the guts into the Lucas can. Took my time opening the cans, fit perfect, flashes just right regardless of loads and it's brighter. (Had to tap the screw threads into the terminals) [cid:image005.png at 01D28EE5.04BA2A10] [cid:image006.png at 01D28EE5.04BA2A10] Best, Dan Corning From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed O'Neal Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 8:00 AM To: Simon Lachlan; 'Healey List' Cc: Pierre Henri Claret Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please This is a recreation of the BT7 wiring diagram in ladder logic format (there's one for positive ground and one for negative). The only difference is the reversing of the coil connections to maintain the same direction of current to the spark plugs. It is not accurate for a BJ8, but is accurate with respect to the "8-way flasher box relay", so maybe it can help you sort out the problem. Edward J. O'Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O'Neal Associates, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 phone: (239) 245-8728 cell: (239) 410-6174 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 2:29 AM To: 'Healey List' Cc: Pierre Henri Claret Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please BJ8 with combined side/indicators/brake lights. NOT the late phase II with the extra lights. So,...the relay. By this I mean the round silver can with 1 wire from P to the dash, 1 from B to the 35 amp feed & 1 from L to T8 on the dreaded 8-way flasher relay box. Now, the LHS indicators work and the RHS don't. Well, they've worked occasionally. My question is this:- If one side works, then the relay works?? There's no way that the relay can function on one side only? It sends current down one wire only, so, if the LHS works, then the relay is doing its job????? Right????? I remain very prepared to be confounded. My logic(?) usually fails when I'm in front of a wiring diagram. In fact, I would be thrilled just to be able to fix the problem with a cheap part. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.png Type: image/png Size: 381223 bytes Desc: image005.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 363706 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sat Feb 25 00:44:01 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 21:44:01 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] Purple Onion Healey Sad prognosis for the driver of the "Purple Onion" Healey: http://jacksonville.com/news/2017-02-21/veteran-race-car-driver-life-now-race-finish Rick Neville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drwit at hotmail.com Sat Feb 25 07:41:20 2017 From: drwit at hotmail.com (DAVID WITTMER) Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2017 14:41:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? References: <059801d28e86$35ed6d40$a1c847c0$@gmail.com> I also have had the same experience with membership renewal and have not been able to renew. Dave Wittmer Sent from my iPad Team. This is a shout out to report a problem with the Austin Healey Club USA (Healey.org) website. I?m trying to renew my membership and the site isn?t accepting my username/password. I know they are correct as they are written down in my secrets stash and also cached in my Chrome browser. On trying to exercise the ?forgotten password? link, that also fails as the ?Captcha? applet appears to be broken too. Any suggestions what the quick and dirty might be to get membership renewed as it expired 3 days ago (according to my Outlook calendar) and I don?t want to miss my magazine fix? Cheers all. AlanB [https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif] Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 14962 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Sat Feb 25 22:47:58 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2017 05:47:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please References: <001d01d28694$05999a00$10ccce00$@homecall.co.uk> <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC70704C6C@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local>, <68c2f245b02048f6b542af4fdb5e7b0f@naecmb26.exchange.ford.com> The flasher will flash faster if one of the lamps is out. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Corning, Dan (D.C.) Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2017 3:29:05 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please My flasher was having trouble and flashing too fast on one side. I went to O?Rileys auto parts, bought a Novita EL12 flasher and swapped the guts into the Lucas can. Took my time opening the cans, fit perfect, flashes just right regardless of loads and it?s brighter. (Had to tap the screw threads into the terminals) [cid:image005.png at 01D28EE5.04BA2A10] [cid:image006.png at 01D28EE5.04BA2A10] Best, Dan Corning From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed O'Neal Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 8:00 AM To: Simon Lachlan; 'Healey List' Cc: Pierre Henri Claret Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please This is a recreation of the BT7 wiring diagram in ladder logic format (there?s one for positive ground and one for negative). The only difference is the reversing of the coil connections to maintain the same direction of current to the spark plugs. It is not accurate for a BJ8, but is accurate with respect to the ?8-way flasher box relay?, so maybe it can help you sort out the problem. Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 phone: (239) 245-8728 cell: (239) 410-6174 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 2:29 AM To: 'Healey List' Cc: Pierre Henri Claret Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please BJ8 with combined side/indicators/brake lights. NOT the late phase II with the extra lights. So,?the relay. By this I mean the round silver can with 1 wire from P to the dash, 1 from B to the 35 amp feed & 1 from L to T8 on the dreaded 8-way flasher relay box. Now, the LHS indicators work and the RHS don?t. Well, they?ve worked occasionally. My question is this:- If one side works, then the relay works?? There?s no way that the relay can function on one side only? It sends current down one wire only, so, if the LHS works, then the relay is doing its job????? Right????? I remain very prepared to be confounded. My logic(?) usually fails when I?m in front of a wiring diagram. In fact, I would be thrilled just to be able to fix the problem with a cheap part. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.png Type: image/png Size: 381223 bytes Desc: image005.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 363706 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Feb 27 11:56:56 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2017 10:56:56 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Parts Listers, I have some used and new/leftover parts from a recent rebuild of my BJ8's engine. The used parts might be suitable for a 'budget build,' and I'm offering them free (you pick up shipping). The new parts are offered at a significant discount to retail (again, you pick up shipping). They include: Used: * Pistons (6) - These are 0.030" oversize, and are in remarkable shape (see attached photos of one that has been cleaned-up and one in 'original' condition, as are the 5 others). The wrist pins are perfect, but the ring lands might require a small shim. These performed well in my car until removed. Note only one was cleaned-up, but I see no evidence of damage on the other 5. * Valves (intake and exhaust) - The exhaust valves are stellite SS, and show no wear on the shaft--nor do the intake valves--which might require a slight polish only. The faces are fine, but with expected 'carbon' buildup. I have no idea if valves can or should be reused, but if they can these are perfect candidates (some of the seats had receded, but the valves showed minimal if any wear--I can't really tell). * Full set of springs (double type) - These might have lost some 'spring,' and were shimmed to beef them up (shims available). I tested the head on the bench, and all cylinders retained fluid except one, so it appears the springs were exerting sufficient pressure. * Bronze/silicon valve guides - These show no apparent wear and appear to be better quality than the new set I replaced them with. In over 100K miles I never had an issue with binding ('top hat' style seals available). * Valve collars (Moss# 031-228) - These show some wear, probably due to the springs rotating, but appear serviceable. New: * Main and con rod bearings (0.010" under) - I bought these a while ago expecting my crankshaft would need to be ground under, but it's still STD after almost 200K miles. These are high quality ACL 'Duraglide' brand from Australia. $50 * Moss Healey engine metallic green paint - Two cans at $10/ea (retail: $20.99). I'm only selling these because I already have a couple cans and this stuff degrades if not used within a year or two (BTW, my engine builder thought this paint was excellent, and wished he could find similar quality for the SBC, Hemi and other builds he does). * Intake/exhaust manifold brass nuts (10) - These retail for $5/ea. My engine builder reused the old ones before I could get these to him (he thought the used ones were fine). I've been told the ones Moss is currently offering are not exactly correct (FWIW). $25 for all 10. Usually, I'd chuck the used stuff, but thought I'd check and see if someone can make use of them. I'd keep the new stuff--'just in case'--but this is the last rebuild this engine will receive (from me, at least). Cheers, Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: piston1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 109952 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: piston2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 105302 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: piston3.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 101512 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Feb 27 20:26:53 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2017 19:26:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Parts References: The bearings are spoken for. Bob On 2/27/2017 10:56 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Listers, > > I have some used and new/leftover parts from a recent rebuild of my > BJ8's engine. The used parts might be suitable for a 'budget build,' > and I'm offering them free (you pick up shipping). The new parts are > offered at a significant discount to retail (again, you pick up > shipping). They include: > > Used: > > * Pistons (6) - These are 0.030" oversize, and are in remarkable > shape (see attached photos of one that has been cleaned-up and one > in 'original' condition, as are the 5 others). The wrist pins are > perfect, but the ring lands might require a small shim. These > performed well in my car until removed. Note only one was > cleaned-up, but I see no evidence of damage on the other 5. > * Valves (intake and exhaust) - The exhaust valves are stellite SS, > and show no wear on the shaft--nor do the intake valves--which > might require a slight polish only. The faces are fine, but with > expected 'carbon' buildup. I have no idea if valves can or should > be reused, but if they can these are perfect candidates (some of > the seats had receded, but the valves showed minimal if any > wear--I can't really tell). > * Full set of springs (double type) - These might have lost some > 'spring,' and were shimmed to beef them up (shims available). I > tested the head on the bench, and all cylinders retained fluid > except one, so it appears the springs were exerting sufficient > pressure. > * Bronze/silicon valve guides - These show no apparent wear and > appear to be better quality than the new set I replaced them > with. In over 100K miles I never had an issue with binding ('top > hat' style seals available). > * Valve collars (Moss# 031-228) - These show some wear, probably due > to the springs rotating, but appear serviceable. > > New: > > * Main and con rod bearings (0.010" under) - I bought these a while > ago expecting my crankshaft would need to be ground under, but > it's still STD after almost 200K miles. These are high quality > ACL 'Duraglide' brand from Australia. $50 > * Moss Healey engine metallic green paint - Two cans at $10/ea > (retail: $20.99). I'm only selling these because I already have a > couple cans and this stuff degrades if not used within a year or > two (BTW, my engine builder thought this paint was excellent, and > wished he could find similar quality for the SBC, Hemi and other > builds he does). > * Intake/exhaust manifold brass nuts (10) - These retail for $5/ea. > My engine builder reused the old ones before I could get these to > him (he thought the used ones were fine). I've been told the ones > Moss is currently offering are not exactly correct (FWIW). $25 > for all 10. > > Usually, I'd chuck the used stuff, but thought I'd check and see if > someone can make use of them. I'd keep the new stuff--'just in > case'--but this is the last rebuild this engine will receive (from me, > at least). > > Cheers, > > Bob > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Feb 27 23:32:03 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 17:32:03 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Greetings Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Tue Feb 28 00:17:28 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 17:17:28 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference References: <00ee01d2918c$618e2440$24aa6cc0$@tpg.com.au> ....what do you mean by 'within the groove' Patrick? Pulley diameter? If so do you mean cm rather than inches? Cheers Peter From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 4:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Greetings Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Feb 28 00:44:35 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 18:44:35 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference References: <00ee01d2918c$618e2440$24aa6cc0$@tpg.com.au> <0CB508A289BC4255836F126EAE7C45AA@Notebook> Hello Peter I am referring to the circumference within the narrowest point of the V section of the pulley. It?s measured in inches or all the way around the outside of the pulley, but at the narrowest point of the V. Hoo Roo Patrick From: Peter & Veronica [mailto:greylinn at ozemail.com.au] Sent: Tuesday, 28 February 2017 6:17 PM To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference ....what do you mean by 'within the groove' Patrick? Pulley diameter? If so do you mean cm rather than inches? Cheers Peter From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 4:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Greetings Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Tue Feb 28 01:24:26 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 18:24:26 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference References: <00ee01d2918c$618e2440$24aa6cc0$@tpg.com.au> <0CB508A289BC4255836F126EAE7C45AA@Notebook> Hi Patrick I don?t have a BN3 one to measure, but a 29D ex Mk1 circumference measures 295mm approx (approx 11.5?) at the bottom. Do you have the later narrow belt or the wider one off the 4 cylinder cars? Regards John Rowe Qld. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter & Veronica Sent: Tuesday, 28 February 2017 5:17 PM To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference ....what do you mean by 'within the groove' Patrick? Pulley diameter? If so do you mean cm rather than inches? Cheers Peter From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 4:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Greetings Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Feb 28 02:13:28 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 20:13:28 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference References: <00ee01d2918c$618e2440$24aa6cc0$@tpg.com.au> <0CB508A289BC4255836F126EAE7C45AA@Notebook> <000601d2919c$13aff4f0$3b0fded0$@com.au> Hello It?s a C26W or Wolseley six-cylinder engine with a standard 3/8 in wide belt. Hoo Roo Patrick From: John Rowe [mailto:john at jtkarowe.com.au] Sent: Tuesday, 28 February 2017 7:24 PM To: 'Peter & Veronica'; 'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Hi Patrick I don?t have a BN3 one to measure, but a 29D ex Mk1 circumference measures 295mm approx (approx 11.5?) at the bottom. Do you have the later narrow belt or the wider one off the 4 cylinder cars? Regards John Rowe Qld. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter & Veronica Sent: Tuesday, 28 February 2017 5:17 PM To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference ....what do you mean by 'within the groove' Patrick? Pulley diameter? If so do you mean cm rather than inches? Cheers Peter From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 4:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Greetings Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Feb 28 02:52:48 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 20:52:48 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference References: <00ee01d2918c$618e2440$24aa6cc0$@tpg.com.au> Hey Patrick, why don't you press the pulley off the old pump and reuse it on the new pump? The only repro water pumps I've bought are the BJ8 ones. They have a pulley that just looks totally wrong. Too big & square sided. Use the old one. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone > On 28 Feb. 2017, at 5:32 pm, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > > Greetings > > Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. > > I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. > > Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. > > Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. > > Many thanks > > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Feb 28 03:12:09 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 10:12:09 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference References: <00ee01d2918c$618e2440$24aa6cc0$@tpg.com.au> I?ve got 2 rebuilt ones here. One of each type, both narrow. Both off 6 cylinder cars. Early type 11&3/8? Later type 10&3/4? Not easy to measure though I did each a couple of times. Comments? Good luck with a County pump! From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: 28 February 2017 06:32 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Greetings Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Feb 28 14:09:07 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 13:09:07 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] LA Visit I'm going to be in LA April 1-5 and was wondering if there is any LBC stuff going on? I want to visit the refurbished Petersen Museum, but what else? I'll be staying in the San Fernado Valley. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Feb 28 18:35:27 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2017 12:35:27 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference References: <00ee01d2918c$618e2440$24aa6cc0$@tpg.com.au> <9595A767-077E-40BE-843B-D8D8E9848E4B@gmail.com> <002001d291b2$f2ba5670$d82f0350$@homecall.co.uk> <256104F4-B23C-4BA5-B4AA-53BB6B4F6739@gmail.com> Hello I have found out that the pulley circumference on the very early C-series engines is larger. It was changed soon after the first six-cylinder BMC cars were released on the market. The engine fitted to our car is within the first 1,000 C-series engines built and was supplied to the Donald Healey Motor Company for their attention. Believe me I would have preferred to rebuild the original pump, but a new impeller could not be found. If someone has one I would be very interested. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, 1 March 2017 12:27 PM To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Very comprehensive article Simon! I bought a new pump back in 1998 when the car was rebuilt. When it failed in 2013, I dug out the original pump and rebuilt it, following the Mike Salter instructions. I found a NOS bearing, and used a modern seal. The critical dimension is the impeller to body clearance of 20 thou. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 28 Feb. 2017, at 10:08 pm, Simon Lachlan wrote: Good idea, assuming it?s the press-on type. Certainly, I?ve been led to believe that the County pumps are pretty awful and, when my pump started to play up, I went the rebuild route. Didn?t seem worth putting in a suspect part, especially one that is so vital. Interestingly, when I was looking for pump bodies/pulleys that I could rebuild, I was given a couple by a friend. Both were County; he?s on his third now. I wrote an article for our local club?.waste of print as few, if any, of them lift a spanner. However, I attach it herewith. You?ll see that I rely heavily on Mike Salter?s good offices ie for info and for parts. NOS pumps go for a fortune over here, unless you get one for a Wolseley or Westie or the like. Then just swap the pulley. See article for more on that???but I?d guess both of you are pretty skilled at scavenging from those old BMC saloons that our American friends wouldn?t recognize if they were parked on their lawn! Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock Sent: 28 February 2017 09:53 To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Hey Patrick, why don't you press the pulley off the old pump and reuse it on the new pump? The only repro water pumps I've bought are the BJ8 ones. They have a pulley that just looks totally wrong. Too big & square sided. Use the old one. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 28 Feb. 2017, at 5:32 pm, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Greetings Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Feb 1 06:03:38 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2017 14:03:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Ethanol References: <000301d277f6$20e6c320$62b44960$@homecall.co.uk> <1b7feb54-9c7f-8d7e-03d8-7d628186c316@chello.nl> <532867142.104914937.1485531792988.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Not correct. E95 stands for Euro95 i.e. 95 octane rating. I caused the confusion by using E95, I should have used Euro95, sorry. Euro95 may contain up to 5% ethanol. Most have some, few have no ethanol. There is some cheaper 95 octane petrol available with up to 10% ethanol and there are some higher octane fuels. In Germany it can be as high as 103 octane. In the rest of Europe the highest is mostly 98 octane. However Euro95 is the standard petrol. Kees Oudesluijs Op 27-1-2017 om 16:43 schreef Bob Spidell: > OK, now I be confused. In the States, E10 is 10% ethanol, E85 is 85% > ethanol, so E95 would be 95% ethanol. Is that correct? > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From: *"Oudesluys" > *To: *"healeys" > *Sent: *Friday, January 27, 2017 4:25:03 AM > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Ethanol > > Op 26-1-2017 om 23:59 schreef Oudesluys: > > It is not likely you will encounter real problems as you have > > presumably used E85 for years > > Should of course be E95 > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Feb 2 09:27:45 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2017 08:27:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] no Healey content, but a great car story http://petrolicious.com/apartment-find-this-ferrari-250-gt-pf-coupe-was-hidden-in-hollywood-for-decades Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Fri Feb 3 12:23:25 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2017 11:23:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> <030001d275aa$7e5adda0$7b1098e0$@rr.com> I though it was more of a reference to current events than "politics". On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 11:30 PM, Derek Job wrote: > Keep politics out of the list. > > On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 6:57 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > >> John, I think Josef's point was that (similar to one of Mr. Trump's >> "alternative facts"), 3000 M's are being claimed whereas we all know only >> 640 were originally built. >> >> That's like the 99% of all BJ8s in existence being "1967s" no matter what >> year they were built. [image: winking0001.gif] >> >> >> >> Steve Byers >> >> HBJ8L/36666 >> >> BJ8 Registry >> >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> >> Havelock, NC >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *John >> Harper >> *Sent:* Monday, January 23, 2017 11:49 AM >> *To:* josef-eckert at t-online.de >> *Cc:* Healeys, Forum >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms >> >> >> >> What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but >> not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans. >> >> >> >> John Harper >> >> >> >> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary >> >> >> >> On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de < >> josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote: >> >> Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 >> Factory 100Ms still exist.[image: cool] >> >> >> >> Josef Eckert >> >> K?nigswinter/Germany >> >> ? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Best wishes >> >> >> >> John Harper >> >> >> >> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary >> ------------------------------ >> >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13781 - Release Date: 01/16/17 >> Internal Virus Database is out of date. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 696 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Feb 3 16:43:19 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2017 15:43:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms References: <1485188869759.5386833.cfec1d106167a7bcbf1258b1c02f69435f742ea4@spica.telekom.de> <030001d275aa$7e5adda0$7b1098e0$@rr.com> Hiw do you parse those two? Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Feb 3, 2017 3:09 PM, "richard mayor" wrote: I though it was more of a reference to current events than "politics". On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 11:30 PM, Derek Job wrote: > Keep politics out of the list. > > On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 6:57 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > >> John, I think Josef's point was that (similar to one of Mr. Trump's >> "alternative facts"), 3000 M's are being claimed whereas we all know only >> 640 were originally built. >> >> That's like the 99% of all BJ8s in existence being "1967s" no matter what >> year they were built. [image: winking0001.gif] >> >> >> >> Steve Byers >> >> HBJ8L/36666 >> >> BJ8 Registry >> >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> >> Havelock, NC >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *John >> Harper >> *Sent:* Monday, January 23, 2017 11:49 AM >> *To:* josef-eckert at t-online.de >> *Cc:* Healeys, Forum >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] More than 3000 Factory 100Ms >> >> >> >> What a load of rubbish! There might be a large number of conversions but >> not originals. Conversions should be call Le Mans. >> >> >> >> John Harper >> >> >> >> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary >> >> >> >> On 23 January 2017 at 16:27, josef-eckert at t-online.de < >> josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote: >> >> Just heart there is an alternative fact that there are more than 3000 >> Factory 100Ms still exist.[image: cool] >> >> >> >> Josef Eckert >> >> K?nigswinter/Germany >> >> ? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Best wishes >> >> >> >> John Harper >> >> >> >> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary >> ------------------------------ >> >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 2016.0.7996 / Virus Database: 4749/13781 - Release Date: 01/16/17 >> Internal Virus Database is out of date. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.gif Type: image/gif Size: 354 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 696 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ahbt71 at gmail.com Fri Feb 3 20:07:24 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2017 20:07:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 Hey Y'all, About ready to install and wire the dash on the BT7 and looking for ideas on how to add a couple switches without cutting any holes in the dash. I'll be installing a DW safety steering column which has no stator tube so I need homes for the indicators and the horn. Thinking a two position switch and a momentary switch. Thanks and Cheers, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sat Feb 4 02:40:16 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 09:40:16 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 References: You could make a small right-angled bracket and fasten it beneath the heater controls. You?ll be able to use the existing fasteners. I?ve done that and found, coincidentally, that others have done the same. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: 04 February 2017 03:07 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 Hey Y'all, About ready to install and wire the dash on the BT7 and looking for ideas on how to add a couple switches without cutting any holes in the dash. I'll be installing a DW safety steering column which has no stator tube so I need homes for the indicators and the horn. Thinking a two position switch and a momentary switch. Thanks and Cheers, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sat Feb 4 05:16:26 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 12:16:26 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 References: Thinking about this some more, I recall some cars that had indicator sticks on the steering wheel. They came apart and clamped on between the dash and the wheel. Maybe old Landrovers, Morris Minors, early Minis?cars like that. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: 04 February 2017 03:07 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 Hey Y'all, About ready to install and wire the dash on the BT7 and looking for ideas on how to add a couple switches without cutting any holes in the dash. I'll be installing a DW safety steering column which has no stator tube so I need homes for the indicators and the horn. Thinking a two position switch and a momentary switch. Thanks and Cheers, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sat Feb 4 13:33:28 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 10:33:28 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 References: Mike, Take a look at where I mounted my Halda Speedpilot: http://s81.photobucket.com/user/healeyrick/media/IMG_0324_zpsdc963f63.jpg.html?sort=3&o=255 It fits into an "L" shaped bracket that is secured by the two screws that hold the air controls to the bottom of the dash. You could make up a panel to fit your switches in the same fashion and maybe cover it with the same material as your dash. Holden has a nice push button horn switch that would be easier to activate than a toggle: https://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=1&pgCode=020&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Switches&agCode=0517&agName=Horn+%26+Dip+Switches&pCode=SPB160 Look around on their website, they have just about any switch you could want for an LBC Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Fri, Feb 3, 2017 at 5:07 PM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Hey Y'all, > About ready to install and wire the dash on the BT7 and looking for ideas > on how to add a couple switches without cutting any holes in the dash. > I'll be installing a DW safety steering column which has no stator tube so > I need homes for the indicators and the horn. Thinking a two position > switch and a momentary switch. > Thanks and Cheers, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rft2 at aol.com Sat Feb 4 13:48:01 2017 From: rft2 at aol.com (rft2 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 15:48:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems In an attempt to tighten up the front end on my BJ8, I've purchased reconditioned armstrong shocks for the front and back. Starting into the project, I'm already at my first challenge. On the passenger side all four bolts are upside down and when I try to loosen the bolts just spin. Reading through some articles by Norman Nock, it sounds like these bolts may have at some point come loose, striped the threads on both the bolts and shock plate, or striped off the nuts. Does anyone have suggestions on how I should proceed? Mal Hickok Richland, MI BJ8 - 1967 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From waschu2 at gmail.com Sat Feb 4 13:49:38 2017 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 15:49:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] WTB BJ8 rear end housing Hello, I have a 1967 Healey with bent rear axle tubes. While investigating an axle leak it became apparent something more serious then a bad seal or gasket was going on. At a minimum I just need the late style rear end housing, but I might be interested in a complete assembly if someone has one for sale and does not want to disassemble it. I live in Western Ct. The plan is to try and straighten mine at a later date and not have the car apart any longer then necessary. The bare housing is pretty light and can be shipped. If someone has a complete assembly and not to far from Ct. I have a truck that I could use to pick it up with. Picture are nice if you have one for sale. Thanks Wayne From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sat Feb 4 18:39:11 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 17:39:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 dip stick References: <45953923.84747847.1485368628906.JavaMail.root@shaw.ca> <00a101d27754$2dc3ca90$894b5fb0$@rr.com> Since we're on this topic, I need a BJ8 dipstick. The Moss price for one is outrageous. Does anyone have one for sale at a decent price--------or, has anyone on the list made one. I'm inclined to make my own. On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 1:44 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > It depends on which 3000 you are talking about. For BJ7 (and BJ8 engines > up to serial number 29K/RU/H278) the dipstick measures about 1/16" shy of > 11 inches from the "max" line to the bottom of the washer. BJ8 engines > 29K/RU/H279 and up are about 1/16" shy of 16 inches. > > I don't know about earlier models. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *RAYMOND > SMITHSON > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 25, 2017 1:24 PM > *To:* Healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] 3000 dip stick > > > > Can anyone tell me the distance from the stop washer to the max fill line > on a 6 cylinder engine oil dip stick? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Feb 4 21:57:47 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2017 23:57:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] WTB BJ8 rear end housing References: <2275145b-2920-fde4-7d12-e07d0432ddce@gmail.com> Hi Wayne, We bent a BN1 housing whilst crossing a roadside ditch in Targa Newfoundland. (Slight navigation error) The guys at the local truck garage straightened it for us using a giant press and a massive rosebud oxyacetelene torch while Michael Oritt and I watched. We were amazed at how much force it took to do the job so be prepared.... Michael S On Feb 5, 2017 3:35 PM, "Wayne" wrote: > Hello, > > I have a 1967 Healey with bent rear axle tubes. While > investigating an axle leak it became apparent something more serious then a > bad seal or gasket was going on. At a minimum I just need the late style > rear end housing, but I might be interested in a complete assembly if > someone has one for sale and does not want to disassemble it. I live in > Western Ct. The plan is to try and straighten mine at a later date and not > have the car apart any longer then necessary. The bare housing is pretty > light and can be shipped. If someone has a complete assembly and not to > far from Ct. I have a truck that I could use to pick it up with. Picture > are nice if you have one for sale. > > Thanks > Wayne > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun Feb 5 12:18:53 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2017 11:18:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems References: <15a0ae2369e-3342-7a78@webprd-m43.mail.aol.com> How can the bolts be upside down? Please describe it better so we can help. On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 12:48 PM, wrote: > In an attempt to tighten up the front end on my BJ8, I've purchased > reconditioned armstrong shocks for the front and back. Starting into the > project, I'm already at my first challenge. On the passenger side all four > bolts are upside down and when I try to loosen the bolts just spin. > > Reading through some articles by Norman Nock, it sounds like these bolts > may have at some point come loose, striped the threads on both the bolts > and shock plate, or striped off the nuts. > > Does anyone have suggestions on how I should proceed? > > *Mal Hickok* > *Richland, MI* > *BJ8 - 1967* > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Sun Feb 5 14:31:39 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2017 16:31:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 References: Hi Mike: I had a similar situation when I bought my now departed BT-7? The prior owner had replaced the stock steering wheel with a very nice Moto-Lita, but was not able to mount the trafficator, since the hub was different. The outcome was the car lacked the stock horn and turn signal in their usual places. Their solution for both was to use what looked like existing holes in the dash. One appeared to be a bolt hole in the center of the dash, up high just under the dash pad. The other was above the package shelf, and appeared to be where a cigarette lighter would have been. As others have mentioned, you could also fabricate a small bracket for under dash to hold the controls. While either approach would work, I believe there are additional considerations: I found driving the car this way distracting, as the reflex is to reach where the controls are usually located. The result was poor for both: - Turn signal operation required me to take my eyes off the road to locate and operate the turn signal indicator. Not the worst thing, but I was VERY relieved when I was later able to have the hub milled and install the trafficator! With the controls back where one would expect them to be, I could concentrate on all the things attendant to turning, like traffic coming up behind me [who may or may not have noticed my petite rear lights], oncoming traffic, pedestrians, traffic in the place I would be turning into, etc. ? - Horn operation also required looking away from the road to home in on the small horn button over on the dash. This was more of a problem, as there was usually something relatively urgent happening when I found the need to blow the horn at someone. In fact, the first couple of times I needed the horn, it was because someone had changed lanes and didn?t see my ?little? car there! In those cases, my reflex was to mash down on the button in the middle of the steering wheel ? which of course did nothing, as it wasn?t wired up! After the initial non-response, I was reminded that I needed to look for the horn button on the dash, and operate it there. I found this a safety issue, and dealt with it right away. I recognize that most of this doesn?t help you locate your turn signal and horn, but I do hope it gives you something to think about as you do so. It looks like the DW steering column does represent a safety improvement for the head-on crash, but it also looks like something designed for racing, and not street use. I looked, but did not find anything on their site that suggests a viable solution ? just a note that you will need to relocate the signals. Maybe the hot-rod crown have something you can use? Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: Friday, February 3, 2017 10:07 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Adding Switches to a BT7 Hey Y'all, About ready to install and wire the dash on the BT7 and looking for ideas on how to add a couple switches without cutting any holes in the dash. I'll be installing a DW safety steering column which has no stator tube so I need homes for the indicators and the horn. Thinking a two position switch and a momentary switch. Thanks and Cheers, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Feb 5 18:38:37 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2017 20:38:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] WTB BJ8 rear end housing References: <2275145b-2920-fde4-7d12-e07d0432ddce@gmail.com> Happy to Ira. This the video of what it is like to run a Targa "stage" in Newfoundland. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2006/12/23/wanna-run-a-targa-stage/ And this is the post about our "off road" excursion that resulted in the bent axle casing. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/12/26/quest-for-gold-targa-newfoundland-2007/ Michael S On Sun, Feb 5, 2017 at 8:28 PM, i erbs wrote: > you should repost the link to the video of the Targa that year. The race > is on my bucket list to watch. Can't imaging what its like to race it. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 8:57 PM, Michael Salter > wrote: > >> Hi Wayne, >> We bent a BN1 housing whilst crossing a roadside ditch in Targa >> Newfoundland. (Slight navigation error) >> The guys at the local truck garage straightened it for us using a giant >> press and a massive rosebud oxyacetelene torch while Michael Oritt and I >> watched. We were amazed at how much force it took to do the job so be >> prepared.... >> Michael S >> >> On Feb 5, 2017 3:35 PM, "Wayne" wrote: >> >>> Hello, >>> >>> I have a 1967 Healey with bent rear axle tubes. While >>> investigating an axle leak it became apparent something more serious then a >>> bad seal or gasket was going on. At a minimum I just need the late style >>> rear end housing, but I might be interested in a complete assembly if >>> someone has one for sale and does not want to disassemble it. I live in >>> Western Ct. The plan is to try and straighten mine at a later date and not >>> have the car apart any longer then necessary. The bare housing is pretty >>> light and can be shipped. If someone has a complete assembly and not to >>> far from Ct. I have a truck that I could use to pick it up with. Picture >>> are nice if you have one for sale. >>> >>> Thanks >>> Wayne >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> >> > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bengaard at 850r.dk Sun Feb 5 23:42:55 2017 From: bengaard at 850r.dk (Niels Bengaard) Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2017 07:42:55 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems References: <15a0ae2369e-3342-7a78@webprd-m43.mail.aol.com> Here is what I did on my BJ8. It?s nuts that?s welded under the plate, not bolts. On my car one nut was loose, got it welded back in place with not too many problems. Also several threads were bad, fixed them with a heli coil set. Today I would probably remove the plate and weld 4 new nuts below. There is not much room to work on with that heli coil set. Watch pictures on the link below: http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Front%20Suspension/index.html# Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] P? vegne af richard mayor Sendt: 5. februar 2017 20:19 Til: healeys Emne: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems How can the bolts be upside down? Please describe it better so we can help. On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 12:48 PM, wrote: In an attempt to tighten up the front end on my BJ8, I've purchased reconditioned armstrong shocks for the front and back. Starting into the project, I'm already at my first challenge. On the passenger side all four bolts are upside down and when I try to loosen the bolts just spin. Reading through some articles by Norman Nock, it sounds like these bolts may have at some point come loose, striped the threads on both the bolts and shock plate, or striped off the nuts. Does anyone have suggestions on how I should proceed? Mal Hickok Richland, MI BJ8 - 1967 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rft2 at aol.com Mon Feb 6 14:30:26 2017 From: rft2 at aol.com (rft2 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2017 16:30:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems Hi Niels, these pictures will be very helpful. My plan is to order a replacement shock plate from Moss, cut off the existing plate and weld in the new plate, then install rebuilt shocks from Worldwide. More than I had planned for, but you pictures will help guide me thru the process. Thanks again. Mal Hickok BJ7 & BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Niels Bengaard To: 'healeys' Sent: Mon, Feb 6, 2017 2:33 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems Here is what I did on my BJ8. It?s nuts that?s welded under the plate, not bolts. On my car one nut was loose, got it welded back in place with not too many problems. Also several threads were bad, fixed them with a heli coil set. Today I would probably remove the plate and weld 4 new nuts below. There is not much room to work on with that heli coil set. Watch pictures on the link below: http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Front%20Suspension/index.html# Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] P? vegne af richard mayor Sendt: 5. februar 2017 20:19 Til: healeys Emne: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems How can the bolts be upside down? Please describe it better so we can help. On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 12:48 PM, wrote: In an attempt to tighten up the front end on my BJ8, I've purchased reconditioned armstrong shocks for the front and back. Starting into the project, I'm already at my first challenge. On the passenger side all four bolts are upside down and when I try to loosen the bolts just spin. Reading through some articles by Norman Nock, it sounds like these bolts may have at some point come loose, striped the threads on both the bolts and shock plate, or striped off the nuts. Does anyone have suggestions on how I should proceed? Mal Hickok Richland, MI BJ8 - 1967 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon Feb 6 15:03:18 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2017 12:03:18 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems References: <15a0ae2369e-3342-7a78@webprd-m43.mail.aol.com> <000001d28044$3f6857e0$be3907a0$@dk> Moss sells new mounting plates, (items 40 and 41 here: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28943#top) but replacing them and getting everything aligned properly is a bit of a job: http://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/tbah01.html Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Sun, Feb 5, 2017 at 8:42 PM, Niels Bengaard wrote: > Here is what I did on my BJ8. It?s nuts that?s welded under the plate, not > bolts. On my car one nut was loose, got it welded back in place with not > too many problems. > > Also several threads were bad, fixed them with a heli coil set. > > Today I would probably remove the plate and weld 4 new nuts below. There > is not much room to work on with that heli coil set. > > Watch pictures on the link below: > > > > http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Front% > 20Suspension/index.html# > > > > *Fra:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *P? vegne af *richard > mayor > *Sendt:* 5. februar 2017 20:19 > *Til:* healeys > *Emne:* Re: [Healeys] BJ8 - shock problems > > > > How can the bolts be upside down? Please describe it better so we can > help. > > > > On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 12:48 PM, wrote: > > In an attempt to tighten up the front end on my BJ8, I've purchased > reconditioned armstrong shocks for the front and back. Starting into the > project, I'm already at my first challenge. On the passenger side all four > bolts are upside down and when I try to loosen the bolts just spin. > > > > Reading through some articles by Norman Nock, it sounds like these bolts > may have at some point come loose, striped the threads on both the bolts > and shock plate, or striped off the nuts. > > > > Does anyone have suggestions on how I should proceed? > > *Mal Hickok* > > *Richland, MI* > > *BJ8 - 1967* > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Mon Feb 6 21:55:48 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 14:55:48 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber G'day all I'm looking for a horizontal float chamber for an SU HD6 carb. They are mostly angled for semi-downdraft applications, but I need one for a horizontal application on a Shorrock supercharger. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Holden V6 MG TC special (Shorrock blown) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Blower7.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3279368 bytes Desc: not available URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Tue Feb 7 11:42:19 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2017 10:42:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?SU_HD6_float_chamber?= Peter, I can say from experience, the float bowl from the HD8 is the same as HD6, as I have horizontal HD8s on my DMD manifold. I bought mine from Joe Curto here in the US. The bowls from a Jag will work, as they're all horizontal. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit >>> Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 14:55:48 +1000 From: "Peter & Veronica" To: Subject: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber G'day all I'm looking for a horizontal float chamber for an SU HD6 carb. They are mostly angled for semi-downdraft applications, but I need one for a horizontal application on a Shorrock supercharger. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Holden V6 MG TC special (Shorrock blown) From steveg at abrazosdata.com Tue Feb 7 11:49:14 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2017 10:49:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?BJ8_Shock_Problems?= Tom's Import Toys sells handy replacement plates for $99.50 the pair: http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1 These should be stronger than the Moss captive nuts. You open up the end of the shock tower, knock out the captive nuts and slide the plate in. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From molony at dodo.com.au Tue Feb 7 15:06:08 2017 From: molony at dodo.com.au (Graeme Molony) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 09:06:08 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber References: Peter If all else fails I think I have a spare pair of horizontal float chambers from a set of Jaguar HD8?s that I had converted happy to part with them for the freight costs but you can probably find units closer to home at a Jaguar Wreckers Graeme J Molony Mt. Martha Vic 3934 From: Peter & Veronica Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 3:55 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber G'day all I'm looking for a horizontal float chamber for an SU HD6 carb. They are mostly angled for semi-downdraft applications, but I need one for a horizontal application on a Shorrock supercharger. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Holden V6 MG TC special (Shorrock blown) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rft2 at aol.com Tue Feb 7 15:15:22 2017 From: rft2 at aol.com (rft2 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 17:15:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems References: <20170207184914.31370.qmail@hoster902.com> Hi Steve, This is an interesting solution. Just called Tom and looked at the link you sent me, ordered a couple of plates and will try this method. Looks like it should work, I'll let you know. Thank you for this idea. Mal Hickok BJ7 & BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Steve B. Gerow To: healeys Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2017 2:57 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems Tom's Import Toys sells handy replacement plates for $99.50 the pair: http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1 These should be stronger than the Moss captive nuts. You open up the end of the shock tower, knock out the captive nuts and slide the plate in. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Feb 7 16:46:06 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 15:46:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Feb 7 20:19:32 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (rrengineer.mike) Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2017 19:19:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Just ordered a case of this stuff. www.classiccarmotoroil.com. $80 delivered for a case of 12 quarts. ?1600 PPM ZDDP.Mike MacLean Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Bob Spidell Date: 2/7/17 3:46 PM (GMT-08:00) To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available.? My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Feb 7 22:51:33 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 21:51:33 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil References: The link takes me to a page where the only choice is to order 15W-40 ?Classic? brand motor oil with 1,600 ppm zinc. Not VR1 racing oil. Found some VR1 sources for $7 buck or so and up to $18/quart. Glad I bought the local supply out months ago. No doubt the availability is due to some EPA or BAAQMD regulation. The latter is the California equivalent to the EPA. John Spaur Sitting a few cases of black gold and loving it! From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rrengineer.mike Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 7:20 PM To: Bob Spidell ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Just ordered a case of this stuff. www.classiccarmotoroil.com . $80 delivered for a case of 12 quarts. 1600 PPM ZDDP. Mike MacLean Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- Date: 2/7/17 3:46 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Feb 8 05:43:32 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 07:43:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Wed Feb 8 06:15:51 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 8:15:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Interesting----Several years ago, an auto parts place here in Pa told me the same story----but---wasn't true. Where he got that info , who knows. I get it in most autoparts place. Have been using it for a long time. tom ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Feb 8 06:55:45 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 05:55:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> Most likely someone found a BT7 vin plate and screwed it to this fright wig of a car. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Feb 8, 2017 5:33 AM, "BJ8Healeys" wrote: > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Wed Feb 8 07:41:17 2017 From: schottc at knology.net (Charlie Schott) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 08:41:17 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil References: <20170208081551.UUOD9.1888.root@pamxwww11-z01> I was told the same thing at AutoZone here in Florida and when I inquired at their headquarters, they told me that they're only selling the 20W 50 weight and it is now located in their motorcycle and ATV section. I got 2 cases from ebay at $6.50 a quart and free shipping. Regards, Charlie Schott -----Original Message----- From: Tom Felts Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:15 AM To: Bob Spidell ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Interesting----Several years ago, an auto parts place here in Pa told me the same story----but---wasn't true. Where he got that info , who knows. I get it in most autoparts place. Have been using it for a long time. tom ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net From al at bighealey.org Wed Feb 8 08:12:01 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:12:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> Steve: While I no longer have my BT-7, the place where the top frame assembly fits on this car looks familiar. On the other hand, it also looks like it has the mounting plate for a later style convertible top. Is this a clue? Also as regards your comment regarding major structural modification: it appears the entire long frame rails have been patched or replaced for most of their lengths, as evidenced by the lack of weld beads, as well as the new beads where they were welded in. is the frame work another clue? Al Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 7:44 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From RCT2BNC at aol.com Wed Feb 8 08:17:59 2017 From: RCT2BNC at aol.com (RCT2BNC at aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:17:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Bob, I order mine from Amazon when my local suppliers' shelves are empty. Price is competitive with the auto-parts stores (if you have Prime and don't pay for shipping). Maybe you could try this route in California. I also use single-weight 40, 50 and 60 VR1 sometimes. Ben Cohen BN1, BN7, BJ8 In a message dated 2/7/2017 6:54:50 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, bspidell at comcast.net writes: Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rct2bnc at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Wed Feb 8 08:32:31 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 15:32:31 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> Steve, Looking at the photos, it appears that the chassis is indeed from a BJ7 or BJ8, at least the "B" posts have the holes for the door latch from a BJ8. However the door hinges are from an earlier model for sure as the later cars had the square plates against the "A" posts from what I recall. The front shroud of a BJ8 is quite different at the windshield so the front shroud of a BT7 would not work for a BJ7/BJ8 from what I know. I think as you indicated they simply used a BT7 Serial number. It certainly appears that they are trying to get rid of some of their parts accumulated over the years and they had enough for one car. Dealers such as that place could not care less as long as there is money for them in the end. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys Sent: February 8, 2017 12:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 | Beverly Hills Car Club www.beverlyhillscarclub.com Classic Car Dealership - European Classic Cars & American Autos. Mercedes, Jaguar, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari, Austin Healey & more. We Buy & Sell Classic Cars. Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Wed Feb 8 08:38:49 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 07:38:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil References: <0753458a-70c6-2d36-0322-0a1df1eec0e4@comcast.net> I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they have it. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com From bengaard at 850r.dk Wed Feb 8 08:50:56 2017 From: bengaard at 850r.dk (Niels Bengaard) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 16:50:56 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems References: <20170207184914.31370.qmail@hoster902.com> <15a1aa543e6-416d-116d6@webprd-m12.mail.aol.com> The only bad thing about replacing is that you lose the original VIN number stamped into the side of the right side plate. It might be difficult to spot, but after removing the paint it was visible on my car. Niels Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] P? vegne af rft2 at aol.com Sendt: 7. februar 2017 23:15 Til: steveg at abrazosdata.com; healeys at autox.team.net Emne: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems Hi Steve, This is an interesting solution. Just called Tom and looked at the link you sent me, ordered a couple of plates and will try this method. Looks like it should work, I'll let you know. Thank you for this idea. Mal Hickok BJ7 & BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Steve B. Gerow To: healeys Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2017 2:57 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems Tom's Import Toys sells handy replacement plates for $99.50 the pair: http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30 &new=1 These should be stronger than the Moss captive nuts. You open up the end of the shock tower, knock out the captive nuts and slide the plate in. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Feb 8 08:54:56 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:54:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> Thanks for your thoughts, Jean. The door hinges are from a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. All of the body parts I see in the photos are BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. Some photos show "spare parts", including what appears to be an armrest and shreds of original red carpet from a BT7, along with a pre-BJ8 speedometer. I am not familiar enough with pre-BJ8 models to say whether the convertible windshield and doors would fit on a BT7, but I think they would not. Perhaps the VIN plate on the firewall belongs to those BT7 "spare parts". I think it more likely that someone had a Phase 1 BJ8 and put a BT7 VIN plate on the firewall than that they tried to make a BJ8 out of a BT7. In that case, why keep the BT7 VIN plate? As far as I know, BHCC just sells the cars they buy on to someone else and don't restore or repair them. I wouldn't think they would be assembling a car from miscellaneous parts. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Jean Caron [mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 10:33 AM To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Steve, Looking at the photos, it appears that the chassis is indeed from a BJ7 or BJ8, at least the "B" posts have the holes for the door latch from a BJ8. However the door hinges are from an earlier model for sure as the later cars had the square plates against the "A" posts from what I recall. The front shroud of a BJ8 is quite different at the windshield so the front shroud of a BT7 would not work for a BJ7/BJ8 from what I know. I think as you indicated they simply used a BT7 Serial number. It certainly appears that they are trying to get rid of some of their parts accumulated over the years and they had enough for one car. Dealers such as that place could not care less as long as there is money for them in the end. Jean _____ From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys Sent: February 8, 2017 12:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 | Beverly Hills Car Club www.beverlyhillscarclub.com Classic Car Dealership - European Classic Cars & American Autos. Mercedes, Jaguar, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari, Austin Healey & more. We Buy & Sell Classic Cars. Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13907 - Release Date: 02/07/17 No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13908 - Release Date: 02/07/17 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Wed Feb 8 10:22:52 2017 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 09:22:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> <01bd01d2821d$b3c91d10$1b5b5730$@bighealey.org> This car looks like a pile of parts that got put together to make up a car. The rear shroud is BJ7, Phase 1 BJ8 Carbs are BJ7 Doors are BJ8 Dash is a BJ8 Front shroud BJ7 , Phase 1 BJ8 Vent windows are BJ8 Frame cut out for the exhaust is BJ8 late Also notice that there are no front springs or plates, the rear end is not attached., the frame is CRAP David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Al Fuller Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:12 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Steve: While I no longer have my BT-7, the place where the top frame assembly fits on this car looks familiar? On the other hand, it also looks like it has the mounting plate for a later style convertible top. Is this a clue? Also as regards your comment regarding major structural modification: it appears the entire long frame rails have been patched or replaced for most of their lengths, as evidenced by the lack of weld beads, as well as the new beads where they were welded in. is the frame work another clue? Al Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 7:44 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Wed Feb 8 11:08:21 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 08:08:21 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> Steve, To your original question, I think it would be possible, but you'd also have to change the rear shroud as well to get the chrome door top finisher to match the small chrome finisher on the shroud. Much easier to jack up the VIN of the BT7 and drive a BJ8 under it. BTW, BHCC has a search function that says "Find the car of your dreams" Obviously, it was broken for this one. Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 2:43 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Feb 8 12:44:26 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 14:44:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> Hi Steve, To answer your question.... This issue was raised in conjunction with the '63 Sebring cars which have convertible windshields and sidescreens. Such a modification would require fairly major structural modifications. The upper panel of the front bulkhead would need to be replaced to accommodate the longer rear part of the convertible shroud. The convertible front shroud would be required to provide the correct profile of "gutter" for the curved windshield. The front door posts would have to be changed to accommodate the convertible doors which have to swing away from the windshield to prevent interference when opened and closed. The rear door posts have to be replaced with the wider ones to accommodate the thicker doors. Of course all sorts of "fudging " could be done but there would have to be compromises. Michael S BN1 #174 On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 7:43 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -- *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drmasucci at comcast.net Wed Feb 8 13:21:41 2017 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 15:21:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil References: <0753458a-70c6-2d36-0322-0a1df1eec0e4@comcast.net> <032a01d28221$7212c4d0$56384e70$@roadrunner.com> Are you guys referring to the full synthetic, or the conventional version of this oil! Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 8, 2017, at 10:38 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they > have it. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as > do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a > while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says > it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. > > AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drmasucci at comcast.net > From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Feb 8 13:30:35 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 20:30:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil References: <0753458a-70c6-2d36-0322-0a1df1eec0e4@comcast.net> <032a01d28221$7212c4d0$56384e70$@roadrunner.com> <96AD7407-62EB-4FB6-BD6B-93EBF1CC7673@comcast.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Feb 8 16:29:24 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 15:29:24 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil References: <0753458a-70c6-2d36-0322-0a1df1eec0e4@comcast.net> <032a01d28221$7212c4d0$56384e70$@roadrunner.com> <96AD7407-62EB-4FB6-BD6B-93EBF1CC7673@comcast.net> Well, my local parts house--the same one that pulled it off the shelf a year or so ago--now has its back on the shelf for ~$7/qt. It appears this was a bureaucratic overreaction/SNAFU to some regulations that may or may not have had an effect, or maybe Valvoline changed the formulation to comply. bs On 2/8/2017 12:21 PM, David Masucci wrote: > Are you guys referring to the full synthetic, or the conventional version of this oil! > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Feb 8, 2017, at 10:38 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: >> >> I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they >> have it. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> Spidell >> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil >> >> Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it >> supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as >> do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a >> while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says >> it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. >> >> AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' >> >> Bob >> >> > From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Wed Feb 8 16:31:53 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 10:31:53 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> G?day The three ?63 Sebring cars were all BJ7s. The spare car (57 FAC) was sold to Austin Canada afterwards and was raced in that country. It took quite some time to work out its history and that wasn?t helped by Austin Canada in period using photos of an earlier BN7 Mk2 in its advertising campaign promoting the success of 57 FAC. BTW 57 FAC is now in Australia. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Thursday, 9 February 2017 6:44 AM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Hi Steve, To answer your question.... This issue was raised in conjunction with the '63 Sebring cars which have convertible windshields and sidescreens. Such a modification would require fairly major structural modifications. The upper panel of the front bulkhead would need to be replaced to accommodate the longer rear part of the convertible shroud. The convertible front shroud would be required to provide the correct profile of "gutter" for the curved windshield. The front door posts would have to be changed to accommodate the convertible doors which have to swing away from the windshield to prevent interference when opened and closed. The rear door posts have to be replaced with the wider ones to accommodate the thicker doors. Of course all sorts of "fudging " could be done but there would have to be compromises. Michael S BN1 #174 On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 7:43 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmcharris at hotmail.com Wed Feb 8 19:27:27 2017 From: gmcharris at hotmail.com (george mcharris) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 02:27:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Valvolene Oil References: I have been using VR1 20/50 with ZDDP for quite a while. Buy on line at ruralking.com at about five bucks...sometimes cheaper. Summit Racing has many other weights up to 50 at about eight bucks. George McHarris ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 11:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 45 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: SU HD6 float chamber (Graeme Molony) 2. Re: BJ8 Shock Problems (rft2 at aol.com) 3. Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Bob Spidell) 4. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (rrengineer.mike) 5. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (John Spaur) 6. BT7 --> BJ8? (BJ8Healeys) 7. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Tom Felts) 8. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (i erbs) 9. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Charlie Schott) 10. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (Al Fuller) 11. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (RCT2BNC at aol.com) 12. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (Jean Caron) 13. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Bruce Steele) 14. Re: BJ8 Shock Problems (Niels Bengaard) 15. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (BJ8Healeys) 16. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (David Nock) 17. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (HealeyRick) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 09:06:08 +1100 From: "Graeme Molony" To: "Peter & Veronica" , Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber Peter If all else fails I think I have a spare pair of horizontal float chambers from a set of Jaguar HD8?s that I had converted happy to part with them for the freight costs but you can probably find units closer to home at a Jaguar Wreckers Graeme J Molony Mt. Martha Vic 3934 From: Peter & Veronica Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 3:55 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber G'day all I'm looking for a horizontal float chamber for an SU HD6 carb. They are mostly angled for semi-downdraft applications, but I need one for a horizontal application on a Shorrock supercharger. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Holden V6 MG TC special (Shorrock blown) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Mail Archives - Team.Net www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 17:15:22 -0500 From: rft2 at aol.com To: steveg at abrazosdata.com, healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems Hi Steve, This is an interesting solution. Just called Tom and looked at the link you sent me, ordered a couple of plates and will try this method. Looks like it should work, I'll let you know. Thank you for this idea. Mal Hickok BJ7 & BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Steve B. Gerow To: healeys Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2017 2:57 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems Tom's Import Toys sells handy replacement plates for $99.50 the pair: http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1 These should be stronger than the Moss captive nuts. You open up the end of the shock tower, knock out the captive nuts and slide the plate in. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Mail Archives - Team.Net www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 15:46:06 -0800 From: Bob Spidell To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2017 19:19:32 -0800 From: "rrengineer.mike" To: Bob Spidell , Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Just ordered a case of this stuff. www.classiccarmotoroil.com. $80 delivered for a case of 12 quarts. ?1600 PPM ZDDP.Mike MacLean Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Bob Spidell Date: 2/7/17 3:46 PM (GMT-08:00) To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available.? My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 21:51:33 -0800 From: "John Spaur" To: "'rrengineer.mike'" , "'Bob Spidell'" , "'Healeys'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil The link takes me to a page where the only choice is to order 15W-40 ?Classic? brand motor oil with 1,600 ppm zinc. Not VR1 racing oil. Found some VR1 sources for $7 buck or so and up to $18/quart. Glad I bought the local supply out months ago. No doubt the availability is due to some EPA or BAAQMD regulation. The latter is the California equivalent to the EPA. John Spaur Sitting a few cases of black gold and loving it! From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rrengineer.mike Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 7:20 PM To: Bob Spidell ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Just ordered a case of this stuff. www.classiccarmotoroil.com . $80 delivered for a case of 12 quarts. 1600 PPM ZDDP. Mike MacLean Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- Date: 2/7/17 3:46 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 07:43:32 -0500 From: "BJ8Healeys" To: Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 8:15:51 -0500 From: Tom Felts To: Bob Spidell , Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Interesting----Several years ago, an auto parts place here in Pa told me the same story----but---wasn't true. Where he got that info , who knows. I get it in most autoparts place. Have been using it for a long time. tom ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 05:55:45 -0800 From: i erbs To: BJ8 Healeys Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Message-ID: Most likely someone found a BT7 vin plate and screwed it to this fright wig of a car. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Feb 8, 2017 5:33 AM, "BJ8Healeys" wrote: > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 08:41:17 -0600 From: "Charlie Schott" To: "Tom Felts" , "Bob Spidell" , "Healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil reply-type=original I was told the same thing at AutoZone here in Florida and when I inquired at their headquarters, they told me that they're only selling the 20W 50 weight and it is now located in their motorcycle and ATV section. I got 2 cases from ebay at $6.50 a quart and free shipping. Regards, Charlie Schott -----Original Message----- From: Tom Felts Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:15 AM To: Bob Spidell ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Interesting----Several years ago, an auto parts place here in Pa told me the same story----but---wasn't true. Where he got that info , who knows. I get it in most autoparts place. Have been using it for a long time. tom ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:12:01 -0500 From: "Al Fuller" To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Steve: While I no longer have my BT-7, the place where the top frame assembly fits on this car looks familiar. On the other hand, it also looks like it has the mounting plate for a later style convertible top. Is this a clue? Also as regards your comment regarding major structural modification: it appears the entire long frame rails have been patched or replaced for most of their lengths, as evidenced by the lack of weld beads, as well as the new beads where they were welded in. is the frame work another clue? Al Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 7:44 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:17:59 -0500 From: RCT2BNC at aol.com To: bspidell at comcast.net, healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Bob, I order mine from Amazon when my local suppliers' shelves are empty. Price is competitive with the auto-parts stores (if you have Prime and don't pay for shipping). Maybe you could try this route in California. I also use single-weight 40, 50 and 60 VR1 sometimes. Ben Cohen BN1, BN7, BJ8 In a message dated 2/7/2017 6:54:50 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, bspidell at comcast.net writes: Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rct2bnc at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 15:32:31 +0000 From: Jean Caron To: BJ8Healeys , "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Message-ID: Steve, Looking at the photos, it appears that the chassis is indeed from a BJ7 or BJ8, at least the "B" posts have the holes for the door latch from a BJ8. However the door hinges are from an earlier model for sure as the later cars had the square plates against the "A" posts from what I recall. The front shroud of a BJ8 is quite different at the windshield so the front shroud of a BT7 would not work for a BJ7/BJ8 from what I know. I think as you indicated they simply used a BT7 Serial number. It certainly appears that they are trying to get rid of some of their parts accumulated over the years and they had enough for one car. Dealers such as that place could not care less as long as there is money for them in the end. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys Sent: February 8, 2017 12:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 | Beverly Hills Car Club www.beverlyhillscarclub.com Classic Car Dealership - European Classic Cars & American Autos. Mercedes, Jaguar, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari, Austin Healey & more. We Buy & Sell Classic Cars. Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 07:38:49 -0800 From: "Bruce Steele" To: "'Bob Spidell'" , "'Healeys'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they have it. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' Bob _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 16:50:56 +0100 From: "Niels Bengaard" To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems The only bad thing about replacing is that you lose the original VIN number stamped into the side of the right side plate. It might be difficult to spot, but after removing the paint it was visible on my car. Niels Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] P? vegne af rft2 at aol.com Sendt: 7. februar 2017 23:15 Til: steveg at abrazosdata.com; healeys at autox.team.net Emne: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems Hi Steve, This is an interesting solution. Just called Tom and looked at the link you sent me, ordered a couple of plates and will try this method. Looks like it should work, I'll let you know. Thank you for this idea. Mal Hickok BJ7 & BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Steve B. Gerow To: healeys Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2017 2:57 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems Tom's Import Toys sells handy replacement plates for $99.50 the pair: http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30 &new=1 These should be stronger than the Moss captive nuts. You open up the end of the shock tower, knock out the captive nuts and slide the plate in. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:54:56 -0500 From: "BJ8Healeys" To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Thanks for your thoughts, Jean. The door hinges are from a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. All of the body parts I see in the photos are BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. Some photos show "spare parts", including what appears to be an armrest and shreds of original red carpet from a BT7, along with a pre-BJ8 speedometer. I am not familiar enough with pre-BJ8 models to say whether the convertible windshield and doors would fit on a BT7, but I think they would not. Perhaps the VIN plate on the firewall belongs to those BT7 "spare parts". I think it more likely that someone had a Phase 1 BJ8 and put a BT7 VIN plate on the firewall than that they tried to make a BJ8 out of a BT7. In that case, why keep the BT7 VIN plate? As far as I know, BHCC just sells the cars they buy on to someone else and don't restore or repair them. I wouldn't think they would be assembling a car from miscellaneous parts. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Jean Caron [mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 10:33 AM To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Steve, Looking at the photos, it appears that the chassis is indeed from a BJ7 or BJ8, at least the "B" posts have the holes for the door latch from a BJ8. However the door hinges are from an earlier model for sure as the later cars had the square plates against the "A" posts from what I recall. The front shroud of a BJ8 is quite different at the windshield so the front shroud of a BT7 would not work for a BJ7/BJ8 from what I know. I think as you indicated they simply used a BT7 Serial number. It certainly appears that they are trying to get rid of some of their parts accumulated over the years and they had enough for one car. Dealers such as that place could not care less as long as there is money for them in the end. Jean _____ From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys Sent: February 8, 2017 12:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 | Beverly Hills Car Club www.beverlyhillscarclub.com Classic Car Dealership - European Classic Cars & American Autos. Mercedes, Jaguar, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari, Austin Healey & more. We Buy & Sell Classic Cars. Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13907 - Release Date: 02/07/17 No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13908 - Release Date: 02/07/17 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 09:22:52 -0800 From: "David Nock" To: "Al Fuller" , Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? This car looks like a pile of parts that got put together to make up a car. The rear shroud is BJ7, Phase 1 BJ8 Carbs are BJ7 Doors are BJ8 Dash is a BJ8 Front shroud BJ7 , Phase 1 BJ8 Vent windows are BJ8 Frame cut out for the exhaust is BJ8 late Also notice that there are no front springs or plates, the rear end is not attached., the frame is CRAP David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Al Fuller Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:12 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Steve: While I no longer have my BT-7, the place where the top frame assembly fits on this car looks familiar? On the other hand, it also looks like it has the mounting plate for a later style convertible top. Is this a clue? Also as regards your comment regarding major structural modification: it appears the entire long frame rails have been patched or replaced for most of their lengths, as evidenced by the lack of weld beads, as well as the new beads where they were welded in. is the frame work another clue? Al Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 7:44 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it physically possible without major structural modification to create a BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly onto a BT7 body? http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that isn't the question. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 08:08:21 -1000 From: HealeyRick To: BJ8Healeys Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? Message-ID: Steve, To your original question, I think it would be possible, but you'd also have to change the rear shroud as well to get the chrome door top finisher to match the small chrome finisher on the shroud. Much easier to jack up the VIN of the BT7 and drive a BJ8 under it. BTW, BHCC has a search function that says "Find the car of your dreams" Obviously, it was broken for this one. Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 2:43 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 45 *************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Feb 8 20:29:04 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 11:29:04 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? References: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> I suspect the car wast put together from a couple of wreckers, probably a frame from a BT7 matched with good body parts from a BJ7/early BJ8 - hence the mismatch on the door hinges. The frame rail bottoms looks like hell, were plates simply welded over them? On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 8:43 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Feb 8 20:59:53 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 19:59:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Car value. Are they idiots? I received a $1,000 offer to purchase and scrape my fully restored 1962 BT7. Review the attachment. John Spaur -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BAAQMD.PDF Type: application/pdf Size: 87474 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Feb 9 01:03:04 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 08:03:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Car value. Are they idiots? References: <000001d28288$f8c52b00$ea4f8100$@sbcglobal.net> To be John, the letter says if your car is a classic or otherwise valuable to you to disregard the letter.Mike MacLean On Wednesday, February 8, 2017 11:19 PM, John Spaur wrote: I received a $1,000 offer to purchase and scrape my fully restored 1962 BT7. Review the attachment. ?John Spaur _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Thu Feb 9 01:19:43 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 08:19:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Car value. Are they idiots? References: <000001d28288$f8c52b00$ea4f8100$@sbcglobal.net> Be fair John... they do ask you to ignor the letter if your car is a classic or of special value to you!!! Many people with a clapped out Chevette? would probably be happy to get a grand for it. Michael S BN1 #174 On Thu, Feb 9, 2017 at 8:00 PM +1300, "John Spaur" wrote: I received a $1,000 offer to purchase and scrape my fully restored 1962 BT7. Review the attachment. ? John Spaur -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Feb 9 02:23:39 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 17:23:39 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Car value. Are they idiots? References: <000001d28288$f8c52b00$ea4f8100$@sbcglobal.net> <312365556.1066861.1486627384561@mail.yahoo.com> Actually, the sheer lunacy of it is if you study CO2 impacts, the CO2 impact of buying a new car far outweighs driving your old polluter, as new cars require a huge amount of energy to produce. So it's better to keep driving an old beater if you really care about global warming. On Thu, Feb 9, 2017 at 4:03 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > To be John, the letter says if your car is a classic or otherwise valuable > to you to disregard the letter. > Mike MacLean > > > On Wednesday, February 8, 2017 11:19 PM, John Spaur < > jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > > I received a $1,000 offer to purchase and scrape my fully restored 1962 > BT7. Review the attachment. > > John Spaur > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Feb 9 08:42:27 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 07:42:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Car value. Are they idiots? References: <000001d28288$f8c52b00$ea4f8100$@sbcglobal.net> I've seen your car, John; I'll give you $1,100. Just kidding. John's car is beautiful. Bob ps. I got that letter, too. On 2/8/2017 7:59 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > I received a $1,000 offer to purchase and scrape my fully restored > 1962 BT7. Review the attachment. > > John Spaur > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Thu Feb 9 08:55:00 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 10:55:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Or maybe you are fabricating a wholly unsubstantiated scenario to fit with your own personal beliefs & prejudices? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Cc: Healeys Sent: Thu, Feb 9, 2017 9:33 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Well, my local parts house--the same one that pulled it off the shelf a year or so ago--now has its back on the shelf for ~$7/qt. It appears this was a bureaucratic overreaction/SNAFU to some regulations that may or may not have had an effect, or maybe Valvoline changed the formulation to comply. bs On 2/8/2017 12:21 PM, David Masucci wrote: > Are you guys referring to the full synthetic, or the conventional version of this oil! > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Feb 8, 2017, at 10:38 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: >> >> I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they >> have it. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> Spidell >> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil >> >> Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it >> supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as >> do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a >> while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says >> it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. >> >> AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' >> >> Bob >> >> > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Feb 9 09:47:17 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 08:47:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil References: <15a2395bc2e-66aa-20a79@webstg-m01.mail.aol.com> That's a little harsh, Gary. After my initial post, I did some googling and found some anecdotal 'evidence;' here's just one example (from our LBC brethren): http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,3222905 You can 'research' yourself by googling 'valvoline vr1 20w-50 banned in california;' it appears others have thought the same. I have no prefabricated agenda; I'm doing an expensive engine rebuild for my BJ8 and want the best oil possible--for a reasonable price--for the engine when I reinstall it (my cam lobes and tappet faces were seriously worn). I'd been buying VR1 for a while when the local parts house told me 'we pulled it off the shelves.' My engine builder--when asked if VR1 was a good oil for older, flat tappet engines said 'Yeah, but you can't get it in California.' So, I got curious (and, in the meantime, bought 3 cases online). Banning VR1 made no sense, since other brands--Castrol, for one--still claim 'adequate' ZDDP for older, flat tappet engines, and the consensus seemed to be that many 20W-50 oils still had sufficient ZDDP since they weren't likely to be used in newer cars with catalytic converters, but that's the 'reading' I was getting from several sources. I had resigned myself to buying online and, with a full case order you can get free shipping from Amazon at a better price than the parts house anyway. I will confess to being a bit predisposed to assume the 'banned' scenario; several products which I've found to be effective--3M's adhesive remover, for one--appear* to be NLA in CA, and I think the best upholstery adhesive I know of--Weldwood--hasn't been seen on shelves around here for a while (I buy qt bottles from my upholsterer, who buys 5-gal cans from, well, I don't want to know where). I'll also confess to a poor choice of wording in my previous post--I was speculating and should have made that clear for the nuance-challenged. Full Disclosure: I'm a native Californian--fourth-generation, to be exact--and have mixed feelings about some of my state's political actions (but have defended some of them on several occasions). I can attest to a dramatic improvement in our air quality over my lifetime, and we have a ways to go. I also have a background in chemistry--both educational and in the workforce--so I understand the dangers of some compounds--halogenated hydrocarbons in particular--being let loose in the environment, so I stride both sides of the environmental arguments. It should be noted CA does not require vehicle inspections--a serious tax and hassle, IMO--and the state did us old car owners a solid when it eliminated the smog check for pre-1968 cars. I still don't have an answer as to why VR1 was pulled from store shelves, but has now reappeared. Either there was a misunderstanding--possibly* with the SAE rating system--or, possibly* Valvoline changed the formulation to comply*. Bob * NOTE: PURE SPECULATION ON MY PART. On 2/9/2017 7:55 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > Or maybe you are fabricating a wholly unsubstantiated scenario to fit > with your own personal beliefs & prejudices? > Gary Hodson > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > Cc: Healeys > Sent: Thu, Feb 9, 2017 9:33 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > > Well, my local parts house--the same one that pulled it off the shelf a > year or so ago--now has its back on the shelf for ~$7/qt. > > It appears this was a bureaucratic overreaction/SNAFU to some > regulations that may or may not have had an effect, or maybe Valvoline > changed the formulation to comply. > > bs > > > On 2/8/2017 12:21 PM, David Masucci wrote: > > Are you guys referring to the full synthetic, or the conventional > version of this oil! > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > >> On Feb 8, 2017, at 10:38 AM, Bruce Steele > >> > >> I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, > and they > >> have it. > >> > >> Bruce Steele > >> Brea, CA > >> 1960 BN7 > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > >> Spidell > >> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM > >> Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > >> > >> Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > >> supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the > 20W-50, as > >> do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house > told me a > >> while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine > builder says > >> it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims > high ZDDP. > >> > >> AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > >> > >> Bob > >> > >> > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Feb 9 10:55:18 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 12:55:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Mercy--it was just a comment--------------non-threatening at that. We all speculate ---- warthodson at aol.com wrote: ============= Or maybe you are fabricating a wholly unsubstantiated scenario to fit with your own personal beliefs & prejudices? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Cc: Healeys Sent: Thu, Feb 9, 2017 9:33 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Well, my local parts house--the same one that pulled it off the shelf a year or so ago--now has its back on the shelf for ~$7/qt. It appears this was a bureaucratic overreaction/SNAFU to some regulations that may or may not have had an effect, or maybe Valvoline changed the formulation to comply. bs On 2/8/2017 12:21 PM, David Masucci wrote: > Are you guys referring to the full synthetic, or the conventional version of this oil! > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Feb 8, 2017, at 10:38 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: >> >> I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they >> have it. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> Spidell >> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil >> >> Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it >> supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as >> do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a >> while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says >> it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. >> >> AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' >> >> Bob >> >> > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From rft2 at aol.com Thu Feb 9 13:01:40 2017 From: rft2 at aol.com (rft2 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 15:01:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Just bought some here in Michigan from O'Reilly's Auto Parts, on sale for $4.99/quart or $24.95/5qt jug. Mal Hickok BJ7 & BJ8 Richland, MI -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: warthodson Cc: healeys Sent: Thu, Feb 9, 2017 1:39 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil That's a little harsh, Gary. After my initial post, I did some googling and found some anecdotal 'evidence;' here's just one example (from our LBC brethren): http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,3222905 You can 'research' yourself by googling 'valvoline vr1 20w-50 banned in california;' it appears others have thought the same. I have no prefabricated agenda; I'm doing an expensive engine rebuild for my BJ8 and want the best oil possible--for a reasonable price--for the engine when I reinstall it (my cam lobes and tappet faces were seriously worn). I'd been buying VR1 for a while when the local parts house told me 'we pulled it off the shelves.' My engine builder--when asked if VR1 was a good oil for older, flat tappet engines said 'Yeah, but you can't get it in California.' So, I got curious (and, in the meantime, bought 3 cases online). Banning VR1 made no sense, since other brands--Castrol, for one--still claim 'adequate' ZDDP for older, flat tappet engines, and the consensus seemed to be that many 20W-50 oils still had sufficient ZDDP since they weren't likely to be used in newer cars with catalytic converters, but that's the 'reading' I was getting from several sources. I had resigned myself to buying online and, with a full case order you can get free shipping from Amazon at a better price than the parts house anyway. I will confess to being a bit predisposed to assume the 'banned' scenario; several products which I've found to be effective--3M's adhesive remover, for one--appear* to be NLA in CA, and I think the best upholstery adhesive I know of--Weldwood--hasn't been seen on shelves around here for a while (I buy qt bottles from my upholsterer, who buys 5-gal cans from, well, I don't want to know where). I'll also confess to a poor choice of wording in my previous post--I was speculating and should have made that clear for the nuance-challenged. Full Disclosure: I'm a native Californian--fourth-generation, to be exact--and have mixed feelings about some of my state's political actions (but have defended some of them on several occasions). I can attest to a dramatic improvement in our air quality over my lifetime, and we have a ways to go. I also have a background in chemistry--both educational and in the workforce--so I understand the dangers of some compounds--halogenated hydrocarbons in particular--being let loose in the environment, so I stride both sides of the environmental arguments. It should be noted CA does not require vehicle inspections--a serious tax and hassle, IMO--and the state did us old car owners a solid when it eliminated the smog check for pre-1968 cars. I still don't have an answer as to why VR1 was pulled from store shelves, but has now reappeared. Either there was a misunderstanding--possibly* with the SAE rating system--or, possibly* Valvoline changed the formulation to comply*. Bob * NOTE: PURE SPECULATION ON MY PART. On 2/9/2017 7:55 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: Or maybe you are fabricating a wholly unsubstantiated scenario to fit with your own personal beliefs & prejudices? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Cc: Healeys Sent: Thu, Feb 9, 2017 9:33 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Well, my local parts house--the same one that pulled it off the shelf a year or so ago--now has its back on the shelf for ~$7/qt. It appears this was a bureaucratic overreaction/SNAFU to some regulations that may or may not have had an effect, or maybe Valvoline changed the formulation to comply. bs On 2/8/2017 12:21 PM, David Masucci wrote: > Are you guys referring to the full synthetic, or the conventional version of this oil! > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Feb 8, 2017, at 10:38 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: >> >> I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they >> have it. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> Spidell >> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil >> >> Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it >> supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as >> do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a >> while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says >> it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high ZDDP. >> >> AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' >> >> Bob >> >> > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kentmclean at comcast.net Fri Feb 10 08:05:09 2017 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 10:05:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 1948 Healey Hobbs Woodie Estate On Bring-a-Trailer. I?m so glad Donald hired Gerry Coker to pen the 100. http://bringatrailer.com/2017/02/09/dobbs-and-dibbens-1948-austin-healey-woodie/ - Kent McLean ?56 100 BN2 From michael.oritt at gmail.com Fri Feb 10 10:19:53 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 12:19:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carb shafts All-- Some time back I posted about possibly needing to ream out the carb bodies and put in oversized shafts. Due to the fine weather here in the mid-Atlantic I did not get around to removing the carburetors until yesterday when snow was forecast--and naturally did not happen. In any case I disassembled everything this morning and--as many of you predicted--the wear appears to be confined solely to the sections of the shafts that pass through the carb bodies. There is a noticeable difference in feel when I partially withdraw the shafts so they bear on the non-bearing ends and so I am sure that standard shafts will do the trick. Thanks as always for the good advice. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Fri Feb 10 10:47:00 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 17:47:00 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener Hi, I'd saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don't recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I'd made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it. So, my nephew's fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. First off, I agree that there's no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank. Having said that, I read the advice that I'd stored so carefully and began to wonder if I'd understood it correctly. Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn't the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge's terminal T? And wouldn't those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? Shouldn't the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it? Maybe I'm over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Fuel gauge needle vibration damper PH version.docx Type: application/vnd.openxmlformats-officedocument.wordprocessingml.document Size: 36193 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fgspringer at gmail.com Fri Feb 10 10:47:52 2017 From: fgspringer at gmail.com (FGary Springer) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 11:47:52 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Valvolene Oil References: Just to chime in, I purchase VR1 20W-50W for $4.59/ QT at local Farm & Fleets. Same price for 50W. Gary Springer BT7 Tri-Carb. On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 8:27 PM, george mcharris wrote: > I have been using VR1 20/50 with ZDDP for quite a while. Buy on line at > ruralking.com at about five bucks...sometimes cheaper. > > Summit Racing has many other weights up to 50 at about eight bucks. > > George McHarris > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > healeys-request at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Wednesday, February 8, 2017 11:00 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 45 > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net > > autox.team.net > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys > Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send > email ... > > > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: SU HD6 float chamber (Graeme Molony) > 2. Re: BJ8 Shock Problems (rft2 at aol.com) > 3. Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Bob Spidell) > 4. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (rrengineer.mike) > 5. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (John Spaur) > 6. BT7 --> BJ8? (BJ8Healeys) > 7. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Tom Felts) > 8. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (i erbs) > 9. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Charlie Schott) > 10. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (Al Fuller) > 11. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (RCT2BNC at aol.com) > 12. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (Jean Caron) > 13. Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (Bruce Steele) > 14. Re: BJ8 Shock Problems (Niels Bengaard) > 15. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (BJ8Healeys) > 16. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (David Nock) > 17. Re: BT7 --> BJ8? (HealeyRick) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 09:06:08 +1100 > From: "Graeme Molony" > To: "Peter & Veronica" , > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber > Message-ID: <00318CF366A44DBD9B3D7C9237D9D8FC at msiallinone> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Peter > > If all else fails I think I have a spare pair of horizontal float chambers > from a set of Jaguar HD8?s that I had converted > happy to part with them for the freight costs but you can probably find > units closer to home at a Jaguar Wreckers > > Graeme J Molony > > Mt. Martha > Vic 3934 > > > > From: Peter & Veronica > Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 3:55 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] SU HD6 float chamber > > G'day all > > I'm looking for a horizontal float chamber for an SU HD6 carb. They are > mostly angled for semi-downdraft applications, but I need one for a > horizontal application on a Shorrock supercharger. > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > > BN1 Holden V6 > MG TC special (Shorrock blown) > > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > -------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > www.team.net > www.team.net > The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time > volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network > connection, name ... > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Mail Archives - Team.Net > www.team.net > Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest > updated. > > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net > > autox.team.net > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys > Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send > email ... > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/molony at dodo.com.au > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/d0b96580/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 17:15:22 -0500 > From: rft2 at aol.com > To: steveg at abrazosdata.com, healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems > Message-ID: <15a1aa543e6-416d-116d6 at webprd-m12.mail.aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi Steve, > > > This is an interesting solution. Just called Tom and looked at the link > you sent me, ordered a couple of plates and will try this method. Looks > like it should work, I'll let you know. > > > Thank you for this idea. > > > Mal Hickok > BJ7 & BJ8 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve B. Gerow > To: healeys > Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2017 2:57 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems > > Tom's Import Toys sells handy replacement plates for $99.50 the pair: > > http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1 > > These should be stronger than the Moss captive nuts. You open up the end > of the shock tower, knock out the captive nuts and slide the plate in. > > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > www.team.net > www.team.net > The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time > volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network > connection, name ... > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Mail Archives - Team.Net > www.team.net > Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest > updated. > > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net > > autox.team.net > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys > Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send > email ... > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rft2 at aol.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170207/951c8928/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 15:46:06 -0800 > From: Bob Spidell > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > Message-ID: <0753458a-70c6-2d36-0322-0a1df1eec0e4 at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, > as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told > me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine > builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which > claims high ZDDP. > > AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > > Bob > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2017 19:19:32 -0800 > From: "rrengineer.mike" > To: Bob Spidell , Healeys > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > Just ordered a case of this stuff. www.classiccarmotoroil.com. $80 > delivered for a case of 12 quarts. ?1600 PPM ZDDP.Mike MacLean > > > Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone > > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Bob Spidell > Date: 2/7/17 3:46 PM (GMT-08:00) > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, > as do other 20W-50s that are still available.? My local parts house told > me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine > builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which > claims high ZDDP. > > AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170207/8d3fd11f/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2017 21:51:33 -0800 > From: "John Spaur" > To: "'rrengineer.mike'" , "'Bob Spidell'" > , "'Healeys'" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > Message-ID: <000601d281cf$698e6a00$3cab3e00$@sbcglobal.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > The link takes me to a page where the only choice is to order 15W-40 > ?Classic? brand motor oil with 1,600 ppm zinc. Not VR1 racing oil. > > > > Found some VR1 sources for $7 buck or so and up to $18/quart. Glad I > bought the local supply out months ago. No doubt the availability is due to > some EPA or BAAQMD regulation. The latter is the California equivalent to > the EPA. > > > > John Spaur > > Sitting a few cases of black gold and loving it! > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of rrengineer.mike > Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 7:20 PM > To: Bob Spidell ; Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > > > > Just ordered a case of this stuff. www.classiccarmotoroil.com classiccarmotoroil.com> . $80 delivered for a case of 12 quarts. 1600 > PPM ZDDP. > > Mike MacLean > > > > Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone > > > -------- Original message -------- > > > > Date: 2/7/17 3:46 PM (GMT-08:00) > > > > Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170207/6d64e457/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 07:43:32 -0500 > From: "BJ8Healeys" > To: > Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > Message-ID: <001f01d28208$f5651f40$e02f5dc0$@rr.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't > the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/f6e9101e/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 8:15:51 -0500 > From: Tom Felts > To: Bob Spidell , Healeys > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > Message-ID: <20170208081551.UUOD9.1888.root at pamxwww11-z01> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Interesting----Several years ago, an auto parts place here in Pa told me > the same story----but---wasn't true. Where he got that info , who knows. > I get it in most autoparts place. Have been using it for a long time. > tom > ---- Bob Spidell wrote: > > ============= > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, > as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told > me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine > builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which > claims high ZDDP. > > AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 05:55:45 -0800 > From: i erbs > To: BJ8 Healeys > Cc: Ahealey help > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > Message-ID: > gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Most likely someone found a BT7 vin plate and screwed it to this fright wig > of a car. > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > Portland,OR > > On Feb 8, 2017 5:33 AM, "BJ8Healeys" wrote: > > > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used > directly > > onto a BT7 body? > > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > > isn't the question. > > > > > > > > Steve Byers > > > > HBJ8L/36666 > > > > BJ8 Registry > > > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/4e98a3de/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 08:41:17 -0600 > From: "Charlie Schott" > To: "Tom Felts" , "Bob Spidell" > , "Healeys" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > I was told the same thing at AutoZone here in Florida and when I inquired > at > their headquarters, they told me that they're only selling the 20W 50 > weight > and it is now located in their motorcycle and ATV section. I got 2 cases > from ebay at $6.50 a quart and free shipping. > > Regards, > > Charlie Schott > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tom Felts > Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:15 AM > To: Bob Spidell ; Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > > Interesting----Several years ago, an auto parts place here in Pa told me > the > same story----but---wasn't true. Where he got that info , who knows. I > get > it in most autoparts place. Have been using it for a long time. > tom > ---- Bob Spidell wrote: > > ============= > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, > as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told > me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine > builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which > claims high ZDDP. > > AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:12:01 -0500 > From: "Al Fuller" > To: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > Message-ID: <01bd01d2821d$b3c91d10$1b5b5730$@bighealey.org> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Steve: > > > > While I no longer have my BT-7, the place where the top frame assembly fits > on this car looks familiar. On the other hand, it also looks like it has > the mounting plate for a later style convertible top. Is this a clue? > > > > Also as regards your comment regarding major structural modification: it > appears the entire long frame rails have been patched or replaced for most > of their lengths, as evidenced by the lack of weld beads, as well as the > new > beads where they were welded in. is the frame work another clue? > > > > Al > > > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of > BJ8Healeys > Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 7:44 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > > > > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't > the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/9c73278f/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:17:59 -0500 > From: RCT2BNC at aol.com > To: bspidell at comcast.net, healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > Bob, > > I order mine from Amazon when my local suppliers' shelves are empty. > Price > is competitive with the auto-parts stores (if you have Prime and don't pay > for shipping). Maybe you could try this route in California. I also use > single-weight 40, 50 and 60 VR1 sometimes. > > > Ben Cohen > BN1, BN7, BJ8 > > > > > > In a message dated 2/7/2017 6:54:50 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, > bspidell at comcast.net writes: > > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, > as do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told > me a while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine > builder says it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which > claims high ZDDP. > > AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rct2bnc at aol.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/736f9fa9/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 15:32:31 +0000 > From: Jean Caron > To: BJ8Healeys , "healeys at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > Message-ID: > namprd19.prod.outlook.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Steve, > > Looking at the photos, it appears that the chassis is indeed from a BJ7 or > BJ8, at least the "B" posts have the holes for the door latch from a BJ8. > However the door hinges are from an earlier model for sure as the later > cars had the square plates against the "A" posts from what I recall. The > front shroud of a BJ8 is quite different at the windshield so the front > shroud of a BT7 would not work for a BJ7/BJ8 from what I know. I think as > you indicated they simply used a BT7 Serial number. It certainly appears > that they are trying to get rid of some of their parts accumulated over the > years and they had enough for one car. Dealers such as that place could not > care less as long as there is money for them in the end. > > > Jean > > > ________________________________ > From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys < > sbyers at ec.rr.com> > Sent: February 8, 2017 12:43 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > > > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm beverlyhillscarclub.com/1960-austin-healey-3000-c-6836.htm> > > 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 | Beverly Hills Car Club beverlyhillscarclub.com/1960-austin-healey-3000-c-6836.htm> > www.beverlyhillscarclub.com > Classic Car Dealership - European Classic Cars & American Autos. Mercedes, > Jaguar, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari, Austin Healey & more. We Buy & Sell > Classic Cars. > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/1b8ad484/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 07:38:49 -0800 > From: "Bruce Steele" > To: "'Bob Spidell'" , "'Healeys'" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > Message-ID: <032a01d28221$7212c4d0$56384e70$@roadrunner.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I checked at my local NAPA in Brea, CA just a couple of weeks ago, and they > have it. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 3:46 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil > > Anybody know why this isn't available in California any more? Yes, it > supposedly has high levels of ZDDP, but to my knowledge only the 20W-50, as > do other 20W-50s that are still available. My local parts house told me a > while ago they 'had to pull it off the shelves,' and my engine builder says > it's NLA in California, but he sells Kendall 20W-50, which claims high > ZDDP. > > AFAIK, it can still be 'imported.' > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 14 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 16:50:56 +0100 > From: "Niels Bengaard" > To: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems > Message-ID: <001e01d28223$22e95930$68bc0b90$@dk> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > The only bad thing about replacing is that you lose the original VIN > number stamped into the side of the right side plate. > > It might be difficult to spot, but after removing the paint it was visible > on my car. > > > > Niels > > > > Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] P? vegne af rft2 at aol.com > Sendt: 7. februar 2017 23:15 > Til: steveg at abrazosdata.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Emne: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems > > > > Hi Steve, > > > > This is an interesting solution. Just called Tom and looked at the link > you sent me, ordered a couple of plates and will try this method. Looks > like it should work, I'll let you know. > > > > Thank you for this idea. > > Mal Hickok > > BJ7 & BJ8 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve B. Gerow > To: healeys > Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2017 2:57 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Shock Problems > > Tom's Import Toys sells handy replacement plates for $99.50 the pair: > > http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30 < > http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1> &new=1 > > These should be stronger than the Moss captive nuts. You open up the end > of the shock tower, knock out the captive nuts and slide the plate in. > > > -- > Steve Gerow > Altadena, CA > BN6 > Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rft2 at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/af07a134/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 15 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 10:54:56 -0500 > From: "BJ8Healeys" > To: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > Message-ID: <004201d28223$b21d0c00$16572400$@rr.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Thanks for your thoughts, Jean. The door hinges are from a BJ7 or Phase 1 > BJ8. All of the body parts I see in the photos are BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. > Some photos show "spare parts", including what appears to be an armrest and > shreds of original red carpet from a BT7, along with a pre-BJ8 speedometer. > > > I am not familiar enough with pre-BJ8 models to say whether the convertible > windshield and doors would fit on a BT7, but I think they would not. > Perhaps the VIN plate on the firewall belongs to those BT7 "spare parts". > I > think it more likely that someone had a Phase 1 BJ8 and put a BT7 VIN plate > on the firewall than that they tried to make a BJ8 out of a BT7. In that > case, why keep the BT7 VIN plate? > > > > As far as I know, BHCC just sells the cars they buy on to someone else and > don't restore or repair them. I wouldn't think they would be assembling a > car from miscellaneous parts. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > From: Jean Caron [mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com > ] > Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 10:33 AM > To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > > > > Steve, > > Looking at the photos, it appears that the chassis is indeed from a BJ7 or > BJ8, at least the "B" posts have the holes for the door latch from a BJ8. > However the door hinges are from an earlier model for sure as the later > cars > had the square plates against the "A" posts from what I recall. The front > shroud of a BJ8 is quite different at the windshield so the front shroud of > a BT7 would not work for a BJ7/BJ8 from what I know. I think as you > indicated they simply used a BT7 Serial number. It certainly appears that > they are trying to get rid of some of their parts accumulated over the > years > and they had enough for one car. Dealers such as that place could not care > less as long as there is money for them in the end. > > > > Jean > > > > _____ > > From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys > > Sent: February 8, 2017 12:43 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > > > > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 | Beverly Hills Car Club > > www.beverlyhillscarclub.com > > Classic Car Dealership - European Classic Cars & American Autos. Mercedes, > Jaguar, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari, Austin Healey & more. We Buy & Sell > Classic Cars. > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't > the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _____ > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13907 - Release Date: 02/07/17 > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13908 - Release Date: 02/07/17 > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/db274710/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 16 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 09:22:52 -0800 > From: "David Nock" > To: "Al Fuller" , > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > This car looks like a pile of parts that got put together to make up a car. > The rear shroud is BJ7, Phase 1 BJ8 > Carbs are BJ7 > Doors are BJ8 > Dash is a BJ8 > Front shroud BJ7 , Phase 1 BJ8 > Vent windows are BJ8 > Frame cut out for the exhaust is BJ8 late > > Also notice that there are no front springs or plates, the rear end is not > attached., the frame is CRAP > > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 <(209)%20948-8767> > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > From: Al Fuller > Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:12 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > > Steve: > > > > While I no longer have my BT-7, the place where the top frame assembly > fits on this car looks familiar? On the other hand, it also looks like it > has the mounting plate for a later style convertible top. Is this a clue? > > > > Also as regards your comment regarding major structural modification: it > appears the entire long frame rails have been patched or replaced for most > of their lengths, as evidenced by the lack of weld beads, as well as the > new beads where they were welded in. is the frame work another clue? > > > > Al > > > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys > Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 7:44 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > > > > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used directly > onto a BT7 body? > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > isn't the question. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > -------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/5de3d91a/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 17 > Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 08:08:21 -1000 > From: HealeyRick > To: BJ8Healeys > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 --> BJ8? > Message-ID: > mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Steve, > > To your original question, I think it would be possible, but you'd also > have to change the rear shroud as well to get the chrome door top finisher > to match the small chrome finisher on the shroud. Much easier to jack up > the VIN of the BT7 and drive a BJ8 under it. BTW, BHCC has a search > function that says "Find the car of your dreams" Obviously, it was broken > for this one. > > Happy Healeying, > Rick Neville > > On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 2:43 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > > Beverly Hills Car Club has a car for sale that they say is HBT7L3678. The > > car has the features of a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8 and none of a BT7. Is it > > physically possible without major structural modification to create a > > BJ7/BJ8 from a BT7? Can a convertible windshield and doors be used > directly > > onto a BT7 body? > > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1...000-c-6836.htm > > > > > > > > > > Yes, I know it's easier just to put a BT7 VIN plate on a BJ8, but that > > isn't the question. > > > > > > > > Steve Byers > > > > HBJ8L/36666 > > > > BJ8 Registry > > > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170208/31562544/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 45 > *************************************** > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/fgspringer at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Fri Feb 10 12:43:10 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 19:43:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> Hi Simon, I? think that keeping any sort of energy storage device well away from the fuel gauge circuit is sage advice. I would suggest that you try this: http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/06/smiths-and-jaegar-fuel-gauge-solution/ Michael S BN1 #174 On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 7:29 AM +1300, "Simon Lachlan" wrote: Hi, I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it. So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank. Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it? Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Feb 10 13:00:27 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 15:00:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> You can find it on my site at: http://www.healey6.com/Technical/FUEL%20GAUGE%20DAMPENER.png John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener Hi, I'd saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don't recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I'd made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it. So, my nephew's fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. First off, I agree that there's no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank. Having said that, I read the advice that I'd stored so carefully and began to wonder if I'd understood it correctly. Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn't the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge's terminal T? And wouldn't those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? Shouldn't the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it? Maybe I'm over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Fri Feb 10 13:15:13 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 12:15:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Fuel_Gauge_Dampener?= I've been using one of these for years. For details, see: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/101096144 PS - it's not perfect but it helps needle bouncing. Seems to result in a narrowed range of needle operation. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Feb 10 13:18:27 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 15:18:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] looking for a batch number Listers, I was contacted by someone looking for the batch number for a 3000 MkI. The VIN is HBT7L8195 and the Body # is 8290. Anyone have the batch number for a car near this one? I also suggested that he contact the British Motor Museum and I've sent an email to Mell Ward, the UK registrar. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php From schottc at knology.net Fri Feb 10 15:30:33 2017 From: schottc at knology.net (Charlie Schott) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 16:30:33 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> <000001d283d8$54cb2620$fe617260$@verizon.net> I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the engine to raise it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks. Regards, Charlie From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener Hi, I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it. So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank. Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it? Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much. Simon -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Fri Feb 10 15:29:58 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 22:29:58 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener Hey Simon, The Triumph Spitfires and GT6, I believe, had voltage stabilizers for the fuel gauge. Maybe they could be used in a Healey? I would defer to Michael for an answer. Cheers, Doug Hi Simon, I think that keeping any sort of energy storage device well away from the fuel gauge circuit is sage advice.I would suggest that you try this: http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/06/smiths-and-jaegar-fuel-gauge-solution/ Michael S BN1 #174 On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 7:29 AM +1300, "Simon Lachlan" wrote: Hi,I’d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don’t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I’d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it.So, my nephew’s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes.First off, I agree that there’s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank.Having said that, I read the advice that I’d stored so carefully and began to wonder if I’d understood it correctly.Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn’t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge’s terminal T? And wouldn’t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor?Shouldn’t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it?Maybe I’m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much.Simon ____________________________________________________________ College Student Discovers The Fastest Way To Lose Weight! Capitalizing Calories http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/589e3f1488ffe3f140c41st03duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri Feb 10 16:44:25 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 15:44:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge Dampener References: <20170210201513.32696.qmail@hoster902.com> I also used this after seeing Steve's car, and it works well enough. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve B. Gerow Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 12:15 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge Dampener I've been using one of these for years. For details, see: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/101096144 PS - it's not perfect but it helps needle bouncing. Seems to result in a narrowed range of needle operation. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri Feb 10 17:02:11 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 16:02:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn't dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Off comes the head... Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Fri Feb 10 17:59:19 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 00:59:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener References: <20170210.172958.22737.0@webmail13.dca.untd.com> The gauges with voltage stabilizers work in a different resistance range. You would have to change out all of the electrical gauges. I think the problem with the fuel gauge jumping around may be related to the condition of the contacts in the fuel sending unit. Maybe try cleaning those up before trying anything drastic. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of dwflagg at juno.com Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 10:29:58 PM To: michael.salter at gmail.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener Hey Simon, The Triumph Spitfires and GT6, I believe, had voltage stabilizers for the fuel gauge. Maybe they could be used in a Healey? I would defer to Michael for an answer. Cheers, Doug Hi Simon, I think that keeping any sort of energy storage device well away from the fuel gauge circuit is sage advice. I would suggest that you try this: http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/06/smiths-and-jaegar-fuel-gauge-solution/ Michael S BN1 #174 Hi, I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it. So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank. Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it? Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much. Simon ____________________________________________________________ College Student Discovers The Fastest Way To Lose Weight! Capitalizing Calories http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/589e3f1488ffe3f140c41st03duc [SponsoredBy Content.Ad] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Feb 10 18:03:28 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 20:03:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> Look at this solution: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/101096144 Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Simon Lachlan Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 2:43 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener Hi, I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it. So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank. Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it? Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Feb 10 18:06:09 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 17:06:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> <000001d283d8$54cb2620$fe617260$@verizon.net> Did this a couple years ago. You'll need to pull the radiator, detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the engine mounts (at the bottom). Don't lift at the pan unless you're able to spread the load considerably. It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts. My engine rebuilder just pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is open to the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread sealant on it. Unless your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to use some sort of sealant on the gasket. The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should have been torqued to 150lb-ft. You have to lift the engine enough for this nut, and whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the crossmember. I used a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the socket on straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad. Bob On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: > I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would > someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the engine to > raise it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks. > Regards, > Charlie > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Simon Lachlan > *Sent:* Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener > > Hi, > > I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel > gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled > it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately > against some day in the future when I might get round to actually > doing it. > > So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this > prompted me to dig out the article/notes. > > First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor > anywhere near the fuel tank. > > Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and > began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. > > Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals > on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the > language that I can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come > down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s > terminal T? And wouldn?t those fluctuations still register as such on > the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? > > Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the > fluctuations cannot bypass it? > > Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without > understanding it. Maybe I think too much. > > Simon > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Feb 10 20:03:20 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 19:03:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com> Begs the question: How did the 'bag full of sludge' get into the water jacket? Bob On 2/10/2017 4:02 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil > is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. > They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; > nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a > bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. > Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all > this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to > foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor > oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, > we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor > with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods > and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the > new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > *From:* Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] > *Sent:* Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* Off comes the head... > > Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping > it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was > done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water > jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil > into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this > problem? > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Fri Feb 10 20:09:39 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 03:09:39 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com> Not sure about coating the water jacket with epoxy. I would think that would impede heat transfer... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bruce Steele Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 12:02:11 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Off comes the head... Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Feb 10 21:21:10 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 20:21:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener References: <20170210.172958.22737.0@webmail13.dca.untd.com> I believe the quality of the resistor in the sending unit can be the problem. After market sending units have a lot of space between the windings and some have single contacts. The original ones have very tight windings and may have duel contacts although I am not sure about the last point. Joh Spaur '62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 4:59 PM To: dwflagg at juno.com; michael.salter at gmail.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener The gauges with voltage stabilizers work in a different resistance range You would have to change out all of the electrical gauges. I think the problem with the fuel gauge jumping around may be related to the condition of the contacts in the fuel sending unit. Maybe try cleaning those up before trying anything drastic. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Fri Feb 10 21:54:31 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2017 20:54:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?timing_chain_cover_gasket?= i have found that it pays to unbolt the exhaust headers from manifold if your flexible pipe is not so flexible anymore. From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sat Feb 11 00:21:06 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 07:21:06 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor We?re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a positive earth BJ8. The timing may be all to hell. I?m in the UK; the car?s in Paris. Let?s say that the clamp bolts ?may somehow have got loosened? during the initially successful swap from points to Ignitor the other day. (Yes, it?s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in the boot when the car was delivered.) Now, I?ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static Timing etc with a view that we may have to go down that track, if it proves that we have air, fuel and spark but not necessarily in the right order! I?ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is primarily a Good Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting information. For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be static timed. Another source implies that all EI?s, including Ignitor IIs, can be timed by putting a multimeter across the coil?s primary connections. Another one says:- ?To begin the timing exercise you must statically time the engine at around 10 degrees BTDC. With the engine at 10 degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the distributor so that the points are just about to open or in the case of an electronic distributor so that the stator and rotor tips are just aligning. Lock the distributor enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum advance retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start the engine and let it idle, adjust the timing with the engine running to 10 degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.? (Ignore the 10? advice.) With reference to an Ignitor ..does this apply? And what is the ?stator?? I can ?assume? that it?s the little curved black box of tricks? Does this or could this apply to the Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate one would have assume that the critical alignment point in the ?stator? was prec.isely in the centre of the inside of the curve??..... I suppose one could try the voltmeter across the coil method and see where the rotor was in relation to the ?stator??? Any thoughts??? (A lot of ?assumes? in the last paragraph) Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I?ve timed them, but never had to go back to Stage One ie I?ve used a timing light and made adjustments to a running engine rather than go back to basics where the timing is completely out and the engine won?t fire at all. Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris! Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 45920 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Feb 11 00:44:16 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 07:44:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com> You don't want to coat the water jacket with anything.? You don't need anything impeding the heat transfer of antifreeze making direct contact to the water jacket surface.Mike MacLean On Friday, February 10, 2017 7:06 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: #yiv0738400708 #yiv0738400708 -- filtered {font-family:Helvetica;panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;}#yiv0738400708 filtered {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}#yiv0738400708 filtered {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv0738400708 filtered {panose-1:2 11 6 3 2 2 2 2 2 4;}#yiv0738400708 p.yiv0738400708MsoNormal, #yiv0738400708 li.yiv0738400708MsoNormal, #yiv0738400708 div.yiv0738400708MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv0738400708 a:link, #yiv0738400708 span.yiv0738400708MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0738400708 a:visited, #yiv0738400708 span.yiv0738400708MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0738400708 span.yiv0738400708EmailStyle17 {color:windowtext;}#yiv0738400708 span.yiv0738400708EmailStyle18 {color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv0738400708 .yiv0738400708MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv0738400708 filtered {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv0738400708 div.yiv0738400708WordSection1 {}#yiv0738400708 So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. ?They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. ?Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block.? Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant.? Fooled me, for sure.? For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel.? I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. ?Bruce SteeleBrea, CA1960 BN7 ?From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Off comes the head... ?Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? ?Bruce SteeleBrea, CA1960 BN7 ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 11 01:06:59 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 09:06:59 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener References: <20170210.172958.22737.0@webmail13.dca.untd.com> The later Smiths/Jaeger gauges in many UK cars, and in the later AH for that matter, are bimetal operated gauges, a current regulated by the variable resistor in the sender heats a bimetal which will react in bending, driving the needle pointer, however it reacts very slowly hence a stable reading. These are fed by 10V provided by a small regulator somewhere behind the dash. They have a ca. 90? window over the scale. The early ones are coil operated which react instantly. A capacitor to damped the reading is a good idea. Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-2-2017 om 23:29 schreef dwflagg at juno.com: > Hey Simon, > The Triumph Spitfires and GT6, I believe, had voltage stabilizers for > the fuel gauge. Maybe they could be used in a Healey? I would defer to > Michael for an answer. > Cheers, > Doug > > Hi Simon, I think that keeping any sort of energy storage device well > away from the fuel gauge circuit is sage advice. > I would suggest that you try this: > > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/06/smiths-and-jaegar-fuel-gauge-solution/ > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > > > On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 7:29 AM +1300, "Simon Lachlan" > wrote: > > Hi, > I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my > fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if > I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it > appropriately against some day in the future when I might get > round to actually doing it. > So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and > this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. > First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor > anywhere near the fuel tank. > Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully > and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. > Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two > terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it > crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the > fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender > unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those > fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally > unaffected by the capacitor? > Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the > fluctuations cannot bypass it? > Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without > understanding it. Maybe I think too much. > Simon > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *College Student Discovers The Fastest Way To Lose Weight!* > Capitalizing Calories > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/589e3f1488ffe3f140c41st03duc > SponsoredBy Content.Ad > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Feb 11 02:09:34 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 20:09:34 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com> That's great news Bruce! We have a process over here called redistrip. They have 3 separate processes. Cast iron - It's awesome for blocks and heads. Removed everything that isn't cast iron. No crap left. Only cast iron. They also have a process for aluminum. Only leaves aluminum - they did my shrouds. And one for steel. They did my guards/ bonnet etc. no paint, no bog, no filler. Their cast iron process has no equal. Glad you caught the issue before it cost you an engine. You now have 2 options in my book. Paint the oil side inside the block with red lead primer like the factory did. That's what I did, also inside my gearbox. Or get the block epoxy vacuum injected. Epoxy vacuum injection is what most manufacturers do to high pressure alloy castings. Basically, they put your totally cleaned block or head or whatever into a vacuum tank, then put in a bath of 2 pack epoxy, evacuate all air, and the 2 pack is sucked into every microscopic air hole. Never leaks. Google the processes. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone > On 11 Feb. 2017, at 11:02 am, Bruce Steele wrote: > > So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] > Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM > To: 'Healey List' > Subject: Off comes the head... > > Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 11 02:42:39 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 10:42:39 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com> Coating the waterjacket with epoxy??? What about heat transfer from metal to coolant? Just Don't. Use proper coolant instead. Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-2-2017 om 1:02 schreef Bruce Steele: > > So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil > is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. > They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; > nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a > bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. > Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all > this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to > foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor > oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, > we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor > with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods > and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the > new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > *From:* Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] > *Sent:* Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* Off comes the head... > > Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping > it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was > done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water > jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil > into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this > problem? > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 11 05:02:04 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 13:02:04 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor References: <000001d28437$69772790$3c6576b0$@homecall.co.uk> Set the crankshaft at the desired static ignition timing. Set the distributor housing with the rotor in the approximate position of no.1 cylinder on its compression stroke, then slightly back. Switch on the ignition and turn the distributor forwards until you hear the faint click of the spark. Switch of the ignition immediately. That would be fine for fine tuning the timing dynamically. Do not leave on the electronic ignition unnecessary, it may get damaged if left on for a long time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-2-2017 om 8:21 schreef Simon Lachlan: > > We?re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a positive > earth BJ8. > > The timing may be all to hell. I?m in the UK; the car?s in Paris. > > Let?s say that the clamp bolts ?may somehow have got loosened? during > the initially successful swap from points to Ignitor the other day. > > (Yes, it?s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in the > boot when the car was delivered.) > > Now, I?ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static Timing etc > with a view that we may have to go down that track, if it proves that > we have air, fuel and spark but not necessarily in the right order! > > I?ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is primarily a > Good Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting information. > > For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be static > timed. Another source implies that all EI?s, including Ignitor IIs, > can be timed by putting a multimeter across the coil?s primary > connections. > > Another one says:- ?To begin the timing exercise you must statically > time the engine at around *10* degrees BTDC. With the engine at *10* > degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the distributor so that the > points are just about to open or in the case of an electronic > distributor */_so that the stator and rotor tips are just aligning_/*. > Lock the distributor enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum > advance retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start the engine > and let it idle, adjust the timing with the engine running to *10* > degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.? > > (Ignore the 10? advice.) With reference to an Ignitor?..does this > apply? And what is the ?stator?? I can ?assume? that it?s the little > curved black box of tricks? Does this or could this apply to the > Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate??one would have assume that the > critical alignment point in the ?stator? was prec.isely in the centre > of the inside of the curve??..... I suppose one could try the > voltmeter across the coil method and see where the rotor was in > relation to the ?stator??? Any > > Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I?ve timed them, but > never had to go back to Stage One ie I?ve used a timing light and made > adjustments to a running engine rather than go back to basics where > the timing is completely out and the engine won?t fire at all. > > Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris! > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Feb 11 08:17:49 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 10:17:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Bolts & Screws - the firewall. References: <023401d283ec$42e4ff30$c8aefd90$@bigpond.net.au> Can someone help Les with his questions. Thanks John Sims Good morning John, I hope you got my note of thanks regarding my suspension issues etc. the other day, if not let me know. I love your site, but sometimes I struggle know where to start. I live in east Gippsland, in Victoria - Australia. Miles from much technical advice etc. And it doesn't matter what project I am on (with the Healey, an old Ford prefect or my 57 year old timber cruiser) I always struggle to get the right or accurate types of nuts & bolts etc. I am in the process of installing a heater box in my 100/6. I have a heater box & radiator which I have cleaned up & am sourcing other bits. The costs of the bits & pieces new aren't bad except the blower & mounts. If you know someone who has a second hand one could you please let me know. Anyway that's not what I am really contacting you about. There are many wires, cables etc. that go through firewall, clearly on mine some are in the wrong place. (especially apparent when you are playing around with the heater box). Is the a definitive picture - diagram of the firewall detailing what should go where? And further to this, the heater box is held in by a number of screws/bolts by what appears to captive nuts affixed the fire wall? Do you know what size & type of thread these are. There are a number these throughout the firewall supporting other bits. Thanks again my friend Warm regards Les Les Mathieson 4 Araluen Court (PO Box 142) Paynesville VIC 3880 0418106725 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sat Feb 11 08:51:28 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock British Car Specialists) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 07:51:28 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com> The coating is not the entire cooling system it will only be done in the bottom of the cooling system . This is a process that is done on race motors and high end exotic motors. We just did it to a 1098 Sprite cylinder head which is not available. You put the sealer where ever you suspect the problem only. The block had previously been rebuilt in 2000. When it was cleaned at that time I assume the was most likely hot tanked. The cleaning process we use is a three step process. It goes thru a media blazer, then a burner and lastly a pressure washer. This process leaves the block totally bare cast iron. When it came out of the burners the filter had about 2 1 gallon plastic bags of material that came from this motor. Normally there is about a sandwich bag full. This material was inside the cooling system and we are assuming the there was oil in there from the rebuild. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009 Enjoy www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs . . Sent from my iPad > On Feb 10, 2017, at 4:02 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] > Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM > To: 'Healey List' > Subject: Off comes the head... > > Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Sat Feb 11 09:09:51 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 11:09:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update Sludge comes in bags now? Larry -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: Bruce Steele ; 'Healey List' Sent: Sat, Feb 11, 2017 6:37 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update Begs the question: How did the 'bag full of sludge' get into the water jacket? Bob On 2/10/2017 4:02 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. ?They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. ?Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block.? Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant.? Fooled me, for sure.? For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel.? I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Off comes the head... ? Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sat Feb 11 11:36:00 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 10:36:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <111cfff7-c6fd-a846-0718-a40513d7e65d@comcast.net> <15a2df00dbc-6ee3-9d5@webprd-a82.mail.aol.com> Apparently when it's my engine it does! Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Larry Wendland [mailto:bighealey3k at aim.com] Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 8:10 AM To: bspidell at comcast.net; healeybruce at roadrunner.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update Sludge comes in bags now? Larry -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: Bruce Steele ; 'Healey List' Sent: Sat, Feb 11, 2017 6:37 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update Begs the question: How did the 'bag full of sludge' get into the water jacket? Bob On 2/10/2017 4:02 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Off comes the head... Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sat Feb 11 14:32:59 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 16:32:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor References: <000001d28437$69772790$3c6576b0$@homecall.co.uk> <5cf137c8-1746-97a6-8dcf-2d5a59862980@chello.nl> I am probably showing my ignorance on ignition theory but I have never understood the concern with static timing versus dynamic (total) timing when the car is running. Since the amount of centrifugal advance is not adjustable why am I concerned with what the initial static timing is? So long as the distributor is oriented correctly and I am in the ballpark--usually verified by the engine's starting--all I do is set total timing at 3000 rpms's. If I am missing something I would appreciate learning what that is. Best--Michael Oritt On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 7:02 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Set the crankshaft at the desired static ignition timing. Set the > distributor housing with the rotor in the approximate position of no.1 > cylinder on its compression stroke, then slightly back. Switch on the > ignition and turn the distributor forwards until you hear the faint click > of the spark. Switch of the ignition immediately. That would be fine for > fine tuning the timing dynamically. > Do not leave on the electronic ignition unnecessary, it may get damaged if > left on for a long time. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 11-2-2017 om 8:21 schreef Simon Lachlan: > > We?re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a positive earth > BJ8. > > The timing may be all to hell. I?m in the UK; the car?s in Paris. > > Let?s say that the clamp bolts ?may somehow have got loosened? during the > initially successful swap from points to Ignitor the other day. > > (Yes, it?s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in the boot > when the car was delivered.) > > Now, I?ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static Timing etc with a > view that we may have to go down that track, if it proves that we have air, > fuel and spark but not necessarily in the right order! > > I?ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is primarily a Good > Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting information. > > For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be static timed. > Another source implies that all EI?s, including Ignitor IIs, can be timed > by putting a multimeter across the coil?s primary connections. > > Another one says:- ?To begin the timing exercise you must statically time > the engine at around *10* degrees BTDC. With the engine at *10* degrees > BTDC on the firing stroke align the distributor so that the points are just > about to open or in the case of an electronic distributor *so that the > stator and rotor tips are just aligning*. Lock the distributor enough to > stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum advance retard is disconnected and > the tube plugged. Start the engine and let it idle, adjust the timing with > the engine running to *10* degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.? > > (Ignore the 10? advice.) With reference to an Ignitor?..does this apply? > And what is the ?stator?? I can ?assume? that it?s the little curved black > box of tricks? Does this or could this apply to the Pertronix? Seems a bit > inaccurate??one would have assume that the critical alignment point in the > ?stator? was prec.isely in the centre of the inside of the curve??..... I > suppose one could try the voltmeter across the coil method and see where > the rotor was in relation to the ?stator??? Any > > Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I?ve timed them, but > never had to go back to Stage One ie I?ve used a timing light and made > adjustments to a running engine rather than go back to basics where the > timing is completely out and the engine won?t fire at all. > > Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris! > > Simon > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Sat Feb 11 18:40:31 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 01:40:31 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor References: <000001d28437$69772790$3c6576b0$@homecall.co.uk> <5cf137c8-1746-97a6-8dcf-2d5a59862980@chello.nl>, I think that back in the day not everyone had a timing light so the manufacturers used static timing because that was a good starting point to fine tune the engine. You could then get closer to the optimum by ear. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael Oritt Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 9:32:59 PM To: Oudesluys Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor I am probably showing my ignorance on ignition theory but I have never understood the concern with static timing versus dynamic (total) timing when the car is running. Since the amount of centrifugal advance is not adjustable why am I concerned with what the initial static timing is? So long as the distributor is oriented correctly and I am in the ballpark--usually verified by the engine's starting--all I do is set total timing at 3000 rpms's. If I am missing something I would appreciate learning what that is. Best--Michael Oritt Set the crankshaft at the desired static ignition timing. Set the distributor housing with the rotor in the approximate position of no.1 cylinder on its compression stroke, then slightly back. Switch on the ignition and turn the distributor forwards until you hear the faint click of the spark. Switch of the ignition immediately. That would be fine for fine tuning the timing dynamically. Do not leave on the electronic ignition unnecessary, it may get damaged if left on for a long time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-2-2017 om 8:21 schreef Simon Lachlan: We?re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a positive earth BJ8. The timing may be all to hell. I?m in the UK; the car?s in Paris. Let?s say that the clamp bolts ?may somehow have got loosened? during the initially successful swap from points to Ignitor the other day. (Yes, it?s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in the boot when the car was delivered.) Now, I?ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static Timing etc with a view that we may have to go down that track, if it proves that we have air, fuel and spark but not necessarily in the right order! I?ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is primarily a Good Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting information. For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be static timed. Another source implies that all EI?s, including Ignitor IIs, can be timed by putting a multimeter across the coil?s primary connections. Another one says:- ?To begin the timing exercise you must statically time the engine at around 10 degrees BTDC. With the engine at 10 degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the distributor so that the points are just about to open or in the case of an electronic distributor so that the stator and rotor tips are just aligning. Lock the distributor enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum advance retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start the engine and let it idle, adjust the timing with the engine running to 10 degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.? (Ignore the 10? advice.) With reference to an Ignitor?..does this apply? And what is the ?stator?? I can ?assume? that it?s the little curved black box of tricks? Does this or could this apply to the Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate??one would have assume that the critical alignment point in the ?stator? was prec.isely in the centre of the inside of the curve??..... I suppose one could try the voltmeter across the coil method and see where the rotor was in relation to the ?stator??? Any Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I?ve timed them, but never had to go back to Stage One ie I?ve used a timing light and made adjustments to a running engine rather than go back to basics where the timing is completely out and the engine won?t fire at all. Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris! Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Feb 11 21:50:17 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 20:50:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor References: <000001d28437$69772790$3c6576b0$@homecall.co.uk> I haven't done this--and my engine is elsewhere so I'm working from feeble memory--but I THINK this'll work, if the distributor has been installed correctly: 1) turn the engine to TDC on the #1 cylinder, using whatever method you prefer 2) put the rotor on the distributor cam, it should point to about 2 o'clock IIRC 3) find the #1 secondary lead terminal on the inside of the distributor and make a mark corresponding to its location on the outside of the cap (firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4; #1 is the 'first' terminal on the 'bottom' level again, IIRC) 4) put the cap on the distributor and turn the distributor body so that your mark for the #1 cylinder is approximately over the center of the rotor tip (again, about 2 o'clock), plus turn the distributor a few degrees clockwise This should get the timing close enough for the engine to fire, then use an advance meter, or trial-and-error, to fine tune the timing. This is just a SWAG, but I think it'll work. Anybody see an issue please chime in. Bob On 2/10/2017 11:21 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > We?re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a positive > earth BJ8. > > The timing may be all to hell. I?m in the UK; the car?s in Paris. > > Let?s say that the clamp bolts ?may somehow have got loosened? during > the initially successful swap from points to Ignitor the other day. > > (Yes, it?s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in the > boot when the car was delivered.) > > Now, I?ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static Timing etc > with a view that we may have to go down that track, if it proves that > we have air, fuel and spark but not necessarily in the right order! > > I?ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is primarily a > Good Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting information. > > For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be static > timed. Another source implies that all EI?s, including Ignitor IIs, > can be timed by putting a multimeter across the coil?s primary > connections. > > Another one says:- ?To begin the timing exercise you must statically > time the engine at around *10* degrees BTDC. With the engine at *10* > degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the distributor so that the > points are just about to open or in the case of an electronic > distributor */_so that the stator and rotor tips are just aligning_/*. > Lock the distributor enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum > advance retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start the engine > and let it idle, adjust the timing with the engine running to *10* > degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.? > > (Ignore the 10? advice.) With reference to an Ignitor?..does this > apply? And what is the ?stator?? I can ?assume? that it?s the little > curved black box of tricks? Does this or could this apply to the > Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate??one would have assume that the > critical alignment point in the ?stator? was prec.isely in the centre > of the inside of the curve??..... I suppose one could try the > voltmeter across the coil method and see where the rotor was in > relation to the ?stator??? Any thoughts??? (A lot of ?assumes? in the > last paragraph) > > Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I?ve timed them, but > never had to go back to Stage One ie I?ve used a timing light and made > adjustments to a running engine rather than go back to basics where > the timing is completely out and the engine won?t fire at all. > > Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris! > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: image/jpeg Size: 45920 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sun Feb 12 04:51:22 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 11:51:22 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor References: <000001d28437$69772790$3c6576b0$@homecall.co.uk> <5cf137c8-1746-97a6-8dcf-2d5a59862980@chello.nl> In this instance, static timing would precede dynamic timing because the car was so far out of tune that the engine would not run. In my thinking, static is only used to get the timing onto the right map page, enabling the engine to be started and then tuned more precisely by other means. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt Sent: 11 February 2017 21:33 To: Oudesluys Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor I am probably showing my ignorance on ignition theory but I have never understood the concern with static timing versus dynamic (total) timing when the car is running. Since the amount of centrifugal advance is not adjustable why am I concerned with what the initial static timing is? So long as the distributor is oriented correctly and I am in the ballpark--usually verified by the engine's starting--all I do is set total timing at 3000 rpms's. If I am missing something I would appreciate learning what that is. Best--Michael Oritt Set the crankshaft at the desired static ignition timing. Set the distributor housing with the rotor in the approximate position of no.1 cylinder on its compression stroke, then slightly back. Switch on the ignition and turn the distributor forwards until you hear the faint click of the spark. Switch of the ignition immediately. That would be fine for fine tuning the timing dynamically. Do not leave on the electronic ignition unnecessary, it may get damaged if left on for a long time. Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-2-2017 om 8:21 schreef Simon Lachlan: We?re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a positive earth BJ8. The timing may be all to hell. I?m in the UK; the car?s in Paris. Let?s say that the clamp bolts ?may somehow have got loosened? during the initially successful swap from points to Ignitor the other day. (Yes, it?s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in the boot when the car was delivered.) Now, I?ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static Timing etc with a view that we may have to go down that track, if it proves that we have air, fuel and spark but not necessarily in the right order! I?ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is primarily a Good Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting information. For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be static timed. Another source implies that all EI?s, including Ignitor IIs, can be timed by putting a multimeter across the coil?s primary connections. Another one says:- ?To begin the timing exercise you must statically time the engine at around 10 degrees BTDC. With the engine at 10 degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the distributor so that the points are just about to open or in the case of an electronic distributor so that the stator and rotor tips are just aligning. Lock the distributor enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum advance retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start the engine and let it idle, adjust the timing with the engine running to 10 degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.? (Ignore the 10? advice.) With reference to an Ignitor?..does this apply? And what is the ?stator?? I can ?assume? that it?s the little curved black box of tricks? Does this or could this apply to the Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate??one would have assume that the critical alignment point in the ?stator? was prec.isely in the centre of the inside of the curve??..... I suppose one could try the voltmeter across the coil method and see where the rotor was in relation to the ?stator??? Any Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I?ve timed them, but never had to go back to Stage One ie I?ve used a timing light and made adjustments to a running engine rather than go back to basics where the timing is completely out and the engine won?t fire at all. Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris! Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Feb 12 10:15:58 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 18:15:58 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor References: <000001d28437$69772790$3c6576b0$@homecall.co.uk> <5cf137c8-1746-97a6-8dcf-2d5a59862980@chello.nl> <000001d28526$54eff870$fecfe950$@homecall.co.uk> Not quite, setting the static timing was the only means at the time and the instructions should be accurate. Nowadays it is more convenient to set the timing dynamically, but without vacuum and at stationary revs, which is in most cases the same as the static timing. The so called fine tuning is in practice irrelevant except when the car is tuned on a rolling road. However you can check if the centrifugal advance mechanism is working properly by keeping the engine on e.g. 2500 or 3000rpm and check what advance is indicated. Disconnect the vacuum line for this though. The vacuum advance/retard, if fitted, is only in operation at low load. Kees Oudesluijs Op 12-2-2017 om 12:51 schreef Simon Lachlan: > > In this instance, static timing would precede dynamic timing because > the car was so far out of tune that the engine would not run. > > In my thinking, static is only used to get the timing onto the right > map page, enabling the engine to be started and then tuned more > precisely by other means. > > Simon > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael Oritt > *Sent:* 11 February 2017 21:33 > *To:* Oudesluys > *Cc:* Austin Healey > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor > > I am probably showing my ignorance on ignition theory but I have never > understood the concern with static timing versus dynamic (total) > timing when the car is running. Since the amount of centrifugal > advance is not adjustable why am I concerned with what the initial > static timing is? > > So long as the distributor is oriented correctly and I am in the > ballpark--usually verified by the engine's starting--all I do is set > total timing at 3000 rpms's. > > If I am missing something I would appreciate learning what that is. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 7:02 AM, Oudesluys > Set the crankshaft at the desired static ignition timing. Set the > distributor housing with the rotor in the approximate position of > no.1 cylinder on its compression stroke, then slightly back. > Switch on the ignition and turn the distributor forwards until you > hear the faint click of the spark. Switch of the ignition > immediately. That would be fine for fine tuning the timing > dynamically. > Do not leave on the electronic ignition unnecessary, it may get > damaged if left on for a long time. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 11-2-2017 om 8:21 schreef Simon Lachlan: > > We?re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a > positive earth BJ8. > > The timing may be all to hell. I?m in the UK; the car?s in Paris. > > Let?s say that the clamp bolts ?may somehow have got loosened? > during the initially successful swap from points to Ignitor > the other day. > > (Yes, it?s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in > the boot when the car was delivered.) > > Now, I?ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static > Timing etc with a view that we may have to go down that track, > if it proves that we have air, fuel and spark but not > necessarily in the right order! > > I?ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is > primarily a Good Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting > information. > > For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be > static timed. Another source implies that all EI?s, including > Ignitor IIs, can be timed by putting a multimeter across the > coil?s primary connections. > > Another one says:- ?To begin the timing exercise you must > statically time the engine at around *10* degrees BTDC. With > the engine at *10* degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the > distributor so that the points are just about to open or in > the case of an electronic distributor */_so that the stator > and rotor tips are just aligning_/*. Lock the distributor > enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum advance > retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start the engine > and let it idle, adjust the timing with the engine running to > *10* degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.? > > (Ignore the 10? advice.) With reference to an Ignitor?..does > this apply? And what is the ?stator?? I can ?assume? that it?s > the little curved black box of tricks? Does this or could this > apply to the Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate??one would have > assume that the critical alignment point in the ?stator? was > prec.isely in the centre of the inside of the curve??..... I > suppose one could try the voltmeter across the coil method and > see where the rotor was in relation to the ?stator??? Any > > Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I?ve timed > them, but never had to go back to Stage One ie I?ve used a > timing light and made adjustments to a running engine rather > than go back to basics where the timing is completely out and > the engine won?t fire at all. > > Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris! > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums:http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Feb 12 10:46:52 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 17:46:52 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Randy Randy, Can you please contact me off list. Have a 100/4 question. Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ What's the Best Crossovers for 2017 money-rankings.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/58a09fc56c2a71fc55a51st01duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah3000me at gmail.com Sun Feb 12 11:00:04 2017 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 13:00:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> <000001d283d8$54cb2620$fe617260$@verizon.net> <5e398f3a-14ec-2762-b107-2e6197b13282@comcast.net> So, even if you manage to get the nut loose without lifting the engine, the nut will get stuck on the crossmember as you undo it? - Tom On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Did this a couple years ago. You'll need to pull the radiator, detach the > throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the engine mounts (at the > bottom). Don't lift at the pan unless you're able to spread the load > considerably. > > It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the > crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts. My engine rebuilder just > pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is open to the > crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread sealant on it. Unless > your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to use some sort of sealant on the > gasket. > > The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should have been > torqued to 150lb-ft. You have to lift the engine enough for this nut, and > whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the crossmember. I used a 3/4" > impact wrench, and couldn't get the socket on straight and ended up > mangling the nut pretty bad. > > Bob > > On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: > > I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would > someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the engine to raise > it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Simon Lachlan > *Sent:* Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener > > > > Hi, > > I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. > I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the > net. I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in > the future when I might get round to actually doing it. > > So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this > prompted me to dig out the article/notes. > > First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere > near the fuel tank. > > Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and began > to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. > > Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on > the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language > that I can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come down the > Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And > wouldn?t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally > unaffected by the capacitor? > > Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations > cannot bypass it? > > Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without > understanding it. Maybe I think too much. > > Simon > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@ > knology.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Sun Feb 12 11:24:39 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 13:24:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Arm rest References: Does anyone have one or a picture or viewable information on the arm rest with the lift up lid that was available on the BJ8 phase I cars. I am interested is seeing what it was, if it was useful and comments on why it was discontinued. It seems to me that many people are adding cup holders and "cubbies" of one sort or another and since my arm rest needs to be redone, it may make some sense to duplicate the original. Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 63 BJ7 deceased -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Feb 12 13:00:08 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 12:00:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> <000001d283d8$54cb2620$fe617260$@verizon.net> <5e398f3a-14ec-2762-b107-2e6197b13282@comcast.net> You can loosen the nut with an open end wrench and engine torque. Once loosened, you can then proceed disconnecting everything and lifting the engine. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 10:00 AM To: Bob Spidell Cc: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket So, even if you manage to get the nut loose without lifting the engine, the nut will get stuck on the crossmember as you undo it? - Tom Did this a couple years ago. You'll need to pull the radiator, detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the engine mounts (at the bottom). Don't lift at the pan unless you're able to spread the load considerably. It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts. My engine rebuilder just pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is open to the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread sealant on it. Unless your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to use some sort of sealant on the gasket. The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should have been torqued to 150lb-ft. You have to lift the engine enough for this nut, and whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the crossmember. I used a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the socket on straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad. Bob On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the engine to raise it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks. Regards, Charlie From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener Hi, I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it appropriately against some day in the future when I might get round to actually doing it. So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor anywhere near the fuel tank. Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally unaffected by the capacitor? Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the fluctuations cannot bypass it? Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without understanding it. Maybe I think too much. Simon _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Feb 12 13:18:31 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 12:18:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor References: <000001d28437$69772790$3c6576b0$@homecall.co.uk> <5cf137c8-1746-97a6-8dcf-2d5a59862980@chello.nl> <000001d28526$54eff870$fecfe950$@homecall.co.uk> <64379d41-809a-1362-ade8-6d1105dce414@chello.nl> "... The vacuum advance/retard, if fitted, is only in operation at low load." This is something I've wondered about. This is true for 'manifold' vacuum, but the vacuum pickup off a Healey's SU carbs is near the throttle, which I believe is called 'port' vacuum. If my knowledge of Bournelli is correct, this vacuum is created by air moving over the port, and increases with airflow. Please advise. Bob On 2/12/2017 9:15 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Not quite, setting the static timing was the only means at the time > and the instructions should be accurate. Nowadays it is more > convenient to set the timing dynamically, but without vacuum and at > stationary revs, which is in most cases the same as the static timing. > The so called fine tuning is in practice irrelevant except when the > car is tuned on a rolling road. However you can check if the > centrifugal advance mechanism is working properly by keeping the > engine on e.g. 2500 or 3000rpm and check what advance is indicated. > Disconnect the vacuum line for this though. The vacuum advance/retard, > if fitted, is only in operation at low load. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 12-2-2017 om 12:51 schreef Simon Lachlan: >> >> In this instance, static timing would precede dynamic timing because >> the car was so far out of tune that the engine would not run. >> >> In my thinking, static is only used to get the timing onto the right >> map page, enabling the engine to be started and then tuned more >> precisely by other means. >> >> Simon >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Feb 12 13:24:03 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 15:24:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Arm rest References: Here are a few, Fred. The Phase 1 cubbybox armrest used a console with a longer "tail" than the Phase 2 configuration. It looks possible to add the cubbybox to the Phase 2 console with enough room in front for a cup holder. I've considered a project like that myself and even made a model for it but I haven't carried through yet. The cubbybox lid is hinged at the rear. No idea why it was discontinued unless it was just to save a few bob in production. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 1:25 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Arm rest Does anyone have one or a picture or viewable information on the arm rest with the lift up lid that was available on the BJ8 phase I cars. I am interested is seeing what it was, if it was useful and comments on why it was discontinued. It seems to me that many people are adding cup holders and "cubbies" of one sort or another and since my arm rest needs to be redone, it may make some sense to duplicate the original. Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 63 BJ7 deceased _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13907 - Release Date: 02/07/17 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 25366 - CP.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 181641 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 25453 - CP.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 692226 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 25507 - CP.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 106753 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Feb 12 13:30:10 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 12:30:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Cover Gasket References: <000b01d283c5$aed36050$0c7a20f0$@homecall.co.uk> <000001d283d8$54cb2620$fe617260$@verizon.net> <5e398f3a-14ec-2762-b107-2e6197b13282@comcast.net> No ... I just couldn't get a straight shot to the nut with the impact wrench to loosen it. Once it's loose it'll clear the crossmember; you have to lift the engine to get the balancer/pulley off. bs On 2/12/2017 10:00 AM, Tom wrote: > > So, even if you manage to get the nut loose without lifting the > engine, the nut will get stuck on the crossmember as you undo it? > > - Tom > > > On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Bob Spidell > Did this a couple years ago. You'll need to pull the radiator, > detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the > engine mounts (at the bottom). Don't lift at the pan unless you're > able to spread the load considerably. > > It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the > crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts. My engine rebuilder > just pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is > open to the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread > sealant on it. Unless your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to > use some sort of sealant on the gasket. > > The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should > have been torqued to 150lb-ft. You have to lift the engine enough > for this nut, and whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the > crossmember. I used a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the > socket on straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad. > > Bob > > > On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: >> I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8. >> Would someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the >> engine to raise it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. >> Thanks. >> Regards, >> Charlie >> >> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net >> *Sent:* Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM >> *To:* 'Healey List' >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener >> >> Hi, >> >> I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my >> fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if >> I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it >> appropriately against some day in the future when I might get >> round to actually doing it. >> >> So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and >> this prompted me to dig out the article/notes. >> >> First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor >> anywhere near the fuel tank. >> >> Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully >> and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly. >> >> Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two >> terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it >> crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the >> fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender >> unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those >> fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally >> unaffected by the capacitor? >> >> Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the >> fluctuations cannot bypass it? >> >> Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without >> understanding it. Maybe I think too much. >> >> Simon >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net >> http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: >> http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> >> > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: > http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwhlyadv at aol.com Sun Feb 12 15:11:57 2017 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 17:11:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors and he likes the OEW sample in the book. The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that transferable to other brands or how does this work? Jim Werner -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Sun Feb 12 18:44:33 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 19:44:33 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. Keith On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors and he likes the OEW sample in the book. The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that transferable to other brands or how does this work? Jim Werner _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From kags at shaw.ca Sun Feb 12 20:51:58 2017 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 19:51:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <26359655.4890428.1486950273995.JavaMail.root@vznit170064.mailsrvcs.net> Jim: Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages to those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. The OEW sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I have one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW paint, and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the original sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your friend. I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic colour to deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint is ever damaged in the future. Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the explanation of the whole thing - not the colour. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb -----Original Message----- From: llennep at verizon.net Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM To: jwhlyadv at aol.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. Keith On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors and he likes the OEW sample in the book. The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that transferable to other brands or how does this work? Jim Werner _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Feb 12 21:58:46 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 20:58:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <26359655.4890428.1486950273995.JavaMail.root@vznit170064.mailsrvcs.net> <308DA978815F4C6CA8C2643903A78378@KagsLaptop> Those colors are on a lot of pages. What are the page numbers of the modified ones? John Spaur '62 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Earl Kagna Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 7:52 PM To: llennep at verizon.net; jwhlyadv at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide Jim: Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages to those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page... Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From kags at shaw.ca Sun Feb 12 22:45:04 2017 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 21:45:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <26359655.4890428.1486950273995.JavaMail.root@vznit170064.mailsrvcs.net> <308DA978815F4C6CA8C2643903A78378@KagsLaptop> <002701d285b5$dc1341b0$9439c510$@sbcglobal.net> John - the modified page is not numbered. -- Earl -----Original Message----- From: John Spaur Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 8:58 PM To: 'Earl Kagna' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Color Guide Those colors are on a lot of pages. What are the page numbers of the modified ones? John Spaur '62 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Earl Kagna Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 7:52 PM To: llennep at verizon.net; jwhlyadv at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide Jim: Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages to those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page... Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun Feb 12 23:26:40 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (s.hutchings at rogers.com) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 07:26:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Arm rest References: <023e01d2856d$f4381010$dca83030$@rr.com> Funny this should come up.I've just been making a new armrest with cubby and cup holder, but I'm on the road for a few weeks, so I can't send photos at the moment. I also plan to put a USB port for charging phones, iPad, etc. Stephen, BJ8 Sent from my iPad > On Feb 12, 2017, at 9:24 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > Here are a few, Fred. The Phase 1 cubbybox armrest used a console with a longer "tail" than the Phase 2 configuration. It looks possible to add the cubbybox to the Phase 2 console with enough room in front for a cup holder. I've considered a project like that myself and even made a model for it but I haven't carried through yet. The cubbybox lid is hinged at the rear. > No idea why it was discontinued unless it was just to save a few bob in production. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe > Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 1:25 PM > To: healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Arm rest > > Does anyone have one or a picture or viewable information on the arm rest with the lift up lid that was available on the BJ8 phase I cars. I am interested is seeing what it was, if it was useful and comments on why it was discontinued. It seems to me that many people are adding cup holders and "cubbies" of one sort or another and since my arm rest needs to be redone, it may make some sense to duplicate the original. > > Thanks, > > Fred > 66 BJ8 > 63 BJ7 deceased > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13907 - Release Date: 02/07/17 > <25366 - CP.jpg> > <25453 - CP.jpg> > <25507 - CP.jpg> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Mon Feb 13 07:22:32 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 09:22:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com> Wow - sounds like good news overall! Any idea of what would have prevented this? In other words, is there a method that is preferable to the hot tank when doing an engine? Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 7:02 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn't dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM Subject: Off comes the head... Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Mon Feb 13 13:02:49 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 20:02:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update References: <021b01d283fa$187921a0$496b64e0$@roadrunner.com>, <038f01d28604$aadf7c90$009e75b0$@bighealey.org> My 2660 had a major leak from the oil system into the coolant system. Evidently the oil pressure would force oil one way while the engine was running, but their was enough resistance to keep the coolant from flowing the other way when the engine was warm and under pressure. Thus I had oil in the coolant, but no coolant in the oil. Oil contamination can cause sludge to form in the coolant system. On rebuild the machinist discovered that the block had been improperly machined resulting in a 0.012" difference from corner to corner. The oil passage between the block and head is a critical area anyway with some engines having chronic oil and/or coolant leaks to the exterior of the engine at the number plate. I'm sure the poorly machined block didn't help. With a little more care in getting the proper deck dimensions and block and head surface preparation, and using a Denis Welch MLS gasket I hope to cure both of these problems. Not running yet, but we will see. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Al Fuller Sent: Monday, February 13, 2017 2:22:32 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update Wow ? sounds like good news overall! Any idea of what would have prevented this? In other words, is there a method that is preferable to the hot tank when doing an engine? Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Friday, February 10, 2017 7:02 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off comes the head...Update So, the machine shop has gone through my block and low and behold, oil is not seeping from the transverse oil gallery into the water jacket. They pressurized the oil gallery to 70 PSI and it help pressure; nothing bleed into the water jacket. Rather, the shop cooked out a bag full of sludge from the water jacket in the back of the block. Apparently, the regular hot tank dipping before didn?t dislodge all this gunk, and the circulating coolant would dissolve just enough to foul the coolant with the oily mess that sure looked like fresh motor oil mixing with the coolant. Fooled me, for sure. For good measure, we will coat the water jacket with some epoxy, then rebuild the motor with Denis Welch pistons, street cam, bucket lifters, hollow push rods and fly wheel. I am excited to experience how it will run with the new DW parts to go with my DW oil pump I installed years ago. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 10:15 PM Subject: Off comes the head... Finally diving in to diagnose and fix the oil in the coolant. Hoping it's just the head gasket, but since it started after the engine was done 11 years ago, I am suspicious that it's the oil gallery-water jacket wall between number 4 and 5 cylinders seeping high pressure oil into the coolant. Has anyone actually had or known anyone with this problem? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwhlyadv at aol.com Mon Feb 13 14:55:45 2017 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 16:55:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide Thanks Earl, I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems color matching the samples is the way to go. Jim Werner -----Original Message----- From: Earl Kagna To: llennep ; jwhlyadv ; healeys Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide Jim: Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages to those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. The OEW sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I have one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW paint, and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the original sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your friend. I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic colour to deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint is ever damaged in the future. Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the explanation of the whole thing - not the colour. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb -----Original Message----- From: llennep at verizon.net Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM To: jwhlyadv at aol.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. Keith On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors and he likes the OEW sample in the book. The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that transferable to other brands or how does this work? Jim Werner _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Feb 13 16:48:42 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 18:48:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <15a39797344-7c83-6b4c@webprd-m42.mail.aol.com> Jim, There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. I used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the wheels of our Mini some years ago. Just another possibility. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: > Thanks Earl, > > I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems > color matching the samples is the way to go. > > *Jim Werner* > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Earl Kagna > To: llennep ; jwhlyadv ; healeys > > Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > Jim: > > Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book > came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages to > those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. The OEW > sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I have > one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW paint, > and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the original > sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your friend. > > I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto > paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their > 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my > Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint > manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match > for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic colour to > deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint is ever > damaged in the future. > > Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the explanation of > the whole thing - not the colour. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BJ8, BT7 tri-carb > > -----Original Message----- > Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. > > Keith > > > On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: > > I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint > information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors > and he > likes the OEW sample in the book. > > > > > > > The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that > transferable to other brands or how does this work? > > > > > > > > Jim Werner > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From schottc at knology.net Mon Feb 13 17:16:50 2017 From: schottc at knology.net (Charlie Schott) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 18:16:50 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <15a39797344-7c83-6b4c@webprd-m42.mail.aol.com> <58A245DA.3010500@earthlink.net> I was able to cross reference the color to Ditzler #8177. Regards, Charlie -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell Sent: Monday, February 13, 2017 5:48 PM To: Jim Werner ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide Jim, There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. I used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the wheels of our Mini some years ago. Just another possibility. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: > Thanks Earl, > > I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems > color matching the samples is the way to go. > > *Jim Werner* > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Earl Kagna > To: llennep ; jwhlyadv ; healeys > > Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > Jim: > > Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book > came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages > to > those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. The > OEW > sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I have > one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW paint, > and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the original > sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your > friend. > > I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto > paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their > 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my > Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint > manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match > for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic colour to > deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint is > ever > damaged in the future. > > Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the explanation > of > the whole thing - not the colour. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BJ8, BT7 tri-carb > > -----Original Message----- > Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. > > Keith > > > On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: > > I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint > information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors > and he > likes the OEW sample in the book. > > > > > > > The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that > transferable to other brands or how does this work? > > > > > > > > Jim Werner > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Feb 13 17:21:18 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 16:21:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <15a39797344-7c83-6b4c@webprd-m42.mail.aol.com> <58A245DA.3010500@earthlink.net> Wimbeldon White. Big discussion here: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108635-Advice-Needed On 2/13/2017 3:48 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Jim, > > There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. > I used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the > wheels of our Mini some years ago. Just another possibility. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: >> Thanks Earl, >> >> I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems >> color matching the samples is the way to go. >> >> *Jim Werner* >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Earl Kagna >> To: llennep ; jwhlyadv ; healeys >> >> Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide >> >> Jim: >> >> Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the >> book >> came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised >> pages to >> those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. >> The OEW >> sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I >> have >> one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW >> paint, >> and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the >> original >> sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your >> friend. >> >> I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent >> auto >> paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their >> 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my >> Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint >> manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect >> match >> for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic >> colour to >> deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint >> is ever >> damaged in the future. >> >> Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the >> explanation of >> the whole thing - not the colour. >> >> Earl Kagna >> Victoria, B.C. >> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb >> >> -----Original Message----- >> Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide >> >> The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. >> >> Keith >> >> >> On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: >> >> I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint >> information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors >> and he >> likes the OEW sample in the book. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that >> transferable to other brands or how does this work? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Jim Werner >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > From mark at bradakis.com Mon Feb 13 23:45:44 2017 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 23:45:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Selling my 1960 BT7 References: To send mail to healeys at autox.team.net, you send mail to healeys at autox.team.net. mjb. -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: Selling my 1960 BT7 Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2017 21:21:17 -0800 From: Mark Fawcett Listers, I'm considering selling my 1960 BT7. (HBT7 L 862). It's an early 3000 with about 75000 miles ( 20000 or so on a rebuilt engine). Primrose over OEW. Restored by me between 1999-2003. The finish is showing some wear, but it's a driver not a show piece (a 10 footer). This is a car that has been updated in many areas. I thought I'd put this out there to the list before I put it on Ebay or where ever. I'm interested in getting opinions on value. Photos on request. If this is not an appropriate use of the list, I apologize and please disregard. Mark Fawcett British Heritage Certificate (built Apr 1959) Heritage leather interior. Biscuit Lempert wood steering wheel New SU carbs (at time of restoration) Re-cored radiator w/ Texas Cooler fan Toyota 5 speed. transmission. 3:54 differential Alternator (GM) with a Lucas alternator spare K & N air filters Denso gear reduction drive starter 123 Ignition electronic distributor Spin on oil filter Falcon stainless steel exhaust system 72 spoke chrome/stainless steel wheels New tires Bilstein shocks Car cover Tonneau cover Side curtains Lots of receipts Additional spare parts included From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Feb 14 00:02:49 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 07:02:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <15a39797344-7c83-6b4c@webprd-m42.mail.aol.com> <58A245DA.3010500@earthlink.net> I believe the Ford color that is the closest to OEW is Wimbleton White.? It is found on 60s era Ford cars and trucks.Mike MacLean On Monday, February 13, 2017 4:18 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: Jim, There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. I used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the wheels of our Mini some years ago.? Just another possibility. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: > Thanks Earl, > > I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems > color matching the samples is the way to go. > > *Jim Werner* > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Earl Kagna > To: llennep ; jwhlyadv ; healeys > > Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > Jim: > > Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book > came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages to > those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. The OEW > sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I have > one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW paint, > and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the original > sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your friend. > > I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto > paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their > 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my > Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint > manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match > for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic colour to > deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint is ever > damaged in the future. > > Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the explanation of > the whole thing - not the colour. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BJ8, BT7 tri-carb > > -----Original Message----- > Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. > > Keith > > > On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: > > I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint > information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors > and he > likes the OEW sample in the book. > > > > > > > The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that > transferable to other brands or how does this work? > > > > > > > > Jim Werner > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Feb 14 00:29:04 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 07:29:04 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please BJ8 with combined side/indicators/brake lights. NOT the late phase II with the extra lights. So,.the relay. By this I mean the round silver can with 1 wire from P to the dash, 1 from B to the 35 amp feed & 1 from L to T8 on the dreaded 8-way flasher relay box. Now, the LHS indicators work and the RHS don't. Well, they've worked occasionally. My question is this:- If one side works, then the relay works?? There's no way that the relay can function on one side only? It sends current down one wire only, so, if the LHS works, then the relay is doing its job????? Right????? I remain very prepared to be confounded. My logic(?) usually fails when I'm in front of a wiring diagram. In fact, I would be thrilled just to be able to fix the problem with a cheap part. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Feb 14 00:34:56 2017 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 07:34:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <15a39797344-7c83-6b4c@webprd-m42.mail.aol.com> <58A245DA.3010500@earthlink.net> For me the most important thing to remember is that it is virtually impossible to get the 'right' colour. Remember that the paints themselves are now completely different chemically, plus the same paint codes mixed using different paint manufacturers will produce slightly different results. Comparing to 'original' paint samples is also fraught with difficulty as old paints were unstable and faded quicker. I think we all have a good idea of what the basic 8 or nine colours should look like. Look around and find a paint mix that you like which is close to one of the original colours and go with that. I don't think I have ever seen two Healey Blue cars that are actually the same colour. Derek On Mon, Feb 13, 2017 at 11:48 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Jim, > > There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. I > used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the wheels of > our Mini some years ago. Just another possibility. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: > >> Thanks Earl, >> >> I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems >> color matching the samples is the way to go. >> >> *Jim Werner* >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Earl Kagna >> To: llennep ; jwhlyadv ; healeys >> >> Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide >> >> Jim: >> >> Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book >> came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages >> to >> those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. The >> OEW >> sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I have >> one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW paint, >> and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the original >> sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your >> friend. >> >> I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto >> paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their >> 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my >> Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint >> manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match >> for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic colour to >> deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint is >> ever >> damaged in the future. >> >> Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the explanation >> of >> the whole thing - not the colour. >> >> Earl Kagna >> Victoria, B.C. >> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb >> >> -----Original Message----- >> Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide >> >> The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. >> >> Keith >> >> >> On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: >> >> I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint >> information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors >> and he >> likes the OEW sample in the book. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that >> transferable to other brands or how does this work? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Jim Werner >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Tue Feb 14 02:29:16 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 09:29:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please References: <001d01d28694$05999a00$10ccce00$@homecall.co.uk> Hang on there Simon... we are talking about a flasher unit... your little round can with 3 terminals...... and the relay... with 8 terminals. So, in your case the flasher unit is working fine however, there seems to be a problem with the relay because when LHS is called for the contacts for both the front and rear bulbs close but, for the other side probably only one pair of contacts are closing. This can be determined by observing which, i.e. front or rear, bulb is lighting. The "relay" probably needs adjustment. This is a littie like brain surgery... takes a little practice. Best of luck. Michael S BN1 #174 From: Simon Lachlan Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 9:11 PM Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please To: Healey List Cc: Pierre Henri Claret BJ8 with combined side/indicators/brake lights. NOT the late phase II with the extra lights. So,?the relay. By this I mean the round silver can with 1 wire from P to the dash, 1 from B to the 35 amp feed & 1 from L to T8 on the dreaded 8-way flasher relay box. Now, the LHS indicators work and the RHS don?t. Well, they?ve worked occasionally. My question is this:- If one side works, then the relay works?? There?s no way that the relay can function on one side only? It sends current down one wire only, so, if the LHS works, then the relay is doing its job????? Right????? ? I remain very prepared to be confounded. My logic(?) usually fails when I?m in front of a wiring diagram. In fact, I would be thrilled just to be able to fix the problem with a cheap part. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Feb 14 02:30:31 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 09:30:31 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <15a39797344-7c83-6b4c@webprd-m42.mail.aol.com> <58A245DA.3010500@earthlink.net> Agreed absolutely. Ditto for Colorado Red. Shades of orange in some, less in others??etcetc. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Derek Job Sent: 14 February 2017 07:35 To: Bob Haskell Cc: Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide For me the most important thing to remember is that it is virtually impossible to get the 'right' colour. Remember that the paints themselves are now completely different chemically, plus the same paint codes mixed using different paint manufacturers will produce slightly different results. Comparing to 'original' paint samples is also fraught with difficulty as old paints were unstable and faded quicker. I think we all have a good idea of what the basic 8 or nine colours should look like. Look around and find a paint mix that you like which is close to one of the original colours and go with that. I don't think I have ever seen two Healey Blue cars that are actually the same colour. Derek Jim, There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. I used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the wheels of our Mini some years ago. Just another possibility. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: Thanks Earl, I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems color matching the samples is the way to go. *Jim Werner* -----Original Message----- Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide Jim: Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the book came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised pages to those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. The OEW sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I have one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW paint, and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the original sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your friend. I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic colour to deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint is ever damaged in the future. Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the explanation of the whole thing - not the colour. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb -----Original Message----- Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. Keith On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors and he likes the OEW sample in the book. The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that transferable to other brands or how does this work? Jim Werner _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Feb 14 03:39:16 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 05:39:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide References: <15a39797344-7c83-6b4c@webprd-m42.mail.aol.com> <58A245DA.3010500@earthlink.net> <383491938.3999617.1487055769349@mail.yahoo.com> Bob and Michael, Thanks for correcting my faulty memory. I remembered that it was an English name and I ran across Oxford White in a brief Google search. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 02/14/2017 02:02 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I believe the Ford color that is the closest to OEW is Wimbleton White. > It is found on 60s era Ford cars and trucks. > Mike MacLean > > > On Monday, February 13, 2017 4:18 PM, Bob Haskell > wrote: > > > Jim, > > There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. > I used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the wheels > of our Mini some years ago. Just another possibility. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: > > Thanks Earl, > > > > I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems > > color matching the samples is the way to go. > > > > *Jim Werner* > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > > > Jim: > > > > Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the > book > > came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised > pages to > > those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. > The OEW > > sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I > have > > one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW > paint, > > and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the > original > > sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your > friend. > > > > I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent auto > > paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their > > 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my > > Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint > > manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect match > > for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic > colour to > > deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint > is ever > > damaged in the future. > > > > Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the > explanation of > > the whole thing - not the colour. > > > > Earl Kagna > > Victoria, B.C. > > BJ8, BT7 tri-carb > > > > -----Original Message----- > > Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide > > > > The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. > > > > Keith > > > > > > On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: > > > > I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint > > information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors > > and he > > likes the OEW sample in the book. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that > > transferable to other brands or how does this work? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Jim Werner > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Tue Feb 14 06:59:54 2017 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 13:59:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please References: <001d01d28694$05999a00$10ccce00$@homecall.co.uk> This is a recreation of the BT7 wiring diagram in ladder logic format (there's one for positive ground and one for negative). The only difference is the reversing of the coil connections to maintain the same direction of current to the spark plugs. It is not accurate for a BJ8, but is accurate with respect to the "8-way flasher box relay", so maybe it can help you sort out the problem. Edward J. O'Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O'Neal Associates, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 phone: (239) 245-8728 cell: (239) 410-6174 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 2:29 AM To: 'Healey List' Cc: Pierre Henri Claret Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please BJ8 with combined side/indicators/brake lights. NOT the late phase II with the extra lights. So,...the relay. By this I mean the round silver can with 1 wire from P to the dash, 1 from B to the 35 amp feed & 1 from L to T8 on the dreaded 8-way flasher relay box. Now, the LHS indicators work and the RHS don't. Well, they've worked occasionally. My question is this:- If one side works, then the relay works?? There's no way that the relay can function on one side only? It sends current down one wire only, so, if the LHS works, then the relay is doing its job????? Right????? I remain very prepared to be confounded. My logic(?) usually fails when I'm in front of a wiring diagram. In fact, I would be thrilled just to be able to fix the problem with a cheap part. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BN6 BN7 BT7 & BJ7 wiring ladder logic diagram.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 45927 bytes Desc: BN6 BN7 BT7 & BJ7 wiring ladder logic diagram.pdf URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BN6 BN7 BT7 & BJ7 wiring ladder logic diagram (neg ground).pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 48556 bytes Desc: BN6 BN7 BT7 & BJ7 wiring ladder logic diagram (neg ground).pdf URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Feb 14 08:50:30 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 07:50:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please References: <001d01d28694$05999a00$10ccce00$@homecall.co.uk> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.50aa8ab5-807f-4fe4-b129-67412dd3b546@mail.outlook.com> Before you tear into the relay box, check that the proper terminal on the box is getting voltage when the RH turn indicator is selected. On my BN2, this is terminal #4, and I wouldn't be surprised if it's not the same as your BJ8 (but can't verify). The relay is sealed with spot welds, which will have to be drilled out if you need to do brain surgery. The trafficators have a sliding 'switch'--really, just a piece of brass that gets moved over a brass terminal when an indicator side is selected--and if this gets out of whack you will get the same result. I got into mine to, ahem, 'improve' it, messed up this 'switch' and got one side to work and not the other. Bob On 2/14/2017 1:29 AM, michael.salter at gmail.com wrote: > > Hang on there Simon... we are talking about a flasher unit... your > little round can with 3 terminals...... and the relay... with 8 > terminals. > So, in your case the flasher unit is working fine however, there seems > to be a problem with the relay because when LHS is called for the > contacts for both the front and rear bulbs close but, for the other > side probably only one pair of contacts are closing. > This can be determined by observing which, i.e. front or rear, bulb is > lighting. > The "relay" probably needs adjustment. > This is a littie like brain surgery... takes a little practice. > Best of luck. > Michael S > BN1 #174 > > From: Simon Lachlan > Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 9:11 PM > Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please > To: Healey List > Cc: Pierre Henri Claret > > BJ8 with combined side/indicators/brake lights. NOT the late phase II > with the extra lights. > > So,?the relay. By this I mean the round silver can with 1 wire from P > to the dash, 1 from B to the 35 amp feed & 1 from L to T8 on the > dreaded 8-way flasher relay box. > > Now, the LHS indicators work and the RHS don?t. Well, they?ve worked > occasionally. My question is this:- > > If one side works, then the relay works?? There?s no way that the > relay can function on one side only? It sends current down one wire > only, so, if the LHS works, then the relay is doing its job????? > Right????? > > I remain very prepared to be confounded. My logic(?) usually fails > when I?m in front of a wiring diagram. In fact, I would be thrilled > just to be able to fix the problem with a cheap part. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Feb 14 09:50:38 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 16:50:38 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts Does anyone know if the rocker cover nuts from an A series Mini would fit a 3000? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.fawcett at cox.net Tue Feb 14 09:54:03 2017 From: m.fawcett at cox.net (Mark Fawcett) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 08:54:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Selling my 1960 BT7 Listers, I'm considering selling my 1960 BT7. (HBT7 L 862). It's an early 3000 with about 75000 miles ( 20000 or so on a rebuilt engine). Primrose over OEW. Restored by me between 1999-2003. The finish is showing some wear, but it's a driver not a show piece (a 10 footer). This is a car that has been updated in many areas. I thought I'd put this out there to the list before I put it on Ebay or where ever. I'm interested in getting opinions on value. Photos on request. If this is not an appropriate use of the list, I apologize and please disregard. Mark Fawcett British Heritage Certificate (built Apr 1959) Heritage leather interior. Biscuit Lempert wood steering wheel New SU carbs (at time of restoration) Re-cored radiator w/ Texas Cooler fan Toyota 5 speed. transmission. 3:54 differential Alternator (GM) with a Lucas alternator spare K & N air filters Denso gear reduction drive starter 123 Ignition electronic distributor Spin on oil filter Falcon stainless steel exhaust system 72 spoke chrome/stainless steel wheels New tires Bilstein shocks Car cover Tonneau cover Side curtains Lots of receipts Additional spare parts included -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Feb 14 13:06:16 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 15:06:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts References: <008901d286e2$78a202a0$69e607e0$@homecall.co.uk> If the A-series Mini uses the same engine as the 1275 MG Midget the answer is NO. The studs for the 1275 are much smaller than those for the 3000. As it happens, I'm out here in the garage next to the BJ8 taking apart my '73 Midget for a total repaint so it was easy to check that. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 11:51 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts Does anyone know if the rocker cover nuts from an A series Mini would fit a 3000? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Feb 14 15:00:32 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 14:00:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Selling my 1960 BT7 References: Where you located? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Feb 14, 2017 at 8:54 AM, Mark Fawcett wrote: > Listers, > > I'm considering selling my 1960 BT7. (HBT7 L 862). It's an early 3000 with > about 75000 miles ( 20000 or so on a rebuilt engine). Primrose over OEW. > Restored by me between 1999-2003. The finish is showing some wear, but it's > a driver not a show piece (a 10 footer). This is a car that has been > updated in many areas. I thought I'd put this out there to the list before > I put it on Ebay or where ever. I'm interested in getting opinions on > value. Photos on request. If this is not an appropriate use of the list, I > apologize and please disregard. > > Mark Fawcett > > > British Heritage Certificate (built Apr 1959) > > Heritage leather interior. Biscuit > > Lempert wood steering wheel > > New SU carbs (at time of restoration) > > Re-cored radiator w/ Texas Cooler fan > > Toyota 5 speed. transmission. > > 3:54 differential > > Alternator (GM) with a Lucas alternator spare > > K & N air filters > > Denso gear reduction drive starter > > 123 Ignition electronic distributor > > Spin on oil filter > > Falcon stainless steel exhaust system > > 72 spoke chrome/stainless steel wheels > > New tires > > Bilstein shocks > > Car cover > > Tonneau cover > > Side curtains > > Lots of receipts > > Additional spare parts included > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwhlyadv at aol.com Tue Feb 14 16:17:37 2017 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 18:17:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Color Guide Oddly enough the poster is from Louisville Ky! Jim Werner Louisville, KY -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys Sent: Mon, Feb 13, 2017 8:36 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide Wimbeldon White. Big discussion here: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108635-Advice-Needed On 2/13/2017 3:48 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Jim, > > There's also a Ford color (oxford white?) that's a close match to OEW. > I used plasti-kote truck & sport utility 1589 white to paint the > wheels of our Mini some years ago. Just another possibility. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 02/13/2017 04:55 PM, Jim Werner wrote: >> Thanks Earl, >> >> I have large half page samples in my book of the updated OEW. It seems >> color matching the samples is the way to go. >> >> *Jim Werner* >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Earl Kagna >> To: llennep ; jwhlyadv ; healeys >> >> Sent: Sun, Feb 12, 2017 10:51 pm >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide >> >> Jim: >> >> Are you aware that Don Pikovnik rematched 2 colours shortly after the >> book >> came out - Primrose yellow, and Old English White. He sent revised >> pages to >> those he could track down - I have the book, and the modified page. >> The OEW >> sample is not that much different, but it is definitely noticeable. I >> have >> one of the original BJ8 hardtops still painted in it's original OEW >> paint, >> and the modified sample is pretty much a perfect match, while the >> original >> sample in the book is a tad off. It might make a difference to your >> friend. >> >> I would think that with modern paint systems technology, a competent >> auto >> paint shop would be able to match a colour sample accurately with their >> 'cameras' - with a white, it shouldn't be a problem. When I painted my >> Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 a while ago, we elected to go with the paint >> manufacturers formula for the colour. Not sure that it is a perfect >> match >> for the original colour, but seeing as how it's a tough metallic >> colour to >> deal with, at least there's a better chance of a match if the paint >> is ever >> damaged in the future. >> >> Let me know if you need a scan of the rematch card - for the >> explanation of >> the whole thing - not the colour. >> >> Earl Kagna >> Victoria, B.C. >> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb >> >> -----Original Message----- >> Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:44 PM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Color Guide >> >> The code is WT3 if I am not mistaken. That was used on my BJ8. >> >> Keith >> >> >> On 02/12/17, Jim Werner wrote: >> >> I have a friend who wants to paint his car and is looking for paint >> information. I have a copy of Don Pikovnik's Guide to Historic Colors >> and he >> likes the OEW sample in the book. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> The book gives a ICI reference number so what do we do now? Is that >> transferable to other brands or how does this work? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Jim Werner >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue Feb 14 17:03:27 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2017 14:03:27 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts References: <008901d286e2$78a202a0$69e607e0$@homecall.co.uk> No, they are different. Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Tue, Feb 14, 2017 at 6:50 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > Does anyone know if the rocker cover nuts from an A series Mini would fit > a 3000? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Feb 14 18:35:20 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 12:35:20 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts References: <008901d286e2$78a202a0$69e607e0$@homecall.co.uk> No, but the oil filler cap fits. So I f you want a chrome one etc. look for A or B series. Chris Sent from my iPhone > On 15 Feb. 2017, at 3:50 am, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Does anyone know if the rocker cover nuts from an A series Mini would fit a 3000? > Thanks, > Simon > _______________________________________________ > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Feb 14 23:49:44 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 06:49:44 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts References: <008901d286e2$78a202a0$69e607e0$@homecall.co.uk> Thanks for the replies re the rocker cover nuts. That?s a unanimous no! Simon From: HealeyRick [mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com] Sent: 15 February 2017 00:03 To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts No, they are different. Happy Healeying, Rick Neville Does anyone know if the rocker cover nuts from an A series Mini would fit a 3000? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Feb 15 09:12:32 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 11:12:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring question After removing the CAB and carbs for rebuilding I noticed an unconnected wire and an open terminal on the electrical lighting/flasher box. The wire is purple/green and the terminal is the topmost one on the rear side of the box--there is no no wire going to this terminal. The wire comes out of a small sub-harness along with a yellow/brown and green/yellow wire, both of which are connected to terminals on the rear side of the box. The only significant change from stock wiring is that I have electrified the rear reflector pods and use them for turn flashers instead of having the one light handling side/brake/turn functions, but I cannot see that this correlates with having an open, disconnected wire at the control box end. The screw to the open terminal was loose, leading me to believe that the wire in question was connected to it, but since all of my flashers, side and brake lights are functional I thought I should try to find out the wire's function before reconnecting it. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Wed Feb 15 13:54:13 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2017 06:54:13 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring question References: ...sure it's purple with green (as opposed to green with purple?) the British Standard doesn't list a function for the former. The latter is for stop lamps http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/colourcodes.htm Cheers Peter From: Michael Oritt Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2017 2:12 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Wiring question After removing the CAB and carbs for rebuilding I noticed an unconnected wire and an open terminal on the electrical lighting/flasher box. The wire is purple/green and the terminal is the topmost one on the rear side of the box--there is no no wire going to this terminal. The wire comes out of a small sub-harness along with a yellow/brown and green/yellow wire, both of which are connected to terminals on the rear side of the box. The only significant change from stock wiring is that I have electrified the rear reflector pods and use them for turn flashers instead of having the one light handling side/brake/turn functions, but I cannot see that this correlates with having an open, disconnected wire at the control box end. The screw to the open terminal was loose, leading me to believe that the wire in question was connected to it, but since all of my flashers, side and brake lights are functional I thought I should try to find out the wire's function before reconnecting it. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Wed Feb 15 14:22:36 2017 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 16:22:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rear end clunk Hi list , I have a 67 BJ-8 , frame off restoration completed 5 years ago with maybe 2,000 miles sense . New u joints , new rear hubs , all shock mounts tight . The other day I started to hear a clunk coming from the rear ended , sort of a noise when the u joints are needing replacing. Mine are new. I jacked up the rear end . Grabbed the drive shaft and was able to turn it , maybe 1/2 inch twist either way , sounds like clunk noise was coming from the rear end , any thoughts ? Thanks Don Sent from my iPad From llennep at verizon.net Wed Feb 15 14:24:53 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 15:24:53 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts I hate anything being called unanimous - just seems un-American. So I am going to register a "yes". :) On 02/15/17, Simon Lachlan wrote: Thanks for the replies re the rocker cover nuts. That?s a unanimous no! Simon From: HealeyRick [mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com] Sent: 15 February 2017 00:03 To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts No, they are different. Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Tue, Feb 14, 2017 at 6:50 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: Does anyone know if the rocker cover nuts from an A series Mini would fit a 3000? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From healeyrik at gmail.com Wed Feb 15 15:34:21 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2017 12:34:21 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts References: <1125.4984086.1487193893447.JavaMail.root@vznit170184.mailsrvcs.net> "Alternate facts" :) On Wed, Feb 15, 2017 at 11:24 AM, wrote: > I hate anything being called unanimous - just seems un-American. So I am > going to register a "yes". > > :) > > > On 02/15/17, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > > > > Thanks for the replies re the rocker cover nuts. That?s a unanimous no! > > Simon > > From: HealeyRick [mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com] > Sent: 15 February 2017 00:03 > To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healey List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rocker cover nuts > > > > > No, they are different. > > > > > > Happy Healeying, > > > > > > Rick Neville > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Feb 14, 2017 at 6:50 AM, Simon Lachlan < > simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote: > > > Does anyone know if the rocker cover nuts from an A series Mini would fit > a 3000? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep@ > verizon.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Feb 16 07:33:26 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2017 15:33:26 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Rear end clunk References: <377B2B59-C44E-4359-ACD1-82F61F1D2E4A@yahoo.com> Make sure the U-joints are OK. Even new ones can fail as not always the correct joints are supplied/fitted. Sometimes the spider is skinnier than the original spec ones with the external diameter of the cup being correct which can lead to rapid wear. May be the joints were not greased properly when installed. If there is 1/2" twist either way and the UV-joints OK, this is to much and adjustment/repair of the differential/rear axle is at hand. Also check wear on the hub splines although this would not really be noticed by turning the prop shaft. Kees Oudesluijs Op 15-2-2017 om 22:22 schreef Don Day: > Hi list , > I have a 67 BJ-8 , frame off restoration completed 5 years ago with maybe 2,000 miles sense . New u joints , new rear hubs , all shock mounts tight . The other day I started to hear a clunk coming from the rear ended , sort of a noise when the u joints are needing replacing. Mine are new. I jacked up the rear end . Grabbed the drive shaft and was able to turn it , maybe 1/2 inch twist either way , sounds like clunk noise was coming from the rear end , any thoughts ? > Thanks Don > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > From 55healey at comcast.net Thu Feb 16 14:35:54 2017 From: 55healey at comcast.net (ROBERT A WESTCOTT) Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2017 13:35:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline RACE20-50 Just wanted to forward the information that O?Reilly Auto Parts ( in WA at least ) has the Valvoline RACE 20-50 oil on sale for $4.99 each through next Wednesday. I just cleaned my local store out ( but they will restock ). Rob From dwflagg at juno.com Fri Feb 17 05:42:59 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 12:42:59 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Keith Taylor Hacked? Kieth, Received a very suspicious post, allegedly from you, with just a link. There were others from the list included. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ The Site All Women Just Love, See Why tophatter.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/58a6efe423bb96fe353aest03duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Fri Feb 17 08:09:08 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 09:09:08 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Healeys] Keith Taylor Hacked? Keith Taylor? Not me. On 02/17/17, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: Kieth, Received a very suspicious post, allegedly from you, with just a link. There were others from the list included. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ The Site All Women Just Love, See Why tophatter.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/58a6efe423bb96fe353aest03duc _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From r.alkins001 at comcast.net Fri Feb 17 08:42:36 2017 From: r.alkins001 at comcast.net (Randy) Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 15:42:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Keith Taylor Hacked? References: <30001792.5021155.1487344148393.JavaMail.root@vznit170080.mailsrvcs.net> I got the original message form Doug about some sort of request a couple days ago. ----- Original Message ----- From: llennep at verizon.net To: dwflagg at juno.com, healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 10:09:08 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Keith Taylor Hacked? Keith Taylor? Not me. On 02/17/17, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: Kieth, Received a very suspicious post, allegedly from you, with just a link. There were others from the list included. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ The Site All Women Just Love, See Why tophatter.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/58a6efe423bb96fe353aest03duc _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbt71 at gmail.com Sat Feb 18 11:24:50 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 11:24:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? Hi All, Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for over 30 years and are really sad looking. I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get them out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez (in BOLD) to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say it can be done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and careful? Cheers and Thanks, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170218_103713394_HDR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 54014 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Feb 18 11:59:12 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 10:59:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: I split mine and put them back together without any issues. There is a special rubber washer inside. I believe BCS has them. People debate about replacing the bolts. Some say they stretch others say they don?t. I don?t think I replaced my caliper bolts. John Spaur ?62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2017 10:25 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? Hi All, Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for over 30 years and are really sad looking. I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get them out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez (in BOLD) to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say it can be done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and careful? Cheers and Thanks, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 54014 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Feb 18 12:05:41 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 11:05:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: There is a internal seal that is the issue. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, bu tit was a hard to source and place square seal between the halves. Soak it in anti-seize for quite a while before trying to get the pistons out. take out the bleed screw. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Sat, Feb 18, 2017 at 10:24 AM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Hi All, > Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for > over 30 years and are really sad looking. > I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get them > out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez (in BOLD) > to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say it can be > done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and careful? > Cheers and Thanks, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170218_103713394_HDR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 54014 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Feb 18 12:14:47 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 20:14:47 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: It can be done but you need the special seal washers and ideally new bolts and torque them to the set values. Better is to get new or properly rebuild ones if you are not accustomed rebuilding callipers. They are relatively cheap. Kees Oudesluijs Op 18-2-2017 om 19:24 schreef Mike Tobin: > Hi All, > Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting > for over 30 years and are really sad looking. > I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get > them out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez > (in BOLD) to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks > say it can be done. Anything I have to watch for other than being > clean and careful? > Cheers and Thanks, > Mike Tobin > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Feb 18 12:32:53 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 14:32:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: Mike, I contacted TRW a few years ago, who owned Lucas/Girling at the time, and got the same answer - don't split the calipers. I'm guessing that the bolts are considered single use. I split my calipers when I rebuilt them. I used chassis grease to get the pistons out. The metal tube of the small hand-held grease gun I have has the same threads as the bleeder screw. If only one piston moves you might have to clamp it so more force can be applied to the other. I made a block to bolt on to one half that I could screw the grease gun into if I couldn't get both pistons out before splitting the caliper. British Car Specialists has a replacement for the square o-ring. I don't know who carries the bolts. I was going to use some AN bolts (Earls), but the threads weren't long enough. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 02/18/2017 01:24 PM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Hi All, > Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for > over 30 years and are really sad looking. > I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get > them out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez > (in BOLD) to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say > it can be done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and > careful? > Cheers and Thanks, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From dcorning at ford.com Sat Feb 18 13:22:45 2017 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 20:22:45 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Smith Gauges - Sceliphrons Love Them! I wanted to clean my speedometer before installing it in the dash. Removing the bezel and glass, I carefully wiped the face of the gauge and noticed the needle was stuck. Thinking I'll have to send it somewhere and get it fixed anyway, I decided to disassemble it the rest of the way to look inside. I wasn't expecting to find what I saw! Mud daubers had found a cozy home inside the housing while in storage on my garage shelf. I carefully removed the all the hardened mud bit by bit, freed the needle and amazingly, it works (using a drill on the speedo cable). I took the photo after cleaning the speedo but before working on the tachometer. If they both work properly in the car I'll be Smiths biggest fan! Best, Dan Corning (615) 579-1032 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Smiths Gauges 2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 236229 bytes Desc: Smiths Gauges 2.JPG URL: From editorgary at aol.com Sat Feb 18 13:49:36 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 15:49:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Splitting the calipers References: If my memory serves ? the issue with splitting the brake calipers is that the rubber seal between the two halves around the brake fluid passageway is SQUARE in cross-section, rather than round. Therefore you must have exactly the right replacement seal -- I know from experience during the very last stage of my restoration. Fortunately I was running silicone rather than standard petroleum-based brake fluid and had installed a new e-brake cable before I took the car out for its first test run, so when the bad seal burst upon the first hard application of the brakes and sprayed fluid all over the fender while leaving me without brakes, I was able to bring the car to a stop with the e-brake, get home safely and wipe the fluid off the fender with no damage. So, do not split the calipers until you have the correct replacement seals in hand, and then do it very carefully. And seriously consider using silicone fluid in any high-quality restoration. G. Gary Anderson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Sat Feb 18 15:43:20 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 23:43:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: Well, if it isn't broke, don't fix it. The only thing there is inside the caliper is a seal. If it doesn't leak, fine, don't touch it. Do the rest of the caliper by all means, but leave that seal where it is. Best, Per Den 2017-02-18 kl. 19:24, skrev Mike Tobin: > Hi All, > Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for > over 30 years and are really sad looking. > I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get > them out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez > (in BOLD) to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say > it can be done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and > careful? > Cheers and Thanks, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per at schoerner.se > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Feb 18 17:28:59 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 16:28:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Smith Gauges - Sceliphrons Love Them! References: <26d97da3634049b5ab5d1f39ac137e33@nafcmb26.exchange.ford.com> Great photo. Good jod detective Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Feb 18, 2017 2:46 PM, "Corning, Dan (D.C.)" wrote: > I wanted to clean my speedometer before installing it in the dash. > Removing the bezel and glass, I carefully wiped the face of the gauge and > noticed the needle was stuck. Thinking I?ll have to send it somewhere and > get it fixed anyway, I decided to disassemble it the rest of the way to > look inside. I wasn?t expecting to find what I saw! > > > > Mud daubers had found a cozy home inside the housing while in storage on > my garage shelf. I carefully removed the all the hardened mud bit by bit, > freed the needle and amazingly, it works (using a drill on the speedo > cable). I took the photo after cleaning the speedo but before working on > the tachometer. If they both work properly in the car I?ll be Smiths > biggest fan! > > > > Best, > > > Dan Corning > (615) 579-1032 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sat Feb 18 19:33:29 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 18:33:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: Splitting the calipers and reusing the bolts are not a problem. The rear disc brake conversion for big Healeys uses Jaguar rear calipers, Girling, that must be split in order to remove the rotor. They have an external brake pipe that allows fluid to pass between the halves. I have had this conversion on my race Healey for 30 years and used the bolts over and over again with no issues. I'm sure that Jaguar owners have had no problems either with using the old bolts. Replacing them with new bolts makes about as much sense as using new lug nuts every time you change a tire. Now that you can buy the square section o-ring that makes the seal between the halves of the Girling calipers for Healeys, there is no problem with any leakage by splitting the calipers. Good luck getting those pistons out. I believe the best way is to use the brake system of your Healey. Plumb those calipers in and pump away. I bought a pair of calipers on Ebay awhile back from a guy that tried to use grease to get the pucks out. He was unsuccessful and created a disgusting mess for me when I began to get the pucks out. On Sat, Feb 18, 2017 at 10:24 AM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Hi All, > Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for > over 30 years and are really sad looking. > I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get them > out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez (in BOLD) > to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say it can be > done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and careful? > Cheers and Thanks, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170218_103713394_HDR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 54014 bytes Desc: not available URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Sat Feb 18 20:04:48 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (Austin Healeys List) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 16:04:48 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: Small seal ring is Moss part # 583-820 Overhaul kits available on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/250467763580 If changing to silicone fluid you really have to split them to clean out the gunge in the channel. The torque figures for the bolts are available online. From ahbt71 at gmail.com Sat Feb 18 20:41:26 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 20:41:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: Thanks for all the feedback. I've done scuzzy calipers before and used the car's hydraulic pressure to remove the pistons. Not an option this time. The calipers are the next step in a frame-up restoration. Got the rebuilt shocks from Worldwide this week and the kingpins should be back from Nock any day. You can see the pistons are pretty far out - the pads were almost gone. I used the biggest pry I have and could not get the pistons to move inward, so I didn't see how I was going to get them out. With the assurance of a faction in the group I split a caliper and was able to get the pistons to move inward using my bench vice (nothing l ike getting the force applied in the right direction). Tomorrow I'll take Bob Haskell's advice and use pressure from a grease gun to push them out. Gotta buy a new one - a box of tools didn't make it when we moved this past summer (I moved the Healey (in pieces) myself so everything made it). Yeah, I coulda just bought rebuilds, but I decided to do as much a possible myself. It's been a struggle at times but there's real satisfaction being able to look at it and sya "I did that!". Cheers, Mike Tobin Townsend The calipers' home awaits (and I welded in that shock mount myself dammit!). . On Sat, Feb 18, 2017 at 11:24 AM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Hi All, > Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for > over 30 years and are really sad looking. > I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get them > out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez (in BOLD) > to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say it can be > done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and careful? > Cheers and Thanks, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170218_203155964.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 37649 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170218_103713394_HDR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 54014 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rft2 at aol.com Sun Feb 19 10:21:40 2017 From: rft2 at aol.com (rft2 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 12:21:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? Rebuilt my calipers this past fall. Found a video on YouTube to be very helpful, not exactly same calipers, but still worth watching. On subject line type Maserati Brake Caliper Tear Down Good luck Mal Hickok -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell To: Mike Tobin ; healeys Sent: Sat, Feb 18, 2017 4:54 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? Mike, I contacted TRW a few years ago, who owned Lucas/Girling at the time, and got the same answer - don't split the calipers. I'm guessing that the bolts are considered single use. I split my calipers when I rebuilt them. I used chassis grease to get the pistons out. The metal tube of the small hand-held grease gun I have has the same threads as the bleeder screw. If only one piston moves you might have to clamp it so more force can be applied to the other. I made a block to bolt on to one half that I could screw the grease gun into if I couldn't get both pistons out before splitting the caliper. British Car Specialists has a replacement for the square o-ring. I don't know who carries the bolts. I was going to use some AN bolts (Earls), but the threads weren't long enough. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 02/18/2017 01:24 PM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Hi All, > Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for > over 30 years and are really sad looking. > I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get > them out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez > (in BOLD) to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say > it can be done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and > careful? > Cheers and Thanks, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbt71 at gmail.com Sun Feb 19 13:40:39 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 13:40:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: <58A8A165.40100@earthlink.net> <15a5764ae36-6b2f-172ee@webprd-a40.mail.aol.com> Success. Familiar territory from here. Thanks Again for all the help. Now waiting on the parts. Guess I can start on the rear end. Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana Before and After -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170219_124655372_HDR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 59804 bytes Desc: not available URL: From editorgary at aol.com Sun Feb 19 13:46:01 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 15:46:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Calipers References: Best suggestion I've seen in today's posts is to have the brake calipers professionally rebuilt rather than attempting to do it yourself. This is one of those examples of a cheap repair with very expensive consequences if done baddy -- If you send in the old calipers, it can't be that expensive since the parts are cheap. I think White Post Restorations rebuilds calipers. G. Gary Anderson Austin-Healey Concours Registry ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 20:14:47 +0100 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? It can be done but you need the special seal washers and ideally new bolts and torque them to the set values. Better is to get new or properly rebuild ones if you are not accustomed rebuilding callipers. They are relatively cheap. Kees Oudesluijs Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 56 *************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Feb 19 14:20:00 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 13:20:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: <58A8A165.40100@earthlink.net> <15a5764ae36-6b2f-172ee@webprd-a40.mail.aol.com> ? Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Feb 19, 2017 1:11 PM, "Mike Tobin" wrote: > Success. Familiar territory from here. > Thanks Again for all the help. > Now waiting on the parts. Guess I can start on the rear end. > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > Before and After > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20170219_124655372_HDR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 59804 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Feb 19 16:09:56 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 18:09:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley ?I was at the Ellerslie Intermarque Concours ?in Auckland last weekend and had the opportunity to take a close look at a "1931 Blower Bentley". There is a part of the engine that I cannot figure out and was wondering if anyone on the list who can shed some light on this. [image: Inline image 1] Where the carburetors would be mounted on a non supercharged engine there are these very complicated devices. [image: Inline image 2] I would guess that they are some sort of relief valve but, as the carbs are on the blower inlet I don't think that is very likely. Anyone know? Michael S BN1 #174 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1038272 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1868880 bytes Desc: not available URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Feb 19 17:18:44 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 11:18:44 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley References: Hello Mike I heard that it was a good event. As you say the twin SU carburettors are hanging off the front mounted blower and those things are two blow-off valves that protect the supercharger from the effects of backfiring. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Monday, 20 February 2017 10:10 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley ?I was at the Ellerslie Intermarque Concours ?in Auckland last weekend and had the opportunity to take a close look at a "1931 Blower Bentley". There is a part of the engine that I cannot figure out and was wondering if anyone on the list who can shed some light on this. Inline image 1 Where the carburetors would be mounted on a non supercharged engine there are these very complicated devices. Inline image 2 I would guess that they are some sort of relief valve but, as the carbs are on the blower inlet I don't think that is very likely. Anyone know? Michael S BN1 #174 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 28247 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 31358 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Sun Feb 19 18:09:26 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 01:09:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley References: <20170220010329.4264020.43812.7050@gmail.com> "To protect the blower from backfires? Just a WAG" Sounds reasonable...BUT... I wouldn't be too happy about an air/fuel mixture blowing out there, particularly with an uninsulated spark plug wire next to it..... YIKES!!! There isn't even a spark gauze. What would Health and Safety have to say about that. Michael S From: Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Monday, February 20, 2:03 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley To: Michael Salter To protect the blower from backfires? Just a WAG -Roland Sent?from?my?BlackBerry?10?smartphone. From: Michael Salter Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2017 3:36 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley ?I was at the Ellerslie Intermarque Concours ?in Auckland last weekend and had the opportunity to take a close look at a "1931 Blower Bentley". There is a part of the engine that I cannot figure out and was wondering if anyone on the list who can shed some light on this. Where the carburetors would be mounted on a non supercharged engine there are these very complicated devices. I would guess that they are some sort of relief valve but, as the carbs are on the blower inlet I don't think that is very likely. Anyone know? Michael S BN1 #174 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sun Feb 19 22:55:32 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 21:55:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes I'm interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). I'd prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I'm not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds-it's just not my taste). I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates. I'm going to call them Monday, but I'm not sure they have a coating light enough. I also don't want to paint it, as I know that won't hold up long term. I'm curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated. How does the "naked" aluminum hold up to the heat? What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 1214161012.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 57697 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Feb 19 23:24:15 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 22:24:15 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> Paint it! The paint should hold up as good or better than on the engine if it's done right, and that's how the factory did it. Bob On 2/19/2017 9:55 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was > powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the > head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots > have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is > cast aluminum (see the attached photo). > > I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a > big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to > all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my > taste). I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray > 12 years ago, and they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the > intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their > lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker > than their online color catalogue indicates. I?m going to call them > Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. > > I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long > term. I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and > leaving the manifold uncoated. How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up > to the heat? What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0416.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1580392 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0417.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1522578 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0418.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1349064 bytes Desc: not available URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Sun Feb 19 23:26:40 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 06:26:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> The "naked" aluminum will stand up to the heat just fine. The added coating may even be detrimental to heat transfer. I'm not surprised that the powder coating is discoloring. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bruce Steele Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 5:55:32 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my taste). I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates. I?m going to call them Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long term. I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated. How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up to the heat? What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 07:07:14 2017 From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jonathan Einhorn) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 09:07:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the best one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 einhornlawoffice at gmail.com fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drscholz at visioncenterpc.com Mon Feb 20 08:18:16 2017 From: drscholz at visioncenterpc.com (Chris Scholz) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 15:18:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: I switched my 4.11 to 3.54 and was very pleased. Sent from my iPhone Chris Scholz OD I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the best one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Feb 20 08:21:13 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 10:21:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? References: For the few dollars it costs, I would send them out to a brake shop to get them rebuilt by someone who has the tools and experience. They will clean them up ready for paint and replace the seals and pistons as needed. Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: February-18-17 1:25 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Split the Calipers? Hi All, Time to attack the front calipers on the BT7. They've been sitting for over 30 years and are really sad looking. I'm thinking the only way I'm going to get a purchase on them to get them out is to split the calipers. The factory manual, however, sez (in BOLD) to not attempt this. Why is this? In the archives folks say it can be done. Anything I have to watch for other than being clean and careful? Cheers and Thanks, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 54014 bytes Desc: not available URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Mon Feb 20 08:59:58 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 07:59:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Non_Healey_Question=2E=2E=2EBlower_Bentl?= =?iso-8859-1?q?ey?= Mike, Quick perusal of my copy of The Grand Prix Car by Laurence Pomeroy: all the roots-blown cars have these popoff valves on the manifolds. The blower is positive displacement so all that intake has to go somewhere on deceleration. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From waschu2 at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 13:00:09 2017 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 15:00:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements Hello, I am going to be helping a friend soon who has a BJ8 with the Koni front shock conversion. Both of his front shocks are leaking badly. Does anyone have a modern replacement part number? I think an adjustable gas shock would be the way to go. I can measure the full extended and retracted dimensions of the Koni shock and go from there, but I don't want to reinvent the wheel if someone already had part numbers to start with. Gabriel, Monroe, etc. Thanks Wayne From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Feb 20 13:13:26 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 20:13:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> Bruce,???? I have done my intake manifolds in Jet Hot coating.? They have a light silver that looks aluminum or actually any color you want.? It also keeps the heat from the engine bay out of the intake. Bonus.Jet-Hot High Performance Ceramic Coatings | | | | | | | | | | | Jet-Hot High Performance Ceramic Coatings High-performance coatings. Solving problems with heat, corrosion,?friction, and appearance. Backed with our li... | | | | Mike MacLean On Sunday, February 19, 2017 10:27 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold.? It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). ?I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my taste).? I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great.? So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates.? I?m going to call them Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. ?I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long term.? I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated.? How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up to the heat?? What have others done?? Your experience is appreciated. ?Bruce SteeleBrea, CA1960 BN7 ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Feb 20 14:05:04 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 16:05:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same Healey Green as the engine. In any event, I painted mine with the Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine. The intake manifold doesn't get that hot. The key to any paint durability is how clean the surface is when you paint it. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 12:56 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes I'm interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). I'd prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I'm not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds-it's just not my taste). I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates. I'm going to call them Monday, but I'm not sure they have a coating light enough. I also don't want to paint it, as I know that won't hold up long term. I'm curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated. How does the "naked" aluminum hold up to the heat? What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Mon Feb 20 14:26:08 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 21:26:08 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements Wayne, Try www.putzkes-fahrspass.com/eng/kits.html. Cheers, Doug Hello, I am going to be helping a friend soon who has a BJ8 with the Koni front shock conversion. Both of his front shocks are leaking badly. Does anyone have a modern replacement part number? I think an adjustable gas shock would be the way to go. I can measure the full extended and retracted dimensions of the Koni shock and go from there, but I don't want to reinvent the wheel if someone already had part numbers to start with. Gabriel, Monroe, etc. Thanks Wayne _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ____________________________________________________________ College Student Discovers The Fastest Way To Lose Weight! Capitalizing Calories http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/58ab5f603fb1e5f601a53st01duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Mon Feb 20 14:42:56 2017 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 16:42:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> I use a high temp clear coat for mine, so far so good. It does create a slightly different tone to the finish. John On 2/20/2017 12:55 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was > powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the > head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots > have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is > cast aluminum (see the attached photo). > > I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a > big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to > all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my > taste). I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray > 12 years ago, and they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the > intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their > lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker > than their online color catalogue indicates. I?m going to call them > Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. > > I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long > term. I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and > leaving the manifold uncoated. How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up > to the heat? What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kags at shaw.ca Mon Feb 20 14:57:14 2017 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 13:57:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] cyl head nut wrench Question(s) for the list: Has anyone ever used factory tool (or equivalent) 18G545 when retorqueing a Healey cyl. head? If so, how did it work? Is it worth trying to find one? Or possibly make up an equivalent? This tool will apparently allow retorqueing without removing the rocker shaft assembly. We have a few recently rebuilt big Healey engines around here that could use such a tool in the near future. Any comments / help will be appreciated. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Feb 20 14:58:34 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 22:58:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements References: Koni's can be rebuild by a Koni specialist. There are type numbers engraved at the bottom of the Koni's, like e.g. 80-2155. They may still being produced. Using gas shockabsorbers will raise the car a bit. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-2-2017 om 21:00 schreef Wayne: > Hello, > > I am going to be helping a friend soon who has a BJ8 with > the Koni front shock conversion. Both of his front shocks are leaking > badly. Does anyone have a modern replacement part number? I think an > adjustable gas shock would be the way to go. I can measure the full > extended and retracted dimensions of the Koni shock and go from there, > but I don't want to reinvent the wheel if someone already had part > numbers to start with. Gabriel, Monroe, etc. > > Thanks > Wayne > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > From john at jtkarowe.com.au Mon Feb 20 15:41:47 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 08:41:47 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements References: Wayne, Koni shocks are re-buildable. You might contact the distributors in your country. Regards John Rowe Qld Australia -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Sent: Tuesday, 21 February 2017 6:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements Hello, I am going to be helping a friend soon who has a BJ8 with the Koni front shock conversion. Both of his front shocks are leaking badly. Does anyone have a modern replacement part number? I think an adjustable gas shock would be the way to go. I can measure the full extended and retracted dimensions of the Koni shock and go from there, but I don't want to reinvent the wheel if someone already had part numbers to start with. Gabriel, Monroe, etc. Thanks Wayne _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/john at jtkarowe.com.au From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 15:55:18 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 14:55:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements References: Please share. Coukd use rear shock info too Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Feb 20, 2017 1:29 PM, "Wayne" wrote: > Hello, > > I am going to be helping a friend soon who has a BJ8 with the > Koni front shock conversion. Both of his front shocks are leaking badly. > Does anyone have a modern replacement part number? I think an adjustable > gas shock would be the way to go. I can measure the full extended and > retracted dimensions of the Koni shock and go from there, but I don't want > to reinvent the wheel if someone already had part numbers to start with. > Gabriel, Monroe, etc. > > Thanks > Wayne > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 17:27:16 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 14:27:16 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements References: <20170220.162608.17304.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com> If you don't want to mess with trying to find a different shock, Koni has a rebuilding service: http://www.koniracing.com/services.cfm Also, Udo is on a tour of Australia, don't know how in touch he is right now. Happy Healeying Rick Neville On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 11:26 AM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: > Wayne, > > Try www.putzkes-fahrspass.com/eng/kits.html. > > Cheers, > > Doug > > Hello, > > I am going to be helping a friend soon who has a BJ8 with > the Koni front shock conversion. Both of his front shocks are leaking > badly. Does anyone have a modern replacement part number? I think an > adjustable gas shock would be the way to go. I can measure the full > extended and retracted dimensions of the Koni shock and go from there, > but I don't want to reinvent the wheel if someone already had part > numbers to start with. Gabriel, Monroe, etc. > > Thanks > Wayne > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *College Student Discovers The Fastest Way To Lose Weight!* > Capitalizing Calories > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/58ab5f603fb1e5f601a53st01duc > [image: SponsoredBy Content.Ad] > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Feb 20 17:46:33 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 00:46:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> Steve,???? Healey green for the normal intake manifold, begs the question, what color the Lemans intake manifolds on Lemans conversions of the 100?Mike MacLean On Monday, February 20, 2017 2:47 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same Healey Green as the engine.? In any event, I painted mine with the Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine.? The intake manifold doesn't get that hot.? The key to any paint durability is how clean the surface is when you paint it. ?Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at LargeHavelock, NC? ? ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 12:56 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes ?I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold.? It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). ?I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my taste).? I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great.? So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates.? I?m going to call them Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. ?I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long term.? I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated.? How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up to the heat?? What have others done?? Your experience is appreciated. ?Bruce SteeleBrea, CA1960 BN7 ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Mon Feb 20 18:30:46 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 01:30:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: , The original final drive ratio for the BN1 was 4.125:1. This was using the spiral bevel rear end. BN2 through BJ8 used the hypoid rear axle and the standard final drive ratio through the BJ7 was 4.11:1. There were several different ratios available for the spiral bevel set, but I'm not sure what they were. The hypoid set was available in 3.909:1 for early non-overdrive and late (BJ8) overdrive cars and in 3.54:1 for late non-overdrive cars. The 2660 has plenty of power to pull a higher ratio on the highway and since I am using a hypoid final drive in my car I have opted for the 3.54:1 ratio as supplied by Mike Lempert. It is very pleasant in town or on the road. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Chris Scholz Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 3:18:16 PM To: Jonathan Einhorn Cc: healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios I switched my 4.11 to 3.54 and was very pleased. Sent from my iPhone Chris Scholz OD I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the best one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Mon Feb 20 18:58:43 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 01:58:43 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rick Caird Either Rick Caird's email has been hijacked or he really does think I'm interested in Blake Shelton's weight loss secrets... Bill Lawrence -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 19:07:43 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 18:07:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley References: <20170220010329.4264020.43812.7050@gmail.com> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.0178d7dd-6ffc-4efd-933a-d321cbc80d39@mail.outlook.com> British version of a "Flux Capacitor" ;-) On Feb 19, 2017 6:36 PM, wrote: "To protect the blower from backfires? Just a WAG" Sounds reasonable...BUT... I wouldn't be too happy about an air/fuel mixture blowing out there, particularly with an uninsulated spark plug wire next to it..... YIKES!!! There isn't even a spark gauze. What would Health and Safety have to say about that. Michael S From: Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Monday, February 20, 2:03 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley To: Michael Salter To protect the blower from backfires? Just a WAG -Roland Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. *From: * Michael Salter *Sent: * Sunday, February 19, 2017 3:36 PM *To: * healeys at autox.team.net *Subject: * [Healeys] Non Healey Question...Blower Bentley ?I was at the Ellerslie Intermarque Concours ?in Auckland last weekend and had the opportunity to take a close look at a "1931 Blower Bentley". There is a part of the engine that I cannot figure out and was wondering if anyone on the list who can shed some light on this. [image: Inline image 1] Where the carburetors would be mounted on a non supercharged engine there are these very complicated devices. [image: Inline image 2] I would guess that they are some sort of relief valve but, as the carbs are on the blower inlet I don't think that is very likely. Anyone know? Michael S BN1 #174 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Feb 20 20:43:05 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 19:43:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?manifold?= years ago i brush painted my manifold with rustoleum aluminum paint and it is still there and looks good. From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 20:45:05 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 19:45:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: I agree, the 3.54 ratio is the way to go. I'm bringing my rear end down to Pro-Gear in San Diego tomorrow to have my Lempert set installed. I also have an original set that I picked up in Australia from Robby Roland at the Healey Factory 20 years ago. Curt On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 7:18 AM, Chris Scholz wrote: > I switched my 4.11 to 3.54 and was very pleased. > > Sent from my iPhone > Chris Scholz OD > > On Feb 20, 2017, at 8:36 AM, Jonathan Einhorn > wrote: > > I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the best > one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. > > thanks > jon > > -- > Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. > Attorney & Counselor at Law > 129 Whitney Avenue > New Haven, CT. 06510 > tel: 203-777-3777 <(203)%20777-3777> > einhornlawoffice at gmail.com > fax: 203-782-1721 <(203)%20782-1721> > cell: 203-623-7373 <(203)%20623-7373> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/drscholz at visioncenterpc.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Feb 20 20:52:23 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 19:52:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Front tube shock replacements References: <75d29557-0a7c-305e-7fb7-8d5c30cb0204@chello.nl> I have the hardware, but not the shocks, so I have nothing to rebuild. That's why I need a part # to work from Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 1:58 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Koni's can be rebuild by a Koni specialist. There are type numbers > engraved at the bottom of the Koni's, like e.g. 80-2155. They may still > being produced. > Using gas shockabsorbers will raise the car a bit. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 20-2-2017 om 21:00 schreef Wayne: > >> Hello, >> >> I am going to be helping a friend soon who has a BJ8 with the >> Koni front shock conversion. Both of his front shocks are leaking badly. >> Does anyone have a modern replacement part number? I think an adjustable >> gas shock would be the way to go. I can measure the full extended and >> retracted dimensions of the Koni shock and go from there, but I don't want >> to reinvent the wheel if someone already had part numbers to start with. >> Gabriel, Monroe, etc. >> >> Thanks >> Wayne >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Feb 20 21:30:53 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 20:30:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: I think 4.1:1 was std/typical, which would be best for street driving. A taller rear end would be better for highway miles. IMO. Bob On 2/20/2017 6:07 AM, Jonathan Einhorn wrote: > I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the > best one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. > > thanks > jon > > -- > Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. > Attorney & Counselor at Law > 129 Whitney Avenue > New Haven, CT. 06510 > tel: 203-777-3777 > fax: 203-782-1721 > cell: 203-623-7373 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Feb 20 21:46:54 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2017 20:46:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> <1019009501.1349538.1487637993224@mail.yahoo.com> The manifolds on our original 100M were bare Al, but I can't say whether they came that way or the paint burned off. I suspect--since they added the larger carbs at the Healey factory--they wouldn't have bothered to paint them (since they usually couldn't be bothered to pull the engine to replace the cam). Bob On 2/20/2017 4:46 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Steve, > Healey green for the normal intake manifold, begs the question, > what color the Lemans intake manifolds on Lemans conversions of the 100? > Mike MacLean > > > On Monday, February 20, 2017 2:47 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > > I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same > Healey Green as the engine. In any event, I painted mine with the > Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine. The intake > manifold doesn't get that hot. The key to any paint durability is how > clean the surface is when you paint it. > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bruce Steele > *Sent:* Monday, February 20, 2017 12:56 AM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes > I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was > powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the > head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots > have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is > cast aluminum (see the attached photo). > I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a > big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to > all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my > taste). I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray > 12 years ago, and they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the > intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their > lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker > than their online color catalogue indicates. I?m going to call them > Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. > I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long > term. I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and > leaving the manifold uncoated. How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up > to the heat? What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100-0018_IMG.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 359269 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 102-0243_IMG.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 433760 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Feb 21 03:17:51 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 10:17:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> <1019009501.1349538.1487637993224@mail.yahoo.com> <0686bab9-a8d9-ddbb-71c1-d014c6e01490@comcast.net> Makes sense.Mike MacLean On Tuesday, February 21, 2017 2:03 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: The manifolds on our original 100M were bare Al, but I can't say whether they came that way or the paint burned off.? I suspect--since they added the larger carbs at the Healey factory--they wouldn't have bothered to paint them (since they usually couldn't be bothered to pull the engine to replace the cam). Bob On 2/20/2017 4:46 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Steve, ???? Healey green for the normal intake manifold, begs the question, what color the Lemans intake manifolds on Lemans conversions of the 100? Mike MacLean On Monday, February 20, 2017 2:47 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: #yiv3133065192 #yiv3133065192 -- filtered {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}#yiv3133065192 filtered {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv3133065192 filtered {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}#yiv3133065192 filtered {panose-1:3 15 7 2 3 3 2 2 2 4;}#yiv3133065192 filtered {panose-1:2 11 6 3 2 2 2 2 2 4;}#yiv3133065192 p.yiv3133065192MsoNormal, #yiv3133065192 li.yiv3133065192MsoNormal, #yiv3133065192 div.yiv3133065192MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv3133065192 a:link, #yiv3133065192 span.yiv3133065192MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3133065192 a:visited, #yiv3133065192 span.yiv3133065192MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3133065192 p.yiv3133065192MsoAcetate, #yiv3133065192 li.yiv3133065192MsoAcetate, #yiv3133065192 div.yiv3133065192MsoAcetate {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:8.0pt;}#yiv3133065192 span.yiv3133065192EmailStyle17 {color:windowtext;}#yiv3133065192 span.yiv3133065192EmailStyle18 {color:#002060;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv3133065192 span.yiv3133065192BalloonTextChar {}#yiv3133065192 .yiv3133065192MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv3133065192 filtered {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv3133065192 div.yiv3133065192WordSection1 {}#yiv3133065192 I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same Healey Green as the engine.? In any event, I painted mine with the Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine.? The intake manifold doesn't get that hot.? The key to any paint durability is how clean the surface is when you paint it. ? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? ? ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 12:56 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes ? I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold.? It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). ? I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my taste).? I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great.? So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates.? I?m going to call them Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. ? I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long term.? I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated.? How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up to the heat?? What have others done?? Your experience is appreciated. ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Feb 21 05:02:46 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 07:02:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> <1019009501.1349538.1487637993224@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, I don't presume to know much of anything about Healey models other than the BJ8. I was responding to Bruce's question about his BN7, and I assume that all 3000 engines left the factory in the same finish as BJ8 engines. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 7:47 PM To: BJ8Healeys; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes Steve, Healey green for the normal intake manifold, begs the question, what color the Lemans intake manifolds on Lemans conversions of the 100? Mike MacLean On Monday, February 20, 2017 2:47 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same Healey Green as the engine. In any event, I painted mine with the Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine. The intake manifold doesn't get that hot. The key to any paint durability is how clean the surface is when you paint it. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Feb 21 05:52:22 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 07:52:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> <1019009501.1349538.1487637993224@mail.yahoo.com> Mike >From the 2017 guidelines for Concours: ? 100M intake manifolds were unpainted, as the original manifolds were not used when the cars were modified. However, the balance pipe was reused and is painted engine green. Perry From: Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 3:05 AM To: BJ8Healeys; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes Steve, ???? Healey green for the normal intake manifold, begs the question, what color the Lemans intake manifolds on Lemans conversions of the 100? Mike MacLean On Monday, February 20, 2017 2:47 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same Healey Green as the engine.? In any event, I painted mine with the Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine.? The intake manifold doesn't get that hot.? The key to any paint durability is how clean the surface is when you paint it. ? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? ? ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 12:56 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes ? I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold.? It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). ? I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my taste).? I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great.? So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates.? I?m going to call them Monday, but I?m not sure they have a coating light enough. ? I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long term.? I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated.? How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up to the heat?? What have others done?? Your experience is appreciated. ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From RFBegani at speakeasy.net Tue Feb 21 06:39:10 2017 From: RFBegani at speakeasy.net (Robert F. Begani) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 08:39:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> My BJ8 manufactured, has an unpainted intake manifold which I believe is original because the car was produced toward the end of the era. It cleaned up very nicely with white vinegar, and was never grimy or oily on the engine. Along with the engine, a good washing cleaned it and the engine of road dust etc. I have decided to leave it O'natural. Bob Begani From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 4:05 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same Healey Green as the engine. In any event, I painted mine with the Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine. The intake manifold doesn't get that hot. The key to any paint durability is how clean the surface is when you paint it. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 12:56 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes I'm interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast aluminum (see the attached photo). I'd prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I'm not a big fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you out there with nice shiny intake manifolds-it's just not my taste). I had the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue indicates. I'm going to call them Monday, but I'm not sure they have a coating light enough. I also don't want to paint it, as I know that won't hold up long term. I'm curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the manifold uncoated. How does the "naked" aluminum hold up to the heat? What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Tue Feb 21 07:33:53 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 09:33:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios Depends on where you live. ?Standard gears is a perfect compromise for me in California.?Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Curtis Arndt Date: 2/20/17 10:45 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Chris Scholz Cc: healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios I agree, the 3.54 ratio is the way to go.? I'm bringing my rear end down to Pro-Gear in San Diego tomorrow to have my Lempert set installed.? I also have an original set that I picked up in Australia from Robby Roland at the Healey Factory 20 years ago. Curt On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 7:18 AM, Chris Scholz wrote: I switched my 4.11 to 3.54 and was very pleased.? Sent from my iPhone Chris Scholz OD On Feb 20, 2017, at 8:36 AM, Jonathan Einhorn wrote: I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the best one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 einhornlawoffice at gmail.com fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drscholz at visioncenterpc.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Feb 21 08:30:53 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 15:30:53 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have to remove his from his LHD '64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in the way, plus its pipework and the steering column...or is that a bit lower? Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The usual in fact.. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Feb 21 09:22:53 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 08:22:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: I have std. 4.1 in my 100M--it definitely gets off the line well--and I put a Lempert gearset in my BJ8. The M isn't comfortable to drive much over 70MPH, and I generally observe the 4K RPM 'red line' for the 100s--crank failures can happen above that--but it's a hoot driving the mountainous roads around the SF Bay Area. The BJ8 is the better touring car, but it does take some finessing to get it off the line (surprisingly, dumping the clutch relatively quickly but smoothly works the best, but sometimes I have to slip the clutch more than I like). I think a 3.9 might work well for an 'all-around' car, since the taller OD helps for cruising, but if you're looking at mostly highway miles the 3.54 would be the way to go. I remember Gary Anderson (I think) once saying a 3.54 with the 28% OD might be the best arrangement of all, but you'll lose some quickness. Bob On 2/21/2017 6:33 AM, goldengt wrote: > Depends on where you live. Standard gears is a perfect compromise for > me in California. > Ken Freese > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Curtis Arndt > Date: 2/20/17 10:45 PM (GMT-05:00) > To: Chris Scholz > Cc: healey list > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios > > I agree, the 3.54 ratio is the way to go. I'm bringing my rear end > down to Pro-Gear in San Diego tomorrow to have my Lempert set > installed. I also have an original set that I picked up in Australia > from Robby Roland at the Healey Factory 20 years ago. > > Curt > > On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 7:18 AM, Chris Scholz > > I switched my 4.11 to 3.54 and was very pleased. > > Sent from my iPhone > Chris Scholz OD > > On Feb 20, 2017, at 8:36 AM, Jonathan Einhorn > wrote: > >> I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is >> the best one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got >> OD. >> >> thanks >> jon >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbt71 at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 09:57:14 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 09:57:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Red Stripes on Springs Cleaned up the front springs and found the hand-painted red stripes were still there under all the crud. Anyone know what they're there for? I couldn't find anything in the archives. Seems the bonnet spring has one too. Cheers, Mike -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Feb 21 10:07:22 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 17:07:22 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: Coincidentally, I tried to send this before, but it came bouncing back.."too many recipients" or some such. With reference to ratios and Gary's(?) comment:- I've got a 3:54 diff and a 28% overdrive in my MkII BT7. Yes, it's a 3000 but I get the impression that there's still plenty of spare oomph, if you see what I mean. One just uses different gears/ratios. I drove it pretty much non-stop from one end of France to the other on their Autoroute system. Ideal. (Well, I stopped for petrol once or twice!) And for fun on our narrow Devon roads, I'm in 3rd when you regularly ratioed guys would be in 3rd, overdrive or 4th which is practically the same anyhow. I was unlucky enough to destroy my original 22%OD somehow - I don't know how - and had to have it rebuilt. (Replaced would be more like it.) Anyhow, since the cost was the same, I went for 28%. My point being that it was an opportunity and I took it. Had the opportunity not have arisen, I would never even have contemplated going from 22 to 28. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 21 February 2017 16:23 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios I have std. 4.1 in my 100M--it definitely gets off the line well--and I put a Lempert gearset in my BJ8. The M isn't comfortable to drive much over 70MPH, and I generally observe the 4K RPM 'red line' for the 100s--crank failures can happen above that--but it's a hoot driving the mountainous roads around the SF Bay Area. The BJ8 is the better touring car, but it does take some finessing to get it off the line (surprisingly, dumping the clutch relatively quickly but smoothly works the best, but sometimes I have to slip the clutch more than I like). I think a 3.9 might work well for an 'all-around' car, since the taller OD helps for cruising, but if you're looking at mostly highway miles the 3.54 would be the way to go. I remember Gary Anderson (I think) once saying a 3.54 with the 28% OD might be the best arrangement of all, but you'll lose some quickness. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 10:18:42 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 09:18:42 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box References: <001401d28c57$7d4c6e10$77e54a30$@homecall.co.uk> try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in between the extensions I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey > standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have > to remove his from his LHD ?64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in the > way, plus its pipework and the steering column?..or is that a bit lower? > > Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what > does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The > usual in fact?. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Feb 21 10:26:45 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 09:26:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Red Stripes on Springs References: They identify the tension of the springs. There may be one or two strips usually red or white on the front springs. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Mike Tobin Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 8:57 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Red Stripes on Springs Cleaned up the front springs and found the hand-painted red stripes were still there under all the crud. Anyone know what they're there for? I couldn't find anything in the archives. Seems the bonnet spring has one too. Cheers, Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jvwojcik at comcast.net Tue Feb 21 11:07:55 2017 From: jvwojcik at comcast.net (Jim Wojcik) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 12:07:55 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: I have a 3/91 set to sell if anyone is interested. Jim Wojcik From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 10:23 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios I have std. 4.1 in my 100M--it definitely gets off the line well--and I put a Lempert gearset in my BJ8. The M isn't comfortable to drive much over 70MPH, and I generally observe the 4K RPM 'red line' for the 100s--crank failures can happen above that--but it's a hoot driving the mountainous roads around the SF Bay Area. The BJ8 is the better touring car, but it does take some finessing to get it off the line (surprisingly, dumping the clutch relatively quickly but smoothly works the best, but sometimes I have to slip the clutch more than I like). I think a 3.9 might work well for an 'all-around' car, since the taller OD helps for cruising, but if you're looking at mostly highway miles the 3.54 would be the way to go. I remember Gary Anderson (I think) once saying a 3.54 with the 28% OD might be the best arrangement of all, but you'll lose some quickness. Bob On 2/21/2017 6:33 AM, goldengt wrote: Depends on where you live. Standard gears is a perfect compromise for me in California. Ken Freese Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- Date: 2/20/17 10:45 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios I agree, the 3.54 ratio is the way to go. I'm bringing my rear end down to Pro-Gear in San Diego tomorrow to have my Lempert set installed. I also have an original set that I picked up in Australia from Robby Roland at the Healey Factory 20 years ago. Curt On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 7:18 AM, Chris Scholz From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 11:09:17 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 10:09:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Red Stripes on Springs References: Paint marks were used by manufacturers to indicate that a job was completed or a specific part was used, So red stripe could have meant that springs from a certain batch were used or red stripe guy installed them Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 8:57 AM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Cleaned up the front springs and found the hand-painted red stripes were > still there under all the crud. > Anyone know what they're there for? I couldn't find anything in the > archives. > Seems the bonnet spring has one too. > Cheers, > Mike > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Tue Feb 21 12:45:09 2017 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 11:45:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> <1019009501.1349538.1487637993224@mail.yahoo.com> <055101d28c3a$6ac56980$40503c80$@rr.com> When I purchased my 1967 BJ8 in 1970 with less than 15,000 miles on the odo, the intake manifold was devoid of any evidence of paint. There was an engine / transmission swap at the factory before delivery as the original owner who lived in Spain did not want the overdrive. Current engine number is 29K U H / 13793. "This car was originally fitted with engine no. 29K RU H / 13594 with overdrive gearbox but this was changed before despatch from the factory". (BL Heritage Limited certificate) I do not know if the swap has any bearing on the painted or not painted issue. (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 215,566 miles ----- Original Message ----- From: BJ8Healeys To: 'Healey List' Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 4:02 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes Mike, I don't presume to know much of anything about Healey models other than the BJ8. I was responding to Bruce's question about his BN7, and I assume that all 3000 engines left the factory in the same finish as BJ8 engines. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 7:47 PM To: BJ8Healeys; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes Steve, Healey green for the normal intake manifold, begs the question, what color the Lemans intake manifolds on Lemans conversions of the 100? Mike MacLean On Monday, February 20, 2017 2:47 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: I believe the intake manifolds left the factory painted the same Healey Green as the engine. In any event, I painted mine with the Moss spray can engine paint in 1999 and it's still fine. The intake manifold doesn't get that hot. The key to any paint durability is how clean the surface is when you paint it. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dcorning at ford.com Tue Feb 21 13:39:09 2017 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 20:39:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Solenoid For Car My baskets full of random Healey parts came with what I think is 3 starter solenoids. Two of the cylindrical ones and one of the square type. For a 1962 BT7 Tri-Carb, which is correct? [cid:image003.png at 01D28C50.420EBC60] Best, Dan Corning (615) 579-1032 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.png Type: image/png Size: 289944 bytes Desc: image003.png URL: From drmasucci at comcast.net Tue Feb 21 17:19:09 2017 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (drmasucci at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 00:19:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Felt-like (flocked) texture in glove box Hi All, Does anyone have a recommendation for restoring the felt-like or flocked texture to the inside of the glove box? My glove box is in pretty good structural shape, but the inside texture is pretty beat. I could just spray it black, but I'm wondering if there's a better product out there. Thanks in advance for any help on this. Dave 64 BJ8 72 XJ6 72 Bonneville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 17:19:35 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 16:19:35 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Correct Solenoid For Car References: <973d4b32dfe345dd964b2a944e358b5a@nafcmb26.exchange.ford.com> The left with the start over ride button Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes Portland,OR On Feb 21, 2017 2:59 PM, "Corning, Dan (D.C.)" wrote: > My baskets full of random Healey parts came with what I think is 3 starter > solenoids. Two of the cylindrical ones and one of the square type. > > > > For a 1962 BT7 Tri-Carb, which is correct? > > > > > > Best, > > > Dan Corning > (615) 579-1032 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.png Type: image/png Size: 289944 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydohdahman at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 18:37:16 2017 From: healeydohdahman at gmail.com (1 2) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 18:37:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Gears Sorry if this has been asked and answered. Will the Lempert gears change how the speedometer reads? Or is it independent? Thank you -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Feb 21 19:29:54 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 18:29:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Gears References: Yep. Going from 3.9:1, for instance, to 3.54:1 will cause your speedo, odometer and trip meter to indicate about 11% low; e.g. if you're indicating 60MPH you'll be doing about 67. You can: 1) get new gears for the odometer/trip meter and get the speedo calibrated, 2) get an inline ratio adapter, 3) get a GPS with real-time speed readout 4) get good at multiplying by 1.11 in your head Bob On 2/21/2017 5:37 PM, 1 2 wrote: > Sorry if this has been asked and answered. Will the Lempert gears > change how the speedometer reads? Or is it independent? > > Thank you > From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Feb 21 19:36:29 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 18:36:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Felt-like (flocked) texture in glove box References: <2042928176.22491973.1487722749689.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> I think something like this added to regular paint might be close: *http://tinyurl.com/go4qvc6* On 2/21/2017 4:19 PM, drmasucci at comcast.net wrote: > Hi All, > > Does anyone have a recommendation for restoring the felt-like or > flocked texture to the inside of the glove box? My glove box is in > pretty good structural shape, but the inside texture is pretty beat. I > could just spray it black, but I'm wondering if there's a better > product out there. > > Thanks in advance for any help on this. > > Dave > > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > 72 Bonneville > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 20:06:15 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 11:06:15 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: If you have an early BN1, then the ratios are different. 4.125 and optional 3.66. If you have a really early BN1 like me, you have a 32% OD (my fav!) On Mon, Feb 20, 2017 at 11:18 PM, Chris Scholz wrote: > I switched my 4.11 to 3.54 and was very pleased. > > Sent from my iPhone > Chris Scholz OD > > On Feb 20, 2017, at 8:36 AM, Jonathan Einhorn > wrote: > > I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the best > one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. > > thanks > jon > > -- > Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. > Attorney & Counselor at Law > 129 Whitney Avenue > New Haven, CT. 06510 > tel: 203-777-3777 > einhornlawoffice at gmail.com > fax: 203-782-1721 > cell: 203-623-7373 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/drscholz at visioncenterpc.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue Feb 21 22:17:24 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2017 19:17:24 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] Felt-like (flocked) texture in glove box References: <1963377708.22491375.1487722555526.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <2042928176.22491973.1487722749689.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> I haven't thought about flock since I built hot rod models as a kid and we used it for upholstery. There's a spray: https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Detailing_and_Weathering/SMO00005503/product.php?gclid=CJL6i8D4otICFZKGfgodvYEG8Q Or you could do it the old fashioned way by sprinkling the powder on a glued surface: https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Detailing_and_Weathering/SMO00005503/product.php?gclid=CJL6i8D4otICFZKGfgodvYEG8Q Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 2:19 PM, wrote: > Hi All, > > Does anyone have a recommendation for restoring the felt-like or flocked > texture to the inside of the glove box? My glove box is in pretty good > structural shape, but the inside texture is pretty beat. I could just spray > it black, but I'm wondering if there's a better product out there. > > Thanks in advance for any help on this. > > Dave > > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > 72 Bonneville > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Feb 22 06:00:48 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 08:00:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> <052301d28bbd$026ca4c0$0745ee40$@rr.com> <1019009501.1349538.1487637993224@mail.yahoo.com> <055101d28c3a$6ac56980$40503c80$@rr.com> Thanks for the info, Len. It has been my understanding (possibly inaccurate) that when the engines were painted accessories such as generator and starter were already installed and the whole thing was painted at the same time, including the fan belt. If that was true, then it seems logical that the intake and exhaust manifolds would also have been installed and painted. I would not think that an engine swap would matter since the replacement engine would have been painted the same as the original. Those who are fortunate enough to be the original (and still) owner of a Healey would probably have more knowledge about how the engine looked when new; but I also am the original (and still) owner of a 1969 Dodge Charger and I couldn't tell you such details because I didn't pay attention to them. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len and/or Marge Hartnett Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 2:45 PM To: AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes When I purchased my 1967 BJ8 in 1970 with less than 15,000 miles on the odo, the intake manifold was devoid of any evidence of paint. There was an engine / transmission swap at the factory before delivery as the original owner who lived in Spain did not want the overdrive. Current engine number is 29K U H / 13793. "This car was originally fitted with engine no. 29K RU H / 13594 with overdrive gearbox but this was changed before despatch from the factory". (BL Heritage Limited certificate) I do not know if the swap has any bearing on the painted or not painted issue. (The Other) Len [whatever happened to the basic "Len"?] Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 215,566 miles -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ggilliam at usol.com Wed Feb 22 06:31:39 2017 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 08:31:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey on Bring A Trailer Another AH up for auction on BAT: http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1963-austin-healey-3000-mk-i/ Happy bidding! Gordy Longbridge BN4 From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Feb 22 08:18:12 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 07:18:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey on Bring A Trailer References: <85f782ef3edade30e858736780cb93e7@usol.com> A one-of-a-kind 'concurs' car! Actually pretty nice. I'd consider it closer to a #2. Bob On 2/22/2017 5:31 AM, ggilliam at usol.com wrote: > Another AH up for auction on BAT: > http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1963-austin-healey-3000-mk-i/ > > Happy bidding! > Gordy > Longbridge BN4 > _______________________________________________ > > > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Feb 22 09:04:54 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 08:04:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box References: <001401d28c57$7d4c6e10$77e54a30$@homecall.co.uk> <132a01d28d1f$5f53b670$1dfb2350$@roadrunner.com> I don't have my air hoses in place yet, so It is a straight shot to the top nuts. My mechanic removed mine and cleaned and adjusted the internal points. It gets rusty in there. So Simon, you might take a look inside once you get it out and I would bet you will find rust and crud in there. Using a multi-meter you should be able to check the contacts. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, Feb 22, 2017 at 7:21 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > Simon, I?ve had mine out twice, most recently last weekend when I > replaced it while the engine is out for a rebuild (it was a lot easier to > sit in the engine bay than reach over!). Using a long thin flat blade > screwdriver, loosen the terminals one at a time. I was perhaps fortunate > that my wires are basically ?trained? to lay in order so keeping them > straight was not a problem, but if in doubt label them first. Ira?s > right?seeing the color codes can be tricky unless everything is really > clean! Remove the bottom screw last. Removing the top 2 screws is the > problem as they are blocked by the air trunking. If there is no way to get > to them from the front, and there probably isn?t, you can drill them out > through the captive nuts in the wheel well. Yes, that ruins the nuts, but > there is an easy solution to that. Before reinstalling the relay unit, put > 2 U-type spring clip speed nuts on the flange over the outboard holes. > Install the bottom machine screw to finger tight to hold the unit in place, > then use 2 sheet metal screws through the drilled out nuts to secure the > top. Or 1 screw?I?m pretty sure 3 screws in that is overkill. You may > have to move the unit slightly side to side to line up the holes, but it > will work fine and is much easier than trying to go in from the front. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *i > erbs > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 21, 2017 9:19 AM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Pierre Henri Claret ; Healey List < > healeys at autox.team.net> > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box > > > > try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in between the > extensions > > I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read. > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Simon Lachlan < > simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote: > > My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey > standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have > to remove his from his LHD ?64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in the > way, plus its pipework and the steering column?..or is that a bit lower? > > Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what > does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The > usual in fact?. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Feb 22 09:39:19 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 08:39:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box References: <001401d28c57$7d4c6e10$77e54a30$@homecall.co.uk> <132a01d28d1f$5f53b670$1dfb2350$@roadrunner.com> Are these boxes sealed? We got into ours from a BN2, and had to drill out a couple spot welds. After installing a new harness, the turn indicators didn't function properly. 'Assuming' the problem was in the relay box, we opened it up only to find out later the harness had a couple wires mislabeled (wrong color/trace). This really pissed me off as otherwise I had the harness wired 100% correct (not to mention 'violating' an original flasher box). Bob On 2/22/2017 8:04 AM, i erbs wrote: > I don't have my air hoses in place yet, so It is a straight shot to > the top nuts. My mechanic removed mine and cleaned and adjusted the > internal points. It gets rusty in there. So Simon, you might take a > look inside once you get it out and I would bet you will find rust and > crud in there. Using a multi-meter you should be able to check the > contacts. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Wed, Feb 22, 2017 at 7:21 AM, Bruce Steele > > Simon, I?ve had mine out twice, most recently last weekend when I > replaced it while the engine is out for a rebuild (it was a lot > easier to sit in the engine bay than reach over!). Using a long > thin flat blade screwdriver, loosen the terminals one at a time. > I was perhaps fortunate that my wires are basically ?trained? to > lay in order so keeping them straight was not a problem, but if in > doubt label them first. Ira?s right?seeing the color codes can be > tricky unless everything is really clean! Remove the bottom > screw last. Removing the top 2 screws is the problem as they are > blocked by the air trunking. If there is no way to get to them > from the front, and there probably isn?t, you can drill them out > through the captive nuts in the wheel well. Yes, that ruins the > nuts, but there is an easy solution to that. Before reinstalling > the relay unit, put 2 U-type spring clip speed nuts on the flange > over the outboard holes. Install the bottom machine screw to > finger tight to hold the unit in place, then use 2 sheet metal > screws through the drilled out nuts to secure the top. Or 1 > screw?I?m pretty sure 3 screws in that is overkill. You may have > to move the unit slightly side to side to line up the holes, but > it will work fine and is much easier than trying to go in from the > front. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 21, 2017 9:19 AM > *To:* Simon Lachlan *Cc:* Pierre Henri Claret *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box > > try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in > between the extensions > > I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read. > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Simon Lachlan > > My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough > by Healey standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems > that my nephew may have to remove his from his LHD ?64 BJ8. So > the brake fluid reservoir is in the way, plus its pipework and > the steering column?..or is that a bit lower? > > Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major > kerfuffle or what does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble > jointed wrists and elbows? The usual in fact?. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Wed Feb 22 09:43:14 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 08:43:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box References: <001401d28c57$7d4c6e10$77e54a30$@homecall.co.uk> <132a01d28d1f$5f53b670$1dfb2350$@roadrunner.com> The first time I had mine out was to take it apart and replace the old relays with electronic parts following the instructions in the attached article from Healey Marque. One of the old relays had failed and my right front turn signal was not working. The rebuild worked well for years, but in the process of rebuilding it I broke one of the connectors and had to use an epoxy putty to hold it in place. It eventually got a little wobbly, so I decided to replace the unit last week with a new electronic one. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2017 8:05 AM To: Bruce Steele Cc: Simon Lachlan ; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box I don't have my air hoses in place yet, so It is a straight shot to the top nuts. My mechanic removed mine and cleaned and adjusted the internal points. It gets rusty in there. So Simon, you might take a look inside once you get it out and I would bet you will find rust and crud in there. Using a multi-meter you should be able to check the contacts. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words Simon, I?ve had mine out twice, most recently last weekend when I replaced it while the engine is out for a rebuild (it was a lot easier to sit in the engine bay than reach over!). Using a long thin flat blade screwdriver, loosen the terminals one at a time. I was perhaps fortunate that my wires are basically ?trained? to lay in order so keeping them straight was not a problem, but if in doubt label them first. Ira?s right?seeing the color codes can be tricky unless everything is really clean! Remove the bottom screw last. Removing the top 2 screws is the problem as they are blocked by the air trunking. If there is no way to get to them from the front, and there probably isn?t, you can drill them out through the captive nuts in the wheel well. Yes, that ruins the nuts, but there is an easy solution to that. Before reinstalling the relay unit, put 2 U-type spring clip speed nuts on the flange over the outboard holes. Install the bottom machine screw to finger tight to hold the unit in place, then use 2 sheet metal screws through the drilled out nuts to secure the top. Or 1 screw?I?m pretty sure 3 screws in that is overkill. You may have to move the unit slightly side to side to line up the holes, but it will work fine and is much easier than trying to go in from the front. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 9:19 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in between the extensions I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have to remove his from his LHD ?64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in the way, plus its pipework and the steering column?..or is that a bit lower? Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The usual in fact?. Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Trafficator relay box rebuild.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1410127 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Wed Feb 22 16:15:46 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 23:15:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box References: <001401d28c57$7d4c6e10$77e54a30$@homecall.co.uk> <132a01d28d1f$5f53b670$1dfb2350$@roadrunner.com> , <901f6c9e-2772-af0f-e98d-a5060c93314d@comcast.net> Bob, No these boxes are not sealed, they have three prongs, two at one end and one at the other that hold the cover in place. As Bruce Steele, I had done an article on these a while ago for Healey Marque, and I have done about a dozen of these and they are still working well and the outside liiks original. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: February 22, 2017 4:39 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box Are these boxes sealed? We got into ours from a BN2, and had to drill out a couple spot welds. After installing a new harness, the turn indicators didn't function properly. 'Assuming' the problem was in the relay box, we opened it up only to find out later the harness had a couple wires mislabeled (wrong color/trace). This really pissed me off as otherwise I had the harness wired 100% correct (not to mention 'violating' an original flasher box). Bob On 2/22/2017 8:04 AM, i erbs wrote: I don't have my air hoses in place yet, so It is a straight shot to the top nuts. My mechanic removed mine and cleaned and adjusted the internal points. It gets rusty in there. So Simon, you might take a look inside once you get it out and I would bet you will find rust and crud in there. Using a multi-meter you should be able to check the contacts. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words Simon, I?ve had mine out twice, most recently last weekend when I replaced it while the engine is out for a rebuild (it was a lot easier to sit in the engine bay than reach over!). Using a long thin flat blade screwdriver, loosen the terminals one at a time. I was perhaps fortunate that my wires are basically ?trained? to lay in order so keeping them straight was not a problem, but if in doubt label them first. Ira?s right?seeing the color codes can be tricky unless everything is really clean! Remove the bottom screw last. Removing the top 2 screws is the problem as they are blocked by the air trunking. If there is no way to get to them from the front, and there probably isn?t, you can drill them out through the captive nuts in the wheel well. Yes, that ruins the nuts, but there is an easy solution to that. Before reinstalling the relay unit, put 2 U-type spring clip speed nuts on the flange over the outboard holes. Install the bottom machine screw to finger tight to hold the unit in place, then use 2 sheet metal screws through the drilled out nuts to secure the top. Or 1 screw?I?m pretty sure 3 screws in that is overkill. You may have to move the unit slightly side to side to line up the holes, but it will work fine and is much easier than trying to go in from the front. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 9:19 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in between the extensions I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have to remove his from his LHD ?64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in the way, plus its pipework and the steering column?..or is that a bit lower? Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The usual in fact?. Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Wed Feb 22 18:00:20 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 17:00:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Intake manifold finishes References: <0ac301d28b3d$f3475550$d9d5fff0$@roadrunner.com> I suggest you consider media blasting your manifold. Depending on the media you use you will get a different patina. Do not use aluminum oxide or any other really aggressive media as it will pit the aluminum. If you use good quality spherical glass beads it actually peens the aluminum. You get a really nice patina and it will resist oxidation, look cleaner and maintain that patina. Any coating or paint will not give you that naked aluminum look that is so natural. And, those glass beads that Harbor Fright sells are not the kind of quality beads I'm taking about. On Sun, Feb 19, 2017 at 9:55 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > I?m interested in my options for finishing my intake manifold. It was > powder coated clear 12 years ago, and the coating has yellowed at the head > flanges from heat, and over the years what look like rust spots have > developed in the powder coat, which is odd since the manifold is cast > aluminum (see the attached photo). > > > > I?d prefer to preserve the natural cast aluminum color, and I?m not a big > fan of the chrome or polished look on the intake (my apologies to all you > out there with nice shiny intake manifolds?it?s just not my taste). I had > the exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated in a cast iron gray 12 years ago, and > they still look great. So, Jet-Hot coating the intake is one option, but > the color samples they sent me of their lightest grays are all at best a > medium gray; all considerably darker than their online color catalogue > indicates. I?m going to call them Monday, but I?m not sure they have a > coating light enough. > > > > I also don?t want to paint it, as I know that won?t hold up long term. > I?m curious about blasting the clear powder coat off and leaving the > manifold uncoated. How does the ?naked? aluminum hold up to the heat? > What have others done? Your experience is appreciated. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Feb 22 18:30:41 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2017 01:30:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windshield Post Needed References: <1973478319.2955796.1487813441508.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Anyone on the list have an orphan driver's side 100-4 windshield post they would like to sell?? The two posts I do have are being polished instead of painted.? The polisher emailed me today to tell me the driver's side post was too badly pitted to polish without removing too much material. I have seen them polished and painted.? I think the polished version looks so much better.? I know it is not correct, but I am not going for a 100% car.? Then again, I am not putting a Japanese transmission in it either.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Wed Feb 22 21:10:10 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2017 04:10:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Gears References: , <5f3ba164-53ae-5d6b-7b6e-91e815a770f5@comcast.net> Actually it is simpler than that. The speedometer is trimmed by varying the amount of magnetic flux in the permanent magnets in the speedometer head. This is accomplished by placing the gauge in a machine that can adjust the magnet's strength. A good gauge shop can do this if they know the number of turns the cable makes when it runs over a set distance. Usually they ask you to count the number of turns the cable makes as the car is moved 53 feet. Multiplying by 1000 gives the number of turns per mile and the gaussing/degaussing machine does the rest. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2017 2:29:54 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lempert Gears Yep. Going from 3.9:1, for instance, to 3.54:1 will cause your speedo, odometer and trip meter to indicate about 11% low; e.g. if you're indicating 60MPH you'll be doing about 67. You can: 1) get new gears for the odometer/trip meter and get the speedo calibrated, 2) get an inline ratio adapter, 3) get a GPS with real-time speed readout 4) get good at multiplying by 1.11 in your head Bob On 2/21/2017 5:37 PM, 1 2 wrote: > Sorry if this has been asked and answered. Will the Lempert gears > change how the speedometer reads? Or is it independent? > > Thank you > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Wed Feb 22 21:14:56 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2017 04:14:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios References: , Does anyone have or know of a set of 32% planetary gears for sale? My car has been converted to the 28% ratio and I would like to go back. It might even make for a useful split between the 2nd OD and the 3rd normal gearing. Bill Lawrence BN! #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Alan Seigrist Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2017 3:06:15 AM To: Chris Scholz Cc: healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle ratios If you have an early BN1, then the ratios are different. 4.125 and optional 3.66. If you have a really early BN1 like me, you have a 32% OD (my fav!) I switched my 4.11 to 3.54 and was very pleased. Sent from my iPhone Chris Scholz OD I'm restoring a 100-4 and have several rear axle ratios: what is the best one for street driving? What was standard? Yes, it's got OD. thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Feb 22 21:26:34 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2017 20:26:34 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lempert Gears References: <5f3ba164-53ae-5d6b-7b6e-91e815a770f5@comcast.net> The odometer and trip meter gears are driven by a worm gear driven directly by the speedo cable. These have to be changed if the diff ratio is changed (well, if you want the odometer and trip meter to be accurate). These gears are known to crack and can produce a speed indicator that 'jumps' in proportion to speed. Thanks for the info on the speed indicator adjustment; always wondered how that was done. I thought they might change the 'watch' spring that resists the magnets. Bob On 2/22/2017 8:10 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > Actually it is simpler than that. The speedometer is trimmed by > varying the amount of magnetic flux in the permanent magnets in > the speedometer head. This is accomplished by placing the gauge in a > machine that can adjust the magnet's strength. A good gauge shop can > do this if they know the number of turns the cable makes when it runs > over a set distance. Usually they ask you to count the number of turns > the cable makes as the car is moved 53 feet. Multiplying by 1000 gives > the number of turns per mile and the gaussing/degaussing machine does > the rest. > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Wednesday, February 22, 2017 2:29:54 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Lempert Gears > Yep. Going from 3.9:1, for instance, to 3.54:1 will cause your speedo, > odometer and trip meter to indicate about 11% low; e.g. if you're > indicating 60MPH you'll be doing about 67. > > You can: > > 1) get new gears for the odometer/trip meter and get the speedo > calibrated, > > 2) get an inline ratio adapter, > > 3) get a GPS with real-time speed readout > > 4) get good at multiplying by 1.11 in your head > > Bob > > > On 2/21/2017 5:37 PM, 1 2 wrote: > > Sorry if this has been asked and answered. Will the Lempert gears > > change how the speedometer reads? Or is it independent? > > > > Thank you > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kerrygl at shaw.ca Thu Feb 23 21:40:47 2017 From: kerrygl at shaw.ca (kerry) Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2017 20:40:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box References: <001401d28c57$7d4c6e10$77e54a30$@homecall.co.uk> <132a01d28d1f$5f53b670$1dfb2350$@roadrunner.com> , <901f6c9e-2772-af0f-e98d-a5060c93314d@comcast.net> Thanks for the idea of going through the back to replace the flasherbox..I had thought about backing the two top scews out from the wheel well access just couldn't figure out how to get them back in after installing new box .maybe staring at it for a couple more months will help..darn air hose ! Right now I only make left turnsJ Kerry BT7 Victoria BC From: Jean Caron [mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com] Sent: February 22, 2017 3:16 PM To: Bob Spidell; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box Bob, No these boxes are not sealed, they have three prongs, two at one end and one at the other that hold the cover in place. As Bruce Steele, I had done an article on these a while ago for Healey Marque, and I have done about a dozen of these and they are still working well and the outside liiks original. Jean _____ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: February 22, 2017 4:39 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box Are these boxes sealed? We got into ours from a BN2, and had to drill out a couple spot welds. After installing a new harness, the turn indicators didn't function properly. 'Assuming' the problem was in the relay box, we opened it up only to find out later the harness had a couple wires mislabeled (wrong color/trace). This really pissed me off as otherwise I had the harness wired 100% correct (not to mention 'violating' an original flasher box). Bob On 2/22/2017 8:04 AM, i erbs wrote: I don't have my air hoses in place yet, so It is a straight shot to the top nuts. My mechanic removed mine and cleaned and adjusted the internal points. It gets rusty in there. So Simon, you might take a look inside once you get it out and I would bet you will find rust and crud in there. Using a multi-meter you should be able to check the contacts. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, Feb 22, 2017 at 7:21 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: Simon, I've had mine out twice, most recently last weekend when I replaced it while the engine is out for a rebuild (it was a lot easier to sit in the engine bay than reach over!). Using a long thin flat blade screwdriver, loosen the terminals one at a time. I was perhaps fortunate that my wires are basically "trained" to lay in order so keeping them straight was not a problem, but if in doubt label them first. Ira's right-seeing the color codes can be tricky unless everything is really clean! Remove the bottom screw last. Removing the top 2 screws is the problem as they are blocked by the air trunking. If there is no way to get to them from the front, and there probably isn't, you can drill them out through the captive nuts in the wheel well. Yes, that ruins the nuts, but there is an easy solution to that. Before reinstalling the relay unit, put 2 U-type spring clip speed nuts on the flange over the outboard holes. Install the bottom machine screw to finger tight to hold the unit in place, then use 2 sheet metal screws through the drilled out nuts to secure the top. Or 1 screw-I'm pretty sure 3 screws in that is overkill. You may have to move the unit slightly side to side to line up the holes, but it will work fine and is much easier than trying to go in from the front. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 9:19 AM To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Pierre Henri Claret ; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in between the extensions I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have to remove his from his LHD '64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in the way, plus its pipework and the steering column...or is that a bit lower? Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The usual in fact.. Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Fri Feb 24 03:10:21 2017 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 10:10:21 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? Team. This is a shout out to report a problem with the Austin Healey Club USA (Healey.org) website. I'm trying to renew my membership and the site isn't accepting my username/password. I know they are correct as they are written down in my secrets stash and also cached in my Chrome browser. On trying to exercise the 'forgotten password' link, that also fails as the 'Captcha' applet appears to be broken too. Any suggestions what the quick and dirty might be to get membership renewed as it expired 3 days ago (according to my Outlook calendar) and I don't want to miss my magazine fix? Cheers all. AlanB cid:image001.png at 01D18856.FC90FB60 --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 14962 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Feb 24 07:20:33 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 06:20:33 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? References: <059801d28e86$35ed6d40$a1c847c0$@gmail.com> Hmmm ... Didn't find any webmaster info, but the President's--Mark Schneider--phone# is on the 'Contact Us' page: 503-643-7208 I'd say this is an emergency; go straight to the top! Bob On 2/24/2017 2:10 AM, Bluehealey wrote: > > Team. > > This is a shout out to report a problem with the Austin Healey Club > USA (Healey.org) website. I?m trying to renew my membership and the > site isn?t accepting my username/password. I know they are correct as > they are written down in my secrets stash and also cached in my Chrome > browser. > > On trying to exercise the ?forgotten password? link, that also fails > as the ?Captcha? applet appears to be broken too. > > Any suggestions what the quick and dirty might be to get membership > renewed as it expired 3 days ago (according to my Outlook calendar) > and I don?t want to miss my magazine fix? > > Cheers all. > > AlanB > > cid:image001.png at 01D18856.FC90FB60 > > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: image/png Size: 14962 bytes Desc: not available URL: From edriver at sasktel.net Fri Feb 24 08:14:00 2017 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 09:14:00 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? References: <059801d28e86$35ed6d40$a1c847c0$@gmail.com> Hi Bob and Alan The web master of AHCUSA is Tracy Drummond his email address is bighealey AT charter.net and membership director is Mark Schneider Marksbj8 AT icloud.,com Cheers Ed Saskatoon, Saskatchewan On 24/02/2017 8:20 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Hmmm ... Didn't find any webmaster info, but the President's--Mark > Schneider--phone# is on the 'Contact Us' page: 503-643-7208 > > I'd say this is an emergency; go straight to the top! > > Bob > > > On 2/24/2017 2:10 AM, Bluehealey wrote: >> >> Team. >> >> This is a shout out to report a problem with the Austin Healey Club >> USA (Healey.org) website. I?m trying to renew my membership and the >> site isn?t accepting my username/password. I know they are correct as >> they are written down in my secrets stash and also cached in my >> Chrome browser. >> >> On trying to exercise the ?forgotten password? link, that also fails >> as the ?Captcha? applet appears to be broken too. >> >> Any suggestions what the quick and dirty might be to get membership >> renewed as it expired 3 days ago (according to my Outlook calendar) >> and I don?t want to miss my magazine fix? >> >> Cheers all. >> >> AlanB >> >> cid:image001.png at 01D18856.FC90FB60 >> >> >> >> Virus-free. www.avast.com >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: image/png Size: 14962 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Fri Feb 24 08:58:58 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 15:58:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? References: <059801d28e86$35ed6d40$a1c847c0$@gmail.com> Perhaps send a message to Tracy Drummond at bighealey at charter.net, he looks after the website. I just renewed my membership 4 days ago and has no problem. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bluehealey Sent: February 24, 2017 10:10 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? Team. This is a shout out to report a problem with the Austin Healey Club USA (Healey.org) website. I?m trying to renew my membership and the site isn?t accepting my username/password. I know they are correct as they are written down in my secrets stash and also cached in my Chrome browser. On trying to exercise the ?forgotten password? link, that also fails as the ?Captcha? applet appears to be broken too. Any suggestions what the quick and dirty might be to get membership renewed as it expired 3 days ago (according to my Outlook calendar) and I don?t want to miss my magazine fix? Cheers all. AlanB [cid:image001.png at 01D18856.FC90FB60] [https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif] Virus-free. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 14962 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From roggrace at telus.net Fri Feb 24 09:18:10 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 08:18:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Trans oil foaming I recently had the OD on my BJ8 apart to replace some parts ? bearing/accumulator/gaskets/O rings etc. For a first sort of sacrificial oil fill I decided to use a non detergent Castrol 30 wt oil. Date codes less than 18 months old. Plan was to switch to the expensive Redline MT90 after testing and after a few hundred miles. This 30 WT oil is often recommended by OD experts. I have built an electric variable speed rest rid to be able to test the transmission outside the car. Overdrive worked fine and transmission sounded OK and ran it for about 2 hours to get the temp up (52C on OD case) and hunt for leaks. So far so good. Then after a few days of standing, and 2 minutes of running, I drained the oil (to fix a leak) and was amazed to see that the oil had foamed badly and there were big classic fish eye bubbles on the surface of the oil. Ambient was about 14C. I did note that the oil coming out of the transmission was somewhat foamier than that from the overdrive drain plug. See enclosed pix. After standing overnight the oil looked normal again. What disturbs me is that unless I had drained the oil I would not have been aware of the foaming and put it into service .... Have now replaced with the MT90 that shows no sign of foaming on the dip stick. Wonder if others have any ideas about this weird phenomenon and is it a concern ? rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170128_122945.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 121928 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170127_210053.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 336102 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170127_210045.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 187940 bytes Desc: not available URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Fri Feb 24 11:02:06 2017 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 11:02:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Heat Shield Install I would like to replace the heat shields in the engine bay of my BJ8. Is it possible with the engine in place? There are three screws across the one on the fire wall how do I get to the middle one? Can the foot well pieces be accessed from below? Any words of wisdom or direction would be wonderful. Thanks in advance. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Feb 24 13:02:34 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 12:02:34 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Heat Shield Install References: <889A0377-D268-4526-BE91-9DF490CE0CA2@gmail.com> If you remove the intake and exhaust manifolds and the screws are not rusty then you can replace the side panel on the pedal box. The problem is the one behind the cylinder head on the firewall. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: R. Lindsay Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 10:02 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Heat Shield Install I would like to replace the heat shields in the engine bay of my BJ8. Is it possible with the engine in place? There are three screws across the one on the fire wall how do I get to the middle one? Can the foot well pieces be accessed from below? Any words of wisdom or direction would be wonderful. Thanks in advance. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Fri Feb 24 13:57:46 2017 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 20:57:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Trans oil foaming References: <8515F329CB4643728B47B2F3B9EA5C52@WINDOWST93OFP9> The detergent foams when agitated. It is designed to hold particles in suspension. It works well in engines not in the gear box. Use 30 wt non detergent or MT-90 by Redline. It has been said that the detergent attacks the brass parts in the gear box. Also that the foam lowers the oil pressure needed in the over drive valve. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Roger Grace Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 8:18 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Trans oil foaming I recently had the OD on my BJ8 apart to replace some parts ? bearing/accumulator/gaskets/O rings etc. For a first sort of sacrificial oil fill I decided to use a non detergent Castrol 30 wt oil. Date codes less than 18 months old. Plan was to switch to the expensive Redline MT90 after testing and after a few hundred miles. This 30 WT oil is often recommended by OD experts. I have built an electric variable speed rest rid to be able to test the transmission outside the car. Overdrive worked fine and transmission sounded OK and ran it for about 2 hours to get the temp up (52C on OD case) and hunt for leaks. So far so good. Then after a few days of standing, and 2 minutes of running, I drained the oil (to fix a leak) and was amazed to see that the oil had foamed badly and there were big classic fish eye bubbles on the surface of the oil. Ambient was about 14C. I did note that the oil coming out of the transmission was somewhat foamier than that from the overdrive drain plug. See enclosed pix. After standing overnight the oil looked normal again. What disturbs me is that unless I had drained the oil I would not have been aware of the foaming and put it into service .... Have now replaced with the MT90 that shows no sign of foaming on the dip stick. Wonder if others have any ideas about this weird phenomenon and is it a concern ? rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Fri Feb 24 14:16:52 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 13:16:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Trans oil foaming References: <8515F329CB4643728B47B2F3B9EA5C52@WINDOWST93OFP9> hMw0ctpmJdFL0hMw1csKxp This foaming is with NON detergent SAE 30 oil ... rg From: Richard Kahn Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 12:57 PM To: Healey List ; Roger Grace Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trans oil foaming The detergent foams when agitated. It is designed to hold particles in suspension. It works well in engines not in the gear box. Use 30 wt non detergent or MT-90 by Redline. It has been said that the detergent attacks the brass parts in the gear box. Also that the foam lowers the oil pressure needed in the over drive valve. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Healeys on behalf of Roger Grace Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 8:18 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Trans oil foaming I recently had the OD on my BJ8 apart to replace some parts ? bearing/accumulator/gaskets/O rings etc. For a first sort of sacrificial oil fill I decided to use a non detergent Castrol 30 wt oil. Date codes less than 18 months old. Plan was to switch to the expensive Redline MT90 after testing and after a few hundred miles. This 30 WT oil is often recommended by OD experts. I have built an electric variable speed rest rid to be able to test the transmission outside the car. Overdrive worked fine and transmission sounded OK and ran it for about 2 hours to get the temp up (52C on OD case) and hunt for leaks. So far so good. Then after a few days of standing, and 2 minutes of running, I drained the oil (to fix a leak) and was amazed to see that the oil had foamed badly and there were big classic fish eye bubbles on the surface of the oil. Ambient was about 14C. I did note that the oil coming out of the transmission was somewhat foamier than that from the overdrive drain plug. See enclosed pix. After standing overnight the oil looked normal again. What disturbs me is that unless I had drained the oil I would not have been aware of the foaming and put it into service .... Have now replaced with the MT90 that shows no sign of foaming on the dip stick. Wonder if others have any ideas about this weird phenomenon and is it a concern ? rg No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/14013 - Release Date: 02/24/17 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Fri Feb 24 16:42:28 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 18:42:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive While the subject of overdrives is being discussed, I have come across ongoing problems with the overdrive of my 66BJ8. The overdrive is filled with 30 WT non-detergent oil and after running the engine, for about an hour, with all 4 corners on jack stands, the trans oil level is spot on the line between "low" and "high". Now for the problems; 1. The overdrive does not disengage when turned off. The hole in the lever on the right side of the trans lines up with the hole in the case when the OD is activated. 2. When I turn the solenoid power off, the solenoid lever does not fall from the engaged position. I suspect the lever may be pushed against the trans case and the friction does not allow the lever to drop down. When I move the lever by hand, it is not loose, it requires some pressure to get it to move. The solenoid does not have a problem lifting the lever when I apply power. 3. I cannot get a wrench to fit the pinch bolt to release the lever from the valve operating shaft. What size nut/bolt "should the pinch bolt be? 3. The solenoid does not release when the dash or ignition switch is turned off, (checked with a volt meter). What could still be sending power to the solenoid? What electrical part should I check first and how? I have been struggling with trying to resolve this OD problem on and off during the winter and as the weather is now getting nice, I would like to get this resolved. Help!!!! Fred 63 BJ7 deceased 66 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwhlyadv at aol.com Fri Feb 24 17:03:19 2017 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 19:03:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? I am having the same problem so please share your findings. Jim Werner -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys Sent: Fri, Feb 24, 2017 3:47 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? Hmmm ... Didn't find any webmaster info, but the President's--Mark Schneider--phone# is on the 'Contact Us' page: 503-643-7208 I'd say this is an emergency; go straight to the top! Bob On 2/24/2017 2:10 AM, Bluehealey wrote: Team. This is a shout out to report a problem with the Austin Healey Club USA (Healey.org) website. I?m trying to renew my membership and the site isn?t accepting my username/password. I know they are correct as they are written down in my secrets stash and also cached in my Chrome browser. On trying to exercise the ?forgotten password? link, that also fails as the ?Captcha? applet appears to be broken too. Any suggestions what the quick and dirty might be to get membership renewed as it expired 3 days ago (according to my Outlook calendar) and I don?t want to miss my magazine fix? Cheers all. AlanB Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Image Type: image/png Size: 14962 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Feb 24 17:40:59 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 16:40:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive References: Fred, the solenoid will stay engaged when the switch is turned off until you accelerate beyond about 1? of pedal movement. The bolts on the overdrive adjustment are 7/16 or a 1/4 British which are almost the same size. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Fred Wescoe Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 3:42 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive While the subject of overdrives is being discussed, I have come across ongoing problems with the overdrive of my 66BJ8. The overdrive is filled with 30 WT non-detergent oil and after running the engine, for about an hour, with all 4 corners on jack stands, the trans oil level is spot on the line between "low" and "high". Now for the problems; 1. The overdrive does not disengage when turned off. The hole in the lever on the right side of the trans lines up with the hole in the case when the OD is activated. 2. When I turn the solenoid power off, the solenoid lever does not fall from the engaged position. I suspect the lever may be pushed against the trans case and the friction does not allow the lever to drop down. When I move the lever by hand, it is not loose, it requires some pressure to get it to move. The solenoid does not have a problem lifting the lever when I apply power. 3. I cannot get a wrench to fit the pinch bolt to release the lever from the valve operating shaft. What size nut/bolt "should the pinch bolt be? 3. The solenoid does not release when the dash or ignition switch is turned off, (checked with a volt meter). What could still be sending power to the solenoid? What electrical part should I check first and how? I have been struggling with trying to resolve this OD problem on and off during the winter and as the weather is now getting nice, I would like to get this resolved. Help!!!! Fred 63 BJ7 deceased 66 BJ8 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ghaywood at ec.rr.com Fri Feb 24 18:50:40 2017 From: ghaywood at ec.rr.com (George Haywood) Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2017 1:50:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Fred, It sounds like you may need to check the overdrive throttle switch on the firewall. If it is not activating (deactivating) or set properly the electrical circuit to the solenoid is not broken even though you turn off the dash switch. The throttle switch is designed to cut out power to the solenoid when the gas pedal is depressed I think about 1/5 or so of the way to full throttle. There is a procedure for that test in your shop manual. Take care, George Haywood '65 bj8 ---- Fred Wescoe wrote: > While the subject of overdrives is being discussed, I have come across > ongoing problems with the overdrive of my 66BJ8. > > The overdrive is filled with 30 WT non-detergent oil and after running the > engine, for about an hour, with all 4 corners on jack stands, the trans oil > level is spot on the line between "low" and "high". > > Now for the problems; > > 1. The overdrive does not disengage when turned off. The hole in the > lever on the right side of the trans lines up with the hole in the case > when the OD is activated. > > 2. When I turn the solenoid power off, the solenoid lever does not fall > from the engaged position. I suspect the lever may be pushed against the > trans case and the friction does not allow the lever to drop down. When I > move the lever by hand, it is not loose, it requires some pressure to get > it to move. The solenoid does not have a problem lifting the lever when I > apply power. > > 3. I cannot get a wrench to fit the pinch bolt to release the lever from > the valve operating shaft. What size nut/bolt "should the pinch bolt be? > > 3. The solenoid does not release when the dash or ignition switch is > turned off, (checked with a volt meter). What could still be sending power > to the solenoid? What electrical part should I check first and how? > > I have been struggling with trying to resolve this OD problem on and off > during the winter and as the weather is now getting nice, I would like to > get this resolved. > > Help!!!! > > Fred > > 63 BJ7 deceased > > 66 BJ8 From dcorning at ford.com Fri Feb 24 20:29:05 2017 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2017 03:29:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please References: <001d01d28694$05999a00$10ccce00$@homecall.co.uk> <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC70704C6C@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> My flasher was having trouble and flashing too fast on one side. I went to O'Rileys auto parts, bought a Novita EL12 flasher and swapped the guts into the Lucas can. Took my time opening the cans, fit perfect, flashes just right regardless of loads and it's brighter. (Had to tap the screw threads into the terminals) [cid:image005.png at 01D28EE5.04BA2A10] [cid:image006.png at 01D28EE5.04BA2A10] Best, Dan Corning From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed O'Neal Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 8:00 AM To: Simon Lachlan; 'Healey List' Cc: Pierre Henri Claret Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please This is a recreation of the BT7 wiring diagram in ladder logic format (there's one for positive ground and one for negative). The only difference is the reversing of the coil connections to maintain the same direction of current to the spark plugs. It is not accurate for a BJ8, but is accurate with respect to the "8-way flasher box relay", so maybe it can help you sort out the problem. Edward J. O'Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O'Neal Associates, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 phone: (239) 245-8728 cell: (239) 410-6174 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 2:29 AM To: 'Healey List' Cc: Pierre Henri Claret Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please BJ8 with combined side/indicators/brake lights. NOT the late phase II with the extra lights. So,...the relay. By this I mean the round silver can with 1 wire from P to the dash, 1 from B to the 35 amp feed & 1 from L to T8 on the dreaded 8-way flasher relay box. Now, the LHS indicators work and the RHS don't. Well, they've worked occasionally. My question is this:- If one side works, then the relay works?? There's no way that the relay can function on one side only? It sends current down one wire only, so, if the LHS works, then the relay is doing its job????? Right????? I remain very prepared to be confounded. My logic(?) usually fails when I'm in front of a wiring diagram. In fact, I would be thrilled just to be able to fix the problem with a cheap part. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.png Type: image/png Size: 381223 bytes Desc: image005.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 363706 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sat Feb 25 00:44:01 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2017 21:44:01 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] Purple Onion Healey Sad prognosis for the driver of the "Purple Onion" Healey: http://jacksonville.com/news/2017-02-21/veteran-race-car-driver-life-now-race-finish Rick Neville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drwit at hotmail.com Sat Feb 25 07:41:20 2017 From: drwit at hotmail.com (DAVID WITTMER) Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2017 14:41:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] AH Club USA - membership renewal. Help? References: <059801d28e86$35ed6d40$a1c847c0$@gmail.com> I also have had the same experience with membership renewal and have not been able to renew. Dave Wittmer Sent from my iPad Team. This is a shout out to report a problem with the Austin Healey Club USA (Healey.org) website. I?m trying to renew my membership and the site isn?t accepting my username/password. I know they are correct as they are written down in my secrets stash and also cached in my Chrome browser. On trying to exercise the ?forgotten password? link, that also fails as the ?Captcha? applet appears to be broken too. Any suggestions what the quick and dirty might be to get membership renewed as it expired 3 days ago (according to my Outlook calendar) and I don?t want to miss my magazine fix? Cheers all. AlanB [https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif] Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 14962 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Sat Feb 25 22:47:58 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2017 05:47:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please References: <001d01d28694$05999a00$10ccce00$@homecall.co.uk> <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC70704C6C@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local>, <68c2f245b02048f6b542af4fdb5e7b0f@naecmb26.exchange.ford.com> The flasher will flash faster if one of the lamps is out. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Corning, Dan (D.C.) Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2017 3:29:05 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please My flasher was having trouble and flashing too fast on one side. I went to O?Rileys auto parts, bought a Novita EL12 flasher and swapped the guts into the Lucas can. Took my time opening the cans, fit perfect, flashes just right regardless of loads and it?s brighter. (Had to tap the screw threads into the terminals) [cid:image005.png at 01D28EE5.04BA2A10] [cid:image006.png at 01D28EE5.04BA2A10] Best, Dan Corning From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed O'Neal Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 8:00 AM To: Simon Lachlan; 'Healey List' Cc: Pierre Henri Claret Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please This is a recreation of the BT7 wiring diagram in ladder logic format (there?s one for positive ground and one for negative). The only difference is the reversing of the coil connections to maintain the same direction of current to the spark plugs. It is not accurate for a BJ8, but is accurate with respect to the ?8-way flasher box relay?, so maybe it can help you sort out the problem. Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 phone: (239) 245-8728 cell: (239) 410-6174 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 2:29 AM To: 'Healey List' Cc: Pierre Henri Claret Subject: [Healeys] Flasher relay advice please BJ8 with combined side/indicators/brake lights. NOT the late phase II with the extra lights. So,?the relay. By this I mean the round silver can with 1 wire from P to the dash, 1 from B to the 35 amp feed & 1 from L to T8 on the dreaded 8-way flasher relay box. Now, the LHS indicators work and the RHS don?t. Well, they?ve worked occasionally. My question is this:- If one side works, then the relay works?? There?s no way that the relay can function on one side only? It sends current down one wire only, so, if the LHS works, then the relay is doing its job????? Right????? I remain very prepared to be confounded. My logic(?) usually fails when I?m in front of a wiring diagram. In fact, I would be thrilled just to be able to fix the problem with a cheap part. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.png Type: image/png Size: 381223 bytes Desc: image005.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 363706 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Feb 27 11:56:56 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2017 10:56:56 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Parts Listers, I have some used and new/leftover parts from a recent rebuild of my BJ8's engine. The used parts might be suitable for a 'budget build,' and I'm offering them free (you pick up shipping). The new parts are offered at a significant discount to retail (again, you pick up shipping). They include: Used: * Pistons (6) - These are 0.030" oversize, and are in remarkable shape (see attached photos of one that has been cleaned-up and one in 'original' condition, as are the 5 others). The wrist pins are perfect, but the ring lands might require a small shim. These performed well in my car until removed. Note only one was cleaned-up, but I see no evidence of damage on the other 5. * Valves (intake and exhaust) - The exhaust valves are stellite SS, and show no wear on the shaft--nor do the intake valves--which might require a slight polish only. The faces are fine, but with expected 'carbon' buildup. I have no idea if valves can or should be reused, but if they can these are perfect candidates (some of the seats had receded, but the valves showed minimal if any wear--I can't really tell). * Full set of springs (double type) - These might have lost some 'spring,' and were shimmed to beef them up (shims available). I tested the head on the bench, and all cylinders retained fluid except one, so it appears the springs were exerting sufficient pressure. * Bronze/silicon valve guides - These show no apparent wear and appear to be better quality than the new set I replaced them with. In over 100K miles I never had an issue with binding ('top hat' style seals available). * Valve collars (Moss# 031-228) - These show some wear, probably due to the springs rotating, but appear serviceable. New: * Main and con rod bearings (0.010" under) - I bought these a while ago expecting my crankshaft would need to be ground under, but it's still STD after almost 200K miles. These are high quality ACL 'Duraglide' brand from Australia. $50 * Moss Healey engine metallic green paint - Two cans at $10/ea (retail: $20.99). I'm only selling these because I already have a couple cans and this stuff degrades if not used within a year or two (BTW, my engine builder thought this paint was excellent, and wished he could find similar quality for the SBC, Hemi and other builds he does). * Intake/exhaust manifold brass nuts (10) - These retail for $5/ea. My engine builder reused the old ones before I could get these to him (he thought the used ones were fine). I've been told the ones Moss is currently offering are not exactly correct (FWIW). $25 for all 10. Usually, I'd chuck the used stuff, but thought I'd check and see if someone can make use of them. I'd keep the new stuff--'just in case'--but this is the last rebuild this engine will receive (from me, at least). Cheers, Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: piston1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 109952 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: piston2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 105302 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: piston3.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 101512 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Feb 27 20:26:53 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2017 19:26:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Parts References: The bearings are spoken for. Bob On 2/27/2017 10:56 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Listers, > > I have some used and new/leftover parts from a recent rebuild of my > BJ8's engine. The used parts might be suitable for a 'budget build,' > and I'm offering them free (you pick up shipping). The new parts are > offered at a significant discount to retail (again, you pick up > shipping). They include: > > Used: > > * Pistons (6) - These are 0.030" oversize, and are in remarkable > shape (see attached photos of one that has been cleaned-up and one > in 'original' condition, as are the 5 others). The wrist pins are > perfect, but the ring lands might require a small shim. These > performed well in my car until removed. Note only one was > cleaned-up, but I see no evidence of damage on the other 5. > * Valves (intake and exhaust) - The exhaust valves are stellite SS, > and show no wear on the shaft--nor do the intake valves--which > might require a slight polish only. The faces are fine, but with > expected 'carbon' buildup. I have no idea if valves can or should > be reused, but if they can these are perfect candidates (some of > the seats had receded, but the valves showed minimal if any > wear--I can't really tell). > * Full set of springs (double type) - These might have lost some > 'spring,' and were shimmed to beef them up (shims available). I > tested the head on the bench, and all cylinders retained fluid > except one, so it appears the springs were exerting sufficient > pressure. > * Bronze/silicon valve guides - These show no apparent wear and > appear to be better quality than the new set I replaced them > with. In over 100K miles I never had an issue with binding ('top > hat' style seals available). > * Valve collars (Moss# 031-228) - These show some wear, probably due > to the springs rotating, but appear serviceable. > > New: > > * Main and con rod bearings (0.010" under) - I bought these a while > ago expecting my crankshaft would need to be ground under, but > it's still STD after almost 200K miles. These are high quality > ACL 'Duraglide' brand from Australia. $50 > * Moss Healey engine metallic green paint - Two cans at $10/ea > (retail: $20.99). I'm only selling these because I already have a > couple cans and this stuff degrades if not used within a year or > two (BTW, my engine builder thought this paint was excellent, and > wished he could find similar quality for the SBC, Hemi and other > builds he does). > * Intake/exhaust manifold brass nuts (10) - These retail for $5/ea. > My engine builder reused the old ones before I could get these to > him (he thought the used ones were fine). I've been told the ones > Moss is currently offering are not exactly correct (FWIW). $25 > for all 10. > > Usually, I'd chuck the used stuff, but thought I'd check and see if > someone can make use of them. I'd keep the new stuff--'just in > case'--but this is the last rebuild this engine will receive (from me, > at least). > > Cheers, > > Bob > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Feb 27 23:32:03 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 17:32:03 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Greetings Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Tue Feb 28 00:17:28 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 17:17:28 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference References: <00ee01d2918c$618e2440$24aa6cc0$@tpg.com.au> ....what do you mean by 'within the groove' Patrick? Pulley diameter? If so do you mean cm rather than inches? Cheers Peter From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 4:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Greetings Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Feb 28 00:44:35 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 18:44:35 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference References: <00ee01d2918c$618e2440$24aa6cc0$@tpg.com.au> <0CB508A289BC4255836F126EAE7C45AA@Notebook> Hello Peter I am referring to the circumference within the narrowest point of the V section of the pulley. It?s measured in inches or all the way around the outside of the pulley, but at the narrowest point of the V. Hoo Roo Patrick From: Peter & Veronica [mailto:greylinn at ozemail.com.au] Sent: Tuesday, 28 February 2017 6:17 PM To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference ....what do you mean by 'within the groove' Patrick? Pulley diameter? If so do you mean cm rather than inches? Cheers Peter From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 4:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Greetings Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Tue Feb 28 01:24:26 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 18:24:26 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference References: <00ee01d2918c$618e2440$24aa6cc0$@tpg.com.au> <0CB508A289BC4255836F126EAE7C45AA@Notebook> Hi Patrick I don?t have a BN3 one to measure, but a 29D ex Mk1 circumference measures 295mm approx (approx 11.5?) at the bottom. Do you have the later narrow belt or the wider one off the 4 cylinder cars? Regards John Rowe Qld. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter & Veronica Sent: Tuesday, 28 February 2017 5:17 PM To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference ....what do you mean by 'within the groove' Patrick? Pulley diameter? If so do you mean cm rather than inches? Cheers Peter From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 4:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Greetings Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Feb 28 02:13:28 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 20:13:28 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference References: <00ee01d2918c$618e2440$24aa6cc0$@tpg.com.au> <0CB508A289BC4255836F126EAE7C45AA@Notebook> <000601d2919c$13aff4f0$3b0fded0$@com.au> Hello It?s a C26W or Wolseley six-cylinder engine with a standard 3/8 in wide belt. Hoo Roo Patrick From: John Rowe [mailto:john at jtkarowe.com.au] Sent: Tuesday, 28 February 2017 7:24 PM To: 'Peter & Veronica'; 'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Hi Patrick I don?t have a BN3 one to measure, but a 29D ex Mk1 circumference measures 295mm approx (approx 11.5?) at the bottom. Do you have the later narrow belt or the wider one off the 4 cylinder cars? Regards John Rowe Qld. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter & Veronica Sent: Tuesday, 28 February 2017 5:17 PM To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference ....what do you mean by 'within the groove' Patrick? Pulley diameter? If so do you mean cm rather than inches? Cheers Peter From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 4:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Greetings Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Feb 28 02:52:48 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 20:52:48 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference References: <00ee01d2918c$618e2440$24aa6cc0$@tpg.com.au> Hey Patrick, why don't you press the pulley off the old pump and reuse it on the new pump? The only repro water pumps I've bought are the BJ8 ones. They have a pulley that just looks totally wrong. Too big & square sided. Use the old one. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone > On 28 Feb. 2017, at 5:32 pm, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > > Greetings > > Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. > > I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. > > Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. > > Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. > > Many thanks > > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Feb 28 03:12:09 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 10:12:09 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference References: <00ee01d2918c$618e2440$24aa6cc0$@tpg.com.au> I?ve got 2 rebuilt ones here. One of each type, both narrow. Both off 6 cylinder cars. Early type 11&3/8? Later type 10&3/4? Not easy to measure though I did each a couple of times. Comments? Good luck with a County pump! From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: 28 February 2017 06:32 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Greetings Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Feb 28 14:09:07 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2017 13:09:07 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] LA Visit I'm going to be in LA April 1-5 and was wondering if there is any LBC stuff going on? I want to visit the refurbished Petersen Museum, but what else? I'll be staying in the San Fernado Valley. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Feb 28 18:35:27 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2017 12:35:27 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference References: <00ee01d2918c$618e2440$24aa6cc0$@tpg.com.au> <9595A767-077E-40BE-843B-D8D8E9848E4B@gmail.com> <002001d291b2$f2ba5670$d82f0350$@homecall.co.uk> <256104F4-B23C-4BA5-B4AA-53BB6B4F6739@gmail.com> Hello I have found out that the pulley circumference on the very early C-series engines is larger. It was changed soon after the first six-cylinder BMC cars were released on the market. The engine fitted to our car is within the first 1,000 C-series engines built and was supplied to the Donald Healey Motor Company for their attention. Believe me I would have preferred to rebuild the original pump, but a new impeller could not be found. If someone has one I would be very interested. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, 1 March 2017 12:27 PM To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Very comprehensive article Simon! I bought a new pump back in 1998 when the car was rebuilt. When it failed in 2013, I dug out the original pump and rebuilt it, following the Mike Salter instructions. I found a NOS bearing, and used a modern seal. The critical dimension is the impeller to body clearance of 20 thou. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 28 Feb. 2017, at 10:08 pm, Simon Lachlan wrote: Good idea, assuming it?s the press-on type. Certainly, I?ve been led to believe that the County pumps are pretty awful and, when my pump started to play up, I went the rebuild route. Didn?t seem worth putting in a suspect part, especially one that is so vital. Interestingly, when I was looking for pump bodies/pulleys that I could rebuild, I was given a couple by a friend. Both were County; he?s on his third now. I wrote an article for our local club?.waste of print as few, if any, of them lift a spanner. However, I attach it herewith. You?ll see that I rely heavily on Mike Salter?s good offices ie for info and for parts. NOS pumps go for a fortune over here, unless you get one for a Wolseley or Westie or the like. Then just swap the pulley. See article for more on that???but I?d guess both of you are pretty skilled at scavenging from those old BMC saloons that our American friends wouldn?t recognize if they were parked on their lawn! Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock Sent: 28 February 2017 09:53 To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Pulley Circumference Hey Patrick, why don't you press the pulley off the old pump and reuse it on the new pump? The only repro water pumps I've bought are the BJ8 ones. They have a pulley that just looks totally wrong. Too big & square sided. Use the old one. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 28 Feb. 2017, at 5:32 pm, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Greetings Today the new six-cylinder water pump for the BN3 arrived from AH Spares. I have noticed that the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the new pump is 11 ? inches, while the ?within-the-groove? circumference of the old (original) pump is 14 inches. Apart from the pump running a little faster I can?t see that it will make for any other differences. Does anyone have a pump they can conveniently measure please? Plus any comments would be appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: