Subject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problems

From: "MadMarx" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 10:45:29 +0200

Could there any trouble with the pressure relive valve?
I'm not familiar with the 6 pot engines.

Chris

-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]] Im
Auftrag von Andrew Packard
Gesendet: Sonntag, 15. September 2013 02:56
An: 6 Digest; [email-masked]
Betreff: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problems

Hello Triumph problem solvers.

I nearly have my TR250 ready for Triumphest/VTR after an engine rebuild.
I'm trying to solve a problem now with maintaining consistent oil pressure.
When I first ran the car after the rebuild, the 20 minutes at 2000 rpm
start, I had Castrol 5W30 and ZDDP additive.  After the engine really got up
to temperature, I had trouble with maintaining oil pressure, dropping way
down close to zero at idle.  A mechanic friend of mine checked it out with
me and with the rocker cover off, we saw little flow at the rockers at idle.
I had an external oiling line on my shelf so I added that and saw very good
flow at start up when oil pressure was about 65 and settled down to just
under 50 as it started to get warm, but continued to drop to the same near
zero level once it was at temperature.  

Today I changed the oil to 20W50 Castrol with Lucas ZDDP break-in additive.
Same symptoms.  I drove the car about four miles near my house and at
temperature, I was running at 20-25 psi when driving, dropping to near zero
at stop signs.  When I arrived home, I removed the quite hot valve cover oil
fill cap and started the car.  Very little oil was dancing around, if any,
at idle.  I revved the car a bit and saw sufficient oil flowing and
splattering in there.  

Now I don't know what to do.  I have the braided oil pressure line from TSI.
I don't think my gauge is bad with oil flow symptoms consistent with the
pressure readings.  Could the oil pressure regulator be an issue?  Mine is
relatively new from BPNW.  I do have a second one I could swap in.  The oil
pump was new with the rebuild.  

Any advice or guidance is appreciated.  

Andy Packard
CD6746L
President - Triumph Travelers
Autocross Chair - 2013 Triumphest/VTR

_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 11:13:46 -0400 (EDT)

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-----Original Message-----
From: robertten1 <[email-masked]>
To: tr4racing <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sun, Sep 15, 2013 11:11 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problems

Did you replace the Oil Pressure Releif Valve and its Spring ?  I would fir=
st hook up a mechanical test pressure guage at the Oil Pressure Switch in t=
he block and see what readings you get.  Worse case ... the Pump could be a=
t fault.  Lastly are you running the cannister filter or a spin on oil filt=
er?
=20
Best o Luck
Bob T

-----Original Message-----
From: MadMarx <[email-masked]>
To: 'Andrew Packard' <[email-masked]>; '6 Digest' <[email-masked]=
>; fot <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sun, Sep 15, 2013 5:53 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problems

Could there any trouble with the pressure relive valve?
'm not familiar with the 6 pot engines.
Chris
-----Urspr=C3=BCngliche Nachricht-----
on: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]] Im
uftrag von Andrew Packard
esendet: Sonntag, 15. September 2013 02:56
n: 6 Digest; [email-masked]
etreff: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problems
Hello Triumph problem solvers.
I nearly have my TR250 ready for Triumphest/VTR after an engine rebuild.
'm trying to solve a problem now with maintaining consistent oil pressure.
hen I first ran the car after the rebuild, the 20 minutes at 2000 rpm
tart, I had Castrol 5W30 and ZDDP additive.  After the engine really got up
o temperature, I had trouble with maintaining oil pressure, dropping way
own close to zero at idle.  A mechanic friend of mine checked it out with
e and with the rocker cover off, we saw little flow at the rockers at idle.
 had an external oiling line on my shelf so I added that and saw very good
low at start up when oil pressure was about 65 and settled down to just
nder 50 as it started to get warm, but continued to drop to the same near
ero level once it was at temperature. =20
Today I changed the oil to 20W50 Castrol with Lucas ZDDP break-in additive.
ame symptoms.  I drove the car about four miles near my house and at
emperature, I was running at 20-25 psi when driving, dropping to near zero
t stop signs.  When I arrived home, I removed the quite hot valve cover oil
ill cap and started the car.  Very little oil was dancing around, if any,
t idle.  I revved the car a bit and saw sufficient oil flowing and
plattering in there. =20
Now I don't know what to do.  I have the braided oil pressure line from TSI=
.
 don't think my gauge is bad with oil flow symptoms consistent with the
ressure readings.  Could the oil pressure regulator be an issue?  Mine is
elatively new from BPNW.  I do have a second one I could swap in.  The oil
ump was new with the rebuild. =20
Any advice or guidance is appreciated. =20
Andy Packard
D6746L
resident - Triumph Travelers
utocross Chair - 2013 Triumphest/VTR

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<br>
<br>

<div style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,helvetica; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">=
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: robertten1 &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: tr4racing &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Sent: Sun, Sep 15, 2013 11:11 am<br>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problems<=
br>
<br>

<div id=3DAOLMsgPart_1_4979068e-1634-48ea-aee2-2ff1000075f8><FONT color=3Db=
lack size=3D2 face=3Darial>

<div>Did you replace the Oil Pressure Releif Valve and its Spring ?&nbsp; I=
 would first hook up a mechanical test pressure guage at the Oil Pressure S=
witch in the block and see what readings you get.&nbsp; Worse case ... the =
Pump could be at fault.&nbsp; Lastly are you running the cannister filter o=
r a spin on oil filter?</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>Best o Luck</div>

<div>Bob T<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>

<div style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,helvetica; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">=
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: MadMarx &lt;<A href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">tr4racing@goo=
glemail.com</A>&gt;<br>
To: 'Andrew Packard' &lt;<A href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">apackard68@a=
tt.net</A>&gt;; '6 Digest' &lt;<A href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">6pac=
[email-masked]</A>&gt;; fot &lt;<A href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">fot=
@autox.team.net</A>&gt;<br>
Sent: Sun, Sep 15, 2013 5:53 am<br>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problems<=
br>
<br>

<div style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff; MARGIN: 0px; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma, Ver=
dana, Arial, Sans-Serif; COLOR: #000; FONT-SIZE: 12px" id=3DAOLMsgPart_0_c3=
d2986c-fe2d-466f-be96-d821e3eb03d2><PRE style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 9pt"><TT>Could =
there any trouble with the pressure relive valve?
I'm not familiar with the 6 pot engines.

Chris

-----Urspr=C3=BCngliche Nachricht-----
Von: <A>[email-masked]</A> [<A>mailto:[email-masked]=
t</A>] Im
Auftrag von Andrew Packard
Gesendet: Sonntag, 15. September 2013 02:56
An: 6 Digest; <A>[email-masked]</A>
Betreff: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problems

I nearly have my TR250 ready for Triumphest/VTR after an engine rebuild.
I'm trying to solve a problem now with maintaining consistent oil pressure.
When I first ran the car after the rebuild, the 20 minutes at 2000 rpm
start, I had Castrol 5W30 and ZDDP additive.  After the engine really got u=
p
to temperature, I had trouble with maintaining oil pressure, dropping way
down close to zero at idle.  A mechanic friend of mine checked it out with
me and with the rocker cover off, we saw little flow at the rockers at idle=
.
I had an external oiling line on my shelf so I added that and saw very good
flow at start up when oil pressure was about 65 and settled down to just
under 50 as it started to get warm, but continued to drop to the same near
zero level once it was at temperature. =20

Today I changed the oil to 20W50 Castrol with Lucas ZDDP break-in additive.
Same symptoms.  I drove the car about four miles near my house and at
temperature, I was running at 20-25 psi when driving, dropping to near zero
at stop signs.  When I arrived home, I removed the quite hot valve cover oi=
l
fill cap and started the car.  Very little oil was dancing around, if any,
at idle.  I revved the car a bit and saw sufficient oil flowing and
splattering in there. =20

Now I don't know what to do.  I have the braided oil pressure line from TSI=
.
I don't think my gauge is bad with oil flow symptoms consistent with the
pressure readings.  Could the oil pressure regulator be an issue?  Mine is
relatively new from BPNW.  I do have a second one I could swap in.  The oil
pump was new with the rebuild. =20

Any advice or guidance is appreciated. =20

Andy Packard
CD6746L

_______________________________________________
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<A>http://www.fot-racing.com</A>

Archive: <A>http://www.team.net/archive</A>
Forums: <A>http://www.team.net/forums</A>
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Archive: <A>http://www.team.net/archive</A>
Forums: <A>http://www.team.net/forums</A>
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</TT></PRE></div>
</div>
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</div>
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From: Duncan Charlton <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 14:56:10 -0500

--===============0660493538==

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	charset=iso-8859-1

I'm not sure that's worst case -- the bearings, either crank or cam =
bearings, could have too much clearance and that would require a full =
teardown, ye that doesn't seem likely if the engine rebuilder followed =
long-established practices.  One other item that hasn't been mentioned =
yet -- are you using an oil cooler with a thermostatic valve?  If it was =
installed improperly perhaps there's a way it could rob pressure from =
the system when the oil heats up and the valve opens.

Duncan
(Texas)

On Sep 15, 2013, at 10:13 AM, [email-masked] wrote:

> Subject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure =
problems
>=20
> Did you replace the Oil Pressure Releif Valve and its Spring ?  I =
would first hook up a mechanical test pressure guage at the Oil Pressure =
Switch in the block and see what readings you get.  Worse case ... the =
Pump could be at fault.  Lastly are you running the cannister filter or =
a spin on oil filter?
> To: 'Andrew Packard' <[email-masked]>; '6 Digest' =
<[email-masked]>; fot <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure =
problems
> -----Urspr=FCngliche Nachricht-----
> I nearly have my TR250 ready for Triumphest/VTR after an engine =
rebuild.
> I'm trying to solve a problem now with maintaining consistent oil =
pressure.
> start, I had Castrol 5W30 and ZDDP additive.  After the engine really =
got up
> to temperature, I had trouble with maintaining oil pressure, dropping =
way
> down close to zero at idle.  A mechanic friend of mine checked it out =
with
> me and with the rocker cover off, we saw little flow at the rockers at =
idle.
> I had an external oiling line on my shelf so I added that and saw very =
good
> flow at start up when oil pressure was about 65 and settled down to =
just
> under 50 as it started to get warm, but continued to drop to the same =
near
> Today I changed the oil to 20W50 Castrol with Lucas ZDDP break-in =
additive.
> temperature, I was running at 20-25 psi when driving, dropping to near =
zero
> at stop signs.  When I arrived home, I removed the quite hot valve =
cover oil
> fill cap and started the car.  Very little oil was dancing around, if =
any,
> Now I don't know what to do.  I have the braided oil pressure line =
from TSI.
> I don't think my gauge is bad with oil flow symptoms consistent with =
the
> pressure readings.  Could the oil pressure regulator be an issue?  =
Mine is
> relatively new from BPNW.  I do have a second one I could swap in.  =
The oil
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=iso-8859-1

<html><head></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">I'm =
not sure that's worst case -- the bearings, either crank or cam =
bearings, could have too much clearance and that would require a full =
teardown, ye that doesn't seem likely if the engine rebuilder followed =
long-established practices. &nbsp;One other item that hasn't been =
mentioned yet -- are you using an oil cooler with a thermostatic valve? =
&nbsp;If it was installed improperly perhaps there's a way it could rob =
pressure from the system when the oil heats up and the valve =
opens.<div><br></div><div>Duncan</div><div>(Texas)</div><div><br></div><di=
v><br><div><div>On Sep 15, 2013, at 10:13 AM, <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><font color=3D"black" size=3D"2" face=3D"arial"><br>
<br>
<br>

<div style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,helvetica; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: =
10pt">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: robertten1 &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
To: tr4racing &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<=
br>
Sent: Sun, Sep 15, 2013 11:11 am<br>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure =
problems<br>
<br>

<div id=3D"AOLMsgPart_1_4979068e-1634-48ea-aee2-2ff1000075f8"><font =
color=3D"black" size=3D"2" face=3D"arial">

<div>Did you replace the Oil Pressure Releif Valve and its Spring =
?&nbsp; I would first hook up a mechanical test pressure guage at the =
Oil Pressure Switch in the block and see what readings you get.&nbsp; =
Worse case ... the Pump could be at fault.&nbsp; Lastly are you running =
the cannister filter or a spin on oil filter?</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>Best o Luck</div>

<div>Bob T<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>

<div style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,helvetica; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: =
10pt">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: MadMarx &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<=
br>
To: 'Andrew Packard' &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;; '6 =
Digest' &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;; fot =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
Sent: Sun, Sep 15, 2013 5:53 am<br>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure =
problems<br>
<br>

<div style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff; MARGIN: 0px; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma, =
Verdana, Arial, Sans-Serif; COLOR: #000; FONT-SIZE: 12px" =
id=3D"AOLMsgPart_0_c3d2986c-fe2d-466f-be96-d821e3eb03d2"><pre =
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 9pt"><tt>Could there any trouble with the pressure =
relive valve?
I'm not familiar with the 6 pot engines.

Chris

-----Urspr=FCngliche Nachricht-----
Von: <a>[email-masked]</a> =
[<a>mailto:[email-masked]</a>] Im
Auftrag von Andrew Packard
Gesendet: Sonntag, 15. September 2013 02:56
An: 6 Digest; <a>[email-masked]</a>
Betreff: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problems

I nearly have my TR250 ready for Triumphest/VTR after an engine rebuild.
I'm trying to solve a problem now with maintaining consistent oil =
pressure.
When I first ran the car after the rebuild, the 20 minutes at 2000 rpm
start, I had Castrol 5W30 and ZDDP additive.  After the engine really =
got up
to temperature, I had trouble with maintaining oil pressure, dropping =
way
down close to zero at idle.  A mechanic friend of mine checked it out =
with
me and with the rocker cover off, we saw little flow at the rockers at =
idle.
I had an external oiling line on my shelf so I added that and saw very =
good
flow at start up when oil pressure was about 65 and settled down to just
under 50 as it started to get warm, but continued to drop to the same =
near
zero level once it was at temperature. =20

Today I changed the oil to 20W50 Castrol with Lucas ZDDP break-in =
additive.
Same symptoms.  I drove the car about four miles near my house and at
temperature, I was running at 20-25 psi when driving, dropping to near =
zero
at stop signs.  When I arrived home, I removed the quite hot valve cover =
oil
fill cap and started the car.  Very little oil was dancing around, if =
any,
at idle.  I revved the car a bit and saw sufficient oil flowing and
splattering in there. =20

Now I don't know what to do.  I have the braided oil pressure line from =
TSI.
I don't think my gauge is bad with oil flow symptoms consistent with the
pressure readings.  Could the oil pressure regulator be an issue?  Mine =
is
relatively new from BPNW.  I do have a second one I could swap in.  The =
oil
pump was new with the rebuild. =20

Andy Packard
CD6746L

_______________________________________________
<a>[email-masked]</a>

<a>http://www.fot-racing.com</a>

Archive: <a>http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a>http://www.team.net/forums</a>
=
<a>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]</a>

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Archive: <a>http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a>http://www.team.net/forums</a>
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</tt></pre></div>
</div>
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</div>
</font>_______________________________________________<br><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br><br>http://ww=
w.fot-racing.com<br><br>Donate: =
http://www.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: =
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br><br></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>=

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From: Bob Bownes -Seiri <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 17:57:26 -0400

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	charset=utf-8
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Or, worst case, an oil cooler that was hooked back up after an engine meltdo=
wn. Don't ask how I know about this one...

On Sep 15, 2013, at 15:56, Duncan Charlton <[email-masked]> wro=
te:

> I'm not sure that's worst case -- the bearings, either crank or cam bearin=
gs, could have too much clearance and that would require a full teardown, ye=
 that doesn't seem likely if the engine rebuilder followed long-established p=
ractices.  One other item that hasn't been mentioned yet -- are you using an=
 oil cooler with a thermostatic valve?  If it was installed improperly perha=
ps there's a way it could rob pressure from the system when the oil heats up=
 and the valve opens.
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problem=
s
>>=20
>> Did you replace the Oil Pressure Releif Valve and its Spring ?  I would f=
irst hook up a mechanical test pressure guage at the Oil Pressure Switch in t=
he block and see what readings you get.  Worse case ... the Pump could be at=
 fault.  Lastly are you running the cannister filter or a spin on oil filter=
?
>> To: 'Andrew Packard' <[email-masked]>; '6 Digest' <[email-masked]=
et>; fot <[email-masked]>
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problem=
s
>> I'm trying to solve a problem now with maintaining consistent oil pressur=
e.
>> start, I had Castrol 5W30 and ZDDP additive.  After the engine really got=
 up
>> to temperature, I had trouble with maintaining oil pressure, dropping way=

>> down close to zero at idle.  A mechanic friend of mine checked it out wit=
h
>> me and with the rocker cover off, we saw little flow at the rockers at id=
le.
>> I had an external oiling line on my shelf so I added that and saw very go=
od
>> under 50 as it started to get warm, but continued to drop to the same nea=
r
>> Today I changed the oil to 20W50 Castrol with Lucas ZDDP break-in additiv=
e.
>> temperature, I was running at 20-25 psi when driving, dropping to near ze=
ro
>> at stop signs.  When I arrived home, I removed the quite hot valve cover o=
il
>> fill cap and started the car.  Very little oil was dancing around, if any=
,
>> Now I don't know what to do.  I have the braided oil pressure line from T=
SI.
>> pressure readings.  Could the oil pressure regulator be an issue?  Mine i=
s
>> relatively new from BPNW.  I do have a second one I could swap in.  The o=
il
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertten1@=
aol.com
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.char=
[email-masked]
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes@web9.=
com

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>Or, worst case, an oil cooler that was=
 hooked back up after an engine meltdown. Don't ask how I know about this on=
e...</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br>On Sep 15, 2013, at 15:56, D=
uncan Charlton &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">duncan.cha=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div=
>I'm not sure that's worst case -- the bearings, either crank or cam bearing=
s, could have too much clearance and that would require a full teardown, ye t=
hat doesn't seem likely if the engine rebuilder followed long-established pr=
actices. &nbsp;One other item that hasn't been mentioned yet -- are you usin=
g an oil cooler with a thermostatic valve? &nbsp;If it was installed imprope=
rly perhaps there's a way it could rob pressure from the system when the oil=
 heats up and the valve opens.<div><br></div><div>Duncan</div><div>(Texas)</=
div><div><br></div><div><br><div><div>On Sep 15, 2013, at 10:13 AM, <a href=3D=
"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> wrote:</div><br class=3D"=
Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote type=3D"cite"><font color=3D"black" s=
ize=3D"2" face=3D"arial"><br>
<br>
<br>

<div style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,helvetica; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">-=
----Original Message-----<br>
From: robertten1 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
m</a>&gt;<br>
To: tr4racing &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">tr4racing@goog=
lemail.com</a>&gt;<br>
Sent: Sun, Sep 15, 2013 11:11 am<br>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problems<b=
r>
<br>

<div id=3D"AOLMsgPart_1_4979068e-1634-48ea-aee2-2ff1000075f8"><font color=3D=
"black" size=3D"2" face=3D"arial">

<div>Did you replace the Oil Pressure Releif Valve and its Spring ?&nbsp; I w=
ould first hook up a mechanical test pressure guage at the Oil Pressure Swit=
ch in the block and see what readings you get.&nbsp; Worse case ... the Pump=
 could be at fault.&nbsp; Lastly are you running the cannister filter or a s=
pin on oil filter?</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>Best o Luck</div>

<div>Bob T<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>

<div style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,helvetica; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">-=
----Original Message-----<br>
From: MadMarx &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">tr4racing@goog=
lemail.com</a>&gt;<br>
To: 'Andrew Packard' &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">apackard68@at=
t.net</a>&gt;; '6 Digest' &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">6pack@=
autox.team.net</a>&gt;; fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">fot@au=
tox.team.net</a>&gt;<br>
Sent: Sun, Sep 15, 2013 5:53 am<br>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problems<b=
r>
<br>

<div style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff; MARGIN: 0px; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma, Verd=
ana, Arial, Sans-Serif; COLOR: #000; FONT-SIZE: 12px" id=3D"AOLMsgPart_0_c3d=
2986c-fe2d-466f-be96-d821e3eb03d2"><pre style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 9pt"><tt>Could t=
here any trouble with the pressure relive valve?
I'm not familiar with the 6 pot engines.

Chris

-----Urspr=C3=BCngliche Nachricht-----
Von: <a>[email-masked]</a> [<a>mailto:[email-masked]=
</a>] Im

I nearly have my TR250 ready for Triumphest/VTR after an engine rebuild.
I'm trying to solve a problem now with maintaining consistent oil pressure.
When I first ran the car after the rebuild, the 20 minutes at 2000 rpm
start, I had Castrol 5W30 and ZDDP additive.  After the engine really got up=

to temperature, I had trouble with maintaining oil pressure, dropping way
down close to zero at idle.  A mechanic friend of mine checked it out with
me and with the rocker cover off, we saw little flow at the rockers at idle.=

Today I changed the oil to 20W50 Castrol with Lucas ZDDP break-in additive.
Same symptoms.  I drove the car about four miles near my house and at
temperature, I was running at 20-25 psi when driving, dropping to near zero
at stop signs.  When I arrived home, I removed the quite hot valve cover oil=

Now I don't know what to do.  I have the braided oil pressure line from TSI.=

Andy Packard
CD6746L

aol.com</a>

</tt></pre></div>
</div>
</font></div>
</div>
</font>_______________________________________________<br><a href=3D"mailto:=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br><br><a href=3D"http://www.fot-=
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s: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>=
[email-masked]">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.c=
[email-masked]</a><br><br><br></blockquote></div><br></div></div></bloc=
kquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><span>________________________________=
_______________</span><br><span><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">fot@au=
tox.team.net</a></span><br><span></span><br><span><a href=3D"http://www.fot-=
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onate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donat=
e.html</a></span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">=
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om">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]</a></span><br>=
<span></span><br><span></span><br></div></blockquote></body></html>=

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---

From: DuaneBailey <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 20:54:26 -0400

--===============0299986880==
	boundary=Apple-Mail-1B22E7FF-FF00-48EB-B93E-C227392E40CD
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--Apple-Mail-1B22E7FF-FF00-48EB-B93E-C227392E40CD
	charset=utf-8
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I assume you didn't bore the block & install cam bearings. Your problem is e=
xcessive clearence beween the cam & block & that is bleeding off all your oi=
l pressure. I will not rebuild a race or street 6 cyl engine without boring t=
he block & installing cam bearings. The bearings for a mk2/3 Spit work perfe=
ctly.

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 15, 2013, at 3:56 PM, Duncan Charlton <[email-masked]> w=

s
s
e.
 up

h
le.
od
r
e.
ro
il
,
SI.
s
il
aol.com
[email-masked]
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dbailey_wmi@=
yahoo.com

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	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>I assume you didn't bore the block &am=
p; install cam bearings. Your problem is excessive clearence beween the cam &=
amp; block &amp; that is bleeding off all your oil pressure. I will not rebu=
ild a race or street 6 cyl engine without boring the block &amp; installing c=
am bearings. The bearings for a mk2/3 Spit work perfectly.<br><br>Sent from m=
y iPad</div><div><br>On Sep 15, 2013, at 3:56 PM, Duncan Charlton &lt;<a hre=
f=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;=
 wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>I'm not sure that's wors=
t case -- the bearings, either crank or cam bearings, could have too much cl=
earance and that would require a full teardown, ye that doesn't seem likely i=
f the engine rebuilder followed long-established practices. &nbsp;One other i=
tem that hasn't been mentioned yet -- are you using an oil cooler with a the=
rmostatic valve? &nbsp;If it was installed improperly perhaps there's a way i=
t could rob pressure from the system when the oil heats up and the valve ope=
ns.<div><br></div><div>Duncan</div><div>(Texas)</div><div><br></div><div><br=
><div><div>On Sep 15, 2013, at 10:13 AM, <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
m">[email-masked]</a> wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline=
"><blockquote type=3D"cite"><font color=3D"black" size=3D"2" face=3D"arial">=
<br>
<br>
<br>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>Best o Luck</div>

<div>Bob T<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>

Chris

-----Urspr=C3=BCngliche Nachricht-----

Andy Packard
CD6746L

</tt></pre></div>
</div>
</font></div>
</div>
e/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dbailey_wmi@y=
ahoo.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]</a=
></span><br><span></span><br><span></span><br></div></blockquote></body></ht=
ml>=

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---

From: EDWARD BARNARD <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 20:40:59 -0700 (PDT)

--===============2053857865==

---1964014314-1294360504-1379302859=:86898
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Group:=0AI will throw my 2 cents in. Had the same problem with a customers =
engine. He had someone build an engine which then showed your symptoms. The=
 builder rebuilt it again, only to have the same symptoms again. This is wh=
en he came to me. I thought cam bearings (lack of) for sure and tore the mo=
tor down. Took it to the shop to be vatted and have bearings installed, onl=
y to have the machinest call and tell me that there was a crack in the bloc=
k through the oil passage on one of the crank mains.=A0 A replacement block=
 solved the issue. The pump created enough pressure at rpm, but not at idle=
. The oil just pumps back into the sump. Similar to having the pressure rel=
ief valve stuck open just a little, like if something is stuck in the valve=
. Check the valve first...look into the passage for anything preventing it =
from closing all the way. Hard to get down there with the engine in the car=
.=0AKeep us informed.=0A-Ed-=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A F=
rom: DuaneBailey <[email-masked]>=0ATo: Duncan Charlton <duncan.char=
[email-masked]> =0ACc: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]> =0ASent:=
 Sunday, September 15, 2013 7:54 PM=0ASubject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250=
 engine rebuild oil pressure problems=0A  =0A=0A=0AI assume you didn't bore=
 the block & install cam bearings. Your problem is excessive clearence bewe=
en the cam & block & that is bleeding off all your oil pressure. I will not=
 rebuild a race or street 6 cyl engine without boring the block & installin=
g cam bearings. The bearings for a mk2/3 Spit work perfectly.=0A=0ASent fro=
m my iPad=0A=0AOn Sep 15, 2013, at 3:56 PM, Duncan Charlton <duncan.charlto=
[email-masked]> wrote:=0A=0A=0AI'm not sure that's worst case -- the bearing=
s, either crank or cam bearings, could have too much clearance and that wou=
ld require a full teardown, ye that doesn't seem likely if the engine rebui=
lder followed long-established practices. =A0One other item that hasn't bee=
n mentioned yet -- are you using an oil cooler with a thermostatic valve? =
=A0If it was installed improperly perhaps there's a way it could rob pressu=
re from the system when the oil heats up and the valve opens.=0A>=0A>=0A>Du=
ncan=0A>(Texas)=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>On Sep 15, 2013, at 10:13 AM, robertten1=
@aol.com wrote:=0A>=0A>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>-----Original Message-----=0A>>F=
rom: robertten1 <[email-masked]>=0A>>To: tr4racing <tr4racing@googlemai=
l.com>=0A>>Sent: Sun, Sep 15, 2013 11:11 am=0A>>Subject: Re: [Fot] Help nee=
ded, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problems=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>Did you repla=
ce the Oil Pressure Releif Valve and its Spring ?=A0 I would first hook up =
a mechanical test pressure guage at the Oil Pressure Switch in the block an=
d see what readings you get.=A0 Worse case ... the Pump could be at fault.=
=A0 Lastly are you running the cannister filter or a spin on oil filter? =
=0A>>=0A>>Best o Luck =0A>>Bob T=0A>>=0A>>=0A>> =0A>>-----Original Message-=
----=0A>>From: MadMarx <[email-masked]>=0A>>To: 'Andrew Packard' =
<[email-masked]>; '6 Digest' <[email-masked]>; fot <[email-masked]=
m.net>=0A>>Sent: Sun, Sep 15, 2013 5:53 am=0A>>Subject: Re: [Fot] Help need=
ed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problems=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>Could there an=
y trouble with the pressure relive valve?=0AI'm not familiar with the 6 pot=
 engines. Chris -----Urspr=FCngliche Nachricht-----=0AVon: fot-bounces@auto=
x.team.net [mailto:[email-masked]] Im=0AAuftrag von Andrew Pack=
ard=0AGesendet: Sonntag, 15. September 2013 02:56=0AAn: 6 Digest; fot@autox=
.team.net Betreff: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure pro=
blems Hello Triumph problem solvers. I nearly have my TR250 ready for Trium=
phest/VTR after an engine rebuild.=0AI'm trying to solve a problem now with=
 maintaining consistent oil pressure.=0AWhen I first ran the car after the =
rebuild, the 20 minutes at 2000 rpm=0Astart, I had Castrol 5W30 and ZDDP ad=
ditive.  After the engine really got up=0Ato temperature, I had trouble wit=
h maintaining oil pressure, dropping way=0Adown close to zero at idle.  A m=
echanic friend of mine checked it out with=0Ame and with the rocker cover o=
ff, we saw little flow at the rockers at idle.=0AI had an external oiling l=
ine on my shelf so I added that and saw very good=0Aflow at start up when o=
il pressure was about 65 and settled down to just=0Aunder 50 as it started =
to get warm, but continued to drop to the same near=0Azero level once it wa=
s at temperature.   Today I changed the oil to 20W50 Castrol with Lucas ZDD=
P break-in additive.=0ASame symptoms.  I drove the car about four miles nea=
r my house and at=0Atemperature, I was running at 20-25 psi when driving, d=
ropping to near zero=0Aat stop signs.  When I arrived home, I removed the q=
uite hot valve cover oil=0Afill cap and started the car.  Very little oil w=
as dancing around, if any,=0Aat idle.  I revved the car a bit and saw suffi=
cient oil flowing and=0Asplattering in there.   Now I don't know what to do=
.  I have the braided oil pressure line from TSI.=0AI don't think my gauge =
is bad with oil flow symptoms consistent with the=0Apressure readings.  Cou=
ld the oil pressure regulator be an issue?  Mine is=0Arelatively new from B=
PNW.  I do have a second one I could swap in.  The oil=0Apump was new with =
the rebuild.   Any advice or guidance is appreciated.   Andy Packard=0ACD67=
46L=0APresident - Triumph Travelers=0AAutocross Chair - 2013 Triumphest/VTR=
 _______________________________________________ [email-masked] http://=
www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://=
www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage:=
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked] _______=
________________________________________ [email-masked] http://www.fot-=
racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team=
.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://=
autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]     _________________=
______________________________=0A>>[email-masked]=0A>>=0A>>http://www.f=
ot-racing.com/=0A>>=0A>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html=0A>>Archive=
: http://www.team.net/archive=0A>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums=0A>>Un=
subscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton=
[email-masked]=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>=0A_________________________________________=
______=0A>[email-masked]=0A>=0A>http://www.fot-racing.com/=0A>=0A>Donat=
e: http://www.team.net/donate.html=0A>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive=
=0A>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums=0A>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A__________=
_____________________________________=[email-masked]=0A=0Ahttp://www.=
fot-racing.com/=0A=0ADonate: http://www.team.net/donate.html=0AArchive: htt=
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---1964014314-1294360504-1379302859=:86898
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div style=3D"color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:ti=
mes new roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:12pt"><div><span>Group:</sp=
an></div><div><span>I will throw my 2 cents in. Had the same problem with a=
 customers engine. He had someone build an engine which then showed your sy=
mptoms. The builder rebuilt it again, only to have the same symptoms again.=
 This is when he came to me. I thought cam bearings (lack of) for sure and =
tore the motor down. Took it to the shop to be vatted and have bearings ins=
talled, only to have the machinest call and tell me that there was a crack =
in the block through the oil passage on one of the crank mains.&nbsp; A rep=
lacement block solved the issue. The pump created enough pressure at rpm, b=
ut not at idle. The oil just pumps back into the sump. Similar to having th=
e pressure relief valve stuck open just a little, like if something is stuc=
k in the valve. Check the valve first...look into the passage for
 anything preventing it from closing all the way. Hard to get down there wi=
th the engine in the car.</span></div><div><span>Keep us informed.</span></=
div><div><span>-Ed-</span></div><div><br></div>  <div style=3D"font-family:=
 times new roman, new york, times, serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <div style=3D"=
font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <d=
iv dir=3D"ltr"> <div class=3D"hr" style=3D"margin: 5px 0px; padding: 0px; b=
order: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); height: 0px; line-height: 0; font-size=
: 0px;" contenteditable=3D"false" readonly=3D"true"></div>  <font face=3D"A=
rial" size=3D"2"> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">From:</span></b> Du=
aneBailey &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: =
bold;">To:</span></b> Duncan Charlton &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <=
br><b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Cc:</span></b> "[email-masked]=
" &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Sen=
t:</span></b>
 Sunday, September 15, 2013 7:54 PM<br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold=
;">Subject:</span></b> Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pres=
sure problems<br> </font> </div> <div class=3D"y_msg_container"><br><meta h=
ttp-equiv=3D"x-dns-prefetch-control" content=3D"off"><div id=3D"yiv28104955=
1"><div><div>I assume you didn't bore the block &amp; install cam bearings.=
 Your problem is excessive clearence beween the cam &amp; block &amp; that =
is bleeding off all your oil pressure. I will not rebuild a race or street =
6 cyl engine without boring the block &amp; installing cam bearings. The be=
arings for a mk2/3 Spit work perfectly.<br><br>Sent from my iPad</div><div>=
<br>On Sep 15, 2013, at 3:56 PM, Duncan Charlton &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:dunc=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow" ymailto=3D"mail=
to:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<=
br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>I'm not sure that's worst case =
-- the
 bearings, either crank or cam bearings, could have too much clearance and =
that would require a full teardown, ye that doesn't seem likely if the engi=
ne rebuilder followed long-established practices. &nbsp;One other item that=
 hasn't been mentioned yet -- are you using an oil cooler with a thermostat=
ic valve? &nbsp;If it was installed improperly perhaps there's a way it cou=
ld rob pressure from the system when the oil heats up and the valve opens.<=
div><br></div><div>Duncan</div><div>(Texas)</div><div><br></div><div><br><d=
iv><div>On Sep 15, 2013, at 10:13 AM, <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
 target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">r=
[email-masked]</a> wrote:</div><br class=3D"yiv281049551Apple-interchang=
e-newline"><blockquote type=3D"cite"><font color=3D"black" face=3D"arial" s=
ize=3D"2"><br>=0A<br>=0A<br>=0A=0A=0A<div style=3D"color: black; font-famil=
y: arial, helvetica; font-size: 10pt;">-----Original Message-----<br>=0AFro=
m: robertten1 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" r=
el=3D"nofollow" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a=
>&gt;<br>=0ATo: tr4racing &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" t=
arget=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
m">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>=0ASent: Sun, Sep 15, 2013 11:11 am<=
br>=0ASubject: Re: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure pro=
blems<br>=0A<br>=0A=0A=0A<div id=3D"yiv281049551AOLMsgPart_1_4979068e-1634-=
48ea-aee2-2ff1000075f8"><font color=3D"black" face=3D"arial" size=3D"2">=0A=
=0A<div>Did you replace the Oil Pressure Releif Valve and its Spring ?&nbsp=
; I would first hook up a mechanical test pressure guage at the Oil Pressur=
e Switch in the block and see what readings you get.&nbsp; Worse case ... t=
he Pump could be at fault.&nbsp; Lastly are you running the cannister filte=
r or a spin on oil filter?</div>=0A=0A=0A<div>&nbsp;</div>=0A=0A=0A<div>Bes=
t o Luck</div>=0A=0A=0A<div>Bob T<br>=0A<br>=0A<br>=0A</div>=0A=0A=0A<div s=
tyle=3D"color: black; font-family: arial, helvetica; font-size: 10pt;">----=
-Original Message-----<br>=0AFrom: MadMarx &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tr4racing@=
googlemail.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow" ymailto=3D"mailto:tr4rac=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>=0ATo: 'Andrew Pack=
ard' &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nof=
ollow" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;; '6=
 Digest' &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"nofollow" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]<=
/a>&gt;; fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" re=
l=3D"nofollow" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>=
&gt;<br>=0ASent: Sun, Sep 15, 2013 5:53 am<br>=0ASubject: Re: [Fot] Help ne=
eded, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure problems<br>=0A<br>=0A=0A=0A<div id=
=3D"yiv281049551AOLMsgPart_0_c3d2986c-fe2d-466f-be96-d821e3eb03d2" style=3D=
"margin: 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, San=
s-Serif; font-size: 12px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><pre style=
=3D"font-size: 9pt;"><tt>Could there any trouble with the pressure relive v=
alve?=0AI'm not familiar with the 6 pot engines.=0A=0AChris=0A=0A-----Urspr=
=FCngliche Nachricht-----=0AVon: <a href=3D"" rel=3D"nofollow">fot-bounces@=
autox.team.net</a> [<a href=3D"" rel=3D"nofollow">mailto:fot-bounces@autox.=
team.net</a>] Im=0AAuftrag von Andrew Packard=0AGesendet: Sonntag, 15. Sept=
ember 2013 02:56=0AAn: 6 Digest; <a href=3D"" rel=3D"nofollow">[email-masked]=
am.net</a>=0ABetreff: [Fot] Help needed, TR250 engine rebuild oil pressure =
problems=0A=0AHello Triumph problem solvers.=0A=0AI nearly have my TR250 re=
ady for Triumphest/VTR after an engine rebuild.=0AI'm trying to solve a pro=
blem now with maintaining consistent oil pressure.=0AWhen I first ran the c=
ar after the rebuild, the 20 minutes at 2000 rpm=0Astart, I had Castrol 5W3=
0 and ZDDP additive.  After the engine really got up=0Ato temperature, I ha=
d trouble with maintaining oil pressure, dropping way=0Adown close to zero =
at idle.  A mechanic friend of mine checked it out with=0Ame and with the r=
ocker cover off, we saw little flow at the rockers at idle.=0AI had an exte=
rnal oiling line on my shelf so I added that and saw very good=0Aflow at st=
art up when oil pressure was about 65 and settled down to just=0Aunder 50 a=
s it started to get warm, but continued to drop to the same near=0Azero lev=
el once it was at temperature.  =0A=0AToday I changed the oil to 20W50 Cast=
rol with Lucas ZDDP break-in additive.=0ASame symptoms.  I drove the car ab=
out four miles near my house and at=0Atemperature, I was running at 20-25 p=
si when driving, dropping to near zero=0Aat stop signs.  When I arrived hom=
e, I removed the quite hot valve cover oil=0Afill cap and started the car. =
 Very little oil was dancing around, if any,=0Aat idle.  I revved the car a=
 bit and saw sufficient oil flowing and=0Asplattering in there.  =0A=0ANow =
I don't know what to do.  I have the braided oil pressure line from TSI.=0A=
I don't think my gauge is bad with oil flow symptoms consistent with the=0A=
pressure readings.  Could the oil pressure regulator be an issue?  Mine is=
=0Arelatively new from BPNW.  I do have a second one I could swap in.  The =
oil=0Apump was new with the rebuild.  =0A=0AAny advice or guidance is appre=
ciated.  =0A=0AAndy Packard=0ACD6746L=0APresident - Triumph Travelers=0AAut=
ocross Chair - 2013 Triumphest/VTR=0A=0A=0A________________________________=
_______________=0A<a href=3D"" rel=3D"nofollow">[email-masked]</a>=0A=
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From: "Clark W. Nicholls" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2013 11:05:25 -0400

I think the block is engineered similar to the Spitfire...

Thought 1, but I don't think this is it.
There is a threaded plug on the back of the block on the oil gallery. If you
forget to reinstall it after cleaning the block the oil escapes easily and
oil pressure goes away!

Thought 2 since I had a similar Spitfire experience.
Your oil pump is worn out, install a fresh one!

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) 
www.botchagaloop.net for old racing photos
"Reality, it's not what you think."