From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 1 06:39:01 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 08:37:35 EST Subject: tr7 bfh#20 Here's a question to ponder. I'm trying to put the chain back on, and am finding it difficult to keep the crank, cam, and jackshaft all lined up in the right position. Always seems like I have to nudge one or the other just a little bit out of place to get the chain to fit on the sprockets. So, any tricks of the trade here? And the book talks about the "drive side" of the chain. I assume that is what others have called the power side, but which side is it? For reference purposes, if you are facing the engine, the crank sprocket is at the bottom, the cam sprocket is up top and to the right, the jackshaft sprocket is down a little and to the left, and the tensioner is between the jackshaft and the crank, on the left. So, if facing the engine, the chain goes from crank to the tensioner to the jack to the cam to the crank. And if that is the right rotation, i guess you could say the the crank "pulls" the cam via the chain? So, the drive side is maybe from the cam to the crank? Chain, chain, chain... Chain of fools bruce From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 1 10:03:17 2000 From: HLYDOC@aol.com To: Eganb@aol.com, Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 12:02:20 EST Subject: Re: tr7 bfh#20 The position of the jack shaft is not as critical as the other gears. You will need ti set the crank shaft at T.D.C. and the cam shaft with the notch lined up then set the jackshaft with the distributor installed and pointing to the small plastis insulator on the distributor body, which is the number 1 cylinder. You will then need to set the chain in place with all of the slack in the tensioner area and install the tensioner. You then will adjust the tension on the chail rails. David Nock President/Service Manager British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton Calif. 95205 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com Visit our new web site at BritishCarSpecialists.com ======================================== Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 2 07:47:26 2000 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Richard Feibusch) To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 06:43:55 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: british-cars-digest V1 #177 Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 22:00:50 -0600 From: "Carl Follstad, home" Subject: Question for group Does anyone have any ownership experience with Bristol motorcars? Anyone own a 408, specifically? I'd appreciate any and all feedback. Thanks, Carl ****************************************************** Dear Carl and List, Here in the States contact: Bristols of America P.O. Box 111513 Campbell, CA. 95011-1513 Shawn Thomas: 408-374-8089 Email: bristolusa@earthlink.net website: http://members.tripod.com/bristolsofamerica Cheers, Rick Feibusch Venice, CA From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 2 10:34:03 2000 From: "Taffel, Sherman" To: "'bob'" , Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 12:40:11 -0500 Subject: RE: 27 Hours: 'unexpected' 'pleasures' and Unexpected Pleasures Hi Bob That's why I got into Jensens!!! Sherman -----Original Message----- From: bob [mailto:rolman@bellatlantic.net] Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2000 11:13 PM To: Taffel, Sherman Subject: RE: 27 Hours: 'unexpected' 'pleasures' and Unexpected Pleasures This is clearly the result of owning too many Jags :) From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 2 10:34:19 2000 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 09:31:45 -0800 Subject: Missing Part Help - revision Well I jumped on Moss Motor's web site. Gotta hand it to them. Their on line catalogs seem to be providing everything I need (except the right part!). The MGA-Bs all seem to have rack and pinion. So, there would not be a corresponding part. The Austin Healey has the same design. Except the dust cap looks like exactly that, a full cup/cap with a spring holding it. The part on this one is really more of a flat disk, with a slight upturned edge. I don't think that there is room for a full cup. The Triumph catalogs seem to be having problems downloading. The others took seconds. I'm going a few minutes here and still haven't seen any action from hitting to open the page. Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 2 14:42:33 2000 From: "Musson, Carl" To: "'british-cars@autox.team.net'" Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 16:36:28 -0500 Subject: FW: MG Midget This notice came through a listserv at work. I thought I would pass it along to this list to see if anyone is interested. The car is located in Lutz/Land O'Lakes area of Florida - just north of Tampa. I don't know anything about the car (NFI,etc.) but can make some phone calls if anyone is interested. Carl -----Original Message----- From: Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 3:41 PM To: Subject: MG Midget Posting for a friend. Please respond to phone number at the bottom. FOR SALE 1975 MG Midget All Original Maroon with black interior Like New $5000 Call: 949-2627 From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 2 17:13:51 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 19:12:57 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#21 Well, in the morning light, I realized the timing chain was correctly threaded across the crank/cam/jack sprockets, and all the appropriate marks were line up. So, on to installing the new tensioner, which was fun since I managed to drop it, and of course the spring shot off across the driveway. Luckily nothing was damaged. I got the tensioner back together and "locked" it again. After installing the tensioner, I moved the new upper adjustable chain guide until getting the required .1 inch space between the back of the slipper and the tensioner body, then tightened down both chain guides and the support bracket. One question -- While pushing the slipper back and forth to get the .1 inch clearance, I'm sure the tensioner became "unlocked" again, but since it was now pressing up against the chain, I assumed that was ok? After that, all that was left was to put on the oil thrower, dished face outwards, and press in a new oil seal on the timing chain cover. I turned the engine by hand several times, and everything seemed to line up fine, but it took a few minutes to finally get up the courage to close it all up! Second question, the front oil seal isn't terribly tight around the crank, and just how does the oil thrower work -- just spins and any oil dropping on it is "thrown" back up? Third question -- the one bolt I couldn't torque at 120 lbs. was the main bolt that holds the crankshaft pully -- because my torque wrench only goes up to 100 and it is a 3/8 wrench, and I had to use a monster 3/4" wrench from Sears to put the bolt back on. So, figuring 120 foot lbs. is pretty tight, I just really leaned on the wrench. To keep the engine from turning I wedged a block of wood between one of the crank counterweights near #3 journal and the block. Sound ok? And the more I used the torque wrench, the more I realized how much I over-tighten bolts when not using a torque wrench. Some of the bolts, like those on the timing chain cover, only required 20 foot pounds which ain't much! It took me even longer to get the courage to finally put the oil pan back on. Then, right after putting the Permatex Blue RTV silicon on the block, and the oil pan gasket on top of it, I realized I had left off the real oil seal housing, since it's tough to install it with the engine bolted to the engine stand. So I quickly cleaned it up and fitted it so that I could bolt the back two bolts to the oil pan and press the silicon out correctly. Then I put the new oil pump in, turning the engine to make sure the shaft from the oil pump to the distributor was correctly seated, and then put back on the oil transfer housing and the oil filter. I filled up the cavity running from the oil pump to the oil transfer housing with assembly lube in hopes of priming the oil pump. My goal is to have the engine back in the car by the end of the weekend, which means installing the transmission with the new clutch. Fourth question -- The old clutch face was one continuous circle of whatever the stuff is that a clutch is made of, but the new clutch has semi-circular grooves cut in the material all the way around, and on both sides. Is that for cooling, or to stop squealing, or something else? Final question -- I'm pondering just how much other stuff to put back on before attempting to put the engine back into the car. It would seem that leaving off the air pump, alternator, fan, and exhaust manifold will make it that much easier to manuver the engine back into the car, and also to get to the engine mounts. Any thoughts, particulary about leaving off the exhaust manifold at this point? And any last minute advice about re-installation also appreciated! Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 2 17:39:26 2000 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 08:07:56 -0800 Subject: Help Identifying Part, please! MG, Triumph, Austin Healey, Jaguar, Aston Martin owners, ANYONE, I'm trying to identify what car a part came off of so I can see if I can get a replacement piece for it. This is a steering cross tube. It's about 2 feet long and at each end there is a perpendicular threaded part that swivels. One end goes into the lever coming out of the steering box, the other end goes into the steering mechanism on the other side of the car. On the top of each swivel end there is a grease gun fitting. This fits, and I am going to use it for, my Sunbeam Alpine. But, it is not a Sunbeam part. I believe it came from another marque. The part that I need to replace are the little rubber dust covers that slide over the threaded rod and seat up against the bottom of the ends of the crosstube where the threaded rod sticks out. It seems the dust covers are to keep dirt from getting up into the bearing surface, and possibly to keep the grease from just draining out the bottom. However, I do doubt that it is really that effective in keeping the grease from draining. So if any of you know what other car this might have come off of, I'd appreciate the tip. Also, if any of you have similar parts and know that I might as well use it without the dust cover, I'd appreciate that too. For what it's worth, the factory Alpine part did not have a nice bearing like this one, but a rubber donut surrounding the threaded rod - so that when the rubber failed, as it does quickly, a significant amount of play is created and it becomes next to impossible to align the steering. There are new polyurethane replacements. But, my preference is to go with this one. Thanks. Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 2 19:11:57 2000 From: ARoman4047@aol.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 21:10:52 EST Subject: insignia i.d. Gentlepersons- Anybody know what marque would have a winged "M" ? Not script...looks like capital Roman from the hazy photo. Might be motorcycle? Matchless? TIA Tony in NJ W.A.S.T.E. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 2 19:18:47 2000 From: Barney Gaylord To: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com Date: Thu, 02 Nov 2000 20:19:01 -0600 Subject: Re: Help Identifying Part, please! Jay, What you are describing is the steering cross link, used on cars that do not have rack and pinion steering but rather recirculating ball or worm and sector steering boxes. Each end has a metalic spherical ball end with a tapered stud and thread for retaining nut. The last one I saw like that was on a Morgan, but I think the MG T-Series cars may use similar parts, and many other cars as well, including my 1981 Pontiac, Ford ranger truck. .... For the grease seal/dust boot, start by measuring the diameter of the stud just above the threaded shoulder. Then drop by your nearest auto parts store and tell them you want a ball joint seal for that size stud, and you should have the parts for less than $1 each. I used to buy these at NAPA by the fistfull. The generic type have no retaining rings but are just squeezed in between the mated parts to affect the seal. They actually do a fairly good job of keeping the grease in and the dirt out, until you shoot too much grease in and it oozes out around the seal. Just press the seal down with your fingers and wipe off any excess grease, and it's good to go again. These should probably be replaced about every 10 years or so, as the rubber does eventually deteriorate, similar to suspension bushings. Regards, Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg ------------------ At 08:07 AM 11/2/2000 -0800, Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com wrote: > >.... trying to identify what car a part came off of so I can see if I can get a replacement piece for it. This is a steering cross tube. It's about 2 feet long and at each end there is a perpendicular threaded part that swivels. One end goes into the lever coming out of the steering box, the other end goes into the steering mechanism on the other side of the car. On the top of each swivel end there is a grease gun fitting. > >This fits, and I am going to use it for, my Sunbeam Alpine. But, it is not a Sunbeam part. I believe it came from another marque. > >The part that I need to replace are the little rubber dust covers that slide over the threaded rod and seat up against the bottom of the ends of the crosstube where the threaded rod sticks out. .... -------------------- From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 2 21:49:51 2000 From: Bob Nogueira To: "BRITISH-CARS@AUTOX>TEAM" Date: Thu, 02 Nov 2000 22:32:22 -0500 Subject: Mufflers -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- Anyone know where I can get some advise on building a muffler ? I need to construct one for my Brighton built Isetta . It needs to be a multiple tube type. Modification of a production muffler for another application is not possible since the inlet and outlet need to be on the same end . The specific information I am in need of relates to how the interior should be designed to provide maximum sound reduction without creating too much back pressure. Bob Nogueira ( 'hoping that Barney and Eastman are still on the list ) _____________________________________ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 2 22:08:08 2000 From: Barney Gaylord To: Bob Nogueira Date: Thu, 02 Nov 2000 23:08:20 -0600 Subject: Re: Mufflers At 10:32 PM 11/2/2000 -0500, Bob Nogueira wrote: >Anyone know where I can get some advise on building a muffler? I need to construct one for my Brighton built Isetta . It needs to be a multiple tube type. Modification of a production muffler for another application is not possible since the inlet and outlet need to be on the same end. The specific information I am in need of relates to how the interior should be designed to provide maximum sound reduction without creating too much back pressure. > >.... ('hoping that Barney and Eastman are still on the list ) Yeah, we still here. And I might even be able to help with this one. Oddball stuff is right up my alley. You might drop by some local muffler shop for a look, as they usually have a cut-away model hanging on the wall as a sales tool. My immediate approach would be to start with a ready made unit by cutting the ends off just down the housing from the end flanges. Then cut the pipe off of one end and plug the hole. Then port a hole in the opposite end along with the first pipe, and install the other pipe there, connecting it to the open pipe end inside. Then weld it all back together. If you can supply the required dimensions for the finished part, length, width, thickness, pipe sizes and locations, I'll see if I can conjure up a workable sketch. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude (and a glass packed bean can for a muffler) http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 3 08:12:11 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: barneymg@ntsource.com Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 07:10:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Help Identifying Part, please! > > Jay, > > .... > .... > > The generic type have no retaining rings but are just squeezed in between > the mated parts to affect the seal. They actually do a fairly good job of > keeping the grease in and the dirt out, until you shoot too much grease in > and it oozes out around the seal. Just press the seal down with your > fingers and wipe off any excess grease, and it's good to go again. These > should probably be replaced about every 10 years or so, as the rubber does > eventually deteriorate, similar to suspension bushings. > > Regards, > > Barney Gaylord Cable ties work okay for this purpose. Roland From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 3 10:55:37 2000 From: Kevin Sullivan To: ARoman4047@aol.com Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 10:51:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: insignia i.d. On Thu, 2 Nov 2000 ARoman4047@aol.com wrote: > Gentlepersons- > Anybody know what marque would have a winged "M" ? Not > script...looks > like capital Roman from the hazy photo. Might be motorcycle? Matchless? Matchless bikes rock. Check out http://www.garagecompany.com/dmatchl.html and I think you'll find your match. -- Kevin Sullivan kevins@khoral.com Khoral Research Inc. Albuquerque NM USA 1968 Dodge W-200 Crewcab "PW" www.khoral.com/staff/kevins/dodge 1960 MGA "Baby" www.khoral.com/staff/kevins/mgstuff 1957 Magnette ZB "Pup" 1959 Magnette ZB "P2" From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 3 12:51:40 2000 From: "Glen Wilson" To: "RoverNet Mailing List" Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 14:48:34 -0500 Subject: 1963 Rover 95 for sale? Hi, I may have to part with my Rover 95 to raise some capital for a business venture. (Sob...) I've put up some pictures at: http://clubs.hemmings.com/rovercar/p4/p4.html I'm trying to gauge how much interest there might be in the car since nice Rovers sometimes go un wanted and unappreciated. The bumpers need to be rechromed since there is some pitting. There are a couple of dings and one spot on the roof that needs to be touched up, but it is completely original and in nice shape. In case you're wondering, I'll go back to work on my 3500S if I part with this car. A couple of local people have expressed interest in the past, and I've heard value estimates up to $20,000 from people who have seen the car, but I doubt that this falls within the "realistic" realm. I'd like to get at least $5,000 for the car and would be interested in hearing comments on what it might realistically be worth. I'm near Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Glen From: Glen Wilson @ Pennsylvania, USA Email: rstca@hemmings.com Rover Saloon Touring Club of America Website: http://clubs.hemmings.com/rovercar/rstca.html From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sat Nov 4 05:22:11 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 07:20:13 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#22 Hah! FInally found the answer about lubricating the rack and pinion. Buried in the manual is a note that you take out the plug on the top of the rack and replace it with a grease nipple and fill with grease. i bet this has NEVER been done before. It says just give five strokes, because you can damage a protective bellows. any advice on the type of grease to use? and the biggie for today, any recommendations on what type/weight of oil to run in the engine the first time I start it up? Probably will be 55-70 degrees F. today and tommorrow. Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sat Nov 4 08:17:32 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 10:15:38 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#23 Well, wouldn't be a fun day without some new twist. First, I've always wondered why everyone else had a vacuum advance on their distributor, and mine didn't. I figured it had something to do with the electronic module located on the fire wall. Well, I took the distributor off, and guess what? There's a big hole on the back side WHERE THE VACUUM ADVANCE SHOULD BE!!!!!! I guess I'll deal with that after the engine is back in the car. In the meantime I have a more pressing issue. I went to torque up the exhaust manifold, and at least half the bolts are stripped!..... I have had absolutely no luck with stuff like heliocoil for repairing threads. These are 3/8" bolts, and it looks like there is plenty of material on head and manifold to tap out the holes to 7/16" But I'll hold off for a while to see what y'alls reaction is. Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sat Nov 4 14:51:46 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 16:47:55 EST Subject: TRR BFH#24 Well, I'm giving up for the night. After some email from y'all I changed my mind and tried to use the helicoil solution. Did three holes, two are ok, but on one the helicoil just keeps working it's way out every time I put in the bolt - and I made sure the helicoil was below the edge of the hole, down a thread or two, when I inserted it. Looks like all the threaded holes into the head for the exhaust manifold have had helicoils used before. So I suspect the holes are probably a tad wider than they should be, hence the slipping helicoil? I just put another one in the same hole with loctite, and will leave it overnight, hoping it will grip better in the morning. Meanwhile, any advice at this point? Maybe wrap some plumbers tape around the bolt to "thicken" it up a bit? I've got to be able to get 34 foot lbs of torque, not a lot, and I have to helicoil the other holes as well, and I really don't want a repeat of today!!! Thanks folks. Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sat Nov 4 15:03:42 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 17:02:57 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#24-a Just a thought, I have been using Permatex anti-seize on the exhaust manifold bolts. That couldn't somehow affect the helicoil, could it? Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 5 15:01:29 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2000 16:59:37 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#24-b Well, using blue (medium) loctite and letting it dry overnight didn't help. heliocoil still just works it's way out of the hole. thanks to everyone for lots of ideas on fixing this. again these holes have been heliocoil-ed before, so every time i drill and tap them the helocoils just get looser. So, below I've listed my possible options at this point, and I'll call my machine shop tomorrow for their advice. But wait! You say you're dismayed that your vote on Tuesday is just a vote for the lesser of two evils? Well cheer up! You're vote below for one option from Plan A and one option from Plan B will definitely make a difference to this Triumph owner in Carolina! Vote today, and vote often! Plan A: The top holes are open on the back, so three possibilities: A1. I probably could put studs on the top holes with nuts on the backside. I've still got plenty of aluminum head material around the holes, but i'm slightly concered that the 3/8 stud will wobble around in the hole which is now large enough to take a 7/16 bolt (and no, that bolt won't hold either) so, maybe insert a bushing in the hole, and use flat washers to distribute the pressure? A2: If I try the heliocoil again, is there a millimeter bolt size that is slighter larger than 3/8", but not as large as 7/6" which is the next English size up and won't fit? Maybe a slightly larger millimeter bolt would keep the heliocoil in place. A3. Try using red loctite, which is the permanent stuff, although heat may be a problem. I also thought about J&B weld, so I'll probably check out the Internet tonight for other options for holding in the heliocoils. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Plan B: The lower holes are blind, so studs with nuts on the end aren't an option. B1. I did heliocoil one of those holes, and it seems to be holding, so try heliocoil on the other two with red loctite? Maybe heliocoil works better on a blind hole for some reason? B2. Try the other products similar to heliocoil that are solid inserts? B3. Try the millimeter bolt trick mentioned above. B4. Tap out to whatever is after 7/16. Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 5 20:31:09 2000 From: ARoman4047@aol.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2000 22:28:03 EST Subject: side glances Gentlepersons- Anyone with sliding side curtains have a source for the rubber surround- ing the aluminum frames? Any make or model might be a good start for another more specific model. Tony in NJ W.A.S.T.E. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 5 21:04:21 2000 From: Scott Williams To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 05 Nov 2000 22:03:07 -0600 Subject: Borg Warner 45 auto transmission problem Hi list. I've been off of here for a while, but dropping in for a question. My Austin Marina Borg Warner 35 automatic transmission has been doing an odd thing lately. Since I changed the fluid, the idle has gotten rougher in reverse than drive. My idle in drive is pretty smooth, but reverse has the engine shaking more, as if there is more torque required for it to work. There has been no slipping or anything along those lines. I have given it the correct ATF. Not sure if I might have overfilled it. Could that cause it? Any ideas appreciated. Scott Williams Topeka, KS From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 5 21:22:11 2000 From: Phil Bates To: ARoman4047@aol.com Date: Sun, 05 Nov 2000 21:18:38 -0700 Subject: Re: side glances I don't know if this will help, but Scarborough Faire rebuilds windows. They probably know the rubber surround for the MGA if not others. GOod luck! ARoman4047@aol.com wrote: > Gentlepersons- > Anyone with sliding side curtains have a source for > the rubber surround- > ing the aluminum frames? Any make or model might be a good start for another > more > specific model. > Tony in NJ > W.A.S.T.E. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 5 22:28:27 2000 From: "Ron Roach" To: Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2000 21:25:36 -0800 Subject: O/D quest Hi all, I'm still ont he hunt for a good used O/D setup for my Spit 1500. Have any Canadian listers out there purchased a used setup from the US? I'm wondering if the shipping just makes it too expensive to be worth it? Thanks, Ron rroach@direct.ca '78 Spit 1500 Vancouver, B.C. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 6 12:08:14 2000 From: "Mark the Shark" To: Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2000 14:06:06 -0500 Subject: Re: [rovernet] 1963 Rover 95 for sale? Hi Glen, I went looking on the rstca web page for the photos of your P6B and though the story comes up the photos do not load? What happen? Mark Ascherl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glen Wilson" To: "RoverNet Mailing List" Cc: "British Car Mailing List" Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 2:48 PM Subject: [rovernet] 1963 Rover 95 for sale? > Hi, > > I may have to part with my Rover 95 to raise some capital for a business > venture. (Sob...) > > I've put up some pictures at: > > http://clubs.hemmings.com/rovercar/p4/p4.html > > I'm trying to gauge how much interest there might be in the car since nice > Rovers sometimes go un wanted and unappreciated. The bumpers need to be > rechromed since there is some pitting. There are a couple of dings and one > spot on the roof that needs to be touched up, but it is completely original > and in nice shape. > > In case you're wondering, I'll go back to work on my 3500S if I part with > this car. > > A couple of local people have expressed interest in the past, and I've heard > value estimates up to $20,000 from people who have seen the car, but I doubt > that this falls within the "realistic" realm. I'd like to get at least > $5,000 for the car and would be interested in hearing comments on what it > might realistically be worth. > > I'm near Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. > > Glen > > From: Glen Wilson @ Pennsylvania, USA > Email: rstca@hemmings.com > Rover Saloon Touring Club of America > Website: http://clubs.hemmings.com/rovercar/rstca.html > > > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to rovernet as: [markie@gte.net] > To unsubscribe, forward this message to leave-rovernet-10781E@lyris.ccdata.com > RoverNet is sponsored by Classic Car Data (http://www.ccdata.com) > Visit the RoverNet Archives at http://misc.nipltd.com/P6ROC/RoverNet.nsf From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 6 18:16:43 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2000 20:14:35 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#24-c I've become intrigued with a solid insert called a Keensert mentioned by a number of you. It's similar to the timecert inserts, with the exception of having a "key" that you tap down to lock the insert in place. Check out http://www.newmantools.com/kee.htm and see what you think. They are supposedly used in the aviation industry. There is a "thin-wall" and "heavy-duty" version. For the 3/8" internal thread size that I need, I would drill out a 29/64 hole for thin-wall, or a 33/64 hole for heavy duty. All the specs are at the above website. On my worst hole, the 29/64 still didn't provide a smooth surface -- remanants of threads were still there. So now I'm agonizing over whether to drill them all 33/64, or just the one that needs the larger size since I don't know if 4/64 extra material taken out on all the holes is going to cause a problem -- and yeah, I'm getting tired!!!! And I think in some of the holes the heliocoil will hold. So the question for tonight is, drill everything out at 33/64, or mix and match with 29/64 and heliocoil? Maybe I can use the whole car as a coffee table.... Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 6 21:00:19 2000 From: "Phil Ethier" To: , Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2000 17:26:23 -0600 Subject: TRIUMPH CARS AND BITS in Champaign Illinois USA RESPOND DIRECTLY TO Mark Pelham at mppsrtr6@lincweb.com not to me or Ed. -----Original Message----- From: Ed & Ruth Young To: lotuslist >I know this is the 'Lotus list', but I also know that some members do have >other makes of British cars, so I thought that I should forward this..... >might save somebody else a drive to Texas (not that there is anything wrong >with that). > >Ed > >> I was hoping you could help if possible. I have lost storage on a 30 >> year collection of Triumphs. If you have a newsletter that I could place >> an ad in, I would be glad to pay you for it. I can be reached at this >> e-mail or at 217-345-7564. >> Thank for your help. >> Mark Pelham >> mppsrtr6@lincweb.com From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 7 16:36:22 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 18:32:12 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#24-d I'm here to testify that there is absolutely nothing as beautiful as a Keensert sitting in a freshly tapped hole, just itching to show a torque wrench what it can do. Even though it's raining, I tried a couple of Keenserts tonight, and they seem to have worked perfectly, and they easily took 34 foot pounds. The local dealer only had six, and I have seven holes, but again I think the heliocoils are holding in at least two holes, so I should be fine. Now, an interesting problem has come up. The blind bottom holes are very shallow, and the tap doesn't go far enough in to cut enough threads to make me feel comfortable. As you know, the tap is the largest about in the middle, so you really need to have the middle part go all the way to the "bottom" of where you want threads. Possible solution -- buy a second tap, and cut it off a third of the way up. Use the first tap to get started, and the second to finish the job? Is that possible? and can you even cut through these taps? Or is there another obvious solution? By the way, here's another "goof" for you professionals to groan over. When I first started with the stripped threads business, I flipped the engine upside down on the engine stand to make it easier to work on. The very first hole I drilled out worked fine, except I forgot to cover the exhaust ports, and of course some spiral pieces of aluminum dropped right down into two of them. Panicing, I got our relatively new house vacuum out, inserted the crevice tool, and stuck it down the exhaust ports to suck up whatever may have fallen in. It looked like I got the pieces out, but still not satisfied, I duct-taped a small plastic tube to the crevice tool, and used that to probe even further into the ports. It was about that time that my wife drives up, and of course spots the vacuum which I tried to hide behind the garbage cans. I manged to skirt the issue of "what was I doing," and successfully hid the duct-taped rube-goldberg contraption hanging off the vacuum. Now I have duct tape over the ports while drilling out the rest of the holes. I keep trying to remember, it's not the destination that counts, it's the journey! Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 7 17:07:36 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: Eganb@aol.com Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 16:06:32 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#24-d There are two types of taps (at least). What you probably want is what is referred to as a bottom tap. This type of tap only has a slight taper at the very bottom. They are a bit harder to start in a hole, but then you've already taken care of that part. You might be able to cut off your tap if that is your preferred approach. I've cut some pretty hard small metal pieces with cut-off disks in my Dremel tool. But look for a bottom tap first. You may need the tapered tap again sometime and probably a bottom tap as well. Roland > > Now, an interesting problem has come up. The blind bottom holes are very > shallow, and the tap doesn't go far enough in to cut enough threads to make > me feel comfortable. As you know, the tap is the largest about in the > middle, so you really need to have the middle part go all the way to the > "bottom" of where you want threads. > > Possible solution -- buy a second tap, and cut it off a third of the way up. > Use the first tap to get started, and the second to finish the job? Is that > possible? and can you even cut through these taps? Or is there another > obvious solution? > > Bruce From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 7 17:14:52 2000 From: "J.E.A.Rich" To: Roland Dudley , Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 17:14:28 -0700 Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#24-d For what its worth, a bottom tap is also called a plug tap. The easy way to shorten a tap is to grind it. "Bob". > From: Roland Dudley > Reply-To: Roland Dudley > Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 16:06:32 -0800 (PST) > To: Eganb@aol.com > Cc: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, > tr8@mercury.lcs.mit.edu > Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#24-d > > There are two types of taps (at least). What you probably want is what > is referred to as a bottom tap. This type of tap only has a slight > taper at the very bottom. They are a bit harder to start in a hole, > but then you've already taken care of that part. > > You might be able to cut off your tap if that is your preferred > approach. I've cut some pretty hard small metal pieces with cut-off > disks in my Dremel tool. But look for a bottom tap first. You may need > the tapered tap again sometime and probably a bottom tap as well. > > Roland > >> >> Now, an interesting problem has come up. The blind bottom holes are very >> shallow, and the tap doesn't go far enough in to cut enough threads to make >> me feel comfortable. As you know, the tap is the largest about in the >> middle, so you really need to have the middle part go all the way to the >> "bottom" of where you want threads. >> >> Possible solution -- buy a second tap, and cut it off a third of the way up. >> Use the first tap to get started, and the second to finish the job? Is that >> possible? and can you even cut through these taps? Or is there another >> obvious solution? >> >> Bruce From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 7 17:31:48 2000 From: Randall Young To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 16:37:39 -0800 Subject: RE: TR7 BFH#24-d Bruce : Hand taps come in three different tapers, commonly known as 'taper', 'plug' and 'bottoming'. If your set only has one taper of tap in each thread, it is most likely 'plug'. So, what you need is a 'bottoming' tap in the right size. Give your local hardware store a call, they may have one on the shelf. Be careful with the bottoming tap, they are easy to break (and if you think you've got problems now, just wait until you break a tap !) And yes, the procedure is to thread first with the plug tap, then remove it and finish with the bottoming tap. You can make a reasonable approximation to a bottoming tap by grinding away the end of an ordinary plug tap. A soft, fine grinding wheel works best, or you can use an abrasive cutoff wheel in a Dremel or die grinder. Be sure to use plenty of coolant to keep the tap cool, so you don't draw the temper. I use a plastic spray bottle, like Windex comes in, filled with water, to frequently spray both the tap and wheel. (You could probably use Windex for that matter, it's mostly water and the soap and alcohol won't hurt anything.) Don't let the tap get hot enough to discolor. Randall On Tuesday, November 07, 2000 3:32 PM, Eganb@aol.com [SMTP:Eganb@aol.com] wrote: > > Now, an interesting problem has come up. The blind bottom holes are very > shallow, and the tap doesn't go far enough in to cut enough threads to make > me feel comfortable. As you know, the tap is the largest about in the > middle, so you really need to have the middle part go all the way to the > "bottom" of where you want threads. > > Possible solution -- buy a second tap, and cut it off a third of the way up. > > Use the first tap to get started, and the second to finish the job? Is that > possible? and can you even cut through these taps? Or is there another > obvious solution? From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 7 19:03:33 2000 From: "Jeffrey H. Boatright" To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 20:50:32 -0500 Subject: Barkelys? I'm watching Speedvisions's Legends of Motors Sports, "BRSCC 1957" and one of the featured races at the Brands Hatch August Bank Holiday races was a type-specific race of what the announcer called "the supercharged lawnmower race" comprised entirely of a car called a Barkely (sp?). They look a lot like a spridget front end and frogeye rear end. Has anyone ever heard of these cars? TIA, Jeff -- __________________________________________________ Jeffrey H. Boatright, PhD Assistant Professor, Emory Eye Center, Atlanta, GA Senior Editor, Molecular Vision From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 7 19:47:44 2000 From: "Triumph Nut" To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 21:46:59 EST Subject: In search of British truck This might be a little off the wall, but who better to give advice on this subject. I own a small restoration shop in Hollywood, Florida we restore, you guessed it, British cars. We have been thinking of buying a flatbed to replace our car hauler trailer, but I would rather create something more unique, find a British truck cab and modify the rear by extending frame, etc. Are there any Brit trucks in the US? Anyone seen this done before? It will be a sort of advertising for our business. Sorry for the bandwith, but it is related to British cars, in a way. Thanks, Jack Levy www.driveableclassics.com _________________________________________________________________________ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 7 21:22:42 2000 From: "Phil Ethier" To: "Jeffrey H. Boatright" , Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 21:49:34 -0600 Subject: Re: Barkelys? -----Original Message----- From: Jeffrey H. Boatright To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, November 07, 2000 8:04 PM Subject: Barkelys? >I'm watching Speedvisions's Legends of Motors Sports, "BRSCC 1957" >and one of the featured races at the Brands Hatch August Bank Holiday >races was a type-specific race of what the announcer called "the >supercharged lawnmower race" comprised entirely of a car called a >Barkely (sp?). They look a lot like a spridget front end and frogeye >rear end. > >Has anyone ever heard of these cars? Berkeley. FWD motorcycle engine, I think. The one I was offered for sale many years ago had an entire 1275 Cooper front subframe installed. Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1970 Lotus Europa, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1986 Suburban, 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L LOON, MAC pethier@isd.net http://www.mnautox.com/ "It makes a nice noise when it goes faster" - 4-year-old Adam, upon seeing a bitmap of Grandma Susie's TR4. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 8 05:18:26 2000 From: "Mitchell, Doug (D.B.)" To: "scions (E-mail)" , Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 07:16:22 -0500 Subject: RE: TR7 BFH#24-d Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 18:32:12 EST From: Eganb@aol.com Subject: TR7 BFH#24-d [snip of info unrelated to my reply] Now, an interesting problem has come up. The blind bottom holes are very shallow, and the tap doesn't go far enough in to cut enough threads to make me feel comfortable. As you know, the tap is the largest about in the middle, so you really need to have the middle part go all the way to the "bottom" of where you want threads. Possible solution -- buy a second tap, and cut it off a third of the way up. Use the first tap to get started, and the second to finish the job? Is that possible? and can you even cut through these taps? Or is there another obvious solution? [snip of info unrelated to my reply] Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC ---------------------------------- Bruce, Have you checked out a tap designed for bottomed holes? Most people aren't aware that there are actually two types of hole taps. One for through holes, and one for bottomed holes. Check it out, it should help. -- Doug Mitchell mailto:dbmitch@peoplepc.com '73 Spitfire 1500 From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 8 08:07:50 2000 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Richard Feibusch) To: Dolphnx@aol.com Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 07:06:34 -0800 (PST) Subject: RE: TR7 BFH#24-d Found on Craig's List: For Sale : From: gloomyandre@gmx.de Tue Nov 7th 1959 Austin A40 Engine runs good - needs brakes - no dents or rot $500 cell 510 - 684 6521 home 510 - 235 7417 (Richmond, California) From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 8 08:28:07 2000 From: "J Arzt" To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2000 09:27:31 CST Subject: RE: TR7 BFH#24-d The biggest problem in this case is that an insert tap is unique to that brand and that size insert. I don't know if you can order a bottoming version of an insert tap or not, I've never needed one. Cutting a regular tap may be the only quick option. Jon Arzt >From: Randall Young >Reply-To: Randall Young >To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net >Subject: RE: TR7 BFH#24-d >Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 16:37:39 -0800 > >Bruce : > >Hand taps come in three different tapers, commonly known as 'taper', 'plug' >and >'bottoming'. If your set only has one taper of tap in each thread, it is >most >likely 'plug'. So, what you need is a 'bottoming' tap in the right size. >Give >your local hardware store a call, they may have one on the shelf. Be >careful >with the bottoming tap, they are easy to break (and if you think you've got >problems now, just wait until you break a tap !) And yes, the procedure is >to >thread first with the plug tap, then remove it and finish with the >bottoming >tap. > >You can make a reasonable approximation to a bottoming tap by grinding away >the >end of an ordinary plug tap. A soft, fine grinding wheel works best, or >you >can use an abrasive cutoff wheel in a Dremel or die grinder. Be sure to >use >plenty of coolant to keep the tap cool, so you don't draw the temper. I >use a >plastic spray bottle, like Windex comes in, filled with water, to >frequently >spray both the tap and wheel. (You could probably use Windex for that >matter, >it's mostly water and the soap and alcohol won't hurt anything.) Don't let >the >tap get hot enough to discolor. > >Randall _________________________________________________________________________ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 8 10:42:28 2000 From: Randall Young To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 09:48:04 -0800 Subject: RE: bottoming taps (was TR7 BFH#24-d) Actually, even a bottoming tap has a slight taper on the first one or two threads. You can see a comparative diagram at the bottom of http://param.mcmaster.com/asp/ss.asp?FAM=handtaps&FT_158=2844 Randall Chad & Ariane Jester wrote: > A bottoming tap is the same diameter > over its entire length, unlike a plug or starter tap. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 8 11:01:53 2000 From: ARoman4047@aol.com To: ryoung@navcomtech.com, Triumphs@autox.team.net, Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 13:01:09 EST Subject: Re: bottoming taps (was TR7 BFH#24-d) I love it! Bruce, you better get this TR roadworthy by Spring...Everybody expects a ride after this collective rebuild;-) Road trip! Road trip! Tony in NJ W.A.S.T.E. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 8 13:58:42 2000 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 12:55:43 -0800 Subject: Restoring Steering Wheels I have a steering wheel for my '55 Alpine that is cracked and the cracks have expanded. Like many other cars, the steering wheel has a metal ring running around the inside and it's covered by this plastic/bakelite type stuff. I know there are services that will restore steering wheels for something over $300. Has anyone tackled this themselves? I was thinking something along the lines of spraying in the cracks with a Rustoleum type paint and then filling the cracks with bondo and sanding to regain the shape. But, I am also worried that the rust inside will continue to expand, causing the cracks to reappear and further separations. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks, Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 8 13:59:38 2000 From: "Taffel, Sherman" To: "Bruce, Lowell T." , Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 16:04:27 -0500 Subject: Final Engine Assembly ? Bruce: I would leave anything off that you might need to access while the engine is in the car. Often pre-assembly from the factory leaves clamps and screws inaccessable once in the engine bay. Waiting may add more time, but save you ffrustration down the road. Sherman Sherman D. Taffel Columbia, MD TR4 4JAgs 2 Jensens 4 Americans Bruce wrote: Final Question -- I'm pondering just how much other stuff to put back on before attempting to put the engine back into the car. It would seem that leaving off the air pump, alternator, fan, and exhaust manifold will make it that much easier to manuver the engine back into the car, and also to get to the engine mounts. Any thoughts, particulary about leaving off the exhaust manifold at this point? And any last minute advice about re-installation also appreciated! Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 8 14:23:19 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 13:22:34 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Restoring Steering Wheels Jay, Eastwood sells a steering wheel resto kit for $13 and a handbook for $12. They also sell steering wheel pullers for $12 if you need one. www.eastwoodcompany.com Never used any of this stuff 'cuz snakes have wood rim wheels. BTW, I have an article on wood rim steering wheel restoration if anyone is interested. Roland > > I have a steering wheel for my '55 Alpine that is cracked and the cracks > have expanded. Like many other cars, the steering wheel has a metal ring > running around the inside and it's covered by this plastic/bakelite type > stuff. I know there are services that will restore steering wheels for > something over $300. Has anyone tackled this themselves? I was thinking > something along the lines of spraying in the cracks with a Rustoleum type > paint and then filling the cracks with bondo and sanding to regain the > shape. But, I am also worried that the rust inside will continue to > expand, causing the cracks to reappear and further separations. Anyone > have any thoughts? > > Thanks, > Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 8 14:47:58 2000 From: Bob Sayers To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 21:04:52 GMT Subject: Re: Barkelys? The message from "Jeffrey H. Boatright" contains these words: > I'm watching Speedvisions's Legends of Motors Sports, "BRSCC 1957" > and one of the featured races at the Brands Hatch August Bank Holiday > races was a type-specific race of what the announcer called "the > supercharged lawnmower race" comprised entirely of a car called a > Barkely (sp?). They look a lot like a spridget front end and frogeye > rear end. > Has anyone ever heard of these cars? Oh, yes, Jeff, but I'm afraid that it's "two nations divided by a common language" time again! You have the pronunciation perfect, but the spelling wrong - it's Berkeley (cue most of the list saying "how could that have possibly sounded like Barkely?") The Berkeley was a Lawrie Bond design, which speaks highly in itself. They originally had a 322cc (that's cc, not ci ...) Anzani engine, which was later replaced by a 328cc Excelsior, a 492cc Excelsior, and a 692cc Royal Enfield (and I'm currently typing this about four hundred yards from the former RE factory). It was produced in both 3 and 4 wheel versions. My records show that the 3-wheeled 328cc version sold over 2,500 units in 1959-60, the four-wheeled verions having sold 2000 in total. Production stopped at the very beginning of 1961, I believe. There are quite a lot still running in the UK, many of them having been retro-fitted with the complete engine/transmission/subframe from a BMC Mini. Some years ago a UK firm re-started production of the car with the Mini engine, but I don't know if they are still available. best regards, Bob -- Liege - the last great British sports car. http://www.ashford-perf.com/Liege and http://www.egroups.com/group/Liege-Car-Club From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 8 15:14:02 2000 From: "John D'Agostino" To: Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 17:13:05 -0500 Subject: Re: Restoring Steering Wheels Hi Jay I've restored two steering wheels, the Daimler and more recently an Impala wheel. First I glass beaded the whole wheel, then used PC7 to fill the large cracks after veeing them out a bit. It cures slow so you can shape it using an Exacto blade and denatured alcohol. You need to get the filler slightly lower than the wheel since it's harder than the original wheel. Then prime with epoxy followed by a good primer surfacer. Sand it out, then use a regular spot putty to fill smaller cracks and to level out the large cracks. Either a laquer based putty or a polyester will work. Remember there will be some shrinking, so let it sit for while. Sand (320 grit) and prime until you get it where you want it, finish sand with 600 and paint it. I used laquer on the daimler, and urethane on the Impala. They both look great, and it's not really hard, there isn't much surface area so sanding and priming is easy. The biggest problem is the shrinking of the filler. Before final sanding let it sit in the sun for a few weeks to minimize the effect. The cracks haven't reappeared, five years later. I did them over the winter, then when I was priming other stuff I would do the wheel. You can save a few bucks to put towards something else. Good luck John ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2000 3:55 PM Subject: Restoring Steering Wheels > I have a steering wheel for my '55 Alpine that is cracked and the cracks > have expanded. Like many other cars, the steering wheel has a metal ring > running around the inside and it's covered by this plastic/bakelite type > stuff. I know there are services that will restore steering wheels for > something over $300. Has anyone tackled this themselves? I was thinking > something along the lines of spraying in the cracks with a Rustoleum type > paint and then filling the cracks with bondo and sanding to regain the > shape. But, I am also worried that the rust inside will continue to > expand, causing the cracks to reappear and further separations. Anyone > have any thoughts? > > Thanks, > Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 8 15:18:58 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: jdagostino@mediaone.net Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 14:18:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Restoring Steering Wheels As it happens the Eastwood kit consists of 2-part PC7. Don't know if that's more than the stuff cost in a hardware store or not. Roland > > Hi Jay > I've restored two steering wheels, the Daimler and more recently an Impala > wheel. > First I glass beaded the whole wheel, then used PC7 to fill the large cracks > after veeing them out a bit. It cures slow so you can shape it using an > Exacto blade and denatured alcohol. You need to get the filler slightly > lower than the wheel since it's harder than the original wheel. > Then prime with epoxy followed by a good primer surfacer. Sand it out, then > use a regular spot putty to fill smaller cracks and to level out the large > cracks. Either a laquer based putty or a polyester will work. Remember there > will be some shrinking, so let it sit for while. Sand (320 grit) and prime > until you get it where you want it, finish sand with 600 and paint it. I > used laquer on the daimler, and urethane on the Impala. > They both look great, and it's not really hard, there isn't much surface > area so sanding and priming is easy. The biggest problem is the shrinking of > the filler. Before final sanding let it sit in the sun for a few weeks to > minimize the effect. The cracks haven't reappeared, five years later. > I did them over the winter, then when I was priming other stuff I would do > the wheel. > You can save a few bucks to put towards something else. > > Good luck > John > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2000 3:55 PM > Subject: Restoring Steering Wheels > > > > I have a steering wheel for my '55 Alpine that is cracked and the cracks > > have expanded. Like many other cars, the steering wheel has a metal ring > > running around the inside and it's covered by this plastic/bakelite type > > stuff. I know there are services that will restore steering wheels for > > something over $300. Has anyone tackled this themselves? I was thinking > > something along the lines of spraying in the cracks with a Rustoleum type > > paint and then filling the cracks with bondo and sanding to regain the > > shape. But, I am also worried that the rust inside will continue to > > expand, causing the cracks to reappear and further separations. Anyone > > have any thoughts? > > > > Thanks, > > Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 8 15:22:10 2000 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: cobra@scs.agilent.com Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 14:19:34 -0800 Subject: Re: Restoring Steering Wheels Thanks for the great tips on the wheel. Roland Dudley on 11/08/2000 02:18:24 PM To: jdagostino@mediaone.net cc: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com, british-cars@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Restoring Steering Wheels As it happens the Eastwood kit consists of 2-part PC7. Don't know if that's more than the stuff cost in a hardware store or not. Roland > > Hi Jay > I've restored two steering wheels, the Daimler and more recently an Impala > wheel. > First I glass beaded the whole wheel, then used PC7 to fill the large cracks > after veeing them out a bit. It cures slow so you can shape it using an > Exacto blade and denatured alcohol. You need to get the filler slightly > lower than the wheel since it's harder than the original wheel. > Then prime with epoxy followed by a good primer surfacer. Sand it out, then > use a regular spot putty to fill smaller cracks and to level out the large > cracks. Either a laquer based putty or a polyester will work. Remember there > will be some shrinking, so let it sit for while. Sand (320 grit) and prime > until you get it where you want it, finish sand with 600 and paint it. I > used laquer on the daimler, and urethane on the Impala. > They both look great, and it's not really hard, there isn't much surface > area so sanding and priming is easy. The biggest problem is the shrinking of > the filler. Before final sanding let it sit in the sun for a few weeks to > minimize the effect. The cracks haven't reappeared, five years later. > I did them over the winter, then when I was priming other stuff I would do > the wheel. > You can save a few bucks to put towards something else. > > Good luck > John > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2000 3:55 PM > Subject: Restoring Steering Wheels > > > > I have a steering wheel for my '55 Alpine that is cracked and the cracks > > have expanded. Like many other cars, the steering wheel has a metal ring > > running around the inside and it's covered by this plastic/bakelite type > > stuff. I know there are services that will restore steering wheels for > > something over $300. Has anyone tackled this themselves? I was thinking > > something along the lines of spraying in the cracks with a Rustoleum type > > paint and then filling the cracks with bondo and sanding to regain the > > shape. But, I am also worried that the rust inside will continue to > > expand, causing the cracks to reappear and further separations. Anyone > > have any thoughts? > > > > Thanks, > > Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 8 15:58:21 2000 From: "John D'Agostino" To: Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 17:57:31 -0500 Subject: Sprite update Hi folks I dragged the Sprite home the other day, and cleaned out all the mice nests, yuck. Turns out it's a 68 not a 65, and has been in their garage for 27 years! (so they say). The motor is free, there is not too much rust, the drivers rocker area is the bad spot. First time I've seen a repair made with newspaper, window screen and bondo, (Boston Sunday Globe 1979 to be exact). There is also a spare 1098 cc motor trans and rearend. Tried to start it, but the fuel pump is not working. As usual the electrics have been messed with. The ignition switch is missing, and the directionals are questionable. The entire floor, and engine compartment have been painter with bright green paint that is peeling. Never thought I would have any interest in a Sprite, but It's goofy enough to be interesting. Just what I need, another project car, as if an Impala and three kids aren't enough. At least its small, I think there is more surface area on the Impala hood than the whole Sprite! John From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 9 08:24:45 2000 From: thollida@regents.edu To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 08:25:58 -0500 Subject: newbie tackling spridget restoration Hello, I am in the beginning stages of rebuilding a '68 sprite shell using a '70 midget as the donor for drivetrain, etc. Much to my dismay, when I drained the transmission, most of the fluid was water. The drivetrain has at least 126k miles on it, so I'm sure the tranny needs a rebuild. For a novice mechanic, am I tackling something that should be handled by a professional repair shop, or is this something that through patience and a good repair manual, can be done by the newbie? Would I be better off looking at a five speed conversion? If a professional mechanic is the answer (my feelings wont be hurt), can anyone suggest a good shop in the upstate New York area. Thanks in advance for any suggestion/advice. Many, many more questions to follow. Tom H. Regents College Albany, NY From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 9 08:45:44 2000 From: "J Arzt" To: thollida@regents.edu, british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 09:45:06 CST Subject: Re: newbie tackling spridget restoration Water is a BAD thing inside a precision machined unit like a transmission. I'm not familiar with that particular trans - if it has a cover you can remove to inspect it, I'd look inside. If there's rust on the gears, I would suspect a used trans would be the cheapest and safest bet. Hope this helps! Jon Arzt >From: thollida@regents.edu >Reply-To: thollida@regents.edu >To: british-cars@autox.team.net >Subject: newbie tackling spridget restoration >Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 08:25:58 -0500 > >Hello, > >I am in the beginning stages of rebuilding a '68 sprite shell using a '70 >midget >as the donor for drivetrain, etc. Much to my dismay, when I drained the >transmission, most of the fluid was water. The drivetrain has at least >126k >miles on it, so I'm sure the tranny needs a rebuild. For a novice >mechanic, am >I tackling something that should be handled by a professional repair shop, >or is >this something that through patience and a good repair manual, can be done >by >the newbie? Would I be better off looking at a five speed conversion? If >a >professional mechanic is the answer (my feelings wont be hurt), can anyone >suggest a good shop in the upstate New York area. > >Thanks in advance for any suggestion/advice. Many, many more questions to >follow. > >Tom H. >Regents College >Albany, NY _________________________________________________________________________ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 9 08:58:59 2000 From: TATERRY@aol.com To: thollida@regents.edu, british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 10:57:20 EST Subject: Re: newbie tackling spridget restoration In a message dated 00-11-09 10:25:24 EST, thollida@regents.edu writes: << can be done by the newbie? Would I be better off looking at a five speed conversion? >> My opinion, is that you can do it unless the stuff in there is severely distressed from the water.....cost wise, you might be better off with the conversion, I did it and its not hard to do and it just transforms the performance of the car. I've got two ribcage gearboxes that I'd like to get rid of...one in unknown shape and one that was in my car before I did the conversion....it was in pretty good shape having been rebuilt by a pro....I'm in Oakland, CA so not very close to you..... Terry From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 9 09:21:37 2000 From: "Glen Wilson" To: "British Car Mailing List" , Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 11:19:34 -0500 Subject: The Unfair Advantage by Mark Donohue The Unfair Advantage by Mark Donohue is back in print for $20-$25 for the paperback edition. I picked this up a few days ago, and it is simply a fantastic book. It is divided up by racing car with Mark's acount of the development of the vehicle and a bit on the racing action. It's a hard book to put down, and I would recommend it strongly. Paperback - 325 pages 2 Ed edition (September 2000) Bentley Publishers; ISBN: 0837600693 Other Editions: Hardcover From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 9 09:28:38 2000 From: John Coelho To: Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 11:28:05 -0500 Subject: Re: Barkleys? They handled beautifully and had great brakes and were pretty successful little racing cars. Great fun to drive when they were running. I have a few pictures of Berkeleys and pieces of same at a site I recently put up called http://coldplugs.homestead.com if anyone's interested. John C - -----Original Message----- From: Jeffrey H. Boatright To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, November 07, 2000 8:04 PM Subject: Barkelys? >I'm watching Speedvisions's Legends of Motors Sports, "BRSCC 1957" >and one of the featured races at the Brands Hatch August Bank Holiday >races was a type-specific race of what the announcer called "the >supercharged lawnmower race" comprised entirely of a car called a >Barkely (sp?). They look a lot like a spridget front end and frogeye >rear end. > >Has anyone ever heard of these cars? From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 9 21:45:44 2000 From: "Fred Thomas" To: Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 20:17:45 -0500 Subject: powder-coat Listers, anyone thinking of doing P/C and have not purchased a kit yet, you should check out the kit from Harbour-Freight (99.00), much more sturdier and heavier built than Eastwoods, several added features the other kit does not have, such as, foot feed instead of a handle held electric charge to the coated part, this leaves you with a free hand, 2 seperate air control vavles for more even air flow, gravity feed over head cup container, instead of air pushing the powder out, and a much heavier transformer supply box, nice unit, I received mine today, try it tomorrow. If you have any interest, you can check it out on their web page item # 42802 @ www.harbourfreight.com "FT" From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 9 23:03:16 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 13:12:53 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#24-e Found the bottom taps I needed in Durham, and put the rest of the Keenserts in this morning. Used four Keenserts and 3 heliocoils and was able to stay with the original diameter 3/8" bolts which all can now be easily torqued to 34 foot pounds. So, I'm back to where I started last Saturday morning. One of the four bolts holding the fan belt to the timing chain cover is also stripped, so I'll "keensert" that one tomorrow, and then try to make headway getting new clutch and old transmission re-connected to the engine this weekend prior to the Great Engine Back Into The Car show which hopefully will happen soon. Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 9 23:08:13 2000 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Richard Feibusch) To: "Jeffrey H. Boatright" Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 09:52:42 -0800 (PST) Subject: Berkeleys!!! Jeff, Try this for more info! Berkeley Owners Club 1425 Kenwood Road, Santa Barbara, CA 93109 Jamie Pfeiffer: 805-966-0973 Rick Feibusch Venice, CA ********************************************** Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 20:50:32 -0500 From: "Jeffrey H. Boatright" Subject: Barkelys? I'm watching Speedvisions's Legends of Motors Sports, "BRSCC 1957" and one of the featured races at the Brands Hatch August Bank Holiday races was a type-specific race of what the announcer called "the supercharged lawnmower race" comprised entirely of a car called a Barkely (sp?). They look a lot like a spridget front end and frogeye rear end. Has anyone ever heard of these cars? Jeff From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 9 23:09:15 2000 From: Fred Talmadge To: "British Car Mailing List" Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 18:56:09 -0600 Subject: Re: The Unfair Advantage by Mark Donohue And has a nice chapter on his Elva Courier! Fred Talmadge Elva Courier Home Page At 11:19 AM 11/9/2000 -0500, Glen Wilson wrote: >The Unfair Advantage by Mark Donohue is back in print for $20-$25 for the >paperback edition. I picked this up a few days ago, and it is simply a >fantastic book. It is divided up by racing car with Mark's acount of the >development of the vehicle and a bit on the racing action. It's a hard book >to put down, and I would recommend it strongly. > >Paperback - 325 pages 2 Ed edition (September 2000) >Bentley Publishers; ISBN: 0837600693 >Other Editions: Hardcover From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 9 23:11:54 2000 From: "Eugene D Abbondelo" To: british-cars@autox.team.net, Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 14:12:07 -0500 Subject: Re: Restoring Steering Wheels Somehow I remember a thread on this quite a while back and I think one listmember had success using a 2 part epoxy filler (J-B Weld? or is this only for metal) and painting; also, I think someone else said a kit was available from Eastwood Co. for steering wheel repairs. Gene 1949 Singer Roadster >>> 11/08 3:55 PM >>> I have a steering wheel for my '55 Alpine that is cracked and the cracks have expanded. Like many other cars, the steering wheel has a metal ring running around the inside and it's covered by this plastic/bakelite type stuff. I know there are services that will restore steering wheels for something over $300. Has anyone tackled this themselves? I was thinking something along the lines of spraying in the cracks with a Rustoleum type paint and then filling the cracks with bondo and sanding to regain the shape. But, I am also worried that the rust inside will continue to expand, causing the cracks to reappear and further separations. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks, Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 9 23:18:00 2000 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Richard Feibusch) To: "Triumph Nut" Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 09:52:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: In search of British truck Jack, Good question. There were only four British commercial vehicles commercially imported to the US; the Morris Minor, the larger Austin A40, the Ford Thames (Anglia based) and a few Commer (Hillman Minx based). All but the Commer were available as a van and pickup. The Commer was available as a sedan delivery and a flat fronted forward control van/bus (kind of like a cross between a VW and a Ford Econoline. Come to think of it the Thames came as a van/bus as well. All are pretty small and all are very rare, even in the UK. There was a fellow in California who, back in the early 1980s who built a 10 wheel semi tractor/trailer combo using a Morris minor pickup. removed the bed, extended the frame and added another axel then constructed a 17 foot long flatbed trailer. It was beautifully done, stainless side stack and all, and looked like a 1940s American truck way farther away! He used it as a car hauler for his Morris Minor repair business for over a decade and 100,000 miles. The truck still exists but I doubt that the owner will sell it. He'd rather let it rot away cause he's just that kinda guy! Pity. My suggestion would be to either buy a Austin or Morris van for advertizing and haul American or you will have to think about droping a more available Morris pickup cab body on an extended Toyota pickup chassis. I've seen this done - better you should use a cab section from a rotten Morris woody (6" longer than the pickup for more legroom) and bolt on the cab back from a Morris pickup. You also could consider using a Austin FX4 taxi as a base for a truck conversion. Good luck on your quest. Cheers, Rick Feibusch Venice, CA Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 21:46:59 EST From: "Triumph Nut" Subject: In search of British truck This might be a little off the wall, but who better to give advice on this subject. I own a small restoration shop in Hollywood, Florida we restore, you guessed it, British cars. We have been thinking of buying a flatbed to replace our car hauler trailer, but I would rather create something more unique, find a British truck cab and modify the rear by extending frame, etc. Jack Levy www.driveableclassics.com From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 01:03:06 2000 From: thollida@regents.edu To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 15:41:26 -0500 Subject: thanks for the encouragement and advice Thanks to everyone who responded on my tranny question. Yeah, fear does play a role in pulling one of these apart, but I was able to convince my wife that this was a worth while project, so the hardest part is over. Now I just need to hide the invoices for parts!! Thanks again - Tom H. Regents College Albany, NY From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 01:05:13 2000 From: Kevin Sullivan To: John Coelho Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 12:13:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: Barkleys? On Thu, 9 Nov 2000, John Coelho wrote: > I have a few pictures of Berkeleys and pieces of same at a site I > recently put up called http://coldplugs.homestead.com if anyone's > interested. Wow! Beautiful pictures! Thanks for sharing them with us! -- Kevin Sullivan kevins@khoral.com Khoral Research Inc. Albuquerque NM USA 1968 Dodge W-200 Crewcab "PW" www.khoral.com/staff/kevins/dodge 1960 MGA "Baby" www.khoral.com/staff/kevins/mgstuff 1957 Magnette ZB "Pup" 1959 Magnette ZB "P2" From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 01:07:49 2000 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Richard Feibusch) To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 15:04:29 -0800 (PST) Subject: In search of British truck Jack, Good question. There were only four British commercial vehicles commercially imported to the US; the Morris Minor, the larger Austin A40, the Ford Thames (Anglia based) and a few Commer (Hillman Minx based). All but the Commer were available as a van and pickup. The Commer was available as a sedan delivery and a flat fronted forward control van/bus (kind of like a cross between a VW and a Ford Econoline. Come to think of it the Thames came as a van/bus as well. All are pretty small and all are very rare, even in the UK. There was a fellow in California who, back in the early 1980s who built a 10 wheel semi tractor/trailer combo using a Morris minor pickup. removed the bed, extended the frame and added another axel then constructed a 17 foot long flatbed trailer. It was beautifully done, stainless side stack and all, and looked like a 1940s American truck way farther away! He used it as a car hauler for his Morris Minor repair business for over a decade and 100,000 miles. The truck still exists but I doubt that the owner will sell it. He'd rather let it rot away cause he's just that kinda guy! Pity. My suggestion would be to either buy a Austin or Morris van for advertizing and haul American or you will have to think about droping a more available Morris pickup cab body on an extended Toyota pickup chassis. I've seen this done - better you should use a cab section from a rotten Morris woody (6" longer than the pickup for more legroom) and bolt on the cab back from a Morris pickup. You also could consider using a Austin FX4 taxi as a base for a truck conversion. Good luck on your quest. Cheers, Rick Feibusch Venice, CA Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 21:46:59 EST From: "Triumph Nut" Subject: In search of British truck This might be a little off the wall, but who better to give advice on this subject. I own a small restoration shop in Hollywood, Florida we restore, you guessed it, British cars. We have been thinking of buying a flatbed to replace our car hauler trailer, but I would rather create something more unique, find a British truck cab and modify the rear by extending frame, etc. Jack Levy www.driveableclassics.com From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 01:05:12 2000 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Richard Feibusch) To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 15:03:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: Berkeleys!!! Jeff, Try this for more info! Berkeley Owners Club 1425 Kenwood Road, Santa Barbara, CA 93109 Jamie Pfeiffer: 805-966-0973 Rick Feibusch Venice, CA ********************************************** Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 20:50:32 -0500 From: "Jeffrey H. Boatright" Subject: Barkelys? I'm watching Speedvisions's Legends of Motors Sports, "BRSCC 1957" and one of the featured races at the Brands Hatch August Bank Holiday races was a type-specific race of what the announcer called "the supercharged lawnmower race" comprised entirely of a car called a Barkely (sp?). They look a lot like a spridget front end and frogeye rear end. Has anyone ever heard of these cars? Jeff From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 05:34:34 2000 From: "Fred Thomas" To: , Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 08:01:24 -0500 Subject: Re: thanks for the encouragement and advice Well Tom what was the hardest part, the "fear" of the part or the "fear" of the wife. "FT" > Thanks to everyone who responded on my tranny question. Yeah, fear does play a > role in pulling one of these apart, but I was able to convince my wife that this > was a worth while project, so the hardest part is over. Now I just need to hide > the invoices for parts!! > > Thanks again - > > Tom H. > Regents College > Albany, NY From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 09:15:11 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 08:12:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: XKs Unlimited Knock-off Wrench I find that for routine maintenance I have to remove the wheels from my snake far more often than I do for my other cars. XKs Unlimited sells a wrench for eared knock-offs for $30 I'm thinking about ordering. I'm wondering if anyone on the list has one, and if so what you think of it. >From the picture it appears to be made of wood and is similar to one I have the plans for and was thinking about making. One concern I have is whether or not my knock-offs ('64 AC Cobra) are the same size as Jag knock-offs. The ears on Jag knock-offs project at opposite angles from mine, but I'm guessing I could just flip the wrench over. I plan to call and ask about this before ordering, but if the consensus is that these wrenches are worthless, I won't bother. I have a lead knock-off hammer, but they don't last very long (I'm on my 3rd one) and after making a mess of my original knock-offs with a copper hammer, I don't want to go that route, either. Beside, a wrench seems like a painless way to go to me. Thanks in advance for your thoughts, Roland From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 09:32:04 2000 From: tjhiggin@chris.iss.ingr.com (T.J. Higgins) To: cobra@scs.agilent.com Date: Fri, 10 Nov 00 10:31:25 CST Subject: Re: XKs Unlimited Knock-off Wrench Roland Dudley writes: > I find that for routine maintenance I have to remove the wheels from my > snake far more often than I do for my other cars. XKs Unlimited sells a > wrench for eared knock-offs for $30 I'm thinking about ordering. I'm > wondering if anyone on the list has one, and if so what you think of it. > From the picture it appears to be made of wood and is similar to one I > have the plans for and was thinking about making. Strange coincidence. In Thursday's snail mail I received a catalog from www.triple-c.com (what's wrong with this picture? :^) Anyway, I noticed that they have a metal knock-off wrench for $40. Their web site also shows what they call a "protective knock-off wrench" for $22. This nothing more than a metal plate with a hole cut out for the knock-off. You place the plate over the knock-off and then beat the plate with the hammer. It's kind of hard to describe, go to the URL below to see a picture. If you have the proper metal-cutting tools you could make one of these plate things. Both the tools can be seen at http://www.mailordercentral.com/triple-c/products.asp?dept=46 I have no financial connection to triple-c.com. -- T.J. Higgins tjhiggin@ingr.com Huntsville, AL From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 10:10:55 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: tjhiggin@chris.iss.ingr.com Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 09:10:18 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: XKs Unlimited Knock-off Wrench Thanks TJ, I'll check this site out. One thing I didn't mention about XKs' and home the built version is that they have long extension on them, so no hammer wacking (hopefully) is required. This is the main thing that appealed to me about them. Another thought that occurred to me, and this might work for all variations was to put lead sheet on the contact surfaces. I just don't like the idea of metal-to-metal contact, except for something soft like lead. Roland > Roland Dudley writes: > > I find that for routine maintenance I have to remove the wheels from my > > snake far more often than I do for my other cars. XKs Unlimited sells a > > wrench for eared knock-offs for $30 I'm thinking about ordering. I'm > > wondering if anyone on the list has one, and if so what you think of it. > > From the picture it appears to be made of wood and is similar to one I > > have the plans for and was thinking about making. > > Strange coincidence. In Thursday's snail mail I received a catalog > from www.triple-c.com (what's wrong with this picture? :^) > > Anyway, I noticed that they have a metal knock-off wrench for $40. > Their web site also shows what they call a "protective knock-off > wrench" for $22. This nothing more than a metal plate with a hole cut > out for the knock-off. You place the plate over the knock-off and > then beat the plate with the hammer. It's kind of hard to describe, > go to the URL below to see a picture. If you have the proper > metal-cutting tools you could make one of these plate things. > > Both the tools can be seen at > http://www.mailordercentral.com/triple-c/products.asp?dept=46 > > I have no financial connection to triple-c.com. > > -- > T.J. Higgins > tjhiggin@ingr.com > Huntsville, AL From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 10:17:57 2000 From: Trmgafun@aol.com To: Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 12:16:57 EST Subject: Restoration Shop in New Hampshire? Hi, I was recently contacted by a woman in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, who is looking for a reliable local restoration shop to work on her '59 MGA. Anyone on these lists have any recommendations for her?? Much thanks, Scott Helms Trmgafun@aol.com From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 10:22:55 2000 From: "Taffel, Sherman" To: "'Eganb@aol.com'" , Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 12:29:27 -0500 Subject: Helicoils, Keensert, 'Coffee Table' ------------------------------ BRUCE wrote: Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2000 20:14:35 EST From: Eganb@aol.com Subject: TR7 BFH#24-c >I've become intrigued with a solid insert called a Keensert mentioned by a number of you. >Maybe I can use the whole car as a coffee table.... Hi Bruce: On my aircraft, which has a 4 cyl Lycoming Turbo aircraft, the exhjaust pipes mount on top of the cyliders. We had to make special 7/16" wrench heads with thin U heads, welded to a pencil shaft to get the nuts off the studs. Several broke from 26 years of service (needed to replace gaskets) We drilled out the old studs and used helicoils. Is been five years and about 300 hours (= 5,000 miles at 1575^) and they are still fine. Used antiseize as well. Your helicoils should hold. The keenserts are an extra neat product. Years ago I had a stripped bolt hole for a water pump/thermostat hopusing on my 4.2 Jag. I used a sliver of a plastic coke bottle as a temporary measure, but since I had not leaks a year later- I let it be. Not good for exhaust manifolds, but the keensert insert uses the same extra tension principal. Years ago, landing back in Oklahoma (OK City)for a visit, my NYC born and business-woman mother insisted we had to go to a nearby restaurant she found for lunch. The restaurant 'Molly Murphys' was acedar shaked building and shaped outside like a combination of a Russian and Middle Eastern domed building-especially the Roof Turets. Inside the Salad bar was a walk-around oval, encompassing -- a Red Jaguar E-Type Roadster buried 1/4 up in plant foilage- the entire cockpit w/out windshield, covered over with stainless steel 'offering up' the Salad and Soup offerings. I had a 4.2 E-Type roadster at the time and felt it was a 'waste' of such a beautiful car. In retrospect- it was pretty neat! Sherman From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 10:37:03 2000 From: John McEwen To: rfeibusch@loop.com (Richard Feibusch) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 10:26:28 -0700 Subject: Re: In search of British truck Hi Rick: Here in Canda, we had all of those vehicles mentioned - with quite few A 40 panels and a lot of pickups. However, we also had Standard Vanguard vans and pickups as well as quite a few Bedford vans. There were no larger vehicles however. There are presently 3 Vanguard pickups advertised for sale in Calgary and I know of a couple of A40 panels and pickups here in Edmonton. John McEwen >Jack, > >Good question. There were only four British commercial vehicles >commercially imported to the US; the Morris Minor, the larger Austin A40, >the Ford Thames (Anglia based) and a few Commer (Hillman Minx based). All >but the Commer were available as a van and pickup. The Commer was available >as a sedan delivery and a flat fronted forward control van/bus (kind of >like a cross between a VW and a Ford Econoline. Come to think of it the >Thames came as a van/bus as well. snip.... From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 15:22:27 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 16:43:52 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#25 Well, will see how far I get this weekend. I'm still concerned that the front oil seal seems like such a "light" fit over the crankshaft. T.Hoff says that when they turned the crank, they only cleaned up the front shaft where the pulley attaches, and didn't turn that part. So, does the front oil seal normally not grip all that tight? Any way I can make sure it ain't gonna leak? Put oil in the crankcase and tip the engine forward? Also, I plan to run the engine with 10-30 oil for the first 25 minutes. Any final comments on that? Have a good weekend. Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 15:25:08 2000 From: "Peter C." To: Eganb@aol.com, Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 16:16:48 -0600 Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#25 Hie thee to a local parts store for a "Speedi Sleeve" aka "Redi Sleeve" in CR or National. Part numbers 99179 or 88179. Gives you a stainless running surface within the seal tolerances. HTH Peter C - At 03:43 PM 11/10/2000, Eganb@aol.com wrote: >Well, will see how far I get this weekend. I'm still concerned that the >front oil seal seems like such a "light" fit over the crankshaft. T.Hoff >says that when they turned the crank, they only cleaned up the front shaft >where the pulley attaches, and didn't turn that part. > >So, does the front oil seal normally not grip all that tight? Any way I can >make sure it ain't gonna leak? Put oil in the crankcase and tip the engine >forward? > >Also, I plan to run the engine with 10-30 oil for the first 25 minutes. Any >final comments on that? > >Have a good weekend. > >Bruce >1980 Inca Yellow TR7 >Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 15:37:01 2000 From: busyrider@springmail.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 17:36:01 -0500 Subject: Re: XKs Unlimited Knock-off Wrench Why not just melt down those used lead hammers and recast them? Fred Criswell You Wrote: I find that for routine maintenance I have to remove the wheels from my snake far more often than I do for my other cars. XKs Unlimited sells a wrench for eared knock-offs for $30 I'm thinking about ordering. I'm wondering if anyone on the list has one, and if so what you think of it. >From the picture it appears to be made of wood and is similar to one I have the plans for and was thinking about making. One concern I have is whether or not my knock-offs ('64 AC Cobra) are the same size as Jag knock-offs. The ears on Jag knock-offs project at opposite angles from mine, but I'm guessing I could just flip the wrench over. I plan to call and ask about this before ordering, but if the consensus is that these wrenches are worthless, I won't bother. I have a lead knock-off hammer, but they don't last very long (I'm on my 3rd one) and after making a mess of my original knock-offs with a copper hammer, I don't want to go that route, either. Beside, a wrench seems like a painless way to go to me. Thanks in advance for your thoughts, Roland From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 15:49:42 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: busyrider@springmail.com Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 14:49:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: XKs Unlimited Knock-off Wrench Some things just aren't worth the effort. Plus I'd have to 1) buy a melting pot, 2) buy the little stove to melt it on, 3) make/buy(?) a mold that would accept molten lead. How many lead hammers would the total cost add up to, anyway? Besides, if I can eliminate the need, so much the better. Roland > > Why not just melt down those used lead hammers and recast them? > > Fred Criswell From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 16:19:15 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: tjhiggin@chris.iss.ingr.com Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 12:31:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: XKs Unlimited Knock-off Wrench TJ I just checked this site. The $22 wrench is apparently the same brand as the one sold by XKs, 'cuz even the ad blurb is the identical. However, I believe this one is the correct size for my car and the XLs one most likely isn't. Thanks again, Roland > > Roland Dudley writes: > > I find that for routine maintenance I have to remove the wheels from my > > snake far more often than I do for my other cars. XKs Unlimited sells a > > wrench for eared knock-offs for $30 I'm thinking about ordering. I'm > > wondering if anyone on the list has one, and if so what you think of it. > > From the picture it appears to be made of wood and is similar to one I > > have the plans for and was thinking about making. > > Strange coincidence. In Thursday's snail mail I received a catalog > from www.triple-c.com (what's wrong with this picture? :^) > > Anyway, I noticed that they have a metal knock-off wrench for $40. > Their web site also shows what they call a "protective knock-off > wrench" for $22. This nothing more than a metal plate with a hole cut > out for the knock-off. You place the plate over the knock-off and > then beat the plate with the hammer. It's kind of hard to describe, > go to the URL below to see a picture. If you have the proper > metal-cutting tools you could make one of these plate things. > > Both the tools can be seen at > http://www.mailordercentral.com/triple-c/products.asp?dept=46 > > I have no financial connection to triple-c.com. > > -- > T.J. Higgins > tjhiggin@ingr.com > Huntsville, AL From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 16:46:24 2000 From: "David Tinker" To: , Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 23:30:44 -0000 Subject: Re: XKs Unlimited Knock-off Wrench Here in the UK we use Hide ( leather ) hammers which does not damage the knock on ears. Regards David Tinker 51 MGTD 54 MGTF 66 S1 E 2+2 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Friday, November 10, 2000 10:36 PM Subject: Re: XKs Unlimited Knock-off Wrench > Why not just melt down those used lead hammers and recast them? > > Fred Criswell > > You Wrote: > I find that for routine maintenance I have to remove the wheels from my > snake far more often than I do for my other cars. XKs Unlimited sells a > wrench for eared knock-offs for $30 I'm thinking about ordering. I'm > wondering if anyone on the list has one, and if so what you think of it. > >From the picture it appears to be made of wood and is similar to one I > have the plans for and was thinking about making. > > One concern I have is whether or not my knock-offs ('64 AC Cobra) are > the same size as Jag knock-offs. The ears on Jag knock-offs project at > opposite angles from mine, but I'm guessing I could just flip the wrench > over. I plan to call and ask about this before ordering, but if the > consensus is that these wrenches are worthless, I won't bother. I > have a lead knock-off hammer, but they don't last very long (I'm > on my 3rd one) and after making a mess of my original knock-offs with a > copper hammer, I don't want to go that route, either. Beside, a > wrench seems like a painless way to go to me. > > Thanks in advance for your thoughts, > > Roland From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 16:47:51 2000 From: "David Tinker" To: "Roland Dudley" , Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 23:26:09 -0000 Subject: Re: XKs Unlimited Knock-off Wrench Here in the UK it is possible to purchase a Wooden knock off wrench made from hardwood for the removal of knock on eared hub nuts.I have no connection and would ( no pun intended ) have to search to source the vendor. If you want more info let me know. Regards David Tinker 51 MGTD 54 MGTF 66 E1 2+2 ----- Original Message ----- From: Roland Dudley To: Cc: ; Sent: Friday, November 10, 2000 10:49 PM Subject: Re: XKs Unlimited Knock-off Wrench > Some things just aren't worth the effort. Plus I'd have to 1) buy a > melting pot, 2) buy the little stove to melt it on, 3) make/buy(?) a > mold that would accept molten lead. How many lead hammers would the > total cost add up to, anyway? > > Besides, if I can eliminate the need, so much the better. > > Roland > > > > > Why not just melt down those used lead hammers and recast them? > > > > Fred Criswell From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 16:53:17 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: david.tinker@virgin.net (David Tinker) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 15:52:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: XKs Unlimited Knock-off Wrench Yes, these are available here too. In fact I think the combo copper/hide Thor hammers are available from several sources. I'm looking for something for easy garage use- no wacking and no digging of nearby objects. Roland > Here in the UK we use Hide ( leather ) hammers which does not damage the > knock on ears. > Regards > David Tinker From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 17:44:03 2000 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 16:41:30 -0800 Subject: Jaguar steering part for sale I purchased from XKs Unlimited two pins and bush assemblies for the steering linkage for an XK120. These are a fancy upgrade has a small ball joint riding in a nylon cup, rather than the rubber donut which cracks and wears quickly. They are sold for $29.95 each. I bought them to see if they would fit the similar part on my Alpine, which they will not without some machining of the Alpine part. But, now I see that XKs Unlimited charges a 20% restocking fees - jerks! So, rather than give them the restocking fee, I was hoping someone out there might want them. I will sell them for $50, you pay the shipping. Let me know if you are interested. Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 17:44:47 2000 From: Bob Nogueira To: "BRITISH-CARS@AUTOX>TEAM" , Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 18:28:02 -0500 Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#24-d -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- Okay I propose the list take up a collection to purchase Bruce another project car when he finishes the TR-7. God I love reading of the daily adventures of Bruce in the Garage!!! Bob -------- REPLY, Original message follows -------- > Date: Tuesday, 07-Nov-00 06:32 PM > > From: Eganb@aol.com \ America Online: (EGANB) > To: BRITISH-CARS@AUTOX>TEAM \ Internet: (british-cars@autox.team.net ) > To: tr8@mercury.lcs.mit.edu \ Internet: (tr8@mercury.lcs.mit.edu) > To: Triumphs \ Internet: (triumphs@autox.team.net) > > Subject: TR7 BFH#24-d > > I'm here to testify that there is absolutely nothing as beautiful as a > Keensert sitting in a freshly tapped hole, just itching to show a torque > wrench what it can do. Even though it's raining, I tried a couple of > Keenserts tonight, and they seem to have worked perfectly, and they easily > took 34 foot pounds. The local dealer only had six, and I have seven holes, > but again I think the heliocoils are holding in at least two holes, so I > should be fine. > > Now, an interesting problem has come up. The blind bottom holes are very > shallow, and the tap doesn't go far enough in to cut enough threads to make me > feel comfortable. As you know, the tap is the largest about in the middle, so > you really need to have the middle part go all the way to the "bottom" of > where you want threads. > > Possible solution -- buy a second tap, and cut it off a third of the way up. > Use the first tap to get started, and the second to finish the job? Is that > possible? and can you even cut through these taps? Or is there another > obvious solution? > > By the way, here's another "goof" for you professionals to groan over. When I > first started with the stripped threads business, I flipped the engine upside > down on the engine stand to make it easier to work on. The very first hole I > drilled out worked fine, except I forgot to cover the exhaust ports, and of > course some spiral pieces of aluminum dropped right down into two of them . > > Panicing, I got our relatively new house vacuum out, inserted the crevice > tool, and stuck it down the exhaust ports to suck up whatever may have fallen > in. It looked like I got the pieces out, but still not satisfied, I > duct-taped a small plastic tube to the crevice tool, and used that to probe > even further into the ports. It was about that time that my wife drives up, > and of course spots the vacuum which I tried to hide behind the garbage cans. > I manged to skirt the issue of "what was I doing," and successfully hid the > duct-taped rube-goldberg contraption hanging off the vacuum. Now I have duct > tape over the ports while drilling out the rest of the holes. > > I keep trying to remember, it's not the destination that counts, it's the > journey! > > Bruce > 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible > Chapel Hill, NC -------- REPLY, End of original message -------- _____________________________________ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 19:00:11 2000 From: "R. O. Lindsay" To: British-cars@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 15:28:51 -0600 Subject: Engine paint colors Hi Gang, This weekend I am going to be at the point of repainting some of the engine bits for the '70 B-GT. The engine will be dark red but a few of the other bits I am not sure about. Can you please help? The coolant pipe: Black? Red? (that runs among the top of the rocker box) The timing chain cover: Red? Black? Exhaust headers: Black? White? Natural? Water pump: Red to match engine? Water pump pulley: Yellow to match fan? Thanks. -- Rick Lindsay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 19:01:02 2000 From: Tab Julius To: Trmgafun@aol.com, Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 13:28:28 -0500 Subject: Re: Restoration Shop in New Hampshire? Right around the corner from her, in Rye, is McLean's Brit Bits (http://www.britbits.com). Can't find anything better. - Tab At 12:16 PM 11/10/00 -0500, Trmgafun@aol.com wrote: >Hi, > >I was recently contacted by a woman in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, who is >looking for a reliable local restoration shop to work on her '59 MGA. Anyone >on these lists have any recommendations for her?? > >Much thanks, > >Scott Helms From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 10 20:41:52 2000 From: Mike Denman To: Fred Thomas Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 19:43:26 -0800 Subject: Re: powder-coat Fred, How about a report on the PC system once you have used it. In the picture it certainly looks nice. On the other hand Eastwood has a "try it for 30 day and then return it if not satisfied guarantee". Where are you buying the paint, plugs, and tape... Eastwood or does Harbour sell it as well? Ideally we could compare each unit in a side by side test but I would certainly be interested in your opinion of the Harbour Freight system. Mike Denman 1966 Marcos 1965 Lotus 7 Fred Thomas wrote: > > Listers, anyone thinking of doing P/C and have not purchased a kit yet, you > should check out the kit from Harbour-Freight (99.00), much more sturdier > and heavier built than Eastwoods, several added features the other kit does > not have, such as, foot feed instead of a handle held electric charge to the > coated part, this leaves you with a free hand, 2 seperate air control vavles > for more even air flow, gravity feed over head cup container, instead of air > pushing the powder out, and a much heavier transformer supply box, nice > unit, I received mine today, try it tomorrow. If you have any interest, you > can check it out on their web page item # 42802 @ www.harbourfreight.com > "FT" From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sat Nov 11 06:38:58 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 08:36:35 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#26 I'm tempted to put on a Speedi Sleeve on the rear of the crank to help prevent oil leakage from the rear seal after it starts to wear. I haven't installed the back plate with the rear oil seal yet. If the front oil seal leaks at a later point, I should be able to put in a sleeve later with the car still in the engine. I could do it now, but I would have to pull the timing chain cover off, get new gaskets, etc.... Any thoughts on this, and anyone happen to know the exact diameter of a TR7 crank at either end? Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sat Nov 11 07:33:15 2000 From: BROWNING_G_WILLIAM@Lilly.com To: British-cars@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 09:30:12 -0500 Subject: exhaust system for 1967 Austin Healey BJ8 any suggestions for exhaust system for BJ8, have midas, etc make it?, buy from Moss, etc ????? I dont want to lose the sound I have now but it needs replacing, I dont want it to sound like a camry,,,, thanks,, Bill B 67 BJ8 Charlotte From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sat Nov 11 08:09:28 2000 From: CAWS52803@aol.com To: BROWNING_G_WILLIAM@lilly.com, British-cars@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 10:08:34 EST Subject: Re: exhaust system for 1967 Austin Healey BJ8 Hi Bill, The only recommendation I would make is to replace it with a stainless steel system. If you plan to keep the car, it makes sense and even if you don't, it would be a good selling point. I put them on my BJ8 and BN4 and the sound is great. Rudy Streng in Lenoir, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sat Nov 11 12:38:36 2000 From: Barney Gaylord To: Eganb@aol.com Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 13:37:22 -0600 Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#26 At 08:36 AM 11/11/2000 EST, Eganb@aol.com wrote: >.... >.... I should be able to put in a sleeve later with the car still in the engine. .... I'm sorry, but I can't help myself. You left WHAT in the engine? Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sat Nov 11 15:08:30 2000 From: "Glen Wilson" To: "Barney Gaylord" , Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 17:06:34 -0500 Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#26 Barney, I think he said he left a sleeve in the engine with the car. Glen ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barney Gaylord" To: Cc: ; Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2000 2:37 PM Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#26 > At 08:36 AM 11/11/2000 EST, Eganb@aol.com wrote: > >.... > >.... I should be able to put in a sleeve later with the car still in the > engine. .... > > I'm sorry, but I can't help myself. You left WHAT in the engine? > > Barney Gaylord > 1958 MGA with an attitude > http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sat Nov 11 16:02:03 2000 From: ARoman4047@aol.com To: rstca@hemmings.com, barneymg@ntsource.com, Eganb@aol.com Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 18:00:38 EST Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#26 Bruce- I checked the archives. A sleeve will fit with the car in the engine, but it's got to be under sized... Tony in NJ W.A.S.T.E. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sat Nov 11 17:44:52 2000 From: BritshIron@aol.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 19:44:11 EST Subject: Fwd: London Cab I asked this question on my Roverlist and came away with a list of London Cabs in the US. It was quite surprising to see the amount imported into the states. I am willing to trade my Austin Somerset for a LHD London Cab circa 1964 with a diesel in roughly the same shape as my Austin which is a running car that needs finishing. Thanks all. Roland 52 Austin Somerset 54 Rover P4 60 Rover P5 66 Rover P6 67 Sunbeam Minx Return-path: From: BritshIron@aol.com Full-name: BritshIron Message-ID: <64.8001347.27339aee@aol.com> Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 23:37:02 EST Subject: London Cab To: rovernet@lyris.ccdata.com MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Windows AOL sub 125 Does anyone know if they made London cabs for the left hand market? I thought it might be interesting to get one, diesel and all. Roland 52 Austin Somerset 54 Rover P4 60 Rover P5 66 Rover P6 67 Sunbeam Minx From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 12 08:30:44 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 10:29:37 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#27 While fooling around with the exhaust manifold, I had to loosen one of the cylinder head bolts at one point. I have not had the head off, so I have no idea if it is torqued correctly. So, should I simply re-torque the one bolt I took off, or should I re-torqued all of them, and can I re-torque one or all without replacing the cylinder head gasket? And any tricks in the re-torquing, other than following the correct sequence? Beautiful day here in Carolina, so I'm going to try to make as much progress as possible. Later! Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 12 08:50:49 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 10:50:02 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#27-b Regarding torquing the cylinder head, my other concern is that I don't know if the cylinder head bolts have been over-torqued. So, if I re-torque them to regular specs, it might leak because the gasket has been flattened too much? Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 13 09:51:53 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 08:47:35 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: XKs Unlimited Knock-off Wrench One final comment on the knock-off wrench I was thinking about ordering. This is the wooden version with "wings" you either grip by hand or tap with a mallet. Anyway, before placing an order I checked something that should have been obvious, but hadn't occurred to me until another list member brought it to my attention. Do my knock-offs protrude far enough for the wings of one of these wrenches to clear the tires. The answer is no. In fact, my knock-offs are recessed slightly relative to the fattest part of the tires. This probably explains why I occasionally whack the rim or tire while tightening/untightening with a hammer. Or maybe I'm just getting old. There is another type of wrench that might work called an Eared Nut Wrench. From the crude illustration its single handle appears to be offset from the part that grips the knock-off, but I'll need to verify that first. Thanks for the help. Roland From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 13 18:22:24 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 20:19:22 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#27-c Well, I'm getting some mixed messages about re-torquing the cylinder head. The TR7 has nuts/studs on top, and bolts on the bottom. I decided to re-torque everything since I hadn't done it before, and I'm glad I did because there really did seem to be a difference in the torque for each one. After I was done, I was advised that I should torque them 'wet,' ie with lubrication to avoid false torque readings. So I did them all again, cleaning each nut and bolt and washer and coating everything with motor oil. Now I realize another supporter said to torque them dry, since wet torquing could lead to over-torquing. The manual seems to have no advice on this issue -- so thoughts from the rest of you? Meanwhile, to get one of the head bolts off, I had to take off the entire rigid air pump line connection that goes to each cylinder. I was sure something was going to be rusted on, but surprisingly the line came off with little resistance. I'm pretty sure the air pump doesn't work anymore, so what's the possibility of just taking off pump and line and plugging the holes? Finally, I'm ready to mate the engine with flywheel/clutch/transmission. To do this I'll have to take the engine off the engine stand, and I'm pondering how the heck to support it. I suspect I don't want to rest it on the oil pan -- too much weight on the gasket? But there isn't much other room to support it from underneath. And I don't want to simply hang it from the engine lift -- too scary a thought that it might come crashing down unexpectedly. So any thoughts? Rest it on the very front of the oil pan, and on the block in the back? Or maybe fashion a sling under the engine while it is hanging from the lift, just as a precaution in case the chain/lifting bolt breaks? As always, inquiring minds thank you for your interest and support! Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 14 05:53:35 2000 From: BROWNING_G_WILLIAM@Lilly.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000 07:47:25 -0500 Subject: classic car insurance Any suggestions on which classic car insurance company to use.....your advice would be appreciated thanks Bill B Charlotte '67 Healey BJ8 From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 14 06:12:36 2000 From: "Fred Thomas" To: , Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000 08:37:33 -0500 Subject: Re: classic car insurance Bill, I have Hagarty and for a few simple reasons, the most important of which is mileage, and personel use, they do not have a 2500 MPY restriction on driving or all of the small clauses on personel use such as no shopping or to & from work, they do discourage any dailey use. "FT" > Any suggestions on which classic car insurance company to use.....your > advice would be appreciated > > thanks > Bill B > Charlotte > '67 Healey BJ8 From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 14 08:00:40 2000 From: TATERRY@aol.com To: BROWNING_G_WILLIAM@lilly.com, british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000 09:58:30 EST Subject: Re: classic car insurance In a message dated 11/14/00 4:55:05 AM Pacific Standard Time, BROWNING_G_WILLIAM@Lilly.com writes: << Any suggestions on which classic car insurance company to use.....your advice would be appreciated >> Talk to State Farm about their limited use policies...I have all 6 of my cars with them and after a major wreck, they paid with a smile.... Terry From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 14 08:08:39 2000 From: type79@ix.netcom.com To: Fred Thomas Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000 10:07:05 -0500 Subject: Re: classic car insurance - LONG Fred, With all due respect, this classic car myth should be in the Urban Legends database. As a responsible insurance agent, nothing gets me more riled than this irresponsible advice to others to purchase a certain classic car because it provides coverage for limited transportation. This has been covered ad nauseum on these lists, but I will attempt to restate the facts concisely. 1) No classic car company (that I am aware of ) offers insurance protection for any type of occasional use for transportation purposes, i.e. shopping, going to dinner, to the golf course, etc. 2) Do you have a classic car policy? If so, read it! It's a written contract to which you are a party and it is that contract which "speaks" after a loss occurs. 3) Purchase such insurance through a professional that can advise you on precisely what benefits and coverage that contract provides and how it relates to your other insurance coverage contained in your standard auto policy and umbrella liability. If you have a disdain for insurance agents, and are coordinating this coverage yourself, be certain of how policies and coverages interact according to the laws of your particular state or consult your attorney. 4) Be honest and truthful on the application and any claim reports. Misrepresentation on an application can and will void coverage. In the case of loss reports, you can't fool the company. Claims adjusters have already heard every creative and clever story you think will trigger coverage. Again, read your policy and the disclosure statements. 5) If you still think that what a company person told you or tells you on the phone is contrary to what I state here, ask them a) to direct you to that portion of the policy contract that states what they are telling you, and b) if you do not completely understand, ask to speak with someone more experienced to better explain the language. I have called and corresponded with every single one of the commonly known classic insurers, including Hagerty (whom we represent and consider one of the better classic insurers) and I have yet to find ONE that provides ANY coverage for occasional use of the insured vehicle for shopping, etc. Hagerty was the insurer that verbally stated to me that they would allow occasional use of the vehicle to drive to work. When I further queried the underwriter on his definition of "occasional", he responded "once a year would be considered occasional; once a month would not". As I said, we write classic policies through Hagerty but we do not advise clients in the manner you describe. If we did, there is a simple answer to the coverage trigger after a loss occurs, it's called E&O, Errors & Omissions Coverage. I'm sorry but there's no free-lunch. Classic Car insurance does not provide coverage for the all of the uses that you describe. Sorry for the strong tone of this email, but one of these days, somebody is going to have a serious accident while using their vehicle based on this erroneous advice, there is going to be no coverage, and they are going to be left in a situation where their assets are at risk. Insurance is becoming a commodity in this country and it is unfortunate. Jay Fishbein Independent Insurance Agent Wallingford, CT Fred Thomas wrote: > Bill, I have Hagarty and for a few simple reasons, the most important of > which is mileage, and personel use, they do not have a 2500 MPY restriction > on driving or all of the small clauses on personel use such as no shopping > or to & from work, they do discourage any dailey use. "FT" > > > Any suggestions on which classic car insurance company to use.....your > > advice would be appreciated > > > > thanks > > Bill B > > Charlotte > > '67 Healey BJ8 From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 14 09:30:49 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: Eganb@aol.com Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000 08:28:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#27-c You can torque dry or lubricated, but the torquing specs are different. If the manual is unclear, check a source that gives dry and lubricated torquing specs for the bolt size and grade. Yes, you can over-torque if you lubricate and torque to the dry spec. BTW, a good reference source on this subject is Carroll Smith's NUTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS AND PLUMBING HANDBOOK. Smith's writing style can be a bit overbearing at times, but he knows his stuff. Roland > > Well, I'm getting some mixed messages about re-torquing the cylinder head. > The TR7 has nuts/studs on top, and bolts on the bottom. I decided to > re-torque everything since I hadn't done it before, and I'm glad I did > because there really did seem to be a difference in the torque for each one. > > After I was done, I was advised that I should torque them 'wet,' ie with > lubrication to avoid false torque readings. So I did them all again, > cleaning each nut and bolt and washer and coating everything with motor oil. > > Now I realize another supporter said to torque them dry, since wet torquing > could lead to over-torquing. > > The manual seems to have no advice on this issue -- so thoughts from the rest > of you? > > Meanwhile, to get one of the head bolts off, I had to take off the entire > rigid air pump line connection that goes to each cylinder. I was sure > something was going to be rusted on, but surprisingly the line came off with > little resistance. I'm pretty sure the air pump doesn't work anymore, so > what's the possibility of just taking off pump and line and plugging the > holes? > > Finally, I'm ready to mate the engine with flywheel/clutch/transmission. To > do this I'll have to take the engine off the engine stand, and I'm pondering > how the heck to support it. I suspect I don't want to rest it on the oil pan > -- too much weight on the gasket? But there isn't much other room to support > it from underneath. > > And I don't want to simply hang it from the engine lift -- too scary a > thought that it might come crashing down unexpectedly. > > So any thoughts? Rest it on the very front of the oil pan, and on the block > in the back? Or maybe fashion a sling under the engine while it is hanging > from the lift, just as a precaution in case the chain/lifting bolt breaks? > > As always, inquiring minds thank you for your interest and support! > > > Bruce > 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible > Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 14 09:47:15 2000 From: "" To: type79@ix.netcom.com, vafred@erols.com Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000 16:46:28 GMT Subject: Re: classic car insurance - LONG >I'm sorry but there's no free-lunch. Classic Car insurance does not provide >coverage for the all of the uses that you describe. > >Sorry for the strong tone of this email, but one of these days, somebody is >going to have a serious accident while using their vehicle based on this >erroneous advice, there is going to be no coverage, and they are going to >be >left in a situation where their assets are at risk. > >Insurance is becoming a commodity in this country and it is unfortunate. > >Jay Fishbein >Independent Insurance Agent >Wallingford, CT > > > > Bill B > > > Charlotte > > > '67 Healey BJ8 Thanks for casting the light Jay... We should remember that Insurance companies aren't charities. They are "in it" to make money. Bill, I would recommend getting someone you trust, who is knowledgeable about your marque and is recognized as such, to give you a written estimate on your car's REPLACEMENT value. That means: "if the car is totalled, what would it cost to replace it?" Then insure it for that amount (I think it's called "stated value"). Take your "hit" for it being a sports car on the liability end of things and insure it for all 12 months (including the ones you store it, if you do so). You may have your heart's blood in the car, you may consider it a member of the family, more beloved than,say your rotten teanager... Insurance companies don't care... They will look for an out not to pay up... Don't give it to them. That's what I did with my TR4. Greg Petrolati Champaign, Illinois 1962 TR4 (CT4852L) That's not a leak... My car's just marking its territory... _________________________________________________________________________ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 14 09:55:00 2000 From: Mike Rambour To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000 08:56:12 -0800 Subject: Re: classic car insurance - LONG This insurance thing comes up quite often, has anyone just thought of making friends with their insurance agent ? I don't have "classic" insurance on my cars, I just have regular everyday insurance, I can drive them as often as I want for whatever reason I want. I can't afford it all the time though, when I spoke with my agent about it, he told me to just call him when I want to insure the cars. For the last 8 years, when I want to drive one of them I just call and say "insure x car please" and he does, when I am done I tell him to "remove the insurance on x car please". He even told me I could leave a message on his phone answering machine if I wanted to and that would be good enough (although I have never tested that one and I always speak to someone before driving, just in case they loose the voice message on the one day I get in a wreck). His only request was that if I think I will drive the car again during the week is to leave the car insured the whole week, he said he would not like to turn on/off the coverage more than once a week. Depending on the weather I usually leave the car insured for a month or so and then swap to a different car but I have been known to only insure it for a day(the billing is always fun). I have also been known to call on my cell phone while driving down the driveway. For a year and half when I worked a 4-day schedule, the car was automatically only insured on Fri-Sat-Sun and I called a few times for weekly coverage. If it is a weekend or middle of the night, I call the 800 number. No rules, only a little hassle. It sounds like a big hassle but it really is not since I rarely just get in and go. my cars regularly sit unused for weeks at a time. I wish life would give me the luxury of driving my LBCs all the time but work keeps getting in the way. mike (Allstate Ins. if that matters) ~~~~~ I'd rather be sailing and ~~~ .oooO Oooo. ~~~~~~~~~~~ Mike Rambour ( ) ( ) Bug Writer er...Programmer \ ) ( / mikey@b2systems.com \_) (_/ ********************************************************************** If you want to learn more about the ULTIMATE BRITISH sports car, then take a look at http://www.singercars.com/ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 14 16:01:12 2000 From: "Jim & Ann Brown" To: , Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000 17:00:43 -0600 Subject: Re: classic car insurance - lengthy Bill B asks, ---------- > Any suggestions on which classic car insurance company to use.....your > advice would be appreciated > > thanks > Bill B > Charlotte > '67 Healey BJ8 ---------- Bill, While this question has come up before, it once again deserves a reliable answer, as it is important and it is also clear that there are still urban myths out there stated as being gospel. I have read the responses to your question to date, and I might offer the following, a. An excellent starting point is to listen to Jay Fishbein, one of your correspondents to date. While it is easy to view him as the "enemy," due to his profession, he is, quite to the contrary, one of your best friends when this issue comes up. My comments below supplement his comments, all of which are quite valid. For the record, I have never had the pleasure of meeting Jay. and b. Be very careful when taking advice from others just because they may have been around in this hobby for a while. For example, with all respect, one of your correspondents has just rather shockingly, while innocently, misdescribed "stated value" coverage in more than one respect. You need to consult with an impartial expert who has NO financial ax to grind. You need to learn the difference, for example, between "replacement value" and "pre-accident fair market value," and which of those is insurable in your particular state. Insurance is not a lottery. (I am assuming you are in the USA. This is not necessarily true in some countries.) It is my opinion that no matter how highly you regard your insurance broker you should not consider him to be impartial. I will stress Jay's point that your policy is what it says in writing, not what your broker says it is. If he misleads you you may have recourse, at great expense and hassle, from the broker, but not very likely from the insurance company. You need to know the difference between "stated value" and "agreed value" coverage. You need to learn who gets what under each. It is quite arguable, for example, that as compared to the "standard" auto insurance coverage, in many if not most cases stated value coverage protects only your insurance company. Insurance is a product you purchase like any other, and it is distressing how many classic car types know not what it is they are purchasing when they mail their premiums in to certain specialized carriers. I would submit that your very question begs the question. You ask which classic car insurance company you should use, not whether you should use a classic car insurance company. The latter question is the first question you should ask. Ask yourself why you have even asked the question. Usually this question is asked for one of two reasons --- (a) you are unable to put the particular car on your regular policy, for whatever reason, or (b) you hope to save money by going to a specialist company. I trust that it is a truism that one gets, in general, what one pays for. I realize that I have suggested more questions than I have answered, but I truly distrust this medium for getting such advice -- it is just too likely that the advice you will get is untrustworthy. The advice you get from neutral experts after going to the trouble to find them, and perhaps even pay them, will have a much more lasting impact. For the record, I am not in the insurance business. I am, however, regrettably experienced in suffering the total loss of a magnificent, possibly unique, classic motor car in a road accident. I paid a substantial sum for my education on this, and I will assure you that it sank in. :-) All the best, Jim Brown Bentley buff Houston From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 14 17:47:21 2000 From: paul a zielinski To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000 19:40:45 -0500 Subject: TR7/Taps/Hubel Space Telescope/No Brit Car Content Bruce and Guys, Bruce: Congradulations on your TR7 engine work! Taps: Remember when the Hubel(sp?) Space Telescope was first launched and it couldn't focus well? A NASA guy gave a talk at my company. It seems that when the contractor read the blueprints and tapped the holes for the mirror mounts, they used the wrong taps/bolts. A TINY tolerance error resulted in the major problem. Sorry for not recalling the exact details. Cheers, Paul http://home.sprintmail.com/~paulzielinski S2 Europa-Gordini FAX 718-887-1398 From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 07:26:26 2000 From: tjhiggin@chris.iss.ingr.com (T.J. Higgins) To: british-cars@autox.team.net (SOL), nabms@egroups.com (NABMS) Date: Wed, 15 Nov 00 8:23:52 CST Subject: Spitfire for sale in Bulgaria This was forwarded to me. You can see the pictures at http://home.hiwaay.net/~tjhiggin/spit1.jpg and spit2.jpg -- TJH Vesselin Mihailov writes: > Dear Sirs, > My name is Vesselin Mihailov and I live in Bulgaria.I'm owner of = > retro > car, model Triumph Spitfire-1967-cabrio.The car is exellent > condition.New soft top,new lether saloon,new brakes sistem and > etc.Unfurtanetely economic conditions in Bulgaria aren't very good.In > spite of my feelings abouth this car,it is very difficult to me to care > of it.My big request is to hellp me in selling of this car, or to > exchange it for offroad,pick up or other car for my everyday > driving.Unfortunatelity to drive a retro car in Bulgaria is a = > luxury.The > price is 4000 USD.I hope that my request will be satisfied.I send you > photos JPG format. > Best regards, > Vesselin Mihailov > lamed_found@modus.bitex.com > Sofia > Bulgaria From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 08:42:58 2000 From: Paul Garside To: "'british-cars@autox.team.net'" Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 15:17:15 -0000 Subject: classic car insurance Jay Fishbein states: >1) No classic car company (that I am aware of ) offers insurance >protection for >any type of occasional use for transportation purposes, i.e. >shopping, going to >dinner, to the golf course, etc. I think you must be talking about the USA, Jay, because classic car insurance in the UK almost always covers regular use. The car has to be over 15 years old, you have to supply photos to get guaranteed value, and you state the mileage you want. Once you have done this you can use the car just like any other car. They figure if you own a Morris Minor, or even an E-type, you are less of a risk than the VTEC brigade. Keeps classic cars on the roads as daily drivers, which must be a good thing. Paul From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 08:51:10 2000 From: type79@ix.netcom.com To: Paul Garside Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 10:52:18 -0500 Subject: Re: classic car insurance Paul, You are correct. I was referring to insurance in the United States. I am aware of the programs available in England. If similar programs were available here, it would be a great help to many owners. jay Paul Garside wrote: > Jay Fishbein states: > > I think you must be talking about the USA, Jay, because classic car > insurance in the UK almost always covers regular use. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 08:55:13 2000 From: Paul Garside To: "'british-cars@autox.team.net'" Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 15:54:32 -0000 Subject: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE To the citizens of the United States of America, In the light of your failure to elect a President of the USA and thus to govern yourselves, we hereby give notice of the revocation of your independence, effective today. Her Sovereign Majesty Queen Elizabeth II will resume monarchial duties over all states, commonwealths and other territories. Except Utah, which she does not fancy. Your new prime minister (The rt. hon. Tony Blair, MP for the 97.85% of you who have until now been unaware that there is a world outside your borders) will appoint a minister for America without the need for further elections. Congress and the Senate will be disbanded. A questionnaire will be circulated next year to determine whether any of you noticed. To aid in the transition to a British Crown Dependency, the following rules are introduced with immediate effect: 1. You should look up "revocation" in the Oxford English Dictionary. Then look up "aluminium". Check the pronunciation guide. You will be amazed at just how wrongly you have been pronouncing it. Generally, you should raise your vocabulary to acceptable levels. Look up "vocabulary". Using the same twenty seven words interspersed with filler noises such as "like" and "you know" is an unacceptable and inefficient form of communication. Look up "interspersed". 2. There is no such thing as "US English". We will let Microsoft know on your behalf. 3. You should learn to distinguish the English and Australian accents. It really isn't that hard. 4. Hollywood will be required occasionally to cast English actors as the good guys. 5. You should relearn your original national anthem, "God Save The Queen", but only after fully carrying out task 1. We would not want you to get confused and give up half way through. 6. You should stop playing American "football". There is only one kind of football. What you refer to as American "football" is not a very good game. The 2.15% of you who are aware that there is a world outside your borders may have noticed that no one else plays "American" football. You will no longer be allowed to play it, and should instead play proper football. Initially, it would be best if you played with the girls. It is a difficult game. Those of you brave enough will, in time, be allowed to play rugby (which is similar to American "football", but does not involve stopping for a rest every twenty seconds or wearing full kevlar body armour like nancies). We are hoping to get together at least a US rugby sevens side by 2005. 7. You should declare war on Quebec and France, using nuclear weapons if they give you any merde. The 98.85% of you who were not aware that there is a world outside your borders should count yourselves lucky. The Russians have never been the bad guys. "Merde" is French for "shit". 8. July 4th is no longer a public holiday. November 8th will be a new national holiday, but only in England. It will be called "Indecisive Day". 9. All American cars are hereby banned. They are crap and it is for your own good. When we show you German cars, you will understand what we mean. 10. Please tell us who killed JFK. It's been driving us crazy. Thank you for your cooperation. ERII From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 09:13:10 2000 From: "Mark the Shark" To: "Paul Garside" , Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 11:12:17 -0500 Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE This is great. I'm going on the dole and waiting for my national healthcare card. And we finally get to celebrate boxing day! Mark Ascherl Raleigh, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Garside" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 10:54 AM Subject: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE > NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE > > To the citizens of the United States of America, > > In the light of your failure to elect a President of the USA and thus to > govern yourselves, we hereby give notice of the revocation of your > independence, effective today. > > Her Sovereign Majesty Queen Elizabeth II will resume monarchial duties over > all states, commonwealths and other territories. Except Utah, which she > does not fancy. > > Your new prime minister (The rt. hon. Tony Blair, MP for the 97.85% of you > who have until now been unaware that there is a world outside your borders) > will appoint a minister for America without the need for further elections. > Congress and the Senate will be disbanded. A questionnaire will be > circulated next year to determine whether any of you noticed. > > To aid in the transition to a British Crown Dependency, the following rules > are introduced with immediate effect: > > 1. You should look up "revocation" in the Oxford English Dictionary. Then > look up "aluminium". Check the pronunciation guide. You will be amazed at > just how wrongly you have been pronouncing it. Generally, you should raise > your vocabulary to acceptable levels. Look up "vocabulary". Using the same > twenty seven words interspersed with filler noises such as "like" and "you > know" is an unacceptable and inefficient form of communication. Look up > "interspersed". > > 2. There is no such thing as "US English". We will let Microsoft know on > your behalf. > > 3. You should learn to distinguish the English and Australian accents. It > really isn't that hard. > > 4. Hollywood will be required occasionally to cast English actors as the > good guys. > > 5. You should relearn your original national anthem, "God Save The Queen", > but only after fully carrying out task 1. We would not want you to get > confused and give up half way through. > > 6. You should stop playing American "football". There is only one kind of > football. What you refer to as American "football" is not a very good game. > The 2.15% of you who are aware that there is a world outside your borders > may have noticed that no one else plays "American" football. You will no > longer be allowed to play it, and should instead play proper football. > Initially, it would be best if you played with the girls. It is a difficult > game. Those of you brave enough will, in time, be allowed to play rugby > (which is similar to American "football", but does not involve stopping for > a rest every twenty seconds or wearing full kevlar body armour like > nancies). We are hoping to get together at least a US rugby sevens side by > 2005. > > 7. You should declare war on Quebec and France, using nuclear weapons if > they give you any merde. The 98.85% of you who were not aware that there is > a world outside your borders should count yourselves lucky. The Russians > have never been the bad guys. "Merde" is French for "shit". > > 8. July 4th is no longer a public holiday. November 8th will be a new > national holiday, but only in England. It will be called "Indecisive Day". > > 9. All American cars are hereby banned. They are crap and it is for your > own good. When we show you German cars, you will understand what we mean. > > 10. Please tell us who killed JFK. It's been driving us crazy. > > Thank you for your cooperation. > ERII From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 09:29:34 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: Paul.Garside@seagatesoftware.com Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 08:28:54 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE What election? From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 09:39:39 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: Paul.Garside@seagatesoftware.com Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 08:38:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: classic car insurance No Paul, classic cars are meant to have $25,000 paint jobs (~GBP 17000), polished so they can't be viewed in sunlight with out wearing a pair of cool looking, made in the USA only, sunglasses, towed to all car events, and, of course, never marred with nasty old grease or oil. When will you Brits ever get this right, anyway??! Roland > > >1) No classic car company (that I am aware of ) offers insurance > >protection for > >any type of occasional use for transportation purposes, i.e. > >shopping, going to > >dinner, to the golf course, etc. > > I think you must be talking about the USA, Jay, because classic car > insurance in the UK almost always covers regular use. > > The car has to be over 15 years old, you have to supply photos to get > guaranteed value, and you state the mileage you want. Once you have done > this you can use the car just like any other car. They figure if you own a > Morris Minor, or even an E-type, you are less of a risk than the VTEC > brigade. > > Keeps classic cars on the roads as daily drivers, which must be a good > thing. > > Paul From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 09:52:41 2000 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 08:49:39 -0800 Subject: Torquing Heads I had a neat little pamphlet from Felpro about their head gaskets. The pamphlet had pages and pages of charts showing the torquing methods for all sorts of cars. I read through some of them. It was amazing the different methods. Most did it in stages - like 15 lbs for all first, 25, 35 ... (those are just numbers thrown out there for example, each car seemed to have different steps). Others, with or without steps, went up to the final torque number, then backed down a partial turn, then back up. All sorts of combinations. So, I think the bottom line point is to simply do what the factory for your car recommended - ie hot, cold, dry, wet, steps, etc. - though I'm pretty sure my Alpine factory manuals only give the final setting and don't say anything about wet or dry. Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 10:13:08 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: type79@ix.netcom.com Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 09:12:34 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: classic car insurance As others have commented (I was going to write "like others", but guess that's not allowed?), I have always had standard coverage on the snake to avoid the "use" question. It just ain't (sorry Paul) worth hassling with the insurance company over a claim for a fender bender on the way to work or the grocery store. I think I may get a bit of a discount for low mileage use, but nothing different from what I could have gotten for a regular use car. Once I put the car back on the road again, hopefully soon, I may revisit the non liability part of the coverage, but I don't plan to go for limited use insurance. My car has no paint, and plenty of dirty old grease and oil, so I drive it. Roland > > Paul, > You are correct. I was referring to insurance in the United States. I am aware > of the programs available in England. If similar programs were available here, > it would be a great help to many owners. > > jay > > Paul Garside wrote: > > > Jay Fishbein states: > > > > I think you must be talking about the USA, Jay, because classic car > > insurance in the UK almost always covers regular use. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 10:41:27 2000 From: ARoman4047@aol.com To: Paul.Garside@seagatesoftware.com, british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 12:40:32 EST Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE Dear Sir or Madam (we've seen the current pics - tough call) I believe if you'll check your title (not that one, the ownership papers), you'll find that the property is now and has been owned by the Bush Dynasty of Texas and Florida. The original transaction took place under the leadership of Ms/Mr Thatcher (another tough call...). George Bush Sr. took ownership of the property - henceforth referred to as UK - in a cidicil attached to a Harkin contract. This property was deeded to George D.W.I. Bush (despite those SEC investigations), as part of a pre-inheritance settlement to avoid death taxes. So, it is my decision that your "notice of revocation of independance" has no legal claim. I will, however, accept written exceptions, but only if they are in my possession within eighteen hours. Yours in honesty, integrity, and party loyalty. Katherine Harris, Tallahassee Fla. (but I'll be moving soon) From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 10:49:08 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 09:48:27 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Torquing Heads I used after market ARP head, main bearing and connecting rod bolts on my motor. They came not only with very explicit torquing instruction, but also included a special lubricant. If I recall, the instructions also included torquing specs for use with engine oil, which were a bit lower than for the supplied lubricant. BTW, I believe that Felpro claims that no bolt re-torquing after X number of initial miles is required if you use their head gaskets. I've have heard from some pretty knowledgeable people that this is bunk. Roland > > I had a neat little pamphlet from Felpro about their head gaskets. The > pamphlet had pages and pages of charts showing the torquing methods for all > sorts of cars. I read through some of them. It was amazing the different > methods. Most did it in stages - like 15 lbs for all first, 25, 35 ... > (those are just numbers thrown out there for example, each car seemed to > have different steps). Others, with or without steps, went up to the final > torque number, then backed down a partial turn, then back up. All sorts of > combinations. So, I think the bottom line point is to simply do what the > factory for your car recommended - ie hot, cold, dry, wet, steps, etc. - > though I'm pretty sure my Alpine factory manuals only give the final > setting and don't say anything about wet or dry. > > Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 11:05:43 2000 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: cobra@scs.agilent.com Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 10:00:59 -0800 Subject: Re: Torquing Heads >BTW, I believe that Felpro claims that no bolt re-torquing >after X number of initial miles is required if you use their >head gaskets. I've have heard from some pretty knowledgeable >people that this is bunk. Maybe they haven't read the full text. The Felpro instructions were quite clear that you had to use their fancy head gasket "form a gasket" too. Thus, they are basically bonding the block to the gasket and then the gasket to the head. I can see how this glue seal would have less of a need of retorquing once enough mileage has settled everything down. FWIW, I don't have a Felpro head gasket or sealant. I did however spray the head gasket with silver paint before assembly. Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 11:10:16 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 10:09:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Torquing Heads The point that was made to me was not about sealing, but shrinkage. The compressed head gaskets/seal-whatever, compresses slightly over time, thus changing the torque on the bolts. Roland > > >BTW, I believe that Felpro claims that no bolt re-torquing > >after X number of initial miles is required if you use their > >head gaskets. I've have heard from some pretty knowledgeable > >people that this is bunk. > > Maybe they haven't read the full text. The Felpro instructions were quite > clear that you had to use their fancy head gasket "form a gasket" too. > Thus, they are basically bonding the block to the gasket and then the > gasket to the head. I can see how this glue seal would have less of a need > of retorquing once enough mileage has settled everything down. > > FWIW, I don't have a Felpro head gasket or sealant. I did however spray > the head gasket with silver paint before assembly. > > Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 11:12:16 2000 From: TJAZZED@aol.com To: Paul.Garside@seagatesoftware.com, british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 13:11:22 EST Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE OK I'm all for it. We can't seem to settle things for ourselves. = ) So..when is tea time anyway ?? From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 11:21:20 2000 From: "Kerr, Paul AAF:EX" To: "'Paul Garside'" , Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 10:20:23 -0800 Subject: RE: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE Beautiful. -----Original Message----- From: Paul Garside [mailto:Paul.Garside@seagatesoftware.com] Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 7:55 AM To: 'british-cars@autox.team.net' Subject: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE To the citizens of the United States of America, In the light of your failure to elect a President of the USA and thus to govern yourselves, we hereby give notice of the revocation of your independence, effective today. Her Sovereign Majesty Queen Elizabeth II will resume monarchial duties over all states, commonwealths and other territories. Except Utah, which she does not fancy. Your new prime minister (The rt. hon. Tony Blair, MP for the 97.85% of you who have until now been unaware that there is a world outside your borders) will appoint a minister for America without the need for further elections. Congress and the Senate will be disbanded. A questionnaire will be circulated next year to determine whether any of you noticed. To aid in the transition to a British Crown Dependency, the following rules are introduced with immediate effect: 1. You should look up "revocation" in the Oxford English Dictionary. Then look up "aluminium". Check the pronunciation guide. You will be amazed at just how wrongly you have been pronouncing it. Generally, you should raise your vocabulary to acceptable levels. Look up "vocabulary". Using the same twenty seven words interspersed with filler noises such as "like" and "you know" is an unacceptable and inefficient form of communication. Look up "interspersed". 2. There is no such thing as "US English". We will let Microsoft know on your behalf. 3. You should learn to distinguish the English and Australian accents. It really isn't that hard. 4. Hollywood will be required occasionally to cast English actors as the good guys. 5. You should relearn your original national anthem, "God Save The Queen", but only after fully carrying out task 1. We would not want you to get confused and give up half way through. 6. You should stop playing American "football". There is only one kind of football. What you refer to as American "football" is not a very good game. The 2.15% of you who are aware that there is a world outside your borders may have noticed that no one else plays "American" football. You will no longer be allowed to play it, and should instead play proper football. Initially, it would be best if you played with the girls. It is a difficult game. Those of you brave enough will, in time, be allowed to play rugby (which is similar to American "football", but does not involve stopping for a rest every twenty seconds or wearing full kevlar body armour like nancies). We are hoping to get together at least a US rugby sevens side by 2005. 7. You should declare war on Quebec and France, using nuclear weapons if they give you any merde. The 98.85% of you who were not aware that there is a world outside your borders should count yourselves lucky. The Russians have never been the bad guys. "Merde" is French for "shit". 8. July 4th is no longer a public holiday. November 8th will be a new national holiday, but only in England. It will be called "Indecisive Day". 9. All American cars are hereby banned. They are crap and it is for your own good. When we show you German cars, you will understand what we mean. 10. Please tell us who killed JFK. It's been driving us crazy. Thank you for your cooperation. ERII From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 11:36:33 2000 From: Henley To: Paul Garside Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 13:35:46 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE I find this so hilarious!!!! We could have whipped those yankees if you had cooperated on the cotten embargo. CHEERS!! I am Marvin Eugene Henley Confederate States of America On Wed, 15 Nov 2000, Paul Garside wrote: > NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE > > To the citizens of the United States of America, > > In the light of your failure to elect a President of the USA and thus to > govern yourselves, we hereby give notice of the revocation of your > independence, effective today. > > Her Sovereign Majesty Queen Elizabeth II will resume monarchial duties over > all states, commonwealths and other territories. Except Utah, which she > does not fancy. > > Your new prime minister (The rt. hon. Tony Blair, MP for the 97.85% of you > who have until now been unaware that there is a world outside your borders) > will appoint a minister for America without the need for further elections. > Congress and the Senate will be disbanded. A questionnaire will be > circulated next year to determine whether any of you noticed. > > To aid in the transition to a British Crown Dependency, the following rules > are introduced with immediate effect: > > 1. You should look up "revocation" in the Oxford English Dictionary. Then > look up "aluminium". Check the pronunciation guide. You will be amazed at > just how wrongly you have been pronouncing it. Generally, you should raise > your vocabulary to acceptable levels. Look up "vocabulary". Using the same > twenty seven words interspersed with filler noises such as "like" and "you > know" is an unacceptable and inefficient form of communication. Look up > "interspersed". > > 2. There is no such thing as "US English". We will let Microsoft know on > your behalf. > > 3. You should learn to distinguish the English and Australian accents. It > really isn't that hard. > > 4. Hollywood will be required occasionally to cast English actors as the > good guys. > > 5. You should relearn your original national anthem, "God Save The Queen", > but only after fully carrying out task 1. We would not want you to get > confused and give up half way through. > > 6. You should stop playing American "football". There is only one kind of > football. What you refer to as American "football" is not a very good game. > The 2.15% of you who are aware that there is a world outside your borders > may have noticed that no one else plays "American" football. You will no > longer be allowed to play it, and should instead play proper football. > Initially, it would be best if you played with the girls. It is a difficult > game. Those of you brave enough will, in time, be allowed to play rugby > (which is similar to American "football", but does not involve stopping for > a rest every twenty seconds or wearing full kevlar body armour like > nancies). We are hoping to get together at least a US rugby sevens side by > 2005. > > 7. You should declare war on Quebec and France, using nuclear weapons if > they give you any merde. The 98.85% of you who were not aware that there is > a world outside your borders should count yourselves lucky. The Russians > have never been the bad guys. "Merde" is French for "shit". > > 8. July 4th is no longer a public holiday. November 8th will be a new > national holiday, but only in England. It will be called "Indecisive Day". > > 9. All American cars are hereby banned. They are crap and it is for your > own good. When we show you German cars, you will understand what we mean. > > 10. Please tell us who killed JFK. It's been driving us crazy. > > Thank you for your cooperation. > ERII From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 11:43:13 2000 From: Mark J Bradakis To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 11:19:04 -0700 Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE So..when is tea time anyway ?? Me, I've got nasty habits, and take my tea at three. -- It doesn't matter who you are, or what you've done, or think you can do. There's a confrontation with destiny awaiting you. Somewhere, there is a chile you cannot eat. -- Daniel Pinkwater, "A Hot Time in Nairobi" From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 12:43:02 2000 From: "Glen Wilson" To: Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 14:40:01 -0500 Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE To us Yanks, it's a novelty to see our elected representatives yelling at each other at the tops of their lungs and making absurd arguments that no judge would waste time listening to. In the USA, we get to watch what goes on in Parliament on CSPAN, so we know that's the normal mode of political discourse in the UK. You guys are WAY out in front when it comes to posturing before the camera. We must seem like amateurs by comparison, so I'm not surprised to hear that you're all rolling on the floors over there. Pretty soon, it will end up in the U.S. Supreme Court and be decided once and for all. No bombs, no shootings, no hostages, no military intervention, no martial law, no curtailment of individual civil rights. After all, we have a Constitution that ultimately protects inmdividual rights and keeps things from getting too much out of line. Some major countries do not, and their entire system or any individual right can change with a single vote in Parliament. (Or at least that's what I've heard...) It may look messy, but it will sort itself out shortly, and we'll go on as usual, for better or worse. In the meantime, have no fear...we don't. ;-) Glen ----- Original Message ----- From: "Henley" To: "Paul Garside" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 1:35 PM Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE > I find this so hilarious!!!! > We could have whipped those yankees if you had cooperated on the cotten > embargo. CHEERS!! > I am Marvin Eugene Henley > Confederate States of America > > > On Wed, 15 Nov 2000, Paul Garside wrote: > > > NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE > > > > To the citizens of the United States of America, > > > > In the light of your failure to elect a President of the USA and thus to > > govern yourselves, we hereby give notice of the revocation of your > > independence, effective today. > > > > Her Sovereign Majesty Queen Elizabeth II will resume monarchial duties over > > all states, commonwealths and other territories. Except Utah, which she > > does not fancy. > > > > Your new prime minister (The rt. hon. Tony Blair, MP for the 97.85% of you > > who have until now been unaware that there is a world outside your borders) > > will appoint a minister for America without the need for further elections. > > Congress and the Senate will be disbanded. A questionnaire will be > > circulated next year to determine whether any of you noticed. > > > > To aid in the transition to a British Crown Dependency, the following rules > > are introduced with immediate effect: > > > > 1. You should look up "revocation" in the Oxford English Dictionary. Then > > look up "aluminium". Check the pronunciation guide. You will be amazed at > > just how wrongly you have been pronouncing it. Generally, you should raise > > your vocabulary to acceptable levels. Look up "vocabulary". Using the same > > twenty seven words interspersed with filler noises such as "like" and "you > > know" is an unacceptable and inefficient form of communication. Look up > > "interspersed". > > > > 2. There is no such thing as "US English". We will let Microsoft know on > > your behalf. > > > > 3. You should learn to distinguish the English and Australian accents. It > > really isn't that hard. > > > > 4. Hollywood will be required occasionally to cast English actors as the > > good guys. > > > > 5. You should relearn your original national anthem, "God Save The Queen", > > but only after fully carrying out task 1. We would not want you to get > > confused and give up half way through. > > > > 6. You should stop playing American "football". There is only one kind of > > football. What you refer to as American "football" is not a very good game. > > The 2.15% of you who are aware that there is a world outside your borders > > may have noticed that no one else plays "American" football. You will no > > longer be allowed to play it, and should instead play proper football. > > Initially, it would be best if you played with the girls. It is a difficult > > game. Those of you brave enough will, in time, be allowed to play rugby > > (which is similar to American "football", but does not involve stopping for > > a rest every twenty seconds or wearing full kevlar body armour like > > nancies). We are hoping to get together at least a US rugby sevens side by > > 2005. > > > > 7. You should declare war on Quebec and France, using nuclear weapons if > > they give you any merde. The 98.85% of you who were not aware that there is > > a world outside your borders should count yourselves lucky. The Russians > > have never been the bad guys. "Merde" is French for "shit". > > > > 8. July 4th is no longer a public holiday. November 8th will be a new > > national holiday, but only in England. It will be called "Indecisive Day". > > > > 9. All American cars are hereby banned. They are crap and it is for your > > own good. When we show you German cars, you will understand what we mean. > > > > 10. Please tell us who killed JFK. It's been driving us crazy. > > > > Thank you for your cooperation. > > ERII From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 14:03:49 2000 From: "John D'Agostino" To: Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 16:06:02 -0500 Subject: Torqueing Heads I don't think the absolute number is critical when torquing, just the evenness of all the bolts. Too many variables to keep track of, dry, wet, tight fitting, loose fitting, mashed threads, uncalibrated torque wrench, human error etc. You don't even need to retorque, when do you do it, hot, cold, lukewarm? Should the bolts/studs be replaced? Maybe someone has stretched them by over torquing 20 years ago. If there is sealant on the threads that has hardened, does retorquing disturb it? My Corvette motors with 11-1 compression were done with sealant on the threads (as recomended to seal the water out), a dry gasket, torque to mid range then forget about it. Same for the Daimlers. It's either going to seal or it isn't. If the block or heads are warped, well that's another problem, sealant is not the answer for that. Of course everyone has their own method, Jay uses silver paint on a head gasket, I don't put anything on. My father recommends grease, so that's what we used on a TR3 many years ago... it worked. Tighten till it breaks, then back off half a turn... J From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 15:41:31 2000 From: "Neil Sherry" To: , Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 22:38:31 -0000 Subject: Re: Torquing Heads With the mass-produced cars of 30 years ago the chances are that studs and nuts were used as delivered - so that would probably mean a light coating of oil. Or am I assuming too much? Neil ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 4:49 PM Subject: Torquing Heads > I had a neat little pamphlet from Felpro about their head gaskets. The > pamphlet had pages and pages of charts showing the torquing methods for all > sorts of cars. I read through some of them. It was amazing the different > methods. Most did it in stages - like 15 lbs for all first, 25, 35 ... > (those are just numbers thrown out there for example, each car seemed to > have different steps). Others, with or without steps, went up to the final > torque number, then backed down a partial turn, then back up. All sorts of > combinations. So, I think the bottom line point is to simply do what the > factory for your car recommended - ie hot, cold, dry, wet, steps, etc. - > though I'm pretty sure my Alpine factory manuals only give the final > setting and don't say anything about wet or dry. > > Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 15:41:36 2000 From: "Neil Sherry" To: , "Paul Garside" Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 22:38:15 -0000 Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE What is more important than the time is the way tea is made. And that involves boiling water and a teapot! As for the election, the big disadvantage of a close election is that you get more potential for sore losers. So whichever way it goes there will be around 50% of the US population that will disappointed. Neil ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 6:11 PM Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE > OK I'm all for it. We can't seem to settle things for ourselves. = ) > So..when is tea time anyway ?? From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 15:53:12 2000 From: "Fred Thomas" To: "Neil Sherry" , Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 18:18:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Torquing Heads Using of grease or oil on any nuts, bolts, especially wheels and head studs, will give a false torque value, and also makes them subject to loosening and then blown head gaskets or lost wheels, and this is a quote from Henry Ford, I think he was rather knowledgeable. "FT" > With the mass-produced cars of 30 years ago the chances are that studs and > nuts were used as delivered - so that would probably mean a light coating of > oil. Or am I assuming too much? From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 17:36:22 2000 From: "J.E.A.Rich" To: Neil Sherry , , Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 17:34:08 -0700 Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE But even boiling water doesn't work properly when water boils at 200:F in the mountains. Cheers, "Bob". > From: "Neil Sherry" > Reply-To: "Neil Sherry" > Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 22:38:15 -0000 > To: , "Paul Garside", > > Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE > > What is more important than the time is the way tea is made. And that > involves boiling water and a teapot! > > As for the election, the big disadvantage of a close election is that you > get more potential for sore losers. So whichever way it goes there will be > around 50% of the US population that will disappointed. > > Neil > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: ; > Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 6:11 PM > Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE > > >> OK I'm all for it. We can't seem to settle things for ourselves. = ) >> So..when is tea time anyway ?? From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 20:19:35 2000 From: BritshIron@aol.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 22:18:37 EST Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE Does this mean we finally get the MGF and the Rover 75??? Roland 52 Austin Somerset 54 Rover P4 60 Rover P5 66 Rover P6 67 Sunbeam Minx From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 20:37:03 2000 From: BritshIron@aol.com To: jear@rmi.net, british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 22:36:04 EST Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE In a message dated 11/15/00 4:37:58 PM Pacific Standard Time, jear@rmi.net writes: << But even boiling water doesn't work properly when water boils at 200:F in the mountains. >> I guess you should be using 100C instead, now that we've been reunited with the Crown.....;-) Roland 52 Austin Somerset 54 Rover P4 60 Rover P5 66 Rover P6 67 Sunbeam Minx From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 15 21:07:05 2000 From: paul a zielinski To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 22:54:49 -0500 Subject: More on Car Insurance Guys, I switched to Condon & Skelley about 10 years ago. Just picked them out of Hemmings. And my real insurance agency handles the details for me. It costs me $120 in New York State. I valued my car at $8000. You can put any value that you want on it, you pay per $1000 valuation. DRIVING: They say 2500 miles per year for club/show purposes. But they also ask you to specify TESTING miles. So when I go to breakfast on the weekend with my Lotus car buddies (or ANY car buddies), that is A CLUB EVENT. We even publish our breakfast schedule on the Net and in The Lotus Ltd. REMARQUE (National Club). If I was going to any car event (drive night, etc.) that is a CLUB RELATED EVENT. And I TEST my car early Sat. and Sun. morning to get baggles and the paper. I usually test it REAL HARD, just to make sure that everything is working OK. I put betweeen 1-2K miles/year on the clock. No kidding.(Odomometers do break, but mine hasn't. I keep good care of my Lotus.) HAGGARTY INSURANCE: I talked to the local agent at the Victor, New York Car Show (run by The Western New York MG Club.) This is a HUGE SHOW. The Haggarty guy did maintain that your 2500 miles ARE NOT LIMITED to show/car stuff. They didn't care how you used your 2500 miles. If I was starting off and looking for a company, I wouldn't question going with Haggarty. I just don't want the hassle of a change. I say just get a company (that has no obvious black marks) and drive your car. Antique/special interest car insurance is a good deal for these companies. They know that we are extremely careful with our treasures. Our claims are VERY LOW. (Sorry about the few of us who have lost cars to stupid accidents beyond our control. I lost my first car, a MGA, in 1966). These companies know that we don't enjoy driving on crazy busy highways and cities with all the morons in BIG vehicles. So drive your car. Quick and smooth. In the country. Or in the city in the early AM. And don't worry about the accident that MIGHT happen. If you are scared, then don't drive the car. Cheers, Paul http://home.sprintmail.com/~paulzielinski S2 Europa-Gordini FAX 718-887-1398 From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 16 02:09:46 2000 From: Paul Garside To: "'Neil Sherry'" , TJAZZED@aol.com, Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 09:08:02 -0000 Subject: RE: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE No, only 25 % will be disappointed: Only 51% voted! Paul -----Original Message----- From: Neil Sherry [mailto:sherry@invention-machine.co.uk] Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 10:38 PM To: TJAZZED@aol.com; Paul Garside; british-cars@autox.team.net Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE What is more important than the time is the way tea is made. And that involves boiling water and a teapot! As for the election, the big disadvantage of a close election is that you get more potential for sore losers. So whichever way it goes there will be around 50% of the US population that will disappointed. Neil ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 6:11 PM Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE > OK I'm all for it. We can't seem to settle things for ourselves. = ) > So..when is tea time anyway ?? From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 16 03:36:20 2000 From: "Neil Sherry" To: , Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 22:38:31 -0000 Subject: Re: Torquing Heads With the mass-produced cars of 30 years ago the chances are that studs and nuts were used as delivered - so that would probably mean a light coating of oil. Or am I assuming too much? Neil ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 4:49 PM Subject: Torquing Heads > I had a neat little pamphlet from Felpro about their head gaskets. The > pamphlet had pages and pages of charts showing the torquing methods for all > sorts of cars. I read through some of them. It was amazing the different > methods. Most did it in stages - like 15 lbs for all first, 25, 35 ... > (those are just numbers thrown out there for example, each car seemed to > have different steps). Others, with or without steps, went up to the final > torque number, then backed down a partial turn, then back up. All sorts of > combinations. So, I think the bottom line point is to simply do what the > factory for your car recommended - ie hot, cold, dry, wet, steps, etc. - > though I'm pretty sure my Alpine factory manuals only give the final > setting and don't say anything about wet or dry. > > Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 16 03:36:19 2000 From: "Neil Sherry" To: , "Paul Garside" Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 22:38:15 -0000 Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE What is more important than the time is the way tea is made. And that involves boiling water and a teapot! As for the election, the big disadvantage of a close election is that you get more potential for sore losers. So whichever way it goes there will be around 50% of the US population that will disappointed. Neil ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2000 6:11 PM Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE > OK I'm all for it. We can't seem to settle things for ourselves. = ) > So..when is tea time anyway ?? From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 16 04:51:56 2000 From: "Neil Sherry" To: , Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 11:47:40 -0000 Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE Only when you start driving on the correct side of the road :) Neil ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2000 3:18 AM Subject: Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE > Does this mean we finally get the MGF and the Rover 75??? > > Roland > 52 Austin Somerset > 54 Rover P4 > 60 Rover P5 > 66 Rover P6 > 67 Sunbeam Minx From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 16 21:59:02 2000 From: BritshIron@aol.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net, rovernet@lyris.ccdata.com Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 23:56:31 EST Subject: Worth The Price? It's come to my conclusion, that any certain vehicle has to be important to the owner to put so much into it. I am speaking of trying to restore a vehicle, from purchase to rolling beauty. I am in the midst of having the body work and upholstery done on the P5 and it's looking pretty good. Of course I'm going to own the most expensive $3000 Rover, as Rover prices have not really commanded Ferrari prices. My question is this: is it worth it? I know a friend of mine that has a $10,000 MGB and he knows he can only get between 6-8K. Saloons get even less. I know this question has weighed heavily on many minds. I can do the mechanical work, but the more expensive labor work I have to source out. There's also the wood work and the chrome that still needs doing. Is it all without regret? Or should we all just buy cheap import cars and park the old ones out back. Guess I'm wondering if everyone is happy they did it instead of just buying a new car. Roland 52 Austin Somerset 54 Rover P4 60 Rover P5 66 Rover P6 67 Sunbeam Minx From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 16 22:42:56 2000 From: "Glen Wilson" To: , , Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 00:40:51 -0500 Subject: Re: Worth The Price? Roland, I think it's worth it, but it will always depend on how much "disposable" income you have and whether or not you go into it with your eyes open. Fortunately, you and I deal with cars that don't cost that much for the initial purchase, and we are not talking tens of thousands of dollars of outlay even for a really nice finished product. If you put all of that money in with unrealistic expectations about getting it back, your just looking for heartache. For cars that will be worth less than $10,000 when you're done, though, it's hard to justify $3000 carpets, $4,000 leather, or a $9,000 paint job, and I have seen all of them done on cars that will never bring that much at sale. In some cases, excellent vinyl might be better than leather, and it probably won't hurt the resale all that much. From what I've heard, you could probably refinish the wood yourself. Chrome is an expensive pain in the neck if you can't find excellent used stuff. The problem with doing a $10,000 MGB is that there are going to be 25 MGBs at every show that look as good as yours up close and 100 that look just as good from 15 feet away. At least with a Rover, you end up with something rare, interesting and classy when you're done. Glen ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2000 11:56 PM Subject: Worth The Price? > It's come to my conclusion, that any certain vehicle has to be important to > the owner to put so much into it. I am speaking of trying to restore a > vehicle, from purchase to rolling beauty. I am in the midst of having the > body work and upholstery done on the P5 and it's looking pretty good. Of > course I'm going to own the most expensive $3000 Rover, as Rover prices have > not really commanded Ferrari prices. My question is this: is it worth it? I > know a friend of mine that has a $10,000 MGB and he knows he can only get > between 6-8K. Saloons get even less. I know this question has weighed heavily > on many minds. I can do the mechanical work, but the more expensive labor > work I have to source out. There's also the wood work and the chrome that > still needs doing. Is it all without regret? Or should we all just buy cheap > import cars and park the old ones out back. Guess I'm wondering if everyone > is happy they did it instead of just buying a new car. > > Roland > 52 Austin Somerset > 54 Rover P4 > 60 Rover P5 > 66 Rover P6 > 67 Sunbeam Minx From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 02:44:28 2000 From: Paul Garside To: "'british-cars@autox.team.net'" , Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 01:43:40 -0800 Subject: RE: Is it worth it? Roland, This is a question as old as time, but still worth talking about. I have done all sorts of restos, from buying a good Aston Martin and Fiat 124 spider, improving them a bit then selling them on, to buying complete wrecks of XK140 and (currently) Lancia Montecarlo and getting them back on the road. I usually have sold them for more than I paid out to buy, but have spent more in total than I got for them. I carry on doing it because I love the work itself, even more than driving them. The short answer is, financially, no. If you buy at the bottom of a rising market, and do very little, then you _can_ make some money on an old car. But generally, you will seldom get your money back. If you do want to cover your costs, you have to choose the right car in not too bad a condition very cheaply. Someone else's failed project is sometimes a good idea. A project is usually cheaper than the parts it contains, and there may be some expensive replacement parts included. My Monte, for example, cost me GBP 500, but included mag wheels, new tyres, wings, doors and other bits alone worth more than GBP 2000. To have needed to replace these items would have made the project uneconomical. As it is, I expect to spend about GBP 3000 on it, which I might just get back. But this isn't counting my labour, of course. I do it because that's what I like doing. How to make money on a project: Buy a rare two-seater with racing history very cheaply. Two-seaters are cheaper to restore because they are smaller and have less interior trim. Racers don't have expensive-to-restore chrome and other trim parts. So Rovers or Cadillacs cost more to restore than Ferrari GTOs. Sell on a rising market. If your classic is a daily driver, you can compare it favourably with the alternative. If I run a scruffy MGB, it will not depreciate. If I get it sorted mechanically and electrically, and rechrome the bumpers, it will add a bit of value, and it can be more reliable than an old econobox which which has reached the end of its design life. When I rebuild the econobox's engine or replace the bumpers, it will most likely cost me more in parts and will not add any value to the car. Looked at this way, it can make some sense economically to have a classic. What the hell, it's a hobby, and hobbies cost! Paul. From: BritshIron@aol.com Subject: Worth The Price? It's come to my conclusion, that any certain vehicle has to be important to the owner to put so much into it. I am speaking of trying to restore a vehicle, from purchase to rolling beauty. I am in the midst of having the body work and upholstery done on the P5 and it's looking pretty good. Of course I'm going to own the most expensive $3000 Rover, as Rover prices have not really commanded Ferrari prices. My question is this: is it worth it? I know a friend of mine that has a $10,000 MGB and he knows he can only get between 6-8K. Saloons get even less. I know this question has weighed heavily on many minds. I can do the mechanical work, but the more expensive labor work I have to source out. There's also the wood work and the chrome that still needs doing. Is it all without regret? Or should we all just buy cheap import cars and park the old ones out back. Guess I'm wondering if everyone is happy they did it instead of just buying a new car. Roland 52 Austin Somerset 54 Rover P4 60 Rover P5 66 Rover P6 67 Sunbeam Minx From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 04:55:55 2000 From: "Neil Sherry" To: "Paul Garside" , Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 10:54:07 -0000 Subject: Re: Is it worth it? Absolutely. This is (for most of us) a hobby. Do people expect a return out of gardening, smoking, playing golf or sailing? If you're lucky the garden might enhance the value of your house, you might make business contacts on the golf course or travel 'for free' by sailing, but that's not the goal. The likelihood is that the gardening will be hours of back breaking work just to keep it the same, the golf will be something to get nagged about at home and the boat will be an expensive indulgence (#1500 for a sail that can be wrecked ever so easily). As for smoking... I'd rather spend my time and money in the garage. (and I love sailing, beer and many other activities) Neil ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Garside" To: ; Sent: Friday, November 17, 2000 9:43 AM Subject: RE: Is it worth it? > Roland, > > This is a question as old as time, but still worth talking about. I have > done all sorts of restos, from buying a good Aston Martin and Fiat 124 > spider, improving them a bit then selling them on, to buying complete wrecks > of XK140 and (currently) Lancia Montecarlo and getting them back on the > road. I usually have sold them for more than I paid out to buy, but have > spent more in total than I got for them. I carry on doing it because I love > the work itself, even more than driving them. > > The short answer is, financially, no. If you buy at the bottom of a rising > market, and do very little, then you _can_ make some money on an old car. > But generally, you will seldom get your money back. If you do want to cover > your costs, you have to choose the right car in not too bad a condition very > cheaply. Someone else's failed project is sometimes a good idea. A project > is usually cheaper than the parts it contains, and there may be some > expensive replacement parts included. My Monte, for example, cost me GBP > 500, but included mag wheels, new tyres, wings, doors and other bits alone > worth more than GBP 2000. To have needed to replace these items would have > made the project uneconomical. As it is, I expect to spend about GBP 3000 on > it, which I might just get back. But this isn't counting my labour, of > course. I do it because that's what I like doing. > > How to make money on a project: > > Buy a rare two-seater with racing history very cheaply. Two-seaters are > cheaper to restore because they are smaller and have less interior trim. > Racers don't have expensive-to-restore chrome and other trim parts. So > Rovers or Cadillacs cost more to restore than Ferrari GTOs. Sell on a rising > market. > > If your classic is a daily driver, you can compare it favourably with the > alternative. If I run a scruffy MGB, it will not depreciate. If I get it > sorted mechanically and electrically, and rechrome the bumpers, it will add > a bit of value, and it can be more reliable than an old econobox which which > has reached the end of its design life. When I rebuild the econobox's engine > or replace the bumpers, it will most likely cost me more in parts and will > not add any value to the car. Looked at this way, it can make some sense > economically to have a classic. > > What the hell, it's a hobby, and hobbies cost! > > Paul. > > From: BritshIron@aol.com > Subject: Worth The Price? > > It's come to my conclusion, that any certain vehicle has to be important to > the owner to put so much into it. I am speaking of trying to restore a > vehicle, from purchase to rolling beauty. I am in the midst of having the > body work and upholstery done on the P5 and it's looking pretty good. Of > course I'm going to own the most expensive $3000 Rover, as Rover prices have > > not really commanded Ferrari prices. My question is this: is it worth it? I > know a friend of mine that has a $10,000 MGB and he knows he can only get > between 6-8K. Saloons get even less. I know this question has weighed > heavily > on many minds. I can do the mechanical work, but the more expensive labor > work I have to source out. There's also the wood work and the chrome that > still needs doing. Is it all without regret? Or should we all just buy > cheap > import cars and park the old ones out back. Guess I'm wondering if everyone > is happy they did it instead of just buying a new car. > > Roland > 52 Austin Somerset > 54 Rover P4 > 60 Rover P5 > 66 Rover P6 > 67 Sunbeam Minx From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 05:39:51 2000 From: "Jim & Ann Brown" To: , , Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 06:40:26 -0600 Subject: Re: Worth The Price? Roland, While I have suggested this before, the subject does come back to life now and then. If you indulge in a little rationalization perhaps you might feel a little better about the economics of the ownership, care and feeding of (classic) (vintage) (special interest) (just plain "old") cars -- (pick one, but only one punch and no chads). If one must look at this hobby as an "investment," consider the typical two-fold nature of investments in general. An investment generally offers two distinct returns (if you are a more successful investor than me, that is) -- capital appreciation and income. The concern you express in your posting, I would suggest, looks only at the former. The fact that you never "get your bait back" does not necessarily mean that you have a bad investment. You must also look at the income side. I would suggest that the income you receive, while intangible, can be immense. This is the pleasure you receive from your ownership of your silly little British cars, along with the satisfaction you receive from your personal efforts in their care and improvement. It includes the smile that automatically comes to the face of an observer as you drive by. It is not unfair, in an economic sense, for you to consider this "income" element and give it a subjective value. Do this and you might feel better about it. :-) All the best, Jim Brown Bentley buff Houston ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2000 10:56 PM Subject: Worth The Price? > It's come to my conclusion, that any certain vehicle has to be important to > the owner to put so much into it. I am speaking of trying to restore a > vehicle, from purchase to rolling beauty. I am in the midst of having the > body work and upholstery done on the P5 and it's looking pretty good. Of > course I'm going to own the most expensive $3000 Rover, as Rover prices have > not really commanded Ferrari prices. My question is this: is it worth it? I > know a friend of mine that has a $10,000 MGB and he knows he can only get > between 6-8K. Saloons get even less. I know this question has weighed heavily > on many minds. I can do the mechanical work, but the more expensive labor > work I have to source out. There's also the wood work and the chrome that > still needs doing. Is it all without regret? Or should we all just buy cheap > import cars and park the old ones out back. Guess I'm wondering if everyone > is happy they did it instead of just buying a new car. > > Roland > 52 Austin Somerset > 54 Rover P4 > 60 Rover P5 > 66 Rover P6 > 67 Sunbeam Minx From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 07:28:50 2000 From: CAWS52803@aol.com To: healeys@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 09:28:02 EST Subject: Harrison Ford and his Healey I recently saw the cover of the current People magazine and Harrison Ford appears to be leaving his wife of many years. It was only a few months ago that he celebrated his birthday with her when she gave him an Austin-Healeys 3000. Speaking from experience, one should always have more than one car to spare. Rudy Streng From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 08:35:55 2000 From: "J Arzt" To: BritshIron@aol.com, british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 09:35:15 CST Subject: Re: Worth The Price? Well, you can tell by my list of cars, I'm not gonna get rich from ANY of them. The Humbers in particular will cost a fortune to do the chrome and the interiors. But I'm in no hurry. All my cars are drivable, maybe a little rough around the edges, but they're drivable. I do things a little at a time. I go to shows with my cars, occasionally even leave with a trophy when MUCH nicer cars were there. The difference is, when was the last time you saw a Humber or a Commer at a Brit-car show? I've never won anything but a long-distance award with my Alpine, but I don't like it any less. It's just more common. I guess what it comes down to, is that I like all the cars I have. I drive them whenever I want to. I have a more "modern" car for the missus, a 1982 Mercedes diesel wagon. It has all the creature comforts she wants, and is still simple enough for me to work on. No payments, and reasonable insurance costs. But I prefer my old Rootes cars. Sure, something may break now and then, heck, they're 30 to 40 years old. That's one of the reasons I have several! I can take a car out of use easily, and just switch to another while I wait for parts. I spend money on them, but not as much annually as I would if I was making payments on a new car. And, I GUARANTEE you that new car won't make it to 40 years old. Jon Arzt 1958 Hillman Minx convertible 1961 Humber Super Snipe 1966 Humber Super Snipe estate 1966 Sunbeam Alpine 1967 Sunbeam Funwagon 1974 Commer Autosleeper >From: BritshIron@aol.com >Reply-To: BritshIron@aol.com >To: british-cars@autox.team.net, rovernet@lyris.ccdata.com >Subject: Worth The Price? >Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 23:56:31 EST > >It's come to my conclusion, that any certain vehicle has to be important to >the owner to put so much into it. I am speaking of trying to restore a >vehicle, from purchase to rolling beauty. I am in the midst of having the >body work and upholstery done on the P5 and it's looking pretty good. Of >course I'm going to own the most expensive $3000 Rover, as Rover prices >have >not really commanded Ferrari prices. My question is this: is it worth it? I >know a friend of mine that has a $10,000 MGB and he knows he can only get >between 6-8K. Saloons get even less. I know this question has weighed >heavily >on many minds. I can do the mechanical work, but the more expensive labor >work I have to source out. There's also the wood work and the chrome that >still needs doing. Is it all without regret? Or should we all just buy >cheap >import cars and park the old ones out back. Guess I'm wondering if everyone >is happy they did it instead of just buying a new car. > >Roland >52 Austin Somerset >54 Rover P4 >60 Rover P5 >66 Rover P6 >67 Sunbeam Minx _________________________________________________________________________ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 09:45:14 2000 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Richard Feibusch) To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 08:38:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: US Politics??? Listers, The best comment that I.ve heard about the US elections came from a German on TV who said that in most countries, when an election is suspect, the military takes control - only in America the lawyers take over! Cheers, Rick Feibusch Venice, CA From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 11:13:05 2000 From: F Underwood To: Jim & Ann Brown Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 13:13:07 -0500 Subject: Re: Worth The Price? This almost invades the sanctums of religion and politics, regarding the 'worth' of a vehicle and the costs that are put into them. I honestly have not kept a ledger of what I have spent on my Ford. But I don't really look at it as money spent or the worth of the Ford but rather, what have I become as a result of it. I have traveled to parts of the world that I probably would not have done otherwise. I have made acquaintances with people I would not have otherwise met. I have developed skills that I would not have otherwise learned. I too, own a car that most people don't know what it is, or that it even existed. It does not have much of a market value. But at the time that I was looking for a 'project' it was available at a price that I could afford. As far as dollars and cents, I started at $500 for acquisition of the Ford. Since that time, which by the way now exceeds 12 years, I have bought parts, tools, materials and most recently, construction of a workshop. These costs have now exceeded $20,000. And yes, I have thought that perhaps I should have had a different model or a different marque, but I have still proceeded with the same quality and passion towards my hobby regardless of marque! cheers, -- Frank U 59 Ford Consul MKII 'lowline' convertible http://members.aol.com/funder770/home.htm Atlanta GA USA (well sort of...) oh yeah a '79 Spitfire 1500 project too! From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 11:59:35 2000 From: "Musson, Carl" To: "'F Underwood'" Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 13:52:57 -0500 Subject: RE: Worth The Price? As far as dollars and cents, I started at $500 for acquisition of the Ford. Since that time, which by the way now exceeds 12 years, I have bought parts, tools, materials and most recently, construction of a workshop. These costs have now exceeded $20,000. Let's look at that... $20K Total Expense Less current value (I have no idea but say:) $4000 Cost to operate = $16K or $1333 per year. Econobox - New: $20K Drive for 8 years. Value $4000. Maintenance & Upkeep $500 per year. cost to operate = $20K or $1666 per year. True; during the first few years you are driving a new car with no (relatively) headaches. But - you can't work on it; you don't get the intrinsic value of the head-turner, etc. and you also wouldn't have the workshop, the tools, etc. No brainer on my part ... From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 12:24:34 2000 From: BritshIron@aol.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net, rovernet@lyris.ccdata.com Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 14:22:28 EST Subject: The Worth Of Restoration Thanks to all that have responded, I appreciate all the input. After looking at all my cars in various states of repair (or disrepair as the case may apply) , she finally put her foot down and wanted at least ONE done. So, since the P5 is my favorite, this was a very tough choice as I like the P4 as well, it was the closest to being a viable vehicle and has not let me down yet. I guess my earlier posting would suggest that I plan on selling out to make some money. Of course not. I realize it's not an investment, but a statement that I truly like the car. And I don't have a long history with this car, just that it is a car I just plain like. It's unusual, classy, drives well and puts a smile on my face. It even keeps up with motorway speeds albeit a little winded. Hopefully, when I change the differential I got from Chris Devlin's 66 Coupe automatic, it'll be even more relaxed. (thanks again Chris). I may be a little more paranoid about leaving the car in the local Price Club though since shopping carts and swinging doors will make a lasting impression on the paint work. Shouldn't be any different from parking a $50K Lexus out there. Well, actually, it would be different, as they probably produced more Lexus last month than all the Rovers imported in the whole year of 1960! About 345. I think this car is worth it and feel from the response of everyone, that I made the right choice. (geez, glad I didn't opt for the real leather, 2X's the price). It'll be a very unique and classy car. It also won't be lost in the sea of TR's and MG's at the shows ;-). "Leather like interior, $3K, paint and body work, $4K, smiles on the face, priceless! For all the rest, there's Mastercard." Thanks again for all the comments. Roland 52 Austin Somerset 54 Rover P4 60 Rover P5 66 Rover P6 67 Sunbeam Minx From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 12:34:40 2000 From: tjhiggin@chris.iss.ingr.com (T.J. Higgins) To: british-cars@autox.team.net (SOL) Date: Fri, 17 Nov 00 13:33:55 CST Subject: Re: The Worth Of Restoration Roland aka BritshIron@aol.com writes: > I realize it's not an investment, but a > statement that I truly like the car. And I don't have a long history with > this car, just that it is a car I just plain like. It's unusual, classy, > drives well and puts a smile on my face. And these are the main reasons for owning an old car. It should move you. Emotionally, that is. If it moves you physically, as in place to place, so much the better. :^) And it will sometimes move you to tears, as when it breaks down at the least opportune time! -- T.J. Higgins tjhiggin@ingr.com Huntsville, AL From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 13:25:47 2000 From: "Fred Thomas" To: Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 15:52:03 -0500 Subject: is it worth it This thread has produced some very good experiences as to whether or not restore a car, no one seems to have touched on one of the best reasons to restore a car, "PEOPLE", the other car hobbiest you meet, the families you meet, the friendships that will last a lifetime, I cannot begin to think of the great times I have had at shows, traveling, and this list, without these beautifull little LBC's we would all be a little less happy each and everyday of ours lives, yes the people make this hobby worth while, what the heck are you going to do with all your money anyway, enjoy the ride, it's a lifetime of happieness. "FT" From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 13:33:59 2000 From: "Dodd, Kelvin" To: "'british-cars@autox.team.net'" Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 12:33:44 -0800 Subject: RE: is it worth it F W I W I look upon British Cars as Semi-Mobile Sculpture. When you take the transportation aspect out of the equation, then the money, time, sweat and tears spent don't really matter. Kelvin. owner of misc. mobile and non-mobile British sculptures. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 14:53:17 2000 From: Herald948@aol.com To: vtr@autox.team.net, vtr-www@vtr.sanders.com, triumphs@autox.team.net, Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 10:12:46 EST Subject: New VTR WWW Pages now online... [NOTE: Please reply to ] Today, November 17, 2000, the 6th anniversary of the official introduction of a web site for The Vintage Triumph Register, I am happy to announce that a revamped VTR web site is now in place. The new look is a product of much work by new VTR WWW Maintainer [and Herald owner! :-) ] Jill Kallos, with much input and help from Ken Streeter, Web Maintainer Emeritus, and others. Do note that one or two sections -- notably the Classified Ads -- are experiencing minor problems, but we hope to have that solved shortly. We hope that all will find the revamped pages to their liking and will continue to find the VTR site useful and informative. Of course, we welcome any and all input in the form of contributions, but comments and constructive criticism are appreciated as well. Please direct any such comments to . --Andy Andrew Mace, President, The Vintage Triumph Register From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 19:31:50 2000 From: "Triumph Nut" To: vafred@erols.com, british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 21:31:15 EST Subject: Re: is it worth it Well said Fred. Without my TR8 I wouldn't have met such nice Triumph owners, when I finish my MGA I hope to go to some MG outings as well as Jaguar ones. If they are anything like the Triumph owners I'll be in for a good time. Last year I sold my 20 foot center console boat which I bought new. I paid $18000 plus trailer plus tax, added some electronics, etc, had the boat for 2 1/2 years on which I put 26 hours on it, during that time I had about $1500 worth of repairs due to having the boat sit for a long time. I sold it for $8000 and I thought I did great! So if you spend $10,000 on a car, ENJOY it for a few years then get back maybe $6000 or $8000, where else can you find a vehicle that will depreciate 20% over a few years and sometimes appreciate. Can't say that about my beautiful BMW 750 that I paid $10,000 for in 1997 for, this was a $75,000 car new in 1988, somebody took a beating. Jack Levy www.driveableclassics.com 1980 Spitfire 1980 TR8 1963 Anglia 1957 MGA 1971 E-type 1959 TR3 more.. >From: "Fred Thomas" >Reply-To: "Fred Thomas" >To: >CC: >Subject: is it worth it >Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 15:52:03 -0500 > >This thread has produced some very good experiences as to whether or not >restore a car, no one seems to have touched on one of the best reasons to >restore a car, >"PEOPLE", the other car hobbiest you meet, the families you meet, the >friendships that will last a lifetime, I cannot begin to think of the great >times I have had at shows, traveling, and this list, without these >beautifull little LBC's we would all be a little less happy each and >everyday of ours lives, yes the people make this hobby worth while, what >the >heck are you going to do with all your money anyway, enjoy the ride, it's a >lifetime of happieness. "FT" _________________________________________________________________________ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 20:57:26 2000 From: "Phil Ethier" To: "Musson, Carl" , Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 21:37:42 -0600 Subject: Re: Worth The Price? I have never lost money on a "toy" car. It's the transportation cars that have eaten me alive. I drive them in the winter and the rust takes all the value off of them. Hope the Saturn holds up better in that regard. Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1970 Lotus Europa, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1986 Suburban, 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L LOON, MAC pethier@isd.net http://www.mnautox.com/ "It makes a nice noise when it goes faster" - 4-year-old Adam, upon seeing a bitmap of Grandma Susie's TR4. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 20:59:07 2000 From: "Phil Ethier" To: "Richard Feibusch" , Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 21:30:47 -0600 Subject: Re: US Politics??? >The best comment that I.ve heard about the US elections came from a German >on TV who said that in most countries, when an election is suspect, the >military takes control - only in America the lawyers take over! Right. And they have plenty of time to do it in a semi-orderly fashion. We have a President until January 20. There is no crisis. No doubt about who's in charge. Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1970 Lotus Europa, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1986 Suburban, 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L LOON, MAC pethier@isd.net http://www.mnautox.com/ "It makes a nice noise when it goes faster" - 4-year-old Adam, upon seeing a bitmap of Grandma Susie's TR4. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 21:10:05 2000 From: "Phil Ethier" To: Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 22:18:29 -0600 Subject: bugeye sighting. Tomorrow night our local PBS station is showing "Where The Boys Are", the prototypical beach movie. I noticed in the ad for the show a bunch of guys running down the beach carrying a Bugeye Sprite. Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1970 Lotus Europa, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1986 Suburban, 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L LOON, MAC pethier@isd.net http://www.mnautox.com/ "It makes a nice noise when it goes faster" - 4-year-old Adam, upon seeing a bitmap of Grandma Susie's TR4. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 17 23:42:20 2000 From: Barney Gaylord To: "Triumph Nut" , british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 00:39:51 -0600 Subject: Re: is it worth it At 09:31 PM 11/17/2000 EST, Triumph Nut wrote: >.... >Last year I sold my 20 foot center console boat which I bought new. I paid $18000 plus trailer plus tax, added some electronics, etc, had the boat for 2 1/2 years on which I put 26 hours on it, during that time I had about $1500 worth of repairs due to having the boat sit for a long time. I sold it for $8000 and I thought I did great! >.... Ya know, I always thought boats were expensive, but my calculator makes that to be about $650 per hour for the usage. Just a thought. I have a slightly different value system for my MGA. It starts with the assumption that every penny spent on it is an out of pocket expense, like taking a vacation for pleasure, never to be recovered, because I don't intend to ever sell it. Therefore I figure the first break point was when the odometer hit 3600 miles after the restoration, because that's how far I could have walked in the 1200 hours it took me to restore it. The next break point came at about 42,000 miles when the $10,500 cost of restoration (including initial purchase price of $800) amortized out to $0.25 per mile, about the same as the cost of a new car purchased in the same year that the restoration was finished. I have now accumulated 160,000 miles since the FIRST restoration, and have done about 90% of a second restoration over the last few years (since it hit 130,000 miles in 12 years of use). I kept track of all repair and restoration expenses during that interval, totaling $7,200 in 12 years, after which the car was nearly new again, similar to the condition after the original restoration. The conclusion is that with the appropriate TLC and adequate input of my own labor (for free of course), this car can be kept on the road forever for about $50 per month in repairs and restoration expense. This does not include daily operating expense items such as fuel, brake linings and tires, but it does include all breakdown repairs and the most recent paint, top and interior, fresh engine and gearbox and all reconditoning of the hydraulics and some new chrome work. It now has about 300,000 miles total and is still a dependable daily driver and weekend warrior. So in terms of pure economics, if you start with a car in good condition, and you take care of your car, it is very economical to own, and you could never afford to replace it. The only valid argument against this is the amount of your personal time required to maintain your hobby. When it's no longer fun, or you don't have the time to do it, then it's a totally different proposition, and you simply swap it for one of those modern transportation appliances. But then where would the fun be? Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sat Nov 18 01:04:45 2000 From: Mark J Bradakis To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 01:02:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: Is it worth it, Take N I doubt there are many folks reading this who honestly feel "it" isn't worth it. One can offer up various examples of purchase price, resale value, operating expenses and such for one of our beloved steeds compared to more mainstream modes of transport, but such reckonings are in my opinion merely meant to quiet only a portion of our analytical brains. There is a wide range of both overt and covert reasons for doing what we do. Logic, practicality and conformity have been at odds with beauty, joy and self expression long before the first Little British Car ever rolled off the line. I could sit down at my desk, pencil at the ready, and figure out how much time and tribulation over the years I've put into sheparding those aspects of Team.Net for which I am responsible. And then work on balancing that ledger against what efforts I could have put into my own fleet of cars, my parts business, one could even say my life. But what I do *is* my life, not something I do waiting for my life to happen to me. Not wanting to get too far off on a philosophical path I'll just say that if I had all the money I've ever spent on cars and such, I'd spend it all on cars and such. But the cars do not matter. Sure, we can all stand around our virtual grease pit here, lean against the community workbench and offer up our opinions on the merits of a solid axle Midget versus the swing spring IRS of the Spitfire, or the latest scoop on synthetic oils or alternator conversions or Weber jets or whatever. It is not important what we do to the cars, it is what the cars do to us. MGs, Triumphs, Rovers, whatever, the badge on the bonnet isn't really what creates our community. Where, on my ledger of Team.Net accounts, would I put an entry to account for the award given to me at the Portland, Maine VTR convention? And what significance would that treasure have if it were not for the people behind it? At the risk of going a bit over my allotted time here, I'll include a short note written about a decade ago. Some of you long term listers may have heard me tell of the Rust Rocket, a TR4 I had a while back, and the first Triumph I started tuning for autocrossing. It came to mind because someone on another list was looking for a TR4 rolling chassis to be used in a possible project. I still have the remains of that car, though I did sell it at one time, somehow managing to get it back, and it could be just what this fellow needs. Anyway, here's a snippet about the first time I sold it. mjb. ---- That smile gave him away, plastered across his face like a freshly painted billboard. I couldn't help but remember the first few times I bought cars, young and eager, full of energy. He looked at it, and liked it. A young teacher at a nearby private school, sort of thin and lanky, reminded me of an old high school friend. My friend and I had been over at Melvin's garage when the head was finally back on the red TR3, the carbs were adjusted and the battery connected. Time for a test ride, both then and now. I hop into the Rust Rocket, fire it up and back out of the tricky section of the drive. Matt, the teacher, beams with delight as I jump out of the driver's seat, offering the vacated premises to him. Around the block, timid and slow, he barely gets over about 2 grand before shifting. Fumbling about with the stubby TR-3 lever, he is unsure of the car and his desire. We putter back to the Fat Chance, and he gets out, again with the tell tale smile irrevocably, it seems, wedged into his face. I offer to show him the way that *I* drive the car, so off we go again. He is impressed. I wanted to tell him about the long hours of tedious, dirty work, the small agonies of constantly bruised hands during major projects, dirty fingers, late nights, swapping trannies in the drive in the dead of winter. I wanted to warn him of wallowing in the mud after a roadside stall, looking for a clue, or perhaps a lost bolt. I wanted to let him know there would be days he would curse the name of Triumph, of all things British, and most especially he would curse me and the clattering coughs of the worthless red hulk he foolishly bought that summer's day. I did not need to tell him of days like this, though, with crystalline skies and throaty exhaust, bouncing around corners in a car crafted for such joys. He hadn't really wanted a Triumph, he had been wanting a Jaguar, it seems, his sights set on someday having the perfect XK 150. Too much for a man of quite modest means. But for now, he has the Rust Rocket, and that smile on his face. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 19 09:25:46 2000 From: BROWNING_G_WILLIAM@Lilly.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 11:21:01 -0500 Subject: World Series results in question Enjoy: Bill B BJ8 Mets Call for New World Series By Dorothea Cooke November 15, 2000 New York - The New York Mets announced Wednesday they are petitioning Major League Baseball Commissioner Bud Selig and the US District Court in New York City to get an additional inning added to Game 5 of the World Series, which they lost to the Yankees by a score of 4-2. The game ended on a pop-up by Mets slugger Mike Piazza, giving the game and the championship to their cross-town rivals. Piazza said there was no way he meant to hit the ball to Yankees centerfielder Bernie Williams on the warning track of Shea Stadium. "I meant for that ball to go all the way out of the park and take us to the next game. I misread Mariano Rivera's pitch. I mean let's face it, I'm Mike Piazza and it is my right to hit a home run. That's what I've done all season. I demand another at bat." Mets General Manager Steve Phillips and Manager Bobby Valentine said the outcome of the game could alter their earlier decision to fire hitting coach Tom Robson. "Because of the confusion of the balls being thrown our way, a man has lost his job," said the usually emotional Valentine. Between tearful sobs, Valentine said the Yankees admitted to deliberately confusing Mets batters by mixing up their pitches and making it impossible for his normally hot-hitting team to win. "We are going to keep playing Game 5 until we like the outcome," said Valentine. "We want a new game and new balls." Mets management was joined by members of the Major League Baseball Players Union, who said they supported the Mets, but urged everyone "not to rush to judgment and let this game be played out," for the sake of the fans. "We meant to hit those pitches from the Yankee pitchers," said Phillips. "We were confused by the irregularities of the pitches we received and believe we have been denied our right to hit." Yankees pitcher Andy Pettitte, winner of game 5, said there was "no way" he was going to "telegraph" to the other team when he was throwing his sinking fastball. "I did that last year and it took all the fun out of the season and almost got me traded," Pettitte said while fishing in his home state of Louisiana. One claim specifically noted by Mets attorney Alan Dershowitz was that a small percentage of the Mets batters had intended to swing at Roger "The Rocket" Clemens fastballs, but couldn't keep up with them. However, that should not disqualify them from being allowed to bat continuously, Dershowitz argued. But a high-ranking front office official for the Yankees who requested anonymity accused Dershowitz of "extreme partisanship," in the matter, citing the attorney's support of the Boston Red Sox, arch rivals of the Yankees. "The friend of my enemy is my enemy," said the official. Several hitters said they found themselves confused by closer Marino Rivera's cut fastball as well. Mets hitters said they weren't sure if they were swinging at sliders or curveballs from any of the Yankee pitchers. One Major League Baseball official, who asked not to be identified said, "It was clear that these batters never intended to swing at curve balls, though a much higher percentage were not confused by the pitches." Several sports reporters at the press conference pointed out that the Mets had extensively reviewed film of the Yankees pitchers prior to the World Series and had in fact faced the Yankees in inter-league play earlier in the year. "The fact remains that some of the pitches confused us and denied us of our right to hit," said Valentine. "The World Series is not over yet and the Yankees celebrated prematurely and we understand they are already ordering their championship rings." ,Major League Baseball has reviewed the telecast of all the World Series games and recounted the balls and strikes called by the umpires of each game. "While some of the strikes called against the Mets were, in fact, balls, there were not enough of them to change the outcome of the World Series," said Selig. Another portion of the Mets legal claim stated that according to the on-base percentage of the team, the Mets had actually won the World Series, regardless of the final scores of the games. "It's clear that we were slightly on-base more often than the Yankees," said a Mets spokesman. The Mets had eight hits compared to seven for the Yankees in Game 5. "The World Series crown is rightly ours," said Valentine, but Yankee Manager Joe Torre dismissed the claim, calling the Mets "sore losers." "Quite frankly I expected more from them. They are a class organization from top to bottom," said Torre. "But this World Series was clearly an engagement of democracy in action. Everyone on the team produced, from utility infielder Luis Sojo to Jose Vizcaino and an injured Paul O'Neill. In certifying this victory for the Yankees, we respect and abide by the will of baseball fans everywhere." Christopher C. LeMasters Eli Lilly and Company Manager, Corporate Business Development Phone: 317-276-5511 Fax: 317-277-2275 From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 19 09:50:36 2000 From: BritshIron@aol.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 11:49:38 EST Subject: Andrew Mace Sorry to bomb the list, but can Andrew contact me off list. Roland 52 Austin Somerset 54 Rover P4 60 Rover P5 66 Rover P6 67 Sunbeam Minx From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 19 10:23:22 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 12:22:29 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#28 Well, another day to take it REAL SLOW. On Saturday I was determined to get the rear oil seal and plate in place, attach the clutch, and then the transmission. First I took the cylinder head nuts/bolts, cleaned off the oil, and re-torqued them dry to 55 foot pounds. But the rest of my aggressive plan blew up when I managed to somehow cross thread one of the bolts that holds the backing place where the oil seal fits. Lord knows how I did it, I've put it in and taken it out a dozen times. I was so mad I was ready to break something. But wait, I already had!!!! I probably could have fixed the threads, but given that the plate is pretty inaccessible when everything is back in the car, I calmed down and ordered another plate which will be here Tuesday. "No problem, I thought," I'll quit for today, leave the engine hanging in the air from the lift, and go see Schwarzenegger in "The Sixth Day," which was pretty crummy by the way, and then work on replacing the bushings on the transmission's gear shift housing assembly on Sunday. Well, guess what? It's Sunday in temperate North Carolina and it's SNOWING..... Engine and lift are covered, so looks like it's off to see "Men of Honor" today..... So, the question for the day is, "Can I leave the engine hanging from the lift? I'm not worried about the front chain which attaches to the block where the air pump goes, but the rear chain is attached to the last intake manifold bolt, and I'm concerned that it might be too much of a strain? Also I'm keeping the engine up in the air only a few inches above the ground in case something broke free. As usual, thanks for providing sound advice, and not laughing.... So I left the engine hanging in the air from the lift. . Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 19 12:20:31 2000 From: Simon Matthews To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 11:19:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: Save a Jensen Healey! A friend asked if I knew of a home for a Jensen Healay. Here is the deal: The car is in the SF Bay area. It has not run for some time -- it has been sitting outside, uncovered for several years. It is largely complete except that it has no seats. Probably the best use is as a parts car. The price can't be beaten: free. Just haul it away. Contact me if you are serious and I will put you in contact with the owner. Simon From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 19 17:09:40 2000 From: Mark J Bradakis To: simon@matthews-family.org.uk Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 17:09:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: Save a Jensen Healey! Drat. In a few days, I'll be driving from here in Salt Lake City to southern California, a TR6 on a trailer behind me. The trip home will be with an empty trailer. I was thinking of shaking the bushes and seeing if any Triumph GT6 project cars fell at my feet, so I'd have something to haul home for the return trip, and yet another hulk awaiting my attention. But I decided to be firm in my resolve to make some progress on cars I already have. Luckily the SF Bay area isn't exactly on my way home, so passing up a free car almost makes sense. mjb. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 19 18:25:46 2000 From: "Phil Ethier" To: "Mark J Bradakis" , Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 19:33:45 -0600 Subject: Re: Save a Jensen Healey! From: Mark J Bradakis To: simon@matthews-family.org.uk Cc: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Sunday, November 19, 2000 6:11 PM Subject: Re: Save a Jensen Healey! >But I decided to be firm in my resolve to make some progress on cars I >already have. Luckily the SF Bay area isn't exactly on my way home, so >passing up a free car almost makes sense. (Watch this, guys) That's OK, Mark. We understand that you are probably not up to dealing with a car having a Lotus engine anyway. ;-) Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1970 Lotus Europa, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1986 Suburban, 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L LOON, MAC pethier@isd.net http://www.mnautox.com/ "It makes a nice noise when it goes faster" - 4-year-old Adam, upon seeing a bitmap of Grandma Susie's TR4. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 19 18:42:29 2000 From: ARoman4047@aol.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 20:41:41 EST Subject: trickle down auto-motives? Gentlepersons- Interesting side bar in the Times, today: Seems the upper 5th of Americans now buy 2/5ths of the new autos. Price-wise, they account for 3/5ths of all spending (got that? there's a quiz later). Bigger and bigger SUV's are the order of the day, and as sales of smaller (and more fuel efficient) cars shrinks, the sales of two and three year old (off lease) SUV's has increased. GM has even shown a proto-behemoth Hummer with required truck side lights... Tony in NJ W.A.S.T.E. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 20 07:10:16 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 09:08:27 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#29 Well, I beginning to think that maybe my particularly TR7, and anyone who holds the pink slip, is cursed. I already told you about messing up the backing plate, and then the snow coming to finish off the chance of getting any other work done. Now, as Paul Harvey would say, here's the rest of the story. It's snowing, so I decide to build a fire and read through the TR7 manual. I reach into the fireplace to push open the flue vent, and the whole assembly comes apart. After getting covered with soot fixing the vent, I start a fire, and then stand up too close to the fireplace, smacking my head against the mantle, leaving a few scratches while I try to remember some eloquent Navy oaths. Then, just to make it interesting, the furnace, only two years old, decides to quit as the temperatures start to approach freezing outside. I head over to my mom's house to grap a couple of space heaters. As I step up to the front door, a BAT, hanging out above the door to get out of the weather, comes flying down into my hair, scrambling to get the heck out of the way. I feel something scratch my head, wings, claws, vampire teeth, who knows!!!! My mom examines my head (no puns, please...) Are those scratches from the mantel, or from the bat?... So I call my doctor who says chances of rabies are infinitessimally small, but I better go over to the emergency room and get RABIES SHOTS!!! Great... I show up at the ER at 9:00pm. Since I'm not dying on the spot, they treat more urgent problems first. I try to talk to the nurse about using ATF fluid in the TR7 transmission, but she is strangely uninterested. I finally escape at 1:00am, with one shot in the arm, three in the butt, and the prospect of four more over the next twenty days.... Also I have this strange urging to wander through the cemetery, and I'm really thirsty.... So, maybe my TR7 was formerly owned by Bela Lugosi who still holds power over it. I can't think of any other good reason for what's been going on lately! Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 20 08:26:32 2000 From: "Mark Fawcett" To: , , , Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 07:22:14 -0800 Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#29 Y'know Bruce this is the most fun I've had on this list since I got on. I find myself looking forward to your further adventures and mishaps during this repair. In all honesty, I think we've all had similar things happen while working on projects, but when they do, I've kind of looked over my shoulder to see if anyone was watching and if they were then I'd just say "Yeah, well I was expecting that to happen" . I think you've provided a valuable service to newbies in the hobby or a reminder to the rest of that have "been there, done that". Shit Happens and when it does, you clean it up and move forward. Regards, Mark Fawcett ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Monday, November 20, 2000 6:08 AM Subject: TR7 BFH#29 > Well, I beginning to think that maybe my particularly TR7, and anyone who > holds the pink slip, is cursed. I already told you about messing up the > backing plate, and then the snow coming to finish off the chance of getting > any other work done. Now, as Paul Harvey would say, here's the rest of the > story. > > It's snowing, so I decide to build a fire and read through the TR7 manual. I > reach into the fireplace to push open the flue vent, and the whole assembly > comes apart. After getting covered with soot fixing the vent, I start a > fire, and then stand up too close to the fireplace, smacking my head against > the mantle, leaving a few scratches while I try to remember some eloquent > Navy oaths. > > Then, just to make it interesting, the furnace, only two years old, decides > to quit as the temperatures start to approach freezing outside. I head over > to my mom's house to grap a couple of space heaters. As I step up to the > front door, a BAT, hanging out above the door to get out of the weather, > comes flying down into my hair, scrambling to get the heck out of the way. I > feel something scratch my head, wings, claws, vampire teeth, who knows!!!! > My mom examines my head (no puns, please...) Are those scratches from the > mantel, or from the bat?... > > So I call my doctor who says chances of rabies are infinitessimally small, > but I better go over to the emergency room and get RABIES SHOTS!!! Great... > > I show up at the ER at 9:00pm. Since I'm not dying on the spot, they treat > more urgent problems first. I try to talk to the nurse about using ATF fluid > in the TR7 transmission, but she is strangely uninterested. I finally escape > at 1:00am, with one shot in the arm, three in the butt, and the prospect of > four more over the next twenty days.... Also I have this strange urging to > wander through the cemetery, and I'm really thirsty.... > > So, maybe my TR7 was formerly owned by Bela Lugosi who still holds power over > it. I can't think of any other good reason for what's been going on lately! > > Bruce > 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible > Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 21 07:11:20 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 09:08:03 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#30 Hopefully, if I receive the backing plate today and get it on without messing something else up, I'll put the flywheel back on as well. I ordered a flywheel spacer plate that seemed to be missing, and I assume it goes between the flywheel and the crankshaft, or not? And I assume I should use some locktite on the flywheel bolt threads? Finally, with the engine hanging in the air from the hoist, how am I going to get enough leverage on the flywheel to torque the bolts instead of simply turning the crank? Wedge a screwdriver somewhere to hold the flywheel still? Inquiring minds thank you for your assistance. And as far a driving a stake through the Wedge's engine for exorcism purposes, hopefully I don't have to use an aluminum stake, else I might strip those bolt holes as well.... Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 Convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 21 09:34:06 2000 From: "greg dyche" To: , , , Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 08:28:10 -0800 Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#30 Bruce, I think a little Holy Water in the radiator before starting it up would be wise. Good luck, Greg 52 TD > And as far a driving a stake through the Wedge's engine for exorcism > purposes, hopefully I don't have to use an aluminum stake, else I might strip > those bolt holes as well.... From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 22 13:49:56 2000 From: "Taffel, Sherman" To: "'british-cars@autox.team.net'" Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 15:52:38 -0500 Subject: FW: Values, Investments, Enjoyments > -----Original Message----- > From: Taffel, Sherman > Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 3:48 PM > To: '-british-cars-digest@autox.team.net' > Subject: Values, Investments, Enjoyments > > > Just an additional note: I am way over what I expected on the Interceptor > Conv. > I paid top dollar, and then had to put in another 7K with upgrades and > wiring solutions with K&D. It is what it is. > I may be at or near peak value, and still have some issues, but it is a > fine car, one of 152 left in the world, and over the next few years I'll > recoup the unanticipated financial expenditure. The cross-continent trip > had its adventures in the desert, but I have travelled almost 6,000 miles > with the cart this summer- and it as challenging as well as fulfilling. > > Sherman From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 22 13:49:55 2000 From: "Taffel, Sherman" To: "'british-cars@autox.team.net'" Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 15:52:18 -0500 Subject: FW: Value of Hobby > -----Original Message----- > From: Taffel, Sherman > Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 3:26 PM > To: 'british-cars-digest@autox.team.net' > Subject: Value of Hobby > > Just for the reord- I agree that the best 'value' is the pride and > enjoyment of owning, fixing, improving, and enjoying the ride of the > /BBC's. As some of you are aware, I bought the Jensen Interceptor Conv > in July in Vancouver BC, spent two weeks with K&D in Seattle restoring and > upgrading engine components(A/C, fans, alternator), Firewall insulation, > and Eng. Bay wiring and we drove the car cross continent to MD, then to > J-2000 in Georgia. > > Sherman D. Taffel > Columbia. MD > TR4 > 2 Jensens > 4 Jags From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 23 08:57:12 2000 From: BritshIron@aol.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net, hillman@can-inc.com, Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 10:54:22 EST Subject: Happy Thanks Giving Hoping everyone has a great holiday. A good time to work on the cars while the ladies are out shopping :-) Roland 52 Austin Somerset 54 Rover P4 60 Rover P5 66 Rover P6 67 Sunbeam Minx From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 23 19:30:23 2000 From: "Kai M. Radicke" To: "Kai M. Radicke" Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 21:28:03 -0500 Subject: Testing Gearboxes & Overdrives About a year ago on the MG List there had been some interest in a tool I had made to bench test gearboxes and overdrives, I had promised schematics and more detail but I never got around to it until today. http://www.pil.net/~felix/tools/st0001-kmr.html This is the new design :) The old tool was made out of PVC pipe and lots of epoxy; this one is much more solid and will last much longer than the PVC one I was using. Total cost... $2.25, which was for the bit of metal pipe I purchased. I had the bolts, nuts, and used valve on hand. Please feel free to email me with questions and concerns... Cheers, -- Kai M. Radicke -- kai@radiohead.net 1974 Triumph TR6 Supercharged http://www.pil.net/~felix/supercharger/ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 24 02:30:07 2000 From: "Kai M. Radicke" To: "MG List" , Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 04:29:15 -0500 Subject: Testing Overdrives & Gearboxes CORRECTION Thanks to Michael Porter, Barney Gaylord, and Randall Young for catching the mistake I made about tailshaft RPM... no idea why I did that. Corrected now... Secondly, Michael Porter has the following improvement for those of you bound to tighten the clamping bolts very well! "The device would be less likely to mar the input shaft if a clamping collar were made. I realize the shaft is hardened, but if someone uses grade 8 bolts and cranks down on them to minimize slippage, there is a chance of damaging the nose of the input shaft. Clamping collars are a common lathe tool when working on small, delicate pieces. A suitable clamping collar can be made cheaply by finding a short piece of copper water pipe of an inside diameter just about equal to that of the OD of the input shaft, then sawing a slot in one side. Then, it's just a matter of slipping the clamping collar onto the input shaft, then tightening the drive tool bolts down." NOTE: I haven't yet found there to be any slippage of the tool, as there is pretty much no weight on the input shaft; I assume that someone is holding the drill while it is operating! Cheers, KMR From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Fri Nov 24 12:46:55 2000 From: "Phil Ethier" To: "John Browder" , Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 13:51:25 -0600 Subject: WTB MG-TC Respond directly to browder3@bellsouth.net not to me. Responses to me using auto-reply will go to the bit bucket. I also suggest that John join british-cars@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net, and especially mg-t@autox.team.net -----Original Message----- From: John Browder To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Friday, November 24, 2000 11:06 AM Subject: OT: WTB MG-TC >Pardon the off-topic post, but I know most of us run in mixed circles of >enthusiasts, so I hope someone might have a lead. I am primarily a TR-6 >(currently about 10!) enthusiast, but I have had Jags, Healeys, and MGs at >various times, and loved them all. > >I guess I'm getting a little nostalgic, and really have an itch for a RHD >car. I tried to find a RHD TR-6, but no luck. > >So I am looking for a nice TC...not a show car, but not a project either, >something ready to drive. Hopefully, can find one within 500 miles of >Knoxville. All leads appreciated > >John Browder >Knoxville From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sat Nov 25 08:30:19 2000 From: Alex Muentz To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 10:19:52 -0500 Subject: Available restoration spaces in the Boston area? Hmmm. Finally got my Rover back from the mechanic's and there's more wrong with it now than when I gave it to him. I've decided to bite the bullet and do this myself. However, I'm looking to see if anybody knows of cooperative garage space or the like that can be rented or obtained in the greater Boston area. If I have to resort to just getting one of those rental storage areas, does any body know of ones that don't mind people working on their cars there? Thanks! From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 26 16:03:21 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 18:00:52 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#31 Success! The engine is in!!! It had definitely grown while out of the car, but with the soothing influence of my 17 year-old son who kept calming me down when things looked their worst, we managed to shoe-horn the engine right back where it had started those many days ago when I though I would just change the bearings and nothing else.... At one point today I was sitting on the driveway with the transmission in my lap as we tried over and over again to get it to mate with the engine. Finally discovered that the metal plate that is on the bottom of the oil pan was in the way, and all we needed to do is bend it down slightly and the transmission slipped right in. The rear motor mount was a treat, trying to hold it in place while reaching under the car, with the bolt falling out over and over and over again, but eventually we prevailed. As for the actual insertion of the engine, after deliberating on the best approach, we eventually jack the rear up as high as we could, and then manuvered the engine in, and the rear back down, a couple of inches at a time. What a great sound when the engine finally dropped onto the left engine mount and we got the nut started to hold it fast. So, since I am SURE everything else will be fine, anyone want to buy the car right now? Maybe trade it for a Jag XKE or Lotus? What do you mean that's not a fair trade? Think I would be getting cheated?..... Now on to figuring out where all those loose wires go.... Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 26 16:55:00 2000 From: Colin Cobb To: Ed Townley Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 16:51:48 -0700 Subject: RE: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE Subject: RE: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE Official US Response to Independence Revocation Notice To the Governing Bodies of the United Kingdom: Your notice came as quite a shock to the vast majority of us who did not realize that the United Kingdom was still in existence. The complete lack of any usable culture, products, services, entertainment, or medical advancement coming from Britain was at fault, and we apologize. After a tiresome day spent tracking our enormous wealth and power, it was a bizarre notice indeed. Your "suggestion" has been considered and I am very sorry to say, denied. As a concession, however, it was universally agreed that you may have Utah. Our reasoning is outlined below. 1) While we have been unable to decide who will lead our country for 2 weeks, it seems that the UK has been in that state for many years. It was unclear to us why we would need two leaders permanently in the forms of the Prime Minister AND the Queen. Also, we had a problem with Tony Blair personally, as he is so overtly gay. 2) A bit of research indicated that you are having difficulty keeping your fuel prices below $2.10 per ounce and your taxes below 95% (what is this "VAT" anyway?), while still maintaining an expensive monarchy. This type of fiscal prudence would not mix well with our aforementioned enormous wealth and power. 3) Reverting to the English style of speaking would simply be too inefficient. In fact, we are considering teaching an entirely new language to our youth comprised entirely of grunts and hand gestures. Communication is quicker, more efficient, and allows us to continue to lead the planet in accumulating power and wealth. Plus, we don't sound like pompous asses. 4) We accept your provision 7, the bombing of Quebec and France, as long as you'll sweep up. 5) Hollywood actually attempted to cast British actors in heroic roles in the late 80's, but gave up when they could find none that were more masculine then Liberace. 6) In reviewing your form of football it became clear that soccer is not a sport, but rather a simple form of cardiovascular exercise. Additionally, when the "games" are completed, the tradition of trying to kill as many opposing fans as possible was deemed unacceptable. On the rare occasion that one of the 300 league teams involved actually scores a goal, the closing of banks and government offices in order to allow more time to discuss the goal was also considered somewhat inefficient. American football will continue to played with vigour. The reason for the padding, by the way, is the ability of our athletes to run fast, jump high, and hit hard. You don't need padding for a girly slap fight. In closing, may we just say we were flattered by your overtures, but simply do not see a merger being possible at this time. Perhaps with a little hard work, you can pull yourselves up by your bootstraps, and someday be considered to be in the same league as, say, Micronesia. Meantime, thank you for your interest and do keep in touch! --Citizens of the United States of America > NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE > > To the citizens of the United States of America, > > In the light of your failure to elect a President of the USA and thus to > govern yourselves, we hereby give notice of the revocation of your > independence, effective today. > > Her Sovereign Majesty Queen Elizabeth II will resume monarchial duties over > all states, commonwealths and other territories. Except Utah, which she > does not fancy. > > Your new prime minister (The rt. hon. Tony Blair, MP for the 97.85% of you > who have until now been unaware that there is a world outside your borders) > will appoint a minister for America without the need for further elections. > Congress and the Senate will be disbanded. A questionnaire will be > circulated next year to determine whether any of you noticed. > > To aid in the transition to a British Crown Dependency, the following rules > are introduced with immediate effect: > > 1. You should look up "revocation" in the Oxford English Dictionary. Then > look up "aluminium". Check the pronunciation guide. You will be amazed at > just how wrongly you have been pronouncing it. Generally, you should raise > your vocabulary to acceptable levels. Look up "vocabulary". Using the same > twenty seven words interspersed with filler noises such as "like" and "you > know" is an unacceptable and inefficient form of communication. Look up > "interspersed". > > 2. There is no such thing as "US English". We will let Microsoft know on > your behalf. > > 3. You should learn to distinguish the English and Australian accents. It > really isn't that hard. > > 4. Hollywood will be required occasionally to cast English actors as the > good guys. > > 5. You should relearn your original national anthem, "God Save The Queen", > but only after fully carrying out task 1. We would not want you to get > confused and give up half way through. > > 6. You should stop playing American "football". There is only one kind of > football. What you refer to as American "football" is not a very good game. > The 2.15% of you who are aware that there is a world outside your borders > may have noticed that no one else plays "American" football. You will no > longer be allowed to play it, and should instead play proper football. > Initially, it would be best if you played with the girls. It is a difficult > game. Those of you brave enough will, in time, be allowed to play rugby > (which is similar to American "football", but does not involve stopping for > a rest every twenty seconds or wearing full kevlar body armour like > nancies). We are hoping to get together at least a US rugby sevens side by > 2005. > > 7. You should declare war on Quebec and France, using nuclear weapons if > they give you any merde. The 98.85% of you who were not aware that there is > a world outside your borders should count yourselves lucky. The Russians > have never been the bad guys. "Merde" is French for "shit". > > 8. July 4th is no longer a public holiday. November 8th will be a new > national holiday, but only in England. It will be called "Indecisive Day". > > 9. All American cars are hereby banned. They are crap and it is for your > own good. When we show you German cars, you will understand what we mean. > > 10. Please tell us who killed JFK. It's been driving us crazy. > > Thank you for your cooperation. > ERII From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 26 18:35:53 2000 From: busyrider@springmail.com To: Colin Cobb Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 20:34:46 -0500 Subject: Timewasters was Re: RE: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE Colin, Boring. Boring. Boring. Boring. Boring. Boring. Your message is further proof that the bored and vocal minority are ruining what could otherwise be a worthwhile tool for lbc owners. Fred Criswell Who Doesn't Give A Damn About The Whining Of Politicians nor Attempts at Humor by Amateur Commedians Flame me. I don't care. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 26 18:55:51 2000 From: "Glen Wilson" To: , "Colin Cobb" Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 20:53:50 -0500 Subject: Re: Timewasters was Re: RE: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF Obviously, Colin's note was one of those tricky email deals that seem to be coming from the USA but was really sent by an Australian trying to discredit the American citizenry and foment a nuclear war between friendly nations so that the Southern Hemisphere can rule the world at last. We never saw this message before in our lives! Glen Alarmed US Citizen ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Colin Cobb" Cc: Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2000 8:34 PM Subject: Timewasters was Re: RE: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE > Colin, > Boring. Boring. Boring. Boring. Boring. Boring. > Your message is further proof that the bored and vocal minority are ruining what could otherwise be a worthwhile tool for lbc owners. > > Fred Criswell > Who Doesn't Give A Damn About The Whining Of Politicians nor Attempts at Humor by Amateur Commedians > > Flame me. I don't care. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Sun Nov 26 19:38:56 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 21:37:40 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#31a Two quick questions while I ponder re-installing all the other parts in the engine compartment. I bought new spark plug wires, mainly because the ones that came with the car have straight ends, so it's hard to fit them onto the plugs because they run into each other. But the new ones that arrived are also straight. Is it just me, or should the plug wires be angled so that they fit better? Second, the car has a restraint cable that runs from the front of the bell housing back to the rear engine mount, but did not have the engine mounting tie rod that traverses a similar path. I bought one to install, but now am wondering if the car simply needs one or the other. Thoughts? Finally I have to once again sing the praises of J&B epoxy weld. The radiator has little bushing protrusions, bottom and top, where rubber bushings attach so that the radiator is "cushioned" when you bolt it down. One of the bushings on the bottom was rusted off, so I found a similar size bushing, drilled out the old one, and the new one is held in place rock-solid with J&B. So far, J&B, PB Blaster, and Gummout have helped me solve just about every problem I've run into, excepting stripped bolt holes which I'm beginning to think were an option on the 1980 models... And just for a chuckle, I spent at least 20 minutes today trying to re-install the rear engine mount -- upside down.... Well, heck, it was dark underneath the car! Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 05:11:41 2000 From: "Don Sforza" To: "Triumph List" , Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 07:12:27 -0500 Subject: Items on e-bay Thought these would be of interest to the groups. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=511260827&r=0& t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=975899247&indexURL=0&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=511224073&r=0& t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=975898168&indexURL=0&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=510924035&r=0& t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=975888483&indexURL=0&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=510899734&r=0& t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=975887482&indexURL=0&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=508801979&r=0& t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=975711742&indexURL=0&rd=1 Don Sforza dsforza@megahits.com KA1WV 3/4 Morgan Group 1966 '4/4' V Competition B1290 Connecticut Triumph Register 1974 Triumph TR6 CF25689U From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 08:41:11 2000 From: "J Arzt" To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 09:40:05 -0600 Subject: British vehicle importation to US OK, folks, here's the deal - Being the sick individual I am, I've purchased a 1974 Commer Autosleeper from England. (visualize a VW pop-top camper) I've made transport arrangements, and it looks like it should hit the port at Baltimore on Jan 1,2001. My question is has anyone out there imported a vehicle from the UK before? Any problems, pitfalls, etc? I have the DOT forms, and it's exempt due to age. Same goes for the EPA. Everything looks OK so far, I just need to figure out how they can stash the spares inside the vehicle!! Any input? (Other than comments regarding my degree of sanity/insanity) Jon Arzt 1958 Hillman Minx convertible 1961 Humber Super Snipe 1966 Humber Super Snipe estate 1966 Sunbeam Alpine 1967 Sunbeam Funwagon 1974 Commer Autosleeper _____________________________________________________________________________________ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 09:36:36 2000 From: "Mark the Shark" To: "J Arzt" , Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 11:35:49 -0500 Subject: Re: British vehicle importation to US I'll be very curious to find out how this goes? From the information I gathered trying to import a car from Canada the safety standards are waved after 25 years but EPA never expires. EPA documents for importing cars specifies that a vehicle made from 1968 on must comply with the emissions standards for the year of manufacture. I'm looking at importing a Triumph Dolomite from Europe so I'd be interested to find how this plays out for you? Did you use a import broker? Mark Ascherl 1981 TR8 DHC FI Raleigh, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: "J Arzt" To: Cc: ; Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 10:40 AM Subject: British vehicle importation to US > OK, folks, here's the deal - > > Being the sick individual I am, I've purchased a 1974 Commer > Autosleeper from England. (visualize a VW pop-top camper) I've made > transport arrangements, and it looks like it should hit the port at > Baltimore on Jan 1,2001. My question is has anyone out there imported a > vehicle from the UK before? Any problems, pitfalls, etc? > > I have the DOT forms, and it's exempt due to age. Same goes for the > EPA. Everything looks OK so far, I just need to figure out how they can > stash the spares inside the vehicle!! > > Any input? (Other than comments regarding my degree of sanity/insanity) > > > Jon Arzt > > 1958 Hillman Minx convertible > 1961 Humber Super Snipe > 1966 Humber Super Snipe estate > 1966 Sunbeam Alpine > 1967 Sunbeam Funwagon > 1974 Commer Autosleeper > > > ____________________________________________________________________________ _________ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 12:32:55 2000 From: "Jim & Ann Brown" To: "J Arzt" , Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 13:17:13 -0600 Subject: Re: British vehicle importation to US Jon, If you have not done so already, I would strongly recommend that you retain a customs broker/freight forwarder experienced in the import of cars to see your car through the port of entry. There should be a multitude of such in Baltimore. When I imported my lbc a few years ago this professional's fee, $85, as a portion of the total cost was truly minimal. He had the car delivered to my door the day the ship arrived, after clearing all the several requisite US and state agencies, including paying customs duty to my account. If you use an expert you do not need to worry about all the details Not the least of his services was meeting the ship with approved paperwork in hand so as to keep my new dear out of the hands of longshoremen and other upright citizens on the waterfront. . You mustn't forget that you will eventually have to deal with state authorities as well as federal. I might mention a problem which sometimes crops up, perhaps in only certain states, perhaps only when your local DMV is staffed with illiterates. If the latter is not true in your case thank the good Lord, as you have stumbled upon an exception to the general rule. In most states of what was once the Union, when you walk into your local DMV to register your Commer you may expect to be asked to hand over "the Title." England has no such animal. You may have a document entitled "Vehicle Registration Document V5," which has all caps bold print reciting "THE REGISTERED KEEPER IS NOT NECESSARILY THE LEGAL OWNER." That is, this document says on its face that it is not proof that you own your Commer. Welcome to a new world of bureaucrats "exercising their discretion." (Sound familiar?) In my case this document was not accepted by the local DMV in the place of a title, so I typed up a Bill of Sale on my trusty computer, using great gobs of fancy fonts and British-sounding words, and they accepted this after it was signed by the seller. In your case you may have no problem, and I hope so, but if you do it is best that you have an idea it is coming so that you might be prepared to deal with it somehow. Lastly, if you have not done so you might be wise to purchase marine insurance covering voyage across the pond. You will find that it is quite reasonable. This web site may be of interest: http://www.customs.ustreas.gov/imp-exp2/informal/car.htm All the very best to you and yours for the Holiday Season, Jim Brown Houston ----- Original Message ----- From: "J Arzt" To: Cc: ; Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 9:40 AM Subject: British vehicle importation to US > OK, folks, here's the deal - > > Being the sick individual I am, I've purchased a 1974 Commer > Autosleeper from England. (visualize a VW pop-top camper) I've made > transport arrangements, and it looks like it should hit the port at > Baltimore on Jan 1,2001. My question is has anyone out there imported a > vehicle from the UK before? Any problems, pitfalls, etc? > > I have the DOT forms, and it's exempt due to age. Same goes for the > EPA. Everything looks OK so far, I just need to figure out how they can > stash the spares inside the vehicle!! > > Any input? (Other than comments regarding my degree of sanity/insanity) > > > Jon Arzt > > 1958 Hillman Minx convertible > 1961 Humber Super Snipe > 1966 Humber Super Snipe estate > 1966 Sunbeam Alpine > 1967 Sunbeam Funwagon > 1974 Commer Autosleeper From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 12:41:55 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 14:39:23 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#31b I'm going to re-attach the driveshaft to the transmission tonight. Fortunately the paint marks I made are still there, so I can line up the two parts like they were before. But I seem to remember something about which way the nuts and bolts should be installed -- ie should the bolt heads be on the engine side, and the nuts on the rear-end side, or the reverse, or does it matter? I seem to remember it had something to do with the way bolts tighten, and the way the shaft spins... Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 Convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 13:45:49 2000 From: "J Arzt" To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 14:44:19 -0600 Subject: Re: British vehicle importation to US Well, upon several suggestions, I've talked to a customs broker in Baltimore, and for another $125.00 they'll take care of the paperwork. Not a bad deal, I suppose. All this for a van that I only paid 100 pounds for!!! LOL Jon Arzt >Jon, > >If you have not done so already, I would strongly recommend that you retain >a customs broker/freight forwarder experienced in the import of cars to see >your car through the port of entry. There should be a multitude of such in >Baltimore. > _____________________________________________________________________________________ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 14:50:40 2000 From: Bill To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 11:51:10 -1000 Subject: MG throwing oil Hi all, I've got a 76 MG midget that started spitting out a lot of oil from the valve cover through the Weber Carburetor. When I capped off the line from the valve cover, oil finds it way out through seals around the engine. It's as if the oil pressure is set too high. There is a oil pressure relief valve on this car. Could that be the problem, or is it the oil pump itself. Maybe the oil pump strainer is clogged. Anyway, maybe someone out there has experienced a similar experience and could help me out.......... Thanks....... Bill -- From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 14:59:40 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: bport@pixi.com Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 13:59:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: MG throwing oil Check your PCV valve- could be block causing pressure buildup. Roland > > Hi all, > I've got a 76 MG midget that started spitting out a lot of > oil from the valve cover through the Weber Carburetor. When I capped > off the line from the valve cover, oil finds it way out through seals > around the engine. It's as if the oil pressure is set too high. > There is a oil pressure relief valve on this car. Could that be the > problem, or is it the oil pump itself. Maybe the oil pump strainer > is clogged. Anyway, maybe someone out there has experienced a > similar experience and could help me out.......... Thanks....... > Bill > -- From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 16:40:57 2000 From: "J.E.A.Rich" To: Bill , Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 16:36:00 -0700 Subject: Re: MG throwing oil Bill, The first thing I would do is change the oil filter. It sounds to me that it is plugged as it has its own relief valve. If that doesn't solve the problem let us know. Cheers, "Bob". > From: Bill > Reply-To: Bill > Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 11:51:10 -1000 > To: british-cars@autox.team.net > Subject: MG throwing oil > > Hi all, > I've got a 76 MG midget that started spitting out a lot of > oil from the valve cover through the Weber Carburetor. When I capped > off the line from the valve cover, oil finds it way out through seals > around the engine. It's as if the oil pressure is set too high. > There is a oil pressure relief valve on this car. Could that be the > problem, or is it the oil pump itself. Maybe the oil pump strainer > is clogged. Anyway, maybe someone out there has experienced a > similar experience and could help me out.......... Thanks....... > Bill > -- From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 17:51:24 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 19:48:02 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#33 Do you have any idea how much I hate learning valuable lessons these days? I was so smug at having gotten the transmission/engine back into the car this weekend that I was unbearable. Well, it caught up with me. Tonight I discovered that the slave cylinder push rod that acutates the clutch lever was jammed against the rear engine plate when we reassembled engine/transmission, and like an idiot I didn't check to make sure it was free before dropping said engine/transmission back into the car. I finally managed to pop it loose, and of course the whole clutch lever assembly popped off the fulcrum pin inside the bell housing.... Stifling a tremendous urge to either throw up or set the car on fire, I am attempting to calmly determine my next course of action. Needless to say the transmission will have to come back out to see if anything was damaged, and to reset the clutch lever. Surprisingly the push rod doesn't appear bent of damaged. I'm thinking that taking out the transmission by itself is preferable over pulling engine/transmission back out again. I have a floor jack that I can support the transmission with, and jack stands I can use to lift the rear of the car up high. All in all a terribly disappointing evening. And to think that all I was going to do tonight was re-attach the speedometer cable. Suggestions for proceeding, and locations of discount liquor stores most welcome at this point. Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 18:01:11 2000 From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" To: , , , Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 19:00:26 -0600 Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#33 best advice my father ever gave me... "Boy... if ya got a girl, or ya got a car, ya got trouble..." WST ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 6:48 PM Subject: TR7 BFH#33 > Do you have any idea how much I hate learning valuable lessons these days? I > was so smug at having gotten the transmission/engine back into the car this > weekend that I was unbearable. > > Well, it caught up with me. Tonight I discovered that the slave cylinder > push rod that acutates the clutch lever was jammed against the rear engine > plate when we reassembled engine/transmission, and like an idiot I didn't > check to make sure it was free before dropping said engine/transmission back > into the car. > > I finally managed to pop it loose, and of course the whole clutch lever > assembly popped off the fulcrum pin inside the bell housing.... > > Stifling a tremendous urge to either throw up or set the car on fire, I am > attempting to calmly determine my next course of action. Needless to say the > transmission will have to come back out to see if anything was damaged, and > to reset the clutch lever. Surprisingly the push rod doesn't appear bent of > damaged. > > I'm thinking that taking out the transmission by itself is preferable over > pulling engine/transmission back out again. I have a floor jack that I can > support the transmission with, and jack stands I can use to lift the rear of > the car up high. > > All in all a terribly disappointing evening. And to think that all I was > going to do tonight was re-attach the speedometer cable. > > Suggestions for proceeding, and locations of discount liquor stores most > welcome at this point. > > > Bruce > 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible > Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 18:15:43 2000 From: "J.E.A.Rich" To: , , , Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 18:14:12 -0700 Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#33 Bruce, As an M.G. person I find it difficult to understand why anyboby would even buy, let alone attempt to fix, a Triumph younger than a TR-6 but I truly admire your courage in writing of all your trials and tribulations. All of us who have been sitting back and reading of your misfortunes know that similar things have happened to us but we're seldom prepared to discuss them. Good luck in the days to come and tell us when the your book is about to hit the market. It'll be a best seller. Cheers, "Bob". -- Remember that some days you may be the pigeon, but other days you will be the statue. > From: Eganb@aol.com > Reply-To: Eganb@aol.com > Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 19:48:02 EST > To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, > tr8@mercury.lcs.mit.edu > Subject: TR7 BFH#33 > > Do you have any idea how much I hate learning valuable lessons these days? I > was so smug at having gotten the transmission/engine back into the car this > weekend that I was unbearable. > > Well, it caught up with me. Tonight I discovered that the slave cylinder > push rod that acutates the clutch lever was jammed against the rear engine > plate when we reassembled engine/transmission, and like an idiot I didn't > check to make sure it was free before dropping said engine/transmission back > into the car. > > I finally managed to pop it loose, and of course the whole clutch lever > assembly popped off the fulcrum pin inside the bell housing.... > > Stifling a tremendous urge to either throw up or set the car on fire, I am > attempting to calmly determine my next course of action. Needless to say the > transmission will have to come back out to see if anything was damaged, and > to reset the clutch lever. Surprisingly the push rod doesn't appear bent of > damaged. > > I'm thinking that taking out the transmission by itself is preferable over > pulling engine/transmission back out again. I have a floor jack that I can > support the transmission with, and jack stands I can use to lift the rear of > the car up high. > > All in all a terribly disappointing evening. And to think that all I was > going to do tonight was re-attach the speedometer cable. > > Suggestions for proceeding, and locations of discount liquor stores most > welcome at this point. > > > Bruce > 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible > Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 19:11:20 2000 From: "John D'Agostino" To: "Bill" Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 21:09:24 -0500 Subject: Re: MG throwing oil Hi Bill What line did you cap off? Not the crankcase ventilation I hope. You need to maintain a slight vacuum to pull fresh air through the block. You could be building excessive pressure causing oil to seep out. Although I'm not too familiar with the Midget crankcase ventilation system, you may want to check it out. John ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill" To: Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 4:51 PM Subject: MG throwing oil > Hi all, > I've got a 76 MG midget that started spitting out a lot of > oil from the valve cover through the Weber Carburetor. When I capped > off the line from the valve cover, oil finds it way out through seals > around the engine. It's as if the oil pressure is set too high. > There is a oil pressure relief valve on this car. Could that be the > problem, or is it the oil pump itself. Maybe the oil pump strainer > is clogged. Anyway, maybe someone out there has experienced a > similar experience and could help me out.......... Thanks....... > Bill > -- From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 19:21:01 2000 From: "rynerpj" To: "Bill" , Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 19:20:32 -0700 Subject: RE: MG throwing oil Bill, The problem is not oil pressure but crankcase pressure. I had the problem once when the PCV valve was installed backwards and the crankcase was being pressurized. Have you done work on the car lately? If not, and the problem is recent, I would look for problems with the block either not being able to breath (PCV valve or vent tube clogged) or excess pressure entering the block (ring, valve or head problem). Good luck Pete -----Original Message----- From: owner-british-cars@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-british-cars@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bill Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 2:51 PM To: british-cars@autox.team.net Subject: MG throwing oil Hi all, I've got a 76 MG midget that started spitting out a lot of oil from the valve cover through the Weber Carburetor. When I capped off the line from the valve cover, oil finds it way out through seals around the engine. It's as if the oil pressure is set too high. There is a oil pressure relief valve on this car. Could that be the problem, or is it the oil pump itself. Maybe the oil pump strainer is clogged. Anyway, maybe someone out there has experienced a similar experience and could help me out.......... Thanks....... Bill -- From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 21:04:18 2000 From: Britcarcom@aol.com To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 23:02:07 EST Subject: RE: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE It *IS* funny as a response to an e-mail I got SIX copies of ... but ya know, Colin, some of us out here don't appreciate "gay" jokes and homophobic slurs. Not just one, mind you, but TWO. best, jv. John Voelcker Colin Cobb writes: > Subject: RE: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE > Official US Response to Independence Revocation Notice To the Governing > Bodies of the United Kingdom: From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Mon Nov 27 22:57:11 2000 From: "Mark the Shark" To: "J.E.A.Rich" , , , Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 00:59:21 -0500 Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#33 Having been a MG person most of my life I can tell you the first time I drove a TR8 I fell in love and I knew I had to have one. My very lovely MGB went up for sale and was sold in three days and I purchased my 81 TR8. Regrets, absolutely none. The TR8 is more comfortable, better handling and a lot faster than my MGB. The TR7 doesn't have the power but certainly has all the other elements. MG people (lots of Triumph as well) may turn their noses up and say the car isn't a classic but these are the people that have never driven one. Mark Ascherl 1981 TR8 DHC FI Raleigh, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: "J.E.A.Rich" To: ; ; ; Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 8:14 PM Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#33 > Bruce, > > As an M.G. person I find it difficult to understand why anyboby would even > buy, let alone attempt to fix, a Triumph younger than a TR-6 but I truly > admire your courage in writing of all your trials and tribulations. All of > us who have been sitting back and reading of your misfortunes know that > similar things have happened to us but we're seldom prepared to discuss > them. > > Good luck in the days to come and tell us when the your book is about to hit > the market. It'll be a best seller. > > Cheers, "Bob". > -- > Remember that some days you may be the pigeon, but other days you will be > the statue. > > > > From: Eganb@aol.com > > Reply-To: Eganb@aol.com > > Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 19:48:02 EST > > To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, > > tr8@mercury.lcs.mit.edu > > Subject: TR7 BFH#33 > > > > Do you have any idea how much I hate learning valuable lessons these days? I > > was so smug at having gotten the transmission/engine back into the car this > > weekend that I was unbearable. > > > > Well, it caught up with me. Tonight I discovered that the slave cylinder > > push rod that acutates the clutch lever was jammed against the rear engine > > plate when we reassembled engine/transmission, and like an idiot I didn't > > check to make sure it was free before dropping said engine/transmission back > > into the car. > > > > I finally managed to pop it loose, and of course the whole clutch lever > > assembly popped off the fulcrum pin inside the bell housing.... > > > > Stifling a tremendous urge to either throw up or set the car on fire, I am > > attempting to calmly determine my next course of action. Needless to say the > > transmission will have to come back out to see if anything was damaged, and > > to reset the clutch lever. Surprisingly the push rod doesn't appear bent of > > damaged. > > > > I'm thinking that taking out the transmission by itself is preferable over > > pulling engine/transmission back out again. I have a floor jack that I can > > support the transmission with, and jack stands I can use to lift the rear of > > the car up high. > > > > All in all a terribly disappointing evening. And to think that all I was > > going to do tonight was re-attach the speedometer cable. > > > > Suggestions for proceeding, and locations of discount liquor stores most > > welcome at this point. > > > > > > Bruce > > 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible > > Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 28 01:37:33 2000 From: Paul Garside To: "'british-cars@autox.team.net'" , Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 00:35:42 -0800 Subject: commer camper Good for you, Jon, These are lovely period pieces. Very slow, but economical. I just hope it isn't too rusty! Glad to hear you're preserving one. Paul - ----- Original Message ----- From: "J Arzt" <> To: Cc: ; Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 9:40 AM Subject: British vehicle importation to US > OK, folks, here's the deal - > > Being the sick individual I am, I've purchased a 1974 Commer > Autosleeper from England. (visualize a VW pop-top camper) I've made > transport arrangements, and it looks like it should hit the port at > Baltimore on Jan 1,2001. My question is has anyone out there imported a > vehicle from the UK before? Any problems, pitfalls, etc? > > I have the DOT forms, and it's exempt due to age. Same goes for the > EPA. Everything looks OK so far, I just need to figure out how they can > stash the spares inside the vehicle!! > > Any input? (Other than comments regarding my degree of sanity/insanity) > > > Jon Arzt > > 1958 Hillman Minx convertible > 1961 Humber Super Snipe > 1966 Humber Super Snipe estate > 1966 Sunbeam Alpine > 1967 Sunbeam Funwagon > 1974 Commer Autosleeper ------------------------------ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 28 08:45:12 2000 From: "greg dyche" To: "J.E.A.Rich" , , , Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 07:45:43 -0800 Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#33 Bruce, Vomiting and Arson are both ancient and accepted activities when doing LBC work. NOBODY ever put their car back together the first time whithout taking it back apart a time or two. Relax, give thanks for the many valuable lessons you have been given the opportunity to learn. Thanks for the laughs Greg 52 MGTD 74 FJ40 > > 74 FJ55 > > Stifling a tremendous urge to either throw up or set the car on fire, I am > > attempting to calmly determine my next course of action. Needless to say the > > transmission will have to come back out to see if anything was damaged, and > > to reset the clutch lever. Surprisingly the push rod doesn't appear bent of > > damaged. > > > > I'm thinking that taking out the transmission by itself is preferable over > > pulling engine/transmission back out again. I have a floor jack that I can > > support the transmission with, and jack stands I can use to lift the rear of > > the car up high. > > > > All in all a terribly disappointing evening. And to think that all I was > > going to do tonight was re-attach the speedometer cable. > > > > Suggestions for proceeding, and locations of discount liquor stores most > > welcome at this point. > > > > > > Bruce > > 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible > > Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 28 09:18:22 2000 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: alpines@autox.team.net, tigers@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 08:15:08 -0800 Subject: RX7 wiring diagram needed Anyone out there happen to have a 1979-82/83 Mazda RX7 wiring diagram that they could send me the part on the charging system? Thanks. Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 28 09:59:46 2000 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: msmall@roanoke.infi.net Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 08:55:54 -0800 Subject: Re: RX7 wiring diagram needed Unfortunately I wish that was the answer, but I know it was working fine before I switched alternators. That's all I changed in the electrical system. So, either the alternator does not really wire like the Nissan one did - and as both shops have told me it wires, or there is something else that is shot. This new alternator is from a Mazda RX7. Is there any chance in the world that the rotary engines spun the other way or that it makes any difference even if it did to the functioning of the alternator? I've had both answers! The oddest thing is still that as I turn things on - car 15 amps, headlights 10 amps, OD few amps, the ammeter keeps going up and never comes back down. When I turn on the headlights with the car off, the ammeter sure doesn't show a 10 amp drain - if anything it doesn't budge. But, I haven't tried it with the ignition on, but the engine off. Jay Marc James Small on 11/28/2000 08:46:52 AM To: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com cc: alpines@autox.team.net, tigers@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net Subject: Re: RX7 wiring diagram needed Jay The problem with your ammeter may just be that the wires to the meter are reversed. If you converted your car from positive to negative ground and at that point switched the ammeter wiring and THEN replaced the ammeter with a negative-ground meter, you might have to flip the wires to the meter back again. Just a thought. Marc msmall@roanoke.infi.net FAX: +540/343-7315 Cha robh bas fir gun ghras fir! From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 28 10:07:26 2000 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: msmall@roanoke.infi.net Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 09:02:32 -0800 Subject: Re: RX7 wiring diagram not needed I just called a RX7 specialty shop. They tell me the wiring is the same. He actually suggested not looping the S to the B, but sending the S to keyed power - so it's not pulling power even when the car is off. But, that doesn't affect the functioning of the car while driving. Now I'm still stuck. From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Tue Nov 28 11:43:08 2000 From: Roland Dudley To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 10:42:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: Lower MGB Steering Shaft Bushing- Again Regarding an earlier comment about meticulously assembling something only to find that you had screwed up and had to disassemble it and start over. Been there, done that A LOT over the years, and not just relative to British cars. Which brings up the question of whether or not I need to go through this process once again. A number of months back I posted a question about replacing my Cobra's lower steering column shaft bushing. This bushing is made of felt and, as it happens, is interchangeable with an MGB's lower steering column shaft bushing. What bothered me than and bothers me now is how tight this bushing is. I followed a recommendation someone posted and soaked the bushing in an oil/graphite mixture for a couple of days. For good measures I also smeared the shaft with a liberal coating of assembly grease, which is a very slippery combination of grease and graphite, before inserting the shaft in the column. While I can turn the wheel, it is extremely tight. Once the shaft is connected to the steering rack, I'm sure the wheel will be even harder to turn. So, I'm at the point of wondering, should I a) remove the column/shaft assembly from the car and do whatever is necessary to loosen it up, or b) leave it as is and assume that the bushing will loosen on its own over time. I assume other 'B owners have replaced these bushings. Were they super tight initially, then loosened up over time? Thanks for your help. Roland From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 29 09:12:28 2000 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: alpines@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 08:04:16 -0800 Subject: Ammeter cured Yes, it was user error. I had the ammeter wired incorrrectly. Oddly enough, the ammeter has been wired the same way for 8 years and always seemed to read ok (going above 30 on start up, dropping down to a little over 0 after a few minutes). Then when I swapped in the new alternator, with no change to the wiring, pow, it started reading odd - or actually correctly for the way it was wired. I have no answer why all those years it wasn't reading "correctly" for the way it was wired. After this relief, I really don't know that I care! I'm just glad that I don't have to worry anymore that I'm over charging my battery and it's about to blow up behind my head. Thanks to all who helped. Jay From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Wed Nov 29 09:35:03 2000 From: "Glen Wilson" To: "British Car Mailing List" Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 11:32:15 -0500 Subject: Triumph Stags in USA Can anyone give me an authoritative (or at least somewhat reliable) estimate of how many Triumph Stags survive in the USA? Glen From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 30 00:03:48 2000 From: "Ade + Lamb Chop" To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 07:01:08 -0000 Subject: Info on Honda engined Rover x16 Hi All, If anybody has any info on the 1600cc Honda engine fitted to pre 1995 cars I would be grateful. Thanx, Ade ICQ. 75653589 www.adesite.co.uk From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 30 04:11:02 2000 From: "Fred Thomas" To: Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 06:37:03 -0500 Subject: petrol Yesterday while Xmas shopping in Fredericksburg VA, I had the need for petrol, 1.27 per gallon (Citgo), 1.29 (Exxon), a little lower is fine with me, like 1.00 a gallon would be fine. "FT" From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 30 09:24:09 2000 From: HLYDOC@aol.com To: vafred@erols.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 11:21:22 EST Subject: Re: petrol You are the luckie one we still got $2.00 per gal and up out here in calif. BUT we can still drive with the tops down in the begining of december. David Nock President/Service Manager British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton Calif. 95205 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com Visit our new web site at BritishCarSpecialists.com ======================================== Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 30 10:28:57 2000 From: Eganb@aol.com To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 12:24:48 EST Subject: TR7 BFH#34 The clutch saga continues. I managed to separate the transmission from the engine with said engine still in car. however the minute i got it off i realized there was no way in heck i could line it back up for re-installation. so, what the heck, we pulled the engine out, which of course is much easier when the tranny isn't attached. then i sat in the engine bay and man-handled the transmission up and out as well. as suspected, the clutch lever had popped off the fulcrum pin. in retrospect, when the rod was jammed against the engine backplate, i should have used a screwdriver to push slowly against the clutch lever to release the pressure on the rod. by popping the rod free with hammer and screwdriver, the pressure plate probably pushed the throwout bearing back quickly, causing the clutch lever to pop off since it didn't have any resistance from the clutch rod, since the slave cylinder wasn't attached. so, the plan is to reattach tranny and engine tonight and try slipping it back in again. And I'll double check the clutch parts to make sure I didn't leave packing clips or something else in there!..... Bruce 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 Convertible Chapel Hill, NC From british-cars-owner@autox.team.net Thu Nov 30 14:26:52 2000 From: "Terry Looft" To: , , , Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 16:25:31 -0500 Subject: Re: TR7 BFH#34 How much do you think you can get for the movie rights to your story? ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2000 12:24 PM Subject: TR7 BFH#34 > The clutch saga continues. I managed to separate the transmission from the > engine with said engine still in car. however the minute i got it off i > realized there was no way in heck i could line it back up for > re-installation. so, what the heck, we pulled the engine out, which of > course is much easier when the tranny isn't attached. > > then i sat in the engine bay and man-handled the transmission up and out as > well. as suspected, the clutch lever had popped off the fulcrum pin. in > retrospect, when the rod was jammed against the engine backplate, i should > have used a screwdriver to push slowly against the clutch lever to release > the pressure on the rod. by popping the rod free with hammer and > screwdriver, the pressure plate probably pushed the throwout bearing back > quickly, causing the clutch lever to pop off since it didn't have any > resistance from the clutch rod, since the slave cylinder wasn't attached. > > so, the plan is to reattach tranny and engine tonight and try slipping it > back in again. And I'll double check the clutch parts to make sure I didn't > leave packing clips or something else in there!..... > > Bruce > 1980 Inca Yellow TR7 Convertible > Chapel Hill, NC