From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 1 13:30:07 2003 From: CANISDOG@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 15:27:35 EST Subject: Dash Nut Tool Heh gang, What's up with this homemade tool going for this much? Am I mistaken or did I hear from Rick at SS that these were available through Snap-On tools for this application. Click here: eBay Motors item 1875650925 (Ends Jan-02-03 10:11:20 PST ) - SUNBEAM TIGER DASH NUT SPANNER TOOL Paul Colorado (nutless) From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 1 13:32:38 2003 From: CANISDOG@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 15:30:07 EST Subject: Dash Nut Tool (again) As a side note, I have to give this guy credit. Click on his Sellers Other Auctions and you will see he is selling these to just about every British Car group. And making a "killing" I might add. Paul From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 1 13:36:30 2003 From: CANISDOG@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 15:34:01 EST Subject: Dash Nut Tool (again and again) BTW, If any of you are bidding on these, they are only going for about $15.00 under MGB. But heh, they are going for $45.00 under Morgan!! I love E-Bay!! Paul From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 1 15:29:17 2003 From: PApple16@aol.com To: CANISDOG@aol.com, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 17:26:48 EST Subject: Re: Dash Nut Tool have 1 in my tool box (actually 2 different sizes) snap-on and MAC have been selling them for years Paul in RI From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 1 17:07:06 2003 From: Russell Maddock To: "Alpine List (E-mail)" Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 10:05:06 +1000 Subject: Sigh! I'm back at work today for the first time since the holiday period. I was driving to work this morning in my modern, feeling refreshed and not unhappy to be back at the office, when I spot a pale blue Mk I Tiger - top down and blasting down the road on a beautiful summer's day. Now I'm depressed!! Oh, to be out of here and driving the Alpine again! :-) R. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 1 17:30:20 2003 From: chuck nicodemus To: Russell Maddock Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 16:35:36 -0800 Subject: Re: Sigh! Russ, Just think . You are very lucky just to see an auto with the top down. In the Great North West in the USA it is cold clammy and wet most of the time. And just think too, you could be doing that too............................IF YOU WERN"T WORKING!!!! So cheer up and don't rub it in ,, I'm cold just thinking about going out.. Cheers to you and yours. Chuck in Portland, Oregon. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 1 17:58:55 2003 From: Russell Maddock To: "Alpine List (E-mail)" Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 10:56:57 +1000 Subject: RE: Sigh! Okay, point taken! It's easy to forget that not everybody can use their cars all year round. :-) R. > -----Original Message----- > From: chuck nicodemus [SMTP:armorseal@spiretech.com] > Sent: 2 January 2003 10:36 AM > To: Russell Maddock > Cc: Alpine List (E-mail) > Subject: Re: Sigh! > > Russ, Just think . You are very lucky just to see an auto with the top > down. In the Great North West in the USA it is cold clammy and wet most > of the time. And just think too, you could be doing that > too............................IF YOU WERN"T WORKING!!!! > So cheer up and don't rub it in ,, I'm cold just thinking about going > out.. > Cheers to you and yours. > Chuck in Portland, Oregon. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 2 07:01:13 2003 From: "Eddie Donovan" To: "Russell Maddock" , Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 08:58:45 -0500 Subject: RE: Sigh! Russ, It's minus 17 celsius here today or about 1 above fahrenheit. I just can't fit behind the wheel with my parka on this time of year! Eddie Donovan (AlpineII) Carlsbad Springs, Ontario Series II, 1961 - B9108405 LRX - At the paint shop Series II, 1961 - B9104430 ODLR - Future project SAOCA Member #20 > -----Original Message----- > From: chuck nicodemus [SMTP:armorseal@spiretech.com] > Sent: 2 January 2003 10:36 AM > To: Russell Maddock > Cc: Alpine List (E-mail) > Subject: Re: Sigh! > > Russ, Just think . You are very lucky just to see an auto with the top > down. In the Great North West in the USA it is cold clammy and wet most > of the time. And just think too, you could be doing that > too............................IF YOU WERN"T WORKING!!!! > So cheer up and don't rub it in ,, I'm cold just thinking about going > out.. > Cheers to you and yours. > Chuck in Portland, Oregon. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 2 07:20:19 2003 From: "lauri lehtinen" To: "Eddie Donovan" , Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 16:29:45 +0200 Subject: Re: Sigh! Minus 25 celsius in Helsinki. Northern Scandinavia is even colder. Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eddie Donovan" To: "Russell Maddock" ; "Alpine List (E-mail)" Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 3:58 PM Subject: RE: Sigh! > Russ, > It's minus 17 celsius here today or about 1 above fahrenheit. I just can't fit behind the wheel with my parka on this time of year! > > Eddie Donovan (AlpineII) > Carlsbad Springs, Ontario > Series II, 1961 - B9108405 LRX - At the paint shop > Series II, 1961 - B9104430 ODLR - Future project > SAOCA Member #20 > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: chuck nicodemus [SMTP:armorseal@spiretech.com] > > Sent: 2 January 2003 10:36 AM > > To: Russell Maddock > > Cc: Alpine List (E-mail) > > Subject: Re: Sigh! > > > > Russ, Just think . You are very lucky just to see an auto with the top > > down. In the Great North West in the USA it is cold clammy and wet most > > of the time. And just think too, you could be doing that > > too............................IF YOU WERN"T WORKING!!!! > > So cheer up and don't rub it in ,, I'm cold just thinking about going > > out.. > > Cheers to you and yours. > > Chuck in Portland, Oregon. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 2 08:49:50 2003 From: "Thomas Wiencek" To: "'Russell & Neola'" , Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 09:47:17 -0600 Subject: RE: Round headlight rings I have a Series V parts car with chrome headlight rings from some other car on it. If anyone is interested, I can take a picture. Tom -----Original Message----- From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Russell & Neola Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 5:02 AM To: alpines@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Round headlight rings If, like me, you're too cheap to fork out for the pukka Sunbeam ones, you'll have to settle for rims that don't follow the line of the body quite right. I believe the ones on my car came from a Daimler 250 V8/Jaguar Mk II. Morris Minor, Mini & MGB would be worth investigating. Russ ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 9:36 AM Subject: Round headlight rings > To those of you out there that have put on the round style headlight rings: > > Which car's rings did you use? What else fits the Lucas "usually lights" > style bucket? > > > Gary From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 2 09:21:47 2003 From: Jan Eyerman To: "Eddie Donovan" , Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 11:19:14 -0500 Subject: OFF TOPIC Have you considered moving to Carlsbad, CA??? Much warmer there all year long! I will be going there on a visit in two weeks. Jan "Eddie Donovan" wrote: Russ, It's minus 17 celsius here today or about 1 above fahrenheit. I just can't fit behind the wheel with my parka on this time of year! Eddie Donovan (AlpineII) Carlsbad Springs, Ontario Series II, 1961 - B9108405 LRX - At the paint shop Series II, 1961 - B9104430 ODLR - Future project SAOCA Member #20 > -----Original Message----- > From: chuck nicodemus [SMTP:armorseal@spiretech.com] > Sent: 2 January 2003 10:36 AM > To: Russell Maddock > Cc: Alpine List (E-mail) > Subject: Re: Sigh! > > Russ, Just think . You are very lucky just to see an auto with the top > down. In the Great North West in the USA it is cold clammy and wet most > of the time. And just think too, you could be doing that > too............................IF YOU WERN"T WORKING!!!! > So cheer up and don't rub it in ,, I'm cold just thinking about going > out.. > Cheers to you and yours. > Chuck in Portland, Oregon. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 2 09:42:52 2003 From: "Dan Eiland" To: "Eddie Donovan" , Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 09:40:27 -0700 Subject: Re: Sigh! Should get up close to 60 f today. Unfortunately my car is on my rotisserie undergoing a complete restoration. Dan Eiland ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eddie Donovan" To: "Russell Maddock" ; "Alpine List (E-mail)" Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 6:58 AM Subject: RE: Sigh! | Russ, | It's minus 17 celsius here today or about 1 above fahrenheit. I just can't fit behind the wheel with my parka on this time of year! | | Eddie Donovan (AlpineII) | Carlsbad Springs, Ontario | Series II, 1961 - B9108405 LRX - At the paint shop | Series II, 1961 - B9104430 ODLR - Future project | SAOCA Member #20 | | > -----Original Message----- | > From: chuck nicodemus [SMTP:armorseal@spiretech.com] | > Sent: 2 January 2003 10:36 AM | > To: Russell Maddock | > Cc: Alpine List (E-mail) | > Subject: Re: Sigh! | > | > Russ, Just think . You are very lucky just to see an auto with the top | > down. In the Great North West in the USA it is cold clammy and wet most | > of the time. And just think too, you could be doing that | > too............................IF YOU WERN"T WORKING!!!! | > So cheer up and don't rub it in ,, I'm cold just thinking about going | > out.. | > Cheers to you and yours. | > Chuck in Portland, Oregon. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 2 17:29:23 2003 From: chuck nicodemus To: lauri lehtinen Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 16:34:22 -0800 Subject: Re: Sigh! lauri lehtinen wrote: > Minus 25 celsius in Helsinki. Northern Scandinavia is even colder. > > Larry How do you even get the computer to work... That is to cold for any one. You guys come to my place. I have a heated garage(68 F) and you could help me work on my Pine. ~(8=) Cheers Chuck From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 2 18:35:37 2003 From: "Louis & Laila" To: Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 18:31:54 -0700 Subject: Re: Round headlight rings Headlight rims off of a MGB, MG Midget, and Nash Metropolitan will all work on an Alpine, to include the buckets themselves. I have seen them firsthand and know. I would imagine that these are the same as a Triumph Spitifire and othe Leyland cars. A close look at cars that raced during the 60's will reveal that many cars used these rims to affect aerodynamics. One examle would be the tiger lemans cars. They are not a perfect fit, and the early Husky or Mk II Tiger rims would appear a lot better, but when the actual parts are not available, they will work and look "almost" right. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Wiencek" To: "'Russell & Neola'" ; Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 8:47 AM Subject: RE: Round headlight rings > I have a Series V parts car with chrome headlight rings from some other > car on it. If anyone is interested, I can take a picture. > Tom > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Russell & Neola > Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 5:02 AM > To: alpines@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: Round headlight rings > > If, like me, you're too cheap to fork out for the pukka Sunbeam ones, > you'll > have to settle for rims that don't follow the line of the body quite > right. > > I believe the ones on my car came from a Daimler 250 V8/Jaguar Mk II. > > Morris Minor, Mini & MGB would be worth investigating. > > Russ > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 9:36 AM > Subject: Round headlight rings > > > > To those of you out there that have put on the round style headlight > rings: > > > > Which car's rings did you use? What else fits the Lucas "usually > lights" > > style bucket? > > > > > > Gary From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 2 18:38:18 2003 From: "Louis & Laila" To: "Alpine List \(E-mail\)" Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 18:34:37 -0700 Subject: Re: Sigh! 75 deg F here in Yuma today. I drove my series 3 to and from work, just like I always do. ----- Original Message ----- From: "lauri lehtinen" To: "Eddie Donovan" ; "Russell Maddock" ; "Alpine List (E-mail)" Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 7:29 AM Subject: Re: Sigh! > Minus 25 celsius in Helsinki. Northern Scandinavia is even colder. > > Larry > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Eddie Donovan" > To: "Russell Maddock" ; "Alpine List (E-mail)" > > Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 3:58 PM > Subject: RE: Sigh! > > > > Russ, > > It's minus 17 celsius here today or about 1 above fahrenheit. I just can't > fit behind the wheel with my parka on this time of year! > > > > Eddie Donovan (AlpineII) > > Carlsbad Springs, Ontario > > Series II, 1961 - B9108405 LRX - At the paint shop > > Series II, 1961 - B9104430 ODLR - Future project > > SAOCA Member #20 > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: chuck nicodemus [SMTP:armorseal@spiretech.com] > > > Sent: 2 January 2003 10:36 AM > > > To: Russell Maddock > > > Cc: Alpine List (E-mail) > > > Subject: Re: Sigh! > > > > > > Russ, Just think . You are very lucky just to see an auto with the top > > > down. In the Great North West in the USA it is cold clammy and wet most > > > of the time. And just think too, you could be doing that > > > too............................IF YOU WERN"T WORKING!!!! > > > So cheer up and don't rub it in ,, I'm cold just thinking about going > > > out.. > > > Cheers to you and yours. > > > Chuck in Portland, Oregon. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 2 22:35:48 2003 From: RSWiser@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 00:33:06 EST Subject: Seat Parts Well I started working on my Serie IV seats tonight. I found that one seat and the metal covers that go on the sides of the base. The other one is missing the. Does anyone on the list have 1 set of side covers for 1 seat? I took the seat apart and found the problem as to why it would not stay in the position I put it in. In place of a bolt to hold the rachet part, there was a nail. Not much support. I put in new bolts and it works great now. Rob From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 3 08:29:07 2003 From: SunbeamAlpine64@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 10:26:16 EST Subject: Replacement parts - Dizzy Cap & Coil Hi Does anyone have Lucas (or other) reference numbers for replacement distributor cap and coil for use on Series 4 (guess it's the same as a Series 5) thanks Wishing you all a Happy and Peaceful 2003 Mark Series 4 UK From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 3 09:16:42 2003 From: JACranwell@aol.com To: wiencek@anl.gov, rmaddock@petrie.hotkey.net.au, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 11:13:42 EST Subject: Re: Round headlight rings They would be the same as the Triumph GT6/Spitfire, early Mini and many others. Julian. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 3 09:24:07 2003 From: Jarrid Gross To: "Alpine List (E-mail)" Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 08:22:13 -0800 Subject: More virus's Piners, we still have one or more users with a virus. If your ISP is blueyonder.co.uk you better look close at your computer, it is spewing emails with the "W32.Yaha.K@mm" virus. Jarrid Gross From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 3 11:12:40 2003 From: "Eddie Donovan" To: "Alpine List (E-mail)" Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 13:09:56 -0500 Subject: RE: OFF TOPIC Jan, You know that would be like going home for my Alpine. I acquired the car from a gentlemen in La Verne, California, on the North-West outskirts of LA. Hey Chuck! It's snowing like all get-out right now. Going skiing again tonight! Eddie Donovan (AlpineII) Carlsbad Springs, Ontario Series II, 1961 - B9108405 LRX - At the paint shop Series II, 1961 - B9104430 ODLR - Future project SAOCA Member #20 -----Original Message----- From: Jan Eyerman [mailto:jan.eyerman@usa.net] Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 11:19 AM To: Eddie Donovan; Russell Maddock; Alpine List (E-mail) Subject: OFF TOPIC Have you considered moving to Carlsbad, CA??? Much warmer there all year long! I will be going there on a visit in two weeks. Jan "Eddie Donovan" wrote: Russ, It's minus 17 celsius here today or about 1 above fahrenheit. I just can't fit behind the wheel with my parka on this time of year! Eddie Donovan (AlpineII) Carlsbad Springs, Ontario Series II, 1961 - B9108405 LRX - At the paint shop Series II, 1961 - B9104430 ODLR - Future project SAOCA Member #20 > -----Original Message----- > From: chuck nicodemus [SMTP:armorseal@spiretech.com] > Sent: 2 January 2003 10:36 AM > To: Russell Maddock > Cc: Alpine List (E-mail) > Subject: Re: Sigh! > > Russ, Just think . You are very lucky just to see an auto with the top > down. In the Great North West in the USA it is cold clammy and wet most > of the time. And just think too, you could be doing that > too............................IF YOU WERN"T WORKING!!!! > So cheer up and don't rub it in ,, I'm cold just thinking about going > out.. > Cheers to you and yours. > Chuck in Portland, Oregon. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 3 18:13:20 2003 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 17:09:53 -0800 Subject: To Do List I don't know about you guys, but I always keep a project scratch list of things to do on my car. That way I don't forget, for example, to put in the oil drain plug, or tighten the valve on the bottom of the radiator - any more ;-) As of last night at 12:30 am, here is what is NOT crossed off on my list from finally getting the tranny back in: Gas Wash car air in tires I'm thinking I'll be able to accomplish those TOMORROW! Be 'beaming you, Jay From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 3 20:25:57 2003 From: GSTROM99@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 22:23:07 EST Subject: Re: To Do List Send pictures when it's out there running! Hooray! Gary From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 5 15:26:38 2003 From: Jeff Howarth To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 22:16:36 +0000 Subject: TEST - please delete OK you read it - sorry I am testing my email. Happy Sunbeaming -- Jeff Howarth From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 5 16:00:28 2003 From: Steven Silverstein To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 17:56:04 -0500 Subject: non-peaked headlight rims An interesting detail... the Sebring cars had non-peaked headlight rims... you would have thought that Rootes would have used the Husky rim but if you look at the photos closely they don't fit perfectly - definitly not the Husky. Of the two Sebring cars I have looked at one of them had the original rims... and they weren't the Rootes rims. Go figure. Steve From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 5 16:03:28 2003 From: Steven Silverstein To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 17:59:05 -0500 Subject: 1725 crank pulley nut torque I was looking through my shop manual and can't find the torque figure for the crank nut. Any help out there? Steve From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 5 16:16:56 2003 From: ellis838@concentric.net To: "alpines@autox.team.net" Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 18:13:04 -0500 Subject: Re: 1725 crank pulley nut torque Having had problems with this I would like to know what it is really suppose to be myself. The last time I put mine on I used a impact wrench and lock tight or as tight as I could get it.... Jim E Steven Silverstein wrote: >I was looking through my shop manual and can't find >the torque figure for the crank nut. Any help out there? > >Steve > >. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 5 22:48:51 2003 From: "Patrick" To: "Sunbeam Alpines" Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 23:45:25 -0600 Subject: e-bay tonneau cover Anyone know if this tonneau cover: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1876340945 that is for sale on e-bay, will also fit a 1965 Alpine SV? Thanks for your help. Patrick From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 5 23:04:53 2003 From: Victor Hughes To: "alpines@autox.team.net" Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 16:56:21 +1100 Subject: Brake Booster Hi all, Should my S3 (B9205494) have a brake booster? (it doesn't) Thanks Vic From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 6 01:15:36 2003 From: Ryan Lee To: Patrick , Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 01:12:27 -0700 Subject: Re: e-bay tonneau cover I'm not an expert, but going by memory there are too many holes at the front and not enough at the back. It's probably an early-series tonneau, mislabled as a 1964. Or, off a different type of car entirely ;-) Cheers Ryan SV B395000793LRX ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick" To: "Sunbeam Alpines" Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 10:45 PM Subject: e-bay tonneau cover > Anyone know if this tonneau cover: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1876340945 > that is for sale on e-bay, will also fit a 1965 Alpine SV? > > Thanks for your help. > Patrick From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 6 05:24:45 2003 From: JACranwell@aol.com To: hughes@scides.canberra.edu.au, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 07:20:58 EST Subject: Re: Brake Booster Yes. All SIII's should have had a booster. If it's been taken off, and the M/C not replaced, you're likely to have an unpleasantly hard peadal, as the bore should be smaller for the non-boosted set-up. Julian. SIII (with booster) From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 6 09:17:51 2003 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 08:14:12 -0800 Subject: Bond is back... Drove my car a bunch this weekend, and to work today. It's nice to have it back. My three kids were sitting in it taking turns at the steering wheel while I was working on something else. I then noticed that they were each singing the James Bond theme song and pretending they were James Bond. I found that kind of funny as I would never really associate driving the car with James Bond. Sure I know and have seen Dr. No, and repeatedly watched the chase scene. And, I have been all excited about the possible finding and purchase of that Dr. No car. And, I take pride that the first car driven by Bond was an Alpine (even if Rootes forced Broccoli and crew to pay for it). But, somehow, as I grew up, I associated Bond with Aston Martin. Oh well. I guess it's because I've told the kids that Bond drove an Alpine and the only two JB movies they've seen at this point are Dr. No and Goldfinger. I guess I've screwed them up for life! Be beaming you, Jay From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 6 14:42:47 2003 From: Bob Hamilton To: Alpine List Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 17:36:28 -0400 Subject: Russ Maddock's Supreme Sunbeam Page Hi, Sorry to bomb the list, but I have been trying to add a link to Russ' Sunbeam web page to my Sunbeam Talbot (www.sunbeamtalbot.info) web page but the URL hasn't been working for the last few days. Has the location changed? Thanks, Bob ========================================================= Robert (Bob) A.C. Hamilton, Waverley, Nova Scotia, Canada Home Page: www.accesswave.ca/~hamilton Sunbeam Talbots - Alpine, Drophead and Saloon, 1953-1954 Sunbeam Talbot Web Page: www.sunbeamtalbot.info [Stable mates - 1973 Midget and 1968 M-B 280SE] E-Mail: hamilton@accesswave.ca or robertach@ca.inter.net ========================================================= From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 6 15:06:35 2003 From: Victor Hughes To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 08:57:50 +1100 Subject: Re: Brake Booster Thanks Julian, looks like the DPO for once did the right thing and replaced the M/C when the booster was removed as the pedal has never seemed hard to me. Next question is, is it worth going to the trouble of acquiring and fitting a booster? Does it make much difference? All opinions welcome.... Vic JACranwell@aol.com wrote: > Yes. > > All SIII's should have had a booster. If it's been taken off, and the > M/C not replaced, you're likely to have an unpleasantly hard peadal, > as the bore should be smaller for the non-boosted set-up. > > Julian. > > SIII (with booster) From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 6 19:11:30 2003 From: TIGEROOTES@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 21:08:04 EST Subject: Re: Brake Booster Vic, I guarantee if you add a booster back into the system and then drive the car, you will never want to be without it. Many people do not realize that once brake lining gets hot, such as in a racing situation or down a long steep hill, the brake pedal pressure required to stop a car increases. The opposite happens with full metallic lining: you can barely stop a car WITH a booster, until the lining gets hot. Jim Leach Pacific Tiger Club Seattle From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 7 00:41:41 2003 From: "Russell & Neola" To: "Alpine List" Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 17:37:58 +1000 Subject: Re: Russ Maddock's Supreme Sunbeam Page Hi Bob, It should be okay now. Not sure what happened, but the server must have been out of commission for a couple of days. Russ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Hamilton" To: "Alpine List" Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 7:36 AM Subject: Russ Maddock's Supreme Sunbeam Page > Hi, > > Sorry to bomb the list, but I have been trying to add a link to Russ' > Sunbeam web page to my Sunbeam Talbot (www.sunbeamtalbot.info) web page but > the URL hasn't been working for the last few days. Has the location changed? > > Thanks, > Bob > > ========================================================= > Robert (Bob) A.C. Hamilton, Waverley, Nova Scotia, Canada > Home Page: www.accesswave.ca/~hamilton > Sunbeam Talbots - Alpine, Drophead and Saloon, 1953-1954 > Sunbeam Talbot Web Page: www.sunbeamtalbot.info > [Stable mates - 1973 Midget and 1968 M-B 280SE] > E-Mail: hamilton@accesswave.ca or robertach@ca.inter.net > ========================================================= From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 7 05:16:40 2003 From: CANISDOG@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 07:12:58 EST Subject: Re: Brake Booster And besides, if Lord Rootes put it there, put it BACK!!! :) Paul From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 7 05:32:01 2003 From: CANISDOG@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 07:28:35 EST Subject: Series IV Found A good friend of mine just uncovered (literally) a very solid rust free Series IV in Oregon. This was a California car and under cover and well kept. He only paid $800.00 and got it running yesterday. Nice twin Solex carbs and all. He plans on using the car for TIGER SHEET METAL!! Ouch! I am trying to talk him out of it. He is wavering but I don't know. It is car B94101820 LRX 39 SAL 501321 Even has the factory (dealer) Motorola radio and speaker. And it works!! If I had the means and money, I would go double his money and trailer it back to Colorado for a safe home. The problem with this guy is he has made a TON of money parting Alpines and know what kind of money can be had in parts. Paul From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 7 05:35:33 2003 From: "Bob Berghult" To: , Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 07:13:54 +0430 Subject: Re: Series IV Found OH NO, OUCH!!!!!!! ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: January 07, 2003 4:58 PM Subject: Series IV Found > A good friend of mine just uncovered (literally) a very solid rust free > Series IV in Oregon. This was a California car and under cover and well > kept. He only paid $800.00 and got it running yesterday. Nice twin Solex > carbs and all. He plans on using the car for TIGER SHEET METAL!! Ouch! > I am trying to talk him out of it. He is wavering but I don't know. > > It is car B94101820 LRX 39 > SAL 501321 > > Even has the factory (dealer) Motorola radio and speaker. And it works!! > If I had the means and money, I would go double his money and trailer it back > to Colorado for a safe home. The problem with this guy is he has made a TON > of money parting Alpines and know what kind of money can be had in parts. > > Paul From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 7 06:14:42 2003 From: "Eddie Donovan" To: , Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 08:11:22 -0500 Subject: RE: Series IV Found Criminally insane! Eddie Donovan (AlpineII) Carlsbad Springs, Ontario Series II, 1961 - B9108405 LRX - At the paint shop Series II, 1961 - B9104430 ODLR - Future project SAOCA Member #20 -----Original Message----- From: CANISDOG@aol.com [mailto:CANISDOG@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 7:29 AM To: alpines@autox.team.net Subject: Series IV Found A good friend of mine just uncovered (literally) a very solid rust free Series IV in Oregon. This was a California car and under cover and well kept. He only paid $800.00 and got it running yesterday. Nice twin Solex carbs and all. He plans on using the car for TIGER SHEET METAL!! Ouch! I am trying to talk him out of it. He is wavering but I don't know. It is car B94101820 LRX 39 SAL 501321 Even has the factory (dealer) Motorola radio and speaker. And it works!! If I had the means and money, I would go double his money and trailer it back to Colorado for a safe home. The problem with this guy is he has made a TON of money parting Alpines and know what kind of money can be had in parts. Paul From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 7 09:46:43 2003 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 08:41:46 -0800 Subject: Forwarded E-mail I would like to hear from anyone interested in participating in a Sunbeam/Jensen driving tour through the Texas hill country (just West of Austin/San Antonio) some weekend this fall. Steve Laifman - can you have Jay forward to the Alpine list I may extend to other "non-maintstream" british marques (TVR, Morgan, others?) if needed to get critical mass. Stephen Waybright - Houston, TX gswaybright@txucom.net From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 7 15:44:09 2003 From: Victor Hughes To: "alpines@autox.team.net" Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 09:35:47 +1100 Subject: Re: Brake Booster Jim and Paul, Thanks for that, I guess I have another little project to do. Apart from the booster, the larger bore master cylinder and the hose that runs between booster & inlet manifold, what other parts will I need to track down? I really need a parts book for this car, anyone out there have a spare? is there one online somewhere? Vic TIGEROOTES@aol.com wrote: > Vic, > I guarantee if you add a booster back into the system and then drive > the car, you will never want to be without it. Many people do not realize > that once brake lining gets hot, such as in a racing situation or down a long > steep hill, the brake pedal pressure required to stop a car increases. The > opposite happens with full metallic lining: you can barely stop a car WITH a > booster, until the lining gets hot. > Jim Leach Pacific Tiger Club Seattle From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 7 19:23:35 2003 From: "Ohan Korlikian" To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 18:20:09 -0800 Subject: Towing Alpine Hi All, Anyone know of a local towing company in Western Washington who can tow an Alpine from Vancouver,WA to Vancouver, BC? if so, any idea as to the cost? Ohan Korlikian Vancouver, BC '64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX www.sunbeamcanada.org _________________________________________________________________ From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 8 05:22:21 2003 From: JACranwell@aol.com To: alpinebob@bellsouth.net, CANISDOG@aol.com, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 07:18:45 EST Subject: Re: Series IV Found Don't you chaps have laws against such wanton acts of criminal vandalism? Could I suggest stringing the fella up by his toes, until the blood rushes to his head, and he sees sense. Julian. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 8 05:32:31 2003 From: JACranwell@aol.com To: hughes@scides.canberra.edu.au, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 07:28:22 EST Subject: Re: Brake Booster Vic, You will evidently need additional brake hydraulic lines between: 1 between the M/C and booster; and 1 between booster and junction joint. You may also need the vacuum hose adapter on the inlet manifold, although this has probably been capped rather than plugged. I'd strongly recommend the reversal. I recently had my SIII pass our rather rigorous road-worthiness test (MOT) here in the UK, and the tester commented that the brake performance would shame many new cars. He knows his stuff!. Good luck, Julian. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 8 08:20:40 2003 From: "Thomas Wiencek" To: "'Victor Hughes'" , Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 09:17:04 -0600 Subject: Alpine / Tiger Parts Manuals for Sale Go to - http://classicsunbeam.com Look up - PM124 Factory parts manual for Alpines & Tigers This is the best $50 you can spend on your Alpine or Tiger. Tom -----Original Message----- From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Victor Hughes Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 4:36 PM To: alpines@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Brake Booster Jim and Paul, Thanks for that, I guess I have another little project to do. Apart from the booster, the larger bore master cylinder and the hose that runs between booster & inlet manifold, what other parts will I need to track down? I really need a parts book for this car, anyone out there have a spare? is there one online somewhere? Vic TIGEROOTES@aol.com wrote: > Vic, > I guarantee if you add a booster back into the system and then drive > the car, you will never want to be without it. Many people do not realize > that once brake lining gets hot, such as in a racing situation or down a long > steep hill, the brake pedal pressure required to stop a car increases. The > opposite happens with full metallic lining: you can barely stop a car WITH a > booster, until the lining gets hot. > Jim Leach Pacific Tiger Club Seattle From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 8 17:44:42 2003 From: RSWiser@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 19:41:04 EST Subject: Steering Column Maintenance I am just about to start putting my freshly painted Series I back together. What if any maintenance is needed for the steering column. The steering box is full and there are no leaks. Also how do you go about doing maintenance on the column. Rob From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 8 19:03:17 2003 From: Alex McGregor To: alpines Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 20:02:12 -0600 Subject: Just stumbled across this It's a Tiger article. http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/bv/tiger.htm From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 07:30:18 2003 From: tjhiggin@mapapp1.iss.ingr.com (T.J. Higgins) To: alpines@autox.team.net (Alpines), hillman@can-inc.com (Hillmans) Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 09:00:53 -0600 (CST) Subject: alpine fastback wanted [Please contact Joe directly if you know of an Alpine fastback for sale. -- TJH] Forwarded message: > when i was in high school i had a fastback alpine and dont remember the year. > i would like to find another one like it. all the ones i see on these sites > are not fastbacks, can you help with this problem. i have always been under > the assumption that mine was a 69, but it seems that there wasent any 69s. > please help if you can thanks joe > turbo1428@aol.com From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 07:58:40 2003 From: "." To: alpines@autox.team.net (Alpines), hillman@can-inc.com (Hillmans) Date: 9 Jan 2003Reply-To: . Subject: Re: Brigade Ocho Free membership From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 07:58:34 2003 From: "." To: alpines@autox.team.net (Alpines), hillman@can-inc.com (Hillmans) Date: 9 Jan 2003Reply-To: . Subject: Re: Brigade Ocho Free membership From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 08:58:27 2003 From: Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 07:54:40 -0800 Subject: Alpines on eBay I haven't checked my home e-mails for a little bit. So maybe this already hit the group. But I noticed two Alpines for sale on eBay. One is a neat looking Series 2 with a Mazda rotary partially installed. It looks like a neat project: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=7247&item=1876577649 From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 09:35:08 2003 From: Paul Heuer To: Mailing List Alpines Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 10:32:11 -0600 Subject: Re: Brake Booster Russ, All the S3s had a booster (I believe). The cyl diameter is such that the pedal is VERY hard without the booster. I know this as my booster gave up about 5 days before I left Oz. I bypassed it, but the brakes were terrible. My father has since had the booster rebuilt and reports brakes that will actually lock up now and bring the car to a straight quick stop. Too bad I can't enjoy it ;-( Anyhooo, if your brakes are OK, chances are someone has replaced the MC with one from an early (non-booster) Alpine. If your brakes are lousy - you now know why.... Cheers, Paul. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 10:06:32 2003 From: tjhiggin@mapapp1.iss.ingr.com (T.J. Higgins) To: alpines@autox.team.net (Alpines) Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 11:02:43 -0600 (CST) Subject: Alpine parts for sale (fwd) > My dad owned about 5 sunbeams and got rid of the bodies a few years ago, > he's dead now and while searching thru his stuff in the barn > I've came across some parts that I would like to sell. The list would > be too great to name everything here. Mostly motor parts (one complete), > few transmissions (standard and one auto), radiators and some lenses and > misc. > > please email me and I'll see what i have, I'm in the USA, central NYS > > KETHC@aol.com From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 10:59:49 2003 From: ALF1725@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 12:56:03 EST Subject: Strange Sightings In yesterday's mail, received the monthly, staying-in-touch, letter from a local realtor. Included was a nicely printed sheet concerning setting and obtaining goals apparently published by some websites that charge a nominal amount to help individuals with such efforts. What caught my eye though was the picture in the lower right hand corner of a man and woman traveling down the road in a small convertible. The woman's arms are raised in joy. There is a suitcase behind the passengers. The view is from a few feet up and behind the vehicle so only the hood, windshield and part of the dashboard are visable. Maybe crazy, but think it is an Alpine. But wait, there's more ... Yesterday's mail also included the January issue of Spectrum magazine, published by the Institute of Electrical and Electronic Engineers. As I thumbed through it, spotted an ad for group insurance that featued the same image! Best guess is that it is owned by some image supply source. Suspect it will show up in other spots. Too bad there is nothing to show identify the marque as the picture does capture some of the joy of driving the Alpine. Anyone else spot this image? Cheers, Al Figler Series V - B395008421 LRX Woodinville, WA USA From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 11:51:01 2003 From: tjhiggin@mapapp1.iss.ingr.com (T.J. Higgins) To: alpines@autox.team.net (Alpines) Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 12:47:14 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: Strange Sightings ALF1725@aol.com wrote: > Best guess is that it is owned by some image supply source. Suspect it will > show up in other spots. Too bad there is nothing to show identify the marque > as the picture does capture some of the joy of driving the Alpine. > > Anyone else spot this image? Is the car white? I saw it in an ad on a web page the other day, but now I can't remember where. Looks like an Alpine or TR4 to me. -- T.J. Higgins tjhiggin@ingr.com Huntsville, AL From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 11:55:45 2003 From: "Bob Berghult" To: "T.J. Higgins" , Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 13:39:02 +0430 Subject: Re: Strange Sightings WELL, WHERE CAN WE SEE IT? Is there a URL link? Bob Berghult Series IV 39 (mine) Series II 30 (wife's) ----- Original Message ----- From: "T.J. Higgins" To: "Alpines" Sent: January 09, 2003 11:17 PM Subject: Re: Strange Sightings > ALF1725@aol.com wrote: > > Best guess is that it is owned by some image supply source. Suspect it will > > show up in other spots. Too bad there is nothing to show identify the marque > > as the picture does capture some of the joy of driving the Alpine. > > > > Anyone else spot this image? > > Is the car white? I saw it in an ad on a web page the other day, but > now I can't remember where. Looks like an Alpine or TR4 to me. > > -- > T.J. Higgins > tjhiggin@ingr.com > Huntsville, AL From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 11:56:48 2003 From: ALF1725@aol.com To: tjhiggin@mapapp1.iss.ingr.com, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 13:52:56 EST Subject: Re: Strange Sightings Car is red. Al From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 12:00:29 2003 From: ALF1725@aol.com To: alpinebob@bellsouth.net, tjhiggin@mapapp1.iss.ingr.com, Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 13:56:40 EST Subject: Re: Strange Sightings Sorry, do not have a URL link to use. If anybody wants, I'll scan it and send it off-list. (Yes, I do have virus protection software active.) Al From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 13:03:23 2003 From: Jarrid Gross To: "T.J. Higgins" , Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 12:00:33 -0800 Subject: [OT] New spamming technique. Piners, I think Ive uncovered a now way for spammers to see if they have a live email address. The email has a clever subject line that almost anyone will click on, "Changes to your email account" The email itself is almost jibberish, not even spammy, but it has hidden HTML in it that refers to a website, and the body of the HTML has your email address embedded in it that will get sent in an HTML dialag when you view the email. here is the HTML if anyone is interested, I substituted "your_email@your_domain.com" for my email address. As you can see, the spammer can verify automatically if he has a live address just be sending the email and then watching the HTML traffic on his web server. I suspect my spam load is about to skyrocket. Jarrid Gross From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 14:02:43 2003 From: chuck nicodemus To: Jarrid Gross Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 13:06:36 -0800 Subject: Re: [OT] New spamming technique. Dear sirs and mams' I ain't touching that one at all ... Way over my head and I have spamm killers that work well through my ISP.. Cheers chuck From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 14:09:09 2003 From: "Russell & Neola" To: Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 07:05:17 +1000 Subject: Re: alpine fastback wanted Joe, Although I can't help with cars for sale, here's a site that deals with fastback Alpines and Rapiers. http://www.sroc.org.uk/ Russ ----- Original Message ----- From: "T.J. Higgins" To: "Alpines" ; "Hillmans" Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 1:00 AM Subject: alpine fastback wanted > [Please contact Joe directly if you know of an Alpine fastback for > sale. -- TJH] > > Forwarded message: > > when i was in high school i had a fastback alpine and dont remember the year. > > i would like to find another one like it. all the ones i see on these sites > > are not fastbacks, can you help with this problem. i have always been under > > the assumption that mine was a 69, but it seems that there wasent any 69s. > > please help if you can thanks joe > > turbo1428@aol.com From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 16:03:09 2003 From: Jan Eyerman To: Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 17:59:26 -0500 Subject: Re: [Re: alpine fastback wanted] Joe, I am assuming that by saying you a looking for a fastback, you are referring to the 1969-1970 Sunbeam Alpine and Sunbeam Alpine GT cars. These looked like mini-Barracudas of the same era. There is a 1969 Alpine Coupe (not GT) for sale somewhere in the southern part of the US. An internet search should bring it up. They are asking some huge amount of money ($15,000???) I think. The car is dark blue with a black interior. It has a cast iron head engine with a single carb and a manual transmission. It has UNDER 500 miles on it (no mistake, that is under 500 miles). Long story, but the engine had to be rebuilt when new, so it sat at an old Sunbeam dealer for 30+ years. If you are looking for probably the best '69 Alpine coupe in teh world, that has got to be it. It even smells new. If that is a bit too much for you (it was far too much for me!), try calling British Auto at 315-986-3097 and ask for Mark. He has a well used, but quite restorable '69 Alpine GT (twin carb model), plus several parts cars (believe me, these are ONLY parts cars). Jan Eyerman (owned 2 1/2 '69 Alpine GTs and loved them!) "Russell & Neola" wrote: Joe, Although I can't help with cars for sale, here's a site that deals with fastback Alpines and Rapiers. http://www.sroc.org.uk/ Russ ----- Original Message ----- From: "T.J. Higgins" To: "Alpines" ; "Hillmans" Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 1:00 AM Subject: alpine fastback wanted > [Please contact Joe directly if you know of an Alpine fastback for > sale. -- TJH] > > Forwarded message: > > when i was in high school i had a fastback alpine and dont remember the year. > > i would like to find another one like it. all the ones i see on these sites > > are not fastbacks, can you help with this problem. i have always been under > > the assumption that mine was a 69, but it seems that there wasent any 69s. > > please help if you can thanks joe > > turbo1428@aol.com From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 9 21:08:27 2003 From: "Eddie Donovan" To: "Jarrid Gross" , Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 22:58:55 -0500 Subject: RE: [OT] New spamming technique. Like all of I get the usual assortment of spam, 10 to 15 a day. Several months ago I started the habit of looking in the list of new mail and before opening, deleting anything that originated from someone I didn't know or whose subject line made it obvious enough. Then I'd go back and begin to read what remained. I'm certain I've deleted a couple from list members but by and large I read enough from the group to be familiar with most of your e-mail "handles". With this and the usual assortment of anti-virus, etc software I haven't yet been infected with anything. I probably still receive the odd one but not even opening the e-mail (or having the preview option enabled which opens it them)keeps me a little safer and up and running longer. On a better note! I just came back from the paint shop and my 1961 Series II has six new coats of colour (39 from Jan's paint chips) and six new coats of clear on a frame-off restoration of a rust free body! They start buffing it tomorrow! Took some good pictures with my wife's new digital camera that I wish I could send to you all as attachments but they'd be stripped off before getting to you. It's so great after a couple of years to see my Alpine with a beautiful new coat on. 8~) Eddie Donovan (AlpineII) Carlsbad Springs, Ontario Series II, 1961 - B9108405 LRX - Finished the paint shop and starting to re-assemble. Series II, 1961 - B9104430 ODLR - Future project SAOCA Member #20 -----Original Message----- From: Jarrid Gross [mailto:JGross@econolite.com] Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 3:01 PM To: T.J. Higgins; Alpines Subject: [OT] New spamming technique. Piners, I think Ive uncovered a now way for spammers to see if they have a live email address. The email has a clever subject line that almost anyone will click on, "Changes to your email account" The email itself is almost jibberish, not even spammy, but it has hidden HTML in it that refers to a website, and the body of the HTML has your email address embedded in it that will get sent in an HTML dialag when you view the email. here is the HTML if anyone is interested, I substituted "your_email@your_domain.com" for my email address. As you can see, the spammer can verify automatically if he has a live address just be sending the email and then watching the HTML traffic on his web server. I suspect my spam load is about to skyrocket. Jarrid Gross From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 10 02:50:36 2003 From: SunbeamAlpine64@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 04:46:42 EST Subject: Engine recommission - advice? (Not Alpine) Hi This weekend I'll be taking delivery of a 1968 Reliant Scimitar Coupe fitted with a Ford 3lite V6. The car hasn't moved in 18years but the engine turns by hand. Are there any special precautions to take before trying to fire her up for the first time? Any particular checks to do? (I intend to check the fule line, change oil & filter, rinse out the tanks with new petrol, fit new plugs & points, fan belt, battery, coolant) Anything else? Thanks Mark Series 4 - with new gleaming Weber From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 10 08:39:09 2003 From: tjhiggin@mapapp1.iss.ingr.com (T.J. Higgins) To: alpines@autox.team.net (Alpines) Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 09:35:15 -0600 (CST) Subject: SV brake booster & master cylinder for sale (fwd) Forwarded message: > > I have a SV brake booster& master cylinder for sale.They came off 58,000 > mile California car $150 for both +S&H > Albert Mason > 229 E Chestnut St > Lisbon Ohio 44432 > 330-424-0236 > agmason54@hotmail.com > I have lots of other stuff From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 10 09:59:35 2003 From: RootesRooter@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 11:55:29 EST Subject: Re: [OT] New spamming technique. Does this spamming technique affect only people using Outlook, or do people using AOL also have to worry about opening email? Is the Alpine list affected at all? DS In a message dated 1/9/03 8:06:01 PM Pacific Standard Time, Eddie.Donovan@PWGSC.GC.CA writes: << Like all of I get the usual assortment of spam, 10 to 15 a day. Several months ago I started the habit of looking in the list of new mail and before opening, deleting anything that originated from someone I didn't know or whose subject line made it obvious enough. Then I'd go back and begin to read what remained. I'm certain I've deleted a couple from list members but by and large I read enough from the group to be familiar with most of your e-mail "handles". With this and the usual assortment of anti-virus, etc software I haven't yet been infected with anything. I probably still receive the odd one but not even opening the e-mail (or having the preview option enabled which opens it them)keeps me a little safer and up and running longer. >> From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 10 11:15:01 2003 From: Jarrid Gross To: RootesRooter@aol.com, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 10:11:51 -0800 Subject: RE: [OT] New spamming technique. I suspect it affects any email client that automatically loads HTML pages when the email is viewed. If you see pictures in your emails sometimes then you are also vulnerable to this ploy. One way to prevent the problem is to set your email client not to auto-preview. This way if the email adress is suspect you can delete then, but if you view the message, the sender gets to see that he has a live address. Jarrid -----Original Message----- From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of RootesRooter@aol.com Sent: Friday, January 10, 2003 8:55 AM To: alpines@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [OT] New spamming technique. Does this spamming technique affect only people using Outlook, or do people using AOL also have to worry about opening email? Is the Alpine list affected at all? DS In a message dated 1/9/03 8:06:01 PM Pacific Standard Time, Eddie.Donovan@PWGSC.GC.CA writes: << Like all of I get the usual assortment of spam, 10 to 15 a day. Several months ago I started the habit of looking in the list of new mail and before opening, deleting anything that originated from someone I didn't know or whose subject line made it obvious enough. Then I'd go back and begin to read what remained. I'm certain I've deleted a couple from list members but by and large I read enough from the group to be familiar with most of your e-mail "handles". With this and the usual assortment of anti-virus, etc software I haven't yet been infected with anything. I probably still receive the odd one but not even opening the e-mail (or having the preview option enabled which opens it them)keeps me a little safer and up and running longer. >> From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 10 11:19:16 2003 From: tjhiggin@mapapp1.iss.ingr.com (T.J. Higgins) To: alpines@autox.team.net (Alpines) Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 12:15:20 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: [OT] New spamming technique. > Does this spamming technique affect only people using Outlook, or do people > using AOL also have to worry about opening email? Is the Alpine list > affected at all? The Alpine list is not affected. None of the lists on autox.team.net are affected. The autox server blocks messages containing HTML or binary attachments. -- T.J. Higgins tjhiggin@ingr.com Huntsville, AL From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 10 14:12:43 2003 From: tom.hill@att.net To: SunbeamAlpine64@aol.com Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 21:08:50 +0000 Subject: Re: Engine recommission - advice? (Not Alpine) Mark, I would take the plugs out, squirt a little oil in each cylinder and crank the engine with the coil wire disconnected until the oil pressure comes up. Then replace the plugs and reconnect the coil wire and proceed as normal. This should lubricate the cylinder walls and get oil back into all the right places before the engine is refired. In addition, this should producing copious amounts of oil smoke when the engine first starts so don't do it in the garage and do have an extra set of plugs handy. My $0.02USD, Tom Hill > Hi > > This weekend I'll be taking delivery of a 1968 Reliant Scimitar Coupe fitted > with a Ford 3lite V6. The car hasn't moved in 18years but the engine turns by > hand. > > Are there any special precautions to take before trying to fire her up for > the first time? Any particular checks to do? > (I intend to check the fule line, change oil & filter, rinse out the tanks > with new petrol, fit new plugs & points, fan belt, battery, coolant) > Anything else? > > Thanks > Mark > > Series 4 - with new gleaming Weber From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 11 07:30:21 2003 From: "Kevin McLemore" To: Eddie.Donovan@PWGSC.GC.CA, JGross@econolite.com, Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 09:26:21 -0500 Subject: RE: [OT] New spamming technique. Yes, Eddie, I do the same thing.. delete everything that seems suspicious or like spam before I even open them! This keeps any attached VBS scripts or other 'nasties' from running and delivering malicious code to my box. -Kevin McLemore ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Eddie Donovan" Reply-To: "Eddie Donovan" To: "Jarrid Gross" , "T.J. Higgins" , "Alpines" Subject: RE: [OT] New spamming technique. Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 22:58:55 -0500 Like all of I get the usual assortment of spam, 10 to 15 a day. Several months ago I started the habit of looking in the list of new mail and before opening, deleting anything that originated from someone I didn't know or whose subject line made it obvious enough. Then I'd go back and begin to read what remained. I'm certain I've deleted a couple from list members but by and large I read enough from the group to be familiar with most of your e-mail "handles". With this and the usual assortment of anti-virus, etc software I haven't yet been infected with anything. I probably still receive the odd one but not even opening the e-mail (or having the preview option enabled which opens it them)keeps me a little safer and up and running longer. On a better note! I just came back from the paint shop and my 1961 Series II has six new coats of colour (39 from Jan's paint chips) and six new coats of clear on a frame-off restoration of a rust free body! They start buffing it tomorrow! Took some good pictures with my wife's new digital camera that I wish I could send to you all as attachments but they'd be stripped off before getting to you. It's so great after a couple of years to see my Alpine with a beautiful new coat on. 8~) Eddie Donovan (AlpineII) Carlsbad Springs, Ontario Series II, 1961 - B9108405 LRX - Finished the paint shop and starting to re-assemble. Series II, 1961 - B9104430 ODLR - Future project SAOCA Member #20 -----Original Message----- From: Jarrid Gross [mailto:JGross@econolite.com] Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 3:01 PM To: T.J. Higgins; Alpines Subject: [OT] New spamming technique. Piners, I think Ive uncovered a now way for spammers to see if they have a live email address. The email has a clever subject line that almost anyone will click on, "Changes to your email account" The email itself is almost jibberish, not even spammy, but it has hidden HTML in it that refers to a website, and the body of the HTML has your email address embedded in it that will get sent in an HTML dialag when you view the email. here is the HTML if anyone is interested, I substituted "your_email@your_domain.com" for my email address. As you can see, the spammer can verify automatically if he has a live address just be sending the email and then watching the HTML traffic on his web server. I suspect my spam load is about to skyrocket. Jarrid Gross _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 11 08:52:53 2003 From: "barbara laifman" To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 07:49:02 -0800 Subject: Re: Brake Booster Victor asks about putting back in the booster on his car. It seems that a prior owner removed the servo and also put in a small ID master. A couple people suggested it is a good thing to put it back in. From my experience, I would disagree. I have the smaller .70 master in there with no servo. I did put in a servo and found that the brakes were WAY too soft. I did not like it at all. I would also add that the booster I have is the 1.9:1 booster that VB sells. Should anyone care, and I recently posted this to the SunbeamAlpine.com Forum, Lockheed wrote me and told me that the original booster for the Alpine was 3:1. The one that Sunbeam Specialties sells is 2.3:1. In looking at the applications on the instructions that came with my VB one, it appears that 2.3:1 is more appropriate for the Alpine. If anyone is interested in more details, let me know, or go to the Forum. Jay From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 11 10:44:35 2003 From: RootesRooter@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 12:40:30 EST Subject: Re: Brake Booster In a message dated 1/11/03 7:49:48 AM Pacific Standard Time, barbaralaifman@earthlink.net writes: << Lockheed wrote me and told me that the original booster for the Alpine was 3:1. The one that Sunbeam Specialties sells is 2.3:1. >> Just so I'm clear on this, which booster was Lockheed discussing? The small Girling boosters on Series III, IV and early V, the larger Girling booster on later Series V's, the Lockheed unit used on the Arrow/Hunter Range (including the fastback Alpine), or one of the aftermarket Lockheed boosters? I think the SAOC had an article once on the different boosts ratios. Anyone know which issue of The Horn it appeared in? Dick Sanders From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 11 16:45:21 2003 From: GSTROM99@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 18:41:12 EST Subject: Sealing stuff? There is some stuff on my Series II (aka ThunderPine) that seals the seam for the fender to the inner fender panel/boxes that used to be rubber or something. It has long lost it's connection to the fender, but seems mostly attached to the inner fender OK. The stuff is rock hard now and needs to be renewed. What is the goo-of-choice you guys have used for this sealer. I was going to silicone, but there prolly is something better. I'm going to a swap meet tomorrow, so I should be able to find "the right stuff" there. Gary Strom Series II (stock) ThunderPine (Series II w/351) From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 11 17:02:33 2003 From: jumpinjan To: GSTROM99@aol.com Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 18:58:53 -0800 Subject: Re: Sealing stuff? Gary, Please, do NOT use silicone. The sealant that you want is the 3M Ultrapro Sealant, #08300. You will probably need about three tubes. I really doubt that you will actually find this at a swap meet. Rootes actually documented that the inner fender, where that old sealer use to be, needs to be removed and the inner fender needed to be washed to remove the road grime that collects behind the splash panel. jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 12 08:01:27 2003 From: "Kevin McLemore" To: jservaites@woh.rr.com, GSTROM99@aol.com Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 09:50:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Sealing stuff? Jan's right - do NOT use silicone! It won't work long term (it's not self-healing) and once it's been on there NOTHING will stick after that. Use the 3M products - they are all excellent. You can get the 3M Ultrapro at any auto body supply store... if you don't know of one (they don't usually do retail) then you can either stop in at a friendly shop and ask who they use and perhaps contact them to see if they'll sell to you, or actually if the body shop is REALLY friendly you might ask if they'll get you a couple of tubes in their next supplies run. I've also found the 3M strip caulk works nicely for gap-filling, too, and was often used by manufacturers. You warm it up in your hands then stuff it in the seams like putty. Works a treat and lasts bloody ages, staying pliable and tight. -Kevin McLemore ----Original Message Follows---- From: jumpinjan Reply-To: jumpinjan To: GSTROM99@aol.com CC: alpines@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Sealing stuff? Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 18:58:53 -0800 Gary, Please, do NOT use silicone. The sealant that you want is the 3M Ultrapro Sealant, #08300. You will probably need about three tubes. I really doubt that you will actually find this at a swap meet. Rootes actually documented that the inner fender, where that old sealer use to be, needs to be removed and the inner fender needed to be washed to remove the road grime that collects behind the splash panel. jan _________________________________________________________________ From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 12 09:06:54 2003 From: jumpinjan To: Kevin McLemore Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 11:03:19 -0800 Subject: Re: Sealing stuff? Thanks Kevin. Yes, the 3M sealer can be purchased at an automotive paint supplier. You want to remove ALL of that hard, original sealer, wash the insides with a power washer or something similar, let dry and then use the 3M sealer. There might be large gap to fill, and you might need to lay 1-2 beads, let it dry and then finally close up the gap with another application. Jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 12 14:55:48 2003 From: chuck nicodemus To: RootesRooter@aol.com Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 13:59:11 -0800 Subject: Re: [OT] New spamming technique. I would believe that anyone that uses the normal AOL's type programs are goingto more subject to this type of mail. I went to a private ISP and Netscape 7.0 ,, and have very little spam stopped by the ISP. I do get some virus info but through my ISP and my own anti-virus... Walla no problems for over two years. For those of you in the Great NW. go on to the Spiretech.com page and do a littel bit of research. Also they are VERY user friendly. But of course all denials are in this note. Cheers And luck Chuck RootesRooter@aol.com wrote: > Does this spamming technique affect only people using Outlook, or do people From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 12 15:05:49 2003 From: chuck nicodemus To: GSTROM99@aol.com Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 14:09:18 -0800 Subject: Re: Sealing stuff? I had a similar situation ,,,rain and speed don't mix. Water was coming in around the panels. So one day I had the wheels off..you know just for kicks.. As we all do. I had a bunch of body mans sticky black rubbery stuff and cleaned the heck out of the wheel wells, all connecting joints and applied it with wet hands,,,,wet hands don't stick to it whilst pushing into the gaps. Any way so far so good and no wet feet. The 3 M stuff sounds about right .I through the boxes away. Cheers Chuck GSTROM99@aol.com wrote: > There is some stuff on my Series II (aka ThunderPine) that seals the seam for > the fender to the inner fender panel/boxes that used to be rubber or From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 12 15:59:11 2003 From: Alex McGregor To: chuck nicodemus Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 16:56:04 -0600 Subject: Shipping Costs Does anybody have an idea of the cost to ship a car from the LA area to western Canada? It's not running but all there and rolls. Don't know why I'm thinking about Alpines. It was -33C, or about -20F, overnight. Thanks in advance Al From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 12 19:45:46 2003 From: "Ohan Korlikian" To: awmcgregor@shaw.ca, armorseal@spiretech.com Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 18:41:27 -0800 Subject: Re: Shipping Costs Try Searail http://www.searail.ca/ I used them before when I shipped a car from Vancouver, BC to Montreal, PQ. They offered door to door service and charged me $1,000.00 CAD tax, insurance and all. Although they prefer the car runs, I'm sure if you talk to the right person, they may make an exception. I just got a S-V this weekend and I am planning on picking it up next friday. I thought of using searail, however, they require a weeks notice and could not guarantee the pick up time. The time is important because, US Customs at the Pacific truck crossing requires 72 hours notice to conduct a background check on the car before they can allow passage. US CUSTOMS OUTBOUND TEAM, 9901 Pacific Hwy, Blaine WA 98230 (360)332-2632 (360)332-2341 fax Hours of operations: 08:00-17:00 monday-friday. Now the MOST important thing is to ensure the car reaches their attention between these hours otherwise you are looped. They will not allow the car to be parked there and Canada customs will not grant entry until you get the clearance from US Customs stamps. Planning is the key. If you call US Customs they can e-mail or fax you the "exporter's used vehicle worksheet" Once in Canada, you will need to complete a "vehicle import form" and pay the GST. I hope this helps. If you need more info drop me a line. Ohan Korlikian Vancouver, BC '64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX www.sunbeamcanada.org >From: Alex McGregor >Reply-To: Alex McGregor >To: chuck nicodemus >CC: alpines@autox.team.net >Subject: Shipping Costs >Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 16:56:04 -0600 > >Does anybody have an idea of the cost to ship a car from the LA area to >western >Canada? It's not running but all there and rolls. > >Don't know why I'm thinking about Alpines. It was -33C, or about -20F, >overnight. > >Thanks in advance > >Al _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 13 01:12:53 2003 From: "Ohan Korlikian" To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 00:08:35 -0800 Subject: Changing fluids for S-V Hello All, I went to look at an Alpine on the weekend and decided to buy it. Once I get it home, I plan on changing all the fluids. As my previous Alpine was in parts, this one is in a running conditon and I plan on using it regularly. Any suggestion as to the brand names I should consider for: Engine oil Transmission fluid Brake fluid Antifreeze Also, Oil filter Spark plugs Any additional information would be appreciated. Ohan Korlikian Vancouver, BC '64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX '67 Series V Alpine B395009458 LRX (coming soon) www.sunbeamcanada.org _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 13 07:29:08 2003 From: "Eddie Donovan" To: "Alex McGregor" Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 09:24:45 -0500 Subject: RE: Shipping Costs Al, I had a Series II Alpine shipped from Los Angeles to Ottawa. All was arranged by the hauler. The car was first shipped from LA to my haulers (Wayne Rowe Classic Cars) yard in Phoenix for $350 USD. Then it went from Phoenix to Ottawa for a cost of $1,375 Canadian including PST and GST. I can't recall what the cost of the import duties were but it wasn't excessive. The biggest problem was the wait. There can be a waiting list to get on a hauler and I had to wait for 5 months for a place on the rig. You will find that a non-runner is a lot more expensive to have shipped. My Series II was a complete car but not running and as I found out most haulers won't touch it if you can't drive it on and off a transport. I did get quotes on shipping a running Series V from pretty well the same area and the price was about 30% less. Eddie Donovan (AlpineII) Carlsbad Springs, Ontario Series II, 1961 - B9108405 LRX - At the paint shop and waiting for parts Series II, 1961 - B9104430 ODLR - Future project SAOCA Member #20 -----Original Message----- From: Alex McGregor [mailto:awmcgregor@shaw.ca] Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 5:56 PM To: chuck nicodemus Cc: alpines@autox.team.net Subject: Shipping Costs Does anybody have an idea of the cost to ship a car from the LA area to western Canada? It's not running but all there and rolls. Don't know why I'm thinking about Alpines. It was -33C, or about -20F, overnight. Thanks in advance Al From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 13 09:50:41 2003 From: Jarrid Gross To: Kevin McLemore , Eddie.Donovan@PWGSC.GC.CA, Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 08:29:11 -0800 Subject: RE: [OT] New spamming technique. Kevin, But would you ignore an email with a title that says" "Changes to your email account" Your parcitice sounds fine, but I think this one would still get you. Since I originally started this thread, I have received 2 more from other sources with equally compelling titles. Your virus checker wont catch this because it has no payload. It gives confirmation that your email address is valid and that you read your email, and also (which scares me even more) provides your IP address to the server that is logging all the hits from these emails. An even less scrupulous scammer could use your IP address to find a vulnerability in your computer. I have seen the future and it is getting downright scary. Jarrid. -----Original Message----- From: Kevin McLemore [mailto:kmclemore@hotmail.com] Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 6:26 AM To: Eddie.Donovan@PWGSC.GC.CA; JGross@econolite.com; tjhiggin@mapapp1.iss.ingr.com; alpines@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [OT] New spamming technique. Yes, Eddie, I do the same thing.. delete everything that seems suspicious or like spam before I even open them! This keeps any attached VBS scripts or other 'nasties' from running and delivering malicious code to my box. -Kevin McLemore ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Eddie Donovan" Reply-To: "Eddie Donovan" To: "Jarrid Gross" , "T.J. Higgins" , "Alpines" Subject: RE: [OT] New spamming technique. Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 22:58:55 -0500 Like all of I get the usual assortment of spam, 10 to 15 a day. Several months ago I started the habit of looking in the list of new mail and before opening, deleting anything that originated from someone I didn't know or whose subject line made it obvious enough. Then I'd go back and begin to read what remained. I'm certain I've deleted a couple from list members but by and large I read enough from the group to be familiar with most of your e-mail "handles". With this and the usual assortment of anti-virus, etc software I haven't yet been infected with anything. I probably still receive the odd one but not even opening the e-mail (or having the preview option enabled which opens it them)keeps me a little safer and up and running longer. On a better note! I just came back from the paint shop and my 1961 Series II has six new coats of colour (39 from Jan's paint chips) and six new coats of clear on a frame-off restoration of a rust free body! They start buffing it tomorrow! Took some good pictures with my wife's new digital camera that I wish I could send to you all as attachments but they'd be stripped off before getting to you. It's so great after a couple of years to see my Alpine with a beautiful new coat on. 8~) Eddie Donovan (AlpineII) Carlsbad Springs, Ontario Series II, 1961 - B9108405 LRX - Finished the paint shop and starting to re-assemble. Series II, 1961 - B9104430 ODLR - Future project SAOCA Member #20 -----Original Message----- From: Jarrid Gross [mailto:JGross@econolite.com] Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 3:01 PM To: T.J. Higgins; Alpines Subject: [OT] New spamming technique. Piners, I think Ive uncovered a now way for spammers to see if they have a live email address. The email has a clever subject line that almost anyone will click on, "Changes to your email account" The email itself is almost jibberish, not even spammy, but it has hidden HTML in it that refers to a website, and the body of the HTML has your email address embedded in it that will get sent in an HTML dialag when you view the email. here is the HTML if anyone is interested, I substituted "your_email@your_domain.com" for my email address. As you can see, the spammer can verify automatically if he has a live address just be sending the email and then watching the HTML traffic on his web server. I suspect my spam load is about to skyrocket. Jarrid Gross _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 13 10:03:03 2003 From: "Patrick" To: Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 17:58:29 +0100 Subject: AW: [OT] New spamming technique. hi i think, if one is using outlook, then you can set the email to be send and i think also received as text and not as html. if so, then text won't hurt at all. html can execute syntax, plain text can't. so to prevent this from happen, change the setting. i recon, this would help. patrick -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: owner-alpines@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Jarrid Gross Gesendet: Montag, 13. Januar 2003 17:29 An: Kevin McLemore; Eddie.Donovan@PWGSC.GC.CA; tjhiggin@mapapp1.iss.ingr.com; alpines@autox.team.net Betreff: RE: [OT] New spamming technique. Kevin, But would you ignore an email with a title that says" "Changes to your email account" Your parcitice sounds fine, but I think this one would still get you. Since I originally started this thread, I have received 2 more from other sources with equally compelling titles. Your virus checker wont catch this because it has no payload. It gives confirmation that your email address is valid and that you read your email, and also (which scares me even more) provides your IP address to the server that is logging all the hits from these emails. An even less scrupulous scammer could use your IP address to find a vulnerability in your computer. I have seen the future and it is getting downright scary. Jarrid. -----Original Message----- From: Kevin McLemore [mailto:kmclemore@hotmail.com] Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 6:26 AM To: Eddie.Donovan@PWGSC.GC.CA; JGross@econolite.com; tjhiggin@mapapp1.iss.ingr.com; alpines@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [OT] New spamming technique. Yes, Eddie, I do the same thing.. delete everything that seems suspicious or like spam before I even open them! This keeps any attached VBS scripts or other 'nasties' from running and delivering malicious code to my box. -Kevin McLemore ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Eddie Donovan" Reply-To: "Eddie Donovan" To: "Jarrid Gross" , "T.J. Higgins" , "Alpines" Subject: RE: [OT] New spamming technique. Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 22:58:55 -0500 Like all of I get the usual assortment of spam, 10 to 15 a day. Several months ago I started the habit of looking in the list of new mail and before opening, deleting anything that originated from someone I didn't know or whose subject line made it obvious enough. Then I'd go back and begin to read what remained. I'm certain I've deleted a couple from list members but by and large I read enough from the group to be familiar with most of your e-mail "handles". With this and the usual assortment of anti-virus, etc software I haven't yet been infected with anything. I probably still receive the odd one but not even opening the e-mail (or having the preview option enabled which opens it them)keeps me a little safer and up and running longer. On a better note! I just came back from the paint shop and my 1961 Series II has six new coats of colour (39 from Jan's paint chips) and six new coats of clear on a frame-off restoration of a rust free body! They start buffing it tomorrow! Took some good pictures with my wife's new digital camera that I wish I could send to you all as attachments but they'd be stripped off before getting to you. It's so great after a couple of years to see my Alpine with a beautiful new coat on. 8~) Eddie Donovan (AlpineII) Carlsbad Springs, Ontario Series II, 1961 - B9108405 LRX - Finished the paint shop and starting to re-assemble. Series II, 1961 - B9104430 ODLR - Future project SAOCA Member #20 -----Original Message----- From: Jarrid Gross [mailto:JGross@econolite.com] Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 3:01 PM To: T.J. Higgins; Alpines Subject: [OT] New spamming technique. Piners, I think Ive uncovered a now way for spammers to see if they have a live email address. The email has a clever subject line that almost anyone will click on, "Changes to your email account" The email itself is almost jibberish, not even spammy, but it has hidden HTML in it that refers to a website, and the body of the HTML has your email address embedded in it that will get sent in an HTML dialag when you view the email. here is the HTML if anyone is interested, I substituted "your_email@your_domain.com" for my email address. As you can see, the spammer can verify automatically if he has a live address just be sending the email and then watching the HTML traffic on his web server. I suspect my spam load is about to skyrocket. Jarrid Gross _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 13 12:04:39 2003 From: Jerome Yuzyk To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 11:54:16 -0700 Subject: Re: [OT] New spamming technique. Here's what I do. I've been using Internet e-mail for over a decade now, and watched the volume of crap rise (and then fall with the measures I use). I Never, Ever use a good e-mail address to register with any public service. Most public services, if they don't need to get back to you to verify something, with be more than happy taking the address "x@x.x", so I use that first. I have a largely-ignored Hotmail account if I really need to hear back from an untrusted source. Registering for the New York Times Online, for example, got me a buttload of junk for years until the address I used expired. Now I use one of several "public" registrations available to read the Times. I filter all incoming mail that isn't To: or CC: the addresses I have (including list addresses) into a separate folder. So, they immediately get put out of the way and I view them with suspiscion from the start. This can be done in every major mail program. Over time I have noted patterns and added them to my filter rules to, for example, delete all mail coming from several different Asian ISPs. I also turn off the ability to display HTML in mail, because I generally don't want to hear from anyone that would use such blaoted bumpf in e-mail. And best of all, I don't use Outlook or any Microsoft mail product, ever. And, to do my little part to help get back at spammers I report all spam I get to SpamCop (http://spamcop.net/sc), a free service that notifies the appropriate admins for the ISPs used for the spams. For my websites, I used a munged address that a human should be able to correct to reach me. I also refuse access for various address-harvesting SPAMbots, instead redirecting them to a page of address links for members of the American Direct-Mail Marketing Association. I have a half-dozen addresses, and am on 5 different mailing lists. I get 5 or 6 spams on a bad day now, and can enjoy reporting them to SpamCop. -- = J e r o m e Y u z y k | jerome@supernet.ab.ca = Sunbeam Alpine Series II #9118636 | www.bss.ab.ca/sunbeam From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 13 17:07:03 2003 From: "Kevin McLemore" To: JGross@econolite.com, Eddie.Donovan@PWGSC.GC.CA, Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 18:57:35 -0500 Subject: RE: [OT] New spamming technique. Agreed, Jarrid, but I also look to see who the sender is. If I don't do business with or recognise the sender I delete it without looking. Yes, I know that the address name can be spoofed too, but I even delete the cr*p from Hotmail. My actual ISP is a private one, so if it's not directly from them I delete it right off. (And I will *NEVER* use AOL! Ugh.) You're right, though, in that as time goes on the ways these morons try to get into your PC just keep getting more and more devious. Sigh. Regards, Kevin ----Original Message Follows---- From: Jarrid Gross To: Kevin McLemore , Eddie.Donovan@PWGSC.GC.CA, tjhiggin@mapapp1.iss.ingr.com, alpines@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [OT] New spamming technique. Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 08:29:11 -0800 Kevin, But would you ignore an email with a title that says" "Changes to your email account" Your parcitice sounds fine, but I think this one would still get you. Since I originally started this thread, I have received 2 more from other sources with equally compelling titles. Your virus checker wont catch this because it has no payload. It gives confirmation that your email address is valid and that you read your email, and also (which scares me even more) provides your IP address to the server that is logging all the hits from these emails. An even less scrupulous scammer could use your IP address to find a vulnerability in your computer. I have seen the future and it is getting downright scary. Jarrid. -----Original Message----- From: Kevin McLemore [mailto:kmclemore@hotmail.com] Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 6:26 AM To: Eddie.Donovan@PWGSC.GC.CA; JGross@econolite.com; tjhiggin@mapapp1.iss.ingr.com; alpines@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [OT] New spamming technique. Yes, Eddie, I do the same thing.. delete everything that seems suspicious or like spam before I even open them! This keeps any attached VBS scripts or other 'nasties' from running and delivering malicious code to my box. -Kevin McLemore ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Eddie Donovan" Reply-To: "Eddie Donovan" To: "Jarrid Gross" , "T.J. Higgins" , "Alpines" Subject: RE: [OT] New spamming technique. Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 22:58:55 -0500 Like all of I get the usual assortment of spam, 10 to 15 a day. Several months ago I started the habit of looking in the list of new mail and before opening, deleting anything that originated from someone I didn't know or whose subject line made it obvious enough. Then I'd go back and begin to read what remained. I'm certain I've deleted a couple from list members but by and large I read enough from the group to be familiar with most of your e-mail "handles". With this and the usual assortment of anti-virus, etc software I haven't yet been infected with anything. I probably still receive the odd one but not even opening the e-mail (or having the preview option enabled which opens it them)keeps me a little safer and up and running longer. On a better note! I just came back from the paint shop and my 1961 Series II has six new coats of colour (39 from Jan's paint chips) and six new coats of clear on a frame-off restoration of a rust free body! They start buffing it tomorrow! Took some good pictures with my wife's new digital camera that I wish I could send to you all as attachments but they'd be stripped off before getting to you. It's so great after a couple of years to see my Alpine with a beautiful new coat on. 8~) Eddie Donovan (AlpineII) Carlsbad Springs, Ontario Series II, 1961 - B9108405 LRX - Finished the paint shop and starting to re-assemble. Series II, 1961 - B9104430 ODLR - Future project SAOCA Member #20 -----Original Message----- From: Jarrid Gross [mailto:JGross@econolite.com] Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 3:01 PM To: T.J. Higgins; Alpines Subject: [OT] New spamming technique. Piners, I think Ive uncovered a now way for spammers to see if they have a live email address. The email has a clever subject line that almost anyone will click on, "Changes to your email account" The email itself is almost jibberish, not even spammy, but it has hidden HTML in it that refers to a website, and the body of the HTML has your email address embedded in it that will get sent in an HTML dialag when you view the email. here is the HTML if anyone is interested, I substituted "your_email@your_domain.com" for my email address. As you can see, the spammer can verify automatically if he has a live address just be sending the email and then watching the HTML traffic on his web server. I suspect my spam load is about to skyrocket. Jarrid Gross _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 13 17:32:34 2003 From: GSTROM99@aol.com To: jservaites@woh.rr.com Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 19:27:35 EST Subject: Re: Sealing stuff? Thanks for all the info guys... You're the greatest! I did go to the swap meet, but wouldn't you know I forgot all about that sealing stuff! duh. There IS always this one vender who probably had it too. But I'll go to my paint supply guy and get it. It's in a tube (like seam sealer), right? gs From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 13 18:08:25 2003 From: jumpinjan To: GSTROM99@aol.com Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 20:04:25 -0800 Subject: Re: Sealing stuff? GSTROM99@aol.com wrote: > It's in a tube (like seam sealer), right? It's in a caulking tube, so just use the typical dispenser from Lowes. Jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 14 08:02:44 2003 From: Whiteford Andy To: Alpine List Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 14:58:06 -0000 Subject: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe? Could somebody remind me which other "Audax A" Rootes group car(s) have the same engine subframe and front suspension geomentry as the Alpine ? I'm wondering if buying a rusty but running car with the later (Alpine 4 or 5) style subframe and suspension parts, complete with some brakes and a running (iron -headed?) engine would get my ser III on the road a bit sooner. I would then rebuild the Alpine's engine later, and also the Girling brakes, and maybe the Ser 3 subframe if I can get the suspension joints. etc, etc ..... cheers Andy Ser III (on a roller frame) From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 14 15:36:12 2003 From: jumpinjan To: Whiteford Andy Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 17:32:16 -0800 Subject: Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe? Whiteford Andy wrote: > > Could somebody remind me which other "Audax A" Rootes group car(s) have the same > engine subframe and front suspension geomentry as the Alpine ? Andy, the later (series IV &V) Alpine "Front Suspension Crossmember" will fit the early (series I, II, III)Alpines. Jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 14 16:29:01 2003 From: Victor Hughes To: alpines@autox.team.net, Hillman list Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 10:18:51 +1100 Subject: Re: Front Shocks Out of curiosity, I checked with Repco for the Australian availability of Hillman/Alpine shocks. They still list a front shock but it is not held in stock - it's a special order from Monroe. Its oil filled and is priced at Aus$68.00 each! That would make it worthwhile for Aussie listers to order the shocks that Jan found from America. Vic Jan Eyerman wrote: > I just checked out a front shock sold by "Parts America" on-line. The number > is 20829. This is a mounting stud at both ends shock and is identical to the > front shocks in my '62 Hillman. Since the Hillman uses the same front end as > the Series I-III Alpine, this shock should those cars also. > > There are some differences, these are: > > 1. Shock is gas charged > > 2. Shock is painted white > > 3. Shock does not have metal dust cover > > Price is $10.99 each plus shipping (my two shocks cost just under $30 with > shipping). So, could someone out in "Sunbeamland" check this out? > > Jan Eyerman > 1962 Hillman Minx Series IIIC convertible (with new shocks all around) > 1973 Hillman Avenger DL From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 14 20:19:14 2003 From: "Mike McMahon" To: "alpine group" Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 19:14:36 -0800 Subject: first real drive... Hello Gang... Before I get into my next question for ya'll, I want to give a big THANKS to those of you who have helped me with previous problems. I drove the Alpine to work today and had the first of hopefully, many, many, many wonderful drives. My new commute to work has a 15 mile canyon road alternate...just like you see in the movies. Today, I experienced driving an Alpine!...still grinning ear to ear...there's still some rough spots but i can now see the jewel hiding beneath. recent S1 things I have discovered or fixed... -latest fix was a complete tear-down and re-build of the cooling system...during the whole drive today, including a bit of stop-and-go on the drive home, the temp hovered right around 170'...nice! -tightening bolts along the bottom of the motor might actually stop leaks -ground wires are nasty, finicky things and extremely important especially at the battery. -it's probably a good idea to check to see if the wires are crossed prior to buying a temp guage on e-bay (anybody need one in good shape?) Now, a quick question... What should my oil pressure range be?...(original motor, not sure what, if any, work has been done to it) Thanks again, Mike S1 From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 15 02:58:45 2003 From: JACranwell@aol.com To: A.G.Whiteford@gcal.ac.uk, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 04:53:33 EST Subject: Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe? Unless you're a purist, I'd stick with the later subframe assembly. The more modern ball joint type is much easier to repair and maintain, and less likely to have problems in the first place. Julian (SIII with SV Subframe) From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 15 17:33:50 2003 From: CANISDOG@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 19:28:57 EST Subject: Tiger or Alpine on AOL List, AOL today has a Pop-Up screen under aol travel that I could swear has a picture of a Tiger or GT Alpine. It only shows a half or the car for overhead so it is hard to tell. Windshield frame, dash, seat back shape and the top of the doors all say it's a Tiger. Anyone? Paul Colorado From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 15 21:24:29 2003 From: Jason Raser To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 20:19:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: Smiths Clock I found this web site http://www.speedograph-richfield.co.uk/ They make/repair Smith gauges. Jason __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 15 23:24:34 2003 From: RockStar30cars@aol.com To: tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 01:19:34 EST Subject: Stranded Tiger Not really a Tiger but 68ALGER, yes I was speeding to work and my normal turn out to avoid getting caught at light to get on the freeway (I-10 west) I thought I saw a putty cat. His fan belt came loose and I cant remember his name but I saw it didn't have the cut out for the carb but notched square then I looked at the serial number and said hey thats an Alpine number, then he told me it was a converted Alpine. It looked really nice even had the side molding. Buyer beware don't know what you get in a box of chocolate! Alvin (TopDogRover) strange to that he didn't know anyone in the Alpine or Tiger, or Hillman Club, I pointed out my CAT club sticker on the back of my SD1. He said he was from the San Deigo area. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 16 04:01:17 2003 From: PApple16@aol.com To: CANISDOG@aol.com, alpines@autox.team.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 05:56:22 -0500 Subject: Re: Tiger or Alpine on AOL have seen that pop up, not sure. I was watching a little PBS this past weekend, and saw a special on Limerock raceway up here in CT, very good documentry of the history of the track. low and behold there were quite a few alpines and tigers in the footage rangeing from 1958 to present day. special was called"Limerock hidden valley of racing" I tapped it, and have watched it 3 times. 1 car in paticular , was #28 a s2 ? complet with convertable top (down) full wind screen, and stock wheels> Paul in RI From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 16 05:36:05 2003 From: Whiteford Andy To: Alpine List Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 12:31:15 -0000 Subject: Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe? Whiteford Andy (that's ME!) wrote: > Could somebody remind me which other "Audax A" > Rootes group car(s) have the same > engine subframe and front suspension geomentry as the Alpine ? OK, i'll rephrase- I have a 1963 ser III Alpine, it's various engines and ancilliaries are all in pieces, it's (original) front suspension needs a full rebuild, and there are no front brake callipers, wheels, etc... So i'm thinking of buying a running, MOTed 1965 Hillman Minx for sale locally (# 300 ono): I'll raise the front of the car, remove the front wheels, and simply drop its subframe, complete with engine & box, onto a low trolley, and use this in my Alpine, just to get it going: questions: 1/ Does a 1965 Minx have the same x-member & suspension geometry as a ser 4 or 5 Alpine ? 2/ will the engine & box fit through the bottom of the car ? (I'd take the head & carbs, etc off) 3/ 1965 Minx- iron head I know, but 1592 or 1725cc ?? 4/ if not a minx, what should I look for (I *think* the rapier and super-minx have wrong sized suspension arms, etc.....) TIA Andy From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 16 13:06:00 2003 From: Steve Laifman To: "Tiger's Den" , Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 09:31:17 -0800 Subject: Tom Witt on Tiger Restoration Tigers and 'Pine, While frequent scribe Tom Witt has written of his experiences in his Tiger restoration, entitled "Tiger 101", it has equal application to Alpine owners in a similar situation. Tom has undertaken a massive restoration project. You know the kind where you thought it wasn't going to take much, until you started doing it. Tom has produced a well written article for TigersUnited.com, which can be found under the "Technical Tips" side bar navigation header, "Restoration Tips" hot link. This latest article link is at the end of the list of great prior restoration articles. The Restoration Tips direct link is: http://www.TigersUnited.com/tech_tips/tips_rest.asp Thanks, Tom Steve -- Steve Laifman Editor http://www.TigersUnited.com From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 16 15:17:43 2003 From: Jan Eyerman To: Whiteford Andy , Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 17:12:42 -0500 Subject: Re: [Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe?] Many of the sub-frame parts interchange between a Minx, a Husky and the Alpine BUT, the Minxes`and Husky's sit higher-so if you use a complete sub frame from a Minx or Husky, your Alpine will be going uphill all the time. The front stub axle carriers are different. Jan Eyerman Whiteford Andy wrote: Whiteford Andy (that's ME!) wrote: > Could somebody remind me which other "Audax A" > Rootes group car(s) have the same > engine subframe and front suspension geomentry as the Alpine ? OK, i'll rephrase- I have a 1963 ser III Alpine, it's various engines and ancilliaries are all in pieces, it's (original) front suspension needs a full rebuild, and there are no front brake callipers, wheels, etc... So i'm thinking of buying a running, MOTed 1965 Hillman Minx for sale locally (# 300 ono): I'll raise the front of the car, remove the front wheels, and simply drop its subframe, complete with engine & box, onto a low trolley, and use this in my Alpine, just to get it going: questions: 1/ Does a 1965 Minx have the same x-member & suspension geometry as a ser 4 or 5 Alpine ? 2/ will the engine & box fit through the bottom of the car ? (I'd take the head & carbs, etc off) 3/ 1965 Minx- iron head I know, but 1592 or 1725cc ?? 4/ if not a minx, what should I look for (I *think* the rapier and super-minx have wrong sized suspension arms, etc.....) TIA Andy From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 16 15:52:50 2003 From: "Thomas Wiencek" To: "Alpine, Message" Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 16:47:55 -0600 Subject: Interesting Sunbeam Site Check out - http://www.sovren.org/competition/rules/pcs/pcs62/PCS62%20Sunbeam%20Alpi ne%20Series%20I%20and%20II.htm Tom From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 16 16:34:10 2003 From: jumpinjan To: Alpine List Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 18:29:56 -0800 Subject: Re: Tom Witt on Tiger Restoration Hey, It looks like we are having Tigger for dinner. Yummy. http://www.TigersUnited.com/tech_tips/WittResto101/rt-WittResto101E.asp jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 16 19:15:49 2003 From: "Alkon" To: "Whiteford Andy" Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 12:23:16 +1000 Subject: Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe? Giday Andy, I am just a new arrival on the Alpine list but a long term (lifer :-)) Rootes owner. The amount of work you are asking for by trying to exchange a Minx front crossmember for the Alpine unit is more than just fixing up the original. The Alpine is allegedly the same floor pan as the Husky with an X member for strengthening and the engine mounted 4" further rearwards. Straight away I see different steering arms track rods steering box etc. If you put the same effort into rebuilding the original you would then have a good front end, where installing a different unit may still leave you with worn out bushings, ball joints etc. If your front end has wishbones and uprights and is only missing calipers and or discs, why not rebuild??? Often disc rotors and calipers need to be replaced anyway. Rebuilding suspension and mechanical bits including engines and gearboxes is the "easy" part. Getting the bodywork into satisfactory condition is where most restorations fall down. So many Vintage car rebuilds start with a chassis and drive train rebuild and are abandoned when the body part becomes "too hard". Rootes just love to make things difficult for you by changing the little things. Wouldn't mind an Alpine or Rapier to add to my 55 Californian, 56 Minx and 68 Hunter. All I need is a bigger shed :-)) Keith Johnson ----- Original Message ----- From: "Whiteford Andy" To: "Alpine List" Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 10:31 PM Subject: Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe? > Whiteford Andy (that's ME!) wrote: > > > Could somebody remind me which other "Audax A" > > Rootes group car(s) have the same > > engine subframe and front suspension geomentry as the Alpine ? > > OK, i'll rephrase- > I have a 1963 ser III Alpine, it's various engines and ancilliaries are all > in pieces, > it's (original) front suspension needs a full rebuild, and there are no > front brake callipers, wheels, etc... > > So i'm thinking of buying a running, MOTed 1965 Hillman Minx for sale > locally (# 300 ono): > I'll raise the front of the car, remove the front wheels, and simply drop > its subframe, > complete with engine & box, onto a low trolley, and use this in my Alpine, > just to get it going: > > questions: > 1/ Does a 1965 Minx have the same x-member & suspension geometry as a ser 4 > or 5 Alpine ? > 2/ will the engine & box fit through the bottom of the car ? > (I'd take the head & carbs, etc off) > 3/ 1965 Minx- iron head I know, but 1592 or 1725cc ?? > 4/ if not a minx, what should I look for > (I *think* the rapier and super-minx have wrong sized suspension arms, > etc.....) > > TIA > > Andy From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 17 09:46:15 2003 From: "Louis & Laila" To: "Jan Eyerman" , Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 09:39:18 -0700 Subject: Re: [Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe?] As I understand it, the front axle point is "Higher" on a Husky or Minx and what not (1"), because they use a larger wheel diameter. If used on an Alpine, with 13" wheels, this has the effect of lowering the front end about one inch without removing metal from the spring. This is a modification used by many vintage and SCCA solo II Tiger racers, and possibly, some Alpine competitors. My first encounter with this was an alpine that was 1" higher on a side than the other. We puzzled on this one for a time till we figured that one axle had origins other than an Alpine. Then a buddy explained that it was from another Rootes car and this was desirable if you had a matched set. Lou ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jan Eyerman" To: "Whiteford Andy" ; "Alpine List" Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 3:12 PM Subject: Re: [Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe?] > Many of the sub-frame parts interchange between a Minx, a Husky and the Alpine > BUT, the Minxes`and Husky's sit higher-so if you use a complete sub frame from > a Minx or Husky, your Alpine will be going uphill all the time. The front > stub axle carriers are different. > > Jan Eyerman > > > > > > > > > Whiteford Andy wrote: > Whiteford Andy (that's ME!) wrote: > > > Could somebody remind me which other "Audax A" > > Rootes group car(s) have the same > > engine subframe and front suspension geomentry as the Alpine ? > > OK, i'll rephrase- > I have a 1963 ser III Alpine, it's various engines and ancilliaries are all > in pieces, > it's (original) front suspension needs a full rebuild, and there are no > front brake callipers, wheels, etc... > > So i'm thinking of buying a running, MOTed 1965 Hillman Minx for sale > locally (# 300 ono): > I'll raise the front of the car, remove the front wheels, and simply drop > its subframe, > complete with engine & box, onto a low trolley, and use this in my Alpine, > just to get it going: > > questions: > 1/ Does a 1965 Minx have the same x-member & suspension geometry as a ser 4 > or 5 Alpine ? > 2/ will the engine & box fit through the bottom of the car ? > (I'd take the head & carbs, etc off) > 3/ 1965 Minx- iron head I know, but 1592 or 1725cc ?? > 4/ if not a minx, what should I look for > (I *think* the rapier and super-minx have wrong sized suspension arms, > etc.....) > > TIA > > Andy From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 17 12:46:20 2003 From: "Espen Holm" To: Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 20:41:24 +0100 Subject: Wheel trim Hello, I was hoping that someone out there could help find a wheel trim like this: http://home.c2i.net/w-466076/bilder/bilde0~3.jpg I miss one or two... Thanks, Espen From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 17 14:19:27 2003 From: eric To: Espen Holm Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 15:14:23 -0600 Subject: Re: Wheel trim Can you say 72 Pinto ???? Espen Holm wrote: > Hello, > > I was hoping that someone out there could help find a wheel trim like this: > http://home.c2i.net/w-466076/bilder/bilde0~3.jpg > > I miss one or two... > > Thanks, > > Espen From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 17 15:15:45 2003 From: "Russ Eshelman" To: "Louis & Laila" , "Jan Eyerman" Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 17:18:39 -0500 Subject: Re: [Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe?] Lou, I thought that it was the series V or VI Minx's that the Alpine/Tiger people were looking for to do the switch in order to lower the front end. I had thought about trying it on my Alpine but hadn't found a later series Minx being parted out. Are you saying that it is the 15" wheeled cars rather than the 13"? That would be great, cause I have an extra '59 Husky cross member that I could use. Thanks for the tip Lou! Russ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Louis & Laila" To: "Jan Eyerman" ; "Whiteford Andy" ; "Alpine List" Sent: Friday, January 17, 2003 11:39 AM Subject: Re: [Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe?] > As I understand it, the front axle point is "Higher" on a Husky or Minx and > what not (1"), because they use a larger wheel diameter. If used on an > Alpine, with 13" wheels, this has the effect of lowering the front end about > one inch without removing metal from the spring. This is a modification used > by many vintage and SCCA solo II Tiger racers, and possibly, some Alpine > competitors. My first encounter with this was an alpine that was 1" higher > on a side than the other. We puzzled on this one for a time till we figured > that one axle had origins other than an Alpine. Then a buddy explained that > it was from another Rootes car and this was desirable if you had a matched > set. Lou > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jan Eyerman" > To: "Whiteford Andy" ; "Alpine List" > > Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 3:12 PM > Subject: Re: [Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe?] > > > > Many of the sub-frame parts interchange between a Minx, a Husky and the > Alpine > > BUT, the Minxes`and Husky's sit higher-so if you use a complete sub frame > from > > a Minx or Husky, your Alpine will be going uphill all the time. The front > > stub axle carriers are different. > > > > Jan Eyerman > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Whiteford Andy wrote: > > Whiteford Andy (that's ME!) wrote: > > > > > Could somebody remind me which other "Audax A" > > > Rootes group car(s) have the same > > > engine subframe and front suspension geomentry as the Alpine ? > > > > OK, i'll rephrase- > > I have a 1963 ser III Alpine, it's various engines and ancilliaries are > all > > in pieces, > > it's (original) front suspension needs a full rebuild, and there are no > > front brake callipers, wheels, etc... > > > > So i'm thinking of buying a running, MOTed 1965 Hillman Minx for sale > > locally (# 300 ono): > > I'll raise the front of the car, remove the front wheels, and simply drop > > its subframe, > > complete with engine & box, onto a low trolley, and use this in my Alpine, > > just to get it going: > > > > questions: > > 1/ Does a 1965 Minx have the same x-member & suspension geometry as a ser > 4 > > or 5 Alpine ? > > 2/ will the engine & box fit through the bottom of the car ? > > (I'd take the head & carbs, etc off) > > 3/ 1965 Minx- iron head I know, but 1592 or 1725cc ?? > > 4/ if not a minx, what should I look for > > (I *think* the rapier and super-minx have wrong sized suspension arms, > > etc.....) > > > > TIA > > > > Andy From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 17 17:07:01 2003 From: GSTROM99@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 19:01:43 EST Subject: Re: Wheel trim I agree, looks like it's from a Pinto to me. One question, though. Is that Duct Tape on the fender? gs From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 17 18:40:12 2003 From: "Louis & Laila" To: "Russ Eshelman" , Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 18:31:03 -0700 Subject: Re: [Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe?] Russ, I am not exactly certain which cars the correct spindles come from, though I am sure you could find it at Tigersunited .com. I DO know that the 59 Husky will not be compatible with a series 4 or 5 Alpine because the husky uses a king pin, while the later Alpines use ball joints. In this case, you would also need the correct lower A arms, while the uppers could be whatever you prefer. I am sure someone on this list knows exactly what I am talking about and can give you the nitty gritty details. I was speaking in generalities just to enhance the discussion. You could also look at it like I was running my mouth without getting my pooh pooh together. Lastly, if you want to know for sure, contact Dan Walters or Dale Ackajewski (sp?) They perform this mod to their race tigers. Hope that helps. Lou ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russ Eshelman" To: "Louis & Laila" ; "Jan Eyerman" ; "Whiteford Andy" ; "Alpine List" Sent: Friday, January 17, 2003 3:18 PM Subject: Re: [Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe?] > Lou, I thought that it was the series V or VI Minx's that the Alpine/Tiger > people were looking for to do the switch in order to lower the front end. I > had thought about trying it on my Alpine but hadn't found a later series > Minx being parted out. Are you saying that it is the 15" wheeled cars > rather than the 13"? That would be great, cause I have an extra '59 Husky > cross member that I could use. Thanks for the tip Lou! > Russ > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Louis & Laila" > To: "Jan Eyerman" ; "Whiteford Andy" > ; "Alpine List" > Sent: Friday, January 17, 2003 11:39 AM > Subject: Re: [Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe?] > > > > As I understand it, the front axle point is "Higher" on a Husky or Minx > and > > what not (1"), because they use a larger wheel diameter. If used on an > > Alpine, with 13" wheels, this has the effect of lowering the front end > about > > one inch without removing metal from the spring. This is a modification > used > > by many vintage and SCCA solo II Tiger racers, and possibly, some Alpine > > competitors. My first encounter with this was an alpine that was 1" higher > > on a side than the other. We puzzled on this one for a time till we > figured > > that one axle had origins other than an Alpine. Then a buddy explained > that > > it was from another Rootes car and this was desirable if you had a matched > > set. Lou > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Jan Eyerman" > > To: "Whiteford Andy" ; "Alpine List" > > > > Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 3:12 PM > > Subject: Re: [Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe?] > > > > > > > Many of the sub-frame parts interchange between a Minx, a Husky and the > > Alpine > > > BUT, the Minxes`and Husky's sit higher-so if you use a complete sub > frame > > from > > > a Minx or Husky, your Alpine will be going uphill all the time. The > front > > > stub axle carriers are different. > > > > > > Jan Eyerman > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Whiteford Andy wrote: > > > Whiteford Andy (that's ME!) wrote: > > > > > > > Could somebody remind me which other "Audax A" > > > > Rootes group car(s) have the same > > > > engine subframe and front suspension geomentry as the Alpine ? > > > > > > OK, i'll rephrase- > > > I have a 1963 ser III Alpine, it's various engines and ancilliaries are > > all > > > in pieces, > > > it's (original) front suspension needs a full rebuild, and there are no > > > front brake callipers, wheels, etc... > > > > > > So i'm thinking of buying a running, MOTed 1965 Hillman Minx for sale > > > locally (# 300 ono): > > > I'll raise the front of the car, remove the front wheels, and simply > drop > > > its subframe, > > > complete with engine & box, onto a low trolley, and use this in my > Alpine, > > > just to get it going: > > > > > > questions: > > > 1/ Does a 1965 Minx have the same x-member & suspension geometry as a > ser > > 4 > > > or 5 Alpine ? > > > 2/ will the engine & box fit through the bottom of the car ? > > > (I'd take the head & carbs, etc off) > > > 3/ 1965 Minx- iron head I know, but 1592 or 1725cc ?? > > > 4/ if not a minx, what should I look for > > > (I *think* the rapier and super-minx have wrong sized suspension > arms, > > > etc.....) > > > > > > TIA > > > > > > Andy From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 17 22:30:33 2003 From: "Kevin McLemore" To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 00:25:06 -0500 Subject: Supercharged Alpine? Hmmm... I wonder if anyone's ever put one of these on an Alpine? Think it would fit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item=2400538364 -Kevin McLemore 1967 Alpine SV (usual caveats apply.. no relation to the seller, etc.) _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 18 09:24:37 2003 From: "DrMayf" To: "Kevin McLemore" , Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 08:25:48 -0800 Subject: Re: Supercharged Alpine? Kevin, unless you are looking for nostalgia look then a small turbo would be far better, IMHO. The Judson is a positive displacement rotary vane air pump. They were ok for small displacement motors as fas as I knew but being belt driven, they put a side load on the crank snout as do all bolwers. MAy or may not be a problem. But definitely a cool factor! mayf ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin McLemore" To: Sent: Friday, January 17, 2003 9:25 PM Subject: Supercharged Alpine? > Hmmm... I wonder if anyone's ever put one of these on an Alpine? Think it > would fit? > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item =2400538364 > > -Kevin McLemore > 1967 Alpine SV > (usual caveats apply.. no relation to the seller, etc.) > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 18 10:03:47 2003 From: "Kevin McLemore" To: drmayf@teknett.com Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 11:57:31 -0500 Subject: Re: Supercharged Alpine? Thanks, mayf! Yeah, I agree that a turbo would be better in terms of efficiency, but then there is that 'lag' factor to deal with too.. there's nothing like the instant-on power of a supercharger and they give incredible amounts of power at low RPM's. I have a brand new Judson that fits Austin/MG A-series motors - Haddon Judson gave it to me many, many years ago - but I've never fitted it to a car yet, so it's still in the original box.... wonder what *that's* worth on eBay? (ha!). Oh, well, perhaps I'll use it on my Morris Minor someday! But the unit I have is too small for an Alpine engine - the MGA/MGB unit is a better size as that was an 1800cc motor, similar to our 1725's. I do like that fact that it's a 'peroiod correct' item - I'm kind of an historic originality freak - but my main concern is that it wouldn't fit at all as the carb does sit fairly far back and may interfere with the steering box & brake master. -kbm ----Original Message Follows---- From: "DrMayf" To: "Kevin McLemore" , Subject: Re: Supercharged Alpine? Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 08:25:48 -0800 Kevin, unless you are looking for nostalgia look then a small turbo would be far better, IMHO. The Judson is a positive displacement rotary vane air pump. They were ok for small displacement motors as fas as I knew but being belt driven, they put a side load on the crank snout as do all bolwers. MAy or may not be a problem. But definitely a cool factor! mayf ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin McLemore" To: Sent: Friday, January 17, 2003 9:25 PM Subject: Supercharged Alpine? > Hmmm... I wonder if anyone's ever put one of these on an Alpine? Think it > would fit? > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item =2400538364 > > -Kevin McLemore > 1967 Alpine SV > (usual caveats apply.. no relation to the seller, etc.) > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. > > _________________________________________________________________ From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 18 13:24:43 2003 From: RSWiser@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 15:19:26 EST Subject: Radiator Overflow I am about finished with my rebuild of my Series I. I need to come up with some sort of radiator overflow tank. Anybody have any good suggestions. Probably something tall and skinny. Rob From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 18 20:46:17 2003 From: ellis838@concentric.net To: "alpines@autox.team.net" Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 22:40:17 -0500 Subject: Re: Radiator Overflow I used a windshield washer bottle from a MG on my SV complete with the mounting bracket. Jim E RSWiser@aol.com wrote: >I am about finished with my rebuild of my Series I. >I need to come up with some sort of radiator overflow tank. Anybody have any >good suggestions. Probably something tall and skinny. >Rob > >. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 18 21:04:42 2003 From: "Ohan Korlikian" To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 19:59:27 -0800 Subject: Alternative: S V Steering wheel Hi all, I'm looking at replacing my current 15" steering wheel with a smaller size. The reason being is that the 15" steering wheel is making it somewhat awkward for a 6'2" tall person to get in and out of the car. Ideally, I think a 13" steering wheel would do the trick nicely. I like the look of the Derrington Wooden wheel but do they make them in a smaller size? Any suggestions as to what's compatible for my S-V (with an adjustable column)?????? Ohan Korlikian Vancouver, BC '64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX (to be completed next century) '67 Series V Alpine B395009458 LRX (coming soon) www.sunbeamcanada.org _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 06:14:31 2003 From: Ron Tebo To: RSWiser@aol.com Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 06:15:10 -0700 Subject: Re: Radiator Overflow Rob: Several months ago, I got tired of the way my series I was marking its territory, and used a tall skinny 750 ml. honey bottle which just fits in the corner beside the horn. Translucent, required only a minute to drill a hose-sized hole in the top, and is held adequately in place by a cable tie on its hose. (also can't beat the price, but much less professional than Jim's suggestion!). Ron Tebo RSWiser@aol.com wrote: > > I am about finished with my rebuild of my Series I. > I need to come up with some sort of radiator overflow tank. Anybody have any > good suggestions. Probably something tall and skinny. > Rob From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 07:00:49 2003 From: "Espen Holm" To: , Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 14:55:32 +0100 Subject: Re: Wheel trim Yes, thats duct tape! http://home.c2i.net/w-466076/bilder.html The duct tape is ther eto cover an antenna hole - or at least a hole. It's a series V/1967. Found it on the internet, and it was imported from California to Norway in june 1997. Definitely wasn't a WYSIWYG...., however after spending may hours and a lot money it now at least runs... Where do I find wheeltrims for Pinto 72??? Any suggestions? I don't even know what a Pinto looks like. I'm experimenting on building a web site for the first time, unexperienced with HTML as I am its yet not very impressive. Espen ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 1:01 AM Subject: Re: Wheel trim > I agree, looks like it's from a Pinto to me. > One question, though. > > Is that Duct Tape on the fender? > > gs From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 10:13:53 2003 From: ellis838@concentric.net To: "alpines@autox.team.net" Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 12:07:44 -0500 Subject: Re: SV: "Hillman - " Clean a carburettor! result I have used Vanish toilet bowl cleaner the heavy duty concentrated version, but it was years ago and not sure the same stuff is still around. Worked well but I think it would dissolve a carb away if you left it in to long, nice thing is you can put it down the toilet when you are done... Nothing like glass beading an aluminum part they look great when you are done but it sure does not last on these oil leaking beasts. Jim E KKJ wrote: >This message forwarded by the Hillman List. > >>Keith >>55 Californian >> >says: > >>Don't we all dream of this "magic" cleaner. >> > >Yes, yes, yes!!! (oh lord can you give me a......) > >>My experience has been there is no easy way. >> > >Back to square one!! > >>>Ron >>> >says: > >>>Re the Turco Transpar (orTurco TRANSPO Cat No. 15205 ), I used to get it for cleaning model aeroplane engines. >>> > >This may be it!!! > >Another tip from the model aeroplane engines people was to cook it in radiator antifreeze. >Did not work for me. > >I do have a friend who can do "light" blasting job for me, and in the end I have to visit him. I just can't go to him for every single little piece of dirty alloy. He has cleaned some alloy 1725 and Imp heads for me and they look like new. They look so good I can't put them back on the engines again. > >Kristian J > > > >==================================================================== >Please address all replies to messages from the Hillman List to: > > hillman@can-inc.com > >This will assure that all members of this list will benefit from the >information in your reply. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 10:57:41 2003 From: "Jon A." To: Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 11:52:04 -0600 Subject: Genuine Sunbeam Funwagon on eBay Hey Listers! Here's a rare chance to buy a real Sunbeam Funwagon. He's way off on the number imported, but they are a rare sight, especially in the original paint. Worth a look at least! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2400658899&cat egory=6727 Pity he changed the drivetrain, but I bet it's a good bit faster now! The usual disclaimers apply, no connection to the seller, etc. etc. etc. Jon Arzt Omaha, NE USA [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of =?iso-8859-1?Q?eBay_Motors_item_2400658899_=28Ends_Jan-23-03=A0153508_P?= =?iso-8859-1?Q?ST_=29_-_verry_rare_sunbeam_funwagon_mini_motor_home.url?=] From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 13:50:29 2003 From: "Espen Holm" To: Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 21:45:07 +0100 Subject: Re: Wheel trim Hey, I've just purchased 4 off wheel covers identical to mine on eBay. Fantastic how that thing works! I never visited eBay before. I made a search, found a set of wheel covers identical to mine and purchased them! $12! Simple as that! A friend of mine in California will pick'em up and ship them over. I'm excited! Wow! Thanks everybody for your feedback! Espen ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Blue" To: "Espen Holm" Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 9:36 PM Subject: Re: Wheel trim > > Espen, no need to know what a Pinto looks like. It was a small car built by > Ford, from about 1971 to 1980. It became famous in the states as the car > that would bust into flames when hit in the rear, although it seems owners > liked them. There are a few fanatics in the U.S. dedicated to keeping them > running. They have a website at www.fordpinto.com They have a classifieds > section you can brouse, but you will probably have to register on their > board to post a request. Still, that's probably the best place to start. > > Bill > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Espen Holm" > To: ; > Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 8:55 AM > Subject: Re: Wheel trim > > > > Yes, thats duct tape! http://home.c2i.net/w-466076/bilder.html > > The duct tape is ther eto cover an antenna hole - or at least a hole. > > It's a series V/1967. Found it on the internet, and it was imported from > > California to Norway in june 1997. Definitely wasn't a WYSIWYG...., > however > > after spending may hours and a lot money it now at least runs... > > > > Where do I find wheeltrims for Pinto 72??? Any suggestions? I don't even > > know what a Pinto looks like. > > > > I'm experimenting on building a web site for the first time, unexperienced > > with HTML as I am its yet not very impressive. > > > > Espen > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: > > To: > > Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 1:01 AM > > Subject: Re: Wheel trim > > > > > > > I agree, looks like it's from a Pinto to me. > > > One question, though. > > > > > > Is that Duct Tape on the fender? > > > > > > gs From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 13:53:24 2003 From: Alex McGregor To: alpines Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 14:49:31 -0600 Subject: Towing Dolly Would any of you consider using a tow dolly to move an Alpine 1000 miles. If so, what spare parts would you carry: wheel bearings, seals? I'm thinking of buying one a long way away and the biggest vehicle I own would have trouble handling an Alpine on a trailer. Thanks in advance Al From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 14:28:26 2003 From: jumpinjan To: Alex McGregor Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 16:23:44 -0800 Subject: Re: Towing Dolly Alex, Towing dollies are very reliable. I towed my Lemans from St. Paul to Dayton with no problem. I would bring some some reliable Alpine wheels w/good rubber to put on the rear, disconnect the drive shaft (very easy to do) and make sure there's oil in the rear end. Jan Servaites From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 14:40:33 2003 From: "d.b" To: alpine list Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 13:35:26 -0800 Subject: throttle shafts. A while ago I bought throttle shafts for the 150cd's. However, they need to be cut and/or threaded to match the distictly different shafts from my strombergs. I am not going pass emissions without them and I have not the tools to do the work. The questions is: Does anyone sell them ready to go? dgb SV From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 15:14:10 2003 From: Jan Eyerman To: jumpinjan , Alex McGregor Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 17:08:48 -0500 Subject: Re: [Re: Towing Dolly] Biggest danger would be a rear wheel bearing failing and locking up a wheel. Jan jumpinjan wrote: Alex, Towing dollies are very reliable. I towed my Lemans from St. Paul to Dayton with no problem. I would bring some some reliable Alpine wheels w/good rubber to put on the rear, disconnect the drive shaft (very easy to do) and make sure there's oil in the rear end. Jan Servaites From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 16:25:40 2003 From: John Slade To: "List, Alpine" Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 18:20:38 -0500 Subject: Re: Towing Dolly Alex, I did exactly what Jan Servaites has just suggested when I used a tow dolly for moving my Alpine from extreme South Eastern Missouri to Ottawa, ON a few years ago. Around a thousand miles. Worked like a charm. John Slade Manotick, ON From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 16:31:40 2003 From: "Eric Gibeaut" To: "List, Alpine" Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 18:25:43 -0500 Subject: Re: [Re: Towing Dolly] Tow dollies work just fine-I have hauled mine many thousands of miles. Something else to think about-if there is ANY reason to believe that the brakes may be seized up or even close to seized- remove the rear brake shoes and adjuster assemblies before towing. Nothing quite like trying to remove some red hot rear brake drums and shoes in the pouring rain at a roadside rest area after towing a Sunbeam only 12 miles.....great character building exercise though! Oh yeah-don't tow a wire wheel car backwards with the front wheels on the ground-that tends to loosen up the knock offs. Good luck! Eric From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 16:56:15 2003 From: "Alkon" To: "Alpine list" Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 10:03:16 +1000 Subject: Re: [Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe?] Asked this question on the Hillman list. It appears that the series 5/6 Minx front uprights have the axle 5/8" higher than the Alpine part. This equals 5/8" lower ride with same springs used. I would suspect that the upright could be swapped using the stock wishbones. Front crossmembers swap easilly between different year Minx. Swapped a later Super minx crossmember (ball joints and discs) for the king pin unit in a 57 Minx. The steering tie rod ends were different but just used the ends from the Super minx (65) on the original steering components from the 57.. Alpine steering boxes and track rod arrangements are different to the Minx range to allow for the different driving position and the engine being mounted about 4" further back. The original query on this topic was on swapping the entire front end from a Minx to the Alpine. My thoughts are use the existing crossmember and wishbones with the original uprights or substitutes from the series 5/6 Minx. If you are doing this much work you would want to replace all the bushings and ball joints anyway, as well as fitting new wheel bearings and reconditioned or new disc rotors. Having done it all right the first time you will not need to touch it again. Patching poor original repair work is soul destroying besides this a loose front end takes away your driving pleasure :-)) Keith Johnson 55 Californian ----- Original Message ----- From: "Louis & Laila" To: "Jan Eyerman" ; "Whiteford Andy" ; "Alpine List" Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 2:39 AM Subject: Re: [Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe?] > As I understand it, the front axle point is "Higher" on a Husky or Minx and > what not (1"), because they use a larger wheel diameter. If used on an > Alpine, with 13" wheels, this has the effect of lowering the front end about > one inch without removing metal from the spring. This is a modification used > by many vintage and SCCA solo II Tiger racers, and possibly, some Alpine > competitors. My first encounter with this was an alpine that was 1" higher > on a side than the other. We puzzled on this one for a time till we figured > that one axle had origins other than an Alpine. Then a buddy explained that > it was from another Rootes car and this was desirable if you had a matched > set. Lou > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jan Eyerman" > To: "Whiteford Andy" ; "Alpine List" > > Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 3:12 PM > Subject: Re: [Re: other Rootes cars with Alpine subframe?] > > > > Many of the sub-frame parts interchange between a Minx, a Husky and the > Alpine > > BUT, the Minxes`and Husky's sit higher-so if you use a complete sub frame > from > > a Minx or Husky, your Alpine will be going uphill all the time. The front > > stub axle carriers are different. > > > > Jan Eyerman > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Whiteford Andy wrote: > > Whiteford Andy (that's ME!) wrote: > > > > > Could somebody remind me which other "Audax A" > > > Rootes group car(s) have the same > > > engine subframe and front suspension geomentry as the Alpine ? > > > > OK, i'll rephrase- > > I have a 1963 ser III Alpine, it's various engines and ancilliaries are > all > > in pieces, > > it's (original) front suspension needs a full rebuild, and there are no > > front brake callipers, wheels, etc... > > > > So i'm thinking of buying a running, MOTed 1965 Hillman Minx for sale > > locally (# 300 ono): > > I'll raise the front of the car, remove the front wheels, and simply drop > > its subframe, > > complete with engine & box, onto a low trolley, and use this in my Alpine, > > just to get it going: > > > > questions: > > 1/ Does a 1965 Minx have the same x-member & suspension geometry as a ser > 4 > > or 5 Alpine ? > > 2/ will the engine & box fit through the bottom of the car ? > > (I'd take the head & carbs, etc off) > > 3/ 1965 Minx- iron head I know, but 1592 or 1725cc ?? > > 4/ if not a minx, what should I look for > > (I *think* the rapier and super-minx have wrong sized suspension arms, > > etc.....) > > > > TIA > > > > Andy From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 17:36:12 2003 From: jumpinjan To: Eric Gibeaut Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 19:31:21 -0800 Subject: Re: [Re: Towing Dolly] Eric Gibeaut wrote: > > Tow dollies work just fine-I have hauled mine many thousands of miles. > Something else to think about-if there is ANY reason to believe that the > brakes may be seized up or even close to seized- remove the rear brake shoes That's a good point Eric. If the car has been sitting for a LONG time, the metal under the shoe lining will rust and the rust will expand the linings out into the drums. You will know when this happens. Don't pry off the drums with pry bars immediately, but instead back off as much of the adjuster as you can and then try removing them. I have seen this happen on just about every car that Ian and I have bought. Jan PS: And never use those brake shoes ever again, but don't throw them away! If you want, mail them to Doug Jennings because he saves them for cores and has them relined. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 19:36:26 2003 From: GSTROM99@aol.com To: awmcgregor@shaw.ca, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 21:30:54 EST Subject: Re: Towing Dolly I would have to disagree with my esteem colleges. I would search out a good 4 wheel trailer and maybe a tow vehicle (U-Haul has 'em here as a pickup and trailer). That way there is NO worry about the car you buy. You could even fly there, arrange the rental and then just go. Gary From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 19:50:24 2003 From: "Kevin McLemore" To: d.b@shaw.ca, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 21:43:54 -0500 Subject: Re: throttle shafts. Hey, dgb - Don't know who sells them 'ready to go' but re the threading you'll need to find someone who can do Whitworth & British Standard threads, because virtually all British carbs (S.U., Zenith, Zenith Stromberg, etc.) were never converted to the newer NSF thread sizing. -kbm ----Original Message Follows---- From: "d.b" Reply-To: "d.b" To: alpine list Subject: throttle shafts. Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 13:35:26 -0800 A while ago I bought throttle shafts for the 150cd's. However, they need to be cut and/or threaded to match the distictly different shafts from my strombergs. I am not going pass emissions without them and I have not the tools to do the work. The questions is: Does anyone sell them ready to go? dgb SV _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE* From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 19 23:32:05 2003 From: ssage@socal.rr.com To: Tiger Mailing List , Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 18:30:32 -0800 Subject: Stop This My brake lights started to work intermittently a few days ago. I had replaced the switch a few months ago and it worked fine for a while. I took out the switch (in the engine compartment), wiped off the fluid, and hit the switch on the pavement a few times. I re-installed the switch and now the brake lights work perfectly! Exacly why this worked, I don't know, but I thought I'd try it, short of ordering a new switch. It worked! Steve Sage 1967 Tiger MK1A From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 20 05:58:07 2003 From: Ron Tebo To: Steve Laifman Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 05:58:38 -0700 Subject: Re: Tom Witt on Tiger Restoration All: I would highly recommend this article, as Tom sets an example for us all! Constructing his own tools, searching widely for parts, working through problems, trying innovative solutions (like the roasted rear), and finally, having the patience to learn to do the job well. If you ignored this because you are an Alpine owner, you should reconsider. Ron Tebo Steve Laifman wrote: > > Tigers and 'Pine, > > While frequent scribe Tom Witt has written of his experiences in his > Tiger restoration, entitled "Tiger 101", it has equal application to > Alpine owners in a similar situation. > > Tom has undertaken a massive restoration project. You know the kind > where you thought it wasn't going to take much, until you started doing > it. Tom has produced a well written article for TigersUnited.com, which > can be found under the "Technical Tips" side bar navigation header, > "Restoration Tips" hot link. This latest article link is at the end of > the list of great prior restoration articles. > > The Restoration Tips direct link is: > > http://www.TigersUnited.com/tech_tips/tips_rest.asp > > Thanks, Tom > > Steve > > -- > > Steve Laifman > Editor > http://www.TigersUnited.com From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 20 07:10:21 2003 From: jumpinjan To: Ron Tebo , Ian -org , Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 09:05:36 -0800 Subject: Re: Tom Witt on Tiger Restoration Ron Tebo wrote: > > All: > > I would highly recommend this article, as Tom sets an example for us all! > Constructing his own tools, searching widely for parts, working through > problems, trying innovative solutions (like the roasted rear), > and finally, having the patience to learn to do the job well. If you > ignored this because you are an Alpine owner, you should reconsider. Yea, like using a sledge hammer on the axle to remove the wheel hubs? Believe it or not, here are tools available to do that job in a more elegant fashion. Personally, I believe Alpines do not deserve that kind of treatment ever. Jan Servaites From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 20 21:13:25 2003 From: "Jon A." To: "jumpinjan" , Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 22:07:34 -0600 Subject: Re: Towing Dolly And check the regulations in the states you are travelling through just to be safe. According to U-Haul, (when I moved from the east coast to Nebraska) some states require a car be registered and insured if any part of it is rolling on the roadway. Talk about fundraising! Jon Arzt Omaha, NE USA ----- Original Message ----- From: "jumpinjan" To: "Alex McGregor" Cc: "alpines" Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 6:23 PM Subject: Re: Towing Dolly > Alex, > Towing dollies are very reliable. I towed my Lemans from St. Paul to > Dayton with no problem. I would bring some some reliable Alpine wheels > w/good rubber to put on the rear, disconnect the drive shaft (very easy > to do) and make sure there's oil in the rear end. > Jan Servaites From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 21 06:24:40 2003 From: "Louis & Laila" To: "Jon A." , "jumpinjan" , Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 06:16:28 -0700 Subject: Re: Towing Dolly Same in Kalifornia and they enforce the hell out of it! Cost me $187. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jon A." To: "jumpinjan" ; "Alex McGregor" Cc: "alpines" Sent: Monday, January 20, 2003 9:07 PM Subject: Re: Towing Dolly > And check the regulations in the states you are travelling through just to > be safe. According to U-Haul, (when I moved from the east coast to Nebraska) > some states require a car be registered and insured if any part of it is > rolling on the roadway. Talk about fundraising! > > Jon Arzt > Omaha, NE USA > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "jumpinjan" > To: "Alex McGregor" > Cc: "alpines" > Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 6:23 PM > Subject: Re: Towing Dolly > > > > Alex, > > Towing dollies are very reliable. I towed my Lemans from St. Paul to > > Dayton with no problem. I would bring some some reliable Alpine wheels > > w/good rubber to put on the rear, disconnect the drive shaft (very easy > > to do) and make sure there's oil in the rear end. > > Jan Servaites From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 23 22:43:18 2003 From: "Ohan Korlikian" To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 21:43:02 -0800 Subject: Transmission Fluid: SV Greeting, Just want your imput as to what are the best brands out there for transmission fluid for my S-V. Also, rear axle fluid. Ohan Korlikian Vancouver, BC '64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX (To be completed next century) '67 Series V Alpine B395009458 LRX www.sunbeamcanada.org _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 23 22:52:56 2003 From: ellis838@concentric.net To: "alpines@autox.team.net" Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 00:51:54 -0500 Subject: Re: Transmission Fluid: SV I just use the cheap non detergent stuff in the transmission as fast as it leaks out I figure it is good enough, sure is not in there very long. Jim E Ohan Korlikian wrote: >Greeting, > >Just want your imput as to what are the best brands out there for >transmission fluid for my S-V. > >Also, rear axle fluid. > > > >Ohan Korlikian >Vancouver, BC >'64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX (To be completed next century) >'67 Series V Alpine B395009458 LRX >www.sunbeamcanada.org > > > > > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* > >. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 24 14:27:39 2003 From: "barbara laifman" To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 08:17:32 -0800 Subject: Re: Alpines Digest V1 #348 Iwrote: > > << Lockheed wrote me and told me that the original booster for the > Alpine was 3:1. The one that Sunbeam Specialties sells is 2.3:1. >> Dick responded: > Just so I'm clear on this, which booster was Lockheed discussing? The small > Girling boosters on Series III, IV and early V, the larger Girling booster on > later Series V's, the Lockheed unit used on the Arrow/Hunter Range (including > the fastback Alpine), or one of the aftermarket Lockheed boosters? Lockheed was discussing my request about the correct booster for a Series V. I asked what was correct for my Series V, they indicated the current 3:1 as the correct one. I did not specify, nor did they, a particular booster that came on the car. Jay From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 24 17:23:31 2003 From: "Ohan ." To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 16:22:59 -0800 Subject: Duty on Alpines Just thought i'd share this bit of wonderful (being sarcastic) news. When I brought my newly aquired S-V into Canada on Thursday, I was prepared to pay the Goods & Services Tax (GST). I had no plans on paying duty. My understanding was that any vehicle over 25 was exempt. This was definatelty true when I brought my S-IV across a year and a half ago. Well, surprise, surprise, surprise. Gotta pay duty. 6.1% and the GST. I just thought i'd share this with you and if you are considering on bringing an Alpine to Canada be prepared. I have contacted various members at the Customs office to ensure that this is correct. Apparently, only vehicles (over 25 years old) manufactured in Canada/US/Mexico are exempt. Good old free trade eh? If anyone can prove Canada Customs wrong, I would appreciate hearing from you. I have 6.1% reasons to get my money back. Ohan Korlikian Vancouver, BC '64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX (To be completed next century) '67 Series V Alpine B395009458 LRX www.sunbeamcanada.org _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 24 19:59:28 2003 From: "Alkon" To: "Alpine list" Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 13:11:34 +1000 Subject: Re: Duty on Alpines One little gem you most likely have not considered. The "value" of the Alpine is the original cost price less depreciation. This is how government people work it out on newer vehicles for import. Depreciated "value" is the only price they should put on your car regardless of what you may have paid for it. :-)) After 30+ years depreciated value makes the duty, GST etc small change stuff surely. Keith 55 Californian ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ohan ." To: Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 10:22 AM Subject: Duty on Alpines > Just thought i'd share this bit of wonderful (being sarcastic) news. > > When I brought my newly aquired S-V into Canada on Thursday, I was prepared > to pay the Goods & Services Tax (GST). I had no plans on paying duty. My > understanding was that any vehicle over 25 was exempt. This was definatelty > true when I brought my S-IV across a year and a half ago. > > Well, surprise, surprise, surprise. Gotta pay duty. 6.1% and the GST. I just > thought i'd share this with you and if you are considering on bringing an > Alpine to Canada be prepared. > > I have contacted various members at the Customs office to ensure that this > is correct. Apparently, only vehicles (over 25 years old) manufactured in > Canada/US/Mexico are exempt. Good old free trade eh? > > If anyone can prove Canada Customs wrong, I would appreciate hearing from > you. I have 6.1% reasons to get my money back. > > > > Ohan Korlikian > Vancouver, BC > '64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX (To be completed next century) > '67 Series V Alpine B395009458 LRX > www.sunbeamcanada.org > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 07:12:18 2003 From: Chris Mottram To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 06:11:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: 1938 Hillman I saw a cool looking 1938 Hillman Minx drop head on ebay. If I was in the UK, I may have a new stable mate for the Alpine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2192&item=2908760670&rd=1 Chris __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 15:16:15 2003 From: "Ohan ." To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 14:15:40 -0800 Subject: Champion spark plugs Following the manual for my S-V which states using Champion spark plugs "N9C" and confirming this with most of the listers, I went to the local shop and all I could find were "RN9YC". Are these two one and the same? When I removed the plugs off the alpine "NGK BP6ES" and compared them with "RN9YC" they seem to be similar. I installed one in and it fit fine. I'm just not sure if I should start the car yet. Any suggestions??? Ohan Korlikian Vancouver, BC '64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX (To be completed next century) '67 Series V Alpine B395009458 LRX www.sunbeamcanada.org _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 15:28:52 2003 From: "stan gorski" To: yvrcanada@hotmail.com Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 17:28:19 -0500 Subject: Re: Champion spark plugs Ohan, In all my years of automobilia, I never had luck with champion plugs. At least in an alpine they are easy to remove. stan gorski >From: "Ohan ." >Reply-To: "Ohan ." >To: alpines@autox.team.net >Subject: Champion spark plugs >Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 14:15:40 -0800 > >Following the manual for my S-V which states using Champion spark plugs >"N9C" and confirming this with most of the listers, I went to the local >shop >and all I could find were "RN9YC". Are these two one and the same? > >When I removed the plugs off the alpine "NGK BP6ES" and compared them with >"RN9YC" they seem to be similar. I installed one in and it fit fine. I'm >just not sure if I should start the car yet. > >Any suggestions??? > > > >Ohan Korlikian >Vancouver, BC >'64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX (To be completed next century) >'67 Series V Alpine B395009458 LRX >www.sunbeamcanada.org > > > > > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 16:43:02 2003 From: jumpinjan To: "Ohan ." Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 18:43:04 -0800 Subject: Re: Champion spark plugs "Ohan ." wrote: > > Following the manual for my S-V which states using Champion spark plugs > "N9C" and confirming this with most of the listers, I went to the local shop > and all I could find were "RN9YC". Are these two one and the same? > > When I removed the plugs off the alpine "NGK BP6ES" and compared them with > "RN9YC" they seem to be similar. I installed one in and it fit fine. I'm No. I don't think they are the same. The "R" is for resister and "Y" is extended tip. I think "N" might mean long reach. I have seen the extended electrode's in Alpines before. I think they will work just fine. jan NGK's web page http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf Some Champion info: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/sparkplugs.html From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 16:50:45 2003 From: jumpinjan To: stan gorski Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 18:50:49 -0800 Subject: Re: Champion spark plugs stan gorski wrote: > > Ohan, > In all my years of automobilia, I never had luck with champion plugs. At > least in an alpine they are easy to remove. > stan gorski Stan, I agree. I have seen more Champion plugs start to misfire, in my cars and motorcycles, then any other plug. I really like NGKs & Ac Delcos. Jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 17:10:25 2003 From: "Paul & Susan Almjeld" To: "jumpinjan" , "stan gorski" Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 18:09:55 -0600 Subject: RE: Champion spark plugs Hi all: I agree with Jan regarding the Champion plugs. We didn't even use 'em in our tractors on the farm. I don't know for sure what the problems were, but we just stopped using them and went to AC Delco. from cold South Dakota, Paul -----Original Message----- From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of jumpinjan Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 8:51 PM To: stan gorski Cc: yvrcanada@hotmail.com; alpines@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Champion spark plugs stan gorski wrote: > > Ohan, > In all my years of automobilia, I never had luck with champion plugs. At > least in an alpine they are easy to remove. > stan gorski Stan, I agree. I have seen more Champion plugs start to misfire, in my cars and motorcycles, then any other plug. I really like NGKs & Ac Delcos. Jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 17:18:23 2003 From: "Ohan ." To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 16:16:26 -0800 Subject: Alternative Spark Plugs. Gathering from listers input, Champion Plugs are slugs. Can someone recommend alternative quality plugs that would fit a S-V. Ohan Korlikian Vancouver, BC '64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX (To be completed next century) '67 Series V Alpine B395009458 LRX www.sunbeamcanada.org _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 17:41:40 2003 From: RSWiser@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 19:41:00 EST Subject: Upholstery Has anyone done their own upholstery work using the seat upholstery available from CS or SS? I am about to attempt recovering my Series IV. I was wondering if anyone who has done this would mind giving me some tips/instructions. None came with the upholstery. Since I have done everything else on the car, I figured I might as well do this too. Any help I can get would be appreciated. Thanks, Rob From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 17:56:09 2003 From: "Paul & Susan Almjeld" To: "Ohan ." , Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 18:55:39 -0600 Subject: RE: Alternative Spark Plugs. I;ll check the box number for the AC's and list it to you. Paul -----Original Message----- From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ohan . Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 6:16 PM To: alpines@autox.team.net Subject: Alternative Spark Plugs. Gathering from listers input, Champion Plugs are slugs. Can someone recommend alternative quality plugs that would fit a S-V. Ohan Korlikian Vancouver, BC '64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX (To be completed next century) '67 Series V Alpine B395009458 LRX www.sunbeamcanada.org _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 18:16:43 2003 From: jumpinjan To: "Ohan ." Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 20:16:43 -0800 Subject: Re: Alternative Spark Plugs. "Ohan ." wrote: > > Gathering from listers input, Champion Plugs are slugs. Can someone > recommend alternative quality plugs that would fit a S-V. Ohan, The NGK BP6ES, that you mentioned should work fine. The store probably won't have them in stock. I have to order mine at the parts store. I would order a set of the NGK BP5ES (a little hotter) too and run them both and compare the plug readings. In that way, your Alpine will tell which heat range it likes better. Jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 18:19:12 2003 From: "Paul & Susan Almjeld" To: "Paul & Susan Almjeld" , Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 19:18:42 -0600 Subject: RE: Alternative Spark Plugs. OK - I know I have used AC Delco successfully in the past - also NKG and Bosch. Presently I have Autolites in both engines. Plug # is Autolite 63 - I have the resistor type plugs. The cost me about $1.40 each at the local auto parts store. Ohan - I hope that helps. from freezing!!cold windy South Dakota where the Alpines are snug and cozy in the garage, Paul -----Original Message----- From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Paul & Susan Almjeld Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 6:56 PM To: Ohan .; alpines@autox.team.net Subject: RE: Alternative Spark Plugs. I;ll check the box number for the AC's and list it to you. Paul -----Original Message----- From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ohan . Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 6:16 PM To: alpines@autox.team.net Subject: Alternative Spark Plugs. Gathering from listers input, Champion Plugs are slugs. Can someone recommend alternative quality plugs that would fit a S-V. Ohan Korlikian Vancouver, BC '64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX (To be completed next century) '67 Series V Alpine B395009458 LRX www.sunbeamcanada.org _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 18:28:27 2003 From: jumpinjan To: RSWiser@aol.com Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 20:28:29 -0800 Subject: Re: Upholstery Rob, I'm an upholster and I made my series I seat covers back in 1971. I'm planning on making some custom upholstery for a MK-II Tiger this summer, but I don't know if I can give you a tutorial on how to install Martha's covers. I think those are the 3-piece seat backs and I haven't done one of those yet. I know that Ian installed new covers on his series IV automatic. Maybe you should give him a call (or email ian@sunbeamalpine.org) Jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 18:39:42 2003 From: jumpinjan To: Alpine List Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 20:39:43 -0800 Subject: Champion Spark Plugs Here is some interesting warnings against Champion plugs; http://www.epinions.com/content_1646895236 jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 18:53:51 2003 From: "Louis & Laila" To: Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 18:50:30 -0700 Subject: Great news on my Alpine today Well all, I guess you might want to hear my good fortune. I recently bought an Alpine from a buddy that ran like a raped ape! I mean, it was a 1600, but it moved like no tomorrow! Well, the clutch never disengaged right, so there was a little gnash of gears. I noted that the master cylinder was brand new (not rebuilt) and the slave was also new. I decided to pull the trans and replace the throwout bearing and noted that the flywheel had fore and aft movement of about a quarter of an inch! The springs in the disc had busted, binding the clutch so that it took a great force to actuate it. I dropped the pan, and found that the thrust washers had worn, then fallen out to the pan! The crank had washed out the bearing cap and journal. All this in an engine that has 195 PSI in each cylinder. I had intermittent tears and laughter. The fastest 1600 Alpine I hve ever seen and the engine is waste. Grand. The beauty of it is that I was planning on driving this car on Monday. Oh well. It happens. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 19:06:19 2003 From: CANISDOG@aol.com To: bwana@c2i2.com, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 21:05:27 EST Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today This is the same condition I found in my Series 3 GT when I purchased it and took the engine in for the machine work. I wanted to keep the original engine but I chose to find a 1700 instead. However, the machine shop (race builders) told me they could repair it by building those two surfaces up and then machining it back to original. MUCH more $$$ though, as you can imagine. I had all kinds of metal in the oil. It looked like matalic paint!! It is possible and if this baby runs so well you might think about it.!! Paul From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 19:10:51 2003 From: jumpinjan To: Ohan Korlikian Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 21:10:51 -0800 Subject: Re: Transmission Fluid: SV Ohan, Since we are on the spark plug topic, here are my 2 cents on the transmission oil. If you want the best, Red Line transmission oil is the best. To get the best without paying $10/qt & near by, I highly recommend using a motorcycle transmission oil like Yamahlube, Spectro, Motul, Belray, and so on. Secondly, if you need to use an automobile oil, I would use a Castrol product like a synthetic or blend will work just fine. But, DO NOT use the Shell ND (no detergent) single weight oil. That is the worst oil I have ever used. It actually ruined my Sears lawnmower engine in about 15 mins. Bad, Bad stuff. jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 19:55:47 2003 From: "Louis & Laila" To: , Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 19:52:33 -0700 Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today Well, I think what I will do is take a 1600 short block that I have that water leaked down from the corroded head (sound familiar?) and just use that crank, bore the engine out to .060 over, whatever this one was, then just transfer the parts. I do know one thing, I am going to get my main bearing caps machined to take a thrust washer also so I can prevent this type of catastrophic disaster from happening again. Getting the crank welded then machined is about $125 and I imagine the block would be the same for a total of $250. Not really worth it to me when I have "a few" engines sitting around. The good thing is that one block will go in the trash, and one will be removed from the stack the ole lady has recently began to complain about. Remarkably enough, the engine had fantastic oil pressure until the clutch was depressed! about 50 PSI. I figure the crank moved so far, that the hole in the crank that would transport the oil was out of the groove blocking flow. Lou ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 7:05 PM Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today > This is the same condition I found in my Series 3 GT when I purchased it and > took the engine in for the machine work. I wanted to keep the original > engine but I chose to find a 1700 instead. > > However, the machine shop (race builders) told me they could repair it by > building those two surfaces up and then machining it back to original. MUCH > more $$$ though, as you can imagine. I had all kinds of metal in the oil. > It looked like matalic paint!! > > It is possible and if this baby runs so well you might think about it.!! > > Paul From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 21:14:17 2003 From: CANISDOG@aol.com To: bwana@c2i2.com, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 23:13:25 EST Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today I wonder if this happens from putting the thrust washers in backwards. There is a difference in materials on each side. What do you think Jan? Paul From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 21:36:55 2003 From: ellis838@concentric.net To: "alpines@autox.team.net" Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 23:35:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today I saw this in a TR6 engine the thrust washers slipped out and the crank ate the cap surfaces. This was on an engine that had just been overhauled by a unknown party. I figured it was one of two things either the washers were installed wrong or they were not the right thickness to thick or to thin. To thick they may have got hot and galled then were whipped out or too thin and they let the crank pound them until they came out. Jim E CANISDOG@aol.com wrote: >I wonder if this happens from putting the thrust washers in backwards. There >is a difference in materials on each side. > >What do you think Jan? > >Paul > >. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 21:59:21 2003 From: "Louis & Laila" To: Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 21:55:42 -0700 Subject: VOLVO Clutch One of the interesting things about my clutch job from hell was that the clutch was the diaphram clutch used in a Volvo. I had heard that this was an acceptable method for getting an 8 1/2" disc and diaphram on an early style flywheel, but had never actually looked into it. I went to the auto parts store and was able to buy the same clutch, however, it didn't have the "Thingy" that the throwout bearing would ride against. It is just the 18 little forks of the diaphram that are exposed. The Sunbeam style clutch has a little donut style thing made of steel that rotates with the clutch, yet increases the life of the graphite. Can anyone tell me where to get that so that I might get everything back together? Lou From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sat Jan 25 22:26:16 2003 From: ellis838@concentric.net To: Louis & Laila , Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 00:24:53 -0500 Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch Lou, Been there and ended up taking the Volvo clutch cover back, what I ended up using was a MGB cover with the carbon throw out bearing receiver thing on it, did use the Volvo disc. I got my cover from a guy I know with a bunch of MG stuff. They did switch to the roller bearing on the MGs at some point so make sure you are very clear with the parts house when they order the cover that it has to be the early style for the carbon throw out bearing or you will get the Volvo cover back only they will say it is for a MG... the MG covers show up on ebay pretty often for cheap. Jim E Louis & Laila wrote: >One of the interesting things about my clutch job from hell was that the >clutch was the diaphram clutch used in a Volvo. I had heard that this was an >acceptable method for getting an 8 1/2" disc and diaphram on an early style >flywheel, but had never actually looked into it. I went to the auto parts >store and was able to buy the same clutch, however, it didn't have the >"Thingy" that the throwout bearing would ride against. It is just the 18 >little forks of the diaphram that are exposed. The Sunbeam style clutch has >a little donut style thing made of steel that rotates with the clutch, yet >increases the life of the graphite. Can anyone tell me where to get that so >that I might get everything back together? Lou > >. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 26 01:05:00 2003 From: "Alkon" To: "Alpine list" Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 18:16:48 +1000 Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch The Volvo clutch throwout bearing is a ball race and runs on a guide tube around the gearbox input shaft. This type of clutch is totally incompatable with the Rootes carbon throwout bearing. If you want to use the Volvo clutch pressure plate then a guide tube and the correct type of throwout bearing must be used. This work is really fairly simple to do and made easier if you can steal the right parts off a Volvo. I have done this adaptation to couple a Jag box to a Chrysler Hemi V8. Unless you use dragracer clutch techniques. (7000rpm and step off the clutch.) then the Rootes supplied item will handle anything that your 1600 or 1725 engine can deliver. Keith ----- Original Message ----- From: "Louis & Laila" To: Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 2:55 PM Subject: VOLVO Clutch > One of the interesting things about my clutch job from hell was that the > clutch was the diaphram clutch used in a Volvo. I had heard that this was an > acceptable method for getting an 8 1/2" disc and diaphram on an early style > flywheel, but had never actually looked into it. I went to the auto parts > store and was able to buy the same clutch, however, it didn't have the > "Thingy" that the throwout bearing would ride against. It is just the 18 > little forks of the diaphram that are exposed. The Sunbeam style clutch has > a little donut style thing made of steel that rotates with the clutch, yet > increases the life of the graphite. Can anyone tell me where to get that so > that I might get everything back together? Lou From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 26 08:15:57 2003 From: jumpinjan To: CANISDOG@aol.com Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 10:15:53 -0800 Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today CANISDOG@aol.com wrote: > > I wonder if this happens from putting the thrust washers in backwards. There > is a difference in materials on each side. Paul, yes, that's a possibility because the back is flat with no relief grooves to let the oil in and there's no bearing material, just steel on steel. Also, don't throw away the old thrust washers when rebuilding your engine. I reuse a good thrust washer for the front thrust and a new one for the rear thrust. It's only the rear one that wears anyway. Jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 26 09:29:58 2003 From: ellis838@concentric.net To: "alpines@autox.team.net" Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 11:28:27 -0500 Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch The MGB cover and Volvo plate works well is cheaper and easier to get, I also think the quality of the MG/Volvo parts is better. Sorting the combination of pivot block and release arm is the only difficult part. The 7 inch Rootes plate seems to like to spit the springs out and the plates I have bought look like they were rebuilt in the back yard in grandpas spare time. I figure my 1725 is good for 130+hp and with the 205 tires I am not sure the stock 7 inch clutch could take the strain... Jim E Alkon wrote: >The Volvo clutch throwout bearing is a ball race and runs on a guide tube >around the gearbox input shaft. This type of clutch is totally incompatable >with the Rootes carbon throwout bearing. If you want to use the Volvo clutch >pressure plate then a guide tube and the correct type of throwout bearing >must be used. This work is really fairly simple to do and made easier if you >can steal the right parts off a Volvo. I have done this adaptation to couple >a Jag box to a Chrysler Hemi V8. > >Unless you use dragracer clutch techniques. (7000rpm and step off the >clutch.) then the Rootes supplied item will handle anything that your 1600 >or 1725 engine can deliver. > >Keith > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Louis & Laila" >To: >Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 2:55 PM >Subject: VOLVO Clutch > > >>One of the interesting things about my clutch job from hell was that the >>clutch was the diaphram clutch used in a Volvo. I had heard that this was >> >an > >>acceptable method for getting an 8 1/2" disc and diaphram on an early >> >style > >>flywheel, but had never actually looked into it. I went to the auto parts >>store and was able to buy the same clutch, however, it didn't have the >>"Thingy" that the throwout bearing would ride against. It is just the 18 >>little forks of the diaphram that are exposed. The Sunbeam style clutch >> >has > >>a little donut style thing made of steel that rotates with the clutch, yet >>increases the life of the graphite. Can anyone tell me where to get that >> >so > >>that I might get everything back together? Lou From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 26 09:46:38 2003 From: "Louis & Laila" To: "jumpinjan" , Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 09:43:18 -0700 Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today In this case, the cause is that a spring from the disc, one of those used to absorb the shock of clutch engagement, broke into 5 pieces. These lodged into the diaphram of the clutch, so it took tremendous force to make the clutch work. This explains why the previous owner replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder with new parts! (the cadnium plated stuff looks real nice!!). SInce this engine was getting all of this force, the only thing it could do was concentrate this force on the thrust washers. That is what wore them out fast enough and destryed the engine. So, if your clutch seems to take more force than usual, or you hear metalic chunks bouncing around, and you replace your slave and master and the thing still cha chinks the gears when you shift, inspect the engine quick, because you might be ruining another difficult to find engine. Lou ----- Original Message ----- From: "jumpinjan" To: Cc: ; Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 11:15 AM Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today > CANISDOG@aol.com wrote: > > > > I wonder if this happens from putting the thrust washers in backwards. There > > is a difference in materials on each side. > > Paul, > yes, that's a possibility because the back is flat with no relief > grooves to let the oil in and there's no bearing material, just steel on > steel. Also, don't throw away the old thrust washers when rebuilding > your engine. I reuse a good thrust washer for the front thrust and a new > one for the rear thrust. It's only the rear one that wears anyway. > Jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 26 10:49:52 2003 From: "Jon A." To: "jumpinjan" Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 11:48:59 -0600 Subject: Re: Champion spark plugs Here's an interesting bit of information that may help you decide which plug you prefer. Saturn, (a subsidiary of General Motors), originally used AC Delco plugs in their engines. Natural choice, since GM is the "parent" company of AC Delco. However, Saturn ran into reliability problems with the AC Delco plugs, and now use NGK plugs exclusively for all 1991-2002 1.9 liter engines. At least the engineers were smart enough to look elsewhere when they needed a quality product! Jon Arzt Omaha, NE USA ----- Original Message ----- From: "jumpinjan" To: "stan gorski" Cc: ; Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 8:50 PM Subject: Re: Champion spark plugs > stan gorski wrote: > > > > Ohan, > > In all my years of automobilia, I never had luck with champion plugs. At > > least in an alpine they are easy to remove. > > stan gorski > > Stan, I agree. I have seen more Champion plugs start to misfire, in my > cars and motorcycles, then any other plug. I really like NGKs & Ac > Delcos. > Jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 26 11:11:29 2003 From: RootesRooter@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 13:10:43 EST Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today Hmmm. I wouldn't have thought that the occasional use of a 'broken-springed' clutch could wear out the thrust washers like that. Was there enough left of the original washers to tell if they'd been installed backwards? I've had a spring break before, but the noise it made left no doubt that the clutch needed replacing right away. Dick Sanders ] In a message dated 1/26/03 8:46:49 AM Pacific Standard Time, bwana@c2i2.com writes: << In this case, the cause is that a spring from the disc, one of those used to absorb the shock of clutch engagement, broke into 5 pieces. These lodged into the diaphram of the clutch, so it took tremendous force to make the clutch work. This explains why the previous owner replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder with new parts! (the cadnium plated stuff looks real nice!!). SInce this engine was getting all of this force, the only thing it could do was concentrate this force on the thrust washers. That is what wore them out fast enough and destryed the engine. So, if your clutch seems to take more force than usual, or you hear metalic chunks bouncing around, and you replace your slave and master and the thing still cha chinks the gears when you shift, inspect the engine quick, because you might be ruining another difficult to find engine. Lou >> From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 26 11:56:11 2003 From: "Ron Davis" To: "Alpines News Group" Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 12:57:45 -0600 Subject: Spark plugs Listers; I have a 1954 Sunbeam Alpine that I run NGK plugs in. Why ??, well I have 35 years experience in the motorcycle business and have tried every common spark plug there is. When you are dealing with a single cylinder engine, any difficulty will show up very quickly! There are some spark plugs that will give you slightly better performance than an NGK - but only for a little while. The humidity, air pressure and temperature have to be exactly the same as when the engine was tuned. so......... in my experience, NGK spark plugs will run better, longer than any other make and are more tolerant of atmospheric changes. P.S. I also use them in my SCCA MGB "E" Production race car that now makes 175-180 hp on a dyno (up from 90-98 hp stock) Ron Davis From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 26 14:35:49 2003 From: "Ohan ." To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 13:35:07 -0800 Subject: NGK spark plug - defined Greetings, Well I finally found a set of NGK BP6ES for my S-V. Here is a link that I found helpful http://www.stealth316.com/misc/ngk-partnumberkey.pdf Ohan Korlikian Vancouver, BC '64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX (To be completed next century) '67 Series V Alpine B395009458 LRX www.sunbeamcanada.org _________________________________________________________________ From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jan 26 17:04:44 2003 From: Carl Wade <110156.3206@compuserve.com> To: Alpine list members Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 19:03:38 -0500 Subject: NGk Plugs As a former Mercury Marine dealer, I can tell you that if you have difficulty finding them, they are used in Mercury Outboard Motors and MerCruiser Sterndrives. If you are having trouble finding them and have one of these dealers nearby, try them. But you will probably have to pay quite a bit more than if you could find them at an auto parts store. They are also used quite often in snowmobiles and motorcycles. Mercury Marine found NGKs to be a very reliable spark plug in its engines. Champions are known to work very poorly in the "polar gap" configuration, common in outboard motors. Carl Wade Williamson, New York State (near Lake Ontario) B395000858 LRX From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 03:06:56 2003 From: "Alkon" To: "Alpine list" Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 20:17:59 +1000 Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch The load on the clutch is not only a factor of horsepower. The weight of the vehicle has a large effect on clutch life. We used a small Ford zephyr clutch behind a high performance 283 Chev in a Mk 3 Zephyr driving through the original Ford four speed gearbox. This set up worked ok in the lightweight Zephyr but the same clutch and gearbox would not have survived if installed behind the same engine in a full size Chev. The Alpine is a small lightweight vehicle so I would expect clutch life to be sufficient to last untill the engine needed attention. I drove a 3.4 Jaguar with manual box and quickly learned that slipping the clutch was a big "NO NO". The magic smoke escaped as quickly as foward propulsion ceased :-). Jag drivers manual says " for best acceleration off the line use about 2000rpm, allow cluch to fully engage before flooring it" Slipping the clutch on normal changes is clutch abuse and does not improve performance. In fact driving the Jag taught me to allow all the bits of clutch/gearbox etc to work at their own pace. Fast gear changes never happened with the Jag (Moss) gearbox. A pause in neutral between gears always helped. The same technique in my 55 Californian means silent gearchanges occur, and gearbox bits don't fall in the bottom of the box :-)) Australian car racing involves great races like Bathurst where "hard" drivers go quickly but often never finish because they break something. Rootes Australia entered the Humble Minx (badged as Sunbeam ) in the great race. It finished and put up lap times that I feel were nothing short of amazing considering that this was a stock unmodified sedan. I personally have learned the hard way about vehicle abuse. If it is broken I get to walk :-) so coaxing maximum performance without breaking anything has become second nature to me. The point that these Volvo parts are more readily available is a good one and adaptation of these parts should not be difficult, but to say that the substitution is needed because the original parts cannot take the power is not suffucient reason for me to make this change. In Australia I would simply adapt Holdem ( GM) parts as they are cheaply available where Volvo parts cost a premium in Australia. If the Rootes engine drivetrain is not holding together then it was not assembled correctly. I have rebuilt motors in my previous Hillmans and pushed them full throttle for up to 100miles without failures. We are talking about sitting on 6 -7000rpm for 20 miles at a stretch. To the extent the exhaust piping becomes more than red hot. I have gone on a bit here but the point I am trying to make is that the Standard Alpine drive train is more than capable of handling any amount of enthusiastic street use and a fair amount of classic racing use as well. Keith 55 Californian 56 Minx 68 Hunter >---- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 2:28 AM Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch > The MGB cover and Volvo plate works well is cheaper and easier to get, > I also think the quality of the MG/Volvo parts is better. Sorting the > combination of pivot block and release arm is the only difficult part. > The 7 inch Rootes plate seems to like to spit the springs out and the > plates I have bought look like they were rebuilt in the back yard in > grandpas spare time. I figure my 1725 is good for 130+hp and with the > 205 tires I am not sure the stock 7 inch clutch could take the strain... > Jim E > > Alkon wrote: > > >The Volvo clutch throwout bearing is a ball race and runs on a guide tube > >around the gearbox input shaft. This type of clutch is totally incompatable > >with the Rootes carbon throwout bearing. If you want to use the Volvo clutch > >pressure plate then a guide tube and the correct type of throwout bearing > >must be used. This work is really fairly simple to do and made easier if you > >can steal the right parts off a Volvo. I have done this adaptation to couple > >a Jag box to a Chrysler Hemi V8. > > > >Unless you use dragracer clutch techniques. (7000rpm and step off the > >clutch.) then the Rootes supplied item will handle anything that your 1600 > >or 1725 engine can deliver. > > > >Keith From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 03:34:49 2003 From: Jerry Jamison To: RootesRooter@aol.com, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 04:15:57 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Re: Great news on my Alpine today Help! forgive me for doing this but I cannot post messages to this list, although I am a subscriber and receive all of the posts. When I try to post a message to alpines@autotox.team.net it is returned to me as a "fatal error", "undeliverable, Host Unknown". Can anyone offer a suggestion, please? Jerry ------------------ Reply Separator -------------------- Originally From: RootesRooter@aol.com Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today Date: 01/26/2003 01:10pm Hmmm. I wouldn't have thought that the occasional use of a 'broken- springed' clutch could wear out the thrust washers like that. Was there enough left of the original washers to tell if they'd been installed backwards? I've had a spring break before, but the noise it made left no doubt that the clutch needed replacing right away. Dick Sanders ] In a message dated 1/26/03 8:46:49 AM Pacific Standard Time, bwana@c2i2.com writes: << In this case, the cause is that a spring from the disc, one of those used to absorb the shock of clutch engagement, broke into 5 pieces. These lodged into the diaphram of the clutch, so it took tremendous force to make the clutch work. This explains why the previous owner replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder with new parts! (the cadnium plated stuff looks real nice!!). SInce this engine was getting all of this force, the only thing it could do was concentrate this force on the thrust washers. That is what wore them out fast enough and destryed the engine. So, if your clutch seems to take more force than usual, or you hear metalic chunks bouncing around, and you replace your slave and master and the thing still cha chinks the gears when you shift, inspect the engine quick, because you might be ruining another difficult to find engine. Lou >> From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 04:44:11 2003 From: Whiteford Andy To: Alpine List Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 11:43:18 -0000 Subject: Another alpine in a pop video ? There's a yellow pointy-finner Alpine in the video for "Mundian To Bach Ke", by "Panjabi MC" see: http://www.nme.com/features/103876.htm (from about 2 minutes 35 secs onwards) It was on "Top of the pops", but I was too busy watching the girl dancers ;-) it's at number 6 in the UK top-forty chart. -Andy- From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 04:51:24 2003 From: Dan Amidon To: Alpine list Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 06:50:03 -0500 Subject: Sunbeams on TNN My brother-in-law called me on Saturday to tell me that there was a special on TNN about Sunbeams. The ironic thing was that I cut back on my cable to free up some money to work on my car. Oh well, hopefully someone out there saw it. Dan Amidon 1963 Alpine Series III (too cold to work on lately, -9 today). From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 04:53:45 2003 From: RSWiser@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 06:52:52 EST Subject: Problems with email Can anyone on the list help Jerry out. When he tried to send an email to the list he gets a "fatal errors" Rob Return-Path: Received: from rly-xb04.mx.aol.com (rly-xb04.mail.aol.com [172.20.105.105]) by air-xb02.mail.aol.com (v90.10) with ESMTP id MAILINXB23-0127040948; Mon, 27 Jan 2003 04:09:48 -0500 Received: from tom.po.com (tom.po.com [65.112.157.17]) by rly-xb04.mx.aol.com (v90_r1.1) with ESMTP id MAILRELAYINXB41-0127040931; Mon, 27 Jan 2003 04:09:31 -0500 Received: from web4.po.com (web4.po.com [65.112.157.15]) by tom.po.com (8.12.2/8.12.2) with ESMTP id h0R96Pxj016379 for ; Mon, 27 Jan 2003 04:06:25 -0500 (EST) Received: (from www@localhost) by web4.po.com (8.11.6+Sun/8.11.6) id h0R96Tc25015; Mon, 27 Jan 2003 04:06:29 -0500 (EST) Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 04:06:29 -0500 (EST) Message-Id: <200301270906.h0R96Tc25015@web4.po.com> X-Authentication-Warning: web4.po.com: www set sender to jaydee7@pol.net using -f Mime-Version: 1.0 From: Jerry Jamison To: RSWiser@aol.com Subject: Re: Re: Upholstery X-Mailer: Unknown (No Version) Rob, I tried again, after your note, and message was returned as "fatal error". Who is the webmaster, or coordinator, for this list? I need to find someone who can help me figure this out. Thank you very much. Jerry ------------------ Reply Separator -------------------- Originally From: RSWiser@aol.com Subject: Re: Upholstery Date: 01/26/2003 05:44pm Jerry, When I send an email it is addressed to: alpines@autox.team.net If that is what you are using, you may have some setting that is not acceptable to the server. Good luck, Rob From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 06:04:45 2003 From: CANISDOG@aol.com To: jaydee7@pol.net, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 08:01:49 EST Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today Jerry, It's not "alpines@autotox.team.net" but rather "alpines@autotx.team.net" You have an extra "o" in the mo!! Paul From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 06:22:10 2003 From: jumpinjan To: Jerry Jamison Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 08:21:59 -0800 Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today Jerry Jamison wrote: > > Help! forgive me for doing this but I cannot post messages to this > list, although I am a subscriber and receive all of the posts. When I > try to post a message to alpines@autotox.team.net it is returned to > me as a "fatal error", You posted fine that time. jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 06:25:20 2003 From: jumpinjan To: Dan Amidon Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 08:25:07 -0800 Subject: Re: Sunbeams on TNN I recorded it and I posted a link to it on the SAOCA Alpine forum: http://www.saoca.org/sforum/viewboard.php?BoardID=1 jan From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 06:57:31 2003 From: tjhiggin@mapapp1.iss.ingr.com (T.J. Higgins) To: RSWiser@aol.com, jaydee7@pol.net Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 07:56:35 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: Problems with email RSWiser@aol.com wrote: > > Can anyone on the list help Jerry out. When he tried to send an email to the > list he gets a "fatal errors" > > Rob At the admin address, I am not getting any errors back from Jerry. His message dated Mon Jan 27 2003 04:15:57AM was posted correctly to the list. More likely what is happening is that there is a bad address on the list, which can cause the message to bounce back to the sender rather than to the list manager. Jerry, if you get any more errors, please forward them to me. But since your other message was posted correctly earlier today, I'm thinking everything is fine. -- T.J. Higgins tjhiggin@ingr.com Huntsville, AL > Return-Path: > Received: from rly-xb04.mx.aol.com (rly-xb04.mail.aol.com > [172.20.105.105]) by air-xb02.mail.aol.com (v90.10) with ESMTP id > MAILINXB23-0127040948; Mon, 27 Jan 2003 04:09:48 -0500 > Received: from tom.po.com (tom.po.com [65.112.157.17]) by > rly-xb04.mx.aol.com (v90_r1.1) with ESMTP id > MAILRELAYINXB41-0127040931; Mon, 27 Jan 2003 04:09:31 -0500 > Received: from web4.po.com (web4.po.com [65.112.157.15]) by tom.po.com > (8.12.2/8.12.2) with ESMTP id h0R96Pxj016379 for ; > Mon, 27 Jan 2003 04:06:25 -0500 (EST) > Received: (from www@localhost) by web4.po.com (8.11.6+Sun/8.11.6) id > h0R96Tc25015; Mon, 27 Jan 2003 04:06:29 -0500 (EST) > Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 04:06:29 -0500 (EST) > Message-Id: <200301270906.h0R96Tc25015@web4.po.com> > X-Authentication-Warning: web4.po.com: www set sender to jaydee7@pol.net > using -f > Mime-Version: 1.0 > From: Jerry Jamison > To: RSWiser@aol.com > Subject: Re: Re: Upholstery > X-Mailer: Unknown (No Version) > > Rob, > I tried again, after your note, and message was returned as "fatal > error". Who is the webmaster, or coordinator, for this list? I need > to find someone who can help me figure this out. Thank you very much. > Jerry > > > > ------------------ Reply Separator -------------------- > Originally From: RSWiser@aol.com > Subject: Re: Upholstery > Date: 01/26/2003 05:44pm > > > Jerry, > When I send an email it is addressed to: > > alpines@autox.team.net > > If that is what you are using, you may have some setting that is not > acceptable to the server. > > Good luck, > Rob From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 09:37:56 2003 From: "Louis & Laila" To: "Alkon" , "Alpine list" Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 09:34:23 -0700 Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch Keith, You are correct in that weight of the car affects the clutch life. It is equal with that of the torque of the engine. The coeifficent of friction, caused by the springs in the clutch and the "stickiness" of the disc, resist either the torque of the engine, or the weight of the car, which acts as torque through the drive line. The series 5 style clutch will slip when there is a great deal of torque from the engine. This slip translates into reduced performance, and increased wear. This has been proven by many people who race Alpines in the USA. It might also be noted that Rootes went to a different clutch for the H120 and Holbay upgrades. I will use the series 5 style clutch when I can because I have lots (Lots!) of them. I wouldn't consider them for any performance application. Lou ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alkon" To: "Alpine list" Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 3:17 AM Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch > The load on the clutch is not only a factor of horsepower. > The weight of the vehicle has a large effect on clutch life. > We used a small Ford zephyr clutch behind a high performance 283 Chev in a > Mk 3 Zephyr driving through the original Ford four speed gearbox. This set > up worked ok in the lightweight Zephyr but the same clutch and gearbox would > not have survived if installed behind the same engine in a full size Chev. > The Alpine is a small lightweight vehicle so I would expect clutch life to > be sufficient to last untill the engine needed attention. > I drove a 3.4 Jaguar with manual box and quickly learned that slipping the > clutch was a big "NO NO". The magic smoke escaped as quickly as foward > propulsion ceased :-). Jag drivers manual says " for best acceleration off > the line use about 2000rpm, allow cluch to fully engage before flooring it" > Slipping the clutch on normal changes is clutch abuse and does not improve > performance. > In fact driving the Jag taught me to allow all the bits of clutch/gearbox > etc to work at their own pace. Fast gear changes never happened with the Jag > (Moss) gearbox. A pause in neutral between gears always helped. The same > technique in my 55 Californian means silent gearchanges occur, and gearbox > bits don't fall in the bottom of the box :-)) > Australian car racing involves great races like Bathurst where "hard" > drivers go quickly but often never finish because they break something. > Rootes Australia entered the Humble Minx (badged as Sunbeam ) in the great > race. It finished and put up lap times that I feel were nothing short of > amazing considering that this was a stock unmodified sedan. > I personally have learned the hard way about vehicle abuse. If it is broken > I get to walk :-) so coaxing maximum performance without breaking anything > has become second nature to me. > > The point that these Volvo parts are more readily available is a good one > and adaptation of these parts should not be difficult, but to say that the > substitution is needed because the original parts cannot take the power is > not suffucient reason for me to make this change. In Australia I would > simply adapt Holdem ( GM) parts as they are cheaply available where Volvo > parts cost a premium in Australia. > > If the Rootes engine drivetrain is not holding together then it was not > assembled correctly. I have rebuilt motors in my previous Hillmans and > pushed them full throttle for up to 100miles without failures. We are > talking about sitting on 6 -7000rpm for 20 miles at a stretch. To the extent > the exhaust piping becomes more than red hot. > > I have gone on a bit here but the point I am trying to make is that the > Standard Alpine drive train is more than capable of handling any amount of > enthusiastic street use and a fair amount of classic racing use as well. > > Keith > 55 Californian > 56 Minx > 68 Hunter > > >---- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 2:28 AM > Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch > > > > The MGB cover and Volvo plate works well is cheaper and easier to get, > > I also think the quality of the MG/Volvo parts is better. Sorting the > > combination of pivot block and release arm is the only difficult part. > > The 7 inch Rootes plate seems to like to spit the springs out and the > > plates I have bought look like they were rebuilt in the back yard in > > grandpas spare time. I figure my 1725 is good for 130+hp and with the > > 205 tires I am not sure the stock 7 inch clutch could take the strain... > > Jim E > > > > Alkon wrote: > > > > >The Volvo clutch throwout bearing is a ball race and runs on a guide tube > > >around the gearbox input shaft. This type of clutch is totally > incompatable > > >with the Rootes carbon throwout bearing. If you want to use the Volvo > clutch > > >pressure plate then a guide tube and the correct type of throwout bearing > > >must be used. This work is really fairly simple to do and made easier if > you > > >can steal the right parts off a Volvo. I have done this adaptation to > couple > > >a Jag box to a Chrysler Hemi V8. > > > > > >Unless you use dragracer clutch techniques. (7000rpm and step off the > > >clutch.) then the Rootes supplied item will handle anything that your > 1600 > > >or 1725 engine can deliver. > > > > > >Keith From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 10:15:05 2003 From: Jarrid Gross To: Louis & Laila , Alkon , Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 09:14:53 -0800 Subject: RE: VOLVO Clutch Lou and piners, I had a 7.5 inch clutch (brand new) in a 1725 with stock mechanics, but running fuel injection. The added torque was all it needed to begin slipping the clutch at WOT. When the clutch begins to slip on its own, the result is a snowball effect, where the clutch gets hotter, slips a tad more, gets hotter slips a tad more, until you are puting all your engine power into smoke and heat. Why Rootes used that tiny clutch on the 1725 is beyond me. I use the 8 or 8 1/2 inch now, but it is soooo heavy. Jarrid -----Original Message----- From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Louis & Laila Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 8:34 AM To: Alkon; Alpine list Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch Keith, You are correct in that weight of the car affects the clutch life. It is equal with that of the torque of the engine. The coeifficent of friction, caused by the springs in the clutch and the "stickiness" of the disc, resist either the torque of the engine, or the weight of the car, which acts as torque through the drive line. The series 5 style clutch will slip when there is a great deal of torque from the engine. This slip translates into reduced performance, and increased wear. This has been proven by many people who race Alpines in the USA. It might also be noted that Rootes went to a different clutch for the H120 and Holbay upgrades. I will use the series 5 style clutch when I can because I have lots (Lots!) of them. I wouldn't consider them for any performance application. Lou ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alkon" To: "Alpine list" Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 3:17 AM Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch > The load on the clutch is not only a factor of horsepower. > The weight of the vehicle has a large effect on clutch life. > We used a small Ford zephyr clutch behind a high performance 283 Chev in a > Mk 3 Zephyr driving through the original Ford four speed gearbox. This set > up worked ok in the lightweight Zephyr but the same clutch and gearbox would > not have survived if installed behind the same engine in a full size Chev. > The Alpine is a small lightweight vehicle so I would expect clutch life to > be sufficient to last untill the engine needed attention. > I drove a 3.4 Jaguar with manual box and quickly learned that slipping the > clutch was a big "NO NO". The magic smoke escaped as quickly as foward > propulsion ceased :-). Jag drivers manual says " for best acceleration off > the line use about 2000rpm, allow cluch to fully engage before flooring it" > Slipping the clutch on normal changes is clutch abuse and does not improve > performance. > In fact driving the Jag taught me to allow all the bits of clutch/gearbox > etc to work at their own pace. Fast gear changes never happened with the Jag > (Moss) gearbox. A pause in neutral between gears always helped. The same > technique in my 55 Californian means silent gearchanges occur, and gearbox > bits don't fall in the bottom of the box :-)) > Australian car racing involves great races like Bathurst where "hard" > drivers go quickly but often never finish because they break something. > Rootes Australia entered the Humble Minx (badged as Sunbeam ) in the great > race. It finished and put up lap times that I feel were nothing short of > amazing considering that this was a stock unmodified sedan. > I personally have learned the hard way about vehicle abuse. If it is broken > I get to walk :-) so coaxing maximum performance without breaking anything > has become second nature to me. > > The point that these Volvo parts are more readily available is a good one > and adaptation of these parts should not be difficult, but to say that the > substitution is needed because the original parts cannot take the power is > not suffucient reason for me to make this change. In Australia I would > simply adapt Holdem ( GM) parts as they are cheaply available where Volvo > parts cost a premium in Australia. > > If the Rootes engine drivetrain is not holding together then it was not > assembled correctly. I have rebuilt motors in my previous Hillmans and > pushed them full throttle for up to 100miles without failures. We are > talking about sitting on 6 -7000rpm for 20 miles at a stretch. To the extent > the exhaust piping becomes more than red hot. > > I have gone on a bit here but the point I am trying to make is that the > Standard Alpine drive train is more than capable of handling any amount of > enthusiastic street use and a fair amount of classic racing use as well. > > Keith > 55 Californian > 56 Minx > 68 Hunter > > >---- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 2:28 AM > Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch > > > > The MGB cover and Volvo plate works well is cheaper and easier to get, > > I also think the quality of the MG/Volvo parts is better. Sorting the > > combination of pivot block and release arm is the only difficult part. > > The 7 inch Rootes plate seems to like to spit the springs out and the > > plates I have bought look like they were rebuilt in the back yard in > > grandpas spare time. I figure my 1725 is good for 130+hp and with the > > 205 tires I am not sure the stock 7 inch clutch could take the strain... > > Jim E > > > > Alkon wrote: > > > > >The Volvo clutch throwout bearing is a ball race and runs on a guide tube > > >around the gearbox input shaft. This type of clutch is totally > incompatable > > >with the Rootes carbon throwout bearing. If you want to use the Volvo > clutch > > >pressure plate then a guide tube and the correct type of throwout bearing > > >must be used. This work is really fairly simple to do and made easier if > you > > >can steal the right parts off a Volvo. I have done this adaptation to > couple > > >a Jag box to a Chrysler Hemi V8. > > > > > >Unless you use dragracer clutch techniques. (7000rpm and step off the > > >clutch.) then the Rootes supplied item will handle anything that your > 1600 > > >or 1725 engine can deliver. > > > > > >Keith From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 11:20:31 2003 From: "Kevin McLemore" To: JGross@econolite.com, bwana@c2i2.com, alkon@bigpond.com.au, Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 13:17:14 -0500 Subject: RE: VOLVO Clutch OK.. so to get this all down correctly (as I'm about to do an engine & clutch job myself)... >From what I've read here, we need an "early MGB" clutch cover (pressure plate)... Moss Motors lists two - they don't not seem to differentiate between early or late, but only list one cover, with a second listed as a 'competition' cover: 190-080 -- $76.30 -- PRESSURE PLATE, new 190-810 -- $89.95 -- PRESSURE PLATE, heavy duty/competition Their illustration shows a carbon bush type throwout bearing, so I suspect either cover will do?? http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors/MossUSA/Shop/ViewProducts.mac/report?T=36265&ModelID=31000&PlateID=2481 As for the cluch disc (driven plate), which specific Volvo model are we talking... is it for the B18 motors (122, P1800, etc)? Also, I haven't had my Series V apart for ages (+15 years!) so I don't recall if I have the coarse or fine spline input shaft on my OD tranny... is the Volvo plate coarse or fine? Part numbers would be helpful if anyone has them! Thanks to all - Kevin B395015623 ----Original Message Follows---- From: Jarrid Gross Reply-To: Jarrid Gross To: Louis & Laila , Alkon , Alpine list Subject: RE: VOLVO Clutch Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 09:14:53 -0800 Lou and piners, I had a 7.5 inch clutch (brand new) in a 1725 with stock mechanics, but running fuel injection. The added torque was all it needed to begin slipping the clutch at WOT. When the clutch begins to slip on its own, the result is a snowball effect, where the clutch gets hotter, slips a tad more, gets hotter slips a tad more, until you are puting all your engine power into smoke and heat. Why Rootes used that tiny clutch on the 1725 is beyond me. I use the 8 or 8 1/2 inch now, but it is soooo heavy. Jarrid -----Original Message----- From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Louis & Laila Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 8:34 AM To: Alkon; Alpine list Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch Keith, You are correct in that weight of the car affects the clutch life. It is equal with that of the torque of the engine. The coeifficent of friction, caused by the springs in the clutch and the "stickiness" of the disc, resist either the torque of the engine, or the weight of the car, which acts as torque through the drive line. The series 5 style clutch will slip when there is a great deal of torque from the engine. This slip translates into reduced performance, and increased wear. This has been proven by many people who race Alpines in the USA. It might also be noted that Rootes went to a different clutch for the H120 and Holbay upgrades. I will use the series 5 style clutch when I can because I have lots (Lots!) of them. I wouldn't consider them for any performance application. Lou ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alkon" To: "Alpine list" Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 3:17 AM Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch The load on the clutch is not only a factor of horsepower. The weight of the vehicle has a large effect on clutch life. We used a small Ford zephyr clutch behind a high performance 283 Chev in a Mk 3 Zephyr driving through the original Ford four speed gearbox. This set up worked ok in the lightweight Zephyr but the same clutch and gearbox would not have survived if installed behind the same engine in a full size Chev. The Alpine is a small lightweight vehicle so I would expect clutch life to be sufficient to last untill the engine needed attention. I drove a 3.4 Jaguar with manual box and quickly learned that slipping the clutch was a big "NO NO". The magic smoke escaped as quickly as foward propulsion ceased :-). Jag drivers manual says " for best acceleration off the line use about 2000rpm, allow cluch to fully engage before flooring it" Slipping the clutch on normal changes is clutch abuse and does not improve performance. In fact driving the Jag taught me to allow all the bits of clutch/gearbox etc to work at their own pace. Fast gear changes never happened with the Jag (Moss) gearbox. A pause in neutral between gears always helped. The same technique in my 55 Californian means silent gearchanges occur, and gearbox bits don't fall in the bottom of the box :-)) Australian car racing involves great races like Bathurst where "hard" drivers go quickly but often never finish because they break something. Rootes Australia entered the Humble Minx (badged as Sunbeam ) in the great race. It finished and put up lap times that I feel were nothing short of amazing considering that this was a stock unmodified sedan. I personally have learned the hard way about vehicle abuse. If it is broken I get to walk :-) so coaxing maximum performance without breaking anything has become second nature to me. The point that these Volvo parts are more readily available is a good one and adaptation of these parts should not be difficult, but to say that the substitution is needed because the original parts cannot take the power is not suffucient reason for me to make this change. In Australia I would simply adapt Holdem ( GM) parts as they are cheaply available where Volvo parts cost a premium in Australia. If he Rootes engine drivetrain is not holding together then it was not assembled correctly. I have rebuilt motors in my previous Hillmans and pushed them full throttle for up to 100miles without failures. We are talking about sitting on 6 -7000rpm for 20 miles at a stretch. To the extent the exhaust piping becomes more than red hot. I have gone on a bit here but the point I am trying to make is that the Standard Alpine drive train is more than capable of handling any amount of enthusiastic street use and a fair amount of classic racing use as well. Keith 55 Californian 56 Minx 68 Hunter ---- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 2:28 AM Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch The MGB cover and Volvo plate works well is cheaper and easier to get, I also think the quality of the MG/Volvo parts is better. Sorting the combination of pivot block and release arm is the only difficult part. The 7 inch Rootes plate seems to like to spit the springs out and the plates I have bought look like they were rebuilt in the back yard in grandpas spare time. I figure my 1725 is good for 130+hp and with the 205 tires I am not sure the stock 7 inch clutch could take the strain... Jim E Alkon wrote: The Volvo clutch throwout bearing is a ball race and runs on a guide tube around the gearbox input shaft. This type of clutch is totally incompatable with the Rootes carbon throwout bearing. If you want to use the Volvo clutch pressure plate then a guide tube and the correct type of throwout bearing must be used. This work is really fairly simple to do and made easier if you can steal the right parts off a Volvo. I have done this adaptation to couple a Jag box to a Chrysler Hemi V8. Unless you use dragracer clutch techniques. (7000rpm and step off the clutch.) then the Rootes supplied item will handle anything that your 1600 or 1725 engine can deliver. Keith _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 12:06:49 2003 From: ellis838@concentric.net To: "alpines@autox.team.net" Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 14:05:10 -0500 Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch Kevin, First you need to have an early flywheel SII or III [not a SI]and I would take it to the machine shop and have them chuck it up in the brake lath and peel a few pounds off it then balance the thing, they are mighty heavy. The MGB pressure plate I have not bought one from a parts house but just get the one for a carbon throw out bearing. The Volvo disc I used was for a 140 series but the same disc was also used for a bunch of other Volvos 240 and such it is 8 1/2 inch and a 1 inch 10 spline, when you go to the parts house this info will be listed in their part description. The pivot block and arm will vary dependent on your current trans and such. I have a all syncro SV and used the SV pivot block and a SII arm and throw out bearing which is a bigger bearing than the one used for the SV stock set up. The thing to do is check the movement of the arm and be sure it releases before you put the engine and trans back in which is something I failed to do and got to have another go at it.... which is just loads of fun when you are standing there looking at the darn thing and know it all has to come back out. I am very pleased with this set up and the clutch is smooth and operates well and has stood up to all the abuse I can give it. On the MG pressure plate you may be able to get one from the local parts house but the first one I ordered was the non carbon type same as the Volvo unit. I think the Triumph and Rover cover will bolt on also but these are most likely harder to get than the MG cover. Hope that helps let me know if you need any other information and I will do my best to help you out. Regards Jim Kevin McLemore wrote: >OK.. so to get this all down correctly (as I'm about to do an engine & >clutch job myself)... > >>From what I've read here, we need an "early MGB" clutch cover (pressure >plate)... Moss Motors lists two - they don't not seem to differentiate >between early or late, but only list one cover, with a second listed as a >'competition' cover: > > 190-080 -- $76.30 -- PRESSURE PLATE, new > 190-810 -- $89.95 -- PRESSURE PLATE, heavy duty/competition > >Their illustration shows a carbon bush type throwout bearing, so I suspect >either cover will do?? > >http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors/MossUSA/Shop/ViewProducts.mac/report?T=36265&ModelID=31000&PlateID=2481 > >As for the cluch disc (driven plate), which specific Volvo model are we >talking... is it for the B18 motors (122, P1800, etc)? Also, I haven't had >my Series V apart for ages (+15 years!) so I don't recall if I have the >coarse or fine spline input shaft on my OD tranny... is the Volvo plate >coarse or fine? > >Part numbers would be helpful if anyone has them! > >Thanks to all - >Kevin >B395015623 > >----Original Message Follows---- >From: Jarrid Gross >Reply-To: Jarrid Gross >To: Louis & Laila , Alkon , Alpine >list >Subject: RE: VOLVO Clutch >Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 09:14:53 -0800 > >Lou and piners, > >I had a 7.5 inch clutch (brand new) in a 1725 with stock mechanics, but >running fuel injection. The added torque was all it needed to begin >slipping the clutch at WOT. When the clutch begins to slip on its own, the >result is a snowball effect, where the clutch gets hotter, slips a tad more, >gets hotter slips a tad more, until you are puting all your engine power >into smoke and heat. > >Why Rootes used that tiny clutch on the 1725 is beyond me. I use the 8 or 8 >1/2 inch now, but it is soooo heavy. > >Jarrid > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net >[mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Louis & Laila >Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 8:34 AM >To: Alkon; Alpine list >Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch > >Keith, >You are correct in that weight of the car affects the clutch life. It is >equal with that of the torque of the engine. The coeifficent of friction, >caused by the springs in the clutch and the "stickiness" of the disc, resist >either the torque of the engine, or the weight of the car, which acts as >torque through the drive line. > >The series 5 style clutch will slip when there is a great deal of torque >from the engine. This slip translates into reduced performance, and >increased wear. This has been proven by many people who race Alpines in the >USA. > >It might also be noted that Rootes went to a different clutch for the H120 >and Holbay upgrades. > >I will use the series 5 style clutch when I can because I have lots (Lots!) >of them. I wouldn't consider them for any performance application. > >Lou >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Alkon" >To: "Alpine list" >Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 3:17 AM >Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch > >The load on the clutch is not only a factor of horsepower. The weight of the >vehicle has a large effect on clutch life. We used a small Ford zephyr >clutch behind a high performance 283 Chev in a Mk 3 Zephyr driving through >the original Ford four speed gearbox. This set up worked ok in the >lightweight Zephyr but the same clutch and gearbox would not have survived >if installed behind the same engine in a full size Chev. > >The Alpine is a small lightweight vehicle so I would expect clutch life to >be sufficient to last untill the engine needed attention. I drove a 3.4 >Jaguar with manual box and quickly learned that slipping the clutch was a >big "NO NO". The magic smoke escaped as quickly as foward propulsion ceased >:-). Jag drivers manual says " for best acceleration off the line use about >2000rpm, allow cluch to fully engage before flooring it" Slipping the clutch >on normal changes is clutch abuse and does not improve performance. In fact >driving the Jag taught me to allow all the bits of clutch/gearbox etc to >work at their own pace. Fast gear changes never happened with the Jag (Moss) >gearbox. A pause in neutral between gears always helped. The same technique >in my 55 Californian means silent gearchanges occur, and gearbox bits don't >fall in the bottom of the box :-)) > >Australian car racing involves great races like Bathurst where "hard" >drivers go quickly but often never finish because they break something. >Rootes Australia entered the Humble Minx (badged as Sunbeam ) in the great >race. It finished and put up lap times that I feel were nothing short of >amazing considering that this was a stock unmodified sedan. I personally >have learned the hard way about vehicle abuse. If it is broken I get to walk >:-) so coaxing maximum performance without breaking anything has become >second nature to me. > >The point that these Volvo parts are more readily available is a good one >and adaptation of these parts should not be difficult, but to say that the >substitution is needed because the original parts cannot take the power is >not suffucient reason for me to make this change. In Australia I would >simply adapt Holdem ( GM) parts as they are cheaply available where Volvo >parts cost a premium in Australia. > >If he Rootes engine drivetrain is not holding together then it was not >assembled correctly. I have rebuilt motors in my previous Hillmans and >pushed them full throttle for up to 100miles without failures. We are >talking about sitting on 6 -7000rpm for 20 miles at a stretch. To the >extent the exhaust piping becomes more than red hot. > >I have gone on a bit here but the point I am trying to make is that the >Standard Alpine drive train is more than capable of handling any amount of >enthusiastic street use and a fair amount of classic racing use as well. > >Keith >55 Californian >56 Minx >68 Hunter > >---- Original Message ----- >From: >To: >Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 2:28 AM >Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch > >The MGB cover and Volvo plate works well is cheaper and easier to get, I >also think the quality of the MG/Volvo parts is better. Sorting the >combination of pivot block and release arm is the only difficult part. The 7 >inch Rootes plate seems to like to spit the springs out and the plates I >have bought look like they were rebuilt in the back yard in grandpas spare >time. I figure my 1725 is good for 130+hp and with the 205 tires I am not >sure the stock 7 inch clutch could take the strain... >Jim E > >Alkon wrote: > >The Volvo clutch throwout bearing is a ball race and runs on a guide tube >around the gearbox input shaft. This type of clutch is totally incompatable >with the Rootes carbon throwout bearing. If you want to use the Volvo clutch >pressure plate then a guide tube and the correct type of throwout bearing >must be used. This work is really fairly simple to do and made easier if you >can steal the right parts off a Volvo. I have done this adaptation to couple >a Jag box to a Chrysler Hemi V8. > >Unless you use dragracer clutch techniques. (7000rpm and step off the >clutch.) then the Rootes supplied item will handle anything that your 1600 >or 1725 engine can deliver. > >Keith > >_________________________________________________________________ >Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 13:26:54 2003 From: PApple16@aol.com To: A.G.Whiteford@gcal.ac.uk, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 15:25:28 EST Subject: Re: Another alpine in a pop video ? I have a copy of that video, a large file slightly over 10 meg, if anyone wants it, I can send it. the key is most work computers will reject the file due to its size. soooo if any wants a copy I'll be happy to send it. just make sure your isp will accept a file larger than 10 meg Pau in RI From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 13:35:09 2003 From: PApple16@aol.com To: jservaites@woh.rr.com, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 15:30:00 EST Subject: Re: Champion Spark Plugs In a message dated 1/25/03 8:40:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, jservaites@woh.rr.com writes: > http://www.epinions.com/content_1646895236 > I have been a mechanic for many years, (over 20) and have found champion plugs to be useless on non american cars. I have also found, that these plugs seem to create head gasket problems, especially on Nissian and toyota. the constant missfiring when cold seems to create an uneven increase in cylinder presures causing premature failure. MY ANSWER: NEVER USE CHAMPION PLUGS PERIOD pAUL IN ri From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 15:50:08 2003 From: Jan Eyerman To: "Ohan ." , Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 17:49:11 -0500 Subject: Re: [Champion spark plugs] Try N9Y. I believe that the 1968-71 Plymouth Valiant 225 cubin inch six used them. Jan "Ohan ." wrote: Following the manual for my S-V which states using Champion spark plugs "N9C" and confirming this with most of the listers, I went to the local shop and all I could find were "RN9YC". Are these two one and the same? When I removed the plugs off the alpine "NGK BP6ES" and compared them with "RN9YC" they seem to be similar. I installed one in and it fit fine. I'm just not sure if I should start the car yet. Any suggestions??? Ohan Korlikian Vancouver, BC '64 Series IV Alpine GT B9405413 LRX (To be completed next century) '67 Series V Alpine B395009458 LRX www.sunbeamcanada.org _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 16:28:30 2003 From: "Alkon" To: "Jerry Jamison" Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 09:40:17 +1000 Subject: Re: Re: Great news on my Alpine today Jerry Check your spelling replace "autotox" with "autox" and all should be well. Computors are like idiot children, they will do EXACTLY what you tell them to, no matter how obvious the desired outcome is :-) Keith computor dunce :-) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Jamison" To: ; Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 7:15 PM Subject: Re: Re: Great news on my Alpine today > Help! forgive me for doing this but I cannot post messages to this > list, although I am a subscriber and receive all of the posts. When I > try to post a message to alpines@autotox.team.net it is returned to > me as a "fatal error", "undeliverable, Host Unknown". Can anyone > offer a suggestion, please? > Jerry > > > > ------------------ Reply Separator -------------------- > Originally From: RootesRooter@aol.com > Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today > Date: 01/26/2003 01:10pm > > > Hmmm. I wouldn't have thought that the occasional use of a 'broken- > springed' > clutch could wear out the thrust washers like that. Was there enough > left of > the original washers to tell if they'd been installed backwards? > > I've had a spring break before, but the noise it made left no doubt > that the > clutch needed replacing right away. > > Dick Sanders > > > ] > In a message dated 1/26/03 8:46:49 AM Pacific Standard Time, > bwana@c2i2.com > writes: > > << In this case, the cause is that a spring from the disc, one of > those used > to > absorb the shock of clutch engagement, broke into 5 pieces. These > lodged > into the diaphram of the clutch, so it took tremendous force to make > the > clutch work. This explains why the previous owner replaced the master > cylinder and slave cylinder with new parts! (the cadnium plated > stuff looks > real nice!!). SInce this engine was getting all of this force, the > only > thing it could do was concentrate this force on the thrust washers. > That is > what wore them out fast enough and destryed the engine. So, if your > clutch > seems to take more force than usual, or you hear metalic chunks > bouncing > around, and you replace your slave and master and the thing still > cha chinks > the gears when you shift, inspect the engine quick, because you > might be > ruining another difficult to find engine. Lou >> From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 18:02:36 2003 From: "Alkon" To: "Alpine list" Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 11:14:22 +1000 Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch The difference between the diaphragm spring clutch and the "long" type that has not been mentioned is the operating pressues. The diaphragm spring has more pressure on the driven plate but requires less pedal pressure to disengage than the long type. this translates into a nicer drive. Mixing a better pressure plate with the original driven plate is the easy way to keep compatability with the original gearbox. A larger diameter clutch often creates problems at higher RPM while solving grip or heat problems. Rootes went from the small early clutch to a larger unit then reverted to a smaller diameter later in production for some reason. If it is desired to fit a larger clutch then remachining the flywheel to suit a diaphragm style pressure plate and having the gearbox front bearing retainer modified to the Volvo style throwout bearing is the best option. Your clutch rebuilder can fit the Alpine driven plate splines into any size driven plate you desire. This option is best coupled with an adjustable clutch slave cylinder rod to optimise clutch operation. I still have doubts that the cluch is at fault. But short of fitting pick ups for data logging to the crank and gearbox input shaft and monitoring the differences in rpm of each item as well as clutch pedal position I can't conclusively prove anything. One of my speedway racing friends was the biggest cluch destroyer, denied any "bad habits". I put a brake light switch on his clutch pedal that turned on a big red light on the dash of his car every time he left his foot "resting" on the clutch pedal. This "lie indicator" could be seen from outside the car as well :-)) He soon modified his ingrained driving habit and we spent less time replacing burned out clutches. WE were racing Holden powered speedway cars. My car was a Torana XU1 with tripple Dellorto carbs, yellow terra heads ect. etc. Revved out to over 7000rpm never had a clutch failure using a standard Holden heavy duty clutch as fitted to the 1 tonner Ute range. Keith 55 Californian ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jarrid Gross" To: "Louis & Laila" ; "Alkon" ; "Alpine list" Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 3:14 AM Subject: RE: VOLVO Clutch > Lou and piners, > > I had a 7.5 inch clutch (brand new) in a 1725 with stock mechanics, but > running fuel injection. The added torque was all it needed to begin > slipping the clutch at WOT. When the clutch begins to slip on its own, the > result is a snowball effect, where the clutch gets hotter, slips a tad more, > gets hotter slips a tad more, until you are puting all your engine power > into smoke and heat. > > Why Rootes used that tiny clutch on the 1725 is beyond me. > I use the 8 or 8 1/2 inch now, but it is soooo heavy. > > Jarrid > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net > [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Louis & Laila > Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 8:34 AM > To: Alkon; Alpine list > Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch > > > Keith, > You are correct in that weight of the car affects the clutch life. It > is equal with that of the torque of the engine. The coeifficent of friction, > caused by the springs in the clutch and the "stickiness" of the disc, resist > either the torque of the engine, or the weight of the car, which acts as > torque through the drive line. > The series 5 style clutch will slip when there is a great deal of > torque from the engine. This slip translates into reduced performance, and > increased wear. This has been proven by many people who race Alpines in the > USA. > It might also be noted that Rootes went to a different clutch for the > H120 and Holbay upgrades. > I will use the series 5 style clutch when I can because I have lots > (Lots!) of them. I wouldn't consider them for any performance application. > Lou From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 19:38:38 2003 From: chuck nicodemus To: CANISDOG@aol.com Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 18:32:11 -0800 Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today NO NO NO... alpines@autox.team.net Gee Paul must I tell you everything~(8=) Chuck CANISDOG@aol.com wrote: >Jerry, >It's not "alpines@autotox.team.net" but rather "alpines@autotx.team.net" > >You have an extra "o" in the mo!! > >Paul From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 19:42:34 2003 From: CANISDOG@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 21:41:36 EST Subject: Re: Great news on my Alpine today Opps!! I had an extra "t" in the tree!! Sorry about that! Paul From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Mon Jan 27 20:14:57 2003 From: TIGEROOTES@aol.com To: Alpines@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 22:13:53 EST Subject: Re: [Champion spark plugs] Jan is correct: I had to "talk" the button-pusher at my local auto parts store into supplying spark plugs for a 1984 Subaru 1800 simply to get N-9Y plugs. Years ago in the auto section of the local Seattle newspaper I read that Champion was very worried about being able to continue manufacturing spark plugs...period! Apparently, they were running out of the particular clay they used for their ceramic (at the time) and they had not yet found an appropriate replacement. I wonder if they ever did? Jim From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 01:59:45 2003 From: "Russell & Neola" To: "Alpine List" Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 18:57:13 +1000 Subject: Rootes article Just found an article by our very own Vic Hughes about Rootes involvement at Bathurst in the latest issue of Australian Classic Car magazine. 'Onya Vic! Shame they mixed up some of the captions. Russ From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 09:53:08 2003 From: BAYER77@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 11:51:21 EST Subject: Sunbeam Poster or prints HI, My name is Bear I own a couple of sunbeam and what IM looking for is there any 3D or cut through posters or prints of sunbeam tigers or alpine out there. these are the type that show car/ engine/ chassis that you might find in dealer show rooms or auto adds. also looking for any blue prints or schematic drawing of sunbeams. they don't have to be orig. can be prints or copies. I plan on displaying them in the sunbeam area of my shop. any help would be great. thanx Bear From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 10:00:49 2003 From: ssage@socal.rr.com To: Tiger Mailing List , Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 08:54:36 -0800 Subject: Stop Light Blues A week or two ago I bragged how I had fixed the Tiger's stop light switch by taking it out, banging it on the ground a few times, and re-installing it. It did, in fact, work properly for a few days. A couple of days ago, though, I realised the switch is again working intermittently. (I have figured out a way to get it to temporarily work while still installed: Bang on it a bit with a wrench while it's still installed! Be careful not to damage any brake lines, though). I spoke to a Sunbeam expert who's first question was if I'm using silicone fluid and, in fact, I'm using Valvolene Syntech (I don't know if it's silicone, but it is synthetic). My friend said this is almost for sure the problem and that he's heard from numerous Sunbeamers that synthetic brake fluid does not allow the switch to function properly. Something about it coating the internal contacts so a circuit can't be made. I've since found reference to this on a couple of hot rod web sites, and that there are switches that will function using synthetic fluid (and those that will not). A suggestion was also made that you can fit a mechanical switch under the brake pedal. I visited a couple of parts stores and looked at a few mechanical, under the pedal switches, but none seemed like they had the right geometry to work in a Tiger or Alpine. Short of switching back to Girling fluid, has anyone else out there had this problem? Is there another switch that will work that will fit the thread down there, or has someone found a mechanical stop light switch that will go under the pedal without major surgery, or another solution? Steve Sage 1967 Tiger MK1A From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 10:19:01 2003 From: stubrennan@attbi.com To: ssage@socal.rr.com Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 17:17:45 +0000 Subject: Re: Stop Light Blues I've had silicon fluid in since '88 or '89 and the switch is fine. That said, I'm probably doomed for this spring, after the glaciers in my yard melt..... Having had quite a fight with the pedal mounted stoplight switch in my '89 Cherokee, I wondered if the design might not fit on the Tiger. Never tried it, though. Stu > A week or two ago I bragged how I had fixed the Tiger's stop light > switch by taking it out, banging it on the ground a few times, and > re-installing it. It did, in fact, work properly for a few days. A > couple of days ago, though, I realised the switch is again working > intermittently. (I have figured out a way to get it to temporarily work > while still installed: Bang on it a bit with a wrench while it's still > installed! Be careful not to damage any brake lines, though). > > I spoke to a Sunbeam expert who's first question was if I'm using > silicone fluid and, in fact, I'm using Valvolene Syntech (I don't know > if it's silicone, but it is synthetic). My friend said this is almost > for sure the problem and that he's heard from numerous Sunbeamers that > synthetic brake fluid does not allow the switch to function properly. > Something about it coating the internal contacts so a circuit can't be > made. I've since found reference to this on a couple of hot rod web > sites, and that there are switches that will function using synthetic > fluid (and those that will not). A suggestion was also made that you can > fit a mechanical switch under the brake pedal. I visited a couple of > parts stores and looked at a few mechanical, under the pedal switches, > but none seemed like they had the right geometry to work in a Tiger or > Alpine. > > Short of switching back to Girling fluid, has anyone else out there had > this problem? Is there another switch that will work that will fit the > thread down there, or has someone found a mechanical stop light switch > that will go under the pedal without major surgery, or another solution? > > Steve Sage > 1967 Tiger MK1A From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 12:58:41 2003 From: "Randall Antosiak" To: , "'Tiger Mailing List'" Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 11:57:40 -0800 Subject: RE: Stop Light Blues Steve - I had exactly this problem. I'm using silicone fluid in my brake system. After replacing the brake switch a couple of times without success, I decided to go to a mechanical switch. The switch has a "button" on one end, and when the button is depressed then the circuit is open. When the button is not depressed, then the circuit is closed. I mounted the switch under the dash so that the button end is in contact with the brake pedal. When the pedal is up (not braking) it presses against the switch and opens the circuit. When the pedal is depressed the circuit is closed and the brake lights go on. I purchased the switch from my neighborhood auto parts store and the bracket was home made out of some sheet metal. I've had no trouble with this in the last two years. - Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of ssage@socal.rr.com Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 8:55 AM To: Tiger Mailing List; Alpine Mailing List Subject: Stop Light Blues A week or two ago I bragged how I had fixed the Tiger's stop light switch by taking it out, banging it on the ground a few times, and re-installing it. It did, in fact, work properly for a few days. A couple of days ago, though, I realised the switch is again working intermittently. (I have figured out a way to get it to temporarily work while still installed: Bang on it a bit with a wrench while it's still installed! Be careful not to damage any brake lines, though). I spoke to a Sunbeam expert who's first question was if I'm using silicone fluid and, in fact, I'm using Valvolene Syntech (I don't know if it's silicone, but it is synthetic). My friend said this is almost for sure the problem and that he's heard from numerous Sunbeamers that synthetic brake fluid does not allow the switch to function properly. Something about it coating the internal contacts so a circuit can't be made. I've since found reference to this on a couple of hot rod web sites, and that there are switches that will function using synthetic fluid (and those that will not). A suggestion was also made that you can fit a mechanical switch under the brake pedal. I visited a couple of parts stores and looked at a few mechanical, under the pedal switches, but none seemed like they had the right geometry to work in a Tiger or Alpine. Short of switching back to Girling fluid, has anyone else out there had this problem? Is there another switch that will work that will fit the thread down there, or has someone found a mechanical stop light switch that will go under the pedal without major surgery, or another solution? Steve Sage 1967 Tiger MK1A From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 14:31:47 2003 From: ssage@socal.rr.com To: Randall Antosiak Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 13:25:23 -0800 Subject: Re: Stop Light Blues Randall Antosiak wrote: >Steve - I had exactly this problem. I'm using silicone fluid in my brake >system. After replacing the brake switch a couple of times without success, >I decided to go to a mechanical switch. The switch has a "button" on one >end, and when the button is depressed then the circuit is open. When the >button is not depressed, then the circuit is closed. I mounted the switch >under the dash so that the button end is in contact with the brake pedal. >When the pedal is up (not braking) it presses against the switch and opens >the circuit. When the pedal is depressed the circuit is closed and the >brake lights go on. I purchased the switch from my neighborhood auto parts >store and the bracket was home made out of some sheet metal. I've had no >trouble with this in the last two years. >- Randy > > > Randy: Excellent info. After your e-mail, I just looked at the brake pedal again, and the way you describe it now makes sense in that the switch goes above the pedal arm, not below the pedal. I had looked at a couple of those switches at the parts store and assumed that I needed a switch that would fit under the pedal. I had assumed that the switch had to be pressed to make the brakes light up, not the other way around. The switches just have a short button, so I couldn't figure out how I could rig something under the pedal that would work since the play of the brake pedal is a lot longer than those switch buttons. Thanks to your explanation, it should be pretty easy to make a bracket to attach to the firewall above the pedal and be able to adjust the distance of the switch to make contact with the pedal arm. It's off to the parts store again. Thanks for the help!! Steve Sage From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 14:44:11 2003 From: niceone@attbi.com To: "Randall Antosiak" Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 21:43:02 +0000 Subject: RE: Stop Light Blues Sounds like a lot of you have switched to silicone brake fluid. How do you like it? Is the pedal kind of mushy? Do you have boosters? Requires a complete brake system rebuild and replacement of all lines correct? -- TIA, Bill > Steve - I had exactly this problem. I'm using silicone fluid in my brake > system. After replacing the brake switch a couple of times without success, > I decided to go to a mechanical switch. The switch has a "button" on one > end, and when the button is depressed then the circuit is open. When the > button is not depressed, then the circuit is closed. I mounted the switch > under the dash so that the button end is in contact with the brake pedal. > When the pedal is up (not braking) it presses against the switch and opens > the circuit. When the pedal is depressed the circuit is closed and the > brake lights go on. I purchased the switch from my neighborhood auto parts > store and the bracket was home made out of some sheet metal. I've had no > trouble with this in the last two years. > - Randy > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of ssage@socal.rr.com > Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 8:55 AM > To: Tiger Mailing List; Alpine Mailing List > Subject: Stop Light Blues > > > A week or two ago I bragged how I had fixed the Tiger's stop light > switch by taking it out, banging it on the ground a few times, and > re-installing it. It did, in fact, work properly for a few days. A > couple of days ago, though, I realised the switch is again working > intermittently. (I have figured out a way to get it to temporarily work > while still installed: Bang on it a bit with a wrench while it's still > installed! Be careful not to damage any brake lines, though). > > I spoke to a Sunbeam expert who's first question was if I'm using > silicone fluid and, in fact, I'm using Valvolene Syntech (I don't know > if it's silicone, but it is synthetic). My friend said this is almost > for sure the problem and that he's heard from numerous Sunbeamers that > synthetic brake fluid does not allow the switch to function properly. > Something about it coating the internal contacts so a circuit can't be > made. I've since found reference to this on a couple of hot rod web > sites, and that there are switches that will function using synthetic > fluid (and those that will not). A suggestion was also made that you can > fit a mechanical switch under the brake pedal. I visited a couple of > parts stores and looked at a few mechanical, under the pedal switches, > but none seemed like they had the right geometry to work in a Tiger or > Alpine. > > Short of switching back to Girling fluid, has anyone else out there had > this problem? Is there another switch that will work that will fit the > thread down there, or has someone found a mechanical stop light switch > that will go under the pedal without major surgery, or another solution? > > Steve Sage > 1967 Tiger MK1A From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 16:04:20 2003 From: Victor Hughes To: Russell & Neola Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 09:56:35 +1100 Subject: Re: Rootes article Thanks for letting me know it's been published, Russ, it's more than the magazine did! I submitted it about August last year and they said they were interested but it would be published "sometime later in the year". They never got back to me about checking the photo captions, even though I smoothed the way with Autopics to let them use them. Vic Russell & Neola wrote: > Just found an article by our very own Vic Hughes about Rootes involvement at > Bathurst in the latest issue of Australian Classic Car magazine. > > 'Onya Vic! > > Shame they mixed up some of the captions. > > Russ From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 16:13:45 2003 From: "Alkon" To: "Alpine list" Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 09:25:19 +1000 Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch Hi Jim That is a good idea. That fraction of a second it takes to figure out which direction it want to go often is long enough to find yourself parked somewhere without a prior booking :-) However on the speedway I found that the front of the car was always going in the direction the front wheels were pointing, the back could do whatever it liked. Rally drivers use the brake thingies from time to time. Speedway drivers only use them to stop in the pits :-) Under hard braking front wheels develop enormous slip angles until they totally lose grip. Rally drivers often lock up front wheels aproaching a tight corner, releasing the brakes alows the front wheels to resume rotation which can give a neck wrenching turn in the direction the wheels happen to be pointing. Immediate application of opposite lock in the other direction is required to straighten up. Saw crazy bloke in a Saab do this and slot the car through a cattle grid about 10 feet wide without breaking step. His navigator was reading his course notes at the time. Man there are only two people in this world that I would trust to drive me like that (and I am one of them :-) ) without freaking out a little. With my little heart problems I think my racing days are probably over. Licence authorities get funny about that stuff :-) Dirt track racing on a 1/4 mile circuit is much gentler on clutches and brakes. Like I mentioned brakes are for parking it in the pits (they don't even fit them on speedway bikes) Clutch is used to get moving or to assist restarting when pushed by the tow truck. I replaced the Aussie four speed in my XU1 with a 1 tonner three speed and fitted gearing and tyre size to give about 80mph in second gear. First gear was used to get rolling or to put it on the trailer otherwise used second. We had rolling starts so gear changing in a race was not needed. One pedal control, push down for faster and more sideways. Turn wheel thing to keep front going in the right direction. Obstacles are driven round, over or through :-). because the wheels are mostly slipping on the dirt surface the stress on the clutch is probably less than in a road driven car. On my end of season strip down the clutch driven plate still looked like a new one. Of course I had replaced several axles and a dif centre in the duration :-) Keith 55 Californian ----- Original Message ----- From: TIGEROOTES@aol.com To: alkon@bigpond.com.au Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 1:27 PM Subject: Re: VOLVO Clutch Keith, Obviously you have been around. On another tangent, I always put a loop of tape (for a visual reference point) on the top center-point of the steering wheel of any car or boat I was crewing for. It really paid-off in circle-track dirt-racing and surprisingly well in hydroplane racing. Jim From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 16:42:09 2003 From: Jerry Jamison To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 18:41:09 -0500 (EST) Subject: apology plus interesting parts Hello, My apology for stepping on the "Great news....." thread. I was foolishly misspelling the list address. However, I do have some great news for some of you. Starting in 1973 I have been accumulating parts, and I presently have two cars - Ser V's (one with a machine shop prepared, new engine with OD). My dream was to someday kick back and as a hobbyist build up a beauty of a car, or two. Ain't gonna happen. I have quite a few parts - all original - and some very interesting. New, original hood badges in the box; a couple of OD's; new OD shaft; lots of new and used lenses; wire wheels; LAT-70 wheels; original radio (I believe); camshafts, crankshafts, blocks, and heads; all weatherstripping (stored since 1976 and later and still seems to be in good condition); many gauges; hardtops; fender flares; etc., etc. I have not surveyed my inventory in years. My question is: what would be a good strategy to sell these parts and obtain something close to their fair-market value without a huge undertaking on my part? Any suggestions? Thanks, and again my apologies. Jerry From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 17:12:39 2003 From: Steve Laifman To: Randall Antosiak Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 16:06:09 -0800 Subject: Re: Stop Light Blues Randall & Steve, If you are going the mechanical switch route, the early Mustang (and probably all Ford products of the era) used simple brackets and a mechanical switch that was normally closed. When the brake pedal was up the pedal LEVER, not the pedal, kept the switch lever in the "compressed", or OFF position. Depressing the pedal moved the attached arm away from the switch, which then closed the circuit to the lights. The amount of pedal travel to do this was adjustable. Worked quite well for 30 years, and they are still available at the Ford and Classic Mustang supply houses (some of which are linked in Online Resources in TigersUnited.com. Steve Randall Antosiak wrote: >Steve - I had exactly this problem. I'm using silicone fluid in my brake >system. After replacing the brake switch a couple of times without success, >I decided to go to a mechanical switch. The switch has a "button" on one >end, and when the button is depressed then the circuit is open. When the >button is not depressed, then the circuit is closed. I mounted the switch >under the dash so that the button end is in contact with the brake pedal. >When the pedal is up (not braking) it presses against the switch and opens >the circuit. When the pedal is depressed the circuit is closed and the >brake lights go on. I purchased the switch from my neighborhood auto parts >store and the bracket was home made out of some sheet metal. I've had no >trouble with this in the last two years. >- Randy > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net]On >Behalf Of ssage@socal.rr.com >Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 8:55 AM >To: Tiger Mailing List; Alpine Mailing List >Subject: Stop Light Blues > > >A week or two ago I bragged how I had fixed the Tiger's stop light >switch by taking it out, banging it on the ground a few times, and >re-installing it. It did, in fact, work properly for a few days. A >couple of days ago, though, I realised the switch is again working >intermittently. (I have figured out a way to get it to temporarily work >while still installed: Bang on it a bit with a wrench while it's still >installed! Be careful not to damage any brake lines, though). > >I spoke to a Sunbeam expert who's first question was if I'm using >silicone fluid and, in fact, I'm using Valvolene Syntech (I don't know >if it's silicone, but it is synthetic). My friend said this is almost >for sure the problem and that he's heard from numerous Sunbeamers that >synthetic brake fluid does not allow the switch to function properly. >Something about it coating the internal contacts so a circuit can't be >made. I've since found reference to this on a couple of hot rod web >sites, and that there are switches that will function using synthetic >fluid (and those that will not). A suggestion was also made that you can >fit a mechanical switch under the brake pedal. I visited a couple of >parts stores and looked at a few mechanical, under the pedal switches, >but none seemed like they had the right geometry to work in a Tiger or >Alpine. > >Short of switching back to Girling fluid, has anyone else out there had >this problem? Is there another switch that will work that will fit the >thread down there, or has someone found a mechanical stop light switch >that will go under the pedal without major surgery, or another solution? > >Steve Sage >1967 Tiger MK1A > > > -- Steve Laifman Editor http://www.TigersUnited.com From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 17:39:27 2003 From: Victor Hughes To: BAYER77@aol.com Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 11:31:41 +1100 Subject: Re: Sunbeam Poster or prints Bear, Is this the kind of thing your looking for? http://www.team.net/www/rootes/sunbeam/alpine/mk1-5/images/cutaway.gif I also had a feeling there were some cutaway illustrations in the Tiger and Alpine Gold Portfolio (collection of road tests and other literature. Vic BAYER77@aol.com wrote: > HI, My name is Bear I own a couple of sunbeam and what IM looking for is > there any 3D or cut through posters or prints of sunbeam tigers or alpine out > there. these are the type that show car/ engine/ chassis that you might find > in dealer show rooms or auto adds. also looking for any blue prints or > schematic drawing of sunbeams. they don't have to be orig. can be prints or > copies. I plan on displaying them in the sunbeam area of my shop. any help > would be great. thanx Bear From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 18:32:21 2003 From: ssage@socal.rr.com To: Steve Laifman Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 17:25:46 -0800 Subject: Re: Stop Light Blues Steve Laifman wrote: > Randall & Steve, > > If you are going the mechanical switch route, the early Mustang (and > probably all Ford products of the era) used simple brackets and a > mechanical switch that was normally closed. When the brake pedal was > up the pedal LEVER, not the pedal, kept the switch lever in the > "compressed", or OFF position. Depressing the pedal moved the attached > arm away from the switch, which then closed the circuit to the lights. > The amount of pedal travel to do this was adjustable. Worked quite > well for 30 years, and they are still available at the Ford and > Classic Mustang supply houses (some of which are linked in Online > Resources in TigersUnited.com. > > Steve > Steve: Good suggestion. I'll hit the TigersUnited site right now for the links. Thanks. Steve Sage From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 18:42:32 2003 From: CANISDOG@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 20:41:20 EST Subject: Re: apology plus interesting parts I think the this and the Tiger list is a good place to start. There is also a "for sale" section on the web site. If people need it they will call. Paul From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 19:52:40 2003 From: Victor Hughes To: "'Tiger Mailing List'" , Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 13:44:56 +1100 Subject: Re: Stop Light Blues I remember these, simple reliable system, even the Cortina had them. But make sure you get the adjustment right, a mate of mine had a brand new Cortina in which the battery kept going flat - he and the Ford dealer couldn't figure out why - then I followed him somewhere and noticed his brake lights were permanently on, tracked to an out-of-adjustment switch. Vic ssage@socal.rr.com wrote: > Steve Laifman wrote: > > > Randall & Steve, > > > > If you are going the mechanical switch route, the early Mustang (and > > probably all Ford products of the era) used simple brackets and a > > mechanical switch that was normally closed. When the brake pedal was > > up the pedal LEVER, not the pedal, kept the switch lever in the > > "compressed", or OFF position. Depressing the pedal moved the attached > > arm away from the switch, which then closed the circuit to the lights. > > The amount of pedal travel to do this was adjustable. Worked quite > > well for 30 years, and they are still available at the Ford and > > Classic Mustang supply houses (some of which are linked in Online > > Resources in TigersUnited.com. > > > > Steve > > > Steve: > Good suggestion. I'll hit the TigersUnited site right now for the links. > > Thanks. > Steve Sage From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 20:16:24 2003 From: Theo Smit To: ssage@socal.rr.com Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 20:13:28 -0700 Subject: Re: Stop Light Blues Steve, The best way to make an under-the-pedal switch work is to mount it above the pedal, so that there is no chance of it interfering with the pedal action. Get one from any Japanese car at your local autowrecker's. Theo From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Tue Jan 28 22:31:52 2003 From: "Bob Palmer" To: "Theo Smit" , Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 21:30:22 -0800 Subject: RE: Stop Light Blues Theo, I installed one as you describe in July 2001, after having a rupture of the hydraulic switch resulting in loss of braking. I know of another such instance with a Tiger, which resulted in the Tiger rear-ending the car in front of it. So, if only for safety reasons, I would recommend replacing the hydraulic switch with a plug and installing a mechanical unit, which fits conveniently under the box frame just ahead of the brake pedal arm. Just about any old switch will do; I found a new one a NAPA. I wrote up the details which may have been posted on the TU Website, but I haven't been able to access it for awhile to check. Hydraulically operated switches are fragile and only carry about 5A of current. I found the following anecdote regarding the installation of hydraulic brake switches that some may find helpful: Brake Light Switch From: LONETUNE Am I the last one to know about this or what? after putting in four brake light switches in the last year or so, I finally asked the guy at the parts store how come...he asked me how I was putting them in and I said screwing them in by hand and then cranking them down tight with a pair of channel locks...he looked at me like I just asked to have sex with his wife...he proceeded to tell me that the switches are cheap, lightweight aluminum and plastic and as such, they are fragile to the tender touch of the channel locks...he then showed me K & D tools part number 2569 oil pressure and stoplight switch socket that cost a grand total of 8 bucks (less then the cost of 1 2 brake switches I must add) designed to tighten and remove switches...it's a special designed 1 1/16 inch socket...to all those out there that never saw this tool, now you know...to the old pros out there, sorry to take up the bandwidth Bob Palmer rpalmer@ucsd.edu rpalmer@brobeck.com rpalmerbob@adelphia.net From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 29 06:41:25 2003 From: John Slade To: Bill Kernan Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 08:40:12 -0500 Subject: Re: Remove & Replace gas tanks Bill, This symptom is usually associated with either a leaking rubber filler neck, or a perished rubber cross tube. Although you might have a hole in one or other of your tanks, I very much doubt that your holes would be half way up the tank, rather than in the bottom, where any water would accumulate and rust through. The cross tube is possibly the most likely cause. This tube cannot be seen when properly installed, hence many owners are unaware of its presence, yet it is vital to the proper functioning of the two tanks. It is used to ensure that the left hand tank can vent its air when being filled, and the tank is therefore full of gasoline rather than air. It joins a small pipe welded to the top front corner of the left tank to a small female fitting on the front side of the rubber filler neck, and passes across the car inside the metalwork between the trunk and the passenger compartment. After many years of doing its job, the pipe gets very hard, and cracks, venting the gas fumes which you are experiencing. A bit of a pain, but not overly difficult to replace. Since it is tough to thread the pipe through the passageway in the metalwork, I recommend if and when you pull out the old pipe, you tie a long, strong string to the end of the pipe to assist you in pulling the replacement back through the same pasage. Hope this helps. John Slade Manotick, ON From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 29 07:30:34 2003 From: SunbeamAlpine64@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 09:28:59 EST Subject: Fuel leak at Carburretor - Not Alpine Firstly thanks for all the tips and advice I received regarding my previous post. I'm delighted to say I got the engine running last night (first time it's turned in 18yrs) and it registered good oil pressure and ran smoothly although very noisily as both exhausts are virtually non existent. I had to cut the test short before she got up to temperature when I noticed a fuel leak from fuel feed pipe at the carb. On closer inspection I realised that the brass tube to which the fuel line is secured had worked loose from the carb body - How can I fix it? Any advice, as always is gratefully received. Mark 1964 Alpine Series 4 GT 1968 Reliant Scimitar Coupe 1991 Volkswagen Passat ha ha ha From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 29 09:35:53 2003 From: TIGEROOTES@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net, tigers@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 11:34:18 EST Subject: RE: Stop Light Blues I had an unusual failure of my brake light switch in one of my Rootesmobiles. One time in heavy traffic I had to dynamite the brakes and instantly, the gauges dropped, the turn signals quit, etc. Somehow, I blew the key-switched fuse. When I replaced the fuse it immediately blew again. To make a long story "short"...that's exactly what happened: the internals of the hydraulic switch (which are isolated from electrical ground) decided to come into contact with the switch case. I replaced the switch and everything was fine again. Jim Leach Pacific Tiger Club Seattle From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 29 15:41:09 2003 From: "Louis & Laila" To: Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 15:37:04 -0700 Subject: Anyone want to host a Sunbeamer away from home? Howdy everyone. There is a chance that I will be passing through your neck of the woods if you live in New Brunswick Maine, or Rota Spain. I can't really give the particulars because of the nature of my travels, but it will be around 7-15 Feb. If you would like to get together for lunch, dinner, or beer, please email me and we can work something out. Lou From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 29 21:22:11 2003 From: "Kevin McLemore" To: edalsj@igs.net, wkernan@ameritech.net Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 23:18:50 -0500 Subject: Re: Remove & Replace gas tanks I had a lovely amount of gas smell when I first got my 'beam.. turned out to be the cross vent tube that runs under the rear bulkhead... the silly sod who installed the soft-top had drilled it for pop-rivets along the back (where the top attaches to the body).. and had nicely drilled holes all along the tube!!! Ha... lovely. -Kevin McLemore ----Original Message Follows---- From: John Slade Reply-To: John Slade To: Bill Kernan CC: "List, Alpine" Subject: Re: Remove & Replace gas tanks Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 08:40:12 -0500 Bill, This symptom is usually associated with either a leaking rubber filler neck, or a perished rubber cross tube. Although you might have a hole in one or other of your tanks, I very much doubt that your holes would be half way up the tank, rather than in the bottom, where any water would accumulate and rust through. The cross tube is possibly the most likely cause. This tube cannot be seen when properly installed, hence many owners are unaware of its presence, yet it is vital to the proper functioning of the two tanks. It is used to ensure that the left hand tank can vent its air when being filled, and the tank is therefore full of gasoline rather than air. It joins a small pipe welded to the top front corner of the left tank to a small female fitting on the front side of the rubber filler neck, and passes across the car inside the metalwork between the trunk and the passenger compartment. After many years of doing its job, the pipe gets very hard, and cracks, venting the gas fumes which you are experiencing. A bit of a pain, but not overly difficult to replace. Since it is tough to thread the pipe through the passageway in the metalwork, I recommend if and when you pull out the old pipe, you tie a long, strong string to the end of the pipe to assist you in pulling the replacement back through the same pasage. Hope this helps. John Slade Manotick, ON _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Wed Jan 29 21:24:09 2003 From: Theo Smit To: rpalmer@ucsd.edu Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 21:19:36 -0700 Subject: Re: Stop Light Blues Years ago I fragged an oil pressure switch and bought such a socket to replace it. They are a great thing - for some jobs it just doesn't pay to not have the right tool. Theo From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 30 09:40:43 2003 From: Jan Eyerman To: "Randall Antosiak" , , Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 11:39:08 -0500 Subject: Re: [RE: Stop Light Blues] That is essentially the way the brake light switch on the '69 Alpine fastback works, with a little metal bracket holding it Jan "Randall Antosiak" wrote: Steve - I had exactly this problem. I'm using silicone fluid in my brake system. After replacing the brake switch a couple of times without success, I decided to go to a mechanical switch. The switch has a "button" on one end, and when the button is depressed then the circuit is open. When the button is not depressed, then the circuit is closed. I mounted the switch under the dash so that the button end is in contact with the brake pedal. When the pedal is up (not braking) it presses against the switch and opens the circuit. When the pedal is depressed the circuit is closed and the brake lights go on. I purchased the switch from my neighborhood auto parts store and the bracket was home made out of some sheet metal. I've had no trouble with this in the last two years. - Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of ssage@socal.rr.com Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 8:55 AM To: Tiger Mailing List; Alpine Mailing List Subject: Stop Light Blues A week or two ago I bragged how I had fixed the Tiger's stop light switch by taking it out, banging it on the ground a few times, and re-installing it. It did, in fact, work properly for a few days. A couple of days ago, though, I realised the switch is again working intermittently. (I have figured out a way to get it to temporarily work while still installed: Bang on it a bit with a wrench while it's still installed! Be careful not to damage any brake lines, though). I spoke to a Sunbeam expert who's first question was if I'm using silicone fluid and, in fact, I'm using Valvolene Syntech (I don't know if it's silicone, but it is synthetic). My friend said this is almost for sure the problem and that he's heard from numerous Sunbeamers that synthetic brake fluid does not allow the switch to function properly. Something about it coating the internal contacts so a circuit can't be made. I've since found reference to this on a couple of hot rod web sites, and that there are switches that will function using synthetic fluid (and those that will not). A suggestion was also made that you can fit a mechanical switch under the brake pedal. I visited a couple of parts stores and looked at a few mechanical, under the pedal switches, but none seemed like they had the right geometry to work in a Tiger or Alpine. Short of switching back to Girling fluid, has anyone else out there had this problem? Is there another switch that will work that will fit the thread down there, or has someone found a mechanical stop light switch that will go under the pedal without major surgery, or another solution? Steve Sage 1967 Tiger MK1A From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 30 09:46:57 2003 From: Jan Eyerman To: Victor Hughes , Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 11:45:33 -0500 Subject: Re: [Re: Rootes article] Can anybody send me a copy??? Thanks, Jan Victor Hughes wrote: Thanks for letting me know it's been published, Russ, it's more than the magazine did! I submitted it about August last year and they said they were interested but it would be published "sometime later in the year". They never got back to me about checking the photo captions, even though I smoothed the way with Autopics to let them use them. Vic Russell & Neola wrote: > Just found an article by our very own Vic Hughes about Rootes involvement at > Bathurst in the latest issue of Australian Classic Car magazine. > > 'Onya Vic! > > Shame they mixed up some of the captions. > > Russ From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 30 09:54:21 2003 From: robert.m.bailey@att.net To: Jan Eyerman Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:52:52 +0000 Subject: Re: [RE: Stop Light Blues] I too have had a great deal of trouble with my stop light switch. I do use Girling. I bled the system a couple of times, primed the switch and it still wouldn't work 9 out of 10 times. I found I had to take the switch out and carefully insert a small piece of wooden dowel into the switch. I found that I could exercise the switch. Moving the diaphram back and forth seemed to do the trick. If it seems to cut out on me again, back to the parts store I go for the switch y'all are talking about. Robert Bailey > That is essentially the way the brake light switch on the '69 Alpine fastback > works, with a little metal bracket holding it > > Jan > > > > > "Randall Antosiak" wrote: > Steve - I had exactly this problem. I'm using silicone fluid in my brake > system. After replacing the brake switch a couple of times without success, > I decided to go to a mechanical switch. The switch has a "button" on one > end, and when the button is depressed then the circuit is open. When the > button is not depressed, then the circuit is closed. I mounted the switch > under the dash so that the button end is in contact with the brake pedal. > When the pedal is up (not braking) it presses against the switch and opens > the circuit. When the pedal is depressed the circuit is closed and the > brake lights go on. I purchased the switch from my neighborhood auto parts > store and the bracket was home made out of some sheet metal. I've had no > trouble with this in the last two years. > - Randy > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of ssage@socal.rr.com > Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 8:55 AM > To: Tiger Mailing List; Alpine Mailing List > Subject: Stop Light Blues > > > A week or two ago I bragged how I had fixed the Tiger's stop light > switch by taking it out, banging it on the ground a few times, and > re-installing it. It did, in fact, work properly for a few days. A > couple of days ago, though, I realised the switch is again working > intermittently. (I have figured out a way to get it to temporarily work > while still installed: Bang on it a bit with a wrench while it's still > installed! Be careful not to damage any brake lines, though). > > I spoke to a Sunbeam expert who's first question was if I'm using > silicone fluid and, in fact, I'm using Valvolene Syntech (I don't know > if it's silicone, but it is synthetic). My friend said this is almost > for sure the problem and that he's heard from numerous Sunbeamers that > synthetic brake fluid does not allow the switch to function properly. > Something about it coating the internal contacts so a circuit can't be > made. I've since found reference to this on a couple of hot rod web > sites, and that there are switches that will function using synthetic > fluid (and those that will not). A suggestion was also made that you can > fit a mechanical switch under the brake pedal. I visited a couple of > parts stores and looked at a few mechanical, under the pedal switches, > but none seemed like they had the right geometry to work in a Tiger or > Alpine. > > Short of switching back to Girling fluid, has anyone else out there had > this problem? Is there another switch that will work that will fit the > thread down there, or has someone found a mechanical stop light switch > that will go under the pedal without major surgery, or another solution? > > Steve Sage > 1967 Tiger MK1A From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 30 11:37:17 2003 From: Paul Heuer To: Vic Hughes Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 12:35:57 -0600 Subject: Re: Rootes Article Don't worry Vic, They'll probably send you a nice letter with the big cheque they pay their magazine contributors ;-) I'll have to get someone at home to buy a copy for me. Cheers, Paul. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 30 13:46:18 2003 From: "Ed Esslinger" To: Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 14:44:27 -0600 Subject: TESTING RESULTS Thanks to the efforts of many LBC owners, I am happy to report that we have been successful in adapting the Sunbeam Wiper Control Unit with great results, to the following cars in the list below. This unit provides intermittent operation for single or two speed wipers, protection against scratching of windshield and motor overheating. Should work on most cars that use the Lucas wiper motor. It can be supplied in POS or NEG ground. These unites are designed and made by me personally, they are not some imported junk. If your car is not on the list and you would like to test one on your car please contact me. You can see all the details at http://www.tigersunited.com/tech_tips/EsslingerWiper/rt-EsslingerWiper1.asp Please look at ALL the pages. Thanks For your Time. Best Regards Ed Austin Healey 56-67 GT6 MGA & MGB Spitfire Sprite & Midget 58-79 Triumph TR-4 TRI 1300 Cool Cat Eddie ,1 S3 GT,3 S4's, 2 S5's, 2 MK1 Tigers From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jan 30 16:41:59 2003 From: Steven Silverstein To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 18:39:01 -0500 Subject: Washer bottle on the Series I-III tip.... If you are on a budget I have found that McMasterCarr (http://www.mcmaster.com/) stocks a round 32 oz. plastic bottle which is identical in size to the plastic bottle used on the Series I-III. It is about $6.50 and I am sure these bottles could be sourced locally, too since it must be a "stock" size for all round 32 oz bottles (3 5/8 dia x 7" approx). I was planning on using mine as a radiator overflow tank and didn't want to wreck my original bottle. Anyway, as a cheap alternative it works.. Steve From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 31 12:13:19 2003 From: Bill & Denise Harben To: Alpine List Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 11:12:22 -0800 Subject: Pressurizing Oil system Hi, I am ready to start my SV for the first time in 16 years. Prior to starting, I want to pressurize the oil system so I don't scratch the bearings. Any good ideas on how to do this? Thanks, Bill Harben Auburn CA From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 31 14:04:36 2003 From: ellis838@concentric.net To: "alpines@autox.team.net" Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 16:02:14 -0500 Subject: Re: Pressurizing Oil system The only way I can think to do this is to buy an Accumulator made by Moroso. Which is a can that holds oil and is plumbed into one of the oil galley holes. You would then use a air hose to pressurize, or at least that is how I understand it to work. I bought one to use on my car and gave up due to no space to mount the thing. No way to spin the pump and not turn over the engine and the engines usually take a while after the start to build up good oil pressure always scares me sitting there watching the gauge when firing a new engine no oil pressure for 30 or 40 seconds.... 16 years is a long time but I have seen these engines fire up with no problems after sitting a long time. Guess you could pull the plugs and spin it until you get oil pressure might be easier on the bearings not to have compression. I would also worry about the cam and it could wipe a lobe pretty quick. Short of the oil accumulator or dropping the pan and putting assembly lube on the crank I would drain the oil pop the valve cover and pour the fresh oil over the rockers and along the lifters and cam light it off and hope for the best. Let us know what happens. Jim E Bill & Denise Harben wrote: >Hi, > >I am ready to start my SV for the first time in 16 years. Prior to >starting, I want to pressurize the oil system so I don't scratch the >bearings. > >Any good ideas on how to do this? > >Thanks, > >Bill Harben >Auburn CA > >. From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 31 14:45:04 2003 From: PApple16@aol.com To: ellis838@concentric.net, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 16:43:19 EST Subject: Re: Pressurizing Oil system Any good engine rebuilder should be able to supply you a kit, that contains a number of adapters, that screw into the oil pressure guage fitting on the motor, it also has about 3 feet of plastic tubing and an aresol can full of prelube. all you do, is hook it up and release the contents of the can, which pressure lubes the entire oiling system. these kits come with any quality rebuilt short or long block, as well as complete engines. have used them many times installing new engines over the years. the most common name I remember is GSM, who is a major relpacement engine company. (if they still exist) Paul in RI From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 31 20:10:29 2003 From: "Alkon" To: "Alpine list" Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 13:21:41 +1000 Subject: Re: Pressurizing Oil system Hi Bill Haven't tried this trick on the Rootesmobile but race engine builders pull the distributor and poke a suitable drive that looks like the end of the dist without the gear down the hole. Spin it with electric drill to turn oil pump and instant pre lube everywhere. Just make sure you turn it all in the same direction the distributor turns. If you dont want to pull the distributor then another easy way is to pull off the connection for the oil pressue gauge and attach about a metre length of copper tube to the fitting. Point the tube upwards and attach a container to it that allows you to fill it with engine oil.. The head of 1 metre will pressurise the whole oil system and oil will slowly reach every part of the engine filling the oil filter and oil galleries if you leave it for a while the oil will slowly pass from the container into the sump. After some has found its way through turn the engine over slowly by hand to encourage further distribution. When it has all found its way into the sump replace oil pressure line and start your engine. This trick does not get oil on the little ends as they are splash fed or help the rings. A squirt of light oil (sewing machine style ) down each spark plug hole a few days before starting it all helps here. Be prepared for a little smoke on start up that should clear as the engine comes up to temperature. I have not worried about this proceedure myself as I always heavilly prelube new engines. With older engines I use the squirt down the plug holes and hand crank them with plugs removed to fill the oil ways. Then start it up. Only previously unused bearings will have no residual oil (new engine so I prelube them on assembly :-)) so I have had no ill effects from doing things this way. Keith 55 Californian ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill & Denise Harben" To: "Alpine List" Sent: Saturday, February 01, 2003 5:12 AM Subject: Pressurizing Oil system > Hi, > > I am ready to start my SV for the first time in 16 years. Prior to > starting, I want to pressurize the oil system so I don't scratch the > bearings. > > Any good ideas on how to do this? > > Thanks, > > Bill Harben > Auburn CA From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 31 20:41:16 2003 From: ellis838@concentric.net To: "alpines@autox.team.net" Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 22:38:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Pressurizing Oil system Now that is a great item a cheap throw away pre oiler [well I am guessing on the cheap thing] thanks for telling us about it. I spend a lot of time around people who build engines and have never heard of it, will do some asking and see what they say. Is it something that has been around a long time? just wonder if the modern assembly lubes which are about as sticky and slippery as a thing can get have pushed it to the way side. The Moroso accumulator works on the same principle just is not cheap and you leave it installed and if oil pressure drops it feeds its load of oil to the system then sucks it back up when the pressure rises. Jim E PApple16@aol.com wrote: > Any good engine rebuilder should be able to supply you a kit, that > contains a number of adapters, that screw into the oil pressure guage > fitting on the motor, it also has about 3 feet of plastic tubing and > an aresol can full of prelube. all you do, is hook it up and release > the contents of the can, which pressure lubes the entire oiling system. > > these kits come with any quality rebuilt short or long block, as well > as complete engines. have used them many times installing new engines > over the years. the most common name I remember is GSM, who is a major > relpacement engine company. > (if they still exist) > > Paul in RI From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 31 20:47:55 2003 From: ellis838@concentric.net To: "alpines@autox.team.net" Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 22:45:37 -0500 Subject: Re: Pressurizing Oil system Unfortunately you cannot pre oil a Alpine that way the oil pump drives off the cam. Alkon wrote: >Hi Bill > >Haven't tried this trick on the Rootesmobile but race engine builders pull >the distributor and poke a suitable drive that looks like the end of the >dist without the gear down the hole. Spin it with electric drill to turn oil >pump and instant pre lube everywhere. Just make sure you turn it all in the >same direction the distributor turns. >If you dont want to pull the distributor then another easy way is to pull >off the connection for the oil pressue gauge and attach about a metre length >of copper tube to the fitting. Point the tube upwards and attach a container >to it that allows you to fill it with engine oil.. The head of 1 metre will >pressurise the whole oil system and oil will slowly reach every part of the >engine filling the oil filter and oil galleries if you leave it for a while >the oil will slowly pass from the container into the sump. After some has >found its way through turn the engine over slowly by hand to encourage >further distribution. When it has all found its way into the sump replace >oil pressure line and start your engine. >This trick does not get oil on the little ends as they are splash fed or >help the rings. A squirt of light oil (sewing machine style ) down each >spark plug hole a few days before starting it all helps here. Be prepared >for a little smoke on start up that should clear as the engine comes up to >temperature. > >I have not worried about this proceedure myself as I always heavilly prelube >new engines. With older engines I use the squirt down the plug holes and >hand crank them with plugs removed to fill the oil ways. Then start it up. >Only previously unused bearings will have no residual oil (new engine so I >prelube them on assembly :-)) so I have had no ill effects from doing things >this way. > >Keith >55 Californian > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Bill & Denise Harben" >To: "Alpine List" >Sent: Saturday, February 01, 2003 5:12 AM >Subject: Pressurizing Oil system > > >>Hi, >> >>I am ready to start my SV for the first time in 16 years. Prior to >>starting, I want to pressurize the oil system so I don't scratch the >>bearings. >> >>Any good ideas on how to do this? >> >>Thanks, >> >>Bill Harben >>Auburn CA From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 31 21:03:51 2003 From: RootesRooter@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 23:02:10 EST Subject: Re: Pressurizing Oil system Why not just take the spark plugs out and use the starter to turn it over til the pressure comes on? The chances of harming the bearings with no firing load on them has to be awfully slim. If that's too fast, use the hand crank. Dick Sanders Kent, WA P.S. I assume you've changed the oil.... In a message dated 1/31/03 11:13:22 AM Pacific Standard Time, harben@JoiMail.com writes: << Hi, I am ready to start my SV for the first time in 16 years. Prior to starting, I want to pressurize the oil system so I don't scratch the bearings. Any good ideas on how to do this? Thanks, >> From alpines-owner@autox.team.net Fri Jan 31 23:39:26 2003 From: "Kevin McLemore" To: RootesRooter@aol.com, alpines@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 01:35:49 -0500 Subject: Re: Pressurizing Oil system Yes, I agree - in addition to using oodles of pre-lube on assembly I've often used the 'cold spin' method prior to first firing. Having said that, Triumph TR (Standard Vanguard) engines do work well with the "Spin the pump thru the distributor hole" trick and I've got a purpose-built tool I made years ago for doing it. However, you can't do it on Austin/Morris or Sunbeam motors, though - their pumps are cam-driven. I will pass on a trick that I learned from an old Jaguar factory mechanic who once worked for me in my shop - he was an older English gent, and was indeed 'factory' trained - he used to work on the E-type line back in the mid-sixties (lucky sod). Anyway, he had a brilliant little home-made adapter that was nothing more than a BPT plug that fit into the oil pressure guage orifice (or any gallery plug hole), and it had a zirc fitting (grease fitting) tapped into the flat end. He simply twisted the plug in, loaded up a large grease gun with motor oil - he kept a separate one expressly for this purpose - and would then proceed to rapidly pump the lot into the motor.... he'd refill the gun as many times as necessary until the oil began weeping from the rocker assembly (or the OH cam bearings), but on many small motors it only took one load. It did the trick pretty nicely on most all motors. This only works, however, in a fresh one with tight clearances and plenty of assembly lube... you could be pumping all day with an old sloppy one! (Ahem.. ahh.. err.. no... wait.. perhaps I should have phrased that last line a bit differently? :o) Kevin McLemore ----Original Message Follows---- From: RootesRooter@aol.com Reply-To: RootesRooter@aol.com To: alpines@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Pressurizing Oil system Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 23:02:10 EST Why not just take the spark plugs out and use the starter to turn it over til the pressure comes on? The chances of harming the bearings with no firing load on them has to be awfully slim. If that's too fast, use the hand crank. Dick Sanders Kent, WA P.S. I assume you've changed the oil.... In a message dated 1/31/03 11:13:22 AM Pacific Standard Time, harben@JoiMail.com writes: << Hi, I am ready to start my SV for the first time in 16 years. Prior to starting, I want to pressurize the oil system so I don't scratch the bearings. Any good ideas on how to do this? Thanks, >> _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963