From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 3 08:13:12 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id A952125849A6 for ; Wed, 3 Sep 2014 08:13:12 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mta11.charter.net (mta11.charter.net [216.33.127.80]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 23B7B25849A6 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Wed, 3 Sep 2014 08:13:06 -0600 (MDT) Received: from imp10 ([10.20.200.15]) by mta11.charter.net (InterMail vM.8.01.05.09 201-2260-151-124-20120717) with ESMTP id <20140903141550.JZJD4658.mta11.charter.net@imp10> for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Wed, 3 Sep 2014 10:15:50 -0400 Received: from mtaout006.msg.strl.va.charter.net ([68.114.190.31]) by imp10 with smtp.charter.net id meFq1o0020h5dSU05eFqR5; Wed, 03 Sep 2014 10:15:50 -0400 Received: from impout005 ([68.114.189.20]) by mtaout006.msg.strl.va.charter.net (InterMail vM.9.00.010.00 201-2473-137) with ESMTP id <20140903141550.OPTR15915.mtaout006.msg.strl.va.charter.net@impout005> for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Wed, 3 Sep 2014 09:15:50 -0500 Received: from UserPC ([68.191.49.60]) by impout005 with charter.net id meFq1o0031HvRt801eFq2S; Wed, 03 Sep 2014 09:15:50 -0500 a=0XvWQ/Ro/I08oZQvByVktA==:117 a=0XvWQ/Ro/I08oZQvByVktA==:17 a=hOpmn2quAAAA:8 a=BZqbWk0OeqIA:10 a=yUnIBFQkZM0A:10 a=DAwyPP_o2Byb1YXLmDAA:9 a=Zr7miEi8wWIA:10 a=cKsnjEOsciEA:10 a=mkuR5niSAAAA:8 a=BRWRAcdpgc4HtfhhEhMA:9 a=CjuIK1q_8ugA:10 a=yMhMjlubAAAA:8 a=SSmOFEACAAAA:8 a=Mgxg3V2yYZX6c9yU6AMA:9 a=XKAR1mCxuH4oQZZ1:21 a=gKO2Hq4RSVkA:10 a=UiCQ7L4-1S4A:10 a=hTZeC7Yk6K0A:10 a=frz4AuCg-hUA:10 From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" To: "'6-Pack'" <6pack@autox.team.net> Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 10:15:45 -0400 Thread-Index: Ac/HgXE+nwh4XoAZR22WJVjb30Pnpw== Content-Language: en-us Subject: [6pack] Gathering of British Cars Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net List - Please share with anyone in Southern New England. Thanks. Alex Thomson Connecticut Triumph Register 34th ANNUAL BRITISH MOTORCAR GATHERING AND PICNIC Hosted by the Connecticut Triumph Register on Sunday, September 7th, 2014 9:30AM - 3PM at Wickham Park, Manchester, CT Venue The Connecticut Triumph Register invites anyone with a British motorcar of any make, model, and condition to join in. This year's gathering is low key- no classes, voting or awards- no pressure! Take your car out for a drive and stop in for a while. Meet and mingle with other Triumph and British vehicle owners. Bring your own picnic or purchase food and beverage provided by BS Troop 28 of Hebron. CTR regalia will be available for purchase. Wickham Park, with 250 acres of gardens, woodlands, ponds, and attractions including an aviary, is a beautiful venue for this autumn event. Signs within the park will direct participants to the field parking area. There is no registration fee for the event. There is a park entrance fee of $5 per car. Directions Wickham Park is located at 1329 West Middle Turnpike in Manchester, CT and is easily accessible from Interstate 84 (exit 60). Information Go to www.CTriumph.com for information, updates, and weather-related announcements day of event. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 4 09:30:18 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 98C652584B16 for ; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 09:30:18 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ie0-f175.google.com (mail-ie0-f175.google.com [209.85.223.175]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8902825807DF for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 09:29:39 -0600 (MDT) Received: by mail-ie0-f175.google.com with SMTP id y20so11518863ier.6 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 04 Sep 2014 08:32:24 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:from:date:message-id:subject:to :cc:content-type; bh=iTPgx1VVMMdbIJaQPY085swUB82pI6wPDW2Oyk1Gujk=; b=EDjT+NR5hrKECBPrRxS1XCdLEk6Sa6cTwQPRF/a6DgQ3qRQDxpzjOUkdweIBO+PEw8 o/waiZ6XkeJsQhnrjKnWtWeqd1rAhbHbj1gJQ+LQLuU3kLXxoF4VMH4yxwnJHE5dTfjK AEKS0Ib6h362uPwwHOhYQpXxsyFv/2A9o4YYVnXsoSmDjMwmXoo02s9TS/ElHS76GXuf kJyc0J0RnjwMyb9RGmhZ4N7DYq4xU1p9ur4ct52txoR9izToY+lkhGfhFJwEwhVfE3Ys fOYaTaxSYViYsAdN0XM9F0hVv4YiI/A1EmDejDd3FykmEgwUVfcXMeW1ks18RYPGzvcz 0Ung== et5mr6855630icb.56.1409844744031; Thu, 04 Sep 2014 08:32:24 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.50.250.167 with HTTP; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 08:32:03 -0700 (PDT) References: From: David Friedlander Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 11:32:03 -0400 To: Irv Korey Cc: 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Seat Belt Interlock Module Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Irv; White with red wire and white with orange wire located cut and connected together. FYI, this did NOT solve the problem, The interlock module is still emitting a sick, whining signal. Now I have two cut wires to deal-with and will have to find and work on alternative solutions.... Dave Friedlander '74 Six On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 9:18 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > > > > On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 6:54 PM, David Friedlander > wrote: > >> Hello gents! >> >> As we all know, the boys in Coventry installed a wondrous electrical >> device >> in our Sixes known as the seat belt interlock module > > > Don't blame TRiumph. Thsi was a Federal safety standard for ALL new cars > sold in the US in 1974. The outcry was such that it was lifted after only 1 > year. > >> >> Appreciate any insights.... >> > > Look at the module. Identify the white with red wire, and the white with > orange wire. Cut them, then connect them to each other. This eliminates the > module from the circuitry of the car. Since I did this, no more issues. > > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 CF22767U > Highland Park, IL _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 4 10:16:17 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B2E392584B86 for ; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 10:16:16 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ie0-f176.google.com (mail-ie0-f176.google.com [209.85.223.176]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 3D8112584620 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 10:16:10 -0600 (MDT) Received: by mail-ie0-f176.google.com with SMTP id x19so11577407ier.7 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 04 Sep 2014 09:18:55 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:from:date:message-id:subject:to :cc:content-type; bh=zsYc/tiDCTLYdJHHV8YgtG5e9E6HASkQoArqAMBJzys=; b=1A1Uc5QYvH15J2kcH3yYw5vCCVALHsANvN2NWxePAyUd9y81NFgRVeczR7KOluMc4v kSPzXRD0FiRBbP4LbgyG4k4uZWj6siQBaMFB03M8s+0/Syd/gmvlHB06TvDJAW4OeH3W HYvrh9tbgBx1w7OAJau0Jkh249O7K99GS8Xqd8qWEXPTHmxpu8ruZ7Xu02xSdQFbu7dT yO808Pimp8WQyG/S+iaW4OPztEwM/++YiBryd0kPaLuuWe43kAOikaKJE0KBtp1Lkypz qh8Y3caUS2LC1++rVp807yYzDX34lw+aml512JcoxpiW/wllciQGUFzW/chIeJx4sf7U nxgQ== l5mr8609875igx.12.1409847534929; Thu, 04 Sep 2014 09:18:54 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.50.250.167 with HTTP; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 09:18:34 -0700 (PDT) References: From: David Friedlander Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 12:18:34 -0400 To: Irv Korey Cc: 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Seat Belt Interlock Module Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Irv; On second thought, were you telling me that connecting the ignition wire (white/red) directly to the starter relay (white/orange) eliminates the need for the module altogether and to then just chuck it? I mean the car starts this way and there is no annoying interlock signal because I've removed it from the car, for now, but isn't this eliminating a warning alarm of some actual battery drain condition? Dave On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 9:18 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > > > > On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 6:54 PM, David Friedlander > wrote: > >> Hello gents! >> >> As we all know, the boys in Coventry installed a wondrous electrical >> device >> in our Sixes known as the seat belt interlock module > > > Don't blame TRiumph. Thsi was a Federal safety standard for ALL new cars > sold in the US in 1974. The outcry was such that it was lifted after only 1 > year. > >> >> Appreciate any insights.... >> > > Look at the module. Identify the white with red wire, and the white with > orange wire. Cut them, then connect them to each other. This eliminates the > module from the circuitry of the car. Since I did this, no more issues. > > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 CF22767U > Highland Park, IL _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 4 12:03:22 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 567EA25845EC for ; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 12:03:22 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mail-pd0-f179.google.com (mail-pd0-f179.google.com [209.85.192.179]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 58E1425845EC for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 12:03:16 -0600 (MDT) Received: by mail-pd0-f179.google.com with SMTP id g10so1870266pdj.38 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 04 Sep 2014 11:06:00 -0700 (PDT) d=1e100.net; s=20130820; h=x-gm-message-state:message-id:date:from:user-agent:mime-version:to :subject:references:in-reply-to:content-type :content-transfer-encoding; bh=6tSyQT8Q+xgcFJCUoZ/l5rv02KJ931FCaguWXudzP0U=; b=hFSTd4v/w8JMab2sBlXZMuwoiZmxNv7r7ZeoYTUX0UHWUxXDWTQcvVl5bnXBzusf3D IvEB8yDv9hMC9Izov6Q+NoxBnY//FaT8NZTIczbav+gzfkQsDFIgUhixUVmqu3/T1xrA oR+qX/HhffJWo6cCV3BnseNsKH4PLfa7qtyrpsRqN4qRQnnVq5xWHqhciOU7BfxLyUkE KJufoUwOTOlr8MEP6xSRZRcGeqDtpWzwbMLhkbz9/fxc/b9aapavsr7GYiTosGPgTZKQ 80+QqVX6Xm4j+RNpA28J+IumDc/d62BZxBwflyH+iXfDN6apKiPAgBQObgY1vqVaqnFu 27Tg== y8mr11165694pdi.7.1409853960615; Thu, 04 Sep 2014 11:06:00 -0700 (PDT) Received: from [172.17.2.49] (gw0.hollywoodcenter.com. [69.54.161.66]) by mx.google.com with ESMTPSA id cm8sm2217810pdb.95.2014.09.04.11.06.00 for <6pack@autox.team.net> (version=TLSv1 cipher=ECDHE-RSA-RC4-SHA bits=128/128); Thu, 04 Sep 2014 11:06:00 -0700 (PDT) Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2014 11:05:59 -0700 From: Richard Schnyder User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:10.0.2) Gecko/20120216 Thunderbird/10.0.2 To: 6pack@autox.team.net References: Subject: Re: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 3 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Triumph TR in a new movie. Check out the movie trailer for "Kill The Messenger" TR6 is most famous... On 9/4/2014 11:00 AM, 6pack-request@autox.team.net wrote: > Send 6pack mailing list submissions to > 6pack@autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > 6pack-request@autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > 6pack-owner@autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Seat Belt Interlock Module (David Friedlander) > 2. Re: Seat Belt Interlock Module (David Friedlander) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 11:32:03 -0400 > From: David Friedlander > To: Irv Korey > Cc: 6-Pack<6pack@autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [6pack] Seat Belt Interlock Module > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Irv; > > White with red wire and white with orange wire located cut and connected > together. FYI, this did NOT solve the problem, The interlock module is > still emitting a sick, whining signal. Now I have two cut wires to > deal-with and will have to find and work on alternative solutions.... > > Dave Friedlander > '74 Six > > > On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 9:18 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > >> >> >> On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 6:54 PM, David Friedlander >> wrote: >> >>> Hello gents! >>> >>> As we all know, the boys in Coventry installed a wondrous electrical >>> device >>> in our Sixes known as the seat belt interlock module >> >> Don't blame TRiumph. Thsi was a Federal safety standard for ALL new cars >> sold in the US in 1974. The outcry was such that it was lifted after only 1 >> year. >> >>> Appreciate any insights.... >>> >> Look at the module. Identify the white with red wire, and the white with >> orange wire. Cut them, then connect them to each other. This eliminates the >> module from the circuitry of the car. Since I did this, no more issues. >> >> Irv Korey >> 74 TR6 CF22767U >> Highland Park, IL > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 12:18:34 -0400 > From: David Friedlander > To: Irv Korey > Cc: 6-Pack<6pack@autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [6pack] Seat Belt Interlock Module > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Irv; > > On second thought, were you telling me that connecting the ignition wire > (white/red) directly to the starter relay (white/orange) eliminates the > need for the module altogether and to then just chuck it? > > I mean the car starts this way and there is no annoying interlock signal > because I've removed it from the car, for now, but isn't this eliminating a > warning alarm of some actual battery drain condition? > > Dave > > > On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 9:18 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > >> >> >> On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 6:54 PM, David Friedlander >> wrote: >> >>> Hello gents! >>> >>> As we all know, the boys in Coventry installed a wondrous electrical >>> device >>> in our Sixes known as the seat belt interlock module >> >> Don't blame TRiumph. Thsi was a Federal safety standard for ALL new cars >> sold in the US in 1974. The outcry was such that it was lifted after only 1 >> year. >> >>> Appreciate any insights.... >>> >> Look at the module. Identify the white with red wire, and the white with >> orange wire. Cut them, then connect them to each other. This eliminates the >> module from the circuitry of the car. Since I did this, no more issues. >> >> Irv Korey >> 74 TR6 CF22767U >> Highland Park, IL > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > 6pack mailing list > 6pack@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > ------------------------------ > > End of 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 3 > *********************************** -- Richard Schnyder Hollywood Center Studios Office: 323-860-0000 Cell: 323-333-2666 RichardS@HollywoodCenter.com www.HollywoodCenter.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 4 12:25:14 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id F297E25852D5 for ; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 12:25:13 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from st11p05mm-asmtp002.mac.com (st11p05mm-asmtp002.mac.com [17.172.108.250]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C17F02584B69 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 12:25:09 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [10.0.1.79] (c-50-155-116-88.hsd1.ga.comcast.net [50.155.116.88]) by st11p05mm-asmtp002.mac.com (Oracle Communications Messaging Server 7u4-27.10(7.0.4.27.9) 64bit (built Jun 6 2014)) with ESMTPSA id <0NBE00C1939W5F40@st11p05mm-asmtp002.mac.com> for 6pack@autox.team.net; Thu, 04 Sep 2014 18:27:38 +0000 (GMT) From: Ashford Little Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2014 14:27:31 -0400 References: <5408AA07.1090708@hollywoodcenter.com> To: Richard Schnyder engine=2.50.10432:5.12.52,1.0.27,0.0.0000 definitions=2014-09-04_03:2014-09-04,2014-09-04,1970-01-01 signatures=0 spamscore=0 suspectscore=0 phishscore=0 adultscore=0 bulkscore=0 classifier=spam adjust=0 reason=mlx scancount=1 engine=7.0.1-1402240000 definitions=main-1409040164 Cc: 6-Pack Email List <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] TR6 in movies Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Cool, and not just one shot either. Ashford Little ralittle2@mac.com On Sep 4, 2014, at 2:05 PM, Richard Schnyder wrote: > Triumph TR in a new movie. > Check out the movie trailer for "Kill The Messenger" > TR6 is most famous... _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 4 14:56:01 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6E3BD25853A9 for ; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 14:56:01 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from nm7.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com (nm7.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com [98.138.90.70]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B4457258068A for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 14:55:52 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [98.138.100.102] by nm7.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 04 Sep 2014 20:58:37 -0000 Received: from [98.138.87.4] by tm101.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 04 Sep 2014 20:58:37 -0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] by omp1004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 04 Sep 2014 20:58:37 -0000 Received: (qmail 22001 invoked by uid 60001); 4 Sep 2014 20:58:37 -0000 s=s1024; t=1409864317; bh=HrOwMQwcqz5oPEB/HidewYKQtIdFXNWXeNtY42sYU9Q=; h=References:Message-ID:Date:From:Reply-To:Subject:To:Cc:In-Reply-To:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=TKvJU5vHxrFsR5nCIaXKmmpAyjs/0gHDGu7GBy3gMETojW5yM0lOaR46mq7EDAeyxv0uIuyWFnhf5MkPWVfK7C6O6/mBFlAe7k4ZxxQu3m9MMJH0Mx8MVGzu7b+WWyDst/hPnivIIZtdMUb2QwPalbefVJvvE6/bncjqA4xrOqM= m9gq9n03N4Bwt82YF4HsgiVxUrEAuZAUnq7qzLXG9mhurmHGwPrU0UX.N1Qd NxCH6y0vdBm.NzTbsjl3gyJQVyXKduIfJM1dAoUyaYrg8PGNxz3lJvddz2QF whROYYvzoaZ02m3elGSMeQOUUlCOyCA41llKUkT6rffxSSI0sI7nEGPXWQKx dRnmqf_9se4EMkb1KwMg1EB5ZSgOgbO4fgnnOtYFaXtUEo576y5D3pBYEVrG Ni1iw3zT53M.fNcNVxGOPUcaP5kOals6hBzlJqr22zmsPd9kTy4ft2SeONlq qE52EhHCQMUQqseONQaB0rXOy2VrQgTmRZx9uDrPYfe0Zy7rqMgFRUXxacB_ 8rX3lNF2qw2Nqe25QF81jW.nDW5bHAmekqefLC_cpGOEkwd2q8vqN312Lr2e JowmpSZrlRiKD64R2p5J8876A6Sw8xW2lKXvYBfXBEMuo7DZVbwpAPpinj13 x9HXwpCFWkdKF31LT2pMKxh9Guo.efkSnpwtEcAzlB5NG92vFy6ihfFkOvsw NfgYarqz2ZKaR6p87UcnSWyC9ojHtHNrqUZNXC.irWg-- Received: from [70.161.81.52] by web125505.mail.ne1.yahoo.com via HTTP; Thu, 04 Sep 2014 13:58:37 PDT RGF2ZSAKCgpUaGF0IGlzIHdoYXQgSXJ2IG1lYW50LCBwdWxsIHRoZSBwbHVnIG91dCBvZiB0aGUgbW9kdWxlIGFuZCBzZWUgd2hhdCBoYXBwZW5zLiBEbyB5b3UgaGVhciB0aGUgYmlyZHMgc2luZyBvciBqdXN0IHNpbGVuY2U_CgpEYWxlCgoKCl9fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fCiBGcm9tOiBEYXZpZCBGcmllZGxhbmRlciA8Zm9yemlvbjdAZ21haWwuY29tPgpUbzogSXJ2IEtvcmV5IDxlbWFudGVub0Bjb21jYXN0Lm5ldD4gCkNjOiA2LVBhY2sgPDZwYWNrQGF1dG94LnRlYW0ubmV0PiABMAEBAQE- References: Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 13:58:37 -0700 From: Dale To: David Friedlander , Irv Korey Cc: 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Seat Belt Interlock Module Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Dave That is what Irv meant, pull the plug out of the module and see what happens. Do you hear the birds sing or just silence? Dale ________________________________ From: David Friedlander To: Irv Korey Cc: 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, September 4, 2014 12:18 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Seat Belt Interlock Module Irv; On second thought, were you telling me that connecting the ignition wire (white/red) directly to the starter relay (white/orange) eliminates the need for the module altogether and to then just chuck it? I mean the car starts this way and there is no annoying interlock signal because I've removed it from the car, for now, but isn't this eliminating a warning alarm of some actual battery drain condition? Dave On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 9:18 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > > > > On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 6:54 PM, David Friedlander > wrote: > >> Hello gents! >> >> As we all know, the boys in Coventry installed a wondrous electrical >> device >> in our Sixes known as the seat belt interlock module > > > Don't blame TRiumph. Thsi was a Federal safety standard for ALL new cars > sold in the US in 1974. The outcry was such that it was lifted after only 1 > year. > >> >> Appreciate any insights.... >> > > Look at the module. Identify the white with red wire, and the white with > orange wire. Cut them, then connect them to each other. This eliminates the > module from the circuitry of the car. Since I did this, no more issues. > > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 CF22767U > Highland Park, IL Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 4 15:43:50 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 21E1725853FB for ; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 15:43:50 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC4S16.hotmail.com (blu004-omc4s16.hotmail.com [65.55.111.155]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 05D5A2584B5F for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 15:43:44 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU180-W45 ([65.55.111.135]) by BLU004-OMC4S16.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Thu, 4 Sep 2014 14:46:29 -0700 From: im sloane To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net> Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 21:46:29 +0000 References: , <5408AA07.1090708@hollywoodcenter.com> FILETIME=[AFA20760:01CFC889] Subject: Re: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 3 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Cool! But I've got a bad feeling it get's blown up before the end. :) > Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 11:05:59 -0700 > From: richards@hollywoodcenter.com > To: 6pack@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 3 > > Triumph TR in a new movie. > Check out the movie trailer for "Kill The Messenger" > TR6 is most famous... _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 4 16:01:58 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C2D8F2585446 for ; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 16:01:58 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ig0-f182.google.com (mail-ig0-f182.google.com [209.85.213.182]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B98102584B5F for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 16:01:52 -0600 (MDT) Received: by mail-ig0-f182.google.com with SMTP id a13so2006901igq.9 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 04 Sep 2014 15:04:37 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:from:date:message-id:subject:to :cc:content-type; bh=NREBSnu5BPf9sNpabnzR++jMsCM2gJuSSAC8uWdBjTU=; b=1DlvdTuWVQdICjUBNZ9webv4FDNtZTXzVa4xJjqFXeiaKO+IyA9fvzopF0zBFjrsor TnN1L9MudYKqZ1clCNaKfAEyyXCZPs57z4pGZVpRB5tLUrndGeN1S2yC9LlfEr1Zo3fO +Ria0v6Kn7KRIF1JNGiTMxkPgQ0VY8DHqx6mOnybhIvs4QkaqES4Wx6D4EvysIkJ+I5b FnUEtkbnt3XAYDBGVy5piHRpYQscLRSAFwQ7Nq3Y2ZKsr64h4lTnwJQ3ANJRpWsXr+ou IrDdb3V/pNArwVJ7Kf5WajO4rBzEO/7XvH4IrzOziSDKb2UTfc5lq4PrzEUoGNSAtRrB YqPA== a13mr9544965icc.37.1409868277524; Thu, 04 Sep 2014 15:04:37 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.50.250.167 with HTTP; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 15:04:16 -0700 (PDT) References: <1409864317.81968.YahooMailNeo@web125505.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: David Friedlander Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 18:04:16 -0400 To: Dale Cc: 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Seat Belt Interlock Module Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Dale; If one unplugs the module, of course the signal stops. But then since the ignition relay and the neutral switch is also a part of the mix, pulling the plug offers *complete* silence: Even when one turns the ignition key! You cannot start the car without it. So, I have now followed what I think Irv said. I have wired the white/red and white/orange wires together thus bypassing the module, wiring the starter switch directly to the ignition relay. I have unplugged/removed the module altogether. That's one less part to worry about: It's a non-serviceable, riveted assembly, NLS by the Big Three anyway. My concern then was what if the module was offering a true alarm: Some sort of circuit issue that could be draining the battery.... sort of like pulling the battery out of your house smoke alarm because it's an annoying signal.... Guess I'll find out! No module, no sound! Ahhhh... Thanks, all.... Cheers! Dave On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 4:58 PM, Dale wrote: > Dave > > That is what Irv meant, pull the plug out of the module and see what > happens. Do you hear the birds sing or just silence? > > Dale > > ------------------------------ > *From:* David Friedlander > *To:* Irv Korey > *Cc:* 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> > *Sent:* Thursday, September 4, 2014 12:18 PM > *Subject:* Re: [6pack] Seat Belt Interlock Module > > Irv; > > On second thought, were you telling me that connecting the ignition wire > (white/red) directly to the starter relay (white/orange) eliminates the > need for the module altogether and to then just chuck it? > > I mean the car starts this way and there is no annoying interlock signal > because I've removed it from the car, for now, but isn't this eliminating a > warning alarm of some actual battery drain condition? > > Dave > > > On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 9:18 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > > > > > > > > > On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 6:54 PM, David Friedlander > > wrote: > > > >> Hello gents! > >> > >> As we all know, the boys in Coventry installed a wondrous electrical > >> device > >> in our Sixes known as the seat belt interlock module > > > > > > Don't blame TRiumph. Thsi was a Federal safety standard for ALL new cars > > sold in the US in 1974. The outcry was such that it was lifted after > only 1 > > year. > > > >> > >> Appreciate any insights.... > >> > > > > Look at the module. Identify the white with red wire, and the white with > > orange wire. Cut them, then connect them to each other. This eliminates > the > > module from the circuitry of the car. Since I did this, no more issues. > > > > Irv Korey > > 74 TR6 CF22767U > > Highland Park, IL > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 4 16:42:19 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 71CDD258544C for ; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 16:42:19 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mail-qa0-f51.google.com (mail-qa0-f51.google.com [209.85.216.51]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 4BAEA258516C for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 16:38:49 -0600 (MDT) Received: by mail-qa0-f51.google.com with SMTP id j7so10325613qaq.10 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 04 Sep 2014 15:41:34 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:sender:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject :from:to:cc:content-type; bh=54/ZygNsCYm1RZiKpRQZckFio7U8m76Y33guDCfHpUw=; b=j5AMQnhE8rMK6QeMxRudHl4ixwVlOBw+Y8DsEuzhoccL7LLdM8LO2XXnR+L8WIkeHZ e4nuuHTFBORyB3sNvJ7bRkrTdINbYXmazzFgihiqo5sN2VQSwWLr0UyBN88K2vBJURSP xvnKB5YuNK0VVtuVYbrtI0QNNfhCRINtpAwP5BQfjNYQaPlkVlrmaJiG6wGzCjhi/U5U 16xCmEsKN/QvixHNA+Ouk3Vt4FbPIUqNajT2k/AvPaeR4FeIH3QCHuhA0sEZP5UtAUPz eQK2ZibF9dQsJ96DcylfpyuKmbofXO6eFGKUFe0upYFXYkAfuiA0zEDtrD3qcIcx/oyZ BxDg== j5mr12500208qcl.14.1409870493764; Thu, 04 Sep 2014 15:41:33 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.140.92.48 with HTTP; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 15:41:33 -0700 (PDT) References: Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 17:41:33 -0500 From: Irv Korey To: David Friedlander Cc: 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Seat Belt Interlock Module Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 11:18 AM, David Friedlander wrote: > Irv; > > On second thought, were you telling me that connecting the ignition wire > (white/red) directly to the starter relay (white/orange) eliminates the > need for the module altogether and to then just chuck it? > > I mean the car starts this way and there is no annoying interlock signal > because I've removed it from the car, for now, but isn't this eliminating a > warning alarm of some actual battery drain condition? > The cutting and splicing of the white with red and white with orange at the module cures the issue of non starting, which is typically what happens at some point with those modules. I've often wondered if the white with red and the white with orange at the starter relay could be wired together at that point, but never had the need and/or courage to try it out. Once I did the splice at the module, my no start issue was resolved, and that is what I was after. I think the other wires in the plug going into the module are for the key in the ignition buzzer and maybe something to do with the door. It's been so many years since those worked in m car that I forget what they do. But, with the module unplugged, that takes care of the noise from the interlock as well as the other advisory buzzers. None of which, IMO, are of any value. There is no alarm in a TR6 that I am aware of that warns of any actual battery drain. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 4 19:13:19 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id A934025844B3 for ; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 19:13:19 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ie0-f171.google.com (mail-ie0-f171.google.com [209.85.223.171]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B70E02580BC6 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 19:12:24 -0600 (MDT) Received: by mail-ie0-f171.google.com with SMTP id rp18so12909269iec.30 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 04 Sep 2014 18:15:09 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:from:date:message-id:subject:to :cc:content-type; bh=Qp0sqwQ4nVxLX6a7ne4p+7W8d2UCqKHveiNfI6gCP7o=; b=h6/7nh75AqGglsK1jgsDuu6fGyVDdgNrDMwjR7UuWh9oJdxHRaoQAZc8nCXRw+clhF r6m28Bly0MKILlfxzwi1VKVmKSdY2Cx3GmFrrLXEkO8O30Bz1K5De/OgA4XsezhdLpJC v3BqpTrfzYjiW+T7Ugbvjv+SE8dnbpmO8UH7/JpwWFHo7Q4U6iKMoKb3tU1uRCAaafaL FaSou7NX64c/Q+NDdxancvkTEIG/KyZ3F+Lh9/i7ItK2AknOov2RM6GY9XHOM00fvGf4 rD3ibuNFjbe/UXYuPO+wU2t0ixmSgVSiPVOsu+5yVg9ykMNmDTsHIf8y6vRVt2ZSXMOj pAHQ== k15mr10773410icp.42.1409879709624; Thu, 04 Sep 2014 18:15:09 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.50.250.167 with HTTP; Thu, 4 Sep 2014 18:14:49 -0700 (PDT) References: From: David Friedlander Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 21:14:49 -0400 To: Irv Korey Cc: 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Seat Belt Interlock Module Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thanks again, Irv. All's quiet now! Starting the car wasn't the issue for me. It was that darn whining squeak of a signal, for no reason I could discern. The neutral safety switch is also wire into the module plug, supposedly preventing you from being able to start the car in any gear but neutral.... Nice to know I'll never have to hear that signal again.... Dave On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 6:41 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > > > > On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 11:18 AM, David Friedlander > wrote: > >> Irv; >> >> On second thought, were you telling me that connecting the ignition wire >> (white/red) directly to the starter relay (white/orange) eliminates the >> need for the module altogether and to then just chuck it? >> >> I mean the car starts this way and there is no annoying interlock signal >> because I've removed it from the car, for now, but isn't this eliminating >> a >> warning alarm of some actual battery drain condition? >> > > The cutting and splicing of the white with red and white with orange at > the module cures the issue of non starting, which is typically what happens > at some point with those modules. I've often wondered if the white with red > and the white with orange at the starter relay could be wired together at > that point, but never had the need and/or courage to try it out. Once I did > the splice at the module, my no start issue was resolved, and that is what > I was after. > > I think the other wires in the plug going into the module are for the key > in the ignition buzzer and maybe something to do with the door. It's been > so many years since those worked in m car that I forget what they do. But, > with the module unplugged, that takes care of the noise from the interlock > as well as the other advisory buzzers. None of which, IMO, are of any > value. There is no alarm in a TR6 that I am aware of that warns of any > actual battery drain. > > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 CF22767U > Highland Park, IL _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 7 08:51:49 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 1112B25845CB for ; Sun, 7 Sep 2014 08:51:49 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from p3plsmtpa06-08.prod.phx3.secureserver.net (p3plsmtpa06-08.prod.phx3.secureserver.net [173.201.192.109]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 73C5825844ED for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Sun, 7 Sep 2014 08:39:30 -0600 (MDT) Received: from 370Z ([76.184.172.222]) by p3plsmtpa06-08.prod.phx3.secureserver.net with id oEiF1o0094oFfFQ01EiFTg; Sun, 07 Sep 2014 07:42:16 -0700 From: "dave n" To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net> Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 09:42:19 -0500 Subject: [6pack] shift lever install Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net are there instructions somewhere on how to install the shift lever (72 TR6)? it was removed by the transmission rebuilder (Quantum mechanics) thanks _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 7 09:08:02 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 3BE682584693 for ; Sun, 7 Sep 2014 09:08:02 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from p3plsmtpa06-06.prod.phx3.secureserver.net (p3plsmtpa06-06.prod.phx3.secureserver.net [173.201.192.107]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 73CCB2580697 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Sun, 7 Sep 2014 09:07:56 -0600 (MDT) Received: from 370Z ([76.184.172.222]) by p3plsmtpa06-06.prod.phx3.secureserver.net with id oFAe1o00A4oFfFQ01FAfTj; Sun, 07 Sep 2014 08:10:42 -0700 From: "dave n" To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net> Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 10:05:44 -0500 Subject: [6pack] gear lever install TR6 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net I have found this page: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Gearbox/GearboxCover/GearboxCover.ht m thank you Buckeye Triumphs!!! _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 7 09:51:16 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id AC185258469D for ; Sun, 7 Sep 2014 09:51:16 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from nm43.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com (nm43.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com [98.138.120.50]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id D49FF2580697 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Sun, 7 Sep 2014 09:42:26 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [127.0.0.1] by nm43.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 07 Sep 2014 15:45:13 -0000 Received: from [98.138.100.113] by nm43.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 07 Sep 2014 15:42:33 -0000 Received: from [98.138.89.192] by tm104.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 07 Sep 2014 15:42:33 -0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] by omp1050.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 07 Sep 2014 15:42:33 -0000 Received: (qmail 54377 invoked by uid 60001); 7 Sep 2014 15:42:33 -0000 s=s1024; t=1410104553; bh=gzLIy171QDlVtLBmxQfavZQJdCc/70jYRLJsWJbNHZA=; h=References:Message-ID:Date:From:Reply-To:Subject:To:In-Reply-To:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=f0QD5NvkNbCVFwVpOQulp/5HhqxgRimd1yKMWuI+obZ6dJOypkiRBcHp8/tKJ8xlsA0wbx4F048MUdwPnEHOmxZCg/bQrfSMMHXqKBGQhLMAnsPigG1ZEKc13UQ7EfZQxLFVAd1jjTS3Ddb3sSoU/NloBFO1QF88hyPuARFenl4= .eOeGjNJCKXIxa51HlmO6Nk1sqhZ.M4qbaiQR0brIyhfnzIQ82Req_8G8IHa ybRF6.4VwRaOFDNISZviGwavSTgSP4kQsg9spCcTUySWnWaLPPAKn7At5nqY e6mMe.X9PH_0S.fZUIOQf9Kamki.KOWQrJN8wUuytnbQyjrffJZhqh_fa0yq D946XUIPMwHEaT5.tmN_q7zN9CB7prerphcywy4uUGJMRWm9Z.WRIjXQw0NA heAYSoELhFRsKnSO1UjJ.8eVToWInsg59U81AtJaMpoSNmWmpf6JOBCSbb.3 T.gaX8DcT0DSW3.xK0S.agKh.xwx365JsrAj.34L5bZZ1ABbvrdjYMWN6M3R LI0p2fo1FX5BiDF415J.mtQTiyL2eTXPiRW2_MUp7EiryekGOZnUfp6oj3hO dULEzAevqxr7W8lAVV1.Hgz1S6qWnmzTiAN1Ikz_KgbhqhObXrMpKlTehrvJ QHYdQlo.d6q_ou2cth_hH.XJoKQXfgkUsUfQYwgtvKol11_r.e.kwvus0U6A glBNdd4Gm Received: from [96.244.40.226] by web122105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com via HTTP; Sun, 07 Sep 2014 08:42:33 PDT CgpIZWxsbyBhbGwsCiAKVGhlIHNwb2tlcyBvbiBteSA3NCBUUjYgc3RlZXJpbmcgd2hlZWwgaXMgc3RhcnRpbmcgdG8gcGVlbCBhbmQgbG9vayByYXR0eS4gSGFzIGFueW9uZSBoYWQgb25lIFBvd2RlcmNvYXRlZD8gSSBhbSBub3Qgc3VyZSBpZiB0aGUgaGVhdCBuZWVkIHRvIGN1cmUgd291bGQgYmUgdG8gbXVjaCBmb3IgdGhlIHJpbS4gSWYgeW91IGRpZCBwYWludCB3aGF0IGNvbG9yIHdhcyB0aGUgYmVzdCBtYXRjaD8KClRoYW5rIGluIGFkdmFuY2UgZm9yIGFueSBpbnB1dC4KClJvYmVydAoKUm9iZXJ0IFIBMAEBAQE- References: <26B2DDB479AD4D10A31BCEDB5F93EC69@Ranteer.local> Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 08:42:33 -0700 From: robert rudolphi To: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Painting/Powdercoating TR6 Steering wheel Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Hello all, The spokes on my 74 TR6 steering wheel is starting to peel and look ratty. Has anyone had one Powdercoated? I am not sure if the heat need to cure would be to much for the rim. If you did paint what color was the best match? Thank in advance for any input. Robert Robert Rudolphi 74 TR6 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 7 21:57:32 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 4B2FD25848D4 for ; Sun, 7 Sep 2014 21:57:32 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from nm38-vm7.bullet.mail.bf1.yahoo.com (nm38-vm7.bullet.mail.bf1.yahoo.com [72.30.239.23]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 834F22584861 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Sun, 7 Sep 2014 21:50:07 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [66.196.81.171] by nm38.bullet.mail.bf1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 08 Sep 2014 03:52:54 -0000 Received: from [98.139.212.230] by tm17.bullet.mail.bf1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 08 Sep 2014 03:52:54 -0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] by omp1039.mail.bf1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 08 Sep 2014 03:52:54 -0000 Received: (qmail 18381 invoked by uid 60001); 8 Sep 2014 03:52:54 -0000 s=s1024; t=1410148374; bh=o0KUIkuOBtWbqGcUMutMCww4NWO9mtxtHogKJMSok3s=; h=Message-ID:Date:From:Reply-To:Subject:To:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=E9qN2P1owOzVbkHVhC2H2vOAI6OcPaMtZtjx2VZ4q+TnOqQCsea6RxVePZ4Q3r+qSNvNdwf/S83A0F/Ocvql6ViOC9vXW3f+jUfO/cuMDaBsj9m4ogpAfEwm/l5RtpPmAw8ha2i6djVhxSpkN0rl6dXBC6cD4FRXzDxvhisq/FI= dAf89u3alr1nTW5tFhoHI6Q.MErNRS4mGXJWHSYa6M5vUc1x_awJo1YStC6o .PEYUmiE_pX4fB.JTE1OLTZlE76SeDfI4eM2wwK295q5FWs8R8jinwISE43Y m09Dxockg1hb81IFrv_hl3VaJwKGEkmRPn_bZuG.koD7bQYzRaz8qpaEMGOo Cey044bSkjPHocWAuwYT8nG5CToWMrkLhdt5Vvbg2TDTIZoB0_qM6JEJWq.j 5.JTB6ZFhO0IZpr_IlxxzSJq76SBH7IpZGtgBhVxzQm76yXaJprEziqIdjcG VLCadSVb6PRfQqpjFy6WiT7NAlslvH7EW9FgAQjgy8O8nlHWWHemfDHUTnbF 1wJgQKjHQvhf2jotwuR6o8kYPJbZ07jQJXCzwmM816po_O5BPjr__61F2uEi IwZgN_Hq.i9tTX4RkQ1jrDNy7iW56Y1_A73VE9fPDjUaImeOTryWyaguc2yi SFMGOBFIoBlQ7Sxf9EpItU9jG3UaJ1wGPGKeCCoJ3s7hr6MZ.l86La3Dp6A- - Received: from [71.17.44.75] by web162302.mail.bf1.yahoo.com via HTTP; Sun, 07 Sep 2014 20:52:54 PDT SSdtIGd1ZXNzaW5nIGZldyBzaG9wcyB3b3VsZCB0YWtlIG9uIHJlLWJ1aWRpbmcgc2VhdCBiZWx0cyBkdWUgdG8gbGlhYmlsaXR5IHBvdGVudGlhbC4KCk15IGJsYWNrIFNlY3Vyb24gc2VhdCBiZWx0cyBsb29rIGdvb2QgaW4gdGhlIDYgYW5kIGZ1bmN0aW9uIHdlbGwuICAgSSBsaWtlIHRoZSBpZGVhIG9mIG5ldyBiZWx0cyBhbmQgbWVjaGFuaXNtcyBpZiBJIGV2ZXIgcmVhbGx5IG5lZWQgdGhlbSAgIE9ubHkgdGhpbmcgSSBoYXZlbid0IGdvdCBpZCB0aGUgcGFya2VyIG1lY2hhbmlzbSBzbyB0aGV5IGp1c3QBMAEBAQE- Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 20:52:54 -0700 From: Yahoo To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Seat Belts Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net I'm guessing few shops would take on re-buiding seat belts due to liability potential. My black Securon seat belts look good in the 6 and function well. I like the idea of new belts and mechanisms if I ever really need them Only thing I haven't got id the parker mechanism so they just dangle when not in use Bruce Simms _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 8 09:34:25 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 7BEBF258457C for ; Mon, 8 Sep 2014 09:34:25 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from st11p05mm-asmtp002.mac.com (st11p05mm-asmtp002.mac.com [17.172.108.250]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 9C2ED2580934 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Mon, 8 Sep 2014 09:29:27 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [10.0.1.79] (c-50-155-116-88.hsd1.ga.comcast.net [50.155.116.88]) by st11p05mm-asmtp002.mac.com (Oracle Communications Messaging Server 7u4-27.10(7.0.4.27.9) 64bit (built Jun 6 2014)) with ESMTPSA id <0NBL00ATW9T60N10@st11p05mm-asmtp002.mac.com> for 6pack@autox.team.net; Mon, 08 Sep 2014 15:31:55 +0000 (GMT) From: Ashford Little Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2014 11:31:53 -0400 To: 6-Pack Email List <6pack@autox.team.net> engine=2.50.10432:5.12.52,1.0.27,0.0.0000 definitions=2014-09-08_03:2014-09-08,2014-09-08,1970-01-01 signatures=0 spamscore=0 suspectscore=11 phishscore=0 adultscore=0 bulkscore=2 classifier=spam adjust=0 reason=mlx scancount=1 engine=7.0.1-1402240000 definitions=main-1409080138 Subject: [6pack] 2014 6-Pack TRials Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Today is the last day that you can guarantee you will have a room at the 2014 6-Pack TRials in Oxford, MS. If you are planning on going then youd better call the Inn at Ole Miss this morning. Their contact number is: 2014 TRials Saturday, 05 October 2013 07:50 Alan Atkinson TODAY IS THE LAST DAY TO GUARANTEE YOU'LL HAVE A ROOM. BOOK NOW OR FOREVER HOLD YOUR PEACE! THE INN AT OLE MISS IS FILLING UP. BOOK YOUR ROOMS NOW 1-800-486-7666 and reference the 6-Pack Vintage Car Club Group. Ashford Little ralittle2@mac.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 8 15:37:24 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 88EA52584947 for ; Mon, 8 Sep 2014 15:37:24 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from qmta05.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net (qmta05.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net [76.96.62.48]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 06B6D25807BC for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Mon, 8 Sep 2014 15:27:30 -0600 (MDT) Received: from omta01.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net ([76.96.62.11]) by qmta05.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net with comcast id olEf1o0040EZKEL55lWJ8Y; Mon, 08 Sep 2014 21:30:18 +0000 Received: from HOMEPC ([76.110.88.165]) by omta01.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net with comcast id olWH1o00E3a2la43MlWJU9; Mon, 08 Sep 2014 21:30:18 +0000 From: "Walt" To: <6pack@autox.team.net> Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2014 17:30:16 -0400 Thread-Index: Ac/Lq4ucfymOkliBQwCBsN2J6kH5FA== Content-Language: en-us s=q20140121; t=1410211818; bh=MC+K0za8y6+IEVmYoLWbRQn16cvXMWVpl1Uwr3MLHuM=; h=Received:Received:From:To:Subject:Date:Message-ID:MIME-Version: Content-Type; b=eNL4ApG7uOjsDtChf8+DPNvIz5YnFwXacoavmgMQwQjGqwUcdK/l9JwkqNoVPyDTw jbGZ+f1uXojdJJnlTZEGbwLvJBRItilc/lRDBew2JflWvcQUEeAPwkWKF3yKEGQr6F VewpdetwXXIHfPgY9qD3BYeBjwiHwY5hSTxOP+KR9i8aaZr1L3GDkio3VD3inXHROs udkISP9ZPY7LTp9EXQy22k5JSMz4YSM5oiJDKXFxv5qCON442/HgZYkfGT5iDkCUZ5 rgD/herNTrdFpwsC6rtnZ9xFrKlaAlzeKRZx97lwCLO9SkIAqoLw8u+C2ZORIKawWT CruPnj7le+LVQ== Subject: Re: [6pack] Seat Belts (Yahoo) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net These were in my archives. Have no personal experience with them. Re: Seat Belts (Yahoo) http://www.peparts.com/StoreFront.bok http://www.ssnake-oyl.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Ssnake-Oyl &Category_Code=RS Walt Philipson 1974 TR6 2004 Mini Cooper S 2001 XJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 8 18:55:44 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 79FAB2584A51 for ; Mon, 8 Sep 2014 18:55:44 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net [167.206.4.196]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8C7E7258454B for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Mon, 8 Sep 2014 18:55:38 -0600 (MDT) Received: from vwm15.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (vwm15.srv.hcvlny.cv.net [167.206.10.45]) by mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (Sun Java System Messaging Server 6.2-8.04 (built Feb 28 2007)) with ESMTPA id <0NBM009G901DKC70@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> for 6pack@autox.team.net; Mon, 08 Sep 2014 20:58:25 -0400 (EDT) Received: from [74.89.46.248] by webtop.webmail.optimum.net with HTTP; Mon, 08 Sep 2014 20:58:25 -0400 Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2014 20:58:25 -0400 (EDT) From: salvatore vespertino To: "6pack@autox.team.net 6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net> User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3 Subject: [6pack] Fuel sender help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net I have question not necessarily related to Triumphs. The fuel sender on one of my cars has exposed electrical connectors that potentially or definitely would be submerged in gasoline ( at least on a full tank ). I didn't think that would be the right way to design it , what am I missing? Thanks Sal. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 8 19:26:18 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C64E82584A82 for ; Mon, 8 Sep 2014 19:26:18 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mailbox.cws.net (mailboxaws.cws.net [54.86.143.27]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6731F258043F for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Mon, 8 Sep 2014 19:26:13 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BrianNotebook (71-36-216-55.roch.qwest.net [71.36.216.55]) (Authenticated sender: brian@asmoothmove.biz) by mailbox.cws.net (Postfix) with ESMTPSA id 41A1052D0; Tue, 9 Sep 2014 01:26:41 +0000 (UTC) From: "Brian J. Alwin" To: "'salvatore vespertino'" , <6pack@autox.team.net> References: <3091ad00.1085f4.14857eb356c.Webtop.45@optonline.net> Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2014 20:29:34 -0500 Thread-Index: AQG7e3oWKwNunCkrKD5wO/vp36Y+fpwgo1vw Content-Language: en-us Subject: Re: [6pack] Fuel sender help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net This is a very common question. Even if sparks fly there is insufficient oxygen inside a fuel tank to ignite the fuel. This is true whether the tank is empty or full - especially if the tank is full Brian J. Alwin 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of salvatore vespertino Sent: Monday, September 8, 2014 7:58 PM To: 6pack@autox.team.net 6pack@autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Fuel sender help I have question not necessarily related to Triumphs. The fuel sender on one of my cars has exposed electrical connectors that potentially or definitely would be submerged in gasoline ( at least on a full tank ). I didn't think that would be the right way to design it , what am I missing? Thanks Sal. $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/brian@asmoothmove.biz _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 8 22:12:13 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id D31E22585131 for ; Mon, 8 Sep 2014 22:12:13 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC4S9.hotmail.com (blu004-omc4s9.hotmail.com [65.55.111.148]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id A154D258078C for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Mon, 8 Sep 2014 22:12:06 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU406-EAS386 ([65.55.111.135]) by BLU004-OMC4S9.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Mon, 8 Sep 2014 21:14:54 -0700 From: James_ Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2014 21:14:12 -0700 To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> FILETIME=[9BCEB130:01CFCBE4] Subject: [6pack] Tune up help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Ok. I've never mastered the tune up on my 76 tr6. Timing and carbs always seem off. Anyone in the Portland, OR area an expert and willing to teach me? Or maybe someone has an A to Z instruction. So far I put in new spark plugs, new distributor parts, set the points, adjusted the valves. Now I am at the timing and then on to the carbs. I am at 8 degrees not 4 as manual states. (I was higher) but engine goes up and back down when I plug in the vacuum. Surges? Ugh! Makes me want a classic American car. (Shhh...) I. The past whenever I use the synchro carb bubble tool thingy...never seem to balance the carbs and get good running. Is that tool any use? Heck, when I do get things balanced somewhat; it never seems to run great for long. Constant headache. Is it just me or others share the same headache? Thanks for any help. James bSent from my Atari 2600b _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 9 11:21:23 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 71E082584B76 for ; Tue, 9 Sep 2014 11:21:23 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC4S35.hotmail.com (blu004-omc4s35.hotmail.com [65.55.111.174]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id DD90F25845D4 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Tue, 9 Sep 2014 11:20:45 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU406-EAS142 ([65.55.111.137]) by BLU004-OMC4S35.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Tue, 9 Sep 2014 10:23:33 -0700 References: <1410243559.27512.YahooMailNeo@web160304.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: James_ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2014 10:23:28 -0700 To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> FILETIME=[C8706F30:01CFCC52] Subject: Re: [6pack] Tune up help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thanks. So I set the timing last night and retarded it down to around 8 it was higher (12?). I think it is BTDC, but I forget which is which. Hah. That's a problem, huh? I was trying out the timing last night and it was probably set fine. So do I disconnect and plug the vacuum tube or not? I guess I'll try to plug it and set to 12 BTDC. I think it may have been close to that and then with vacuum connected again would retard to around 4 degrees. Hmm. Carbs were rebuilt (by me) and fresh Diaphragms. Anyone use a device to measure points, dwell, etc? I bought one but that may be specific to American cars. I guess I could have the dizzy rebuilt. I dread placing it back in. I recall that being a pain in the past. What is the opinion of the petronix (?) thingy? I am guessing that replaces the points? Thanks so much! bSent from my Atari 2600b > On Sep 8, 2014, at 11:19 PM, "Sally or Dick Taylor" wrote: > > When you write that you set your timing at "8 degrees" I can't tell if you mean before or after TDC. I believe the manual suggests that the ignition timing be set at 4 deg. ATDC, when the vacuum retard line is connected. If you set yours at 8 deg. ATDC, then your timing is retarded too far. It should run that way of course, but the timing will be retarded even when the retard feature "goes away" like when you open the throttle. I suggest doing what many do here, and that is to plug the vacuum line that goes to the distributor, then set the timing at 12 deg. BTDC, as in Before top dead center. You'll want the engine idle speed to be as close to 800rpm as you can get it using the carb idle screws, as any engine speed more than this will start bringing in the mechanical advance that can change the result. Reconnect the vacuum retard line, if you wish. The result of reconnecting the vacuum retard will slow the engine idle speed down some. If it is then idling too slow, speed it up by using the carb idle screws. > > Watch the timing marks on your front pulley to be sure they go higher as the engine revs go up. If the highest mark is 24 on your pulley, speeding up your engine past 2500 rpms should take it beyond this mark. > > There is nothing inherently wrong with the 1976 TR6. More original emission controls, but it's still possible for your engine to run well. > > Dick > > > On Monday, September 8, 2014 9:15 PM, James_ wrote: > > > Ok. I've never mastered the tune up on my 76 tr6. Timing and carbs always seem off. > Anyone in the Portland, OR area an expert and willing to teach me? > Or maybe someone has an A to Z instruction. > So far I put in new spark plugs, new distributor parts, set the points, adjusted the valves. Now I am at the timing and then on to the carbs. > I am at 8 degrees not 4 as manual states. (I was higher) but engine goes up and back down when I plug in the vacuum. Surges? > > Ugh! Makes me want a classic American car. (Shhh...) > > I. The past whenever I use the synchro carb bubble tool thingy...never seem to balance the carbs and get good running. Is that tool any use? > Heck, when I do get things balanced somewhat; it never seems to run great for long. Constant headache. > Is it just me or others share the same headache? > > Thanks for any help. > > James _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 9 12:33:38 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E67892584BA5 for ; Tue, 9 Sep 2014 12:33:37 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mta7.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (mta7.srv.hcvlny.cv.net [167.206.4.202]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id F29D225845E5 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Tue, 9 Sep 2014 12:33:00 -0600 (MDT) Received: from vwm13.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (vwm13.srv.hcvlny.cv.net [167.206.10.43]) by mta7.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (Sun Java System Messaging Server 6.2-8.04 (built Feb 28 2007)) with ESMTPA id <0NBN00L35CZOI801@mta7.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> for 6pack@autox.team.net; Tue, 09 Sep 2014 14:35:48 -0400 (EDT) Received: from [69.126.235.217] by webtop.webmail.optimum.net with HTTP; Tue, 09 Sep 2014 14:35:48 -0400 Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2014 14:35:48 -0400 (EDT) From: Bob Peglow To: James_ References: <1410243559.27512.YahooMailNeo@web160304.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3 Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Tune up help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Hi James, When you connect dwell meter make sure it is set for 6 cylinders. Try looking at engine RPM on the meter. If it closely matches your car tachometer RPM the meter is probably working correctly. Switch the meter to the dwell setting and you should see reading of 35 or so. Dwell affects timing. If the dwell is 35 +or- 3 degrees you are in the ball park. Others may jump in with setting opinions. Good luck. Regards, Bob On Tue, Sep 09, 2014 at 01:23 PM, James_ wrote: > Thanks. > So I set the timing last night and retarded it down to around 8 it was > higher (12?). I think it is BTDC, but I forget which is which. Hah. > That's a problem, huh? I was trying out the timing last night and it > was probably set fine. So do I disconnect and plug the vacuum tube or > not? I guess I'll try to plug it and set to 12 BTDC. I think it may > have been close to that and then with vacuum connected again would > retard to around 4 degrees. Hmm. > Carbs were rebuilt (by me) and fresh Diaphragms. > Anyone use a device to measure points, dwell, etc? I bought one but > that may be specific to American cars. I guess I could have the dizzy > rebuilt. I dread placing it back in. I recall that being a pain in the > past. What is the opinion of the petronix (?) thingy? I am guessing > that replaces the points? Thanks so much! > > bSent from my Atari 2600b > >> On Sep 8, 2014, at 11:19 PM, "Sally or Dick Taylor" wrote: >> >> When you write that you set your timing at "8 degrees" I can't tell >> if you mean before or after TDC. I believe the manual suggests that >> the ignition timing be set at 4 deg. ATDC, when the vacuum retard >> line is connected. If you set yours at 8 deg. ATDC, then your timing >> is retarded too far. It should run that way of course, but the timing >> will be retarded even when the retard feature "goes away" like when >> you open the throttle. I suggest doing what many do here, and that is >> to plug the vacuum line that goes to the distributor, then set the >> timing at 12 deg. BTDC, as in Before top dead center. You'll want the >> engine idle speed to be as close to 800rpm as you can get it using >> the carb idle screws, as any engine speed more than this will start >> bringing in the mechanical advance that can change the result. >> Reconnect the vacuum retard line, if you wish. The result of >> reconnecting the vacuum retard will slow the engine idle speed down >> some. If it is then idling too slow, speed it up by u > sing the carb idle screws. >> >> Watch the timing marks on your front pulley to be sure they go higher >> as the engine revs go up. If the highest mark is 24 on your pulley, >> speeding up your engine past 2500 rpms should take it beyond this >> mark. >> There is nothing inherently wrong with the 1976 TR6. More original >> emission controls, but it's still possible for your engine to run >> well. >> Dick >> >> On Monday, September 8, 2014 9:15 PM, James_ wrote: >> >> >> Ok. I've never mastered the tune up on my 76 tr6. Timing and carbs >> always seem off. Anyone in the Portland, OR area an expert and >> willing to teach me? >> Or maybe someone has an A to Z instruction. So far I put in new spark >> plugs, new distributor parts, set the points, adjusted the valves. >> Now I am at the timing and then on to the carbs. I am at 8 degrees >> not 4 as manual states. (I was higher) but engine goes up and back >> down when I plug in the vacuum. Surges? >> Ugh! Makes me want a classic American car. (Shhh...) >> I. The past whenever I use the synchro carb bubble tool >> thingy...never seem to balance the carbs and get good running. Is >> that tool any use? Heck, when I do get things balanced somewhat; it >> never seems to run great for long. Constant headache. Is it just me >> or others share the same headache? >> >> Thanks for any help. >> James > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow@optonline.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 9 19:25:49 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0B94325851E7 for ; Tue, 9 Sep 2014 19:25:49 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC4S14.hotmail.com (blu004-omc4s14.hotmail.com [65.55.111.153]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E3DD425808C1 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Tue, 9 Sep 2014 19:25:42 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU406-EAS7 ([65.55.111.137]) by BLU004-OMC4S14.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Tue, 9 Sep 2014 18:28:31 -0700 References: <1410243559.27512.YahooMailNeo@web160304.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <66ecddae.e9dd2.1485bb34582.Webtop.43@optonline.net> From: James_ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2014 18:28:29 -0700 To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> FILETIME=[87B46160:01CFCC96] Subject: Re: [6pack] Tune up help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Ok. So I sent the timing at 12 BTDC with emission vacuum hose disconnected and taped to cover hole. Dwell is actually dead on 40. Rechecked points. They are .015inch There is barely any wobble to the dizzy. Tiny bit. Timing is at around 4 BTDC but it isn't super steady. Bounces a bit. The RPMs are at 1200-1400. Maybe now I need to go to the carbs and idle screws. bSent from my Atari 2600b > On Sep 9, 2014, at 11:35 AM, "Bob Peglow" wrote: > > Hi James, > When you connect dwell meter make sure it is set for 6 cylinders. > Try looking at engine RPM on the meter. If it closely matches your car tachometer RPM the meter is probably working correctly. > Switch the meter to the dwell setting and you should see reading of 35 or so. > Dwell affects timing. If the dwell is 35 +or- 3 degrees you are in the ball park. > Others may jump in with setting opinions. > Good luck. > Regards, > Bob > > >> On Tue, Sep 09, 2014 at 01:23 PM, James_ wrote: >> >> Thanks. >> So I set the timing last night and retarded it down to around 8 it was higher (12?). I think it is BTDC, but I forget which is which. Hah. That's a problem, huh? I was trying out the timing last night and it was probably set fine. So do I disconnect and plug the vacuum tube or not? I guess I'll try to plug it and set to 12 BTDC. I think it may have been close to that and then with vacuum connected again would retard to around 4 degrees. Hmm. >> Carbs were rebuilt (by me) and fresh Diaphragms. >> Anyone use a device to measure points, dwell, etc? I bought one but that may be specific to American cars. I guess I could have the dizzy rebuilt. I dread placing it back in. I recall that being a pain in the past. What is the opinion of the petronix (?) thingy? I am guessing that replaces the points? Thanks so much! >> >> bSent from my Atari 2600b >> >>> On Sep 8, 2014, at 11:19 PM, "Sally or Dick Taylor" wrote: >>> >>> When you write that you set your timing at "8 degrees" I can't tell if you mean before or after TDC. I believe the manual suggests that the ignition timing be set at 4 deg. ATDC, when the vacuum retard line is connected. If you set yours at 8 deg. ATDC, then your timing is retarded too far. It should run that way of course, but the timing will be retarded even when the retard feature "goes away" like when you open the throttle. I suggest doing what many do here, and that is to plug the vacuum line that goes to the distributor, then set the timing at 12 deg. BTDC, as in Before top dead center. You'll want the engine idle speed to be as close to 800rpm as you can get it using the carb idle screws, as any engine speed more than this will start bringing in the mechanical advance that can change the result. Reconnect the vacuum retard line, if you wish. The result of reconnecting the vacuum retard will slow the engine idle speed down some. If it is then idling too slow, speed it up by u >> sing the carb idle screws. >>> >>> Watch the timing marks on your front pulley to be sure they go higher as the engine revs go up. If the highest mark is 24 on your pulley, speeding up your engine past 2500 rpms should take it beyond this mark. >>> There is nothing inherently wrong with the 1976 TR6. More original emission controls, but it's still possible for your engine to run well. >>> Dick >>> >>> On Monday, September 8, 2014 9:15 PM, James_ wrote: >>> >>> >>> Ok. I've never mastered the tune up on my 76 tr6. Timing and carbs always seem off. Anyone in the Portland, OR area an expert and willing to teach me? >>> Or maybe someone has an A to Z instruction. So far I put in new spark plugs, new distributor parts, set the points, adjusted the valves. Now I am at the timing and then on to the carbs. I am at 8 degrees not 4 as manual states. (I was higher) but engine goes up and back down when I plug in the vacuum. Surges? >>> Ugh! Makes me want a classic American car. (Shhh...) >>> I. The past whenever I use the synchro carb bubble tool thingy...never seem to balance the carbs and get good running. Is that tool any use? Heck, when I do get things balanced somewhat; it never seems to run great for long. Constant headache. Is it just me or others share the same headache? >>> >>> Thanks for any help. >>> James >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> 6pack@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow@optonline.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 10 07:46:12 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0468B25845F9 for ; Wed, 10 Sep 2014 07:46:12 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net [167.206.4.197]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 36293258076D for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Wed, 10 Sep 2014 07:45:36 -0600 (MDT) Received: from vwm13.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (vwm13.srv.hcvlny.cv.net [167.206.10.43]) by mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (Sun Java System Messaging Server 6.2-8.04 (built Feb 28 2007)) with ESMTPA id <0NBO000RAUCNIAA0@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> for 6pack@autox.team.net; Wed, 10 Sep 2014 09:48:24 -0400 (EDT) Received: from [69.126.235.217] by webtop.webmail.optimum.net with HTTP; Wed, 10 Sep 2014 09:48:23 -0400 Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2014 09:48:23 -0400 (EDT) From: Bob Peglow To: James_ References: <1410243559.27512.YahooMailNeo@web160304.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <66ecddae.e9dd2.1485bb34582.Webtop.43@optonline.net> User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3 Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Tune up help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Seems timing and advance are in the ballpark. What are the running/performance symptoms now? Bob On Tue, Sep 09, 2014 at 09:28 PM, James_ wrote: > Ok. So I sent the timing at 12 BTDC with emission vacuum hose > disconnected and taped to cover hole. Dwell is actually dead on 40. > Rechecked points. They are .015inch > > There is barely any wobble to the dizzy. Tiny bit. Timing is at around > 4 BTDC but it isn't super steady. Bounces a bit. The RPMs are at > 1200-1400. > > Maybe now I need to go to the carbs and idle screws. > > bSent from my Atari 2600b > >> On Sep 9, 2014, at 11:35 AM, "Bob Peglow" wrote: >> >> Hi James, >> When you connect dwell meter make sure it is set for 6 cylinders. >> Try looking at engine RPM on the meter. If it closely matches your >> car tachometer RPM the meter is probably working correctly. >> Switch the meter to the dwell setting and you should see reading of >> 35 or so. >> Dwell affects timing. If the dwell is 35 +or- 3 degrees you are in >> the ball park. >> Others may jump in with setting opinions. >> Good luck. >> Regards, >> Bob >> >> >>> On Tue, Sep 09, 2014 at 01:23 PM, James_ wrote: >>> >>> Thanks. >>> So I set the timing last night and retarded it down to around 8 it >>> was higher (12?). I think it is BTDC, but I forget which is which. >>> Hah. That's a problem, huh? I was trying out the timing last night >>> and it was probably set fine. So do I disconnect and plug the vacuum >>> tube or not? I guess I'll try to plug it and set to 12 BTDC. I think >>> it may have been close to that and then with vacuum connected again >>> would retard to around 4 degrees. Hmm. >>> Carbs were rebuilt (by me) and fresh Diaphragms. >>> Anyone use a device to measure points, dwell, etc? I bought one but >>> that may be specific to American cars. I guess I could have the >>> dizzy rebuilt. I dread placing it back in. I recall that being a >>> pain in the past. What is the opinion of the petronix (?) thingy? I >>> am guessing that replaces the points? Thanks so much! >>> >>> bSent from my Atari 2600b >>> >>>> On Sep 8, 2014, at 11:19 PM, "Sally or Dick Taylor" wrote: >>>> >>>> When you write that you set your timing at "8 degrees" I can't tell >>>> if you mean before or after TDC. I believe the manual suggests that >>>> the ignition timing be set at 4 deg. ATDC, when the vacuum retard >>>> line is connected. If you set yours at 8 deg. ATDC, then your >>>> timing is retarded too far. It should run that way of course, but >>>> the timing will be retarded even when the retard feature "goes >>>> away" like when you open the throttle. I suggest doing what many do >>>> here, and that is to plug the vacuum line that goes to the >>>> distributor, then set the timing at 12 deg. BTDC, as in Before top >>>> dead center. You'll want the engine idle speed to be as close to >>>> 800rpm as you can get it using the carb idle screws, as any engine >>>> speed more than this will start bringing in the mechanical advance >>>> that can change the result. Reconnect the vacuum retard line, if >>>> you wish. The result of reconnecting the vacuum retard will slow >>>> the engine idle speed down some. If it is then idling too slow, >>>> speed it up by > u >>> sing the carb idle screws. >>>> >>>> Watch the timing marks on your front pulley to be sure they go >>>> higher as the engine revs go up. If the highest mark is 24 on your >>>> pulley, speeding up your engine past 2500 rpms should take it >>>> beyond this mark. >>>> There is nothing inherently wrong with the 1976 TR6. More original >>>> emission controls, but it's still possible for your engine to run >>>> well. >>>> Dick _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 10 15:18:42 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8D7452584C5F for ; Wed, 10 Sep 2014 15:18:42 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from outbound-mail02.vgs.untd.com (outbound-mail02.vgs.untd.com [64.136.55.36]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with SMTP id B35592580706 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Wed, 10 Sep 2014 15:18:35 -0600 (MDT) s=alpha; t=1410384083; bh=47DEQpj8HBSa+/TImW+5JCeuQeRkm5NMpJWZG3hSuFU=; l=0; h=From:Date:To:Subject:Message-Id:Content-Type; b=r2N22Qu3y6CDSg65cPpr+g2CpZ7H/qseI858q1OINreIATT3wRrK2CJ9Kg+cgtuR+ qjH10/r+vvmd+n8wR0ovqeHjQCnitg+9X8L/F+1lGCiOqRe41xWx9gH//3nQmhU+ho f9Jxvrlqz/8QnTTnd3jqciEp7BRkdZ+7YNg97lFA= Received: from outbound-bu1.vgs.untd.com (webmail01.vgs.untd.com [10.181.12.141]) by smtpout04.vgs.untd.com with SMTP id AABLBBSGQAMDE8Y2 for <6pack@autox.team.net> (sender ); Wed, 10 Sep 2014 14:21:18 -0700 (PDT) Received: from [98.89.210.49] by webmail01.vgs.untd.com with HTTP: Wed, 10 Sep 2014 21:20:18 GMT From: "triumph72@juno.com" Full-Name: "triumph72@juno.com" Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2014 21:20:18 GMT To: 6pack@autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Elex Diagnosis... Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Met a recent buyer of '74 TR6, the fuel and temp gauges along w/fan motor are inoperable...I don't have my TR6 manual/wiring diagram w/me (I traveling), can someone troubleshoot thisfor me, please. Are these items on the same circuit? I've checked the fuses, they look goodand he's only just got it back on the road after a few year layup.Reply to me directly as I'm on digest.Your time and effort is greatly appreciated.Yours in Triumphs, Steve W ____________________________________________________________ The End of the "Made-In-China" Era The impossible (but real) technology that could make you impossibly rich. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5410c0ce91dcb40ce6673st04vuc _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 10 15:33:28 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 38BCC2584C77 for ; Wed, 10 Sep 2014 15:33:28 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net [167.206.4.200]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id AE1382584C5D for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Wed, 10 Sep 2014 15:33:23 -0600 (MDT) Received: from vwm28.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (vwm28.srv.hcvlny.cv.net [167.206.10.58]) by mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (Sun Java System Messaging Server 6.2-8.04 (built Feb 28 2007)) with ESMTPA id <0NBP00IB3G0BILY0@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> for 6pack@autox.team.net; Wed, 10 Sep 2014 17:36:12 -0400 (EDT) Received: from [69.126.235.217] by webtop.webmail.optimum.net with HTTP; Wed, 10 Sep 2014 17:36:11 -0400 Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2014 17:36:11 -0400 (EDT) From: Bob Peglow To: "triumph72@juno.com" References: <20140910.162018.16952.0@webmail01.vgs.untd.com> User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3 Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Elex Diagnosis... Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Yes they are on the same circuit along with brake lights, hazard, wipers and turn signals. Fuse is white wire in and green wire out to loads. Bob On Wed, Sep 10, 2014 at 05:20 PM, triumph72@juno.com wrote: > Met a recent buyer of '74 TR6, the fuel and temp gauges along w/fan > motor are > inoperable...I don't have my TR6 manual/wiring diagram w/me (I > traveling), can > someone troubleshoot thisfor me, please. Are these items on the same > circuit? > I've checked the fuses, they look goodand he's only just got it back > on the > road after a few year layup.Reply to me directly as I'm on digest.Your > time > and effort is greatly appreciated.Yours in Triumphs, Steve W > ____________________________________________________________ > The End of the "Made-In-China" Era > The impossible (but real) technology that could make you impossibly > rich. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5410c0ce91dcb40ce6673st04vuc > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow@optonline.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 10 19:12:29 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 787212584C84 for ; Wed, 10 Sep 2014 19:12:29 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC4S2.hotmail.com (blu004-omc4s2.hotmail.com [65.55.111.141]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8C0BF2580876 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Wed, 10 Sep 2014 19:12:22 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU406-EAS419 ([65.55.111.137]) by BLU004-OMC4S2.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Wed, 10 Sep 2014 18:15:11 -0700 References: <1410243559.27512.YahooMailNeo@web160304.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <66ecddae.e9dd2.1485bb34582.Webtop.43@optonline.net> <10491db3.eb089.1485fd28122.Webtop.43@optonline.net> From: James_ Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2014 18:15:09 -0700 To: Bob Peglow FILETIME=[D598D790:01CFCD5D] Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Tune up help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net So I will need to tinker with the carbs next. Needle and idle. Not sure about mixture screw. And how to tell it is set properly without a CO sniffer. I own the Bentley manual. It just seems I always need to tinker shortly after I get everything set. Probably typical of these cars and we all experience that. Hah. So in the past, at stop lights I find myself pulling the choke out to keep it from dying. Always thought it was poor carb adjustments. Is that correct? Or maybe it is everything. What types of things do others typically have to adjust often? Points, valves and possibly timing seem most logical and is what I end up adjusting often I. The past. Carbs should hold up longer I would think. Thanks again everyone. American cars don't compare in the level of joy...except maybe a 60's corvette stingray! James bSent from my Atari 2600b > On Sep 10, 2014, at 6:48 AM, "Bob Peglow" wrote: > > Seems timing and advance are in the ballpark. > What are the running/performance symptoms now? > Bob > > >> On Tue, Sep 09, 2014 at 09:28 PM, James_ wrote: >> >> Ok. So I sent the timing at 12 BTDC with emission vacuum hose disconnected and taped to cover hole. Dwell is actually dead on 40. Rechecked points. They are .015inch >> >> There is barely any wobble to the dizzy. Tiny bit. Timing is at around 4 BTDC but it isn't super steady. Bounces a bit. The RPMs are at 1200-1400. >> >> Maybe now I need to go to the carbs and idle screws. >> >> bSent from my Atari 2600b >> >>> On Sep 9, 2014, at 11:35 AM, "Bob Peglow" wrote: >>> >>> Hi James, >>> When you connect dwell meter make sure it is set for 6 cylinders. >>> Try looking at engine RPM on the meter. If it closely matches your car tachometer RPM the meter is probably working correctly. >>> Switch the meter to the dwell setting and you should see reading of 35 or so. >>> Dwell affects timing. If the dwell is 35 +or- 3 degrees you are in the ball park. >>> Others may jump in with setting opinions. >>> Good luck. >>> Regards, >>> Bob >>> >>> >>>> On Tue, Sep 09, 2014 at 01:23 PM, James_ wrote: >>>> >>>> Thanks. >>>> So I set the timing last night and retarded it down to around 8 it was higher (12?). I think it is BTDC, but I forget which is which. Hah. That's a problem, huh? I was trying out the timing last night and it was probably set fine. So do I disconnect and plug the vacuum tube or not? I guess I'll try to plug it and set to 12 BTDC. I think it may have been close to that and then with vacuum connected again would retard to around 4 degrees. Hmm. >>>> Carbs were rebuilt (by me) and fresh Diaphragms. >>>> Anyone use a device to measure points, dwell, etc? I bought one but that may be specific to American cars. I guess I could have the dizzy rebuilt. I dread placing it back in. I recall that being a pain in the past. What is the opinion of the petronix (?) thingy? I am guessing that replaces the points? Thanks so much! >>>> >>>> bSent from my Atari 2600b >>>> >>>>> On Sep 8, 2014, at 11:19 PM, "Sally or Dick Taylor" wrote: >>>>> >>>>> When you write that you set your timing at "8 degrees" I can't tell if you mean before or after TDC. I believe the manual suggests that the ignition timing be set at 4 deg. ATDC, when the vacuum retard line is connected. If you set yours at 8 deg. ATDC, then your timing is retarded too far. It should run that way of course, but the timing will be retarded even when the retard feature "goes away" like when you open the throttle. I suggest doing what many do here, and that is to plug the vacuum line that goes to the distributor, then set the timing at 12 deg. BTDC, as in Before top dead center. You'll want the engine idle speed to be as close to 800rpm as you can get it using the carb idle screws, as any engine speed more than this will start bringing in the mechanical advance that can change the result. Reconnect the vacuum retard line, if you wish. The result of reconnecting the vacuum retard will slow the engine idle speed down some. If it is then idling too slow, speed it up by >> u >>>> sing the carb idle screws. >>>>> >>>>> Watch the timing marks on your front pulley to be sure they go higher as the engine revs go up. If the highest mark is 24 on your pulley, speeding up your engine past 2500 rpms should take it beyond this mark. >>>>> There is nothing inherently wrong with the 1976 TR6. More original emission controls, but it's still possible for your engine to run well. >>>>> Dick _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 11 06:13:56 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 96BA92584C9F for ; Thu, 11 Sep 2014 06:13:56 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC4S24.hotmail.com (blu004-omc4s24.hotmail.com [65.55.111.163]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 78D102584C83 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 11 Sep 2014 06:13:22 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU180-W33 ([65.55.111.137]) by BLU004-OMC4S24.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Thu, 11 Sep 2014 05:16:11 -0700 From: im sloane To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net> Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2014 12:16:11 +0000 FILETIME=[2CF468E0:01CFCDBA] Subject: [6pack] Engine guys? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Hey,How many thrust washers does a Spitfire have? Is it just one on the front and one on the back, or three? I ordered a 'thrust washer set' from MOSS, expected to get more than one, but what I got is two half-moons, and neither one have the little tab at the bottom. Did I get two tops and are missing the bottoms? Confused. Thanks for info, I don't want to sound quite so stupid if/when I call Moss Customer Service. thanks,Sloane 69-Six72-Spit _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 11 14:30:27 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 226392584CDD for ; Thu, 11 Sep 2014 14:30:27 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from bradakis.com (50-198-190-18-static.hfc.comcastbusiness.net [50.198.190.18]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 7F75D258461B for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 11 Sep 2014 14:29:52 -0600 (MDT) Received: from bradakis.com (50-198-190-18-static.hfc.comcastbusiness.net [50.198.190.18]) by bradakis.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id BA5832C013A for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 11 Sep 2014 14:32:41 -0600 (MDT) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2014 14:32:40 -0600 From: Mark J Bradakis User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:29.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/29.0 SeaMonkey/2.26.1 To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net> References: Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine guys? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net im sloane wrote: > Hey,How many thrust washers does a Spitfire have? Is it just one on the front > and one on the back, or three? Just the two. What you got is correct. mjb. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 14 21:31:16 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0DE4A25846EE for ; Sun, 14 Sep 2014 21:31:16 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from p3plsmtpa12-06.prod.phx3.secureserver.net (p3plsmtpa12-06.prod.phx3.secureserver.net [68.178.252.235]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 92A9125846AB; Sun, 14 Sep 2014 21:30:39 -0600 (MDT) Received: from 370Z ([76.184.172.222]) by p3plsmtpa12-06.prod.phx3.secureserver.net with id rFZU1o00D4oFfFQ01FZW7k; Sun, 14 Sep 2014 20:33:30 -0700 From: "dave n" To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>, Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2014 22:33:12 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Starting issues Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net this is a fun one. will be looking into it wednesday. herebs the story: 72 TR6; we removed the overdrive transmission and sent it to QM. car was running, driving, etc., but the tranny was awful. hopefully now its as good as it looks! we put the transmission back in, tested the OD without the engine running by putting it in gear and hearing/feeling the big click as it engaged. Then just for grins (we were exhausted) I cranked it over just as a test. I was a happy camper. done for the day. car has a starter switch in the engine compartment which we put that in. It pretty much goes from the battery, through a fuse, to the starter. a few days later I went to start the car and the switch turns to the right but the starter does not engage. I can start the car using the engine compartment switch, but not the ignition switch. the ignition switch goes straight to the starter according to the wiring diagram I have. so its got to be the switch or more likely a connection? anyone have a labeled picture or diagram of the back of the starter switch? other ideas? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 15 09:33:08 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 501FC2584819 for ; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 09:33:08 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC4S19.hotmail.com (blu004-omc4s19.hotmail.com [65.55.111.158]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id EC62D258076D for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 09:32:37 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU180-W70 ([65.55.111.137]) by BLU004-OMC4S19.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Mon, 15 Sep 2014 08:35:29 -0700 From: im sloane To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 15:35:29 +0000 References: , <541206E8.8030600@bradakis.com>, FILETIME=[AE253870:01CFD0FA] Subject: [6pack] FW: Engine guys? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net thanks,, I know I'll see when I get them off, but does it just go on the back side of the rear main or what? I'm confused because the picture in the Moss summer engine sale catalog shows two sets, and the bottoms have the little tabs, which I thought kept them from spinning around. Of course I know that picture isn't showing a Spit-4 specifically. This is my first attempt at anything inside an engine. Working on a low hot oil pressure at idle problem. I had hoped that maybe only replacing the rod bearings would do the trick, but no such luck, so now I'm going back in for the mains and thrust washers. Good pressure when cold, so I'm thinking the pump is fine. It was funny getting that Moss Summer Sale catalog. I sat and thought, Hey, that's all the stuff I need, with nice big pictures!! thanks for any info,Sloane :) > Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2014 14:32:40 -0600 > From: mark@bradakis.com > To: 6pack@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine guys? > > im sloane wrote: > > Hey,How many thrust washers does a Spitfire have? Is it just one on the front > > and one on the back, or three? > > Just the two. What you got is correct. > > mjb. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 15 15:38:45 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id DA08725846CC for ; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 15:38:45 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ig0-f174.google.com (mail-ig0-f174.google.com [209.85.213.174]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id D181C258083A for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 15:35:51 -0600 (MDT) Received: by mail-ig0-f174.google.com with SMTP id h18so4734162igc.1 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 14:38:44 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:from:date:message-id:subject:to:content-type; bh=wd5T9WCrmjpuzGQsf49ltCuxm8yEDRSbgzLIuiD7Lf4=; b=o2Sg5w8WE68z4ljuYCBRN7HgOkiG6cjf2U5XfyviK691fyt3QlhdueU55uIPMHFOAJ FsSvJblAjKhk/uhTuRrAgUMQZNshguDLojFPLspGtAtSPuhJ27QW7VOECdM4KsY5fY+d 66hQbFA1Ih7SCqdRq3C17F8yU7w4g7QMmKG6xck4QuL90bajfL2GIi9KVAWvUlY2rH81 UO9n7jcfAVvjbaBlk4cUaGA9W3UG22jvf8jYQul07eOxCT6v2V+RdLdbP4EFvtn3qx9U jqtQTaX3ph17l7WFtHH+Ic9+DFKfE3pRoWff/huU0664lgGr4+DtGs8EFOvgmaqSCtwE X9UA== ij7mr25308238igb.49.1410817124019; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 14:38:44 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.50.250.167 with HTTP; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 14:38:23 -0700 (PDT) From: David Friedlander Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 17:38:23 -0400 To: 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Tire Pressure? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Sorry to beat up what might be an 'old' question but: What tire pressure are folks using? I know the inflation guide on the inside of the glovebox door lists pressure of 20 psi in the fronts and 24 lbs in the rears..... I can see those numbers if you're running redlines or Classic Cokers or Michelins. But, with today's tires is that still the way to go? Anybody using 30 or 35 lbs.? Dave '74 Six _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 15 15:55:31 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 7E07925849F7 for ; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 15:55:31 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from nm42-vm6.bullet.mail.bf1.yahoo.com (nm42-vm6.bullet.mail.bf1.yahoo.com [216.109.114.205]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 84101258083F for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 15:55:25 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [98.139.215.143] by nm42.bullet.mail.bf1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 15 Sep 2014 21:58:17 -0000 Received: from [98.139.212.209] by tm14.bullet.mail.bf1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 15 Sep 2014 21:58:17 -0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] by omp1018.mail.bf1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 15 Sep 2014 21:58:17 -0000 Received: (qmail 61485 invoked by uid 60001); 15 Sep 2014 21:58:17 -0000 s=s1024; t=1410818297; bh=teIKD07y1i9cmag05Ia0ljcFV1K8NVKJctxOpe5KeJc=; h=References:Message-ID:Date:From:Reply-To:Subject:To:In-Reply-To:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=AdmfbSIlUQa15Twe6nBmM7GBOajzTp+2MIJYcLQU2llLhD8mA8Dj0JU+4N78JasQq6AdcTNGEaOsmfzfCdf2pWrymnwYQ3j0qSyHAydriVz6134tX/kk0ymiKmIAyuNOHJQWhFzNlqoMxxxgjAI25QQZJACwlwEgnvLwy7a2aU8= 5m_WOrUJAx_WwTfP9VeT_tDgYerCbnOmqFit2tWdW9MTvzvviMWCKN9Xnrc_ h37B4RwwrHimFv.dV2L5FGUgReUqCsLuHkn3gRkoyUnoPGGrGxwIf5PR.UZ_ KrsAHtJy5xFWQQy7hcLiTqkRLSqtPm4cH4fMZ2ID9vVjyHReLwIW7VrBf3hK l4R23Zje0uiDzKOFgUX2LqH3RDwPaFV8bFBosdI.wVjXtXg1SPUO7qTomYvr LMuHHxy4aVn3Z2MaPWevJAn1rArNz4MgDCFJUQLRyVcABXOPK.mWsC0TtjTh tFMgQDy5zHwDtk.p_kXaODwzSO5UN96vf3ZqYMfrmUTbqXNGnAXyCQRMYom4 s_53nRCh3bU2dpCwMOFEe3NRwuICl6yhh54WPQkrLVOTcLeuPB5_iJNr5aBl Vruts7e7Dw965oGqxgI2Sr12M7qV.5wP6b4AHn6j7HRK6qu02ZaOkbTkCm.K HRbyJW928hBR5IUhngC5fYKYW1nlFmSbyTOkm_XbphnqvBQ5YyZVYIa8V_so fJ5dKVtv8_q_D61FjuXn7tq2m6ca.BUZSLjR81nqqRvN5oQ-- Received: from [173.22.61.220] by web142604.mail.bf1.yahoo.com via HTTP; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 14:58:17 PDT SSB1c2VkIDMyIGxicyBpbiB0aGUgUGlyZWxsaWVzIG9uIG15IG9sZCAnU2l4LiBJIHRyaWVkIGxvd2VyaW5nIHRoZSBwcmVzc3VyZSB0byAyNSBsYnMgYW5kIGl0IGRpZCBub3QgaW1wcm92ZSB0aGUgcmlkZSBzbyBJIHdlbnQgYnkgdG8gMzIuCgogCkppbSBKb25lcwpKb25lcyBCZWx0b25lIEhlYXJpbmcgYW5kIEF1ZGlvbG9neQpKZWZmZXJzb24gQ2l0eSwgTU8KCgpPbiBNb25kYXksIFNlcHRlbWJlciAxNSwgMjAxNCA0OjQxIFBNLCBEYXZpZCBGcmllZGxhbmRlciA8Zm9yemlvbjdAZ21haWwuY29tPiB3cm8BMAEBAQE- References: Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 14:58:17 -0700 From: Jim Jones To: David Friedlander , 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Tire Pressure? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net I used 32 lbs in the Pirellies on my old 'Six. I tried lowering the pressure to 25 lbs and it did not improve the ride so I went by to 32. Jim Jones Jones Beltone Hearing and Audiology Jefferson City, MO On Monday, September 15, 2014 4:41 PM, David Friedlander wrote: Sorry to beat up what might be an 'old' question but: What tire pressure are folks using? I know the inflation guide on the inside of the glovebox door lists pressure of 20 psi in the fronts and 24 lbs in the rears..... I can see those numbers if you're running redlines or Classic Cokers or Michelins. But, with today's tires is that still the way to go? Anybody using 30 or 35 lbs.? Dave '74 Six Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 15 18:24:37 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0B02025847F8 for ; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 18:24:37 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mta31.charter.net (mta31.charter.net [216.33.127.82]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B27C725845DF for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 18:15:50 -0600 (MDT) Received: from imp11 ([10.20.200.11]) by mta31.charter.net (InterMail vM.8.01.05.02 201-2260-151-103-20110920) with ESMTP id <20140916001843.DZQ6769.mta31.charter.net@imp11>; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 20:18:43 -0400 Received: from mtaout005.msg.strl.va.charter.net ([68.114.190.30]) by imp11 with smtp.charter.net id rcJi1o0070fnx6C05cJihn; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 20:18:42 -0400 Received: from impout005 ([68.114.189.20]) by mtaout005.msg.strl.va.charter.net (InterMail vM.9.00.013.00 201-2473-140) with ESMTP id <20140916001842.PRVY24410.mtaout005.msg.strl.va.charter.net@impout005>; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 19:18:42 -0500 Received: from UserPC ([68.191.49.60]) by impout005 with charter.net id rcJi1o00L1HvRt801cJiNY; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 19:18:42 -0500 a=0XvWQ/Ro/I08oZQvByVktA==:117 a=0XvWQ/Ro/I08oZQvByVktA==:17 a=hOpmn2quAAAA:8 a=Cb7iMgpyOBYA:10 a=Nr0Jj-S_zigA:10 a=yUnIBFQkZM0A:10 a=kj9zAlcOel0A:10 a=zOoktvdPAAAA:8 a=vSmgjYQHCA3OO-cZM_wA:9 a=CjuIK1q_8ugA:10 a=J0aUVQLP0FIA:10 a=m3MdUl94G8cA:10 a=Q94xJtFWm3wA:10 a=hUswqBWy9Q8A:10 From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" To: "'David Friedlander'" , "'6-Pack'" <6pack@autox.team.net> References: Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 20:18:41 -0400 Thread-Index: AQFmJJyx2gxk7oCNHKeqlKkKjCLHZJzWPR2Q Content-Language: en-us Subject: Re: [6pack] Tire Pressure? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net For what it is worth, I usually adjust to 26 front, 28 rear on Kelly Explorer 205/65. That seems to work for us. Alex Thomson '73 Six -----Original Message----- From: 6pack [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 5:38 PM To: 6-Pack Subject: [6pack] Tire Pressure? Sorry to beat up what might be an 'old' question but: What tire pressure are folks using? I know the inflation guide on the inside of the glovebox door lists pressure of 20 psi in the fronts and 24 lbs in the rears..... I can see those numbers if you're running redlines or Classic Cokers or Michelins. But, with today's tires is that still the way to go? Anybody using 30 or 35 lbs.? Dave '74 Six $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson@charter.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 15 19:54:58 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 28BCF2584CBF for ; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 19:54:58 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from cdptpa-oedge-vip.email.rr.com (cdptpa-outbound-snat.email.rr.com [107.14.166.230]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 5EDE22580B37 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Mon, 15 Sep 2014 19:47:06 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [108.167.48.145] ([108.167.48.145:55435] helo=livingroompc) by cdptpa-oedge02 (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 3.5.0.35861 r(Momo-dev:tip)) with ESMTP id F1/C0-00551-54797145; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 01:49:58 +0000 From: "Greg Lemon" To: "Alex&Janet Thomson" , "'David Friedlander'" , "'6-Pack'" <6pack@autox.team.net> References: <005901cfd143$c5173440$4f459cc0$@charter.net> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 20:49:57 -0500 Subject: Re: [6pack] Tire Pressure? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net I run about 32 lbs front and rear Falken Ziex 912 205/65s Greg Lemon -------------------------------------------------- From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 7:18 PM To: "'David Friedlander'" ; "'6-Pack'" <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Tire Pressure? > For what it is worth, I usually adjust to 26 front, 28 rear on Kelly > Explorer 205/65. That seems to work for us. > > Alex Thomson > '73 Six > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David > Friedlander > Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 5:38 PM > To: 6-Pack > Subject: [6pack] Tire Pressure? > > Sorry to beat up what might be an 'old' question but: > > What tire pressure are folks using? I know the inflation guide on the > inside > of the glovebox door lists pressure of 20 psi in the fronts and 24 lbs in > the rears..... > I can see those numbers if you're running redlines or Classic Cokers or > Michelins. > But, with today's tires is that still the way to go? Anybody using 30 or > 35 > lbs.? > > Dave > '74 Six > $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson@charter.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/glemon@neb.rr.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 16 08:31:09 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C37432584E7D for ; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 08:31:09 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from isis.mit.edu (isis.mit.edu [18.142.2.157]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C387225807CE; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 08:30:38 -0600 (MDT) Received: from ISIS.MIT.EDU (ISIS.MIT.EDU [18.142.2.157]) by isis.mit.edu (8.13.8/8.13.8) with ESMTP id s8GEXUWW023135; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 10:33:30 -0400 Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 10:33:30 -0400 (EDT) From: "Robert M. Lang" To: 6pack@autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] TR6 at Jaguar Slalom Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Hi, Check out this video of my TR6 at a Jags of New England "slalom" a few days ago - the vid is shot from a cell phone, but the sound quality is "pretty good". Of course, I'm biased that way. :-) Here's the link: http://youtu.be/v4n1k0ewjd0 regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 16 09:28:20 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C0A4425850F9 for ; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 09:28:20 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mail-qa0-f53.google.com (mail-qa0-f53.google.com [209.85.216.53]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0671525806FB for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 09:27:03 -0600 (MDT) Received: by mail-qa0-f53.google.com with SMTP id n8so15031qaq.12 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 08:29:56 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; bh=2uMs4aYx0wQePz9YQaQW0uP6egvOdEP8Abcuc5wjgVA=; b=zQRei6mMT+vArPtroi0L5Hre3MjBtiujYJF0UnqOItacplzPeaD+xCOXj9rzyHnmkT fMb0NobsOVVqQ43bvF8KC3jPCDxqXLdw8BzxgvHfU0vHYvrwQNpMmJ4DGMB9/AhylmuS HfPtKk86bs2kMetjm484iHvOnudFmOgqyydJbP3Guqj/ISbVbLwccnntprOILvHsQl/X YvKYyox4L2gQCTmi43yc3yXcVqgr/VYqgZsvQZuklTRJP619uLaN8oRiBCMUYeu28trf yZ25mOJll6i4RlNGe+e7bm/iM3I5LWiiFJ8f3Krp5w5ShWt7cP1EmAXkBzFFep9+yWUV UCjw== z7mr21538045qal.94.1410881396459; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 08:29:56 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.96.154.137 with HTTP; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 08:29:56 -0700 (PDT) References: Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 09:29:56 -0600 From: Henri Lefebvre <75teer6@gmail.com> To: 6pack@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 at Jaguar Slalom Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Robert, Thank s for sharing, really fun to watch and listen to! Henri On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 8:33 AM, Robert M. Lang wrote: > Hi, > > Check out this video of my TR6 at a Jags of New England "slalom" a few > days ago - the vid is shot from a cell phone, but the sound quality is > "pretty good". Of course, I'm biased that way. > > :-) > > Here's the link: > > http://youtu.be/v4n1k0ewjd0 > > regards, > rml > ------------------------------------------------------------ > --------------- > Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent > Former NER Solo Chair | > Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > ------------------------------------------------------------ > --------------- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/6pack/75teer6@gmail.com > > -- Henri 75 TR6, triple webers _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 16 09:58:53 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0CB462585142 for ; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 09:58:53 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC4S32.hotmail.com (blu004-omc4s32.hotmail.com [65.55.111.171]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id CC72125806FB for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 09:50:25 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU180-W52 ([65.55.111.135]) by BLU004-OMC4S32.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Tue, 16 Sep 2014 08:53:18 -0700 From: im sloane To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net> Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 15:53:18 +0000 References: FILETIME=[55839410:01CFD1C6] Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 at Jaguar Slalom Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net We did the Jaguar course one year at our local 'The Gathering' LBC event. Lots of fun and harder than it looks. For those of you who have never done it, 1st loop is 'hour glass', 2nd loop is 'figure 8' and 3rd loop is 'oval'. Very fun, and fun watching other guys mess up! thanks for sharing! Good Run! Sloane :o) > Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 10:33:30 -0400 > From: lang@isis.mit.edu > To: 6pack@autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] TR6 at Jaguar Slalom > > Hi, > > Check out this video of my TR6 at a Jags of New England "slalom" a few > days ago - the vid is shot from a cell phone, but the sound quality is > "pretty good". Of course, I'm biased that way. > > :-) > > Here's the link: > > http://youtu.be/v4n1k0ewjd0 > > regards, > rml _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Sep 16 11:32:30 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 204AC2580946 for ; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 11:32:30 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ig0-f178.google.com (mail-ig0-f178.google.com [209.85.213.178]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id CF8A42580458 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 11:32:03 -0600 (MDT) Received: by mail-ig0-f178.google.com with SMTP id a13so498315igq.17 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 10:34:56 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:from:date:message-id:subject:to :content-type; bh=5FFvJfX/ljj3t13qFqc7HBukD2qomNDHFA0plkad1Ms=; b=aUzE5R0S6Cnbols5VkSsUbnmW4hqfsNZi1SB0kEO+0RnDnV6BvMlc2eLYm3S3NNe2E QNZ05k/0qabtsU9C44CiB7WKmOAfP3SpgqBrkyS1z1tuggRJa055PBNdylOVHhFm0+w2 74pSUJ4ls82hw+XArMrOTdhrtvQtqBDA71ki3HQOmD/uloWqint2UPMmvlnbrjOBP769 YkdeN4AarrT/1pxaOzsSZNDLfDEaq6GGDFMTWc+YNrr2yFqtYrQv3uZk/MgdJlca4V6R qHR9esmKWZkoMvReIfRcQDDexW3XYAmSS8hZttENHVbN2pv9rON+7Un4Ty4WQc5Psv+S 2mSg== ij7mr32065533igb.49.1410888896632; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 10:34:56 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.50.250.167 with HTTP; Tue, 16 Sep 2014 10:34:36 -0700 (PDT) References: From: David Friedlander Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 13:34:36 -0400 To: "Robert M. Lang" , 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Tire Pressure? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thanks, Bob and everyone who answered this question. Quite a range of pressures, from what I have heard back: Anywhere from 24 to 35 lbs. Good insights and explanations here, Bob so thanks again, Cheers all, Dave Friedlander '74 Six w/A-type OD Maine On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Robert M. Lang wrote: > Hi, > > I run Sumitomo HTR200's, 215/65-15 > > I run even pressure front and rear. 32 PSI. > > But there's more to this than just what folks run. I also have suspension > mods and the car is set up to be close to "neutral". So, it understeers a > lot less than the stock setup. And that's the key - the stock setup with > the higher pressure in the back is there to induce understeer. This is > deemed as more "safe" than to make the car tail-happy. > > I don't think I'd recommend even pressures if the car was running > something closer to the original Goodyear G800's or the optional Michelin > X's, because those tires (especially the Michelins) had waaaaaaaay less > grip than modern tires. > > Note that I can "rotate" my car in the wet with my setup, so I have to be > way less aggressive driving in the damp. Even if it is fun to drive around > with opposite lock!! > > c ya, > rml > ------------------------------------------------------------ > --------------- > Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent > Former NER Solo Chair | > Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > ------------------------------------------------------------ > --------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 19 17:58:38 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 54D6525857E0 for ; Fri, 19 Sep 2014 17:58:38 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from p3plsmtpa06-02.prod.phx3.secureserver.net (p3plsmtpa06-02.prod.phx3.secureserver.net [173.201.192.103]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id ED6E4258453E; Fri, 19 Sep 2014 17:57:51 -0600 (MDT) Received: from 370Z ([76.184.172.222]) by p3plsmtpa06-02.prod.phx3.secureserver.net with id tC0l1o00J4oFfFQ01C0mUS; Fri, 19 Sep 2014 17:00:46 -0700 From: "dave n" To: "Geo Hahn" References: <4A99540DAC394145B56EA3F0C9F5D483@Ranteer.local> Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2014 19:00:36 -0500 Cc: Triumphs , Triumph 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Starting issues Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net thank you, George!!!!! I did check that, and there was 12 volts at the red/white wire. then I ran power directly to that red/white wire from the battery, and got nothing. so I went to the other end, at the starter. there were two red/white wires coming in, and one must have been just hanging by a wire, because when I started playing with it, the last little wire broke. some time with the wiring repair kit, and now its all fixed!!!!!!!!! From: Geo Hahn Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 11:38 PM To: dave n Cc: Triumph 6 Pack ; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Starting issues I would think the next step is to see if the white/red wire/terminal on the back of the switch (possibly #1) gets 12V when the switch is turned to the start position. I assume the ignition switch is getting 12V on the brown wire since you are able to start the engine with the remote switch. Geo On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 8:33 PM, dave n wrote: this is a fun one. will be looking into it wednesday. hereb s the story: 72 TR6; we removed the overdrive transmission and sent it to QM. car was running, driving, etc., but the tranny was awful. hopefully now its as good as it looks! we put the transmission back in, tested the OD without the engine running by putting it in gear and hearing/feeling the big click as it engaged. Then just for grins (we were exhausted) I cranked it over just as a test. I was a happy camper. done for the day. car has a starter switch in the engine compartment which we put that in. It pretty much goes from the battery, through a fuse, to the starter. a few days later I went to start the car and the switch turns to the right but the starter does not engage. I can start the car using the engine compartment switch, but not the ignition switch. the ignition switch goes straight to the starter according to the wiring diagram I have. so its got to be the switch or more likely a connection? anyone have a labeled picture or diagram of the back of the starter switch? other ideas? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 20 11:34:10 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id DF66B25847AF for ; Sat, 20 Sep 2014 11:34:09 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC4S19.hotmail.com (blu004-omc4s19.hotmail.com [65.55.111.158]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 2E6B525807DE for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Sat, 20 Sep 2014 11:33:34 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU406-EAS434 ([65.55.111.136]) by BLU004-OMC4S19.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Sat, 20 Sep 2014 10:36:29 -0700 From: James_ Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 10:36:24 -0700 To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> FILETIME=[6950C540:01CFD4F9] Subject: [6pack] Carb tuning Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Update. Finally found time to play with the carbs. They stall out when lifting the damper. So I my the needle richer. (1976 carbs) The sync tool measures very different between the carbs. High number on the rear and lower on the front. That has always been an issue to get a proper reading exact between the two. The idle screw is very close to being out on the rear to help decrease the sync number. I have replaced throttle shafts and bushings on the carbs but I wonder if I have an air leak somewhere. Should I spray carb cleaner in spots to check for leaks. I seem to recall something like that to check. Idle is actually quite high. About 1300. Otherwise it feels like it wants to stall out. Ugh. Maybe I just find a place in Portland to have someone check this thing out. And tune it up for me. Going mad chasing the demons. bSent from my Atari 2600b _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2014 09:43:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] totally off topic well, sort of can anyone recommend a camera that I can mount easily, move from one car to another, that I can set to take a pictures say every 10 minutes, and how hard is it to put those pictures together into a bfilmb chronicling a car trip? in october I'm going to the 6 pack event in mississippi. Ibd like to mount it in the tow beast, then move it to the triumph. then have a film of my adventure. and right now my son is on his way to yellowstone. Ibd love to have a film of his adventure. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2014 12:42:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] totally off topic well, sort of >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2014 12:53:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A grab handle I am working on a TR4A project. The passenger lower crash pad did not come with the car. So I bought one. I went to fit it up and it looks like there is a grab handle under the glove box on a TR4A. I don't have that grab handle. Would anybody have one they would be willing to sell? Creig Houghtaling St. Louis, MO 314 401 7817 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2014 13:01:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] totally off topic well, sort of References: Grr. Let my try that again copy / pasting through notepad to avoid any extra formatting... Go-pro. Does exactly what you're describing, many mounting options, not horribly expensive. One of my coworkers made this video on a day trip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22mjF222qv0 How it was made About 1600 pictures 4 video recordings 2 GoPro cameras (1 mounted inside the Mini, 1 mounted to the outside of the Mini) Tony Drews At 09:43 AM 8/2/2014, dave n wrote: >can anyone recommend a camera that I can mount easily, move from one car to >another, that I can set to take a pictures say every 10 minutes, and how hard >is it to put those pictures together into a bfilmbchronicling a car >trip? > >in october Ibm going to the 6 pack event in mississippi. Ibd like to >mount it in the tow beast, then move it to the triumph. then have a film of >my adventure. and right now my son is on his way to yellowstone. Ibd love >to have a film of his adventure. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2014 18:59:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Stock Valve Guide clearance? What is the stock valve guide clearance for cast iron valve guides for a 1296 Spitfire? My manual seems to forgotten that detail. Goggle didnt help. Thanks Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2014 13:49:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A grab handle metal substructure needed I talked to a friend who can fabricate a replacement metal substructure for me. But if anyone on this list would know where I can find a used one to buy, that would probably be much easier. From: Will Daehler [mailto:will.daehler at gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2014 9:07 PM To: creig555 at live.com Subject: TR4A grab handle Creig There is a piece of complex and curved sheet metal that is screwed onto inside the padded and vinyl portion of that grab handle. It is NLS. Look for a TR4 that is being parted out, take the donor handle and remove the sheet metal piece and transfer it to the newer grab handle. Will Daehler 63 TR4 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2014 15:59:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] More OD (electrical?) Woes So I have the trans tunnel off of the TR3A. When you throw the OD switch, nothing happens. I put a test light at the bullet connector to the solenoid and get a light. My multimeter is dead and I am heading into town now to get a 9V battery to get it going again so I can measure voltage going to the solenoid. I tried a battery charger on the solenoid on the workbench and it seemed to actuate well. I tried the battery charger test on the solenoid installed in the car and it didn't move. The circuit to the solenoid has a fuse that blew somewhere in my testing. I changed out the 20 amp fuse. It worked with the old solenoid as installed for about 15 years. The car has had a dead battery several times in the last month. Coincidence? Not sure what is going on there. My TRF repro OD switch is a little finicky and I have had to wiggle it side to side to get the OD to engage in the past. It is still that way. The trans and OD are topped off with oil. I tried the solenoid that came with the professionally rebuilt trans. It worked for about 500 miles and then the OD didn't engage anymore. I tried the solenoid that was in my last trans (that I changed out because it was rattling). It was working when I took it out, but now it doesn't work in the car. It is almost like the solenoid grounding path isn't complete. I have a woven grounding strap from the engine front plate to the frame. That should be good enough. Maybe I am not getting enough voltage to the solenoid when installed in the car, although my battery test should have taken care of that. Any ideas? Bill Brewer - Tehachapi >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2014 19:46:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] More OD (electrical?) Woes References: <1407106771.41821.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Bill, You need to eliminate the relay as the problem. Did you do the Dan Masters check list? Bypass the relay by running a lead from the brown wire directly the yellow/purple on the relay to see if the solenoid engages. If it does then the relay is most likely bad. Burned contacts on a relay will allow the right voltage to the bullet on the solenoid and all seems well but burned contacts dont send enough current (amps) to the solenoid to energize the pulling coil in the solenoid. Steve Yott (see below) explained it to me when I had a bad solenoid. Also check the wires on the OD switch, the wires can appear to be attached but see if they wiggle, hence > This is normally caused by a bad relay. When the contacts as burned you > will see the voltage appearing on the wire you are talking about but not > enough current can pass through the contacts to supply the 20 amps needed to > induce the solenoid to engage, once actuated it should then drop to a 2 amp > current draw. > > What it boils down to is that resistance (burned contact) will read the > voltage through the connection but not allow enough current to pass. > > Steve Yott Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 08:35:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] More OD (electrical?) Woes > So I have the trans tunnel off of the TR3A. When you > throw the OD switch, > nothing happens. I put a test light at the bullet connector > to the solenoid > and get a light. Was that with the solenoid still connected? > I tried a battery charger on the solenoid on the workbench and > it seemed to actuate well. > I tried the battery charger test on the > solenoid installed in the car and it didn't move. Sounds like a classic case of the pull-in coil not working. The holding coil will move the plunger, as long as it isn't connected to anything. > The circuit to the > solenoid has a fuse that blew somewhere in my testing. I > changed out the 20 > amp fuse. However, that sounds like the opposite problem; the solenoid wasn't able to move for some mechanical reason and the pull-in coil blew the fuse. Have you checked that it moves by hand when installed? > The car has had a dead battery several times in the last > month. Coincidence? Most likely; but I suppose it could indicate a relay problem. I'd tackle the OD problem first though, then check for leaks once that it solved. > Any ideas? Now that you've got your DMM going, check the voltage right at the solenoid, with the solenoid still connected. Press on the 'adjustment' lever on the opposite side, to make sure the solenoid can move. If it has 12v applied and doesn't move (but can move), then the solenoid is bad even if it was good before. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner) Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2014 19:48:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] early TR door pull finisher References: <1407106771.41821.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I have a '56 small mouth TR and am looking for two of the door pull finishers. None of the big 3 have it available. Does anyone have a source for one or a similar item that could be used? Not going for concours but would like to stay close to original. TIA Pete >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 17:01:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] early TR door pull finisher References: <1407106771.41821.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Home depot sells some sort of 'sash cord' that is a dead ringer for the TR pull cable. I got some in a bag with one of my project cars. I believe that they have little chrome finishing ends for it. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 20:20:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] early TR door pull finisher I have a '56 small mouth TR and am looking for two of the door pull finishers. Pete: Send a note to Mark Macy. He just might have a pair for you or he will send you in the right direction. _mark at macysgarage.com_ (mailto:mark at macysgarage.com) Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2014 05:21:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] early TR door pull finisher References: <1407106771.41821.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <15F339EF5EE440638EBE48A2FFD52A6F@HomePC> Macy's web site lists the door strap kit: http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/other_tr2_3_parts.htm#TR2/3%20Door%20Latch%20Pull%20Straps George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com 1957 Triumph TR3 1961 Jaguar Mark 2 1975 Triumph TR6 1997 Land Rover Discovery >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner) Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2014 07:19:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] early TR door pull finisher References: <1407106771.41821.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <15F339EF5EE440638EBE48A2FFD52A6F@HomePC> <53E0A224.50903@key-men.com> Thanks all for the link to Macys Garage. Pete >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 10:21:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 - TR6 front suspension I'm trying to do an analysis of the front suspension dimensional differences between the early TR4 cars and the TR4A and later cars. Below are some assumptions that I've made: The lower a-arms are the same from tr4 thru tr6. The upper a-arms are the same from later tr4 thru tr6. The vertical links are dimensionally the same except for camber/castor angle changes. I'm pretty sure the lower spring pans are the same with probably only slight differences but I believe the basic dimensions are the same. The upper fulcrums are the same just the orientation changes between tr4 and later tr4 thru tr6. Since the vertical links are the same overall length that should mean the distance between the upper fulcrum pivot point and the lower a-arm pivot point (on the frame) should be the same for all models. With all of that being said that tells me the installed spring height from the lower spring pan seat to the upper spring seat should be the same for all models. I'm betting the overall front end weight is pretty close between the 4 and 6 cylinder cars as I've read that the stock spring rate between 4s and 250s is only about 2 pounds (310 vs 312) So my unless I'm missing something then springs that are 10.1 inches tall from a tr250 should fit in a tr4 that originally had 9-3/4" springs and a 1-1/4" packing piece. In other words the 10.1" springs (and no packing piece) should be a direct swap for the 9-3/4" spring it its associated 1-1/4" packing piece. Anyone see any holes in my logic? Thanks! Brad >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2014 12:11:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 - TR6 front suspension mail.com> References: Lower A-Arms changed between the TR-4 (with 3 degrees of castor) and the TR-6 (with 3 degrees of castor), possibly when they went to the TR-4A IRS with the adjustable lower A-arm brackets. Vertical link changed between the TR-4 and TR-250 / TR-6 - went from studs sticking out of the lower trunnion to one with a bolt through the lower trunnion. The lower trunnion width changed with that, the "screw" that goes into the trunnion is larger diameter and shorter in the TR-6, and the location of the bolt / pivot changed in a way that lowers the car. Spring pans are the same. http://www.tonydrews.com/Front_Suspension/tr4_front_suspension_upgrade.htm But, the springs will fit, but will be a bit shorter than the original if I'm doing my math right: 9.75 + 1.25 = 11" vs 10.1" Tony At 09:21 AM 8/5/2014, Brad Kahler wrote: >I'm trying to do an analysis of the front suspension dimensional >differences between the early TR4 cars and the TR4A and later cars. > >Below are some assumptions that I've made: > >The lower a-arms are the same from tr4 thru tr6. The upper a-arms are the >same from later tr4 thru tr6. The vertical links are dimensionally the same >except for camber/castor angle changes. I'm pretty sure the lower spring >pans are the same with probably only slight differences but I believe the >basic dimensions are the same. The upper fulcrums are the same just the >orientation changes between tr4 and later tr4 thru tr6. > >Since the vertical links are the same overall length that should mean the >distance between the upper fulcrum pivot point and the lower a-arm pivot >point (on the frame) should be the same for all models. With all of that >being said that tells me the installed spring height from the lower spring >pan seat to the upper spring seat should be the same for all models. > >I'm betting the overall front end weight is pretty close between the 4 and >6 cylinder cars as I've read that the stock spring rate between 4s and 250s >is only about 2 pounds (310 vs 312) > >So my unless I'm missing something then springs that are 10.1 inches tall >from a tr250 should fit in a tr4 that originally had 9-3/4" springs and a >1-1/4" packing piece. In other words the 10.1" springs (and no packing >piece) should be a direct swap for the 9-3/4" spring it its associated >1-1/4" packing piece. > >Anyone see any holes in my logic? > >Thanks! > >Brad > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wbrazinski at hotmail.com (Wayne Brazinski) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 12:34:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] V8 TR3 Project Update Hi all!,Some of you might remember me from way, way back when I announced that I was planning a to work on a V8 conversion of my TR3. Well - after a decade (life got in the way!) I finally have a working vehicle and you can see a high level overview on YouTube at the link below. I know that I have modified the car and that this goes against some of your beliefs. I really apologize for this - the car did not have matching engine and chassis numbers so I didn't alter an as-is vehicle, and hope that makes things a little better. I have 500 miles on the car in all sorts of weather - so far no overheats with the 302. If any of you are interested in a bolt by bolt description I'll happily put one together for you. http://youtu.be/MYk4eFVzY9I Regards, Wayne >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 16:08:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] V8 TR3 Project Update References: Hi Wayne, I'd be the first to defend your right to modify your car as you see fit! But, word of advice.... The "non-matching numbers" excuse won't fly with anyone who knows anything about Triumphs. Unlike some other manufacturers, Triumph made no effort to match the numbers. They simply stuck whatever gearbox was handy onto whatever engine was at the front of the line, then stuck them into whatever chassis was waiting, then plopped whatever body was next in line onto the waiting assembly. Numbers on a single car are typically are off by hundreds, in some cases thousands. So your car actually might have had all the original bits. The only way to tell is to get one of the British Motor Heritage build certificates, which lists all the numbers, plus original paint and trim colors, factory-supplied accessories (if any), as well as the date and port of dispatch, the ship the car sailed upon, and the eventual destination port. My TR4 has more than a few "improvements". It came to me already with a lot of mods for auto crossing, when I bought it in the late 1970s. It was painted "Porsche Orange", too! It got resprayed fairly quickly, though I painted it red, rather than the original Spa White. The Shadow Blue interior had been dyed black and it wasn't until some years later that I discovered it had Datsun 240Z carbs on it (didn't matter... I'd converted to Weber DCOE 40s anyway). And I've always wanted to get a TR6 and drop a Rover V8 in it... Then take the TR6 engine to build a TR5 PI from a TR4A, but using modern Weber fuel injection. Always thought it would be fun to build up a GT6 Mark III too... though I'd probably stick with an inline 6-cyl. I've also got a TR4 frame set aside to build a TR3A "Beta" sometime.... which is a wider stance version of the TR3A that only existed in a couple prototypes. Triumph considered it as a replacement model, but produced the TR4 instead. The TR3B is a different animal than the Beta. It's more of a continuation of the TR3 line that was made concurrently with the early TR4s, for the traditionalists who objected to fancy things like roll-up windows. Wouldn't mind a building a TRS replica, too... Though probably with a TR4 engine and gearbox, and maybe a supercharger. An Italia is one car I'd keep absolutely showroom original, if I ever owned one. IMO, it's impossible to improve upon the Italia! Oh well... too many cars, not enough money or garage spaces! Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. amfoto1 at aol.com '62 TR4 CT17602L (with more than it's share of mods) www.triuimphowners.com/640 Triumphest 2009: https://www.flickr.com/photos/amfoto1/collections/72157626673107235/ >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 16:30:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 - TR6 front suspension References: <53e1106b.ca2f460a.446b.1442SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Tony, thanks for the info! The key would appear to be the location of the old style trunnion studs compared to the trunnion bolt on the later cars. I have both style of trunnions on hand so I'll give them a closer look this evening to see just how much difference there really is. From what documentation that I have found it seems that the installed spring height is supposed to be the same on all models, i.e. 6-3/4" (or was it 6-1/2"!) Either way from bottom spring pan to upper spring seat the distance is hopefully the same. Should be interesting once I install the springs this weekend. Thanks! Brad On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 1:11 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > Lower A-Arms changed between the TR-4 (with 3 degrees of castor) and the > TR-6 (with 3 degrees of castor), possibly when they went to the TR-4A IRS > with the adjustable lower A-arm brackets. Vertical link changed between > the TR-4 and TR-250 / TR-6 - went from studs sticking out of the lower > trunnion to one with a bolt through the lower trunnion. The lower trunnion > width changed with that, the "screw" that goes into the trunnion is larger > diameter and shorter in the TR-6, and the location of the bolt / pivot > changed in a way that lowers the car. > > Spring pans are the same. > > http://www.tonydrews.com/Front_Suspension/tr4_front_suspension_upgrade.htm > > But, the springs will fit, but will be a bit shorter than the original if > I'm doing my math right: > 9.75 + 1.25 = 11" > vs > 10.1" > > Tony > > At 09:21 AM 8/5/2014, Brad Kahler wrote: > >> I'm trying to do an analysis of the front suspension dimensional >> differences between the early TR4 cars and the TR4A and later cars. >> >> Below are some assumptions that I've made: >> >> The lower a-arms are the same from tr4 thru tr6. The upper a-arms are the >> same from later tr4 thru tr6. The vertical links are dimensionally the >> same >> except for camber/castor angle changes. I'm pretty sure the lower spring >> pans are the same with probably only slight differences but I believe the >> basic dimensions are the same. The upper fulcrums are the same just the >> orientation changes between tr4 and later tr4 thru tr6. >> >> Since the vertical links are the same overall length that should mean the >> distance between the upper fulcrum pivot point and the lower a-arm pivot >> point (on the frame) should be the same for all models. With all of that >> being said that tells me the installed spring height from the lower spring >> pan seat to the upper spring seat should be the same for all models. >> >> I'm betting the overall front end weight is pretty close between the 4 and >> 6 cylinder cars as I've read that the stock spring rate between 4s and >> 250s >> is only about 2 pounds (310 vs 312) >> >> So my unless I'm missing something then springs that are 10.1 inches tall >> from a tr250 should fit in a tr4 that originally had 9-3/4" springs and a >> 1-1/4" packing piece. In other words the 10.1" springs (and no packing >> piece) should be a direct swap for the 9-3/4" spring it its associated >> 1-1/4" packing piece. >> >> Anyone see any holes in my logic? >> >> Thanks! >> >> Brad >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 21:39:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] V8 TR3 Project Update References: Watched the video, looks like lot of fun, I am sure you have your own plans or idea in your head for what you want from the car, you mention it needs paint, I know cars looks nicer in pictures on the internet than they do in real life, but it sure looks pretty, shiny and smooth in the video. You paint it you spend a lot of time and or money and or both, and then you are afraid to drive it because it is all perfect and you might get stone chips, you can't park it because you might get door dings etc., you worry about it, it looks nicer when you park it at shows, but it becomes less fun. Just one man's opinion, just a thought, looks good, enjoy it! Greg Lemon >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 07:50:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] Information Hi: Steering Column Bushing installation through firewall headache! A job that just about drove me around the bend when attempting installing a new replacement Steering Column Bushing to my 1982 TR8. How the heck does one accomplish this?: even with prior soaking in hot water, pliers, fingers, screw driver. Anyway, it completely foxed me. And finally after over an hour of trying, I then for some time with a cup of tea sat on my garage stool pondering what else the blue blazes could I do!. Contemplating there has to be a better way that the factory used when building the car (installation likely without the engine yet installed!), when the voice of one of my very good Pals floated down from the Cosmos [I later found out he was playing tennis at that precise time the other side of Calgary]. A voice transmitting, bwhat would Ray do here....of course invent a toolb. So herebs my invention, consisting of a U sized piece of metal with a good strong bolt of sufficient length to protrude through the firewall to connect to a number of washers beyond the firewall in the engine bay. Washers that I had at hand; and of course a good strong nut over the washers with which to tighten the system. The U piece placed on the inside of the firewall inside the car. With the washers b again inside the engine bay - acting as a compression to push the bushing into place. And it works !!! I though would recommend using a U piece of steel instead of the piece of aluminum I used b at hand to see if this worked - that I cut into shape. That slighted indented itself with pressure. Though it still worked handsomely. Cheers Mike Coe, Calgary, Alberta, Canada >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 08:57:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Information References: Congratulations Mike, once again proving that necessity is the mother of invention. Bill B 1962 TR3b Sent from mobile Bill On Aug 6, 2014, at 8:50 AM, "Mike Coe" wrote: Hi: Steering Column Bushing installation through firewall headache! A job that just about drove me around the bend when attempting installing a new replacement Steering Column Bushing to my 1982 TR8. How the heck does one accomplish this?: even with prior soaking in hot water, pliers, fingers, screw driver. Anyway, it completely foxed me. And finally after over an hour of trying, I then for some time with a cup of tea sat on my garage stool pondering what else the blue blazes could I do!. Contemplating there has to be a better way that the factory used when building the car (installation likely without the engine yet installed!), when the voice of one of my very good Pals floated down from the Cosmos [I later found out he was playing tennis at that precise time the other side of Calgary]. A voice transmitting, bwhat would Ray do here....of course invent a toolb. So herebs my invention, consisting of a U sized piece of metal with a good strong bolt of sufficient length to protrude through the firewall to connect to a number of washers beyond the firewall in the engine bay. Washers that I had at hand; and of course a good strong nut over the washers with which to tighten the system. The U piece placed on the inside of the firewall inside the car. With the washers b again inside the engine bay - acting as a compression to push the bushing into place. And it works !!! I though would recommend using a U piece of steel instead of the piece of aluminum I used b at hand to see if this worked - that I cut into shape. That slighted indented itself with pressure. Though it still worked handsomely. Cheers Mike Coe, Calgary, Alberta, Canada >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wbrazinski at hotmail.com (Wayne Brazinski) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 09:41:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] V8 TR3 Project Update References: , Everyone,THANKS for your nice comments on the V8 TR3, I really appreciate it. Ironically my greatest critic was my Dad who thinks I should have done a better job recording the exhaust noise and I should have found more windy roads and the video was too long! Other than that he was happy. I'm offering to loan him out to anyone who needs an 83 year old Dad - minimum loan time is 1 month, and you have to feed and house him! Wayne > From: glemon at neb.rr.com > To: wbrazinski at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] V8 TR3 Project Update > Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 21:39:55 -0500 > > > > Watched the video, looks like lot of fun, I am sure you have your own plans > or idea in your head for what you want from the car, you mention it needs > paint, I know cars looks nicer in pictures on the internet than they do in > real life, but it sure looks pretty, shiny and smooth in the video. You > paint it you spend a lot of time and or money and or both, and then you are > afraid to drive it because it is all perfect and you might get stone chips, > you can't park it because you might get door dings etc., you worry about it, > it looks nicer when you park it at shows, but it becomes less fun. Just one > man's opinion, just a thought, looks good, enjoy it! > > Greg Lemon >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: michaelmarr5258 at comcast.net (MICHAELMARR5258) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 16:20:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] V8 TR3 Project Update References: Wayne: I have been wondering how you have been doing with the conversion.B You have achieved a lot more with your car in the last five years than I have with mine!B The car looks great and I will watch out for it during my drives around Plainfield.B Have you taken it to cruise night yet? B Mike >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: michaelmarr5258 at comcast.net (MICHAELMARR5258) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 16:36:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] V8 TR3 Project Update References: I just watched theB rest of theB video and thoroughly enjoyed the driving sequence.B I know those roads quite well.B The car looks nicely sorted - a slight rise of the front end under acceleration and flat as a pancake on the turns.B Really nice job, Wayne! Mike B >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jtgayton at icloud.com (Jeffrey Gayton) Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2014 11:53:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] CollarBond Reviews Greetings. Does anyone on the list have experience with ColorBond for vinyl and/or ColorBond for carpet? I'm considering going from blue to black, and would like to avoid the expense of an entirely new interior if possible. Thanks! -- Jeff 1962 Triumph Surrey Top TR4 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 20:12:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Surrey top question List: - Am I right to assume a Surrey top from a TR4 will fit a TR250? - Roughly how much is an original factory Surrey top worth? Comes with the hard-top section - both been lying around for a long time but rust-free. Thanks! Andrew >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 19:40:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] CollarBond Reviews References: <2EF1DD32-03AD-4F18-8175-5878389E625D@icloud.com> No experience with ColorBond. Ive had good luck with SEM vinyl/carpet paint. Ive sprayed it on a towel and freshened up my carpet where the sun had faded it. Also used it on sheepskin seats and it never rubbed off on clothing. Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2014 13:32:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 not 3a 57 smallmouth tr3 and Ibm putting in the grill and the glovebox. can anyone tell me the screws (I assume they are screws) for these? thanks! >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wbeech at flash.net (W Beecher) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2014 12:31:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 not 3a Check with Mark Macy at Macy's Garage. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jtgayton at icloud.com (Jeffrey Gayton) Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2014 16:46:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] ColorBond and Surrey Top on TR250 Thanks to everyone who replied to my question about ColorBond. Looks like it or a similar product by SEM is worth a try. In response to Andrew's question, I was flipping through Piggott's book yesterday and there are several pictures of surrey tops fitted to TR250s. They were apparently even available on TR6s. As for price, I was following them rather closely on eBay until I actually found one attached to a car I could afford :). One sold for $4000 in May. One failed to sell for $4,250 in June. I'm pretty sure two went for over $5000 in the early spring. I bid on one but lost, and some part of me thinks it went for over $6000. -- Jeff >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jtgayton at icloud.com (Jeffrey Gayton) Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2014 16:47:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] CollarBond Reviews References: <2EF1DD32-03AD-4F18-8175-5878389E625D@icloud.com> <733A20A3-BA1E-4B30-A212-2E4AF7BF90AB@comcast.net> Thanks, Bud. Further research online pointed me to SEM also, which seems to be favored by the pros. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2014 05:40:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] CollarBond Reviews References: <2EF1DD32-03AD-4F18-8175-5878389E625D@icloud.com> <733A20A3-BA1E-4B30-A212-2E4AF7BF90AB@comcast.net> <08599529-4923-4CF5-997D-880612977424@icloud.com> When I first completed my TR3, I used SEM to change the color of the seats from red to tan. That worked wel and lasted for 2 years with no flaw until I could afford the leather seat covers I wanted. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com 1957 Triumph TR3 1961 Jaguar Mark 2 1975 Triumph TR6 1997 Land Rover Discovery >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 09:45:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Downloadable, printable fastener reference info This might be useful to a number of us: http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Printable-Tools/Default.aspx Don 1962 TR3B TSF202L >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 11:31:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Downloadable, printable fastener reference info References: thank you! this is great!!! >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 16:54:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] ColorBond and Surrey Top on TR250 References: On Aug 8, 2014, at 2:00 PM, Jeffrey Gayton wrote: > > > In response to Andrew's question, I was flipping through Piggott's book > yesterday and there are several pictures of surrey tops fitted to TR250s. They > were apparently even available on TR6s. > > As for price, I was following them rather closely on eBay until I actually > found one attached to a car I could afford :). One sold for $4000 in May. One > failed to sell for $4,250 in June. I'm pretty sure two went for over $5000 in > the early spring. I bid on one but lost, and some part of me thinks it went > for over $6000. > > -- Jeff The hardtop available for the TR6 is different. However, the Surrey Top will fit and many TR6 owners have installed them. Keith Stewart keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: lee.k.janssen at gmail.com (Lee Janssen) Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2014 20:44:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle So I have a friend who is moving from Denver to Los Alamos and he has a 1973 MGB that has been sitting for the past 30 years. My friend, being an auto mechanic by trade, did not drain the gas tank prior to this prolonged storage (moron). Since may of you have resolved this problem tell me how long will it take to get the car running and what steps are required? Thanks Much >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 04:46:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle It could be anything from drain and refill the tank to new tank, lines, and carburetor/fuel pump rebuild. It's hard to say. If your friend is an auto mechanic he should be able to handle it without much guidance. Chad in Tulsa -------------------------------------------- On Sun, 8/10/14, Lee Janssen wrote: Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle To: "triumphs" Date: Sunday, August 10, 2014, 9:44 PM So I have a friend who is moving from Denver to Los Alamos and he has a 1973 MGB that has been sitting for the past 30 years. My friend, being an auto mechanic by trade, did not drain the gas tank prior to this prolonged storage (moron). Since may of you have resolved this problem tell me how long will it take to get the car running and what steps are required? Thanks Much >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 06:58:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle References: If your friend is a mechanic he should know the basics of waking the car back up, sounds like it will need the gas tank cleaned out, as well as the carbs, I would pour some Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders to lube them a little, new battery goes without saying, I certainly wouldn't trust the brake or clutch hydraulics after 30 years and he will want new rubber bits all around there, and probably new radiator hoses and belts soon if not immediately as well. Electrics will need to be tested, the fuel pump may need a good whack or points cleaned to get going, SU pumps don't like to sit that long. Obviously change the oil in the motor, check the oil level in the carb dashpots, drain flush and fill radiator, I am sure I am probably missing something, but that would be a good start. Greg Lemon >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 08:05:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle References: He's not planning on driving it, is he? Getting it running is one thing, getting it driveable is another. Getting it ready for a 350 mile trip is orders of magnitude more complicated. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Sun, Aug 10, 2014 at 10:44 PM, Lee Janssen wrote: > So I have a friend who is moving from Denver to Los Alamos and he has a > 1973 MGB that has been sitting for the past 30 years. My friend, being an > auto mechanic by trade, did not drain the gas tank prior to this prolonged > storage (moron). > Since may of you have resolved this problem tell me how long will it take > to get the car running and what steps are required? > > Thanks Much > >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 07:52:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle References: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/storage/ on how to revive a sleeping car >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 12:41:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Caged nut substitute? Needing to replace the caged nuts on my TR3 nosepiece and came across a clip style caged nut, 1/4x20, with little clips that hold the nut in place within the hole. Anyone with any BTDT recommendations? All the best, Bill B 1962 TR3B >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 12:07:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Caged nut substitute? References: McMasters.com , every fastener ever made. Bill Pugh Wallace, CA >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 19:08:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] Caged nut substitute? ---- Wbeech wrote: > Needing to replace the caged nuts on my TR3 nosepiece and came across a clip > style caged nut, 1/4x20, with little clips that hold the nut in place within > the hole. I really hate changing threads, especially those that are hidden from sight. So, faced with the same issue, I sourced some of the 1/4-28 caged nuts that Mark Macy shows on his website. I got mine at McMaster-Carr (who calls them "Easy-Align Weld Nuts"). http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=t8itdx They aren't a perfect drop-in, as they have a flange that is intended to protrude into the panel. You have to either enlarge the hole in the panel, or grind off the flange. But either approach is easy enough. BTW, I also picked up one of those cheap spot welders from HF, which worked a treat for attaching the nuts. -- Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 14:16:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Caged nut substitute? References: I have found them. Have you ever used them? Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Aug 11, 2014, at 2:07 PM, William Pugh wrote: McMasters.com , every fastener ever made. Bill Pugh Wallace, CA >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 18:44:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Post motor rebuild re-torque Hello List: Just wondering about how many miles following a motor rebuild (TR 2-4) should re-torquing of head & setting of valve clearances take place? Should any other re-torquing be done as well? Manifolds, etc? What is the correct re-torquing method - back off the nut and re-tighten to spec or just tighten to spec? Should an oil & filter change be done at the same mileage, or would you get higher mileage on the original oil? Thanks for any insights. Angelo Graham >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 15:45:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Post motor rebuild re-torque References: I re-torque the head at about 500 miles, and yes it never hurts to make a pass around the manifolds as well. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 23:24:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] Post motor rebuild re-torque Yes to both head and manifold nuts. Not a bad idea to recheck the manifold nuts even at major tune-up intervals, IMO, as they do sometimes seem to back off with heat cycling. > What is the correct re-torquing method - back off the nut and re-tighten > to spec or just tighten to spec? For head nuts, definitely back off and retighten to spec. At those high torque levels, the threads exhibit "stiction", which means it takes more torque to start them moving than it took to get there. But it's less important for the manifold nuts, IMO. > Should an oil & filter change be done at the same mileage, or would you > get higher mileage on the original oil? I do. Especially if you've used a special break-in oil, as many suggest. But even with regular oil, I feel it's good to get any wear products out ASAP. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 16:32:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle References: The good news is that the gas sold 30 years ago was a much friendlier formula for long-term neglect. It will still be useless of course, but possibly not set up in the glue-like gunk that modern fuels revert to fairly quickly. Our club does 'revivals' where we attempt to start a long-dormant car. We have never been defeated and our longest 'sleep' thus far was an MGA that had not run in 31 years: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0cLnCdetxg By contrast, an MGA that had only sat about 6 months was very difficult. The valve train was so solidly glued in place from old fuel that the engine was seized. Lots of carb cleaner and a ball peen hammer were needed to get it loose. Geo >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 23:43:09 +0000 Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle ---- dave n wrote: > http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/storage/ > > on how to revive a sleeping car Doesn't go nearly far enough for a LBC stored 30 years, IMO. For example, there is no point at all in trying to change brake fluid; you might as well start by tearing down every cylinder (including clutch slave & master) for inspection and possible rebuild. Expect to replace several of them. Likely the rear cylinders will have leaked fluid into the drum, which means new shoes. Replace all the soft brake lines. Change all the soft fuel lines (to ethanol resistant); rebuild the fuel pump (same reason), etc. By 73 it probably has plastic floats in the carbs, which will need to be replaced (along with cleaning and a minor rebuild). Have the radiator "rodded out". Full chassis service; best practice is probably to disassemble, clean and relube anything with grease in it including wheel bearings, wiper motor and so on. Plan on new tires _before_ attempting any speed over 30 mph. Just for entertainment, this is what the clutch slave looked like on my "barn find" TR3 (stored just about 30 years). http://tinyurl.com/q7rme55 -- Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2014 20:24:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle References: <20140811234309.2STUV.171020.root@cdptpa-web03> thanks for that, Randall. I have added your comments to the list. -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Monday, August 11, 2014 6:43 PM To: triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Rip Van Winkle ---- dave n wrote: > http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/storage/ > > on how to revive a sleeping car Doesn't go nearly far enough for a LBC stored 30 years, IMO. For example, there is no point at all in trying to change brake fluid; you might as well start by tearing down every cylinder (including clutch slave & master) for inspection and possible rebuild. Expect to replace several of them. Likely the rear cylinders will have leaked fluid into the drum, which means new shoes. Replace all the soft brake lines. Change all the soft fuel lines (to ethanol resistant); rebuild the fuel pump (same reason), etc. By 73 it probably has plastic floats in the carbs, which will need to be replaced (along with cleaning and a minor rebuild). Have the radiator "rodded out". Full chassis service; best practice is probably to disassemble, clean and relube anything with grease in it including wheel bearings, wiper motor and so on. Plan on new tires _before_ attempting any speed over 30 mph. Just for entertainment, this is what the clutch slave looked like on my "barn find" TR3 (stored just about 30 years). http://tinyurl.com/q7rme55 -- Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jtgayton at icloud.com (Jeffrey Gayton) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 09:42:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Newbie oil filter question Greetings. I just checked the oil on my new-to-me 1962 TR4 and need to replace it. The car has a Mann W719/14 filter on a Purolator filter adapter. What model K&N filter should I buy? Thanks for putting up with such a noob question! >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 12:47:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tranny install question List: I am a little rusty when it comes to installing the tranny back in my six. I have a special threaded dowel for the 12 o'clock hole on engine block to act as a guide. Am I supposed to have dowels at the 2 and 8 o'clock positions too? I had heard from one person to install a dowel in huge hole just above the top starter mount hole. Any help would be appreciated as I think it would speed up my install time. Last time I did one with only one dowel and it took the two of us 45 minutes of wiggling. Oh, the motor is installed and I have it attached to a hoist so I can adjust up and down as needed without resting on the firewall. Thanks in advance. Jim henningsen Ocala fl >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 13:21:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tranny install question References: <014679D4-21D6-4401-83FB-085A58CF5477@gmail.com> There are two holes that should have tight-fitting dowels in them. Scroll to the bottom of this page: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/LocatingDowels.htm and look for the yellow arrows. I ordered dowels from TRF along with my alignment shaft and a bunch of other stuff. They don't help so much for getting things lined up during install, but legend has it that they are essential for proper clutch operation. As for putting the thing in, patience is your friend. That, and making sure that a.) you got the clutch disc centered, and b.) that you didn't let the disc hang on the input shaft and get misaligned. Other than that, wiggle and turn, wiggle and turn. Eventually you will find the secret combination of swear words that unlock the transmission and allow it to jump on the engine. Whatever you do, don't force it, though. You have the back of the motor jacked up slightly, don't you? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Tue, Aug 12, 2014 at 12:47 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > List: > I am a little rusty when it comes to installing the tranny back in my six. I > have a special threaded dowel for the 12 o'clock hole on engine block to act > as a guide. Am I supposed to have dowels at the 2 and 8 o'clock positions > too? I had heard from one person to install a dowel in huge hole just above > the top starter mount hole. Any help would be appreciated as I think it would > speed up my install time. Last time I did one with only one dowel and it took > the two of us 45 minutes of wiggling. Oh, the motor is installed and I have > it attached to a hoist so I can adjust up and down as needed without resting > on the firewall. > Thanks in advance. > Jim henningsen > Ocala fl >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 12:24:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tranny install question References: <014679D4-21D6-4401-83FB-085A58CF5477@gmail.com> Another tip - put the tranny in 4th gear and rotate the output shaft a bit when you get close. That helps align the splines into the clutch disk. That's always the hardest part. Tony >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 12:27:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tranny install question References: <014679D4-21D6-4401-83FB-085A58CF5477@gmail.com> Sounds like the same process I used for my TR3 trans install. I just used the top dowel, this seems to give a little more wiggle room to get everything else lined up. Bill B -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 11:48 AM To: Subject: [TR] Tranny install question List: I am a little rusty when it comes to installing the tranny back in my six. I have a special threaded dowel for the 12 o'clock hole on engine block to act as a guide. Am I supposed to have dowels at the 2 and 8 o'clock positions too? I had heard from one person to install a dowel in huge hole just above the top starter mount hole. Any help would be appreciated as I think it would speed up my install time. Last time I did one with only one dowel and it took the two of us 45 minutes of wiggling. Oh, the motor is installed and I have it attached to a hoist so I can adjust up and down as needed without resting on the firewall. Thanks in advance. Jim henningsen Ocala fl >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 14:24:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 seatbelt installation Hello List: I am installing lap belts in my TR2 and have checked the archives for some background with no real clear answers. I intend to anchor the inside belt to the part of the trans/drive shaft tunnel that is welded to the floor. This puts the anchor bolt in "shear" position, which I have been told is OK. Just not clear on where to put the anchor for the outside belt. Thought of the wheel-well as the metal appears to be quite solid. Not sure of the sloping shelf panels behind the seats as they appear to be boxed sections & access may not work. Any advice on mounting location? Using high strength reinforcing washers and Grade 8 hardware. Thanks for any help with this one. Angelo Graham >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 15:45:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Newbie oil filter question References: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/filters/ I believe that all the spin on adapters are the same. please correct me if I am wrong btw my preference is wix; wix also makes the filters for napa; drop the first digit from the wix number and you'll have the napa number >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 21:45:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Post motor rebuild re-torque References: <53E9473B.6030902@execulink.com> >What is the correct re-torquing method - back off the nut and re-tighten >to spec or just tighten to spec? Just to add to what others have said, I've finally found that the Head nuts that are outside the valve cover are dry as a bone, while those inside are nicely oiled. Backing off the "outside" nuts, then retorquing always finished with a screeching sound (I think Randal had a name for it). This last time, I oiled the studs outside so that they would be equally oiled as the studs inside and so they would torque evenly. Probably unnecessary, but I seemed to feel like I got a more accurate torquing of the normally "dry" outside studs. Terry Smith, 1959 TR3A New Hampshire >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 21:48:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Newbie oil filter question References: <439F71AF5337411E8E0D1E7025206110@Ranteer.local> >btw my preference is wix; wix also makes the filters for napa; drop the >first digit from the wix number and you'll have the napa number Ditto on WIX and NAPA. Quality filters. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 23:49:48 +0000 Subject: [TR] Post motor rebuild re-torque While I agree with your efforts as far as consistency is concerned, I believe I have read that you are generally supposed to take torque readings with all threads dry. Greg Lemon >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 19:24:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tranny install question References: <014679D4-21D6-4401-83FB-085A58CF5477@gmail.com> My one man method which has always worked pretty good is to align and support everything eyeballed to be as straight as possible, then put on a pair of old jeans or overalls, sit on the tunnel behind the tranny and push forward with your feet on the lip of the bell housing on both sides while gently wiggling the tail shaft with your hands, works like a charm, but still sometimes they go home very quickly, and sometimes the seem to be a little, or a lot more stubborn. That happy moment where it lines up and slides on the last inch or whatever is one of the more satisfying feelings in wrenching. Greg Lemon >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 20:30:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tranny install question References: <014679D4-21D6-4401-83FB-085A58CF5477@gmail.com> <53ea4dc4.495e460a.0847.2736SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Thanks Tony and all who responded. I was missing the dowels so just did a quick order with 2 day shipping (ouch). This list is one of the reasons I have stayed in the Triumph brand and have not swayed to another sports car brand. You all are great. Getting close to firing up the spare tired motor to get my TR6 to the VTR! We need to make this one of the biggest ever for attendance! We can do this. The Florida gang is coming! Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 20:40:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tranny install question References: <014679D4-21D6-4401-83FB-085A58CF5477@gmail.com> <3DC4156E90D24C91848DC20EE1513808@livingroompc> Thanks and amen to that last line. When it slides in, it is a very good feeling indeed. Especially after wrestling with it for half an hour or more. Cheers, Jim -----Original Message----- From: Greg Lemon [mailto:glemon at neb.rr.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 8:25 PM To: Jim Henningsen; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny install question My one man method which has always worked pretty good is to align and support everything eyeballed to be as straight as possible, then put on a pair of old jeans or overalls, sit on the tunnel behind the tranny and push forward with your feet on the lip of the bell housing on both sides while gently wiggling the tail shaft with your hands, works like a charm, but still sometimes they go home very quickly, and sometimes the seem to be a little, or a lot more stubborn. That happy moment where it lines up and slides on the last inch or whatever is one of the more satisfying feelings in wrenching. Greg Lemon >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2014 19:48:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tranny install question References: <014679D4-21D6-4401-83FB-085A58CF5477@gmail.com> <3DC4156E90D24C91848DC20EE1513808@livingroompc> Greg Lemon wrote: > That happy moment where it lines up and slides on the last inch or whatever is one of the more satisfying feelings in wrenching. In one of Carroll Smith's "X to Win" books he talks about a night when he and a well known race driver were working well into the night to get the car ready for morning practice. They offer up the gearbox to the engine, and it slides home right away. They look at each other, and both conclude that the spigot bushing was not installed in the flywheel which is why it slid right in. They pull the tranny out to look and there in the flywheel is the spigot bushing. The second attempt to mate took a LOT longer. mjb. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tboggiano at gmail.com (Tom B) Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 06:00:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car shipping References: <014679D4-21D6-4401-83FB-085A58CF5477@gmail.com> <53ea4dc4.495e460a.0847.2736SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> <00a601cfb68d$d23ed1d0$76bc7570$@gmail.com> Has anyone used A1A express auto shipping to ship a car I am ok with unknowns just want to knowing they should be avoided Thanks Tom >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 08:05:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Car shipping References: <014679D4-21D6-4401-83FB-085A58CF5477@gmail.com> <53ea4dc4.495e460a.0847.2736SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> <00a601cfb68d$d23ed1d0$76bc7570$@gmail.com> <45965C6E-D9B9-4E72-B775-322EC13B7855@gmail.com> On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 3:00 AM, Tom B wrote: > Has anyone used A1A express auto shipping to ship a car... I haven't, but in my opinion something to ask (if you haven't already) is whether they own their own trucks & do the drivers work for them -- or do they turn around and farm out the job to an independent? Your car is only as safe & secure as the driver and truck involved. If it gets farmed out you will not only know little or nothing about the team but it could indeed be changing transport & drivers along the way. I've never had an problem shipping a car but I like to know exactly who will have it, that it will stay with that driver and transport the entire journey and have the cell phone number of the driver should anything arise. Geo >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 16:22:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] Wiper motor So there is this TR4A down at Bailey's shop that is slowly coming together. Today's setback was being told by the electrical shop that the wiper motor is toast, not rebuildable. But the Lucas RR3A square body two speed unit was pretty common on cars of that era, so hopefully a working example can be quickly acquired. Sources, approximate prices, anyone? First thing I'll do is look for one in my own garage. mjb. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 16:41:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] Wiper motor References: <53EBE513.7010801@bradakis.com> That should be a DR3A motor. mjb. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ashleys at farmside.co.nz (ashleys) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 11:13:09 +1200 Subject: [TR] TR3B For Sale I have a rebuilt LHD TR3B here in New Zealand.The only known 3B in NZ great touring sports car. For further details check-- www.Trademe.co.nz listing number 766749303 many thanks >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 20:23:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wiper motor References: <53EBE513.7010801@bradakis.com> <53EBE97D.7010409@bradakis.com> Mark, I might have one that is rebuildable. Well, actually, I tried to rebuild it a long time ago and I screwed up the brush holder. Everything else was OK. I think a replacement brush holder could be made. Let me know if you want it and send me your mailing address. Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 13:29:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6 clutches List, What currently available combo of TR6 pressure plate, disc, and throwout bearing actually works? I don't wish to rehash all the 'net discussions, just want to know if someone out there has found a currently available combo that functions properly. Ed Woods >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 12:45:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 16:22:11 -0600From: Mark J Bradakis To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Wiper motor charset=UTF-8; format=flowed So there is this TR4A down at Bailey's shop that is slowly coming together. Today's setback was being told by the electrical shop that the wiper motor is toast, not rebuildable. But the Lucas RR3A square body two speed unit was pretty common on cars of that era, so hopefully a working example can be quickly acquired. Sources, approximate prices, anyone? First thing I'll do is look for one in my own garage. mjb. ------- Hi mark! I have one that you might want. please contact me off line @TR4A2712 at yahoo.com -Cosmo Kramer >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 20:07:36 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering Hi, I've been fighting a problem with our TR4A for a couple of years and it just won't go away. Symptom is a "sputtering" at high-way speeds. Performance seems fine - it just becomes no fun on longer trips. Our annual fall sojourn to Stowe is coming up and I'm looking for ideas. So far: * replaced defective stainless steel muffler that had incomplete welds on the intake - lifetime warranty honoured by TRF - thanks guys! * fixed problem with coil to distributor wire which was not fully "home" in distributor resulting in pin making poor contact - checked all other plug wires at pins - ok * installed NEW plug wires (yellow/black) and distributor cap * perhaps unrelated, but replaced fuel pump that went bad 2 years ago in Stowe - replacement was Moss reproduction Any thoughts? Cheers, Brian _______________________________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-mail: 92 Wyona Lane, R R 1 Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 CANADA K0H >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 15:19:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering References: On Thu, Aug 14, 2014 at 3:07 PM, Brian Thomas wrote: > * installed NEW plug wires (yellow/black) and distributor cap > A friend who owns an auto parts store told me a few years ago that there were a lot of bad distributor rotors out there for the tractor engine cars. He sourced some from another provider and I never had another issue with my TR4 vintage race car. I also know that TR6 rotors were an issue for a while as well. When was the last time you changed yours? When mine went bad, it started out as a high speed misfire. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 15:33:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering References: Brian, Take Irv's suggestion of a new rotor first, I had heard the same thing a few years back. if the problem persists I would check the float level settings and that new fuel pump. I had a weak new fuel pump that showed up between 50 & 60 MPH. Sent from mobile Bill On Aug 14, 2014, at 3:07 PM, Brian Thomas wrote: Hi, I've been fighting a problem with our TR4A for a couple of years and it just won't go away. Symptom is a "sputtering" at high-way speeds. Performance seems fine - it just becomes no fun on longer trips. Our annual fall sojourn to Stowe is coming up and I'm looking for ideas. So far: * replaced defective stainless steel muffler that had incomplete welds on the intake - lifetime warranty honoured by TRF - thanks guys! * fixed problem with coil to distributor wire which was not fully "home" in distributor resulting in pin making poor contact - checked all other plug wires at pins - ok * installed NEW plug wires (yellow/black) and distributor cap * perhaps unrelated, but replaced fuel pump that went bad 2 years ago in Stowe - replacement was Moss reproduction Any thoughts? Cheers, Brian _______________________________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-mail: 92 Wyona Lane, R R 1 Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 CANADA K0H >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dbh97530 at gmail.com (Dave Hammond) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 13:55:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine mounting holes in frame References: I am about to mount the engine to the frame of my TR4A IRS. There are 2 sets of holes in the frame. Do I use the rear most? David 66TR4A >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 17:01:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering References: Brian, Had the same issue with my TR4A a while back. For reasons that will be apparent later, I need to state that I have an electric cooling fan which I rarely turn on. I use it only at stops, or slow driving. After close to an hour of highway driving, the car would act like it was being starved of fuel. I checked everything out (carbs, floats, spark, etc.) and everything looked OK. Plus, the problem would go away after I stopped for a little while. One day, for an unrelated issue, I installed one of those shiny heat shields for the carbs, and the problem went away! My theory is that running for long periods without the cooling fan on was causing enough trapped heat around the carbs to create a running condition akin to vapor lock. On Aug 14, 2014, at 3:07 PM, Brian Thomas wrote: > Hi, > > I've been fighting a problem with our TR4A for a couple of years and it just > won't go away. Symptom is a "sputtering" at high-way speeds. Performance > seems fine - it just becomes no fun on longer trips. Our annual fall sojourn > to Stowe is coming up and I'm looking for ideas. So far: > * replaced defective stainless steel muffler that had incomplete welds > on the intake - lifetime warranty honoured by TRF - thanks guys! > * fixed problem with coil to distributor wire which was not fully "home" > in distributor resulting in pin making poor contact - checked all other plug > wires at pins - ok > * installed NEW plug wires (yellow/black) and distributor cap > * perhaps unrelated, but replaced fuel pump that went bad 2 years ago in > Stowe - replacement was Moss reproduction > Any thoughts? > > Cheers, > > Brian >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper) Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 22:30:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mach3 - off topic References: <14d5e0bf.1cfb803.64c559f.651b@gmail.com> I apologise for the off-topic question, but I know there are a few CNC experts on the list. Does anybody have some experience with Mach3 software? I am building a 3D camera control system and setting up to use Mach3 for 3-axis controls. If there is a list member with a bit of knowledge, I would appreciate some insight on configuration and motor testing. Please contact me off-list. Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 06:17:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mach3 - off topic References: <14d5e0bf.1cfb803.64c559f.651b@gmail.com> .... seems like a complicated way to just control a 3D camera motion setup. Q me off list.... ...have converted a full mill, lathe and now s 3D router table all running M3 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KklafqyZpSY ptegler at verizon.net >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: binduni at gmail.com (Brian Induni) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 11:20:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering (Brian Thomas) Brian, I've had the issue MANY times on many different cars, and I would suggest the follow as a course of action, based on my 40 years restoring British classics: 1. Replace the points with a Pertronix unit 2. Replace the coil with the correct one for the above 3. Get the best cap and rotor you can, and not the generic kind 4. Adjust the valves to correct specs at the correct temp 5. Check and adjust if necessary the float bowl levels, and consider changing the float valves. Also adjust the F/A mixture. Use a ColorTune if you can. 6. Make sure you have a good heat shield in place and the fuel line is routed to mitigate the possibility of vapor lock 7. Check the timing and set as per the specs. Also make sure the vacuum advance (or retard if you have that setup as I do in my Stag) is working properly 8. Make certain the fuel is fresh and not contaminated. If any doubt, drain and refill the tank 9. Check for obstructions in the fuel line all the way to the carbs. I disconnect the lines and use compressed air to blow out (no need to 100psi) and catch whatever comes out. This will give some indication as to what might be lurking in the system. 10. Take it out right away and test! I've had this issue caused by one thing one time, and another thing the next, or a combination of things. It's always best to start off by setting and adjusting everything as it should be before you set out to correct an issue. Remember, there are ONLY 3 things needed: Fuel, air, and ignition! The trick is getting all 3 to be in the correct proportion and happen at the correct time! Sorry for the long winded answer, but I like to be as thorough as possible to alleviate headaches later. Brian I > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 20:07:36 +0000 > From: Brian Thomas > To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" > Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering > Message-ID: > < > C11A4D073AAF8042BECE2B3D862F4EF820A95A9E at MP-DUP-MBX-01.AD.QUEENSU.CA> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Hi, > > I've been fighting a problem with our TR4A for a couple of years and it > just > won't go away. Symptom is a "sputtering" at high-way speeds. Performance > seems fine - it just becomes no fun on longer trips. Our annual fall > sojourn > to Stowe is coming up and I'm looking for ideas. So far: > * replaced defective stainless steel muffler that had incomplete > welds > on the intake - lifetime warranty honoured by TRF - thanks guys! > * fixed problem with coil to distributor wire which was not fully > "home" > in distributor resulting in pin making poor contact - checked all other > plug > wires at pins - ok > * installed NEW plug wires (yellow/black) and distributor cap > * perhaps unrelated, but replaced fuel pump that went bad 2 years > ago in > Stowe - replacement was Moss reproduction > Any thoughts? > > Cheers, > > Brian >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 12:22:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Speedi-Sleeve for TR3 I rebuilt my TR3 engine with a new used crank. I polished up the area of the crank where the front seal goes using a very fine sandpaper and wet-sanding it with oil lubricant. Probably a mistake because 1000 miles later it is puking oil out the front seal. I am thinking about trying a Speedi-Sleeve as sold by Moss and TRF. I also installed a crankcase evacuation system. I got the idea from Kas Kastner's book. I have only driven it once since installing the system. It appears to be working, just not at the front seal... I have a few questions: 1. Can it be installed with the crank still in the engine but the timing cover off? Or do you have to pull the crank? 2. Would it be possible to install without pulling the bumpers, grill, front panel, radiator, cross member and everything else that we have to do to get at the front of the engine? Probably just a pipedream, but one never knows. Maybe it is possible. 3. Do they work well and are they worth the trouble? 4. Has anyone else used one of these recently? TIA, Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 15:52:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Speedi-Sleeve for TR3 References: <1408130571.57399.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Just a thought, but did you install the oil deflector between the gear and oil seal. Part #57196. Helps prevent the oil from throwing off the gear under speed and right on to the oil seal. Dean T. On Aug 15, 2014, at 3:22 PM, William Brewer wrote: > I rebuilt my TR3 engine with a new used crank. I polished up the area of > the crank where the front seal goes using a very fine sandpaper and > wet-sanding it with oil lubricant. Probably a mistake because 1000 miles later > it is puking oil out the front seal. I am thinking about trying a > Speedi-Sleeve as sold by Moss and TRF. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 15:01:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Speedi-Sleeve for TR3 References: <1408130571.57399.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Bill- I've done this a few times, it will solve your problem. > 1. Can it be installed with the > crank still in the engine but the timing cover off? Or do you have to pull the > crank? > No need to pull the crank. For that matter, you wouldn't need to pull the timing cover either for just the sleeve, but in your case it sounds like the seal is damaged so its cover off time. > 2. Would it be possible to install without pulling the bumpers, grill, > front panel, radiator, cross member and everything else that we have to do to > get at the front of the engine? Probably just a pipedream, but one never > knows. Maybe it is possible. > I've never tried it, but I think the front bits have to come off - you have to get that fan extension off and it takes some room to do so - the radiator is the biggest problem. I have pulled a fan extension off without pulling the cross member - but as I recall that was a tight fit as well. > 3. Do they work well and are they worth the > trouble? > Absolutely. You need to change the seal anyway which is the same work - the speedi-sleeve will give you a smooth sealing surface. > 4. Has anyone else used one of these recently? > Yes, and if you hunt you can find better prices than from the main Triumph suppliers. Part numbers which can work are 99175 or 99174 - 99174 being narrower but useable. A check on Rockauto shows a National sleeve for $22.79 + shipping for example. RegardsRandy >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 20:28:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering References: Thanks to all who have replied in regards to my "sputtering" problem. Lots of good ideas and I'll be working through the list. This afternoon, I pulled the plugs and the front two were a nice grey/tan colour while the back two were quite black. Suspect the rear carb (SU) needs to be leaned out a little. Another problem I'm having is that once the car gets up to operating temperature, the idle will not return to 800 rpm unless the gas pedal is goosed. I've been told my throttle shafts are worn and the carbs are likely sucking air around them. Is this the likely cause? The linkage is in good shape and moves freely. ... and while I've got your ears, a couple of parts I've replaced on the 4 have not lasted well - I wonder if others have experienced the same and how they've solved? 1. Radiator air deflector - this fibreboard product does not like to get wet (as it does when driving in the rain). The lip on the radiator side does not appear to be rigid enough to keep the top surface in shape and it sags down 3 or 4 inches. I'm on my second one at present. I've tried spray painting both sides with enamel (to waterproof it) but this has not been overly successful. 2. Turn Signal Switch - I'm on the 3rd one of these. Problem is the return stops working (and of course I drive on and on with the signal flashing) - I can just hear the comments - silly old fart ... Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated. Cheers, Brian _______________________________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane, R R 1 Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 CANADA K0H 2Y0 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 14:16:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering References: Sounds familiar. I had the same plug fouling issue - I checked the floats, cleaned the float valves, reset the timing, checked the mixture, full tune up (points, condenser - don't forget that - cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil), added a heat shield, replaced the fuel filter, put an electric fuel pump in-line. Finally pulled the carbs and sent them off to be rebuilt. I tried the normal test of spraying starter fluid around the carburetor shafts, but got no increase in rpms. However there was some wiggle in the shaft so I figured it had to be done anyway. Butterflys were replaced in the rebuild, so that could have been an issue also. The carbs are on their way back to me so I don't know for sure that will cure the problem, but I am hopeful. Bob -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Thomas Sent: Friday, August 15, 2014 1:28 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Sputtering Thanks to all who have replied in regards to my "sputtering" problem. Lots of good ideas and I'll be working through the list. This afternoon, I pulled the plugs and the front two were a nice grey/tan colour while the back two were quite black. Suspect the rear carb (SU) needs to be leaned out a little. Another problem I'm having is that once the car gets up to operating temperature, the idle will not return to 800 rpm unless the gas pedal is goosed. I've been told my throttle shafts are worn and the carbs are likely sucking air around them. Is this the likely cause? The linkage is in good shape and moves freely. ... and while I've got your ears, a couple of parts I've replaced on the 4 have not lasted well - I wonder if others have experienced the same and how they've solved? 1. Radiator air deflector - this fibreboard product does not like to get wet (as it does when driving in the rain). The lip on the radiator side does not appear to be rigid enough to keep the top surface in shape and it sags down 3 or 4 inches. I'm on my second one at present. I've tried spray painting both sides with enamel (to waterproof it) but this has not been overly successful. 2. Turn Signal Switch - I'm on the 3rd one of these. Problem is the return stops working (and of course I drive on and on with the signal flashing) - I can just hear the comments - silly old fart ... Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated. Cheers, Brian >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 21:55:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] Speedi-Sleeve for TR3 ---- William Brewer wrote: > I rebuilt my TR3 engine with a new used crank. I polished up the area of > the crank where the front seal goes I'm confused, Bill. The front seal doesn't ride on the crank at all; instead it rides on the hub for the pulley. I've put a Speedi-sleeve on the hub, no problem. First one I picked out of the catalog by size; but later I noticed that they actually have the TR3 (or maybe it was TR4, same part) listed by application. The application listing was for a shorter sleeve, but the longer one worked fine for me. All done with the crank still in the engine and engine still in the car. It shouldn't be possible to leak oil through the center of the hub, since the whole stack of extension, hub, gear and shims should be clamped firmly against the cheek of the front crank throw by the dog bolt. But it wouldn't hurt to put a thin smear of Hylomar on the back surface of the hub when you install it. I wouldn't use RTV though, as it will get squeezed out of the joint and I don't like strings of RTV running around loose inside the engine. Hylomar will stay put. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 22:03:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering ---- Brian Thomas wrote: > Another problem I'm having is that once the car gets up to operating > temperature, the idle will not return to 800 rpm unless the gas pedal is > goosed. I've been told my throttle shafts are worn and the carbs are likely > sucking air around them. Is this the likely cause? Seems unlikely to me. IMO it's more likely that the worn shafts (and bushings/housings) are letting the throttle plates drag on the bottom of the bore, blocking the throttle from closing fully when it returns slowly. "Goosing" the pedal is like slamming a door that sticks. Sorry, not much help with the other problems. I saturated the fiberboard air deflector (on my former TR3A) with rattle-can paint (which took a lot more coats than I thought it would, 6 or 7 as I recall) and it seemed to hold up well. But I don't drive in the rain much, so doesn't prove anything. I've seen several people fashion replacements from thin aluminum, but of course that doesn't look original (though it does look nice). Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 17:07:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering References: On Fri, Aug 15, 2014 at 1:28 PM, Brian Thomas wrote: > > 1. Radiator air deflector - this fibreboard product does not like to get > wet > (as it does when driving in the rain). The lip on the radiator side does > not > appear to be rigid enough to keep the top surface in shape and it sags > down 3 > or 4 inches. I'm on my second one at present. I've tried spray painting > both > sides with enamel (to waterproof it) but this has not been overly > successful... > I used Thompson's Water Seal on mine and it still looks like new and has kept its shape 13 years later (more than I can say about the driver). Disclaimer - I live in a mostly dry climate though I have driven in the rain many times. Geo >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 17:32:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB I have a 1980 MGB in the shop with the original OPUS electronic ignition. When the car is warm and it gets on an incline, it suddenly quits - no coughing, sputtering, anything. It then fires up after a couple minutes and goes along fine. I'm convinced it is an ignition problem, but clearly not the coil, wires or plugs. Car is in very good shape with no obvious loose wires, grounds, etc. The dist. is effectively 2 black boxes, so I'm at a loss as to how to diagnose it. I can put in a 45D dist, new points, condenser and coil for less than $150, and put it back to 1972 spec, which is probably less than the time it will take to try and diagnose the other unit and at least at that point, I have a system that somebody of reasonable intelligence can sort out. If anybody has any experience with these things, your comments would be greatly appreciated. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 17:47:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB References: <010801cfb8e9$878a1ce0$969e56a0$@cox.net> Don, Good point, but the fact that it cuts out instantly and the fact that if it's jacked up at the front, the fuel pump is still pumping just fine. Loose wires are "plumb bobs" they very much care about inclination if they are shorting against something. I have no idea what is happening inside the black boxes - are they sensitive to gravity when they are failing? Fuel starvation is generally accompanied by some sort of coughing or sputtering or lack of power, not instantaneous death. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 -----Original Message----- From: Don Hiscock [mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com] Sent: Friday, August 15, 2014 5:39 PM To: Jonas Payne Subject: Re: [TR] Not TR - MGB Boy, gravity normally points to fuel flow -- electrons don't care about up and down that much. What makes you sure it's ignition? I'd have guessed fuel delivery. Rgds, Don >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 20:19:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB References: <010801cfb8e9$878a1ce0$969e56a0$@cox.net> <011901cfb8eb$a931eb00$fb95c100$@cox.net> I can't think of the name, but the late cars have an "impact switch" that shuts the car off if it gets too big a jolt, I think it is supposed to stop the fuel pump in case of an accident, now I remember, inertia switch, if that was overly sensitive could cause similar symptoms, I believe it is on the left side driver's footwell, when I had an 80 MGB it slipped off the floor jack once and I thought I had killed it until I found the switch. Greg Lemon >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 21:29:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB References: <010801cfb8e9$878a1ce0$969e56a0$@cox.net> <011901cfb8eb$a931eb00$fb95c100$@cox.net> there is also an mg list; you might try there >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 20:08:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Speedi-Sleeve for TR3 References: <1408130571.57399.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <20140815215520.S5MGM.281694.root@cdptpa-web03> You know, my life is kind of a blur right now and I might not be thinking straight. I put in a harmonic balancer when I rebuilt the engine. So the seal should be riding on the pulley hub and not the crank? That's probably the issue. If so, I might go back in and pull the pulley off and install the original crank pulley that I was using before. Maybe I knocked the seal loose installing the harmonic dampener. I doubt it though. Thanks for your help. -Bill >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2014 20:39:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Sputtering References: I highly recommend: http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?productID=476 Mine fits great and looks great Johnnie '67tr4a >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2014 07:22:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB References: <010801cfb8e9$878a1ce0$969e56a0$@cox.net> My only experience is with Spitfires, but it's my understanding that the late OPUS ignition with the remote control box is nothing but GM ignition module in a black box with Lucas written on it. I think it's pretty simple to open the box and replace the module for about $40. Still, depending on the condition of the distributor (wobble, etc.), it might be best to replace it. You can then put in electronic ignition if desired. One thing to consider is the issue of vacuum advance/retard in your current vs. replacement distributor. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave) Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2014 09:08:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB References: <010801cfb8e9$878a1ce0$969e56a0$@cox.net> It might be something as simple as the ignition switch. What does the tach do at this time? (The MGB has an electronic tach and if the switch is cutting out it should drop to zero immediately even if the engine is still winding down.) Also, does the heater fan and/or wipers cut out at the same time? I had a dodgy switch on my MGB (back in the day) and on my TR6. And I hear GM has had some issues as well. Dave >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2014 06:32:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Speedi-Sleeve for TR3 > You know, my life is kind of a blur right now and I > might not be thinking > straight. I put in a harmonic balancer when I rebuilt the > engine. Could this be the kit that uses an MGB dampener? If so, there is a sleeve required for the seal to ride on. Perhaps the sleeve got left out? P/N TT11322 here http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/837-508.pdf Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2014 06:57:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB > I had a dodgy switch on my MGB (back in the day) and on my TR6. And > I > hear GM has had some issues as well. I find it amusing that the GM problem was actually a deliberate design change, to make the switch easier to turn. Marketing felt that the old switch was too "notchy" and felt cheap. The "issue" is that the weight of big wads of keys can actually turn the modified switch. So it was the marketing requirement that was defective, not the switch. But engineering will still get blamed, as usual. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave) Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2014 12:16:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Not TR - MGB References: In my case (MGB) it was a burnt contact and a slight wiggle of the keys would move the contacts slightly enough move the contacts from a good place to a not so good place. When switches get old stuff happens. A better switch would help but Purchasing makes too many decisions. Dave >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2014 20:39:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] Another fun night - 6pack list Earlier today I received an email from a 6pack list subscriber wondering about that list. Well, turns out it is broken. Actually the first 7 of the alphabetically sorted 67 lists on Team.Net are broken in the same manner. I'm going to try and get it going, I know a number of you here are also on the 6pack list. But at the moment, Python pickles have me perplexed. And speaking of pickled and 6 pack, I may need to make a beer run before the night is through. Sigh. mjb. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jtgayton at icloud.com (Jeffrey Gayton) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 11:24:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Handbrake Grip Greetings. Moss and others specify a screw-on grip for the TR2-3 handbrake and a slide-on for the 4. The thing is, on my 62 TR4, the brake lever has threads. Do I have an incorrect lever or did Triumph continue to use a TR3 lever on early TR4s? The illustration of the handbrake system in my workshop manual does not show threads, though Id feel more comfortable drawing conclusions if it were a photograph. Thanks. -- Jeff >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 11:37:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Handbrake Grip > Greetings. Moss and others specify a screw-on grip for the > TR2-3 handbrake and > a slide-on for the 4. The thing is, on my 62 TR4, the brake lever has > threads. Do I have an incorrect lever or did Triumph continue > to use a TR3 > lever on early TR4s? My TR4 SPC shows both part numbers, so I'm pretty sure at least some TR4 had the earlier threaded lever. Since no change point is given (the comment is there but the space for the number is blank), I suspect that there was no single change point, both types of lever were fitted more or less at random for some number of cars. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 13:59:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Handbrake Grip References: <099C1083-2707-4E08-87A0-4A2F252EAD78@icloud.com> My '58 3A and '62 3B both had a slide on grip. Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Aug 17, 2014, at 1:24 PM, Jeffrey Gayton wrote: Greetings. Moss and others specify a screw-on grip for the TR2-3 handbrake and a slide-on for the 4. The thing is, on my 62 TR4, the brake lever has threads. Do I have an incorrect lever or did Triumph continue to use a TR3 lever on early TR4s? The illustration of the handbrake system in my workshop manual does not show threads, though Id feel more comfortable drawing conclusions if it were a photograph. Thanks. -- Jeff >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 15:12:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A gas tank List: In order to secure a Surrey top, I have ended up with a pile of TR4 parts that I didn't really want or need - some 4 and some 4A. I have a gas tank for which I have no use, but before I list it on eBay, I need to know if it is the one for an early 4 versus the one on the late 4s which (at least according to Moss part numbers) was used on the 4A and 250. What distinguishing marks should I be looking for? Andrew Uprichard >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 13:03:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] 73 TR6 oil filter i have buddies 73 TR6 in may garage that im free to play with. looks nice next to the TR3. seems 1973 was not the year to own. so many differences from 72 and 74. so 2 problems. bought a modern oil filter kit from moss. the existing canister has a hydraulic line that comes out of the canister and goes into the block just below the oil pressure gage sender. of course the moss unit is not set up for this. what is that hydraulic line doing? are all the TR6 like that? water pump. not available for 1973! may be able to use a later model. anyone tried? thanks Frank >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 16:29:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Starting Woes List: I have my old motor reinstalled in my 75 TR6 and ready to rock and roll. All I am getting when turning it over is clicking at the starter relay near the fuse box. Battery registers 12.5 volts which I thought would be enough to turn it over. The starter relay has been working fine for years, so might just switch it out with another. I have both hot wires and ground attached to starter solenoid just as before. Original Lucas starter has worked great all 16 years I have owned the car. The motor turns over by hand with a socket on the front of the crank pulley. Any ideas on diagnosing the problem would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. Jim Henningsen Ocala FL 75 TR6 62 TR4 x2 68 Land Rover Series II >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 17:13:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] tires for TR8's Hey List, I am about to buy some Japanese tires for the Eight only because the 185/70/13 size is pretty thin with current offerings. I would like to have made in USA or at least Euro brands on the Eight. I am willing to alter the size from stock. Any ideas? Thanks, Darrell >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 17:22:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale The following is from the friend of a friend. I dont know anything else about it. Contact info at the end. Allen 1959 TR3A s/n TS5882L , built Aug 10 1959. Body shell # 1060761. Great driver owned by rabid enthusiast. $20,000 Powder Blue, Black leather interior (like new), white top, tonneau and s/c 60 spoke WW, new Coker Michelin replica tires Complete maintenance records from 1978 (4 notebooks) Engine rebuilt in 1978 at 79,600-runs great, mi Present mileage- Included spares: 2 complete engines 2 trannys, rear ends. New, unused top & tonneau Several generators and starters, set of 48 spoke wires, wiring harnesses, ignition parts, instruments, bearing sets, new hydraulic cyls. , new suspension/steering bushings, gasket sets, H2O pumps, carbs, switches and knobs Rebuild kits for everything rebuildable, misc. trim parts, RR fender, Roll bar(anti & over) top bow, Misc. trim parts, fasteners, books and manuals, and memorabilia. Essentially a garage full of TR stuff, a lifetimes worth. Take all you can carry. Car now garaged in Martinsburg WV. Frank P. Herrera 202-210-3315 frank.herrera515 at comcast.net >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 14:33:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] tires for TR8's References: I am running 15" TR8 wheels on my Honda powered Spit. They are Panasport 6" wide and I have Kumho 205/50-R15 tires which are very close in circumference to the 70 series 13" tires that were on the car. That would keep the speedo very close to accuracy. I made that change because there is a dwindling supply of 13" performance tires, since that size is currently only supplied on cheap econo-boxes. Joe >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 15:35:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale References: <23F407B0-A4EA-46C4-AA26-458C72AFE4F3@mgcarclub.com> Allen Hess wrote: > The following is from the friend of a friend. I dont know anything else about > it. Contact info at the end. > Car now garaged in Martinsburg WV. > Frank P. Herrera > 202-210-3315 > frank.herrera515 at comcast.net Name seems familiar, perhaps a former list subscriber? mjb. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack Mc) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 17:56:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] tires for TR8's References: Darrell We have 185/70 13 Vredestein Quatrac3 on Caroline's TR8 - they were on the car last time you saw it at San Rafael They are very good tires - better than some of the 205/60 13s we used to use when you could still get them. Cheers, Jack Mc >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 14:59:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale References: <23F407B0-A4EA-46C4-AA26-458C72AFE4F3@mgcarclub.com> <53F12012.3030902@bradakis.com> On Sun, Aug 17, 2014 at 2:35 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > > Frank P. Herrera > 202-210-3315 > frank.herrera515 at comcast.net > > > Name seems familiar, perhaps a former list subscriber > We have a John Herrera on the list. Geo >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 16:59:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A gas tank References: <007401cfba4f$2e6f42e0$8b4dc8a0$@uprichard.net> I believe the early tank has a vent tube on the top and the later ones don't Greg Lemon >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 18:13:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 / 4A gas tank References: <007401cfba4f$2e6f42e0$8b4dc8a0$@uprichard.net> <3D99E3AEA793436882008D430DD7EC9E@livingroompc> Greg: Thank you and thanks also to the others who confirm this is the only difference. Andrew >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 19:02:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale References: <23F407B0-A4EA-46C4-AA26-458C72AFE4F3@mgcarclub.com> I remember the car, as I recall it was a very nice car. Frank is John's brother. John passed away a few years ago, rest in piece John, a wonderful guy. JVV >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 20:00:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale References: <23F407B0-A4EA-46C4-AA26-458C72AFE4F3@mgcarclub.com> TS5882L wouldn't be a valid commission number for a 1959, or for a TR3A at all. Misprint? George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com 1957 Triumph TR3 1961 Jaguar Mark 2 1975 Triumph TR6 1997 Land Rover Discovery >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 20:00:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] 73 TR6 oil filter That is not what my 73 TR6 filter looks like. And yes, only the later water pump with the dual groove pulley is available. It functions just fine. T-Mobile. Americabs First Nationwide 4G Network Frank Fisher wrote: >i have buddies 73 TR6 in may garage that im free to play with. looks nice next to the TR3. >seems 1973 was not the year to own. so many differences from 72 and 74. >so 2 problems. > >bought a modern oil filter kit from moss. the existing canister has a hydraulic line that comes out of the canister and goes into the block just below the oil pressure gage sender. of course the moss unit is not set up for this. what is that hydraulic line doing? are all the TR6 like that? > >water pump. not available for 1973! may be able to use a later model. anyone tried? > >thanks >Frank >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 20:54:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Starting Woes References: <000401cfba59$ee4e7a90$caeb6fb0$@gmail.com> Two things: Starter Relay Ground Strap to the engine (from drivers side firewall to the engine). On Sunday, August 17, 2014 3:31 PM, James Henningsen wrote: List: I have my old motor reinstalled in my 75 TR6 and ready to rock and roll. All I am getting when turning it over is clicking at the starter relay near the fuse box. Battery registers 12.5 volts which I thought would be enough to turn it over. The starter relay has been working fine for years, so might just switch it out with another. I have both hot wires and ground attached to starter solenoid just as before. Original Lucas starter has worked great all 16 years I have owned the car. The motor turns over by hand with a socket on the front of the crank pulley. Any ideas on diagnosing the problem would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. Jim Henningsen Ocala FL 75 TR6 62 TR4 x2 68 Land Rover Series II >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 06:04:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale References: <23F407B0-A4EA-46C4-AA26-458C72AFE4F3@mgcarclub.com>, Agree completely, John was a great guy. Not sure this link will make it through, but here is a picture from a couple of years ago at Watkins Glen where I was able to visit with him. http://www.tr-register.com.au/Files/powderblue/powderblueherreraj.htm Randy > I remember the car, as I recall it was a very nice car. Frank is John's > brother. John passed away a few years ago, rest in piece John, a wonderful > guy. > JVV >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 15:27:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale References: On Aug 17, 2014, at 8:00 PM, George Richardson wrote: > > TS5882L wouldn't be a valid commission number for a 1959, or for a TR3A > at all. Misprint? > > George Richardson TS56882L Keith Stewart keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jtgayton at icloud.com (Jeffrey Gayton) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 15:07:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Handbrake Grip Thanks to all those who replied to my email about the threads on my TR4 handbrake lever. Thanks especially to Randall. It never occurred to me to use the Stanpart catalog like that. I had lots of fun going it looking for part changes that aren't mentioned in Piggott's book. -- Jeff >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 19:41:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] stator tube and boss hi, all. apparently the plastic boss on the top of the stator tube for my tr3 needs repair/replacement. recommendations? >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 1:18:41 +0000 Subject: [TR] stator tube and boss ---- dave n wrote: > hi, all. apparently the plastic boss on the top of the stator tube for my tr3 > needs repair/replacement. Uh, what plastic boss? The stator tube is all steel, the top just has a slot that engages some notches inside the control head assembly. Or are you talking about the control head assembly itself? Repair is pretty much limited to cleaning and lubrication, but mine does seem to need that every 5-10 years. Replacements are available from the usual suspects. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 21:30:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] stator tube and boss References: Can you identify the part on the Moss Motors page? http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29140 I am not remembering a plastic portion of the stator tube. Greg G. Osseo, MN > hi, all. apparently the plastic boss on the top of the stator tube for my > tr3 > needs repair/replacement. > > recommendations? >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2014 21:30:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] stator tube and boss References: <20140819011841.SSKJF.354825.root@cdptpa-web04> sorry for the terminology mixup - itbs the control head. that fits on the stator tube . . . .moss 667-480 is there someone who refurbishes them? >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 08:20:57 +0100 Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change? This is a strictly non-political post but to be forewarned is to be forearmed:) For those of you whose clubs feature the Union Flag (Union Jack) in their imageries, on 14th September the citizens of Scotland are going to vote in a referendum (yawn) on whether to seek independence from England and Wales - or not. If they win, this means the 'Saltire' - the Scottish flag with a blue background and diagonal white crosses would strictly no longer be part of the wider and better known Union flag. Knowing how many on this list strive for keeping things accurate, retaining the Union flag image on club promotionals could leave y'all seriously out of date :) If nothing else, a club committee debate might be in order here to review the opportunities over a few six packs and masquerade it all as a tech session. Jonmac (Descended from a nasty gang of Scottish cattle rustlers and wife traders) >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 07:39:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change? References: <001501cfbb7e$1f351680$5d9f4380$@ukpips.org.uk> I'm as much a Scot as the next fellow, and a big fan of independence, but... It seems to me that to be historically accurate, we need to fly the flag that was in place when our cars were built, Thus, I won't have to change the fender decals on my TR6. On second thought, perhaps we should have another uisge and discuss it further? Jeff Scarbrough - but my mother was a Gordon Corrosion Acres, Ga. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 08:04:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change? References: <001501cfbb7e$1f351680$5d9f4380$@ukpips.org.uk> And when Northern Ireland breaks away you will be stuck with the old red on white English flag. How drab. Another icon bites the dust. Dave Clan Matheson Chairman, Piping and Drumming Competition St. Louis Scottish Games and Cultural Festival. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 06:22:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change? References: <001501cfbb7e$1f351680$5d9f4380$@ukpips.org.uk> On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 12:20 AM, John Macartney < john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote: > Knowing how many on this list strive for keeping things accurate, > retaining the Union flag image on club > promotionals could leave y'all seriously out of date :) Perfect for me, 'seriously out of date' pretty much sums up my position on things automotive. Geo >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack Mc) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 09:23:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change? References: <001501cfbb7e$1f351680$5d9f4380$@ukpips.org.uk> My ancestors left Scotland during some unpleasantness called the highland clearance - or something like that. I atone to my ancestors for owning English cars by keeping a Union Jack doormat at the front door for all guests to wipe their feet on. If the Cross of St Andrews is removed from the Union Jack, I'll obviously want to get a new door mat. Tongue firmly in cheek, Jack Mc >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: pethier7 at gmail.com (Philip Ethier) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 08:55:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change? References: <001501cfbb7e$1f351680$5d9f4380$@ukpips.org.uk> Either way, I will still fly my Red Ensign when the mood strikes me. I care not which way Scotland votes. In the case of Ireland, though, 26+6=1 -- pethier at comcast.net still works also Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl http://www.mnautox.com >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 15:00:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] Whitewall Radial 165R15 Hi, The bias-ply "Universal" wide whitewall tires on our 1956 TR3 still look great but are 20+ years old and need to be replaced. I'm inclined to go with radials this time around and see three wide white radials offerings on the COKER tire site: - Coker @ $160 - B F Goodrich @ $194 - American Classic @ $192 I'm inclined to go with the Coker version. Anyone have experience with any of these or maybe another 165R15 from another vendor? I'm running Dayton wire wheels so will be using tubes. Thanks in advance for your suggestions. Cheers, Brian _______________________________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-mail: 92 Wyona Lane, R R 1 Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 CANADA K0H 2Y0 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 09:04:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] GT6's Morning all, I have a pair of GT6's for selling.. One is a '67 builder. The other a mostly complete GT6+ ('68) They are mostly rust free save the usual rocker issues (pretty easy to fix) Both have clear AZ titles. The GT6+ is worth more, but will sell for $1500 (you fetch it) The '67 goes for $500 a bit more if you want the engine/gearbox, which is currently out.. again you fetch it. Have a limited number of pictures. Send requests off Mark's already overburdened server.. My contact info is below.. dave -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 08:23:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change? References: <001501cfbb7e$1f351680$5d9f4380$@ukpips.org.uk> So if Scotland votes to become free, will that mean that the British army will withdraw from occupying Castle Edinburgh? I don't have a horse in this race but I much prefer the Lion Rampant royal standard to the Cross of St Andrew. It has more character. TeriAnn >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 10:31:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Whitewall Radial 165R15 References: I went with Diamondback white walls, they used a Nankang tire. Very satisfied. www.dbtires.com NFI, Bill N >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 11:45:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Prepare for a change? References: <001501cfbb7e$1f351680$5d9f4380$@ukpips.org.uk> <53F36C04.2080106@gmail.com> And from the deep water lochs where they park their subs when not at sea. And then the arguments begins as to who, exactly, has rights to the North Sea oil. The Lion Rampant is a very iconic flag, as well, and quite attractive. As such it is frequently used in inappropriate situations. For example, the Lion Rampant is to be flown only when the Queen is in residence. If Scotland goes independent the queen may no longer summer in Balmoral Castle and fly the Lion rampant. Perhaps she can summer in Caerphilly Castle and fly the Welsh Dragon, another striking flag. ;-) Dave >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 12:50:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission 1971 TR6 non-overdrive transmission. Driving back to work last Friday from lunch, about 1/2-mile out rolled up to a stop sign in neutral. Stopped, went to put into first, would not go. would not go into 2nd, 3rd or 4th. Let the clutch out in neutral, revved the motor,it went into 1st, shifted to 2nd OK. Got back to work. End of the day, drove home. The first time I shifted into 2nd, got a slight grind, back to neutral, tried again, went no problem. Drove home with no problems.One time hang up or something serious?Thoughts..Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 15:07:06 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission Peter, been there myself on my 72 TR6. Check master and slave and see if they are leaking. If not, try putting the bar in the other hole available and see if it gets better. If it does, you may be like me and headed for a transmission rebuild. I went through several masters and slaves, and rode in the wrong hole for 2 years before I had to take the plunge. Just my thoughts. Craig On 08/19/14, Peter Arakelian wrote: 1971 TR6 non-overdrive transmission. Driving back to work last Friday from lunch, about 1/2-mile out rolled up to a stop sign in neutral. Stopped, went to put into first, would not go. would not go into 2nd, 3rd or 4th. Let the clutch out in neutral, revved the motor,it went into 1st, shifted to 2nd OK. Got back to work. End of the day, drove home. The first time I shifted into 2nd, got a slight grind, back to neutral, tried again, went no problem. Drove home with no problems.One time hang up or something serious?Thoughts..Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 13:07:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission References: Peter - As a starting point, a bleed of the clutch hydraulics might be in order. If there is a bit of air in there repeated pumping can compress it enough that the system will work for awhile. Could be other things, but a bleed takes only minutes. Geo >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 18:27:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission References: Broken clevis pin would be a place to look. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 20:02:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission References: <87B04D8BE91748A18FE610D1C204A4C2@VlackTK121647> +1 on the broken fork pin. I have seen several and the reduce effective travel dramatically. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 20:28:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission References: <87B04D8BE91748A18FE610D1C204A4C2@VlackTK121647> I agree with the others, would be odd if the tranny wouldn't go into all four gears suddenly, then would again because of something internal, plus the external issues are easier to check (although you would have to pull the tranny to address the clutch fork pin, and I think the external issues are also more likely. If it happens again check reverse (carefully) if it starts to crunch your clutch is not disengaging, pointing to back to hydraulics or the dreaded clutch fork pin. Greg Lemon TR250 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 18:36:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr6 transmission Gotten several responses centering around the clutch not releasing - bleed the cylinders, change holes. The clutch works. I can press the pedal down with car in first, or any gear, foot off the brake and it will not move. driving down the road, I can press pedal and revs go up well before end of travel. The clutch is disengaging the trans from motor. Any other thoughts? Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 18:59:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission References: Sounds like it's time to call Herman Van Den Aker :) >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: skip47 at gbis.com (Skip Gurnee) Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 19:02:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr6 transmission References: Drain the transmission oil through a sieve and examine what comes out besides oil. Stick your finger in the hole to feel what's loose and too big to drip out. Skip Gurnee 64 TR4, 66TR4A -----Original Message----- From: Peter Arakelian Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2014 6:36 PM To: Listers Subject: [TR] tr6 transmission Gotten several responses centering around the clutch not releasing - bleed the cylinders, change holes. The clutch works. I can press the pedal down with car in first, or any gear, foot off the brake and it will not move. driving down the road, I can press pedal and revs go up well before end of travel. The clutch is disengaging the trans from motor. Any other thoughts? Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 05:14:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission References: Disclaimer: I know nothing...nothing...about transmissions. So of course I want to chime in. Am I correct that each gear on a six has its own individual synchro? If so, would they be apt to all go out at once? I'm wondering about the linkage from the shift lever to the box. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire >The first time I shifted into >2nd, got a slight grind, back to neutral, tried again, went no problem. Drove >home with no problems.One time hang up or something serious?Thoughts >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 03:02:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission References: It may be that the bronze top hat bushing for second gear came apart. mjb. ps: 6pack list is working again, which I may have mentioned already. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 10:12:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission References: Sounds to me like the clutch disk is sticking to the flywheel. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 09:20:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission References: Or the input shaft is binding on the pilot bushing. My son has a 98 Ford pickup that had similar behavior, turned out to be a failed pilot bearing. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net) Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 12:22:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission The next time that it happens turn off the engine with the pedal still depressed and see if it will go into gear then. That should tell you whether it is a clutch or transmission issue. My Stag does this now and then and my opinion is it is an oil soaked clutch plate. The rear main is damaged. Every now and then particularlywhen the motor is cold it will exhibit similar behavior. It will go into 4th with a bit of effort and then once you get it rolling at all it is easy enough to get into first gear. It's just the oil holding the plate to the flywheel. I would tend to think that if it was a broken pivot pin you would have the problem all the time rather than intermittently. The same for low fluid or defective hydraulics. Of interest I have seen a worn master that when the pedal was moved quickly would pull air into the system through the worn seals. Made it almost impossible to bleed. Did the clutch pedal feel any different when it happened? Edward Hamer PetalumaCA >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 15:00:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission References: <53F4F570.6000603@att.net> I will interject a small comment here. my daughter's 350Z occasionally (as in once or twice every couple of hours of driving) would simply refuse to go into gear. work with it a minute or two, and then it would work just fine. also, very intermittantly, the clutch pedal would not come back up. she researched it, and found it was likely in the hydraulics. we took it to a mechanic, and he also said it sounded like an issue with the master clutch cylinder. he of course could not get it to misbehave. I had him replace the slave at the same time, and the problem has gone away. maybe that's just a nissan, or maybe its relevant, I don't know. -----Original Message----- From: hdrider570 at att.net Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2014 2:22 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission The next time that it happens turn off the engine with the pedal still depressed and see if it will go into gear then. That should tell you whether it is a clutch or transmission issue. My Stag does this now and then and my opinion is it is an oil soaked clutch plate. The rear main is damaged. Every now and then particularlywhen the motor is cold it will exhibit similar behavior. It will go into 4th with a bit of effort and then once you get it rolling at all it is easy enough to get into first gear. It's just the oil holding the plate to the flywheel. I would tend to think that if it was a broken pivot pin you would have the problem all the time rather than intermittently. The same for low fluid or defective hydraulics. Of interest I have seen a worn master that when the pedal was moved quickly would pull air into the system through the worn seals. Made it almost impossible to bleed. Did the clutch pedal feel any different when it happened? >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian) Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2014 11:12:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission Want to thank all for suggestions, comments. The problem is not clutch related. The pedal has not changed in feel or travel, the trans can be heard to slow to a stop when in neutral and the clutch is depressed. I spoke with John at Quantum Mechanics in CT, they do a lot of British trannies including TR6. His thoughts were the problem was in the top cover. Perhaps the fork or detent got hung up when I shifted out of 2nd to neutral when rolling up to the stop. When I revved in neutral, it was enough to realign or jog the hanging bit. All was well driving home last Friday. We'll see how it is tomorrow when I drive in to work. Peter >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 09:46:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption When I bought my TR4 back in 2010 it came with a TriuimphTune alloy valve cover. While nice looking, the fact that it has no baffle or screen over the breather tube going to the carburetors causes oil consumption to increase. I've been doing some google searching and have come up with several possible solutions on how to create a baffle. One involves epoxying an aluminum baffle over the opening, another uses some wire and a small aluminum plate held in place over the hole. Still another was adding a small baffle over the opening by riveting it in place with solid aluminum rivets. And finally someone apparently has wrapped a screen over the discharge end of the tube and and then pushed the hose over it. I'm sort of partial to the aluminum plate and rivet idea although I'm not keen on drilling holes in the valve cover. However I might try the screen method since it would be a quick and dirty test. Has anyone tried a different solution to what I've listed? If so I'd love to hear about it. Thanks, Brad >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 09:48:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4 My 63 TR4 came with the starter solenoid (round with pushbutton) mounted on the front of the firewall near the rear carburetor. It currently only has one screw holding it in place and it just seems like an odd location. Could someone possibly send me a picture of where the solenoid is actually supposed to be installed? Thanks! Brad >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (cliff_hansen at earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 09:53:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4 Sent. Passengers side on battery hold down. Cliff ---- Original Message ---- From: "Brad Kahler" Date: 08/22/14 9:48 AM To: "Triumphs" Cc: Sub: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4 My 63 TR4 came with the starter solenoid (round with pushbutton) mounted on the front of the firewall near the rear carburetor. It currently only has one screw holding it in place and it just seems like an odd location. Could someone possibly send me a picture of where the solenoid is actually supposed to be installed? Thanks! Brad >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 10:01:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4 References: <1993387505.48384.1408715625081.JavaMail.portal@wapmail-coots.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Wow! three responses in five minutes, two with pictures! I believe I have enough information to work with now. Thanks!!! Brad >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 08:19:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption References: It's all about crankcase ventilation. If you have excess discharge issues, then you likely have other issues. Worn rings, worn rocker bushing, overfilled sump, aux. top end oiler kit.. In other words, I find it hard to believe it's the design of the cover outlet.. Dave On 8/22/2014 7:46 AM, Brad Kahler wrote: > When I bought my TR4 back in 2010 it came with a TriuimphTune alloy valve > cover. While nice looking, the fact that it has no baffle or screen over > the breather tube going to the carburetors causes oil consumption to > increase. I've been doing some google searching and have come up with > several possible solutions on how to create a baffle. > > One involves epoxying an aluminum baffle over the opening, another uses > some wire and a small aluminum plate held in place over the hole. Still > another was adding a small baffle over the opening by riveting it in place > with solid aluminum rivets. And finally someone apparently has wrapped a > screen over the discharge end of the tube and and then pushed the hose over > it. > > I'm sort of partial to the aluminum plate and rivet idea although I'm not > keen on drilling holes in the valve cover. However I might try the screen > method since it would be a quick and dirty test. > > Has anyone tried a different solution to what I've listed? If so I'd love > to hear about it. > > Thanks, > > Brad -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 08:15:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4 References: It is my understanding that originally the TR4 solenoid was mounted about where you describe and then (at some point) was moved up out of there because of possible effects of heat. here's a pic of the solenoid in that spot: http://goo.gl/Su3udD I have experienced no problems with having it in that location. I do not know the change point offhand. Geo >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 11:21:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4 References: There was a Service Bulletin on this topic, T-64-32, a copy of which may be found at It involved moving the solenoid to the right to avoid possible seepage from the rear carburetor. This may or may not be relevant to your particular car? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 08:22:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption References: If your TR4 lacks the crankcase breather tube that may be at the root of your problem. That tube was deleted (and the hole plugged) at some point in TR4 production. About the same time the oil fill cap went from the breather style to a sealed cap. Alas, that little spout and hoses to the air cleaners do not seem up to the task of relieving crankcase pressure - at least that was the case on my engine. As a result, mine was seeping oil out of every crack & pore. I installed an original crankcase breather tube (like a TR3) and that took care of everything (except a minor real seal leak). Geo On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 6:46 AM, Brad Kahler wrote: > When I bought my TR4 back in 2010 it came with a TriuimphTune alloy valve > cover. While nice looking, the fact that it has no baffle or screen over > the breather tube going to the carburetors causes oil consumption to > increase. I've been doing some google searching and have come up with > several possible solutions on how to create a baffle. > > One involves epoxying an aluminum baffle over the opening, another uses > some wire and a small aluminum plate held in place over the hole. Still > another was adding a small baffle over the opening by riveting it in place > with solid aluminum rivets. And finally someone apparently has wrapped a > screen over the discharge end of the tube and and then pushed the hose over > it. > > I'm sort of partial to the aluminum plate and rivet idea although I'm not > keen on drilling holes in the valve cover. However I might try the screen > method since it would be a quick and dirty test. > > Has anyone tried a different solution to what I've listed? If so I'd love > to hear about it. > > Thanks, > > Brad >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 13:08:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption References: <53F7517C.2020903@porterscustom.com> None of the issues you mentioned are present. The lack of baffle on the alloy covers is a well documented problem and one that I am experiencing. I'm just looking for the easiest and cleanest method of keeping the oil spray out of the valve cover breather tube. On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 10:19 AM, David Porter wrote: > It's all about crankcase ventilation. If you have excess discharge issues, > then you likely have other issues. > Worn rings, worn rocker bushing, overfilled sump, aux. top end oiler kit.. > In other words, I find it hard to believe it's the design of the cover > outlet.. > Dave > On 8/22/2014 7:46 AM, Brad Kahler wrote: > >> When I bought my TR4 back in 2010 it came with a TriuimphTune alloy valve >> cover. While nice looking, the fact that it has no baffle or screen over >> the breather tube going to the carburetors causes oil consumption to >> increase. I've been doing some google searching and have come up with >> several possible solutions on how to create a baffle. >> >> One involves epoxying an aluminum baffle over the opening, another uses >> some wire and a small aluminum plate held in place over the hole. Still >> another was adding a small baffle over the opening by riveting it in place >> with solid aluminum rivets. And finally someone apparently has wrapped a >> screen over the discharge end of the tube and and then pushed the hose >> over >> it. >> >> I'm sort of partial to the aluminum plate and rivet idea although I'm not >> keen on drilling holes in the valve cover. However I might try the screen >> method since it would be a quick and dirty test. >> >> Has anyone tried a different solution to what I've listed? If so I'd love >> to hear about it. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Brad >> >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 13:11:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption References: Geo, Not sure when Triumph switched but My TR4 has the road draft tube. I'm fairly certain my problem is just one in which the oil being splashed into the breather tube on the valve cover. Brad On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 11:22 AM, Geo Hahn wrote: > If your TR4 lacks the crankcase breather tube that may be at the root of > your problem. > > That tube was deleted (and the hole plugged) at some point in TR4 > production. About the same time the oil fill cap went from the breather > style to a sealed cap. > > Alas, that little spout and hoses to the air cleaners do not seem up to > the task of relieving crankcase pressure - at least that was the case on my > engine. As a result, mine was seeping oil out of every crack & pore. > > I installed an original crankcase breather tube (like a TR3) and that took > care of everything (except a minor real seal leak). > > Geo > >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 13:26:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4 References: <8D18C33E08B28CB-63CC-14F9E@webmail-m248.sysops.aol.com> Andy, I'm betting you remembered exactly where to find that service bulletin :) It is relevant to my car but for the moment I'll leave it in the original location. I never realized that mine had a round golf cart style of solenoid which also had a different spacing than the lucas solenoid. On top of that some po used a sheet metal screw in the top hole and the solenoid was covering the bottom hole. I have a used lucas solenoid that I am going to try and I was also successful in retapping the original mounting holes. Now I just hope that old solenoid is still good! I find it interesting that Triumph didn't want to pay the service shop anything extra to move the solenoid 4" to the right. I wonder if that logic would work with current factory service shops. Thanks! Brad >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 10:43:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4 References: <8D18C33E08B28CB-63CC-14F9E@webmail-m248.sysops.aol.com> Whatever you end up doing, bear in mind that the solenoid needs to be grounded by its mounting. If the body/bracket is not getting a good ground it will not operate. Geo >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: michaelmarr5258 at comcast.net (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 17:46:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Project for sale Folks: After much careful rumination (no, that is not Carry Nation's alcoholic brother), I have decided that I will probably never finish the restoration of my TR3A project and I am, therefore, offering the whole shebang for sale. It consists of: 1) The car - complete but in the very early stages of disassembly. However, by simply putting the wheels back on it can be rolled onto a trailer. It is a post 60000 car and needs new floors on both sides, new fender patch panels and some repair work to the vertical front panels of the rear seat/parcel shelf. Of course it will need new paint. The frame appears to be solid and I rebuilt the front suspension and installed new rear shocks many years (but only few thousand miles) ago. 2) The following additional parts: a) a new set of 2.2 liter liners and pistons b) a reground crankshaft with crank and rod bearings c) a replacement camshaft of unknown lift or duration. I was told that it might be a "mild street" cam d) a lightened flywheel, sold to me by Joe Alexander e) a 4 into 2 into 1 exhaust manifold f) A solid hood (post 60000) g) a solid front apron, also post 60000 h) An overdrive gearbox, supposedly in working condition, although I have never installed it so I cannot say i) Two extra sets of wire wheels (used). These are both 60 spoke, while the wheels on the car are the original 48 spoke j) a few other odds and ends I think the whole package is worth maybe $5,000 to $6,000 and would be willing to consider offers in that range. I believe the additional parts are probably worth half of that amount, alone. I have no interest in selling parts of the package - it is all or nothing. The car is in Plainfield, IL, and if you are interested in looking at it, please contact me directly at michaelmarr5258 at comcast.net Mike >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 12:53:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption mail.com> References: I can't comment on which solution is the best from any personal experience, but I'd be inclined to epoxy something to the inside of the cover instead of riveting it mainly for cosmetic reasons (no holes to drill in the cover). I'd think about likely paths for oil to be slung and look to block those with the baffle. Tony Drews >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 13:27:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] new overdrive just landed here. its got three switches on top; Ibm not sure which is which. I think I know which is the overdrive switch, and then one is the backup, and the other is a cutout that keeps it from engaging in first and reverse? http://www.ranteer.com/misc1/ >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 14:31:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption References: On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 9:46 AM, Brad Kahler wrote: > Has anyone tried a different solution to what I've listed? If so I'd love > to hear about it. I don't have any experience, but I'm thinking a properly shaped piece of fairly springy metal could be wedged in right under the hole. If you wanted to get fancy, you could slightly notch the inside of the cover to provide a sort of ledge or niche that the edges of the metal could spring into for added security. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 17:09:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption References: Another alternative would be to install a catch tank between the valve cover tube and the PCV valve? The new MOSS catalog has one for about $130.00. Dave Connitt >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 22:40:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] new overdrive ---- dave n wrote: > just landed here. its got three switches on top; Ibm not sure which is > which. I think I know which is the overdrive switch, and then one is the > backup, and the other is a cutout that keeps it from engaging in first and > reverse? A-type OD uses two lockout switches. Although they are called "lockout", in fact they enable the OD when they are closed. One switch closes when in 3rd or 4th gear, the other switch closes in 2nd gear. Making OD available in 2nd, 3rd and 4th. The switch nearest the left side is the backup light switch. The one nearest the right side is the 2nd gear OD switch. The one in the middle is for 3rd & 4th. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 20:32:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spin on Oil Filter Leak List: The old original motor (80k miles and tired) is back in the TR6 and purring like a kitten. I am amazed after 11 years in a box with regular oil squirts and turning the crank that the motor started up. Ok, there is a bit of smoke but better smoke out the exhaust than engine bits. My starting issue was due to a bad starter relay. Forgot that I had Dan Masters book and it was a great help in diagnosing a non-functioning starter. It has been a joy (I think) of re-learning how to identify top dead center on the compression stroke and getting the firing order correct with the plug wires and dizzy. After 11 years there was no gap when I checked the valve clearance, so rest all of those. Here is my question. I have a spin on oil filter unit and put in a new rubber seal before mounting to block. I am getting a pretty good leak between the block and adapter seal. I tightened a bit more but still leaking. Is there a trick to getting this unit to not leak. I had it on my previous motor without a leak. Do I need some sealant? One step closer to getting the car to VTR! Jim Henningsen Ocala FL 62 TR4 x2 75 TR6 68 Land Rover 88 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 21:00:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption References: <9B1ACBD62FCB44C9834C0B59DA5BC68B@DaveLaptop> and the rice rocket catalog and Ebay in the 30-40 range. ptegler On 8/22/2014 5:09 PM, Dave Connitt wrote: > Another alternative would be to install a catch tank between the valve > cover tube and the PCV valve? The new MOSS catalog has one for about > $130.00. > Dave Connitt >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 09:47:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spin on Oil Filter Leak References: <201408230318592.SM1125270@MAIL2> Mike and others. Thanks for the replies. I am going to drain the oil today and recheck and test as described. I did remove old seal from block. Jim Henningsen From:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 12:15:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starter solenoid mounting location on a TR4 References: <8D18C33E08B28CB-63CC-14F9E@webmail-m248.sysops.aol.com> I must have gotten a good ground as the new (old!) solenoid works like a charm. Thanks! Brad On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 1:43 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: > Whatever you end up doing, bear in mind that the solenoid needs to be > grounded by its mounting. If the body/bracket is not getting a good ground > it will not operate. > > Geo >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 12:20:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alloy valve cover oil consumption References: <20140822175332.9D3B025857E8@autox.team.net> Tony & All, Working from a tip from Irv I went out and bought a PCV valve that I was able to add into the line from the valve cover to the carburetor flame arrestor. My TR4 has the mid production emissions setup and my first test drive with the PCV valve installed was good. What I found interesting was my idle RPM dropped from 800 to 600 once I installed the PCV valve. I'd rather not install a catch tank as I would think if everything is working right the oil should now stay in the valve cover instead of getting sucked into the carburetors. Weather permitting I'm going to take a drive this afternoon and then see what things look like. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions! Brad >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 15:17:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] clutch throwout bearing issue put in the flywheel: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN1184.JPG put in the clutch: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN1187.JPG put in the pressure plate: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN1190.JPG here is the tranny: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN1192.JPG but the throwout bearing seems to just sit, off center. http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN1191.JPG we carefully bagged, labeled, and saved all the parts when we took it apart. here is the bentley manual: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/Bentley.jpg and the moss page: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32782 what am I missing? or what is wrong? >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2014 17:38:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] clutch throwout bearing issue References: <8321EFC154B9490F90917D1EB29D916B@Ranteer.local> <81849DB4-27FC-41A6-9D93-54CA8F4BF609@mac.com> mystery solved. I am missing the throwout bearing carrier. it is still attached to the old bearing. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 07:35:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A overdrive transmission I am restoring a TR4A. Before I put the OD 4-speed transmission back in the car, I thought I would check it out for functionality. I put a 1/2" drill driver on the input shaft and turned it. Engaged each gear and saw different RPM and reverse out the back without any scary noises. So the transmission seems OK. I put 12 volts through the solenoid circuit and saw the solenoid move the arm at the appropriate second, third, and 4 gear positions. But when I spun the input of the trans, I didn't observe any change in the output of the drive shaft when the solenoid was engaged or disengaged. Just as I sat down to write this note I figured out that I need to check the oil level. Perhaps even drain and replace the oil. I haven't looked at my book yet for recommended oil. 90 weight? Is there anything else I can check or do prior to installing other than getting someone to rebuild it? (Presuming some addition of oil gets the OD to engage.) Creig Creig Houghtlaing 314-401-7817 St. Louis Triumph Owners Association www.sltoa.org >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 06:45:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A overdrive transmission > I haven't > looked at my book yet for recommended oil. 90 weight? 90 weight GL4 was the factory recommendation (or 80 if you consistently drive in below freezing weather). Lots of folks will tell you 30 weight motor oil, and Triumph used to recommend that. But they changed around 1960 to the GL4, so they must have had some reason. Rumor has it that the GL4 protects the gearbox better and reduced warranty returns. GL4 is getting hard to find at FLAPS. Personally, I use Redline MT-90, which is GL4 but also is designed specifically for manual transmissions. OD operation seemed about the same, but it definitely had a positive effect on shifting the main box. > Is there anything else I can check or do prior to installing > other than > getting someone to rebuild it? At a minimum, I'd get a pressure gauge and check the pressure, even if it does engage with more oil. The accumulator spring seems to get weak with age, leading to low pressure, which can allow the OD to slip under maximum load. Jay Holecamp sells a pressure gauge with the funky adapter (replaces the plug above the operating valve) for a reasonable price http://www.geocities.ws/jholekamp/ Or you can build your own. Probably also worth draining the old oil, even if it doesn't have very many miles on it. Check the oil for swarf, and clean the magnets and pickup screen inside the OD drain plug. I recommend building or buying a special wrench for the plug; hitting the ears with a punch & BFH can distort it and lead to leaks that are hard to fix. Here's my home-made one http://goo.gl/cd21oS In the background of that photo, you can see my previous attempt, just a bar of steel with two bolts at the right spacing and a little filing on the sides of the bolts. It worked well enough, but was tough maneuvering under my TR3A, so I made the one in the foreground (out of a cheap socket sourced from eBay). Or I believe Moss sells a tool. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 08:47:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A overdrive transmission References: Creig, always an interesting topic with differing opinions, factory recommends 90w gear oil, however, most 90w off the shelves these days is GL5 spec, you want GL4, which you can still get at NAPA stores I think, most don't stock it but can get it. The GL5 has additives that can cause corrosion in the brass components of the gearbox. Craig Esposito at Quantum mechanics recommends a straight 30w non detergent motor oil, cheap and usually available at the chain stores or tractor/farm supply stores Many swear by Redline synthetic MT90, I haven't tried it, but have also read that it will find any leaks you have in the tranny or overdrive and pour out faster than conventional oil, those are expensive leaks, so I have never tried it. Some people run multi-weight motor oils, though this article recommends against it. I have tried all except the MT90, in my opinion both the gear oil and non-detergent motor oil work fine, and I detected no noticeable difference in shift quality or overdrive engagement, I also used to put in multi-weight motor oil, I remember my old TR4A would drop out of O/D on a long run on a hot day sometimes, and am wondering if it was from cavitation or foaming as described in this article: http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm (scroll down). I think I may have been running multi-weight 20w-50 at the time. Greg Lemon >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 07:01:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A overdrive transmission > I think I may have been running multi-weight > 20w-50 at the time. If you do want to try 20W50, both Ken Gillanders and Herman van den Akker specifically recommend Valvoline Racing oil. It is low detergent plus has anti-foaming and ZDDP additives. I ran it for several years, and had no trouble that I associated with the oil. (I believe the slipping in 2nd gear was due to low oil pressure.) Valvoline has changed hands and expanded their "Racing oil" line since then, I assume the non-synthetic, "Not Street Legal" stuff is the equivalent of what they sold then. "VR1" apparently has more detergent in it, to meet API requirements. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 15:13:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tie down straps I'm looking to replace my long used (and abused) car tie down straps. Anyone use the thru the wheel type like the ones in this auction? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290968930667 Thanks, Brad >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: lee.k.janssen at gmail.com (Lee Janssen) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 16:25:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] Rip Van Winkle Update We just fired up the MGB that has been sitting for 30 years - took about an hour to change oil, filter, replace plugs, jump the double 6 volt battery and get the engine running. Part of the delay was the SLOW speed that the engine was turning over. Once the engine was running we very quickly determined that the water pump was seized which generated a whole lot of squealing and white smoke. Needless to say we didn't run it for very long. Lee Denver CO >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: pethier7 at gmail.com (Philip Ethier) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 18:09:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tie down straps References: I prefer going over the tires. Does not put holddown stress on the suspension or frame. Each tire is independently attached to the trailer, with no contact to any painted or metal parts of the car. On Sun, Aug 24, 2014 at 2:13 PM, Brad Kahler wrote: > I'm looking to replace my long used (and abused) car tie down straps. > Anyone use the thru the wheel type like the ones in this auction? > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290968930667 > > Thanks, > > Brad -- pethier at comcast.net still works also Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl http://www.mnautox.com >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: lee.k.janssen at gmail.com (Lee Janssen) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 18:30:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lights-on ignition-off alarm Current cars have an alarm when you leave you lights on when the ignition is off. Does anyone know of an aftermarket device that will perform this function for a TR6? The Rocky Mountain Triumph club had a wonderful drive from Golden to Leadville this weekend and twice I had forgotten to turn my lights off. Side Note: 5 pounds of boost is a wonderful thing at 11000+ feet - 70 mph in 5th gear! Thanks Much in advance. Lee Janssen Denver CO >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 18:14:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lights-on ignition-off alarm References: Does the TR6 have an 'ignition on, seatbelt not fastened' warning buzzer? Or an 'key in ignition, door open warning buzzer'? Either of those set-ups are commonly hacked to make a 'your lights are still on' buzzer. Geo On Sun, Aug 24, 2014 at 5:30 PM, Lee Janssen wrote: > Current cars have an alarm when you leave you lights on when the ignition > is off. > Does anyone know of an aftermarket device that will perform this function > for a TR6? > The Rocky Mountain Triumph club had a wonderful drive from Golden to > Leadville this weekend and twice I had forgotten to turn my lights off. > > Side Note: 5 pounds of boost is a wonderful thing at 11000+ feet - 70 mph > in 5th gear! > > Thanks Much in advance. > > Lee Janssen > Denver CO >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 18:42:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lights-on ignition-off alarm > Current cars have an alarm when you leave you lights on when > the ignition > is off. > Does anyone know of an aftermarket device that will perform > this function > for a TR6? Here's a couple of ways to roll your own: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et245.htm You could also do the first solution with an in-line diode rather than the relay. There have been times when I wanted to leave the lights on, without listening to the buzzer, so my preference would be to include an easy way to defeat it. One solution might be a big capacitor in series, so it would just chirp once as you turned the key off, then shut up. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 11:55:39 +0100 Subject: [TR] Tie down straps References: IMHO this pic shows the best (and safest) way to secure the car on a trailer. Handbrake on, gears locked in first or reverse and the strap enclosing the tyre - one strap set per wheel. https://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1600&bih=701&q=car+tie+down+straps&oq=car+tie+down+straps&gs_l=img.1.0.0j0i24l3.80.5175.0.9329.17.11.0.5.5.0.352.968.2-1j2.3.0....0...1ac.1.52.img..9.8.1038.q9tBGd-4suM#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=TmkmM1TIHgYjlM%253A%3BMbtLbDcNJYxpVM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.dawson-group.com%252Fdawsongroup%252Fup_files%252F50mm-wide-car-transporter-ratchet-strap-with-claw-hooks-663-p.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.dawson-group.com%252Fdawsongroup%252FApplication%252FCar-Transporter-Straps.htm%3B266%3B230 Next best alternative is a single strap going diagonally up the front of the tyre, around the top third of the tyre rear and then diagonally down to the ratchet. Slight deformation of the tyre may result, but a replacement tyre costs way less to rectify than a deformed front suspension tower or chassis/frame component. Jonmac >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 12:15:55 +0100 Subject: [TR] Tie down straps References: Not entirely practical if the wheel slots are not large enough. Nice colour of Z3. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brad Kahler" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2014 8:13 PM Subject: [TR] Tie down straps > I'm looking to replace my long used (and abused) car tie down straps. > Anyone use the thru the wheel type like the ones in this auction? > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290968930667 > > Thanks, > > Brad >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 11:23:52 GMT Subject: [TR] Lights-on ignition-off alarm 3M used to sell this little kit for around $7 at Walmart but I think thisis the same thing = no tools required, it just clips to round fuses. http://www.liteminder.com/index.html ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Lee Janssen Subject: [TR] Lights-on ignition-off alarm Does anyone know of an aftermarket device that will perform this function for a TR6? Lee Janssen Denver CO >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 11:59:58 GMT Subject: [TR] Tie down straps We have a new leader in the longest link competition! I tiny -ed it: http://tinyurl.com/nylchn9 ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "John Macartney" Subject: Re: [TR] Tie down straps IMHO this pic shows the best (and safest) way to secure the car on a trailer. https://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1600 &bih=701&q=car+tie+down+straps&oq=car+tie+down+straps&gs_l=img.1.0.0j0i24l3. 80.5175.0.9329.17.11.0.5.5.0.352.968.2-1j2.3.0....0...1ac.1.52.img..9.8.1038 .q9tBGd-4suM#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=TmkmM1TIHgYjlM%253A%3BMbtLbDcNJYxpVM%3Bh ttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.dawson-group.com%252Fdawsongroup%252Fup_files%252F50mm -wide-car-transporter-ratchet-strap-with-claw-hooks-663-p.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%25 2F%252Fwww.dawson-group.com%252Fdawsongroup%252FApplication%252FCar-Transpor ter-Straps.htm%3B266%3B230 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 12:39:38 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A overdrive transmission References: <21.2A.24565.C20F9F35@cdptpa-oedge01> from the healey list... There is a good if brief article in this month's issue of "Vintage Motorsports" dealing with lube choices for both transmissions and differentials. Though the article does not go into matters such as what metals like what GL ratings it does confirm that 75-90 transmission oil is approximately equal in viscosity to 10w-40 engine oils and is the right choice for most of us. Worth a read--Michael Oritt -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: roadwarriordave at hotmail.com (Dave Murphy) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 15:27:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Getting my Moss Supercharger to Run Correctly on My TR6 References: Would anyone who has the Eaton M62 supercharger with 2 barrel Holly carb that Moss sells please let me know what they did to get their car to run properly and still produce more power than stock. I put one of these on my '76 TR6 in 2008 and at stock timing settings with the as-supplied standard jets in the carb, the car would make extra power above 2800 rpm, but it would not run smoothly below 2200 rpm, and unless I was extremely slow in applying throttle when taking off from rest, it backfired scratchy soot back through the supercharger that usually took a few minutes to clear. There was not one day in the previous 6 years that I was able to drive it without backfiring at least once, until we retarded the timing and put jets 4 sizes richer in place. Now driveability is great - starts great, runs well at low revs, but there's a lot of black smoke out the exhaust, the oil gets dirty quicker and I doubt it produces any more that stock horsepower. And it won't go above 4000 rpm without bucking. -Dave Murphy Dearborn MI >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 12:33:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Getting my Moss Supercharger to Run Correctly on My TR6 References: What compression ratio are you running? Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jhmdds at aol.com (jhmdds at aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 16:08:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Tr 6 Engine List, My newly rebuilt '75 Tr6 engine has been mounted on a stand in my basement for several years. I am finally ready to put it in the car but was wondering about the cam and its state of lubrication after all this time. Is there an easy way to relube it without much disassembly? Is relubing necessary? Anything else I should check/do before reinstallation? Thanks, Jamie Maddox >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jtgayton at icloud.com (Jeffrey Gayton) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 17:45:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR Reverse Lights Randall, I was amazed to learn that the reverse lights can be engaged via a connection on the transmission. My TR4 has overdrive, but it was added later by the previous owner. My reverse lights are engaged manually via a knob on the dash! Can you give me more info on this? Id love to get mine working properly. Thanks. -- Jeff >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 20:28:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR Reverse Lights > I was amazed to learn that the reverse lights can be engaged > via a connection > on the transmission. My TR4 has overdrive, but it was added > later by the > previous owner. My reverse lights are engaged manually via a > knob on the dash! > Can you give me more info on this? Id love to get mine > working properly. I believe most of the details on how to add the switch are covered in the article on the Buckeye Triumphs site: http://tinyurl.com/ppk635m Of course, Nelson was talking about the OD switches, but the reverse switch is very similar. It's just over the reverse shift fork instead of the forward gears. Then of course you'll have to add the wiring, per the wiring diagram. I think I had a diagram showing more precise switch location, but I can't find it at the moment. Maybe someone else has a copy handy. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: pethier7 at gmail.com (Philip Ethier) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2014 15:00:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr 6 Engine References: <8D18EB772733B68-311C-27EED@webmail-d219.sysops.aol.com> Can you pull the spark plugs and run it on the starter motor? Shoot oil into the cylinders first. Hook up an oil-pressure gauge and crank the engine until you see oil pressure. There is also some trick you can do first with the distributor-drive, I think, but I have never tried that and I can ot advise you on it. On Mon, Aug 25, 2014 at 3:08 PM, wrote: > List, > > > My newly rebuilt '75 Tr6 engine has been mounted on a stand in my > basement for several years. I am finally ready to put it in the car but > was > wondering about the cam and its state of lubrication after all this time. > Is > there an easy way to relube it without much disassembly? Is relubing > necessary? Anything else I should check/do before reinstallation? > > > Thanks, > Jamie Maddox > -- pethier at comcast.net still works also Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2014 13:33:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr 6 Engine References: <8D18EB772733B68-311C-27EED@webmail-d219.sysops.aol.com> You can also remove the valve cover and dump a quart of oil over the valve train and let is run down to the cam. Of course you may need to drain some oil if this additional quart over-fills the sump. Geo >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 14:36:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3 tr3, not tr3a b what are the threads of the screws that hold the door latches on the b pillar? my body shop guy just called and he wants them; I do not have the car in front of me. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 12:50:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr 6 engine Hi Jamie, I suggest you circulate oil through the engine without turning it, since the bearings are dry from sitting for many years. I have a custom-made tool that allows turning the oil pump with an electric drill. The procedure is to remove the distributor and drive gear, then replace the drive gear "shaft" with the special tool. It takes some practice to get the distributor drive gear back in place, but it can be done with patience (hint: mark the orientation of the drive gear when the motor is at TDC before disassembly). I have heard that others use a pressurized oil canister (such as http://www.amazon.com/SURE-SHOT-Sprayer-Interior-Exterior/dp/B005POGY74) and inject oil by temporarily removing one of the galley plugs. Good luck! Cregg >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: lee.k.janssen at gmail.com (Lee Janssen) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 14:00:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] Follow up: Lights-on ignition-off alarm Thanks to all that responded to my question. Resolved the issue by purchasing a buzzer from Radio Shack and installed it between the re/green parking light line and the green windshield wiper switch supply line. Thanks again Lee Janssen Denver CO >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 20:02:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] tr3 ---- dave n wrote: > tr3, not tr3a b what are the threads of the screws that hold the door > latches on the b pillar? I vaguely recall that they are 2 BA. Slightly smaller and slightly different pitch than 10-32, they sometimes get replaced with 10-32. But I'm not certain offhand, and Revington's on-line catalog claims they are 10-32. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 18:10:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3 References: <819F0DD26CAA46BE940B0E5F5FE08504@Ranteer.local> <20140827200237.8QH6X.59528.root@cdptpa-web24> <001a01cfc239$37ea4c60$a7bee520$@net> thank you all for the replies! >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 19:21:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] You know you are REALLY done with your restoration when... References: <819F0DD26CAA46BE940B0E5F5FE08504@Ranteer.local> <20140827200237.8QH6X.59528.root@cdptpa-web24> <001a01cfc239$37ea4c60$a7bee520$@net> <96BD148251B241A8A64C5A92D50B7B96@Ranteer.local> ...you realize you have stopped looking at the Roadster Factory specials each week, swear I bought darn near a whole car just picking up a few items each week when they went on special, got the email about the mid-week special today, and realized I haven't even opened one for a while. Always still things to do, wish lists etc, but the heavy lifting must finally be done (for now at least). Greg Lemon >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 19:31:35 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] You know you are REALLY done with your restoration when... I am at the point myself that I have a hard time spending the $100 credit for having the TRF membership. While my wife was happy,at Christmas we wished we had more shipping boxes. My joke is that I had my mid-life crisis and bought the TR because my wife said I could not have a mistress. 10 years later, she wishes I had the mistress because it would have been cheaper and I would not be bugging her about sex all the time. Always gets people to laugh. Craig 72 TR6 On 08/27/14, Greg Lemon wrote: ...you realize you have stopped looking at the Roadster Factory specials each week, swear I bought darn near a whole car just picking up a few items each week when they went on special, got the email about the mid-week special today, and realized I haven't even opened one for a while. Always still things to do, wish lists etc, but the heavy lifting must finally be done (for now at least). Greg Lemon >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 19:37:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] You know you are REALLY done with your restoration when... References: <819F0DD26CAA46BE940B0E5F5FE08504@Ranteer.local> <20140827200237.8QH6X.59528.root@cdptpa-web24> <001a01cfc239$37ea4c60$a7bee520$@net> <96BD148251B241A8A64C5A92D50B7B96@Ranteer.local> <6255D97E5F6941AF88F395F6B79D5204@livingroompc> Almost the case here, everything I can buy is here and sitting on the shelves waiting for the body to come from the paint shop. Interior, gauges, dash, capping, exterior, wheels & tires. Silly me, I thought a year would be plenty of time. Sent from mobile Bill On Aug 27, 2014, at 7:21 PM, "Greg Lemon" wrote: ...you realize you have stopped looking at the Roadster Factory specials each week, swear I bought darn near a whole car just picking up a few items each week when they went on special, got the email about the mid-week special today, and realized I haven't even opened one for a while. Always still things to do, wish lists etc, but the heavy lifting must finally be done (for now at least). Greg Lemon ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 11:06:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again Awhile back I think I had posted that I ended up having to remove the cylinder head of my TR4A to have the bronze valve guides replaced as they were not reamed enough to allow adequate clearance for the valves. The engine ran fine all day as long as I didn't go over about 2,500 RPM for more than 2 minutes or so. If I did, the engine would develope a misfire and there was a clicking sound comming from the engine. If I pushed in the clutch and let the engine idle it would run fine again.. As if that wasn't bad enough, the new camshaft and lifters were ruined in the process of hitting the tight valves. So, I had new cast iron valve guides installed by a different machine shop and bought a new camshaft and new lifters from BPNW. I carefully degreed the new camshaft which was a PIA to do with the engine still in the car by the way. I put the rest of the engine together and it not only won't start, but won't even "pop". Here is what I have done so far; 1. I reviewed again the camshaft timing instructions (BP270 camshaft from BPNW) a. Find TDC for cylinder 1 and index the degree wheel to "0 degrees" b. Turn the cranshaft to indicate 112 degrees ATDC. c. Install dial indicator on #1 intake valve and turn camshaft till lobe is at max. lift d. Install timing chain. e. Rotate crankshaft through the 4 cycles and verify crankshaft and intake lobe match up to specs. ( I did this a couple of times) 3. Adjusted the valves one more time and didn't find any that were too tight or loose. 4. The slot on the distributor drive is pointing to the first pushrod tube at TDC on # 1 compression stroke. 5. I used a timing light to make sure the No. 1 plug was firing just after TDC. 6. Made sure plug wires are connected correctly (Firing Order 1,3,4, 2) 7. New spark plug wires 8. New plugs 9. There is fuel to the carbs. About the only other thing I can think of is that somehow the intake manifold is not tight up against the head and I will check that today. There is no gas smell like the engine is flooded which I am suspicious of as I cranked if trying to start it and I would have expected to smell gas. Anybody have an other ideas?? Thanks, Dave Connitt >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 10:12:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again References: <27BD267D64F041649A9D66CAD88AF743@DaveLaptop> Be sure that you used the 2nd lifter from the front to check the intake lift (not the front lifter). "A Friend" once made that mistake... :) Tony Drews At 10:06 AM 8/28/2014, Dave Connitt wrote: >Awhile back I think I had posted that I ended up having to remove the cylinder >head of my TR4A to have the bronze valve guides replaced as they were not >reamed enough to allow adequate clearance for the valves. The engine ran fine >all day as long as I didn't go over about 2,500 RPM for more than 2 minutes or >so. If I did, the engine would develope a misfire and there was a clicking >sound comming from the engine. If I pushed in the clutch and let the engine >idle it would run fine again.. As if that wasn't bad enough, the new camshaft >and lifters were ruined in the process of hitting the tight valves. >So, I had new cast iron valve guides installed by a different machine shop and >bought a new camshaft and new lifters from BPNW. >I carefully degreed the new camshaft which was a PIA to do with the engine >still in the car by the way. I put the rest of the engine together and it not >only won't start, but won't even "pop". >Here is what I have done so far; >1. I reviewed again the camshaft timing instructions (BP270 camshaft from >BPNW) > a. Find TDC for cylinder 1 and index the degree wheel to "0 degrees" > b. Turn the cranshaft to indicate 112 degrees ATDC. > c. Install dial indicator on #1 intake valve and turn camshaft till lobe >is at max. lift > d. Install timing chain. > e. Rotate crankshaft through the 4 cycles and verify crankshaft > and intake >lobe match up to specs. ( I did this a couple of times) >3. Adjusted the valves one more time and didn't find any that were too tight >or loose. >4. The slot on the distributor drive is pointing to the first pushrod tube at >TDC on # 1 compression stroke. >5. I used a timing light to make sure the No. 1 plug was firing just after >TDC. >6. Made sure plug wires are connected correctly (Firing Order 1,3,4, 2) >7. New spark plug wires >8. New plugs >9. There is fuel to the carbs. > > >About the only other thing I can think of is that somehow the intake manifold >is not tight up against the head and I will check that today. There is no gas >smell like the engine is flooded which I am suspicious of as I cranked if >trying to start it and I would have expected to smell gas. > >Anybody have an other ideas?? > >Thanks, >Dave Connitt > >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 08:20:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again References: <27BD267D64F041649A9D66CAD88AF743@DaveLaptop> On 8/28/14, 8:06 AM, Dave Connitt wrote: > I carefully degreed the new camshaft which was a PIA to do with the engine > still in the car by the way. I put the rest of the engine together and it not > only won't start, but won't even "pop". > Here is what I have done so far; > 1. I reviewed again the camshaft timing instructions (BP270 camshaft from > BPNW) > a. Find TDC for cylinder 1 and index the degree wheel to "0 degrees" > Was it top dead centre on the compression stroke or top dead centre on the exhaust stroke and are you sure? After all that work with the degree wheel did you double check it buy visually following the method for installing a camshaft described in the workshop manual? When you installed the distributor was the rotor pointed in the right direction? You mentioned verifying fuel but didn't mention spark. Have you verified that you have a strong spark at the plugs? TeriAnn >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 08:30:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again References: <27BD267D64F041649A9D66CAD88AF743@DaveLaptop> Assuming you have spark. Have you checked your static timing to insure that the distributor timing is correct? Make sure your intake manifold is seated properly on the head. It is very easy to have a gap at the bottom on the 4 cyl tr's , a big gap. It's so easy to do that I've done it 3x now and it's something I know to look for (for the last two times anyway). Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 11:41:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again References: <27BD267D64F041649A9D66CAD88AF743@DaveLaptop> <53FF48C7.9020909@gmail.com> TeriAnn, As I understand it, TDC is just TDC untill I attach the camshaft right? The rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire (about 11 o'clock I verified the spark by holding a spark plug to the block and having someone turn over the engine and there is a very healthy spark there. Thanks, Dave >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 17:24:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again ---- Dave Connitt wrote: > TeriAnn, > As I understand it, TDC is just TDC untill I attach the camshaft right? That's right (tho I'm not TeriAnn). My money is on the intake manifold not being seated or no fuel in the carbs; but a double-check of cam & ignition timing wouldn't hurt. Remove the #1 plug, rocker cover and the distributor cap, then slowly turn the engine forward until the distributor tries to fire #1 (points start to open with rotor pointing at where #1 terminal should be. Now look down the #1 plug hole to see the top of the piston. It should be close enough to see, but if you can't tell for sure, stick a soda straw or similar down the hole. You should be able to feel the top of the piston very close to the hole. Then look at the valves. Both valves for #1 should be loose and have the recommended lash. Both valves for #4 should be open, by roughly the same amount. If those conditions are met, then the cam and ignition timing are close enough for it to at least try to run. A common mistake is to reassemble the front pulley wrong, which puts the TDC mark in the wrong place. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 10:34:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again References: <27BD267D64F041649A9D66CAD88AF743@DaveLaptop> On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 8:06 AM, Dave Connitt wrote: > 4. The slot on the distributor drive is pointing to the first pushrod tube > at > TDC on # 1 compression stroke... As I recall... that slot ((or notch) must point *away* from #1 -- it is the rotor itself that points *to* #1. Geo >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 14:07:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again-- Update! I just got it running! It was the intake manifold not being up against the gasket. As I was removing the last nuts holding the intake manifold, it started rocking strangely and after looking at the two holes that the pins on the head plug into, I could tell they had witness marks on them that meant the manifold was not seated correctly. So, after going through that whole assembly process again, it started almost immediately. I ran it for 25 minutes or so at 2,000 RPM and when I let it go back down to idle, it sat there running smoother than it ever did at about 750 RPM which is about 150-200 RPM slower than it ever did before. I think those bronze valve guides were my nemisis all along.. Thanks to all for your help! A special thanks to Jerry Van Vlack for his patience with my phone calls LOL Dave Connitt >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 16:06:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 distributor / vacuum unit` I have several usable distributors for the cars I am restoring, but all the vacuum units are shot. I see Moss lists various vacuum units depending on the type of distributor: is this a question of fit of is it more complicated than that - a match to the weights or something more intrinsic. So my question is - how important is it to match a vacuum unit to a particular distributor? Andrew Uprichard >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 13:28:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 distributor / vacuum unit` References: As ever - it depends. I'd just send it off to Advance Distributors and let them have their way with it. They've done 4 for me know and they come back working great and looking better than new. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 16:34:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] question about hub stud installation References: <030D75D065DE4A21B818E48F1BAC85BB@DaveLaptop> I had to replace two rear hub studs on my '56 TR3. It looked like they were pressed in but I found that they are screwed in then peened over on the back of the hub. I don't think I will be able to peen the new studs with simple shop tools. Any suggestions or alternative methods? I was thinking about high strength locktite?? TIA Pete >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 13:41:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 distributor / vacuum unit` References: <000301cfc2fb$a5dedde0$f19c99a0$@uprichard.net> Andrew - I expect the difference is the vacuum advance specs as expressed by three numbers: 4-11-7 in the case of the 40480A and 40698 units. Those numbers are typically stamped on the vacuum unit. The first number is the vacuum where advance begins (in inches of mercury), the second number is the vacuum where advance maxes out and the third number is the maximum advance in crank degrees. You're probably familiar with this page, but in case you're not - here is a pretty comprehensive list of Lucas distributors with applications and vacuum advance numbers: http://www.starchak.ca/tech/pdfs/lucas.pdf Geo On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 1:06 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > I have several usable distributors for the cars I am restoring, but all the > vacuum units are shot. I see Moss lists various vacuum units depending on > the type of distributor: is this a question of fit of is it more > complicated than that - a match to the weights or something more intrinsic. > > > > So my question is - how important is it to match a vacuum unit to a > particular distributor? > > Andrew Uprichard >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 22:01:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] question about hub stud installation ---- Pete Ryner wrote: > I had to replace two rear hub studs on my '56 TR3. It looked like they were > pressed in but I found that they are screwed in then peened over on the back > of the hub. I don't think I will be able to peen the new studs with simple > shop tools. Any suggestions or alternative methods? I was thinking about > high strength locktite?? Loctite certainly won't hurt. But you should also be able to peen them over with a punch and BFH. I forget the term for the type of punch, but the angle at the tip is less sharp than a center punch. Make a circle of dimples around the outside edge of the stud, just inside the threads. You used to be able to buy fully threaded studs that would screw in from the back; but I couldn't find them last time I looked. Moroso doesn't make the old part number any more. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 08:38:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Craig's Mid Life crisis Hey Craig, no "other woman" involved here, just a TR6. We got married in '73 after dating for three years. There used to be a Triumph dealership not for from our cruising rout and we'd drive by and lust. Even tried out a brand new TR6 and of course we were both deeply moved by the experience. The car cost, if memory serves me (which it has been failing at doing lately) the price was between 3 and $4,000. This was he 70s and we were just getting started monewise and that seemed like a lot of money to us. We ended up buying a SuperBeetle. Anyway, life goes on with two sons, many jobs, my wife moving up to a six figure income while I became a house husband. There was still an itching for a "sports car" and I still couldn't afford anything with vroooom!! But I could pay $2,800 cash for a beautiful yellow '78 Spitfire. ( if you are on Facebook you can look through my picture albums to see what having my 16 year old son lose control of it one night. Soooo insurance $ + some extra gets me in a nice Frenchblue 74 TR6. I live in Jacksonville Fl.; the car was in Charleston Wva. I'm familiar with that area because we used to live not far from there. The price had been agreed upon using e-mail and a phone call. So, suddenly I can't remember HOW I got there, maybe a rental. Car seemed to work fine to I bought it. My aunt lives 75 miles away in S.E. Ohio so I'll drive over to see her. Funny thing, I asked the seller that if it were him would he be comfortable driving the Triumph from Wva to Florida and I thought his answer peculiar; it was "I wouldn't care to". I tried to pry from him if he meant that negatively of positively. I soon found out. Arriving a my aunts I had too make a left turn into her driveway and boom!!! the car wouldn't go into gear. I finally jammed it into 2nd gear and got it behind her house. I was totally inexperienced in the quirks of TR6s and had to wait two weeks for the only mechanic within 75 miles who could work on it. He did and the car ran fine. So the next day I merrily head back to Florida. Every thing went fire until the first gas stop where the car wouldn't restart. Finally it did (vapor lock??) Second stop Bluefield Wva,,,no start, no shifting. Some good old boy mechanics put their heads together and got my back on the road----all the way to south of Charlotte NC where the same thing happened. Called my wife and her exact words were, "get a trailer and van and haul the damned thing home, which I did. One thing I have discovered since 1998 is our LBC's have a way to live in the shop more than at home. Over the last year mine has spent more time in the shop than at home. It has been up on concrete blocks for peobably 5 months waiting for me to man up, crawl under it, replace the clutch slave cylinder and then the clutch master cylinder. The fluid in the resivoirs was black and I read that means the fluid caused the rubber parts to melt. I'm 65 years of age now and I can attest to the fact that -at least my car- have evolved into a LATE LIFE CRISIS car:)) Thinking about selling it because I can no longer afford to make it the car of my dreams. We always had dreams of driving it on the two lane backroads in late summer, hair blowing in the wind but, my wife became injured and totally disabled in 2000 and in her condition she can't climb in or out of it. So what good is your dream car with no one to share it with. And when I say dream car; MANY, MANY nights I would fall asleep daydreaming about the TR6. I think I'll go crawl under it in my hot/stifiling garage and see if there are any snakes in residence. Cheers & Tally-Ho!! >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 16:09:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] fuel line "olive" List, B Has anyone found a source for the proper compression fitting for the fuel lines that connect to the fuel pump on a TR3? Modern fittings, of course, are a bit too short and permit fuel seepage. B TIA, B Ed Woods >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 15:58:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] question about hub stud installation References: <20140828220135.APNXU.84698.root@cdptpa-web24> Thanks Randall, Your comment reminded me that I had an air chisel with a punch type tool. Worked great although not as neat as the originals. I also used some strong threadlocking that will have to be heated if I ever want to remove the stud again. Pete -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2014 6:01 PM To: Pete Ryner ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] question about hub stud installation ---- Pete Ryner wrote: > I had to replace two rear hub studs on my '56 TR3. It looked like they > were > pressed in but I found that they are screwed in then peened over on the > back > of the hub. I don't think I will be able to peen the new studs with > simple > shop tools. Any suggestions or alternative methods? I was thinking about > high strength locktite?? Loctite certainly won't hurt. But you should also be able to peen them over with a punch and BFH. I forget the term for the type of punch, but the angle at the tip is less sharp than a center punch. Make a circle of dimples around the outside edge of the stud, just inside the threads. You used to be able to buy fully threaded studs that would screw in from the back; but I couldn't find them last time I looked. Moroso doesn't make the old part number any more. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 21:28:36 +0000 Subject: [TR] stage ad My direct reply got bounced, so here it is through the list: Can't send attachments through the Team.Net lists. Best you can do is post the photo on a web site or forum someplace, then post a link to that on the list. I'm always interested in old ads, though; so if you want, you can send it to me directly and I'll do the rest. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton) Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2014 10:04:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stag parts needed I am sure this is a strange request for STAG parts. I need a block with main caps and crankshaft. Nothing else, no rods/pistons, heads, etc. They also don't need to be useable parts. Can have bad bores, crank journals, broken. Also need flywheel or flex plate. Adapter plates to transmission manual and automatic. I am working on a plan to install a 5 speed gearbox in a Stag and need these parts for measuring and to mock up the fitting. Would like to do a 4 speed conversion first and then tackle a conversion of an automatic. If you have anything connect me direct and we will work out something. Would also like to know if there are any Stag owners that would be interested in such a package if I can keep the cost reasonable. Dean T. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 14:06:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A Air Duct Mounting I'm currently in the process of installing the GoodParts stainless steel radiator air duct in my TR4A and have a small problem. My 1967 TR4A is a very late one - CTC78390L - and the upper valance panel to which the top piece of air duct mounts is V shaped putting the middle mounting point 1/2 inch or so in front of the two others. I wonder if TRIUMPH maybe switched to a TR250 style late in the run? I had encountered this problem with the two previous "cardboard" ducts but had simply ignored the mid-point mount. Anyone else been there - done this? I've asked Richard Good for comments. ... and thanks to John Donnelly and Dave Connitt for recommending GoodParts - I'm very impressed with the overall quality of the product! Cheers, Brian _______________________________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane, R R 1 Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 CANADA K0H 2Y0 >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 08:35:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch References: Listers, My recently acquired GT6+ is equipped with an O/D (yea!) but the safety switch mounted at the distal end of the gearbox extension only allows for 4th gear operation. I saw a picture of a safety switch mounted more or less over the forks.. question is/are is this a MK3 improvement or is it a extension assembly from a TR other car that just happens to interchange? Dave in Abq. -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 15:04:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A Air Duct Mounting References: <560C245B97F04D72B540247BE237CE30@VlackTK121647> Thanks Jerry for the comment. The V shape certainly appears to be factory. I've only had the car for 25 years and can't comment on any accidents before my time. I did hit a deer about 4 years ago and while the hood was displaced rearwards, the grill and bumper escaped any damage. Besides, I had installed a cardboard duct before then and had the same problem. I find it interesting that Richard offers a different product for the TR250. >From the pictures it appears the 250 doesn't have the overflow bottle cut-out - maybe the top piece is also different? ... and no, I haven't looked at a TR250 yet - perhaps a 250 list member can comment? Brian >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 08:46:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Air Duct Mounting References: Just to research w/o leaving my chair... I Googled images for the TR4 engine and the TR250 engine to compare: TR4 TR250 I'm not seeing anything I would call a V - or any other differences in that area. Geo >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 11:50:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Air Duct Mounting References: <560C245B97F04D72B540247BE237CE30@VlackTK121647> In addition to the overflow bottle difference there may be a difference in either the width or the placement of the 250 radiator requiring in different side panel length and angle.With the 6 cyl engine my guess is that the radiator is placed in a different location. Come to think of it that would also negate the use of the top panel as it's length and width would be different too. JVV >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 14:47:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] fuel line "olive" References: <785359526.8124183.1409328424841.JavaMail.root@comcast.net> <1484400009.8125745.1409328543830.JavaMail.root@comcast.net> I recall someone posted a picture of how they took two modern olives, cut the taper of of one end of each, and then installed them butted together. But I can't recall where I saw it... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 12:09 PM, wrote: > List, > B > Has anyone found a source for the proper compression fitting for the fuel > lines that connect to the fuel pump on a TR3? Modern fittings, of course, are > a bit too short and permit fuel seepage. > B > TIA, > B > Ed Woods >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 11:53:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] fuel line "olive" > I recall someone posted a picture of how they took two modern olives, > cut the taper of of one end of each, and then installed them butted > together. But I can't recall where I saw it... http://tinyurl.com/nptltzp Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 15:01:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch References: <540332B7.4060104@porterscustom.com> Not being intimate with the GT6 transmission, but assuming that it works the same as the Spitfire and TR6 gearboxes, the switch should operate via a notch in the shaft, or a notch in the fork. As I understand it, the switch dropping into the notch locks out the signal to the solenoid. The OD switch on the column/shift knob remains engaged, and so shifting between gears keeps the OD working except for the brief period when the lever passes through neutral where the switch plunger drops into the notch.. So, the position of the switch mounting shouldn't affect whether or not it works in 3rd gear. I'm guessing you have some other problem, but what it is is still a mystery. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 10:35 AM, David Porter wrote: > Listers, > My recently acquired GT6+ is equipped with an O/D (yea!) but the safety > switch mounted at the distal end of the gearbox extension only allows for > 4th gear operation. I saw a picture of a safety switch mounted more or less > over the forks.. question is/are is this a MK3 improvement or is it a > extension assembly from a TR other car that just happens to interchange? > Dave in Abq. > > -- > Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 > 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ > >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: will.daehler at gmail.com (Will Daehler) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 15:24:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine won't restart when hot I'm at wits end, this problem happened at first after a short 10 minute jaunt to the grocery store. After letting the car sit for an hour, the engine restarted fine. But I had been served the warning, and thought it was time to do the standard maintenance tune up operations. I replaced the coil, the condenser, the points, adjusted the valve lash. Installed new distributor cap, and all new wires, new spark plugs, and my new rotor is the red type . My carburetors are rebuilt and freshly cleaned. I'm using SU dash pot oil, and I'm following the wisdom of the list and the manuals everywhere I can. My very last no-start event, I pulled that caps off the float bowls, and confirmed that I had gas in both, and that the floats were floating. So when the engine is running, it runs well and the car goes likes stink. I was up to 88 miles per hour last month. But stop the car for a minute, and it's nearly impossible to restart unless I wait an hour and a half. Its like my gasoline is made from water, and won't ignite. I have the Ted Schumacher gear reduction starter motor and a strong battery, I'm not limited by the number of cranks. It just won't fire!!!! What can I check? What can I do? Looking for suggestions. National VTR is two weeks, and it's going to be embarrassing. My gut feel is that my carbs are set way too rich. Will Daehler 63 TR4 Powder Blue >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 13:24:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch References: <540332B7.4060104@porterscustom.com> No, this particular installation relies on an external contact by the gear shift lever itself. Not an internal position of the 3rd/4th shift rod. The usual Lucas pressure switch is mounted on the side at the very rearmost part of the extension assembly, not on the top in the more or less center section... this allows only using O/D in 4th gear.. better than nothing I guess.. Dave On 8/31/2014 1:01 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > Not being intimate with the GT6 transmission, but assuming that it > works the same as the Spitfire and TR6 gearboxes, the switch should > operate via a notch in the shaft, or a notch in the fork. As I > understand it, the switch dropping into the notch locks out the signal > to the solenoid. The OD switch on the column/shift knob remains > engaged, and so shifting between gears keeps the OD working except > for the brief period when the lever passes through neutral where the > switch plunger drops into the notch.. > > So, the position of the switch mounting shouldn't affect whether or > not it works in 3rd gear. I'm guessing you have some other problem, > but what it is is still a mystery. > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > > On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 10:35 AM, David Porter > wrote: >> Listers, >> My recently acquired GT6+ is equipped with an O/D (yea!) but the safety >> switch mounted at the distal end of the gearbox extension only allows for >> 4th gear operation. I saw a picture of a safety switch mounted more or less >> over the forks.. question is/are is this a MK3 improvement or is it a >> extension assembly from a TR other car that just happens to interchange? >> Dave in Abq. >> -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 13:42:38 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine won't restart when hot References: Will, The basics are where to start. Pull the spark plugs and visually examine for excessive wetness. While they are out check the compression, is it within normal limits. Also check that the points are actually opening. Roll the car in 4th gear and watch the opening as the cam rotates. When they are closed, key on, open them manually and watch for a small spark, does it spark each time? The 4's run the fuel line very close to the thermostat housing. Is it so close as to exacerbate a "vapor lock" condition. Remove a carb piston and see if fuel is bubbling up through the jet head when hot. Depending on the chokes installed, if manual Strombergs, the tiny rubber O-rings fail and will flood the engine quickly when hot. Note: when a flooded condition occurs hold the throttle in a wide open position to clear the flooding. Dave follow up if you are able.. On 8/31/2014 1:24 PM, Will Daehler wrote: > I'm at wits end, this problem happened at first after a short 10 minute > jaunt to the grocery store. After letting the car sit for an hour, the > engine restarted fine. But I had been served the warning, and thought it > was time to do the standard maintenance tune up operations. I replaced the > coil, the condenser, the points, adjusted the valve lash. Installed new > distributor cap, and all new wires, new spark plugs, and my new rotor is > the red type . My carburetors are rebuilt and freshly cleaned. I'm using SU > dash pot oil, and I'm following the wisdom of the list and the manuals > everywhere I can. > My very last no-start event, I pulled that caps off the float bowls, and > confirmed that I had gas in both, and that the floats were floating. > > So when the engine is running, it runs well and the car goes likes stink. I > was up to 88 miles per hour last month. But stop the car for a minute, and > it's nearly impossible to restart unless I wait an hour and a half. Its > like my gasoline is made from water, and won't ignite. I have the Ted > Schumacher gear reduction starter motor and a strong battery, I'm not > limited by the number of cranks. It just won't fire!!!! > > What can I check? What can I do? Looking for suggestions. > > National VTR is two weeks, and it's going to be embarrassing. > My gut feel is that my carbs are set way too rich. > > Will Daehler > 63 TR4 Powder Blue -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 15:51:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine won't restart when hot But, Will, did you check for spark (at the plugs) at the same moment that you were in a no-start situation? Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1962 TR4 CT2052L >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 14:54:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine won't restart when hot References: By your comment about the gas I presume you are seeing wet plugs after a short session of no-start cranking. Have you leaned out the carbs a couple of flats as a time and rechecked your plug color? If you are satisfied with the fuel side, try replacing the ignition parts from the tune up with the old ones you know to be good. I would start with the condenser. You don't mention the coil, the heat problem could be there. You could relocate it, insulate it , or replace it to see if it resolves you issue. Sent from mobile Bill >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 15:42:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch > this allows only using O/D in 4th > gear.. better than nothing I guess.. Just a SWAG, but the GT6 used the D-type OD which was marginal even behind the much smaller Spitfire motor. My _guess_ is that they limited it to 4th gear because the OD could not handle the engine torque multiplied by the 3rd gear ratio. I don't know how the ratios work out on the GT6, but on the TR2-6, 3rd OD is so close to 4th direct that it's almost not a separate gear. That's not to say 3rd OD is totally useless, but it's also not a big loss, IMO. Randall >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 16:52:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch References: <540332B7.4060104@porterscustom.com> <54037683.1010905@porterscustom.com> On 8/31/2014 1:24 PM, David Porter wrote: > No, > this particular installation relies on an external contact by the > gear shift lever itself. Not an internal position of the 3rd/4th shift > rod. The usual Lucas pressure switch is mounted on the side at the > very rearmost part of the extension assembly, not on the top in the > more or less center section... this allows only using O/D in 4th > gear.. better than nothing I guess.. > Dave > On 8/31/2014 1:01 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: >> Not being intimate with the GT6 transmission, but assuming that it >> works the same as the Spitfire and TR6 gearboxes, the switch should >> operate via a notch in the shaft, or a notch in the fork. As I >> understand it, the switch dropping into the notch locks out the signal >> to the solenoid. The OD switch on the column/shift knob remains >> engaged, and so shifting between gears keeps the OD working except >> for the brief period when the lever passes through neutral where the >> switch plunger drops into the notch.. >> >> So, the position of the switch mounting shouldn't affect whether or >> not it works in 3rd gear. I'm guessing you have some other problem, >> but what it is is still a mystery. >> >> Jeff Scarbrough >> Corrosion Acres, Ga. >> >> On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 10:35 AM, David Porter >> wrote: >>> Listers, >>> My recently acquired GT6+ is equipped with an O/D (yea!) but the >>> safety >>> switch mounted at the distal end of the gearbox extension only >>> allows for >>> 4th gear operation. I saw a picture of a safety switch mounted more >>> or less >>> over the forks.. question is/are is this a MK3 improvement or is it a >>> extension assembly from a TR other car that just happens to >>> interchange? >>> Dave in Abq. -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 17:04:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch References: <540332B7.4060104@porterscustom.com> <54037683.1010905@porterscustom.com> <5403A725.2000609@porterscustom.com> All, I have resolved the switch issue. A generous lister has the correct factory adapter that allows 3rd and 4th gear O/D operation. Happily I don't have to settle for only one additional gear... yea! thanks to all who offered their thoughts! Dave >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 19:17:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch References: <54037683.1010905@porterscustom.com> <3C.48.31046.9E4A3045@cdptpa-oedge03> Yes, but if you are on a tight winding road, it's fun just to kick the car in and out of overdrive in third rather than shift up and down. Andrew Uprichard >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 16:32:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch References: <54037683.1010905@porterscustom.com> <3C.48.31046.9E4A3045@cdptpa-oedge03> <00b201cfc571$ccdcea40$6696bec0$@uprichard.net> And on a mountain grade of about 6% (and no traffic to slow you down) 3rd OD is my gear of choice as 4th isn't quite enough and 3rd is definitely too much. On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 4:17 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Yes, but if you are on a tight winding road, it's fun just to kick the car > in and out of overdrive in third rather than shift up and down. > >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 16:57:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] E-Type Prices Drop? I have moments of weakness and consider purchasing a Jag. It seems to me that some E-type prices have been dropping recently. http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1967-Jaguar-E_Type-1637822.xhtml?conversationId=89883 http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1969-Jaguar-E_Type-1568202.xhtml?conversationId=89883 http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1969-Jaguar-XK_E-1698307.xhtml?conversationId=89883 Triumph owners understand that there is no such thing as a cheap Jag. If you can't afford a good one you certainly can't afford a bad one... These three examples look like pretty good cars at pretty low prices. I mean, they are down to TR6 prices. Am I missing something? Has anyone else been following the E-type prices and come up with the same conclusion? -Bill in Tehachapi >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 01:08:11 GMT Subject: [TR] E-Type Prices Drop? The tan car looks particularly nice.Those are lower prices than they have been AGE RES PROPRIAS TUAS MOLON LABE ---------- Original Message ---------- From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] E-Type Prices Drop? Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 16:57:15 -0700 I have moments of weakness and consider purchasing a Jag. It seems to me that some E-type prices have been dropping recently. http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1967-Jaguar-E_Type-1637822.xhtm l?conversationId=89883 http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1969-Jaguar-E_Type-1568202.xhtm l?conversationId=89883 http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1969-Jaguar-XK_E-1698307.xhtml? conversationId=89883 Triumph owners understand that there is no such thing as a cheap Jag. If you can't afford a good one you certainly can't afford a bad one... These three examples look like pretty good cars at pretty low prices. I mean, they are down to TR6 prices. Am I missing something? Has anyone else been following the E-type prices and come up with the same conclusion? -Bill in Tehachapi >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 18:26:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] E-Type Prices Drop? References: <1409529435.24223.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> In my experience there are a fair number of scammers using AutoTrader. They lift the photos right off of other for sale sites & auctions. I suspect all three of those are scams. OTOH, consider this: http://goo.gl/CsvS7u But good E-Types can still be had at reasonable prices - I got one about 2 years ago -- but like anything where money is involved, it is tricky. These cars in particular can be made to look much better than they are with bondo and paint. Geo >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 20:23:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] O/D safety switch References: <54037683.1010905@porterscustom.com> <3C.48.31046.9E4A3045@cdptpa-oedge03> <00b201cfc571$ccdcea40$6696bec0$@uprichard.net> when we did tail of the dragon, it was all 2nd and 2nd od, back and forth, back and forth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stIUBx5jWY8 >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 01:37:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] OT: help from the brilliant }I have a rental car for the week while on vacation. It seems someone decided to key scratch the hood while parked at dinner. I wish to not have to declare this and go through hell with insurance etc. Any thoughts on how I could tackle this before facing the hell? Thanks David >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 22:31:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] OT: help from the brilliant References: Er.... find a body shop ?? Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Templeton Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2014 9:37 PM To: Triumphs at Autox Team. Net Subject: [TR] OT: help from the brilliant }I have a rental car for the week while on vacation. It seems someone decided to key scratch the hood while parked at dinner. I wish to not have to declare this and go through hell with insurance etc. Any thoughts on how I could tackle this before facing the hell? Thanks David >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 20:36:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] E-Type Prices Drop? References: <1409529435.24223.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Here is some detail on those great deals. The first two are available (along with some other great deals) from Gateway Motors in Chicago. The beige one http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1967-Jaguar-E_Type-1637822.xhtml?conversationId=89883 sold on eBay last month for $71,000 -- eBay listing -- now Gateway is offering it for $29,000. The red one http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1969-Jaguar-E_Type-1568202.xhtml?conversation sold on eBay for $50,000 in March -- eBay listing -- now gateway is selling it for $22,800. Their 'buy high - sell low' business model is either remarkably generous or a scam. The third one http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1969-Jaguar-XK_E-1698307.xhtml?conversationId=89883 appears to be a legitimate sale as it is offered by the Beverly Hills Car Club -- the ad -- and they are a real business. I don't think AutoTrader itself is a scam -- it appears to lift ads from sellers sites. Since Gateway motors lists those first two cars they pick them up and repeat the ad & price. If you do become interested in an E-Type this site xkedata.com is a great resource where detail about many Jaguars can be sourced using the chassis number. Geo >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 20:38:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] OT: help from the brilliant References: Return it at night... in the rain? On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 6:37 PM, David Templeton wrote: > }I have a rental car for the week while on vacation. It seems someone > decided > to key scratch the hood while parked at dinner. I wish to not have to > declare > this and go through hell with insurance etc. > > Any thoughts on how I could tackle this before facing the hell? > > Thanks > David From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 20 12:35:44 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 58D6C25846C7 for ; Sat, 20 Sep 2014 12:35:44 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from bradakis.com (50-198-190-18-static.hfc.comcastbusiness.net [50.198.190.18]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id EB94F25806B8 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Sat, 20 Sep 2014 12:35:12 -0600 (MDT) Received: from bradakis.com (50-198-190-18-static.hfc.comcastbusiness.net [50.198.190.18]) by bradakis.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0BB052C014E for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Sat, 20 Sep 2014 12:38:07 -0600 (MDT) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 12:38:07 -0600 From: Mark J Bradakis User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:29.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/29.0 SeaMonkey/2.26.1 To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> References: Subject: Re: [6pack] Carb tuning Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net James_ wrote: > The sync tool measures very different between the carbs. High number on the rear and lower on the front. > That has always been an issue to get a proper reading exact between the two. It shouldn't be that difficult to sync them. Are you loosening the clamps for both carbs from the center linkage before trying to balance? mjb. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2014 19:57:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A 400 mile checkup Today I put the TR4A up on jack stands and changed the oil and filter for it's 400 mile check. I started at the rear and worked my way up to the front checking for loose fastners or anything needing attention. All I found was; 1. Driver side rear brake needed adjusting. 2. Added a couple of ty-wraps on the speedometer cable. 3. Passenger side front wheel bearing was a tad loose. 4. retorqued the head and adjusted the valves. 5. I checked the spark plugs and the center electrodes are tan and the rest of the plug was black. Not bad I started installing the rear bumper today. I got as far as getting all the rear fastners and brackets loosely attached. I need to work on the side attachements and then I can start tightening things up. Last Friday, I drove it to work (about 45 miles round trip) and another 40 or so miles yesterday down the Ohio river and back. The reason I am not sure is that the speedometer needs to be rebuilt. It broke two speedometer cables until I caught on and disconnected it. The bearing that the main shaft runs it has stiffened up. I talked to a gauge rebuilder and he said it would take 4 weeks to rebuild Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim Purdy) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2014 14:22:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Bonnet I have a few problems of late with my '64 Triumph, one being the brake lines. However, yesterday, when I wanted to check the fluid level, the bonnet appears stuck and wont open. How can I easily determine whether the cable is broken. Since the release lever does not open it, is there an alternative to opening it? How frustrating with nice driving weather, and I can't in the TR4. >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 08:31:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast References: <9Go41o00b0NyJgq01Go7ap> Look for heat marks/discoloration on your rotors. These "hot spots" are work hardened metal and can cause a pulsation. If you have them, they can't be machined out. They can be caused by using a pad that is too hard. I run the softest pads I can find on all my cars. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 ----- >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 03:20:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast > Just checked the rotor > runout and it's > way out of spec on the right and OK (.005) on the left. > > Should I turn both rotors? IMO, replace the right, leave the left alone except for breaking the glaze. If the right rotor warped that badly, then it's almost certainly a bad casting and will just warp again. > They aren't scored; if I turn > them must I put in > new pads? Should be OK to reuse the old pads, if they look alright. But since they normally wear out first, changing them now may mean longer before you change them again. Kind of depends on what your time is worth to change them. Randall >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2014 16:22:34 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY Anyone out there purchased and is using these LED instrument lights listed on EBAY? http://www.ebay.com/itm/300923024335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Craig 72 Triumph TR6 >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2014 02:54:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY References: <29087932.873617.1401744154230.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> bought a set about a year ago..... nice but more expensive than the sets I've since bought from Sencart.com ..not sure what happened to the pics...but one is still there about second fro mthe last row second pic from teh left. I have sets of red, green, blue, and white. They are all brighter than the ebay units you mention, and half the cost. nfi...just a satified experimenter, I used the green in my Triumph as the speedo and tach already had green lenses over the bulbs inside. now at least ALL my gauges are green. ptegler On 6/2/2014 5:22 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > Anyone out there purchased and is using these LED instrument lights listed on EBAY? > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/300923024335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 > >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 02:52:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 Headrest References: You have to depress the spring steel tab that protrudes from the support post which prevents the headrest from just sliding out. The tab is located on the right side of the headrest shaft. Here is what the little tab looks like that holds them in. The spring action is very stiff. I haven't figured out what tool is necessary to release it. I tried steel shim stock and found the tab would puncture it before pressing in. I have these pictures because I ended up stripping down a seat for recovering. Greg G. Osseo, MN > Does anybody know how the adjustable headrest on a 1974 TR6 comes off. > Got these neat seatbelt guides but I can't figure out if the headrest > comes > out or the second option is to cut the guides. Thanks > Harry Mague >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (Martin Secrest) Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2014 20:38:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast References: <3928A0B5-4489-415E-A01C-AEE73E43614E@verizon.net> Thanks Jeff; basically everything's already in good shape. The machine shop confirmed what I thought. On rotor was way out of spec and has to be replaced. Fortunately they are cheap. > On Jun 2, 2014, at 1:57 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > On Sat, May 31, 2014 at 1:18 PM, Martin Secrest > wrote: > >> >> Should I turn both rotors? They aren't scored; if I turn them must I put in >> new pads? > > If I recall,t he GT6 rotors are like Spitfire rotors - a solid disk > without much extra thickness. May not be able to turn the warp out of > it. > > I'd be tempted to replace rotors and pads, and make sure to evaluate > the cause - is a caliper sticking? Also a good opportunity to clean > and grease bearings, replace rubber hoses, etc., if that all hasn't > already been done recently. > > But then, I'm an overkill kind of guy. If I go ahead and replace > everything while I'm in there, I don't have to take apart something > right after I just put it back together. > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 13:57:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast References: <3928A0B5-4489-415E-A01C-AEE73E43614E@verizon.net> On Sat, May 31, 2014 at 1:18 PM, Martin Secrest wrote: > > Should I turn both rotors? They aren't scored; if I turn them must I put in > new pads? If I recall,t he GT6 rotors are like Spitfire rotors - a solid disk without much extra thickness. May not be able to turn the warp out of it. I'd be tempted to replace rotors and pads, and make sure to evaluate the cause - is a caliper sticking? Also a good opportunity to clean and grease bearings, replace rubber hoses, etc., if that all hasn't already been done recently. But then, I'm an overkill kind of guy. If I go ahead and replace everything while I'm in there, I don't have to take apart something right after I just put it back together. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 11:52:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY References: <29087932.873617.1401744154230.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> <538D7135.3060901@verizon.net> I may be the only one, and yes my car is heavily modified for performance, but I rather like the ambiance of the dim gages. yes, they are harder to read, and maybe not so showy perfect. I have another car with new, replacement gages, and they are bright. but there is just something I like about the tr6 cockpit, the wood dash, and those dim gages . . . . >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (Martin Secrest) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2014 11:55:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6? Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6? What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis? Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon footprint. Martin Secrest >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 19:27:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 and Monza ( the blown gasket saga) I know this has been talked about many times, but i can't get into the archives. Would some of you be willing to share your degree of satisfaction with the Monza system that everyone sells for the TR4? I have to replace the headers that came with the car as they are badly warped and not enough thickness to the flange to level off. I've long had an unused 4 in 1 header from Ebay maybe 15 years ago and thought I'd use that with a new pipe and muffler, Interesting about the current exhaust is that the pipe is only 1 5/8" ID, which always looked a bit small, (although the Monza is only 3/8" larger). My machine shop guy says that when increasing the flow via a larger pipe one sacrifices torque to gain revs at higher speeds. A smaller pipe conversely increases torque, which is what the original owner of this car would have wanted for his auto-crossing back in the 60's and 70's. Amazing what i don;t know. Anyway, would appreciate any comments, and thanks. Incidentally, best EBay price is $262 from a commercial seller. John >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 17:25:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor References: <002301cf7bd6$7a879f40$6f96ddc0$@ukpips.org.uk> <4C.90.25046.B02B8835@cdptpa-oedge03> I googled the bete noire reference and found a nice cake recipe. My wife loved it. >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2014 10:20:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6? References: Martin, A converter will have no affect on CO2. It will convert CO to CO2 I think. It may alter other gasses such as SO2 or SO3 and some Nitrogen compounds. But what goes in the converter comes out, maybe in a different form but the same elements. The only way I know of altering elements is by fusion and fission. Also, it will get very hot during operation. It will require a heat shield of some sort. The best bet is to keep your engine in top tune IMO. Bob On 06/03/2014 11:55 AM, Martin Secrest wrote: > Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6? > > What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis? > > Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon > footprint. > > Martin Secrest >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 07:59:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6? > A converter will have no affect on CO2. It will convert CO to CO2 I > think. Right. Also HC to H2O + CO2; and NOx to N2 + O2 (if you have a "3-way" catalyst). > Also, it will get very hot during operation. It will require a heat > shield of some sort. In order to achieve the reactions, it also needs free oxygen in the input. That means your engine has to either run leaner than normal (so not all the oxygen is consumed by combustion), or you need a air injection system to feed O2 to the converter. My point being that it isn't just a bolt-on device. > The best bet is to keep your engine in top tune IMO. Basically anything that reduces fuel consumption will also lower your "carbon footprint". Randall >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: greg.meythaler at intel.com (Meythaler, Greg) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 16:15:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 153 References: They're caused by hot spots, but typically you get hot spots because you are using to soft a pad that gets over heated or doesn't have the right heat range. Here is a great reference on the subject: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brak e-disc-and-other-myths -greg ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 08:31:03 -0700 From: "Jonas Payne" To: "'Martin Secrest'" , Subject: Re: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast Look for heat marks/discoloration on your rotors. These "hot spots" are work hardened metal and can cause a pulsation. If you have them, they can't be machined out. They can be caused by using a pad that is too hard. I run the softest pads I can find on all my cars. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 ----- >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 18:03:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6? References: others will correct me if I'm wrong - all a cat does I believe is change carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide. I think there are better ways to reduce your carbon footprint. a big one is to drive an old car and save all the energy utilized in the construction of a new vehicle! -----Original Message----- From: Martin Secrest Sent: Tuesday, June 3, 2014 10:55 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6? Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6? What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis? Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon footprint. Martin Secrest >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 21:16:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRactor Engine Timing After rebuilding my TR4A engine I've been playing around with the engine timing (advance/retard) to dial in the best performance. The engine has the Moss cam & 87 MM pistons, but everything else is stock. Stock HS6's, stock distributor with Pertronix, new gears and timing chain. The vacuum advance is attached. I never seem to be able to get the full range performance I would expect. I can get low end to be great but the top end suffers. Redial it and the top end is great but low end is sluggish. I dont think the carbs are it, as I've changed to richer needles, made it richer/leaner, and it didn't help. I did learn that a richer mixture seems to hide timing differences. And I got to thinking that the TR4A distributor has an advance limit built into it and was wondering if going to a more full range dizzy would give me that full range performance. Shouldn't the dizzy advance and the cam specs match up? Why the limited advance anyway? BTW, the weather is absolutely bitchin to be driving with top down every day here in San Diego. I'm loving it. Johnnie 67 TR4A >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 16:03:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] carpet snap layout Does anybody have a diagram showing the carpet snap layout for a TR3? I replaced the floors in mine, and the old ones were too far gone to make any sense of it. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 ----- >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2014 22:31:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] What fun. At the moment, there are 36,753 pending emails on Team.Net waiting to be delivered to subscribers. Most are to Yahoo, AOL, Comcast, Hotmail addresses. You know, small obscure operations. This DMARC stuff is killing me. I wonder how many folks, if any, will actually see this message? mjb. >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2014 00:01:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] What fun. References: <53914430.1080803@bradakis.com> Made it through to me... Tony Drews At 11:31 PM 6/5/2014, Mark J Bradakis wrote: >At the moment, there are 36,753 pending emails on Team.Net waiting >to be delivered to subscribers. >Most are to Yahoo, AOL, Comcast, Hotmail addresses. You know, small >obscure operations. This DMARC >stuff is killing me. > >I wonder how many folks, if any, will actually see this message? > >mjb. > >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: malcolm at ipatch.ca (Malcolm) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 22:15:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6? References: I'm going to do some armchair engineering here, so please feel free to research and refute anything I claim. While you most certainly can retrofit the catalytic converter, it's not the only requirement by far. In order for the catalytic convert to do its job, there needs to be sufficient oxygen in the exhaust to burn up (catalyze...) the extra hydrocarbons. The converter should be located close to the engine (so that it heats up) and as far from the passengers as you can (because it gets hot). If your mixture is too rich then the catalytic converter will overheat. I had an old Ford wagon that had that happen - the converter got bright red. Could be a fire hazard! So, by my speculation, you should have at least an oxygen sensor and some means of automatically adjusting the mixture to compensate / ensure that the converter is working. You may also need an air pump to feed fresh air into the exhaust to make the converter work. A fascinating problem, but is it worth the effort? Also, consider that the manufacture of your new catalytic converter may have involved the mining and refinement of some heavy metals. Will your driving and reduced hydrocarbon output actually offset that? Personally, I would get the mixture adjustment components working first - and test your car after a good tune-up to determine how bad it really is. I suspect that you will affect your carbon footprint more with careful driving and proper maintenance than you would by adding more hardware to the system. M On Tue, Jun 3, 2014 at 8:55 AM, Martin Secrest wrote: > Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6? > > What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis? > > Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon > footprint. > > Martin Secrest > >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 16:58:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 Headrest References: You can read how to do it here......... http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/15-mechanical-repair-maintenance-a-restoration/249244-Headrest-removal#281896 Very difficult with the covers on the seat. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ 1975 Mimosa TR6 TBI, 5 Speed, LSD, CVJs >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 07:10:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6? References: The products of hydrocarbon combustion are water and carbon dioxide. If you want less CO2, as others have said, burn less gasoline. Drive less and more economically. Tune the car well including tire pressures. Air pollution is much more than CO2, and when catalysts were developed it was more about photochemical smog than anything else (CO2 and global warming was being talked about by a few academics, not the population at large). Original two-way catalytic convertors manage incomplete combustion products (unburned hydrocarbons, HC, and carbon monoxide, CO). Modern three-way catalytic convertors in addition manage oxides of nitrogen (NOX), a component of smog and acid rain that results from lean mixtures and hot combustion. Catalytic convertors don't change the fundamental equation that CO2 comes from burning fuel. Don 1962 TR3B TSF202L On 6/3/14, Martin Secrest wrote: > Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6? > > What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis? > > Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon > footprint. > > Martin Secrest > >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 14:22:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] goodparts roller bearing clutch mechanism anyone using this? Ibm thinking of getting it. >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 17:19:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRactor Engine Timing References: <002e01cf8074$f8f54920$eadfdb60$@rr.com> Hi John, Funny you should post this as I have just about finished by TR4A here in Cincinnati and did a bit of struggling with the tuning also. I have the BPNW 270 degree cam and 87mm pistons but I also have a RevingtonTR 4into1header and mating exhaust and on of those 123 distributors I bought from Darrell many moons ago when he went to Weber carbs. That distributor is kind of pricey now but in my opinion, it really delivers. It has 17 different advance curves in it. Mine is set to have about 10 degrees at 1,000 RPM, a little over 22 degrees at 2,000 RPM and about 31 degrees at 4,500 RPM. I am running 93 octain fuel and have been carefull to listen for pinging during long pulls up hills and such and the engine seems to be tolerating the current timing settings. I only have about 400 miles on the engine so far so I am not pushing it too much but I know it pulls real strong from about 2,000RPM to as high as I dare go now (about 4,000RPM very occasionally). I played around with the needles too, going one step richer but the plugs fouled so I went back to stock and just did a 400 mile tune up and the plug electrodes were tan and the surrounding plug was black. Tuning this thing was way different that any other type of engine I ever fooled with I can tell you that. I found that the float levels really affect the mixture also as you are adjusting the level of fuel at the main jet/needle. Lots of things to think about.. Can you get someone to rev up the engine while you have a set back timing light on it? If so, what do you see timing wise at the 1,000, 2,000 and 4500? Just curious as I think you are right in the problem being timing or more acurately advance related.. Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- aFrom: "John & Pat Donnelly" To: "'Triumphs'" Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 12:16 AM Subject: [TR] TRactor Engine Timing > After rebuilding my TR4A engine I've been playing around with the engine > timing (advance/retard) to dial in the best performance. The engine has > the > Moss cam & 87 MM pistons, but everything else is stock. Stock HS6's, stock > distributor with Pertronix, new gears and timing chain. The vacuum advance > is attached. > > I never seem to be able to get the full range performance I would expect. > I > can get low end to be great but the top end suffers. Redial it and the top > end is great but low end is sluggish. > > I dont think the carbs are it, as I've changed to richer needles, made it > richer/leaner, and it didn't help. I did learn that a richer mixture seems > to hide timing differences. > > And I got to thinking that the TR4A distributor has an advance limit built > into it and was wondering if going to a more full range dizzy would give > me > that full range performance. Shouldn't the dizzy advance and the cam specs > match up? > > Why the limited advance anyway? > > BTW, the weather is absolutely bitchin to be driving with top down every > day > here in San Diego. I'm loving it. > > Johnnie > > 67 TR4A >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 08:18:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY References: <29087932.873617.1401744154230.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> Yes.... with caveats: - They won't fit in the speedo/tach bulb holes if you still have the green diffuser in the gauge. The bulb is too long and hits the diffuser - They CAN NOT be used for the "idiot" lights or turn signals. LEDs are one way and for the those lights the current needs to flow both ways. Moss also sells bulbs like these and I called tech support about the idiot light problem. They agreed that they won't work and that the item should be noted as such in the catalog..... they also acknowledged getting support calls from people who have used them in the idiot lights. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ 1975 Mimosa TR6 TBI, 5 Speed, LSD, CVJs -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 5:22 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY Anyone out there purchased and is using these LED instrument lights listed on EBAY? http://www.ebay.com/itm/300923024335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Craig 72 Triumph TR6 >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2014 20:11:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: LED instrument lights on EBAY I ran into the same issue Bob mentions when I tried to use the big LEDS, I did however end up figuring out how to get the LED to work for the turn signal indicator (with a little help from my internet friends) it wasn't too hard or expensive, and since I couldn't really see the incandescent in the bright sun, and I can see the LED, I thought was worth the effort: Take one of these: http://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm (scroll down to E10 Screw Base 4 Led Focused Lens Led Bulbs) Put one of these inline to the LED: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062581 And go from this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3om56PrC9Rs to this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B80m6kPyero > > Greg Lemon >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2014 12:04:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Bonnet References: The release cable is fixed to the bonnet release bracket with a push on clip. If the clip and cable come off the bracket the cable release won't work. (ask me how I know, etc.) I managed to release the latch from underneath the car. Had a sore and scraped arm afterwards. I then wired the cable and clip to the bracket. It can be done so it's barley noticeable. I've just thought that you might be able to pull the release and from inside the footwell also pull on the outer cable thereby shortening it. If the cable clamp has come loose or is broken, then that's another issue. Allen > I have a few problems of late with my '64 Triumph, one being the > brake lines. > However, yesterday, when I wanted to check the fluid level, the > bonnet appears > stuck and wont open. How can I easily determine whether the cable is > broken. > Since the release lever does not open it, is there an alternative to > opening > it? How frustrating with nice driving weather, and I can't in the TR4. >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd) Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2014 11:13:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake light woes Guys, Here I am all ready to go to the TRA National meeting and a light check on the TR3B reveals no brake lights at all. Everything else is normal. The TR4 is a little better, brake lights come on if you stomp on the pedal. No I do not have any spare switches. If I can get a couple of those by Tuesday do any of you know if I will need to bleed the brakes after I install them? Any other ideas on what to check?? Thanks, Darrell >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2014 18:28:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] carpet snap layout References: On Wed, 4 Jun 2014, at 4:03 PM, Jonas Payne wrote: > > > Does anybody have a diagram showing the carpet snap layout for a TR3? > > I replaced the floors in mine, and the old ones were too far gone to make > any sense of it. > > Jonas Payne > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > 702.882.6711 The front carpet is actually a rubber mat. Whether you have the original or a replacement, they have the snaps already installed. I think your best bet is to line the rubber mat up to fit the contours of the transmission tunnel, the firewall and inner sills and place the studs under the snaps on the rubber mat. Keith Stewart keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 10:04:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake light woes References: Darrell- My guess is you are running Dot5 in your system? That is what I think created the same problem in my 3A - brakes would only light if I stomped on them, sensitivity was lost. My solution was switching to a mechanical switch mounted under the dash. I think you can pull that switch quickly and not need a complete rebleed, but of course plan on bleeding just in case. But if you do use Dot5, expect this to be a recurring issue based on what I've seen. Randy >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: Ronald.Griffing at comcast.net (Ronald.Griffing at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 14:16:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] What fun. References: <53914430.1080803@bradakis.com> <20140608053612.72BD42585472@autox.team.net> Mark, As one of the "Comcasters"... Since June 1st I have 11 [TR] messages in my inbox. None of them are from you. I did not see the original of the message you sent below. Ron Griffing '62 TR4 CT1550L ~'60 Morris Minor 1000 MA2S3L791631 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" To: "Mark J Bradakis" , "Triumphs" Sent: Thursday, June 5, 2014 10:01:49 PM Subject: Re: [TR] What fun. Made it through to me... Tony Drews At 11:31 PM 6/5/2014, Mark J Bradakis wrote: >At the moment, there are 36,753 pending emails on Team.Net waiting >to be delivered to subscribers. >Most are to Yahoo, AOL, Comcast, Hotmail addresses. You know, small >obscure operations. This DMARC >stuff is killing me. > >I wonder how many folks, if any, will actually see this message? > >mjb. >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 07:50:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Brake light woes (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) The switch is available from Napa Auto parts in both the spade terminal (ECH SL147) and screw terminal types (ECH SL144). My local staore has both in stock. They must fit American cars as well. I have changed these several times without having to bleed the brakes but you need to be fast when you swap the two switches. Edward Hamer petaluma CA >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 09:14:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake light woes References: I think if you remove the reservoir cap, stretch plastic wrap over the opening and then replace the cap, essentially closing the vent hole to create a vacuum, you will not lose any fluid. Don't forget to remove the plastic wrap when you finish the replacement of the switch :-). Even if you do lose some fluid, it's up stream of the wheel cylinders, so most likely you won't have to bleed the system. Bob -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of darrell floyd Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2014 8:14 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Brake light woes Guys, Here I am all ready to go to the TRA National meeting and a light check on the TR3B reveals no brake lights at all. Everything else is normal. The TR4 is a little better, brake lights come on if you stomp on the pedal. No I do not have any spare switches. If I can get a couple of those by Tuesday do any of you know if I will need to bleed the brakes after I install them? Any other ideas on what to check?? Thanks, Darrell >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 16:54:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Brake light woes Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 09:14:09 -0700 From: "Kinderlehrer" To: "'darrell floyd'" , Subject: Re: [TR] Brake light woes I think if you remove the reservoir cap, stretch plastic wrap over the opening and then replace the cap, essentially closing the vent hole to create a vacuum, you will not lose any fluid. Don't forget to remove the plastic wrap when you finish the replacement of the switch :-). Even if you do lose some fluid, it's up stream of the wheel cylinders, so most likely you won't have to bleed the system. Bob Hi List! After you are done, squeeze the front brake pads back against the back of the caliper. This will 'BACKFLUSH' the air bubbles back on top of the reservoir. -Cosmo Kramer >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 18:04:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: LED instrument lights on EBAY References: <83FE11EAF59440C6A64A9A03CB797324@livingroompc> Could you repeat the Radio Shack link? I clicked on it an Radio Shack is not able to find the part. I even searched for 2062581 which I guess is the part number. Roger On 06/07/2014 08:11 PM, Greg Lemon wrote: > I ran into the same issue Bob mentions when I tried to use the big > LEDS, I > did however end up figuring out how to get the LED to work for the turn > signal indicator (with a little help from my internet friends) it > wasn't too > hard or expensive, and since I couldn't really see the incandescent in > the > bright sun, and I can see the LED, I thought was worth the effort: > > Take one of these: > > http://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm > > (scroll down to E10 Screw Base 4 Led Focused Lens Led Bulbs) > > Put one of these inline to the LED: > > http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062581 > > And go from this: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3om56PrC9Rs > > to this: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B80m6kPyero >> >> Greg Lemon >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: lherault at verizon.net (Ron L'Herault) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 10:29:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 159 References: Today's Topics: 1. Re: TR4 Bonnet (Allen Hess) 2. Brake light woes (darrell floyd) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- RE: the Bonnet. Do you get resistance or is the cable completely loose? If you get resistance, have someone push on the hood over the latch area while you pull the cable. RE: Brake light switches. If you can get to the areas where wires attach and/or to where the actuator plunger goes into the switch, spray in some contact cleaner. It's a spray deoxidizing material that cleans off contacts. You can get it at places like "Radio Shack." Ron L >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 09:12:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake light woes References: <002401cf8659$58256210$08702630$@net> if you get speedbleeders, bleeding is very easy. http://www.speedbleeder.com/ >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: binduni at gmail.com (Brian Induni) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 07:34:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake light woes Not sure I follow the logic of the Dot 5 fluid - I've used this in at least a dozen cars I've restored and have never had an issue because of it. I have, however, learned that the mechanical pressure switch is a finicky bugger, and have also learned that if I fill the pressure inlet with fluid, it will push the air out that is trapped in there. Remember, if you have air in your brake lines, the brakes don't work so well. Same goes for the switch. You need to "bleed" the air out of it before installing it. I'm not claiming that the switch works exactly like a mech switch, but pretty close. If there is enough pressure to engage the brakes, the lights should come on. Of course, this is assuming the switch is new, which is an absolute must! Brian >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 12:37:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake light woes References: I'm not sure there is logic involved, but there is some evidence - 3 cars in my club, including mine have experienced this. It doesn't make a lot of sense to me, but it seems too coincidental to have switches fail completely or become much less sensitive to pedal pressure to stop working, and its been after a switch to Dot 5. Dot 4 flushing/refresh, typical maintenance etc and I don't know of an issue. Possibly its related to having some air trapped in the switch, but in my thinking that would just lead to a spongy pedal feel, not failure - pressure would be transmitted in the switch through the air too. In my case I was still using an older switch so possibly the newer Napa or equivalent replacement might behave better. > Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 07:34:18 -0700 > From: binduni at gmail.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Brake light woes > > Not sure I follow the logic of the Dot 5 fluid - I've used this in at least > a dozen cars I've restored and have never had an issue because of it. I > have, however, learned that the mechanical pressure switch is a finicky > bugger, and have also learned that if I fill the pressure inlet with fluid, > it will push the air out that is trapped in there. Remember, if you have > air in your brake lines, the brakes don't work so well. Same goes for the > switch. You need to "bleed" the air out of it before installing it. I'm not > claiming that the switch works exactly like a mech switch, but pretty > close. If there is enough pressure to engage the brakes, the lights should > come on. > > Of course, this is assuming the switch is new, which is an absolute must! > > Brian >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 14:29:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3? I was looking for some TR3 items in the UK on eBay and I came across a used copy of Bill Piggott's "Original TR2/3/3A" offered at $625.00. Can't believe it, how's that possible? Dave Willner 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of Emoticon9.gif] >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 16:03:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3? References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107> Just "Google" the title and you'll see worse! Sadly, I remember when a decent TR2/3/3A "driver" cost less than the asking price of some copies of this book! :( --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: italyfound at gmail.com (Italyfound) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2014 08:01:55 +0200 Subject: [TR] Triumph Club Quick question on a club in Michigan...... Is anyone familiar with the Detroit Triumph Sports Car Club? Is this club still active. I have been trying to contact them but have received no response to emails... Thx, Alex Manzo 59 TR3A 72 TR6 00 Fiat Barchetta >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: perryfly at gmail.com (Perry Hammock) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 21:33:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Clutch Taper Pin Removal Perhaps I finally have something to contribute today after removing the transmission in my TR3A I found the clutch fork taper pin was broken at the threads. read up on the remedies suggested, ecch. I cleaned up the area, and tried to think of another way. I got my 1/4 sheet vibrating sander, wedged the grease fitting on the cross shaft between the platen and the body and let it vibrate the assembly. After about a minute or so, the pin fell out with out any other encouragement Bob's your Uncle! That was easy, and the beer tasted so wonderful. Just a suggestion next time you face the same dilemma. Perry Hammock 1960 TR3A O >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2014 08:49:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3? References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107> Tell me when one sells for that price, and then I'll be impressed. It takes nothing to ask a crazy amount. Do you have a link to the listing? I can't find it... Don On 6/13/14, davewillner wrote: > I was looking for some TR3 items in the UK on eBay and I came across a used > copy of Bill Piggott's "Original TR2/3/3A" offered at $625.00. Can't > believe > it, how's that possible? > > Dave Willner > 59 TR3A > 70 MGB > 70 BSA 441 VS >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2014 12:23:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 rotors I've got a 1957 TR3, the first year the car had disc brakes. The rotors are shots and I wanted to replace them. I learned some time back that the cars brakes were not original. The pads, shoes, front calipers and rear cylinders all seemed to be from a TR4. I ordered parts from Moss, including 10 3/4" rotors. Unfortunately, after getting them and mounting one, I find that the old rotors are 10 1/4", and the calipers don't fit. Anyone know what takes a 10 1/4" rotor? TR6 maybe? -- George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com 1957 Triumph TR3 1961 Jaguar Mark 2 1975 Triumph TR6 1997 Land Rover Discovery >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: glevit1 at msn.com (glevit1) Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2014 15:08:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake Switch Hard to engage with silicone fluid Follow link for discussion of hydralic switch with silicone fluid. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et119a.htm Follow link for this swith which spe if it's that it can be used with silicone fluid and operates on low pressure of 20 to 50 psi Gerry http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SW-32 >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 23:37:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] Brake light woes > Of course, this is assuming the switch is new, which is an absolute must! So, you have to replace the switch every time you use the brakes? I've used DOT 5 for several decades now, and I love it. The original brake light switch in my previous TR3A (which was converted in 1985 or so) lasted a long time, but eventually failed in just the manner described. It would still work if the pressure was high enough, but the pressure required kept getting higher and higher until even a fairly hard stop would not light the brake lights. Not a Good Thing. Several replacements from various sources (including a repro switch from Moss and a Ford replacement from FLAPS) went the same way in fairly short order (less than a year for each one, some in only a few weeks). Changing to a mechanical switch solved the problem permanently. Well, almost permanently. I did have one problem where the reservoir was leaking a tiny amount, and the fluif ran down the pedal and got into the switch ... causing a similar failure in a mechanical switch! The moral seems clear, DOT 5 and switch contacts do not get along! A post-mortem on the switch showed moisture along the shaft, which felt like DOT 5, and a hard black substance on the contacts, which I now believe to be silicon from burned DOT 5. But having been pushed into it, I do rather like having brake lights that come on _before_ braking starts, rather than after. With the mechanical switch, they come on as soon as I put my foot on the pedal, instead of waiting until the pedal has moved far enough to build pressure in the system. Randall >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (Triumph) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 09:20:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3? References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107> I just typed "Original Triumph TR2/3/3A" in Google and the first listing was from Amazon. They show 11 used from $299.95 and 4 new from $614.48 so there is something going on. Other sites seem to support this high price also. Bob Maassel Fort Wayne, IN 1959 TR3A tr3abobm77 at frontier.com >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 10:48:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake light woes Hey Guys, I did get a switch from Napa, the only one they had in the general area last Tuesday and put it in the 3B, the lights worked well but I carried thru with a brake bleed just to be sure. The Four improved some after a brake bleed so I just took that one to TRA. Going to put a new switch in her shortly. Yes I guess the Dot 5 is ruining the switches. The 3b switch is only a few years old. Some say the Napa switches are better? Cheers, Darrell >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 09:37:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3? References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107> I'm pretty sure that there are often items listed on eBay that are purely money laundering. There's a particular blank journal that my wife uses, usually sold for about $20, and we once found one of them listed for $16,000. Or this reference work (used in my work) that is available for about $300, here listed for $2,462.63: http://r.ebay.com/LnbgWY But $625 for Piggott's book probably isn't enough to justify anything illegal, it's more likely someone just trying to test the market. On Fri, June 13, 2014 13:29, davewillner wrote: > I was looking for some TR3 items in the UK on eBay and I came across a used > copy of Bill Piggott's "Original TR2/3/3A" offered at $625.00. Can't believe > it, how's that possible? > > Dave Willner > 59 TR3A > 70 MGB > 70 BSA 441 VS >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 14:06:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3? References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107> The real question is "is anyone buying?" There is also a used TR3 nose emblem that has been there for months at only $424.00 + shipping, no takers. >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 16:36:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dzus question After removing the stanchion plates from the front scuttle, I see that one of the "S"-shaped pieces (to which the Dzus bolt attaches) has snapped. I remember somewhere seeing these pieces new, but I cannot seem to find them. The guy at Moss Motors didn't even know what I was talking about. Does anyone have advice on how I could get my hands on one? As an aside, is anyone else getting frustrated with Moss? Seems that recently I have had so many issues: wrong parts sent, broken stuff, sales reps not having a clue... Were that everything worked as well as this list (Hi, Mark !) Andrew Uprichard. >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 19:23:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3? References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107> I have a nice copy of that book. Anyone want to give me $100 for it and flip it for a profit? Greg G. Osseo, MN >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 20:02:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3? References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107> Do you think people will actually pay anywhere near those asking prices for the books?, I know when I was looking the the equivalent book for the TR4-6 they were asking in the $100 or more range, I eventually found one on E-bay Canada for about $20 and pounced, but don't know if there are such bargains anymore. But I can't imagine paying that kind of money for a recently published book that retailed for less than a tenth that a few years ago even if I did have that kind of money to spend on such a book. Greg Lemon >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 22:00:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets hi. Ibve got these gaskets that are supposed to go with my 57 TR3. http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ its been an on again, off again kind of restoration, and I was hoping someone could tell me where these go. thanks! >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 18:16:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake light woes References: <20140613233738.SPGRW.11668.root@cdptpa-web27> On the subject of brake light switches... this is the mechanical switch I added on my other (non-TR) British car: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5DILY/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item I left the hydraulic switch in place (which has not failed despite my using DOT5) and added the above switch with a simple metal bracket in the footwell operated by pedal arm movement. I had no problems with the hydraulic switch but do like that the mechanical switch operates the brake lights with only the slightest pedal movement - which may happen well in advance of serious braking. Looking at the TR3A pedal box I think that same switch might fit into the hole in the front lip of the box to be actuated by the upper tip of the pedal arm (very similar to a TR4 switch). Otherwise, an interior bracket may be needed. Yeah, I know the usuals carry mechanical switches but I have heard mixed results with those (esp the white plastic version) whereas this metal version has been used by quite a few LBC owners with success. Geo On Fri, Jun 13, 2014 at 4:37 PM, Randall wrote: > > Of course, this is assuming the switch is new, which is an absolute must! > > So, you have to replace the switch every time you use the brakes? > > I've used DOT 5 for several decades now, and I love it. The original > brake light switch in my previous TR3A (which was converted in 1985 or so) > lasted a long time, but eventually failed in just the manner described. It > would still work if the pressure was high enough, but the pressure required > kept getting higher and higher until even a fairly hard stop would not > light the brake lights. Not a Good Thing. > > Several replacements from various sources (including a repro switch from > Moss and a Ford replacement from FLAPS) went the same way in fairly short > order (less than a year for each one, some in only a few weeks). > > Changing to a mechanical switch solved the problem permanently. Well, > almost permanently. I did have one problem where the reservoir was leaking > a tiny amount, and the fluif ran down the pedal and got into the switch ... > causing a similar failure in a mechanical switch! The moral seems clear, > DOT 5 and switch contacts do not get along! A post-mortem on the switch > showed moisture along the shaft, which felt like DOT 5, and a hard black > substance on the contacts, which I now believe to be silicon from burned > DOT 5. > > But having been pushed into it, I do rather like having brake lights that > come on _before_ braking starts, rather than after. With the mechanical > switch, they come on as soon as I put my foot on the pedal, instead of > waiting until the pedal has moved far enough to build pressure in the > system. > > Randall > >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 11:06:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3? References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107> On 6/16/14, 6:20 AM, Triumph wrote: > I just typed "Original Triumph TR2/3/3A" in Google and the first > listing was from Amazon. They show 11 used from $299.95 and 4 new from > $614.48 so there is something going on. Other sites seem to support > this high price also. > geeeezzzz Maybe I should sell my copy. TeriAnn >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 07:22:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: LED instrument lights on EBAY References: <83FE11EAF59440C6A64A9A03CB797324@livingroompc> <539A320E.4020102@rmi.net> Try searching for 2062580 (I think that might be the catalog page number) or search for "rectifiers". Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2014 7:05 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: LED instrument lights on EBAY Could you repeat the Radio Shack link? I clicked on it an Radio Shack is not able to find the part. I even searched for 2062581 which I guess is the part number. Roger >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 08:15:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets References: <428A233B85D14A38B1E29C96DC3CC6C5@Ranteer.local> Those look like the gaskets that are attached to the bottom side of the doors. There is a series of holes that accept special clips (TRF number 552901) that hold the seals in place. Note that the seal rolls up the leading edge of the door. I don't recognize the metal strip. Dave Massey 57 TR3 (and others) -----Original Message----- From: dave n To: triumphs Sent: Mon, Jun 16, 2014 11:48 pm Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets hi. Ibve got these gaskets that are supposed to go with my 57 TR3. http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ its been an on again, off again kind of restoration, and I was hoping someone could tell me where these go. thanks! >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 05:48:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets References: <428A233B85D14A38B1E29C96DC3CC6C5@Ranteer.local> Possibly door seals / draft seals? See item 19 here: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29160&SortOrder=410 And items 40 & 42 here: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29156 On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 8:00 PM, dave n wrote: > hi. > > Ib ve got these gaskets that are supposed to go with my 57 TR3. > > http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ > > its been an on again, off again kind of restoration, and I was hoping > someone > could tell me where these go. > > thanks! > >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 13:13:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets ---- dave n wrote: > hi. > > Ibve got these gaskets that are supposed to go with my 57 TR3. > > http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ > > its been an on again, off again kind of restoration, and I was hoping someone > could tell me where these go. They look to me like the water seals that go along the bottom of the doors; plus a short section where the top of the door meets the scuttle. Unfortunately, they might also be the ones that don't fit very good. The originals were somehow molded with varying density, so the section that goes into the clips on the door was much firmer than the lip that goes against the body; allowing the clip to hold while the rest of the seal crushed to fit. Many if not all of the seals available today have the firmer density all the way, so they don't crush and hold the door open slightly. Good Luck, Randall >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 23:29:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Clutch Taper Pin Removal References: Way to go, Perry! Thanks for passing that on. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Perry Hammock" To: Sent: Friday, June 13, 2014 9:33 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Clutch Taper Pin Removal > Perhaps I finally have something to contribute > today after removing the transmission in my TR3A > I found the clutch fork taper pin was broken at the threads. > read up on the remedies suggested, ecch. > > I cleaned up the area, and tried to think of another way. > I got my 1/4 sheet vibrating sander, wedged the grease fitting on the > cross > shaft between the platen and the body and let it vibrate the assembly. > After about a minute or so, the pin fell out with out any other > encouragement > Bob's your Uncle! That was easy, and the beer tasted so wonderful. > > Just a suggestion next time you face the same dilemma. > > Perry Hammock > 1960 TR3A O > >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 16:08:27 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] K&N air filters, oil, and cleaner Don't know if anyone on the list will see this, but I will send anyway. I have a set of used K&N Air filters, oil, and cleaner on Ebay. Item number 221463677155 . If anyone is interested (Financial interest), please contact me at "TheNicholls at Verizon.Net". Thanks, Craig 72 Triumph TR6 >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 19:23:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Lip Type Crank Seal I have a Triumph Renown that leaks oil out the rear seal at the rate of about a quart every 20 miles. It is really something. I am thinking of going through the engine next winter. Moss charges about $200 for a lip type rear seal conversion kit. I see something similar on Ebay for $99. Has anyone tried one of these? Is it the same? http://www.ebay.com/itm/151290877125?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m 1423.l2649 TIA, Bill in Tehachapi >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: pethier7 at gmail.com (Philip Ethier) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 00:20:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] K&N air filters, oil, and cleaner References: <19443631.439973.1403039307084.JavaMail.root@vznit170126> I saw it. On Tue, Jun 17, 2014 at 4:08 PM, wrote: > Don't know if anyone on the list will see this, but I will send anyway. > > > I have a set of used K&N Air filters, oil, and cleaner on Ebay. Item > number 221463677155 . > > > If anyone is interested (Financial interest), please contact me at > "TheNicholls at Verizon.Net". > > > Thanks, > > > Craig > 72 Triumph TR6 -- pethier at comcast.net still works also Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl http://www.mnautox.com >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 14:28:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake light woes > I left the hydraulic switch in place (which has not failed > despite my using > DOT5) and added the above switch with a simple metal bracket in the > footwell operated by pedal arm movement. FWIW, here's a shot of my bracket & switch on the TR3. http://tinyurl.com/of5qowk Someday I'll "restore" that area and clean things up a bit, this was a quick and dirty to get the car on the road in time for TRfest 2009. > Looking at the TR3A pedal box I think that same switch might > fit into the > hole in the front lip of the box to be actuated by the upper > tip of the > pedal arm (very similar to a TR4 switch). Probably not the same switch, but I found one at FLAPS that would fit in that position on my previous TR3A. However, the TR3 has pedal stops in those holes (as original), and I didn't really like having the obviously wrong switch hanging out under the hood anyway. Hence the above setup (which is invisible unless you crawl under the dash). > Yeah, I know the usuals carry mechanical switches but I have > heard mixed > results with those (esp the white plastic version) whereas this metal > version has been used by quite a few LBC owners with success. Again FWIW, the mixed metal/plastic switch shown in the above shot lasted less than 2 years from installation. I'm currently running one of the white plastic ones from TRF, and it has been working fine since 2010. Randall >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2014 20:26:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] List up and running? I haven't received anything in several days. Carl 1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO Tampa, FL >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling) Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2014 11:27:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil My friend's TR6 is consuming oil. In addition, the #5 spark plug fouls regularly and needs to be cleaned or replaced to run smoothly again. I am guessing these two issues might be related... The oil fouling the plug... If that is the case, what is the most likely route for the oil problem? >From the cylinder head? Or from the rings? Creig Creig Houghtlaing 314-401-7817 St. Louis Triumph Owners Association www.sltoa.org >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes) Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2014 21:12:33 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Exhaust Pieces Would John DeLuca please send me the name and address of the source for stainless TR4A exhaust pieces he purchased. Many thanks! George >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 10:15:06 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil References: In the first instance, a compression test should indicate No5 being low. If so put a small amount of oil down the plug hole and do the test on this bore again. If it rises significantly then this would confirm the piston or piston rings are at fault. IMHO if the overall compressions on all cyls are low I am afraid its a major rebuild. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK On 22 June 2014 17:27, Creig Houghtaling wrote: > My friend's TR6 is consuming oil. In addition, the #5 spark plug fouls > regularly and needs to be cleaned or replaced to run smoothly again. I am > guessing these two issues might be related... The oil fouling the plug... > If that is the case, what is the most likely route for the oil problem? > From the cylinder head? Or from the rings? > > Creig > > Creig Houghtlaing 314-401-7817 > St. Louis Triumph Owners Association > www.sltoa.org >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:50:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil References: It has been a while since we have done a compression checkb& Thatbs a good thing to check. Thanks. >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 12:05:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] mounting trunk lid & spare tire cover gaskets.s In the past I have mounted the trunk ld gasket and spare tire cove gasket for my TR3A with adhesive. Eighteen years ago I used contact cement and the mounting was tedious and difficult. This time around I attempted to use 3M Super Strength trim adhesive. After three attempts yielding only partiel bonding results I decided to try a special plastic bonding agent I had bought for a difficult plastic bonding project. The product I used is Tech Bond. I found that I could put a few drops in the channel for the gasket and then push the gasket firmly down into the channel and get strong adhesion within second. I repaired the loose areas of the trunk lid gasket this way. Then for the spare tire cove gasket I began by cutting it to size and bonding the ends togethewr with two drops of Tech Bond. Then I placed the gasket into the channel the way it should fit and held it in place with strips of painters tape every foot or so. Then I would pull a section of the gasket out of the channel and place a few drops of Tech Bond on the gasket mounting surface. Then I would use a tongue depressor to push the gasket into the channel until it was firmly seated. I would hold the gasket in place for a few seconds and then repeat the process on another section. I had the spare tire cover gasket mounted in less than 30 minutes with no need for masking, or spraying adhesive, and no clean up. One word opf caution is do not get Teck Bond on your fingers and then touch the gasket or you will be glued to the gasket. The URL for Tech Bond is below: http://shop.tech-bond.net/Tech-Bond-Starter-Kits-for-your-repair-7001.htm Get the stater kit with the SI Blue adhesive. Also be careful about using the spray Activator as it will cause instantaneous bonding. I have no financial interest in the product. Best regards, Tom >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 14:10:00 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR3 Lip Type Crank Seal References: <1403144612.23053.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I would take a look at the www.tr4_racing.com web site. It contains details of a far better set up which retains the scroll, (a belt and braces set up.) The US agent is Joe Alexander, he is on the list. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:21:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Lip Type Crank Seal > Moss charges about $200 for a > lip type rear > seal conversion kit. I see something similar on Ebay for $99. > Has anyone tried > one of these? Is it the same? My suggestion would be to stay far, far away from the conversion that requires the scroll to be ground off. Numerous people have reported that the result leaked worse than the original (which can be made to work quite well if you use the updated mandrel dimensions instead of those shown in the manuals). One of our local club members had to have the crank replaced after a mistake was discovered in the instructions. (The instructions I got had been changed by hand twice!) If you want a lip type seal, the 'Viton' conversion offered (only) by TRF and ARE is much better, IMO. It doesn't require the scroll to be ground off, and actually keeps the scroll seal functional; adding the lip seal as a secondary seal. The only suggested crank mod is to polish the area between the scroll and flange. Note that the kit includes a mandrel made to the corrected dimensions. (I've heard reports that the one sold by Moss is wrong.) http://tinyurl.com/pfmoqw2 Honestly, though, a quart every 20 miles seems extreme. Are you certain it is the rear main seal and not one of the plugs on the block and/or head? Is the oil level correct? Randall >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 13:31:54 +0000 Subject: [TR] List up and running? References: <000001cf8db0$a20a2c90$e61e85b0$@verizon.net> DMARC has totally f'ed up mailing lists. We are using the Mailman utility as part of the VTR hosted service offered to affiliates for our club mailing lists and it is a mess. This may be the last straw before we just give up and move everything to Facebook. Stan >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 08:55:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Lip Type Crank Seal References: <1403144612.23053.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Bill - I have not done this but would be wary of the kits (Moss & ebay) that require grinding the crank. Some find this works out well for them but I recall some who had problems & the 'fix' is irreversible. Instead, I believe there is an alternative that does not modify the crank or (of course) the original style seal can be renewed. Okay, a search turns up this: http://www.the-vintage-racer.com/index.php/categoryhome/engine-components/product/53-vsk-t34 Geo >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 11:36:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Standard-Triumph Marque Day at Brooklands over the weekend The Standard Triumph Marque Day was held at Brooklands yesterday (June 22, 2014). http://www.standardmotorclub.org.uk/standard-triumph-marque-day.html Looks like it would have been fun to attend. That Dolomite tribute car would have been especially interesting. Lotsa pix here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/philip-smith/sets/72157645307413014/ >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2014 0:54:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil > > My friend's TR6 is consuming oil. In addition, the #5 spark plug fouls > > regularly and needs to be cleaned or replaced to run smoothly again. I am > > guessing these two issues might be related... The oil fouling the plug... > > If that is the case, what is the most likely route for the oil problem? > > From the cylinder head? Or from the rings? Unfortunately, the most likely explanation IMO is damage to the cylinder wall or piston. Might be just a broken ring, or badly worn valve guide, though. Rather than mess with a compression test (which can sometimes be misleading), I would go ahead and pull the head to check the valve. Your friend knows he has a problem, and he will need to pull the head anyway, even if the problem is rings/piston/cylinder wall. And it's worth checking the valves when the head is off even if they aren't the primary problem. Randall >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:30:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil References: Do a leak down test on it to determine whether it's the rings or the valves. Mine was burning lots of oil too - it was the rings and the valve guides. The oil scraper rings were seriously stuck in what appeared to be a carbon-concrete. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n) Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2014 16:12:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 interior (not tr3a) anyone who has a more or less correct tr3 b would you mind contacting me offline? I need some interior photos. thanks dave at ranteer.com >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:40:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3? > But $625 for Piggott's book probably isn't enough to justify > anything illegal, > it's more likely someone just trying to test the market. Agree. I believe it was PT Barnum that said there is one born every minute. And there seem to be several book sellers that speculate in this type of book, waiting for someone to come along that just has to have one, no matter the price. Someone asked for a link: http://tinyurl.com/kdedfy6 Randall >From triumph-bounces@autox.team.net From: italyfound at gmail.com (Italyfound) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2014 11:51:26 +0200 Subject: [TR] Test Is this server down? Email being rejected... Alex Manzo From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 20 14:00:49 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 694582584866 for ; Sat, 20 Sep 2014 14:00:49 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC4S1.hotmail.com (blu004-omc4s1.hotmail.com [65.55.111.140]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 676BA2580722 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Sat, 20 Sep 2014 14:00:23 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU406-EAS149 ([65.55.111.135]) by BLU004-OMC4S1.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Sat, 20 Sep 2014 13:03:19 -0700 References: <541DC98F.7050605@bradakis.com> From: James_ Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 13:03:14 -0700 To: Mark J Bradakis FILETIME=[EC374510:01CFD50D] Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Carb tuning Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Yup. Loosened the spring connectors clamps. I got them close finally. I'll take for a test drive (again) and see how the idle is and the dieseling is when I turn it off. Had a little run on last test. But the anti run on valve tested correctly. I may have them running a little rich now. But judging from the old 'lift the carb valve' test, the engine dies which says lean. I have the needles all but 3/4 turn rich! Hmm. Getting closer. bSent from my Atari 2600b > On Sep 20, 2014, at 11:38 AM, "Mark J Bradakis" wrote: > > James_ wrote: > >> The sync tool measures very different between the carbs. High number on the rear and lower on the front. >> That has always been an issue to get a proper reading exact between the two. > > > It shouldn't be that difficult to sync them. Are you loosening the clamps for both carbs from the center > linkage before trying to balance? > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jattr6@hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 20 16:25:41 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id BC4C625846C7 for ; Sat, 20 Sep 2014 16:25:41 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from bradakis.com (50-198-190-18-static.hfc.comcastbusiness.net [50.198.190.18]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 7DDF1258069D for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Sat, 20 Sep 2014 16:23:14 -0600 (MDT) Received: from bradakis.com (50-198-190-18-static.hfc.comcastbusiness.net [50.198.190.18]) by bradakis.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 239AD2C03CA for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Sat, 20 Sep 2014 16:26:09 -0600 (MDT) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 16:26:08 -0600 From: Mark J Bradakis User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:29.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/29.0 SeaMonkey/2.26.1 To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> References: <541DC98F.7050605@bradakis.com> Subject: Re: [6pack] Carb tuning Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net I'd check for leaks where the manifold mates to the head and at the carb gaskets. If you lived closer to Salt Lake City I'd say stop on by and I'll take a look. But the symptoms could be from an air leak. On a side note, nice to see the 6pack list is working. Not doing much car stuff today, trying to fill in all the missing months in the archive. Not that simple, as it turns out, but I am making some progress, I think. Click on the archive link below to see when the missing bits show up. Actually I did put new plugs in an old Land Rover this afternoon, not exactly an "L"BC, but mostly computer stuff this weekend. mjb. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 21 04:49:30 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id A4A542584858 for ; Sun, 21 Sep 2014 04:49:30 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from nm11-vm0.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com (nm11-vm0.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com [98.138.90.58]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 013922580870 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Sun, 21 Sep 2014 04:48:52 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [98.138.100.116] by nm11.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 21 Sep 2014 10:51:48 -0000 Received: from [98.138.88.234] by tm107.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 21 Sep 2014 10:51:48 -0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] by omp1034.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 21 Sep 2014 10:51:48 -0000 Received: (qmail 27525 invoked by uid 60001); 21 Sep 2014 10:51:48 -0000 s=s1024; t=1411296708; bh=frlz+JNNT4lu/WJdbegME5kj9b43AH5QCJ0oQBJGxlk=; h=References:Message-ID:Date:From:Reply-To:Subject:To:Cc:In-Reply-To:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=USXUYd6psK1mwGLSF/5logtmd+pNhfqmHctYoNozalhNePtETWx5BlTGKE+aeD8a1mR+6iQ3Dz5KGKCd7AAa1hLczWbgogPvTwf/GmE2z1w8LFL5Ii1ElK+FiyKIozz0q5AaqF0lvXx8kbZ2gl151fSTI6M2ZxSVUSPq1irophM= 26tHUII1BvF0V7H.9AHwuosVbEDqgig1zGz2UK93mpB6AVc.RpSxUnq0y5UD Kd0cQcthB5DysjHer1_hg15MTUmVb4QiZlmI91r_3c8VSaKlFAz9A0mSNLed 4KTT4fCr50uUtCQ45pC5au1qyrAnFnChd5aY4EyftCDZZ9.XxV5nT3EUHBHU EFyz1OKqhF31HHzbmG4XFXsNUTIj8kVsGGRlC.D3A6BObqNDxYZjFccKRMjG MIbJHWaIH6XOcLgYMH40VcToqK4JzzNy7Dazv6J1pojHl.J53o4fiJ85WoYN 7tm0LkadXZ9oWQ3.F6w8cN1ZinkaKDz2S5_EO3oN5flQIJJ9I8DlV4T4lgc1 SWVMvuj4c1gGXeD8AfVeXTUD7KyjkZCMDOPkxfazS0gjg0s6B9F5EHkHzfjG dqC6HMfqsj8CvvuB6o7osaXGcZiRSMgAOM79phOMKHH5Ip1a1Ykzz2dw3E10 BHMKIgkSw1Kj8opYNnODSZOtLP95kz3m8o7U8tt1fpxkCHbAyjUGu7R2JRyX sKYp08iUoSccckM3TzPQpdm6ZzJJZDfF0wEIr49X_e4kW1A-- Received: from [70.161.112.15] by web125506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com via HTTP; Sun, 21 Sep 2014 03:51:48 PDT SmFtZXMKCldoYXQgYXJlIHlvdSB1c2luZyBvbiB5b3VyIGxpZnQgdGVzdD8gCgoKVGhpcyBzaG91bGQgbm90IGJlIG1vcmUgdGhlbiBhIDEvMTYiLiBUcnkgdXNpbmcgYSAuMDMwICYgYSAuMDI1ICBmZWVsZXIgc3RyaXAgdG9nZXRoZXIgb3IgdHdvIC4wMzAncyBpZiB5b3UgaGF2ZSB0aGVtLiBXaGF0IGFyZSB5b3VyIHJlc3VsdHM_CgpEYWxlCgoKCl9fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fCiBGcm9tOiBKYW1lc18gPGphdHRyNkBob3RtYWlsLmNvbT4KVG86IE1hcmsgSiBCcmFkYWtpcyA8bWEBMAEBAQE- References: <541DC98F.7050605@bradakis.com> Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2014 03:51:48 -0700 From: Dale To: James_ , Mark J Bradakis Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Carb tuning Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net James What are you using on your lift test? This should not be more then a 1/16". Try using a .030 & a .025 feeler strip together or two .030's if you have them. What are your results? Dale ________________________________ From: James_ To: Mark J Bradakis Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2014 4:03 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Carb tuning Yup. Loosened the spring connectors clamps. I got them close finally. I'll take for a test drive (again) and see how the idle is and the dieseling is when I turn it off. Had a little run on last test. But the anti run on valve tested correctly. I may have them running a little rich now. But judging from the old 'lift the carb valve' test, the engine dies which says lean. I have the needles all but 3/4 turn rich! Hmm. Getting closer. bSent from my Atari 2600b > On Sep 20, 2014, at 11:38 AM, "Mark J Bradakis" wrote: > > James_ wrote: > >> The sync tool measures very different between the carbs. High number on the rear and lower on the front. >> That has always been an issue to get a proper reading exact between the two. > > > It shouldn't be that difficult to sync them. Are you loosening the clamps for both carbs from the center > linkage before trying to balance? > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jattr6@hotmail.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Sep 21 11:46:30 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B1E5F258486F for ; Sun, 21 Sep 2014 11:46:30 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC3S12.hotmail.com (blu004-omc3s12.hotmail.com [65.55.116.87]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id F3E74258076E for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Sun, 21 Sep 2014 11:46:23 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU406-EAS203 ([65.55.116.73]) by BLU004-OMC3S12.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Sun, 21 Sep 2014 10:49:20 -0700 References: <541DC98F.7050605@bradakis.com> <1411296708.42183.YahooMailNeo@web125506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: James_ Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2014 10:49:15 -0700 To: Dale FILETIME=[5EF75ED0:01CFD5C4] Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Carb tuning Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Oh. All my instructions say use a screw driver and lift 1/4"! I have a screwdriver that is exactly that and turned it sideways to get 1/4. Hmmm. Well yesterday I drove about 70 miles. Boy did the gas suck out. Wayyy too rich! I turned the needles back 1/2 turn but may need more. The plugs still look clean and this morning did not smell of gas. I had a little run on and one whooper of a backfire out the pipes when I got home and turned off the engine. Extra gas left over I suspect. But she ran awesome! No flat spots like before. I am learning after 22 years of owning this beauty! Hah. I have gotten it to run well but never super awesome. I am not a pro at tuning those suckas. Ugh. Getting there though. bSent from my Atari 2600b > On Sep 21, 2014, at 3:51 AM, "Dale" wrote: > > James > > What are you using on your lift test? > > This should not be more then a 1/16". Try using a .030 & a .025 feeler strip together or two .030's if you have them. What are your results? > > Dale > > From: James_ > To: Mark J Bradakis > Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> > Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2014 4:03 PM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Carb tuning > > Yup. Loosened the spring connectors clamps. I got them close finally. > I'll take for a test drive (again) and see how the idle is and the dieseling is when I turn it off. Had a little run on last test. But the anti run on valve tested correctly. > I may have them running a little rich now. But judging from the old 'lift the carb valve' test, the engine dies which says lean. I have the needles all but 3/4 turn rich! Hmm. > Getting closer. > > > bSent from my Atari 2600b > > > On Sep 20, 2014, at 11:38 AM, "Mark J Bradakis" wrote: > > > > James_ wrote: > > > >> The sync tool measures very different between the carbs. High number on the rear and lower on the front. > >> That has always been an issue to get a proper reading exact between the two. > > > > > > It shouldn't be that difficult to sync them. Are you loosening the clamps for both carbs from the center > > linkage before trying to balance? > > > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > 6pack@autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jattr6@hotmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch@yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 22 13:52:16 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 4FE752580BB0 for ; Mon, 22 Sep 2014 13:52:16 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from dnvrco-oedge-vip.email.rr.com (dnvrco-outbound-snat.email.rr.com [107.14.73.226]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id BB22D258097D for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Mon, 22 Sep 2014 13:51:41 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [67.249.131.108] ([67.249.131.108:43767] helo=[192.168.1.100]) by dnvrco-oedge01 (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 3.5.0.35861 r(Momo-dev:tip)) with ESMTP id 79/69-18326-E7E70245; Mon, 22 Sep 2014 19:54:38 +0000 Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 15:54:42 -0400 From: Bob Labuz User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/31.1.1 To: Triumphs List , 6pack@autox.team.net a=nXQKLQ0v+ANWqi+PIAtHAA==:117 a=nXQKLQ0v+ANWqi+PIAtHAA==:17 a=ayC55rCoAAAA:8 a=dZRF51mswLUA:10 a=HLqcXZHuz64A:10 a=uYRmwVSfly8A:10 a=IkcTkHD0fZMA:10 a=f8qcBMrUAAAA:8 a=AI1QzJcQrt3Ph90OBcQA:9 a=QEXdDO2ut3YA:10 a=bDQWsuzeQX8A:10 a=8hhYA8brqtUA:10 a=7M7E572vl9AA:10 Subject: [6pack] interesting find Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Hello, Was out for a walk today, too cold to ride a bike, and I found what I thought was an old coin that turned out to be a spark plug gap tool. About the size of a 1/2 dollar. Scale goes from .020 to .100 " and .5 to 25.5 MM. Called the "Gapper". Looks like it will fit on a key chain and the hole for the chain is used to open the gap. Always finding stuff while on a walk or run around the homestead. Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 22 14:05:08 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id A142E2580B03 for ; Mon, 22 Sep 2014 14:05:08 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from dfn.com (mail.dfn.com [74.116.128.7]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id CCB0E258097D; Mon, 22 Sep 2014 14:05:03 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [192.168.0.3] [216.223.227.106] by dfn.com with ESMTP (SMTPD-12.3.0.100) id a57e0000f38d9cdf; Mon, 22 Sep 2014 14:07:57 -0600 Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 14:07:13 -0600 From: Michael Porter User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.6.0 To: Bob Labuz , Triumphs List , 6pack@autox.team.net References: <54207E82.9000705@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] interesting find Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net On 9/22/2014 1:54 PM, Bob Labuz wrote: > Hello, > > Was out for a walk today, too cold to ride a bike, and I found what I > thought was an old coin that turned out to be a spark plug gap tool. > About the size of a 1/2 dollar. Scale goes from .020 to .100 " and .5 > to 25.5 MM. > Called the "Gapper". > > Looks like it will fit on a key chain and the hole for the chain is > used to open the gap. > These were, not all that long ago, incredibly common (I've got two different types somewhere in my toolbox, one with wire gauges around the circumference, and one with a sliding ramp around the "coin," and there was another circular type with little spades sticking out of different thicknesses). They've fallen out of favor with the now wide use of platinum-coated plugs, since they can easily scratch through the very thin coating of platinum on the center electrode, which causes the plug to fail prematurely. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 22 18:05:33 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id AE7B72584CB6 for ; Mon, 22 Sep 2014 18:05:33 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from p3plsmtpa11-01.prod.phx3.secureserver.net (p3plsmtpa11-01.prod.phx3.secureserver.net [68.178.252.102]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id DEF772584CA0; Mon, 22 Sep 2014 18:05:03 -0600 (MDT) Received: from 370Z ([76.184.172.222]) by p3plsmtpa11-01.prod.phx3.secureserver.net with id uQ7x1o0064oFfFQ01Q7yBf; Mon, 22 Sep 2014 17:07:59 -0700 From: "dave n" To: "Triumphs List" , <6pack@autox.team.net> References: <54207E82.9000705@adelphia.net> Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 19:08:43 -0500 Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] interesting find Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net yes, I have several . . . shows my age . . . -----Original Message----- From: Bob Labuz Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:54 PM To: Triumphs List ; 6pack@autox.team.net Subject: [TR] interesting find Hello, Was out for a walk today, too cold to ride a bike, and I found what I thought was an old coin that turned out to be a spark plug gap tool. About the size of a 1/2 dollar. Scale goes from .020 to .100 " and .5 to 25.5 MM. Called the "Gapper". Looks like it will fit on a key chain and the hole for the chain is used to open the gap. Always finding stuff while on a walk or run around the homestead. Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Sep 22 22:59:59 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0711B2584D36 for ; Mon, 22 Sep 2014 22:59:59 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC1S26.hotmail.com (blu004-omc1s26.hotmail.com [65.55.116.37]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0802A25843DC; Mon, 22 Sep 2014 22:59:27 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU406-EAS423 ([65.55.116.9]) by BLU004-OMC1S26.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Mon, 22 Sep 2014 22:02:25 -0700 References: <54207E82.9000705@adelphia.net> From: James_ Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 22:02:16 -0700 To: Bob Labuz FILETIME=[90BC1E60:01CFD6EB] Cc: Triumphs List , "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] interesting find Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net I have two and use them on my tr6. Are they rare now? Auto stores used to carry them in a bin at the register not too long ago. Maybe I am showing my age. >From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 09:54:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 Instruction Book Sorry if this is a silly question, but in the glove box of a TR3 I just bought, I found a blue booklet, 10" by 6", entitled "Triumph Sports Car Instruction Book, five shillings". The cover page says "TR2 First Edition" and it has a pull-out lubrication chart. The condition of the booklet makes me think it has to be a reprint. But I see them on eBay for crazy money., Question: how do I tell if this is a reprint or a national treasure which means I can retire early. Oh, wait a minute - I am retired..... Andrew Uprichard From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Sep 24 18:55:45 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 7AB3D2585014 for ; Wed, 24 Sep 2014 18:55:45 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC4S31.hotmail.com (blu004-omc4s31.hotmail.com [65.55.111.170]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6347D25845C1 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Wed, 24 Sep 2014 18:55:39 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU406-EAS68 ([65.55.111.135]) by BLU004-OMC4S31.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Wed, 24 Sep 2014 17:58:37 -0700 From: James_ Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 17:58:33 -0700 To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> FILETIME=[D72A7060:01CFD85B] Subject: [6pack] Checking vacuum pressure Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net I have read several things about check for vacuum pressure. I am clueless. I think I buy a vacuum gauge (somewhere) and connect to the intake manifold? Maybe with a T connector so the original hose is connected. I am not talking about syncing the carbs. Anyone have experience and point me to buying a proper gauge and how to connect it? I have a bleeder gauge with a trigger but I suspect this isn't what I need to use. Thanks. bSent from my Atari 2600b _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Sep 25 15:40:29 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C5A7025850C9 for ; Thu, 25 Sep 2014 15:40:29 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from nm11-vm4.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com (nm11-vm4.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com [98.138.91.171]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id F031825845D4 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Thu, 25 Sep 2014 15:40:00 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [98.138.100.102] by nm11.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 25 Sep 2014 21:42:59 -0000 Received: from [98.138.89.244] by tm101.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 25 Sep 2014 21:42:59 -0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] by omp1058.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 25 Sep 2014 21:42:59 -0000 Received: (qmail 5695 invoked by uid 60001); 25 Sep 2014 21:42:59 -0000 s=s1024; t=1411681379; bh=G2ZyUAHG4kQL49WpJ7HVp3M05ztFbdMZvlxFKbum7yo=; h=References:Message-ID:Date:From:Reply-To:Subject:To:In-Reply-To:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=Zwy3+YazfnxJLLp0iSOpL8jhpaGyJb4D7iTyhri58e/zq3Wx2uoisy8G17uLvjwWv3XykhJX3MTGyjjlosKWiNIRj6RRW2QqRxGyabYxKfTRE2kMKpTUm2f9W6V0S3cE5V1/FThokiK6NBBsqoqi7mgJApkODorP2Ti4EVFLz24= gfzqeFeTBxRzRXEOeqA4SAJM.rZY9cFvR8WmKfKomsWHtE6LH8.GFFakfRya X4Cso0bn4wAavtsB5fMcmHdIDp7I7UrvZb2Wxk31ziTfW5V0WAWpK3QvoMab rkOWaH4nmcsPfJqfcahCAAf6A4KCIuPXTQKCNzkuyHO8uT7qiWJhbC8DmXMg U5LfeKKsgf_JOzcVhpPoHMROd6.M__47M2NE4s_dNa3482mLkYJwEgU.0YZR zSKsQOGsNPvP3_ZUdRD9v1_Cf_ECOZqKUChOt90gkK6V8ABZCVWsBaQNVel1 2GUHgp07Z_MxFAqCFjCTm89VHUDxkdECwR3j2C7Rts.yighcdnkDw0fWbASX sM_eZ.yq8bdFmzkFzrSKPW4Fg6nZWCsw8vF5tJC7uYgKR_o_Q7FX57_gx6cK fvTkDpq7w1ycTHxYY2i.sPiDqTXWKZxCCewnB52GL8QB5nQmzI5lyWkmeVwp VFmFTEdGZlBBfHTrtQJ.Z7Opwtisms1KIJ.PsU08V9bJ2Y3HxycKXJvYuQ2k tfoQ9sb8k8OMKdb46WwsDbhfu0XY0ISX8B.VzP.tAHZRL Received: from [70.161.108.202] by web125501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com via HTTP; Thu, 25 Sep 2014 14:42:59 PDT SmFtZXMKCkF0IHRoZSBhbnkgcGFydHMgc3RvcmUgeW91IHNob3VsZCBiZSBhYmxlIHRvIGZpbmQgYSB2YWN1dW0gZ2F1Z2UuIFNvbWUgaGF2ZSBiaWcgZGlhbHMsIDMiLCB0aGF0IGFyZSBib3RoIGEgdmFjdXVtIGdhdWdlIGFuZCB1c2VkIGZvciBmdWVsIHByZXNzdXJlLiBPbiB0aGUgVFI2LCBJIGhhdmUgYSA3NC4gdGhlIGJhY2sgc2lkZSBvZiB0aGUgbWFuaWZvbGQgaGFzIGEgcXVhcnRlciBzaXplIGJhbmpvIHdpdGggYSBsYXJnZSBwb3J0IG9uIGNvbWluZyBvZmYgdG93YXJkcyB0aGUgYmFjayBvZiB0aGUBMAEBAQE- References: Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 14:42:59 -0700 From: Dale To: James_ , 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Checking vacuum pressure Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net James At the any parts store you should be able to find a vacuum gauge. Some have big dials, 3", that are both a vacuum gauge and used for fuel pressure. On the TR6, I have a 74. the back side of the manifold has a quarter size banjo with a large port on coming off towards the back of the engine and a smaller one towards the front. Fine out first what your reading is first. 18 to 20 is a good range. Dale ________________________________ From: James_ To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 8:58 PM Subject: [6pack] Checking vacuum pressure I have read several things about check for vacuum pressure. I am clueless. I think I buy a vacuum gauge (somewhere) and connect to the intake manifold? Maybe with a T connector so the original hose is connected. I am not talking about syncing the carbs. Anyone have experience and point me to buying a proper gauge and how to connect it? I have a bleeder gauge with a trigger but I suspect this isn't what I need to use. Thanks. bSent from my Atari 2600b Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 26 08:23:52 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 043E82584500 for ; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 08:23:52 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from fed1rmfepo201.cox.net (fed1rmfepo201.cox.net [68.230.241.146]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 339502580AF2 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 08:23:44 -0600 (MDT) Received: from fed1rmimpo306 ([68.230.241.174]) by fed1rmfepo201.cox.net (InterMail vM.8.01.05.15 201-2260-151-145-20131218) with ESMTP id <20140926142643.YBQW8823.fed1rmfepo201.cox.net@fed1rmimpo306> for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 10:26:43 -0400 Received: from fed1rmwbtp07 ([172.18.140.217]) by fed1rmimpo306 with cox id vqSi1o00Z4hdPEs01qSiAm; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 10:26:42 -0400 a=GosS7KckxS8soaxZ0YvhOg==:17 a=cWQ9uGxeeyIA:10 a=G8Uczd0VNMoA:10 a=gOmRjPhJuKAA:10 a=IkcTkHD0fZMA:10 a=kviXuzpPAAAA:8 a=1MBf0P314rQuqVnqwEwA:9 a=QEXdDO2ut3YA:10 a=qjiA5WLF84oA:10 a=70djzyixfEUA:10 a=GosS7KckxS8soaxZ0YvhOg==:117 Authentication-Results: cox.net; none Received: from [98.160.236.244] by webtop.west.cox.net with HTTP; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 14:26:42 +0000 Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 14:26:42 +0000 (GMT) From: wcwellbaum@cox.net To: 6pack@autox.team.net User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3 Subject: [6pack] oil pressure light Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Intresting issue: changed oil and filter. Oil pressure gauge registers good pressure as usual but the amber oil pressure light glows. What could be the cause. Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 26 09:14:59 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id D80E0258459C for ; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 09:14:59 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from dnvrco-oedge-vip.email.rr.com (dnvrco-outbound-snat.email.rr.com [107.14.73.232]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id A0E1E258071F for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 09:14:53 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [67.246.76.33] ([67.246.76.33:54647] helo=[192.168.1.100]) by dnvrco-oedge03 (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 3.5.0.35861 r(Momo-dev:tip)) with ESMTP id E1/C9-06155-F9385245; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 15:17:52 +0000 Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 11:17:57 -0400 From: Bob Labuz User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/31.1.1 To: wcwellbaum@cox.net, 6pack@autox.team.net References: <121020d.124c.148b25b5465.Webtop.0@cox.net> a=TGdWY25KQovz78N+ylr7Fw==:117 a=TGdWY25KQovz78N+ylr7Fw==:17 a=ayC55rCoAAAA:8 a=dZRF51mswLUA:10 a=uYRmwVSfly8A:10 a=N659UExz7-8A:10 a=f8qcBMrUAAAA:8 a=kviXuzpPAAAA:8 a=5RSZADZPGOcAbZgDvi0A:9 a=pILNOxqGKmIA:10 a=4vB-4DCPJfMA:10 a=ApDSOr-_TbkA:10 a=tSzb58AMeoAA:10 Subject: Re: [6pack] oil pressure light Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Bill, I am guessing either a bad sensor or a bad electrical at the sensor connection. The sensors have been know to just go and leak oil like crazy. I carry a spare in my trunk JIC. What year? Bob On 09/26/2014 10:26 AM, wcwellbaum@cox.net wrote: > Intresting issue: changed oil and filter. Oil pressure gauge > registers good pressure as usual but the amber oil pressure light > glows. What could be the cause. > > Bill Wellbaum > Las Vegas _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 26 09:21:45 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 5AF8025844C1 for ; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 09:21:45 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC4S34.hotmail.com (blu004-omc4s34.hotmail.com [65.55.111.173]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 5F1B32584454 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 09:21:41 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU406-EAS381 ([65.55.111.137]) by BLU004-OMC4S34.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Fri, 26 Sep 2014 08:24:40 -0700 References: <121020d.124c.148b25b5465.Webtop.0@cox.net> From: James_ Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 08:22:08 -0700 To: "wcwellbaum@cox.net" FILETIME=[FD981890:01CFD99D] Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] oil pressure light Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Maybe the oil pressure switch. Did any wires come disconnected? There is also an oil pressure relief valve with a spring inside. Maybe that is exhausted (nice way to say old) bSent from my Atari 2600b > On Sep 26, 2014, at 7:27 AM, wcwellbaum@cox.net wrote: > > Intresting issue: changed oil and filter. Oil pressure gauge registers good pressure as usual but the amber oil pressure light glows. What could be the cause. > > Bill Wellbaum > Las Vegas > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jattr6@hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 26 09:46:33 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6020025845ED for ; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 09:46:33 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from fed1rmfepo103.cox.net (fed1rmfepo103.cox.net [68.230.241.145]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6E4DF25844C1 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 09:45:59 -0600 (MDT) Received: from fed1rmimpo110 ([68.230.241.159]) by fed1rmfepo103.cox.net (InterMail vM.8.01.05.15 201-2260-151-145-20131218) with ESMTP id <20140926154858.UMKM32389.fed1rmfepo103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo110> for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 11:48:58 -0400 Received: from fed1rmwbtp06 ([172.18.140.217]) by fed1rmimpo110 with cox id vroy1o0034hdPEs01roysm; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 11:48:58 -0400 a=GosS7KckxS8soaxZ0YvhOg==:17 a=cWQ9uGxeeyIA:10 a=G8Uczd0VNMoA:10 a=gOmRjPhJuKAA:10 a=IkcTkHD0fZMA:10 a=kviXuzpPAAAA:8 a=zOoktvdPAAAA:8 a=69EAbJreAAAA:8 a=_HfL7YuINFRjp9a4vekA:9 a=QEXdDO2ut3YA:10 a=J0aUVQLP0FIA:10 a=m3MdUl94G8cA:10 a=Q94xJtFWm3wA:10 a=4vB-4DCPJfMA:10 a=EfJqPEOeqlMA:10 a=GosS7KckxS8soaxZ0YvhOg==:117 Authentication-Results: cox.net; none Received: from [98.160.236.244] by webtop.west.cox.net with HTTP; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 15:48:58 +0000 Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 15:48:58 +0000 (GMT) From: wcwellbaum@cox.net To: jattr6@hotmail.com User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3 Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] oil pressure light Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Disconnected the 3 wires at the pressure switch to make it easier to get the filter cannister out. Could it be they are not hooked back up in the proper way. Does it make a difference which of the three wires goes to the three connectors? If so, how do I determine the proper order? On Fri, Sep 26, 2014 at 8:22 AM, James_ wrote: > Maybe the oil pressure switch. Did any wires come disconnected? > There is also an oil pressure relief valve with a spring inside. Maybe > that is exhausted (nice way to say old) > > bSent from my Atari 2600b > >> On Sep 26, 2014, at 7:27 AM, wcwellbaum@cox.net wrote: >> >> Intresting issue: changed oil and filter. Oil pressure gauge >> registers good pressure as usual but the amber oil pressure light >> glows. What could be the cause. >> >> Bill Wellbaum >> Las Vegas >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> 6pack@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jattr6@hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 26 10:11:34 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B62772584565 for ; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 10:11:34 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from resqmta-po-09v.sys.comcast.net (resqmta-po-09v.sys.comcast.net [96.114.154.168]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0DAA425844D2 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 10:11:12 -0600 (MDT) Received: from resomta-po-01v.sys.comcast.net ([96.114.154.225]) by resqmta-po-09v.sys.comcast.net with comcast id vsDy1o0044s37d401sEB0B; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 16:14:11 +0000 Received: from Robert ([71.203.126.78]) by resomta-po-01v.sys.comcast.net with comcast id vsE91o00P1hcuZj01sEA3M; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 16:14:11 +0000 From: "Robert" To: , References: <1d55b85.7c2.148b2a6a24f.Webtop.0@cox.net> Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 12:14:09 -0400 Thread-Index: AQIRXYPHoOjxQdJKUcM0fOpvCETGrpuQjkWA Content-Language: en-us s=q20140121; t=1411748051; bh=TIBW6MPoRbd26ntTYBI/o43Ad7WR632wx/jVT0HEM+M=; h=Received:Received:From:To:Subject:Date:Message-ID:MIME-Version: Content-Type; b=VGmJpPUbd6Li1XfPEicNmJka/drZdHbBvuVC8xplfxMtyGiVzGQXNzYpOaJiiDe4a +cBHh463wzynMOuT17nXPTW5FcKNOc8Z3tVifViOiiHA9SL7kjQVg6M0a/mImIjD6t DgSegJRTXiK4Gfg67+JfGaSVJSTKK4Qc0nBGx2WSoVnB+UT1qkOlrmnI3QE5dwDnzB RJ5NMA8i9YGt7foGsJvNq3ugBb+0TVzxIlUEATj8tMjgK7Z6UbXYWSVq/5n65Vj3f4 hwB8Tk6y7+za2tRwfFEAw4WUSG/9IaRlLZkpbAPeFXBDkvlt6F4mQBUjSwkv+1W3EG QpCU0tTU+b+VA== Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] oil pressure light Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net "Snip" Disconnected the 3 wires at the pressure switch to make it easier to get the filter cannister out. Could it be they are not hooked back up in the proper way. Does it make a difference which of the three wires goes to the three connectors? If so, how do I determine the proper order? "Snip" 27 different configurations until the light goes out! _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 26 10:20:51 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6237D25845E8 for ; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 10:20:51 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mta21.charter.net (mta21.charter.net [216.33.127.81]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 3860B25844D2 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 10:19:15 -0600 (MDT) Received: from imp09 ([10.20.200.9]) by mta21.charter.net (InterMail vM.8.01.05.09 201-2260-151-124-20120717) with ESMTP id <20140926162214.KTUS11461.mta21.charter.net@imp09>; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 12:22:14 -0400 Received: from mtaout006.msg.strl.va.charter.net ([68.114.190.31]) by imp09 with smtp.charter.net id vsNE1o0040h5dSU05sNEdS; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 12:22:14 -0400 Received: from impout001 ([68.114.189.16]) by mtaout006.msg.strl.va.charter.net (InterMail vM.9.00.013.00 201-2473-140) with ESMTP id <20140926162214.KDZG12712.mtaout006.msg.strl.va.charter.net@impout001>; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 11:22:14 -0500 Received: from UserPC ([68.191.49.60]) by impout001 with charter.net id vsNE1o0011HvRt801sNEzt; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 11:22:14 -0500 a=0XvWQ/Ro/I08oZQvByVktA==:117 a=0XvWQ/Ro/I08oZQvByVktA==:17 a=hOpmn2quAAAA:8 a=yUnIBFQkZM0A:10 a=kj9zAlcOel0A:10 a=bFGN1JUKAAAA:8 a=zOoktvdPAAAA:8 a=kviXuzpPAAAA:8 a=69EAbJreAAAA:8 a=_HRAvAd3H7xRg_R8t28A:9 a=CjuIK1q_8ugA:10 a=J0aUVQLP0FIA:10 a=m3MdUl94G8cA:10 a=Q94xJtFWm3wA:10 a=4vB-4DCPJfMA:10 a=EfJqPEOeqlMA:10 a=hUswqBWy9Q8A:10 From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" To: , References: <1d55b85.7c2.148b2a6a24f.Webtop.0@cox.net> Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 12:22:14 -0400 Thread-Index: AQIRXYPHoOjxQdJKUcM0fOpvCETGrpuQkFZg Content-Language: en-us Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] oil pressure light Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net The three-wire pressure switch also operates the anti-run-on valve. Take a look at the proper diagram at the following link. http://www.advanceautowire.com/ Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: 6pack [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wcwellbaum@cox.net Sent: Friday, September 26, 2014 11:49 AM To: jattr6@hotmail.com Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] oil pressure light Disconnected the 3 wires at the pressure switch to make it easier to get the filter cannister out. Could it be they are not hooked back up in the proper way. Does it make a difference which of the three wires goes to the three connectors? If so, how do I determine the proper order? On Fri, Sep 26, 2014 at 8:22 AM, James_ wrote: > Maybe the oil pressure switch. Did any wires come disconnected? > There is also an oil pressure relief valve with a spring inside. Maybe > that is exhausted (nice way to say old) > > bSent from my Atari 2600b > >> On Sep 26, 2014, at 7:27 AM, wcwellbaum@cox.net wrote: >> >> Intresting issue: changed oil and filter. Oil pressure gauge >> registers good pressure as usual but the amber oil pressure light >> glows. What could be the cause. >> >> Bill Wellbaum >> Las Vegas >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> 6pack@autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jattr6@hotmail.com $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson@charter.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Sep 26 12:36:11 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 96005258486D for ; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 12:36:11 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net [167.206.4.198]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 3766A2580984 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 12:34:21 -0600 (MDT) Received: from vwm18.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (vwm18.srv.hcvlny.cv.net [167.206.10.48]) by mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (Sun Java System Messaging Server 6.2-8.04 (built Feb 28 2007)) with ESMTPA id <0NCI00JXXUE8TJD0@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> for 6pack@autox.team.net; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 14:37:20 -0400 (EDT) Received: from [69.126.235.217] by webtop.webmail.optimum.net with HTTP; Fri, 26 Sep 2014 14:37:20 -0400 Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 14:37:20 -0400 (EDT) From: Bob Peglow To: wcwellbaum@cox.net References: <1d55b85.7c2.148b2a6a24f.Webtop.0@cox.net> User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3 Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] oil pressure light Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Hello Bill, It looks like all TR6s with 3 wire oil switch are the same. Switch terminal wiring as follows: P = ground S = white/brown I = white/purple. Regards, Bob On Fri, Sep 26, 2014 at 11:48 AM, wcwellbaum@cox.net wrote: > Disconnected the 3 wires at the pressure switch to make it easier to > get > the filter cannister out. Could it be they are not hooked back up in > the proper way. Does it make a difference which of the three wires > goes > to the three connectors? If so, how do I determine the proper order? > > > On Fri, Sep 26, 2014 at 8:22 AM, James_ wrote: > >> Maybe the oil pressure switch. Did any wires come disconnected? >> There is also an oil pressure relief valve with a spring inside. >> Maybe >> that is exhausted (nice way to say old) >> >> bSent from my Atari 2600b >> >>> On Sep 26, 2014, at 7:27 AM, wcwellbaum@cox.net wrote: >>> >>> Intresting issue: changed oil and filter. Oil pressure gauge >>> registers good pressure as usual but the amber oil pressure light >>> glows. What could be the cause. >>> >>> Bill Wellbaum >>> Las Vegas >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> 6pack@autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jattr6@hotmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack@autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow@optonline.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 27 14:48:54 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6D73B2584A23 for ; Sat, 27 Sep 2014 14:48:54 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC4S5.hotmail.com (blu004-omc4s5.hotmail.com [65.55.111.144]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id CF33C2580BA2 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Sat, 27 Sep 2014 14:48:15 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU406-EAS415 ([65.55.111.137]) by BLU004-OMC4S5.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Sat, 27 Sep 2014 13:51:16 -0700 From: James_ Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 13:51:03 -0700 To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> FILETIME=[C8099580:01CFDA94] Subject: [6pack] Eyeball vents Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Anyone know if 1972 jaguar xj6 eyeball vents are the same size as TR6 eyeball vents? Found some excellent ones at a junkyard and would be a same if they were discarded. Of course I forgot my measuring tape but could borrow one in sure. Thanks. bSent from my Atari 2600b _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Sep 27 18:55:05 2014 Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C376B2580BB7 for ; Sat, 27 Sep 2014 18:55:05 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC4S28.hotmail.com (blu004-omc4s28.hotmail.com [65.55.111.167]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 46E4A2580934 for <6pack@autox.team.net>; Sat, 27 Sep 2014 18:54:32 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU406-EAS20 ([65.55.111.135]) by BLU004-OMC4S28.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22724); Sat, 27 Sep 2014 17:57:32 -0700 From: James_ Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 17:57:27 -0700 To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> FILETIME=[2F645A90:01CFDAB7] Subject: [6pack] Scored 6 NLA items for my TR6 from a jaguar! Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net So I just scored 6 no longer available items for my tr6 from a 72 jaguar! We all know TR6 are rarely in auto wrecking yards. But jags are there. A lot of them. And so many years of jags use exact TR6 parts! Here is a list: Carb coupling linkage. Ok, years ago-NLA. Now those are available from TRF (ZEO20059) and Moss, but costs $44.80. 370-517 (moss) I got it for $2.99!!! Do the math. Why would anyone needs these? Well, if you over tighten the screws the thin and fragile metal will crack and not grip the throttle rods well. Yup. I have muscles and did that on my recent carb tune up. I also got a seat belt sensor (the plastic disk) a warning buzzer. Fasten seatbelts dash warning (very NLA for 20 plus years) An original rheostat! And original brake pedal switch (made new but is after market and not sure what it costs) some my know this but the brake switch from a BMW is awesome! Made of metal. Not plastic. They rarely wear out but mine did break for some reason years ago. And a couple trim items. Like the seatbelt anchor bolt cover. It is plastic and the clips break if not careful when redoing the upholstery. Nope. I didn't break mine but good to have a spare. (I forgot to grab the passenger one though) Many treasures off a jaguar. Go forth and rescue these parts my friends! I can give more details about rescuing things like the warning buzzer. It is a pain on the 72 unless you know a secret. Took me two cut knuckles to figure it out. Also, TR6's use different buzzers depending on the year. But so do jags! I have a stock pile of buzzers now. Cheers. James bSent from my Atari 2600b _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 6pack@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack