Brian
As I understand it the VSCDA overreacted to some inappropriate uses of nyloc
nuts. Their proposed global ban has been withdrawn. Back to "Screw to Win".
Derek
Brian Evans wrote:
> Bear with me if I've got this wrong in some of the details, but I seem to
> recall getting a newsletter from (I think) VSCDA - the group who run the
> Gratton race, in any case - that mentioned something about not allowing
> Nylock nuts on any suspension component. Since my car uses Nylock style
> nuts virtually every where, on the advice garnered from the Smith "Screw to
> Win" book, I thought I'd ask for clarification and recommendations. I can
> get metal deforming lock nuts locally, but they tend to deform the end
> threads on whatever they are bolted on to, and some of these threads are on
> the actual part, not a bolt that could be easily replaced. The vast
> majority of the applications in the suspension see no heat buildup
> what-so-ever - they hold suspension links to the chassis or the uprights,
> and so on, so I don't see the problem. The note, as I recall, discussed
> using castle nuts and cotter pins, which I do for the nuts that hold the
> bearing hub on the axle, where you will see some heat, but I can't see
> drilling all of the 5/16", and smaller bolts that hold my sway bars on to
> accept cotter pins, and I have no idea where to get all of the castle
> nuts! I've looked into getting jet nuts, but they seem a tad OTT to
> me. The replacement ball joints that you get these days use nylock nuts as
> stock in most cases - only the really old stock still have castle nuts.
>
> Any thoughts, anyone?
>
> Cheers, Brian
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