In a message dated 01-08-11 01:35:15 EDT, you write:
<< I was told that there is a "Magic Clutch" used on the TR6 motor for the
2500M.
It is made up of components from a Toyota and Saab.
Anyone heard about this ?
What component is from what car ?
Thanks, Pat >>
Some stuff on clutches I've collected over the last couple of years:
TR6 CLUTCHES
I have noted a current thread regarding clutch problems on Triumph TR6
models. These have been
a long-term problem, and we at The Roadster Factory have taken some steps to
solve them.
Originally, TR6's were made with either Laycock or Borg and Beck clutches.
The Laycock was the
best in our opinion, and we rarely had problems with Laycock clutches.
Regrettably, it has been a
number of years since Laycock was sold and the original clutch discontinued.
Quinton-Hazell tried
making TR6 clutches, but there were constant problems, and eventually
Quinton-Hazell discontinued
TR6 clutches, although all of their other clutches seem to be o.k. We at TRF
have had variable
success with Borg and Beck. Often they work perfectly. Sometimes, the system
seems to be in
perfect condition, but the gearbox grinds from day one.
When working with TR6 clutch systems, there are a number of precautions.
First, make sure that
hydraulic components are working perfectly. Too little travel on the slave
cylinder push rod results
in grinding gears. Second, make sure there is not excessive crank shaft end
float in the engine. This
is a serious engine problem if it exists, but it will cause ineffectual
clutch disengagement. Thirdly,
make sure of the gearbox. Roughness or distortion can cause it to hang up.
Fourthly, make sure
there is little or no play in all linkage. Replace cross shaft bushes,
replace work cross shafts, replace
worn throw-out forks. Fit a new taper pin. The Roadster Factory has
developed a simple tool for
installing the throw-out bearing to the sleeve at home. This tool is
approved by the bearing
manufacturer, and it costs just $10.82 under part no. RFT 121.
You can do all of the above and still have your new clutch not work. For
this reason, we at The
Roadster Factory have developed a new clutch from advice received from Dean
Houston at British
Sportscar Center in Boca Raton, Florida and from J. K. Jackson in
Tallahassee. Our system
includes a pressure plate of European manufacture and a Japanese throw-out
bearing from a heavy-
duty application. In addition to the three-piece clutch, our system requires
replacement of various
linkage components. We called this new system an "experimental clutch" for
several years, but now
that we have sold several hundred without any problems, we call it a "magic
clutch." Everything is
described and listed in our new 1997 Triumph Summer Companion. If you didn't
receive this in the
mail, you can request a copy by mail, fax, telephone, or e-mail: The Roadster
Factory, P.O. Box
332, Armagh, PA 15920 FAX 814-446-6729 Phone 800-234-1104 e-mail
TRFmail@aol.com
Watch for our new web site at www.the-roadster-factory.com which is currently
under design, but
will be up over the next few weeks. Hope you are enjoying your cars with the
great summer
weather. Regards, Charles A. Runyan
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"Magic Clutch" Recipe and other fixes
Hi Folks, A few weeks ago, I put a message on the list asking for
recommendations for good
machine shops in the San Jose, CA area and asking if anyone knew the
specifics about the "Magic
Clutch" that TRF sells (since they are so circumspect about it and charge a
small fortune for it, along
with requiring you to completely replace all the parts internal to the
bellhousing if you want it
guaranteed). Anyway, I got some good messages steering me to good machine
shops, <thank you
!!> and some messages asking me to tell them if I found out the specifics RE:
the clutch. However,
no messages with anything specific about TRFs clutch kit. I found this
really strange - TR people
are usually inquisitive by nature so I thought somebody surely would have
taken the time to "reverse
engineer" the kit contents - especially since TRF readily admits that the
idea was not their own in the
first place, but instead came from two gentlemen in Florida. Not being
easily discouraged, and
having free lunch hours to make long distance calls and burn the internet
links, I decided to find out
the answer. What follows is the compiled data from my study - I do not have
any interests in any of
the companies listed below.
1. Clutch Release Bearing (or Throwout Bearing): The bearing to use is the
throwout bearing
for a 1975-1986 Toyota Landcruiser. This bearing has a
Beck-Arnley/Worldparts part number
of 062- 0898. Other part numbers it is listed under are "RCT52S", "RB-0203",
and "046", but you
can just ask for a 1975-86 Landcruiser Throwout bearing and you will get
the right part. It is a
larger OD than the stock TR-6 T/O bearing, but the ID is the same, so it
presses onto the stock
TR-6 carrier/sleeve. Shop around for the best price - I was quoted from a
low of $40 to a high of
$80 for the exact same bearing.
2. Clutch Pressure Plate: The Pressure Plate to use is the SACHS pressure
plate for a 1979-
1991 Saab 900 w/non-turbo 2 liter engine. This has a Sachs part number of
SC436, and a
Saab/Metrix Parts part number of 87-28-123. When you buy this make sure
you are getting a
Sachs part - Borg&Beck and Sachs were used interchangably on the 900
series and the Saab
part number does not distinguish between the two brands. If you get a
Borg&Beck you are
getting the same part that you (most likely) just took off your TR-6. The
best price I found was
from "The Parts Guy" (phone 800-874-1850 - P/N SC436, $49.95 + shipping).
3. Clutch Friction Disk: There is no Sachs friction disk for a TR - the
Saab has a different input
shaft. Use any brand you want - as long as its not Q-H ( Q-H will
probably work - they are just
really poor on quality control).
Additional hints I gathered:
1. Hone or machine an addition .010-.020 of clearance off the inner bore of
the throwout bearing
sleeve. Apparently at higher temperatures, it has a tendency to stick. Also
install it with some high-
temp grease.
2. Drill a 5/16" hole at a 90 degree angle to the retaining pin (offset from
the pin - you don't want to
drill through it) through the fork and rod, and install a grade 8 bolt and
nut as additional insurance
from the pin breaking.
Well that's it. Hope I didn't offend anybody - I was wondering if this info
was like a Masonic oath
or something. Many thanks to the folks at Beck-Arnley/Worldparts, Metrix
South, The Parts Guy,
Midway Industries (Centerforce Clutches), Sachs-Boge of America, Saab,
Toyota, Economy
Imports, Olympic Imports, Auto Parts Club, and several folks who wished to
remain anonymous - I
could not have done it without your help, parts books, knowledge, and
infinite patience.
Have at it !! Hugh Barber '73 TR-6 Santa Clara, CA
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