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If you use a washer, make sure it's hardened. If not it will wear and
your flywheel will get loose. Not good.
Cheers, Tony Drews
On 2/12/2025 4:41 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> Gerald
> thank you for your comment #1.
> and to those who have seen my last 2 responses, the interference is a
> Gerald remained me.
> i did not grind the flywheel bolts, i just added a washer under the head.
> the memory is fickle thing eh?
>
> Frank
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 12, 2025 at 08:40:45 AM PST, Gerald Van Vlack
> <jerryvvtr4a@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'm following this rear seal thread and need to comment. The newest
> seal design works well with a few items that need followed in
> conjunction with it's install.
>
> 1.
> Be certain that the flywheel bolts do not cut into the installed
> seal. If using the ARP bolts they need to be shortened a small
> amount by grinding the ends slightly. I don't know if the stock
> bolts need the same modification but worth inspecting to be sure.
> 2.
> The best seal will be blamed for a leak when in fact it's not the
> source of the leak. When installing the rear main bearing cap very
> careful attention needs to be paid to sealing the cap to the
> block. That large rectangular slot that requires a rope seal
> pounded into it if not sealed well enough will leak and frequently
> is the source of oil being seen dripping from the hole in the
> bellhousing. And then folks blame the rear main seal when in fact
> it's that interface between the block and cap that is the source
> of the leak.
>
> My comment is don't blame the crank seal in many cases.
>
> JVV
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Dave
> MacKay <dave@mdmackay.ca>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 12, 2025 10:39 AM
> *To:* triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [TR] Leaking rear seal on my TR3A's engine
> I followed the recent exchange about â??TR Rear Crank Seal Rope?â?? with
> interest and corresponded with all who replied to the OP. That has me
> thinking about how I might address my situation.
>
> In 2008, the engine in my TR3A was rebuilt. As part of that effort an OIL
> SEAL CONVERSION KIT was fitted. The conversion required that the scroll on
> the crankshaft be ground down. It has always leaked.
>
> I had convinced myself that fixing the leak would be too much trouble and
> too expensive to be worth doing. I envisioned having to replace the
> crankshaft and then using a more modern conversion (Moss 837-160). I
> wanted to check with the list to see if thatâ??s the case or not.
>
> I believe --- but am not certain --- that the conversion was sourced from
> Moss (perhaps p/n 837-006). I am aware that incorrect instructions were
> provided with some of the conversion kits so that the crankshafts were
> ground too small. I donâ??t know if thatâ??s the case with my conversion: the
> crank may have been ground to the correct dimensions, or it might not have
> been.
>
> I have three questions:
>
> 1) Is there a way to check the crankshaft dimensions to see what it has
> been ground to that doesnâ??t require pulling the engine? Iâ??d like to know
> if the crank had to ground to the correct dimensions or not.
>
> 2) If the crankshaft was ground to the wrong dimensions, is there a way to
> fix it (e.g., special seal) short of replacing the crankshaft? Replacement
> crankshafts are scarce and quite expensive (>USD$1600).
>
> 3) If the crankshaft was ground to the correct dimensions, what have
> others done to keep that oil seal conversion from leaking?
>
> Iâ??d welcome any input from those on this list.
>
> Dave MacKay
> 1960 Triumph TR3A, s/n 68639L
> near Toronto, Canada
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
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>
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>
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<p>If you use a washer, make sure it's hardened. If not it will
wear and your flywheel will get loose. Not good.</p>
<p>Cheers, Tony Drews<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/12/2025 4:41 PM, Frank Fisher
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:2125694361.73771.1739400079395@mail.yahoo.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div class="ydpc0068be8yahoo-style-wrap"
style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial,
sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Gerald </div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">thank you for your comment
#1.</div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">and to those who have seen my
last 2 responses, the interference is a Gerald remained me.</div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">i did not grind the flywheel
bolts, i just added a washer under the head.</div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">the memory is fickle thing
eh?</div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Frank</div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<div id="ydpcd329a03yahoo_quoted_0376345569"
class="ydpcd329a03yahoo_quoted">
<div
style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial,
sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
<div> On Wednesday, February 12, 2025 at 08:40:45 AM PST,
Gerald Van Vlack <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:jerryvvtr4a@gmail.com";><jerryvvtr4a@gmail.com></a> wrote:
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>
<div id="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294">
<div dir="ltr">
<div
style="font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica,
sans-serif;font-size:11pt;color:rgb(0, 0, 0);"
class="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294elementToProof">
I'm following this rear seal thread and need to
comment. The newest seal design works well with a few
items that need followed in conjunction with it's
install.</div>
<div
style="font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica,
sans-serif;font-size:11pt;color:rgb(0, 0, 0);"
class="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294elementToProof">
<br clear="none">
</div>
<ol start="1" style="list-style-type:decimal;">
<li
style="font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica,
sans-serif;font-size:11pt;color:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<div class="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294elementToProof">Be
certain that the flywheel bolts do not cut into
the installed seal. If using the ARP bolts they
need to be shortened a small amount by grinding
the ends slightly. I don't know if the stock bolts
need the same modification but worth inspecting to
be sure.</div>
</li>
<li
style="font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica,
sans-serif;font-size:11pt;color:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<div class="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294elementToProof">The
best seal will be blamed for a leak when in fact
it's not the source of the leak. When installing
the rear main bearing cap very careful attention
needs to be paid to sealing the cap to the block.
That large rectangular slot that requires a rope
seal pounded into it if not sealed well enough
will leak and frequently is the source of oil
being seen dripping from the hole in the
bellhousing. And then folks blame the rear main
seal when in fact it's that interface between the
block and cap that is the source of the leak.</div>
</li>
</ol>
<div
style="font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica,
sans-serif;font-size:11pt;color:rgb(0, 0, 0);"
class="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294elementToProof">
My comment is don't blame the crank seal in many
cases.</div>
<div
style="font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica,
sans-serif;font-size:11pt;color:rgb(0, 0, 0);"
class="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294elementToProof">
<br clear="none">
</div>
<div
style="font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica,
sans-serif;font-size:11pt;color:rgb(0, 0, 0);"
class="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294elementToProof">
JVV</div>
<div
style="font-family:Aptos, Calibri, Helvetica,
sans-serif;font-size:11pt;color:rgb(0,0,0);">
<br clear="none">
</div>
<hr tabindex="-1"
style="display:inline-block;width:98%;">
<div id="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294yqtfd04841"
class="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294yqt4175319239">
<div dir="ltr"
id="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294divRplyFwdMsg"><font
face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"
style="font-size:11pt;"><b>From:</b> Triumphs
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net";><triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net></a>
on behalf
of Dave MacKay <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:dave@mdmackay.ca";><dave@mdmackay.ca></a><br
clear="none">
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, February 12, 2025 10:39 AM<br
clear="none">
<b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";><triumphs@autox.team.net></a><br
clear="none">
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] Leaking rear seal on my
TR3A's engine</font>
<div>Â </div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294BodyFragment">
<div id="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294yqtfd92825"
class="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294yqt4175319239"><font
size="2"><span style="font-size:11pt;">
</span></font></div>
<div class="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294PlainText">
<div id="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294yqtfd48993"
class="ydpcd329a03yiv8250301294yqt4175319239">I
followed the recent exchange about â??TR Rear Crank
Seal Rope?â?? with<br clear="none">
interest and corresponded with all who replied to
the OP. That has me<br clear="none">
thinking about how I might address my situation.<br
clear="none">
<br clear="none">
In 2008, the engine in my TR3A was rebuilt. As
part of that effort an OIL<br clear="none">
SEAL CONVERSION KIT was fitted. The conversion
required that the scroll on<br clear="none">
the crankshaft be ground down. It has always
leaked.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
I had convinced myself that fixing the leak would
be too much trouble and<br clear="none">
too expensive to be worth doing. I envisioned
having to replace the<br clear="none">
crankshaft and then using a more modern conversion
(Moss 837-160). I<br clear="none">
wanted to check with the list to see if thatâ??s the
case or not.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
I believe --- but am not certain --- that the
conversion was sourced from<br clear="none">
Moss (perhaps p/n 837-006). I am aware that
incorrect instructions were<br clear="none">
provided with some of the conversion kits so that
the crankshafts were<br clear="none">
ground too small. I donâ??t know if thatâ??s the case
with my conversion: the<br clear="none">
crank may have been ground to the correct
dimensions, or it might not have<br clear="none">
been.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
I have three questions:<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
1) Is there a way to check the crankshaft
dimensions to see what it has<br clear="none">
been ground to that doesnâ??t require pulling the
engine? Iâ??d like to know<br clear="none">
if the crank had to ground to the correct
dimensions or not.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
2) If the crankshaft was ground to the wrong
dimensions, is there a way to<br clear="none">
fix it (e.g., special seal) short of replacing the
crankshaft? Replacement<br clear="none">
crankshafts are scarce and quite expensive
(>USD$1600).<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
3) If the crankshaft was ground to the correct
dimensions, what have<br clear="none">
others done to keep that oil seal conversion from
leaking?<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Iâ??d welcome any input from those on this list.<br
clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Dave MacKay<br clear="none">
1960 Triumph TR3A, s/n 68639L<br clear="none">
near Toronto, Canada<br clear="none">
** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
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