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Frank,
FWIW, I =E2=80=9Crolled my own=E2=80=9D using parts from the electronics ju=
nk bin. Heart is a 741 style op amp IC, which drives a power MOSFET, which=
in turns drives a cheap auto relay. Probably could have left out the rela=
y, but I used it anyway. The other key piece turned out to be using a volt=
age regulator IC to feed the whole thing (except the relay contacts). With=
out the VR, the kickback from the fan motor would cause the relay to chatte=
r under some conditions. (Since the unit was already installed when I figu=
red that out, I just tapped into the VR that also supplies my TR4 temp gaug=
e).
For the sensor, I used an old GM (I think it was) gauge sender, which screw=
s into the opening in the back of the water pump housing where the heater r=
eturn goes (on cars with heaters). Although I didn=E2=80=99t try it, I bel=
ieve you could put a tee piece there and still hook up the heater return if=
you wanted to.
That=E2=80=99s probably not much help. If I didn=E2=80=99t want to build o=
ne, I=E2=80=99d probably still be using the DeRale electronic controller, w=
ith a probe that just pushes into the radiator fins (like the one you linke=
d to). I ran one on a Stag for almost a year, but converted back to a mech=
anical fan as the electric pusher seemed to block air flow at freeway speed=
s.
https://www.amazon.com/Derale-16759-Adjustable-Fan-Controller/dp/B000CN4XZI=
/ref=3Dpd_cp_263_2
Hayden offers a similar unit as well, which I=E2=80=99ll bet would also be =
more reliable and longer lived than your =E2=80=9Ceconomy=E2=80=9D ebay fin=
d.
- Randall
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--></style></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><di=
v class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Frank,</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=
<o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>FWIW, I =E2=80=9Crolled my own=E2=
=80=9D using parts from the electronics junk bin.=C2=A0 Heart is a 741 styl=
e op amp IC, which drives a power MOSFET, which in turns drives a cheap aut=
o relay.=C2=A0 Probably could have left out the relay, but I used it anyway=
.=C2=A0 The other key piece turned out to be using a voltage regulator IC t=
o feed the whole thing (except the relay contacts).=C2=A0 Without the VR, t=
he kickback from the fan motor would cause the relay to chatter under some =
conditions.=C2=A0 (Since the unit was already installed when I figured that=
out, I just tapped into the VR that also supplies my TR4 temp gauge).</p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>For the senso=
r, I used an old GM (I think it was) gauge sender, which screws into the op=
ening in the back of the water pump housing where the heater return goes (o=
n cars with heaters).=C2=A0 Although I didn=E2=80=99t try it, I believe you=
could put a tee piece there and still hook up the heater return if you wan=
ted to.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>T=
hat=E2=80=99s probably not much help.=C2=A0 If I didn=E2=80=99t want to bui=
ld one, I=E2=80=99d probably still be using the DeRale electronic controlle=
r, with a probe that just pushes into the radiator fins (like the one you l=
inked to).=C2=A0 I ran one on a Stag for almost a year, but converted back =
to a mechanical fan as the electric pusher seemed to block air flow at free=
way speeds.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Deral=
e-16759-Adjustable-Fan-Controller/dp/B000CN4XZI/ref=3Dpd_cp_263_2">https://=
www.amazon.com/Derale-16759-Adjustable-Fan-Controller/dp/B000CN4XZI/ref=3Dp=
d_cp_263_2</a></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoN=
ormal>Hayden offers a similar unit as well, which I=E2=80=99ll bet would al=
so be more reliable and longer lived than your =E2=80=9Ceconomy=E2=80=9D eb=
ay find.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=
- Randall</p></div></body></html>=
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